Re: Stus-List Interesting electrical problem

[Ian Matthew via CnC-List]

You guys are funny.  Yes I live on the left coast, but aliens?

Ian Matthew
SF.

On Thu, Sep 26, 2019 at 10:31 PM sv Rebecca Leah via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My vote is aliens. Or the Russian navy.
>
>
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> Sv Rebecca Leah
> C&C LF39
> 253-208-1412
> Port Orchard YC wa.
>
>  Original message 
> From: Jim Watts via CnC-List 
> Date: 9/26/19 20:57 (GMT-08:00)
> To: 1 CnC List 
> Cc: Jim Watts 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Interesting electrical problem
>
> Sounds very much like a lightning strike. I assume you'd know if you'd
> been hit.
> Or aliens.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
> On Thu, 26 Sep 2019 at 14:16, John Irvin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Any UFO’s in the area?
>>
>
>> --
Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento" C&C 29-1
San Francisco Bay

Sent from my iPad using Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Interesting electrical problem

[sv Rebecca Leah via CnC-List]

My vote is aliens. Or the Russian navy. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah C&C 
LF39253-208-1412Port Orchard YC wa.
 Original message From: Jim Watts via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/26/19  20:57  (GMT-08:00) To: 1 CnC List 
 Cc: Jim Watts  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Interesting electrical problem Sounds very much like a lightning 
strike. I assume you'd know if you'd been hit.Or aliens. Jim WattsParadigm 
ShiftC&C 35 Mk IIIVictoria, BCOn Thu, 26 Sep 2019 at 14:16, John Irvin via 
CnC-List  wrote:Any UFO’s in the area?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 26, 2019, at 3:26 PM, Ian Matthew via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have been following the list for many years and I enjoy reading the wisdom 
> of this group.  I have an interesting problem and seek your advice.
> 
> I have an very intermittent electrical problem (in fact it has only happened 
> twice in the last 7 years.  In both cases it has resulted in electrical / 
> electronic components becoming 'blown out' with all fuses inline remaining 
> good.
> 
> The first time I suddenly lost my AM/FM radio and ALL my navigation lights. 
> The engine also stopped as I had no power to drive the electric fuel pump. 
> This happened when motoring back home at night after a long race.  
> Fortunately there was wind and a hand-held VHF and a powerful spotlight on 
> the sails allowed us to be seen by commercial traffic.  Afterwards, I checked 
> - ALL the incandescent bulbs that were on had blown, but the fuses were OK.  
> The radio had internal circuit board components blown but again the inline 
> fuses (there are 2) were OK.  In the case of the fuel pump, this had to be 
> replaced.
> Thinking this may have been a spike from the alternator, I replaced the 
> alternator.
> 
> Last week (3 years later), motoring back in the dark I had a similar problem, 
> but this time only my VHF radio 'blew'.  Again the inline fuse was good.  The 
> navigation lights have been replaced with LED lights and the AM/FM radio was 
> off.
> 
> I often motor after long races and this has only happened twice!
> 
> Does anyone have any ideas as to what may have caused this.  I am an engineer 
> so can diagnose most things but this has baffled me.
> 
> I am about to upgrade my VHF radio for one with DSC and internal GPS and to 
> add some wind instruments.  (I have a Raymarine knotmeter/depth meter 
> combined, and a EV-100 autopilot.)  I want to separate my electronics 
> electrical input and have considered putting them on an isolated battery, but 
> charging is a problem.  Is there some circuit protector I can put in place to 
> stop this happening again?
> 
> All suggestions welcomed.
> 
> BTW - for those of you with 29 mk 1's - you can race them competitively in 
> strong winds (as is usual on San Francisco Bay) - keep the boat flat and have 
> a really good crew!
> 
> 
> -- 
> Ian Matthew
> "Siento el Viento"  C&C 29-1
> San Francisco Bay
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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Re: Stus-List Interesting electrical problem

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Sounds very much like a lightning strike. I assume you'd know if you'd been
hit.
Or aliens.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Thu, 26 Sep 2019 at 14:16, John Irvin via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Any UFO’s in the area?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Sep 26, 2019, at 3:26 PM, Ian Matthew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > I have been following the list for many years and I enjoy reading the
> wisdom of this group.  I have an interesting problem and seek your advice.
> >
> > I have an very intermittent electrical problem (in fact it has only
> happened twice in the last 7 years.  In both cases it has resulted in
> electrical / electronic components becoming 'blown out' with all fuses
> inline remaining good.
> >
> > The first time I suddenly lost my AM/FM radio and ALL my navigation
> lights. The engine also stopped as I had no power to drive the electric
> fuel pump. This happened when motoring back home at night after a long
> race.  Fortunately there was wind and a hand-held VHF and a powerful
> spotlight on the sails allowed us to be seen by commercial traffic.
> Afterwards, I checked - ALL the incandescent bulbs that were on had blown,
> but the fuses were OK.  The radio had internal circuit board components
> blown but again the inline fuses (there are 2) were OK.  In the case of the
> fuel pump, this had to be replaced.
> > Thinking this may have been a spike from the alternator, I replaced the
> alternator.
> >
> > Last week (3 years later), motoring back in the dark I had a similar
> problem, but this time only my VHF radio 'blew'.  Again the inline fuse was
> good.  The navigation lights have been replaced with LED lights and the
> AM/FM radio was off.
> >
> > I often motor after long races and this has only happened twice!
> >
> > Does anyone have any ideas as to what may have caused this.  I am an
> engineer so can diagnose most things but this has baffled me.
> >
> > I am about to upgrade my VHF radio for one with DSC and internal GPS and
> to add some wind instruments.  (I have a Raymarine knotmeter/depth meter
> combined, and a EV-100 autopilot.)  I want to separate my electronics
> electrical input and have considered putting them on an isolated battery,
> but charging is a problem.  Is there some circuit protector I can put in
> place to stop this happening again?
> >
> > All suggestions welcomed.
> >
> > BTW - for those of you with 29 mk 1's - you can race them competitively
> in strong winds (as is usual on San Francisco Bay) - keep the boat flat and
> have a really good crew!
> >
> >
> > --
> > Ian Matthew
> > "Siento el Viento"  C&C 29-1
> > San Francisco Bay
> > ___
> >
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Interesting electrical problem

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Any UFO’s in the area?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 26, 2019, at 3:26 PM, Ian Matthew via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have been following the list for many years and I enjoy reading the wisdom 
> of this group.  I have an interesting problem and seek your advice.
> 
> I have an very intermittent electrical problem (in fact it has only happened 
> twice in the last 7 years.  In both cases it has resulted in electrical / 
> electronic components becoming 'blown out' with all fuses inline remaining 
> good.
> 
> The first time I suddenly lost my AM/FM radio and ALL my navigation lights. 
> The engine also stopped as I had no power to drive the electric fuel pump. 
> This happened when motoring back home at night after a long race.  
> Fortunately there was wind and a hand-held VHF and a powerful spotlight on 
> the sails allowed us to be seen by commercial traffic.  Afterwards, I checked 
> - ALL the incandescent bulbs that were on had blown, but the fuses were OK.  
> The radio had internal circuit board components blown but again the inline 
> fuses (there are 2) were OK.  In the case of the fuel pump, this had to be 
> replaced.
> Thinking this may have been a spike from the alternator, I replaced the 
> alternator.
> 
> Last week (3 years later), motoring back in the dark I had a similar problem, 
> but this time only my VHF radio 'blew'.  Again the inline fuse was good.  The 
> navigation lights have been replaced with LED lights and the AM/FM radio was 
> off.
> 
> I often motor after long races and this has only happened twice!
> 
> Does anyone have any ideas as to what may have caused this.  I am an engineer 
> so can diagnose most things but this has baffled me.
> 
> I am about to upgrade my VHF radio for one with DSC and internal GPS and to 
> add some wind instruments.  (I have a Raymarine knotmeter/depth meter 
> combined, and a EV-100 autopilot.)  I want to separate my electronics 
> electrical input and have considered putting them on an isolated battery, but 
> charging is a problem.  Is there some circuit protector I can put in place to 
> stop this happening again?
> 
> All suggestions welcomed.
> 
> BTW - for those of you with 29 mk 1's - you can race them competitively in 
> strong winds (as is usual on San Francisco Bay) - keep the boat flat and have 
> a really good crew!
> 
> 
> -- 
> Ian Matthew
> "Siento el Viento"  C&C 29-1
> San Francisco Bay
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Interesting electrical problem

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

Personally I usually find that strange electrical problems especially on
boats are grounding problems. Yours sounds very peculiar though. From an
isolating batteries point of view i would consider adding a Victron battery
isolator. That would get your house and start batteries apart if the
problem was coming from the alternator. I think I would also consider
adding fusing on the ground side of the vhf etc. Not sure.

Jeff

On Thu., Sep. 26, 2019, 3:26 p.m. Ian Matthew via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have been following the list for many years and I enjoy reading the
> wisdom of this group.  I have an interesting problem and seek your advice.
>
> I have an very intermittent electrical problem (in fact it has only
> happened twice in the last 7 years.  In both cases it has resulted in
> electrical / electronic components becoming 'blown out' with all fuses
> inline remaining good.
>
> The first time I suddenly lost my AM/FM radio and ALL my navigation
> lights. The engine also stopped as I had no power to drive the electric
> fuel pump. This happened when motoring back home at night after a long
> race.  Fortunately there was wind and a hand-held VHF and a powerful
> spotlight on the sails allowed us to be seen by commercial traffic.
> Afterwards, I checked - ALL the incandescent bulbs that were on had blown,
> but the fuses were OK.  The radio had internal circuit board components
> blown but again the inline fuses (there are 2) were OK.  In the case of the
> fuel pump, this had to be replaced.
> Thinking this may have been a spike from the alternator, I replaced the
> alternator.
>
> Last week (3 years later), motoring back in the dark I had a similar
> problem, but this time only my VHF radio 'blew'.  Again the inline fuse was
> good.  The navigation lights have been replaced with LED lights and the
> AM/FM radio was off.
>
> I often motor after long races and this has only happened twice!
>
> Does anyone have any ideas as to what may have caused this.  I am an
> engineer so can diagnose most things but this has baffled me.
>
> I am about to upgrade my VHF radio for one with DSC and internal GPS and
> to add some wind instruments.  (I have a Raymarine knotmeter/depth meter
> combined, and a EV-100 autopilot.)  I want to separate my electronics
> electrical input and have considered putting them on an isolated battery,
> but charging is a problem.  Is there some circuit protector I can put in
> place to stop this happening again?
>
> All suggestions welcomed.
>
> BTW - for those of you with 29 mk 1's - you can race them competitively in
> strong winds (as is usual on San Francisco Bay) - keep the boat flat and
> have a really good crew!
>
>
> --
> Ian Matthew
> "Siento el Viento"  C&C 29-1
> San Francisco Bay
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Window spline options (CnC 33-1)

[David Paine via CnC-List]

I have a 1975 33 - I and I did the following:
I went to a window building place and went through their samples of spline and
found one that fit perfectly (ie, it closely matched the old spline
thickness).  I then went to Amazon and ordered the shortest roll I could
get (100 ft).   Here is what I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G0Y5EA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
.


The plexiglass was in good shape so I used VHB 2 sided neoprene tape to
install the windows.  Then I used a popsicle stick to force the spline into
the groove between the frame and the plexi.   Note:  For the spline
mentioned above to work, you have to use the appropriate thickness VHB tape
(less than 1/8" total thickness) and your plexiglass or lexan or whatever
needs to be surprisingly  thin -- I don't have the measurement handy, but
I'd bet that my plexiglass is about 1/8" thick.

I did mine about 10 years ago and they still don't leak

On Thu, Sep 26, 2019 at 3:35 PM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Was wondering about that.
>
> *From:* Dave. via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, September 26, 2019 2:45 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* kasel...@q.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Window spline options (CnC 33-1)
>
> OOOPS. How about 1975? I have a 1965 VW 21 window transporter, does that
> count?
> Dave.
> SLY
> 1975 C&C 33
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Sep 26, 2019, at 9:58 AM, Richard Bush via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Dave, you have a 1965 33-1? I'd like to see photos of your boat! thanks
>
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Dave. via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: kaselers 
> Sent: Thu, Sep 26, 2019 12:46 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Window spline options (CnC 33-1)
>
> Its always great to hear from another 33-1 owner. These are great boats.
> Prefect size with great sailing characteristics. We have won many PHRF
> races in ours. In our case, a prior owner removed the window frames
> entirely and using a double sided foam tape type material stuck the windows
> directly to the cabin house. We have replaced the tape twice in our 30
> something years of ownership but are not troubled with window leaks. The
> job is not easy and requires cutting many short pieces of this foam tape to
> get around the corners but we then screw the plexiglass to the house which
> compresses the foam and creates a seal.
> Good luck,
> Dave.
> SLY
> 1965 C&C 33-1
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Window spline options (CnC 33-1)

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Was wondering about that.

From: Dave. via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, September 26, 2019 2:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: kasel...@q.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Window spline options (CnC 33-1)

OOOPS. How about 1975? I have a 1965 VW 21 window transporter, does that count? 
Dave.
SLY
1975 C&C 33


Sent from my iPad

On Sep 26, 2019, at 9:58 AM, Richard Bush via CnC-List  
wrote:


  Dave, you have a 1965 33-1? I'd like to see photos of your boat! thanks


  Richard

  s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4



  Richard N. Bush

  2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

  Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

  502-584-7255


  -Original Message-
  From: Dave. via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list 
  Cc: kaselers 
  Sent: Thu, Sep 26, 2019 12:46 pm
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Window spline options (CnC 33-1)


  Its always great to hear from another 33-1 owner. These are great boats. 
Prefect size with great sailing characteristics. We have won many PHRF races in 
ours. In our case, a prior owner removed the window frames entirely and using a 
double sided foam tape type material stuck the windows directly to the cabin 
house. We have replaced the tape twice in our 30 something years of ownership 
but are not troubled with window leaks. The job is not easy and requires 
cutting many short pieces of this foam tape to get around the corners but we 
then screw the plexiglass to the house which compresses the foam and creates a 
seal. 
  Good luck,
  Dave.
  SLY
  1965 C&C 33-1

  Sent from my iPad



  ___

  Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Interesting electrical problem

[Ian Matthew via CnC-List]

I have been following the list for many years and I enjoy reading the
wisdom of this group.  I have an interesting problem and seek your advice.

I have an very intermittent electrical problem (in fact it has only
happened twice in the last 7 years.  In both cases it has resulted in
electrical / electronic components becoming 'blown out' with all fuses
inline remaining good.

The first time I suddenly lost my AM/FM radio and ALL my navigation lights.
The engine also stopped as I had no power to drive the electric fuel pump.
This happened when motoring back home at night after a long race.
Fortunately there was wind and a hand-held VHF and a powerful spotlight on
the sails allowed us to be seen by commercial traffic.  Afterwards, I
checked - ALL the incandescent bulbs that were on had blown, but the fuses
were OK.  The radio had internal circuit board components blown but again
the inline fuses (there are 2) were OK.  In the case of the fuel pump, this
had to be replaced.
Thinking this may have been a spike from the alternator, I replaced the
alternator.

Last week (3 years later), motoring back in the dark I had a similar
problem, but this time only my VHF radio 'blew'.  Again the inline fuse was
good.  The navigation lights have been replaced with LED lights and the
AM/FM radio was off.

I often motor after long races and this has only happened twice!

Does anyone have any ideas as to what may have caused this.  I am an
engineer so can diagnose most things but this has baffled me.

I am about to upgrade my VHF radio for one with DSC and internal GPS and to
add some wind instruments.  (I have a Raymarine knotmeter/depth meter
combined, and a EV-100 autopilot.)  I want to separate my electronics
electrical input and have considered putting them on an isolated battery,
but charging is a problem.  Is there some circuit protector I can put in
place to stop this happening again?

All suggestions welcomed.

BTW - for those of you with 29 mk 1's - you can race them competitively in
strong winds (as is usual on San Francisco Bay) - keep the boat flat and
have a really good crew!


-- 
Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento"  C&C 29-1
San Francisco Bay
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Window spline options (CnC 33-1)

[Dave. via CnC-List]

OOOPS. How about 1975? I have a 1965 VW 21 window transporter, does that count?
Dave.
SLY
1975 C&C 33

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 26, 2019, at 9:58 AM, Richard Bush via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Dave, you have a 1965 33-1? I'd like to see photos of your boat! thanks
> 
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4
> 
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Dave. via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: kaselers 
> Sent: Thu, Sep 26, 2019 12:46 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Window spline options (CnC 33-1)
> 
> Its always great to hear from another 33-1 owner. These are great boats. 
> Prefect size with great sailing characteristics. We have won many PHRF races 
> in ours. In our case, a prior owner removed the window frames entirely and 
> using a double sided foam tape type material stuck the windows directly to 
> the cabin house. We have replaced the tape twice in our 30 something years of 
> ownership but are not troubled with window leaks. The job is not easy and 
> requires cutting many short pieces of this foam tape to get around the 
> corners but we then screw the plexiglass to the house which compresses the 
> foam and creates a seal. 
> Good luck,
> Dave.
> SLY
> 1965 C&C 33-1
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Window spline options (CnC 33-1)

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Evan,

Replacing the lenses in the aluminum frames is straightforward.  I do it
every 7-8 years on my 35-1.  I cut the lenses myself from acrylic I get
from mcmaster.com.

First, the inner seal is simply D-shaped EDPM weatherstripping that can be
found at Lowes, Home Depot or Walmart.  MD Building Products and Frost King
make it.  Amazon sells it also.  Look for MD Building Products 1025
weatherstripping.

Clean the sealing surface on the aluminum frames and stick the adhesive
side to the frame.  Insert the lens.  Wet the spline with soapy water and
use a wooden dowel or similar to push the spline in place.

You can buy universal spline on amazon much cheaper than the spline sold by
Holland.  I used C.R. Laurence CRL gray 15/32 Wide glazing spline.
However, that spline was a bit hard to insert.  It worked but it was a bit
of a pain.

I suspect there are better spline/gasket alternatives out there.  The first
time I replaced them, I used the spline from Holland.  It worked very well.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Sep 26, 2019, 11:11 AM Evan Kane via CnC-List 
wrote:

> The metal-framed windows on my 33-1 all leak, and the (vinyl?) spline is
> pulling away at the corners and looks bad. The leak is between the frame
> and the plexi, not the frame and the fiberglass.
>
> I’m aware that holland marine and south shore sell the spline but at
> relatively large expense.
>
> The local window shop didn’t have anything matching in stock but
> recommended picking something from CR Laurence’s options ($20-40 for a 100
> ft roll), but I can’t tell which would work best.
>
> What is the list using for replacement spline?
>
> Also, do you recommend butyl tape or 3m vhb tape or other products for
> sealing the plexi to the frame?
>
> Please excuse any technical errors using the list on my part, this is my
> first post (likely of many)
>
> Evan
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Window spline options (CnC 33-1)

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Welcome aboard, Evan.

If you decide down the road to do something more elaborate (and expensive) 
with your windows, my 1978 34 came with the same oval framed windows (C&C 
started using the "go fast" windows on the 34 the next year).  I replaced my 
windows with Lewmar opening ports, which allowed me to cool the cabin on hot 
days.  It changed the boat's appearance slightly, but in my view the Lewmar 
windows were far superior and more attractive.  Something to think about for 
long range planning.


-Original Message- 
From: Dave. via CnC-List

Sent: Thursday, September 26, 2019 12:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: kasel...@q.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Window spline options (CnC 33-1)

Its always great to hear from another 33-1 owner. These are great boats. 
Prefect size with great sailing characteristics. We have won many PHRF races 
in ours. In our case, a prior owner removed the window frames entirely and 
using a double sided foam tape type material stuck the windows directly to 
the cabin house. We have replaced the tape twice in our 30 something years 
of ownership but are not troubled with window leaks. The job is not easy and 
requires cutting many short pieces of this foam tape to get around the 
corners but we then screw the plexiglass to the house which compresses the 
foam and creates a seal.

Good luck,
Dave.
SLY
1965 C&C 33-1

Sent from my iPad

On Sep 26, 2019, at 9:11 AM, Evan Kane via CnC-List 
 wrote:


The metal-framed windows on my 33-1 all leak, and the (vinyl?) spline is 
pulling away at the corners and looks bad. The leak is between the frame 
and the plexi, not the frame and the fiberglass.


I’m aware that holland marine and south shore sell the spline but at 
relatively large expense.


The local window shop didn’t have anything matching in stock but 
recommended picking something from CR Laurence’s options ($20-40 for a 100 
ft roll), but I can’t tell which would work best.


What is the list using for replacement spline?

Also, do you recommend butyl tape or 3m vhb tape or other products for 
sealing the plexi to the frame?


Please excuse any technical errors using the list on my part, this is my 
first post (likely of many)


Evan



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Re: Stus-List Window spline options (CnC 33-1)

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 Dave, you have a 1965 33-1? I'd like to see photos of your boat! thanks
 
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: Dave. via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: kaselers 
Sent: Thu, Sep 26, 2019 12:46 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Window spline options (CnC 33-1)

Its always great to hear from another 33-1 owner. These are great boats. 
Prefect size with great sailing characteristics. We have won many PHRF races in 
ours. In our case, a prior owner removed the window frames entirely and using a 
double sided foam tape type material stuck the windows directly to the cabin 
house. We have replaced the tape twice in our 30 something years of ownership 
but are not troubled with window leaks. The job is not easy and requires 
cutting many short pieces of this foam tape to get around the corners but we 
then screw the plexiglass to the house which compresses the foam and creates a 
seal. 
Good luck,
Dave.
SLY
1965 C&C 33-1

Sent from my iPad


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Re: Stus-List Window spline options (CnC 33-1)

[Dave. via CnC-List]

Its always great to hear from another 33-1 owner. These are great boats. 
Prefect size with great sailing characteristics. We have won many PHRF races in 
ours. In our case, a prior owner removed the window frames entirely and using a 
double sided foam tape type material stuck the windows directly to the cabin 
house. We have replaced the tape twice in our 30 something years of ownership 
but are not troubled with window leaks. The job is not easy and requires 
cutting many short pieces of this foam tape to get around the corners but we 
then screw the plexiglass to the house which compresses the foam and creates a 
seal. 
Good luck,
Dave.
SLY
1965 C&C 33-1

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 26, 2019, at 9:11 AM, Evan Kane via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The metal-framed windows on my 33-1 all leak, and the (vinyl?) spline is 
> pulling away at the corners and looks bad. The leak is between the frame and 
> the plexi, not the frame and the fiberglass. 
> 
> I’m aware that holland marine and south shore sell the spline but at 
> relatively large expense. 
> 
> The local window shop didn’t have anything matching in stock but recommended 
> picking something from CR Laurence’s options ($20-40 for a 100 ft roll), but 
> I can’t tell which would work best. 
> 
> What is the list using for replacement spline?
> 
> Also, do you recommend butyl tape or 3m vhb tape or other products for 
> sealing the plexi to the frame?
> 
> Please excuse any technical errors using the list on my part, this is my 
> first post (likely of many)
> 
> Evan
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


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Stus-List Window spline options (CnC 33-1)

[Evan Kane via CnC-List]

The metal-framed windows on my 33-1 all leak, and the (vinyl?) spline is 
pulling away at the corners and looks bad. The leak is between the frame and 
the plexi, not the frame and the fiberglass. 

I’m aware that holland marine and south shore sell the spline but at relatively 
large expense. 

The local window shop didn’t have anything matching in stock but recommended 
picking something from CR Laurence’s options ($20-40 for a 100 ft roll), but I 
can’t tell which would work best. 

What is the list using for replacement spline?

Also, do you recommend butyl tape or 3m vhb tape or other products for sealing 
the plexi to the frame?

Please excuse any technical errors using the list on my part, this is my first 
post (likely of many)

Evan



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Re: Stus-List Rigging information.

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Hull Numbers (HIN)


HIN

All boats manufactured or imported on or after November 1, 1972 must 
bear a HIN. The HIN is a 12 character serial number that uniquely 
identifies your boat. The HIN has an important safety purpose. It 
enables manufacturers to clearly identify for boat owners the boats that 
are involved in a defect notification and recall campaign. A HIN is not 
the same as a State registration number, which may be required to be 
displayed on the bow of your boat. The HIN is a Federal requirement; 
your boat’s registration number is a State requirement similar to the 
license plate on your car. The HIN, however, is required to be shown on 
the State certificate of registration.


http://boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/pre841.gif


http://boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/pre842.gif

AUG
SEP
OCT
NOV
DEC
JAN



A
B
C
D
E
F




FEB
MAR
APR
MAY
JUN
JUL



G
H
I
J
K
L

**Key to Month of Model Year*

*Figure 1 - HIN Formats Before August 1, 1984*

The boat manufacturer must display two identical hull identification 
numbers, no less than one-fourth of an inch high, on each boat hull. The 
primary HIN must be permanently affixed (so that it can be seen from 
outside the boat) to the starboard side of the transom within two inches 
of the top of the transom, gunwale, or hull/deck joint, whichever is 
lowest. On boats without transoms or on boats on which it would be 
impractical to the transom, the HIN must be affixed to the starboard 
outboard side of the hull, aft within one foot of the stern and within 
two inches of the top of hull side, gunwale, or hull/deck joint, 
whichever is lowest. The starboard outboard side of the hull aft is the 
preferred HIN location for many manufacturers. On catamarans and pontoon 
boats the HIN must be affixed on the aft crossbeam within one foot of 
the starboard hull attachment.


http://boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/aft84.gif

JAN
FEB
MAR
APR
MAY
JUN



A
B
C
D
E
F




JUL
AUG
SEP
OCT
NOV
DEC



G
H
I
J
K
L

*Figure 2 - HIN Format After August 1, 1984*

Boats manufactured or imported on or after August 1, 1984, also have a 
duplicate secondary HIN affixed somewhere on an unexposed location 
inside the boat or beneath a fitting or item of hardware. The purpose is 
to help authorities identify your boat if a thief or vandals remove or 
damage the primary HIN on the transom. It is illegal for anyone 
(manufacturer, dealer, distributor, or owner) to alter or remove a HIN 
without the express written authorization of the Commandant, U.S. Coast 
Guard.


The regulations prescribe the format of the HIN. The first three 
characters are a MIC (Manufacturer Identification Code) assigned by the 
Coast Guard to the manufacturer or the person importing the boat; 
characters four through eight are a serial number assigned by the 
manufacturer; the last four characters indicate the month and year the 
boat was built, and the model year. Prior to August 1, 1984, the 
manufacturer had the option of expressing this in the form of a model 
year designation.


The Coast Guard maintains a searchable database of MICs if you want to 
check yours out - click here .


Don Kern
Fireball C&C35 MkII
Bristol, RI


On 9/25/2019 8:41 PM, HV via CnC-List wrote:

Hi all,

Recently purchased a 1979 C&C 30 MK1, I have sent a payment to get the 
owners manual but I am unsure if it has rigging information.


So I am wondering if anyone would be willing to share some images of 
how their Cunningham/Downhaul may be rigged...


Additionally, for some reason the waste tank behind the bulkhead in 
the head has been abandoned, does anyone have any information on how 
this was setup?


I am really liking this boat (I have owned many), she is in very good 
condition and just needs some TLC, oh I am also interested in adding a 
bow anchor roller, has anyone done this to their 30Mk1?


Does anyone know how many blocks should be used as mast spacers and 
their placement? mine only has 5 and are installed randomly...


Lastly, how do I know the hull # for placing on my new Mainsail?


Thank in advance for any help, pictures and advice...


Fair Winds and Following Seas.

Hari

S/V Thalassa


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Stus-List Max prop

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

If the prop is in the forward configuration when you start sailingthe shaft 
will rotate. The Max Prop literature says to put the transmission I yo reverse 
to realign the prop blades then put it in neutral.  Works for me. 

Typoed from my iPhone

Tom Buscaglia
Alera 1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
O 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660
Skype - thombusc



> On Sep 26, 2019, at 2:23 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Thu, 26 Sep 2019 06:32:11 -0400
> From: David Knecht 
> To: CnC CnC discussion list 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Max prop
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I have a 3 blade Maxprop as well.  It has worked well in forward and reverse. 
>  Has anyone figured out a way to check its feathering action?  I presume it 
> is feathering when sailing, but don?t know how to tell.  The only thing I can 
> think of would be to sail to the mooring and then dive.  Perhaps sailing 
> without the transmission locked and see if the shaft turns?  If it does not, 
> then one presumes you could not have to worry about locking the transmission 
> while sailing?  Dave
> 
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT


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Re: Stus-List Max prop

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

PYI has a spec for blade tightness.  When it needs manufactured PYI has a
program for that which will cost you roughly 1/3 the cost of an new
max-prop.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Thu, Sep 26, 2019, 11:26 AM Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> When I bought Rebecca Leah 2.5 years ago. The surveyor noticed that the
> prop blades were loose. I pulled the prop and sent it to a local Prop shop.
> I was just told that it was not repairable by them. My next step is to take
> it to PYI in Lynnwood WA for their opinion. I my be in the market for a new
> prop.
> I like the Max even worn out it performs better that both of the fixed
> pitch ones I had on my 38 Landfall. I will keep the List abreast of what I
> come up with.
>
> --
> Douglas Mountjoy
> 253-208-1412
> Port Orchard YC, WA
> Rebecca Leah
> LF39
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Air Conditioning Installation Questions -- Raw Water Supply

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Edd,

Two tips for the AC raw water install.

1. Put a valve on the discharge thru-hull.  Many installers don't do this.

2. Install a tee on the supply for a dock hose hook up.  Mine is on the
discharge of the pump.

This will allow you to do a couple things.  First, if your pump fails, you
can hook up dock water to cool the boat.  Second, you can close the
discharge valve and use dock water to blow out any pluggage between the
inlet and strainer.  That's where most of Touche's pluggage occurs.  It
never makes it to the strainer.

Probably not necessary in your area but in Louisiana's muddy waters, mud
settles out in low spots in the raw water system.  If the hose is sized
properly it won't settle when running but when it shuts off, it can.
Having a valve on each end of the system allows me to blow out the system
each way.

When I waas doing boat maintenance, I was always surprised at the amount of
mud I blew out of AC water systems when I serviced them.  Mostly it
waslarger boats with long cooling water runs but still

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1#83
Mandeville,  LA

On Thu, Sep 19, 2019, 8:58 AM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> Yesterday, I met with an AC installer on the Enterprise to cool off the
> main and aft cabin, as well as fight off mold and mildew (as I understand
> it, the expectation of growth of mold and mildew in this area is far more
> reliable than, say, David Risch actually attending a C&C Rendezvous).
>
> The plan is to sacrifice some of the aft-cabin hanging locker.
>
> Until I haul the boat again, which I don’t plan to do for another four
> years or so, I don’t have a dedicated through-hull. I’ve heard it’s not a
> good idea to tee off of the engine intake, but there is the galley sink
> drain nearby. Any issues with tee-ing off of that one? Obviously, I’d need
> to refrain from dumping chemicals into the sink while the AC is running so
> as those chemicals don’t go through the AC. Anyone know of any issues with
> that plan?
>
> Also, I’m a little perplexed as to why tee-ing off the engine intake is so
> bad. The AC is 110V AC-powered, so it’s not like I’m going to have the
> engine running and the AC going at the same time? Or can I with my
> 2000-Watt inverter and high-capacity alternator?
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
>
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Max prop

[Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List]

When I bought Rebecca Leah 2.5 years ago. The surveyor noticed that the
prop blades were loose. I pulled the prop and sent it to a local Prop shop.
I was just told that it was not repairable by them. My next step is to take
it to PYI in Lynnwood WA for their opinion. I my be in the market for a new
prop.
I like the Max even worn out it performs better that both of the fixed
pitch ones I had on my 38 Landfall. I will keep the List abreast of what I
come up with.

-- 
Douglas Mountjoy
253-208-1412
Port Orchard YC, WA
Rebecca Leah
LF39
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Re: Stus-List Rigging information.

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

The last three digits in the HIN (Hull Identification Number) on the
Transom might not be the hull number.   If the HIN starts "ZCC30..." or
"CCY30..." the digits after the "30" are probably your hull number.

Ken H.

On Thursday, 26 September 2019, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> The owner's manual does not have much rigging information. I have hull
> number 593, and there are hull numbers 1 and 7 on this list, ranging up to
> the low 600's. Lots of good information. You spoke of blocks for the main,
> do you mean the oak ones (I have six) at the partners (mast exit from the
> cabin) or the shims in the aluminum box at the base of the mast (I have
> four). As Joe said, the hull number is molded in the upper right corner of
> the transom - the last three digits are the hull number.
>
> Keep asking, there is a lot of help here.
>
> Gary Nylander
> #593 - 1980
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of HV via
CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2019 8:42 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: HV 
> Subject: Stus-List Rigging information.
>
> Hi all,
>
> Recently purchased a 1979 C&C 30 MK1, I have sent a payment to get the
> owners manual but I am unsure if it has rigging information.
>
> So I am wondering if anyone would be willing to share some images of how
> their Cunningham/Downhaul may be rigged...
>
> Additionally, for some reason the waste tank behind the bulkhead in the
head
> has been abandoned, does anyone have any information on how this was
setup?
>
> I am really liking this boat (I have owned many), she is in very good
> condition and just needs some TLC, oh I am also interested in adding a bow
> anchor roller, has anyone done this to their 30Mk1?
>
> Does anyone know how many blocks should be used as mast spacers and their
> placement? mine only has 5 and are installed randomly...
>
> Lastly, how do I know the hull # for placing on my new Mainsail?
>
>
> Thank in advance for any help, pictures and advice...
>
>
> Fair Winds and Following Seas.
>
> Hari
>
> S/V Thalassa
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
and
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Rigging information.

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

The owner's manual does not have much rigging information. I have hull
number 593, and there are hull numbers 1 and 7 on this list, ranging up to
the low 600's. Lots of good information. You spoke of blocks for the main,
do you mean the oak ones (I have six) at the partners (mast exit from the
cabin) or the shims in the aluminum box at the base of the mast (I have
four). As Joe said, the hull number is molded in the upper right corner of
the transom - the last three digits are the hull number.

Keep asking, there is a lot of help here.

Gary Nylander
#593 - 1980

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of HV via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2019 8:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: HV 
Subject: Stus-List Rigging information.

Hi all,

Recently purchased a 1979 C&C 30 MK1, I have sent a payment to get the
owners manual but I am unsure if it has rigging information.

So I am wondering if anyone would be willing to share some images of how
their Cunningham/Downhaul may be rigged...

Additionally, for some reason the waste tank behind the bulkhead in the head
has been abandoned, does anyone have any information on how this was setup?

I am really liking this boat (I have owned many), she is in very good
condition and just needs some TLC, oh I am also interested in adding a bow
anchor roller, has anyone done this to their 30Mk1?

Does anyone know how many blocks should be used as mast spacers and their
placement? mine only has 5 and are installed randomly...

Lastly, how do I know the hull # for placing on my new Mainsail?


Thank in advance for any help, pictures and advice...


Fair Winds and Following Seas.

Hari

S/V Thalassa


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Re: Stus-List Sail Numbers

[Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List]

Dennis
FYI
Interestingly, HONEY is a 1974 model (the last 39 built) and has the HIN on
the transom's starboard quarter as well as on a metal plate in the forward
end of the cockpit. Strangely, the do not completely match. The plate does
not include the moth or year of the build, the transom (real HIN) matches
the paperwork in the builder's file.

Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald
HONEY - US12788
1974 C&C 39TM (#69)
Savannah, GA 31410 USA



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On Thu, Sep 26, 2019 at 10:05 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If your boat is 1972 or older, the hull number will not be on the
>> starboard transom or quarter.  It would have been on a metal plate attached
>> somewhere in the cockpit.
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Anchor windlass on CnC33-2 ?

[Adrian Humphreys via CnC-List]

Anyone installed an anchor windlass on a 33-2?

How did you?

Thanks,

Adrian Humphreys
Epilogue, Rockport ME
C&C 33-2 
adri...@telamontech.com





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Re: Stus-List Sail Numbers

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

>
> If your boat is 1972 or older, the hull number will not be on the
> starboard transom or quarter.  It would have been on a metal plate attached
> somewhere in the cockpit.


Dennis C.

>
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Re: Stus-List Sail Numbers

[WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List]

Hari,   Sail numbers can be selected by owner, assigned by the manufacturer, 
boat class, or sailing organizations.  If you plan to join US Sailing and  sail 
in US or offshore coastal then US Sailing will assign you a number, if you 
wish.  If you are racing in a class, the class association will usually require 
a class assigned number.  Hope this helps.Bill WalkerC&C36Pentwater, Mi


-Original Message-
From: Joseph Bognar via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Joseph Bognar 
Sent: Thu, Sep 26, 2019 2:50 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigging information.

The hull number will be on the transom . I usually put one larger spacer front 
and rear the two on each side around my mast . 

Sent from Joe Bognar


> On Sep 25, 2019, at 7:41 PM, HV via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Recently purchased a 1979 C&C 30 MK1, I have sent a payment to get the owners 
> manual but I am unsure if it has rigging information.
> 
> So I am wondering if anyone would be willing to share some images of how 
> their Cunningham/Downhaul may be rigged...
> 
> Additionally, for some reason the waste tank behind the bulkhead in the head 
> has been abandoned, does anyone have any information on how this was setup?
> 
> I am really liking this boat (I have owned many), she is in very good 
> condition and just needs some TLC, oh I am also interested in adding a bow 
> anchor roller, has anyone done this to their 30Mk1?
> 
> Does anyone know how many blocks should be used as mast spacers and their 
> placement? mine only has 5 and are installed randomly...
> 
> Lastly, how do I know the hull # for placing on my new Mainsail?
> 
> 
> Thank in advance for any help, pictures and advice...
> 
> 
> Fair Winds and Following Seas.
> 
> Hari
> 
> S/V Thalassa
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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> 

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Re: Stus-List Folding & Feathering Prop Recommendations

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Hi Ken,
The J-Prop looks interesting and MaxProp now makes more easily adjustable props 
too.
I've had a Max-Prop for the last fifteen years. I installed it to recommended 
pitch and made an adjustment the following year to reduce pitch and allow 
proper RPM. No adjustments since.

Is there any reason to change the pitch on a sailboat? Have you ever altered 
yours?

Chuck S


> On September 25, 2019 at 2:57 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Bruce,
> 
> Our boat was built with a Universal diesel but was re-powered in 2001 by 
> a previous Quebec City owner.  He wanted more horse power to fight the St. 
> Lawrence River currents and tides so we now have a Yanmar 3JH2-TBE diesel.  
> This is a 47 hp. Turbo with a 3 blade feathering "J Prop", prop made in 
> Italy.  Nice combination.  Lots of go, plenty of reverse.  We're at about 
> 1100 hrs. on this combination, 400 we put on ourselves over the last 10 years.
> 
> I'd buy another J Prop if I needed one.
> 
> Ken H.
> 
> https://www.betamarinenc.com/j-prop/
> 
> 
> https://ca.binnacle.com/p10220/J-Prop-Variable-Pitch-Propeller/product_info.html
> 
> On Wednesday, 25 September 2019, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > Hello all,
> > I know this has been discussed a lot on the board in the past, but 
> given the recent discussions of over-propping on the part of flex-o-fold, I'd 
> like to re-ask the question.  The reason is that a folding prop is definitely 
> in my future, as we have a fixed 3 blade prop on the boat now.  We also sail 
> in an area where crab pots are extremely common from October through April.  
> For that reason alone I am leaning toward a folding prop.  I also saw the 
> rather well put together article in which a test of folding and feather props 
> was performed - the one touted on flex-o-fold's website.  
> > By the way, in exchanging emails with flex-o-fold, they are 
> recommending a 3 blade version, so if vibration is an issue with your two 
> blade prop, that may not apply to me.
> > With all these considerations in mind, when it comes to a 
> folding/feathering prop, what do you have, and why do you like it?
> > Looking forward to your insights,
> > Bruce Whitmore
> > 1994 C&C37/40+
> > "Astralis" ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
 
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Re: Stus-List Max prop

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I have a 3 blade Maxprop as well.  It has worked well in forward and reverse.  
Has anyone figured out a way to check its feathering action?  I presume it is 
feathering when sailing, but don’t know how to tell.  The only thing I can 
think of would be to sail to the mooring and then dive.  Perhaps sailing 
without the transmission locked and see if the shaft turns?  If it does not, 
then one presumes you could not have to worry about locking the transmission 
while sailing?  Dave


S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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