Re: Stus-List Jacklines/Harnesses/Tethers

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Agreed (don't go over), but if you do fall in the water, don't wear a PFD
that won't help...

On Wed, Mar 29, 2017 at 7:36 AM, BillBinaList via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If you are being dragged in the water, you are probably dead, or soon to
> be regardless of being face up or face down, or if the boat gets turned
> around and manages to even locate you. Set up your jacklines, etc, as if
> the water is really molten lava. Chances of recovery of someone who goes
> overboard with a full crew aboard are statistically VERY low no matter
> what, and if you are a single-hander, then your chances are essentially
> non-existent. Plan accordingly.
>
> Bill Bina
>
> On 3/29/2017 7:22 AM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Just a thought on the foam pfd's; if they are water ski/kayak activity
> vests, they probably won't keep you face up if you are unconscious (and not
> being dragged through the water by the jacklines).
>
> Tim
> Ex 35/3
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Jacklines/Harnesses/Tethers

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Just a thought on the foam pfd's; if they are water ski/kayak 
activity vests, they probably won't keep you face up if you are unconscious 
(and not being dragged through the water by the jacklines).
TimEx 35/3









On Wed, Mar 29, 2017 at 6:46 AM -0400, "Graham Young via CnC-List" 
 wrote:










Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread.  Your sharing of your 
experience and expertise is much appreciated.  I know it's what we do here but 
thanks just the same :) 

On Monday, March 27, 2017 3:48 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 wrote:
  

 

 




+ 1 on what Joe said.
 
If you read on the topic, most people (at least those who have some experience) 
agree that you should treat the toe rail as a 200 m cliff. The idea is not how 
to get back to the boat, but how to make sure that you never leave it.
 
Marek


 









___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


 




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List C&C 35-3 0.5oz spinnaker

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

As you are all getting ready for racing in the Spring, I thought I would
share that I still have a North Sails S1.5 (1/2oz VMG) Airex spinnaker that
I need to sell.  It was purchased in April 2015 for over $4,000, hoisted
twice before I parted with my 35-3 and is for sale for $1,000 (plus
shipping from Newport, RI).

Luff is 45.8'; max width 24.5'

Please let me know if you're interested.

Many thanks,

Tim
(ex 35-3 owner, and still listening to those C&C stories...)
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Input on inflatable dinghy purchase

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Bob,
I used to have a 35-3, and had some "davits lite", whereby the side tube of the 
dinghy rested on some curved brackets that were attached by u-bolts to the 
stern rails.  We had a 9' WM wood floor / inflatable keel on them.  I no longer 
have the boat, but do have the brackets,  if they are any use to you rather 
than the beckoning dumpster (we are nearby in Newport).
Limitations; you need to remove the engine (the dinghy is stored on its side), 
and we never used them when sailing (the tubes ends could hit the water when 
heeled), but much easier end-of-day out-of-water storage than hoisting on deck 
or deflating.
I will also have a 10' Novurania RIB and trailer for sale in September, but I 
don't think that will fit...
Tim




On Wed, Mar 1, 2017 at 3:26 PM -0500, "Bob McLaughlin via CnC-List" 
 wrote:










Relocating our C&C 110 from a Midwest lake where I had no need for a tender to 
now sailing on Narragansett Bay, LI Sound, Buzzard's Bay, Vineyard and 
Nantucket Sounds, etc, I'm in need of a basic inflatable to serve as a tender 
in harbors without a launch service.  I've used them many times on charters but 
never really paid much attention to detail.  
I'm looking for something relatively compact for 2-4 people that is easy to set 
up and collapse and stow, so I think that's best a roll-up.  Early in my 
thinking, I'm eyeing something like the 8'6" Achillies LSI-260: 4 person 
capacity/820lbs, Hypalon, overall weight 64 lbs, inflatable floor, with perhaps 
a ~4-5HP outboard. (Or maybe the 9'6" or 10'2" LSI versions of the same 
design..) I don't think I need a boat to plane, just basic transportation.  No 
davits, it will either be towed or stowed.
I welcome input from those of you with inflatable experience to share your 
thoughts on brands, material, features, design, size, etc.  What factors should 
I be considering as I make my selection?
Regards,Bob McLaughlinC&C 110 "Blue Devil" 








___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Raymarine Gadgets and Gizmos

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Chuck, if you do decide to replace the transducers, give me a call.  I have 
done several of those recently, and it's not such a big deal, and I have a 
drill rig that will make it easier.
TimEx 35-3Newport, RI






On Wed, Feb 1, 2017 at 2:12 PM -0500, "Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List" 
 wrote:












Fred,

Another question regarding data input to Raymarine instruments eg. SeaTalk Ng.  
I’m still sporting perfectly functional bulkhead mount Datamarine speed and 
depth instruments (with associated transducers) on Half Magic but use a new 
helm mounted ES-70 MFD.  I understand that Raymarine makes a gadget called an 
iTC-5 which serves to convert analog data from transducers to Sea Talk 
protocols.  I’m thinking of replacing the Datamarine displays with a new I-70S 
for wind, speed, and depth and via the iTC-5, using existing transducers (being 
analog and all).   That said, is the connection to the iTC-5 unique to 
Raymarine transducers or is the input somewhat more “universal” in nature?

I’m really looking to avoid removing any through hull transducers if at all 
possible, knowing the potential for leaks and possible cored hull issues when 
carving the old transducer from the bonds of 3M 5200..

We’ve run a SeaTalk backbone through the boat when the MFD was installed to 
facilitate later upgrades.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 LF 35

Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 1, 2017 11:35 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine announcement: wireless gateway

 

It looks like the intent is to allow you to freely mix wireless sensor data 
with i50/i60/i70 displays:

 

The Micro-Talk Gateway enables performance-minded sailors to take advantage of 
the enhanced accuracy and installation convenience offered by Raymarine’s 
wireless, solar-powered wind transmitter options. Now it’s possible to use 
these ultra-lightweight and highly accurate sensors with Raymarine i60, i70 and 
i70s Instrument systems. 

 

 

— Fred

 


Frederick G Street

13925 277th Ave NW

Zimmerman MN   55398

 

f...@postaudio.net

612.839.6565 cell

 

On Feb 1, 2017, at 10:28 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

Fred,

 

It's about time!  Hopefully that means they will update the wireless instrument 
displays too.

 

I wonder if you can use a wireless transducer and a current edition​ display 
with the new box.  That would be cool!

 

Joel

 




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Mast Down - Need guidance on replacement of VHF cabling & antenna

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

There are some differences in LMR400 that you need to look out for.  Most 
importantly, it comes in both 50 and 75 ohm impedance ratings.  You need the 50 
ohm version.  Secondly, regular LMR400 is pretty stiff, so if you need it to 
turn somewhat sharp corners (at the masthead / mast base) then you could opt 
for the "Ultraflex", which is a little thicker, but easier to handle.  The 
connectors you need are PL-259.  I prefer the crimp on versions, but you should 
ideally use a specific crimp due set, which may not be worth getting for a 
couple of connections.
Thanks,
Tim(Ex 35-3)





On Sun, Jan 15, 2017 at 5:18 PM -0500, "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" 
 wrote:










Pete — I did this last spring; and I’m one of the ones you’re “hearing” about 
LMR-400 cable.  LMR-400 has tight specs, so you’re likely seeing different 
variations in connectors or manufacturers; but all the LMR-400 cable should be 
identical in performance, with the exception of the highly-flexible variant 
(UF) and direct-burial (DB — which you shouldn’t need for the boat — if you do, 
you have bigger issues to deal with…).
You can purchase the cable raw and get the field-installable non-solder Times 
Microwave EZ-400-UM connectors.  These are easy to install; not quite as simple 
as the Shakespeare Center-pin connectors that Dennis mentioned, but Shakespeare 
doesn’t make connectors for LMR-400.  The other thing you can do (what I did in 
my case) is to make the hole in the mast large enough for the PL-259 
connectors; then use a Cable Clam as strain relief and to provide weather 
protection to the large hole.  This worked great; and I ordered the LMR-400 
cable pre-terminated on Amazon by these guys, who build to MIL-SPEC: 
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Antenna-Genuine-Transmission-Connector/dp/B005DUXWMU/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1484518381&sr=8-25&keywords=lmr-400.
  They can make whatever length you need.
For VHF antennas, the Metz and GAM are popular; I went with a Digital Antenna 
222-VW antenna: http://www.digitalantenna.com/prods/vhfantenna_3.html
— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


On Jan 15, 2017, at 12:19 PM, kelly petew via CnC-List  
wrote:
Belated HNY, Listers,I am having the standing rigging [rod] on my '91 30-2 
re-done [hopefully, re-headed]. 
Now that the mast is down, I am looking to replacement of all the wiring and 
running rigging. Regarding the VHF cabling, I am "hearing" that "LMR-400" is 
superior to other alternatives. So, I checked Amazon and, of course, found 
"LMR-400", but there appear to be several varieties to choose from.Or, perhaps, 
it's simply different terminal fittings on the same cable.  I can't tell.In any 
event, I would appreciate any feedback on which cabling to use.  I need about 
44 ft.
And also, any thoughts on installation "best practices".  It would seem I'll 
need to cut one end in order to get it up the mast.  Does this make sense? I 
would prefer NOT to have to cut and re-solder, but that seems to be 
unavoidable. Also, should I replace the interior cabling -- from the mast to 
the radio -- as well? 
And finally, any thoughts on the best antenna to use?
Thanks
Pete W. Siren SongC&C 30-2Deltaville, Va.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!





___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1983 fuel tank. Stuffing box and windows

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Andy, Pete,
I'm currently working in a building on the Hinckley campus (in marine 
electronics).  If you need anything checking out any time you're away from the 
yard, let me know (or assists with deliveries, Andy).  I am C&C-less now, but 
have very fond memories of my 35-3.
Best wishes,
Tim






On Fri, Jan 6, 2017 at 11:26 AM -0500, "PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List" 
 wrote:










Thanks Andy
I won't leave till May 2017 hopefully just trying to get as many ducks in a  
row bc I can only make it down there monthly I will be back there to just make 
sure tarps in place green blue white. Red neck style  
next planned trip the weekend  of Jan 28
It is at NEB all the way in the back  right side taking road straight back next 
to some hull molds and beside a beneteau as of now. Dave reish was kind enough 
to check out rudder for me 
It is avante  previously owned by r palmero owned it since 1987  but my kids 
have re named it goonie island will have it re lettered in the spring 
Sorry stuffing box was repacked  2012 not replaced.  Westerbeke 33 w v drive  
tight space to access stuffing box 
Fuel tank was 1/2 to 3/4 full prior to me filling it with fresh 20 gallons 
I would love to get your input on anything else I should do
I did do the 2 day safety at sea course there last year  so I'm trying to learn 
as much as possible 
Thanks
Peter. 207-712-2938 

Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 6, 2017, at 11:07 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hi Peter, 
Stuffing box should be fine...may need repacking.
Was the fuel tank left full? If so, you can probably get away with the fuel 
that's in there. If not, emptying the tank and filling with clean fuel is 
probably adequate. Just take plenty of spare Racor filter elements with you 
30micron, not 5micron. I'd replace the filter on the engine, too. make sure you 
know how to change the Racors without introducing air into the system. I keep a 
gallon jug of diesel handy to refill the the filter after I replace the 
element. Also, make sure you know how to bleed the engine and have the tools 
handy. Which engine do you have?
For the windows, there is lots of expertise here and the archives. 
When are you heading up to Portland? I'll be around after about Jan 20th, I 
just have to get one more boat to the Caribbean first. I'd love to have a look 
at your boat. My boat is behind the LMI building next to Hinckley and I will be 
on the cat Aqua at Hinckley most of the day on Saturday if you feel like 
stopping by to say hi.
Cheers
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine


On Fri, Jan 6, 2017 at 10:17 AM, PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Hello group



Three questions



1 My boat has sat on hard for 3 years.  Racor Fuel filter  fuel was clear red. 
Not dusky 1/2 to 3/4 full  Removed all fuel and replaced with new diesel fuel 
engine started fine.



It was suggested that I have fuel tank polished estimated cost is $570 before I 
sail the boat from Newport ri to Portland Maine



My question is it worth it or is it better just to replace original fuel tank 
with new fuel

Tank  and if so plastic or aluminum



2 Next question stuffing box was replaced by yard in 2012.   Do I need to do it 
again before launch



3 Last question. All cabin top window I have had new ones made. What is the 
best way to attach. I have seen use of 4200



Thanks



Peter




-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!





___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Sail Flaking

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

I would second support for the Dutchman system, it worked very well on my boat, 
apart from maybe the finicky mainsail cover (the same as lazy jacks if you 
don't move them before you cover the sail).

We have just changed over to lazy jacks and a stack pack sail cover because it 
wouldn't have been possible to put the cover on over the new Bimini.  Our sail 
slide stack is ~9' above the deck, so this is much easier than climbing on the 
gooseneck.

Tim

> On Dec 2, 2016, at 11:30 PM, Jim Eagon via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I've been reading this subject for a few days now, and it's interesting that 
> it doesn't look like anybody has mentioned the Dutchman Flaking System. I 
> really like mine and it works very well for flaking my sail when 
> single-handing.
> 
> They have a website you can Google and learn more about the system - it's 
> simple and works really well and doesn't seem to be a problem for cruising or 
> racing and it's never in the way. 
> 
> Fair winds and fun sailing!
> 
> Jim Eagon 
> "Trinity"
> 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 3GMD

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Howard,

You may want to review why there is pressure in the crank case pushing oil out. 
 It may not be an issue, but if it has changed, it could be that you have 
piston ring issues allowing exhaust gas blow-by.

Regards,

Tim
(ex35-3, but with a 3GM30F)

> On Nov 2, 2016, at 5:09 PM, Howard and Skippy via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello All,
> Now that the boat (35-3) is on the hard, I was able to clean the engine and 
> try to locate the source of my oil leak(s).  It appears that the culprit is 
> the dipstick! The rubber seal no longer is able to stay in place, rises up 
> and allows oil out of the crankcase when under power.  The local parts shop 
> says the oil dip stick is out of stock and not available.  Does anyone have a 
> lead on where to obtain a dipstick for a 3GMD? Thanks.
> Howard Paul, Skipper of Knot Again
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Inverter to Outlet Via Extension Cord?

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Like 'ground' systems, marine systems are required to connect neutral to ground 
at the source of power, whether that is somewhere at the top of the dock for 
shore power, or at the generator or inverter.  One of the most important 
connections at the inverter is from chassis ground to the boat's grounding bus. 
On a marine inverter, there should be a switch that opens the ground to neutral 
connection when it is providing pass-through shore power and closes it when it 
is generating AC power itself.  I presume that the WM 1kW versions have a 
neutral/ground connection within them, but it would be very worth checking!

Tim
Ex-Mojito
Newport, RI

> On Oct 24, 2016, at 2:31 PM, Michael Brown via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hopefully the inverter will come with very clear instructions on how to
> handle ground and neutral.
> 
> For normal power, ie shore power, this is the US code:
> 
> "The National Electrical Code ( NEC ) requires the AC source to have a 
> Neutral to ground bond
> and that there be only one such bond in the entire AC system."
> 
> So only at the distribution panel is there a bond between neutral and ground. 
> They should
> never be connected together intentionally at the load. This document covers 
> grounding and
> bonding, may also cure insomnia.
> 
> https://www.engineereducators.com/docs/groundingandbonding2-2.pdf
> 
> Grounding an AC system is done to limit the effect of a lightning strike, 
> maybe an upstream
> over voltage fault. Bonding the green wire that comes in a three prong plug ( 
> also called a
> ground ) to Neutral at the distribution panel is to ensure a low resistance 
> return path for
> a fault. So if anything happens the desired effect is that a hot to ground 
> short will occur
> which in turn will cause an over current surge blowing the circuit breakers.
> 
> A person can be electrocuted even with a properly installed and grounded AC 
> system
> without the circuit breakers tripping.
> 
> Unless an inverter has some specific design that uses a ground bonding the 
> Neutral and
> ground together is not going to do much. Check out the last Q&A from Xantrex 
> here:
> 
> http://www.xantrex.com/documents/tech-doctor/universal/tech4-universal.pdf
> 
> Similarly with an inverter connected to a battery that is not grounded a GFCI 
> should
> never trip. Theoretically in a floating system the power has to come out of 
> the Hot
> lead and return in the Neutral. There will never be a ground fault to trip a 
> GFCI.
> There is no ground.
> 
> I suppose an inverter manufacturer could create a third connection back to the
> power circuit Neutral that bypasses the GFCI. A short to that wire would cause
> an imbalance and trip the GFCI. Then you would be connecting a floating
> Neutral to the loads "ground" which may be exactly what the Xantrex article 
> says
> not to do.
> 
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C&C 30-1
>  
> 
> 
> 
> From: Ron Ricci  
> 
> David, 
> 
> I've followed some of this thread and have a few concerns where some have 
> mentioned using an inexpensive inverter.   
> 
> Using an inverter that is not intended for marine use or not properly 
> grounded can cause problems.  An inverter can produce short duration spikes 
> which exceed the insulation rating of most wires.  This becomes an issue in 
> wet areas and will cause insulation failure.   
> 
> There are other issues relating to inducing corrosion.  A friend who 
> coincidentally keeps his boat in RI and is the technical support guru for a 
> company that sells variable frequency drives (inverters for AC motors) had 
> to replace his propellers when he used an inverter he bought from Harbor 
> Freight.  It was probably fine for anything other than marine use. 
> 
> If the neutral on the inverter is not grounded, the neutral can kill you 
> regardless of the presence of a GFCI.   
> 
> Just my thoughts, 
> 
> Ron Ricci 
> S/V Patriot 
> C&C 37+ 
> Bristol, RI 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Inverter to Outlet Via Extension Cord?

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Use a GFCI outlet at the least.

> On Oct 23, 2016, at 2:24 PM, David via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> We have minimal inverter needs and would like to wire the 1000w inverter 
> directly to a dedicated outlet.  It does not have power outputs but two 
> receptacles for plugs.  
> 
> 
> I believe I can wire an extension cord to a outlet (assuming adequately rated 
> and quality components), but I would like to know of any pitfalls that others 
> may have found.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Battery tester

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Dave, go the conductance route.  It is a quick and easy way to test you 
batteries, is as accurate as other methods and will not actively damage your 
batteries, which is possible with the antiquated load test method.

Tim
Ex 35-3


Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 3, 2016, at 4:11 PM, Franklin Schenk via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I like the KISS method.  Use a multimeter to check the battery when fully 
> charged.  It should be about 12.5 volts.  Check it when the engine is running 
> and it should be 13.5 volts or higher.  If the battery cannot be recharged to 
> 12.5 volts, it is probably bad.  That is when you pull it out and take it to 
> a battery store.  This has worked for me for more years than most of you guys 
> have been alive,.
> 
> Frank
> 
> 
> On Monday, October 3, 2016 1:21 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I would like to be able to monitor the health of my batteries without having 
> to haul them off the boat.  I looked at Amazon and found many battery testers 
> (load and conductance) from $15 to $250.  Has anyone tried any of these 
> devices and have any suggestions on what to buy or not to buy? Dave
>   
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Sundowner is for sale

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Hi Peter,

Welcome to the Tayana club (I have a 48).  There is a Tayana owners' group 
email list and FTP site (not a comparison to Stus Lost, but there are some good 
people on there.

http://www.tognews.com

Tim


> On Sep 26, 2016, at 1:50 PM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Yes, I went down there twice already.  Rig is going down this weekend and we 
> are packing her up for truck transport.   Project boat.  I seem to be 
> attracted to them.  I went back and looked at Sundowner’s purchase survey 
> back in ’03, and then compared it to the one we just did in FL.  My life 
> flashed before my eyes, but I still went with the gut instinct.  Surveyor 
> said it might be easier to say: replace everything accept the following 
> items…..Later on as we were having a few cold ones after a long day, (sea 
> trial, rig survey etc etc) he goes:  this is the way to look at it, you have 
> a very solid hull above and below waterline, nice teak decks, running engine 
> and the rest of it is junk.  Actually aluminum spars are in good condition.  
> I know there won’t be a forum like this on FD-12s.  Only 25 were ever made. 
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
> Haughey via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, September 26, 2016 1:24 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Danny Haughey
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Sundowner is for sale
>  
> she looks great Petar!  Good luck on the sale and with the new boat!  Thats 
> quite a vessel you're getting!  is it the one on sailboat listings in St. 
> Augustine?
> 
>  
> On 9/26/2016 11:48 AM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List wrote:
> After 13 years I am moving on.   My offer for Tayana FD-12 was accepted in 
> FL.  I was never really good at showing off my work, but I added few albums 
> on Cruisers forum to document some of the major projects.   They are linked 
> in the add.  She is in Newport on a mooring at the Point Anchorage and will 
> be there for another month or so.   
>  
> http://www.sailboatlistings.com/view/61491
>  
>  
> Petar Horvatic
> Sundowner
> 76 C&C 38MkII
> Newport RI
>  
>  
> 
> 
> 
> ___
>  
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List 35 mK III spinnaker to hit those polars

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

All this talk of polars has reminded me that I have a spinnaker for a 35-3
in my cellar that will definitely help you hit those polar targets in light
air.  This didn't go with the boat when we parted because they wanted to
stick with the PHRF NE recreational handicap.  Please contact me off list
of you're interested (in the $1000+ range).

The spinnaker is essentially brand new, hoisted less than five times,
delivered to me in April 2015.  It is a 0.5oz AirX (polyester not nylon)
North V Series S1.5 light air runner (VMG) and has an IRC certificate if
needed.  It was amazing for the very short time I had it in Long Island
Sound, and more versatile than I expected (10-15 knots AWS / 70/75-160
degrees AWA).

Click here to see North Sails downwind sail selection / details


Thanks,

Tim
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 3QM30 Head Gasket

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

David,

The job is not that bad in theory (assuming the head is in OK condition it may 
only need a scrub with a scotchbrite pad), and you can get to the injectors 
easily enough to do another time if they are not causing issues.  I did three 
full rebuilds as part of a course in the last six months, but... It was easy in 
a workshop, not an engine compartment, one engine had numerous helicoils that 
needed to be picked out and replaced and nothing was completely seized.  If 
these or other unknowns occur they may spoil your day.  Could you give it a go 
and then hand it over if it becomes too much?

Tim
Ex 35-3



> On Sep 8, 2016, at 2:40 PM, David via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> So...we are leaving harbor  to make our way down to Mystic for the 
> Rendezvous.   As I usually do I turn around and check the exhaust for water 
> and color.
> 
> Today the color as darkish grey and it looked like oil was coming out as well.
> 
> I do an immediate 180 and go back to the mooring.
> 
> Mechanic is out within the hour and confirms my suspicions. Head gasket.  To 
> do the job right (injectors, planing head etc) he estimates $2,500 to $3,000. 
>  I think the price is fair but I wonder if I could do it myself.   Anyone 
> have any experiences around this?   I am a fair mechanic, but I don't want to 
> be penny-wise of pound foolish and I have never done anything like this 
> before.
> 
> Thanks in advance...
> 
> 
> 
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Garmin GMI10 Instrument

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Aaron,

I would suggest checking the voltage when other events occur (engine starting, 
water pressure or bilge pumps operating).  Electronics don't like it if 
momentary violate drops below around 10.5 Volts.

Tim
Ex 35-3 (and NMEA certified installer)

> On Sep 3, 2016, at 9:23 AM, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> My GMI10 started to randomly shut off.  I can power it back on using the 
> power button. Not sure what to check. Power supply looks good. Other 
> instruments are functioning OK. Any suggestions on what to check?
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> Aaron R.
> Admiral Maggie,
> 1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
> Annapolis, MD
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Winch replacement and winch failures

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

I have two spare (non-ST) 28's that are currently being used as paper weights.  
They  were cleaned and greased after being taken out of service.  Low-ball 
offers great fully received...

Tim
Ex-35-3

> On Aug 26, 2016, at 12:28 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Well, some of the 28's are indestructible.  The alloy Barient and Barlows 
> suffer from metal failures.
> 
> Failure mode 1 - wallowing out of the pawl sockets.  This can result in the 
> pawl not operating smoothly or at all.
> 
> Failure mode 2 - breaking off of teeth in the drum skirt.  This usually 
> happens when the headsail flogs violently with a wrap or two on a winch.
> 
> Note: I've only seen these failures on alloy winches.  Stainless and 
> chrome/bronze winches are much more robust.
> 
> When Touche' had alloy winches, I kept a spare 28 just in case.  I have 
> upgraded to chrome/bronze or stainless winches so the spare 28 (non-ST) is 
> available.  I also have some spare roller bearings for Barient 28 Non-ST's if 
> anybody needs them.  Sorry, no pawls or springs.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>> On Fri, Aug 26, 2016 at 11:06 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Those 28s are virtually indistructable but they are heavy. What size are you 
>> going up to?  
>> Joel  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List PHRF - 1990 C&C 34+DK

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

PHRF New England has base handicap of 81 for the 34/36 "R", 84 for the "XL", 
and 87 for the regular one (the basic +, I think).  These are all deeper keels 
than the wing keep version that rates 102 base.  I would think 105 is a fair 
bit out.

Tim
Ex 35-3
> On Aug 2, 2016, at 5:28 PM, Tom Vaughan via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I am looking for Spinnaker & Non Spinnaker (Main & Jib) PHRFs for the above 
> Boat.
> PHRF-LE couldn't find the Boat in their Database & assigned a PHRF for a 
> different Boat. I looked at the C&C Owners Database & found two similar 
> Boats. However there were many 34+ Boats, that either didn't say if they were 
> DK or WK, or didn't list a PHRF. Any PHRF info on the 1990 C&C 34+DK would be 
> appreciated. Tom Vaughan, 1990 C&C 
> 34+DK, Summer Love II, Buffalo, New York
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List faulty fuel gauge or sensor

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Frank,

If you have access to a multi-meter, measure the resistance across the sender; 
it should read about 30 ohms for full and 240 ohms for empty.  An open circuit 
(a bad connection or maybe a faulty sender) would show empty (>240 ohms).

Regards,

Tim

> On Jul 22, 2016, at 8:45 PM, Franklin Schenk via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Is there a simple way to check out the fuel level sensor to see if it is 
> working properly?  The fuel gauge reads zero even though the tank is about 
> half full.
> 
> Frank
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Practical installation of ACR/VSR

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Steve,

I won't defend the standards (and they are not state regulated, but industry 
adopted 🙂), but they do need some understanding.  The requirement is that all 
wire in a circuit needs appropriate overcurrent protection, not that every wire 
needs its own fuse.  

Following that, if all the wire in your battery to switch panel or battery to 
starter circuit is the same size then why not put your fuse at the battery 
rather than after the switch?  Its still only one fuse, but it's protecting 
more.  My batteries (it's a large bank) would deliver 20,000 amps in a short 
circuit condition, which is pretty much enough to weld with, so I have a 
class-T fuse as close as I can put it to the battery.

The US Coast Guard may have been proposing hex nuts rather than wing nuts, 
which have a tendency to loosen easily, but if it was the CG Auxiliary, all 
bets are off...

> On Jul 10, 2016, at 9:30 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The nanny state invading our sailboats. 
> "...connections of less than 7 inches..."  Really?
>  
> I don't see the need for fuses in the cables between the batteries and the 
> selector switch. There is a difference between careful and paranoid.
> 
> The U.S. coast guard inspected a friend of mine's sailboat, and among other 
> things, told him that he was required to have nylon lock nuts on his lead 
> battery post connectors. 
> 
> Good grief. 
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
> 
> - Original Message -
> From: "Tim Goodyear via CnC-List" 
> To: 
> Cc: "Tim Goodyear" ; "syerd...@gmail.com" 
> 
> Sent: Sunday, July 10, 2016 08:42
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Practical installation of ACR/VSR
> 
> > Hi Dave,
>  
> 
> > 
> > Under ABYC standards, connections of less than 7" do not need to be fuses, 
> > neither do engine cranking circuits, but if you don't fuse other circuits 
> > you are asking for insurance / survey trouble if things go wrong...  Blue 
> > Sea have a great on-battery fuse (MRBF) that you could mount directly on 
> > the studs of the ACR without a lot of effort (and now required for your 
> > house bank).  You are protecting the wires, not the devices with these 
> > fuses, preventing short circuit current from causing them to ignite, so if 
> > the ACR wires are a different size than the battery cables you need 
> > different fuses.
> > 
> > https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A
> > 
> > I hope that helps!
> > 
> > Tim
> > 
> > Tim Goodyear
> > Ex-35-3
> > 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Practical installation of ACR/VSR

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Hi Dave,

Your ACR doesn't function as you describe; it is just a relay, with no charging 
intelligence built in except that it will only close when it senses charging (a 
voltage above a certain level for a certain time) on one or both battery banks. 
 That shouldn't matter too much if both banks are the same battery chemistry 
and the same age, but they will both "see" the same voltage (minus wiring 
voltage drops) when the relay is closed, so make sure it's appropriate.

You are heading in the right direction on voltage drops and overcurrent 
protection (fuses), but voltage is crucial to battery charging and you don't 
want to lose your boat to an electrical fire for the sake of a couple of 
fuses...

Voltage drop will depend on current (how big is your alternator / battery 
charger), wire length (total of positive and negative lengths) and wire size - 
if it's going to be longer than recommended, increase the size of the wire.  
Blue Sea Systems probably have a calculator on their site or you can search for 
ABYC voltage drop tables.

Under ABYC standards, connections of less than 7" do not need to be fuses, 
neither do engine cranking circuits, but if you don't fuse other circuits you 
are asking for insurance / survey trouble if things go wrong...  Blue Sea have 
a great on-battery fuse (MRBF) that you could mount directly on the studs of 
the ACR without a lot of effort (and now required for your house bank).  You 
are protecting the wires, not the devices with these fuses, preventing short 
circuit current from causing them to ignite, so if the ACR wires are a 
different size than the battery cables you need different fuses.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A

I hope that helps!

Tim

Tim Goodyear
Ex-35-3

> On Jul 10, 2016, at 8:17 AM, Syerdave--- via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> Wondering about the practical vs the theoretical here.  
> Am upgrading the DC system, adding a Group 24 dedicated start battery, and 
> connecting the two group 31 in parallel to double the capacity of what will 
> become the dedicated house bank.   Am adding a blue sea switch and ACR.
> FYI - an ACR is a device that upon starting the engine essentially 'chooses' 
> to top up the start battery fully before allowing the the house bank to be 
> charged.   
> Anyway, the manual states that the acr should be connected as close as 
> possible to the battery (to prevent voltage drop from compromising its 
> function to any degree) and both of its leads fused based on the wire gauge.  
>  All makes sense, especially when the batteries are located At a distance 
> from the switch or ACR.   however
> The simplest installation is directly adjacent to the switch, not the 
> battery.  The leads to the ACR would be very short and well protected - less 
> than a foot.  (The battery cables themselves are not fused!)  In the 33-2, 
> the distance to battery is still very short - less than eight feet of cable 
> for sure.
> 
> In this situation, I can only see an infinitesimal difference in voltage drop 
> by locating the ACR a few feet closer to the battery, really, no meaningful 
> difference.  With a lead length measured in inches the positive wires to the 
> ACR probably do not need to be fused.   (the ground wire IS fused, protecting 
> against failure of the device itself.).  
> 
> Has anyone got any experience with this that would tell me otherwise?   
> Thanks!
> 
> Dave Syer   33-2
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Smelly Water Tank

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Hi Randy,

I passed my ABYC Marine Systems exam this morning, so am fully up on the 
prescribed procedures.  Essentially soak the entire system (all tanks, pumps, 
outlets) with household bleach at 100 parts per million (which works out at 8oz 
per 10 gallons of tank capacity.  Leave it for more than 8 hours, but less than 
24, drain, flush with fresh water (maybe more than once) then fill.

I did this on our 380 gallon tanks a couple of weeks ago.  It got rid of the 
bad odor, still has a very faint scent of bleach and took about an hour running 
all outlets to empty out

Regards,

Tim
Ex 35-3

> On Jun 13, 2016, at 2:17 PM, RANDY via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Listers-
> 
> My 30-1 has developed a bad odor in the water tank under the starboard settee 
> (the tank that supplies the galley sink).
> 
> Any tips on how to get rid of it?  I'm tempted to pour some bleach in the 
> tank but wanted to check with you all first to see if there is any risk of 
> damaging the material from which the tank is made (fiberglass, I think - the 
> tank seems to be a molded part of the settee).
> 
> Note I don't drink that water or even use it for cooking.  I mainly use it 
> for cleaning.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List flexofold vs Martec

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Mike, yes, I swapped from a Martec (non-geared) to a flex-o-fold about 6 years 
ago on Mojito (35-3).  There was a dramatic difference in reverse capabilities.

> On Jun 7, 2016, at 9:41 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> On Persistence we currently have a Martec RH 16 DX 14P 2 blade elliptical 
> folding propeller that is approximately 10 years old on our Yanmar 3GM30F.  I 
> back in to my slip because when I am motoring in reverse I can stop very 
> quickly by putting in fwd.  If driving forward into a slip I cannot stop 
> quickly by putting into reverse.  My normal procedure is to approach our 
> marina at approx. 4 knots, then put in neutral for a bit and at 3 knots put 
> in reverse and increase RPMs to 2800.  During this time I turn bow away from 
> marina for approx. 30 seconds until the boat stops its forward momentum and 
> then begins to move in reverse.  After that it drives very nicely in reverse 
> and I back all the way in til I get to my slip and am stopped.
>  
> Suffice it to say there is very little bite when engaging reverse.
>  
> Has anyone here recently switched from Martec folding to Flexofold geared 
> prop who can offer any comments on the difference in reverse?  Is it 
> significant and therefore worthwhile paying the $1200 US price I have been 
> quoted?
>  
> Thanks
>  
> Mike
> Persistence
> 1987 Frers 33 #16
> Halifax, NS
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 2016 C&C Northeast Rendezvous -- Mystic Seaport, CT -- Sept 10-12, 2016

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Rick, I've found the C & D canal takes off a lot of miles over the Norfolk 
route.  I know the Delaware can be a pain, but have you checked that out?

> On Jun 6, 2016, at 11:18 AM, rick bushie via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> David,
> 
> I plotted an all outside trip out as well.  Down the Chesapeake and up 
> outside LI from Norfolk.  Added up to just over 500 miles iirc.  If I decide 
> to make the trip, I'll keep an outside route as a contingency if the weather 
> holds. I have an autopilot but I haven't seen friends go on sale on Defender. 
>  With my winning personality, that might be the only way I could get one.  As 
> it stands right now, I'm on vacation from 9/2 - 9/19.  Plenty of time.
> 
> Rick Bushie
> Anchovy, 1971, 30-1
> Tolchester, MD
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Jake, Sam,

I saw a substantial increase in mast bend when using the baby stay in
addition to the backstay over just the backstay on my prior 35-3.  My sails
were designed for that full mast bend, so worth checking out at the dock.

Regards,

Tim
ex-Mojito

On Sat, Jun 4, 2016 at 6:33 AM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Sam,
>
>
>
> I usually tension the backstay first and have never noticed a problem with
> slack in the babystay.  We don’t use the baby stay much, as the winds here
> tend to be light.  The babystay doesn’t really pull at an effective angle
> to generate much mast bend either.  It does stabilize the lower section of
> the mast though.  I usually can’t see the babystay from the helm, but the
> effect on the mast (as far as being stable) is noticeable.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Sam
> Salter via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, June 3, 2016 22:51
> *To:* CNC-LIST 
> *Cc:* Sam Salter 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?
>
>
>
> Looking at this as an engineering problem (I don't have a 30-2) - explain
> what I'm missing:
>
>
>
> Top of the mast is more or less fixed (fore and aft) by the forestay.
> Sure, it will move back an inch or two when it takes up slack in the
> forestay, but mostly it's going to stay put.
>
> Baby stay puts pre bend into centre of mast‎ or at least fixes it in
> space, fore and aft.
>
> When backstay is tensioned won't the top move mostly down and push the
> middle of the mast forward, slackening the baby stay?
>
> Tensioning the forestay‎ and taking draft out of the main.
>
> Do you guys see the baby stay go slack or am I full of it???
>
>
>
> sam :-)
>
> C&C 26 Liquorice
>
> Ghost Lake Alberta
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

I don't see why something that has been religiously soaked in vinegar would 
change by being soaked in more vinegar, so I'm not sure of the point of that 
experiment.  The (maybe softer, younger) solids in Mojito's headmate pump 
cylinder and joker valve allowed easier pumping and less back flow following 
this treatment.

Tim

> On Jun 3, 2016, at 4:00 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> there is an article about vinegar in the head on the compass marine site 
> where he experiments with the vinegar and finds no benefit for the practice.
> 
> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/vinegar_in_the_head
> 
> Danny
> 
>> On 6/1/2016 7:50 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List wrote:
>> Good advice Tim. 
>> Also flush with lots of fresh water if the boat is going to sit for a while.
>>  
>> I would like to find a substitute part for the piston rod packing on the 
>> W.C. headmate.
>> Don't need the whole kit, and I can't find a source for the individual parts 
>> anymore.
>> Going to try backing up what is still left with some hardware store 
>> "graphite string" packing sold to fix faucet bonnet leaks, but if anyone has 
>> had good experience with something else, I would like to hear it.
>>  
>> Steve Thomas
>> C&C27 MKIII
>> Port Stanley, ON
>>  
>> C&C36
>> Merritt Island, FL
>> - Original Message -
>> From: Tim Goodyear via CnC-List
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Tim Goodyear
>> Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2016 06:51
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden
>> 
>> If you're getting a little backflow from the joker valve, you may want to 
>> try running some household (white) vinegar through the system and leaving it 
>> to soak overnight.  Salt deposits build up on the valves and vinegar helps 
>> dissolve it.  It is a cheap and very much hands-off first option.
>> 
>> Tim
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

In my experience, mineral oil floats at the top of the holding tank and stops 
aeration - very smelly...

> On Jun 1, 2016, at 5:19 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I was surprised to learn that Muriatic acid is actually preferred to vinigar 
> as a treatment for the internal buildup in the toilet.  So long as there are 
> no exposed metal parts it works great.  The stuff fizzes up...and when it 
> stops it is either all used up or done.
> 
> Then a follow up with mineral oil to lube the inside does the trick.
> 
> Tom B
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
> 
> 
> At 11:43 AM 6/1/2016, you wrote:
> 
>> On Jun 1, 2016, at 6:51 AM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:
>> 
>> If you're getting a little backflow from the joker valve, you may want to 
>> try running some household (white) vinegar through the system and leaving it 
>> to soak overnight.  Salt deposits build up on the valves and vinegar helps 
>> dissolve it.  It is a cheap and very much hands-off first option.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Tim
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> On May 31, 2016, at 9:10 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:
>> 
>> I just bought the rebuild kit for $72 at Jamestown Distributors (USD) but it 
>> seems the Thetford Headmate pump assembly is currently back ordered from 
>> those that are listing it on their websites.
>> 
>> I get a slight amount of back flow if the head is pumped empty which I 
>> suspect is the joker valve either worn or not seating properly. Also, the 
>> handle doesn?t want to stay in the down position in either the empty or 
>> flush position, which makes me believe there is back pressure even when the 
>> intake side is shut.
>> 
>> Chuck Gilchrest
>> 
>> S/V Half Magic
>> 
>> 1983 LF 35
>> 
>> Padanaram, MA
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

If you're getting a little backflow from the joker valve, you may want to try 
running some household (white) vinegar through the system and leaving it to 
soak overnight.  Salt deposits build up on the valves and vinegar helps 
dissolve it.  It is a cheap and very much hands-off first option.

Tim


> On May 31, 2016, at 9:10 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I just bought the rebuild kit for $72 at Jamestown Distributors (USD) but it 
> seems the Thetford Headmate pump assembly is currently back ordered from 
> those that are listing it on their websites.
> I get a slight amount of back flow if the head is pumped empty which I 
> suspect is the joker valve either worn or not seating properly. Also, the 
> handle doesn’t want to stay in the down position in either the empty or flush 
> position, which makes me believe there is back pressure even when the intake 
> side is shut.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 LF 35
> Padanaram, MA
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
> Dziedzic via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2016 6:50 PM
> To: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden
>  
> And it is almost cheaper, as well. I had just replaced a pump in my head and 
> I paid $95 for the pump, and the repair kit was $85 (both CAD). It was a 
> Jabsco, so not the same, but in the process I got a locking handle as a bonus.
>  
> I made a mistake to remove the waste hose off the old pump. What a pain.
>  
> Marek
>  
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>  
> From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
> Sent: May 31, 2016 16:35
> To: CnClist
> Cc: Dennis C.
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Toilet Repair Wilcox Crittenden
>  
> You may want to consider a new pump assembly.  If it's a WC Head Mate 1460-C 
> then the pump assembly should be Part 015461.
> 
> There are a couple of benefits of replacing the entire pump assembly.  Your 
> old pump cylinder may be scored or worn.  It's usually quicker and easier 
> than installing a rebuild kit. 
> 
> Dennis C.
>  
> On Tue, May 31, 2016 at 1:49 PM, Eugene Fodor via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Trying to identify the correct toilet repair kit for my marine head on my C&C 
> 29 Mark II 1984/85. It is clearly a Wilcox Crittenden. The pump is leaking 
> fresh water out of the top when pumping and when heeled over there is 
> significant backflow from the tank. :-( I'm pretty sure the joker valve is 
> shot. Here's some pictures of the pump and head:
>  
> https://goo.gl/photos/VrEo64B65gto2wU19
>  
> The following kit looks like it's the right one.
>  
> http://www.westmarine.com/buy/wilcox-crittenden--headmate-maintenance-kit--135301
>  
> Has anyone else had experience repairing these? Does that look like the right 
> kit?
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> Gene Fodor
> C&C 29 Mark II
> Hawk
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR (Update)

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

The 3HM35 has a continuous rating of 3200 rpm with a 1-hour rating higher than 
that, so it is probably worth continuing the hunt for issues (maybe around the 
exhaust water injection?). A properly functioning engine should not overheat 
with load from a few barnacles, should it, or was it really fouled?


> On May 30, 2016, at 10:14 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I borrowed a wet suit and regulator from a fellow club member and drove the 
> boat (first time!).  Barnacles on prop and shaft came offsite a chisel 
> followed by a wire brush.  Aside from poking a wire coat hanger in the water 
> intake to the mixing elbo, everything else was the same as those way there.
> 
> We ran all the way back at around 2500 RPM without issue.  
> 
> Guess a crapped up prop can result in overheating problems...Go figure. 
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera 
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Radar power wire

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Hi Danny, my musings on negative vs screen:

The negative wire will have current flowing through it to power the radar and, 
because of the voltage drop from one end to the other, will not be at precisely 
the same potential as it exits the radar as the negative post.  The screen 
should have very limited current (it is not part of the power circuit) and 
therefore should be at the same potential as the negative post.  Voltage drop 
will depend on the wire size / length and power draw of the appliance.

Regards,

Tim
Ex C&C 35-3

> On May 30, 2016, at 7:38 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thank you Fred.
> 
> I'll try to remember to gather all the manuals and bring then along on my 
> next trip to the boat. 
> 
> So, the start battery is quite close,  directly under the helm.  Would it be 
> beneficial to run that green/screen wire directly to the start battery 
> negative post?  Or is that simply not necessary being that the breaker box is 
> already so close to the same battery?  
> 
> I guess, according to the manual, a direct line to the start battery wild be 
> the preferred solution.  
> 
> my confusion is,  If the grounding bars in the panel are already bonded,  
> this green"screen" wire  seems redundant.  What benefit is the added green 
> 'screen' wire if it just ties to the same ground post as the black ground 
> wire?
> 
> Danny
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
> Date: 5/29/16 7:19 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Frederick G Street 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Radar power wire
> 
> Danny — RTFM…   :^)
> 
> Page 16 of the HD Digital Radome Scanner user’s guide:
> 
>> Grounding
>> 
>> These grounding requirements are applicable for Raymarine equipment supplied 
>> with a separate drain wire or screen.
>> 
>> • The product power cable drain conductor (screen) must be connected to a 
>> common ground point.
>> 
>> • It is recommended that the common ground point is a bonded ground, i.e. 
>> with the ground point connected to battery negative, and situated as close 
>> as possible to the battery negative terminal. If a bonded ground system is 
>> not possible, a non-bonded RF ground may be used.
> 
> So tie it with the black wire to the power source (DC breaker).
> 
> 
> — Fred
> 
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
>> On May 29, 2016, at 5:15 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Hi guys, 
>> 
>> I need a little wiring advice.
>> 
>> There are 3 wires for the radar power. 
>> Red
>> Green
>> Black
>> 
>> Red to breaker
>> Black to ground bar
>> Green to ...?  
>> 
>> Thanks
>> Danny
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Lightning protection by design?

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

I think you're close, but I'd make sure of the connection between mast and keel 
bolt.  The mast is key for conductance (aluminium is a much better conductor 
than stainless steel). ABYC would require a 4AWG primary conductor for 
lightning protection; a short strap from the mast to keel bolt would satisfy 
that.

Tim
(Ex 35-3)

> On Apr 28, 2016, at 9:54 AM, Chuck Saur via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hello gang. Thinking of warm weather and reading the great article on 
> lightning protection by Glen Miller (thank you whoever sent the link).  I 
> could absorb most of the intent, although some of the detail was a little 
> over my head. One of the most critical points he made was to connect the mast 
> to the keel for lightning to smoothly exit, and maintain other avenues for 
> exit as well (chain plates, etc.).  Here is the site again:  
> 
> http://waeshael.com/waeshael.com/Propane_and_Lightning_files/Lightning.pdf
> 
> Now here is the question.  My 35-3 has a keel bolt directly under the mast, 
> and the mast is stationed within an aluminum tray.  Direct metal to metal 
> contact.  So...by design, is this already a head start on proper grounding? 
> My keel, (like everyone else's?) has a thin sheath of glass around the metal 
> of the keel, but does this suffice?  Hm...should I feel safer?
> 
> Seems the chainplates and toerail need connecting to ground, but did C&C 
> design help us out here? I always approached this topic with confusion, and 
> trying to get it figured out...
> 
> 
> 
> Chuck Saur
> Morning Sky
> C&C 35-3
> Somewhere in the Straits...
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Depth transducer throughhull leak

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

I had a leak on my newly installed transducer on launch.  Swapping out the plug 
and replacing it with the actual transducer solved that.  I'll get new o-rings 
for the (brand new) blanking plug and try again.  It might be worth a try if 
the leak is through the housing rather than outside.

Tim
Ex C&C 35-3

> On Apr 24, 2016, at 12:22 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Is it leaking between the hull and the thruhull or between the transducer and 
> the thruhull?
> 
> If the transducer is removable and has O ring seals it is possible to remove 
> and clean or replace the O rings while afloat.
> 
> Martin
> Calypso
> 1971 C&C 43
> Seattle
> 
> From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Michael Crombie 
> via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2016 8:00 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net
> Subject: Stus-List Depth transducer throughhull leak
> 
> Launch was Friday, went smoothly. Yesterday when I came down I noticed water 
> in the bilge and traced it to a leaking depth transducer throughhull.
> 
> Is there a fix for this to get me through the season?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike
> Atacama. 33mkii
> Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
> Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List GPS

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

You do not have to enable WiFi to share a personal hotspot from and iPhone; you 
can use BT or USB instead.  I'm not sure whether it would then share location 
information, but I'm interested to find out.

Tim

> On Apr 10, 2016, at 10:21 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> If you set up a personal hotspot, you are enabling Wi-Fi, not BT. Normally, 
> you won’t get location data, as this is not shared over Wi-Fi. Unless there 
> is a special app that you would run on both sides.
>  
> Marek
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David 
> Knecht via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2016 10:05
> To: CnC CnC discussion list 
> Cc: David Knecht 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List GPS
>  
> If you set up a Personal Hotspot with your iPhone and bluetooth that to your 
> non-GPS enabled iPad, will it share location data?  It appears possible from 
> what I have read.  Dave
>  
> On Apr 4, 2016, at 10:00 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Jim — you can add an external GPS receiver like the Bad Elf via Bluetooth; 
> then you’ll have the functionality you need without having to buy a 
> cell-enabled iPad.  I’ve got one, and it works great.
>  
> http://www.amazon.com/Bad-Elf-2200-Black-silver/dp/B008VWNBBE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1459778416&sr=8-2&keywords=bad-elf+gps
>  
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>  
> On Apr 4, 2016, at 8:44 AM, Elizabeth McDonald via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>  
> I should have qualified the question, we downloaded Navionics, our I pad does 
> not have GPS, therefore, no ship icon!   Will it appear on this app, if we 
> purchase this I pad with GPS, but without a phone plan!
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> 
> On Apr 4, 2016, at 10:11 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> iPad with cellular, doesn't need a phone subscription for the GPS to work.
> 
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
>  
> Dr. David Knecht
> Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
> Core Microscopy Facility Director
> University of Connecticut 
> 91 N. Eagleville Rd.
> Storrs, CT 06269
> 860-486-2200
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Defender sale - Raymarine eS78 Navionics? plus SH GX2200 VHF/AIS

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

I purchased an es128 with Navionics charts from the same sale, plus Raymarine's 
new chirp radar (17W transmit power and wifi connection to the MFD sold me) and 
AIS.  I'm looking forward to setting it up!

Tim

> On Apr 2, 2016, at 5:03 PM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> seeking any advice or comments before I pull the trigger tomorrow on a 
> chartplotter and VHF with AIS to overlay on the plotter. Total with rebate 
> just over one BOAT buck. I'm used to Navionics - my only reason for picking 
> it over the other chart options. I have ST60 Raymarine instruments, 
> connecting them nice but not essential, cruising Lake Superior and 
> particularly the Canadian side. Not a whiz at marine electronics.. Your 
> thoughts appreciated.
> 
> Nate
> 
> Sarah Jean
> 1980 30-1
> 
> and
> 
> Tartan 31
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Possible offer on a 86' C&C MKIII - with photos/video

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

I did change out the rig on my 35-3 last year, for new rod.  The threads on the 
turnbuckle screws were noticeably thinner in some areas and are ridiculously 
expensive to replace, so for not too much more I did the shrouds and back stay 
with new rid, tangs and turnbuckles.  Determining the state of the rod is hard 
without die testing, but checking the terminals at the deck is pretty easy.

As others have said, look out for them sat step (any sign of sinking in the 
floor / floors).

Good luck with the purchase - you'll enjoy sailing her if you do!

Tim

Tim Goodyear

> On Mar 30, 2016, at 11:52 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> My surveyor laughed when I said I was going to change out my 1984 rod. 
> "Nobody here changes their rig."
> Strangely enough, there's a lot of truth in that in this part of the rain 
> forest. 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
>> On 30 March 2016 at 17:56, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Chris,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> The exposed core around the mast could be an issue, but it depends on how 
>> far it goes.  On my boat the core around the mast is plywood and has several 
>> inches of play.  That’s where mast wedges are normally placed.  You may be 
>> able to cut back the core to solid wood.  I used epoxy to seal the edges of 
>> my core and have had no issues.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> The boom hinge looks mostly cosmetic.  You could remove it, clean it up, and 
>> spray paint it with Krylon to make it look better.  It doesn’t appear to be 
>> functionally deficient.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> A little paint issue on the engine isn’t cause for much concern.  Yours 
>> looks much better than mine. What matters more is how well the inside of the 
>> engine has been taken care of, e.g. oil changes and such.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Leaking portlights will need to be replaced.  Silicone is just a band aid 
>> fix. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> A few loose stanchions are to be expected, unless they are caused by deck 
>> issues.  The stanchions on your boat are all mounted to the toerail, so it 
>> shouldn’t be a deck problem.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Standing rigging does have limitations.  I have replaced or reheaded all of 
>> my standing rigging.  Depending on condition, a rigger might be needed to 
>> recommend which is right for you.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Jake
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Jake Brodersen
>> 
>> C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
>> 
>> Hampton VA
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of CHRIS 
>> HOBSON via CnC-List
>> Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2016 18:38
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: CHRIS HOBSON 
>> Subject: Stus-List Possible offer on a 86' C&C MKIII - with photos/video
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Hoping to get some perspective from the group on a boat I’m interested in. 
>> I’m not a surveyor but I took some photos and video (in the link below) of a 
>> 86’ C&C MKIII I'm considering making an offer on. And would really 
>> appreciate some thoughts on it to save me the hassle of paying a surveyor if 
>> something is obviously wrong with it. The possible areas of concern without 
>> a proper survey and my limited knowledge are:
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> - water in the core of the deck around the mast (see photos) haven’t tested
>> 
>> - corroded boom (hinge?) 
>> 
>> - some bubbling/corrosion under paint on engine
>> 
>> - bad seal around two large side port-lights, interior I saw silicone around 
>> perimeter 
>> 
>> - few loose stanchions 
>> 
>> - original (I think) standing rigging
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Short story is owner bought it a year ago didn’t sail it much or from what 
>> I’ve seen, maintain it. Here is a link to view the photos/video I took. I 
>> did not do a correct test with a hammer or moisture reader on deck but did 
>> walk around quite a bit and there was nothing obvious in the way of soft 
>> spots. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Anyway here is the link would love to hear what others think:
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0Bx6tzmnoism-Y2g1UERWXzZ6NXM&usp=sharing
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Cheers
>> 
>> Chris
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Defender sale

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Chuck, are all the pre-made halyards listed online, or are three more 
variations in-store?

Thanks, I may see you on Saturday.  I've placed an order online, but may come 
in for line and batteries.

Thanks,

Tim
(Ex 35-3)

> On Mar 30, 2016, at 4:29 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I will be working at the sale all 4 days in the rope/ cut goods area.  
> Defender stocked up big time on Novabraid mooring pendants and pre-made 
> halyards so if you need either of these items, stop by and I'll help you.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 LF 35
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Mar 30, 2016, at 3:52 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Ah yes, the Defender sale. In other words, the time of year where my wife 
>> yells: “Red Alert! Shields Up!"
>> 
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>> 
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY 
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>> 
>> 
>>> On Mar 30, 2016, at 3:20 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> The annual Defender sale is on.  Already placed an order.
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> Joel 
>>> 301 541 8551
>>> ___
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List now cored hulls

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Don't get me wrong, we really enjoyed Mojito, and had just upgraded a lot of 
things in anticipation of extended ownership before life took an unexpected 
turn and we went for a more "cruisey" option.  They are great boats.  

We had two areas of core we had to replace in the hull; from the turn of the 
bilge at mid-keel up around 3' on the port side for around 6' fire/aft and a 
smaller area on the starboard side from the middle of the keel forward.

It was my decision what to do with the repair; it probably could have been left 
as it was for many more years of sailing, but I wanted to keep her in good 
shape for the longer term.  As I said, go into the decision fully informed and 
you'll know what to do if the survey shows moisture or rot and to what extent.  
The bilge sump is solid glass -and is another area to check (for evidence of 
any hard groundings).

Thanks,

Tim
> On Mar 25, 2016, at 8:03 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Tim - Well that’s gotta suc…  If you’re writing the checks you can hate all 
> you want.  Am curious however how much of the issue was in the hull itself.  
> I would have thought most of the bilge sump sections would be areas of solid 
> laminate.
> 
> Sorry to hear of your problems.
> 
> John (not the guy looking at the 35-3)
> 
> 
>> On Mar 25, 2016, at 7:11 PM, Tim Goodyear  wrote:
>> 
>> Not being an owner of a C&C any more, you may lump me with the haters, but I 
>> am really looking forward to delivering Mojito (C&C 35-3, the same as you're 
>> looking at) from Branford CT up to Newport for her final trip with us in a 
>> couple of weeks.  Having said that, I have spent more than the purchase 
>> price replacing core in the hull and the decks, so get a good surveyor, who 
>> know what they are doing on 30 year-old cored hulls, and go into the 
>> purchase informed!  The interior skin on the 35-3 is fairly thin and the 
>> repairers seem to think initial moisture intrusion was from that direction, 
>> not from outside.  I couldn't see anywhere that fasteners had been used 
>> inappropriately to cause the damage.
>> 
>> Tim
>> Ex Mojito
>> C&C 35-3
>> 
>> 
>>> On Mar 25, 2016, at 3:01 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> So this really does beg the question.  Has anyone had firsthand experience 
>>> with a hull core issue?  Decks are understandable - lots of holes from 
>>> hardware.  Rudders are understandable - big post.  But as I think about 
>>> this (and despite all the internet chatter on the subject) I can only 
>>> recall a very few stories and have never had any first hand issues with the 
>>> hull itself.  Curious what everyone else’s experience has been.  
>>> 
>>> John
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List now cored hulls

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Not being an owner of a C&C any more, you may lump me with the haters, but I am 
really looking forward to delivering Mojito (C&C 35-3, the same as you're 
looking at) from Branford CT up to Newport for her final trip with us in a 
couple of weeks.  Having said that, I have spent more than the purchase price 
replacing core in the hull and the decks, so get a good surveyor, who know what 
they are doing on 30 year-old cored hulls, and go into the purchase informed!  
The interior skin on the 35-3 is fairly thin and the repairers seem to think 
initial moisture intrusion was from that direction, not from outside.  I 
couldn't see anywhere that fasteners had been used inappropriately to cause the 
damage.

Tim
Ex Mojito
C&C 35-3


> On Mar 25, 2016, at 3:01 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> So this really does beg the question.  Has anyone had firsthand experience 
> with a hull core issue?  Decks are understandable - lots of holes from 
> hardware.  Rudders are understandable - big post.  But as I think about this 
> (and despite all the internet chatter on the subject) I can only recall a 
> very few stories and have never had any first hand issues with the hull 
> itself.  Curious what everyone else’s experience has been.  
> 
> John
> 
> 
> 
>> On Mar 25, 2016, at 2:43 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Chris, 
>> 
>> C&C pretty much invented using cored hulls on production sailboats, that was 
>> previously reserved for high end offshore racing powerboats.. Their 
>> fiberglass layups were also 2nd to none.. They really did put in the extra 
>> effort and you can see that when you start looking at the details. 
>> 
>> You read the cored hulls horror stories on other forums, mostly from 
>> internet "experts" that have never seen a C&C up-close. They typically just 
>> see us from a distance while we're blowing them away. :-)  
>> 
>> Seriously, if the boat has been reasonably well taken care of it will last a 
>> long long time
>> 
>> Make sure you get a good survey and ask lots of questions from the prior 
>> owner.. 
>> 
>> Antoine Rose crossed the Atlantic twice in a 1973 C&C 30 MK I. He sailed it 
>> from Montreal QC to Brest France.  Read the story of the way from Canada to 
>> France here http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/CnC30_Crosses_Atlantic/index.pdf
>> 
>> He's brought it back since.. 
>> 
>> -Francois Rivard
>> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
>> Lake Lanier, GA 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> > On Fri, Mar 25, 2016 at 12:01 PM, Chris Hobson via CnC-List <
>> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> >
>> > I?m new to C&C world, recently narrowed down my boat search to a C&C and
>> > currently have my eye on two that are on the market: a 1986 C&C 35 MKIII
>> > and a 1979 C&C 36. Have heard the good/bad and I?m told it all comes down
>> > to a good surveyor (if anyone knows a good surveyor with C&C knowledge
>> > please send them my way!) and I have to say I?m a bit apprehensive about a
>> > 30+ year old boat with cored hull and topsides. But I?m curious what others
>> > have to say about this topic or if there?s anything they might expand upon
>> > outside of what I?ve noted above.
>> >
>> >
>> > Many thanks,
>> > Chris
>> >
>> >
>> > Chris Hobson, Owner
>> > HobsonBuildsCo.com 
>> > ch...@hobsonbuildsco.com
>> > 416-436-1037
>> >
>> Regards
>> François Rivard   4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw
>> 
>> Big Data Black Belt   Atlanta, 30327-3015
>> IBM Sales & Distribution, Software Sales  Usa
>> Mobile:  770-639-0429
>> e-mail:  jfriv...@us.ibm.com 
>>  
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List : Running cable in the mast

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Graham, I had what looked like original equipment conduit (it fit onto a 
channel at the back of the luff groove) on Mojito.

Thanks,

Tim

> On Mar 1, 2016, at 8:51 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> And if you replace the lights with LED versions you can probably go down a 
> wire size - so less stuff in the conduit.
> 
> Anyone know if the mast on a 35-3 has a conduit in it?  I suspect not, but 
> have not actually looked.  And I get lots of wire slap.
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>> On 2016-03-01 9:15 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List wrote:
>> In my opinion, when you find 30-year old lamp cord, replace it before it 
>> fails or worse yet, shorts out your electrical system.  My bilge pump even 
>> used lamp cord originally!  Use good Anchor-brand tinned wire of an 
>> appropriate size.
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
>> Bob Boyer
>> S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD 
>> (presently in Baltimore)
>> 1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
>> email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
>> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>> 
>> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
>> messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame
>> 
>> On Mar 1, 2016, at 10:42 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>>> I used the cable tie method to gather in all my wires (no conduit in mast) 
>>> and left the tails on. It works pretty well, you still get some wire slap, 
>>> and I’m not sure why, but it is not annoying enough to deter sleep. Maybe 
>>> heavier cable ties would center the bundle better – mine are just the 
>>> standard Lowe’s versions.
>>>  
>>> If there’s a large hole in the masthead fitting, I would get a tube of rain 
>>> gutter caulk and fill it up – this stuff is very sticky and adheres well – 
>>> better than anything else I’ve tried. I like Joel’s idea of using a halyard 
>>> exit fitting to help keep the rain from coming in, but I have found you 
>>> will get water down the mast from the sheave exits and shroud fittings 
>>> anyway.
>>>  
>>> There are all sorts of rubber grommets to put around cables as they exit 
>>> the mast – again try an electrical supply place of home improvement store. 
>>> The in-cabin exit was filed smooth on my boat, and I’ve left it that way 
>>> and have had no problems in over 20 years. And, you spreader light wire is 
>>> indeed lamp cord – fix it if you think you need to, I haven’t and it still 
>>> works fine.
>>>  
>>> Just something to keep you awake at night….and there is no “right way” – it 
>>> is just your preference at this time – if you want “right” go find a Swan 
>>> and look at their plumbing and electrical setups and then open your wallet 
>>> wide.
>>>  
>>> Gary
>>> 30-1
>>> Maryland
>>>  
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel 
>>> Aronson via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Tuesday, March 1, 2016 10:06 AM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: Joel Aronson 
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List : Running cable in the mast
>>>  
>>> Danny,
>>>  
>>> Maybe something like this to create a loop and keep out water:
>>>  
>>> http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?part=151199&engine=adwords&keyword=product_ad&gclid=CJDfxLrWn8sCFYEjHwod9ycIug
>>>  
>>> Not sure how to secure the cable.  Maybe some type of waterproof cable 
>>> clamp would keep out water and hold the cable?
>>>  
>>> Joel
>>>  
>>>  
>>>  
>>> On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 9:10 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Hi Guys,
>>>  
>>> I was down checking out the mast on my boat and I had some observations and 
>>> questions.
>>> - there is a 1 inch conduit running about 2 feet from the very bottom to 
>>> the top.  It is pretty full
>>> - It seems to be the only conduit and there is no break at the spreader for 
>>> the deck lights wire or radar cable
>>> - the current deck light wire looks like white lamp wire and I plan to 
>>> replace it
>>> - the deck light wires are just run down the mast with no support and they 
>>> are noisy
>>> - there is messenger run down the mast for the radar cable but, again not 
>>> supported
>>> - what can I do to add some support when running the new wires?
>>> - I've hears some people use longish cable ties on the wire and don't cut 
>>> off the tail to keep them quiet.  I'm not sure about that idea...
>>> - the radar cable is pretty heavy, I'm not sure if just running it 25 feet 
>>> down the mast, unsupported, is such a good idea
>>> - there are virtually no access plates at the spreaders
>>> - wires are run out of the mast through drilled holes.  not so great for 
>>> the wire jacket.
>>> - so, how do I do this the right way?
>>> - whats the right way to run the wires?
>>> - whats the right way to exit the mast?
>>> - A lot of water gets into the bilge and I'm thinking the mast is a big 
>>> contributor, there is a wide open 3/4 inch hole through the mast head 
>>> fitting and the wires to the wind instrument have no loop for a drip leg.  
>>> Add all the drilled holes thru the side with wires coming through, w

Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

The Flex-o-Fold was a 16x12 2-blade.  This was with the Yanmar 3GMF /
2.61:1 transmission.  We replaced the engine with a 3GM30F last year and
that also works really well with the prop.

Thanks,

Tim

On Tue, Feb 9, 2016 at 1:55 PM,  wrote:

> Tim,
>
> What is the pitch on the Flexfold you replaced the Martec with? also was
> it a 16"?
>
> Dave
> C&C 35 MK3
> Saltaire
> Bristol, RI
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Qest plumbing question

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Congratulations Joel!!

On Tue, Feb 9, 2016 at 9:54 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Guys,
>
> Now I have 2 boats with Qest plumbing!  There is a break in a line right
> at a TEE.  Can I just cut off the end, add a coupling to replace the length
> and put it all back together?
>
> I'm not looking to re-plumb the system, just fix what's there.
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List repairing large wet deck core areas

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Peter,

When we (the yard) re-did the side decks on my 35-3, they used divyncell
high density foam.  It has the good compression resistance you need under
the track and will not rot.

Tim

On Mon, Feb 8, 2016 at 9:40 AM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> So I did some digging over the weekend and I can say few things regarding
> deck and core along the genoa tracks for C&C38 mk2 from 1976.
>
> Top laminate is 3/16” thick.  Balsa is ½”.
>
> In my case, wet areas are pretty extensive.  Tapping and sounding the top
> got me to mark out a big rectangular area.  It extends from about 2”
> inboard of the genoa track and its about 12” wide.  It runs the length of
> the track.
>
> There is a 4” wide section of marine ply (also 1/2” thick) under the track
> itself.I wonder if I do the same or just keep balsa.
>
> I posted some horrifying photos on cruisers forum.  Warning, pics are
> pretty disturbing.
>
> http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2039627#post2039627
>
> Haven’t done the bevel yet, and still have about an hour to get all the
> rot out.
>
> As I said on CF, I’ll do epoxy repairs and use the double bias stitch mat
> and toss out the top laminate.   I’ve had enough of polyester.  Its porous
> nowhere near as strong, and if you go to trouble of doing this much work,
> might as well not skimp out on material.  The big question is how to
> transition to gelcoat again?
>
> The cutout is the length of the track so I am not worried about genoa cars
> getting stuck on the track due to deck transitions.
>
>
>
> Petar Horvatic
>
> Sundowner
>
> 76 C&C 38MkII
>
> On the hard at Stanley’s in Barrington
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Hoyt,
> Mike via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 03, 2016 1:23 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List repairing large wet deck core areas
>
>
>
> Petar
>
>
>
> This link shows a recoring project on our former boat
> http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt/Projects/recore/recore.htm
>
>
>
> Initially we had 4 stanchions that had cracked deck (not just gelcoat) at
> the stanchion bases.  The first year I recored these four areas only.  The
> link above details that job.  The following year I had a surveyor check out
> the entire deck and hull for moisture.  We noted the wet areas (all on the
> decks) and replaced the core in all remaining wet areas except the cockpit
> seats (done another year).  This project involved replacing the core under
> the genoa tracks and also under the primary winches among the 14 areas of
> problem.
>
>
>
> When I replace core material I never save the top skin.  However I do know
> a lot of people do and that is your option.  Most of the wet areas on a
> deck are in non skid areas so it is very easy to rebuild your own top skin
> and I find that process a whole lot simpler.  This is my preference but not
> necessarily better nor worse than keeping the top skin and reusing.  The
> two benefits of not reusing top skin are 1. It is more work to remove the
> top skin than to discard it and 2. You may get air voids under the replaced
> top skin if not done well.  The benefits of retaining the top skin are that
> you have the contours of the deck area saved.  This is nice on a coach roof
> for example
>
>
>
> When I start removing the core I normally drill some pilot holes to
> determine how far the wetness and the rot extends.  Typically the rot is
> localized but the moisture travels quite far.  I cut out the area that I
> know is wet and then if I am still in wet core I continue removing until I
> get to dry core.  Note that wet core is not soft.  Rotten core is soft.
> Wet balsa can actually still adhere quite well to the bottom and top skin
> and be strong.  However why would you leave it?  It is not much more work
> to replace core in a 1 x 4 ft section of deck than it is a 6” by 2 ft
> section.
>
>
>
> For an idea of the labour involved compare to a bottom job.  Nut Case our
> J27 took 50 hours to strip the bottom to gel coat (by hand), apply barrier
> coat and then antifoul.  By comparison was only 30 hours to replace four
> sections of core material that same year.
>
>
>
> Note that I have done this job using polyester resins (large areas and
> cost) as well as epoxy.
>
>
>
> If you have any questions do not hesitate to ask.
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Petar Horvatic via
> CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 03, 2016 12:45 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Petar Horvatic
> *Subject:* Stus-List repairing large wet deck core areas
>
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I am getting ready to tackle the wet deck along the port genoa track and
> before I start cutting, I  have few questions for the group.
>
>
>
> Gelcoat cracks and delamination is appearing almost the length of the
> track on my 38 Mk2.   I realize that not all spider cracks are due to wet
> core, 

Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Bill, yes it is.  Please could you check out how you would like to ship?  It 
will be coming from CT or RI depending on when in the next couple of weeks.  
There are Cotter pins and I think a shaft nut, but no shaft key.  It was making 
a nice paper weight in my office, but since I won't have an office in two weeks 
time...

Thanks,

Tim

> On Feb 6, 2016, at 5:50 PM, Bill Blight via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Tim
> I am interested in the Mated offered in your e mail. I currently have a 
> Martec 18 x 10 which is too large of a diameter of a 3GMF engine.  Can you 
> please let me know if this prop is still available.
>  
> Thanks,
> Bill
> CC 35 MkIII
>  
> From: Tim Goodyear via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2016 10:12 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Tim Goodyear
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3
>  
> Sam,
>  
> I have a 2-blade Martec Elliptic 17x10 RH folding prop for a 1" shaft that 
> you are welcome to try out for the cost of shipping (from New England).  It 
> came off my 35-3 with Yanmar 3GMF and 2.2:1 transmission. 
>  
> Fair warning, I replaced it with a flex-o-fold because I wasn't happy with 
> performance in reverse and occasional unbalanced opening (one blade more than 
> another) at low revs...
>  
> Tim
> (ex Mojito; C&C 35-3 Newport, RI)
>  
>> On Wed, Feb 3, 2016 at 11:42 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I have a spare prop I took off when I replaced it with a Max Prop, 17 X 10 
>> RH. We can talk. 
>> https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LKRe8QHE_x8/VrLWbGMeEWI/EKU/Zl7I9s_8bVw/s912-Ic42/IMG_7534.JPG
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C&C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>>  
>>> On 3 February 2016 at 16:35, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Sam,
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> IIRC, I’m swinging a 10x16 Martec elliptical prop.  Good forward 
>>> performance.  Reverse requires a lot of rpms to get a response, but it 
>>> works for me.
>>> 
>>> I’m just a high speed – low drag racer anyway. 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Jake
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Jake Brodersen
>>> 
>>> C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
>>> 
>>> Hampton VA
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sam 
>>> Wheeler via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Wednesday, February 3, 2016 17:08
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: Sam Wheeler 
>>> Subject: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Hi everyone,
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I recently bought a 35-3, and one of the projects it came with was the prop 
>>> had galvanic corrosion and needed to be replaced.  It's a fixed two blade. 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> The previous owners adjusted the pitch on it, apparently from 10 to 8.  
>>> They seemed to think that improved performance but the boatyard is telling 
>>> me that the specs for the boat and engine call for 10.  Does anyone have 
>>> any thoughts on this?
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> Sam
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> -- Forwarded message --
>>> From: Carston Grasvik 
>>> Date: Wed, Feb 3, 2016 at 8:19 AM
>>> Subject: FW: Propeller for C&C 35
>>> To: Sam Wheeler 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Hi Sam,
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> It appears your old prop has an odd pitch to it. The prop I estimated for 
>>> you has a 10 degree pitch which is specified for your boat and engine. 
>>> Please see note below from our prop people and advise what you’d like to do.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Best Regards,
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Carston
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> From: Ernel Elkin [mailto:prop...@pacbell.net] 
>>> Sent: Monday, February 01, 2016 3:47 PM
>>> To: Carston Grasvik
>>> Subject: Propeller for C&C 35
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> HI CARSTON - DAVE MEASURED THE PITCH ON THE 2 BLADE AND IT IS 8"!  
>>> UNFORTUNATELY, THE PROP I FOUND FOR YOU HAD ALREADY BEEN REPITCHED FROM 12 
>>> TO 10 AND CAN NOT BE REPITCHED ANYMORE.  IT WOULD PROBABLY  CRACK.
>>> 
>&

Re: Stus-List Looking at a second boat - must be out of my mind!

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Joel,

We looked at Hylas (46's and 49's) before pulling the trigger on the Tayana 48. 
 Headroom was an issue for the admiral (she is 6'2") and  the feel down below 
was a little cramped due to the wide side decks.  I bet she'll sail well!

Tim

> On Feb 5, 2016, at 4:31 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The admiral and I have been talking about selling my C&C someday and buying a 
> boat that is more comfortable to cruise. I've been watching a Hylas 44 on 
> Yachtworld. After a recent price reduction we made a ridiculous offer that 
> was accepted, so we are headed to Miami this weekend. If we like her and she 
> has no major issues (beyond what the broker told us) the plan is to bring her 
> to Annapolis late March, do the Bermuda race on The Office and then put The 
> Office up for sale.
> 
> Anyone sail a Hylas 44?
> Anyone want to buy a C&C 35/3?
> Anyone up for a delivery (she has a full cockpit enclosure)?
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Sam,

I have a 2-blade Martec Elliptic 17x10 RH folding prop for a 1" shaft that
you are welcome to try out for the cost of shipping (from New England).  It
came off my 35-3 with Yanmar 3GMF and 2.2:1 transmission.

Fair warning, I replaced it with a flex-o-fold because I wasn't happy with
performance in reverse and occasional unbalanced opening (one blade more
than another) at low revs...

Tim
(ex Mojito; C&C 35-3 Newport, RI)

On Wed, Feb 3, 2016 at 11:42 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a spare prop I took off when I replaced it with a Max Prop, 17 X 10
> RH. We can talk.
> https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LKRe8QHE_x8/VrLWbGMeEWI/EKU/Zl7I9s_8bVw/s912-Ic42/IMG_7534.JPG
>
>
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 3 February 2016 at 16:35, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Sam,
>>
>>
>>
>> IIRC, I’m swinging a 10x16 Martec elliptical prop.  Good forward
>> performance.  Reverse requires a lot of rpms to get a response, but it
>> works for me.
>>
>> I’m just a high speed – low drag racer anyway.
>>
>>
>>
>> Jake
>>
>>
>>
>> *Jake Brodersen*
>>
>> *C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>>
>> *Hampton VA*
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Sam
>> Wheeler via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 3, 2016 17:08
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Sam Wheeler 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi everyone,
>>
>>
>>
>> I recently bought a 35-3, and one of the projects it came with was the
>> prop had galvanic corrosion and needed to be replaced.  It's a fixed two
>> blade.
>>
>>
>>
>> The previous owners adjusted the pitch on it, apparently from 10 to 8.
>> They seemed to think that improved performance but the boatyard is telling
>> me that the specs for the boat and engine call for 10.  Does anyone have
>> any thoughts on this?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Sam
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: *Carston Grasvik* 
>> Date: Wed, Feb 3, 2016 at 8:19 AM
>> Subject: FW: Propeller for C&C 35
>> To: Sam Wheeler 
>>
>> Hi Sam,
>>
>>
>>
>> It appears your old prop has an odd pitch to it. The prop I estimated for
>> you has a 10 degree pitch which is specified for your boat and engine.
>> Please see note below from our prop people and advise what you’d like to do.
>>
>>
>>
>> Best Regards,
>>
>>
>>
>> Carston
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Ernel Elkin [mailto:prop...@pacbell.net]
>> *Sent:* Monday, February 01, 2016 3:47 PM
>> *To:* Carston Grasvik
>> *Subject:* Propeller for C&C 35
>>
>>
>>
>> HI CARSTON - DAVE MEASURED THE PITCH ON THE 2 BLADE AND IT IS 8"!
>> UNFORTUNATELY, THE PROP I FOUND FOR YOU HAD ALREADY BEEN REPITCHED FROM 12
>> TO 10 AND CAN NOT BE REPITCHED ANYMORE.  IT WOULD PROBABLY CRACK.
>>
>>
>>
>> I LOOKED AROUND AND FOUND ANOTHER 18"X 10", BUT THE PILOT BORE IS 1-1/8",
>> SO THE CUSTOMER WOULD HAVE TO USE A BUSHING WITH IT AND HAVE IT REPITCHED
>> TO 8".  BUSHING COST IS $74 AND REPITCHING IS $150.
>>
>>
>>
>> KIND OF A WEIRD SIZE.  THE LOWEST PITCH AVAILABLE IS 10".  PLEASE DISCUSS
>> WITH YOUR CUSTOMER.  THANKS.
>>
>>
>>
>> ERNEL
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Raymarine e-Series Chartplotters/MFDs

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

At risk of starting this up again, Fred, can you define what the extra
power / newer features gives you in terms of capabilities?  It looks like
both provide WiFi and my old Garmin 545 was powerful enough to navigate
by.  Like Edd, I was wondering whether the step up in screen size for the e
vs es at roughly the same price was a good trade off.

Thanks,

Tim
not a C&C'er any more, but it is boating related...

On Mon, Jan 11, 2016 at 4:39 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Edd — if you’re looking at the e Series, for about the same $$$ in the
> smaller display sizes I’d recommend looking at the newer eS Series.  It’s a
> more powerful and newer version of the e Series, with the same Hybrid Touch
> interface.
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Jan 11, 2016, at 12:10 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> So I was at the NY Boat Show this past weekend and took a good look at the
> Raymarine e-Series (specifically the e9 one). Built-in GPS and data display
> of other information hooked up to the system (including my new Raymarine
> EV200 autopilot.)
>
> Does anyone have one? Pros? Cons? The price seems very low given all it
> does, especially compared to the cost of my current Garmin GPSMap2006C.
>
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Vessel Documentation - wait time

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

The title handler provided a temporary document with the documentation 
application and bill of sale that they say will suffice.  Let me know if you'd 
like details.

Tim

> On Jan 14, 2016, at 11:04 AM, Evan Morgan  wrote:
> 
> Timely anecdote…
> Just purchased a documented Pearson 424 (sorry guys) in FL. Applied for 
> transfer of doc the day after purchase.
> Just got off the phone with my wife who is in FL trying to register it and 
> the dinghy. We can not register without the USCG document in our name, which 
> currently might show up in May.
> So guess who's prime for a citation if the FL bootjacks board us?
> But hey, the dinghy's registered!
>  
> Evan
> 1978 C&C 26 Wind Affair (soon for sale)
> Indianapolis
> 1983 Pearson 424 Revery
> Merritt Island, FL
>  
>  
> 
> From: Tim Goodyear via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2016 10:46 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Tim Goodyear
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Vessel Documentation
>  
> My wait time currently is 16 weeks!
>  
> Tim
>  
>  
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Vessel Documentation

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

My wait time currently is 16 weeks!

Tim

On Thu, Jan 14, 2016 at 10:42 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The wait times vary constantly and WIDELY. The documentation center has a
> page with CURRENT wait times for each type of application. The page tells
> you what date they are currently working upon.
>
> Here is everything you need to know about documentation. This information
> supercedes any information  you get from any other source:
>
> http://www.uscg.mil/hq/cg5/nvdc/
>
> And here is the page of wait times:
>
> http://www.uscg.mil/hq/cg5/nvdc/nvdcprocessdate.asp
>
> Bill Bina
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Vessel Documentation

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Chuck,

I though there was an annual renewal fee of $26 as of last year?

Tim


> On Jan 13, 2016, at 9:37 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> My boat is documented w USCG.  The initial doc fee was $80 to change the 
> owner's name and hailing port, than the annual renewal is free. 
> Here in NJ, I have to renew state registration each year and pay that fee, 
> but I don't have to display the state numbers on the bow.   Asthetics.
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> 
> 
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki NOWFUEL CHARACTERISTICS

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

I have a six gallon gas tank that has a groove across the bottom. That
makes it a great fit for tying to the pushpit with the lower rail in that
groove.

Tim

On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 10:20 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> +1
>
> Dinghy gas is in the dinghy.
>
> I once got to listen to speech about how dangerous my Atomic 4 was from
> the skipper of a Cabo Rico with diesel power. He then proceeded to dig a
> Clorox bottle full of gasoline out of the engine room to fuel his dinghy!
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Stus List - Raymarine Combo on sale again

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

And to add another question - how different are the HD vs regular and 24"
vs 18" versions in real-world use (assuming you're not fishing and don't
need the 'bird view' function)?  This is great information - thank you!

Tim

On Tue, Dec 29, 2015 at 2:23 PM, Headgorilla via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks for discussing the Raymarine equipment, I am going into the NY boat
> show next week to see my electronics people and probably but a package due
> to all the rebates and discounts they offer, so I appreciate your
> experience on this subjectI am listening.
>
> One Question: where the best spot to mount the Radar antenna, on the Mast?
> or off a pole on the stern?
>
> Mike Dolan
> 1979 34' C&C "Skywalker"
> Southold, NY
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
> Sent: Tue, Dec 29, 2015 2:15 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus List - Raymarine Combo on sale again
>
> I believe the C series units also rely on NMEA 0183 networking language
> where A, E series and newer will be NMEA 2000 and can network more readily
> with peripherals such as wind, speed, depth, and autopilot.  I’d check to
> see what’s on your boat with regards to the peripherals and that may make a
> difference in your decision making process.  Don’t try to mix and match
> instrument brands or operating language otherwise you will spend all your
> sailing time trying to make the instruments talk to each other and at best,
> functionality will be limited.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1975 25 Mk 1
>
> S/V Orion
> 1983 35 Landfall
> Padanaram, MA
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Frederick G Street via
> CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 29, 2015 1:03 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Frederick G Street 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Stus List - Raymarine Combo on sale again
>
> Sure!  The eS Series is the newest MFD from Raymarine, and is basically an
> updated, more powerful version of the e Series, with both touchscreen and
> hard controls.  I would definitely recommend the eS over the e if you’re
> looking to buy today, particularly at the 7” size where there’s not much
> difference at all in price.
>
> The Raymarine c Series has NO touchscreen capability whatsoever; just
> buttons.  I’d put it at the bottom of the heap in terms of power and
> functionality.
>
> How’s that?   :^)
>
> Happy New Year, all!
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V *Oceanis* (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>
> On Dec 29, 2015, at 11:22 AM, Tim Goodyear  wrote:
>
> Fred, thank you for that summary - I've been trying to work out what the
> differences between the Raymarine models amount to in the real world.
> Would you care to expand your descriptions to include the "c" and "es"
> ranges too?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Tim
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Stus List - Raymarine Combo on sale again

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Fred, thank you for that summary - I've been trying to work out what the
differences between the Raymarine models amount to in the real world.
Would you care to expand your descriptions to include the "c" and "es"
ranges too?

Thanks!

Tim

On Tue, Dec 29, 2015 at 11:38 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Danny — the e Series has what Raymarine calls Hybrid Touch, where you have
> a touchscreen along with hard controls to manage the MFD.  The a Series is
> touchscreen ONLY; there are no hard controls with the exception of the
> on/off switch.
>
> All the Raymarine MFDs should work with the same set of
> tablets/smartphones, as they all use the same firmware/OS.  Then the
> Raymarine app for the mobile device does the work locally.  The
> compatibility list for the e Series probably hasn’t been updated as
> recently as the a Series, as the a Series is newer.
>
> CHIRP may be an advantage if you’re planning on fishing a lot…   :^)
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Dec 28, 2015, at 11:41 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hello again,
>
> I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on this package but I notice a
> similar package with the A78 for $110 more.
>
> Can anyone help with the differences and benefits of one over the other
> fur a sail boat!
>
> I see the a78 has that chirp technology and seems compatible with more
> tablets and smart phones than just the apple reference of the e7D.
>
> Thanks for any insights
> Danny
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Folding prop for 30-1 with A4

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

I also have a used Martec available.  It has been a nice decoration in my
office since I switched it for a Flex-o-Fold a few years back, but it does
still work (just not in reverse...).  It's for a 1" shaft and free with
shipping costs to a good home.

Tim
Branford, CT

On Wed, Dec 23, 2015 at 9:41 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> There is a used Martec on Annapolis Craigslist. No relationship to the
> seller.
> Joel
>
>
> On Wednesday, December 23, 2015, S Thomas via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Agree also.
>> I replaced the original Michigan Wheel 2 blade on my 27 with a 2 blade
>> geared Gori and got better "traction" in reverse, due I think to the
>> increased surface area.
>>
>> Steve Thomas
>> C&C27 MKIII
>> Port Stanley, ON
>>
>> C&C36 MKI
>> Merritt Island, FL
>>
>> - Original Message - From: "ahycrace--- via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> To: 
>> Cc: 
>> Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2015 20:47
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding prop for 30-1 with A4
>>
>>
>> I agree I have a max prop 2 blade and reverse is just incredible it's
>>> like a tug boat is backing you up.
>>>
>>> Gary Kolc
>>> 1976 38' MKII
>>> Liberty
>>>  Indigo via CnC-List  wrote:
>>>
  "No two blade prop will do very well in reverse although I would get a
 geared one so that you can be sure that it opened."

 Have to disagree with this statement. My 35-III with a two blade
 Max-prop goes very well in reverse. In fact in tight situations I often
 prefer to extract myself in reverse!

 --
 Jonathan
 Indigo C&C 35III
 SOUTHPORT CT

 > On Dec 22, 2015, at 10:10, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List > <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
 >
 > No two blade prop will do very well in reverse although I would get a
 > geared one so that you can be sure that it opened.

 ___

 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Lines led forward

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

I think it depends on boat setup.  On Mojito, primarily used for racing,
the bulkheads were only cushioned by the many rope tails - main halyard, 2
x genoa halyards, 2 x spinnaker halyards, 2 x reef lines, cunningham, baby
stay, outhaul, pole lift and foreguy (led to both sides) = 13 lines.  Pit
was a busy place at mark roundings, but at least they didn't have to trim
the main sheet up there too.  Reefing was a two-person job; someone at the
mast hooking on the dog bones and someone in the cockpit managing halyard
and clew lines.

On Sirenia (cruising only), the genoa / staysail halyards are led to
clutches / winches on the mast (where they will be very seldom touched),
with only the outhaul, main halyard and vang led back to the cockpit.
Three reef lines and a topping lift are available at the mast winches too.
Reefing should be a one-person job (the main halyard goes through a clutch
on the mast.

Tim

Tim Goodyear
ex-C&C

On Mon, Dec 21, 2015 at 11:06 AM, David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Andy,
>
> We have main sheet, main halyard, reef lines, outhaul, pole topping lift
> and pole foreguy leading aft.
>
> Sounds like a lot, but it stays fairly organized and out of the way for
> the most part.
>
> Never had a reason to remove or add more.
>
> I have no problem going forward to attach luff cringle to hook.   Need to
> sort out the extra reefed sail on the boom anyway.
>
> Merry Christmas and Happy New Years to all.
>
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
> > Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2015 08:35:18 -0500
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Stus-List Lines led forward
> > From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > CC: a.burton.sai...@gmail.com
>
> >
> > I wonder, am I alone in the group leading lines forward? The only lines
> I'm going to have coming aft to the cabin top will be the mainsheet and the
> traveler lines...and I'm thinking of eliminating the traveler all together.
> I just don't want all that extra spaghetti in the cockpit. Bulkheads are
> for leaning against on my cruising boat!
> > I hate single line reeling; there's just too much friction in the system
> for boats over 30' so I'm going to be at the mast when I reef, anyway. And
> I want to be there to see how the sail comes down or clear any fouls as it
> goes up, so I like being forward to hoist and drop the halyard.
> > This whole business of leading everything aft started with singlehanded
> race boats and for good reason, given how they sail. But my autopilot--or
> wife--keeps the boat head-to-wind just fine as I hoist.
> > So what's the opposite thinking from the assembled brain trust here?
> > Hope everyone has a very merry Christmas and a happy and prosperous New
> Year filled with lots of wonderful days sailing.
> >
> > Andy
> > C&C 40
> > Peregrine
> > Newport, RI
> >
> > Andrew Burton
> > 61 W Narragansett
> > Newport, RI
> > USA 02840
> >
> > http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> > +401 965-5260
> > ___
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> >
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
>  This
> email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
> www.avast.com
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
> <#151c54bd4ff11726_DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Refrigeration on C&C 35 mk III

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Hi Sam,

I installed the Isotherm 3751SP on Mojito (a 1984 35-3).  This is the
holding plate version, but is 'passively' water cooled through a heat
exchanger in the sink drain.  Like others, the compressor (variable speed,
so very easy on the batteries) is installed in the lazarette on the
bulkhead just behind the ice box with plumbing entering the ice box from
the sink cupboard.  Fitting the through hull was easy; the hull near the
sink drain is solid glass, no core.

I would think a DC unit would give you more flexibility; the above unit
senses when you're on shore power or engine and charging the batteries and
makes maximum use of power available, then switches to an economy mode when
on battery only.  We had two group 27's and would be fine for a week's
cruise with moderate daily use of the engine for charging.

Like Jake, I only added insulation to the top of the box.  We used to get
condensation forming there before we added the refrigeration - there is
zero insulation unless someone has changed it since new.

Thanks,

Tim


On Mon, Dec 14, 2015 at 9:37 PM, Sam Wheeler via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> I'm new here.  I recently purchased the 1984 C&C 35 mk III Spanish
> Dancer.  My goal was to find a boat that would be comfortable enough to
> live on and capable enough to be fun to sail in San Francisco Bay - I'm
> extremely excited about this one.  I've been sailing since I was a kid but
> this is my first (non-dinghy) boat of my own, so I expect I'll be boring
> you all with a lot of stupid questions over the next few months.
>
> First up: Refrigeration.  My boat doesn't have it.  Has anyone added
> refrigeration to a 35-3?  How's the stock insulation in the ice chest?  Any
> suggestions on what works or doesn't?
>
> Since I think it will be relatively rare for me to spend more than a night
> away from the slip and shore power, one thought I had was going with a
> holding plate system to run off shore power - maybe even an AC system.
> That would keep the load off my batteries, I wouldn't have to listen to the
> compressor running as often, and it should store enough cooling in the
> plate to last for daysails and short trips away from the dock.
>
> On the other hand, I'm thinking about the number of projects I have lined
> up, and the simplicity and relative low cost of a CoolMatic single unit kit
> starts to look pretty appealing.  Has anyone used that or something
> similar?  I'm a little concerned about the effect on efficiency of putting
> the compressor (which presumably runs warm) directly next to the box with
> what looks like minimal insulation between it and the evaporator.
>
> Here's the CooMatic kit I'm looking at:
> http://www.westmarine.com/buy/waeco-adler-barbour--coolmatic-cooling-conversion-kit--7895881
>
> Focusing on air cooling at the moment.  I'd rather listen to compressor
> noise and draw a little more shore power than put a new thru-hull in.
>
> Thanks in advance!  I've been lurking for a week or so and this seems like
> a great community.
>
> Sam
>
> Spanish Dancer
> C&C 35 mk III
> San Francisco
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Doyle Stack Pack or Mack Pack? - Now Dutchman

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

I have a dutchman system on my new boat, so was looking at this yesterday.
There is no absolute limit on roach or requirement for a topping lift
(there is a need for a line between mast head and boom end, so maybe that's
semantics).  With the Tides Marine track and dutchman, the main disappears
in seconds!

http://www.doylesails.com/downloads/DutchmanOwnersManual.pdf

Tim


On Fri, Dec 11, 2015 at 10:11 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I guess I need a bit of education from the list.
>
>
>
> The boats that I have been on that have a Dutchman flaking system (which
> is only 1 or 2) have all had the top of the vertical (monofilament?) lines
> that the sail slides down attached to the topping lift.  I thought this was
> the norm. Dwight’s post implies that this isn’t true.
>
>
>
> I’d considered putting a Dutchman system on Imzadi since I’m now mostly a
> cruiser, and dousing seems easy and slick without the hassles you end up
> with when you have lazy jacks and sail battens. I view the downsides of the
> Dutchman system to be the additional cost of making the sail, the fact that
> you need a topping lift (which is a PITA and seems to be tangled in the
> backstay every time you tack in light air), and you have a main with
> reduced roach (maybe that should be “you can’t maximize the roach”) because
> of the need for the leech to be under the topping lift.
>
>
>
> Just what IS the normal arrangement for a Dutchman?
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *dwight
> veinot via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, December 11, 2015 8:32 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* dwight veinot 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Doyle Stack Pack or Mack Pack?
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> The main sail that was on Alianna when I purchased was fitted with a
> Dutchman flaking system.  It worked OK but occasionally it would get caught
> up in the topping lift at the head of the sail
>
>
> Dwight Veinot
>
> C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
>
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C 35-3 items for sale - and thank you!

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Thanks Mike, it is a sad moment, but a) I get to see her / sail on or
against her if I'm in Boston and b) I have a lot to concentrate on with the
new boat, a Tayana 48.  Let's hope the TOG (Tayana Owners Group) is
anywhere near as knowledgeable as this.

Tim

On Wed, Dec 9, 2015 at 3:14 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Sad to hear that you are moving on from Mojito Tim but glad to hear it is
> going to a good home.  Their website makes the Courageous Sailing program
> look like a great endeavor
>
>
>
> Hope all is well with life after sailing (or at least life after C&C)
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List C&C 35-3 items for sale - and thank you!

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

My C&C 35-3, Mojito will be living up in Boston with Courageous Sailing (a
great organization if you ever come across them) next year as part of their
boat donation program.  Courageous has been kind to me and my crew over the
years (including rescuing us after a de-masting in a prior boat and
teaching many friends' families how to sail).

It has been great meeting people on this list - either virtually or (much
better) in-person at a couple of the NE Rendezvous's.  This list is an
amazing resource for C&C owners and for boat maintenance advice in general
- I hope you don't mind if I lurk for a while...  Thank you for the advice,
assistance and encouragement!

There are a couple of items (listed below) that won't be going with the
boat and I will put up for sale separately - please let me know if you're
interested off list and we can review price.

Thank you,

Tim

Tim Goodyear
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

   - Boom tent boat cover - Miller Marine Canvas Mustang 9oz cloth (Nov
   2012).  Designed for use with the mast stepped (using the boom and
   spinnaker poles for support) with a flap over the toe rail.  Used only one
   winter (because the mast was not stepped the other winters for various
   reasons).  Courageous store all their boats with mast out, so they have no
   need.  Original cost $2,500.
   - #2 Genoa - North Sails 145% 3DL 14,700 DPI (May 2015) in sausage bag.
   Used ~3 hours  Cut for 35/3 Furlex Furler, but with no UV cover.  Original
   cost $5,505.
   - S1.5 Spinnaker (0.5oz) - North Sails S1.5 Airx 600N Red / White in
   North launcher bag (June 2015).  Used ~2 hours.  Original cost $4,050.
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Barient 32ST

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

And if anyone is looking for some 28's (not self tailing) - I removed these
from Mojito last season: https://newhaven.craigslist.org/bpo/5326347630.html
.

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

On Tue, Dec 1, 2015 at 3:28 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Another pair of Barients on EBay.
>
>
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/181948177579?item=181948177579&viewitem=&vxp=mtr
>
>
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C&C 39 Erie, PA
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Ray marine AutoPilot and Garmin GPS

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Hi Edd,

My Raymarine SPX-5 wheel pilot has a follow-route option.  It gets that
route via NMEA 1083 from my Garmin plotter.  If that can do it, you can!
One proviso is that I have to hit "acknowledge" at each waypoint arrival on
the pilot controller in order for it to continue on to the next one.  The
only connection I had to make was the NMEA output on my plotter to the
input on a Seatalk instrument with that feature (I think the pilot
controller did, but I used an ST60+ multi-display because it was closer).

Tim

Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

Sirenia
Tayana 48
Portsmouth, RI

On Wed, Nov 11, 2015 at 10:51 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> For my 50th Birthday (yikes!) next year, my wife has purchased a Raymarine
> EV200 Sailpack autopilot for the Enterprise. I can’t wait until Spring to
> do the install.
>
> Although I’ll be more than happy to just punch in a heading and let the
> boat drive itself, I was wondering if I could go a step further. Does
> anyone know if it is possible (and if so, how) to connect my Garmin
> GPSMap2006C to the “brain” of the autopilot so that they can talk to each
> other? I’d love to be able to plug in a route and have the autopilot change
> heading once a waypoint is reached.
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Dimension Polyant Hydranet Radial sailcloth

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Joel, which sailmaker?  I wasn't planning on new sails this year, but a
great deal on HydraNet would be good to look at...

Thanks,

Tim

On Tue, Nov 3, 2015 at 6:58 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> All,
>
> I'm about to order a new tri-radial main.  My sailmaker is offering a
> ridiculous promo price on a sail made with HydraNet.
>
> The other option is Challenger Warp Drive.
>
> Recommendations?
>
> Joel
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Changing oil filter Yanmar 3gmf

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

The ziplock bag helps.  If you want to have less oil in the filter, punching a 
hole in the top with a screwdriver before you drain the oil also helps, but 
there will be something to wipe up in any case.

Tim

> On Oct 31, 2015, at 8:41 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> One neat trick I learned at a diesel clinic is, slide a gallon zip lock up 
> around the filter & then unscrew it letting it drip into the bag, then drop 
> the filter into the bag and seal.
> 
> 
> 
> Bill Coleman 
> C&C39
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Indigo via CnC-List  
> Date: 10/31/2015 8:16 AM (GMT-05:00) 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Indigo  
> Subject: Stus-List Changing oil filter Yanmar 3gmf 
> 
> I will be winterizing indigo tomorrow. I am looking for help from this 
> amazing group on techniques used to change the oil filter while minimizing 
> drips and spills.  I don't seem to be able to get the old filter off without 
> dripping oil down the side of the engine. What am I doing wrong?
> 
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C&C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Boom Furling complications

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

NEB is $44/ft storage, washing plus $4/ft blocking; I will be there this
winter.  There is a list member who should be pretty knowledgeable about
NEB for input on treatment of clients.  They have been very helpful to me
so far.

Tim

On Thu, Oct 29, 2015 at 4:45 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> thats not much more than what FL Tripp wants.
>
> Do they store mast up?
>
> Maybe you're going to see me there...  it is actually no further timewise
> from my house and probably a few less miles
>
> Danny
>
> -- Original Message --
> From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Cc: Andrew Burton 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Furling complications
> Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2015 16:03:40 -0400
>
> Hinckley is 433/ft for dry storage plus 11/ft for haul and wash. NEB is
> about the same.
> I'm going to NEB rather than some of the other options around the bay
> because they don't do anything in a slipshod manner. I know there are some
> places that do.
> Caveat emptor!
>
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
>
> On Thu, Oct 29, 2015 at 3:56 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> So, I'm looking around, does anyone know anything about the Borden Light
>> Marina.  They have some good reviews on Active captain an another couple of
>> sites but, anyone could write those.
>>
>> Their rates are really cheap at $18/ft for wet storage and $33/ft for on
>> land storage.  Thats a 3-4 hour trip for me by boat but, closer to drive
>> from the house.
>>
>> Danny
>> Westport Point, MA
>>
>>
>> -- Original Message --
>> From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>> Cc: Joel Aronson 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Furling complications
>> Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2015 15:27:59 -0400
>>
>> Danny,
>>
>> I assume you have projects to do over the winter.  Close to home helps
>> get things done.
>> Wet store where you are and arrange for a haul-out and to have the bottom
>> work to be done in the early spring.  You'll be blocking the lift, so they
>> will have to turn it around quickly.
>>
>> Joel
>>
>> On Thu, Oct 29, 2015 at 3:21 PM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Danny,
>>>
>>> New England Boatworks in Portsmouth, RI allows storage with the mast up
>>> (and there's someone on the list that knows a lot about that location).
>>> That's pretty close to Westport Point.
>>>
>>> Tim
>>>
>>> On Thu, Oct 29, 2015 at 3:06 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi All,
>>>>
>>>> So, it seems the yard said they cannot remove the mast because of the
>>>> sail track that rides up the mast track for the furling system.
>>>>
>>>> I basically have two options where they are concerned.  Find another
>>>> yard for storage or, wet store the boat in a slip.
>>>>
>>>> I don't think I would mind the wet storage option if she wasn't in such
>>>> a need for a bottom job.
>>>>
>>>> What do you guys think?
>>>>
>>>> The reason they cannot remove the mast is because they use a sling and
>>>> the sling would damage the track...
>>>>
>>>> Maybe someone can recommend a place nearby where I can store her on the
>>>> hard.  i know not every yard requires the removal of the mast.
>>>>
>>>> Danny
>>>> Westport Point, MA
>>>> ___
>>>>
>>>> Email address:
>>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>>> bottom of page at:
>>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett Ave
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> phone  +401 965 5260
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Boom Furling complications

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Danny,

New England Boatworks in Portsmouth, RI allows storage with the mast up
(and there's someone on the list that knows a lot about that location).
That's pretty close to Westport Point.

Tim

On Thu, Oct 29, 2015 at 3:06 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> So, it seems the yard said they cannot remove the mast because of the sail
> track that rides up the mast track for the furling system.
>
> I basically have two options where they are concerned.  Find another yard
> for storage or, wet store the boat in a slip.
>
> I don't think I would mind the wet storage option if she wasn't in such a
> need for a bottom job.
>
> What do you guys think?
>
> The reason they cannot remove the mast is because they use a sling and the
> sling would damage the track...
>
> Maybe someone can recommend a place nearby where I can store her on the
> hard.  i know not every yard requires the removal of the mast.
>
> Danny
> Westport Point, MA
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Barient ST 32's

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Josh,

I don't have a need for the winch - if you want it for parts, it's yours if
you cover the shipping (which I don't know cost of).  Please let me know
address off list if you want to proceed.

Thanks,

Tim

On Mon, Oct 26, 2015 at 9:55 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'll take the spare parts but I'd also recommend getting it fixed.  A
> local machinist did mine for me.  Here are some pictures.
>
> https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yZHVtUmhnX2xFR2s/edit
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Oct 26, 2015 9:25 AM, "Tim Goodyear via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I have a Barient 19ST, but it has a small problem...  The boat yard
>> dropped the line stripper overboard when servicing the winch a couple of
>> years back.  It too me up to now to get in touch with Allen Hutton at
>> Australian Winch PTY and that part would have to be fabricated @$375!  Does
>> anyone have any use for any spare parts before I throw the rest away?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Sep 9, 2015 at 12:00 PM, S Thomas via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> The self tailing version of a Barient 18 is a Barient 19, and I would
>>> like to find them too.
>>> They are a very useful size, in high demand, and don't come up for sale
>>> very often.
>>>
>>> Steve Thomas
>>>
>>> - Original Message -
>>> *From:* Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
>>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> *Cc:* Kevin Driscoll 
>>> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 09, 2015 10:09
>>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Barient ST 32's
>>>
>>> I am still looking for a Barient 18 self tailer or similar, if anyone
>>> knows of one.
>>>
>>> Kevin
>>>
>>> On Tue, Sep 8, 2015, 6:02 PM Paul Baker via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I fitted them to my 24 and they worked fine, were a struggle to get on
>>>> but that meant they never slipped.
>>>> Cheers
>>>> Paul
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>>> Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2015 17:08:15 -0300
>>>>
>>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient ST 32's
>>>> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>>> CC: rtaill...@eastlink.ca
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I have them on my 25 and they work great.  They came on a pair of
>>>> Barient 18s that I traded for another pair of winches I had  and some
>>>> splicing jobs.
>>>>
>>>> I don’t know what size they are but they almost look a size too small
>>>> for the winches, maybe that’s why I haven’t had the slippage problems that
>>>> some people have had.  There is no way I could get my normal sheets in the
>>>> outer groove but my light air ones do fit.  I use 5/16” sheets and the key
>>>> is to get three full wraps on the winch then grind it in to jam the top
>>>> wrap against the bottom of the Wincher, if I don’t do that the sheet will
>>>> back off.  I like them because you can take in the majority of the sheet
>>>> before the load comes on then put on the third wrap and finish trimming in
>>>> the sail with one hand, great for single handed sailing.  I still have to
>>>> deal with the sheet as it comes off the winch but I can crank it in a
>>>> couple turns before it gets around to the front of the winch, if you have
>>>> someone to tail this is a non-issue.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Rick Taillieu
>>>>
>>>> Nemesis
>>>>
>>>> '75 C&C 25  #371
>>>>
>>>> Shearwater Yacht Club
>>>>
>>>> Halifax, NS.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
>>>> *Marek
>>>> Dziedzic via CnC-List
>>>> *Sent:* September-07-15 19:16
>>>> *To:* C&C List
>>>> *Cc:* Marek Dziedzic
>>>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Barient ST 32's
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I had them on my C&C 24 and I could not make them to work. I removed
>>>> them.
>&g

Re: Stus-List Barient ST 32's

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Hi all,

I have a Barient 19ST, but it has a small problem...  The boat yard dropped
the line stripper overboard when servicing the winch a couple of years
back.  It too me up to now to get in touch with Allen Hutton at Australian
Winch PTY and that part would have to be fabricated @$375!  Does anyone
have any use for any spare parts before I throw the rest away?

Thanks,

Tim


On Wed, Sep 9, 2015 at 12:00 PM, S Thomas via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The self tailing version of a Barient 18 is a Barient 19, and I would like
> to find them too.
> They are a very useful size, in high demand, and don't come up for sale
> very often.
>
> Steve Thomas
>
> - Original Message -
> *From:* Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Kevin Driscoll 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 09, 2015 10:09
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Barient ST 32's
>
> I am still looking for a Barient 18 self tailer or similar, if anyone
> knows of one.
>
> Kevin
>
> On Tue, Sep 8, 2015, 6:02 PM Paul Baker via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I fitted them to my 24 and they worked fine, were a struggle to get on
>> but that meant they never slipped.
>> Cheers
>> Paul
>>
>> --
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2015 17:08:15 -0300
>>
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient ST 32's
>> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> CC: rtaill...@eastlink.ca
>>
>>
>> I have them on my 25 and they work great.  They came on a pair of Barient
>> 18s that I traded for another pair of winches I had  and some splicing jobs.
>>
>> I don’t know what size they are but they almost look a size too small for
>> the winches, maybe that’s why I haven’t had the slippage problems that some
>> people have had.  There is no way I could get my normal sheets in the outer
>> groove but my light air ones do fit.  I use 5/16” sheets and the key is to
>> get three full wraps on the winch then grind it in to jam the top wrap
>> against the bottom of the Wincher, if I don’t do that the sheet will back
>> off.  I like them because you can take in the majority of the sheet before
>> the load comes on then put on the third wrap and finish trimming in the
>> sail with one hand, great for single handed sailing.  I still have to deal
>> with the sheet as it comes off the winch but I can crank it in a couple
>> turns before it gets around to the front of the winch, if you have someone
>> to tail this is a non-issue.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick Taillieu
>>
>> Nemesis
>>
>> '75 C&C 25  #371
>>
>> Shearwater Yacht Club
>>
>> Halifax, NS.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Marek
>> Dziedzic via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* September-07-15 19:16
>> *To:* C&C List
>> *Cc:* Marek Dziedzic
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Barient ST 32's
>>
>>
>>
>> I had them on my C&C 24 and I could not make them to work. I removed
>> them.
>>
>>
>>
>> But ymmv.
>>
>>
>>
>> Marek
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my Samsung device over Bell's LTE network.
>>
>>
>>
>>  Original message 
>> From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
>> Date: 2015-09-07 18:07 (GMT-05:00)
>> To: CnC CnC discussion list 
>> Cc: David Knecht 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient ST 32's
>>
>> What about $50 for Winchers (
>> http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C118%7C2358547%7C2358555&id=899493
>> )?
>> I am considering trying one for one of my cabin top small secondaries.  I
>> have read that they work.  Dave
>>
>>
>>
>> Aries
>>
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>>
>> New London, CT
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sep 7, 2015, at 5:05 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> Pairs of used self tailers on eBay go for $1000-1800 depending on size.
>> (There's a pair of 60 ST's out there now for $1700.)
>>
>> Winchmates are ~$550 each.  That's $1100 a pair.
>>
>> Good used non-self tailers sell for $300-800 on eBay depending on size
>> and condition.
>>
>> I upgraded Touche's primary, secondary and cabin top winches from alloy
>> to chrome bronze.  Net cost for 2 Barlow 28's, 2 Barlow 26's and 2
>> stainless Barient 22's (all used non ST's) was around $600.  Paid $1100 for
>> the "new" ones and sold two pairs of the old ones on eBay for $500 and
>> tossed a pair of 28's in the dumpster.
>>
>>
>>
>> Just saying
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Sep 7, 2015 at 3:13 PM, Harry Hallgring via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Bill,
>>
>> Yes, that is probably what I will do for my primaries.
>>
>> Harry
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>
>> On Sep 7, 2015, at 11:07 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> These?
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.winchmate.com/store.html
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>>
>> C&C 39
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>

Re: Stus-List Sale Tools

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Wow - that is a great price.  I have Raymarine speed / depth on my new boat
(no wind instrument at all), a Garmin plotter and Furuno radar.  It would
be worth replacing the speed / depth to get a modern package that
integrates natively with the plotter at that price.  Please let me know
what you find about the vendor.

Thanks,

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

On Mon, Oct 19, 2015 at 9:19 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm actually considering this:
>
> http://www.sale-tools.com/products/Garmin-Ultimate-Sailing-Bundle-GWS%252dDST800%252d3-GMI.html
>
> My concern is just the reputation of the vendor, not so much the product.
>
> Cheers,
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto/Midland
>
>
> On Mon, Oct 19, 2015 at 9:00 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Sorry – just re-read this.  Thought the prices were from Defender.
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Hoyt,
>> Mike via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Monday, October 19, 2015 9:56 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike
>>
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Sale Tools
>>
>>
>>
>> Steve
>>
>>
>>
>> The ST60 instruments are very reliable.  At  that price you should stop
>> thinking and start spending.  You will not regret it
>>
>>
>>
>> IMO the ST60 series is more robust and superior to the newer i50/i60
>> (which we have)
>>
>>
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Persistence
>>
>> Halifax
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
>> ] *On Behalf Of *dwight veinot via
>> CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Sunday, October 18, 2015 1:59 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* dwight veinot
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Sale Tools
>>
>>
>>
>> Steve
>>
>> I have had the st 60 pack on Alianna for 7 or 8 years now and I really
>> like it, big numbers easy to read and no big issues with any component
>> yet.  that is a very good price
>>
>>
>> Dwight Veinot
>>
>> C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
>>
>> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>>
>> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Oct 17, 2015 at 2:47 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hi, anyone ever buy anything from sale-tools.com?
>>
>>
>> http://www.sale-tools.com/categories/Marine-Electronics/Fishfinders%7B47%7DChartplotters/
>>
>>
>>
>> Their prices on marine electronics are unbelievable (literally). Seems
>> fishy but I figured it's worth asking. Some of their stuff is older so it
>> makes sense that it would be cheap (ST60 three pack for ~700 etc).
>>
>>
>>
>> Thoughts?
>>
>>
>>
>> Steve
>>
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>>
>> Midland
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Recycling old dodger

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

The height is 39"

> On Oct 17, 2015, at 11:25 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Tim
>  
> We might be interested in giving these a good home.  Can you please advise 
> the vertical dimension from the deck fitting to the peak of the bow?  Will 
> measure ours tomorrow to see what will fit
>  
>  
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C&C 34
> Noank, CT
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim 
> Goodyear via CnC-List
> Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2015 3:12 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Tim Goodyear
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Recycling old dodger
>  
> The stainless dodger bows are 79" across, and here are some photographs:
>  
> https://goo.gl/photos/Rpo3E8DA25y8vNYf7
>  
> Available to a good home if any use to anyone.  All stitching needs to be 
> replaced, but the cloth is not bad and it's a fair template to base a new one 
> one.
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> Tim
> Mojito
> C&C 35-3
> Branford, CT
>  
> On Tue, Oct 13, 2015 at 4:54 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Tim,
> 
> Post the width of the bow as a start.  I don't need it but I recycled one off 
> a Pearson 365 for my aft Bimini.  Creatively mounted it on the stern pulpit 
> to get the right height.
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> On Oct 13, 2015 3:47 PM, "Tim Goodyear via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> I replaced the dodger on my 35-3 earlier this year with a different shaped 
> version and now have the old bows sitting in my garden.  Does anyone know if 
> they would be useful to anyone rather than throwing them away?  I have the 
> old dodger too - the cloth is OK'ish, but *all* the stitching disintegrated 
> at the same time.
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> Tim
> Soon to be an ex-C&C owner (I hope you'll still let me lurk)
> Branford, CT
>  
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
>   
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. 
> www.avast.com
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Recycling old dodger

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Hi John,

There are a couple of people interested so far - one of whom may be
challenged by fit and the other by shipping, so I'll let you know if those
don't work out.

Thanks,

Tim

On Sat, Oct 17, 2015 at 11:25 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Tim
>
>
>
> We might be interested in giving these a good home.  Can you please advise
> the vertical dimension from the deck fitting to the peak of the bow?  Will
> measure ours tomorrow to see what will fit
>
>
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C&C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim
> Goodyear via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Saturday, October 17, 2015 3:12 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Tim Goodyear
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Recycling old dodger
>
>
>
> The stainless dodger bows are 79" across, and here are some photographs:
>
>
>
> https://goo.gl/photos/Rpo3E8DA25y8vNYf7
>
>
>
> Available to a good home if any use to anyone.  All stitching needs to be
> replaced, but the cloth is not bad and it's a fair template to base a new
> one one.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Tim
>
> Mojito
>
> C&C 35-3
>
> Branford, CT
>
>
>
> On Tue, Oct 13, 2015 at 4:54 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Tim,
>
> Post the width of the bow as a start.  I don't need it but I recycled one
> off a Pearson 365 for my aft Bimini.  Creatively mounted it on the stern
> pulpit to get the right height.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Oct 13, 2015 3:47 PM, "Tim Goodyear via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I replaced the dodger on my 35-3 earlier this year with a different shaped
> version and now have the old bows sitting in my garden.  Does anyone know
> if they would be useful to anyone rather than throwing them away?  I have
> the old dodger too - the cloth is OK'ish, but *all* the stitching
> disintegrated at the same time.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Tim
>
> Soon to be an ex-C&C owner (I hope you'll still let me lurk)
>
> Branford, CT
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
>
> --
> [image: Avast logo] <https://www.avast.com/antivirus>
>
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/antivirus>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Recycling old dodger

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

The stainless dodger bows are 79" across, and here are some photographs:

https://goo.gl/photos/Rpo3E8DA25y8vNYf7

Available to a good home if any use to anyone.  All stitching needs to be
replaced, but the cloth is not bad and it's a fair template to base a new
one one.

Thanks,

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

On Tue, Oct 13, 2015 at 4:54 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Tim,
>
> Post the width of the bow as a start.  I don't need it but I recycled one
> off a Pearson 365 for my aft Bimini.  Creatively mounted it on the stern
> pulpit to get the right height.
>
> Dennis C.
> On Oct 13, 2015 3:47 PM, "Tim Goodyear via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I replaced the dodger on my 35-3 earlier this year with a different
>> shaped version and now have the old bows sitting in my garden.  Does anyone
>> know if they would be useful to anyone rather than throwing them away?  I
>> have the old dodger too - the cloth is OK'ish, but *all* the stitching
>> disintegrated at the same time.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Tim
>> Soon to be an ex-C&C owner (I hope you'll still let me lurk)
>> Branford, CT
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

It's nice to be holding the wheel when you engage / disengage, so at the helm 
is my preference too.

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

> On Oct 17, 2015, at 8:12 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> FWIW mine is in the pod. Very happy with it there. 
> Joel
> 
>> On Saturday, October 17, 2015, Dave Syer via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> winter project 32a:  upgrade electronics  ('85 c&c33ii)
>> 
>> Am removing the vintage B&G hunter depth and speed instruments, replacing 
>> with raymarine p70, i70.  both are multifunction displays, and one - the 
>> p70, is the control head for the autopilot.   2015 was my first sailing 
>> season with an autopilot and I used it a lot - great investment. 
>> 
>> I was unsure where I wanted to mount the control head so I did so 
>> temporarily on the coaming in the beckson access hatch, adjacent to the 
>> helm, at knee height more or less.  My season with the unit showed me that I 
>> could use the at like two locations - at the helm, (enclosure/pod on 
>> pedestal) OR beside the companionway where it can be operated from under the 
>> dodger, when motoring. Leaning toward the former, but still not clear in my 
>> mind
>> Thoughts, suggestions, alternatives?   Thanks.
>> 
>> Dave
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

>  the gelcoat adheres to the fiberglass. >
>
That would be the 3M 5200; definitely not for bedding.  3200 is essentially
Silicone; 4200 a bit more adhesive than LifeCaulk, but removable.

Tim
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

For a different opinion; 3M 4200...  I used Lifecaulk when replacing
Mojito's hatches about four years ago and it worked fine, but have been
using 4200 for all deck hardware since on advice from a couple of yards.

Tim
C&C 35-3 Mojito
Branford, CT

On Thu, Oct 15, 2015 at 8:14 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> All,
>
> I'll be replacing the front hatch with a Lewmar hatch.  Which sealant
> should I use?  Sikaflex, Lifecaulk, something else?
>
> I need to overdrill, epoxy and redrill the new screw holes, correct?
>
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Edd, there is an article on this in the October (latest) edition of cruising 
world using FRP panels from Home Depot.  It looks easier than starboard.

Tim
Branford, CT

> On Oct 14, 2015, at 2:58 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Here is a different approach, ie. DIY hard dodger. It is very intriguing to 
> me as the stitches begin to dissolve on our dodger though I would prefer to 
> use an FRP panel over Starboard...
> 
> http://www.bwsailing.com/bw/cruising-news/roger-dodger/
> 
> btw @ James Delaney, the picture of that outboard powered jet ski at the 
> mooring is excellent!
> 
>> On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 11:47 AM William Hall via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Which side of your wife is her non-working side?
>> 
>> Sorry, that was off topic.
>> 
>>> On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 1:55 PM, David via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> Whatever basic dodge design you use I have one recommendation that I will 
>>> implement in my Dodger 2.0.  Try to have the dodger to deck joint as 
>>> tight/water-resistant as possible.  When it is snotty outside its nice to 
>>> keep those aggressive seas on the working side of the dodger and not 
>>> hydraulically scoping out your wife on the non-working side
>>> 
>>> David F. Risch
>>> 1981 40-2
>>> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>>> 
>>> 
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2015 10:39:34 -0700
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Dodger for 34+
>>> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> CC: dblair...@gmail.com
>>> 
>>> Dave I can take a few pics for you. My dodger is fairly functional although 
>>> I think it could have been extended back a few inches to increase the 
>>> shade. I would like to have a bimini but the length of the boom is really 
>>> going to limit the height and usefulness. To me a decent bimini needs to 
>>> stand on the pushpit to not crowd access around the binnacle. The PO had a 
>>> complete enclosure built but I have the aft hoops in the garage as they 
>>> restrict movement significantly.  It is sunny today and I was going down to 
>>> check things anyway, so will send from my iPhone if you can give me a 
>>> number to text them to.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Ciao
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
>>> davepulaski via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2015 1:28 AM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: davepulaski
>>> Subject: Stus-List Dodger for 34+
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> So I'm having discussions with a canvas maker about fabricating a dodger 
>>> for my '90 34+, and I'd like to solicit some input from other 34+ owners 
>>> who have a dodger, and I'd really love to see some pictures! 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> This will be a from-scratch build, as the boat never had a dodger.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Obviously I want it to be good looking and not detract too much from the 
>>> lines of the boat, but there are some functional challenges I can see with 
>>> putting a dodger on a 34+.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> First, clearance for the big self-tailers on the corners of the cabin top.  
>>> Th canvas maker I'm speaking with expressed concern that the dodger side 
>>> panels and/or frame may interfer with full rotation of the winch handle. 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Second: how high above the companionway hatch is your dodger, and how much 
>>> does  it create awkward access in and out of the companionway?  This is 
>>> difficult for me to visualize, but I can see it being an issue because the 
>>> bridgedeck is so very long on these boats.  I don't want the dodger any 
>>> taller than absolutely necessary for aesthetic and visibility reasons.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Third, and this is the core purpose of me getting a dodger, how far back 
>>> does your dodger extend over the forward end of the cockpit?   This is my 
>>> #1 reason for getting a dodger because The Admiral needs a cozy,  SHADY 
>>> spot where she can sit facing backwards up against the cabin top bulkhead 
>>> and read a book while I toil away sailing the boat.   If the dodger stops 
>>> at the aft end of the cabin top,  it won't provide any shade to the cockpit 
>>> thus defeating the whole purpose.   Do you guys get any usable shade in the 
>>> front of the cockpit from your dodgers?  A bimini is out of the question;  
>>> not only do I absolutely hate biminis, but my travelers is in the cockpit 
>>> in front of the pedestal making a bimini pretty much impractical. 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I really want this done right... any input will be much appreciated! 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> -Dave
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___ Email address: 
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including 
>>> unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: 
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listi

Stus-List Recycling old dodger

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

I replaced the dodger on my 35-3 earlier this year with a different shaped
version and now have the old bows sitting in my garden.  Does anyone know
if they would be useful to anyone rather than throwing them away?  I have
the old dodger too - the cloth is OK'ish, but *all* the stitching
disintegrated at the same time.

Thanks,

Tim
Soon to be an ex-C&C owner (I hope you'll still let me lurk)
Branford, CT
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List IPad Question...

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Jerome, practical experience from several sources is very different to what you 
suggest.  It works.

Tim


> On Oct 3, 2015, at 6:11 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> OK - This is getting silly.   Do you really believe the tiny GPS chip and 
> antenna in a cell phone or Ipad is going to outperform a dedicated handheld 
> GPS and pick up signals where the handheld GPS will not without some sort of 
> assistance.  For a navigation message to travel from the satellite to the 
> receiver, they must be sent on a carrier frequency. In the original GPS 
> design, two frequencies were utilized; one at 1575.42 MHz(10.23 MHz × 154) 
> called L1; and a second at 1227.60 MHz (10.23 MHz × 120), called L2.  The 
> satellite output is about 25 watts.  These signals are quite weak when they 
> reach earth and will not penetrate the metal roof on your house or your car 
> and may be attenuated by the fiberglass roof on your boat to the point where 
> they may not be readable by an Iphone or Ipad.   That's why your handheld GPS 
> will not work in your basement.   The only reason the Ipad or Iphone will 
> work is that it is assisted.   Even it you don't have a cellular connection 
> you probably have wifi in your house that is being used for the assist.  A 
> typical A-GPS-enabled receiver will use a data connection (Internet, cellular 
> or other) to contact the assistance server for aGPS information. If it also 
> has functioning autonomous GPS, it may use standalone GPS which does not 
> depend on the wifi or cellular network but then must depend entirely on the 
> GPS signal from the satellite and therefore will not work if that signal is 
> not strong enough. Some A-GPS devices do not have the option of falling back 
> to standalone or autonomous GPS.  Many mobile phones combine A-GPS and other 
> location services including Wi-Fi Positioning System and cell and sometimes a 
> hybrid positioning system.  Accurate location requires a fix on at least 3 
> satellites, and these signals do not penetrate buildings (even the roof of a 
> car can attenuate the GPS signal to where it is not useful). So, if you are 
> not in view of 3 satellites, A-GPS can estimate your location based on 2 
> satellites plus cell tower data (less accurate). If you aren't in view of at 
> least 2 satellites, the iPhone uses internet WiFi  or cell-tower 
> triangulation, which is not very accurate.  Jerry
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Rick Brass 
> Sent: Sat, Oct 3, 2015 3:38 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List IPad Question...
> 
> I have an IPad 3 which was a gift. It has cellular capability (so it has a 
> built in GPS), but has never been connected to cellular service. The GPS 
> function operates perfectly below decks and everywhere else. I have never had 
> a problem receiving GPS data, even inside my house which has a metal roof. I 
> can’t say the same for the handheld GPSs (multiple) that I carry on the boat 
> as backups for the ditch bag.
>  
> I have SKIPPER on the IPad for a navigation app. (Selected that one because 
> of a desire for Bermuda charts when I was loading the IPad, and Bermuda 
> region is included as part of North America so there was no cost.) Skipper 
> uses NOAA charts, and the app checks for NOAA updates to the charts that have 
> been downloaded to the tablet each time the app is turned on while connected 
> to WiFi. On the last two deliveries I made, I found that my charts were more 
> up to date than the charts on the boat’s chartplotter. Plus I run the Active 
> Captain Companion on the IPad, which gives warnings about hazards to 
> navigation that are within a specified angle and distance from the boat’s 
> heading. One of the Raymarine plotters on a boat offered this feature, but 
> the charts were out of date. The tablet was more accurate.
>  
> If you are getting your AIS information off the net, you should be aware of a 
> couple of things: The information is not current, not all AIS information is 
> included, and the AIS repeaters on the Internet have the capability of being 
> hacked.
>  
> I seem to recall that a number of manufacturers are making instruments and 
> radios that can be connected to tablets and phones by using Bluetooth. Why 
> not just use the Bluetooth connection instead of building a WiFi network on 
> the boat?
>  
> My IPad was a gift, so it cost me nothing. I agree with Dennis. A WATERPROOF 
> and shock resistant Galaxy tablet is a bit more than $250, but still less 
> than half the cost of an IPad. Plus the software is generally less expensive. 
> I have more invested in the Otter Box and LifePruf cases for my IPad than a 
> galaxy tablet would have cost me.
>  
> But the discussion started with David’s question about using an old IPad for 
> a plotter. If the IPad had cellular capability (so it has a GPS) go for it. 
> You will spend something up to $50 (and maybe less) on chart plotter software 
> and charts, and

Stus-List C&C 35 Mark III

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

I have decided to sell my 1984 C&C 35 Mark III, Mojito, with a heavy heart.


I'll be selling through a broker, but wanted to share this with the list in
case there is interest (listing price TBA).  Mojito has a new engine
(remanufactured 3GM30 with less than 10 hours), new dodger (2015) and
otherwise great canvas, 2015 North 3DL #2 and S1.5 (less than 3 hours) plus
good 155%, 110%, 90%, main, new majestic blue topside paint that will be
repaired under warranty this winter, rod rigging that will be completely
replaced over the off season and an otherwise pretty well maintained boat -
as people saw in the rendezvous in Clinton, CT this year...

Please let me know if you're interested!

Thanks,

Tim

Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List IPad Question...

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

The cell tower signal is just an aid in getting the first fix.  After that the 
GPS part of the chip takes over.  I was likewise getting position / speed data 
on inavx on my iPhone while "off watch" on the Annapolis to Newport race this 
year.

Tim

> On Oct 2, 2015, at 6:04 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> It works well below deck when you are in cell range.  How does it work below 
> deck with just a GPS signal offshore?  I don't want to belabor the point.  
> Jerry
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Oct 2, 2015, at 4:36 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Jerome
>> I must disagree with that statement.  My sony tablet with built in GPS works 
>> perfectly below decks, it is what I use for anchor watch.
>> Graham Collins
>> Secret Plans
>> C&C 35-III #11
>>> On 2015-10-02 12:42 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List wrote:
>>> Joe - that is a common misunderstanding.  While the Iphone does not need 
>>> cell service for positioning it actually does use cell tower triangulation 
>>> for position and is not very accurate or fast without it.   Moreover, if 
>>> you are below deck you will not get an adequate GPS signal.  This is from 
>>> the internet.
>>> MotionX-GPS
>>> 
>>> Does MotionX-GPS require a cellular network?
>>> 
>>> The iPhone 5, 4S, 4, 3GS and 3G use an A-GPS (Assisted-GPS) chipset which 
>>> uses cell tower triangulation to speed up GPS signal acquisition. Cellular 
>>> coverage is not needed to acquire a signal, however the signal acquisition 
>>> will be much quicker if you have data coverage.
>>> Without data services, it can take 15 minutes or longer to acquire a 
>>> signal. This is simply because it takes longer to determine which 
>>> satellites to use out of the 31 available around the world. With data 
>>> services, it typically takes under a minute, but it can take up to 5 
>>> minutes. 
>>> 
>>> How the iPhone knows where you are 
>>> 
>>> By Glenn Fleishman, Macworld
>>> iPhone users' experience with GPS is so quick, so instant-on, that Apple's 
>>> Wednesday response about location tracking on iOS might almost seem 
>>> baffling:
>>> Calculating a phone’s location using just GPS satellite data can take up to 
>>> several minutes. iPhone can reduce this time to just a few seconds by using 
>>> Wi-Fi hotspot and cell tower data to quickly find GPS satellites.
>>> Several minutes? Doesn't my iPhone take just seconds to figure out where I 
>>> am?
>>> Well, yes… but only when it engages in a set of tricks to avoid a lengthy 
>>> process that was de rigueur when GPS receivers first appeared. In 
>>> simplifying matters, Apple’s not being entirely accurate about how this all 
>>> works and what it's doing. So let me explain where Wi-Fi and cell phone 
>>> towers fit into the equation.
>>> 12.5 minutes to locate
>>> 
>>> Early GPS receivers took 12.5 minutes from a cold start to obtain a lock; 
>>> later locks in the same region could still take minutes. If you turned a 
>>> GPS receiver off for a few weeks or moved it more than a few hundred miles, 
>>> a cold start might be required again.
>>> GPS relies on two factors to create a set of accurate coordinates for where 
>>> you’re standing: time and space. GPS satellites broadcast precise time 
>>> signals using a built-in atomic clock along with their current location. 
>>> They also broadcast the location of all other satellites in the sky, called 
>>> the almanac.
>>> Every 30 seconds, a GPS satellite broadcasts a time stamp, its current 
>>> location and some less precise location information for other GPS 
>>> satellites. It takes 25 of these broadcasts (thus, 12.5 minutes) to obtain 
>>> the full list of satellite locations. This information has to be decoded 
>>> for a receiver to then properly interpret signals from the satellites that 
>>> are within range.
>>> If you know the position of four satellites and the time at which each sent 
>>> their position information, you—or, rather, your GPS receiver—can calculate 
>>> to within 10 meters the latitude, longitude, and elevation of your current 
>>> location along with the exact current time. With three satellites, you lose 
>>> elevation, but a device can still track movement fairly accurately. 
>>> Standalone GPS receivers can lock in simultaneously on multiple satellites, 
>>> and track more than four. Other techniques can improve accuracy, too.
>>> But, heck, I don’t have 12.5 minutes. I’m a busy man! Give me that location 
>>> faster!
>>> Giving GPS an assist
>>> 
>>> So GPS chip and gear makers came up with a host of ways to shorten the 
>>> wait, called Assisted GPS (AGPS). Instead of relying on live downloads of 
>>> position data from satellites, future locations can be estimated accurately 
>>> enough to figure out rough satellite positions, and get a fix at which 
>>> point even more up-to-date information is retrieved. These estimates can be 
>>> downloaded via a network connection in seconds or even calculated right on 
>>> a device.
>>> The

Re: Stus-List IPad Question...

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Jerome,

This limitation is for position *acquisition* only.  I have used iPhone and
iPad outside of cellular range with good speed accuracy and position after
the initial lock.  In comparison, my dedicated Garmin GPS took me going
half a mile down the river in Branford this year before it determined where
it was.

The iPad is a pretty good trade off for standalone chart plotting
capability - to augment a built-in chart plotter, or if you don't have
one.  I really like the wifi extensions to recent plotters, but that
assumes you have one.

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3

On Fri, Oct 2, 2015 at 11:42 AM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Joe - that is a common misunderstanding.  While the Iphone does not need
> cell service for positioning it actually does use cell tower triangulation
> for position and is not very accurate or fast without it.   Moreover, if
> you are below deck you will not get an adequate GPS signal.  This is from
> the internet.
> MotionX-GPS Does MotionX-GPS require a cellular network?
> The iPhone 5, 4S, 4, 3GS and 3G use an A-GPS (Assisted-GPS) chipset which
> uses cell tower triangulation to speed up GPS signal acquisition. Cellular
> coverage is not needed to acquire a signal, however the signal acquisition
> will be much quicker if you have data coverage.
> Without data services, it can take 15 minutes or longer to acquire a
> signal. This is simply because it takes longer to determine which
> satellites to use out of the 31 available around the world. With data
> services, it typically takes under a minute, but it can take up to 5
> minutes.
>
> How the iPhone knows where you are
> 
> By Glenn Fleishman ,
> Macworld
> iPhone users' experience with GPS is so quick, so instant-on, that Apple's 
> Wednesday
> response about location tracking on iOS
> 
> might almost seem baffling:
>
> Calculating a phone’s location using just GPS satellite data can take up
> to several minutes. iPhone can reduce this time to just a few seconds by
> using Wi-Fi hotspot and cell tower data to quickly find GPS satellites.
>
> Several minutes? Doesn't my iPhone take just seconds to figure out where I
> am?
> Well, yes… but only when it engages in a set of tricks to avoid a lengthy
> process that was de rigueur when GPS receivers first appeared. In
> simplifying matters, Apple’s not being entirely accurate about how this all
> works and what it's doing. So let me explain where Wi-Fi and cell phone
> towers fit into the equation.
> 12.5 minutes to locate
> Early GPS receivers took 12.5 minutes from a cold start to obtain a lock;
> later locks in the same region could still take minutes. If you turned a
> GPS receiver off for a few weeks or moved it more than a few hundred miles,
> a cold start might be required again.
> GPS relies on two factors to create a set of accurate coordinates for
> where you’re standing: time and space. GPS satellites broadcast precise
> time signals using a built-in atomic clock along with their current
> location. They also broadcast the location of all other satellites in the
> sky, called the almanac.
> Every 30 seconds, a GPS satellite broadcasts a time stamp, its current
> location and some less precise location information for other GPS
> satellites. It takes 25 of these broadcasts (thus, 12.5 minutes) to obtain
> the full list of satellite locations. This information has to be decoded
> for a receiver to then properly interpret signals from the satellites that
> are within range.
> If you know the position of four satellites and the time at which each
> sent their position information, you—or, rather, your GPS receiver—can
> calculate to within 10 meters the latitude, longitude, and elevation of
> your current location along with the exact current time. With three
> satellites, you lose elevation, but a device can still track movement
> fairly accurately. Standalone GPS receivers can lock in simultaneously on
> multiple satellites, and track more than four. Other techniques can improve
> accuracy, too.
> But, heck, I don’t have 12.5 minutes. I’m a busy man! Give me that
> location faster!
> Giving GPS an assist
> So GPS chip and gear makers came up with a host of ways to shorten the
> wait, called Assisted GPS (AGPS). Instead of relying on live downloads of
> position data from satellites, future locations can be estimated accurately
> enough to figure out rough satellite positions, and get a fix at which
> point even more up-to-date information is retrieved. These estimates can be
> downloaded via a network connection in seconds or even calculated right on
> a device.
> The current time can also be used as a clue. With a precise current time,
> fragmentary

Re: Stus-List IPad Question...

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

David, was this a wifi only iPad?  Otherwise, there is a GPS built in to
the cellular chip that will function even without a cell contract.

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

On Fri, Oct 2, 2015 at 10:36 AM, David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> OK...so I have this IPad I never use.  I'm thinking good for chartplotting
> software for the 2X (maybe) a year that I need a chartplotter.
>
> Needs a GPS.   I shop and see "Bad Elf"s" for $150+.  Huh?  I bought a GPS
> dongle for my laptop for $20.  Is this more of Apples proprietary product
> BS?
>
> (sorry Apple users...I am not a big fan of Apple)
>
> Are there other solutions this non-tech, non-Apple guy could use?
>
> Thank in advance!
>
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List REGISTRATION EXTENDED -- C&C 2015 Northeast Rendezvous (Clinton, CT)

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

I would like to thank Edd and co-organizers for getting a great group of
people and boats together over last weekend in Clinton.  It was wonderful
to finally meet Stu in-person, to exchange stories with other C&C owners
and to see some really interesting boats.  The tasty whisky, rum, cigars
and food were the icing on the cake (until the morning after).

Thank you!

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

On Thu, Sep 3, 2015 at 10:04 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> The 2015 C&C Rendezvous is next week and *today and until noon tomorrow
> are the last days to register* — See cnc2015.com. (For those of you who
> cannot attend, I apologize for all of the event reminder emails.)
>
>
>- Floating private dock
>- Power / Water
>- Pool / Hot Tub
>- Recreation Area
>- Ship’s Store / Mechanics on Site
>- Shopping Shuttle to Premium Outlet Mall
>- Close to Trains and Route 1 in Clinton, CT
>- Group Dinners including Waterfront Restaurant Group Buffet
>- Great Giveaways (Schtuff and Swag)!
>- Reserve Online at cnc2015.com
>- Special Surprise Guest Attending — Want to know who? Here’s your
>hint: He has been associated with C&C Yachts for 20 years but never worked
>for them.  He has owned two C&C Yachts but does not have one now.
>Everybody knows him by name but nobody knows what he looks like or where he
>lives.
>- Extended Weather Outlook: Dry and Above-Average Temps — Perfect!
>
> We now have 10 C&Cs with 25 attendees so far with room for more. Don’t
> miss this great opportunity to put faces to the names, see other’s
> modifications, and enjoy the camaraderie of C&C owners!
>
> Some modifications that may be of interest: A HF Ham Radio Installation
> and a Complete Diesel Engine Repower.
>
> Event Flyer (post at your clubs or on other C&Cs):
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/cnc2015/cnc2015-flyer.pdf
>
> Hope to see you there!
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Shore Power Question

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

We run a fridge and don't get to the boat on a regular schedule, so leave
the battery charger on.  If it's not on, what are you using shore power for?

Tim

Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT



On Wed, Sep 2, 2015 at 1:46 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> When connected to shore power, do you keep your battery charger always on
> or do you use it temporarily as needed?
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Autopilot steering

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

David,

I have a pull to port under power on my 35-3 (the same with new engine and
newly aligned shaft as before) with no pull under sail / coasting.  The
shaft is on center line as I presume is yours.  I've never had the issues
you've described with my Raymarine wheel pilot SPX-5 under power.

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

On Wed, Aug 26, 2015 at 1:43 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Calling Raymarine was my first action and I am waiting for a call back.
> But what I really want to know from the group is whether the relatively
> strong pull to port while motoring is normal or whether neutral helm is
> normal.  Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Aug 26, 2015, at 1:03 PM, David via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> yep...call Raymarine
>
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
> --
> Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2015 12:52:24 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot steering
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: davidakne...@gmail.com
>
> No- It is smooth by hand.  No stiffness I have noticed.
>
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
> 
>
> On Aug 26, 2015, at 12:50 PM, David via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Does the steering hang up at all when the autopilot is disengaged?
>
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
> --
> Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2015 12:04:11 -0400
> To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Autopilot steering
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: davidakne...@gmail.com
>
> I was on a long cruise last weekend and we ended up motoring for many
> hours.   installed a new Raymarine EV1/ST4000+ wheel pilot last winter and
> this was the first extended use.  I found that it was frequently cutting
> out while motoring (not sailing).  The unit would simply freeze up and stop
> steering while the boat drifted slowly off course.  No error on the P70
> controller screen until I got an off course warning.  I also noticed the
> wheel pilot getting warm/hot when this was happening which may be why it
> cut out.
> I also notice that while motoring, there is significant pull on the wheel
> that has to be fought to keep the boat going straight.  Is that normal?  I
> am guessing that the wheel pilot is overheating due to the power needed to
> continuously fight that pull?  Thanks- Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
> 
>
>
> ___ Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including
> unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> ___ Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including
> unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List New Sails for Alera

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

2001 I think Joel - it was on Mojito when I bought her 7 years ago.  That's a 
pretty good life for a main!

Tim

> On Aug 21, 2015, at 9:42 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I've been very happy with my Tape Drive main. Don't know how old it is.  Its 
> taken me to Bermuda and Newport.
> Sadly, it is reaching the end of its useful life.  That's no reflection on 
> the workmanship or materials.
> 
> Sounds like you made a smart choice!
> 
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
> 
>> On Fri, Aug 21, 2015 at 9:37 AM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I too have worked with Stuart and the gang at UK Sails. I had them make a 
>> sail lazy cradle and lazy jacks for me.  They also did some repairs on some 
>> older sails. The workmanship was very good! They were great to talk to and 
>> easy to deal with. I enjoy being able to drop by and ask questions and get 
>> good advice.
>> 
>> And they have a big ass racing boat :-)
>> 
>> Bill Hoyne
>> Mithrandir
>> ’74 C&C35 MkII
>> in Victoria,BC
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Aug 20, 2015, at 4:55 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Listers
>>> 
>>> I know I should have asked you all before taking action and I am certain 
>>> that someone out there will have a better solution...that said, I am 
>>> pleased to announce that I pulled the trigger on new sails for Alera.  The 
>>> PO installed a Schaefer In Boom furler but went cheap on the mylar sails to 
>>> go with it.  They were ~15 years old and both sails have been in for 
>>> repairs every year for the past two years. The main was actually not made 
>>> correctly to the stringent Schaefer specs and the Genoa was to the point of 
>>> disintegration along the leech.  Aout four days into our annual three week 
>>> sailing trip, the leech detached from the Genoa (again).
>>> 
>>> We called ahead and pulled into the Van Isle marina in Sidney BC and right 
>>> up to the dock at UK sail loft to get the genny repaired.  They fixed it 
>>> and even gave us an overnight berth with power and everything.  I met Suart 
>>> Dahlgren, the owner. He had been the tech talk presenter at the C&C RDV a 
>>> few years ago and was familiar with the boat.   He is also very 
>>> knowledgeable.  What started as a discussion about possibly getting a new 
>>> Genoa ultimately turned into deal for both primary sails.
>>> 
>>> The Mainsail was never done right and at its end of life.  Of course, the 
>>> cost was a huge impediment to doing it.  But Stu gave a sweet 15% discount 
>>> of each sail and an additional 5% for getting both...but the real clincher 
>>> was the 0.75 USD to CAD exchange rate, which amounted to an additional 25%. 
>>>  Lynn and I talked it over, slept on it and were unanimous on going for it! 
>>> :D
>>> 
>>> Since I need thin sails to fit the boom when furled we went to a set of UK 
>>> Tape-Drive Cruising sales.  They're due for delivery in October.  I'll let 
>>> you all know if they are as good as I hope.
>>> 
>>> Tom B
>>> Tom Buscaglia
>>> SV Alera
>>> 1990 C&C 37+/40
>>> Vashon Island WA
>>> (206) 463-9200
>>> www.sv-alera.com
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Crew Assignments - 35mkIII

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Hi Jonathan - I've uploaded a document (link below) that explains crew
positions / tasks at various maneuvers.  It's 94kb - I think on the edge
for a message post here.  I put this together when I moved to CT and
basically had to build a crew from scratch with non-sailors.  99% comes
from a manual put together for a boat called Greyhawk.  Some people can get
some learning from reading this; others will need visual / practical
experience first.  I think it provides access to concepts / terms before
on-the-water experience.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B49oZ17ORKwEeW1VV1NCRWpsbjQ/view?usp=sharing


I have swapped the primaries / secondaries on Mojito - the primaries are
forward, which gives the jib trimmers a little more room while allowing
them to face forward to trim from behind the winch (our main traveler is on
the bridge deck too).  We use the (aft) secondaries for the spin sheet
initially, but that's sometimes gets swapped to the primaries during
gybes.  The sheet runs from a turning block aft on the rail to the winch
and then across the cockpit to the person trimming on the side deck (way
aft of the shrouds).  That seems to work OK - the main and guy trimmers
shouldn't be affected.

Thanks,

Tim

On Sat, Aug 15, 2015 at 6:16 AM, Indigo via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I have a fairly green crew - and I put myself in that category when it
> comes to spinnaker handling - and we are trying to move more permanently
> into the beer can spinnaker division - using a symmetrical spinnaker.
>
> I am looking for help in defining specific jobs / task responsibilities to
> my crew so at least to start, they get to know set of jobs and do them well
>
> I think I have the "standard" set up for 35mk iii s
>
> Roller furled jib
> Spin halyard to base of mast and winch on cabin top just aft of mast on
> port side
> I use guys and sheets - no twings
> Pole topping lift brought aft to clutch on starboard cabin top
> Pole down haul brought aft to clam clear on starboard side of cockpit
> coming
> Self tailing primaries aft with non-self tailing secondaries forward
>
> I am not short of crew, but ideally would like to have clear assignments
> for six or seven individuals - though we often have a couple extra
> available.
>
> I would like to prepare (plagiarize if someone has this already!!) a table
> with "positions" in the left column and then a series of columns for
> "upwind" "hoist" "trim" "gybe" "douse" etc. and then each cell would define
> the job or jobs assigned to each position during that maneuver.
>
> While I am sure some of this is generic, I feel that the boat layout
> requires the assignments to be tailored so that crew don't get in each
> other's way
>
> Anybody got anything already prepared that I could use as a starting point?
>
> As always - grateful in advance for the individual and collective wisdom
> of this group.
>
>
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C&C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Crew Assignments - 35mkIII

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Jonathan, I think I have what you need (when we get back from a mini-cruise).  
Do you have any capability to get the halyard back to the cockpit too?  That 
way your pit person could handle all up / down lines.

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

> On Aug 15, 2015, at 9:16 AM, Indigo via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have a fairly green crew - and I put myself in that category when it comes 
> to spinnaker handling - and we are trying to move more permanently into the 
> beer can spinnaker division - using a symmetrical spinnaker.  
> 
> I am looking for help in defining specific jobs / task responsibilities to my 
> crew so at least to start, they get to know set of jobs and do them well
> 
> I think I have the "standard" set up for 35mk iii s 
> 
> Roller furled jib
> Spin halyard to base of mast and winch on cabin top just aft of mast on port 
> side
> I use guys and sheets - no twings
> Pole topping lift brought aft to clutch on starboard cabin top 
> Pole down haul brought aft to clam clear on starboard side of cockpit coming
> Self tailing primaries aft with non-self tailing secondaries forward
> 
> I am not short of crew, but ideally would like to have clear assignments for 
> six or seven individuals - though we often have a couple extra available. 
> 
> I would like to prepare (plagiarize if someone has this already!!) a table 
> with "positions" in the left column and then a series of columns for "upwind" 
> "hoist" "trim" "gybe" "douse" etc. and then each cell would define the job or 
> jobs assigned to each position during that maneuver.  
> 
> While I am sure some of this is generic, I feel that the boat layout requires 
> the assignments to be tailored so that crew don't get in each other's way
> 
> Anybody got anything already prepared that I could use as a starting point?
> 
> As always - grateful in advance for the individual and collective wisdom of 
> this group. 
> 
> 
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C&C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List baby stay on a 38Mk2

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Petar,

If this functions the same the baby stay on the 35-3, you should be able to
sail without it - no need to miss out on sailing this weekend...

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 4:29 PM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Has anyone replaced the baby stay on a 38 Mk2.  It is a ¼” 1/19 wire braid.
>
> I am asking b/c I discovered a crack at the swage on the mast end.  Crack
> is pretty good, about 1.5” longitudinal.
>
> I’m weighing in the following options
>
> 1.   Send to rigger and have him swage identical replacement (likely
> no sailing this weekend)
>
> 2.   Get sta-lock or norseman terminals and swage it myself, I have
> spare ¼” wire rope.
>
> 3.   Use some of the Dyneema SK78 7mm line I have to make a
> babystay.  Its 7200lbs and I originally bought it for my running backstays.
>
>
>
> A while back I added an inner forestay with ¼” wire rope, and running
> backstays so I have support at the second spreader, but if I leave it for
> the offseason, this crack will linger in the back of my mind every time I
> head out.
>
>
>
> Petar Horvatic
>
> Sundowner
>
> 76 C&C 38MkII
>
> Newport, RI
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Hoyt,
> Mike via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, July 27, 2015 8:45 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List winches
>
>
>
> Harold
>
>
>
> Larger diameter sheets maybe?
>
>
>
> Is there any relation to Andrew and Karen Higginbottom in Nova Scotia?
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> (currently in Cape Breton)
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *patricia
> barkley-higginbottom via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Saturday, July 25, 2015 2:42 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* patricia barkley-higginbottom
> *Subject:* Stus-List winches
>
>
>
> Have an original equipment Barient 27 two speed self tailer winch on my
> 35-3 which allows the genoa sheet to slip under load, even when there are
> three wraps on the winch. The self tailer does not hold the line in a
> predictable fashion, releasing at the most inconvenient times., Is this a
> common problem, and is there anyway of improving the grip with either a
> replacement part or modifying the existing serrations. The sheets are
> relatively new, and only one winch has this problem.
>
> Harold
>
> Celtic Spirit
>
> Hamilton, ON.
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Stus list winches

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

I trim main on a Swan 42 with pretty well maintained winches, clutches and 
line.  We are constantly fighting slippage when anything gets slightly worn.  
The main sheet winches take 5 wraps minimum when going upwind or they will 
slip.  High tech line is great, but it is slick stuff.  

Those multiple wraps seem to get a lot more grippy in ducking situations - and 
the Swan 42 has a very skinny rudder.

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

> On Jul 27, 2015, at 2:24 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> On Calypso with her 1970 Barient 36 primaries and the slippery hi-tech sheets 
> we need 5 to 6 wraps to reduce slippage.  With older well-worn sheets (used 
> for deliveries and cruising) we can get back down to 3 to 4 wraps.  To avoid 
> unpleasant surprises when tacking with 5 to 6 wraps on the winch we practiced 
> the best way to clear the sheet off the winch and insure it runs clear.  
> After each tack we “fake down the line” starting at the winch to clear any 
> twists induced by the extra wraps.
>  
> The 1970 Barient’s drums have been worn smooth over the decades of heavy use. 
>  They are not self-tailing winches.  I do plan to roughen up the drums a bit 
> by dimpling the surface with a nail set and hammer.  This project falls well 
> behind the current deck restoration efforts already in progress.
>  
> On Sailing Anarchy either in the Fixit or Cruising forums there is a topic 
> thread regarding how to roughen up a winch drum either DIY or using an 
> outside service.
>  
> Martin DeYoung
> Calypso
> 1971 C&C 43
> Seattle
> 
> 
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, July 27, 2015 7:46 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard; patrici...@cogeco.ca
> Subject: Stus-List Stus list winches
>  
> Hi Herold. 
> 
> Sounds obvious but I'll say it anyway:  Have you tried 4 wraps?
> 
> I read somewhere that the "Correct" number of turns is 4.  On my boat it's a 
> necessity, when It's blowing, 3 wraps is a waste of time and effort, they all 
> slip.
> 
> 4 turns gets it done.  
> 
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Sat, Jul 25, 2015 at 12:41 PM, patricia barkley-higginbottom via
> CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> >   Have an original equipment Barient 27 two speed self tailer winch on my
> > 35-3 which allows the genoa sheet to slip under load, even when there are
> > three wraps on the winch. The self tailer does not hold the line in a
> > predictable fashion, releasing at the most inconvenient times., Is this a
> > common problem, and is there anyway of improving the grip with either a
> > replacement part or modifying the existing serrations. The sheets are
> > relatively new, and only one winch has this problem.
> > Harold
> > Celtic Spirit
> > Hamilton, ON.
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C 2015 Northeast Rendezvous -- September 11-13, 2015 -- Clinton, CT

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Edd, this looks great; I'm particularly looking forward to the scotch and
cigars!  I see there are pre-rendezvous rendezvous for those coming from
the East.  Are you / others thinking of stopping anywhere on your way from
NY or points-West?  We have a very easy trip from Branford, but may be in
Milford the night before.

I tried to sign up but was stopped by the 'captcha' - I'll try again from
outside our company network.  If you see five registrations from me, please
let me know...

Thanks,

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

On Thu, Jul 16, 2015 at 4:17 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> I am proud to announce the *C&C 2015 Northeast Rendezvous* in Eastern
> Long Island Sound (Clinton, CT) at the Cedar Island Marina — September
> 11-13, 2015
>
>
>- Private Floating Dock Just for Us!
>- Pool / Rec Room / Picnic Area / Hot Tub / Ships’ Store / Laundry
>Facilities / Fuel Dock / Etc. See: http://cnc2015.com/marina.png
>- Meet Other C&C Owners and Tour Other’s Boats**
>- Spouse Shuttle to Outlet Mall
>- BYO Pot Luck Dinner on First Night / Private Buffet Dinner on Second
>Night at Waterfront Seafood Restaurant
>- Cigar and Rum/Whiskey Tasting (hosted by Rob Gallagher)
>- Close to Train, Shopping, Marine Supplies, Casino
>- Great Giveaways
>- Special Surprise Guest
>
>
> Information and Registration can be found at: http://cnc2015.com.
> Reservations can only be submitted through the website (we will handle your
> dock reservation, dinners, etc.)
>
> We are looking forward to seeing you there.
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
> ** Including a good look at a new Beta 30 diesel engine installed in a C&C
> 37+ :)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List head question-lubrication

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

I tried mineral oil (once) last year - it resulted in exactly the situation
that Andy predicted; floating on top of the liquid and causing anaerobic
bacteria to thrive and develop...  The marine lube solutions seem to be
best and don't seem to affect the nitrate-based deodorizing solutions that
promote aerobic (less smelly) bacteria growth.

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

On Thu, Jul 16, 2015 at 12:28 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I used to use olive oil, but my feeling now is that would leave a film on
> top of the liquid in the holding tank, preventing air from getting at it,
> which would result on a foul odor.
> Perhaps one of the dedicated head lubes would be the ticket.
>
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
>
> On Thu, Jul 16, 2015 at 12:21 PM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> So, how is the Jabsco head lubricated?  Just toss Crisco in the bowl and
>> flush?  Mine was out of use for a while and appears to work, but squeaks a
>> bit and feels stiff.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Alex Giannelia
>>
>> a...@airsensing.com
>>
>> (416) 203-9858
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett Ave
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> phone  +401 965 5260
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Boat time and weather

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

The boat yard was really late starting work due to the snowy Northeast, which 
meant a big launch delay for the engine replacement (which I am hoping has 
shipped today).  In the mean time we had to go sailing in the Whitsunday 
Islands.  Great weather for mid-winter - mid 70's, and a constant 20-25 knots.  
Turtles, Dolphins, whales and waves and no stingers this time of year - I can 
recommend it!

Tim
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

> On Jul 9, 2015, at 11:12 PM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Our weather pattern here in the middle states has not bee conducive to 
> boating; it rains or has a high percentage chance of rain almost every day; 
> plus, the Ohio River has been up over its normal banks for over two weeks... 
> very unusual for mid summer. I have not been able to get into my dock because 
> it has been under water Sooo; I was wondering if anyone has any good 
> boating stories or getting much sailing time in?
>  
> Richard
> 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River; Mile 596
> Richard N. Bush\
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
>  
>  
>  
>
>___
> Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences,
> including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ Repower -- Ugh

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Edd,

I am currently working with Al at Schooner Bay Imported Engines (who
provide most of the listing at Diesel Engine Trader).  A Yanmar 3GMF30 was
advertised on a 3-week lead time and I am (hopefully) going to get it
shipped 6 weeks from order date.  Just my experience; I'm not saying it is
typical, but his reasoning is that he's rushed off his feet at present,
which would not bode well for your order.

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3 (currently non-auxiliary sloop)
Branford, CT

On Wed, Jun 24, 2015 at 4:25 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Charlie,
>
> The Enterprise’s displacement is 18,500 and Farron at Beta thought that
> the 30 would be the best fit to get the boat to it’s normal 7+ knots under
> power with the two-blade prop.
>
> I’m having trouble reconciling the $14,000 price tag (engine, shipping,
> est. labor), but the idea of a new engine is attractive as well as being
> back on the water in a couple of weeks. For a rebuild, I think I’m looking
> at, at best, mid August.
>
> I’m trying to hunt down a replacement in a better price range.
>
> PS — Thanks to Lister Josh Muckley for a lead at dieselenginetrader.com.
> Al doesn’t have a M-35 in stock, so I’m looking at 4-6 weeks with him.
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Jun 24, 2015, at 3:55 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Just a thought Edd:
>
> I repowered my 13,600 lb displacement C&C 36 XL/kcb (1995) with a Beta 25
> after the Yanmar 30 GM?
> blew a head gasket at about 11 years of use (operator/system error!).
>
> It was a perfect match as well and all-in it was about $10K including
> install, etc.
>
> I bring it up only because your 37 is probably not much more displaement
> than  my 36 and the Beta 25 gets mine to hull speed
> in any coastal weather I would care to be in!
>
> You might at least run that by the Beta guru, who I agree is excellent.
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
>
> cenel...@aol.com
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Engine Troubles

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Edd, I'm in the middle of this currently.  A new 30hp Yanmar will be around 
$12k, so I went with a rebuilt engine from Schooner Bay Imported Motors.  I 
don't have the engine in hand yet and it's taking 6 weeks not the agreed 3 to 
deliver, so I can't vouch for them.  As a direct replacement for the existing 
engine there is little work to do on engine beds / exhaust / shaft length / 
wiring etc, so that will save a fair amount of yard work, but the galley had to 
come apart to facilitate access.  That engine is ~$5k with core swap.

Good luck!

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

> On Jun 21, 2015, at 4:20 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> John,
> 
> Thanks. I think I'm in for a head gasket replacement. 
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> NCC-1701-B
> C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
> www.StarshipSailing.com
> ---
> 914.332.4400  | Office
> 914.774.9767  | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone 6
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
> 
> On Jun 21, 2015, at 4:18 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Edd - one other thought.  Give McMichael (Mamaroneck) a call.  Very good 
> mechanics who may have suggestions.  They did the gasket replacement for the 
> sail drive on Paws.  
> 
> John
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Jun 21, 2015, at 12:45 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Listers,
>> 
>> Having some troubles with the Enterprise's Universal M-35 Diesel engine and 
>> I'm preparing  myself for the worst. 
>> 
>> Has anyone on the list completely replaced their engine and, if so, what did 
>> it cost you including time out of commission and labor? 
>> 
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>> ---
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> NCC-1701-B
>> C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
>> www.StarshipSailing.com
>> ---
>> 914.332.4400  | Office
>> 914.774.9767  | Mobile
>> ---
>> Sent via iPhone 6
>> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C 30 MkI for sale

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

David - welcome to the 35-3 - you're going to enjoy it!
Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

On Fri, Jun 19, 2015 at 6:53 AM, Davidmidkiff via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If you or anyone you know is interested I am selling my 1973 ( 2 owner) C&C
> 30 MK I.   She is located on the eastern shore of MD.  I bought a C&C 35 MK
> III and need to sell her.
>
> David Midkiff
> C&C 30 MkI soon to be C&C 35
> Serendipity
> Chesapeake, VA
> dmidki...@cox.net
>
> **
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Spinnaker wanted

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

I was wondering why you weren't flying a spin why we saw you at the finish.  It 
was only blowing 20 to 30...

Tim

> On Jun 10, 2015, at 2:25 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> This was way too far gone. 
> 
>> On Wednesday, June 10, 2015, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Joel
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> We have all seen some very destroyed spinnakers put back together and still 
>> have good sail shape.  Is yours not at all repairable?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Mike
>> 
>> Persistence
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel 
>> Aronson via CnC-List
>> Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2015 1:15 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Joel Aronson
>> Subject: Stus-List Spinnaker wanted
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> We Did well in the Annapolis Newport race despite blowing out the 3/4 ounce 
>> chute two hours into the race. 
>> 
>> I'm looking for a replacement. If you have one to sell please contact me off 
>> list
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Joel
>> 
>> 35/3
>> 
>> The Office 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Joel 
>> 301 541 8551
>> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Annapolis to Bermuda

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

We just passed Joel on the way in (red spin 4221).  Challenging weather and 
course for sure, but I had an amazing four days sailing.

Tim
Mojito



> On Jun 8, 2015, at 3:45 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Joel Aronson and the crew of The Office are about three miles from the finish 
> in Newport.  At this point, at least eleven of the seventy-one boats that 
> started have retired, for reasons from electrical and steering problems, to 
> torn sails from a squall that nailed the second starters, to a reason listed 
> only as, “Motoring to the Hamptons.”
> 
> Congrats to Joel and company!
> 
> 
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Annapolis to Newport

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

We have light and very shifty downwind in the Bay still 4.5 hours in.

Tim
Mojito (sailing on Migration)


> On Jun 5, 2015, at 3:13 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The boats are still pretty packed together, except the Tripp 41 that went up 
> the shore line early this morning.   Kinda hope it works out for him, but it 
> appears he may have stayed inside a little too long. 
>  
> Anyone have access to the wine/waves that they’re seeing now?
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick 
> G Street via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2015 12:11 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Frederick G Street
> Subject: Stus-List Annapolis to Newport
>  
> Joel on “The Office” seems to have found some wind; he’s keeping up with the 
> big boys!
>  
> http://yb.tl/a2n2015
>  
> 
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>  
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Annapolis to Newport Race

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

The Office is out of the Bay and on the way NE.  Way less thank two days...

Tim


> On Jun 3, 2015, at 9:06 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Best of luck to you and the guys; I wish I were going with you this year.  I 
> really hope you can make it out of the Bay in less than two days this year :^)
> 
> And once you’re out, ignore the weather briefing and do the rhumb line…
> 
> Have a great race!
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
>> On Jun 3, 2015, at 2:05 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Chuck
>> 
>> Thanks!
>> 
>> Also tim is on Migration. We start Thursday. He starts Friday. Best wishes 
>> to him too. 
>> 
>> Tracking at http://yb.tl/a2n2015. 
>> 
>> Looking forward to seeing the Castle Hill light house in Newport!
>> 
>> Joel
>> 
>> 
>>> On Wednesday, June 3, 2015, Chuck S via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> Hey Joel,
>>> Good luck in the upcoming Annapolis to Newport Race.
>>> Is there anyway to track the boats racing?
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Annapolis to Newport Race

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Good luck Joel - it looks like you'll have a nice breeze to head down the
Chesapeake - we may be kedging...  It also looks upwind and "blowy" to
Newport - stay safe; we'll see you at the NYYC!

Tim

On Wed, Jun 3, 2015 at 3:05 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Chuck
>
> Thanks!
>
> Also tim is on Migration. We start Thursday. He starts Friday. Best wishes
> to him too.
>
> Tracking at http://yb.tl/a2n2015.
>
> Looking forward to seeing the Castle Hill light house in Newport!
>
> Joel
>
>
> On Wednesday, June 3, 2015, Chuck S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Hey Joel,
>> Good luck in the upcoming Annapolis to Newport Race.
>> Is there anyway to track the boats racing?
>>
>> Chuck
>> Resolute
>> 1990 C&C 34R
>> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Stus List - Annapolis to Newport Race

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

I would like to wish Joel, Jake and crew fair winds for the Annapolis to
Newport Race that starts on Thursday.  Race tracking is available at
http://yb.tl/a2n2015.


Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com