Re: Stus-List Stereo finally works
Sounds like a fine solution. 1/1 review said the transducers are not reliable and gave a negative review. 2/7 worked for him. I would think the quality of the sound would be greatly influenced by the material it is mounted in. Fiberglass works well as a speaker cone? I wonder what the high end would be like. Bass would probably do well. And if anything else was mounted loosely it would add a bit of extra percussion at resonating frequencies. Seriously though this is an intriguing alternative. I'd like to hear how it goes. Ron On Sep 9, 2014, at 9:51 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: This is what I'm planning on doing for cockpit speakers: http://www.parts-express.com/tectonic-elements-teax32c30-4-b-32mm-balanced-exciter-4-ohms--297-224 No cutting fiberglass, no disintegrating cones. No waterproofing issues It drives the surface it's mounted on as a cone. Look it up in Youtube there's a guy whom installed them in his cockpit and it seems to work really well. Regards Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, Georgia ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Swapping coasts and Bops
Martin, Thanks for the very helpful information. I am now seriously considering moving the Bop to the PNW as an alternative to selling her for a whopping loss - (although if someone whispered a reasonable number to me for her the convenience of moving electronic funds vs a big old sailboat would be tempting). Alas she Bop will likely be transported when all is said and done. I will have some questions about doing that for you and the list as the day approaches. Very interesting to learn about the shallow areas there. We would love to cruise in the BC area. We will need to learn about anchoring over a rocky bottom. I've never done it. Ron On Aug 13, 2014, at 12:18 AM, Martin DeYoung mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com wrote: Out there I would prefer a fixed keel. Do many sailors have swing keel models in the PNW? I'm not in touch with how many centerboard boats there are in the PNW or how it would affect resale value. Hopefully Lee Youngblood (s/v Simplicity, 1974 CC 35-II, cnc-lister) will add his perspective as he is a PNW broker with CC experience. Lee lives aboard his 35 and has sailed/raced on Calypso with us a few times. There was a detailed discussion about centerboards here a few weeks back. Based on what I read about CC centerboard performance I don't believe you would have any significant performance loss in common PNW cruising conditions. If you plan to go far offshore (Mexico, So Pacific) or seriously race, a deeper keel may show an advantage Are there shallow bays where it would come in handy? Yes. For example; Roche Harbor and surrounding bays (San Juan Island), many areas and both marinas around Port Townsend have shallow spots, much of Puget Sound south of Gig Harbor, Liberty Bay (Poulsbo), the Swinomish Slough (between LaConner and Anacortes). With 12'+ tides many smaller marinas have slips that would favor a centerboard over Calypso's 76 draft. As you go north to the awesome cruising ground of BC there are places where only a shallow draft boat can enter. One bay in Desolation Sound has a shallow entrance and must be entered at high tide. The shallow entrance keeps the sun warmed water in creating a anchorage warm enough to swim. I would not take Calypso in but I did get a CC 36 in there by leading in with a dinghy and lead line. Can you approximate the slip fee for a 35-38 in Puget Sound? We might end up in or around Edmonds. I don't follow the moorage costs outside of Shilshole Bay Marina (kept a boat there since 84) but here is my SWAG: salt water close to Seattle $400 to $500/mo, Edmonds/Everett a little less (check for the wait list in Edmonds), Anacortes +-$350/mo. A note on Edmonds. It is a great location for sailing and a nice little community, but it is in the weather convergence zone. Closer to Seattle or north of Marysville will average less rainy days per year. For moorage also check out Anacortes for how close it is to the San Juan Islands. Please let me know if you have any difficulty in digging up PNW sailing info. Martin Calypso 1971 CC 43 Seattle image003.jpg From: Ron Kaye [mailto:ronkaye...@gmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2014 12:34 PM To: Martin DeYoung Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Swapping coasts and Bops Out there I would prefer a fixed keel. Don't most sailors? I consider a swing keel to be an East Coast necessity. Do many sailors have swing keel models in the PNW? As we know, that blade is heavy and takes some effort to manage. It's worth it to be able to traverse so much of the Chesapeake that would be too shallow otherwise. (And to keep the boat in 5' of water). In the PNW I would think we'd just leave it down permanently and it would eventually get stuck like that if we didn't make a point of raising and lowering. Are there shallow bays where it would come in handy? But you do have a good point and perhaps we will ultimately do exactly that. We will see what kind of offers we get. However I'm hoping the difference between 6 and (6+x) might be workable (depending on the value of x) if we can end up with a boat that is better suited for that area. Additionally in the equation: Admiral Bop is keen on moving up three feet (or more), and we have friends there who expressed interest in co-owning a sailboat when we get there - which might make that three feet more important as well as affordable. And because we will be downsizing the house, upsizing the Bop has a certain balance aspect in the larger sense -which almost makes sense. Can you approximate the slip fee for a 35-38 in Puget Sound? We might end up in or around Edmonds. Ron On Aug 12, 2014, at 1:56 PM, Martin DeYoung mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com wrote: Ron and Lisa, First off it is rarely clammy in winter, just cold and wet. In summer we do get a few days of hot and clammy (like yesterday
Stus-List Swapping coasts and Bops
After returning from a family trip to the State where I was born, Washington, and spending time touring the area including a brief stay at Friday Harbor, the family decided that they would like to move there. Yes, we know the winter is dreary, wet, and clammy there. But come what may, we are heading in that direction hopefully in the next year, and the plan includes the acquisition of perhaps a LF 38 or something along those lines once we do. But first things first. Due to this unexpected change of plans and coasts, we will (sadly) need to sell our Mr. Bop (go ahead and rename her if you must). She is a 1986 35iii, centerboard currently in a slip in Edgewater, MD. She is in very good shape and proved to provide us with minimal issues. We purchased the Bop in October of 2012 for 40K. She has a 2002 30GMF that runs great. In the brief time we have owned her we had her hull blasted and a new barrier coat applied. That was the big expensive job. Other improvements include a new water heater, two brand new AGM batteries and smart charger (Oct 2013), a west marine 10' RIB ding with a 5 hp Lehr propane outboard (negotiably included or sold separately). The propane engine has been great, though used lightly. We know we won't get the 40 + 9K back when we sell - but would will consider a reasonable offer. I havent listed her anywhere yet - you folks are the only ones who know. If you would like more info/go for a sail, please contact us directly. Ron Lisa ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Swapping coasts and Bops
Out there I would prefer a fixed keel. Don't most sailors? I consider a swing keel to be an East Coast necessity. Do many sailors have swing keel models in the PNW? As we know, that blade is heavy and takes some effort to manage. It's worth it to be able to traverse so much of the Chesapeake that would be too shallow otherwise. (And to keep the boat in 5' of water). In the PNW I would think we'd just leave it down permanently and it would eventually get stuck like that if we didn't make a point of raising and lowering. Are there shallow bays where it would come in handy? But you do have a good point and perhaps we will ultimately do exactly that. We will see what kind of offers we get. However I'm hoping the difference between 6 and (6+x) might be workable (depending on the value of x) if we can end up with a boat that is better suited for that area. Additionally in the equation: Admiral Bop is keen on moving up three feet (or more), and we have friends there who expressed interest in co-owning a sailboat when we get there - which might make that three feet more important as well as affordable. And because we will be downsizing the house, upsizing the Bop has a certain balance aspect in the larger sense -which almost makes sense. Can you approximate the slip fee for a 35-38 in Puget Sound? We might end up in or around Edmonds. Ron On Aug 12, 2014, at 1:56 PM, Martin DeYoung mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com wrote: Ron and Lisa, First off it is rarely clammy in winter, just cold and wet. In summer we do get a few days of hot and clammy (like yesterday) but mostly the late spring through mid-fall has comfortable PNW cruising weather. Regarding your boat change plans; have you considered trucking your nice 35MKIII to the PNW? It is possible the +-$6K spent on the truck and commissioning costs would be a better value than taking the loss on selling. Your equipment list holds up well for PNW 3 season cruising. Once you use the boat in the PNW waters your vision of what features will be important on the next boat will become more focused. There is an active CC community here so if you have any questions regarding moorage locations from Portland OR (to the south) to Vancouver Island (to the north) I bet there is a lister with local knowledge. Martin Calypso 1971 CC 43 Seattle image001.png From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron Kaye via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2014 10:36 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Swapping coasts and Bops After returning from a family trip to the State where I was born, Washington, and spending time touring the area including a brief stay at Friday Harbor, the family decided that they would like to move there. Yes, we know the winter is dreary, wet, and clammy there. But come what may, we are heading in that direction hopefully in the next year, and the plan includes the acquisition of perhaps a LF 38 or something along those lines once we do. But first things first. Due to this unexpected change of plans and coasts, we will (sadly) need to sell our Mr. Bop (go ahead and rename her if you must). She is a 1986 35iii, centerboard currently in a slip in Edgewater, MD. She is in very good shape and proved to provide us with minimal issues. We purchased the Bop in October of 2012 for 40K. She has a 2002 30GMF that runs great. In the brief time we have owned her we had her hull blasted and a new barrier coat applied. That was the big expensive job. Other improvements include a new water heater, two brand new AGM batteries and smart charger (Oct 2013), a west marine 10' RIB ding with a 5 hp Lehr propane outboard (negotiably included or sold separately). The propane engine has been great, though used lightly. We know we won't get the 40 + 9K back when we sell - but would will consider a reasonable offer. I havent listed her anywhere yet - you folks are the only ones who know. If you would like more info/go for a sail, please contact us directly. Ron Lisa ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List 1967 CC 41' Yawl?
If this was discussed I somehow missed it. 1967 CC Yawl for 35k. Looks beautiful but they seem to be having difficulty selling. What's wrong with this picture? http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/category/type/CC/41+Yawl Ron ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List getting seasick
I'm somewhat prone to seasickness. I found through personal experience when I was much younger the following three precautions that I try my best to follow: 1. Get enough sleep the night before boating. Being sleepy is similar to dizziness (at least for me) and sleepiness can make seasickness (unless it is caused by Bonine) more likely (unless you can just sleep) 2. Don't be hung-over. Same as sleepiness but with nausea added. Starting out like that is a bad move. 3. Eat a decent breakfast. Low blood sugar and/or a stomach full of junk (candy bars, Fritos, donuts) can cause dizziness and nausea which the gentle motion of the sea will push squarely into the red zone. I've tried ginger in various forms and am not quite convinced of its effectiveness. Never heard of Stugeron but am now interested in trying it. I see online that the active ingredient is an antihistamine: Cinnarzine. How is the drowsiness compared to that of Bonine (meclizine)? I see that the brain has a vomit center. The trick is to prevent signals originating in the inner ear from reaching the VC. Apparently antihistamines are able to do this. And, it seems, they always make you more or less sleepy. Ron On Jun 23, 2014, at 3:06 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: The couple of times I’ve been sick, the Stugeron worked well — even AFTER the onset of symptoms. Your mileage may vary; and know that it’s NOT approved for use in the U.S. But widely available in most of the rest of the world. And online via canadianpharmacyonline.com… As a disclaimer, I’m not a physician (although the Admiral is). I’m not advocating this for everyone. I’m just passing on personal experience… check with your doctor before dosing yourself with anything. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI On Jun 23, 2014, at 1:49 PM, Indigo via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I am soon to depart for Bermuda to help bring a J/133 home. I can be prone to seasickness especially if I am down below trying to navigate / read etc in poor conditions. I had heard before about the three day ahead dosing trick so will be taking Stugeron from Thursday onwards. Unfortunately Stugeron is not available in the States (I get mine brought over from the UK) -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Boat names Why bother ?
Of all the boat-naming rationale I've heard I like yours the most. Another dead song that I've always thought would make a fine name for a boat: Ripple - but that's almost too easy. Back in the 80s I used to play Love and Rockets and saw them live a couple of times. My wife at the time and I named our first sailboat: Kundalini Express My subsequent wife and I named the next: Nautisaurus. Not from any song title - just water lizard love that name. The new owner kept the name and really likes it. The current boat 35/3 we named Mr. Bop is the title of a unique poem written by a very good and very bohemian starving artist friend of ours who now lives in Bulgaria. He was quite a dead head himself as was his father. The previous name Small Favors just didn't hit the right nerve. On Sat, Mar 22, 2014 at 2:39 AM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: Yeah. In Spanish, Stella Blue translates to Estela Azul which means Blue Wake, as in the wake behind a boat. At least ten Mexicans have told me that, and everybody seems to think it's really cool and that I'm really smart to make such a subtle play on words. Right. I actually picked the name after I had an inspirational vision during a Grateful Dead show, while they were playing the song, and decided get a boat, name it Stella Blue, and go sailing. Later I learned that the song was written about Thorazine, which was a drug given to institutionalized psychiatric patients, but in the 1960's was also recreationally abused. And folks wonder why I think everything is funny... Wal ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Ron ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Boat names
Repositioner Repositionaire Ron On Mar 18, 2014, at 11:03 AM, Dennis C. capt...@gmail.com wrote: L'attitude Adjustment Dennis C. On Tue, Mar 18, 2014 at 9:48 AM, M Bod drbod...@accesswave.ca wrote: I've been saving several of the messages on how to remove old boat names. Planning on re-naming my CS30 this spring. Current name is Sea Fever - which is not bad, but does not speak to me personally. But I'm still not totally committed that I have the right need name. Like Steven I have had a running list of names that piqued my interest. I'm hoping to find something short, meaningful, unique and a bit witty. Love some of the names I see from this list (Oxygen, The Office, etc) - but I don't want to steal a unique name. My current favourite is Cracked - I am a chiropractor after all, plus I've been told multiple times that my views on the world can be twisted. Also relates back to the fact I was (and maybe still am a bit) concerned about the small cracks in the bilge ribs. Other front runners - 42 (The meaning of life, the universe, and everything - maybe too obscure) - Vita Brevis (Life is Short in Latin) - Therapy - Exit Strategy I could also use Bigger Picture (after my current Big Picture Mirage 24) I was tempted to go with 'Handbasket' - as in 'Where are we going. And how are we going to get there' - but don't want the negative implications it carries. Any brilliant and witty thoughts (or critiques) welcome Mark ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain
Has anyone put a hinged gate in the stern rail so that one can clamber up the swim ladder and not have to climb over the rail? I'm thinking this might make the stern rail too weak when the gate is open. Has this been discussed? Anybody bothered by this? -- Ron Lisa 35-3 Mr. Bop ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List [SPAM]Re: Climing over the stern rail is a pain
Yes that IS encouraging. Sounds like a plan. Ron On Feb 5, 2014, at 3:55 PM, John Russo johnrussob...@optonline.net wrote: Thanks, That is encouraging! John From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fair, Mike Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2014 3:20 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: [SPAM]Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain I have 1 inch rails, double except at the ladder where it is single. I sometimes keep a 85 lb outboard clamped next to it and I have a radar pole outboard to the motor with no issues. Thanks, Mike Fair From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Russo Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2014 2:34 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain I have a 32 with a double rail at the stern and am thinking about cutting the upper and adding a gate. My swim ladder actually comes slightly above the lower rail when up where it tie it. My concern is that I have a motor mount and a 65 Lb outboard on the stern rail port side vertical post which I will have to shift more to port but wondered about the rail strength after cutting. Any thoughts? I am also looking for a lighter outboard with a little less HP. John Arpeggio 32 Norwalk CT From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2014 1:35 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain My stern rail has a lower rail and a gate instead of an upper rail. Yes, its a pain! I wonder how much you would weaken the rail if it were split with two gates too. However, I only use the ladder when the boat is on the hard. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 1:23 PM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com wrote: I've seen people add lifeline gates. It involves having the pulpit modified of course (middle section removed). Yeah, it's a pain climbing over the rail. I always instruct my guests to grab a hold of the backstay to steady themselves. (split backstay) Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 1:18 PM, Ron Kaye ronkaye...@gmail.com wrote: Has anyone put a hinged gate in the stern rail so that one can clamber up the swim ladder and not have to climb over the rail? I'm thinking this might make the stern rail too weak when the gate is open. Has this been discussed? Anybody bothered by this? -- Ron Lisa 35-3 Mr. Bop ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain
I see there are good ways to ease sternal ingress. As long as the outboard is
well supported it can only improve the sailing experience.
But in all seriousness I'm surprised that ease of sternal ingress isn't
regarded as an important safety consideration for MOB scenarios. Dragging an
exhausted/chilled crew back in the boat- Isn't lifting them over the top rail a
bit of a nuisance? I'm surprised it isn't more common. Or even mandated.
Ron
On Feb 5, 2014, at 9:20 PM, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote:
{infrequent sternal ingress}
You Floridians will do anything for a giggle.
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 5 February 2014 18:03, bobmor99 . bobmo...@gmail.com wrote:
Ox, a 33-1, has a single rail at the stern. The infrequent sternal ingress
is made below the rail. It gets less easy with age and increasing body mass.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL
On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 1:18 PM, Ron Kaye ronkaye...@gmail.com wrote:
Has anyone put a hinged gate in the stern rail so that one can clamber up
the swim ladder and not have to climb over the rail?
I'm thinking this might make the stern rail too weak when the gate is open.
Has this been discussed? Anybody bothered by this?
--
Ron Lisa
35-3
Mr. Bop
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Re: Stus-List Cutlass bearing removal tool
Hi Joel, If and when you get this and decide to proceed I would like if possible to assist and observe. Not sure what I can do exactly but fetching a hot latte from Starbucks is a start. If it works out just let me know time and coordinates. I'm about 75 minutes away and I'll cut and run if I can. Ron of the People's Republic of Ron and Lisa Mr Bop 35/3 On Dec 13, 2013, at 9:54 AM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: For 50 I would buy it. The one I saw was 400! Can you point me in the right direction? On Friday, December 13, 2013, Josh Muckley wrote: Nope, but if you end up buying one... I remember seeing one where you didn't have to remove the shaft. I think it ran about $50. Josh On Dec 13, 2013 8:28 AM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: All, Does anyone in the Annapolis area have a cutlass bearing removal tool for a 1 inch shaft that I could borrow? Thanks! Joel 35/3 The Office Annapolis -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List NOW SOLAR VENTS AGAIN
Our main hatch- mounted solar vent seems to be solar only and runs great when the sun is on it. I don't know how old it is but its not new and am not sure what make it is. Problem is it drips with any rain or spray. Maybe a drip or two per minute. Even when in the slip. I can't tell where the leak is coming from exactly other than the vent - somewhere. IDK if the water is coming through the vent or around the seam where it is mounted. Is it worth remounting or should I replace it with something newer? Do others see this problem? Ron 35/3 On Oct 24, 2013, at 10:31 AM, Bill Bina billb...@sbcglobal.net wrote: I have an older Nicro that works just fine, except it never had a battery. I almost bought a new unit with a battery, but found a lot of negative opinions about the new model not lasting very long. My old one is at least 15 years old and still works great when the sun is out. With a deck stepped mast and an outboard auxiliary, I don't have humidity issues. My biggest problem is usually dust bunnies in the bilge. :-) The fresh air is nice to keep things from getting stale when the boat is closed up, though. Bill Bina On 10/24/2013 9:39 AM, Alex Giannelia wrote: Rick The answer to your question is a bit more than a yes/no I imagine that the one on my main hatch only needs a battery to make it work. It has a feature which lets me pull it out and replace with a 3” cap if for example I am racing. My question is if this feature is standard on the current generation of NICRO products because the second one I bought (on Ebay) can only get screwed in permanently. Alex Giannelia CC 35-II 1974 to be renamed after re-launch TORONTO, Ontario ag@@airsensing.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Booze on Board?
After the anchor is set or the dock lines tied... Scotch; the older and more singular malt the better. Mixes well with Pellegrino sparkling water. Use in moderation or you'll go broke buying the stuff and have to sell yer boat. Ron On Oct 17, 2013, at 2:24 PM, Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com wrote: O.k, I'm trying to stock the East Coast lady with a good assortment of beverage. I would like to here from the readers out there what they keep on board for them self's and for the guest? Rum Wine champaine ? Thanks for your list in advance. Capt. Curt -- “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Standing height in C C 40 1979
At 6' 2.5 I can stand in our '86 35/3 main cabin though I have to consciously force myself to stand completely up. If I'm wearing a hat and go into the V berth I usually bang my head on the top part of the door frame. Being pretty high can be dangerous. Ron On Oct 4, 2013, at 11:08 AM, cenel...@aol.com wrote: My 1995 36 XL also has standing headroom for 6' 2 within the main and forward cabins at least. Charlie Nelson cenel...@aol.com -Original Message- From: Hoyt, Mike mike.h...@impgroup.com To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Fri, Oct 4, 2013 10:05 am Subject: Re: Stus-List Standing height in C C 40 1979 My father at 6'3 bought a CC36 in 1981 because it had standing headroom for him That may not be well over 6 feet but is certainly a great amount of headroom on a boat From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G Street Sent: Friday, October 04, 2013 10:57 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Standing height in C C 40 1979 Anders -- if you're well over six feet (180cm) tall, about the only boat CC built that will have enough headroom for you is the Landfall 39. Is there a CC40 in or near Denmark that you're looking at purchasing? Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI On Oct 4, 2013, at 7:42 AM, and...@medisoft.dk wrote: LOL - Ok guys - I'm tall :-) /Anders djhaug...@juno.com skrev den 04.10.2013 14:04: OMG that brought back some memories!!! LMAO -- Original Message -- From: Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Standing height in C C 40 1979 Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2013 01:24:48 + Anders, maybe you should lay down and munch on some chocolate chip cookies and milk. Anders Brandt wrote: Does anybody know what the standing height in the salon near the stove is in a C C 40 1979 ? I'm pretty high, so it matters a little:-) ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Snatch Block Puzzle
Following advice of several sages on this list and thank you, we got an aspin with ATN sleeve. I also got the ratcheted snatch block that ATN sells to help with the dousing process. So we are stringing this all up and got stuck on a detail. How to get the snatch block integrated with the dousing line that runs up the sleeve? That line is a continuous loop and whipped nicely where it attaches to the lines on the collar. I don't really think the idea is to cut those nice knots? The block is Harken and appears to be constructed such that disassembling would require special tools. Is there an easy way out of this? Thanks Ron Lisa 35/3 To be renamed. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Snatch Block Puzzle
Thanks. This is the one sold by ATN. I've got a call into them. It really looks like it doesn't come apart. Ron On Sep 14, 2013, at 1:39 PM, Indigo ind...@thethomsons.us wrote: Ron If you truly have a snatch block you should be able to find a way to open it and put the line round the sheave without cutting the line. My new Garhauer snatch block has a plunger that you pull and then one cheek swivels to expose the sheave. My old no name snatch blocks have a spring loaded clasp that can be opened to expose the sheave. I am not familiar with Harken's design -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT On Sep 14, 2013, at 12:50, Ron Kaye ronkaye...@gmail.com wrote: Following advice of several sages on this list and thank you, we got an aspin with ATN sleeve. I also got the ratcheted snatch block that ATN sells to help with the dousing process. So we are stringing this all up and got stuck on a detail. How to get the snatch block integrated with the dousing line that runs up the sleeve? That line is a continuous loop and whipped nicely where it attaches to the lines on the collar. I don't really think the idea is to cut those nice knots? The block is Harken and appears to be constructed such that disassembling would require special tools. Is there an easy way out of this? Thanks Ron Lisa 35/3 To be renamed. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Snatch Block Puzzle
Yeah that isn't the way the sleeve is set up. It is a new sail from Bacon that they had made and it comes with the ATN sleeve. That sleeve is tied together permanently. I just need to cut that knot and retie it with a bowline. I think Bacon goofed getting the sleeve set up this way. Thanks. Ron On Sep 14, 2013, at 2:18 PM, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote: The block that ATN sells is just a ratchet block with a snap shackle, so you can't open it. According to their website picture you should be able to undo a knot and pass it through... http://www.atninc.com/images/products/snap-ratchet2.jpg On 14 September 2013 10:38, Indigo ind...@thethomsons.us wrote: Ron If you truly have a snatch block you should be able to find a way to open it and put the line round the sheave without cutting the line. My new Garhauer snatch block has a plunger that you pull and then one cheek swivels to expose the sheave. My old no name snatch blocks have a spring loaded clasp that can be opened to expose the sheave. I am not familiar with Harken's design -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT On Sep 14, 2013, at 12:50, Ron Kaye ronkaye...@gmail.com wrote: Following advice of several sages on this list and thank you, we got an aspin with ATN sleeve. I also got the ratcheted snatch block that ATN sells to help with the dousing process. So we are stringing this all up and got stuck on a detail. How to get the snatch block integrated with the dousing line that runs up the sleeve? That line is a continuous loop and whipped nicely where it attaches to the lines on the collar. I don't really think the idea is to cut those nice knots? The block is Harken and appears to be constructed such that disassembling would require special tools. Is there an easy way out of this? Thanks Ron Lisa 35/3 To be renamed. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Newbie problems with an older autopilot
We are approaching our 1 year anniversary with our 35-3. We have finally got her back in the water after a new bottom job with soda blasting and base coat etc, and then replacing essential fluids, fixing running lights and a new head etc. and have been learning her ways and starting to enjoy her company very muchl. Last weekend we sailed from our home port in the Rhode R. to St. Michaels for a two-day trip which was great - with one notable exception and even broke 6 knots under sail a time or two in moderate wind. On the return trip the Raymarine Autohelm 4000 (PO- used this for years) decided to freak out and wanted to turn the boat in hard circles to starboard. We couldn't get it to snap out of it - pushed the Standby and Auto buttons repeatedly, held them in for longer periods, turned the unit off and back on, unplugged it - essentially everything short of percussive maintenance - which might actually have been a good idea. I cant find anything in the user manual that covers this issue unless some internal mode got somehow switched. I'm wondering if this scanario sounds familiar with anyone and hoping there might be a Doh! fix. We know the unit is old and pretty basic by current standards. There was an upgrade kit by Raymarine that used the same drive hardware with a next generation control head (at4000 model I think it was) but even that system is now older and the kit has been discontinued by Raymarine. Is there some kind of work-around if it comes to that where a new controller can interface with the existing drive motor? Is there any inexpensive way out of this? If the system really should just be completely replaced we'll do that but hopefully we can avoid that. Thanks for any help with this. -- Ron Lisa To be Renamed 1986 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List A question regarding a sail
Thanks for all the great info on the 4000 Autohelm. I'm thinking it might be a magnetic disturbance of the compass and I think I might have stowed a head-mounted flashlight in the chart table. Maybe... I hope that's it. We shall see this weekend when we get back for another trip. As for the sail, the boat came with a tri-radial spinnaker. The real deal. I think the PPO may have been into racing but the PO and the CO's are not. The PO said he'd never raised the thing in 12 years. At this point, Lisa and I don't want to wrestle with a full on spinnaker if the wind pipes up and we have to get it under control in a hurry since it will usually be the two of us or the two of us and if there are others they won't know anything about sailing. So... a crusising spinnaker I believe is what we need. I'd like to get a used one and will check Bacon in Annapolis. If anyone would like to trade sails, I'd give up the tri-radial spinnaker for a asymmetrical of appropriate size. Its solid red. 3 oz, and seems to be well made amd in very good condition from what I've seen of it but I admit we haven't pulled the whole thing out of the bag. Its a Doyle sail. We are near Annapolis. As far as connecting it, we have a typical roller furler on for the genoa and a custom anchor roller sprit with a nice large piece of stainless that I could drill into to connect the tack with a few feet of line to allow it to rise up a bit to see under. Is that about right? From what I've heard, Bacon has the info to size the sail appropriately for make and model of boat but I'd like to hear any opinions from the list as well. Thanks again. Sorry to be a pests with all these questions. -- Ron Lisa '86 35/3 To be Renamed ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Newbie problems with an older autopilot
Ah good to know! I don't know what the fluxgate compass even looks like but it will be found and scrutinized Friday night. We have one of those deep-cycle utility batteries with jumper cables, AC and cigaretty lighter type outlets on it. We keep that down at the bottom of the hanging locker. That might be the culprit. On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 2:54 PM, Tim Goodyear timg...@gmail.com wrote: Ron, just some background, the fluxgate compass on my 35-3 is in the hanging locker opposite the head. Nothing too much to worry about there for interference - but now that I think about it, I shall be careful of using the autopilot while charging the handheld VHF on the shelf above... Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 11:14 AM, Ron Kaye ronkaye...@gmail.com wrote: We are approaching our 1 year anniversary with our 35-3. We have finally got her back in the water after a new bottom job with soda blasting and base coat etc, and then replacing essential fluids, fixing running lights and a new head etc. and have been learning her ways and starting to enjoy her company very muchl. Last weekend we sailed from our home port in the Rhode R. to St. Michaels for a two-day trip which was great - with one notable exception and even broke 6 knots under sail a time or two in moderate wind. On the return trip the Raymarine Autohelm 4000 (PO- used this for years) decided to freak out and wanted to turn the boat in hard circles to starboard. We couldn't get it to snap out of it - pushed the Standby and Auto buttons repeatedly, held them in for longer periods, turned the unit off and back on, unplugged it - essentially everything short of percussive maintenance - which might actually have been a good idea. I cant find anything in the user manual that covers this issue unless some internal mode got somehow switched. I'm wondering if this scanario sounds familiar with anyone and hoping there might be a Doh! fix. We know the unit is old and pretty basic by current standards. There was an upgrade kit by Raymarine that used the same drive hardware with a next generation control head (at4000 model I think it was) but even that system is now older and the kit has been discontinued by Raymarine. Is there some kind of work-around if it comes to that where a new controller can interface with the existing drive motor? Is there any inexpensive way out of this? If the system really should just be completely replaced we'll do that but hopefully we can avoid that. Thanks for any help with this. -- Ron Lisa To be Renamed 1986 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Ron ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List A question regarding a sail
I'm sure 3/4 oz. is right. I misremembered that detail. On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 2:57 PM, Dennis C. capt...@yahoo.com wrote: Ron, You're not a pest. Questions are why this list exists and flourishes. In addition to Stu's diligence. However, I suspect your spinnaker is not a 3 oz chute. 3/4 oz perhaps? Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA -- *From:* Ron Kaye ronkaye...@gmail.com *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent:* Wednesday, August 28, 2013 1:36 PM *Subject:* Stus-List A question regarding a sail Thanks for all the great info on the 4000 Autohelm. I'm thinking it might be a magnetic disturbance of the compass and I think I might have stowed a head-mounted flashlight in the chart table. Maybe... I hope that's it. We shall see this weekend when we get back for another trip. As for the sail, the boat came with a tri-radial spinnaker. The real deal. I think the PPO may have been into racing but the PO and the CO's are not. The PO said he'd never raised the thing in 12 years. At this point, Lisa and I don't want to wrestle with a full on spinnaker if the wind pipes up and we have to get it under control in a hurry since it will usually be the two of us or the two of us and if there are others they won't know anything about sailing. So... a crusising spinnaker I believe is what we need. I'd like to get a used one and will check Bacon in Annapolis. If anyone would like to trade sails, I'd give up the tri-radial spinnaker for a asymmetrical of appropriate size. Its solid red. 3 oz, and seems to be well made amd in very good condition from what I've seen of it but I admit we haven't pulled the whole thing out of the bag. Its a Doyle sail. We are near Annapolis. As far as connecting it, we have a typical roller furler on for the genoa and a custom anchor roller sprit with a nice large piece of stainless that I could drill into to connect the tack with a few feet of line to allow it to rise up a bit to see under. Is that about right? From what I've heard, Bacon has the info to size the sail appropriately for make and model of boat but I'd like to hear any opinions from the list as well. Thanks again. Sorry to be a pests with all these questions. -- Ron Lisa '86 35/3 To be Renamed ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Ron ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List A question regarding a sail
Joel, I hate to ask such a personal question, but what size is yours? On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 2:59 PM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.comwrote: Ron, Lisa, Glad you are getting to enjoy the boat! I have her twin on South River, and there is another in Selby as well. Double check the weight of the chute. They are usually .5 or .75 ounce. My heavy chute is 1.5. There are lots of used symmetrical chutes out there. Asyms are harder to find. Try L-36.com and click on used sail finder. It will check inventory of all the major sail suppliers. I found mine on Craigslist. Hope to see you on the Bay! Joel 35/3 The Office Annapolis On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 2:36 PM, Ron Kaye ronkaye...@gmail.com wrote: Thanks for all the great info on the 4000 Autohelm. I'm thinking it might be a magnetic disturbance of the compass and I think I might have stowed a head-mounted flashlight in the chart table. Maybe... I hope that's it. We shall see this weekend when we get back for another trip. As for the sail, the boat came with a tri-radial spinnaker. The real deal. I think the PPO may have been into racing but the PO and the CO's are not. The PO said he'd never raised the thing in 12 years. At this point, Lisa and I don't want to wrestle with a full on spinnaker if the wind pipes up and we have to get it under control in a hurry since it will usually be the two of us or the two of us and if there are others they won't know anything about sailing. So... a crusising spinnaker I believe is what we need. I'd like to get a used one and will check Bacon in Annapolis. If anyone would like to trade sails, I'd give up the tri-radial spinnaker for a asymmetrical of appropriate size. Its solid red. 3 oz, and seems to be well made amd in very good condition from what I've seen of it but I admit we haven't pulled the whole thing out of the bag. Its a Doyle sail. We are near Annapolis. As far as connecting it, we have a typical roller furler on for the genoa and a custom anchor roller sprit with a nice large piece of stainless that I could drill into to connect the tack with a few feet of line to allow it to rise up a bit to see under. Is that about right? From what I've heard, Bacon has the info to size the sail appropriately for make and model of boat but I'd like to hear any opinions from the list as well. Thanks again. Sorry to be a pests with all these questions. -- Ron Lisa '86 35/3 To be Renamed ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Ron ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List A question regarding a sail
That's an impressive piece of equipment Joel. Thanks for letting me know. (That's what she said har). Thanks. The symmetrical spin is the only extra sail we have. On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 3:12 PM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.comwrote: Ron, I hate to brag ... Luff is 44, leach is 39, foot is 28’2”. It came off a Tartan 34. Its cool flying it wing and wing in light air! If you have any other racing sails you don't need, let me know! Joel 35/3 The Office Annapolis On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 3:07 PM, Ron Kaye ronkaye...@gmail.com wrote: Joel, I hate to ask such a personal question, but what size is yours? On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 2:59 PM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.comwrote: Ron, Lisa, Glad you are getting to enjoy the boat! I have her twin on South River, and there is another in Selby as well. Double check the weight of the chute. They are usually .5 or .75 ounce. My heavy chute is 1.5. There are lots of used symmetrical chutes out there. Asyms are harder to find. Try L-36.com and click on used sail finder. It will check inventory of all the major sail suppliers. I found mine on Craigslist. Hope to see you on the Bay! Joel 35/3 The Office Annapolis On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 2:36 PM, Ron Kaye ronkaye...@gmail.com wrote: Thanks for all the great info on the 4000 Autohelm. I'm thinking it might be a magnetic disturbance of the compass and I think I might have stowed a head-mounted flashlight in the chart table. Maybe... I hope that's it. We shall see this weekend when we get back for another trip. As for the sail, the boat came with a tri-radial spinnaker. The real deal. I think the PPO may have been into racing but the PO and the CO's are not. The PO said he'd never raised the thing in 12 years. At this point, Lisa and I don't want to wrestle with a full on spinnaker if the wind pipes up and we have to get it under control in a hurry since it will usually be the two of us or the two of us and if there are others they won't know anything about sailing. So... a crusising spinnaker I believe is what we need. I'd like to get a used one and will check Bacon in Annapolis. If anyone would like to trade sails, I'd give up the tri-radial spinnaker for a asymmetrical of appropriate size. Its solid red. 3 oz, and seems to be well made amd in very good condition from what I've seen of it but I admit we haven't pulled the whole thing out of the bag. Its a Doyle sail. We are near Annapolis. As far as connecting it, we have a typical roller furler on for the genoa and a custom anchor roller sprit with a nice large piece of stainless that I could drill into to connect the tack with a few feet of line to allow it to rise up a bit to see under. Is that about right? From what I've heard, Bacon has the info to size the sail appropriately for make and model of boat but I'd like to hear any opinions from the list as well. Thanks again. Sorry to be a pests with all these questions. -- Ron Lisa '86 35/3 To be Renamed ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Ron ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Ron ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List A question regarding a sail
It seems we are in the market for an ATN sock and a tacker in the near term and perhaps a lighter weight assym chute next season. Thanks all. On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 3:27 PM, Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.comwrote: I second the use of an ATN sock for hoisting and dousing the sail. With a very little practice they work very well. I wouldn't worry too much about your kite being symmetric. the thing that throws people is the hassle of dealing with a pole. You don't really need it. You aren't trying to get maximum efficiency out of your sail, you just want it to work. And you can fly a symmetric kite exactly the same way you'd fly an asymmetric one. I would be careful about tacking it to the anchor roller assembly. It wasn't designed for upward loads. Satisfy yourself that it's going to be strong enough before you use it. I set my kite from just inside the headstay and it works fine. Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 3:15 PM, Ron Kaye ronkaye...@gmail.com wrote: That's an impressive piece of equipment Joel. Thanks for letting me know. (That's what she said har). Thanks. The symmetrical spin is the only extra sail we have. On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 3:12 PM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.comwrote: Ron, I hate to brag ... Luff is 44, leach is 39, foot is 28’2”. It came off a Tartan 34. Its cool flying it wing and wing in light air! If you have any other racing sails you don't need, let me know! Joel 35/3 The Office Annapolis On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 3:07 PM, Ron Kaye ronkaye...@gmail.com wrote: Joel, I hate to ask such a personal question, but what size is yours? On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 2:59 PM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.comwrote: Ron, Lisa, Glad you are getting to enjoy the boat! I have her twin on South River, and there is another in Selby as well. Double check the weight of the chute. They are usually .5 or .75 ounce. My heavy chute is 1.5. There are lots of used symmetrical chutes out there. Asyms are harder to find. Try L-36.com and click on used sail finder. It will check inventory of all the major sail suppliers. I found mine on Craigslist. Hope to see you on the Bay! Joel 35/3 The Office Annapolis On Wed, Aug 28, 2013 at 2:36 PM, Ron Kaye ronkaye...@gmail.comwrote: Thanks for all the great info on the 4000 Autohelm. I'm thinking it might be a magnetic disturbance of the compass and I think I might have stowed a head-mounted flashlight in the chart table. Maybe... I hope that's it. We shall see this weekend when we get back for another trip. As for the sail, the boat came with a tri-radial spinnaker. The real deal. I think the PPO may have been into racing but the PO and the CO's are not. The PO said he'd never raised the thing in 12 years. At this point, Lisa and I don't want to wrestle with a full on spinnaker if the wind pipes up and we have to get it under control in a hurry since it will usually be the two of us or the two of us and if there are others they won't know anything about sailing. So... a crusising spinnaker I believe is what we need. I'd like to get a used one and will check Bacon in Annapolis. If anyone would like to trade sails, I'd give up the tri-radial spinnaker for a asymmetrical of appropriate size. Its solid red. 3 oz, and seems to be well made amd in very good condition from what I've seen of it but I admit we haven't pulled the whole thing out of the bag. Its a Doyle sail. We are near Annapolis. As far as connecting it, we have a typical roller furler on for the genoa and a custom anchor roller sprit with a nice large piece of stainless that I could drill into to connect the tack with a few feet of line to allow it to rise up a bit to see under. Is that about right? From what I've heard, Bacon has the info to size the sail appropriately for make and model of boat but I'd like to hear any opinions from the list as well. Thanks again. Sorry to be a pests with all these questions. -- Ron Lisa '86 35/3 To be Renamed ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Ron ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Ron ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http
Re: Stus-List CC 35, additional water tank
Holding tank under the forward V. Water tank port under the dinette settee. Another under the starboard settee. A valve in the small cabinet under the drawers forward of the Nav table selects the water tank in use. '86 35/3 Ron On Aug 6, 2013, at 8:43 AM, Tim Goodyear timg...@gmail.com wrote: I have a holding tank under the foreward part (half?) of the v-berth, with no extra water tank. Anything aft of there would cover the transducers - so I'm also interested in what's where. Thanks, Tim Mojito - 35/3 On Tue, Aug 6, 2013 at 7:58 AM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: My holding tank is under the vee berth. Where is yours? Joel 35/3 On Aug 6, 2013, at 5:53 AM, Jake Brodersen captain_j...@cox.net wrote: I have two tanks. One under the starboard berth and a second under the V-berth, all the way forward (it’s always empty too). Jake ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 35, additional water tank
As is ours. I think it is larger than the port tank too but forget those details. It's an '86 35/3 Ron On Aug 5, 2013, at 10:03 PM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: Mine is under the starboard berth. Joel Aronson On Aug 5, 2013, at 9:12 PM, Richard H. Bernstein richard.h.bernst...@uvm.edu wrote: On my CC 35, I have one fresh water tank under the port settee. It holds 28 gallons. The boat specs say she carries 40 gallons. I wonder if there was another tank under the dinette. Has anyone installed extra water tanks, and if so, what was the source? We want to take her for an extended cruise south this winter and would like to carry more water. Richard Bernstein LUNA 1984 CC 35 Lake Champlain, Vermont ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List head replacement
Just grabbed the Jabsco in the box at West Marine. Manual pump type. I recalled some on the list saying (naybe you) that the pump rebuild was a pain and though the PO included that kit we decided to get a new pump unit. That unit didn't fit the head so we got the whole shebang. I didn't know how thick the wood was so I used 2 lags. One inch makes more sense since the wood is 3/4. But there's plenty of space and I didn't punch a hole in anything that I can tell. Ron On Aug 2, 2013, at 8:44 PM, Tim Goodyear timg...@gmail.com wrote: Ron, what head did you go with? I am getting fed up with replacing pump components on ours... Thanks, Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT On Aug 2, 2013, at 10:59 AM, Ron Kaye ronkaye...@gmail.com wrote: Bev and Bob, We just did this on our 35/3 last weekend. We originally got a replacement Jabsco pump to put on the existing bowl - it was supposed to fit all years models. It didn't. Four bolt attachment to a three bolt connection. Blah! So we simply got an entire new Jabsco from West. Two of the existing mounting bolts (I believe they were hanger bolts) broke off when taking off the old head. The new base did not fit over the previous ones. So then we did what you did and tried to find access from underneath for threaded bolts. Not available. Talked to a guy I know with a 35/1. It turned out to be simple deal: There is solid wood infer the fiberglass there. The answer is to use SS lag screws and washers. You need four. We used 5/16 x 2. West Marine. Just screw them through the glass into the wood. I cut the two old hangar bolts off with a hack saw (try not to saw the surrounding glass - this is the hardest part - a grinder would have been better). Set the new base on and marked two holes in front. Take it off and drill a smaller hole as you would for a wood screw. The fiberglass layer must be bored out to the diameter of the screw (5/16) or it will start cracking. So do that just at the top of the holes. Set the head in place and ratchet down the front two until it can't wiggle and mark the rear ones. Remove, repeat the drilling and don't forget the washers and a thin bead if silicone sealant under the base. Worked like a charm for us newbies. Ron Lisa On Aug 2, 2013, at 10:12 AM, broo...@aol.com broo...@aol.com wrote: Plan to replace CW with a Jabsco Twist and Lock. What suggestions do listers have for bolting this in place. There does not seem to be any access under the platform the current head is on. Toggle bolts have been suggested. Or creating an inspection port for placement of nuts/washers. Is there anything under there I need to worry about damaging? Thanks. Bev Genader Bob Morgan CC 37 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List head replacement
Bev and Bob, We just did this on our 35/3 last weekend. We originally got a replacement Jabsco pump to put on the existing bowl - it was supposed to fit all years models. It didn't. Four bolt attachment to a three bolt connection. Blah! So we simply got an entire new Jabsco from West. Two of the existing mounting bolts (I believe they were hanger bolts) broke off when taking off the old head. The new base did not fit over the previous ones. So then we did what you did and tried to find access from underneath for threaded bolts. Not available. Talked to a guy I know with a 35/1. It turned out to be simple deal: There is solid wood infer the fiberglass there. The answer is to use SS lag screws and washers. You need four. We used 5/16 x 2. West Marine. Just screw them through the glass into the wood. I cut the two old hangar bolts off with a hack saw (try not to saw the surrounding glass - this is the hardest part - a grinder would have been better). Set the new base on and marked two holes in front. Take it off and drill a smaller hole as you would for a wood screw. The fiberglass layer must be bored out to the diameter of the screw (5/16) or it will start cracking. So do that just at the top of the holes. Set the head in place and ratchet down the front two until it can't wiggle and mark the rear ones. Remove, repeat the drilling and don't forget the washers and a thin bead if silicone sealant under the base. Worked like a charm for us newbies. Ron Lisa On Aug 2, 2013, at 10:12 AM, broo...@aol.com broo...@aol.com wrote: Plan to replace CW with a Jabsco Twist and Lock. What suggestions do listers have for bolting this in place. There does not seem to be any access under the platform the current head is on. Toggle bolts have been suggested. Or creating an inspection port for placement of nuts/washers. Is there anything under there I need to worry about damaging? Thanks. Bev Genader Bob Morgan CC 37 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bigger Boat Question
Cute. Rhode Warrior Rhode Ann Rhode Hog Ron On May 31, 2013, at 8:35 AM, Hoyt, Mike mike.h...@impgroup.com wrote: Rhode Runner? From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lisa Lias Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 11:04 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Bigger Boat Question We needed a boat with more headroom and storage than our Rhodes 22 because we enjoyed that boat so much we knew we wanted to overnight/take trips more. (So bigger than 22) We needed to be able to handle it with 2 of us. (Don't know the realistic upper limit but we didn't look over 39 or so) We wanted more sleeping space for ourselves and a bit if we brought anyone who would be in to sleeping aboard. (Depends on the boat and the passenger for that one. You can actually sleep 6 of people on a Rhodes 22. Not kidding) Hot water. (Not specific to length but more than 22) Real head. (See above) Stove and fridge. (See above) Well built. Not specific to length at all. And...I won't say our price limit but we bought a 1986 35 mk III. We don't race but we do like to get where we're going. She's a goer. And a nice clean yanmar more than made up for the fact that the main isn't IMF like the Rhodes was. We sold the Rhodes with a clear conscience. She was not any form of lemon. But neither is the CC and its easier to live on, with 2 or with more. Ron and Lisa (Name to be announced post ceremony) Rhode River MD Sent from my iPhone On May 30, 2013, at 8:50 PM, Knowles Rich r...@sailpower.ca wrote: Hmm. Good list, but... If one is prone to indecision and second guessing, this simply adds to the huge pile of considerations to ponder before you can go sailing. Perhaps better to decide on a popular make like CC that will be resellable, get a couple of knowledgeable friends you believe in, and go looking for a decent local boat in the price range you can tolerate. Buy it, go sailing, and learn from the experience. There are always bigger, better, faster and fancier boats out there, but you won't really know what you want/need until you have tried a couple. Rich Knowles Indigo. LF38 Halifax On 2013-05-30, at 21:26, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.comwrote: Nice list! I might add PHRF, electronics, sail inventory, holding tank, pressure water, hot water heater. Joel Sent from my iPad On May 30, 2013, at 8:19 PM, Dennis C. capt...@yahoo.com wrote: One of my crew is looking for a boat, his first. I sent him a list of things to consider. Here's most of them. Bridge clearance- friend of mine has a nice big boat that can't get under several critical bridges leading to some prime sailing. Touche' is even too tall to get under some bridges where we sail How are the shrouds attached? Most CC's carry the shroud load to the hull. Many boats carry the load to a bulkhead. I don't like that. Keel - fin, bulb, shoal, wing, full, centerboard, dagger board Anchor locker on foredeck? Fold down, pedestal or mast dinette table Split lower shrouds vs inline shrouds Straight vs swept back spreaders? Baby stay? Diesel vs gas? Folding or fixed prop? Head? Shower? Tiller vs wheel? Propane stove? Mast head vs fractional? If I was looking for a race boat today, I'd go fractional Traveler location? End boom, bridgedeck, cabintop? Big cockpit for entertaining? Straight drive vs V-drive? Fiberglass vs holly/teak sole? Opening ports? Sugar scoop transom, stern ladder, opening Fiberglass headliner vs vinyl headliner The list goes on and on. When I was shopping for my first boat, I was pretty ignorant. I wanted a wheel, diesel and shower. Result? First boat - 0 for 3. Second boat had a wheel. :) Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Boot Stripes
Has anyone ever tried snapping a chalk line for this? I find that what looks straight over 4-5 feet can look different when more tape is laid down. Ron On Apr 24, 2013, at 8:57 AM, Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca wrote: No Rich, the problem is Dwight is 'right handed' trying to lay down the tape with his 'left hand'I think we have a bigger problem here! Bob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2013/04/23 11:29 PM, Knowles Rich wrote: That's the trouble! You are left handed. You have to buy left handed tape. Rich Knowles Indigo. LF38 Halifax On 2013-04-23, at 23:23, dwight veinot dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca wrote: my ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Strip LEDs Cabin Lighting
I have noticed that LED bulbs at home get surprisingly hot. Any heat issues with these? Ron On Apr 23, 2013, at 10:52 AM, Della Barba, Joe joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov wrote: http://www.ebay.com/sch/jbillings1/m.html?item=140946893818ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AITrt=nc_trksid=p2047675.l2562 FYI: I have bought a few 1142 size cabin light bulbs from this seller and they work great. The 1142s are 2 pin 2 contact bulbs used in a lot of cabin lights, but not common in cars. If you are not careful shopping you get 1157s which have offset pins and use the shell as a contact for 3 total connections (dim-bright). Joe Della Barba Coquina ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List New owner wants a nice healthy bottom
Yes we are a little late, its time to get moving on this. We are cruiusers, not racers and work full time - so we have to pay through the nose for this kind of thing. I do need to know a bit about how best to proceed. Her bottom needs to be stripped, and I've decided to consider the soda blasting for that. Caked and cracked paint with some painted over cracked off flake areas. She was surveyed - its just old layers of paint - her hull is sound. So after the soda-blasting what is next for the hull - do I need a new barrier coat at this point? We will change the bottom color from blue to black and get a new waterline painted. I would like the paint to last two or more seasons. Primer? Coats? Also, the keel won't drop past about 80-90%. Do I need to haul this and put it high enough to drop the keel, or dig a trench under the hull to drop it? Sand, grind, primer and paint? Any special pointers for dealing with a sticky keel? It retracts ok but just doesn't drop all the way. Not a big deal as we are cruisers not racers, but I would like it to work correctly and, of course, not get stuck. Please don't tell me to drop the keel unless you really have to tell me that. One last detail will be to paint the new name on her transom. The previous one is painted on. Would it be best to sand off the name and repaint the transom? Hull color is smoke white (original). Can that be matched with new paint? Finally, if anyone knows a provider in the Rhodes River (just South of Anapolis) area that can do this reasonably and well I'd appreciate any contact info on that. And yes we will do a name change ceremony with champagne sloshed and swallowed appropriately. Thanks to any kind CC sevants Name to be changed 1986 35/3 -- Ron ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List New owner wants a nice healthy bottom
Centerboard, yes. Sorry. The cable seems to be OK, but the board itself is just so massive - nothing like any I've known on smaller boats. No way to pull it up without using a winch. Ron On Apr 17, 2013, at 11:07 AM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: Ron, Welcome. I assume you mean the centerboard does not lower all the way? I've got a keel model. my main concern would be the condition of the cable. I had Osprey Marine at Herrington Harbor South soda blast,epoxy and paint the bottom of my boat 1 1/2 years ago. They did 4 coats of epoxy, 2 of paint. 35/3 The Office Annapolis On Wed, Apr 17, 2013 at 10:54 AM, Ron Kaye ronkaye...@gmail.com wrote: Yes we are a little late, its time to get moving on this. We are cruiusers, not racers and work full time - so we have to pay through the nose for this kind of thing. I do need to know a bit about how best to proceed. Her bottom needs to be stripped, and I've decided to consider the soda blasting for that. Caked and cracked paint with some painted over cracked off flake areas. She was surveyed - its just old layers of paint - her hull is sound. So after the soda-blasting what is next for the hull - do I need a new barrier coat at this point? We will change the bottom color from blue to black and get a new waterline painted. I would like the paint to last two or more seasons. Primer? Coats? Also, the keel won't drop past about 80-90%. Do I need to haul this and put it high enough to drop the keel, or dig a trench under the hull to drop it? Sand, grind, primer and paint? Any special pointers for dealing with a sticky keel? It retracts ok but just doesn't drop all the way. Not a big deal as we are cruisers not racers, but I would like it to work correctly and, of course, not get stuck. Please don't tell me to drop the keel unless you really have to tell me that. One last detail will be to paint the new name on her transom. The previous one is painted on. Would it be best to sand off the name and repaint the transom? Hull color is smoke white (original). Can that be matched with new paint? Finally, if anyone knows a provider in the Rhodes River (just South of Anapolis) area that can do this reasonably and well I'd appreciate any contact info on that. And yes we will do a name change ceremony with champagne sloshed and swallowed appropriately. Thanks to any kind CC sevants Name to be changed 1986 35/3 -- Ron ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List New owner wants a nice healthy bottom
I just contacted the nearest marina that can haul me and asked them for an estimate. Seems to be in line with what others are saying. $4050 for the 35' boat which includes: 1. Soda blasting 2. 4 barrier coats of 2000e 3. 2 coats Interlux micron bottom paint Which Interlux micron, I didn't ask. Maybe I should. Any thoughts are appreciated. Ron On Apr 17, 2013, at 3:54 PM, djhaug...@juno.com djhaug...@juno.com wrote: would guys mind sharing the cost of those bottom jobs? -- Original Message -- From: Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List New owner wants a nice healthy bottom Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 11:07:06 -0400 Ron, Welcome. �I assume you mean the centerboard does not lower all the way? �I've got a keel model. �my main concern would be the condition of the cable. I had Osprey Marine at Herrington Harbor South soda blast,epoxy and paint the bottom of my boat 1 1/2 years ago. �They did 4 coats of epoxy, 2 of paint. 35/3 The Office Annapolis On Wed, Apr 17, 2013 at 10:54 AM, Ron Kaye ronkaye...@gmail.com wrote: Yes we are a little late, its time to get moving on this. �We are cruiusers, not racers and work full time - so we have to pay through the nose for this kind of thing. �I do need to know a bit about how best to proceed. Her bottom needs to be stripped, and I've decided to consider the soda blasting for that. �Caked and cracked paint with some painted over cracked off flake areas. �She was surveyed - its just old layers of paint - her hull is sound. So after the soda-blasting what is next for the hull - do I need a new barrier coat at this point? � We will change the bottom color from blue to black and get a new waterline painted. �I would like the paint to last two or more seasons. Primer? �Coats? Also, the keel won't drop past about 80-90%. �Do I need to haul this and put it high enough to drop the keel, or dig a trench under the hull to drop it? �Sand, grind, primer and paint? �Any special pointers for dealing with a sticky keel? �It retracts ok but just doesn't drop all the way. �Not a big deal as we are cruisers not racers, but I would like it to work correctly and, of course, not get stuck. �Please don't tell me to drop the keel unless you really have to tell me that. One last detail will be to paint the new name on her transom. �The previous one is painted on. �Would it be best to sand off the name and repaint the transom? �Hull color is smoke white (original). �Can that be matched with new paint? Finally, if anyone knows a provider in the Rhodes River (just South of Anapolis) area that can do this reasonably and well I'd appreciate any contact info on that. And yes we will do a name change ceremony with champagne sloshed and swallowed appropriately. Thanks to any kind CC sevants Name to be changed 1986 35/3 -- Ron ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Tsunamis
Here's a question. If one were on the bay say around Annapolis, and Gibraltar fell into the Atlantic sending a 50M tsunami East, what would the situation be for riding that out in the middle of the bay in say 70' of water? Ron On Mar 22, 2013, at 2:30 PM, Marek Dziedzic dziedzi...@hotmail.com wrote: Subscribe to NRCan or USGS earthquake warning system. They send emails (or text messages, I think) within seconds of a quake. I am not sure how (publicly) available this is, but I bet that at least your Club or Marina can get it. In order for full disclosure, I get these alerts as part of my work, but I don't know how feasible is to subscribe individually. Another thing is that I bet that the BC government has a notification system on its own (fed from the same source, possibly available a bit easier). Marek (in Ottawa) ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Tsunamis
If you could stay in the crest it would be quite a ride. I would think it would break perhaps repeatedly. The essential question is how large of a wave could you safely ride out in 70' of water do that the sides were not steep enough to cause pitchpole? Ron On Mar 22, 2013, at 5:34 PM, Della Barba, Joe joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov wrote: You and your boat would be relocated to someplace in mid-Pennsylvania. You would enjoy the scenic river and canal system that connects Pittsburgh to the other sailing hot spots like Morgantown WV. Joe Della Barba From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron Kaye Sent: Friday, March 22, 2013 5:25 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Tsunamis Here's a question. If one were on the bay say around Annapolis, and Gibraltar fell into the Atlantic sending a 50M tsunami East, what would the situation be for riding that out in the middle of the bay in say 70' of water? Ron On Mar 22, 2013, at 2:30 PM, Marek Dziedzic dziedzi...@hotmail.com wrote: Subscribe to NRCan or USGS earthquake warning system. They send emails (or text messages, I think) within seconds of a quake. I am not sure how (publicly) available this is, but I bet that at least your Club or Marina can get it. In order for full disclosure, I get these alerts as part of my work, but I don't know how feasible is to subscribe individually. Another thing is that I bet that the BC government has a notification system on its own (fed from the same source, possibly available a bit easier). Marek (in Ottawa) ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Interior Varnish
Let me jump in here. What's the best way to scuff the sole and do it well in prep for 3 coats of best stuff whatever? 220 grit with a random orbital sander is what I typically do for household application or furniture refinishing. Good? I assume a flexible product like a sanding sponge for the corners and grooves and avoid steel wool? I don't want to use a chemical stripper. Are any water borne polys in the mix? I generally don't like the lack of depth in the appearance of the final product but might go that way for ease of application and periodic reapplication if it would hold up. Thoughts appreciated. Ron and Lisa 1986 35/3 To be renamed On Mar 20, 2013, at 1:48 PM, djhaug...@juno.com djhaug...@juno.com wrote: Yea, thats the idea. I want to get it looking better quickly so I can move in to other stuff! -- Original Message -- From: Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Interior Varnish Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2013 09:33:02 -0400 Danny, I'd scratch up the bare places and touch them up with sealer or really thin varnish. after that dried, I scuff the whole thing and apply a topcoat. That's if I just wanted to get some varnish on quick. Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Wed, Mar 20, 2013 at 9:22 AM, djhaug...@juno.com djhaug...@juno.com wrote: I need to touch up my interior varnish. I was planning to just scuff and coat. �There are some areas where the varnish is completely worn through and others where it is in good shape. �No real pealing. Will my skuff and coat plan work or am I being too optimistic? Danny Lolita 1973 Viking 33 Westport Point, MA -- Original Message -- From: Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Interior Varnish Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2013 03:35:52 + Gary, I'm responding to your first question without listening to others. �Take that for what it's worth. I have found MinWax Satin Finish Marine Varnish to be a very good interior boat varnish for areas that are not subjected to 24x7 UV. Really and seriously. �I wouldn't use it on the sole, but really believe that is is a good interior varnish. Best regards, Wal Gary Russell wrote: I am about to refinish the teak on the interior of Expresso. �The question is, what varnish should I use ( Satin, gloss, Epiphanes, MinWax, etc)?. �All suggestions appreciated. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone� +401 965 5260 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Cruising Spinnaker
Newbie question on this thread. Lisa and I, after much online research on good old boats decided on a 1986 CC mk iii 35 which we bought last October. A boat I can stand up in at last! We sailed it 3 times so far. Previous boats were smaller sloop rig and I've never flown a spinnaker. This one came with a spinnaker and has the pole nicely strapped down on the deck. Previous owner of a dozen years never used the spin and it seemed he thought it was more than he wanted to deal with - a fine somewhat elderly gentleman who cruised with his wife from the Chesapeake bay to the keys a few times and kept his engine spotlessly clean. I don't recall any extra blocks at the bow. I have the spin in a bag and it seems to be in great condition - maybe even new or almost new. It's solid red in color if that means anything - probably not, but maybe vintage 1986? IDK. Asymmetrical cruising type. We don't want to race cause we just don't have time. We will day sail and do some Multi day cruises as we can. We're on the Chesapeake. I want to use the spinnaker this coming season. I just want the thing to pull the boat along DDW (or thereabouts) when we need to and not have it look all goofy or be too hard or dangerous to deal with when wind pipes up and everything goes crazy. Any advice on how to proceed with a newbie KISS approach would be great. Take the pole off the boat and store in the garage for the future owner? Ok. I like the sound of that. Do I need to attach a block near the bow? It seems a sock would be a good addition. Who sells those and what size do I need? Thanks! Ron and Lisa Mr Bop 1986 Mk III 35 On Feb 26, 2013, at 11:21 AM, Pete Shelquist pete.shelqu...@comcast.net wrote: My take down process is the same as Joe’s. One twist when solo; I throw the halyard overboard. Due to drag of the water on the line I pull the chute down vs having it fall in the water. Nice trick and works well whether it’s blowing 5, 15 or whatever. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 9:13 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Cruising Spinnaker To add: 99% of the time I am doing this in light air under autopilot. If the wind is heavy enough to make the boat squirrely under Otto I’ll use the genoa instead. To lower I’ll usually pop the shackle off the tack and use the sheet to pull the sail into the cockpit. I tend to raise the sail from the mast and then run the halyard aft to lower it from the cockpit. In real light air it is easy enough to lower it onto the foredeck if you want to. In a race with DDW legs the boats with poles will beat you AND you might take a PHRF* hit for being “different” – this is a cruising technique. There really is nothing quite as nice as making good way in light air under the awning with a cold drink watching the chute while everyone else is going downwind in a cloud of exhaust. * I wonder if anyone would want to make a “cruising chute asym class” where you don’t use bowsprits and set the downwind legs with offset marks. Might be a lot more fun than JAM racing on a light air day and still be doable with a small crew. Joe Della Barba Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G Street Sent: Monday, February 25, 2013 11:06 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Cruising Spinnaker I forgot to mention that Pete Shelquist from this list is selling me a used chute scoop, so I'll add that to the rig. Up until now, if the wind piped up, we had to just let the sheet fly and try to stuff the spin down the forehatch. The scoop should help me out with dousing, and maybe even allow me to fly the spin when single-handing. Also, I DO have a fixed spinnaker pole; but I've never used it, and it's been living off the boat in storage for several years, as it just got underfoot. If anyone has a need for it, let me know -- I'd rather have a whisker pole for the sailing I do. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( On Feb 25, 2013, at 9:57 AM, Rich Knowles r...@sailpower.ca wrote: That sounds very similar to the setup I use with my asymmetrical, Fred. I had not thought of using the symmetrical that way. Now that my engine is rebuilt and I may get some sailing in, I'll give it a whirl. Rich Knowles Indigo. LF38 Halifax ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Cruising Spinnaker
We're on the Rhodes R just South of Annapolis. That would be great. No big hurry right now of course. We are going to haul 'n paint in March-April. Ron On Feb 26, 2013, at 12:27 PM, Della Barba, Joe joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov wrote: Where are you? I am sure someone can meet up with you and go over the rigging. Joe Della Barba From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron Kaye Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 12:16 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Cruising Spinnaker Newbie question on this thread. Lisa and I, after much online research on good old boats decided on a 1986 CC mk iii 35 which we bought last October. A boat I can stand up in at last! We sailed it 3 times so far. Previous boats were smaller sloop rig and I've never flown a spinnaker. This one came with a spinnaker and has the pole nicely strapped down on the deck. Previous owner of a dozen years never used the spin and it seemed he thought it was more than he wanted to deal with - a fine somewhat elderly gentleman who cruised with his wife from the Chesapeake bay to the keys a few times and kept his engine spotlessly clean. I don't recall any extra blocks at the bow. I have the spin in a bag and it seems to be in great condition - maybe even new or almost new. It's solid red in color if that means anything - probably not, but maybe vintage 1986? IDK. Asymmetrical cruising type. We don't want to race cause we just don't have time. We will day sail and do some Multi day cruises as we can. We're on the Chesapeake. I want to use the spinnaker this coming season. I just want the thing to pull the boat along DDW (or thereabouts) when we need to and not have it look all goofy or be too hard or dangerous to deal with when wind pipes up and everything goes crazy. Any advice on how to proceed with a newbie KISS approach would be great. Take the pole off the boat and store in the garage for the future owner? Ok. I like the sound of that. Do I need to attach a block near the bow? It seems a sock would be a good addition. Who sells those and what size do I need? Thanks! Ron and Lisa Mr Bop 1986 Mk III 35 On Feb 26, 2013, at 11:21 AM, Pete Shelquist pete.shelqu...@comcast.net wrote: My take down process is the same as Joe’s. One twist when solo; I throw the halyard overboard. Due to drag of the water on the line I pull the chute down vs having it fall in the water. Nice trick and works well whether it’s blowing 5, 15 or whatever. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 9:13 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Cruising Spinnaker To add: 99% of the time I am doing this in light air under autopilot. If the wind is heavy enough to make the boat squirrely under Otto I’ll use the genoa instead. To lower I’ll usually pop the shackle off the tack and use the sheet to pull the sail into the cockpit. I tend to raise the sail from the mast and then run the halyard aft to lower it from the cockpit. In real light air it is easy enough to lower it onto the foredeck if you want to. In a race with DDW legs the boats with poles will beat you AND you might take a PHRF* hit for being “different” – this is a cruising technique. There really is nothing quite as nice as making good way in light air under the awning with a cold drink watching the chute while everyone else is going downwind in a cloud of exhaust. * I wonder if anyone would want to make a “cruising chute asym class” where you don’t use bowsprits and set the downwind legs with offset marks. Might be a lot more fun than JAM racing on a light air day and still be doable with a small crew. Joe Della Barba Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G Street Sent: Monday, February 25, 2013 11:06 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Cruising Spinnaker I forgot to mention that Pete Shelquist from this list is selling me a used chute scoop, so I'll add that to the rig. Up until now, if the wind piped up, we had to just let the sheet fly and try to stuff the spin down the forehatch. The scoop should help me out with dousing, and maybe even allow me to fly the spin when single-handing. Also, I DO have a fixed spinnaker pole; but I've never used it, and it's been living off the boat in storage for several years, as it just got underfoot. If anyone has a need for it, let me know -- I'd rather have a whisker pole for the sailing I do. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( On Feb 25, 2013, at 9:57 AM, Rich Knowles r...@sailpower.ca wrote: That sounds very similar to the setup I use with my asymmetrical, Fred. I had
Re: Stus-List Cruising Spinnaker
I appreciate the concern Dwight. Indeed there would be just the two of us most often. I have great respect for these nature forces. Still I would like to use this if possible at least on occasion. I know an experienced sailor we can work with and see how feasible it is. Keeping a close watch on changing conditions I know is important. I also know conditions can change quickly. And when the rain comes it feels like getting hit by hundreds of BBs. Ron On Feb 26, 2013, at 12:28 PM, dwight veinot dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca wrote: You would benefit from the help of skilled crew…no matter how you rig it unless you have the “know how” it could be hard and / or even dangerous to use or get down “when the wind pipes up and things go crazy.” That is a very powerful sail and the lines attached to it and out of control in the wind can hit you like flying hammers Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron Kaye Sent: February 26, 2013 1:16 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Cruising Spinnaker Newbie question on this thread. Lisa and I, after much online research on good old boats decided on a 1986 CC mk iii 35 which we bought last October. A boat I can stand up in at last! We sailed it 3 times so far. Previous boats were smaller sloop rig and I've never flown a spinnaker. This one came with a spinnaker and has the pole nicely strapped down on the deck. Previous owner of a dozen years never used the spin and it seemed he thought it was more than he wanted to deal with - a fine somewhat elderly gentleman who cruised with his wife from the Chesapeake bay to the keys a few times and kept his engine spotlessly clean. I don't recall any extra blocks at the bow. I have the spin in a bag and it seems to be in great condition - maybe even new or almost new. It's solid red in color if that means anything - probably not, but maybe vintage 1986? IDK. Asymmetrical cruising type. We don't want to race cause we just don't have time. We will day sail and do some Multi day cruises as we can. We're on the Chesapeake. I want to use the spinnaker this coming season. I just want the thing to pull the boat along DDW (or thereabouts) when we need to and not have it look all goofy or be too hard or dangerous to deal with when wind pipes up and everything goes crazy. Any advice on how to proceed with a newbie KISS approach would be great. Take the pole off the boat and store in the garage for the future owner? Ok. I like the sound of that. Do I need to attach a block near the bow? It seems a sock would be a good addition. Who sells those and what size do I need? Thanks! Ron and Lisa Mr Bop 1986 Mk III 35 On Feb 26, 2013, at 11:21 AM, Pete Shelquist pete.shelqu...@comcast.net wrote: My take down process is the same as Joe’s. One twist when solo; I throw the halyard overboard. Due to drag of the water on the line I pull the chute down vs having it fall in the water. Nice trick and works well whether it’s blowing 5, 15 or whatever. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 9:13 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Cruising Spinnaker To add: 99% of the time I am doing this in light air under autopilot. If the wind is heavy enough to make the boat squirrely under Otto I’ll use the genoa instead. To lower I’ll usually pop the shackle off the tack and use the sheet to pull the sail into the cockpit. I tend to raise the sail from the mast and then run the halyard aft to lower it from the cockpit. In real light air it is easy enough to lower it onto the foredeck if you want to. In a race with DDW legs the boats with poles will beat you AND you might take a PHRF* hit for being “different” – this is a cruising technique. There really is nothing quite as nice as making good way in light air under the awning with a cold drink watching the chute while everyone else is going downwind in a cloud of exhaust. * I wonder if anyone would want to make a “cruising chute asym class” where you don’t use bowsprits and set the downwind legs with offset marks. Might be a lot more fun than JAM racing on a light air day and still be doable with a small crew. Joe Della Barba Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G Street Sent: Monday, February 25, 2013 11:06 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Cruising Spinnaker I forgot to mention that Pete Shelquist from this list is selling me a used chute scoop, so I'll add that to the rig. Up until now, if the wind piped up, we had to just let the sheet fly and try to stuff the spin down the forehatch. The scoop should help
Re: Stus-List Cruising Spinnaker
Wow. This sounds great. Our first time out we went to Pirates Cove. Good time there. Parking that behemoth in their slip in a light breeze was surprisingly challenging. I know its going to be a long road learning to handle something this size. Will file this too. Hope to see you in May. Ron On Feb 26, 2013, at 1:31 PM, Della Barba, Joe joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov wrote: I am over on Kent Island. I am sure we can meet up. If nothing else, show up at our CRYC Annual Regatta J My wife likes the restaurants in Galesville, so maybe we can go down there one day and check out the sail. Joe Della Barba From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron Kaye Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 12:36 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Cruising Spinnaker We're on the Rhodes R just South of Annapolis. That would be great. No big hurry right now of course. We are going to haul 'n paint in March-April. Ron On Feb 26, 2013, at 12:27 PM, Della Barba, Joe joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov wrote: Where are you? I am sure someone can meet up with you and go over the rigging. Joe Della Barba From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron Kaye Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 12:16 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Cruising Spinnaker Newbie question on this thread. Lisa and I, after much online research on good old boats decided on a 1986 CC mk iii 35 which we bought last October. A boat I can stand up in at last! We sailed it 3 times so far. Previous boats were smaller sloop rig and I've never flown a spinnaker. This one came with a spinnaker and has the pole nicely strapped down on the deck. Previous owner of a dozen years never used the spin and it seemed he thought it was more than he wanted to deal with - a fine somewhat elderly gentleman who cruised with his wife from the Chesapeake bay to the keys a few times and kept his engine spotlessly clean. I don't recall any extra blocks at the bow. I have the spin in a bag and it seems to be in great condition - maybe even new or almost new. It's solid red in color if that means anything - probably not, but maybe vintage 1986? IDK. Asymmetrical cruising type. We don't want to race cause we just don't have time. We will day sail and do some Multi day cruises as we can. We're on the Chesapeake. I want to use the spinnaker this coming season. I just want the thing to pull the boat along DDW (or thereabouts) when we need to and not have it look all goofy or be too hard or dangerous to deal with when wind pipes up and everything goes crazy. Any advice on how to proceed with a newbie KISS approach would be great. Take the pole off the boat and store in the garage for the future owner? Ok. I like the sound of that. Do I need to attach a block near the bow? It seems a sock would be a good addition. Who sells those and what size do I need? Thanks! Ron and Lisa Mr Bop 1986 Mk III 35 On Feb 26, 2013, at 11:21 AM, Pete Shelquist pete.shelqu...@comcast.net wrote: My take down process is the same as Joe’s. One twist when solo; I throw the halyard overboard. Due to drag of the water on the line I pull the chute down vs having it fall in the water. Nice trick and works well whether it’s blowing 5, 15 or whatever. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 9:13 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Cruising Spinnaker To add: 99% of the time I am doing this in light air under autopilot. If the wind is heavy enough to make the boat squirrely under Otto I’ll use the genoa instead. To lower I’ll usually pop the shackle off the tack and use the sheet to pull the sail into the cockpit. I tend to raise the sail from the mast and then run the halyard aft to lower it from the cockpit. In real light air it is easy enough to lower it onto the foredeck if you want to. In a race with DDW legs the boats with poles will beat you AND you might take a PHRF* hit for being “different” – this is a cruising technique. There really is nothing quite as nice as making good way in light air under the awning with a cold drink watching the chute while everyone else is going downwind in a cloud of exhaust. * I wonder if anyone would want to make a “cruising chute asym class” where you don’t use bowsprits and set the downwind legs with offset marks. Might be a lot more fun than JAM racing on a light air day and still be doable with a small crew. Joe Della Barba Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G Street Sent: Monday, February 25, 2013 11:06 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Cruising Spinnaker I forgot to mention
Re: Stus-List Cruising Spinnaker
Yes thanks again Dwight. The latter is the option I intend to take. The fellow owns a similar boat I think it's a CC 30 and gives lessons on it. We have had one private lesson on ours. We will have at least a couple more this season, the spinnaker will be a subject of some if this training but I want to be prepared with whatever accessories are necessary and advisable. And if I'm really not going to need the pole-can get by without it, I'm going to remove it from the boat. Ron On Feb 26, 2013, at 2:07 PM, dwight veinot dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca wrote: No substitute for experience…either get on board another boat and learn more there or better still invite someone with experience to help on your boat if you can…once you know how and when to use your spinnaker you will love it and you will be very pleased with your sailing skills…best of fun to you Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron Kaye Sent: February 26, 2013 2:41 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Cruising Spinnaker I appreciate the concern Dwight. Indeed there would be just the two of us most often. I have great respect for these nature forces. Still I would like to use this if possible at least on occasion. I know an experienced sailor we can work with and see how feasible it is. Keeping a close watch on changing conditions I know is important. I also know conditions can change quickly. And when the rain comes it feels like getting hit by hundreds of BBs. Ron On Feb 26, 2013, at 12:28 PM, dwight veinot dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca wrote: You would benefit from the help of skilled crew…no matter how you rig it unless you have the “know how” it could be hard and / or even dangerous to use or get down “when the wind pipes up and things go crazy.” That is a very powerful sail and the lines attached to it and out of control in the wind can hit you like flying hammers Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron Kaye Sent: February 26, 2013 1:16 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Cruising Spinnaker Newbie question on this thread. Lisa and I, after much online research on good old boats decided on a 1986 CC mk iii 35 which we bought last October. A boat I can stand up in at last! We sailed it 3 times so far. Previous boats were smaller sloop rig and I've never flown a spinnaker. This one came with a spinnaker and has the pole nicely strapped down on the deck. Previous owner of a dozen years never used the spin and it seemed he thought it was more than he wanted to deal with - a fine somewhat elderly gentleman who cruised with his wife from the Chesapeake bay to the keys a few times and kept his engine spotlessly clean. I don't recall any extra blocks at the bow. I have the spin in a bag and it seems to be in great condition - maybe even new or almost new. It's solid red in color if that means anything - probably not, but maybe vintage 1986? IDK. Asymmetrical cruising type. We don't want to race cause we just don't have time. We will day sail and do some Multi day cruises as we can. We're on the Chesapeake. I want to use the spinnaker this coming season. I just want the thing to pull the boat along DDW (or thereabouts) when we need to and not have it look all goofy or be too hard or dangerous to deal with when wind pipes up and everything goes crazy. Any advice on how to proceed with a newbie KISS approach would be great. Take the pole off the boat and store in the garage for the future owner? Ok. I like the sound of that. Do I need to attach a block near the bow? It seems a sock would be a good addition. Who sells those and what size do I need? Thanks! Ron and Lisa Mr Bop 1986 Mk III 35 On Feb 26, 2013, at 11:21 AM, Pete Shelquist pete.shelqu...@comcast.net wrote: My take down process is the same as Joe’s. One twist when solo; I throw the halyard overboard. Due to drag of the water on the line I pull the chute down vs having it fall in the water. Nice trick and works well whether it’s blowing 5, 15 or whatever. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 9:13 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Cruising Spinnaker To add: 99% of the time I am doing this in light air under autopilot. If the wind is heavy enough to make the boat squirrely under Otto I’ll use the genoa instead. To lower I’ll usually pop the shackle off the tack and use the sheet to pull the sail into the cockpit. I tend to raise the sail from the mast and then run the halyard aft to lower it from
Re: Stus-List Economic justification for owning a boat
Valhalla has free slips. Balder the Beautiful, slain my mistletoe and mischief, on his burning funeral ship while the gods weep on the strand. Ron Lisa Mister Bop CC 35 MkIII On Feb 21, 2013, at 7:50 AM, Della Barba, Joe joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov wrote: You wake up, quietly get in the dinghy with the dogs, push off and drift 50 feet away before starting the outboard, and head to shore. The dogs pee while you get the morning paper and some coffee from the coffee shop. Heading back out to the mooring field with the morning sun flooding the anchorage with an orange glow you gently climb back aboard to surprise your still sleeping wife with the treats from shore and think you wouldn’t be anywhere else for ANY amount of money. Or the sane people realize they could go on a cruise ship or other expensive vacation two or three times a year for what it costs to run the boat. So we the not-quite-right sail on and the sheeple get herded here and there on the latest discount tour to some tourist hell. Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
