Re: Stus-List USCG documentation renewal scam - again

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

WV Senator Robert Byrd was known as "The King" of the earmark.  

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Neil Andersen
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2019 5:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Neil Andersen 
Subject: Re: Stus-List USCG documentation renewal scam - again

 

For the record, the USCG Documentation Center is in West Virginia.  Go
figure...

 

Neil

1982 C&C 32 FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

Neil Andersen

20691 Jamieson Rd

Rock Hall, MD 21661

 

  _  

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > on behalf of Dennis C. via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2019 5:11 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Stus-List USCG documentation renewal scam - again 

 

Well, it's that time of year.  I got my annual notice from "Maritime
Documentation Center", Billings, Montana. 

 

For any owners new to this list, this notice always brings a chuckle to many
of us.  Maritime Documentation Center is NOT the USCG Vessel Documentation
Center (VDC).  It is a private third party entity who will file your renewal
for you for what many of us consider an exorbitant fee.

 

They are always consistent about sending their notice out quite a bit BEFORE
the USCG sends you the official renewal notice.  Simply wait until you
receive the official notice from the USCG VDC and then go online and renew
for $26.  You'll save a few $$$ that you can spend on a new boat toy.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List M-35 electrical fuel lift pump

[Pierre Tremblay via CnC-List]

Hi all,
Lot of good info, as usual here.
I found the correct fuel pump (Facet #40106) in an aircraft online shop for $60 
Can (aircraftspruce.ca).
As for the filters, if one was clogged, I could not have restarted the engine 
and have it run for over an hour. I will change them anyway. I confess to not 
having touched them since I bought the boat (8 years). I have to reposition 
Racor and lift pump anyway, as the PO mechanic changed the location of the 
Racor to just under the exhaust hose, leaving no room to change the filter.
Thanks to all,

Pierre Tremblay

Avalanche #54988

C&C38-3 WK, hull #76
 
  ___

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Stus-List Fuel filter maintenance stories

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I was on the pier couple weeks ago when a neighbor boat owner told me he
was coming in off the lake and couldn't get full rpm on his diesel.  He
asked if I thought it could be the fuel filter being blinded.  I said yes
and asked when was the last time he changed the element.  His reply?  35
years!

I  asked if he knew where it was.  :)  He did.  It was an old Perko 209.
Google it for a picture.

We couldn't remove the screw on top with it in the boat.  The entire unit
twisted and it started coming off the bulkhead.  We removed the unit to the
dock and used a large wrenches to take it apart.  Inside was a ceramic
permanent element.  I was unbelievably plugged up.  About 1/8 inch of crud
all around it.  I told him to go get a can of carburetor cleaner  and clean
it.  Took him a few applications of the cleaner but it cleaned up.
Reinstalled it and diesel runs fine.

On the other hand, I had to change the fuel filter element on Touche' this
weekend on the way to Pensacola.  I have vacuum gauge on it.  It started
easing into the red.  There was only 100 hours on it.  The previous element
lasted over 400 hours.  Very strange.  I had just removed the fuel tank
couple months ago and the fuel looked very clean.

You just don't know.  A batch of bad fuel perhaps?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

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Stus-List Auto pilot advice 34-36R

[James Bibb via CnC-List]

I’ve given up on my Raymarine Ev-100 Tiller pilot.  It the motor drive alway’s 
kicks out and it’s a year old.  I’m assuming it’s under-powered for the size of 
boat I’m asking it to maneuver.  My electronics are B&G Triton2’s….looking at 
the B&G pilot model so that I can utilize my chart plotter, etc.  Any 
experience placing a ram underneath the stern rudder tube deck plate in these 
models?  there’s a location for a pedestal for other models instead of a 
tiller.  I hope to mount it underneath the deck plate but outside of the hull 
with a arm off of the rudder post below the tiller.  I am considering a ram 
style for the movement. 

Thanks 

James Bibb
C&C 34-36R
Darwin’s Folly
___

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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter maintenance stories

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

Speaking of fuel issues, I recently drained my Racor MA 500 (?) fuel/water 
separator and replaced the filter element. The bottom of the bowl had what 
looks like several black 'balls' in it about 1/2" in diameter which do not fit 
thru the drain.  I have no clue what they are but guess maybe some compound 
made from diesel fuel (or contaminants within it). Without disassembling the 
unit, I don't know how to get them out or dissolved or whether I need to. This 
Racor is almost impossible to reach in my engine compartment so whatever I do 
will be a PITA. Any suggestions on what to do--if anything? Charlie NelsonWater 
Phantom1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb  -Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Sent: Wed, May 29, 2019 11:15 am
Subject: Stus-List Fuel filter maintenance stories

I was on the pier couple weeks ago when a neighbor boat owner told me he was 
coming in off the lake and couldn't get full rpm on his diesel.  He asked if I 
thought it could be the fuel filter being blinded.  I said yes and asked when 
was the last time he changed the element.  His reply?  35 years!
I  asked if he knew where it was.  :)  He did.  It was an old Perko 209.  
Google it for a picture.
We couldn't remove the screw on top with it in the boat.  The entire unit 
twisted and it started coming off the bulkhead.  We removed the unit to the 
dock and used a large wrenches to take it apart.  Inside was a ceramic 
permanent element.  I was unbelievably plugged up.  About 1/8 inch of crud all 
around it.  I told him to go get a can of carburetor cleaner  and clean it.  
Took him a few applications of the cleaner but it cleaned up.  Reinstalled it 
and diesel runs fine.
On the other hand, I had to change the fuel filter element on Touche' this 
weekend on the way to Pensacola.  I have vacuum gauge on it.  It started easing 
into the red.  There was only 100 hours on it.  The previous element lasted 
over 400 hours.  Very strange.  I had just removed the fuel tank couple months 
ago and the fuel looked very clean.
You just don't know.  A batch of bad fuel perhaps?
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, 
LA___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter maintenance stories

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

That sounds like the little tar-balls that BP made by the billions in the gulf.

Maybe they will dissolve over time.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charlie 
Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2019 11:59 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel filter maintenance stories

 

Speaking of fuel issues, I recently drained my Racor MA 500 (?) fuel/water 
separator and replaced the filter element. The bottom of the bowl had what 
looks like several black 'balls' in it about 1/2" in diameter which do not fit 
thru the drain. 

 

I have no clue what they are but guess maybe some compound made from diesel 
fuel (or contaminants within it). Without disassembling the unit, I don't know 
how to get them out or dissolved or whether I need to. This Racor is almost 
impossible to reach in my engine compartment so whatever I do will be a PITA.

 

Any suggestions on what to do--if anything?

 

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Sent: Wed, May 29, 2019 11:15 am
Subject: Stus-List Fuel filter maintenance stories

I was on the pier couple weeks ago when a neighbor boat owner told me he was 
coming in off the lake and couldn't get full rpm on his diesel.  He asked if I 
thought it could be the fuel filter being blinded.  I said yes and asked when 
was the last time he changed the element.  His reply?  35 years! 

 

I  asked if he knew where it was.  :)  He did.  It was an old Perko 209.  
Google it for a picture.

 

We couldn't remove the screw on top with it in the boat.  The entire unit 
twisted and it started coming off the bulkhead.  We removed the unit to the 
dock and used a large wrenches to take it apart.  Inside was a ceramic 
permanent element.  I was unbelievably plugged up.  About 1/8 inch of crud all 
around it.  I told him to go get a can of carburetor cleaner  and clean it.  
Took him a few applications of the cleaner but it cleaned up.  Reinstalled it 
and diesel runs fine.

 

On the other hand, I had to change the fuel filter element on Touche' this 
weekend on the way to Pensacola.  I have vacuum gauge on it.  It started easing 
into the red.  There was only 100 hours on it.  The previous element lasted 
over 400 hours.  Very strange.  I had just removed the fuel tank couple months 
ago and the fuel looked very clean.

 

You just don't know.  A batch of bad fuel perhaps?

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Auto pilot advice 34-36R

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Hi James,
My R model was originally built with a wheel and later the PO converted to a 
tiller. That's how she was when I got her and I installed the wheel the first 
summer. I use a Raymarine wheel pilot and it works very well. I had to replace 
the head after 12 years and the new model seems better. I bought the head with 
pilot and keep it as a spare while the old one still works fine.

I have seen underdeck rams installed on the plus models.
One owner hired the boatyard to install the ram and they dropped the rudder and 
cut the fiberglass tube and installed an arm onto the SS shaft.

Another owner with wheel steering installed his a ram so it attaches to the 
radial which lives under the deck filler. That sounds like your plan and I like 
that better. I'll try and find some pictures.

Last thought: The best autopilots are used by the solo racers on Figaro II and 
Vendee Globe boats. Those guys drive their boats hard in high winds and big 
seas and the pilots they use have to steer for months to circle the globe. I 
would research that and see what brand they install.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Chuck, Resolute 1990 C&C 34/36R

> On May 29, 2019 at 11:31 AM James Bibb via CnC-List  mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> 
> I’ve given up on my Raymarine Ev-100 Tiller pilot. It the motor drive 
> alway’s kicks out and it’s a year old. I’m assuming it’s under-powered for 
> the size of boat I’m asking it to maneuver. My electronics are B&G 
> Triton2’s….looking at the B&G pilot model so that I can utilize my chart 
> plotter, etc. Any experience placing a ram underneath the stern rudder tube 
> deck plate in these models? there’s a location for a pedestal for other 
> models instead of a tiller. I hope to mount it underneath the deck plate but 
> outside of the hull with a arm off of the rudder post below the tiller. I am 
> considering a ram style for the movement.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> James Bibb
> C&C 34-36R
> Darwin’s Folly
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Auto pilot advice 34-36R

[James Bibb via CnC-List]

I found this little drive unit by Simrad/B&G which looks to be manufactured by 
Jeffa.  It has an integrated rudder sensor.  This would, I assume fit right 
underneath the deck filler and hood to an arm.  Typical rams look to be too 
long for the space. 





> On May 29, 2019, at 8:56 AM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER  wrote:
> 
> Hi James,
> My R model was originally built with a wheel and later the PO converted to a 
> tiller. That's how she was when I got her and I installed the wheel the first 
> summer. I use a Raymarine wheel pilot and it works very well. I had to 
> replace the head after 12 years and the new model seems better. I bought the 
> head with pilot and keep it as a spare while the old one still works fine. 
> 
> I have seen underdeck rams installed on the plus models. 
> One owner hired the boatyard to install the ram and they dropped the rudder 
> and cut the fiberglass tube and installed an arm onto the SS shaft. 
> 
> Another owner with wheel steering installed his a ram so it attaches to the 
> radial which lives under the deck filler. That sounds like your plan and I 
> like that better. I'll try and find some pictures.
> 
> Last thought: The best autopilots are used by the solo racers on Figaro II 
> and Vendee Globe boats. Those guys drive their boats hard in high winds and 
> big seas and the pilots they use have to steer for months to circle the 
> globe. I would research that and see what brand they install. 
> 
> Good luck and keep us posted.
> 
> Chuck, Resolute 1990 C&C 34/36R
>> On May 29, 2019 at 11:31 AM James Bibb via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> I’ve given up on my Raymarine Ev-100 Tiller pilot. It the motor drive 
>> alway’s kicks out and it’s a year old. I’m assuming it’s under-powered for 
>> the size of boat I’m asking it to maneuver. My electronics are B&G 
>> Triton2’s….looking at the B&G pilot model so that I can utilize my chart 
>> plotter, etc. Any experience placing a ram underneath the stern rudder tube 
>> deck plate in these models? there’s a location for a pedestal for other 
>> models instead of a tiller. I hope to mount it underneath the deck plate but 
>> outside of the hull with a arm off of the rudder post below the tiller. I am 
>> considering a ram style for the movement. 
>> 
>> Thanks 
>> 
>> James Bibb
>> C&C 34-36R
>> Darwin’s Folly
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Auto pilot advice 34-36R

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

I imagine a hydraulic or electric ram might fit in the well if one end were 
anchored forward of the rudder post, and the ram extended fore and aft instead 
of being mounted athwartship. The ram will work either way. The control head 
will need to be oriented on the centerline of the boat and a rudder sensor may 
be required.

CS


> On May 29, 2019 at 1:09 PM James Bibb  wrote:
> 
> 
> I found this little drive unit by Simrad/B&G which looks to be 
> manufactured by Jeffa.  It has an integrated rudder sensor.  This would, I 
> assume fit right underneath the deck filler and hood to an arm.  Typical rams 
> look to be too long for the space. 
> 
> 
> 
> [Image result for dd15 drive unit]
> 
> 
> > > On May 29, 2019, at 8:56 AM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER < 
> cscheaf...@comcast.net mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net > wrote:
> > 
> > Hi James,
> > My R model was originally built with a wheel and later the PO 
> > converted to a tiller. That's how she was when I got her and I installed 
> > the wheel the first summer. I use a Raymarine wheel pilot and it works very 
> > well. I had to replace the head after 12 years and the new model seems 
> > better. I bought the head with pilot and keep it as a spare while the old 
> > one still works fine.
> > 
> > I have seen underdeck rams installed on the plus models.
> > One owner hired the boatyard to install the ram and they dropped 
> > the rudder and cut the fiberglass tube and installed an arm onto the SS 
> > shaft.
> > 
> > Another owner with wheel steering installed his a ram so it 
> > attaches to the radial which lives under the deck filler. That sounds like 
> > your plan and I like that better. I'll try and find some pictures.
> > 
> > Last thought: The best autopilots are used by the solo racers on 
> > Figaro II and Vendee Globe boats. Those guys drive their boats hard in high 
> > winds and big seas and the pilots they use have to steer for months to 
> > circle the globe. I would research that and see what brand they install.
> > 
> > Good luck and keep us posted.
> > 
> > Chuck, Resolute 1990 C&C 34/36R
> > 
> > > > > On May 29, 2019 at 11:31 AM James Bibb via CnC-List < 
> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > > 
> > > 
> > > I’ve given up on my Raymarine Ev-100 Tiller pilot. It the 
> > > motor drive alway’s kicks out and it’s a year old. I’m assuming it’s 
> > > under-powered for the size of boat I’m asking it to maneuver. My 
> > > electronics are B&G Triton2’s….looking at the B&G pilot model so that I 
> > > can utilize my chart plotter, etc. Any experience placing a ram 
> > > underneath the stern rudder tube deck plate in these models? there’s a 
> > > location for a pedestal for other models instead of a tiller. I hope to 
> > > mount it underneath the deck plate but outside of the hull with a arm off 
> > > of the rudder post below the tiller. I am considering a ram style for the 
> > > movement.
> > > 
> > > Thanks
> > > 
> > > James Bibb
> > > C&C 34-36R
> > > Darwin’s Folly
> > > ___
> > > 
> > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your 
> > > contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to 
> > > support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- 
> > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > > 
> > > > > 
> > > 
> 
 
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Stus-List 30 MK I For Sale in Redondo Beach, CA

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

I saw this boat and met her owner Alex Simpson last October at Emerald Bay, 
Catalina.  Beautiful boat.

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/boa/6898839564.html?lang=en&cc=gb 


Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO___

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Re: Stus-List Auto pilot advice 34-36R

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

I would highly recommend you contact Fred STreet of this List; 
f...@postaudio.net 
Fred was able spec and procure everything needed to install an under deck 
Octopus autopilot for my 37; its tight, but it worksvery nice to have Fred 
as a resource as well... he has patiently helped me even when I ask repeat 
questions!
 
Richard
 sv Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: James Bibb via CnC-List 
To: Chuck S via CnC-List 
Cc: James Bibb 
Sent: Wed, May 29, 2019 11:31 am
Subject: Stus-List Auto pilot advice 34-36R

I’ve given up on my Raymarine Ev-100 Tiller pilot.  It the motor drive alway’s 
kicks out and it’s a year old.  I’m assuming it’s under-powered for the size of 
boat I’m asking it to maneuver.  My electronics are B&G Triton2’s….looking at 
the B&G pilot model so that I can utilize my chart plotter, etc.  Any 
experience placing a ram underneath the stern rudder tube deck plate in these 
models?  there’s a location for a pedestal for other models instead of a 
tiller.  I hope to mount it underneath the deck plate but outside of the hull 
with a arm off of the rudder post below the tiller.  I am considering a ram 
style for the movement. 

Thanks 

James Bibb
C&C 34-36R
Darwin’s Folly
___

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Re: Stus-List Auto pilot advice 34-36R

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I’m here — but haven’t done anything quite like this with a tiller, so I’m 
waiting to see if other owners of that model chime in.  And yes, I think James 
is correct, the EV-100 tiller pilot is under-sized for this vessel.

Keep in mind that within certain parameters, you can mix and match autopilot 
course computers and drives.  In Richard’s case, it was a Raymarine system with 
an Octopus hydraulic linear drive.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On May 29, 2019, at 2:28 PM, Richard Bush via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I would highly recommend you contact Fred STreet of this List; 
> f...@postaudio.net  
> Fred was able spec and procure everything needed to install an under deck 
> Octopus autopilot for my 37; its tight, but it worksvery nice to have 
> Fred as a resource as well... he has patiently helped me even when I ask 
> repeat questions!
> 
> Richard
> sv Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: James Bibb via CnC-List 
> To: Chuck S via CnC-List 
> Cc: James Bibb 
> Sent: Wed, May 29, 2019 11:31 am
> Subject: Stus-List Auto pilot advice 34-36R
> 
> I’ve given up on my Raymarine Ev-100 Tiller pilot.  It the motor drive 
> alway’s kicks out and it’s a year old.  I’m assuming it’s under-powered for 
> the size of boat I’m asking it to maneuver.  My electronics are B&G 
> Triton2’s….looking at the B&G pilot model so that I can utilize my chart 
> plotter, etc.  Any experience placing a ram underneath the stern rudder tube 
> deck plate in these models?  there’s a location for a pedestal for other 
> models instead of a tiller.  I hope to mount it underneath the deck plate but 
> outside of the hull with a arm off of the rudder post below the tiller.  I am 
> considering a ram style for the movement. 
> 
> Thanks 
> 
> James Bibb
> C&C 34-36R
> Darwin’s Folly
___

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Re: Stus-List Auto pilot advice 34-36R

[James Bibb via CnC-List]

Thanks Richard!  



> On May 29, 2019, at 11:28 AM, Richard Bush via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I would highly recommend you contact Fred STreet of this List; 
> f...@postaudio.net  
> Fred was able spec and procure everything needed to install an under deck 
> Octopus autopilot for my 37; its tight, but it worksvery nice to have 
> Fred as a resource as well... he has patiently helped me even when I ask 
> repeat questions!
> 
> Richard
> sv Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: James Bibb via CnC-List 
> To: Chuck S via CnC-List 
> Cc: James Bibb 
> Sent: Wed, May 29, 2019 11:31 am
> Subject: Stus-List Auto pilot advice 34-36R
> 
> I’ve given up on my Raymarine Ev-100 Tiller pilot.  It the motor drive 
> alway’s kicks out and it’s a year old.  I’m assuming it’s under-powered for 
> the size of boat I’m asking it to maneuver.  My electronics are B&G 
> Triton2’s….looking at the B&G pilot model so that I can utilize my chart 
> plotter, etc.  Any experience placing a ram underneath the stern rudder tube 
> deck plate in these models?  there’s a location for a pedestal for other 
> models instead of a tiller.  I hope to mount it underneath the deck plate but 
> outside of the hull with a arm off of the rudder post below the tiller.  I am 
> considering a ram style for the movement. 
> 
> Thanks 
> 
> James Bibb
> C&C 34-36R
> Darwin’s Folly
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Stus-List Auto pilot advice 34-36R

[Chuck Saur via CnC-List]

I had same/similar issue on my new(to me) boat with EV-100. Make sure the
hex-head screw in drive lever is tight!!!
-- 


*Chuck Saur*

*Board Chair  *



*Olivia's Gift*517 490-5926 Cell

616 977-5766 Fax
www.oliviasgift.org



[image: OG logo]
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Re: Stus-List Auto pilot advice 34-36R

[James Bibb via CnC-List]

mixing and matching…in my case the Raymarine does not connect to the B&G wind 
instrumentation or the chart plotter as well. 

But…but the main issues is that the tiller kicks off so it’s very un-reliable 
to a point where I’m not using it.  I can probably still sell it at a good 
price to a boat that could use it and that would allow me to…..find the right 
unit.  




> On May 29, 2019, at 11:39 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I’m here — but haven’t done anything quite like this with a tiller, so I’m 
> waiting to see if other owners of that model chime in.  And yes, I think 
> James is correct, the EV-100 tiller pilot is under-sized for this vessel.
> 
> Keep in mind that within certain parameters, you can mix and match autopilot 
> course computers and drives.  In Richard’s case, it was a Raymarine system 
> with an Octopus hydraulic linear drive.
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>> On May 29, 2019, at 2:28 PM, Richard Bush via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> I would highly recommend you contact Fred STreet of this List; 
>> f...@postaudio.net  
>> Fred was able spec and procure everything needed to install an under deck 
>> Octopus autopilot for my 37; its tight, but it worksvery nice to have 
>> Fred as a resource as well... he has patiently helped me even when I ask 
>> repeat questions!
>> 
>> Richard
>> sv Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596
>> Richard N. Bush
>> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
>> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
>> 502-584-7255
>> 
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: James Bibb via CnC-List > >
>> To: Chuck S via CnC-List > >
>> Cc: James Bibb mailto:jamesb...@me.com>>
>> Sent: Wed, May 29, 2019 11:31 am
>> Subject: Stus-List Auto pilot advice 34-36R
>> 
>> I’ve given up on my Raymarine Ev-100 Tiller pilot.  It the motor drive 
>> alway’s kicks out and it’s a year old.  I’m assuming it’s under-powered for 
>> the size of boat I’m asking it to maneuver.  My electronics are B&G 
>> Triton2’s….looking at the B&G pilot model so that I can utilize my chart 
>> plotter, etc.  Any experience placing a ram underneath the stern rudder tube 
>> deck plate in these models?  there’s a location for a pedestal for other 
>> models instead of a tiller.  I hope to mount it underneath the deck plate 
>> but outside of the hull with a arm off of the rudder post below the tiller.  
>> I am considering a ram style for the movement. 
>> 
>> Thanks 
>> 
>> James Bibb
>> C&C 34-36R
>> Darwin’s Folly
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Re: Stus-List Auto pilot advice 34-36R

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Consider a Simrad TP32 if you have NMEA0183 interfacing. I think the Simrad
pilots are very good. The TP32 has essentially the same control circuit as
my Simrad WP30 Wheel Pilot.  The TP32 is self-contained and does not
require any separate components.

I love my WP30!  I’ve got 20 years use out of my WP30 on my 35-1 and it’s
still going strong. (Disclaimer: I put a second WP30 on last month but the
old one was still fine.  I keep it as a spare.). The new one drove us 100+
miles waypoint to waypoint over the weekend without a hiccup.

My WP30 does steer to course using the integral fluxgate as well as steer
to waypoint and steer to wind angle via NMEA0183 interface. I use a Noland
NMEA0183 multiplexer.

Used TP32’s can be found on eBay. New ones are under $700.

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Auto pilot advice 34-36R

[James Bibb via CnC-List]

Thanks Dennis…I’m afraid I’d be back similar to the Ev-100 Tiller pilot from 
Raymarine where it would simply be undersized. 

And….and I’m operating almost exclusively on the NMEA 2000 Backbone as I move 
forward.  Got me thinking….



> On May 29, 2019, at 1:52 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Consider a Simrad TP32 if you have NMEA0183 interfacing. I think the Simrad 
> pilots are very good. The TP32 has essentially the same control circuit as my 
> Simrad WP30 Wheel Pilot.  The TP32 is self-contained and does not require any 
> separate components. 
> 
> I love my WP30!  I’ve got 20 years use out of my WP30 on my 35-1 and it’s 
> still going strong. (Disclaimer: I put a second WP30 on last month but the 
> old one was still fine.  I keep it as a spare.). The new one drove us 100+ 
> miles waypoint to waypoint over the weekend without a hiccup. 
> 
> My WP30 does steer to course using the integral fluxgate as well as steer to 
> waypoint and steer to wind angle via NMEA0183 interface. I use a Noland 
> NMEA0183 multiplexer. 
> 
> Used TP32’s can be found on eBay. New ones are under $700. 
> 
> Dennis C. 
> Touché 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter maintenance stories

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

My previous boat with an A4 engine would slow down or stall, when running
at full throttle. When i backed off on the throttle, the engine ran fine.
Problem turned out to be a clogged filter on the end of the pickup tube.
Cleaned it out, and the engine ran fine after that. Did C&C put filters on
the end of the pickup tube? Are they put only on gas engines?

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose city YC
Portland, OR

On Wed, May 29, 2019 at 8:15 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I was on the pier couple weeks ago when a neighbor boat owner told me he
> was coming in off the lake and couldn't get full rpm on his diesel.  He
> asked if I thought it could be the fuel filter being blinded.  I said yes
> and asked when was the last time he changed the element.  His reply?  35
> years!
>
> I  asked if he knew where it was.  :)  He did.  It was an old Perko 209.
> Google it for a picture.
>
> We couldn't remove the screw on top with it in the boat.  The entire unit
> twisted and it started coming off the bulkhead.  We removed the unit to the
> dock and used a large wrenches to take it apart.  Inside was a ceramic
> permanent element.  I was unbelievably plugged up.  About 1/8 inch of crud
> all around it.  I told him to go get a can of carburetor cleaner  and clean
> it.  Took him a few applications of the cleaner but it cleaned up.
> Reinstalled it and diesel runs fine.
>
> On the other hand, I had to change the fuel filter element on Touche' this
> weekend on the way to Pensacola.  I have vacuum gauge on it.  It started
> easing into the red.  There was only 100 hours on it.  The previous element
> lasted over 400 hours.  Very strange.  I had just removed the fuel tank
> couple months ago and the fuel looked very clean.
>
> You just don't know.  A batch of bad fuel perhaps?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter maintenance stories

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Will a Shop Vac work?

On Wed, May 29, 2019 at 8:59 AM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Speaking of fuel issues, I recently drained my Racor MA 500 (?) fuel/water
> separator and replaced the filter element. The bottom of the bowl had what
> looks like several black 'balls' in it about 1/2" in diameter which do not
> fit thru the drain.
>
> I have no clue what they are but guess maybe some compound made from
> diesel fuel (or contaminants within it). Without disassembling the unit, I
> don't know how to get them out or dissolved or whether I need to. This
> Racor is almost impossible to reach in my engine compartment so whatever I
> do will be a PITA.
>
> Any suggestions on what to do--if anything?
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> To: CnClist 
> Cc: Dennis C. 
> Sent: Wed, May 29, 2019 11:15 am
> Subject: Stus-List Fuel filter maintenance stories
>
> I was on the pier couple weeks ago when a neighbor boat owner told me he
> was coming in off the lake and couldn't get full rpm on his diesel.  He
> asked if I thought it could be the fuel filter being blinded.  I said yes
> and asked when was the last time he changed the element.  His reply?  35
> years!
>
> I  asked if he knew where it was.  :)  He did.  It was an old Perko 209.
> Google it for a picture.
>
> We couldn't remove the screw on top with it in the boat.  The entire unit
> twisted and it started coming off the bulkhead.  We removed the unit to the
> dock and used a large wrenches to take it apart.  Inside was a ceramic
> permanent element.  I was unbelievably plugged up.  About 1/8 inch of crud
> all around it.  I told him to go get a can of carburetor cleaner  and clean
> it.  Took him a few applications of the cleaner but it cleaned up.
> Reinstalled it and diesel runs fine.
>
> On the other hand, I had to change the fuel filter element on Touche' this
> weekend on the way to Pensacola.  I have vacuum gauge on it.  It started
> easing into the red.  There was only 100 hours on it.  The previous element
> lasted over 400 hours.  Very strange.  I had just removed the fuel tank
> couple months ago and the fuel looked very clean.
>
> You just don't know.  A batch of bad fuel perhaps?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter maintenance stories

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Or an oil extractor?

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN via 
CnC-List
Sent: May 29, 2019 6:13 PM
To: C&C 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel filter maintenance stories

Will a Shop Vac work?

On Wed, May 29, 2019 at 8:59 AM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Speaking of fuel issues, I recently drained my Racor MA 500 (?) fuel/water 
separator and replaced the filter element. The bottom of the bowl had what 
looks like several black 'balls' in it about 1/2" in diameter which do not fit 
thru the drain.

I have no clue what they are but guess maybe some compound made from diesel 
fuel (or contaminants within it). Without disassembling the unit, I don't know 
how to get them out or dissolved or whether I need to. This Racor is almost 
impossible to reach in my engine compartment so whatever I do will be a PITA.

Any suggestions on what to do--if anything?

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb


-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: CnClist mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
Sent: Wed, May 29, 2019 11:15 am
Subject: Stus-List Fuel filter maintenance stories
I was on the pier couple weeks ago when a neighbor boat owner told me he was 
coming in off the lake and couldn't get full rpm on his diesel.  He asked if I 
thought it could be the fuel filter being blinded.  I said yes and asked when 
was the last time he changed the element.  His reply?  35 years!

I  asked if he knew where it was.  :)  He did.  It was an old Perko 209.  
Google it for a picture.

We couldn't remove the screw on top with it in the boat.  The entire unit 
twisted and it started coming off the bulkhead.  We removed the unit to the 
dock and used a large wrenches to take it apart.  Inside was a ceramic 
permanent element.  I was unbelievably plugged up.  About 1/8 inch of crud all 
around it.  I told him to go get a can of carburetor cleaner  and clean it.  
Took him a few applications of the cleaner but it cleaned up.  Reinstalled it 
and diesel runs fine.

On the other hand, I had to change the fuel filter element on Touche' this 
weekend on the way to Pensacola.  I have vacuum gauge on it.  It started easing 
into the red.  There was only 100 hours on it.  The previous element lasted 
over 400 hours.  Very strange.  I had just removed the fuel tank couple months 
ago and the fuel looked very clean.

You just don't know.  A batch of bad fuel perhaps?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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