Re: Stus-List Amenities

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I installed a 12v Seafrost system on my 40. It was terrific. And so nice not to 
be dependent on ice anymore. I liked it so much that I installed the same 
system on Masquerade, my Baltic 47, though I have a separate freezer, now. 
We have a microwave here, too, but it would be way down the list if I was 
fitting out a 30 (great great boat, by the way). I don't think you have room 
for an oven, do you? If you do, keep it. Nothing like fresh baked scones or 
blueberry muffins for breakfast.
Another upgrade was an electric head, which the Mrs likes a lot. Jabsco quiet 
flush would be a good choice there.
Because out cruising is going to be pretty far and wide in coming years, the 
next thing to get installed here is a water maker that runs off our 24V house 
batteries...no, I lie. The next thing to be installed will be an electric main 
halyard/main sheet winch, which will make our lives much easier, even if it 
does mean having the halyard tail in the cockpit, which I hate as it gets in 
the way of lounging.
Andy
Aboard Masquerade
Cuttyhunk

Andrew Burton
26 Beacon Hill
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Aug 28, 2020, at 14:41, Lewis Cooke via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
>   I Was hoping to get everyone's opinion, I am finishing my 72 C&C 30-1 and I 
> am stuck on what  appliances to install. Fridge, propane stove, microwave, 
> one of those coolers thats a fridge/freezer. Obviously the fridge and 
> microwave would be dependent on shore power and we do not spend a lot of time 
> at the dock, so what do most of you have?
>   Regards
> Lewis
> S/V For Play
> C&C 30-1 hull #45
> Lorain, OH
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Meet & Greet Virtual Rendezvous

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Sorry I missed the invite.  My band, Grayhound Bus practices Wednesday or 
Thursday nights.  Friday's better for me.  I'm lucky to play bass and sing in a 
five piece band doing 70's classic rock, Motown and Blues.  Lots of fun.

Please keep me on the invite list.

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute



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Re: Stus-List Meet & Greet Virtual Rendezvous

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Stu,

Sorry I missed the last one. Looking forward to the next! 

All the best, 

Edd

———-
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
C&C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
www.StarshipSailing.com
———-
914.774.9767   | Mobile
———-
Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On Aug 28, 2020, at 9:10 PM, Stu via CnC-List  wrote:


We have now had 2 meet and greet and social time get togethers via zoom.  Both 
were a huge success and favourable reports from the attendees.
 
I now have a subscription to zoom and will plan on at least 1 virtual 
rendezvous a month.  Don’t be shy – come and join us.
 
I will send out an invitation email soon.
 
Stu
p.s. thanks to those who attended – glad we could put a face on some names.
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Re: Stus-List C&C Meet & Greet Virtual Rendezvous

[Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List]

Any night but Thursday works for me. On Thursday I have cigar/beer club. A man 
has to have priorities. Doug Mountjoysv Rebecca Leah C&C Landfall 39Port 
Orchard yacht club
null___

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Re: Stus-List solar panel connector

[Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List]

You might try a trolling motor connector. 
https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiOtYicnb_rAhWWHq0GHV8sAt4YABASGgJwdg&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESQOD2Qlk9x2Q9eli-LbRcs2WtyHBRTbwg2vwr1ztLggJSNu7XODBHlpo7ZgBIsMTLrsWcrLWuIPVWHKKBQPkVLSg&sig=AOD64_3kklYLJiB3oqzzU2iLc8cxpwDscw&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwi7s_-bnb_rAhXTOn0KHSMvBSMQwg96BQgNEOcB&adurl=Doug
 Mountjoysv Rebecca Leah C&C Landfall 39Port Orchard yacht club
null___

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Stus-List Meet & Greet Virtual Rendezvous

[Stu via CnC-List]

We have now had 2 meet and greet and social time get togethers via zoom.  Both 
were a huge success and favourable reports from the attendees.

I now have a subscription to zoom and will plan on at least 1 virtual 
rendezvous a month.  Don’t be shy – come and join us.

I will send out an invitation email soon.

Stu
p.s. thanks to those who attended – glad we could put a face on some names.___

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Re: Stus-List Amenities

[Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List]

I'm a full time live aboard, and I don't have anything in the galley that won't 
operate on 12v. I have a manual coffee grinder, stove top percolator. My 
fridge/freezer is built in. Only items that are 120v are my space heaters, 
dehumidifier, laptop, and battery powered tools. Doug Mountjoysv Rebecca Leah 
C&C Landfall 39Port Orchard yacht club
null___

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Re: Stus-List C&C Meet & Greet Virtual Rendezvous

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Me too ! Tried to sign on late no go :(

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On Aug 28, 2020, at 8:45 PM, detroito91 via CnC-List  
wrote:


Stu...me too. I WILL attend the next one
Jim schwartz



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


 Original message 
From: Allen Miles via CnC-List 
Date: 8/28/20 1:57 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: CNC 
Cc: Allen Miles 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C Meet & Greet Virtual Rendezvous

Stu,

Sorry I had a scheduling conflict and had to miss this event. First one was 
great/

Allen Miles

On Mon, Aug 24, 2020 at 5:01 PM Stu via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi folks --

I have planned for out 2nd Meet and Greet Virtual Rendezvous for:
Thursday,  Aug 27, 2020 07:00 PM Central Time (US and Canada) – should be 
around 4pm Pacific Time.

You must register in advance for this meeting at:
https://us02web.zoom.us/meeting/register/tZYodeyupj8tH9RmFtvreygqYzhwfk6uupAi

After registering, you will receive a confirmation email containing information 
about joining the meeting.

Our first rendezvous was a great success and everyone was pleased to finally 
put faces on names.  Thursday night will be your chance.

Hope to see everyone there.  Masks not necessary but please maintain social 
distancing.

Stay safe
Stu
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___

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___

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Re: Stus-List C&C Meet & Greet Virtual Rendezvous

[detroito91 via CnC-List]

Stu...me too. I WILL attend the next one Jim schwartz Sent from my Verizon, 
Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Allen Miles via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/28/20  1:57 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: CNC 
 Cc: Allen Miles  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List C&C Meet & Greet Virtual Rendezvous Stu,Sorry I had a scheduling 
conflict and had to miss this event. First one was great/Allen MilesOn Mon, Aug 
24, 2020 at 5:01 PM Stu via CnC-List  wrote:



Hi folks -- 
 
I have planned for out 2nd Meet and Greet Virtual Rendezvous for:
Thursday,  Aug 27, 2020 07:00 PM Central Time (US and Canada) – should 
be around 4pm Pacific Time.
 
You must register in advance for this meeting at:
https://us02web.zoom.us/meeting/register/tZYodeyupj8tH9RmFtvreygqYzhwfk6uupAi 

 
After registering, you will receive a confirmation email containing 
information about joining the meeting.
 
Our first rendezvous was a great success and everyone was pleased to 
finally put faces on names.  Thursday night will be your chance.
 
Hope to see everyone there.  Masks not necessary but please maintain 
social distancing.
 
Stay safe  
Stu
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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Re: Stus-List Amenities

[Joseph Bognar via CnC-List]

I have a 79 30 Mk1 . It used to have refrigeration . I now use ice. It is well 
insulated . I have two butane stoves. They can be used in the cockpit . 
> 

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Re: Stus-List solar panel connector

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Lol - worked for HUBBELL for 20 years and get kinda peevish on low-rent 
connectors too.It amazes me that the automobile cigarette lighter has left 
us this klunky legacy.
After military/aerospace The industrial automation biz probably has the best 
harsh environment and ip68 (ingress protection) rated low voltage and current 
stuff.  https://bradharrisonsales.com/mc_attachable_connectors.htm
Just an example, the first google hit.  there are broad families of these and 
many other manufacturers.  Turck, Phoenix, Brad Harrison, others.  If you 
can’t adapt a molded cordset (likely the most common) Look for ‘field 
attachable’ or ‘field wireable’ ‘mini-change’ etc   Search also ‘devicenet’ 
connectors.  You will notIce that a micro-change (might be nano.)   
devicenet connector is the same as nmea2000.
Dave 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 28, 2020, at 3:10 PM, Bill Coleman  wrote:
> 
> 
> That is one of my pet peeves.
> I cannot understand why there has been no effort to establish a standard for 
> 12 V receptacle, other than a cigarette lighter receptacle, which is a 
> ridiculous  connector.
>  
> I refuse to use those on my boat, as they are mostly for device charging 
> anyways, so I use a Powerwerx  USB Fast charge, which I realize won’t solve 
> your trickle charging, but the
> PanelPole might.
>  
> https://powerwerx.com/panel-mounts
>  
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David 
> Knecht via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 1:39 PM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list
> Cc: David Knecht
> Subject: Stus-List solar panel connector
>  
> When I set up a solar panel for trickle charging the battery, I used a 
> cigarette lighter type receptacle and plug to run the solar panel wire 
> through the bulkhead 
> (https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?part=8528&engine=adwords&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-qHNvba-6wIVxdSzCh3ByQDYEAQYBCABEgLIQfD_BwE).
>   
> However, I have found those plugs to not be reliable and don’t maintain 
> contact when left for long periods.  So I am looking for a better plug 
> system.  
>  
> I am thinking of something like this:
> https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=perko-watertight-cable-outlet-and-plug-assembly&path=-1|328|2289986|2289944|2289946&id=846701
>  
> Any suggestions?  Dave
>  
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
>  
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Re: Stus-List solar panel connector

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Maybe this 400 ‘series Buccaneer.

 

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bulgin/PX0411-03S-5560?qs=xh6E4zEJdPnb8oA%252BISu0FQ%3D%3D
 

 
&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1qL6BRCmARIsADV9JtaYoMRPdFlv1rWy7kNvLe04WJJBL3UW6gnRXB3RPKBTQmeEPd2KLlUaAj_hEALw_wcB

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 3:56 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Re: Stus-List solar panel connector

 

I have encountered several “waterproof” connectors like this and the problem is 
that the cover is watertight, but when you use it, it is not covered and so not 
watertight.  I looked more carefully at the Perko I linked to and it is also 
not watertight when the cover is off.  Dave

 

S/V Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT








On Aug 28, 2020, at 3:10 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

That is one of my pet peeves.

I cannot understand why there has been no effort to establish a standard for 12 
V receptacle, other than a cigarette lighter receptacle, which is a ridiculous  
connector.

 

I refuse to use those on my boat, as they are mostly for device charging 
anyways, so I use a Powerwerx  USB Fast charge, which I realize won’t solve 
your trickle charging, but the 

PanelPole might.

 

  https://powerwerx.com/panel-mounts

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [  
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 1:39 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Stus-List solar panel connector

 

When I set up a solar panel for trickle charging the battery, I used a 
cigarette lighter type receptacle and plug to run the solar panel wire through 
the bulkhead ( 

 
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?part=8528&engine=adwords&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-qHNvba-6wIVxdSzCh3ByQDYEAQYBCABEgLIQfD_BwE).
  

However, I have found those plugs to not be reliable and don’t maintain contact 
when left for long periods.  So I am looking for a better plug system.  

 

I am thinking of something like this:

 

 
https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=perko-watertight-cable-outlet-and-plug-assembly&path=-1|328|2289986|2289944|2289946&id=846701

 

Any suggestions?  Dave

 

S/V Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

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Re: Stus-List Amenities

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Lewis, 

My built-in 12V fridge has a freezer box inside it. It was pretty easy to 
install and works very well.  However, if you’re not spending a lot of time at 
the dock, keep in mind that a fridge will probably pull up to 10 or more amps 
at any give time. I think mine pulls about 7 when the compressor is on. I have 
a fairly large bank of batteries, but certainly can’t keep it running for long 
periods of time without running the engine running or shore power charging to 
keep the system from bottoming out.  

I have not had a need for a microwave, but we do have a small coffeemaker. We 
also use the propane stove top often, but have never used the oven other than 
for storing pots to be used on the stovetop. 

I’ve often considered removing the oven, adding a large amount of storage, then 
installing an electric cooktop. This would also give me added storage in the 
starboard aft locker as I’d no longer need propane tanks. Doubt I’ll ever do 
that, but it’s fun to think about. Maybe if the oven/stove breaks…. 

Is it just me, or is something off when Dave Risch uses the word “reliable”? 
https://youtu.be/0WKRIDnFDls  

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 











On Aug 28, 2020, at 2:50 PM, David Risch via CnC-List  
wrote:

I don’t miss a freezer or a microwave.   12volt fridge is very reliable and an 
easy install.
 
From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf Of Lewis Cooke via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 2:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Lewis Cooke mailto:lewiscooke...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Amenities
 
Hello all,
  I Was hoping to get everyone's opinion, I am finishing my 72 C&C 30-1 and I 
am stuck on what  appliances to install. Fridge, propane stove, microwave, one 
of those coolers thats a fridge/freezer. Obviously the fridge and microwave 
would be dependent on shore power and we do not spend a lot of time at the 
dock, so what do most of you have?
  Regards
Lewis
S/V For Play
C&C 30-1 hull #45
Lorain, OH
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Re: Stus-List solar panel connector

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

I would recommend MC4 connectors. See: 
https://powerwerx.com/mc4-solar-cable-connectors-5 
 

I have them on my panel for over a decade now (Damn, I’m getting old)


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 











On Aug 28, 2020, at 4:00 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List  
wrote:

This looks like what I want and is also available on Amazon:

https://12vtechnology.com/collections/connectors-waterproof/products/new-waterproof-two-2-pin-wire-terminal-solar-panel-connector-marine-w-boot-12v
 


S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT




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Re: Stus-List solar panel connector

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

This looks like what I want and is also available on Amazon:

https://12vtechnology.com/collections/connectors-waterproof/products/new-waterproof-two-2-pin-wire-terminal-solar-panel-connector-marine-w-boot-12v

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT




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Re: Stus-List solar panel connector

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I have encountered several “waterproof” connectors like this and the problem is 
that the cover is watertight, but when you use it, it is not covered and so not 
watertight.  I looked more carefully at the Perko I linked to and it is also 
not watertight when the cover is off.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



> On Aug 28, 2020, at 3:10 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> That is one of my pet peeves.
> I cannot understand why there has been no effort to establish a standard for 
> 12 V receptacle, other than a cigarette lighter receptacle, which is a 
> ridiculous  connector.
>  
> I refuse to use those on my boat, as they are mostly for device charging 
> anyways, so I use a Powerwerx  USB Fast charge, which I realize won’t solve 
> your trickle charging, but the 
> PanelPole might.
>  
> https://powerwerx.com/panel-mounts 
>  
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of David Knecht via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 1:39 PM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list
> Cc: David Knecht
> Subject: Stus-List solar panel connector
>  
> When I set up a solar panel for trickle charging the battery, I used a 
> cigarette lighter type receptacle and plug to run the solar panel wire 
> through the bulkhead 
> (https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?part=8528&engine=adwords&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-qHNvba-6wIVxdSzCh3ByQDYEAQYBCABEgLIQfD_BwE
>  
> ).
>   
> However, I have found those plugs to not be reliable and don’t maintain 
> contact when left for long periods.  So I am looking for a better plug 
> system.  
>  
> I am thinking of something like this:
> https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=perko-watertight-cable-outlet-and-plug-assembly&path=-1|328|2289986|2289944|2289946&id=846701
>  
> 
>  
> Any suggestions?  Dave
>  
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 

___

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Re: Stus-List Freya Keel work 35-3

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I used some black stuff I got from McMaster-Carr (can’t remember, but they list 
the characteristics of each of their plastics). It wasn’t as hard or expensive 
as the red stuff which Randy used, but I put a thin piece in a big vise and 
couldn’t make a dent in it. So, it is now my crosswise mast support blocking. 
Filled the sump area with about a gallon of epoxy to keep the water out – it 
now has a slope to where the bilge pump is. And, with a little 2QM15, a crow 
bar at each end in turn allowed me to keep the engine in place while replacing 
motor mounts. Shims showed no movement so I bolted it up and it has been great 
for over a year.

 

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dave S via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 9:55 AM
To: Josh Muckley 
Cc: Dave S ; C&C List 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Freya Keel work 35-3

 

I should be clearer - By epoxy glass I mean a dense layup vs filled putty.  
That said I don’t know the deflection data For each material  etc etc etc  but 
I do know that my 33-2 wedges are not used on all the bolts and where not, the 
compression bears on the layup via a fender washer.  This suggests the layup 
adequately resists compression, and that the AL wedges are there as wedges only 
to address the slope of the bilge.

Filled putty?  Agree completely, it’s the wrong stuff. 

 

Dave 

Sent from my iPhone





On Aug 27, 2020, at 9:03 PM, Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com> > wrote:



Alan, 

 

Epoxy and glass is a bit different than G10 (which is technically fiberglass 
and epoxy.)  The rated compression and deflection strength are competitive with 
any other material.  Especially when you get to the 1/2 inch thickness.

 

No?

Checked 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C&C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

On Thu, Aug 27, 2020, 18:35 ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Don't use epoxy/glass to replace the wedges. There's tremendous pressure on 
them when the keep bolts are tightened, and they won't hold up. Have them made 
out of stainless.

 

Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

 

 

 

On Thu, Aug 27, 2020 at 2:31 PM Dave S via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Plenty of detail on keel work here- mine and others.  

 

https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/p/c-33-mk-ii-keel-and-mast-step-work.html?m=1 

 

 

I think any sense epoxy/glass would be fine to replace the wedges.  

 

You can also use ‘tack tape’ reversed to protect the bolts.  One advantage of 
this vs  wax is you can build layers for clearance.  

 

Good luck with the project!

 

Dave 

33-2 (same dna as the 35-3)

Sent from my iPhone





On Aug 27, 2020, at 2:10 PM, David Swensen mailto:ka123dswense...@gmail.com> > wrote:



 

 

Fellow listers,

I have moved Freya to my backyard and started work on the keel hull joint. She 
has on the hard for about 4 weeks. I opened up thekeel hull joint and have 
raised the hull a few inches.   The forward bolt is still draining ( and it 
smells?). 

The most aft bolt is the one that was leaking enough to set off my bilge pump 
every 4 minutes. The inside of the hull was compressed under the washers on 
this bolt. I think this will need to be ground out and filled

I have added a link to some pictures.

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/uoZHWJbR2jH8Wb6F6 



 

My questions:

 

I cannot lift the hull entirely off of the keel. Any suggestions on how to 
repair the compressed area without epoxy bonding to the  bolt?  I was planning 
on a 1/2 inch G10 backing plate before putting  the washers on.

 

It looks like I will need to excavate the space under the mast step. It feels 
and sounds solid, but apparently there is water inside, because it is still 
draining.  What is the best material to fill this space? 

 

Two of the middle bolts had aluminum wedges under the washers because of the 
angle of the keel sump. One was corroded to dust. There was not much left of 
the other. Can I use G10 to replace these, or should I have them fabricated 
from stainless steel?.

 

One of the pictures shows the placement of the jackstands. I am open to input 
on their placement. Is it sufficient to hold the hull for an extended time?

 

Thanks for any input. 

 

David Swensen

Freya   35 MK 3

On the Hard in Beverly, MA

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Re: Stus-List solar panel connector

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

That is one of my pet peeves.

I cannot understand why there has been no effort to establish a standard for 12 
V receptacle, other than a cigarette lighter receptacle, which is a ridiculous  
connector.

 

I refuse to use those on my boat, as they are mostly for device charging 
anyways, so I use a Powerwerx  USB Fast charge, which I realize won’t solve 
your trickle charging, but the 

PanelPole might.

 

https://powerwerx.com/panel-mounts

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 1:39 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Stus-List solar panel connector

 

When I set up a solar panel for trickle charging the battery, I used a 
cigarette lighter type receptacle and plug to run the solar panel wire through 
the bulkhead 
(https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?part=8528 

 
&engine=adwords&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-qHNvba-6wIVxdSzCh3ByQDYEAQYBCABEgLIQfD_BwE). 
 

However, I have found those plugs to not be reliable and don’t maintain contact 
when left for long periods.  So I am looking for a better plug system.  

 

I am thinking of something like this:

https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=perko-watertight-cable-outlet-and-plug-assembly
 

 &path=-1|328|2289986|2289944|2289946&id=846701

 

Any suggestions?  Dave

 

S/V Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

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Re: Stus-List Amenities

[David Risch via CnC-List]

I don’t miss a freezer or a microwave.   12volt fridge is very reliable and an 
easy install.

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Lewis Cooke via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 2:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Lewis Cooke 
Subject: Stus-List Amenities

Hello all,
  I Was hoping to get everyone's opinion, I am finishing my 72 C&C 30-1 and I 
am stuck on what  appliances to install. Fridge, propane stove, microwave, one 
of those coolers thats a fridge/freezer. Obviously the fridge and microwave 
would be dependent on shore power and we do not spend a lot of time at the 
dock, so what do most of you have?
  Regards
Lewis
S/V For Play
C&C 30-1 hull #45
Lorain, OH
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Stus-List Amenities

[Lewis Cooke via CnC-List]

Hello all,
  I Was hoping to get everyone's opinion, I am finishing my 72 C&C 30-1 and
I am stuck on what  appliances to install. Fridge, propane stove,
microwave, one of those coolers thats a fridge/freezer. Obviously the
fridge and microwave would be dependent on shore power and we do not spend
a lot of time at the dock, so what do most of you have?
  Regards
Lewis
S/V For Play
C&C 30-1 hull #45
Lorain, OH
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Re: Stus-List solar panel connector

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

i'm not surprised the SeaDog's didn't hold up in the weather.
You could go with MC4 connectors, but if you remove the panel frequently it
would be a pain.

Joel

On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 1:40 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> When I set up a solar panel for trickle charging the battery, I used a
> cigarette lighter type receptacle and plug to run the solar panel wire
> through the bulkhead (
> https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?part=8528&engine=adwords&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-qHNvba-6wIVxdSzCh3ByQDYEAQYBCABEgLIQfD_BwE).
>
> However, I have found those plugs to not be reliable and don’t maintain
> contact when left for long periods.  So I am looking for a better plug
> system.
>
> I am thinking of something like this:
>
> https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=perko-watertight-cable-outlet-and-plug-assembly&path=-1|328|2289986|2289944|2289946&id=846701
>
> Any suggestions?  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Joel
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Re: Stus-List C&C Meet & Greet Virtual Rendezvous

[Allen Miles via CnC-List]

Stu,

Sorry I had a scheduling conflict and had to miss this event. First one was
great/

Allen Miles

On Mon, Aug 24, 2020 at 5:01 PM Stu via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi folks --
>
> I have planned for out 2nd Meet and Greet Virtual Rendezvous for:
> Thursday,  Aug 27, 2020 07:00 PM Central Time (US and Canada) – should be
> around 4pm Pacific Time.
>
> You must register in advance for this meeting at:
>
> https://us02web.zoom.us/meeting/register/tZYodeyupj8tH9RmFtvreygqYzhwfk6uupAi
>
> After registering, you will receive a confirmation email containing
> information about joining the meeting.
>
> Our first rendezvous was a great success and everyone was pleased to
> finally put faces on names.  Thursday night will be your chance.
>
> Hope to see everyone there.  Masks not necessary but please maintain
> social distancing.
>
> Stay safe
> Stu
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List solar panel connector

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi Joel- Tried one of those also.  They are fine for inside computer etc. but 
left out in the sun and weather for months, it seemed to loose the spring 
action so loses contact over time.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



> On Aug 28, 2020, at 1:49 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Dave, 
> 
> I use the cheaper SeaDog equivalent for my 12 volt computer and monitor 
> without issues.  If your panel is 50w or less it would be adequate.
> 
> Joel
> 
> On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 1:40 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> When I set up a solar panel for trickle charging the battery, I used a 
> cigarette lighter type receptacle and plug to run the solar panel wire 
> through the bulkhead 
> (https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?part=8528&engine=adwords&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-qHNvba-6wIVxdSzCh3ByQDYEAQYBCABEgLIQfD_BwE
>  
> ).
>   
> However, I have found those plugs to not be reliable and don’t maintain 
> contact when left for long periods.  So I am looking for a better plug 
> system.  
> 
> I am thinking of something like this:
> https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=perko-watertight-cable-outlet-and-plug-assembly&path=-1|328|2289986|2289944|2289946&id=846701
>  
> 
> 
> Any suggestions?  Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List solar panel connector

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Dave,

I use the cheaper SeaDog equivalent for my 12 volt computer and monitor
without issues.  If your panel is 50w or less it would be adequate.

Joel

On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 1:40 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> When I set up a solar panel for trickle charging the battery, I used a
> cigarette lighter type receptacle and plug to run the solar panel wire
> through the bulkhead (
> https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?part=8528&engine=adwords&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-qHNvba-6wIVxdSzCh3ByQDYEAQYBCABEgLIQfD_BwE).
>
> However, I have found those plugs to not be reliable and don’t maintain
> contact when left for long periods.  So I am looking for a better plug
> system.
>
> I am thinking of something like this:
>
> https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=perko-watertight-cable-outlet-and-plug-assembly&path=-1|328|2289986|2289944|2289946&id=846701
>
> Any suggestions?  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Joel
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Stus-List solar panel connector

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

When I set up a solar panel for trickle charging the battery, I used a 
cigarette lighter type receptacle and plug to run the solar panel wire through 
the bulkhead 
(https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?part=8528&engine=adwords&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-qHNvba-6wIVxdSzCh3ByQDYEAQYBCABEgLIQfD_BwE).
  
However, I have found those plugs to not be reliable and don’t maintain contact 
when left for long periods.  So I am looking for a better plug system.  

I am thinking of something like this:
https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=perko-watertight-cable-outlet-and-plug-assembly&path=-1|328|2289986|2289944|2289946&id=846701

Any suggestions?  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Freya Keel work 35-3

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I have heard of one case where concrete was used to fill the void under the
mast step

On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 10:55 AM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I should be clearer - By epoxy glass I mean a dense layup vs filled
> putty.  That said I don’t know the deflection data For each material  etc
> etc etc  but I do know that my 33-2 wedges are not used on all the bolts
> and where not, the compression bears on the layup via a fender washer.
> This suggests the layup adequately resists compression, and that the AL
> wedges are there as wedges only to address the slope of the bilge.
> Filled putty?  Agree completely, it’s the wrong stuff.
>
> Dave
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 27, 2020, at 9:03 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
>
> 
>
> Alan,
>
> Epoxy and glass is a bit different than G10 (which is technically
> fiberglass and epoxy.)  The rated compression and deflection strength are
> competitive with any other material.  Especially when you get to the 1/2
> inch thickness.
>
> No?
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Thu, Aug 27, 2020, 18:35 ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Don't use epoxy/glass to replace the wedges. There's tremendous pressure
>> on them when the keep bolts are tightened, and they won't hold up. Have
>> them made out of stainless.
>>
>> Alan Bergen
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> Rose City YC
>> Portland, OR
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Aug 27, 2020 at 2:31 PM Dave S via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Plenty of detail on keel work here- mine and others.
>>>
>>>
>>> https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/p/c-33-mk-ii-keel-and-mast-step-work.html?m=1
>>> 
>>>
>>> I think any sense epoxy/glass would be fine to replace the wedges.
>>>
>>> You can also use ‘tack tape’ reversed to protect the bolts.  One
>>> advantage of this vs  wax is you can build layers for clearance.
>>>
>>> Good luck with the project!
>>>
>>> Dave
>>> 33-2 (same dna as the 35-3)
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Aug 27, 2020, at 2:10 PM, David Swensen 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>> Fellow listers,
>>> I have moved Freya to my backyard and started work on the keel hull
>>> joint. She has on the hard for about 4 weeks. I opened up thekeel hull
>>> joint and have raised the hull a few inches.   The forward bolt is still
>>> draining ( and it smells?).
>>> The most aft bolt is the one that was leaking enough to set off my bilge
>>> pump every 4 minutes. The inside of the hull was compressed under the
>>> washers on this bolt. I think this will need to be ground out and filled
>>> I have added a link to some pictures.
>>>
>>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/uoZHWJbR2jH8Wb6F6
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>> My questions:
>>>
>>> I cannot lift the hull entirely off of the keel. Any suggestions on how
>>> to repair the compressed area without epoxy bonding to the  bolt?  I was
>>> planning on a 1/2 inch G10 backing plate before putting  the washers on.
>>>
>>> It looks like I will need to excavate the space under the mast step. It
>>> feels and sounds solid, but apparently there is water inside, because it is
>>> still draining.  What is the best material to fill this space?
>>>
>>> Two of the middle bolts had aluminum wedges under the washers because of
>>> the angle of the keel sump. One was corroded to dust. There was not much
>>> left of the other. Can I use G10 to replace these, or should I have them
>>> fabricated from stainless steel?.
>>>
>>> One of the pictures shows the placement of the jackstands. I am open to
>>> input on their placement. Is it sufficient to hold the hull for an extended
>>> time?
>>>
>>> Thanks for any input.
>>>
>>> David Swensen
>>> Freya   35 MK 3
>>> On the Hard in Beverly, MA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --
>>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!9-CDindOcxAQN2R4qFnUPdZ3BJMEv42YRT5k_1ajVsg1sQAYGHOmVyV9bid3sMbbqTc$
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
>
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you wan

Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I (meaning my boat yard) have replaced motor mounts a couple times in my ‘83 
LF38.  Sounds like you are overdue.  The back ones are the toughest.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 
(Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)

> On Aug 28, 2020, at 9:51 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Some people have had success putting something strong and inflatable under 
> the engine to raise it, something like this: 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PL1ST_gZbt4
> 
> Ken H.
> 
>> On Fri, 28 Aug 2020 at 10:32, John Conklin via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> David, 
>> I believe my vibration is also due to original Motor Mounts as well on my 
>> 1983 - 37. Any other tips on the replacing? I asked a mechanic and he said 
>> they needed a special tool to raise the engine? Also No idea how I am 
>> getting to back ones with out removing fuel tank Which is nice new plastic 
>> type but placed in starboard lazzarette  making  all entry to aft section 
>> rudder and motor Difficult 
>> Thanks!
>> 
>> John Conklin 
>> S/V Halcyon
>> S/V Heartbeat
>> www.flirtingwithfire.com
>> 
>> 
>>> On Aug 24, 2020, at 12:45 PM, David Risch via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Chuck...replaced my motor mounts my self.   Not that hard.   Unless that V 
>>> drive makes it that hard.  
>>> 
>>> Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.
>>> 
>>> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Chuck Gilchrest 
>>> via CnC-List 
>>> Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 12:40:45 PM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>>> Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed
>>>  
>>> Peter,
>>> 
>>> My 1983 LF 35 came with a Yanmar 3HM with a 3 blade fixed prop.  It’s 
>>> happiest around 2200 RPM at roughly 6 knots.  Anything more than that it 
>>> sounds like the hull is shaking apart. Not a lot of sound deadening in 
>>> general with that diesel, but it gets pretty loud at higher RPMs. Since I 
>>> replaced the shaft, cutlass bearing, installed a dripless shaft seal when 
>>> purchased 4 years ago, vibration is likely motor mounts which are probably 
>>> original.
>>> 
>>> Someday…
>>> 
>>> Chuck Gilchrest
>>> 
>>> Half Magic
>>> 
>>> 1983 35 Landfall
>>> 
>>> Padanaram, MA
>>> 
>>> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Peter 
>>> Cowenhoven via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 10:18 AM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: Peter Cowenhoven 
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I've got a Westerbeke 33 with a 2 blade folding prop.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I would say I do 7 knots at about 2700 -2800 rpm pretty consistently.
>>> 
>>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 12:53 PM, Rob Hamlin via CnC-List
>>> 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi
>>> 
>>> What is everyone’s motor/ rpm optimal motoring speed? 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Thanks
>>> 
>>> Rob
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed

[David Risch via CnC-List]

Scissor jack worked just fine for me.

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 10:01 AM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed

I've heard of people using a basketball.  FWIW

Joel

On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 9:51 AM Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Some people have had success putting something strong and inflatable under the 
engine to raise it, something like this: 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PL1ST_gZbt4

Ken H.

On Fri, 28 Aug 2020 at 10:32, John Conklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
David,
I believe my vibration is also due to original Motor Mounts as well on my 1983 
- 37. Any other tips on the replacing? I asked a mechanic and he said they 
needed a special tool to raise the engine? Also No idea how I am getting to 
back ones with out removing fuel tank Which is nice new plastic type but placed 
in starboard lazzarette  making  all entry to aft section rudder and motor 
Difficult
Thanks!
John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com



On Aug 24, 2020, at 12:45 PM, David Risch via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Chuck...replaced my motor mounts my self.   Not that hard.   Unless that V 
drive makes it that hard.
Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.


From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 12:40:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest mailto:csgilchr...@comcast.net>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed


Peter,

My 1983 LF 35 came with a Yanmar 3HM with a 3 blade fixed prop.  It’s happiest 
around 2200 RPM at roughly 6 knots.  Anything more than that it sounds like the 
hull is shaking apart. Not a lot of sound deadening in general with that 
diesel, but it gets pretty loud at higher RPMs. Since I replaced the shaft, 
cutlass bearing, installed a dripless shaft seal when purchased 4 years ago, 
vibration is likely motor mounts which are probably original.

Someday…

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf 
Of Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 10:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Peter Cowenhoven mailto:pscowenho...@yahoo.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed



I've got a Westerbeke 33 with a 2 blade folding prop.



I would say I do 7 knots at about 2700 -2800 rpm pretty consistently.

Sent from Yahoo Mail on 
Android



On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 12:53 PM, Rob Hamlin via CnC-List

mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hi

What is everyone’s motor/ rpm optimal motoring speed?



Thanks

Rob







Sent from my iPhone

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--
Joel
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Re: Stus-List Freya Keel work 35-3

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Thanks for your kind words and to Bruno for his but that write up and solution 
is based on the help I received from others on this list (referred to and 
quoted on the blog) who had addressed the problem before I did.   All I did was 
document that and my own variations on their themes. Credit where due and 
I’m glad it helps as I’m sure those others are.  Yes this list is invaluable.

In answer to your question - imo you should bed the keel at the end.  get 
everything clean dry and prepped  before starting any finishing and in any 
case, rebedding will require tightening the keel bolts, which you can’t do till 
your done the repair.  If you can lift the hull off the keel without a lot of 
hassle and expense and get those long bolts out of the way your life will be 
easier.  The two are a trade off.  

Holes - I’d just Empty the cavity Of wet putty as a priority.  Do that and you 
won’t need to drill any holes.  I drilled to investigate the amount of water 
trapped, next time (lol) I won’t bother.  you already know all you need to know 
about the water ingress. 

Plan and visualize your steps.

Dave

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 28, 2020, at 9:30 AM, David Swensen  wrote:
> 
> 
> Wow. You guys are awesome. Great info. Dave S, Your blog will be my bible 
> over the next couple of months.
> I get the impression I should rebed the keel hull joint before addressing the 
> mast step cavity.  But I should drill into that cavity to accelerate the 
> draining/ drying first? Each time I raise the hull by giving the all the 
> jackstands a few quarter turns, that front bolt drains more water. 
> 
> Thanks again to all! And thank you Stu for the list. I will make another 
> purchase/ donation soon. This list is invaluable.
> David
> 

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Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I've heard of people using a basketball.  FWIW

Joel

On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 9:51 AM Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Some people have had success putting something strong and inflatable under
> the engine to raise it, something like this:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PL1ST_gZbt4
>
> Ken H.
>
> On Fri, 28 Aug 2020 at 10:32, John Conklin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> David,
>> I believe my vibration is also due to original Motor Mounts as well on my
>> 1983 - 37. Any other tips on the replacing? I asked a mechanic and he said
>> they needed a special tool to raise the engine? Also No idea how I am
>> getting to back ones with out removing fuel tank Which is nice new plastic
>> type but placed in starboard lazzarette  making  all entry to aft section
>> rudder and motor Difficult
>> Thanks!
>>
>> John Conklin
>> S/V Halcyon
>> S/V Heartbeat
>> www.flirtingwithfire.com
>>
>>
>> On Aug 24, 2020, at 12:45 PM, David Risch via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> 
>> Chuck...replaced my motor mounts my self.   Not that hard.   Unless that
>> V drive makes it that hard.
>>
>> Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.
>>
>> --
>> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Chuck
>> Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Monday, August 24, 2020 12:40:45 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> *Cc:* Chuck Gilchrest 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed
>>
>>
>> Peter,
>>
>> My 1983 LF 35 came with a Yanmar 3HM with a 3 blade fixed prop.  It’s
>> happiest around 2200 RPM at roughly 6 knots.  Anything more than that it
>> sounds like the hull is shaking apart. Not a lot of sound deadening in
>> general with that diesel, but it gets pretty loud at higher RPMs. Since I
>> replaced the shaft, cutlass bearing, installed a dripless shaft seal when
>> purchased 4 years ago, vibration is likely motor mounts which are probably
>> original.
>>
>> Someday…
>>
>> Chuck Gilchrest
>>
>> Half Magic
>>
>> 1983 35 Landfall
>>
>> Padanaram, MA
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Peter
>> Cowenhoven via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Monday, August 24, 2020 10:18 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Peter Cowenhoven 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed
>>
>>
>>
>> I've got a Westerbeke 33 with a 2 blade folding prop.
>>
>>
>>
>> I would say I do 7 knots at about 2700 -2800 rpm pretty consistently.
>>
>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 12:53 PM, Rob Hamlin via CnC-List
>>
>>  wrote:
>>
>> Hi
>>
>> What is everyone’s motor/ rpm optimal motoring speed?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Rob
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> ___
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Joel
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Re: Stus-List Freya Keel work 35-3

[Dave S via CnC-List]

I should be clearer - By epoxy glass I mean a dense layup vs filled putty.  
That said I don’t know the deflection data For each material  etc etc etc  but 
I do know that my 33-2 wedges are not used on all the bolts and where not, the 
compression bears on the layup via a fender washer.  This suggests the layup 
adequately resists compression, and that the AL wedges are there as wedges only 
to address the slope of the bilge.
Filled putty?  Agree completely, it’s the wrong stuff. 

Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 27, 2020, at 9:03 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
> 
> 
> Alan, 
> 
> Epoxy and glass is a bit different than G10 (which is technically fiberglass 
> and epoxy.)  The rated compression and deflection strength are competitive 
> with any other material.  Especially when you get to the 1/2 inch thickness.
> 
> No?
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
>> On Thu, Aug 27, 2020, 18:35 ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Don't use epoxy/glass to replace the wedges. There's tremendous pressure on 
>> them when the keep bolts are tightened, and they won't hold up. Have them 
>> made out of stainless.
>> 
>> Alan Bergen
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> Rose City YC
>> Portland, OR
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Thu, Aug 27, 2020 at 2:31 PM Dave S via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> Plenty of detail on keel work here- mine and others.  
>>> 
>>> https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/p/c-33-mk-ii-keel-and-mast-step-work.html?m=1
>>> 
>>> I think any sense epoxy/glass would be fine to replace the wedges.  
>>> 
>>> You can also use ‘tack tape’ reversed to protect the bolts.  One advantage 
>>> of this vs  wax is you can build layers for clearance.  
>>> 
>>> Good luck with the project!
>>> 
>>> Dave 
>>> 33-2 (same dna as the 35-3)
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
> On Aug 27, 2020, at 2:10 PM, David Swensen  
> wrote:
> 
 
 
 
 Fellow listers,
 I have moved Freya to my backyard and started work on the keel hull joint. 
 She has on the hard for about 4 weeks. I opened up thekeel hull joint and 
 have raised the hull a few inches.   The forward bolt is still draining ( 
 and it smells?). 
 The most aft bolt is the one that was leaking enough to set off my bilge 
 pump every 4 minutes. The inside of the hull was compressed under the 
 washers on this bolt. I think this will need to be ground out and filled
 I have added a link to some pictures.
 
 https://photos.app.goo.gl/uoZHWJbR2jH8Wb6F6   
 
 My questions:
 
 I cannot lift the hull entirely off of the keel. Any suggestions on how to 
 repair the compressed area without epoxy bonding to the  bolt?  I was 
 planning on a 1/2 inch G10 backing plate before putting  the washers on.
 
 It looks like I will need to excavate the space under the mast step. It 
 feels and sounds solid, but apparently there is water inside, because it 
 is still draining.  What is the best material to fill this space? 
 
 Two of the middle bolts had aluminum wedges under the washers because of 
 the angle of the keel sump. One was corroded to dust. There was not much 
 left of the other. Can I use G10 to replace these, or should I have them 
 fabricated from stainless steel?.
 
 One of the pictures shows the placement of the jackstands. I am open to 
 input on their placement. Is it sufficient to hold the hull for an 
 extended time?
 
 Thanks for any input. 
 
 David Swensen
 Freya   35 MK 3
 On the Hard in Beverly, MA
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   
>>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!9-CDindOcxAQN2R4qFnUPdZ3BJMEv42YRT5k_1ajVsg1sQAYGHOmVyV9bid3sMbbqTc$
>>>  
>>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
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Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Some people have had success putting something strong and inflatable under
the engine to raise it, something like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PL1ST_gZbt4

Ken H.

On Fri, 28 Aug 2020 at 10:32, John Conklin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> David,
> I believe my vibration is also due to original Motor Mounts as well on my
> 1983 - 37. Any other tips on the replacing? I asked a mechanic and he said
> they needed a special tool to raise the engine? Also No idea how I am
> getting to back ones with out removing fuel tank Which is nice new plastic
> type but placed in starboard lazzarette  making  all entry to aft section
> rudder and motor Difficult
> Thanks!
>
> John Conklin
> S/V Halcyon
> S/V Heartbeat
> www.flirtingwithfire.com
>
>
> On Aug 24, 2020, at 12:45 PM, David Risch via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> Chuck...replaced my motor mounts my self.   Not that hard.   Unless that V
> drive makes it that hard.
>
> Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Chuck
> Gilchrest via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, August 24, 2020 12:40:45 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> *Cc:* Chuck Gilchrest 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed
>
>
> Peter,
>
> My 1983 LF 35 came with a Yanmar 3HM with a 3 blade fixed prop.  It’s
> happiest around 2200 RPM at roughly 6 knots.  Anything more than that it
> sounds like the hull is shaking apart. Not a lot of sound deadening in
> general with that diesel, but it gets pretty loud at higher RPMs. Since I
> replaced the shaft, cutlass bearing, installed a dripless shaft seal when
> purchased 4 years ago, vibration is likely motor mounts which are probably
> original.
>
> Someday…
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> Half Magic
>
> 1983 35 Landfall
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Peter
> Cowenhoven via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, August 24, 2020 10:18 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Peter Cowenhoven 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed
>
>
>
> I've got a Westerbeke 33 with a 2 blade folding prop.
>
>
>
> I would say I do 7 knots at about 2700 -2800 rpm pretty consistently.
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 12:53 PM, Rob Hamlin via CnC-List
>
>  wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> What is everyone’s motor/ rpm optimal motoring speed?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Rob
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> ___
>
>
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

Motor mounts could be replaced with carefully located wood blocks and a
porta-power or bottle/scissor jack... Or maybe get some fine-pitch
allthread and make yourself a jack of sorts

You would have to re-align shaft/coupler.

I would recommend looking at your mounts to see if you can move at all, or
if they are maxxed out. You can loosen the coupler bolts, crack the
couplers away from each other just a bit, and find out which way your
engine needs to go. Say you find .006" gap on stbd and .012 on Port, .000
on lower, and .006" on upper, motor needs to come up some on the front
mounts, and go a bit to port. So you move your mounts (symmetrical side to
side, so make sure you are going up straight and not twisting) up a few
turns on the front mounts (I like to paint or marker one side of the hex
nut so I can easily count turns). Check your alignment. Then the real fun
begins. Hopefully your mounts have some small side-to side adjustment
allowable (maybe the mounting holes are just slightly oblong or have a
milled slot). Loosen one side's mount at a time and 'nudge' the motor a
little bit, tighten the mounts back down. Check your alignment again.

Hopefully this explains some of the reason why getting an engine replaced
is so expensive. This is very time consuming work, often performed in the
worst possible access areas of a boat.




Chris Riedinger
(860)302-9608
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Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

David,
I believe my vibration is also due to original Motor Mounts as well on my 1983 
- 37. Any other tips on the replacing? I asked a mechanic and he said they 
needed a special tool to raise the engine? Also No idea how I am getting to 
back ones with out removing fuel tank Which is nice new plastic type but placed 
in starboard lazzarette  making  all entry to aft section rudder and motor 
Difficult
Thanks!

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On Aug 24, 2020, at 12:45 PM, David Risch via CnC-List  
wrote:


Chuck...replaced my motor mounts my self.   Not that hard.   Unless that V 
drive makes it that hard.

Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Chuck Gilchrest via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 12:40:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed


Peter,

My 1983 LF 35 came with a Yanmar 3HM with a 3 blade fixed prop.  It’s happiest 
around 2200 RPM at roughly 6 knots.  Anything more than that it sounds like the 
hull is shaking apart. Not a lot of sound deadening in general with that 
diesel, but it gets pretty loud at higher RPMs. Since I replaced the shaft, 
cutlass bearing, installed a dripless shaft seal when purchased 4 years ago, 
vibration is likely motor mounts which are probably original.

Someday…

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Peter Cowenhoven 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 24, 2020 10:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Peter Cowenhoven 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed



I've got a Westerbeke 33 with a 2 blade folding prop.



I would say I do 7 knots at about 2700 -2800 rpm pretty consistently.

Sent from Yahoo Mail on 
Android



On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 12:53 PM, Rob Hamlin via CnC-List

mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hi

What is everyone’s motor/ rpm optimal motoring speed?



Thanks

Rob







Sent from my iPhone

___



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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

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Re: Stus-List Freya Keel work 35-3

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

Wow. You guys are awesome. Great info. Dave S, Your blog will be my bible
over the next couple of months.
I get the impression I should rebed the keel hull joint before addressing
the mast step cavity.  But I should drill into that cavity to accelerate
the draining/ drying first? Each time I raise the hull by giving the all
the jackstands a few quarter turns, that front bolt drains more water.

Thanks again to all! And thank you Stu for the list. I will make another
purchase/ donation soon. This list is invaluable.
David
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Re: Stus-List Transmission problem??

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi Alan- I have been careful not to let it run when vibrating as I have 
concerns about the cutlass bearing being damaged (not to mention the rest of 
the drive train).  Last I checked, the cutlass bearing still seemed secure.  
But I am not sure what you mean by a “loose prop”.  Do you mean the actual 
attachment to the shaft?  I have never taken the Maxprop off, but it looks to 
me like it is bolted onto the shaft and requires a gear puller to remove, so I 
don’t see how it could be loose.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



> On Aug 27, 2020, at 2:53 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I haven't been following this thread, but I might add that a loose prop can 
> lead to a worn cutless bearing which can lead to a scored shaft.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> 
> 
> 
> On Thu, Aug 27, 2020 at 11:27 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> We returned from our brief cruise yesterday and had no problems motoring.  I 
> just finished a discussion with PYI to see whether the Maxprop could be the 
> cause of the vibration and they said the symptoms are consistent with the 
> Maxprop needing to be reconditioned.  They said that if there is too much 
> wiggle in the blades, when subjected to loading and unloading in waves, the 
> blades can catch in slightly different places and that leads to vibration.  
> Going to reverse and then back to forward would reset the blade position.  He 
> said I can test by seeing how much wiggle there is in the blades when locked 
> in forward. It should be less than 1/8”.  More than 3/16” is a problem.  I 
> may try to dive under to see, but likely will wait until haul in Fall.  So I 
> think that is the likely cause of our vibration issue.
>  I am still unsure what the symptoms of a transmission needing rebuilding 
> would be.  If anyone can speak to symptoms of that problem, I would 
> appreciate it as I suspect they are different.
> 
> I should also note that I have always had a problem with the engine stalling 
> when I shift into reverse.  I don’t know what is causing that (PYI did not 
> think it related to the prop) so if anyone has ideas I would love to hear 
> them.  It is always nerve racking coming into a dock and worrying that I will 
> not be able to slow down. 
> 
> As to shift lever- it looks to me like the shifter is designed to be able to 
> attach in either orientation.  I think that in order to match normal Edson 
> lever movement (down = forward) they had to put it on pointing down.  In 
> order for that to work, they had to grind out some of the stringer.  I 
> realize in retrospect that there is no way shifting could have worn that away 
> as you would not have been able to shift at all until it wore down some and 
> that would make no sense.  But both my wife and I think that up is more 
> natural for forward gear, so I am happy with the change. 
> 
> 
> Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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>  
> 
>  
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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