Stus-List Boom Angle on 33 Mk 1

[Peter Baxter via CnC-List]

I purchased a 1975 C&C 33 Mk 1 named Grand Cru last October and am making my 
way through repairs. Harken Ocean Mk IV furler, new backstay (no hydraulics), 
new pex, new port lights…etc

One thing that looks odd to me is the boom angle. On my last boat, the angle 
between Main and boom was pretty much 90 degrees. My C&C 33 looks to be 95 or 
so. When you look at it from  midship, the stern end of the boom is lower than 
the gooseneck. I’m thinking my setup is off, especially my very old main.

What is a typical 30 foot C&C boom angle?

Peter Baxter
s/v Grand Cru
C&C 31 Mk 1
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Swim Platform …….and handrails

[Peter W. via CnC-List]

I, too, recommend stainless outfitters.  Replacing the original teak handrails, They made new, stainless rails and they were very reasonable.  Call John.Fair Winds,Pete W.Siren Song‘90 C&C30-2Sent from my iPadOn Jun 28, 2024, at 2:44 PM, Richard Bush via CnC-List  wrote:Photos?  ThanksRichard1085 C&C 37 CB Ohio River Mile 584.4;Richard N. Bush Law Offices2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite NineLouisville, Kentucky 40220(502) 584-7255






On Friday, June 28, 2024 at 02:32:27 PM EDT, John McCrea via CnC-List  wrote:



Thanks! I assume you did it on land. 😊  From: Kevin Wright  Sent: Friday, June 28, 2024 2:05 PMTo: Stus-List Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.netSubject: Re: Stus-List Swim Platform  They did mine last year, great job. I installed it myself in a day. Helps if you have  long monkey arms.KevinLandlfall 43Sent from my iPhoneOn Jun 28, 2024, at 1:18 PM, John McCrea via CnC-List  wrote:Has anyone ever considered adding a platform on the stern? It would help the aging owners…  This company in Canada offers some excellent options for about 2k. https://stainlessoutfitters.com/products/marine/swim-platforms/ Thanks, John McCrea1979 36-1TalismanMystic, CT 06355Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.StuPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.StuPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Rudder Tube Leak

[Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List]

Thanks for all for the ideas.  Yah and how to tell if it's the rudder post or 
that lower hole.  If water came in thru the rudder wouldn't it come up high, 
like where that grease fitting is that is easy to see??
This feels a bit like a needle in a haystack.  I could replace a lit if gear 
and still have the leak if it's the rudder tube/hull connection as Dennis had.




Yahoo Mail: Search, Organize, Conquer 
 
  On Tue, Jun 4, 2024 at 4:47 PM, Bill Coleman via 
CnC-List wrote:   Please show your appreciation for this 
list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu  
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Rudder Tube Leak

[Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List]

Thanks Bill, much appreciated!  Access is tough back there but gotta start 
somewhere!  
That's  my concern that it's a rudder issue, which will require dropping it and 
rebuilding!?  But it sounds like your rudder job wouldn't have necessarily 
solved your leak? The water was actually coming through the glass?

Happy sailing!Yahoo Mail: Search, Organize, Conquer 
 
  On Tue, Jun 4, 2024 at 4:38 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:   Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site 
and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu  
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 35 Mk 2 available

[Peter Baxter via CnC-List]

David -

I'm interested ... please email my gmail at peter c baxter (remove the
spaces).

I'll need to sell my recently refurbished C&C 33 Mk 1 (also with a new
Yanmar 3GM30F).


Peter

On Mon, May 20, 2024 at 6:06 PM David Kelly via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Looking for a little help on options.  My job is being relocated to Europe
> over the summer.  As a result, I am looking to sell or donate my C&C 35-2,
> hull #207.
>
> I reached out to Mass Maritime and one other place and received a “does
> not fit our program” reply.  Any suggestions are welcome.  I need to get
> serious, as my relocation has gone from a possibility to a reality over the
> last month.
>
> David Kelly
> Baraka, C&C 35-2
> Noroton, CT
>
> On May 20, 2024, at 2:19 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> I could buy that boat cheaper than repainting my boat, getting a Yanmar,
> and buying all that teak.
>
> Joe
>
>
>
> *From:* Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, May 20, 2024 1:34 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Neil Gallagher 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C&C 35 MK I interior
>
>
>
> My boat has the same cabin sole, otherwise no where as much as all that on
> the topsides.  I certainly don't have teak and holly in the head!
>
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly, 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
>
> On 5/20/2024 12:12 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Was this stock? I cannot recall seeing any other 35 with this much teak:
>
> https://www.yachtworld.com/yacht/1970-c$c-35-mk-i-9350708/
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C&C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Stu
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Propeller Strut

[Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List]

Thanks guys.  I'm having the dripless replaced and it does seem fine but the 
fairing around the strut doesn't seem to hold up over time.  
What would you fill the area around strut with?



Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Mon, Mar 4, 2024 at 10:37 AM, Novabraid via 
CnC-List wrote:   Please show your appreciation for this 
list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu  
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Propeller Strut

[Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List]

Does any know how the strut on an 84 Landfall 35 is affixed.  I'm wondering if 
there is a backing plate because if so there is no access to that part of the 
hull as they installed the floor and box over it.  Or is it just screwed in?
That part of the hull doesnt seem partcularly thick or strong.  I'm wondering 
if glassing over it to re-enforce it is a possibility??
Thanks in advance!
Peter Cowenhoven1984 Landfall 35Clinton, CT









Sent from Yahoo Mail on AndroidPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Yanmar Parts ?

[Peter W. via CnC-List]

I’ve had good experiences with bay shore marine engines in Annapolis.Pete W.90 C&C 30-2Irvington, Va.Sent from my iPadOn Feb 13, 2024, at 10:45 AM, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List  wrote:I just tried their website. No luck. I ordered an oil cooler from Scott Marine Power. They're in Florida. Price seemed ok. Shipping was high, but I think it was my fault. Douglas Mountjoy1988 C&C LF 39Mexico at large1984 Sabre 34Port Orchard, WA    On Tue, Feb 13, 2024, 09:28 nausetbeach--- via CnC-List  wrote:Hi all, I have ordered Yanmar parts from “marine diesel direct” for years as they had a good website that made finding the correct part fairly straight forward and they seemed to have good prices.  But I have not been able to connect with their website today, using multiple electronics.  They still show up in web searches, but no joy on connecting with the website.  Anybody else use them and / or know what happened to them?   More importantly, where are people getting Yanmar parts?  My local dealer is typically 30% or more higher which even after shipping charges makes online a better deal.  Am in CT and currently having the first real snow fall in years…  5” and counting.  Thanks,Brian  Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.StuPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Navtec hydraulic backstay - amateur rebuild

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Dennis, this is super description complete with part numbers. Thanks!

Interested to hear any updates on your diy assembly.

The Navtec on my 37 doesn’t leak fluid, but may be low or time to change.
Recovery after each pump is slow.

Peter McMinn

 _/)



On Sun, Jan 7, 2024 at 12:44 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> A fellow boater had a Navtec integral hydraulic backstay adjuster that
> blew the top seal.  As many of you know, this is probably the most common
> failure for these.  Exposure to UV and the elements deteriorates the rod
> wiper at the top of the cylinder and it's downhill from there.  (I
> recommend a 1/2 washer on top of the cylinder.)
>
> This list has been down this road many times.  There's always a discussion
> whether to take the thing to a local hydraulic shop or let Lew Townsend in
> Seattle rebuild it.  For the record, I sent Touche's adjuster to Lew a
> couple years ago and am a satisfied Lew client.
>
> So I called Lew and chatted with him about this "orphan" adjuster.  He
> asked some critical questions.  Was I going to keep it as a spare?  Was I
> going to try to auction it?  He commented that neither option was
> particularly economical.  H.  Then we talked about snow skiing.  We're
> both avid skiers.
>
> After some thought, I tended to agree with Lew.  Including shipping, a
> rebuild would be north of $400-500.  An expensive gamble to have it sit on
> eBay for weeks like others I've seen.
>
> So I decided to give the rebuild a shot myself.  The Navtec seal kit, IF
> you can find one, is about $200.  Philosophically, it's not much more than
> a manual hydraulic jack that compresses rather than lifts.  Internet
> research turned up a set of rebuild instructions.  See here:
>
>
> https://www.plaisance-pratique.com/IMG/pdf/navtec_hydraulik_service_manual.pdf
>
> Armed with instructions and a pair of calipers, off I went.  Disassembly
> of the cylinder was fairly straightforward.  I found several equivalent
> seals at mcmaster.com.  For those who are really interested, parts below
> are referenced on Page 8.
>
> Part  Qty   Navtec Mcmaster  Price
> 31  2HJ-2-215   9452K36$12.08   (Needed 2.  Had to buy 100)
> 35  1HI-005   9505K39 $4.83
> 36  1HN-002 9403K55  $2.30
>
> Jug of Fram Hydraulic Jack Oil AW32.  $10
>
> Reassembly went well.  I strapped it between two trees in my backyard and
> pressured it up.  I noticed the thing was leaking from the pump piston.
> Okay, I pulled the pump handle and piston.  The piston rod seal
> disintegrated when I removed it.  Turned out this is a generic U seal with
> o-ring 1/4x1/2x1/4.  Internet search on the Navtec number turned up
> numerous suppliers.  I bought it from Crescent Hydraulics in south Florida.
>
> Part  Qty   Navtec   CrescentPrice
> 39  112500250-250B   P125-00,250-250B   $4.05
>
> It's now back between the trees pressured up to 500-700.  Hard to tell
> because the gauge lens is very crazed.  But it seems to be holding.  I'll
> know for sure in a couple days.
>
> Granted, I did not get into the actual pump assembly and all the check
> valves, etc.  The cylinder walls, rods, etc. seemed to be in excellent
> condition so no polishing was necessary.
>
> So far I'm in it for less than $50.
>
> I want to replace the pressure gauge.  I can't find a generic one that is
> equivalent.  It needs to be a certain shape for the gauge cover to fit it.
> It looks like a gauge off a fire extinguisher.  Oh. well.  A challenge for
> later.
>
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Hand rail replacement- sources

[Peter W. via CnC-List]

Allan, hi,
I would like to acquire your old hand rails.
How much do you want for them, and what is the shipping cost?

Thx,
Pete W.
Siren Song
30-2 #171
Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 30, 2023, at 6:05 AM, Allan Rheaume  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Pete,
>  I have the rails your looking for, I changed to stainless 3 
> years ago and the old ones are in my boat shed.
> 
> Allan Rheaume
> Drumroll
> 30-2 # 90
> 
> On Wednesday, November 29, 2023 at 08:28:57 p.m. EST, Peter W. via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Anyone had any experience to share regarding the replacement of hand rails?
> I am looking for two(2) 6-loop hand rails for my 30MKII.
> I found several web sites, but I am not familiar with any of vendors.
> Also, from the (lack of) info, I can’t determine if the loops will match up 
> with the existing holes in the deck.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Pete W.
> Siren Song
> ‘90 C&C 30MKII
> Irvington, Va.
> Sent from my iPad
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Hand rail replacement- sources

[Peter W. via CnC-List]

Thanks so much for your ideas and comments.  I will check them out.Fair Winds,Pete W.Sent from my iPadOn Nov 30, 2023, at 1:54 PM, Peter W.  wrote:
Sent from my iPhoneBegin forwarded message:From: Matthew Wolford Date: November 30, 2023 at 7:34:30 AM ESTTo: Stus-List Cc: "Peter W." Subject: RE: Stus-List Re: Hand rail replacement- sourcesAs a follow-up, I should have noted that I also sent the original handrails to White Water for additional reference.  The purpose of the bolt hole pattern is to establish the bend.  The stainless rails for my two projects came pre-bent.  You can’t just bend them in place during installation like you can do with wood.  The stainless is too rigid. From: Matthew Wolford via CnC-List  Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2023 7:26 AMTo: 'Stus-List' Cc: 'Peter W.' ; Matthew Wolford Subject: Stus-List Re: Hand rail replacement- sources Peter: I replaced the handrails on my 34, and subsequently on my 42 Custom, with stainless.  In my case, I removed the old handrails, laid out pieces of thick paper over the bolt holes (totally flat, taped in place), and made patterns of the holes.  The paper patterns were then rolled up and shipped to White Wate Marine (Port Huron, MI).  The rails on my 34 came with bolts welded on.  Most fit, but a few required a little adjustment (filling/drilling).  The rail for my 42 came with nuts welded in place, so the bolts are installed from inside the boat.  Again, most of the bolt holes lined up, but a few needed adjustment.  On the 42 replacement, we discovered that welding distorted the threads on a few of the nuts, so we ran a tap through each one to resolve the issue.  Overall, White Water does nice work, and I greatly prefer stainless handrails. https://whitewatermarineinc.com/ Matt1976 C&C 42 Custom From: Nathan Post via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2023 8:57 PMTo: Stus-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>Cc: Peter W. <typhoonpe...@gmail.com>; Nathan Post <nathan8...@gmail.com>Subject: Stus-List Re: Hand rail replacement- sources Peter, I replaced the teak rails with stainless steel with three attachment points which Kato Marine https://www.katomarine.com/about.htm  in 2020.  They made custom length for me and shipped so it was pretty easy.  They also make a great tieoff point for a lanyard when going up to the mast if I don't have jack lines rigged and it gets a bit rough on a day sail. I had them put the mounting points at the lengths required for the teak rail although there are fewer so that they would align with some of the existing the holes at each end and in the middle.  I fiberglassed over the other holes during a full deck refit and repaint that I did at the same time. If you aren't doing that then you could probably just put a bolt and washer through the old holes you don't need with some bed-it tape to seal it. Love the stainless steel and it is no maintenance. While the stainless steel was built straight, it was flexible enough to bend to match the deck curve as I installed it. Some say it gets hot in the sun but at least here in NE I haven't had a problem with it getting too hot to touch. NathanS/V Wisper1981 C&C 34 On Wed, Nov 29, 2023 at 8:28 PM Peter W. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:Anyone had any experience to share regarding the replacement of hand rails?I am looking for two(2) 6-loop hand rails for my 30MKII.I found several web sites, but I am not familiar with any of vendors.Also, from the (lack of) info, I can’t determine if the loops will match up with the existing holes in the deck.Thanks,Pete W.Siren Song‘90 C&C 30MKIIIrvington, Va.Sent from my iPadPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.StuPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Hand rail replacement- sources

[Peter W. via CnC-List]

Anyone had any experience to share regarding the replacement of hand rails?
I am looking for two(2) 6-loop hand rails for my 30MKII.
I found several web sites, but I am not familiar with any of vendors.
Also, from the (lack of) info, I can’t determine if the loops will match up 
with the existing holes in the deck.

Thanks,

Pete W.
Siren Song
‘90 C&C 30MKII
Irvington, Va.
Sent from my iPad
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: chain plate rebed ahead

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Excellent suggestions, thank you! I have a roll of Bed-it tape on the way 
(https://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php?55717) and a call out among sailing 
buddies for a good moisture meter. Forgot about using alcohol for moisture 
abatement, I’ll get on that today.

Nathan, how deep do you cut that 45—just passed the gelcoat into glass?

Matt, yes, I was actually relieved the water (maybe 1.5qt when discovered) was 
contained. Keeping it all warm drying in the wettest part of the year will be a 
challenge.

The chainplates were new fabs installed in a 2011 refit, replacing the 
originals. They were built to spec and still look like new. There doesn’t 
appear to be any lifting off the deck, which I’ve heard is an issue when the 
bolt holes oval due to…other issues. The yard used caulking on the deck instead 
of butyl, which probably accounts for the failure. Anxious to start getting 
things apart to dry/inspect the backsides.

So, a question on cored deck design for my vintage boat (‘85). Do these decks 
have solid glass around the chainplate?
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Surveyor in CT?

[Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List]

I used this gentleman in 2019, James M. Curry - Clinton, CT 06413.  He came to 
Branford Bruce & Johnsons.
He might be retired by now though.
Peter CowenhovenWaves of Change1984 Landfall 35

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 5:36 AM, nausetbeach--- via 
CnC-List wrote:   
All,

My insurance company is wanting a C&V survey for the first time in 25 years.  
The timing is not ideal as the boat is hauled, winterized, and covered, and the 
policy renews in weeks. 

  

Can anyone recommend a surveyor in CT?  Thought there was someone looking for a 
surveyor in Branford recently but cannot find that string.  The boat is in 
Branford for the winter. 

  

Thanks,

Brian
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu  
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List chain plate rebed ahead

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Greetings,
I discovered water via failed bedding at the starboard chain plate had been
draining into the cavity behind the settee bulkhead where the
plate/nuts are accessible. It's all glassed but the trapped water sloshed
during sailing and saturated the unsealed plywood edges of the access port.
Now I'm worried about rot around the plate bolts in addition to a wet deck
core. Ugh.

I've temp sealed the deck plate with Gorilla tape and am considering ways
for drying things under deck (we're on a ball so no AC). Once I get a
handle on any rot issues, I'll be cleaning/rebedding both chainplates.

Any thoughts on this process?
Thoughts on using butyl tape for bedding instead of 4200?
The nuts/bolts were new when new chainplates were installed in 2011. Should
I replace these?

The boat is a 1985 37' 6.7 draft

Any expertise, references, links will be most appreciated.


Peter McMinn
SV Sirius

 _/)
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Over the winter, I rebuilt the Barient 2-sp 28s that were original on my
‘85 37. Only had to replace the springs. Pawls appeared to have been
replaced a few years ago but showed minimal wear; the gears and bearings
were well greased by previous owners and in good shape. I’d say maintenance
matters if the winch is serving your needs. Definitely worth a rebuild,
considering the replacement cost.

On Tue, Sep 12, 2023 at 5:13 PM cenelson--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You can get a winch service kit from Lewmar/Defender/West Marine with
> grease, pawls, springs, etc for a few bucks.
>
> Clean them up, replace any bad springs/pawls, light oil on the pawls,
> grease (from kit) on spindles/teeth (?), reassemble and you will be likely
> as good as new. There are Lewmar assembly diagrams on-line but if you are
> careful not to lose any parts AND take one winch apart at a time so the
> other is there for a guide, and you should be fine. Its one of those dirty
> jobs but simple enough to do. Once you have done one, the next is much
> faster plus you don't need any special tools.
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
>
> On Tuesday, September 12, 2023, 07:20:44 PM EDT, Jeffrey A. Laman via
> CnC-List  wrote:
>
>
> Mike and others who have provided valuable input,
>
> This information on electric is very useful.  I wasn't intending to
> purchase electric in any case due to cost.
>
> I went to boat this afternoon.  Ashamed to say I did not even know what
> size the existing winches are.  They are Lewmar/England 42ST, likely
> original to boat, therefore 42 years old.  From what I am hearing from
> everyone, a Lewmar 42ST should be adequate for a C&C34.  But man, even in
> 12 knts wind it takes the full strength of two crew to get the last 2 feet
> in.  I was sensing that the winch handle was about to break.
>
> After reading more this afternoon, I am sure the winches are way past due
> for servicing.  Lewmar recommends 2 to 3 times a season!  This may be part,
> if not all, of the problem.  I suspect the winches were disassembled and
> greased about 10 to 12 years ago. Before that, who knows.
>
> Is a set of 42 year old winches worth disassembling, cleaning, greasing,
> and reassembling?  Will this result in a significant improvement?  What
> parts of the winch typically need to be replaced and can those Lewmar parts
> be obtained for such an old winch?
>
> Thanks again for all the very helpful advice on winch sizes.
>
> Jeff Laman
> 1981 C&C34 Harmony
> Ludington, MI
>
> --
> *From:* Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 12, 2023 2:43 PM
> *To:* 'Stus-List' 
> *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Electric Winches - Winch Size for C&C34
>
>
> Persistence came to us with Electric Lewmar 43ST winches for the
> primaries.  There were no secondaries.  For cruising ease the primaries had
> been located where secondaries normally would be and the mounting locations
> for the original primaries were faired and painted over.  The second set of
> manual Lewmar 43ST winches were mounted on the cabin top for use as halyard
> winches.  THIS WAS WAY OVERKILL!
>
>
>
> ST43 as halyard winches way larger than necessary.  Jib trimmers facing
> backward to trim genoa was awkward to say the least.  So we moved the cabin
> top Lewmar 43ST back to the original primary location and replaced cabin
> top halyard winches with Lewmar 30ST (Ocean series I believe)
>
>
>
> This still left us with electric Lewmar 43 ST.  First of all an electric
> winch can be nasty.  An inexperienced trimmer can damage the headsail using
> one.  We always had the switches turned off and used as a manual winch.
> Secondly these were AWFUL to maintain.  To service the winches the motor
> has to be dropped from beneath before the drums can come off to clean and
> lubricate the gears, pawls, etc …  Due to this and due to the lack of
> accessibility from beneath to do this these winches were rarely serviced
> and never properly.  When running the spinnaker on these secondaries they
> were stiff and made spin handling more problematic than it should be (due
> to the lack of east servicing).
>
>
>
> In the end we traded these to someone with a pilothouse 44 foot boat for a
> set of new Lewmar 40 ST that are far superior for our purposes.  On top of
> the ease of servicing and better sizing for the boat removing the motors
> took away a LOT of unnecessary weight
>
>
>
> Just a story I thought I would share
>
>
>
> We are very happy with all of our Lewmar winches BTW
>
>
>
> Mike Hoyt
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax, NS
>
>
>
> *From:* nausetbeach--- via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 12, 2023 3:23 PM
> *To:* 'Stus-List' 
> *Cc:* nausetbe...@optonline.net
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Winch Size for C&C34
>
>
>
> Some other thoughts: For whatever you decide, believe both WM and Defender
> have BOGO days on winches during the year which could help reduce the
> wallet pain. Electric winches are more than a li

Stus-List Re: {Stus-List} Airhead

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Bill Coleman wrote:

> Got more info in on the composting heads. (just in case anyone is
> interested.)
> Interesting, but I don't see one in my future. Just hypothesizing, but I see
> only the most environmentally rabid women (and maybe men) accepting this
> concept.
>
> << http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewCompostingHeadInstall.htm
>
> I also found these tips.  They use a spray bottle of water to hit the toilet
> after using it.  If you use the coffee filter that should eliminate the skid
> marks.
>
> Tips for Using:
>
> Be prepared for land-lubbers to be somewhat frightened by the concept.
> Guests' responses range from curiosity to repulsion.  Make sure they
> understand how to check the liquid tank level so they don't overflow it.
> Try using a small spray bottle with water for "flushing."  This uses almost
> no water, but keeps the bowl clean.  We don't use the coffee filters for the
> solids, I don't know why anyone would.  It stays very clean without them,
> but you might find you have to retrain some of your muscles to allow timing
> for liquids and solids so you can wait to open the solid door...you get the
> gist.  In cold temperatures you have to use the enzymes.  They are literally
> called "Drain Care" and we've found that they also work well for unclogging
> galley sinks.  One small container will last you years.  Sometimes we had to
> divert heat from our heater into the head compartment to help remove some of
> the moisture in the air and to help the composting process.  This was only
> important after 2 or 3 days of constant rain and temperatures below 65F
> where the inside humidity would hover around 80% to 99% all day.  There can
> be smells from the toilet directly after use, after being stirred or if you
> are starting a new compost "session" and the bacteria isn't well founded.
> It's not as bad as the smell from vent hoses from a traditional holding
> tank, but you should be aware there are normal times when it isn't odor
> free.>>
>
> Bill Coleman
> C&C 39

Hello Bill,

I found these useful tips on the Airhead compositing toilet as wife and I as 
pursue replacing the toilet in our ‘85 37 and getting rid of the tank (yay). 
Did you vent yours and if so, how? I’m considering routing a vent forward to 
the anchor locker, but then, we have the vent from the anchor locker to the 
v-berth, hmm.

Anyway, just curious how the Airhead has worked out for you over time and if 
you have any other advice on the product.

Peter McMinn

C&C 37 SV Sirius
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Lithium battery source in USA?

[Peter W. via CnC-List]

Amazon?Sent from my iPhoneOn Aug 14, 2023, at 10:51 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  wrote:Dave,I purchased batteries from lythbattery.com in China.  No complaints!Check your insurance policy to make sure the batteries are not excluded before you invest the money.JoelOn Mon, Aug 14, 2023 at 10:33 AM Dave S via CnC-List  wrote:Hello all,
Looking to upgrade my new boat from agm to lithium and am wondering if anyone can recommend a source (industrial?) for LiFePo batteries.  Thanks!
Dave ex- 33-2 Windstar 
Now alubat OVNI 435 Sakura 


Sent from my iPhone
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
-- Joel 
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.StuPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: 37+ Steering Cable

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

I noticed when visiting a local (Victoria BC) used and consignment shop
that they had an Edson cable / chain kit on the shelf. Other than a quick
look I didn't pay too much attention (obviously cable diameter was too
large for my 27) but if you are interested I could explore further.

Peter

On Tue., Aug. 1, 2023, 12:55 p.m. Rob Hamlin via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thinking about my my off season punch list.
>
> Steering system is next up, after motor mounts and running gear last year.
>
> Any idea on cable and idlers required?
>
> Thanks
> Rob
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Shore Power Adapters.

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

There is no such thing. You cannot convert 120V to 240V (or 115V to 230V
 it is not 125 / 250) in a pigtail format. To get 240V out of 120V you
would have to use a step-up or isolation transformer. $500 to $1200+ for a
marine use model (and I expect a lot of them need much more than 30A). What
I described to you is exactly what you asked for, except of course the
'250' volt thing, which as I said does not exist.
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Shore Power Adapters.

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Unless you're cruising in Europe or UK (or a few other countries) you're
not bringing 120V together to 240V. NA electrical grid is 120V.

And Marinco does make the 30amp male to 15amp female connector. They are
also available from other companies as well for a lot less $. Search Amazon
shore power pigtail ... make sure they are UL listed and make sure the 30
amp connection is a L5-30P. Also it's 15 amp max. The 20 amp connection
(5-20P) has the neutral rotated 90 degrees.
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 27 Mainsail

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Thanks.

If I were to get a new one, I'd go with Leitch & McBride. Awesome product &
service ... and would match my genoa. But that's not in the cards right now.
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 27 Mainsail

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

I'm not sure at this point the age. It does come from a local loft and I'm
hoping they can give me some more info on it. Don't know the prior owner's
name but I do know the name of the boat.
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List C&C 27 Mainsail

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

I've determined the main on my 27 MkIII is actually sized for a MkII. So,
P=29ft vs 31ft and E=9.5ft vs 10ft ... which explains why I could never
fully hoist to the upper black mark. No idea how old the main is. It has a
couple patches. It had some stitching redone about 10 years ago and
converted to loose foot at the same time. I recall the loft mamager
inspecting it and making several comments at the time, for example on
batten pockets, along the lines of "we haven't done things like that for
decades" ... so that gives some perspective on age, perhaps.

Now I've come across a very decent main for $400 CAD, but it's for a
Newport 28. The Newport has a P=32.5ft and E=10.3ft. But I think this
particular one measures a P around 32ft. Regardless, a bit bigger than
ideal. So I have it from the seller to test fit. I'll see if I can get it
into one of the local lofts to be checked out.

Thoughts? Drop the boom a bit? Get it recut?
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Accurate Fuel Tank Measurements

[Peter W. via CnC-List]

Charlie, hi,
Thanks for your comments.  My tank is also a very odd shape.

My use of “measurement “ is probably a bit misleading.  “Calibrate” would be 
better.

Simply stated, I want to avoid overfilling, and spilling diesel fuel. 
  I have never been able to get an accurate reading from my gauge, and I have 
done a poor job of estimating how much fuel to add, when needed.
I have a yanmar 2gm20, and, at a quart of fuel per cylinder hourly, my 
consumption estimate is apparently too conservative.  Just haven’t been able to 
calibrate better.

Pete W
Siren Song
C&C30-2
Irvington, Va 


Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 27, 2023, at 10:44 PM, cenel...@aol.com wrote:
> 
>  Unless your tank is a rectangular cube, any measurements based on the 
> height of fuel in it will be approximate at best. And even then, if it is not 
> ‘level’ on any axis, it won’t be accurate.
> 
> For instance, my tank’s bottom is shaped to follow the hull shape for a 
> secure fit. Of course, when down to 1/4 ‘full’ by a level sensor, it has much 
> less than 1/4 tank by volume.(The same is true for automobile fuel tanks and 
> this is why most tank gauges fall much faster from 1/2 full to empty than 
> from full to 1/2 empty.)
> 
> There are gauge calibrators available the correct for this. AFAIK, they are 
> calibrated by adding fuel in known increments to an empty tank so that the 
> fuel gauge reflects the correct amount of fuel, not the height of the fuel. 
> (The calibrator is inserted in the fuel sensor wiring to change the level 
> sensor resistance to match the fuel volume instead of the fuel level).
> 
> This is likely more accuracy than typically necessary for recreational 
> boating—adding fuel when a level gauge reaches ~ 1/4 tank will prevent the 
> tank from ever going empty no matter what the gauge reads.
> 
> II am not a pilot but suspect that given the consequences of running out of 
> fuel at 10,000 feet, a different technology is used for airplane fuel 
> tanks—if not, I am sure such tanks are calibrated more accurately than most 
> boat fuel tanks!
> 
> Charlie Nelson 
> Water Phantom
> C&C 36 XL/kcb
> 
> 
> Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
> 
> On Tuesday, June 27, 2023, 9:34 PM, Peter W. via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Possibly.  I’ll investigate. Thanks.
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> > On Jun 27, 2023, at 8:14 PM, Korbey Hunt via CnC-List 
> >  wrote:
> > 
> > Can you add a sight guage?  Tap holes at bottom and top of tank.  Add an 
> > elbow fitting with clear fuel line material.
> > 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2023 12:52 PM
> > To: Peter W. via CnC-List 
> > Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
> > Subject: Stus-List Re: Accurate Fuel Tank Measurements
> > 
> > I use my Hobbes meter.  I take a picture at each fill-up and try to keep 
> > the tank at least 1/2 full. I have a pretty accurate picture of my per hour 
> > consumption. Seems close enough for me.
> > 
> >> On 6/27/2023 11:08 AM, Peter W. via CnC-List wrote:
> >> I like to keep my fuel tank as full as possible as the best way to keep 
> >> out water.
> >> 
> >> Can anyone share their procedure to determine (with reasonable accuracy) 
> >> how much fuel their tank holds, at any given time?
> >> While I have a fuel gauge, it isn't very accurate as it under-estimates 
> >> how much fuel is in tank (by several gallons).
> >> I'm thinking of trying to use a wood or plastic dowel, but that would 
> >> require a "straight shot" to the tank bottom (I.e., no bends or 
> >> obstructions).
> >> Any thoughts?
> >> 
> >> Pete W.
> >> Siren Song
> >> C&C 30-2
> >> Irvington, Va
> >> 
> >> Sent from my iPad
> >> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
> >> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> >> https://www.p/
> >> aypal.me%2Fstumurray&data=05%7C01%7C%7C611b354ad52e4baad33e08db77480dd
> >> 3%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C638234923578751716%7CUn
> >> known%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haW
> >> wiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=K%2F2MOZ%2FYuWsk9GmmWQRi7lbCZYe
> >> QLMP9jj1XIfyy5hA%3D&reserved=0
> >> Thanks for your help.
> >> Stu
> > 
> > --
> > (\
> > Tom Buscaglia
> > SV Alera
> > C&C 37+/40
> > Vashon Island WA
> > (305) 409-3660
> > http://www.sv-alera.com/
> > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album

Stus-List Re: Accurate Fuel Tank Measurements

[Peter W. via CnC-List]

Possibly.  I’ll investigate. Thanks.

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 27, 2023, at 8:14 PM, Korbey Hunt via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Can you add a sight guage?  Tap holes at bottom and top of tank.  Add an 
> elbow fitting with clear fuel line material.
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
> Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2023 12:52 PM
> To: Peter W. via CnC-List 
> Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Accurate Fuel Tank Measurements
> 
> I use my Hobbes meter.  I take a picture at each fill-up and try to keep the 
> tank at least 1/2 full. I have a pretty accurate picture of my per hour 
> consumption. Seems close enough for me.
> 
>> On 6/27/2023 11:08 AM, Peter W. via CnC-List wrote:
>> I like to keep my fuel tank as full as possible as the best way to keep out 
>> water.
>> 
>> Can anyone share their procedure to determine (with reasonable accuracy) how 
>> much fuel their tank holds, at any given time?
>> While I have a fuel gauge, it isn't very accurate as it under-estimates how 
>> much fuel is in tank (by several gallons).
>> I'm thinking of trying to use a wood or plastic dowel, but that would 
>> require a "straight shot" to the tank bottom (I.e., no bends or 
>> obstructions).
>> Any thoughts?
>> 
>> Pete W.
>> Siren Song
>> C&C 30-2
>> Irvington, Va
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.p/
>> aypal.me%2Fstumurray&data=05%7C01%7C%7C611b354ad52e4baad33e08db77480dd
>> 3%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C638234923578751716%7CUn
>> known%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haW
>> wiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=K%2F2MOZ%2FYuWsk9GmmWQRi7lbCZYe
>> QLMP9jj1XIfyy5hA%3D&reserved=0
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
> 
> --
> (\
> Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (305) 409-3660
> http://www.sv-alera.com/
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Accurate Fuel Tank Measurements

[Peter W. via CnC-List]

I like to keep my fuel tank as full as possible as the best way to keep out 
water.

Can anyone share their procedure to determine (with reasonable accuracy) how 
much fuel their tank holds, at any given time?
While I have a fuel gauge, it isn’t very accurate as it under-estimates how 
much fuel is in tank (by several gallons).
I’m thinking of trying to use a wood or plastic dowel, but that would require a 
“straight shot” to the tank bottom (I.e., no bends or obstructions).
Any thoughts?

Pete W.
Siren Song 
C&C 30-2
Irvington, Va

Sent from my iPad
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Dual output solar controller

[Peter W. via CnC-List]

I am looking for feedback on dual output controllers.  

I want to add a battery bank to my existing setup, but I have a single 
controller now.  It’s a Renogy Rover 20A and has worked fine; however, they 
don’t offer a dual output controller currently.
 Thanks in advance for your help!
Pete W.
Siren Song 
‘90 C&C 30-2
Irvington, Va.

Sent from my iPad
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: West Coast Rendezvous

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Martin,
Sirius will be in PL on the night of 6/3 along with the rest of the PMYC
gang doing our Fal Joslin race.  May we could check out the progress on
Calypso then.

Peter

On Sun, May 28, 2023 at 2:10 PM Martin DeYoung via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I was hoping to take Calypso up to Telegraph Harbor this year but our
> painting/varnishing in prep for her "for sale" glamor shots will delay any
> voyage north.
>
> If any PNW boats are passing through Port Ludlow on their way north and
> want to meet up drop me a line.  With two boats in Port Ludlow and being
> PLYC's Port Captain I am at the marina most days.
>
> Martin DeYoung
> Calypso
> 1971 C&C 43
> Port Ludlow/Seattle
>
> Greta
> 1956 Matthews 42
> Port Ludlow
> --
> *From:* ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, May 28, 2023 11:27 AM
> *To:* C&C 
> *Cc:* ALAN BERGEN 
> *Subject:* Stus-List West Coast Rendezvous
>
> Anyone interested in attending the rendezvous without your boat: Telegraph
> Harbor is on Thetis Island, BC. There are several B&B's plus possibly other
> accommodations on the island. You can fly into Victoria, BC, and take a
> rental car to Chemainus. Then you can take a ferry, which runs regularly,
> to Thetis Island. There are also accommodations in Chemainus and other
> places on Vancouver Island.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

-- 
Peter McMinn

 _/)
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Yanmar 2GM pump for Therapy

[Peter W. via CnC-List]

Try Bay Shore Marine in Annapolis.  
Pete W.
Siren Song 
C&C 30-2
Irvington, Va

Sent from my iPad

> On May 19, 2023, at 11:41 AM, Thomas Perison via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello all - 
> Asking if by chance anyone in the Solomons MD area knows where I can get a 
> water pump for my Yanmar 2GM. 
> The final prep to leave has been beset with gremlins ! 
> Tom
> Therapy 29-2
> Solomons Md — soon Buffalo NY 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Secondary winches

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Hey all,

I have the original Barient 28s as primaries on my ‘85 37’ and with regular 
maintenance, they’re still working well and looking ok. Within a year, I’ll be 
acquiring a pair of B 26s of the same vintage that may need some work but hey, 
free winches:) 

I’d like to use the 26s as secondaries for spinnaker and sometimes headsail 
sheeting/furling. There’s room on the combing, and the angle from a rail block 
seems workable. 

Will this size be suitable for secondary winches? Also, for those who use 
secondaries, what are the pros and cons from your perspective?
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Leather wheel cover

[Peter Kirkwood via CnC-List]

I used the Edson product and it was very good.  Still looking great after 3
yearsEasy to use.

On Sun, Nov 27, 2022 at 7:02 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Anybody replace their leather wheel cover lately?
> I'm thinking of asking for a leather kit for my 52" wheel for Chistmas.
> The Edson price is $380 and Defender offers a discount but thy are out of
> stock.  Boatleather.com wants $300.  More if I add a foam liner.  Are there
> better sources?
>
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Annapolis, Md
> Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a
> contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Peter Kirkwood
Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Re: Fuel cap

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Hi Alan,

Sorry for the 10 year old thread response here. I have the same 
question—Replacement caps for RC deck fitting. Did you ever find a source?
Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Deck caps for tanks

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Hi all,

I have an ‘85 37 with what I think are the original plastic screw caps in the 
tank fill holes. I’d like to replace these with metal (chromed bronze?) caps. 
Any suggestions for a source?

Pete McMinn

S/V Sirius

Port Madison, Wa
Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Re: Rotella T5 - 10w30 vs 15w40?

[Peter W. via CnC-List]

I use 10-30, which I think Yanmar recommends.  The Rotella works well.  I keep 
the level of oil at about 80% of full and I see very little smoke and don’t 
have to add oil between changes (once a season).
Pete W.
Siren Song 
C&C30-2
Irvington, Va

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 26, 2022, at 3:51 PM, Dave S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Does it matter in any practical sense whether I use 10W-30, which is 
> available, versus 15 W 40, which was available last time I bought a jug…
> Yanmar 2GM….  Thx. 
> 
> Dave.   
> 
> Sent from my iPhone

Stus-List Re: Diesel fuel tank cap (Fuel Deck Fill)

[Peter W. via CnC-List]

Thx for all your responses.
I worried about a compatibility issue in the threading.
Yes, I unfortunately over-tightened the cap.
Pete W.

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 8, 2022, at 1:18 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> I replaced my fill with a "plastic" one, after I lost the old cap overboard. 
> As mentioned earlier, threads on replacement caps are different from the 
> threads on the C&C boats. The plastic one has a lever that lifts up to help 
> turn the top. If you're messing up the winch handle access, you're probably 
> tightening the top too much. Finger tight is enough.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> 
> 
> 
>> On Thu, Sep 8, 2022 at 8:02 AM Jeff Nelson via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I see rigrite.com also sells just the tops.
>> 
>> On 2022-09-07 18:29, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:
>> > I replaced my OEM fuel deck fill with new one last year.
>> > I found a stainless model that was winch handle operated, and not too 
>> > pricey, but it was not a direct replacment.  You may do better, taking the 
>> > cap to a metal fabricator and getting it retooled.
>> >
>> > The one I bought was actually smaller in diameter than the OEM aluminum 
>> > one.  I had to fill the hole in the fiberglass deck and drill to the right 
>> > size, before installing the new fill unit.  I was reparing areas of the 
>> > deck, so I had the material and tools to do it, plus I was painting the 
>> > deck, so it became a small part of much larger project and turned out 
>> > pretty nice.
>> >
>> > Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C&C 34R Annapolis
>> >
>> >
>> >> On 09/07/2022 3:52 PM Peter W. via CnC-List  wrote:
>> >>
>> >> My fuel cap requires a winch handle to open it, however, the “star” 
>> >> shaped inset is badly worn, making it difficult to unscrew.  It is OEM 
>> >> and 30+ years old (Perko brand), but I can’t find a suitable replacement.
>> >>
>> >> Anyone found one?  Or, has anyone been able to refurbish theirs?
>> >>
>> >> Pete W.
>> >> Siren Song
>> >> C&C 30-2
>> >> Irvington, Va.
>> >>
>> >> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>> -- 
>> Cheers,
>>Jeff Nelson
>>Muir Caileag
>>C&C 30 - 549
>>Armdale Y.C.

Stus-List Diesel fuel tank cap

[Peter W. via CnC-List]

My fuel cap requires a winch handle to open it, however, the “star” shaped 
inset is badly worn, making it difficult to unscrew.  It is OEM and 30+ years 
old (Perko brand), but I can’t find a suitable replacement.

Anyone found one?  Or, has anyone been able to refurbish theirs?

Pete W.
Siren Song 
C&C 30-2
Irvington, Va.

Sent from my iPad

Stus-List Re: Solar Panel on Bimini top

[Peter W. via CnC-List]

I use those long, styrofoam floats you see at pool and beach.  Because they are 
hollow. You can run a line through them.  I have a split backstay which helps 
Pete W
Siren Song 
C&C30-2
Irvington va

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 26, 2022, at 11:22 PM, Wade Glew via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Has anyone figured out how to mount a flexible solar panel on the bimini top 
> without the panel edges/corners chafing the sunbrella?
> 
> Wade
> Oh Boy, C&C 33 mk II
> Lake of the Woods

Stus-List Re: Defender, West, Sea Dog

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Hmm ... I wonder if that will result in a Canadian Defender presence?

On Fri., Feb. 18, 2022, 12:03 p.m. Bill Coleman via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> All sold! I hate to see these things going to hedge funds and private
> equity. It’s not the same as dealing with their founders.
>
>
>
> *FortNine Acquires Defender Industries*
>
>- Gary Reich 
>- 1 hour ago
>
> [image: 1_DEFENDER]
>
> Canadian powersports company FortNine, which sells equipment through an
> e-commerce platform, yesterday announced that it acquired Defender
> Industries in partnership with private equity firm Novacap.
>
> “FortNine and Defender share a passion for serving sports enthusiasts. We
> both have a very loyal customer base who trust our knowledge and experience
> to outfit them with the equipment they need,” FortNine founder and
> president Amin Sawaf *said in a statement
> *.
> “It is truly a privilege to acquire a company with such a stellar
> reputation, and we look forward to bringing our unique go-to-market
> expertise to the marine industry.”
>
> Added Defender president Stephan Lance: “The Lance family has been honored
> to serve our customers since 1938, and in FortNine, we believe that we have
> found the perfect match in our shared values. We are a marine outfitter
> staffed by passionate boaters that enable us to deliver on our mission of
> great customer service. We are proud to unite with FortNine's team of
> enthusiasts to drive Defender into its next stage of expansion.”
>
>
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com   cnc-list
cnc-list@cnc-list.com   cnc-list

Stus-List Re: 12 volt DC power supply

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

I've found 12-volt supplies in thrift shops - quite often an old Radio
Shack product.  In some cases with variable output. You could also use an
un-regulated supply (a 'wall wart') that you should be able to find in the
same place for just a couple dollars. Combine with a terminal strip and
even perhaps a small project box.
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 33-2 Used Spinnaker wanted

[Peter Kirkwood via CnC-List]

On Sun, Nov 14, 2021 at 9:06 AM Scott Baker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all! We’ve recently acquired a 33-2 and we’d like to train the family
> to race. We need a 3/4 Oz. Chute. Anyone have a used one to sell that has
> some life left in it?
> -Scott Baker
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 33-II vs 35-II

[Peter Kirkwood via CnC-List]

I have a heck of a time upwind with my 38-2 beating those 33’s.  Quick
upwind and point higher.  Downwind we can make some ground up but often
 not  enough to win

On Sat, Nov 13, 2021 at 3:39 PM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> On a rea h a longer waterline boat usually has faster hull speed so would
> pass. If all boats were same design they would have same hull speed and
> woukd not pass on a long reach. On short courses  with short legs even wl
> length makes little difference.
>
> I know the races rob talks about . They usually have legs over a mile long
> so the bigger 35 would certainly be faster downwind and I don't disagree
> that the slightly more modern 33-2 faster upwind
>
> Just my thoughts
>
> Mike
> Persistence
> Halifax
> --
> *From:* Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* November 13, 2021 10:48:15 AM
> *To:* Stus-List
> *Cc:* Robert Abbott
> *Subject:* Stus-List C&C 33-II vs 35-II
>
> Matthew,
>
> Actually it was not at all impossible...it happened consistently over 5
> raceson the beat, the 33-II would reach the first windward mark before
> the 35-IIthe 33 always pointed higher...not much changed on the reach
> but the 35 gained a few boat lengths...then on the run, 35-II would take
> back all the 33-II gained on the beat and then some.  The 35 crossed the
> finish just ahead of the 33
>
> In my opinion, both boats were well crewed/sailed.
>
> What am I saying that is impossible?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
> On 2021-09-10 10:33 a.m., Matthew via CnC-List wrote:
>
> That’s interesting.  I keep having issues with my local RC because they
> set only windward/leeward courses, no triangles and no reaches.  The
> reported rationale is that “no one ever passes anybody on a reach.”  What
> you’re saying is impossible.
>
>
>
> *From:* Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
> 
> *Sent:* Friday, September 10, 2021 9:23 AM
> *To:* Stus-List  
> *Cc:* Robert Abbott  
> *Subject:* Stus-List C&C 33-II vs 35-II
>
>
>
> Some years back when were campaigning a 33-II, we were racing her in the
> Bras d'Or Lakes.there was 35-II from Shediac, NB with a good crew.  The
> course was a beat, reach and runevery race was the same, the 33-ii
> would get to the first windward mark ahead the 35-II, but once on the reach
> and run, loose it all back.   There was nothing we could do to change it
> after 5 races.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Redwing for Sale

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Not mine ... it looks like a nice boat! Located in Sidney BC. Sale proceeds
to a good cause.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/334099815190165/
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Temperature gauge on Yanmar

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Exactly . someone put a dual-station temp sensor on my engine at some
point. I don't know about the PO but it sure confused the heck out of me!

On Fri., Oct. 29, 2021, 5:39 a.m. Joe Della Barba via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> FYI – many a powerboat has 2 sets of gauges. You can buy dual gauge
> senders and have 2 temperature gauges. I have seen boats with a second set
> below at the chart table. Don’t mix them up though, one gauge will read way
> off if used on a 2 gauge sender.
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C&C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Temperature gauge on Yanmar

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

One could also install a flow sensor on the raw water intake and connect it
to the alarm system. This one is meant for the Atomic 4, but the concept is
the same: https://moyermarine.com/product/raw-water-flow-sensor-ktas_01_563/
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Deleting messages

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

"So before you send the wrong message to the list – check and make sure it
wasn’t meant for your girlfriend"

Or vice versa! ... Thinking of a recent thread on FB about as-designed
displacement vs. Ioad cell readings on haul-out  "Yeah, once we got her
up in the slings she weighed WAY more than expected!"
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Insurance

[Peter W. via CnC-List]

Umbrella policy that I have is essentially a “personal liability “ policy, 
covering any instance where I am at risk for damages.  It is not specific to a 
watercraft or land craft.
Pete W.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 14, 2021, at 1:57 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> All the umbrella policies I found with a quick search seem to be home and 
> car, no mention of boats ☹
> Be glad you aren’t looking for airplane insurance, the recent payouts on 
> crashed 737s are getting paid for by EVERYONE, not just 737 owners.
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina C&C 35 MK I
> Kent Island MD USA
>  
>  
>  
> From: Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2021 9:32 AM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Dennis C. 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance
>  
> I suggest anyone reviewing their insurance coverages investigate an umbrella 
> policy.  I have a significant umbrella policy that will kick in in the event 
> the coverage on any of my individual policies is exceeded.  
>  
> One caveat for umbrella policies is they are usually cheaper if you have all 
> your policies with one carrier.
>  
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>  
> On Thu, Oct 14, 2021 at 8:23 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Great news 😊
> My marina requires $500K liability this year, so when I added it I didn’t 
> realize I was propagating it across all three of my policies. I now have what 
> I think is the only dinghy in the world with half a million dollars of 
> insurance.
> For all three boats it added up to $84/year extra. The dinghy is also insured 
> for 75 miles offshore, which would be quite the trip!
>  
> Joe
> Coquina C&C 35 MK I
>  
>  
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Calypso sighting

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Martin De Young, with my boat in Boat Haven this month, I spotted your boat in 
its restored glory. What a magnificent paint job👍
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: wind instrument

[Peter W. via CnC-List]

Dave,
I would be very interested to know if the old transducer was a Datamarine.
Thx
Pete 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 27, 2021, at 12:45 PM, David Knecht  wrote:
> 
> I am unclear on the question, but here is my experience with tridata 
> transducers.  I put in a Raymarine Seatalkng network a few years.  I added a 
> Airmar DST800 depth/speed/temp tri-ducer more recently which plugged right 
> into the network and worked perfectly on my Raymarine chartplotter.  All I 
> needed was a long Seatalk cable to get it to the port back by the engine.  
> The triducer even fit into the hole from the old transducer (not sure the 
> brand but could find out) with no modification. Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sep 25, 2021, at 7:42 PM, Peter W. via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> I am researching this very question (can tridata work in datamarine thru 
>> hull.
>> I am hoping a fellow lister might have an experience to share.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Sep 25, 2021, at 3:29 PM, Doug via CnC-List  
>>>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> When I upgraded to an es and an axiom plotters, I also upgraded to digital 
>>> radar, the i50 and i60 wind, speed, and depth. I also upgraded the 
>>> transducers as well. I tried to use an existing transducer from the old 
>>> Garmin system to no avail. 
>>> 
>>> Doug
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Doug Mountjoy 
>>> sv Rebecca Leah 
>>> C & C Landfall 39
>>> Port Orchard Yacht Club 
>>> Port Orchard, WA
>>> 
>>> 
>>>  Original message 
>>> From: Novabraid via CnC-List 
>>> Date: 9/25/21 10:46 (GMT-08:00)
>>> To: 'Stus-List' 
>>> Cc: csgilchr...@comcast.net
>>> Subject: Stus-List Re: wind instrument
>>> 
>>> Peter,
>>> 
>>> For your depth and speed instrument update from Datamarine to the Tridata 
>>> unit from Raymarine, are you able to incorporate your existing Datamarine 
>>> analog transducers using the Raymarine ITC-5 or will you need to change 
>>> through hull transducers as well?
>>> 
>>> I’d very much like to integrate my speed and depth with a NMEA 2000 
>>> chartplotter (Raymarine ES series) and eventually also add wind instruments 
>>> and digital radar but not sure if I need to upgrade the transducers.
>>> 
>>> Chuck Gilchrest
>>> 
>>> Half Magic
>>> 
>>> 83 Landfall 35
>>> 
>>>  
>>> From: Peter W. via CnC-List  
>>> Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2021 5:47 PM
>>> To: Stus-List 
>>> Cc: Peter W. 
>>> Subject: Stus-List Re: wind instrument
>>> 
>>>  
>>> FWIW, earlier this season, I replaced my TackTick wireless wind instrument 
>>> with Raymarine's latest offering.  You may recall Raymarine acquired 
>>> TackTick some years ago.  Except for the branding, The replacement is 
>>> identical to the original, which worked well for 13 seasons.  In fact, the 
>>> original unit still works fine for wind SPEED, but it is unreliable for 
>>> DIRECTION.  Probably, I could have returned it for testing and possible 
>>> repair, but I didn't want to deal with the cost of retrieval, downtime, and 
>>> re-install [which assumes the unit could be repaired].  
>>> 
>>> I like the unit.  I don't like it when I can't get through to Raymarine.  
>>> 
>>> Since my old Datamarine knotmeter is finally giving it up, I purchased a 
>>> suite of instruments - wind instrument + Tridata display, with wireless 
>>> cap.  could this work for you?
>>> 
>>>  
>>> Pete W.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> Siren Song
>>> 
>>> '91 C&C 30-2
>>> 
>>> Irvington, Va.
>>> 
>>>  
>>>  
>>> On Tue, Sep 21, 2021 at 2:00 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi,
>>> 
>>>  
>>> I am starting to think about adding the wind instrument to the boat. The 
>>> main reason is for being able to feed the data (wind direction) to the 
>>> EV-100 autopilot.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> I have a SeatalkNG network on the boat. I don’t have a Raymarine MFC, 
>>> though (I have a small Garmin chartplotter, instead).
>>> 
>>>  
>>> I am a minimalist (you could say “cheap”), so e.g., I don’t have a Navp

Stus-List Re: wind instrument

[Peter W. via CnC-List]

I am researching this very question (can tridata work in datamarine thru hull.
I am hoping a fellow lister might have an experience to share.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 25, 2021, at 3:29 PM, Doug via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> 
> When I upgraded to an es and an axiom plotters, I also upgraded to digital 
> radar, the i50 and i60 wind, speed, and depth. I also upgraded the 
> transducers as well. I tried to use an existing transducer from the old 
> Garmin system to no avail. 
> 
> Doug
> 
> 
> 
> Doug Mountjoy 
> sv Rebecca Leah 
> C & C Landfall 39
> Port Orchard Yacht Club 
> Port Orchard, WA
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Novabraid via CnC-List 
> Date: 9/25/21 10:46 (GMT-08:00)
> To: 'Stus-List' 
> Cc: csgilchr...@comcast.net
> Subject: Stus-List Re: wind instrument
> 
> Peter,
> 
> For your depth and speed instrument update from Datamarine to the Tridata 
> unit from Raymarine, are you able to incorporate your existing Datamarine 
> analog transducers using the Raymarine ITC-5 or will you need to change 
> through hull transducers as well?
> 
> I’d very much like to integrate my speed and depth with a NMEA 2000 
> chartplotter (Raymarine ES series) and eventually also add wind instruments 
> and digital radar but not sure if I need to upgrade the transducers.
> 
> Chuck Gilchrest
> 
> Half Magic
> 
> 83 Landfall 35
> 
>  
> 
> From: Peter W. via CnC-List  
> Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2021 5:47 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Peter W. 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: wind instrument
> 
>  
> 
> FWIW, earlier this season, I replaced my TackTick wireless wind instrument 
> with Raymarine's latest offering.  You may recall Raymarine acquired TackTick 
> some years ago.  Except for the branding, The replacement is identical to the 
> original, which worked well for 13 seasons.  In fact, the original unit still 
> works fine for wind SPEED, but it is unreliable for DIRECTION.  Probably, I 
> could have returned it for testing and possible repair, but I didn't want to 
> deal with the cost of retrieval, downtime, and re-install [which assumes the 
> unit could be repaired].  
> 
> I like the unit.  I don't like it when I can't get through to Raymarine.  
> 
> Since my old Datamarine knotmeter is finally giving it up, I purchased a 
> suite of instruments - wind instrument + Tridata display, with wireless cap.  
> could this work for you?
> 
>  
> 
> Pete W.
> 
>  
> 
> Siren Song
> 
> '91 C&C 30-2
> 
> Irvington, Va.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> On Tue, Sep 21, 2021 at 2:00 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
>  
> 
> I am starting to think about adding the wind instrument to the boat. The main 
> reason is for being able to feed the data (wind direction) to the EV-100 
> autopilot.
> 
>  
> 
> I have a SeatalkNG network on the boat. I don’t have a Raymarine MFC, though 
> (I have a small Garmin chartplotter, instead).
> 
>  
> 
> I am a minimalist (you could say “cheap”), so e.g., I don’t have a Navpod on 
> the binnacle; rather I have two individual RAM mount pods (for the 
> chartplotter and one for the p70s (the autopilot control head).
> 
>  
> 
> I unstep the mast for every winter, so I am biased towards a wireless unit.
> 
>  
> 
> I have a few questions:
> 
>  
> 
> - Any recommendations for the wind instrument (Raymarine, Garmin, B&G)? My 
> first choice would be a unit that talks NMEA 2000 (SeatalkNG) (as opposed to 
> an analog unit that requires an extra device (iTC-5?) to connect. But this is 
> mainly to control the costs.
> 
>  
> 
> - With limited space at the helm, what is the minimum requirement to feed the 
> wind data to the EV-100 autopilot? I don’t think I need the detailed wind 
> angle displayed, as long as the AP can follow. Though I could put the wind 
> display somewhere else (on the bulkhead?). But if that display is not 
> required AND I could save the cost by not including it, I might be fine with 
> that.
> 
>  
> 
> - Any strong recommendations against the wireless?
> 
>  
> 
> - Any other suggestions or recommendations?
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks
> 
>  
> 
> Marek
> 
>  
> 
> 1994 C270 ”Legato”
> 
> Ottawa, ON
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: wind instrument

[Peter W. via CnC-List]

FWIW, earlier this season, I replaced my TackTick wireless wind instrument
with Raymarine's latest offering.  You may recall Raymarine acquired
TackTick some years ago.  Except for the branding, The replacement is
identical to the original, which worked well for 13 seasons.  In fact, the
original unit still works fine for wind SPEED, but it is unreliable for
DIRECTION.  Probably, I could have returned it for testing and possible
repair, but I didn't want to deal with the cost of retrieval, downtime, and
re-install [which assumes the unit could be repaired].
I like the unit.  I don't like it when I can't get through to Raymarine.
Since my old Datamarine knotmeter is finally giving it up, I purchased a
suite of instruments - wind instrument + Tridata display, with wireless
cap.  could this work for you?

Pete W.

Siren Song
'91 C&C 30-2
Irvington, Va.


On Tue, Sep 21, 2021 at 2:00 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
>
>
> I am starting to think about adding the wind instrument to the boat. The
> main reason is for being able to feed the data (wind direction) to the
> EV-100 autopilot.
>
>
>
> I have a SeatalkNG network on the boat. I don’t have a Raymarine MFC,
> though (I have a small Garmin chartplotter, instead).
>
>
>
> I am a minimalist (you could say “cheap”), so e.g., I don’t have a Navpod
> on the binnacle; rather I have two individual RAM mount pods (for the
> chartplotter and one for the p70s (the autopilot control head).
>
>
>
> I unstep the mast for every winter, so I am biased towards a wireless unit.
>
>
>
> I have a few questions:
>
>
>
> - Any recommendations for the wind instrument (Raymarine, Garmin, B&G)? My
> first choice would be a unit that talks NMEA 2000 (SeatalkNG) (as opposed
> to an analog unit that requires an extra device (iTC-5?) to connect. But
> this is mainly to control the costs.
>
>
>
> - With limited space at the helm, what is the minimum requirement to feed
> the wind data to the EV-100 autopilot? I don’t think I need the detailed
> wind angle displayed, as long as the AP can follow. Though I could put the
> wind display somewhere else (on the bulkhead?). But if that display is not
> required AND I could save the cost by not including it, I might be fine
> with that.
>
>
>
> - Any strong recommendations against the wireless?
>
>
>
> - Any other suggestions or recommendations?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> 1994 C270 ”Legato”
>
> Ottawa, ON
>
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 84 Landfall 35 vs 91 Morris Justine 36

[Peter Kirkwood via CnC-List]

Lots of discussion at our club on this as we started the year with set mark
racing which to me is fun -sometimes- but  there is very little to think
about in terms of strategy and tactics.  The W/L courses bring that aspect
of competition back in and is also a great way to hone boat handling
skills.  Two or 3 times a course with flying sails is a workout for sure.

Peter Kirkwood
Renaissance
1977 38 mk 2

On Fri, Sep 10, 2021 at 10:00 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> With regard to the reaching capabilities of the 35-1 and 35-2, when the RC
> set a teaching course, some of my competition said to me before the race
> “they might as well give Touche’ the trophy now”.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touché 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 84 Landfall 35 vs 91 Morris Justine 36

[Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List]

Hah, good point, that reminds me I've got tired old sails and the Morris had 
the brand new fancy gray ones!!

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Thu, Sep 9, 2021 at 5:36 PM, Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:   Lol-  never race either but if I did I’d probably notice that the 33-2 
is faster than most others I encounter on the water, especially in light air, 
should I be noticing such things.     I did get schooled last weekend by a good 
friend (an accomplished racer)  in a C&C 32 with tired sails.  (My 33-2 is 
faster, hands down, I’m not.) I Had to work very hard and find another gear to 
slowly catch up.   This in support of dwight’s point - the driver may matter 
more than the car.
Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 9, 2021, at 5:05 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List  
wrote:



 Dwight, that doesn’t apply to me. I’m not like that. Besides my boat is so 
fast it’s never much of a contest. 😀
Andy

Andrew Burton26 Beacon HillNewport, RI USA 02840
+401 965 5260https://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/



On Sep 9, 2021, at 16:03, dwight veinot via CnC-List  
wrote:



For some of us a race starts every time another sail is in sight. I am a 
little bit of that vintage lately having become more selective based on 
potential boat speed or phrases numbers. The landfalls are great C&C’s. I had a 
landfall 35 close by me in the yard. Nice and the 38 too. I like the ways my 
35MKII flies on that tack. Waterline length is important but sail trim and crew 
work snd helm control are important. Get the boat in the groove on that tack 
probably she’ll let you know
On Wed, Sep 8, 2021 at 11:05 PM Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Always pleasantly surprised at the speed of the C&C. This past Sunday with 10 
to 15kn  wind I was sailing from Shelter Island with a friend in a 92 Morris 
Justine.  On the a 13 mile run between Orient Point and Westbrook CT on a beam 
to close reach the C&C Landfall consistently outpaced the Morris. By the end we 
were probably close to 3/4 mile ahead.
I though weight might be the biggest factor but the sail area to displacement 
favored the Morris??  Does this come down to hull shape?  Not sure I was out 
sailing him as I think he was pretty dialed in as well.   I suppose the Morris 
may be more built for offshore maybe??  Would love some thoughts from the group!
Thanks in advance!!

Sent from Yahoo Mail on AndroidThanks to all of the subscribers that 
contributed to the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show 
your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
-- 
Sent from Gmail MobileThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the 
list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the 
list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu  
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 84 Landfall 35 vs 91 Morris Justine 36

[Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List]

It was against the current so 4.5 kn to 5kn over ground

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Thu, Sep 9, 2021 at 11:44 AM, Korbey Hunt wrote:   
How fast were you traveling?
Get Outlook for AndroidFrom: Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List 

Sent: Wednesday, September 8, 2021 6:04:58 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Peter Cowenhoven 
Subject: Stus-List 84 Landfall 35 vs 91 Morris Justine 36 Always pleasantly 
surprised at the speed of the C&C. This past Sunday with 10 to 15kn  wind I was 
sailing from Shelter Island with a friend in a 92 Morris Justine.  On the a 13 
mile run between Orient Point and Westbrook CT on a beam to close reach the C&C 
Landfall consistently outpaced the Morris. By the end we were probably close to 
3/4 mile ahead.
I though weight might be the biggest factor but the sail area to displacement 
favored the Morris??  Does this come down to hull shape?  Not sure I was out 
sailing him as I think he was pretty dialed in as well.   I suppose the Morris 
may be more built for offshore maybe??  Would love some thoughts from the group!
Thanks in advance!!

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android  
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List 84 Landfall 35 vs 91 Morris Justine 36

[Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List]

Always pleasantly surprised at the speed of the C&C. This past Sunday with 10 
to 15kn  wind I was sailing from Shelter Island with a friend in a 92 Morris 
Justine.  On the a 13 mile run between Orient Point and Westbrook CT on a beam 
to close reach the C&C Landfall consistently outpaced the Morris. By the end we 
were probably close to 3/4 mile ahead.
I though weight might be the biggest factor but the sail area to displacement 
favored the Morris??  Does this come down to hull shape?  Not sure I was out 
sailing him as I think he was pretty dialed in as well.   I suppose the Morris 
may be more built for offshore maybe??  Would love some thoughts from the group!
Thanks in advance!!

Sent from Yahoo Mail on AndroidThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Baby stay vs new headsail

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Great thoughts all. I use our hydraulic backstay to much greater effect. I’m 
going to tie the baby back and watch the results on the main, which likely was 
cut for that lower fwd tension. We sail in the Salish, so heavy air is 
relatively shortlived, but some recent passages with blasts to 30 make me want 
to keep the stay ready to use.

A telling observation is that the car on the Schaefer track has suffered some 
serious torque (in SF Bay) and is only about 50% functional.

Thank you!
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Baby stay vs new headsail

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

We’ve been sailing this summer with two exhausted composite headsails (110&125) 
purchased with our 37, Sirius.

The leeches on both sails reveal a tortured  past with the babystay. With a new 
Precision tiradial 120 coming over winter, we’re practicing tacks with no 
babystay contact, backwinding lightly to pull the sail over.

Improvement needed.

For those of you with babystays, what strategies do you employ to avoid sail 
contact with the stay and/or minimizing damage?

I’ll search archives, too. Thx
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bottom paint gallons

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Thanks, Dave. That’s reassuring😅

On Thu, Aug 26, 2021 at 8:01 PM Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Pete,
>
> Two gallons should be more than enough.
>
> I’ve always purchased two gallons and had nearly half to a third of a
> gallon left over. In non-racing application with a foam roller it has been
> sufficient. And this is on the full keel version.
>
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> 1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana
> Reedville, VA
>
>
> On Aug 26, 2021, at 6:41 PM, Peter McMinn via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Fist time bottom painting my 37. I bought the paint but now thinking 2
> gallons isn’t enough for two coats. Pettit Trinidad (hard) label says
> theoretical coverage is 450 ft²/gallon.
>
> The 37 is 28’ at the waterline.
>
> 2 gallons more than enough or not enough?
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Peter McMinn

 _/)
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Bottom paint gallons

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Fist time bottom painting my 37. I bought the paint but now thinking 2 gallons 
isn’t enough for two coats. Pettit Trinidad (hard) label says theoretical 
coverage is 450 ft²/gallon. 

The 37 is 28’ at the waterline.

2 gallons more than enough or not enough?
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: need fuel pump for Universal M4-30

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Aircraftspruce.ca might have an option for you.

On Mon., Aug. 16, 2021, 1:20 p.m. Bill Coleman via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello Dwight,
>
> I didn't replace, but added a Facet Gold Flo pump as a spare and for use as
> a filter-filler. Works great.
>
> Kind of like this.
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/274441981054?epid=1028287472&hash=item3fe6044c7e:g
> :
> Bg4AAOSwPQlfIEuL
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: dwight veinot via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> Sent: Monday, August 16, 2021 3:51 PM
> To: Stus-List
> Cc: dwight veinot
> Subject: Stus-List need fuel pump for Universal M4-30
>
> Hi folks,
> I need to get a new electric fuel pump for the Universal M4-30 in
> Alliana.I have changed the fuel filters and there is ample flow from
> the fuel tank but the engine died when put into gear and now won't
> start and seems starved for fuel. Has anybody here replaced an
> electric fuel pump and do you have any leads on where I might purchase
> one.Thanks
> Dwight Veinot
> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks -
> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Replacement of Ladder for CnC 30 Mk 1

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Ah ... maybe this explains it ... found at least one of the prior responses
from the list:

"FYI, I had the following interaction with the guy (Joe) on Facebook
Marketplace:

Randy: Hi, are the cover and furler still available?

Joe: Yes, it's available.
Joe: 750 for the furler
Joe: 500 for the cover

Randy: How old are they?

Joe: Gosh idk. We’re talking older boats here. If your just here hunting
for deals best take your business somewhere else."


On Mon., Aug. 2, 2021, 11:10 a.m. Peter Fell,  wrote:

> Alex
>
> It's been posted up for a while ... he may have disposed of it by now and
> not removed the ad. I think it was also posted on usedvictoria but I don't
> see it now. Try Steve at Tradewinds Boaters Exchange at Canoe Cove Marina
> ... he parts out insurance write-offs. You never know he may have bought
> the boat?
>
> Also, I posted the link to this previously. Someone responded and knew the
> boat ... maybe they know the status?
>
> Regards
>
> Peter
>
>
> On Mon., Aug. 2, 2021, 11:01 a.m. Alexander Netherton, <
> granite...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Peter,
>> Thanks for this, I also saw this add. Sounds ideal. But,unfortunately,
>> the author does not respond to email or texts.
>> Best, Alex
>> --
>> *From:* Peter Fell 
>> *Sent:* August 2, 2021 10:38 AM
>> *To:* Stus-List 
>> *Cc:* Alexander Netherton 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Replacement of Ladder for CnC 30 Mk 1
>>
>> I don't see a boarding ladder in the pictures, but perhaps a solution
>> there. Otherwise ... other parts of interest?
>>
>> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/193193982627846/
>>
>> On Mon., Aug. 2, 2021, 9:53 a.m. Alexander Netherton via CnC-List, <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hello,
>>
>> When testing out my stern ladder in my 'almost new' CnC 30, it failed,
>> breaking off at the two points it enters the stern.
>> The quick replacement I picked up to board port or starboard is an
>> unworkable solution.
>> Got any suggestions about rebuilding the original or a better port or
>> starboard solution?  I would like to board after swimming and, of course,
>> be able to board a MOB. I gut feeling is that the original position was
>> awkward.
>>
>> Alex,  Dulcibella, Nanaimo, BC
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>>
>>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Replacement of Ladder for CnC 30 Mk 1

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

I don't see a boarding ladder in the pictures, but perhaps a solution
there. Otherwise ... other parts of interest?

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/193193982627846/

On Mon., Aug. 2, 2021, 9:53 a.m. Alexander Netherton via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> When testing out my stern ladder in my 'almost new' CnC 30, it failed,
> breaking off at the two points it enters the stern.
> The quick replacement I picked up to board port or starboard is an
> unworkable solution.
> Got any suggestions about rebuilding the original or a better port or
> starboard solution?  I would like to board after swimming and, of course,
> be able to board a MOB. I gut feeling is that the original position was
> awkward.
>
> Alex,  Dulcibella, Nanaimo, BC
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: water tanks interconnected, or not?

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Apologies for this late follow up. I discovered that when I opened the fill cap 
on the port side, the tanks would *slowly* equalize. I blew out the vents on 
both sides, but this did not seem to improve anything. At least I now can get 
the water distributed and then shut off a tank when full.
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Best spot to get Tee shirts

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

How about Maritime Tees?

https://maritimetees.net/



On Sat., Jul. 24, 2021, 8:37 a.m. Rod Stright via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Where Is the source to get quality Tee shirts (long and short) custom made
> for C&C Yachts in Canada and the US?
>
>
>
> *Rod Stright*
>
> *President*
>
> *C&C 99 Class Association*
>
> *Halifax*
>
> *Nova Scotia*
>
>
>
> Rod
>
> Halifax
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Dorade vent replacement

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Thx Richard. That makes the best sense and it’s way cheaper;)
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Dorade vent replacement

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

My 85 37 has the traditional cowl vents on the dorade boxes. Jib sheet caught 
one and tossed it in the drink yesterday, motivating me to upgrade to a low 
profile vent that will fit the 7” space. Nicro and Marinco make a nice mini 
solar vent that will fit, but I think these are designed for direct thru-deck 
application, not a dorade box. 

What solutions have you folks found for a low profile vent?
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: A fun video...

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Thanks for posting this, David. I hope this boat finds the right set of hands 
to give her another half century. 

In testing to see the cockpit engine access and wondering how many older C&Cs 
have this. Have thought many times I’d like to add one to my 85 37. Then I 
shudder at the possible leakage factor. 

Sure would be nice valve adjustment time.
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Wheel Drive Autopilot

[Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List]

Thanks so much Joe.  Didn't know there was a belt on the 4000.  Does it go 
around the whole wheel assembly?  It's hidden nicely.
I will probably do as you say and buy a new drive unit and see if that works.


Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Thu, Jun 24, 2021 at 3:58 PM, Della Barba, Joe via 
CnC-List wrote:
I have an old AH-4000. If it starts doing what you describe the belt may be 
slipping or the pin that holds the drive gear is going. I have rebuilt my drive 
many times and my current unit is a combination of 3 or 4 old ones I have 
scavenged over the years.
 
You can try and fix it or get a new drive for around $600 or so. It will work 
fine with the AH-4000 computer. The CPT is a much stronger unit, but keep in 
mind in both cases the weight of the boat is being used as a proxy for how hard 
the boat is to steer. These things are really only loosely related at best. An 
AH-4000 has plenty more power than needed to steer a freighter, it isn’t 
physically hard to steer a big ship. The issue would be the steering algorithms 
would be way off.
 
If your boat is hard for YOU to steer, Otto will have a hard time too. After 
fixing or replacing your drive I would look to getting the boat to balance.
 
All that said, the AH-4000 is hopeless in a big following sea.
 
  
 
Joe
 
Coquina
 
C&C 35 MK I
 
  
 
  
 
From: Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2021 2:18 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Peter Cowenhoven 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Wheel Drive Autopilot
 
  
 
Does anyone have any experience with the CPT belt driven vs the old Autohelm 
4000?  Does the CPT have more turning force?
 
  
 
I've got the old 4000 and many times it doesn't turn the wheel and just clicks. 
 Certainly when there's a lot weather helm there's no chance.
 
  
 
I'm also wondering if a new 4000 drive unit would be able to hold the force of 
the wheel better.
 
  
 
I see the 4000 or the new EV 1000 is rated st 16,500 and I'm at about 13,500 
while the CPT is rated to 40,000.
 
  
 
Thanks in advance for any intel or thoughts on this.
 
  
 
Best,
 
  
 
Peter
 
  
 
84 Landfall 35
 
Westbrook, CT
 
  
 
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
 Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu  
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Wheel Drive Autopilot

[Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List]

Does anyone have any experience with the CPT belt driven vs the old Autohelm 
4000?  Does the CPT have more turning force?
I've got the old 4000 and many times it doesn't turn the wheel and just clicks. 
 Certainly when there's a lot weather helm there's no chance.
I'm also wondering if a new 4000 drive unit would be able to hold the force of 
the wheel better.
I see the 4000 or the new EV 1000 is rated st 16,500 and I'm at about 13,500 
while the CPT is rated to 40,000.
Thanks in advance for any intel or thoughts on this.

Best,
Peter
84 Landfall 35Westbrook, CT

Sent from Yahoo Mail on AndroidThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 2'x8' sheet of smoke grey 3/16th plexi in MD

[Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List]

I went thru this last year in CT.  Hard to cheaply get the plexi.  Local plexi 
guy in Saybrook got the 3/16 in  2064 tint and cut two windows for $450.

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Tue, Jun 22, 2021 at 10:46 AM, rockland bazemore via 
CnC-List wrote:   Thanks to all of the subscribers that 
contributed to the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show 
your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu  
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Insurance for Older Boats

[Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List]

I've got an 84 Landfall 35 insured thru Safeco/Helmsman for less than a grand.  
Stated value is 15k and Safe Harbor makes you carry 500k liability.
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Tue, Jun 22, 2021 at 10:19 AM, Matthew via CnC-List 
wrote:   Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu  
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Parting Out C&C 30-1

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Right ... a 30-year old furler is worth just as much as a 10-year old
furler. Sounds like a wise plan of action Randy.
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Parting Out C&C 30-1

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Not mine  perhaps of some interest:
https://www.usedvictoria.com/all/38880626
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: clogged head hoses

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

SEW Clean
This is a non-toxic descaler that fr us has proven its weight In gold.

Living aboard during this project must be interesting.

On Mon, May 3, 2021 at 9:33 AM Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Good Morning All,
>
> I am in the process of replacing my Stainless steel holding tank, due to
> holes that are a result of corrosion. This is requiring me to make one out
> of fiberglass. No one makes a tank this size and shape needed. This led me
> to checking the hoses for condition. I found that the hoses from the toilet
> to tank are severely clogged. Not sure how any fluid was getting through.
> Currently with the aft cabin torn apart my boat is unusable for anything,
> including living aboard, which I am.
>
> My question is this. What does everyone use to help keep the lines clear?
> Do you pull them out every few years and clean them? Is there a chemical
> that I can flush down that will help keep them clean?
>
> Thanks,
> Doug
>
>
>
> --
> Douglas Mountjoy
> 253-208-1412
> Port Orchard YC, WA
> Rebecca Leah
> C&C LandFall 39
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Peter McMinn

 _/)
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Removing lettering

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

I just removed the adhesive port of call on my transom. Adding to what's
been suggested, I found a plastic razor blade to be far less of a hazard to
my topside paint.

Peter McMinn

 _/)



On Wed, Apr 21, 2021 at 12:53 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I've had very good experience with MEK.  Test first.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Wed, Apr 21, 2021, 15:49 Neil Andersen via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> What solvent should I use to remove the residual adhesive??
>>
>> Neil
>> 1982 C&C 32, FoxFire
>> Rock Hall, MD 21661
>>
>> --
>> *From:* Dean McNeill via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, April 21, 2021 3:22 PM
>> *To:* Stus-List
>> *Cc:* Dean McNeill
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Removing lettering
>>
>> Adhesive lettering is WAY easier than old painted lettering!
>>
>> A heat gun and a sharp scraper are your friends. The heat gun will loosen
>> the adhesive on the vinyl and then you can get a scraper or razor edged
>> scraper in underneath to peel it off.
>>
>> Dean
>> C&C 34
>> Halifax, NS
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Auto pilot???

[Peter Kirkwood via CnC-List]

Agree.  Went with the hydraulic ram on my 38 and it is excellent and hasn’t
been overpowered yet in any conditions

On Mon, Apr 19, 2021 at 11:35 AM Don Marlin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My 40 had a wheel pilot when I bought it. (ST4000+ and the wheel ring)
> It was only useful for motoring in calm seas.
> The mechanism would get overpowered in anything else and then it would
> just quit trying.
> I viewed it as a safety item and so I have since upgraded to a hydraulic
> ram on the quadrant and it works much better.
>
> I left the electronics alone (ST4000+) so that will need to be upgraded
> when the budget allows.
> For now it is reliable in the sense the mechanics don't get overpowered.
>
> If you are starting from scratch I would find a way to install a below
> decks AP.
>
>
> On Mon, Apr 19, 2021 at 11:11 AM Ted_Relinda--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I am looking for suggestions on an auto pilot for our 40-2. I don't think
>> the Raymarine wheel pilot will work good enough. Anybody got suggestions on
>> either s wheel mount or a quadrant mount. What do you use???  Also I would
>> like to be able to connect to my B&G Zues3 down the line.  Thanks for any
>> input.
>> Ted
>> Ten-Ten
>> Punta Gorda,Fl.
>>
>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>> 
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Emergency tiller on a 37

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

John, thanks very much. From your pics, that’s just my set up. So you can
get full steerage from that angle—no conflict with wheel?

On Fri, Apr 16, 2021 at 7:18 PM Richard Bush via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> John, I'd like to see your pics, thanks!
>
> Richard
> s.v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane
> <https://www.google.com/maps/search/2950+Breckenridge+Lane?entry=gmail&source=g>,
> Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: John Conklin via CnC-List 
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: petemcm...@gmail.com ; John Conklin <
> jconk...@hotmail.com>
> Sent: Fri, Apr 16, 2021 9:26 pm
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Emergency tiller on a 37
>
> Hi Peter,
> On My 37 the access plate just under helm seat  is remover and a long pole
> with square base is inserted into matching female square top of the rudder
> post. The pole only fits/aims sideways ( toward engine control panel) and
> you actually steer  from there.
> After reading about this topic last year I decided to check it out and
> document it. I have pics but its too much of a pain to post pics on here
> using google drive. Happy to send them  along if anyone would like to see
>  the emergency tiller system, really works nice, and I could see steering
> with this in a pinch no problem.
>
> John Conklin
> S/v Halcyon
>
> On Apr 16, 2021, at 7:25 PM, Peter McMinn via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Trying to understand how the emergency tiller works on my 37. As others
> have noted on their 35II, the access aft of the pedestal is less than
> ideal, if not dangerous. Any workarounds or mods I should consider?
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks -
> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Peter McMinn

 _/)
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Emergency tiller on a 37

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Trying to understand how the emergency tiller works on my 37. As others have 
noted on their 35II, the access aft of the pedestal is less than ideal, if not 
dangerous. Any workarounds or mods I should consider?
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: From richard - now Airhead

[Peter Kirkwood via CnC-List]

I’ve got a rule 😀.

 No boom boom on the boat

Renaissance
1975 38-2
On Tue, Apr 6, 2021 at 3:01 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>
> Note to self – keep old head.
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C&C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Neil Andersen via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, April 6, 2021 2:13 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe ; Neil Andersen <
> neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: From richard - now Airhead
>
>
>
> FYI.  As a broker, we are finding that composting head make a boat harder
> to sell.
>
>
>
> Neil Andersen
>
> S&J Yachts
>
> 443-321-1969
>
> sts involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal
> to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Mainsheet traveler systems C&C 35 Mk2

[Peter Kirkwood via CnC-List]

It was more about switching to the Harken windward sheeting car.  The
control lines to position the Lewmar car were in awkward location and often
got accidentally tripped - especially in a breeze-  the new car will make
it easier on my main trimmer   Nothing wrong with the Lewmar system other
than how it fit on the 38.

On Thu, Apr 1, 2021 at 11:46 AM Donald Kern via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> from C&C Sailboat Owners Group discussion- Mine is also off right now, a
> gross and fine tune Harkin sheeting system, but interestingly have still
> have the original Mk2 set up with movable pin stops and no traveler block
> and tackle. Use the secondary cockpit winch with a single line to the
> mainsheet car to adjust the boom position and a hard vang for twist in mod
> to heavy air - not efficient set up. Peter, why did you remove the Lewmar
> traveler system, since that is what I was contemplating putting on the boat
> this Spring? Don Kern *Fireball,* C&C35 Mk2 Bristol, RI
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: water tanks interconnected, or not?

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Thanks for the ideas. I used my dinghy foot pump to blow out the vent on
the port tank, which resulted in increased flow from that tank. I think I
need to replace the senders in both tanks to get accurate readings on tank
levels. Neighbor on the dock suggests a Tank Tender. Any suggestions?

Peter McMinn

 _/)



On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 6:32 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> This sounds likely – My usual fix for fixing the prime in the water pump
> in the spring was to bring a hose on board and blast water into the tank
> drain, up to the faucet – this would also blast over to the other tank, and
> likely blow out whatever crud was in the line. Then vacuum out that tank
> and clean.
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Something is preventing the free flow of water from one of the tanks.  It
> could be;
>
>  - a clog in the hose from the tank to the tee,
>
>  - maybe a valve, somewhere in that line that is closed,
>
>  - it could be the vent is plugged solid, creating a vacuum.  Which does
> not allow the water to flow.
>
>
>
> Given that there is very little head pressure to overcome the vacuum, it
> wouldn't necessarily take too much of a plug on either side to stop the
> water flow.
>
>
>
> Danny
>
> -- Original Message --
> From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
> To: "'Stus-List'" 
> Cc: Rick Brass 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: water tanks interconnected, or not?
> Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2021 23:37:40 -0400
>
> My 38 also has a tank under the port and starboard settees. Each of the
> tanks has a shutoff valve at the outlet. The two drain hoses meet at a T
> under the floorboards, and from this T is the line to the pressure pump.
>
>
>
> Curiously, there is also a shutoff valve on each side of the T. I could
> see no good purpose for the second shutoff in each supply line (unless it
> was there to stop all the water from leaking out through a broken line), so
> I left them in place when I replaced the hoses a while back.
>
>
>
> Maybe you have an arrangement like this one?
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Adam Hayden via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> *Sent:* Monday, March 22, 2021 7:14 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* petemcm...@gmail.com; Adam Hayden 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: water tanks interconnected, or not?
>
>
>
> Peter
>
> Very interesting.  I have the same issue except my port tank drains and
> the Starboard tank does not.
>
> Drives me crazy.
>
> Adam c&c 36
>
> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* Peter McMinn via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, March 22, 2021 3:55:08 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> *Cc:* petemcm...@gmail.com 
> *Subject:* Stus-List water tanks interconnected, or not?
>
>
>
> I have a 30gal water tank under both settees. The valves for each are set
> to open flow. However, the pump seems to draw only from the starboard side.
> I’d assumed that with both valves open, the tanks would equalize, but the
> stbd tank empties and the pump goes dry, while the port tank remains full.
> Can someone venture to what’s going on? I’ve read this 2015 discussion
> <https://cnc-list.com/empathy/thread/2KB2NSDGELMQQJSRMPPWPHVMCWQJ2ICR?hash=SLQZNGDWP5TUBYWW6HFGKHJT5DVCWB5F#SLQZNGDWP5TUBYWW6HFGKHJT5DVCWB5F>,
> but the OP then was interested in disconnecting the two tanks. I’ll do some
> exploring tomorrow to see what might be preventing the tanks from
> equalizing. Ideas are welcome.
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: water tanks interconnected, or not?

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Thanks for the replies. I looked under the floorboards today for a manifold or 
something regulating flow from/to either tank. Plumbing is all tight but only T 
connectors, no valve. I opened P/S tubes and both showed positive flow, though 
port side seemed slower. I then went to the port tank and and found a cracked 
tightener on the filler tube, which I sealed with rescue tape. Not sure that 
would be a factor in the issue. Joe, I do suspect a venting issue and will try 
to hunt that down tomorrow;)
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List water tanks interconnected, or not?

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

I have a 30gal water tank under both settees. The valves for each are set to 
open flow. However, the pump seems to draw only from the starboard side. I’d 
assumed that with both valves open, the tanks would equalize, but the stbd tank 
empties and the pump goes dry, while the port tank remains full. Can someone 
venture to what’s going on? I’ve read [this 2015 
discussion](https://cnc-list.com/empathy/thread/2KB2NSDGELMQQJSRMPPWPHVMCWQJ2ICR?hash=SLQZNGDWP5TUBYWW6HFGKHJT5DVCWB5F#SLQZNGDWP5TUBYWW6HFGKHJT5DVCWB5F),
 but the OP then was interested in disconnecting the two tanks. I’ll do some 
exploring tomorrow to see what might be preventing the tanks from equalizing. 
Ideas are welcome.
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Now stink boaters anonymous

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

My other boat is a Laser that I race year-round in a fleet with dudes well
into their 70s--please don't tell me going to the dark side is inevitable.

Peter McMinn

 _/)



On Sun, Mar 21, 2021 at 8:49 AM Graham Collins via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> geeze, am I the only one on this list who still owns a C&C  😁
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
> On 2021-03-21 12:39 p.m., T Sutton via CnC-List wrote:
> > Since this seems to be 'true confessions' week, I must confess that I
> > sold my C&C (33 Mk II) last summer and replaced it with a Saga 35.  A
> > major reason I could rationalize such a move is that Sagas were built
> > by the same craftsmen that built C&C's in the late 90's early 2000's
> > after all remnants of C&C were gone.  Although not a Rob Ball design
> > it is another reputable Rob, Perry in this case who designed them and
> > while not as racy as a C&C it is a little more comfortable and better
> > at motoring so hopefully I won't be tempted by a trawler when I get
> > even older.  For fun I also have a CL-14, Walker Bay 10 with a sail
> > kit and numerous windsurfers including a teak boomed original .
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Tom S
> >
> >
> >
> > I too sail a Force5 and has been parked way too long.
> >
> > Bill Dakin
> >
> >> On Mar 21, 2021, at 8:41 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List
> >>  wrote:
> >>
> >> Being a New Mysterian, sin is not something I worry much about, but
> >> here is my (lack of) confession.
> >> C&C 34+, Force 5, Sunfish, 2 windsurfers.
> >>
> > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
> > with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list
> > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the
> > list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your
> > support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: windlass battery under vee-berth

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Got the message—have decided to use the house bank and run 1/0 as low as low as 
I can up to the windlass. 

Thanks all.
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List windlass battery under vee-berth

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Hey all,

As I prepare to mount a new windlass on my ‘85 37, I intend to install a new 
AGM 12v on the centerline just aft of the holding tank. There is plenty of room 
here for a battery platform and accessibility is fair. I’ve done my homework on 
voltage drop, cable size, etc. but if you have specific experience on a 37 with 
a fwd-mounted battery, I’m mostly ears. 

My question relates to ventilation. The under-berth space is fairly large, but 
I know AGMs need to gas and I don’t want to create a hazard. Any suggestions 
for adding an adequate vent to this area?
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: midship cleats on aluminum rail?

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Dennis,
Good to know the soft shackle works well--just built a few for the purpose.
And good idea on the rubberized carabiner (Sirius topsides also painted).

Peter McMinn

 _/)



On Thu, Mar 11, 2021 at 10:01 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Richard,
>
> The coated carabiner I referenced states a rated load of 650 lbs.  The one
> I used to use was in that range.  Touche's slips in both Mandeville and
> Pensacola are well protected from wave action (except for the occasional
> party barge/powerboat idiot).
>
> I'd think that was adequate if your spring line has some stretch (i.e.
> three strand).
>
> I'm also thinking I can somehow slide some clear vinyl hose over my
> existing spring hook/carabiner to give it a protective cover.  Otherwise,
> I'll continue to use the soft shackle alone.
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Thu, Mar 11, 2021 at 11:42 AM Richard Bush  wrote:
>
>> Dennis; I like the Carabiner approach, however, I wonder what the loading
>> will do to these...do you experience much in the way of surges or wave
>> action which loads them up?
>> I understand that in a marina or a backwater slip where there might not
>> be much loading action, but I am on a river where we get constant wave
>> action from barges and big cruise types..and then there's the current which
>> runs at 4-6 knots in the springtime;
>> Thanks
>>
>>
>> Richard
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: midship cleats on aluminum rail?

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

The Johnson what I have.

On Wed., Mar. 10, 2021, 7:32 a.m. Kevin & Renee Hartig via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> https://www.anchorexpress.com/c-sherman-johnson-toe-rail-folding-cleat-48-510?_vsrefdom=googleads&msclkid=f08903d38ee91e1f6c72639b6b9219b6&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=**LP%20Shop%20-%20Johnson%20Pump&utm_term=4575755084497855&utm_content=71540%20%7C%20C.%20Sherman%20Johnson%20Toe%20Rail%20Folding%20Cleat%20-%2048-510%20%7C%20%2460.99
> Searched web and found c s johnson cleat for 63.00  at above address
>
> Kevin
> C& C 30 mkll
>
> On Wednesday, March 10, 2021, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> That is quite a handsome looking cleat.
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>>
>> Entrada, Erie, PA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Gary Newton via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 10, 2021 8:05 AM
>> *To:* Stus-List
>> *Cc:* Gary Newton
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: midship cleats on aluminum rail?
>>
>>
>>
>> https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=598
>>
>> This what I use attached behind the lower stays/shrouds on the Genoa track
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mar 10, 2021, at 2:27 AM, Peter McMinn via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> A question for those of us with aluminum toe rails. I’d like to find a
>> solution for midship cleating for docking/departing and springline
>> placement. I’m currently securing a line around a stanchion mount, which
>> seems strong, but I’d like to find a cleat that mounts to the toe rail.
>> Haven’t seen anything in the catalogs. I’m thinking a carabiner or even a
>> soft shackle through a rail hole might be a good fix. Given the general
>> opinion that midship cleating is handy, I’m curious what you use.
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>  Thanks - Stu
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: midship cleats on aluminum rail?

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Not on FB.

On Wed, Mar 10, 2021 at 10:41 AM Ted Drossos via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Here's a link to how I added a midship cleat.
> https://www.facebook.com/groups/206427463229026/permalink/298001127404992
>
> Ted Drossos
> C&C 110
> Lady in Red
> Bay Shore, NY
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Peter McMinn via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: petemcm...@gmail.com
> Sent: Wed, Mar 10, 2021 2:27 am
> Subject: Stus-List midship cleats on aluminum rail?
>
> A question for those of us with aluminum toe rails. I’d like to find a
> solution for midship cleating for docking/departing and springline
> placement. I’m currently securing a line around a stanchion mount, which
> seems strong, but I’d like to find a cleat that mounts to the toe rail.
> Haven’t seen anything in the catalogs. I’m thinking a carabiner or even a
> soft shackle through a rail hole might be a good fix. Given the general
> opinion that midship cleating is handy, I’m curious what you use.
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks -
> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Peter McMinn

 _/)
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Midship cleat

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

I neglected checking archived discussion on the subject. Others have noted
different options. It occurs to me a rail attached cleat attached could
pose a problem with snagging sheets, etc. Going to experiment with soft
shackle--easy to adjust and no wear on the metal.

On Wed, Mar 10, 2021 at 7:27 AM Adam Hayden via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I just attach a shackle to my toe rail.  Has worked great for spring
> lines.  Even in heavy weather.  My concern with tying  a line to a
> stanchion would be the additional force if the line rides up the stanchion.
>
>
> Adam
> C&C 36
> PICTOU NS
>
>
>
> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Peter McMinn

 _/)
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Do we have anyone near Rockland Maine?

[PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List]

Rockland is about 2 hours from me but I know people in Rockland that might be 
able to tell you about the boat if it is a racer

Contact me off list

Peter
C&c40
Portland me 



Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 10, 2021, at 7:05 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> We might be interested in a boat there.
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List midship cleats on aluminum rail?

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

A question for those of us with aluminum toe rails. I’d like to find a solution 
for midship cleating for docking/departing and springline placement. I’m 
currently securing a line around a stanchion mount, which seems strong, but I’d 
like to find a cleat that mounts to the toe rail. Haven’t seen anything in the 
catalogs. I’m thinking a carabiner or even a soft shackle through a rail hole 
might be a good fix. Given the general opinion that midship cleating is handy, 
I’m curious what you use.
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Asymmetical Spinnaker outside jibe

[Peter Kirkwood via CnC-List]

I’ve got two snap shackles on the bow for the genoas and with only one in
use at a time.   we tack the A kite there and do outside jibes.  Have for
reasons unknown, other than expediency on the race course, done inside jibe
which generally results in a trip to the sailmakers for a repair.

For long distance sailing with A kite we set the spinnaker pole at pulpit
height and fly it from there.

On Mon, Mar 8, 2021 at 10:41 AM Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> That won't be a problem...at least it wasn’t for me on my 40 and now on my
> Baltic 47, both of which have the kite tacked just aft of the headstay.
> If you do it right, that outside gybe is way easier than an inside gybe. I
> used to set, douse, and gybe the kite on my 40 singlehanded.
> Andy
>
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> 
> Newport, RI
> 
>
> USA
> 
>  02840
> 
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> On Mar 8, 2021, at 10:34, David Knecht via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> I have been thinking about ordering long sheets for my “reacher" (A sail)
> to be able to do outside jibes.  All the videos I have seen for this
> technique have the spinnaker tack on a sprit or attached forward of the
> headstay.  That seems pretty simple, but I don’t have an attachment point
> there.  My tack can either be attached directly to a padeye on the deck
> behind the forestay or to a strap around the furled headsail and then to
> the padeye.   I think that means that every time I jibe, the tack line will
> wrap around the headstay.  Is that a problem?   I could douse with the sock
> and redeploy after jibe (sounds slow for racing) or add an attachment
> point to the pulpit for a block so I am forward of the headstay.  Am I
> missing something?  How do others without sprits do this?  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
> 
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bilge pumps

[Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List]

It's a mystery so far but I know it's salt and I know it's coming from aft.
The yard said the dripless was fine but I'm thinking that's the culprit.

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Tue, Mar 2, 2021 at 10:41 AM, Matthew via CnC-List 
wrote:   Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu  
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bilge pumps

[Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List]

This is all very disturbing as I rely on a bilge with a float on shore power 
(or not) to keep water down in the bilge all the time.  It probably goes off 
every couple hours.  
Peter Cowenhoven1984 LandfallWestbrook, CT

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Mon, Mar 1, 2021 at 6:37 PM, cenelson via CnC-List 
wrote:   Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu  
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Deck painting

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Charlie,
Same question for me (37). The previous owner did wonderful prep and
taping, but coverage is thin. I’ll probably put on another coat of Kiwi.

On Thu, Feb 25, 2021 at 4:10 PM cenelson via CnC-List 
wrote:

> My deck is mostly covered with non-skid Kiwi-Grip which I had a applied by
> a local yard at least 5 years ago—likely more like 8-10–and it still is in
> great shape.
>
> OTOH, the non-non skid needs some serious work! However there is so little
> of it, it’s almost like ‘trim’ and taping it off would be time and money
> consuming if done by a yard.
>
> I am considering having it done by someone without taping all the non-skid
> off and using a high quality paint, single or 2 part paint and a brush.
>
> Is this likely to work for a decent 10 ft look or is it likely to be a
> disaster?
>
> Any recommendations on 1 or 2 part paints, manufacturers, etc.
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
>
>
>
>
> Sent from the all new Aol app for iOS
> <https://apps.apple.com/us/app/aol-news-email-weather-video/id646100661>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Peter McMinn

 _/)
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Atomic 4

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

There is also an Atomic 4 Facebook group.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/208227399713304/

Don't forget on Moyer's site there are free 'how-to' videos (
https://moyermarine.com/video_tech-tips/) and for sale videos (
https://moyermarine.com/product-category/videosdvds/), Tech Tips (
https://moyermarine.com/techtips/) FAQs (https://moyermarine.com/faq/),
etc. as resources.

And the best thing you can do is probably order their manual (
https://moyermarine.com/product-category/manuals/)
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 27 Website

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

There is one there from August. Someone on one of the C&C FB groups
provided a link:
https://web.archive.org/web/20210204013724/http://www.cc27association.com/

On Sat., Feb. 13, 2021, 5:48 p.m. Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The internet archives takes images of web sites periodically and may have
> a copy.  https://archive.org/web/  Stick the link there and see what they
> have.
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
>
>
> On Feb 13, 2021, at 4:29 PM, Stu via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> 
> There are other alternatives not yet mentioned.  I am discussing these
> with the association at this time.
>
> As for Facebook, YouTube, Twitter, etc.  it is a lot of maintenance to
> check and ensure these links are still active and are monitored properly.
> I have been involved with a couple of bad experiences with social media,
> and therefore stay away from them.  Sorry but searching FB for C&C forums
> is up to you --- not me.
>
> Remember too, if the 27 site is archived, somebody has to pay for the
> domain registration and hosting and also do some serious editing.
>
> I’ll keep you posted.
>
> Stay safe and healthy.
> Stu
>
>
> *From:* Peter Fell
> *Sent:* Saturday, February 13, 2021 7:11 PM
> *To:* Stus-List
> *Cc:* s...@snghost.com ; Richard Bush
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Re: C&C 27 Website
>
> I've suggested:
>
> 1. On the CNC Photoalbum website there is a link to the C&C27 website.
> Update that link to the location where the website gets archived.
> 2. Create a C&C 27 facebook page. In essence the FB page takes over for
> the forum on the 27 Association site. Note there is already a dedicated 27
> Mark V FB page  this new one could be one focusing on Marks I through
> IV. I've offered to help out as an Admin of a FB page.
> 3. BEFORE the 27 Association site is archived, it be edited to provide
> notice / links to the FB pages. So ... someone looking for 27 info may find
> the link to the static archived info and be directed to the I thru IV and V
> FB pages.
>
> Stu  perhaps right now the links under 'C&C Groups' could be updated
> to include the several existing FB pages? ... C&C Sailors,  C&C Sailboat
> Owners, C&C Sailboat Owners Group, C&C 27 Mark V Owners, C&C 110 Owners,
> C&C Mega 30 Owners  hmm ... quite a few aren't there!
>
> Peter
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 27 Website

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

I've suggested:

1. On the CNC Photoalbum website there is a link to the C&C27 website.
Update that link to the location where the website gets archived.
2. Create a C&C 27 facebook page. In essence the FB page takes over for the
forum on the 27 Association site. Note there is already a dedicated 27 Mark
V FB page  this new one could be one focusing on Marks I through IV.
I've offered to help out as an Admin of a FB page.
3. BEFORE the 27 Association site is archived, it be edited to provide
notice / links to the FB pages. So ... someone looking for 27 info may find
the link to the static archived info and be directed to the I thru IV and V
FB pages.

Stu  perhaps right now the links under 'C&C Groups' could be updated to
include the several existing FB pages? ... C&C Sailors,  C&C Sailboat
Owners, C&C Sailboat Owners Group, C&C 27 Mark V Owners, C&C 110 Owners,
C&C Mega 30 Owners  hmm ... quite a few aren't there!

Peter
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 27 Website

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Jim Wente, the C&C27 Association secretary just posted on one of the C&C FB
pages that a member was archiving the site and would try to keep it
available .

On Sat., Feb. 13, 2021, 2:18 p.m. Stu via CnC-List, 
wrote:

> I have information from a very good source, that the C&C27 website will be
> staying up for a while.
>
> The association is looking into ways and means to preserve the site. So
> just hang tight.
>
> Stay safe & healthy
> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu