Re: Stus-List C 37 Keel bolt size

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

Josh; thanks the video was very helpful;  it appear that all of the bolts for 
my boat are the same size; but I will re measure the bolt size;  
 

 


Richard

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Sent: Wed, Jun 27, 2018 5:43 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 37 Keel bolt size



Torque values are typically based on the size of the threaded portion of the 
bolt not the nut size or socket size.  It was a little unclear y your 
description which you were measuring.  Have you seen my video?  I provided 
extra info in the video description.  I'll link it here and copy the 
description text too. 


https://youtu.be/n6B0IPKQERc


I used the torque values from the link below as a guide.  316 SS lubricated. 

https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Torque%20of%20Stainless%20Steel,%20Non%20ferrous%20Torque.pdf

 
https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/nuts-washers/us-nut-dimensions.aspx

C 37+ Keel bolts (fwd to aft):
 Nut   stud   torque3:1 multiplier

#1 - 1-1/21  255 =  85 x 3
#2 - 2-3/16 1-1/2615 =  205 x 3
#3 - 2-3/16 1-1/2615 =  205 x 3
#4 - 2-3/16 1-1/2615 =  205 x 3
#5 - 1 7/8   1-1/4465 =  155 x 3
#6 - 2-3/161-1/  615 =  205 x 3
#7 - 1-1/2  1255 =  85 x 3
#8 - 3/4 1/2 38

Here are a few pictures.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1G3HVN_jj0PYa0e5Otk9nwdqVoR4CYTCy

Tef-gel
https://www.ultratef-gel.com/tef-gel/


Looks to me like from the description your bolt matches my #5 bolt.  I got the 
sockets on ebay and yes most of them where ~$50.  I made sure to get deep 6 
point sockets 3/4" drive so that my breaker bar and torque multiplier would fit.


Let me know if you have any other questions. 


Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD












On Tue, Jun 26, 2018, 3:14 PM bushmark4--- via CnC-List  
wrote:


 Help! I am working on the torque for my keel bolts; (1985 37 CB); I am having 
difficulty in two areas; No 1. finding a deep well socket for tightening the 
keel bolts; my problem seems to be the size of the bolt; (or more likely, my 
poor measuring); I measure the bolts at 1 3/32; no one carries a socket for 
that size; it seems to translate to between 27 and 28 metric, and the least 
expensive deep well sockets I can find are about $30-50 bucks apiece;  can 
anyone point me in the right direction? Am I measuring wrong? or is there a 
standard size I should go with...
No. 2; do the torque measurement numbers on the Photo album apply to 
centerboard keels and as well as fixed keels? 
any help is appreciated...many thanks

 


Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596:




Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 



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Re: Stus-List checking fire extinguishers & Lifeslings

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

make sure the powder is not compacted, need to shake it up regularly.  It will 
not work if the powder is in one big lump.

Leslie,
semi-retired USAR member.


On Wed, 6/27/18, svrebeccaleah via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List checking fire extinguishers & Lifeslings
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "svrebeccaleah" 
 Date: Wednesday, June 27, 2018, 9:55 AM
 
 Eric,I
 just replaced some of my fire extinguishers. There was a
 year embossed on the bottom of mine. One was 88, another was
 94. As long as the pressure is in the green, and weight is
 above minimum on label they are serviceable.(this is how we
 check the at the airline I work for).  I use a small
 kitchen scale. 
 
 
 Doug
 Mountjoy Rebecca
 Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC,
 WA.
 
 
  Original
 message From: Eric Frank via CnC-List
  Date: 6/27/18 
 08:56  (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Eric Frank 
 Subject: Stus-List checking fire extinguishers
 & Lifeslings 
 
 Checking the condition of the
 extinguishers aboard Cats Paw - I can’t find a date on
 them.  Aren’t they supposed to be replaced every 5 years,
 or is it sufficient to just check that the pressure
 indicator is safely in the green? A related safety issue - I
 checked the line inside my Lifesling and discovered the
 splice between the yellow polypropylene line and the heavier
 line that is secured to a deck cleat was in terrible
 condition.  It would likely have broken had we used it.
 That has not been on my list to check annually but certainly
 is now - just passing this along to the group.
  Polypropylene is UV sensitive, so it's likely the
 plastic line should be replaced.  Is that safe (and would
 it satisfy a safety inspection) - if so how does one splice
 the plastic line with the heavier line at the end? For this
 year, I decided to buy a new Lifesling, although the
 Sunbrella cover I had made for it when purchased seems in
 good condition.
 
 Eric
 Frank
 Cat's
 Paw, C 35 Mk II
 Mattapoisett, MA
 
 
 
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 this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is
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 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 

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Re: Stus-List 1985 C 41 Bow Chocks

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

You’ll probably need a better picture.  Maybe from above.  Lots of options
in stainless but that almost looks like it was cast in aluminum.  Mine is a
stainless bow fitting and anchor sprit.  Standard chocks attach behind the
bow fitting with 2 large machine screws.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Wed, Jun 27, 2018, 7:40 PM Christopher Knox via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Very soon I plan to have a new to me 1985 C 41. Overall the boat is in
> good condition, of course there are a few minor issues here and there. One
> that concerns me a little is a broken chock on the port side of the bow
> casting.
> You can see a picture here...
>
> https://drive.google.com/a/tecniplastusa.com/file/d/1Y7UNG_UuyAtEevboTVUi-r2NAqsrE3Xt/view?usp=drivesdk
>
> Does anyone have a good source of repair or replacement information for
> such an item?
>
> Thank you,
> Chris
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
>
> On Wed, Jun 27, 2018 at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>  wrote:
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
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> Today's Topics:
>
>   1. Re:  Anchor (Chuck S)
>   2. Re:  Anchor (David Knecht)
>   3.  checking fire extinguishers & Lifeslings (Eric Frank)
> What's the problem.  Is it hard to dock?
>
> I went to a lot of trouble to get my anchor out as far as practical so it
> wouldn't hit the hull.  Heavy duty roller/channel for the anchor, backing
> plate underneath and custom shim pieces molded to level the deck camber,
> five SS thru-bolts, some are angled. I pull the anchor when racing.  I have
> a system using a 20 foot length of line and caribiner, clip onto the cross
> rod of the Delta head and tension that over the pulpit, then release the
> main anchor line and I can lift the Delta over the pulpit onto the deck.
> This takes minutes.
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
>
> > On June 27, 2018 at 9:30 AM Home via CnC-List 
> wrote:
> >
> >
> > I have a beautiful 1986 38-ft MKIII.
> > The one thing I hate about my boat is the anchor
> > The anchor sticks a mile out and it is tied at the shackle to keep it
> secured.
> > I have been looking at other boats, no CNC in the area close by.
> > I was hoping someone withe same boat could tell me what they have set up
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> > ___
> >
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >
>
>
>
> Hi Chuck- Can you provide some pictures of this setup?  I have not pulled
> mine for racing because it does not fit under the pulpit so I would ahve to
> disconnect the chain, lift it over the pulpit to store and then reconnect
> if needed.  One of the unexpected disadvantages of the Rocna design.  That
> did not seem safe to me so I have left it on.  I guess it would not take
> long to run the chain through the pulpit and rethread the shackle.  Does
> yours fit under the pulpit?  Dave
>
> On Jun 27, 2018, at 11:07 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> What's the problem.  Is it hard to dock?
>
> I went to a lot of trouble to get my anchor out as far as practical so it
> wouldn't hit the hull.  Heavy duty roller/channel for the anchor, backing
> plate underneath and custom shim pieces molded to level the deck camber,
> five SS thru-bolts, some are angled. I pull the anchor when racing.  I have
> a system using a 20 foot length of line and caribiner, clip onto the cross
> rod of the Delta head and tension that over the pulpit, then release the
> main anchor line and I can lift the Delta over the pulpit onto the deck.
> This takes minutes.
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
>
> On June 27, 2018 at 9:30 AM Home via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
> I have a beautiful 1986 38-ft MKIII.
> The one thing I hate about my boat is the anchor
> The anchor sticks a mile out and it is tied at the shackle to keep it
> secured.
> I have been looking at other boats, no CNC in the area close by.
> I was hoping someone withe same boat could tell me what they have set up
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly 

Re: Stus-List C 35 Mk-III for Sale

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

What!?  Congratulations!

On Wed, Jun 27, 2018, 8:02 PM Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Guys,
>
>
>
> As a long time lister and C owner I have truly enjoyed this forum.   I
> have recently decided to move up to a larger boat and put my beloved 1986
> C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress” up for sale.  I am working on a full
> equipment listing, which will be available soon.
>
>
>
> The boat is set up for comfortable racing and cruising with a good sail
> inventory, dodger, bimini, awning, and a custom-fit winter cover.  The boat
> was commissioned and launched in May of this year with a fresh coat of
> bottom paint, some fresh varnish, and wax.  I will probably eventually list
> it with a broker, but thought I’d see if there was any interest here
> first.  I am asking $37,500.
>
>
>
> If you’re interested in the boat, please drop me a note “off-list” @
> captain_j...@cox.net.   The boat is currently berthed in Hampton VA.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
> [image: cid:image001.png@01D2F43E.567E4070]
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Touche' hydraulic backstay adjuster repair

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Dennis,
Your guy sounds better than the offer I got from Chesapeake Rigging. They 
wanted $800 to do the seals and said the cylinder may be worn and may cost even 
more money.

You remind me I need to place a sun shield on my ram seal also.
I was thinking of using a hole saw to cut a wafer out of 3/8 PVC foamboard and 
slip that down onto the rod.
A stainless fender washer might work better if you can get the hole close to 
the -10 rod diameter. Or a combination of the two.
Third idea: sacrificial O-ring on the rod above the seal.


> On June 27, 2018 at 3:57 PM "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> 
> First, thanks to the list for all the helpful advice, on and off list.
> 
> OK, decision made.  Lots learned.  Lots of thought given.
> 
> First, a hydraulic backstay adjuster is just a hydraulic ram.  Any good 
> hydraulic shop should be able to fix the leak.  I took the adjuster to a 
> local shop and they said they could "probably" fix the leak.  They wanted 
> $125 minimum.  I didn't get a warm, fuzzy feeling that "Bubba" understood the 
> exposure to saltwater, the importance of stainless parts, etc.
> 
> So I gave it a bit more thought.  My adjuster is 18 years old.  It has 
> been exposed to the elements for those 18 years.  My research suggests that 
> the root cause is probably deterioration of the top seal.  It is exposed to 
> UV.  Once the top seal fails, grit may enter the unit and then cause damage 
> to the piston seals resulting in leakage and failure.  Further, if not fixed 
> properly, the grit may score the cylinder, rendering the unit unfixable.  So, 
> we may be dealing with more than just a "leak".
> 
> Given that, I decided to opt for a full rebuild rather than let Bubba fix 
> only the leak.  After talking with Lew Townsend and a few other Navtec 
> agents, the pricing seems to be in the $350-400 range.  The seal kit is about 
> $100 online.  
> 
> Right now, it's on it's way to Stix-N-Rig'n in Kemah, TX.  They have good 
> online reviews and seemed knowledgeable and competent.  Hopefully, I'll get a 
> good fix and a quick turnaround.  I'll let the list know how it goes.
> 
> As a final note, I need to figure a way to protect the top seal from UV 
> exposure.  I might find a proper size plastic washer or plastic or PVC cap 
> and slip it down the rod so it sits on top of the cylinder and shades the 
> seal.  
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
 
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Stus-List C 35 Mk-III for Sale

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Guys,

 

As a long time lister and C owner I have truly enjoyed this forum.   I
have recently decided to move up to a larger boat and put my beloved 1986
C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress" up for sale.  I am working on a full
equipment listing, which will be available soon.  

 

The boat is set up for comfortable racing and cruising with a good sail
inventory, dodger, bimini, awning, and a custom-fit winter cover.  The boat
was commissioned and launched in May of this year with a fresh coat of
bottom paint, some fresh varnish, and wax.  I will probably eventually list
it with a broker, but thought I'd see if there was any interest here first.
I am asking $37,500.

 

If you're interested in the boat, please drop me a note "off-list" @
captain_j...@cox.net  .   The boat is currently
berthed in Hampton VA.

 

Thanks,

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"

Hampton VA



 

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Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Cleat (revisited)

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi John,
Please send me a picture of your boat in the slip and I might have some ideas 
on how to rig springs.


> On June 27, 2018 at 5:13 PM John Conklin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> simply because of my docking situation i have only 1 half finger pier and 
> 3 pilings one side and 4 other with 1/2 pier. so no place to put spring lines 
> that function tohold   boat from goong fore and aft. And no place  no room 
> for 2 lines on bow or stern cleats even if I could go  that route 
> This rookie is still working out details as to what works best 
> 
> JohnC
> s/v halcyon
> 
> On Jun 27, 2018, at 10:59 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> 
> > > 
> > I’ve actually been following this discussion, though I don’t 
> > foresee the need for a mid-ship cleat on Imzadi.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Imzadi is one of the mid-70s C that came with a winch farm 
> > around the mast. I’ve led lines aft and eliminated the winches, but kept 
> > the cleats on the cabin top. The spring lines in my home slip are attached 
> > high on pilings so they can be routed over the lifelines and to the cabin 
> > top mid-ship cleats. Since I leave a set of lines permanently attached at 
> > the home slip, and they are preset for length with the eye toward the boat, 
> > this makes entering the slip and tying up pretty easy.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > On the bigger boats I’ve worked on (up to about 85 feet or so) and 
> > observed, the normal procedure is to run the springs from the bow and stern 
> > and attach them to the dock in the middle. That is the practice I almost 
> > always use when on a dock other than my home slip. And that is the way my 
> > 25 is secured in her slip.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > On the 72 foot schooner I used to captain, we had prerigged bow and 
> > bow spring through the forward hawse hole, and prerigged stern and aft 
> > spring lines through the aft hole. We did have a short-ish (25 ft. or so) 
> > breast line through a mid-ship hawse, but that line was always the first 
> > line to the dock so I could use the engine fore and aft to snug the boat up 
> > to the dock before setting dock lines, and it was removed and coiled after 
> > the other lines were secure.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > I guess I’m curious why so many other C have added mid-ship 
> > cleats?
> > 
> >  
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Rick Brass
> > 
> > Imzadi  C 38 mk2 #47
> > 
> > la Belle Aurore  C 25 mk1 #225
> > 
> > Washington, NC
> > 
> >  
> > 
> >  
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > > 
> > > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
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> > 
> > 
> > > 
 

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> 
> 
 
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Re: Stus-List 1985 C 41 Bow Chocks

[Christopher Knox via CnC-List]

Very soon I plan to have a new to me 1985 C 41. Overall the boat is in good 
condition, of course there are a few minor issues here and there. One that 
concerns me a little is a broken chock on the port side of the bow casting. You 
can see a picture 
here...https://drive.google.com/a/tecniplastusa.com/file/d/1Y7UNG_UuyAtEevboTVUi-r2NAqsrE3Xt/view?usp=drivesdk
Does anyone have a good source of repair or replacement information for such an 
item? 
Thank you, Chris

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Wed, Jun 27, 2018 at 12:00 PM, 
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
Today's Topics:

  1. Re:  Anchor (Chuck S)
  2. Re:  Anchor (David Knecht)
  3.  checking fire extinguishers & Lifeslings (Eric Frank)
What's the problem.  Is it hard to dock?

I went to a lot of trouble to get my anchor out as far as practical so it 
wouldn't hit the hull.  Heavy duty roller/channel for the anchor, backing plate 
underneath and custom shim pieces molded to level the deck camber, five SS 
thru-bolts, some are angled. I pull the anchor when racing.  I have a system 
using a 20 foot length of line and caribiner, clip onto the cross rod of the 
Delta head and tension that over the pulpit, then release the main anchor line 
and I can lift the Delta over the pulpit onto the deck.  This takes minutes.

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


> On June 27, 2018 at 9:30 AM Home via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> 
> I have a beautiful 1986 38-ft MKIII.
> The one thing I hate about my boat is the anchor
> The anchor sticks a mile out and it is tied at the shackle to keep it 
> secured. 
> I have been looking at other boats, no CNC in the area close by. 
> I was hoping someone withe same boat could tell me what they have set up
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>



Hi Chuck- Can you provide some pictures of this setup?  I have not pulled mine 
for racing because it does not fit under the pulpit so I would ahve to 
disconnect the chain, lift it over the pulpit to store and then reconnect if 
needed.  One of the unexpected disadvantages of the Rocna design.  That did not 
seem safe to me so I have left it on.  I guess it would not take long to run 
the chain through the pulpit and rethread the shackle.  Does yours fit under 
the pulpit?  Dave

On Jun 27, 2018, at 11:07 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List  
wrote:
What's the problem.  Is it hard to dock?

I went to a lot of trouble to get my anchor out as far as practical so it 
wouldn't hit the hull.  Heavy duty roller/channel for the anchor, backing plate 
underneath and custom shim pieces molded to level the deck camber, five SS 
thru-bolts, some are angled. I pull the anchor when racing.  I have a system 
using a 20 foot length of line and caribiner, clip onto the cross rod of the 
Delta head and tension that over the pulpit, then release the main anchor line 
and I can lift the Delta over the pulpit onto the deck.  This takes minutes.

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md



On June 27, 2018 at 9:30 AM Home via CnC-List  wrote:


I have a beautiful 1986 38-ft MKIII.
The one thing I hate about my boat is the anchor
The anchor sticks a mile out and it is tied at the shackle to keep it secured. 
I have been looking at other boats, no CNC in the area close by. 
I was hoping someone withe same boat could tell me what they have set up

Sent from my iPad

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Aries1990 C 34+New London, CT

Checking the condition of the extinguishers aboard Cats Paw - I can’t find a 
date on them.  Aren’t they supposed to be replaced every 5 years, or is it 
sufficient to just check that the pressure indicator is safely in the green? A 
related safety issue - I checked the line inside my Lifesling and discovered 
the splice between 

Re: Stus-List C 37 Keel bolt size

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Torque values are typically based on the size of the threaded portion of
the bolt not the nut size or socket size.  It was a little unclear y your
description which you were measuring.  Have you seen my video?  I provided
extra info in the video description.  I'll link it here and copy the
description text too.

https://youtu.be/n6B0IPKQERc

I used the torque values from the link below as a guide.  316 SS
lubricated.

https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Torque%20of%20Stainless%20Steel,%20Non%20ferrous%20Torque.pdf

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/nuts-washers/us-nut-dimensions.aspx

C 37+ Keel bolts (fwd to aft):
Nut   stud   torque3:1 multiplier

#1 - 1-1/21  255 =  85 x 3
#2 - 2-3/16 1-1/2615 =  205 x 3
#3 - 2-3/16 1-1/2615 =  205 x 3
#4 - 2-3/16 1-1/2615 =  205 x 3
#5 - 1 7/8   1-1/4465 =  155 x 3
#6 - 2-3/161-1/  615 =  205 x 3
#7 - 1-1/2  1255 =  85 x 3
#8 - 3/4 1/2 38

Here are a few pictures.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1G3HVN_jj0PYa0e5Otk9nwdqVoR4CYTCy

Tef-gel
https://www.ultratef-gel.com/tef-gel/

Looks to me like from the description your bolt matches my #5 bolt.  I got
the sockets on ebay and yes most of them where ~$50.  I made sure to get
deep 6 point sockets 3/4" drive so that my breaker bar and torque
multiplier would fit.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD






On Tue, Jun 26, 2018, 3:14 PM bushmark4--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Help! I am working on the torque for my keel bolts; (1985 37 CB); I am
> having difficulty in two areas; No 1. finding a deep well socket for
> tightening the keel bolts; my problem seems to be the size of the bolt; (or
> more likely, my poor measuring); I measure the bolts at 1 3/32; no one
> carries a socket for that size; it seems to translate to between 27 and 28
> metric, and the least expensive deep well sockets I can find are about
> $30-50 bucks apiece;  can anyone point me in the right direction? Am I
> measuring wrong? or is there a standard size I should go with...
> No. 2; do the torque measurement numbers on the Photo album apply to
> centerboard keels and as well as fixed keels?
> any help is appreciated...many thanks
>
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596:
>
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Cleat (revisited)

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

simply because of my docking situation i have only 1 half finger pier and 3 
pilings one side and 4 other with 1/2 pier. so no place to put spring lines 
that function tohold   boat from goong fore and aft. And no place  no room for 
2 lines on bow or stern cleats even if I could go  that route
This rookie is still working out details as to what works best

JohnC
s/v halcyon

On Jun 27, 2018, at 10:59 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I’ve actually been following this discussion, though I don’t foresee the need 
for a mid-ship cleat on Imzadi.

Imzadi is one of the mid-70s C that came with a winch farm around the mast. 
I’ve led lines aft and eliminated the winches, but kept the cleats on the cabin 
top. The spring lines in my home slip are attached high on pilings so they can 
be routed over the lifelines and to the cabin top mid-ship cleats. Since I 
leave a set of lines permanently attached at the home slip, and they are preset 
for length with the eye toward the boat, this makes entering the slip and tying 
up pretty easy.

On the bigger boats I’ve worked on (up to about 85 feet or so) and observed, 
the normal procedure is to run the springs from the bow and stern and attach 
them to the dock in the middle. That is the practice I almost always use when 
on a dock other than my home slip. And that is the way my 25 is secured in her 
slip.

On the 72 foot schooner I used to captain, we had prerigged bow and bow spring 
through the forward hawse hole, and prerigged stern and aft spring lines 
through the aft hole. We did have a short-ish (25 ft. or so) breast line 
through a mid-ship hawse, but that line was always the first line to the dock 
so I could use the engine fore and aft to snug the boat up to the dock before 
setting dock lines, and it was removed and coiled after the other lines were 
secure.

I guess I’m curious why so many other C have added mid-ship cleats?


Rick Brass
Imzadi  C 38 mk2 #47
la Belle Aurore  C 25 mk1 #225
Washington, NC



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Re: Stus-List C 37 Keel bolt size

[schiller via CnC-List]

Richard,

No one has gotten back to you on this so I thought I would chime in.

The measurement that you provided is on the low end of a 1 1/8 hex (the 
min listed is 1.088 across flats).  You should be OK with a 1 1/8 
socket.  The torque should be based on fastener strength.  I made the 
chart on the C site from info that I found a long, long time ago.  We 
had a discussion a while back on the torque levels in the chart and 
whether they should be applied to dry or lubricated threads.  After 
looking at it again, the tables 250 ft-lb is pretty aggressive (assuming 
18-8 stainless) and I might back it down to 150 ft-lb dry or 100 ft-lb 
lubricated.  Those torques will bring the fastener to about 37,000 psi 
with a tensile yield allowable of 42,000 (minimum value that I could 
find, Stainless yield is not always listed).  These torques will give 
you a little less than 12,000 lb theoretical clamping force.  We used to 
say the proper torque was tighten till it stretches.


Hope that helps, but in all likelihood it will probably create a bigger 
discussion.  In the missile business we called stainless steel fasteners 
"butter bolts" because of the yield strength, but that is what our keel 
bolts are and that is what we try to live with.


Neil Schiller
BSME Michigan Technological University, 1977
1983 C 35-3, #028
"Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC
"Yes, I was a rocket scientist!"


On 6/26/2018 3:13 PM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List wrote:
Help! I am working on the torque for my keel bolts; (1985 37 CB); I am 
having difficulty in two areas; No 1. finding a deep well socket for 
tightening the keel bolts; my problem seems to be the size of the 
bolt; (or more likely, my poor measuring); I measure the bolts at 1 
3/32; no one carries a socket for that size; it seems to translate to 
between 27 and 28 metric, and the least expensive deep well sockets I 
can find are about $30-50 bucks apiece;  can anyone point me in the 
right direction? Am I measuring wrong? or is there a standard size I 
should go with...
No. 2; do the torque measurement numbers on the Photo album apply to 
centerboard keels and as well as fixed keels?

any help is appreciated...many thanks

Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596:


Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255





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Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Cleat (revisited)

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Some other solutions to the midship cleat issue:

http://www.stormforcemarine.com/nomen.html

https://www.amazon.com/Whitecap-4-1-Folding-Cleat-Stainless/dp/B00SG41IOE

https://www.whitworths.com.au/stainless-steel-x-folding-cleat-6

https://www.force4.co.uk/ys-toe-rail-spring-cleat.html

https://www.marinechandlery.com/allen-toerail-cleat-spring-cleat-ys9185-anodised-aluminium

FYI, Touche' has an inboard jib track with a sliding padeye.  I tie my
spring lines to the padeye.  Not optimum but usable.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Cleat (revisited)

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi Rick,
 Good points.  Two reasons for a mid ship cleat.

1.  Not all docks (and Piers) have mid cleats.
2.  The chocks at the bow and stern of my C are not big enough for 2-5/8"
dock lines, so chaffing is an issue.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah

~~~_/)~~


On Wed, Jun 27, 2018 at 10:59 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’ve actually been following this discussion, though I don’t foresee the
> need for a mid-ship cleat on Imzadi.
>
>
>
> Imzadi is one of the mid-70s C that came with a winch farm around the
> mast. I’ve led lines aft and eliminated the winches, but kept the cleats on
> the cabin top. The spring lines in my home slip are attached high on
> pilings so they can be routed over the lifelines and to the cabin top
> mid-ship cleats. Since I leave a set of lines permanently attached at the
> home slip, and they are preset for length with the eye toward the boat,
> this makes entering the slip and tying up pretty easy.
>
>
>
> On the bigger boats I’ve worked on (up to about 85 feet or so) and
> observed, the normal procedure is to run the springs from the bow and stern
> and attach them to the dock in the middle. That is the practice I almost
> always use when on a dock other than my home slip. And that is the way my
> 25 is secured in her slip.
>
>
>
> On the 72 foot schooner I used to captain, we had prerigged bow and bow
> spring through the forward hawse hole, and prerigged stern and aft spring
> lines through the aft hole. We did have a short-ish (25 ft. or so) breast
> line through a mid-ship hawse, but that line was always the first line to
> the dock so I could use the engine fore and aft to snug the boat up to the
> dock before setting dock lines, and it was removed and coiled after the
> other lines were secure.
>
>
>
> I guess I’m curious why so many other C have added mid-ship cleats?
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Imzadi  C 38 mk2 #47
>
> la Belle Aurore  C 25 mk1 #225
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Touche' hydraulic backstay adjuster repair

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

First, thanks to the list for all the helpful advice, on and off list.

OK, decision made.  Lots learned.  Lots of thought given.

First, a hydraulic backstay adjuster is just a hydraulic ram.  Any good
hydraulic shop should be able to fix the leak.  I took the adjuster to a
local shop and they said they could "probably" fix the leak.  They wanted
$125 minimum.  I didn't get a warm, fuzzy feeling that "Bubba" understood
the exposure to saltwater, the importance of stainless parts, etc.

So I gave it a bit more thought.  My adjuster is 18 years old.  It has been
exposed to the elements for those 18 years.  My research suggests that the
root cause is probably deterioration of the top seal.  It is exposed to
UV.  Once the top seal fails, grit may enter the unit and then cause damage
to the piston seals resulting in leakage and failure.  Further, if not
fixed properly, the grit may score the cylinder, rendering the unit
unfixable.  So, we may be dealing with more than just a "leak".

Given that, I decided to opt for a full rebuild rather than let Bubba fix
only the leak.  After talking with Lew Townsend and a few other Navtec
agents, the pricing seems to be in the $350-400 range.  The seal kit is
about $100 online.

Right now, it's on it's way to Stix-N-Rig'n in Kemah, TX.  They have good
online reviews and seemed knowledgeable and competent.  Hopefully, I'll get
a good fix and a quick turnaround.  I'll let the list know how it goes.

As a final note, I need to figure a way to protect the top seal from UV
exposure.  I might find a proper size plastic washer or plastic or PVC cap
and slip it down the rod so it sits on top of the cylinder and shades the
seal.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Cleat (revisited)

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I’ve actually been following this discussion, though I don’t foresee the need 
for a mid-ship cleat on Imzadi.

 

Imzadi is one of the mid-70s C that came with a winch farm around the mast. 
I’ve led lines aft and eliminated the winches, but kept the cleats on the cabin 
top. The spring lines in my home slip are attached high on pilings so they can 
be routed over the lifelines and to the cabin top mid-ship cleats. Since I 
leave a set of lines permanently attached at the home slip, and they are preset 
for length with the eye toward the boat, this makes entering the slip and tying 
up pretty easy.

 

On the bigger boats I’ve worked on (up to about 85 feet or so) and observed, 
the normal procedure is to run the springs from the bow and stern and attach 
them to the dock in the middle. That is the practice I almost always use when 
on a dock other than my home slip. And that is the way my 25 is secured in her 
slip.

 

On the 72 foot schooner I used to captain, we had prerigged bow and bow spring 
through the forward hawse hole, and prerigged stern and aft spring lines 
through the aft hole. We did have a short-ish (25 ft. or so) breast line 
through a mid-ship hawse, but that line was always the first line to the dock 
so I could use the engine fore and aft to snug the boat up to the dock before 
setting dock lines, and it was removed and coiled after the other lines were 
secure. 

 

I guess I’m curious why so many other C have added mid-ship cleats?

 

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk2 #47

la Belle Aurore  C 25 mk1 #225

Washington, NC

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Cleat (revisited)

[Allen Miles via CnC-List]

Slick Gary.  Nice straight forward design.  Think I'll try it myself.

Thanks for sharing

Allen Miles
Septima 30-2

On Tue, Jun 26, 2018 at 2:20 PM Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  A couple of weeks back there was a discussion about toe rail cleats.
> I was unhappy with the Johnson Toe Rail Cleat
> ,
> so I decided to make my own using a Schaefer 8" Black Aluminum Cleat
> .
> My solution looks like this
> 
> .
>
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> ~~~_/)~~
>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List checking fire extinguishers & Lifeslings

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Eric,I just replaced some of my fire extinguishers. There was a year embossed 
on the bottom of mine. One was 88, another was 94. As long as the pressure is 
in the green, and weight is above minimum on label they are serviceable.(this 
is how we check the at the airline I work for).  I use a small kitchen scale. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA.


 Original message From: Eric Frank via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/27/18  08:56  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Eric Frank  Subject: Stus-List 
checking fire extinguishers & Lifeslings 

Checking the condition of the extinguishers aboard Cats Paw - I can’t find a 
date on them.  Aren’t they supposed to be replaced every 5 years, or is it 
sufficient to just check that the pressure indicator is safely in the green? A 
related safety issue - I checked the line inside my Lifesling and discovered 
the splice between the yellow polypropylene line and the heavier line that is 
secured to a deck cleat was in terrible condition.  It would likely have broken 
had we used it. That has not been on my list to check annually but certainly is 
now - just passing this along to the group.  Polypropylene is UV sensitive, so 
it's likely the plastic line should be replaced.  Is that safe (and would it 
satisfy a safety inspection) - if so how does one splice the plastic line with 
the heavier line at the end? For this year, I decided to buy a new Lifesling, 
although the Sunbrella cover I had made for it when purchased seems in good 
condition.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw, C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA



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Re: Stus-List checking fire extinguishers & Lifeslings

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

All,

There used to be a spring checklist on the DIY page of the C Photo Album
site.  I get a 404 error when I try it.

Anyway, as the author, I put a copy here:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1M1rLbuz8-4Whdl18Yd8EA3cee0w2qJ5X

Note that one of the items is to repack your LifeSling.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Jun 27, 2018 at 10:56 AM, Eric Frank via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Checking the condition of the extinguishers aboard Cats Paw - I can’t find
> a date on them.  Aren’t they supposed to be replaced every 5 years, or is
> it sufficient to just check that the pressure indicator is safely in the
> green? A related safety issue - I checked the line inside my Lifesling and
> discovered the splice between the yellow polypropylene line and the heavier
> line that is secured to a deck cleat was in terrible condition.  It would
> likely have broken had we used it. That has not been on my list to check
> annually but certainly is now - just passing this along to the group.
> Polypropylene is UV sensitive, so it's likely the plastic line should be
> replaced.  Is that safe (and would it satisfy a safety inspection) - if so
> how does one splice the plastic line with the heavier line at the end? For
> this year, I decided to buy a new Lifesling, although the Sunbrella cover I
> had made for it when purchased seems in good condition.
> Eric Frank
> Cat's Paw, C 35 Mk II
> Mattapoisett, MA
>
>
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>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Anchor

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi Chuck- Can you provide some pictures of this setup?  I have not pulled mine 
for racing because it does not fit under the pulpit so I would ahve to 
disconnect the chain, lift it over the pulpit to store and then reconnect if 
needed.  One of the unexpected disadvantages of the Rocna design.  That did not 
seem safe to me so I have left it on.  I guess it would not take long to run 
the chain through the pulpit and rethread the shackle.  Does yours fit under 
the pulpit?  Dave

> On Jun 27, 2018, at 11:07 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> What's the problem.  Is it hard to dock?
> 
> I went to a lot of trouble to get my anchor out as far as practical so it 
> wouldn't hit the hull.  Heavy duty roller/channel for the anchor, backing 
> plate underneath and custom shim pieces molded to level the deck camber, five 
> SS thru-bolts, some are angled. I pull the anchor when racing.  I have a 
> system using a 20 foot length of line and caribiner, clip onto the cross rod 
> of the Delta head and tension that over the pulpit, then release the main 
> anchor line and I can lift the Delta over the pulpit onto the deck.  This 
> takes minutes.
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> 
> 
>> On June 27, 2018 at 9:30 AM Home via CnC-List  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> I have a beautiful 1986 38-ft MKIII.
>> The one thing I hate about my boat is the anchor
>> The anchor sticks a mile out and it is tied at the shackle to keep it 
>> secured. 
>> I have been looking at other boats, no CNC in the area close by. 
>> I was hoping someone withe same boat could tell me what they have set up
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Touche' hydraulic backstay adjuster repair

[Glenn Gambel via CnC-List]

My Navtec hydraulic backstay tensioner blew a seal in the middle of the 
Queen's Cup race from Milwaukee, WI. to Grand Haven, MI.  I called 
around and got some recommendations on a hydraulic manufacturer and 
repair shop near Grand Rapids, MI.  Took it in on Monday and hope to 
have it back in less than a week.  We shall see how it goes.  From the 
recommendations that I got and from meeting the gentlemen who will do 
the repairs, I think it will be repaired correctly.  It is a bonus that 
the gentlemen knew a good deal about sailboat racing and understood the 
stresses on the hydraulic backstay adjuster.


Glenn Gambel
Wind N Spirits
C 36

-- Original Message --
From: "Chuck S via CnC-List" 
To: capt...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Chuck S" ; "Francois Rivard" 


Sent: 6/27/2018 9:19:41 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Touche' hydraulic backstay adjuster repair

I had great success in 2007 taking my Navtec ram and remote pump to a 
local hydraulic shop that works on heavy equipment rams like dozers and 
backhoes, etc. Chesapeake Rigging wanted $800. I could have bought a 
new system for another $200.


Instead I took it to a shop and it cost me less than $50 and they bench 
tested my equipment to 4000# for 30 min to prove it was tight. The guy 
said the O-rings cost him 25 to 50 cents each. That was ten years ago 
and it occassionaly weeps some oil but it holds pressure for weeks on 
end.


On June 26, 2018 at 4:56 PM Francois Rivard via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Hi Dennis,

You could also call Rick Zern 850.261.4129 ( http://zernrigging.com)

Great guy, he's definitely Navtec certified some say he's the best 
Navtec guy in the Southeast.


He's in Pensacola, your neck of the woods. Heck, you could drive your 
adjuster over in a pinch...


Good luck on the project.

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
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Stus-List Anchor

[Home via CnC-List]

I have a beautiful 1986 38-ft MKIII.
The one thing I hate about my boat is the anchor
The anchor sticks a mile out and it is tied at the shackle to keep it secured. 
I have been looking at other boats, no CNC in the area close by. 
I was hoping someone withe same boat could tell me what they have set up

Sent from my iPad

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Re: Stus-List Touche' hydraulic backstay adjuster repair

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I had great success in 2007 taking my Navtec ram and remote pump to a local 
hydraulic shop that works on heavy equipment rams like dozers and backhoes, 
etc. Chesapeake Rigging wanted $800. I could have bought a new system for 
another $200.

Instead I took it to a shop and it cost me less than $50 and they bench tested 
my equipment to 4000# for 30 min to prove it was tight. The guy said the 
O-rings cost him 25 to 50 cents each. That was ten years ago and it 
occassionaly weeps some oil but it holds pressure for weeks on end.


> On June 26, 2018 at 4:56 PM Francois Rivard via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Dennis, 
> 
> You could also call Rick Zern 850.261.4129 ( http://zernrigging.com)
> 
> Great guy, he's definitely Navtec certified some say he's the best Navtec 
> guy in the Southeast. 
> 
> He's in Pensacola, your neck of the woods. Heck, you could drive your 
> adjuster over in a pinch... 
> 
> Good luck on the project.  
> 
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
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> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
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> 
> 
 
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Re: Stus-List Sling labels

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Our Club's logo is a stylised sail. A small, black version of it is used as 
sling markers (the markers are regularly distributed during our Club's Haul out 
and Launch). Here is an example:  
https://1drv.ms/u/s!At7BtDHoAfRtgaMX-zrY77AxubHvtg. Most apply it to the 
topsides, right under the rub rail. In your case that might not work, since it 
would have to be applied to your painted topsides.

A small piece of masking or electrical tape would also work.

For a while I was using a small piece of yarn attached to the toe rail. It 
worked quite well (much longer than expected).

Marek



Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.


 Original message 
From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
Date: 2018-06-26 21:13 (GMT+00:00)
To: CnClist 
Cc: "Dennis C." 
Subject: Stus-List Sling labels

Just curious, what do listers use for labels to locate where the Travelift 
slings go?  Right now, I just wrap some yellow tape on the toe rail and then 
remove it after splash.

I've seen all manner of permanent labels. I thought about drilling and tapping 
the toe rail for a set of these but the first time a snatch block hits 
it.well.  And I think they are too long to fit between the holes.

http://www.buckwoodcraft.com/boat-sling-labels.html

I'd prefer not to put a decal on the paint.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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