Re: Stus-List List of 30-1s

[Dennis Peters via CnC-List]

Hi,

I didn’t see the original post, so I’m not sure what the question is, but I 
have SeaPlusPlus 1980 30-1 #609. 

If you’re just looking for a list of boats, the database is great: 
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/new_owners/index2.php 


Cheers,
Dennis

Dennis Peters
dennis.k.pet...@gmail.com



> On Nov 15, 2018, at 11:08, Gary Nylander via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Penniless is 1980 and hull #593
> Gary
>  
> From: CnC-List  > On Behalf Of Ronald B. Frerker via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, August 19, 2016 3:25 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Ronald B. Frerker mailto:rbfrer...@yahoo.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List List of 30-1s
>  
> Wild Cheri was built in 4/73 and is hull number 166.
> Ron
> STL
>  
>  
> 
> From: Nate Flesness via CnC-List  >
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> 
> Cc: Nate Flesness mailto:nateflesn...@gmail.com>>
> Sent: Thursday, August 18, 2016 2:11 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List List of 30-1s
>  
> Sarah Jean (1980 30-1) is hull number 602.
>  
> Nate
>  
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Stus-List C 35 mkiii mainsheet traveler

[robert via CnC-List]

Steve:
Is your traveler on the cabin top in front of the companionway? Main 
sheet runs forward to the mast and then back to a winch and cleat cabin 
topnext to companionway?


That's how my 32 was rigged.totally useless for me to single hand 
sail which is what I do mostly.


I can try to describe what I did but I might have a few pictures on an 
old laptop (that I haven't fired up in a while but should work) that 
would be much better than me describing.


I can now trim my main sheet from behind the wheel..I bought a new 
main sheet spliced to a fiddle block with cam cleat and becket (also new 
purchase) one new double block and a few blocks I already had.


The fiddle block attaches to the centre of the traveler with the main 
through the various blocks back to the helsman.and because the 
height of the main sheet is higher to hold, it locks and unlocks in the 
can cleat easily.


I will try get find the pics.can't take any now...boat is put away 
for the winter.


Rob

On 2018-11-15 5:58 p.m., steve dewar via CnC-List wrote:

Robert, that is exactly what I am looking for. Any assistance would be super!
Thanks
Steve

Sent from my iPad





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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Bill:  What’s the issue with stainless tanks?

From: coltrek--- via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2018 11:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: colt...@verizon.net 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

In my opinion, aluminum is one of the worst materials for a fuel tank. I have 
fabricated  stainless steel tanks many years ago, even though I told them that 
I didn't advise it, that they should get a plastic tank. A couple years ago my 
buddy had me (made me ) repair his aluminum tank against my suggestion, and 
within the year, it was leaking in an entirely different place. At which point 
he grudgingly replaced it with a plastic tank. I removed my own steel tank 
several years ago, that was not leaking, and replaced it with a plastic tank.
My unsolicited advice, is that if you have an opportunity to remove an aluminum 
tank, is to distance yourself as far as possible from it and don't look back.  
The labor in removing and reinstalling is worth much more than the cost of a 
new plastic tank.

Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie PA






On Thursday, November 15, 2018 robert via CnC-List  
wrote:


Dito herelast Fall removed my 33 year old aluminum tank because of a few 
pin hole leaks.had a new bottom welded on.

Took approx 14 gals of diesel from the tank into 5 gal container(s)the last 
couple of gallons of the diesel looked more like a 'diluted mud'..very 
brown in colornot exactly sure what the bottom looked likethe machine 
shop that did the repair pressure washedthey told me that even after the 
pressure wash, they still wait a few days before doing the actual repair in 
order to wait and be sure all the fuel vapors are gone so as to not cause an 
explosion/fire when the welding begins.

I wasn't having engine problems with the fuel at that point but from what I 
observed coming out from the tank, it was only a matter of time.  And remember, 
the fuel pickup line/filter draws from the bottom of the tank.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32- #277
Halifax, N.S. 


Chapter two,  
  This year my 29 year old OEM aluminum fuel tank developed pin holes and red 
liquid leaked onto my freshly painted bilge.  I bought a new 30 gallon plastic 
tank and new fuel lines and will install those over the coming winter.  This 
will give the boat enough range to run from Cape May to Block Island and should 
be good for another 30 plus years.





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Re: Stus-List C 35 mkiii mainsheet traveler

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Did i send u pics of my 35 mkii main sheet setup. Not bad right Robert

On Thu, Nov 15, 2018 at 5:59 PM steve dewar via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Robert, that is exactly what I am looking for. Any assistance would be
> super!
> Thanks
> Steve
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Nov 14, 2018, at 21:05, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> >
> > Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> >cnc-list@cnc-list.com
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> >
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> >
> > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> > than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> > Today's Topics:
> >
> >   1.  C 35 mkiii mainsheet traveler (robert)
> >   2.  Line prices (Tom Buscaglia)
> >   3. Re:  Dirty fuel? (Dennis Peters)
> >   4. Re:  Dirty fuel? (Fred Hazzard)
> >   5. Re:  [EXTERNAL]Dirty fuel? (Marek Dziedzic)
> >   6. Re:  someone step up, we are down to the scrap value of the
> >  keel! (Chuck S)
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Top your fuel tank up often keep it nesr full if you can and dont mind the
extra weight. Fill from a jerry can through a filter. Buy you fuel from a
busy station which will usually mean they have fresh fuel in their tanks.
Still you may have troubles with water and MBG. Use fuel additives
Stanadyne for diesels marvel mystery oil for gad A4

On Thu, Nov 15, 2018 at 5:08 PM Robbie Epstein via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Sludge in the tank definitely has to go, but I had an interesting
> situation one time that may be relevant to the engine stopping problem.
>
> One time while motor sailing on a starboard tack, trying to get back to
> port before a nasty squall line came in, the engine quit without warning.
> I had a quarter of a tank of fuel, but the fuel lines had to be bled to get
> it started again.  I went through all the gyrations of fuel filter changes,
> looking for leaks, etc.  It turned out that the fuel dip tube in the tank
> is located close to the starboard side and only goes down to about an inch
> from the bottom of the tank.  With the boat heeled over at least 20 degrees
> on a starboard tack and only a quarter of a tank of fuel, with the fuel
> sloshing around, the end of the dip tube was exposed often enough for air
> bubbles to enter the fuel lines causing an air lock.  There are probably a
> number of elegant solutions to this issue, but I never let the tank get
> below 1/2 full now and have never had the problem since.
>
> Robbie Epstein
> C 40-2 TMDK
> Thorfinn
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
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>
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Stus-List C 35 mkiii mainsheet traveler

[steve dewar via CnC-List]

Robert, that is exactly what I am looking for. Any assistance would be super!
Thanks
Steve

Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 14, 2018, at 21:05, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1.  C 35 mkiii mainsheet traveler (robert)
>   2.  Line prices (Tom Buscaglia)
>   3. Re:  Dirty fuel? (Dennis Peters)
>   4. Re:  Dirty fuel? (Fred Hazzard)
>   5. Re:  [EXTERNAL]Dirty fuel? (Marek Dziedzic)
>   6. Re:  someone step up, we are down to the scrap value of the
>  keel! (Chuck S)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Robbie Epstein via CnC-List]

Sludge in the tank definitely has to go, but I had an interesting situation one 
time that may be relevant to the engine stopping problem.

One time while motor sailing on a starboard tack, trying to get back to port 
before a nasty squall line came in, the engine quit without warning.  I had a 
quarter of a tank of fuel, but the fuel lines had to be bled to get it started 
again.  I went through all the gyrations of fuel filter changes, looking for 
leaks, etc.  It turned out that the fuel dip tube in the tank is located close 
to the starboard side and only goes down to about an inch from the bottom of 
the tank.  With the boat heeled over at least 20 degrees on a starboard tack 
and only a quarter of a tank of fuel, with the fuel sloshing around, the end of 
the dip tube was exposed often enough for air bubbles to enter the fuel lines 
causing an air lock.  There are probably a number of elegant solutions to this 
issue, but I never let the tank get below 1/2 full now and have never had the 
problem since.  

Robbie Epstein 
C 40-2 TMDK
Thorfinn

Sent from my iPad

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Re: Stus-List Now Fuel Tank

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

Monel is probably the best way to go--but it will cost you. 


My mechanic was surprised I went with a new tank (he did the tank repair) since 
he thought it would be a ~ $2000 for a new monel tank.


He was even more surprised when I told him it was $450 for a custom fitted 
aluminum tank--which he installed without difficulty as it was a 
perfect copy, except for the weight.


Charlie Nelson


cenel...@aol.com




-Original Message-
From: dwight veinot via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: dwight veinot 
Sent: Thu, Nov 15, 2018 2:48 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Now Fuel Tank



Cant beat monel tanks the company used in the early 70’s. Aluminum tanks can 
have exfoliation corosion issues in a marine environment happens to the insides 
of aluminum aqualung divers tanks a lot








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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Dirty fuel?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Bugs in fuel tanks adapt they can learn to live on biocides like biobor jf

On Thu, Nov 15, 2018 at 3:45 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If magnets can kill algae, then no one would survive an MRI.
>
> Just sayin……..
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Now Fuel Tank

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Cant beat monel tanks the company used in the early 70’s. Aluminum tanks
can have exfoliation corosion issues in a marine environment happens to the
insides of aluminum aqualung divers tanks a lot

On Thu, Nov 15, 2018 at 2:54 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My 24 yr old Alum tank came with the boat. On delivery from NC to CRW in
> April 2018, tank developed several leaks at bottom forward edge where it
> sat in some brackish water, probably for years. Crew made temp repairs
> after tank removal with a black epoxy made for such repairs. All fine but I
> considered I needed a new tank.
> I Found a local welding shop whose specialty was custom alum cooking
> grills (Grillmaster). They said they would build an exact copy, using
> existing fittings, out of 1/8” alum for ~$400-450. Only requirement was
> that I provide the old tank to them to duplicate both the shape and the
> fitting placement and orientation.
> About 6 weeks later, it was ready and except for being slightly heavier
> (orig tank made in Canada with slightly thinner alum), it was a perfect
> copy.
> Cost $450 plus tax.
> Tank will be someone else’s problem if this thicker tank lasts 22 yrs!
>
> Charlie Nelson
> 1995 C 36XL/kcb
> Water Phantom
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
>
> On Thursday, November 15, 2018, robert via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>
>
> When I took my aluminum fuel tank out, I thought about replacing it with a
> plastic tank.   I could have bought a Moeller the exact size as mine from a
> local company here, Stright Mackay, for 1/2 the cost of the rebuild I had
> done to the old tank. While the new plastic tank was the same size as the
> old one, it did not have the five (5) holes in it to accommodate the 5
> attachments or did not have the fittings that the plastic tank would
> accept. Maybe some of the old fittings could have been usedthe infill
> connector, definitely not.  And even if the new Moeller tank had fittings,
> they probably would not be in the exact position on the top to accept the
> hoses.unless you are going to replace all the hosesand there you
> have another many hours of labor and costs. Now, here is where the big
> question comes into playsince I am a DIY guy, where possible, do I go
> to the extra effort to make the new plastic tank fit the 5 holes needed
> (fuel infill, fuel line to engine, fuel return line to engine, vent, fuel
> gauge) or pay more to have the old tank rebuilt. I opted to have the bottom
> cut out of the old tank, a whole new bottom welded on and at the same time,
> I had the machine shop cut approx 1 inch from the depth of the tank to make
> getting back in through the lazarette easy.getting it out because of
> the fill hose nozzle was a problem. If the old bottom lasted 33 years
> before leaking, the new tank bottom should see me out and become someone
> elses  problem some day. Rob Abbott AZURA C 32 - #227 Halifax, N.S.
> ___ Thanks everyone for
> supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly
> appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send
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> ___
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Dirty fuel?

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

If magnets can kill algae, then no one would survive an MRI.
Just sayin……..

Joe
Coquina
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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Just a reminder that aluminum fuel tanks last 20 to 30 years.  Plastic tanks 
are not likely to last 10 to 15 years.  Everyone seems to be down on aluminum 
because our boats are getting old but aluminum served its purpose well.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 

> On Nov 15, 2018, at 2:16 PM, coltrek--- via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I got mine from Kracor, almost a perfect fit. 
> You have to do research, or pay more for custom built -
> 
> Bill Coleman 
> C 39
> 
> 
> 
> On Thursday, November 15, 2018 Richard Bush  wrote:
> 
> Bill, I like your thoughts on the plastic tanks...are these something readily 
> available in standard sizes or do they have to be individually 
> fabricated?...either way, what/where would you recommend for sourcing one? 
> Thanks 
> 
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37; Ohio River, Mile 596;
> 
> Richard N. Bush 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: coltrek--- via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: colt...@verizon.net 
> Sent: Thu, Nov 15, 2018 11:39 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?
> 
> In my opinion, aluminum is one of the worst materials for a fuel tank. I have 
> fabricated  stainless steel tanks many years ago, even though I told them 
> that I didn't advise it, that they should get a plastic tank. A couple years 
> ago my buddy had me (made me ) repair his aluminum tank against my 
> suggestion, and within the year, it was leaking in an entirely different 
> place. At which point he grudgingly replaced it with a plastic tank. I 
> removed my own steel tank several years ago, that was not leaking, and 
> replaced it with a plastic tank.
> My unsolicited advice, is that if you have an opportunity to remove an 
> aluminum tank, is to distance yourself as far as possible from it and don't 
> look back.  The labor in removing and reinstalling is worth much more than 
> the cost of a new plastic tank.
> Bill Coleman
> C 39 Erie PA
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Dirty fuel?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Quitting under steaming probaly a dirty fuel filter. Mine would idle fine
for a long time buy fail when i kicked her in gear. Let sit and she would
restart as normal and someyimes take me a little distance under power.
Change those fuel filters i expect your fuel pump is good. The primary
filter lets bigger particles thru than the secondary filter. The black
stuff in the bottom of your fuel tank is likely compost of particles too
small to be trapped by your primary so it may look clean but the particles
may not be small enough to pass your secondary filter. Change both filters
and if you can see and cause that stuff in you tank to move then you might
be able to get most of it out. That would be a bonus. Otherwise carry extra
filters and learn how to do the change fast

On Wed, Nov 14, 2018 at 9:11 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If you have a problem already, the biocide is a bit too late. It is a
> prevention, not a cure.
>
> Also, it seems that most water that gets inside the tank is either from
> the dirty fuel or from the water ingress through the vent or fill tube (the
> O-ring on the filler cap is usually gone).
>
> Marek
>
> 1994 C270 "Legato"
> Ottawa, ON
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Neil E.
> Andersen via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 14:52
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Neil E. Andersen 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Dirty fuel?
>
> I would also suggest you put in a good Biocide...
>
> Neil Andersen
> 1982 C 32 - FoxFire
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com
> +++
> Save money and the environment.
> Use Century Gothic font and save 30% of your ink
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Della Barba,
> Joe via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 2:30 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Dirty fuel?
>
> Get a vacuum gauge! I have found that to be an invaluable tool to diagnose
> fuel system issues.
> Examples here:
>
> https://eur01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FRacor-30-0HG-Vacuum-Diesel-Fuel-Filter-Restriction-data=02%7C01%7C%7C7e408f2d76d74625eb5608d64a6ab665%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636778219513072235sdata=mxutBdN96GT%2FSc0%2BbzXOqf%2BoJOMrBASiSxkrw1Yo5FM%3Dreserved=0
>
> Gauge-1-8-NPT-Threaded-Back/221688849829?hash=item339daf65a5:g:9LwAAOSwkxRaw
> 
> Eho:sc:USPSFirstClass!21235!US!-1:rk:2:pf:0
>
>
> https://eur01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FVacuum-Gauge-Kit-Panel-Mount%2Fdp%2FB078H5994K%2Fref%3Dsr_1_8data=02%7C01%7C%7C7e408f2d76d74625eb5608d64a6ab665%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636778219513072235sdata=isdxMgGdAwQCoxe07kGm3dUHxqCE5XToumHcmi7ZGDY%3Dreserved=0
> ?ie=UTF8=1542223695=8-8=racor+gauge
> 
>
>
> https://eur01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FHFS-Utility-Vacuum-Pressure-Blk-Steel%2Fdp%2FB00VQSP2XA%2Frdata=02%7C01%7C%7C7e408f2d76d74625eb5608d64a6ab665%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636778219513072235sdata=4s%2FbuZi%2FzmZkvTfASq%2Fv991l3z1K9fAPn91uEq0UU9U%3Dreserved=0
> ef=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8=1542223740=8-4=vacuum+gauge
> 
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina
> C 35 MK I
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of DON
> JONSSON via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 2:12 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: DON JONSSON 
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Dirty fuel?
>
> The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the marina.
> Got it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.  Repeat a few
> times.  We thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel gauge not being
> configured correctly and had run out of 

Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[coltrek--- via CnC-List]

I got mine from Kracor, almost a perfect fit. 
You have to do research, or pay more for custom built -

Bill Coleman 
C 39
On Thursday, November 15, 2018 Richard Bush  wrote:
 Bill, I like your thoughts on the plastic tanks...are these something readily 
available in standard sizes or do they have to be individually 
fabricated?...either way, what/where would you recommend for sourcing one? 
Thanks 
 
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37; Ohio River, Mile 596;

Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: coltrek--- via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: colt...@verizon.net 
Sent: Thu, Nov 15, 2018 11:39 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

In my opinion, aluminum is one of the worst materials for a fuel tank. I have 
fabricated  stainless steel tanks many years ago, even though I told them that 
I didn't advise it, that they should get a plastic tank. A couple years ago my 
buddy had me (made me ) repair his aluminum tank against my suggestion, and 
within the year, it was leaking in an entirely different place. At which point 
he grudgingly replaced it with a plastic tank. I removed my own steel tank 
several years ago, that was not leaking, and replaced it with a plastic tank.
My unsolicited advice, is that if you have an opportunity to remove an aluminum 
tank, is to distance yourself as far as possible from it and don't look back.  
The labor in removing and reinstalling is worth much more than the cost of a 
new plastic tank.Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie PA
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List Now Fuel Tank

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

My 24 yr old Alum tank came with the boat. On delivery from NC to CRW in April 
2018, tank developed several leaks at bottom forward edge where it sat in some 
brackish water, probably for years. Crew made temp repairs after tank removal 
with a black epoxy made for such repairs. All fine but I considered I needed a 
new tank.
I Found a local welding shop whose specialty was custom alum cooking grills 
(Grillmaster). They said they would build an exact copy, using existing 
fittings, out of 1/8” alum for ~$400-450. Only requirement was that I provide 
the old tank to them to duplicate both the shape and the fitting placement and 
orientation. 
About 6 weeks later, it was ready and except for being slightly heavier (orig 
tank made in Canada with slightly thinner alum), it was a perfect copy.
Cost $450 plus tax. 
Tank will be someone else’s problem if this thicker tank lasts 22 yrs! 

Charlie Nelson
1995 C 36XL/kcb
Water Phantom

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com

On Thursday, November 15, 2018, robert via CnC-List  
wrote:

When I took my aluminum fuel tank out, I thought about replacing it with a 
plastic tank.   I could have bought a Moeller the exact size as mine from a 
local company here, Stright Mackay, for 1/2 the cost of the rebuild I had done 
to the old tank. While the new plastic tank was the same size as the old one, 
it did not have the five (5) holes in it to accommodate the 5 attachments or 
did not have the fittings that the plastic tank would accept. Maybe some of the 
old fittings could have been usedthe infill connector, definitely not.  And 
even if the new Moeller tank had fittings, they probably would not be in the 
exact position on the top to accept the hoses.unless you are going to 
replace all the hosesand there you have another many hours of labor and 
costs. Now, here is where the big question comes into playsince I am a DIY 
guy, where possible, do I go to the extra effort to make the new plastic tank 
fit the 5 holes needed (fuel infill, fuel line to engine, fuel return line to 
engine, vent, fuel gauge) or pay more to have the old tank rebuilt. I opted to 
have the bottom cut out of the old tank, a whole new bottom welded on and at 
the same time, I had the machine shop cut approx 1 inch from the depth of the 
tank to make getting back in through the lazarette easy.getting it out 
because of the fill hose nozzle was a problem. If the old bottom lasted 33 
years before leaking, the new tank bottom  should see me out and become someone 
elses  problem some day. Rob Abbott AZURA C 32 - #227 Halifax, N.S. 
___ Thanks everyone for supporting 
this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. 
If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Now Fuel Tank

[robert via CnC-List]

When I took my aluminum fuel tank out, I thought about replacing it with 
a plastic tank.   I could have bought a Moeller the exact size as mine 
from a local company here, Stright Mackay, for 1/2 the cost of the 
rebuild I had done to the old tank.


While the new plastic tank was the same size as the old one, it did not 
have the five (5) holes in it to accommodate the 5 attachments or did 
not have the fittings that the plastic tank would accept. Maybe some of 
the old fittings could have been usedthe infill connector, 
definitely not.  And even if the new Moeller tank had fittings, they 
probably would not be in the exact position on the top to accept the 
hoses.unless you are going to replace all the hosesand there you 
have another many hours of labor and costs.


Now, here is where the big question comes into playsince I am a DIY 
guy, where possible, do I go to the extra effort to make the new plastic 
tank fit the 5 holes needed (fuel infill, fuel line to engine, fuel 
return line to engine, vent, fuel gauge) or pay more to have the old 
tank rebuilt.


I opted to have the bottom cut out of the old tank, a whole new bottom 
welded on and at the same time, I had the machine shop cut approx 1 inch 
from the depth of the tank to make getting back in through the lazarette 
easy.getting it out because of the fill hose nozzle was a problem.


If the old bottom lasted 33 years before leaking, the new tank bottom 
should see me out and become someone elses  problem some day.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #227
Halifax, N.S.



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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I've posted this before but here it is again.  I installed an Algae-X fuel
conditioner (I think now known as AXI) as part of Touche's diesel repower
in 2003.  I have used NO additives and have had NO fuel issues since.
Having said that, Touche' has always been a fairly active boat with around
1400 hours on the diesel since the repower.  That's about 100 hours per
year or 60 gallons of diesel annually.  With an 18 gallon tank, that's a
turnover of about 3.5 tanks a year.

Here's a picture of Touche's Racor 500 series fuel filter with vacuum gauge
and Algae-X fuel conditioner installed between the tank and filter.  It's
hard piped into the filter inlet just visible to the right of the filter.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsdVl2cnd3NEJrWG8

Here's a link to info on the fuel conditioner.

http://www.diesel-fuels.com/algae-x/magnetic-fuel-conditioning.php

http://www.downwindmarine.com/Algae-X-Magnetic-Fuel-Conditioners-LG-X-Series-p-91002268.html

I know some think the fuel conditioner is smoke and mirrors or a close
cousin of the food preservation pyramid.  (
http://www.discovery.com/tv-shows/mythbusters/mythbusters-database/pyramids-and-fresh-food/).
All I can say is I haven't had any fuel issues with one installed.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Jim Eagon via CnC-List]

I have had similar problems with "Trinity's" (84 C 37) fuel system. She
still has her original fuel tank and engine.
She quit on me several times at sea, necessitating repairs en route.

The culprit? Slime and dirt in the tank. Polishing and additives did not
help, as chunks of slime would dislodge and then plug the intake tube
screen.
I finally had to pull the tank, have it cleaned and pressure tested. All is
good now, but I can't help be think I should eventually replace it with a
plastic one.

I also replaced the pick-up tube and fuel gauge sender, since I didn't want
to have those 30+ year-old items fail later.

Fair winds and following seas!

Jim Eagon
"Trinity"
'84 C 37


On Wed, Nov 14, 2018 at 11:13 AM DON JONSSON via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the marina.
> Got it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.  Repeat a few
> times.  We thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel gauge not being
> configured correctly and had run out of diesel.  Second culprit may be
> dirty fuel as had been sailing with very little fuel in the tank and that
> could stir things up.
>
> So the next day we began the investigation.
>
> We hadn't run out of diesel and there is about 1/4 of a tank.  Checked the
> primary filter which is new and it doesn't look too bad.  Started the
> engine again and it ran and then quit a couple of times.  Trying again we
> rev'd it hard just before it could die and it kept going even when we put
> it back to idle.  Now it seems to run fine.  But it doesn't instil
> confidence.
>
> In the C fuel tank you can take out the gauge and you have a little (2
> inch?) hole you can see into the tank.  We put a camera in there and can
> see the bottom of the tank is about 50% covered with black.  The rest
> shines.  If you swirl a stick in there the black sediment is definitely
> light and moves.
>
> So perhaps it is the fuel filters.  The secondary filter is not one you
> can look into so it could be there.  Sailing the boat with little fuel in a
> following sea would definitely stir things up.  But why is the engine
> running well now if it is a plugged filter?  Why didn't it require bleeding?
>
> We got a quote to polish the fuel tank and it is decidedly not cheap.  In
> fact I'd go all the way to damned expensive.
>
> So the questions:
>
> 1. Has anyone else had a similar experience and was it the fuel filters?
> We never had to bleed the lines and the engine now runs fine.
>
> 2. Does anyone have another idea as to what it could be?  The engine only
> has 500 hours on it and starts and runs like a top (if you forgive the two
> alternators we have already gone through.  Manufacturing fault on both
> claimed by alternator repair people.)
>
> 3. Can someone give advice on how to clean the fuel.  We have access in
> the front of the tank but not behind the baffle which is about in the
> middle (I think).  The hole is small to options seem limited.   Can you
> dissolve the sediment?   How did you flush it all out?
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> Don Jonsson
> Andante, C 34
> Victoria
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I got mine from an outfit in New Jersey. Cheaper than Amazon, but I had to pay 
shipping. Ended up about the same. Keep the little guys in business.

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Richard Bush via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2018 11:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard Bush 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

 

Bill, I like your thoughts on the plastic tanks...are these something readily 
available in standard sizes or do they have to be individually 
fabricated?...either way, what/where would you recommend for sourcing one? 
Thanks 

 

Richard

s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37; Ohio River, Mile 596;

 

Richard N. Bush 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: coltrek--- via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: colt...@verizon.net   mailto:colt...@verizon.net> >
Sent: Thu, Nov 15, 2018 11:39 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

In my opinion, aluminum is one of the worst materials for a fuel tank. I have 
fabricated  stainless steel tanks many years ago, even though I told them that 
I didn't advise it, that they should get a plastic tank. A couple years ago my 
buddy had me (made me ) repair his aluminum tank against my suggestion, and 
within the year, it was leaking in an entirely different place. At which point 
he grudgingly replaced it with a plastic tank. I removed my own steel tank 
several years ago, that was not leaking, and replaced it with a plastic tank.
My unsolicited advice, is that if you have an opportunity to remove an aluminum 
tank, is to distance yourself as far as possible from it and don't look back.  
The labor in removing and reinstalling is worth much more than the cost of a 
new plastic tank.

Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie PA

  _  


Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Went from leaky aluminum to slightly smaller Moeller plastic. I’m pleased.

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Edward Levert via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2018 12:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edward Levert 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

 

Richard:

 

Measure your existing tank. Then check the Moeller web site for a compatible 
plastic tank. USCG approved. Ordered from Amazon. Fit like a glove.

 

Ed Levert 

C 34 Briar Patch

New Orleans

Sent from my iPhone


On Nov 15, 2018, at 10:57 AM, Richard Bush via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Bill, I like your thoughts on the plastic tanks...are these something readily 
available in standard sizes or do they have to be individually 
fabricated?...either way, what/where would you recommend for sourcing one? 
Thanks 

 

Richard

s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37; Ohio River, Mile 596;

 

Richard N. Bush 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Jim Brown via CnC-List]

We had something similar happen to us while leaving the marina in False
Creek and managed to sail back to the dock. In investigating the problem, it
appears that it may have been water in the fuel but decided it would be a
good time to clean out the tank and lines. We removed the fuel tank and
cleaned it out best we could by swirling small amounts of fresh fuel around
the tank and dumping it - repeated several times until appeared clean.
Changed out the fuel hoses and renewed the "O" ring on the fuel intake plug
on deck. Old sea water cooled Yanmar running just fine.

Jim Brown
"Flash Over", C 34
Vancouver, B.C.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of DON
JONSSON via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 11:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DON JONSSON
Subject: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the marina.
Got it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.  Repeat a few
times.  We thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel gauge not being
configured correctly and had run out of diesel.  Second culprit may be dirty
fuel as had been sailing with very little fuel in the tank and that could
stir things up.

So the next day we began the investigation.

We hadn't run out of diesel and there is about 1/4 of a tank.  Checked the
primary filter which is new and it doesn't look too bad.  Started the engine
again and it ran and then quit a couple of times.  Trying again we rev'd it
hard just before it could die and it kept going even when we put it back to
idle.  Now it seems to run fine.  But it doesn't instil confidence.  

In the C fuel tank you can take out the gauge and you have a little (2
inch?) hole you can see into the tank.  We put a camera in there and can see
the bottom of the tank is about 50% covered with black.  The rest shines.
If you swirl a stick in there the black sediment is definitely light and
moves.

So perhaps it is the fuel filters.  The secondary filter is not one you can
look into so it could be there.  Sailing the boat with little fuel in a
following sea would definitely stir things up.  But why is the engine
running well now if it is a plugged filter?  Why didn't it require bleeding?

We got a quote to polish the fuel tank and it is decidedly not cheap.  In
fact I'd go all the way to damned expensive.

So the questions:

1. Has anyone else had a similar experience and was it the fuel filters?  We
never had to bleed the lines and the engine now runs fine.

2. Does anyone have another idea as to what it could be?  The engine only
has 500 hours on it and starts and runs like a top (if you forgive the two
alternators we have already gone through.  Manufacturing fault on both
claimed by alternator repair people.)

3. Can someone give advice on how to clean the fuel.  We have access in the
front of the tank but not behind the baffle which is about in the middle (I
think).  The hole is small to options seem limited.   Can you dissolve the
sediment?   How did you flush it all out?  

Thanks for any help.

Don Jonsson
Andante, C 34
Victoria




Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Make sure you measure the overhead clearance. You may need to put an elbow on 
the fill nozzle. 

Some plastic tanks have angled fill nozzles. 

All things to look at. 

I heartily support switching to plastic tanks IF your existing tank is not 
Monel. If you have a Monel tank, keep it. 

Excellent time to replace the fill hose also. 

Dennis C. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 15, 2018, at 11:25 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Richard:
> 
> Measure your existing tank. Then check the Moeller web site for a compatible 
> plastic tank. USCG approved. Ordered from Amazon. Fit like a glove.
> 
> Ed Levert 
> C 34 Briar Patch
> New Orleans
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Nov 15, 2018, at 10:57 AM, Richard Bush via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Bill, I like your thoughts on the plastic tanks...are these something 
>> readily available in standard sizes or do they have to be individually 
>> fabricated?...either way, what/where would you recommend for sourcing one? 
>> Thanks 
>> 
>> Richard
>> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37; Ohio River, Mile 596;
>> 
>> Richard N. Bush 
>> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
>> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Richard:

Measure your existing tank. Then check the Moeller web site for a compatible 
plastic tank. USCG approved. Ordered from Amazon. Fit like a glove.

Ed Levert 
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 15, 2018, at 10:57 AM, Richard Bush via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Bill, I like your thoughts on the plastic tanks...are these something readily 
> available in standard sizes or do they have to be individually 
> fabricated?...either way, what/where would you recommend for sourcing one? 
> Thanks 
> 
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37; Ohio River, Mile 596;
> 
> Richard N. Bush 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 Bill, I like your thoughts on the plastic tanks...are these something readily 
available in standard sizes or do they have to be individually 
fabricated?...either way, what/where would you recommend for sourcing one? 
Thanks 
 
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37; Ohio River, Mile 596;

Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: coltrek--- via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: colt...@verizon.net 
Sent: Thu, Nov 15, 2018 11:39 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

In my opinion, aluminum is one of the worst materials for a fuel tank. I have 
fabricated  stainless steel tanks many years ago, even though I told them that 
I didn't advise it, that they should get a plastic tank. A couple years ago my 
buddy had me (made me ) repair his aluminum tank against my suggestion, and 
within the year, it was leaking in an entirely different place. At which point 
he grudgingly replaced it with a plastic tank. I removed my own steel tank 
several years ago, that was not leaking, and replaced it with a plastic tank.
My unsolicited advice, is that if you have an opportunity to remove an aluminum 
tank, is to distance yourself as far as possible from it and don't look back.  
The labor in removing and reinstalling is worth much more than the cost of a 
new plastic tank.Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie PA
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[coltrek--- via CnC-List]

In my opinion, aluminum is one of the worst materials for a fuel tank. I have 
fabricated  stainless steel tanks many years ago, even though I told them that 
I didn't advise it, that they should get a plastic tank. A couple years ago my 
buddy had me (made me ) repair his aluminum tank against my suggestion, and 
within the year, it was leaking in an entirely different place. At which point 
he grudgingly replaced it with a plastic tank. I removed my own steel tank 
several years ago, that was not leaking, and replaced it with a plastic tank.
My unsolicited advice, is that if you have an opportunity to remove an aluminum 
tank, is to distance yourself as far as possible from it and don't look back.  
The labor in removing and reinstalling is worth much more than the cost of a 
new plastic tank.

Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie PA
On Thursday, November 15, 2018 robert via CnC-List  
wrote:
 Dito herelast Fall removed my 33 year old aluminum tank because of a few 
pin hole leaks.had a new bottom welded on.
 
 Took approx 14 gals of diesel from the tank into 5 gal container(s)the 
last couple of gallons of the diesel looked more like a 'diluted mud'..very 
brown in colornot exactly sure what the bottom looked likethe machine 
shop that did the repair pressure washedthey told me that even after the 
pressure wash, they still wait a few days before doing the actual repair in 
order to wait and be sure all the fuel vapors are gone so as to not cause an 
explosion/fire when the welding begins.
 
 I wasn't having engine problems with the fuel at that point but from what I 
observed coming out from the tank, it was only a matter of time.  And remember, 
the fuel pickup line/filter draws from the bottom of the tank.
 
 Rob Abbott
 AZURA
 C 32- #277
 Halifax, N.S.
 
 Chapter two,  
 
This year my 29 year old OEM aluminum fuel tank developed pin holes and red 
liquid leaked onto my freshly painted bilge.  I bought a new 30 gallon plastic 
tank and new fuel lines and will install those over the coming winter.  This 
will give the boat enough range to run from Cape May to Block Island and should 
be good for another 30 plus years.
 
 
 
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Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[robert via CnC-List]

Dito herelast Fall removed my 33 year old aluminum tank because of a 
few pin hole leaks.had a new bottom welded on.


Took approx 14 gals of diesel from the tank into 5 gal 
container(s)the last couple of gallons of the diesel looked more 
like a 'diluted mud'..very brown in colornot exactly sure what 
the bottom looked likethe machine shop that did the repair pressure 
washedthey told me that even after the pressure wash, they still 
wait a few days before doing the actual repair in order to wait and be 
sure all the fuel vapors are gone so as to not cause an explosion/fire 
when the welding begins.


I wasn't having engine problems with the fuel at that point but from 
what I observed coming out from the tank, it was only a matter of time.  
And remember, the fuel pickup line/filter draws from the bottom of the tank.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32- #277
Halifax, N.S.

Chapter two,


This year my 29 year old OEM aluminum fuel tank developed pin holes 
and red liquid leaked onto my freshly painted bilge.  I bought a new 
30 gallon plastic tank and new fuel lines and will install those over 
the coming winter.  This will give the boat enough range to run from 
Cape May to Block Island and should be good for another 30 plus years.





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Stus-List Dirty Fuel/Vac gauge

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

Racor sells a vacuum gauge which can be mounted in place of the T-handle on the 
top plate of some of their filter housings. 

If anyone adds a gauge there, be VERY careful not to tighten it (or the T 
handle for that matter) too much. Racor warns about this as well. 

It took several trips by my diesel mechanic to realize that overtightening the 
T or gauge can deform the top plate temporarily or permanently which will allow 
air to be sucked in to the Racor under normal fuel system vacuum via the O-ring 
at the top plate seal. 

In my case the deformation was only noticed when he compared my very slightly 
deformed plate to a new one—it was not noticeable to the naked eye. 

Charlie Nelson
1995 C XL/kcb
Water Phantom


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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

+1 on the Starbrite fuel tank cleaner.Bruce Whitmore 1994 C 37/40+ 
"Astralis"Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
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Re: Stus-List List of 30-1s

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Penniless is 1980 and hull #593

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Ronald B. Frerker 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 19, 2016 3:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
Subject: Re: Stus-List List of 30-1s

 

Wild Cheri was built in 4/73 and is hull number 166.

Ron

STL

 

 

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From: Nate Flesness via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com  " 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Cc: Nate Flesness mailto:nateflesn...@gmail.com> >
Sent: Thursday, August 18, 2016 2:11 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List List of 30-1s

 

Sarah Jean (1980 30-1) is hull number 602.

 

Nate

 

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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Don,

Had this issue on our 33, culprit was  bottom crud getting stirred up and 
plugging the screen on the fuel pickup. We polished the fuel a couple of times 
and the issue would still occur occasionally - solution was to remove the 
screen on the fuel pickup, I actually replaced the pickup tube. I also used the 
Starbright Diesel tank cleaner and their fuel conditioner, and have had no 
issues since - also my primary filter is clean, very little crap in the fuel. I 
also put a small polisher system in to the boat as the tank had holes for 2 
extra pickup/returns.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of DON JONSSON via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 2:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DON JONSSON 
Subject: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the marina.  Got 
it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.  Repeat a few times.  
We thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel gauge not being configured 
correctly and had run out of diesel.  Second culprit may be dirty fuel as had 
been sailing with very little fuel in the tank and that could stir things up.

So the next day we began the investigation.

We hadn't run out of diesel and there is about 1/4 of a tank.  Checked the 
primary filter which is new and it doesn't look too bad.  Started the engine 
again and it ran and then quit a couple of times.  Trying again we rev'd it 
hard just before it could die and it kept going even when we put it back to 
idle.  Now it seems to run fine.  But it doesn't instil confidence.  

In the C fuel tank you can take out the gauge and you have a little (2 inch?) 
hole you can see into the tank.  We put a camera in there and can see the 
bottom of the tank is about 50% covered with black.  The rest shines.  If you 
swirl a stick in there the black sediment is definitely light and moves.

So perhaps it is the fuel filters.  The secondary filter is not one you can 
look into so it could be there.  Sailing the boat with little fuel in a 
following sea would definitely stir things up.  But why is the engine running 
well now if it is a plugged filter?  Why didn't it require bleeding?

We got a quote to polish the fuel tank and it is decidedly not cheap.  In fact 
I'd go all the way to damned expensive.

So the questions:

1. Has anyone else had a similar experience and was it the fuel filters?  We 
never had to bleed the lines and the engine now runs fine.

2. Does anyone have another idea as to what it could be?  The engine only has 
500 hours on it and starts and runs like a top (if you forgive the two 
alternators we have already gone through.  Manufacturing fault on both claimed 
by alternator repair people.)

3. Can someone give advice on how to clean the fuel.  We have access in the 
front of the tank but not behind the baffle which is about in the middle (I 
think).  The hole is small to options seem limited.   Can you dissolve the 
sediment?   How did you flush it all out?  

Thanks for any help.

Don Jonsson
Andante, C 34
Victoria




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