Stus-List Re: C&C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

2022-09-05 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
Happy to hear it!

I bought one of these:

Performance Tool M204 100-600...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PX16Z4Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I torqued everything to spec in spring 2019 and filled the smile with
gflex. Haven't had to touch anything since.

On Mon, Sep 5, 2022, 2:09 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Those sizes are correct – thanks!
>
> I don’t have a torque wrench that big, so I have them “tight”. I just
> ordered this thing, so I can set them exactly:
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GLITFW?psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C&C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Thomas Delaney via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, August 28, 2022 10:08 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* j...@dellabarba.com; Thomas Delaney 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C&C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
>
>
>
> Hi Joe,
>
>
>
> I believe it is 1 1/8" for the front-most nut and 1 1/2" for the rest.
>
>
>
> Best,
>
> Tom
>
>
>


Stus-List Re: C&C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

2022-08-28 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
Hi Joe,

I believe it is 1 1/8" for the front-most nut and 1 1/2" for the rest.

Best,
Tom

On Sun, Aug 28, 2022 at 6:17 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Does anyone know the socket sizes needed to tighten them?
>
> I had this info somewhere and it vanished ☹
>
>
>
> THANKS!!
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C&C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>

-- 
---
Thomas C. Delaney
Snow Goose C&C 35-1
City Island, NY


Stus-List Re: Engine not turning over

2022-07-07 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
I spent three weeks working on the same sort of problem with my 2gm20f. I
replaced almost all the wiring from the alternator to the panel, from the
key to the push button, from the push button to the solenoid, etc...

Nothing I had done so far worked (although through testing/metering
everything I did fix a few other intermittent problems). I pulled the
starter (two mounting bolts, and three contacts on the alternator) and took
it apart. The ground brush was worn down to the point that you could see
light between it and the commutator. For $60, 10 hours later a local
ignition shop installed new brushes, a new solenoid, and cleaned everything
up for me.

While I'm glad I spent the time tracing the wiring and learning how the
system works, I kind of wish I had pulled the starter straight away to
bench test it.

T

===
Snow Goose
1973 C&C 35-1
City Island, NY

On Thu, Jul 7, 2022 at 9:07 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Last night, out of the blue, my engine would not turn over after a race.
> Nothing at all when I push the start button.  I ran the engine before the
> race and all was fine and have had no issues at all this year.
> Fortunately, I was able to sail the short distance to the mooring without a
> problem.  I will be going out to the boat later to try to fix the problem
> and wanted to see if anyone had thoughts on the problem from personal
> experience.
>
> Plenty of power- batteries fully charged.  I tried bridging the two
> batteries just to be sure and still nothing happens.
> Key switch on I can hear the fuel pump ticking over.
>  I measured 12V across the start button poles, which goes to zero when
> pressed and my recollection is that is normal the way it is wired with the
> glow plug button.  I have not yet measured at the starter, as that is a
> real PITA to get to.
>
> Everything had been working fine up until that incident.  The only thing
> that happened during the race, (and I don’t think relevant) is that the
> genoa sheet got wrapped around the engine stop pull knob at one point.  I
> checked and the cable and stop look fine, and the engine should still turn
> over even if it were pulled, is my understanding.  It just should not
> start.
>
> So I am thinking either engine ground wire or starter and plan to clean
> both and try again.  Any thoughts welcome.  Thanks- Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>

-- 
---
Thomas C. Delaney
tomcdela...@gmail.com


Re: Stus-List Listers Age Range

2020-07-15 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
33. Bought the boat and joined the list at 29.

-- 
---
Thomas C. Delaney
35-1 Snow Goose
City Island, NY

-- Forwarded message --
From: Randy Stafford 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Luke Wolbrink 
Bcc:
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2020 01:46:25 -0600
Subject: Stus-List Listers Age Range
So far we’ve got:

Youngest: Luke Wolbrink, age 35
Wisest: Doug Robinson, age 86

I’m in that range, 56.  Neither young nor wise :)

Good to see some young people here - way to go guys.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO
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Re: Stus-List Battery Charging

2020-01-17 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
I use that same panel hanging off of the stern rail, connected to a Victron
75/15 MPPT controller with the Bluetooth dongle, and a Blue Sea System ACR
to keep two group 24 AGM batteries topped up all summer.

It has worked great for the last three seasons.  I've never had any issues
(except for my first season, when I didn't take the batteries home until
December and had to replace one of them). As a bonus I get to pretend I
understand all the graphs displayed in the Victron app, and all the data I
log from the controller:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1j-H-lw-B89Er6JUJsCqsGhIkCOiLz1Z_6XzcCX4kv2w/edit?usp=sharing

Links to parts mentioned above:
https://www.amazon.com/Victron-BlueSolar-Controller-VE-Direct-Bluetooth/dp/B07235YXT2/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=victron+mppt&qid=1579280973&sr=8-10

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Automatc-Charging/dp/B000OTIPDQ/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=blue+sea+acr&qid=1579280953&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/Sea-Dog-327199-1-Removable-Clamps/dp/B00TUNSR9Y/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=seadog+rail+mount&qid=1579282098&sr=8-1

On Fri, Jan 17, 2020 at 12:00 PM  wrote:

-- Forwarded message --
> From: Joe Della Barba 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2020 09:50:08 -0500
> Subject: Re: Stus-List battery charger
> When I am on my mooring I have a 50 watt solar panel I put out. It does
> a great job keeping the batteries up.
>
> Here is what I have:
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Monocrystalline-Efficiency-Charging-Applications/dp/B07GTH79JP/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1YHG5B6WOEU25&keywords=renogy+50+watt+solar+panel&qid=1579272135&sprefix=renogy+50+watt+sola%2Caps%2C148&sr=8-3
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Morningstar-SG-4-SunGuard-Charge-Controller/dp/B000O3O0W2/ref=sr_1_2?crid=LEY8OPSIU151&keywords=morningstar+solar+charge+controller&qid=1579272250&sprefix=morningstar+solar%2Caps%2C141&sr=8-2
>
> Between both of them I have about $120 or so in this setup. I use it
> also cruising while at anchor. The panel is not mounted, I have it on a
> long cord and place it to get the most sun.
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina
>
> C&C 35 MK I   Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
> ___
> CnC-List mailing list
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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Stus-List JAM vs Spinnaker Racing

2019-12-18 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
I don't know, it might be cheaper in the long run to move somewhere with a
more competitive JAM fleet.

---
Thomas C. Delaney
35-1 Snow Goose
City Island, NY



On Wed, Dec 18, 2019, 6:41 PM  wrote:

> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
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> Today's Topics:
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
> To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2019 13:41:34 -0500 (EST)
> Subject: Stus-List JAM vs Spinnaker Racing
> JAM vs Spinnaker racing
> Moving up to Spinnaker racing was always my goal.  It's a way to learn
> more about sailing and racing and the ultimate test of ones skills and a
> way to measure improvements.  But it requires more hands, more crew and
> more crew skills, more money, more tactical/sailing skill.
>
> The boats winning JAM have new white $ails while the boats winning the
> spin class have new black $ail$ for upwind and new colored $ail$ for
> downwind.   Plus, the competition among Spinnaker fleet seems a lot more
> aggressive at the start and unforgiving.
>
> I am for whatever gets people out sailing, using their boats more; racing,
> cruising distances or just daysailing more, instead of the boats sitting
> idle at the dock.
>
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute, 1989 C&C 34R
>
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Re: Stus-List Block Island's Great Salt Pond - Town Mooring or Dock Reservation?

2019-06-27 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
Thanks all, I have a dock reservation pending! Champlin's has a two night
minimum so I'm trying my luck at the New Harbor Boat Basin first. If
neither of those work out, I'll try my luck at Fishers Island or somewhere
else up the CT coast.

I had not considered Cuttyhunk Island as a possibility, and will definitely
add it to the itinerary of a future cruise. Sounds much more my speed
versus Block. Thanks for the recommendation, Damian!

All best,
Tom

---
Snow Goose
'73 C&C 35-1
City Island, NY

-- Forwarded message --
From: David Risch 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2019 22:19:59 +
Subject: Re: Stus-List Block Island's Great Salt Pond - Town Mooring or
Dock Reservation?
And holding ground is not great with deepish anchoring waters.   Get the
slip...
--
*From:* CnC-List  on behalf of
damian.greene--- via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Wednesday, June 26, 2019 6:01:37 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* damian.gre...@yahoo.com
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Block Island's Great Salt Pond - Town Mooring or
Dock Reservation?

Tom,

I second Edd's comments. Go for a slip. Choice is limited - many of the
slips are too shallow.

When we lived in Connecticut, Block was the most fun part of our summer
cruise. Rather than deal with the uncertainty of finding a mooring, we
would book a "slip" at Champlin's. I use the term slip advisedly, because
Champlin's pile the boats in, and you will inevitably find yourself rafted
3 deep. However, that is all part of the fun. The place is a summer-long
party (80% power boaters), with a bar by the fuel dock, music, pizza,
ice-cream, cinema, pool. Really a lot of fun - and that is before you even
leave the marina.

If you have an extra couple of days, Cuttyhunk is about 35 miles further.
The "anti-Block". Well worth the visit.

Damian Greene

Sabre 38 Freefall
Bass Harbor, Maine
(previously C&C 34)

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android


On Wed, Jun 26, 2019 at 9:02 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List
 wrote:
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Stus-List Block Island's Great Salt Pond - Town Mooring or Dock Reservation?

2019-06-26 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
Hi Listers,

My crew is demanding that I give them a break from racing so we are
planning for our first cruise, heading up Long Island Sound to Newport and
Block Island, next month. I've arranged dock space at the navy base in
Newport, but I'm still working out the details for the stop at Block Island.

We'd be arriving on a Sunday afternoon and staying overnight. Does anyone
know what the town mooring situation in the Great Salt Pond is like? Would
it be better to forget about the moorings and make a reservation now at one
of the marinas instead?

My worry is that all the town moorings will be occupied, the docks'll be
full, and we'll have to set an anchor for the night. My anchor tackle is
geared towards racing rather than cruising (150 ft of nylon rode with a
short section of rubberized chain and a Fortress) so I'd like to avoid that.

Thanks for any advice or thoughts you may have!

Best,
Tom

---
Snow Goose
'73 C&C 35-1
City Island, NY
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Stus-List Was Offshore boat, now Good Sailing Books

2019-04-26 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
Hi Al,

I too have enjoyed Kretschmer's books. On his recommendation, and to
your point about sailing in Puget Sound, have you read PASSAGE TO
JUNEAU by Jonathan Raban? Simply sublime. READY ABOUT by G. Peabody
Gardner was another great read focusing on Maine and Nova Scotia.

Anyone else have any must-read sailing book suggestions?

Thanks,
Tom

--
Snow Goose
35-1
City Island, NY

-- Forwarded message --
From: Allan Hester 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2019 14:34:09 +
Subject: Stus-List Offshore boat



A very interesting thread with some excellent comments and insight.

I enjoy reading offshore cruising books by such people as John
Kretschmer which stir my imagination, so the thought of taking my C&C
35 Mk 3 offshore is in the back of my mind. A cruise down the coast to
San Francisco, San Diego and eventually to south america and/or to
Hawaii would be fabulous but in reality its not likely to happen.

Preparing the boat and learning all the necessary skills would be a
tall order. In the meantime I would be missing out on cruising one of
the most beautiful cruising areas in the world.
>From Puget Sound to the BC Caost, west coast of Vancouver island and Alaska I 
>think I will have enough to keep me busy and interested for decades.

I like what Josh had to say, "I say buy the boat that fits where you
are sailing now.  Not where you think you will be sailing in the
future."
Very well said Josh.

I agree with that sentiment. For me and my needs a C&C 35 is ideal.
Its a fine sailing boat, she carries 80 US gallons of water and with a
few jerry jugs I can easily carry 40 gallons of fuel.
She is outfitted with solar panels, Espar heater, sound sytem and
other creature comforts to extend the sailing season and be
comfortable at anchor. At 35 feet I am more likely to find a slip in
a marina during peak season than a larger vessel and the costs of
running a 35 foot boat are considerably less than a larger boat. The
C&C 35 works for me.

On a related side note there is a 76 year young British woman named
Jeanne Socrates currently on her 2nd solo, non-stop circumnavigation.
She completed her 1st at the age of 70 and holds the record as the
oldest female to have done so. She hails from Victoria, BC and is
expected to complete her journey in early July. She maintains an
excellent blog and does interviews while at sea. She is currently
south of Australia and 18,000 NM into her trip. If interested her
website and blog are here:

https://svnereida.com/

Al H.
C&C 35 Mk 3
Pacific Ranger
Vancouver, BC

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Re: Stus-List Marine Surveyor (NYC, Westchester, SW Connecticut Area) (Edd Schillay)

2019-04-17 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
Hi Edd,

Tom Delco  / (914) 421-0921  Eastern Marine
Surveyors in White Plains. He was very thorough when going over Snow Goose
with me.

Best,
Tom

On Wed, Apr 17, 2019 at 9:46 AM  wrote:

> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Edd Schillay 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2019 09:37:31 -0400
> Subject: Stus-List Marine Surveyor (NYC, Westchester, SW Connecticut Area)
> Listers,
>
> Can anyone recommend a good, but inexpensive, marine surveyor in the New
York / Lower Connecticut area?
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY
>
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>
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Stus-List 2019 Defender Warehouse Sale

2019-03-22 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
The sale pricing goes live at defender.com on Wednesday, 3/27, at 2pm
ET. Full details are buried at the bottom of this link:

https://www.defender.com/warehouse-sale19.html

Best,
Tom

--
Snow Goose
35-1
City Island, NY

On Mar 21, 2019, at 5:37 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List
 wrote:

I thought it started Thursday???  Dave

PS- Will I see you there at the line area?

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT


On Mar 21, 2019, at 5:03 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
 wrote:

Defender Warehouse sale starts Wednesday.  Don’t buy it until then.
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix

2019-02-06 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
Hi Matthew,

I love the idea of having a more structurally sound bedding material
for the backing plates. This is probably a stupid question - would the
microballoon mixture be a replacement for the 4200? Or is there a way
to bed the plates with the microballoon mixture, get the them back up
again without ruining the new surface, and bed again with a layer of
4200?

Thanks,
Tom

On Wed, Feb 6, 2019 at 12:00 PM  wrote:

> -- Forwarded message --
> From: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
> To: 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2019 11:12:40 -0500
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix
> Instead of merely using 4200 to bed the backing plates, you may want to 
> consider first bedding them in a microballoon mixture (like West System with 
> colloidal silica).  This will eliminate high spots and spread the load on the 
> backing plates more evenly.

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Re: Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix

2019-02-06 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
Thank you Joe and Neil, I've written to you both off-list.

Edd, I'd love to see you out there for some weekend racing! I'll work
on your suggestions right after I finish talking to the sailmaker
about incorporating a few "speed holes" into the new #1.

All best,
Tom

--
Snow Goose
35-1
City Island, NY

On Wed, Feb 6, 2019 at 10:54 AM  wrote:

> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Edd Schillay 
> To: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2019 10:53:13 -0500
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix
> Tom,
>
> Speaking solely as someone who may be racing against you this season, suggest 
> you swap out the stainless steel backing plates with plastic, caulk with 
> cream cheese and torque to about 50%.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY
>
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

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Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix

2019-02-06 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
Hi  listers,

First of- thanks for all of your suggestions for rebuilding my navtec
backstay adjuster. It was serviced by a shop in Oyster Bay, NY and the
local rigger (Jeff Lazar, whom I can't recommend enough) handled the
removal and reinstall. So, onto the next project!

I've been buying tools as I need them for projects, and this spring I'm
going to make sure my keep is securely attached to the boat.

Obviously I'll need a torque wrench, a socket, and an extension for the
forward bolt at the mast. Does anyone know offhand what size bolt is in the
35-1? Otherwise I'll add calipers to the list of tools.

The nuts and bolts are rust free, and the PO replaced the iron washers with
stainless backing plates. I can see they were bedded with a some caulking.
I am going to remove the nuts, one by one, clean and rebed the backing
plates with 4200, and bring the bolts to somewhere below the final torque
setting for a few days before the finishing the torquing to 100%.

Once that is done and it warms up, I am going to address the leading edge
of the keel with gflex, fair it, and paint the bottom.

Am I missing anything obvious in the bolt torquing procedure?

Thanks,
Tom

---
Snow Goose
35-1
City Island, NY
___

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Stus-List 35-1 Rudder Stop Design Changeover Point

2019-01-29 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
It probably doesn't help narrow it down that much, but Snow Goose (#173)
has the vertical structure like in Russ' photo.

This thread has made me realize I should spend a day shooting photos of
every inch of the boat at some point.

All best,
Tom

Snow Goose
35-1
City Island, NY

On Tue, Jan 29, 2019 at 1:49 PM  wrote:

> -- Forwarded message --
> From: "Dennis C." 
> To: CnClist 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2019 12:40:06 -0600
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Touche' steering system rebuild - update 1
> Yep.  I wonder what hull number they made the design change?  touche' is
> #83.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Tue, Jan 29, 2019 at 10:54 AM schiller via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Dennis,
>>
>> Looks very similar to what was on Corsair, Hull #7.
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1sTBZGtbZlym6_0Iw0S5DZOiWYHahCVI7
>>
>> Neil Schiller
>> 1983 C&C 35-3, #028. "Grace"
>> Whitehall, Michigan
>> WLYC
>>
>> On 1/29/2019 9:20 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> The original post is below.
>>
>> My buddy has the pedestal and associated parts for stripping and painting
>> with AwlGrip.  Aircraft stripper does indeed remove powder coat.
>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1OgW3dWk9fqRkoQwowu_fwg5fGehKcd_g
>>
>> A local rigging shop is duplicating the wire rope cable for me.  The
>> fitting on the end of the cable that attaches to the chain is apparently
>> called a chain eye as opposed to a marine eye or aircraft eye.
>>
>> There seems to be a major change in the rudder stop design.  Touche' is
>> Hull 83.
>>
>> Thanks to Russ, I have a good example of what a rudder stop should look
>> like.  Note the strong vertical structural member with gussets.  The two
>> plates mounted to the bottom of the quadrant stop against aluminum plates
>> with rubber cushions on either side of the vertical structural member.
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_9BPN1H7YXs586x93QLT8saZVIKJxDSr
>>
>> Unfortunately, Touche' only has a thin gusset for the rudder tube:
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jaJX92DAx9vOgV2TWk-fchKrc3k3Zj2h
>>
>> One other difference is that Touche's quadrant is installed upside down
>> from the one on Russ' boat.  Go figure.  That doesn't seem to be a big
>> deal.  The plates will just have to be mounted on the top of the quadrant.
>>
>> I am going to have to install a vertical structural member.  Still
>> finalizing the design but it will be similar to Russ' boat.  Going to be
>> very uncomfortable working in there.
>>
>> I'm thinking about bonding 3 pieces of marine ply together with the
>> middle piece shorter so the thing slips down over the existing rudder post
>> gusset.  I can then through bolt it in place and then tab it to the hull.
>> I will probably also make it with the athwartships gussets in place so all
>> I need do is tab them to the hull.  The gussets are extremely important due
>> to the side loading of the stops.  The more I do outside the space the
>> easier it will be.
>>
>> I won't start the job until March after I return from skiing.  I'll
>> document the process and provide a link.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>>
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Stus-List Soft shackles in action

2018-11-07 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
Sorry John, it never occurred to me to take good photos of the soft
shackles in action. I have a photo that shows them on a delivery jib in
May, but none with the racing sails.

I ended up using the same two shackles for all of my headsails across the
wind range - had no problems with them in 20+ kts on a #3 or <5 kts on the
light #1.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/x4UBmqaQN6WxSC3g9

Best,
Tom

-- 
Snow Goose
35-1
City Island, NY


-- Forwarded message --
From: John Conklin 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2018 21:25:20 +
Subject: Re: Stus-List Shackle for Genoa Sheets?

So with the soft Shackle ( which I use for tying off to the mid toerail
 and works amazing even in Florence! ) what size line ? (Dyneema?) Is best
for the  head sail on  a 37,  and are you using a splice on the sheet? If
tying a knot for soft shackle why Knot just tie sheet to clew  ? Any one
have any pics of the softees in action on the genny  sheets?



Thanks !



John  C

S/V Halcyon

Oriental NC
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Re: Stus-List Shackle for Genoa Sheets?

2018-11-07 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
Hi Edd,

I used a single set of homemade soft shackles all season long. I bought a
set of fids and a 100ft spool of 4mm UHMWPE cord on Amazon, and spent the
winter making dozens of them. I tried two different styles and ended up
like the one at the following link the best http://l-36.com/soft_shackle_howto.php> I'll bring a handful to the EBYRA
brunch so you can check them out.

As everyone is saying, they haven't hung on the shrouds at all and have
been a huge improvement in simplicity.

Best,
Tom

-- 
Snow Goose
35-1
City Island, NY

-- Forwarded message --
From: WILLIAM WALKER 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2018 16:21:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List Shackle for Genoa Sheets?

Ditto soft shackle.. Make your own, good winter evening project...plenty of
videos on line.
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi.
(Winter Cincinnati, Ohio)

Bill Walker
--
On Wednesday, November 7, 2018 Richard Bush via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Edd, I went to the "soft shackle" last year and love it...I have have not
had a single (not one) line hang on the shrouds using the soft shackle...I
have been pleased with the lack of maintenance required also...;

Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River Mile 596:

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Sent: Wed, Nov 7, 2018 3:57 pm
Subject: Stus-List Shackle for Genoa Sheets?

Listers,

Does anyone use a shackle for their genoa sheets instead of a knot? If so,
how big? What type? What kind of breaking strength?

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
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Stus-List Navtec Backstay (IA-10) - Rebuild or Replacement?

2018-10-04 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
Hi Listers,

My backstay adjuster is losing all tension if I leave it set below ~1,000
lbs for a few days. It holds fine when I'm onboard and sailing, it seems to
happen overnight, when the boat is on the mooring. The adjuster is an old
Navtec IA-10 unit. There is no noticeable fluid leaking from either end of
the adjuster and the piston is in good shape with no nicks or scratches.

Can anyone suggest a rigger/hydraulic repair shop in the NYC area that
could handle rebuilding it? Or is the unit so old that I should consider
replacing it with a new hydraulic adjuster or some sort of cascading block
contraption?

The boat is primarily raced around the buoys, so being able to reproduce
settings quickly and accurately is the most important feature for me.

Thanks,
Tom

Snow Goose
35-1
City Island, NY
-- 
---
Thomas C. Delaney
917-337-5524
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Re: Stus-List years a C&C owner

2018-09-28 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
I bought Snow Goose, a 1973 35-1, two years ago. When I was in college a
decade ago I used to crew on a CS 36T in the weeknight beercan series. Snow
Goose was in our division, but you'd never guess we were on the same race
course. I got to know the sillouhette of her shrinking transom very well...

I'm the third owner but the precious owner, who was a local racing legend
and operator of a boatyard, kept the boat in great shape. I'm planning on
keeping the boat for a long time.

Best,
Tom

Snow Goose
C&C 35-1
City Island, NY

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Howard
and Skippy via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2018 9:37 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Howard and Skippy
Subject: Stus-List years a C&C owner

Hello Al,
I have a question for the list.
How many of you have owned your current C&C yacht for 5 years or longer.

I bought Knot Again in 1993 and have owned her for 25 years.
Howard Paul, 35-3
-- 
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917-337-5524
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Stus-List 35-1 V-Berth Hatch

2018-06-04 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
Hi Listers,

I lost one of the three hinge pins from the hatch over the v-berth. Does
anyone know who made the original hatches for the 35-1? I thought it was an
Atkins and Hoyle hatch but I haven't been able to find any photos/diagrams
of their hatches that match what I've got, or any replacement parts from
their website that look like they would fit.

Thanks,
Tom


-- 
---
Thomas C. Delaney
917-337-5524
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Re: Stus-List Parallel Batteries -- Double the Ah, but Double the CCA too??? (Edd Schillay)

2018-04-30 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
Hi Edd,

CCA, AH, and reserve capacity double if you put the batteries in parallel.
Here is the documentation from East Penn I used to set up my MPPT to work
with my AGMs, it has lots of useful battery information:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QU0dr-iThbbhymUEX4F8EV9e9t1QWiWr/view?usp=drivesdk


Best,
Tom

On Mon, Apr 30, 2018, 5:18 PM  wrote:

> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Edd Schillay 
> To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2018 17:07:50 -0400
> Subject: Stus-List Parallel Batteries -- Double the Ah, but Double the CCA
> too???
> Listers,
>
> If you put two 12V batteries in parallel, I know you double the amp-hours.
> But does that also double the CCA?
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
> CnC-List mailing list
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
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917-337-5524
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Re: Stus-List New Sheets - What kind of line?

2018-03-22 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
Thanks, everyone, for your input! I might go slightly bigger on the jib
sheets, but worry that a thicker line wouldn't work well with my mainsheet
winch. Anything will feel nicer to handle than the current sheets.

Dennis - I was only going to splice an eye at one end and whip the other
but you make a great case for having eyes at both ends and being able to
flip ends.

Like Dennis' setup, I am planning on using two soft shackles  to reeve the
sheets to my headsail. The Stingy Sailor post inspired me to buy  a set of
fids and a whole spool of 5/32" UHMWPE a few weeks ago. As a result I ended
up with a pile of 30 soft shackles (
https://photos.app.goo.gl/0N7BRteov5LhP0JE3). We'll see how well they hold
up over the season.

Thanks again,
Tom

---
Snow Goose
C&C 35-1
City Island, NY

-- Forwarded message --
From: "Dennis C." 
To: CnClist 
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2018 13:40:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Sheets - What kind of line?
My opinion, soft shackle release is highly unlikely.  I've never heard of
one.  Been using them for 4-5 years now.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 1:29 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Dennis
>
>
>
> Your soft shackle sheet connection looks very interesting.  I wonder if a
> flogging sail during a messy tack might result in a soft shackle
> releasing.  Any thoughts?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax
>
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Stus-List New Sheets - What kind of line?

2018-03-22 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
Hi listers,

I'm planning on buying new sheets during the Defender Sale. We're a novice
club-racing boat most of the time, but also do short trips around western
long island sound.

I've got old polyester core/cover sheets now, and will continue using them
with my cruising headsails, but I'm thinking of getting Samson XLS Extra-T
in the same diameter as i have now (3/8") to replace the mainsheet, and for
my racing headsails. Is there any other type of line I should consider
before pulling the trigger?

Thanks,
Tom

---
Snow Goose
C&C 35-1
City Island, NY
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Stus-List First Haul Out/ Winter Layup

2017-10-16 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
Hi Listers,

I'm hauling out for the first time on Wednesday. Any tips for someone who
is new to the whole operation? Are there any last minute things I should do
while the boat is in the water? Anything I should do as soon as the boat
comes out that aren't covered on the winterizing checklist?
(I'm using the list at
http://cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/winterizing/winterizing.htm)

Thanks,
Tom
-- 
---
Thomas C. Delaney
917-337-5524
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Re: Stus-List Northstar Explorer S310 Paddlewheel Axle

2017-07-24 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
Hank, Fred, Bruce, and any I missed,

Thanks for your suggestions. I was able to source steel rod from Amazon,
and after a lot of trial and error found that the correct outer diameter
was .079 inches. After that, it was a piece of cake to clip it to the
appropriate length and put the transducer back together again.

Thanks again for your help,

Tom

 ---
Snow Goose
C&C 35-1
City Island, NY

-- Forwarded message --
From: henry evans 
To: Thomas Delaney via CnC-List 
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2017 10:08:54 + (UTC)
Subject: Re: Stus-List Northstar Explorer S310 Paddlewheel Axle
Tom,

If worse comes to worse, try your local hobby shop.  They usually stock
both brass and stainless rod in a variety  of small diameters for
hobbyists. Cut it to the length you need for your axel..

Cheers,

Hank


On Friday, June 30, 2017, 9:31:48 PM CDT, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Hi Listers,

A well intentioned crew member tried to remove my speed transducer from the
hull this evening and managed to lose the pin that holds the paddlewheel in
the transducer. It is a Northstar Explorer S310. I have the paddlewheel,
and just need that axle. Does anyone know where to source something like
that?

Thanks,
Tom


-- 
---
Thomas C. Delaney
917-337-5524 <(917)%20337-5524>
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Stus-List Northstar Explorer S310 Paddlewheel Axle

2017-06-30 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
Hi Listers,

A well intentioned crew member tried to remove my speed transducer from the
hull this evening and managed to lose the pin that holds the paddlewheel in
the transducer. It is a Northstar Explorer S310. I have the paddlewheel,
and just need that axle. Does anyone know where to source something like
that?

Thanks,
Tom


-- 
---
Thomas C. Delaney
917-337-5524
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Re: Stus-List C&C 35 MK I engine survey (Della Barba, Joe)

2017-06-19 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
Hi Joe,

Snow Goose was repowered with a 2GM20F. From what I can tell, it fit on the
standard engine bed, but the engine cover and the structure on the
starboard side were modified slightly to make room for the secondary fuel
filter. The boat has a two blade folding prop, but I'm unsure of the
brand/pitch/important details. The boat does have the original strut.

Here is a link to a photo of the prop and strut, and another of the engine:

*https://goo.gl/photos/wNJ3CQjH4jpaGowN8
 *

https://goo.gl/photos/8wFuKoP6Cqj645U59

I can get better photos of the engine bay and the cutout in the engine
cover if its helpful later in the week.

Best,
Tom

On Mon, Jun 19, 2017 at 11:24 AM  wrote:

> Today's Topics:
>
>4.  C&C 35 MK I engine survey (Della Barba, Joe)
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2017 15:23:14 +
> Subject: Stus-List C&C 35 MK I engine survey
>
> For everyone that has a diesel engine retrofit:
>
> 1.   What engine?
>
> 2.   Did it fit on the standard engine bed?
>
> 3.   What prop?
>
> 4.   Are you using the original strut?
>
> THANKS
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
> ___
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917-337-5524
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Stus-List Tuning the Mast?

2017-05-02 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
Hi Listers,

I'm hoping to head to the boat yard tonight to find I've been splashed!
This weekend I'm going to have to tune the rig, and have no idea of what
that should look like on a 35-1. I had a guide for tuning the j24 I used to
sail. Are there any similar guides, or even general rules of thumb, for
tuning the C&C?

Thanks,
Tom

 ---
Snow Goose
C&C 35 Mk I
City Island, NY
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Re: Stus-List Drilling a Hole in the Hull

2017-04-07 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
Damian,

That is a great idea, and while obvious in hindsight, never occured to me
before you mentioned it! Thanks!

Best,
Tom

On Thu, Apr 6, 2017, 7:52 PM  wrote:

-- Forwarded message --
> From: Damian Greene 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2017 19:14:59 + (UTC)
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Drilling a Hole in the Hull
> Tom,
>
> Maybe stating the obvious, but I would try drilling a test hole in a piece
> of scrap plywood, to test out getting a snug fit. It's not easy to change
> the size of the hole once drilled :-)
>
> Damian
>
> C&C 34 GHOST
> Bass Harbor, Maine
>
> --
> *From:* Sam Salter via CnC-List 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Sam Salter 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, April 5, 2017 6:18 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Drilling a Hole in the Hull
>
> Using tape and starting in reverse to drill a neat hole through gel coat
> is good advice.
> Depending on where you drill, you might get balsa core, especially above
> the waterline  (not sure if the 35 has a cored hull)
> I don't think silicone has any place on a boat. I'd use Sikaflex. (I'm not
> keen on butyl either‎ - my deck to hull joint is butyl and it drips
> everywhere!)
> ‎Why a 1 1/4" hole for a 1 1/8" fitting?
>
> sam :-)
> C&C 26 Liquorice
> Ghost Lake Alberta
>
>   Original Message
> From: Steve Thomas via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, April 5, 2017 10:59 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Steve Thomas
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Drilling a Hole in the Hull
>
> 3M 4200 will work, but if the fitting is plastic, chances are you will be
> replacing it again someday. 4200 is not as difficult as 5200, but neither
> is easy to remove. Above the waterline through hulls are the only place
> that I use silicone. Polysulfide (Life Caulk) would probably work, but
> there is a caution about its use with plastics, and I don't know why. All
> of the plastic tank vent through hulls, the shower through hull, and the
> electric bilge through hulls needed replacement on my C&C36. Southern
> sunshine!
>
> Steve Thomas
>
>  Thomas Delaney via CnC-List  wrote:
> Hi listers,
>
> Thanks, everyone, for your advice on the solar charging system and ACR.
> Onto the next project!
>
> I'm going to be drilling a hole in the hull to install a
> well-above-the-waterline thruhull for a bilge pump discharge hose. The
> thruhull is 1 1/8" inch, so I'm going to use a 1 1/4" hole saw drill bit.
> I'm going to seal it with 3m 4200. Does this plan make sense? Are there any
> surprises to expect?
>
> Thanks,
> Tom
>
> ---
> Snow Goose
> C&C 35 Mk I
> City Island, NY
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
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917-337-5524
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Re: Stus-List Drilling a Hole in the Hull (Sam Salter)

2017-04-05 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
Sam,

Actually, your question is something I would like to hear the list's
thoughts on. I've read that you should drill the hole a size larger than
the thruhull, but I have no idea if that is best practice or not. Should I
be drilling the hole the same size as the thruhull, or should it be a
little larger?

Best,
Tom

---
Snow Goose
C&C 35 Mk I
City Island, NY

-- Forwarded message --
From: Sam Salter 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2017 11:17:10 -0600
Subject: Re: Stus-List Drilling a Hole in the Hull
Using tape and starting in reverse to drill a neat hole through gel coat is
good advice.
Depending on where you drill, you might get balsa core, especially above
the waterline  (not sure if the 35 has a cored hull)
I don't think silicone has any place on a boat. I'd use Sikaflex. (I'm not
keen on butyl either‎ - my deck to hull joint is butyl and it drips
everywhere!)
‎Why a 1 1/4" hole for a 1 1/8" fitting?

sam :-)
C&C 26 Liquorice
Ghost Lake Alberta
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Stus-List Drilling a Hole in the Hull

2017-04-05 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
Hi listers,

Thanks, everyone, for your advice on the solar charging system and ACR.
Onto the next project!

I'm going to be drilling a hole in the hull to install a
well-above-the-waterline thruhull for a bilge pump discharge hose. The
thruhull is 1 1/8" inch, so I'm going to use a 1 1/4" hole saw drill bit.
I'm going to seal it with 3m 4200. Does this plan make sense? Are there any
surprises to expect?

Thanks,
Tom

 ---
Snow Goose
C&C 35 Mk I
City Island, NY
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 134, Issue 78

2017-03-22 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
Edd, Bruce,

Thank you both, your suggestions are very helpful. The BlueSea ACR will do
exactly what I need.

I had never considered mounting a panel on the hatch, and leaving the boom
off center. Do you happen to have any photos of this setup? I love the idea
of the panel being completely out of the way while sailing and easily setup
when leaving the boat.

Best,
Tom

---
Snow Goose
C&C 35 Mk I
City Island, NY

-- Forwarded message --
From: Bruce Whitmore 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2017 11:22:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List Basic Solar Charging System?
On our 27 MKIII we mounted a semi flexible pane that could be walked on to
the sliding hatch and tied in a small charge controller and battery
combiner.  We kept 2 series 24s and a series 27 charged on a mooring in
Chicago for 10 years this way.  It kept the panel out of the way and we
just tied the boom off to one side when we left the boat.

Kindest Regards,

Bruce
847.404.5092 <(847)%20404-5092>

Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.

On Mar 22, 2017, at 10:37 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Tom,

Sounds like a good system. The only different thing I have in my setup is a
Blue Seas ACR instead of the Echo charger. See:
https://www.bluesea.com/products/7610/SI-ACR_Automatic_Charging_Relay_-_12_24V_DC_120A


Works VERY well.

Another factor is the placement of the solar panel. A shadow from a boom
will give you a significant drop in volts.

Smith sailing to Snow Goose! Rest in Peace Artie Karpf.

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 

-- 
---
Thomas C. Delaney
917-337-552
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Stus-List Basic Solar Charging System?

2017-03-22 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
Hi Listers,

Snow Goose spent the last 20 years docked in a slip with shore power, and
I'm moving her to a mooring. I plan on adding a solar system to recharge my
batteries during the week.

The boat will primarily be raced/daysailed, and occasionally overnighted,
on the weekends. My power draws are an automatic bilge pump, sailing
instruments, a chart plotter, and the freshwater tank pressure pump. I have
two 79AH Group 24 AGM batteries onboard, one in each bank, wired to a 4 way
selector switch.

My plan is to install a 50W 12V Monocrystalline Solar Panel connected to a
BlueSolar MPPT 75/15 controller, and connect them to the house battery. I
am planning on installing a Xantrex Echo Charger between the house battery
and the starter battery.

Does this system make sense? I've read mixed reviews about the Echo
Charger, but I can't find a better way of charging two batteries from a
single panel/MPPT controller. Is there a different setup that makes more
sense?

Thanks and best,
Tom

 ---
Snow Goose
C&C 35 Mk I
City Island, NY
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List New (old) C&C 35 Mk I - Water Ingress

2017-02-12 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
Randy, Neil, Bill,

Thank you all for the advice. I've marked the hull with a washable marker
and will check for water next weekend. The mast is in, and it hadn't
crossed my mind that the water was coming through it. I'll add replacing
the mast boot and installing a garboard drain to my list of projects.

Thanks again,
Tom

---
Snow Goose
C&C 35 Mk I
City Island, NY
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List New (old) C&C 35 Mk I - Water Ingress

2017-02-12 Thread Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
Hello listers,

In December I finalized the purchase of my first keelboat, a C&C 35 Mk I,
after receiving an extremely thorough and detailed list of items to survey
from Joe Della Barba. Joe, thanks again for your help!

The previous owner of the boat was a local racing legend who ran a marina
near Glen Island, NY. He had been giving me advice on readying the boat for
her new life on a mooring after spending the last four decades in a slip
adjacent to his houseboat. Unfortunately, he passed away last weekend.

One of the questions I had yet to broach was the accumulation of water in
the bilge. The boat has been on the hard, shrinkwrapped, for three years.
I've been pumping the bilge dry every two-four weeks, and it seems to be
about 2-4 gallons of water as measured by a big plastic bucket. I'm not
sure where the water is coming from. Apart from the bilge, water is pooling
in the forward-most storage compartment under the port settee. My first
instinct is to have a friend on deck hold the screws on the toerails and
stanchion bases while I slightly tighten the nuts below deck and see if the
water ingress stops. Does that make sense? Is there a different, better
course of action I should take at this time? Does anyone know offhand what
size socket I'll need?

Thanks in advance,
Tom

---
Snow Goose
C&C 35 Mk I
City Island, NY
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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