Stus-List Drive Handle

[Paul via CnC-List]

OK, so a lesson learned.  Don't assume a temporary fix is good forever.  A
few years back when I picked up the boat, the portside lever for the F/R
shifting was missing.  I figured I'd eventually find it in the boat but
never did.  In the meantime, I cut the head off a bolt, slid it in the
shifter and of course needing more leverage slid the manual bilge pump
handle overtop to extend for the needed leverage.  It actually fit well on
all accounts.  This past weekend, coming into the marina with some friends,
I was on deck halfway forward when my friend was helming into the marina and
as he was pulling up to pull out of gear, the darn bolt came out.  I guess
he pulled slightly out while pulling up.  None the less, I told him to put
it back in and sure enough, he pushed it back and slide the bolt into the
bilge pump handle...far enough that it wouldn't work. Being snug, it
wouldn't come back out.  Now in gear, going slightly too fast and running
through the marina, I started running...also thinking I should get that
fixed.  I got it sorted out but figured I better get the proper handle.
Anyone know what it looks like or where I can get one.  The pedestal side of
the assembly has some sort of a spring which appears to pressure the proper
male end fitting once slide in.  It will likely be shorter too than what I'm
using which will mean looking at the gear box as it is very stiff to get
in/out gear (cable runs smooth) but that's another issue altogether.

Paul Hood
1981 C Georgian Bay


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Re: Stus-List problem getting the raw water flowing

[ahycrace via CnC-List]

I once replaced the impeller on my yanmar 3gm30 and when I put the plate back 
on the pump it was not seated properly and the pump kept losing its prime. With 
enough rpm s it would start pumping again only to lose its prime again on start 
up. Might be worth checking. The plate must be air/water tight.
Gary KolcLiberty38' Mk 2


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy Tablet
 Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/30/18  4:43 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Josh Muckley  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List problem getting the raw water flowing 
I've had the tips of the impeller vanes wear off and combined with the set 
which the vanes had taken the pump was unable to generate enough force to both 
suck and blow unless I reved the engine.  This condition didn't cause any 
perceivable problems until I was attempting to winterize and the level in the 
jug just wouldn't go down.
If you haven't replaced the impeller lately.  Replace the impeller and get back 
to us.
Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+Solomons, MD


On Wed, May 30, 2018, 1:47 PM Eric Frank via CnC-List  
wrote:
 Never had trouble with this before, but this year I could not get the raw 
water going out the exhaust when I was getting ready for launching.  Always use 
a bucket of fresh water on the intake to the raw water pump (new impeller every 
year) just to make sure things are working.  Engine started fine but no water 
out the exhaust. Impeller was turning when I cranked the engine so thought the 
problem might be downstream of that. A mechanic at the yard reported back that 
things were fine and he just had to run the engine at a high RPM to get the raw 
water flowing.  Anyone else experience that? Does it suggest that the tubes 
where the raw water cools the engine water could be getting clogged? Advice 
appreciated.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA



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Re: Stus-List problem getting the raw water flowing

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the helpful input. As some suggested, the problem is almost 
certainly a clogged exhaust elbow.  Several years ago (7 or 8?) the same thing 
happened but as we were motoring slowly up to our mooring. The yard fixed it by 
replacing the exhaust elbow.  So it is clearly time to do that again. Thanks 
especially to Francois Rivard, who supplied a detailed description of the 
problem and its solution.  BTW, some asked what engine it is.  It’s a Perkins 
Perama M30, installed by the PO, probably around 1985. Showing its age in terms 
of surface rust, but still running fine. 
Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Stus-List problem getting the raw water flowing

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

We had the same problem a couple years ago, it was the elbow.

Many "Experts" told me not to waste time with the elbow on a freshwater
boat.  Wrong.

Duly following the "expert" advice I fixed / replaced everything else and
reamed all the tubes in the heat exchanger using wood dowels. It was not an
entirely bad exercise as some tubes were in fact clogged, the pump bearings
and "cam" were iffy (The cam is not a replaceable item), and the belt as
well as all the rubber hoses had seen better days.

But in the end elbow was completely sealed shut by deposits.

I did a lot of research on this here's the bottom line:

- If your elbow is rusted in place  / un-removable from the riser: Remove
and replace the riser too. The riser is easy to remove /  I got a brand new
one almost free as they are a common take-off item these days

- Elbows self-destruct in freshwater the same as saltwater. The deposits
are the real problem. Much like seawater, lake water is a soup loaded with
stuff in suspension that gets separated from the water because of the heat
and steam / the very shape of the elbow and gravity does the rest. No
matter what metal it's made out of.

-From all the research I've done stainless elbows get stuffed-up at the
same rate as cast iron units and the corrosion resistance is pretty much
immaterial as they clog-up  / need to be replaced as well.

- If the elbow would have been replaced sooner, my hoses would not have
been exposed to high pressure which caused leaks and their ultimate
somewhat premature demise. I think the same could be said about my pump.  I
was eating through impellers like they were dirty underwear because it had
to work that much harder to push water through a partially obstructed
elbow. The cam wear is probably related to that as well (Not 100% sure on
that)

- Checking the elbow yearly or every 2 years is a great idea.

- Once you get the hang of it, they're pretty easy to remove / replace,
even in my extremely cramped engine compartment.

My 2 cents.

Good luck on the project.

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
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Re: Stus-List problem Landfall38 autopilot help.

[John via CnC-List]

Fred 

Thank you very much. I am willing to try anything as long as it can be a safe 
installation and that it can talk to my Nima 2000. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 30, 2018, at 7:56 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi, John — unless your LF38 is significantly different from mine, there is 
> absolutely no room to add a proper tiller arm.  You either have to live with 
> an undersized wheel pilot (as the Simrad is no longer in production, and the 
> Raymarine is right on the edge for our boats’ displacement…); or you have to 
> strengthen the radial drive and attach the ram directly to that.  I know, 
> Chuck: that’s not recommended by Edson.  But there’s really no other choice; 
> and done correctly, it seems to work just fine.  The biggest issue is just 
> getting everything properly mounted in that #$%@# excuse for an engine space 
> in the LF38.  It takes a bit of cockpit locker space, but it appears to me 
> after much thought that a transverse mounting of the ram into the starboard 
> locker would be the best in terms of access for both installation and 
> maintenance.
> 
> I would also suggest that you take a look at the various hydraulic drives out 
> there (specifically Octopus and Simrad/Navico), as I believe they’ll last 
> much longer than the linear electromechanical drives from Raymarine.
> 
> And to Allan Hester, who asked about below-deck autopilots in a post last 
> weekend, sorry for the delay in replying; I was up trying to get the boat 
> ready for its much-delayed launch this coming Saturday.  Ask away, and I’ll 
> try to help.
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>> On May 30, 2018, at 4:17 PM, john wright via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> "Has any CC Landfall 38 owners installed an Edson tiller arm for linear 
>> autopilot drive application?  We are trying to install a B RAM1 Linear 
>> drive unit and don't have enough exposed rudder shaft to attached an 
>> independent Edson bronze tiller arm for linear drive connection.  We also 
>> interested if anyone has used the quadrant to attach the quick release pin.  
>> Its not recommended by Edson but figured someone would disregard the warning 
>> just to have a below deck autopilot"
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List problem Landfall38 autopilot help.

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Hi, John — unless your LF38 is significantly different from mine, there is 
absolutely no room to add a proper tiller arm.  You either have to live with an 
undersized wheel pilot (as the Simrad is no longer in production, and the 
Raymarine is right on the edge for our boats’ displacement…); or you have to 
strengthen the radial drive and attach the ram directly to that.  I know, 
Chuck: that’s not recommended by Edson.  But there’s really no other choice; 
and done correctly, it seems to work just fine.  The biggest issue is just 
getting everything properly mounted in that #$%@# excuse for an engine space in 
the LF38.  It takes a bit of cockpit locker space, but it appears to me after 
much thought that a transverse mounting of the ram into the starboard locker 
would be the best in terms of access for both installation and maintenance.

I would also suggest that you take a look at the various hydraulic drives out 
there (specifically Octopus and Simrad/Navico), as I believe they’ll last much 
longer than the linear electromechanical drives from Raymarine.

And to Allan Hester, who asked about below-deck autopilots in a post last 
weekend, sorry for the delay in replying; I was up trying to get the boat ready 
for its much-delayed launch this coming Saturday.  Ask away, and I’ll try to 
help.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On May 30, 2018, at 4:17 PM, john wright via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> "Has any CC Landfall 38 owners installed an Edson tiller arm for linear 
> autopilot drive application?  We are trying to install a B RAM1 Linear 
> drive unit and don't have enough exposed rudder shaft to attached an 
> independent Edson bronze tiller arm for linear drive connection.  We also 
> interested if anyone has used the quadrant to attach the quick release pin.  
> Its not recommended by Edson but figured someone would disregard the warning 
> just to have a below deck autopilot"
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Re: Stus-List problem getting the raw water flowing

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Eric;

 

You didn't say what engine you are working with.

 

If it is a Yanmar, the sudden onset of no water flow suggest that the
exhaust elbow is plugged with carbon. Particularly if you've not taken
action to remove the carbon buildup in the last 100-200 engine hours.

 

If you still have an A4, or the Westerbeke that was an option, I'd guess the
problem is most likely a worn or damaged impeller in the raw water pump.
"Sudden" onset of the problem seems to argue against that, but it is
possible that worn vanes might prevent the vanes from getting a good seal
and creating suction needed to fill the cooling system.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Eric
Frank via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2018 1:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Eric Frank 
Subject: Stus-List problem getting the raw water flowing

 

 Never had trouble with this before, but this year I could not get the raw
water going out the exhaust when I was getting ready for launching.  Always
use a bucket of fresh water on the intake to the raw water pump (new
impeller every year) just to make sure things are working.  Engine started
fine but no water out the exhaust. Impeller was turning when I cranked the
engine so thought the problem might be downstream of that. A mechanic at the
yard reported back that things were fine and he just had to run the engine
at a high RPM to get the raw water flowing.  Anyone else experience that?
Does it suggest that the tubes where the raw water cools the engine water
could be getting clogged? Advice appreciated.

 

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA 

 

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Re: Stus-List problem Landfall38 autopilot help.

[john wright via CnC-List]

"Has any CC Landfall 38 owners installed an Edson tiller arm for linear 
autopilot drive application?  We are trying to install a B RAM1 Linear drive 
unit and don't have enough exposed rudder shaft to attached an independent 
Edson bronze tiller arm for linear drive connection.  We also interested if 
anyone has used the quadrant to attach the quick release pin.  Its not 
recommended by Edson but figured someone would disregard the warning just to 
have a below deck autopilot"

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Re: Stus-List problem getting the raw water flowing

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I've had the tips of the impeller vanes wear off and combined with the set
which the vanes had taken the pump was unable to generate enough force to
both suck and blow unless I reved the engine.  This condition didn't cause
any perceivable problems until I was attempting to winterize and the level
in the jug just wouldn't go down.

If you haven't replaced the impeller lately.  Replace the impeller and get
back to us.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Wed, May 30, 2018, 1:47 PM Eric Frank via CnC-List 
wrote:

>  Never had trouble with this before, but this year I could not get the raw
> water going out the exhaust when I was getting ready for launching.  Always
> use a bucket of fresh water on the intake to the raw water pump (new
> impeller every year) just to make sure things are working.  Engine started
> fine but no water out the exhaust. Impeller was turning when I cranked the
> engine so thought the problem might be downstream of that. A mechanic at
> the yard reported back that things were fine and he just had to run the
> engine at a high RPM to get the raw water flowing.  Anyone else experience
> that? Does it suggest that the tubes where the raw water cools the engine
> water could be getting clogged? Advice appreciated.
>
> Eric Frank
> Cat's Paw
> C 35 Mk II
> Mattapoisett, MA
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List problem getting the raw water flowing

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Eric,

You didn't say what engine.

I've had a couple issues that might be helpful.

On launch a couple years ago, there was no raw water flow.  Fortunately my
slip was mere feet away and I got the boat docked.  On investigation, I
traced the problem to pluggage in the raw water inlet upstream of the
strainer.  I had to use dock water to blow it out the thru-hull.  Never did
see what it was.  Mud dauber nest?  Practical joker stuffing something up
the thru-hull while the boat was one the hard?  No clue.

The other issue is related primarily to Universal/Westerbekes that have a
zinc in the heat exchanger.  I had to pull the end caps and remove several
pieces of pencil zinc in the exchanger.  See:

https://marinehowto.com/westerbeke-universal-marine-heat-exchanger-cleaning/

The engine began to slowly overheat at higher rpm's.  Once I removed the
zinc pieces, the temperature returned to normal.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, May 30, 2018 at 12:46 PM, Eric Frank via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  Never had trouble with this before, but this year I could not get the raw
> water going out the exhaust when I was getting ready for launching.  Always
> use a bucket of fresh water on the intake to the raw water pump (new
> impeller every year) just to make sure things are working.  Engine started
> fine but no water out the exhaust. Impeller was turning when I cranked the
> engine so thought the problem might be downstream of that. A mechanic at
> the yard reported back that things were fine and he just had to run the
> engine at a high RPM to get the raw water flowing.  Anyone else experience
> that? Does it suggest that the tubes where the raw water cools the engine
> water could be getting clogged? Advice appreciated.
>
> Eric Frank
> Cat's Paw
> C 35 Mk II
> Mattapoisett, MA
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Wood Bulkheads...

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

David,

you can use some bleach to try and lighten them. if its spots, you just 
kind of wet it on the spot let it sit and then rinse thoroughly with a 
spray bottle and rags.



I used watco danish finish on my boat down below.  I used a palm sander, 
went over it once with 320 grit then again with 420 grit immediately 
following, the wood came back brighter, smooth and with a nice luster.  
You let that sit for about a week and then just add the watco wax as a 
protectant.  The idea with the watco is to get it to develop a slurry 
with the sanding dust, this penetrates down into the grains and then 
hardens to seal and protect the wood and give it a harder finish.  It 
will also bead water, (don't ask how I know that...) even before you add 
the wax.


Danny


On 5/30/2018 2:33 PM, David via CnC-List wrote:


So my forward cabin bulkheads are not looking great.   Used vinegar 
and water to clean and tried a recommended restorative product and it 
turned the worst part black.  WTF.



I assume I can sand it but I also think it is a thin veneer.   Any 
experience?



Thanks in advance.


*David F. Risch, J. D.*

*1981 40-2
*

*/GulfStreamAssociates,LLC/**
*

**

*(401) 419-4650 *


 
	Virus-free. www.avast.com 
 





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Stus-List Wood Bulkheads...

[David via CnC-List]

So my forward cabin bulkheads are not looking great.   Used vinegar and water 
to clean and tried a recommended restorative product and it turned the worst 
part black.  WTF.


I assume I can sand it but I also think it is a thin veneer.   Any experience?


Thanks in advance.


David F. Risch, J. D.

1981 40-2

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650

[https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif]
Virus-free. 
www.avast.com
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Re: Stus-List problem getting the raw water flowing

[David Miles via CnC-List]

We had an issue too this year, first launch, as did another local boat. 
Were told very common that the exhaust elbow will close up due to mineral 
buildup.  Apparently 3-5 year life. We took it off and cleared some crap 
out with a screwdriver,  put it back on and flow was back. We plan to 
replace soon with a stainless steel copy of the Yanmar part, to see if it 
lasts longer.



On May 30, 2018 11:08:48 Eric Frank via CnC-List  wrote:
Never had trouble with this before, but this year I could not get the raw 
water going out the exhaust when I was getting ready for launching.  Always 
use a bucket of fresh water on the intake to the raw water pump (new 
impeller every year) just to make sure things are working.  Engine started 
fine but no water out the exhaust. Impeller was turning when I cranked the 
engine so thought the problem might be downstream of that. A mechanic at 
the yard reported back that things were fine and he just had to run the 
engine at a high RPM to get the raw water flowing.  Anyone else experience 
that? Does it suggest that the tubes where the raw water cools the engine 
water could be getting clogged? Advice appreciated.


Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List problem getting the raw water flowing

[jhnelson24 via CnC-List]

Some of the impeller the pin doesn't go through the rubber fins and it slips on 
the hub. You may wish to swap as a test.
This has baffled many people because the impeller looks perfectly fine.


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
 Original message From: Eric Frank via CnC-List 
 Date: 2018-05-30  14:46  (GMT-04:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Eric Frank  Subject: Stus-List 
problem getting the raw water flowing 
 Never had trouble with this before, but this year I could not get the raw 
water going out the exhaust when I was getting ready for launching.  Always use 
a bucket of fresh water on the intake to the raw water pump (new impeller every 
year) just to make sure things are working.  Engine started fine but no water 
out the exhaust. Impeller was turning when I cranked the engine so thought the 
problem might be downstream of that. A mechanic at the yard reported back that 
things were fine and he just had to run the engine at a high RPM to get the raw 
water flowing.  Anyone else experience that? Does it suggest that the tubes 
where the raw water cools the engine water could be getting clogged? Advice 
appreciated.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA



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Stus-List problem getting the raw water flowing

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

 Never had trouble with this before, but this year I could not get the raw 
water going out the exhaust when I was getting ready for launching.  Always use 
a bucket of fresh water on the intake to the raw water pump (new impeller every 
year) just to make sure things are working.  Engine started fine but no water 
out the exhaust. Impeller was turning when I cranked the engine so thought the 
problem might be downstream of that. A mechanic at the yard reported back that 
things were fine and he just had to run the engine at a high RPM to get the raw 
water flowing.  Anyone else experience that? Does it suggest that the tubes 
where the raw water cools the engine water could be getting clogged? Advice 
appreciated.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

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Stus-List Edson Throttle Tensioning Screw/Bolt

[robert via CnC-List]

Chuck

Thank you for your prompt and informative response..and the 
websitethe tech bulletin(s) I was trying to access were not available.


From one of the diagrams on the website you provided, it appears the 
'tension control adjuster' could possibly be under the compass. Going to 
the boat this p.m. and will remove the compass and investigate.


Getting the clamp on the throttle cable adjusted in a PITA.mine is 
located in the engine compartmentenough said.


Not sure I am brave enough to do the 'drill and tap' alternate 
solutionif there is no 'tension control adjuster' I might just live 
with the clamp on the throttle cable and a small bungee cor/d I 
sometimes use to hold the throttle in place.


Regards

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S./

On 2018-05-30 11:44 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List wrote:

Howdy Rob,
Early versions of the 870 engine control didn't have the throttle tensioning screw 
located on the starboard aluminum "boss" on the control casting.  The common 
option to reduce the effect of the throttle return spring was to install a cable clamp 
around the throttle cable with just enough tightness to create friction and keep the 
throttle from closing.  My Landfall 35 has a different control (model 737) than yours but 
has the same clamp arrangement. Getting the right setting is a bit of a trial and error 
arrangement and will vary with cable wear.

As an alternate solution, you can drill and tap the casting to accept a 1/4"x 
3/4" 20 tpi thread bolt or screw and bear down slightly  on the plastic collar 
through which the throttle lever runs on the control.  Its not a bad idea to replace the 
white plastic collar when you do that.   Keep in mind that you can adjust or remove a 
clamp mounted externally from the pedestal if it is located in an easily accessible spot, 
but having the adjustment inside the pedestal requires removing the compass to make 
adjustments over time.  (More work, yes, but it is also an excuse to lubricate the 
pedestal wheel shaft bearings and run some 30 weight oil over the steering chain with a 
rag and check for broken or worn teeth on the sprocket, you know, the annual steering 
inspection and service that virtually nobody ever does...)

I also know that Edson recently revamped their website and their tech bulletins 
weren't available online for a while.  They're up and running now and the one 
you need to reference is here:
https://edsonmarine.com/content/EB396EngineControlInstr.pdf
Hope this helps... give a shout offline in case you need more info.
Cheers,
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 LF 35
Padanaram, MA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of robert via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2018 9:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List Edson Throttle Tensioning Screw/Bolt

I am pretty sure my boat has the Edson #870 pedestalSS throttle on the 
starboard side, SS gear shifter on the port side.  I have been searching 
the Edson Marine website to learn about the 'throttle tensioning screw/bolt' 
but have had no success accessing any information on it..specifically, 
where exactly is it located and how do adjust the tension on the cable so that 
the engine holds an RPM.

My throttle currently has a 'clamp' on the cable that can be tensioned however 
if there is a better way to properly tension the throttle cable, I would like 
to experiment with that.

Chuck Gilchrist, I suspect you might have specific knowledge of this. if 
you read this, your input would be greatly appreciated.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32- 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Edson Throttle Tensioning Screw/Bolt

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Howdy Rob,
Early versions of the 870 engine control didn't have the throttle tensioning 
screw located on the starboard aluminum "boss" on the control casting.  The 
common option to reduce the effect of the throttle return spring was to install 
a cable clamp around the throttle cable with just enough tightness to create 
friction and keep the throttle from closing.  My Landfall 35 has a different 
control (model 737) than yours but has the same clamp arrangement. Getting the 
right setting is a bit of a trial and error arrangement and will vary with 
cable wear.

As an alternate solution, you can drill and tap the casting to accept a 1/4"x 
3/4" 20 tpi thread bolt or screw and bear down slightly  on the plastic collar 
through which the throttle lever runs on the control.  Its not a bad idea to 
replace the white plastic collar when you do that.   Keep in mind that you can 
adjust or remove a clamp mounted externally from the pedestal if it is located 
in an easily accessible spot, but having the adjustment inside the pedestal 
requires removing the compass to make adjustments over time.  (More work, yes, 
but it is also an excuse to lubricate the pedestal wheel shaft bearings and run 
some 30 weight oil over the steering chain with a rag and check for broken or 
worn teeth on the sprocket, you know, the annual steering inspection and 
service that virtually nobody ever does...)

I also know that Edson recently revamped their website and their tech bulletins 
weren't available online for a while.  They're up and running now and the one 
you need to reference is here:
https://edsonmarine.com/content/EB396EngineControlInstr.pdf
Hope this helps... give a shout offline in case you need more info.
Cheers,
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 LF 35
Padanaram, MA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of robert via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2018 9:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List Edson Throttle Tensioning Screw/Bolt

I am pretty sure my boat has the Edson #870 pedestalSS throttle on the 
starboard side, SS gear shifter on the port side.  I have been searching 
the Edson Marine website to learn about the 'throttle tensioning screw/bolt' 
but have had no success accessing any information on it..specifically, 
where exactly is it located and how do adjust the tension on the cable so that 
the engine holds an RPM.

My throttle currently has a 'clamp' on the cable that can be tensioned however 
if there is a better way to properly tension the throttle cable, I would like 
to experiment with that.

Chuck Gilchrist, I suspect you might have specific knowledge of this. if 
you read this, your input would be greatly appreciated.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32- 84
Halifax, N.S.


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



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Stus-List Edson Throttle Tensioning Screw/Bolt

[robert via CnC-List]

I am pretty sure my boat has the Edson #870 pedestalSS throttle on 
the starboard side, SS gear shifter on the port side.      I have been 
searching the Edson Marine website to learn about the 'throttle 
tensioning screw/bolt' but have had no success accessing any information 
on it..specifically, where exactly is it located and how do adjust 
the tension on the cable so that the engine holds an RPM.


My throttle currently has a 'clamp' on the cable that can be tensioned 
however if there is a better way to properly tension the throttle cable, 
I would like to experiment with that.


Chuck Gilchrist, I suspect you might have specific knowledge of 
this. if you read this, your input would be greatly appreciated.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32- 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List 34+ / 37+ Layup schedule

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

 That is awesome, I would sure like to have that information for my 37.; I 
have all of the spec sheets and drawings information from the Great Lakes 
museum for the 37, does anyone know of any other source? (the build file for my 
boat is no longer available).

 


Richard


1s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;

Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ken Heaton ; Francois Rivard 
; tom hoffmann 
Sent: Wed, May 30, 2018 4:55 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List 34+ / 37+ Layup schedule



And the Construction Drawings for the 37/40 Series, showing the layup schedule 
for 1990, and layup details, etc are online here: 
https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html


Ken H.



On 29 May 2018 at 16:39, Francois Rivard via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hi Thomas, 


Below is what I know about the layup schedule on the 34 / 37 + boats. I got 
this off a forum somewhere (Not this one) a few years ago. 



Topsides (total thickness 1.19")
1. Gelcoat
2. 1.5 oz. Chop
3. 1.5 oz. Mat
4. C72K/100 Kevlar Fabmat
5. 1” Balsa Core
6. C72K/100 Kevlar Fabmat
 
Bottom (total thickness 1.23")
1. Gelcoat
2. 1.5 oz. Chop
3. 1.5 oz. Mat
4. C77K/200 Kevlar Fabmat
5. 1” Balsa Core
6. C72K/100 Kevlar Fabmat
 
Tuck area at turn of bilge to keel sump two (2) additional layers of C77K/200 
Kevlar Fabmat are added to the interior layer of the bottom schedule for a 
total thickness of 1.39"  Keel sump has Balsa replaced by two (2) layers of 
Compositex.
 
DuPont Aramat C72K/200 seems to have been an E-glass/Kevlar hybrid weave.  The 
following is all I could find out about the stuff on the web:
 
Composition of the glass/Kevlar hybrid, DuPont's Aramat 72K/200:
 
ComponentG/SQ.MOZ/SQ.YD  Wt. % in Base Fabric Wt. % inTotal 
Fabric
Glass Fiber 245.6   7.2 63  
41.1
Kevlar 49144.0   4.2 37 
 24.0
Mat Backing200.0   5.9 --   
33.5
Stitching Yarn 8.0   0.2 -- 
1.4
Total   597.6 17.5





Hydrex is a trade name for a product line from Reichhold Chemicals. The 
original product was a VE/DCPD blend resin that offered the blister resistance 
of VE resin, but with the tensile elongation or 2.4 which is comparable to a 
good GP. The added DCPD allowed the resin to be promoted at the manufacturer 
rather than the shop floor. It was a very good resin, but not one which would 
have been ideal for an aramid laminate.
 
Hydrex 100 is a full VE resin with tensile elongation of 3.4%. Many VE resins 
have an unstable gel time and need to be promoted at the shop to insure that it 
does not drift out of range. Reichhold improved the stability of the resin so 
that they could still promote at the manufacturer and get stable gel times and 
cure rates. They now offer lower styrene versions as well.



There is some description of the layup on the 34+ here as well: 
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/reviews/review34-36.htm


I hope this helps. 


Jean-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
 


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Re: Stus-List 34+ / 37+ Layup schedule

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

And the Construction Drawings for the 37/40 Series, showing the layup
schedule for 1990, and layup details, etc are online here:
https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html

Ken H.

On 29 May 2018 at 16:39, Francois Rivard via CnC-List  wrote:

> Hi Thomas,
>
> Below is what I know about the layup schedule on the 34 / 37 + boats. I
> got this off a forum somewhere (Not this one) a few years ago.
>
> Topsides (total thickness 1.19")
> 1. Gelcoat
> 2. 1.5 oz. Chop
> 3. 1.5 oz. Mat
> 4. C72K/100 Kevlar Fabmat
> 5. 1” Balsa Core
> 6. C72K/100 Kevlar Fabmat
>
> Bottom (total thickness 1.23")
> 1. Gelcoat
> 2. 1.5 oz. Chop
> 3. 1.5 oz. Mat
> 4. C77K/200 Kevlar Fabmat
> 5. 1” Balsa Core
> 6. C72K/100 Kevlar Fabmat
>
> Tuck area at turn of bilge to keel sump two (2) additional layers of
> C77K/200 Kevlar Fabmat are added to the interior layer of the bottom
> schedule for a total thickness of 1.39"  Keel sump has Balsa replaced by
> two (2) layers of Compositex.
>
> DuPont Aramat C72K/200 seems to have been an E-glass/Kevlar hybrid weave.
> The following is all I could find out about the stuff on the web:
>
> Composition of the glass/Kevlar hybrid, DuPont's Aramat 72K/200:
>
> ComponentG/SQ.MOZ/SQ.YD  Wt. % in Base Fabric Wt. %
> inTotal Fabric
> Glass Fiber 245.6   7.2 63
>   41.1
> Kevlar 49144.0   4.2 37
>   24.0
> Mat Backing200.0   5.9 --
>  33.5
> Stitching Yarn 8.0   0.2 --
>  1.4
> Total   597.6 17.5
>
>
> Hydrex is a trade name for a product line from Reichhold Chemicals. The
> original product was a VE/DCPD blend resin that offered the blister
> resistance of VE resin, but with the tensile elongation or 2.4 which is
> comparable to a good GP. The added DCPD allowed the resin to be promoted at
> the manufacturer rather than the shop floor. It was a very good resin, but
> not one which would have been ideal for an aramid laminate.
>
> Hydrex 100 is a full VE resin with tensile elongation of 3.4%. Many VE
> resins have an unstable gel time and need to be promoted at the shop to
> insure that it does not drift out of range. Reichhold improved the
> stability of the resin so that they could still promote at the manufacturer
> and get stable gel times and cure rates. They now offer lower styrene
> versions as well.
>
> There is some description of the layup on the 34+ here as well:
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/reviews/review34-36.htm
>
> I hope this helps.
>
> Jean-Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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