Stus-List Re: weather station

[Marek Dziedzic]

Thank you all for a quick response. This gives me a good picture of what is out 
there.

Thanks

Marek Dziedzic
Ottawa, ON

_



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Stus-List Re: weather station

[Matthew]

I don't know what our Club uses, but it's reliable and helpful.  Check out
http://www.erieyachtclub.org/weatherlink/iphone/#live_weather .  It will
work on a computer, but I have more functionality on my iPhone (as the link
name suggests).  The display is plain vanilla.  The info is accurate.

 

If this is of any interest, I'll find out what we're using.

 

From: Marek Dziedzic  
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 7:16 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List weather station

 

Hi,

 

This is not C related, but certainly sailing-related.

 

I have a general question to anyone who is involved in running a weather
station for the sailing club (or similar). Our Club had various weather
stations over the years, but the last one failed about a year ago and we did
not have anything this season. I was asked to investigate what we could use.

 

I have two options already: Davis Vantage Pro 2 and WeatherFlow Tempest.

 

Davis w/s is reasonably high-end, but it also has a rather high-end price.
WeatherFlow is very new, has very attractive pricing and no moving parts.

 

If I correctly remember someone on the list was involved with the
WeatherFlow initial KickStarter action. If this is correct, any comments or
experience would be of great value.

 

This will be a Sailing Club w/s, so the most important parameters are wind
speed and direction; anything else is a bonus.

 

If you have any suggestions, comments, ideas, recommendations for or
against, I would greatly appreciate it.

 

Since this might not be of interest to all listers, potentially use a direct
email.

 

Thanks

 

Marek Dziedzic

Ottawa, On

 

 

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Stus-List Re: Cockpit drains

[Matthew]

Groco makes beautiful stuff, and I’m fairly certain they make stainless cockpit 
drains.  Don’t know the price.

 

From: Joel Delamirande  
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 7:18 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Cockpit drains

 

I’m looking for cockpit drains for a cnc 30

1973

There 1 1/2” -1 3/4” in size and tapered at the top where it sits on the floor

I would like to be in stainless and don’t 300-400$ a drain if that possible 

Let me know where you guys shop

Joel Delamirande 

Whistler 2

-- 

Joel Delamirande

  

 

www.jdroofing.ca 

 

 

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Stus-List Re: Two questions

[Matthew]

Hadn’t given it a thought.  I’ll look tomorrow at the types/sizes and let you 
know what they are.  They are not all self-tailers, by the way.  (The 
replacement Lewmars are.)

 

From: Joel Delamirande  
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 7:48 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Two questions

 

How much are selling your winches

 

On Wed, Oct 7, 2020 at 12:50 PM Matthew mailto:wolf...@erie.net> > wrote:

Thanks, Bill.  I have four brand new self-tailing winches sitting in my 
basement – right next to the two rope clutches.  In addition, self-tailers are 
on there now.  The issue is not freeing up a cleat, but freeing up a winch (by 
removing the halyard, which may be under load).  My goal is to go from 6 to 4 
winches.

 

Also, I have not ruled out putting the clutch on the mast.  

 

From: Bill Coleman mailto:colt...@gmail.com> > 
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 12:08 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Two questions

 

I would advise you to put a search for Barient winches on EBay, and replace a 
couple with self tailers  and that would solve your clutch problem. They pop up 
occasionally.

Or, buy a Self Tailing kit from that fellow in SF, CA, for your existing 
winches.

I know, you think I already told you this before, but that was for your cockpit 
winches. Which I still think is a good idea.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: Matthew [mailto:wolf...@erie.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 11:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Subject: Stus-List Two questions

 

Listers:

 

I have two unrelated questions:

 

1.   One of my winter projects is to dress up area around the small windows 
down below using some wood planking (or batten strips, or whatever you call 
it).  The cabin deck is cored, so the ceiling in the middle of the cabin can be 
screwed into.  There is no coring around the windows, however; just fiberglass 
(about ¼” thick).  Any thoughts on how best to attach the planking to the 
inside fiberglass?  I suppose I could epoxy the planking in place, but this 
seems like overkill and a lot of work.

 

2.   A second winter project is to reduce the number of winches on the deck 
around the mast.  I believe the easiest way to accomplish this, without going 
crazy and rearranging everything, is to use two strategically placed rope 
clutches.  To mount each rope clutch on the deck at the correct height, I will 
need to make a pad or something (like a winch pad, but for a rope clutch).  I 
could use teak, which requires maintenance; starboard, which does not; or 
something else that does not require maintenance.  Any suggestions?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Matt 

 

 

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-- 

Joel Delamirande

  

 

www.jdroofing.ca 

 

 

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Stus-List Re: weather station

[Dennis C.]

Marek,

Our club has a weather station by Ambient Weather which is a few years
old.  It is interfaced with Weather Underground's WunderMap.  I was the one
who bought and installed it with some club volunteers.

https://www.wunderground.com/dashboard/pws/KLAMANDE128#history

The sensor is mounted on our flag pole about 125 feet from the display.  It
is essentially line of sight through a large glass window.  The radio
communication between the sensor and the display in our bar has been very
reliable.

However, it drops its internet connection every now and then.  Perhaps an
issue with our network.  We solved the internet connection issue by
plugging the display into a smart plug.  Whenever it drops the internet and
there's no one around to do a hard reset, one of our members turns it off
then on from his cell phone.

So, I can vouch for weather stations from Ambient Weather although I think
other brands are also good.

Here's a link to Weather Underground's weather station buying guide.
Perhaps you'll find it helpful.

https://www.wunderground.com/pws/buying-guide

  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Wed, Oct 7, 2020 at 6:16 PM Marek Dziedzic 
wrote:

> Hi,
>
> This is not C related, but certainly sailing-related…
>
> I have a general question to anyone who is involved in running a weather
> station for the sailing club (or similar). Our Club had various weather
> stations over the years, but the last one failed about a year ago and we
> did not have anything this season. I was asked to investigate what we could
> use.
>
> I have two options already: Davis Vantage Pro 2 and WeatherFlow Tempest.
>
> Davis w/s is reasonably high-end, but it also has a rather high-end price.
> WeatherFlow is very new, has very attractive pricing and no moving parts.
>
> If I correctly remember someone on the list was involved with the
> WeatherFlow initial KickStarter action. If this is correct, any comments or
> experience would be of great value.
>
> This will be a Sailing Club w/s, so the most important parameters are wind
> speed and direction; anything else is a bonus.
>
> If you have any suggestions, comments, ideas, recommendations for or
> against, I would greatly appreciate it.
>
> Since this might not be of interest to all listers, potentially use a
> direct email.
>
> Thanks
>
> Marek Dziedzic
> Ottawa, On
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Stus-List Re: Cockpit drains

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER]

I would just google for what you're seeking.  Then I would click on images, so 
you just get pictures of what's available.  

Stainless cockpit drain 1 1/2"

https://www.google.com/search?q=Stainless+cockpit+drain+1+1/2%22=1C1AWFC_enUS839US839=ALeKk03lAVSekh9uOqJQswyQ1ouL3n4_Ow:1602116745350=lnms=isch=X=2ahUKEwim2fr73aPsAhWnmOAKHcauBpUQ_AUoAnoECAQQBA=1071=490=1.25

Chuck S

> On 10/07/2020 7:17 PM Joel Delamirande  wrote:
> 
> 
> I’m looking for cockpit drains for a cnc 30
> 1973
> There 1 1/2” -1 3/4” in size and tapered at the top where it sits on the 
> floor
> I would like to be in stainless and don’t 300-400$ a drain if that 
> possible 
> Let me know where you guys shop
> Joel Delamirande 
> Whistler 2
> --
> Joel Delamirandehttp://www.jdroofing.ca
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
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Stus-List Re: Two questions

[Joel Delamirande]

How much are selling your winches

On Wed, Oct 7, 2020 at 12:50 PM Matthew  wrote:

> Thanks, Bill.  I have four brand new self-tailing winches sitting in my
> basement – right next to the two rope clutches.  In addition, self-tailers
> are on there now.  The issue is not freeing up a cleat, but freeing up a
> winch (by removing the halyard, which may be under load).  My goal is to go
> from 6 to 4 winches.
>
>
>
> Also, I have not ruled out putting the clutch on the mast.
>
>
>
> *From:* Bill Coleman 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 07, 2020 12:08 PM
> *To:* 'Stus-List' 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Two questions
>
>
>
> I would advise you to put a search for Barient winches on EBay, and
> replace a couple with self tailers  and that would solve your clutch
> problem. They pop up occasionally.
>
> Or, buy a Self Tailing kit from that fellow in SF, CA, for your existing
> winches.
>
> I know, you think I already told you this before, but that was for your
> cockpit winches. Which I still think is a good idea.
>
>
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Matthew [mailto:wolf...@erie.net ]
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 07, 2020 11:38 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Stus-List Two questions
>
>
>
> Listers:
>
>
>
> I have two unrelated questions:
>
>
>
>1. One of my winter projects is to dress up area around the small
>windows down below using some wood planking (or batten strips, or whatever
>you call it).  The cabin deck is cored, so the ceiling in the middle of the
>cabin can be screwed into.  There is no coring around the windows, however;
>just fiberglass (about ¼” thick).  Any thoughts on how best to attach the
>planking to the inside fiberglass?  I suppose I could epoxy the planking in
>place, but this seems like overkill and a lot of work.
>
>
>
>1. A second winter project is to reduce the number of winches on the
>deck around the mast.  I believe the easiest way to accomplish this,
>without going crazy and rearranging everything, is to use two strategically
>placed rope clutches.  To mount each rope clutch on the deck at the correct
>height, I will need to make a pad or something (like a winch pad, but for a
>rope clutch).  I could use teak, which requires maintenance; starboard,
>which does not; or something else that does not require maintenance.  Any
>suggestions?
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
> Matt
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca *
___

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Stus-List Re: weather station

[Jonathan Tebbens]

Our club just has a link from windfinder on the homepage.
http://sarniayachtclub.ca/
Jon Tebbens
'78 Mega 30

On Wed, 7 Oct 2020, 19:16 Marek Dziedzic  wrote:

> Hi,
>
> This is not C related, but certainly sailing-related…
>
> I have a general question to anyone who is involved in running a weather
> station for the sailing club (or similar). Our Club had various weather
> stations over the years, but the last one failed about a year ago and we
> did not have anything this season. I was asked to investigate what we could
> use.
>
> I have two options already: Davis Vantage Pro 2 and WeatherFlow Tempest.
>
> Davis w/s is reasonably high-end, but it also has a rather high-end price.
> WeatherFlow is very new, has very attractive pricing and no moving parts.
>
> If I correctly remember someone on the list was involved with the
> WeatherFlow initial KickStarter action. If this is correct, any comments or
> experience would be of great value.
>
> This will be a Sailing Club w/s, so the most important parameters are wind
> speed and direction; anything else is a bonus.
>
> If you have any suggestions, comments, ideas, recommendations for or
> against, I would greatly appreciate it.
>
> Since this might not be of interest to all listers, potentially use a
> direct email.
>
> Thanks
>
> Marek Dziedzic
> Ottawa, On
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Re: Cockpit drains

[Ken Heaton]

I think the older C's, from the early 1970's, used Bathroom Sink drains
like this for cockpit drains:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Glacier-Bay-Lavatory-Sink-Grid-Drain-without-Overflow-in-Chrome-89463/205087828

Ken H.

On Wed, 7 Oct 2020 at 20:18, Joel Delamirande 
wrote:

> I’m looking for cockpit drains for a cnc 30
> 1973
> There 1 1/2” -1 3/4” in size and tapered at the top where it sits on the
> floor
> I would like to be in stainless and don’t 300-400$ a drain if that
> possible
> Let me know where you guys shop
> Joel Delamirande
> Whistler 2
> --
> Joel Delamirande
> *www.jdroofing.ca *
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Cockpit drains

[Joel Delamirande]

I’m looking for cockpit drains for a cnc 30
1973
There 1 1/2” -1 3/4” in size and tapered at the top where it sits on the
floor
I would like to be in stainless and don’t 300-400$ a drain if that possible
Let me know where you guys shop
Joel Delamirande
Whistler 2
-- 
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca *
___

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Stus-List weather station

[Marek Dziedzic]

Hi,

This is not C related, but certainly sailing-related...

I have a general question to anyone who is involved in running a weather 
station for the sailing club (or similar). Our Club had various weather 
stations over the years, but the last one failed about a year ago and we did 
not have anything this season. I was asked to investigate what we could use.

I have two options already: Davis Vantage Pro 2 and WeatherFlow Tempest.

Davis w/s is reasonably high-end, but it also has a rather high-end price. 
WeatherFlow is very new, has very attractive pricing and no moving parts.

If I correctly remember someone on the list was involved with the WeatherFlow 
initial KickStarter action. If this is correct, any comments or experience 
would be of great value.

This will be a Sailing Club w/s, so the most important parameters are wind 
speed and direction; anything else is a bonus.

If you have any suggestions, comments, ideas, recommendations for or against, I 
would greatly appreciate it.

Since this might not be of interest to all listers, potentially use a direct 
email.

Thanks

Marek Dziedzic
Ottawa, On


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Stus-List Re: water separator

[Fred Hazzard]

I accomplished the same thing with a squeeze bulb in the line from the
tank. It not only primes the filter bowl but also can quickly pump fuel and
air thru the fuel pump and secondary filter.  It will also tell you if
there is a blockage in the pick up line from the tank.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or

On Wed, Oct 7, 2020 at 10:07 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
wrote:

> I just checked Parker Racor and learned they now offer the R20P with a 
> built-in
> hand operated priming pump and bleeder.   Looks pretty cool.  You can get
> it with a clear bowl or a metal bowl if your insurance requires that.
>
> C
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Re: Hurricane Delta

[Tom Buscaglia]

Dennis

In 2005 we lived in Miami when Katrina crossed 
the state on the way to the gulf and then we got 
pounded by Wilma, a CAT 5.  Two hits in one year 
did it for us.  The Admiral said, that's it.  The 
next year we sold our Coconut Grove home and 
moved to Vashon Island, outside of Seattle.  It 
may be on a fault line, but earthquakes occur way 
less often than these monster storms.


Hunker down and stay safe.

Tom B

.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com

At 07:18 AM 10/7/2020, you wrote:

Thank you, Adam

Quite frankly, I'm getting a bit weary of these 
storms.  Also, after Hurricane Sally, I'm 
beginning to view the hurricane models with a 
great deal of skepticism.  Latest forecasts 
indicate it will pass just west of our house 
here in Baton Rouge.  I've readied the 
generator for any power outage.  Important to 
keep the beer cold and have ice for libations.  :)


Touche' is still on the hard in Pensacola being 
repaired from Hurricane Sally damage. Â

  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


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Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

[Matthew]

Thanks for heads-up and additional info.  Fortunately I’m in the smelly mess 
category.  I will nevertheless raise the issue with my diesel guy.

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 1:50 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

 

Racor themselves told me to do this once and I had to point out it was a 
massive safety issue and violated both ABYC and CFRs on a boat.
My boat is gas powered, an ounce an hour leak could blow the boat up. Diesel 
seeping out will probably just make a smelly mess.

Your filter now is essentially a water trap. The element will last forever.

 

 

Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I

www.dellabarba.com  

 

 

 

From: Matthew [mailto:wolf...@erie.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 12:43 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

 

Thanks, Joe.

 

My mechanic became a diesel expert working on diesel engines in Vietnam.  I’m 
pretty sure he knows what he’s doing.  The concern you raise in point 2, below, 
is likely why he installed an in-line filter before the electric pump.

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 12:11 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

 

Putting the pump first and running fuel under pressure can solve some problems. 
The Racor does not care if fuel gets pushed in one end or pulled out the other 
end. 

Why it is a bad idea:

1.  The filters are designed for vacuum side installation for safety. A 
leak will tend to suck air in and make the engine quit. A leak under pressure 
can seep or spray fuel and still leave enough to run the engine. This is really 
bad when the fuel is gasoline and not great for diesel.
2.  The pump is now the first line of defense. Dirt/sand/algae/etc. can now 
clog the pump up and it is a lot harder to unclog a pump than a filter!

 

 

Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I

www.dellabarba.com  

 

 

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Stus-List Re: Two questions

[Bill Coleman]

I believe it was this fellow,

 

http://winchmate.com/

 

 

 

From: Matthew [mailto:wolf...@erie.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 1:00 PM
To: 'Stus-List'
Subject: Stus-List Re: Two questions

 

By the way, who is the fellow in SF?

 

From: Bill Coleman  
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 12:08 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Two questions

 

I would advise you to put a search for Barient winches on EBay, and replace
a couple with self tailers  and that would solve your clutch problem. They
pop up occasionally.

Or, buy a Self Tailing kit from that fellow in SF, CA, for your existing
winches.

I know, you think I already told you this before, but that was for your
cockpit winches. Which I still think is a good idea.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: Matthew [mailto:wolf...@erie.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 11:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Two questions

 

Listers:

 

I have two unrelated questions:

 

1)  One of my winter projects is to dress up area around the small
windows down below using some wood planking (or batten strips, or whatever
you call it).  The cabin deck is cored, so the ceiling in the middle of the
cabin can be screwed into.  There is no coring around the windows, however;
just fiberglass (about ¼” thick).  Any thoughts on how best to attach the
planking to the inside fiberglass?  I suppose I could epoxy the planking in
place, but this seems like overkill and a lot of work.

 

2)  A second winter project is to reduce the number of winches on the
deck around the mast.  I believe the easiest way to accomplish this, without
going crazy and rearranging everything, is to use two strategically placed
rope clutches.  To mount each rope clutch on the deck at the correct height,
I will need to make a pad or something (like a winch pad, but for a rope
clutch).  I could use teak, which requires maintenance; starboard, which
does not; or something else that does not require maintenance.  Any
suggestions?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Matt 

 

 

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Racor themselves told me to do this once and I had to point out it was a 
massive safety issue and violated both ABYC and CFRs on a boat.
My boat is gas powered, an ounce an hour leak could blow the boat up. Diesel 
seeping out will probably just make a smelly mess.
Your filter now is essentially a water trap. The element will last forever.


Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com



From: Matthew [mailto:wolf...@erie.net]
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 12:43 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

Thanks, Joe.

My mechanic became a diesel expert working on diesel engines in Vietnam.  I’m 
pretty sure he knows what he’s doing.  The concern you raise in point 2, below, 
is likely why he installed an in-line filter before the electric pump.

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 12:11 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

Putting the pump first and running fuel under pressure can solve some problems. 
The Racor does not care if fuel gets pushed in one end or pulled out the other 
end.
Why it is a bad idea:

  1.  The filters are designed for vacuum side installation for safety. A leak 
will tend to suck air in and make the engine quit. A leak under pressure can 
seep or spray fuel and still leave enough to run the engine. This is really bad 
when the fuel is gasoline and not great for diesel.
  2.  The pump is now the first line of defense. Dirt/sand/algae/etc. can now 
clog the pump up and it is a lot harder to unclog a pump than a filter!



Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com



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Stus-List Re: Two questions

[Marek Dziedzic]

Matthew,

Have you considered a clutch on the mast? If you have it there, you can remove 
the halyard from the winch, even if it is under load.

If you consider installing a clutch on the mast, Selden has a clutch that can 
be mounted on its side. It is much better that way on the mast.

Marek
1994 #122 "Legato"
Ottawa, ON



From: Matthew
Sent: 7 October, 2020 12:51
To: 'Stus-List' 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Two questions

Thanks, Bill.  I have four brand new self-tailing winches sitting in my 
basement - right next to the two rope clutches.  In addition, self-tailers are 
on there now.  The issue is not freeing up a cleat, but freeing up a winch (by 
removing the halyard, which may be under load).  My goal is to go from 6 to 4 
winches.

Also, I have not ruled out putting the clutch on the mast.

From: Bill Coleman mailto:colt...@gmail.com>>
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 12:08 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Two questions

I would advise you to put a search for Barient winches on EBay, and replace a 
couple with self tailers  and that would solve your clutch problem. They pop up 
occasionally.
Or, buy a Self Tailing kit from that fellow in SF, CA, for your existing 
winches.
I know, you think I already told you this before, but that was for your cockpit 
winches. Which I still think is a good idea.


Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie, PA



From: Matthew [mailto:wolf...@erie.net]
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 11:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Two questions

Listers:

I have two unrelated questions:


  1.  One of my winter projects is to dress up area around the small windows 
down below using some wood planking (or batten strips, or whatever you call 
it).  The cabin deck is cored, so the ceiling in the middle of the cabin can be 
screwed into.  There is no coring around the windows, however; just fiberglass 
(about ¼" thick).  Any thoughts on how best to attach the planking to the 
inside fiberglass?  I suppose I could epoxy the planking in place, but this 
seems like overkill and a lot of work.



  1.  A second winter project is to reduce the number of winches on the deck 
around the mast.  I believe the easiest way to accomplish this, without going 
crazy and rearranging everything, is to use two strategically placed rope 
clutches.  To mount each rope clutch on the deck at the correct height, I will 
need to make a pad or something (like a winch pad, but for a rope clutch).  I 
could use teak, which requires maintenance; starboard, which does not; or 
something else that does not require maintenance.  Any suggestions?


Thanks in advance.

Matt


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Stus-List Re: water separator

[Marek Dziedzic]

That option has been available for years (at least since early 90s). However, 
be aware that the seals on the pump tend to go bad after a while and it is hard 
to seal it again.

I had a Racor filter like that in the past and could not stop the fuel leak 
there despite many tries. Eventually, I gave up on convenience and went with a 
filter without the pump.

Marek
1994 #122 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON



From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER
Sent: 7 October, 2020 13:07
To: Stus-List 
Cc: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
Subject: Stus-List Re: water separator

I just checked Parker Racor and learned they now offer the R20P with a built-in 
hand operated priming pump and bleeder.   Looks pretty cool.  You can get it 
with a clear bowl or a metal bowl if your insurance requires that.

C


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Stus-List Re: Two questions

[Matthew]

Thanks, Nathan.

The holes in the deck after removing the two winches will be covered by either 
the existing teak (plugs) or matching starboard -- I haven't decided.  In any 
event, they will be filled with epoxy, not a sealant.

-Original Message-
From: Nathan Post  
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 12:54 PM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Two questions

I used starboard as spacers under my clutches and I am happy with the result. I 
have the halyards run back on the cabin top on my boat although I am not 
convinced that is really an advantage over having them at the mast since at the 
mast would make reefing and other things actually easier when short handled. 

Having the halyard run back to the cabin was done by PO and they didn’t do a 
good job patching the holes from the old winches On the deck near the mast 
resulting in leaks. I think that some adhesive sealant was used in the holes 
but over time it got brittle and didn’t adhere well to the sides of the holes. 

I redid that by grinding out a bevel, filling the hole with thickened epoxy and 
 laying a few layers of glass and epoxy across the top of each hole.  Then I 
sanded flat, filled any dips, and repainted the deck Which was previously 
painted. 

If you don’t want to paint everything or try to match gel coat color you might 
be better off putting a round pan head machine screw back in the hole with 
butyl tape under the washer to seal the hole.

Nathan
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34
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Stus-List Re: water separator

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER]

I just checked Parker Racor and learned they now offer the R20P with a built-in 
hand operated priming pump and bleeder.   Looks pretty cool.  You can get it 
with a clear bowl or a metal bowl if your insurance requires that. 

C

> 
> 
> 
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Stus-List Re: Two questions

[Matthew]

By the way, who is the fellow in SF?

 

From: Bill Coleman  
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 12:08 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Two questions

 

I would advise you to put a search for Barient winches on EBay, and replace
a couple with self tailers  and that would solve your clutch problem. They
pop up occasionally.

Or, buy a Self Tailing kit from that fellow in SF, CA, for your existing
winches.

I know, you think I already told you this before, but that was for your
cockpit winches. Which I still think is a good idea.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: Matthew [mailto:wolf...@erie.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 11:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Subject: Stus-List Two questions

 

Listers:

 

I have two unrelated questions:

 

1.  One of my winter projects is to dress up area around the small
windows down below using some wood planking (or batten strips, or whatever
you call it).  The cabin deck is cored, so the ceiling in the middle of the
cabin can be screwed into.  There is no coring around the windows, however;
just fiberglass (about ¼” thick).  Any thoughts on how best to attach the
planking to the inside fiberglass?  I suppose I could epoxy the planking in
place, but this seems like overkill and a lot of work.

 

2.  A second winter project is to reduce the number of winches on the
deck around the mast.  I believe the easiest way to accomplish this, without
going crazy and rearranging everything, is to use two strategically placed
rope clutches.  To mount each rope clutch on the deck at the correct height,
I will need to make a pad or something (like a winch pad, but for a rope
clutch).  I could use teak, which requires maintenance; starboard, which
does not; or something else that does not require maintenance.  Any
suggestions?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Matt 

 

 

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Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

[Matthew]

Points well taken, Joe and David.  Perhaps I need a pressure gauge.  Right 
after the window trim and rope clutch mounting.

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 12:42 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

 

And if you can’t pull a vacuum you have an air leak someplace! 

I needed two gauges because the vacuum was on both sides of the Racor, fuel 
fill hose pieces were dropping into the tank, getting sucked onto the intake 
tube, and falling off when I went to change the “clogged” filter. It drove me 
NUTS figuring THAT out!

My vacuum gauge is down by the filter and my pressure gauge is in the cockpit. 
It has a red light that comes on below 1 PSI fuel pressure too.

 

 

Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I

www.dellabarba.com  

 

 

 

From: David Knecht [mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 12:35 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

 

I want to second Joe's thought.  I have not had fuel problems, but just 
installed a vacuum gauge (from Joe and Josh’s previous recommendations) a few 
weeks ago and it was so simple there is no reason not to do it.  I added the 
more expensive drag pointer type gauge  
(https://www.sbmar.com/product/vacuum-gauge-rear-low-profile-mount/ 

 ) so I did not have to be looking at the gauge while the engine is running (in 
case it isn’t) but still under $100 for the gauge.  I simply cut the line 
between the Racor and the fuel pump, removed a few inches of tubing and plugged 
the line into the barbed fittings of the gauge.  I got no reading when I ran 
the engine, but then to test, I gradually closed the shut off lever and as it 
got near closed, the vacuum started to register.  That made me happy indicating 
my several years old Racor primary was fine.  One less thing to worry about and 
diagnose in an emergency.   Should have done it a long time ago.  Dave

 

S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




 

On Oct 7, 2020, at 12:16 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

I am probably getting repetitive, but please BUY SOME GAUGES! I currently have 
a fuel pressure gauge with the sensor on the output side of the pump and a 
vacuum gauge on the output side of the filter before the pump. I temporarily 
had a second vacuum gauge on the input side of the filter too. It took all 
three gauges to track down a couple oddball fuel feed issues I had been having 
for years that NEVER could have solved otherwise.

I can give some links if you are curious. A whole box of gauges is cheaper than 
one tow home or one ruined trip.

 

 

Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I

 

 www.dellabarba.com

 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --

 https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Re: Two questions

[Nathan Post]

I used starboard as spacers under my clutches and I am happy with the result. I 
have the halyards run back on the cabin top on my boat although I am not 
convinced that is really an advantage over having them at the mast since at the 
mast would make reefing and other things actually easier when short handled. 

Having the halyard run back to the cabin was done by PO and they didn’t do a 
good job patching the holes from the old winches On the deck near the mast 
resulting in leaks. I think that some adhesive sealant was used in the holes 
but over time it got brittle and didn’t adhere well to the sides of the holes. 

I redid that by grinding out a bevel, filling the hole with thickened epoxy and 
 laying a few layers of glass and epoxy across the top of each hole.  Then I 
sanded flat, filled any dips, and repainted the deck Which was previously 
painted. 

If you don’t want to paint everything or try to match gel coat color you might 
be better off putting a round pan head machine screw back in the hole with 
butyl tape under the washer to seal the hole.

Nathan
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Re: Two questions

[Matthew]

Thanks, Bill.  I have four brand new self-tailing winches sitting in my
basement – right next to the two rope clutches.  In addition, self-tailers
are on there now.  The issue is not freeing up a cleat, but freeing up a
winch (by removing the halyard, which may be under load).  My goal is to go
from 6 to 4 winches.

 

Also, I have not ruled out putting the clutch on the mast.  

 

From: Bill Coleman  
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 12:08 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Two questions

 

I would advise you to put a search for Barient winches on EBay, and replace
a couple with self tailers  and that would solve your clutch problem. They
pop up occasionally.

Or, buy a Self Tailing kit from that fellow in SF, CA, for your existing
winches.

I know, you think I already told you this before, but that was for your
cockpit winches. Which I still think is a good idea.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: Matthew [mailto:wolf...@erie.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 11:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Subject: Stus-List Two questions

 

Listers:

 

I have two unrelated questions:

 

1.  One of my winter projects is to dress up area around the small
windows down below using some wood planking (or batten strips, or whatever
you call it).  The cabin deck is cored, so the ceiling in the middle of the
cabin can be screwed into.  There is no coring around the windows, however;
just fiberglass (about ¼” thick).  Any thoughts on how best to attach the
planking to the inside fiberglass?  I suppose I could epoxy the planking in
place, but this seems like overkill and a lot of work.

 

2.  A second winter project is to reduce the number of winches on the
deck around the mast.  I believe the easiest way to accomplish this, without
going crazy and rearranging everything, is to use two strategically placed
rope clutches.  To mount each rope clutch on the deck at the correct height,
I will need to make a pad or something (like a winch pad, but for a rope
clutch).  I could use teak, which requires maintenance; starboard, which
does not; or something else that does not require maintenance.  Any
suggestions?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Matt 

 

 

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

[Matthew]

Thanks, Joe.

 

My mechanic became a diesel expert working on diesel engines in Vietnam.  I’m 
pretty sure he knows what he’s doing.  The concern you raise in point 2, below, 
is likely why he installed an in-line filter before the electric pump.

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 12:11 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

 

Putting the pump first and running fuel under pressure can solve some problems. 
The Racor does not care if fuel gets pushed in one end or pulled out the other 
end. 

Why it is a bad idea:

1.  The filters are designed for vacuum side installation for safety. A 
leak will tend to suck air in and make the engine quit. A leak under pressure 
can seep or spray fuel and still leave enough to run the engine. This is really 
bad when the fuel is gasoline and not great for diesel.
2.  The pump is now the first line of defense. Dirt/sand/algae/etc. can now 
clog the pump up and it is a lot harder to unclog a pump than a filter!

 

 

Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I

www.dellabarba.com  

 

 

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Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

And if you can’t pull a vacuum you have an air leak someplace!
I needed two gauges because the vacuum was on both sides of the Racor, fuel 
fill hose pieces were dropping into the tank, getting sucked onto the intake 
tube, and falling off when I went to change the “clogged” filter. It drove me 
NUTS figuring THAT out!
My vacuum gauge is down by the filter and my pressure gauge is in the cockpit. 
It has a red light that comes on below 1 PSI fuel pressure too.


Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com



From: David Knecht [mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 12:35 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

I want to second Joe's thought.  I have not had fuel problems, but just 
installed a vacuum gauge (from Joe and Josh’s previous recommendations) a few 
weeks ago and it was so simple there is no reason not to do it.  I added the 
more expensive drag pointer type gauge  
(https://www.sbmar.com/product/vacuum-gauge-rear-low-profile-mount/)
 so I did not have to be looking at the gauge while the engine is running (in 
case it isn’t) but still under $100 for the gauge.  I simply cut the line 
between the Racor and the fuel pump, removed a few inches of tubing and plugged 
the line into the barbed fittings of the gauge.  I got no reading when I ran 
the engine, but then to test, I gradually closed the shut off lever and as it 
got near closed, the vacuum started to register.  That made me happy indicating 
my several years old Racor primary was fine.  One less thing to worry about and 
diagnose in an emergency.   Should have done it a long time ago.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[cid:image001.png@01D69CA7.2B8E0ED0]


On Oct 7, 2020, at 12:16 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I am probably getting repetitive, but please BUY SOME GAUGES! I currently have 
a fuel pressure gauge with the sensor on the output side of the pump and a 
vacuum gauge on the output side of the filter before the pump. I temporarily 
had a second vacuum gauge on the input side of the filter too. It took all 
three gauges to track down a couple oddball fuel feed issues I had been having 
for years that NEVER could have solved otherwise.
I can give some links if you are curious. A whole box of gauges is cheaper than 
one tow home or one ruined trip.


Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

[David Knecht]

I want to second Joe's thought.  I have not had fuel problems, but just 
installed a vacuum gauge (from Joe and Josh’s previous recommendations) a few 
weeks ago and it was so simple there is no reason not to do it.  I added the 
more expensive drag pointer type gauge  
(https://www.sbmar.com/product/vacuum-gauge-rear-low-profile-mount/) so I did 
not have to be looking at the gauge while the engine is running (in case it 
isn’t) but still under $100 for the gauge.  I simply cut the line between the 
Racor and the fuel pump, removed a few inches of tubing and plugged the line 
into the barbed fittings of the gauge.  I got no reading when I ran the engine, 
but then to test, I gradually closed the shut off lever and as it got near 
closed, the vacuum started to register.  That made me happy indicating my 
several years old Racor primary was fine.  One less thing to worry about and 
diagnose in an emergency.   Should have done it a long time ago.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Oct 7, 2020, at 12:16 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am probably getting repetitive, but please BUY SOME GAUGES! I currently 
> have a fuel pressure gauge with the sensor on the output side of the pump and 
> a vacuum gauge on the output side of the filter before the pump. I 
> temporarily had a second vacuum gauge on the input side of the filter too. It 
> took all three gauges to track down a couple oddball fuel feed issues I had 
> been having for years that NEVER could have solved otherwise.
> I can give some links if you are curious. A whole box of gauges is cheaper 
> than one tow home or one ruined trip.
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
> www.dellabarba.com 
>  
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Re: Two questions

[T Sutton via CnC-List]

Not sure which lines you want the clutches to hold secure but have you thought 
of mounting the clutches on the mast as opposed to on deck?  They can be 
installed in line with the line involved and can be mounted in drilled and 
tapped holes, no concerns about sealing the deck from moisture.

Cheers,

Tom S

From: Matthew 
Sent: Wednesday, October 7, 2020 11:37 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Two questions

Listers:

 

I have two unrelated questions:

 

  1.. One of my winter projects is to dress up area around the small windows 
down below using some wood planking (or batten strips, or whatever you call 
it).  The cabin deck is cored, so the ceiling in the middle of the cabin can be 
screwed into.  There is no coring around the windows, however; just fiberglass 
(about ¼” thick).  Any thoughts on how best to attach the planking to the 
inside fiberglass?  I suppose I could epoxy the planking in place, but this 
seems like overkill and a lot of work.
 

  2.. A second winter project is to reduce the number of winches on the deck 
around the mast.  I believe the easiest way to accomplish this, without going 
crazy and rearranging everything, is to use two strategically placed rope 
clutches.  To mount each rope clutch on the deck at the correct height, I will 
need to make a pad or something (like a winch pad, but for a rope clutch).  I 
could use teak, which requires maintenance; starboard, which does not; or 
something else that does not require maintenance.  Any suggestions?
 

Thanks in advance.

 

Matt 

 

 




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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I am probably getting repetitive, but please BUY SOME GAUGES! I currently have 
a fuel pressure gauge with the sensor on the output side of the pump and a 
vacuum gauge on the output side of the filter before the pump. I temporarily 
had a second vacuum gauge on the input side of the filter too. It took all 
three gauges to track down a couple oddball fuel feed issues I had been having 
for years that NEVER could have solved otherwise.
I can give some links if you are curious. A whole box of gauges is cheaper than 
one tow home or one ruined trip.


Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com


___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Putting the pump first and running fuel under pressure can solve some problems. 
The Racor does not care if fuel gets pushed in one end or pulled out the other 
end.
Why it is a bad idea:

1.   The filters are designed for vacuum side installation for safety. A 
leak will tend to suck air in and make the engine quit. A leak under pressure 
can seep or spray fuel and still leave enough to run the engine. This is really 
bad when the fuel is gasoline and not great for diesel.

2.   The pump is now the first line of defense. Dirt/sand/algae/etc. can 
now clog the pump up and it is a lot harder to unclog a pump than a filter!



Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com



___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Re: Two questions

[Bill Coleman]

I would advise you to put a search for Barient winches on EBay, and replace
a couple with self tailers  and that would solve your clutch problem. They
pop up occasionally.

Or, buy a Self Tailing kit from that fellow in SF, CA, for your existing
winches.

I know, you think I already told you this before, but that was for your
cockpit winches. Which I still think is a good idea.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: Matthew [mailto:wolf...@erie.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 11:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Two questions

 

Listers:

 

I have two unrelated questions:

 

1)  One of my winter projects is to dress up area around the small
windows down below using some wood planking (or batten strips, or whatever
you call it).  The cabin deck is cored, so the ceiling in the middle of the
cabin can be screwed into.  There is no coring around the windows, however;
just fiberglass (about ¼” thick).  Any thoughts on how best to attach the
planking to the inside fiberglass?  I suppose I could epoxy the planking in
place, but this seems like overkill and a lot of work.

 

2)  A second winter project is to reduce the number of winches on the
deck around the mast.  I believe the easiest way to accomplish this, without
going crazy and rearranging everything, is to use two strategically placed
rope clutches.  To mount each rope clutch on the deck at the correct height,
I will need to make a pad or something (like a winch pad, but for a rope
clutch).  I could use teak, which requires maintenance; starboard, which
does not; or something else that does not require maintenance.  Any
suggestions?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Matt 

 

 

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Stus-List Re: Two questions

[Matthew]

Great answers!  Thanks as always, Dennis.

 

From: Dennis C.  
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 11:58 AM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Two questions

 

 

 

On Wed, Oct 7, 2020 at 10:38 AM Matthew mailto:wolf...@erie.net> > wrote:

Listers:

 

I have two unrelated questions:

 

1.   One of my winter projects is to dress up area around the small windows 
down below using some wood planking (or batten strips, or whatever you call 
it).  The cabin deck is cored, so the ceiling in the middle of the cabin can be 
screwed into.  There is no coring around the windows, however; just fiberglass 
(about ¼” thick).  Any thoughts on how best to attach the planking to the 
inside fiberglass?  I suppose I could epoxy the planking in place, but this 
seems like overkill and a lot of work.

 Tape around the trim pieces and glue the wood with a small bead of 3M 5200.

2.   A second winter project is to reduce the number of winches on the deck 
around the mast.  I believe the easiest way to accomplish this, without going 
crazy and rearranging everything, is to use two strategically placed rope 
clutches.  To mount each rope clutch on the deck at the correct height, I will 
need to make a pad or something (like a winch pad, but for a rope clutch).  I 
could use teak, which requires maintenance; starboard, which does not; or 
something else that does not require maintenance.  Any suggestions?

StarBoard.  Note the small Powercleat between the triple rope clutch and the 
companionway.  It's raised on a small StarBoard pad.  I used a 1/4 inch 
roundover router bit.

  See: 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvsYXlZZ2ZRX21Rd3M/view?usp=sharing 

   

 Thanks in advance.

 

Matt 

 

 

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-- 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

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Stus-List Re: Two questions

[Matthew]

1976 C 42 Custom.

 

My plan for the windows was inspired by window trim I saw on a photo of 1973 
C Custom 48 posted on Yachtworld a year or two ago.  I was going to provide a 
link to illustrate what I’m talking about, but the boat is no longer listed.  I 
would attach a photo scan but Stu’s size limits usually do not permit it.

 

From: Len Mitchell  
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2020 11:51 AM
To: Stus-List 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Two questions

 

Matt, What model and year is your boat? Someone has probably already crossed 
that bridge and may have pictures to help you. 

Len Mitchell

Crazy Legs

1989 37+

Midland On 

Sent from my iPad





On Oct 7, 2020, at 11:38 AM, Matthew mailto:wolf...@erie.net> > wrote:



Listers:

 

I have two unrelated questions:

 

1.  One of my winter projects is to dress up area around the small windows 
down below using some wood planking (or batten strips, or whatever you call 
it).  The cabin deck is cored, so the ceiling in the middle of the cabin can be 
screwed into.  There is no coring around the windows, however; just fiberglass 
(about ¼” thick).  Any thoughts on how best to attach the planking to the 
inside fiberglass?  I suppose I could epoxy the planking in place, but this 
seems like overkill and a lot of work.

 

2.  A second winter project is to reduce the number of winches on the deck 
around the mast.  I believe the easiest way to accomplish this, without going 
crazy and rearranging everything, is to use two strategically placed rope 
clutches.  To mount each rope clutch on the deck at the correct height, I will 
need to make a pad or something (like a winch pad, but for a rope clutch).  I 
could use teak, which requires maintenance; starboard, which does not; or 
something else that does not require maintenance.  Any suggestions?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Matt 

 

 

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Stus-List Re: Two questions

[Dennis C.]

On Wed, Oct 7, 2020 at 10:38 AM Matthew  wrote:

> Listers:
>
>
>
> I have two unrelated questions:
>
>
>
>1. One of my winter projects is to dress up area around the small
>windows down below using some wood planking (or batten strips, or whatever
>you call it).  The cabin deck is cored, so the ceiling in the middle of the
>cabin can be screwed into.  There is no coring around the windows, however;
>just fiberglass (about ¼” thick).  Any thoughts on how best to attach the
>planking to the inside fiberglass?  I suppose I could epoxy the planking in
>place, but this seems like overkill and a lot of work.
>
>  *Tape around the trim pieces and glue the wood with a small bead of 3M
> 5200.*
>
>1. A second winter project is to reduce the number of winches on the
>deck around the mast.  I believe the easiest way to accomplish this,
>without going crazy and rearranging everything, is to use two strategically
>placed rope clutches.  To mount each rope clutch on the deck at the correct
>height, I will need to make a pad or something (like a winch pad, but for a
>rope clutch).  I could use teak, which requires maintenance; starboard,
>which does not; or something else that does not require maintenance.  Any
>suggestions?
>
> *StarBoard.  Note the small Powercleat between the triple rope clutch and
> the companionway.  It's raised on a small StarBoard pad.  I used a 1/4 inch
> roundover router bit.*
>
*  See*:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvsYXlZZ2ZRX21Rd3M/view?usp=sharing


>  Thanks in advance.

>
>
> Matt
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Stus-List Re: Two questions

[Len Mitchell]

Matt, What model and year is your boat? Someone has probably already crossed 
that bridge and may have pictures to help you. 
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On 

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 7, 2020, at 11:38 AM, Matthew  wrote:
> 
> 
> Listers:
>  
> I have two unrelated questions:
>  
> One of my winter projects is to dress up area around the small windows down 
> below using some wood planking (or batten strips, or whatever you call it).  
> The cabin deck is cored, so the ceiling in the middle of the cabin can be 
> screwed into.  There is no coring around the windows, however; just 
> fiberglass (about ¼” thick).  Any thoughts on how best to attach the planking 
> to the inside fiberglass?  I suppose I could epoxy the planking in place, but 
> this seems like overkill and a lot of work.
>  
> A second winter project is to reduce the number of winches on the deck around 
> the mast.  I believe the easiest way to accomplish this, without going crazy 
> and rearranging everything, is to use two strategically placed rope clutches. 
>  To mount each rope clutch on the deck at the correct height, I will need to 
> make a pad or something (like a winch pad, but for a rope clutch).  I could 
> use teak, which requires maintenance; starboard, which does not; or something 
> else that does not require maintenance.  Any suggestions?
>  
> Thanks in advance.
>  
> Matt
>  
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Stus-List Two questions

[Matthew]

Listers:

 

I have two unrelated questions:

 

1.  One of my winter projects is to dress up area around the small
windows down below using some wood planking (or batten strips, or whatever
you call it).  The cabin deck is cored, so the ceiling in the middle of the
cabin can be screwed into.  There is no coring around the windows, however;
just fiberglass (about ¼” thick).  Any thoughts on how best to attach the
planking to the inside fiberglass?  I suppose I could epoxy the planking in
place, but this seems like overkill and a lot of work.

 

2.  A second winter project is to reduce the number of winches on the
deck around the mast.  I believe the easiest way to accomplish this, without
going crazy and rearranging everything, is to use two strategically placed
rope clutches.  To mount each rope clutch on the deck at the correct height,
I will need to make a pad or something (like a winch pad, but for a rope
clutch).  I could use teak, which requires maintenance; starboard, which
does not; or something else that does not require maintenance.  Any
suggestions?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Matt 

 

 

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Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

[Matthew]

It usually works without it.  The thing is, everything’s fine until it isn’t, 
and I typically do not have people on board to bleed the lines or run the boat 
while I’m down below bleeding the lines.  Better to leave the electric pump on. 
 Belt and suspenders.

 

From: Bill Coleman  
Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2020 4:52 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Universal diesel

 

Now that you have removed and re-installed your tank, maybe you could try 
turning off the electric pump and see if it works without it.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

 

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Stus-List Re: Hurricane Delta

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 Hang in there Dennis!   You have a whole bunch of people rootin' for you! (and 
ready to help if need be...) 
 
Richards/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 584;
 
Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. 
To: Stus-List 
Sent: Wed, Oct 7, 2020 10:18 am
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hurricane Delta

Thank you, Adam
Quite frankly, I'm getting a bit weary of these storms.  Also, after Hurricane 
Sally, I'm beginning to view the hurricane models with a great deal of 
skepticism.  Latest forecasts indicate it will pass just west of our house here 
in Baton Rouge.  I've readied the generator for any power outage.  Important to 
keep the beer cold and have ice for libations.  :)
Touche' is still on the hard in Pensacola being repaired from Hurricane Sally 
damage.    -- 
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
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Stus-List Re: Hurricane Delta

[Dennis C.]

Thank you, Adam

Quite frankly, I'm getting a bit weary of these storms.  Also, after
Hurricane Sally, I'm beginning to view the hurricane models with a great
deal of skepticism.  Latest forecasts indicate it will pass just west of
our house here in Baton Rouge.  I've readied the generator for any power
outage.  Important to keep the beer cold and have ice for libations.  :)

Touche' is still on the hard in Pensacola being repaired from Hurricane
Sally damage.
  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Oct 7, 2020 at 5:11 AM  wrote:

> For those of you in the path of Hurricane Delta be safe and I hope that
> you are able to get all necessary precautions completed.   It looks like it
> has become a powerful storm.
> Adam Hayden
> State of Bliss
> C 36
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>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Hurricane Delta

[hayden . adam]

For those of you in the path of Hurricane Delta be safe and I hope that you are able to get all necessary precautions completed.   It looks like it has become a powerful storm.Adam HaydenState of BlissC 36___

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