Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?
Necessity is the mother of .. invention? I went around and around in my tender 10 times (we were counting turns in case we needed to know when re-assembling) .. until I realized I was being stupid :) Steve CC 32 Suhana Toronto On Thu, May 14, 2015 at 10:23 PM, robert via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Wally: I have no problem admitting to my mental limitationsif I were that smart, I wouldn't be sailing a 31 year old boat and I wouldn't be doing all of the maintenance/work myself. Possibly explains why I am a big fan of the CC list. Here's another example of 'stupid'..changed the engine oil last Fall just before haul outstarted the engine after the oil change but just long enough to hear the engine alarm go 'off'launched this Spring and went for a half hour motor before docking.noticed some oil in the bilgenow we get to the 'stupid'..forgot to put the oil cap back on the to of the engine last Fall after the oil changesome oil spurted out of the top of the engine and made a mess all the way to the bilge. Had a big clean up.I am a full member of the 'stupid club' and freely admit it! Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2015-05-14 11:04 PM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List wrote: you wrote: Steve: Instantly, now I feel stupid Welcome to the club. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack - terms
I do things and things are done to me ... From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert via CnC-List Sent: Friday, May 15, 2015 10:14 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: robert Subject: Stus-List Rig - crack - terms Russ: No worries mate.no offense taken! I am probably just as punctilious as you are! And while you have done a commendable job nudging me back to the terminology 'through bolt' , I will probably continue to reference this piece of rigging as a 'tie bar'. From Merriam Webster's: Definition of THROUGH BOLT : a bolt passing through all the thicknesses or layers which it binds or in which it is fixed and made fast by a nut at the end opposite the head My reluctance with using 'through bolt' in this instance is that the piece of rigging we are talking about does not have a 'head' on the opposite end..both ends are threaded. I have tried to find the actual part on Navtec's website to see what they call it but have been unsuccessful. The naming of this piece of rigging could be as tricky as the use of the words 'that vs. which' or 'I vs. me'. The good thing is that we all know what piece of rigging we are talking about. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2015-05-15 2:12 AM, Russ Melody via CnC-List wrote: Rob, I can understand your confusion with a term you are comfortable using as it was provided by a rigger you trust. My intention is not to belittle you or anybody else but to point out to everybody when I see little things start to get outta place. My assumed role is to nudge them back to goodness again. You might have noticed I deleted all reference to you in my reply to - terms. But seriously... providing copy from a mega-store discount website is not the best tactic to dissuade me.. This is precisely how terms get misused and into the mainstream in the first place. If these guys used tie-bar instead of throughbolt compression tubes (check the flange bushings for repair) : http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Tangs-complete/Tangs-complete.htm Or this British guy who is still using looped eyes and admonishing his peers for worrying if an unshouldered mast band is even practical. He references the late great Herreshof on the wonders of through-bolting. http://www.classicmarine.co.uk/articles/Gaffergear/lugs/Mastbands.PDF Then I might call, Uncle! My references are mostly on paper, like a library, and include favourites such as Bruce Bingham, Bob Perry Brion Toss. I'm slowly catching up on Ted Brewer's works since he moved to a nearby island. I have a story with a trusted rigger to share. When replacing the gang on Sweet, we got the cap shrouds forestay done (with Harken furler rehab) and set about to do the lowers. Oops, his stock didn't have the correct size. No problem. he says, I'll upgrade you, up one size at no cost. No thanks. says I, When will the right size be here? You see, a rigging wire too big is no better than a rigging wire too small and my trusted professional couldn't see that because he works for a living and in this case it probably would not have made any difference and most customers would appreciate getting a more expensive product for the same price even if it didn't do the job as well. Humans are kinda funny in a way. That's probably enough for now, unless someone wishes to get me started on the oxymoron cutter-ketch. Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 Vancouver Island At 07:06 PM 14/05/2015, you wrote: Russ: I too like to use the appropriate nautical term. When we put the standing rigging together for the first time after purchasing the boat, we discovered the top 'aluminum 'through-bolt, 'stud' or 'tie bar' as the rigger from North Sails called it was approx. half worn through by the wire from the main halyard. This yacht shop in the below website advertises what we are talking about as a 'TIE BAR' and threaded at 12mm at both endspic is not of a 'tie bar' obviously. http://www.marinemegastore.com/product-TIE-BAR-UNI_533100.htm And yes, we have the compression tube inside the mast .we used the original one with a new SS piece of metal, whatever it is called, to hold the tangs together. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S On 2015-05-14 3:01 PM, Russ Melody via CnC-List wrote: A little term bitchin' here. The threaded thingy that goes inside the mast to hold the tangs tight is a called through-bolt (even though in most cases it is a stud) not a tie-bar. And it goes inside a compression tube so it can be properly tightened without deflecting the mast sides towards each other. The compression tube was especially important in wooden masts to prevent movement and elongation of holes. I may be pissin in the wind here and I concede most people use the term salon instead of saloon, but I endeavour to preserve to use of as many other old terms as I can. Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 Vancouver
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack - terms
Russ, So calling a halyard an uppy downy line and a sheet an inny outy line doesn't work? :) Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Fri, May 15, 2015 at 12:12 AM, Russ Melody via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Rob, I can understand your confusion with a term you are comfortable using as it was provided by a rigger you trust. My intention is not to belittle you or anybody else but to point out to everybody when I see little things start to get outta place. My assumed role is to nudge them back to goodness again. You might have noticed I deleted all reference to you in my reply to - terms. But seriously... providing copy from a mega-store discount website is not the best tactic to dissuade me.. This is precisely how terms get misused and into the mainstream in the first place. If these guys used tie-bar instead of throughbolt compression tubes (check the flange bushings for repair) : http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Tangs-complete/Tangs-complete.htm Or this British guy who is still using looped eyes and admonishing his peers for worrying if an unshouldered mast band is even practical. He references the late great Herreshof on the wonders of through-bolting. http://www.classicmarine.co.uk/articles/Gaffergear/lugs/Mastbands.PDF Then I might call, Uncle! My references are mostly on paper, like a library, and include favourites such as Bruce Bingham, Bob Perry Brion Toss. I'm slowly catching up on Ted Brewer's works since he moved to a nearby island. I have a story with a trusted rigger to share. When replacing the gang on *Sweet*, we got the cap shrouds forestay done (with Harken furler rehab) and set about to do the lowers. Oops, his stock didn't have the correct size. No problem. he says, I'll upgrade you, up one size at no cost. No thanks. says I, When will the right size be here? You see, a rigging wire too big is no better than a rigging wire too small and my trusted professional couldn't see that because he works for a living and in this case it probably would not have made any difference and most customers would appreciate getting a more expensive product for the same price even if it didn't do the job as well. Humans are kinda funny in a way. That's probably enough for now, unless someone wishes to get me started on the oxymoron cutter-ketch. Cheers, Russ *Sweet *35 mk-1 Vancouver Island At 07:06 PM 14/05/2015, you wrote: Russ: I too like to use the appropriate nautical term. When we put the standing rigging together for the first time after purchasing the boat, we discovered the top 'aluminum 'through-bolt, 'stud' or 'tie bar' as the rigger from North Sails called it was approx. half worn through by the wire from the main halyard. This yacht shop in the below website advertises what we are talking about as a 'TIE BAR' and threaded at 12mm at both endspic is not of a 'tie bar' obviously. http://www.marinemegastore.com/product-TIE-BAR-UNI_533100.htm And yes, we have the compression tube inside the mast .we used the original one with a new SS piece of metal, whatever it is called, to hold the tangs together. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S On 2015-05-14 3:01 PM, Russ Melody via CnC-List wrote: A little term bitchin' here. The threaded thingy that goes inside the mast to hold the tangs tight is a called through-bolt (even though in most cases it is a stud) not a tie-bar. And it goes inside a compression tube so it can be properly tightened without deflecting the mast sides towards each other. The compression tube was especially important in wooden masts to prevent movement and elongation of holes. I may be pissin in the wind here and I concede most people use the term salon instead of saloon, but I endeavour to preserve to use of as many other old terms as I can. Cheers, Russ *Sweet *35 mk-1 Vancouver Island At 07:24 AM 14/05/2015, you wrote: Mike et al: the most difficult one is getting the cap shroud in its tang and then screw the tang into the tie bar inside the mast.the shroud and the tang have to rotate as one. ___ Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address:
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack - terms
Dennis, This made a laugh of the day for me. Do you have any more of those? Love this list! Marek C320 in Hamilton On Fri, May 15, 2015 at 8:50 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Russ, So calling a halyard an uppy downy line and a sheet an inny outy line doesn't work? :) Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Fri, May 15, 2015 at 12:12 AM, Russ Melody via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Rob, I can understand your confusion with a term you are comfortable using as it was provided by a rigger you trust. My intention is not to belittle you or anybody else but to point out to everybody when I see little things start to get outta place. My assumed role is to nudge them back to goodness again. You might have noticed I deleted all reference to you in my reply to - terms. But seriously... providing copy from a mega-store discount website is not the best tactic to dissuade me.. This is precisely how terms get misused and into the mainstream in the first place. If these guys used tie-bar instead of throughbolt compression tubes (check the flange bushings for repair) : http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Tangs-complete/Tangs-complete.htm Or this British guy who is still using looped eyes and admonishing his peers for worrying if an unshouldered mast band is even practical. He references the late great Herreshof on the wonders of through-bolting. http://www.classicmarine.co.uk/articles/Gaffergear/lugs/Mastbands.PDF Then I might call, Uncle! My references are mostly on paper, like a library, and include favourites such as Bruce Bingham, Bob Perry Brion Toss. I'm slowly catching up on Ted Brewer's works since he moved to a nearby island. I have a story with a trusted rigger to share. When replacing the gang on *Sweet*, we got the cap shrouds forestay done (with Harken furler rehab) and set about to do the lowers. Oops, his stock didn't have the correct size. No problem. he says, I'll upgrade you, up one size at no cost. No thanks. says I, When will the right size be here? You see, a rigging wire too big is no better than a rigging wire too small and my trusted professional couldn't see that because he works for a living and in this case it probably would not have made any difference and most customers would appreciate getting a more expensive product for the same price even if it didn't do the job as well. Humans are kinda funny in a way. That's probably enough for now, unless someone wishes to get me started on the oxymoron cutter-ketch. Cheers, Russ *Sweet *35 mk-1 Vancouver Island At 07:06 PM 14/05/2015, you wrote: Russ: I too like to use the appropriate nautical term. When we put the standing rigging together for the first time after purchasing the boat, we discovered the top 'aluminum 'through-bolt, 'stud' or 'tie bar' as the rigger from North Sails called it was approx. half worn through by the wire from the main halyard. This yacht shop in the below website advertises what we are talking about as a 'TIE BAR' and threaded at 12mm at both endspic is not of a 'tie bar' obviously. http://www.marinemegastore.com/product-TIE-BAR-UNI_533100.htm And yes, we have the compression tube inside the mast .we used the original one with a new SS piece of metal, whatever it is called, to hold the tangs together. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S On 2015-05-14 3:01 PM, Russ Melody via CnC-List wrote: A little term bitchin' here. The threaded thingy that goes inside the mast to hold the tangs tight is a called through-bolt (even though in most cases it is a stud) not a tie-bar. And it goes inside a compression tube so it can be properly tightened without deflecting the mast sides towards each other. The compression tube was especially important in wooden masts to prevent movement and elongation of holes. I may be pissin in the wind here and I concede most people use the term salon instead of saloon, but I endeavour to preserve to use of as many other old terms as I can. Cheers, Russ *Sweet *35 mk-1 Vancouver Island At 07:24 AM 14/05/2015, you wrote: Mike et al: the most difficult one is getting the cap shroud in its tang and then screw the tang into the tie bar inside the mast.the shroud and the tang have to rotate as one. ___ Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack - terms
Don't have any as good as those. They were used by a friend to tell his wife what to do. She couldn't grasp any nautical terms whatsoever. One of my favorites was coined by a lister, Wally. One many older CC's there is a metal plate on the deck to which a bulkhead bracket is fastened. Wally christened it an oopstang. Another coined term which is fairly widely heard is frapilator or frangilator or similar depending on the area. This is a short piece of line attached to the bow plate to which a jib halyard halyard is attached to pull the masthead forward when sailing dead downwind. Dennis C. On Fri, May 15, 2015 at 9:51 AM, Marek Fluder via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Dennis, This made a laugh of the day for me. Do you have any more of those? Love this list! Marek C320 in Hamilton On Fri, May 15, 2015 at 8:50 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Russ, So calling a halyard an uppy downy line and a sheet an inny outy line doesn't work? :) Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Fri, May 15, 2015 at 12:12 AM, Russ Melody via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Rob, I can understand your confusion with a term you are comfortable using as it was provided by a rigger you trust. My intention is not to belittle you or anybody else but to point out to everybody when I see little things start to get outta place. My assumed role is to nudge them back to goodness again. You might have noticed I deleted all reference to you in my reply to - terms. But seriously... providing copy from a mega-store discount website is not the best tactic to dissuade me.. This is precisely how terms get misused and into the mainstream in the first place. If these guys used tie-bar instead of throughbolt compression tubes (check the flange bushings for repair) : http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Tangs-complete/Tangs-complete.htm Or this British guy who is still using looped eyes and admonishing his peers for worrying if an unshouldered mast band is even practical. He references the late great Herreshof on the wonders of through-bolting. http://www.classicmarine.co.uk/articles/Gaffergear/lugs/Mastbands.PDF Then I might call, Uncle! My references are mostly on paper, like a library, and include favourites such as Bruce Bingham, Bob Perry Brion Toss. I'm slowly catching up on Ted Brewer's works since he moved to a nearby island. I have a story with a trusted rigger to share. When replacing the gang on *Sweet*, we got the cap shrouds forestay done (with Harken furler rehab) and set about to do the lowers. Oops, his stock didn't have the correct size. No problem. he says, I'll upgrade you, up one size at no cost. No thanks. says I, When will the right size be here? You see, a rigging wire too big is no better than a rigging wire too small and my trusted professional couldn't see that because he works for a living and in this case it probably would not have made any difference and most customers would appreciate getting a more expensive product for the same price even if it didn't do the job as well. Humans are kinda funny in a way. That's probably enough for now, unless someone wishes to get me started on the oxymoron cutter-ketch. Cheers, Russ *Sweet *35 mk-1 Vancouver Island At 07:06 PM 14/05/2015, you wrote: Russ: I too like to use the appropriate nautical term. When we put the standing rigging together for the first time after purchasing the boat, we discovered the top 'aluminum 'through-bolt, 'stud' or 'tie bar' as the rigger from North Sails called it was approx. half worn through by the wire from the main halyard. This yacht shop in the below website advertises what we are talking about as a 'TIE BAR' and threaded at 12mm at both endspic is not of a 'tie bar' obviously. http://www.marinemegastore.com/product-TIE-BAR-UNI_533100.htm And yes, we have the compression tube inside the mast .we used the original one with a new SS piece of metal, whatever it is called, to hold the tangs together. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S On 2015-05-14 3:01 PM, Russ Melody via CnC-List wrote: A little term bitchin' here. The threaded thingy that goes inside the mast to hold the tangs tight is a called through-bolt (even though in most cases it is a stud) not a tie-bar. And it goes inside a compression tube so it can be properly tightened without deflecting the mast sides towards each other. The compression tube was especially important in wooden masts to prevent movement and elongation of holes. I may be pissin in the wind here and I concede most people use the term salon instead of saloon, but I endeavour to preserve to use of as many other old terms as I can. Cheers, Russ *Sweet *35 mk-1 Vancouver Island At 07:24 AM 14/05/2015, you wrote: Mike et al: the most difficult one is getting the cap shroud
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack - terms
Yeah, and you have to use the colour it is. As in, pull the red inny outy on the left side. Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 At 05:50 AM 15/05/2015, you wrote: Russ, So calling a halyard an uppy downy line and a sheet an inny outy line doesn't work? :) Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Fri, May 15, 2015 at 12:12 AM, Russ Melody via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Rob, I can understand your confusion with a term you are comfortable using as it was provided by a rigger you trust. My intention is not to belittle you or anybody else but to point out to everybody when I see little things start to get outta place. My assumed role is to nudge them back to goodness again. You might have noticed I deleted all reference to you in my reply to - terms. But seriously... providing copy from a mega-store discount website is not the best tactic to dissuade me.. This is precisely how terms get misused and into the mainstream in the first place. If these guys used tie-bar instead of throughbolt compression tubes (check the flange bushings for repair) : http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Tangs-complete/Tangs-complete.htmhttp://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Tangs-complete/Tangs-complete.htm Or this British guy who is still using looped eyes and admonishing his peers for worrying if an unshouldered mast band is even practical. He references the late great Herreshof on the wonders of through-bolting. http://www.classicmarine.co.uk/articles/Gaffergear/lugs/Mastbands.PDFhttp://www.classicmarine.co.uk/articles/Gaffergear/lugs/Mastbands.PDF Then I might call, Uncle! My references are mostly on paper, like a library, and include favourites such as Bruce Bingham, Bob Perry Brion Toss. I'm slowly catching up on Ted Brewer's works since he moved to a nearby island. I have a story with a trusted rigger to share. When replacing the gang on Sweet, we got the cap shrouds forestay done (with Harken furler rehab) and set about to do the lowers. Oops, his stock didn't have the correct size. No problem. he says, I'll upgrade you, up one size at no cost. No thanks. says I, When will the right size be here? You see, a rigging wire too big is no better than a rigging wire too small and my trusted professional couldn't see that because he works for a living and in this case it probably would not have made any difference and most customers would appreciate getting a more expensive product for the same price even if it didn't do the job as well. Humans are kinda funny in a way. That's probably enough for now, unless someone wishes to get me started on the oxymoron cutter-ketch.         Cheers, Russ         Sweet 35 mk-1         Vancouver Island At 07:06 PM 14/05/2015, you wrote: Russ: I too like to use the appropriate nautical term.  When we put the standing rigging together for the first time after purchasing the boat, we discovered the top 'aluminum 'through-bolt, 'stud' or 'tie bar' as the rigger from North Sails called it was approx. half worn through by the wire from the main halyard. This yacht shop in the below website advertises what we are talking about as a 'TIE BAR' and threaded at 12mm at both endspic is not of a 'tie bar' obviously. http://www.marinemegastore.com/product-TIE-BAR-UNI_533100.htmhttp://www.marinemegastore.com/product-TIE-BAR-UNI_533100.htm And yes, we have the compression tube inside the mast .we used the original one with a new SS piece of metal, whatever it is called, to hold the tangs together. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S On 2015-05-14 3:01 PM, Russ Melody via CnC-List wrote: A little term bitchin' here. The threaded thingy that goes inside the mast to hold the tangs tight is a called through-bolt (even though in most cases it is a stud) not a tie-bar. And it goes inside a compression tube so it can be properly tightened without deflecting the mast sides towards each other. The compression tube was especially important in wooden masts to prevent movement and elongation of holes. I may be pissin in the wind here and I concede most people use the term salon instead of saloon, but I endeavour to preserve to use of as many other old terms as I can.         Cheers, Russ         Sweet 35 mk-1         Vancouver Island At 07:24 AM 14/05/2015, you wrote: Mike et al: the most difficult one is getting the cap shroud in its tang and then screw the tang into the tie bar inside the mast.the shroud and the tang have to rotate as one. ___ Email address: mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address:
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack - terms
Not I, but I have trimmed a spinny while holding a red line with white tracer. My spinny inny outty is green with white tracer, both sides. :) Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 At 09:27 AM 15/05/2015, you wrote: God forbid you use red fleck or red trace for the white lines. Dennis C. On Fri, May 15, 2015 at 11:24 AM, Russ Melody via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Yeah, and you have to use the colour it is. As in, pull the red inny outy on the left side.         Cheers, Russ         Sweet 35 mk-1 At 05:50 AM 15/05/2015, you wrote: Russ, So calling a halyard an uppy downy line and a sheet an inny outy line doesn't work?à:) Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Fri, May 15, 2015 at 12:12 AM, Russ Melody via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Rob,àI can understand your confusion with a term you are comfortable using as it was provided by a rigger you trust. My intention is not to belittle you or anybody else but to point out to everybody when I see little things start to get outta place. My assumed role is to nudge them back to goodness again. You might have noticed I deleted all reference to you in my reply to - terms. But seriously... providing copy from a mega-store discount website is not the best tactic to dissuade me.. This is precisely how terms get misused and into the mainstream in the first place. If these guys used tie-bar instead of throughbolt compression tubes (check the flange bushings for repair) : http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Tangs-complete/Tangs-complete.htmhttp://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Tangs-complete/Tangs-complete.htm Or this British guy who is still using looped eyes and admonishing his peers for worrying if an unshouldered mast band is even practical. He references the late great Herreshof on the wonders of through-bolting. http://www.classicmarine.co.uk/articles/Gaffergear/lugs/Mastbands.PDFhttp://www.classicmarine.co.uk/articles/Gaffergear/lugs/Mastbands.PDF Then I might call, Uncle!àMy references are mostly on paper, like a library, and include favourites such as Bruce Bingham, Bob Perry Brion Toss. I'm slowly catching up on Ted Brewer's works since he moved to a nearby island. I have a story with a trusted rigger to share. When replacing the gang on Sweet, we got the cap shrouds forestay done (with Harken furler rehab) and set about to do the lowers. Oops, his stock didn't have the correct size. No problem. he says, I'll upgrade you, up one size at no cost. No thanks. says I, When will the right size be here? You see, a rigging wire too big is no better than a rigging wire too small and my trusted professional couldn't see that because he works for a living and in this case it probably would not have made any difference and most customers would appreciate getting a more expensive product for the same price even if it didn't do the job as well. Humans are kinda funny in a way. That's probably enough for now, unless someone wishes to get me started on the oxymoron cutter-ketch. à à à à à à à à Cheers, Russ à à à à à à à à Sweet 35 mk-1 à à à à à à à à Vancouver Island At 07:06 PM 14/05/2015, you wrote: Russ: I too like to use the appropriate nautical term.à àWhen we put the standing rigging together for the first time after purchasing the boat, we discovered the top 'aluminum 'through-bolt, 'stud' or 'tie bar' as the rigger from North Sails called it was approx. half worn through by the wire from the main halyard. This yacht shop in the below website advertises what we are talking about as a 'TIE BAR' and threaded at 12mm at both endspic is not of a 'tie bar' obviously. http://www.marinemegastore.com/product-TIE-BAR-UNI_533100.htmhttp://www.marinemegastore.com/product-TIE-BAR-UNI_533100.htm And yes, we have the compression tube inside the mast .we used the original one with a new SS piece of metal, whatever it is called, to hold the tangs together. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S On 2015-05-14 3:01 PM, Russ Melody via CnC-List wrote: A little term bitchin' here. The threaded thingy that goes inside the mast to hold the tangs tight is a called through-bolt (even though in most cases it is a stud) not a tie-bar. And it goes inside a compression tube so it can be properly tightened without deflecting the mast sides towards each other. The compression tube was especially important in wooden masts to prevent movement and elongation of holes. I may be pissin in the wind here and I concede most people use the term salon instead of saloon, but I endeavour to preserve to use of as many other old terms as I can. à à à à à à à à Cheers, Russ à à à à à à à à Sweet 35 mk-1 à à à à à à à à Vancouver Island At 07:24 AM 14/05/2015, you wrote: Mike et al: the most difficult one is getting the cap shroud in
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack - terms
Don't forget about the Parking hook, otherwise known as an anchor. Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA. -- Original message--From: Marek Fluder via CnC-ListDate: Fri, May 15, 2015 07:51To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Marek Fluder;Subject:Re: Stus-List Rig - crack - termsDennis, This made a laugh of the day for me.Do you have any more of those?Love this list! MarekC320 in Hamilton On Fri, May 15, 2015 at 8:50 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Russ, So calling a halyard an uppy downy line and a sheet an inny outy line doesn't work? :) Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Fri, May 15, 2015 at 12:12 AM, Russ Melody via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Rob, I can understand your confusion with a term you are comfortable using asit was provided by a rigger you trust. My intention is not to belittleyou or anybody else but to point out to everybody when I see littlethings start to get outta place. My assumed role is to nudge them back togoodness again. You might have noticed I deleted all reference to you in my reply to- terms. But seriously... providing copy from a mega-store discount website is notthe best tactic to dissuade me.. This is precisely how terms get misusedand into the mainstream in the first place. If these guys used tie-bar instead of throughbolt compression tubes(check the flange bushings for repair) : http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Tangs-complete/Tangs-complete.htm Or this British guy who is still using looped eyes and admonishing hispeers for worrying if an unshouldered mast band is even practical. Hereferences the late great Herreshof on the wonders ofthrough-bolting. http://www.classicmarine.co.uk/articles/Gaffergear/lugs/Mastbands.PDF Then I might call, Uncle! My references are mostly on paper, like a library, and include favouritessuch as Bruce Bingham, Bob Perry Brion Toss. I'm slowly catching upon Ted Brewer's works since he moved to a nearby island. I have a story with a trusted rigger to share. When replacing the gang on Sweet, we got the cap shrouds forestay done (with Harken furler rehab) and set about to do the lowers.Oops, his stock didn't have the correct size. No problem. hesays, I'll upgrade you, up one size at no cost. No thanks. says I, When will the right size behere? You see, a rigging wire too big is no better than a rigging wire toosmall and my trusted professional couldn't see that because he works fora living and in this case it probably would not have made any differenceand most customers would appreciate getting a more expensive product forthe same price even if it didn't do the job as well. Humans are kinda funny in a way. That's probably enough for now, unless someone wishes to get me startedon the oxymoron cutter-ketch. Cheers,Russ Sweet35 mk-1 VancouverIsland At 07:06 PM 14/05/2015, you wrote: Russ: I too like to use the appropriate nautical term. When we putthe standing rigging together for the first time after purchasing theboat, we discovered the top 'aluminum 'through-bolt, 'stud' or 'tie bar'as the rigger from North Sails called it was approx. half worn through bythe wire from the main halyard. This yacht shop in the below website advertises what we are talking aboutas a 'TIE BAR' and threaded at 12mm at both endspic isnot of a 'tie bar' obviously. http://www.marinemegastore.com/product-TIE-BAR-UNI_533100.htm And yes, we have the compression tube inside the mast .we used theoriginal one with a new SS piece of metal, whatever it is called, to holdthe tangs together. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S On 2015-05-14 3:01 PM, Russ Melody via CnC-List wrote: A little term bitchin' here. The threaded thingy that goes inside the mast to hold the tangs tight isa called through-bolt (even though in most cases it is a stud) not atie-bar. And it goes inside a compression tube so it can be properlytightened without deflecting the mast sides towards each other. Thecompression tube was especially important in wooden masts to preventmovement and elongation of holes. I may be pissin in the wind here and I concede most people use the termsalon instead of saloon, but I endeavour to preserve to use of as manyother old terms as I can. Cheers,Russ Sweet35 mk-1 VancouverIsland At 07:24 AM 14/05/2015, you wrote: Mike et al: the most difficult one is getting the cap shroud in its tang and thenscrew the tang into the tie bar inside the mast.the shroud and thetang have to rotate as one. ___Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.comTo change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to thebottom of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack - terms
That’s OK Russ, We don’t mind. You’re our sweetest old fuddy duddy” and a very helpful sailor! See ya in Telegraph Harbor where you can teach me a couple more terms. Ha, Lee On May 14, 2015, at 11:01 AM, Russ Melody via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: A little term bitchin' here. The threaded thingy that goes inside the mast to hold the tangs tight is a called through-bolt (even though in most cases it is a stud) not a tie-bar. And it goes inside a compression tube so it can be properly tightened without deflecting the mast sides towards each other. The compression tube was especially important in wooden masts to prevent movement and elongation of holes. I may be pissin in the wind here and I concede most people use the term salon instead of saloon, but I endeavour to preserve to use of as many other old terms as I can. Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 Vancouver Island At 07:24 AM 14/05/2015, you wrote: Mike et al: the most difficult one is getting the cap shroud in its tang and then screw the tang into the tie bar inside the mast.the shroud and the tang have to rotate as one. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack - terms
I'd be happy if more sailors would simply learn the difference between deck, and, topsides. Bill Bina. On 5/14/2015 2:01 PM, Russ Melody via CnC-List wrote: A little term bitchin' here. The threaded thingy that goes inside the mast to hold the tangs tight is a called through-bolt (even though in most cases it is a stud) not a tie-bar. And it goes inside a compression tube so it can be properly tightened without deflecting the mast sides towards each other. The compression tube was especially important in wooden masts to prevent movement and elongation of holes. I may be pissin in the wind here and I concede most people use the term salon instead of saloon, but I endeavour to preserve to use of as many other old terms as I can. Cheers, Russ /Sweet /35 mk-1 Vancouver Island At 07:24 AM 14/05/2015, you wrote: Mike et al: the most difficult one is getting the cap shroud in its tang and then screw the tang into the tie bar inside the mast.the shroud and the tang have to rotate as one. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack - terms
A little term bitchin' here. The threaded thingy that goes inside the mast to hold the tangs tight is a called through-bolt (even though in most cases it is a stud) not a tie-bar. And it goes inside a compression tube so it can be properly tightened without deflecting the mast sides towards each other. The compression tube was especially important in wooden masts to prevent movement and elongation of holes. I may be pissin in the wind here and I concede most people use the term salon instead of saloon, but I endeavour to preserve to use of as many other old terms as I can. Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 Vancouver Island At 07:24 AM 14/05/2015, you wrote: Mike et al: the most difficult one is getting the cap shroud in its tang and then screw the tang into the tie bar inside the mast.the shroud and the tang have to rotate as one. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack - terms
Thanks Russ, I think I represent the younger (I have grey!) generation of sailors on this list and I'm happy to be corrected. Using the right words for things on a sailboat is pretty important .. especially the go parts, and especially when you're underway! Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, May 14, 2015 at 2:30 PM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I'd be happy if more sailors would simply learn the difference between deck, and, topsides. Bill Bina. On 5/14/2015 2:01 PM, Russ Melody via CnC-List wrote: A little term bitchin' here. The threaded thingy that goes inside the mast to hold the tangs tight is a called through-bolt (even though in most cases it is a stud) not a tie-bar. And it goes inside a compression tube so it can be properly tightened without deflecting the mast sides towards each other. The compression tube was especially important in wooden masts to prevent movement and elongation of holes. I may be pissin in the wind here and I concede most people use the term salon instead of saloon, but I endeavour to preserve to use of as many other old terms as I can. Cheers, Russ *Sweet *35 mk-1 Vancouver Island At 07:24 AM 14/05/2015, you wrote: Mike et al: the most difficult one is getting the cap shroud in its tang and then screw the tang into the tie bar inside the mast.the shroud and the tang have to rotate as one. ___ Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?
Rob, you are sort of correct .. my mast is laid down on my boat right now with most of the overhand over the bow. There's at least ten feet of mast hanging over the water up there and it happens to be the top of the mast, right where I needed to unscrew those tangs. I started out as you described, in my tender, going round and round with a little help from the admiral up on deck .. then I realized! Because the shroud is not connected to anything on the other end I could angle it up straight enough to turn the tang without having to go round and round with the shroud. I instantly felt stupid, but relieved that the job got so much easier. Whatever though, you do what you have to do .. I've done weirder stuff than that to make things work on the boat. Thankfully we had nice weather yesterday ... not like the day before when I was fighting wind and waves in my 8' Walker Bay tender to get the rigger aboard. Two grown men, complete with knees and other body parts to further complicate the row, made it kind of an awkward trip. But you gotta do what you gotta do http://i.kinja-img.com/gawker-media/image/upload/s--Ki6lcIT7--/18omqiw9mleoyjpg.jpg . Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, May 14, 2015 at 10:24 AM, robert via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Mike et al: Simple answer.NOcan't be done with the mast up. Several problems doing it with the mast up.the most difficult one is getting the cap shroud in its tang and then screw the tang into the tie bar inside the mast.the shroud and the tang have to rotate as one. I say this as I assume Steve's rig assembles like mine. Steve, did you rotate the tang and shroud as one to remove it from the mast? Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2015-05-13 1:17 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote: Steve Can you not put it up and rig a halyard to the toerail on the affected side? Then when new rod comes you could go up in a bosuns chair to attach it. Might be a bit tricky around the spreader end but I cannot see why it could not be done if you didn’t want to incur more launch costs with cranes. Another option is to lay the mast on top of boat and launch that way and then use a spar crane at one of the local clubs to step the mast. Mike *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List *Sent:* Wednesday, May 13, 2015 12:21 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* Stevan Plavsa *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Rig - crack? The word from Navtec is replace, which doesn't surprise me. I don't see that they have much incentive to tell me to sail with it as is, from both a liability perspective as well as a sales perspective. Oh well, our short sailing season just got shorter :( it's going to be about two weeks before I can get the stick up again. And then I'm not sure where I'll be putting it up. We had an agreement for this Friday for me and a few other boats from our small club to use one of the larger club's cranes. I'm missing out on that party so it looks like I'll be going to one of the sketchy port guys down on Cherry Street. I've had experiences with one of those guys and it was terrible, so I guess I'll try the other guy. Unless any Toronto listers have other suggestions? Thanks, Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 11:15 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I would file/grind/buff down the suspected crack to see what it is. At worst the end is defective and you are sure. I doubt taking 1/64 or less off will make a cracked part any worse. At best after you buff it out there is no crack and the die does not show up you should be good. From your original photo #3 you might try in the middle of the flat part. Michael Brown Windburn CC 30-1 Message: 10 Date: Wed, 13 May 2015 09:24:57 -0400 From: Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Rig - crack? Message-ID: caddevn6a1wlpmnzg6ozbwrpjakr-tugu1z0+dtfugvrbgna...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Rob was by yesterday, bless him for coming out at 7:00pm on short notice .. then putting up with my rowing into the wind and chop. He's a good sport. Did the dye test .. jury is out. He's going to Navtec with the pictures and I should know by today. If I had more time I would replace it on principle but I've got crane time booked on Friday with no idea when the next opportunity might be, more than likely I'de be paying to have it done later in the season. The lost time is more of a concern than the spent money. So, if the rig needs fixing then I'm out for a couple of weeks at least. If not .. then the mast goes up on Friday just in time for our long weekend! If the best case scenario pans out I'll be making plans starting now to have the eye dealt with in the fall, as well as one
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?
I don't have a lot to add on this subject except for some good photographs of a dismasted sailboat--a Catalina 27. The cause of the dismasting was failed chain plates and sailing in 40-50 knot winds. Pictures are on my most recent blogpost. Bob Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230 email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame On May 14, 2015, at 12:21 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Rob, you are sort of correct .. my mast is laid down on my boat right now with most of the overhand over the bow. There's at least ten feet of mast hanging over the water up there and it happens to be the top of the mast, right where I needed to unscrew those tangs. I started out as you described, in my tender, going round and round with a little help from the admiral up on deck .. then I realized! Because the shroud is not connected to anything on the other end I could angle it up straight enough to turn the tang without having to go round and round with the shroud. I instantly felt stupid, but relieved that the job got so much easier. Whatever though, you do what you have to do .. I've done weirder stuff than that to make things work on the boat. Thankfully we had nice weather yesterday ... not like the day before when I was fighting wind and waves in my 8' Walker Bay tender to get the rigger aboard. Two grown men, complete with knees and other body parts to further complicate the row, made it kind of an awkward trip. But you gotta do what you gotta do. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, May 14, 2015 at 10:24 AM, robert via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Mike et al: Simple answer.NOcan't be done with the mast up. Several problems doing it with the mast up.the most difficult one is getting the cap shroud in its tang and then screw the tang into the tie bar inside the mast.the shroud and the tang have to rotate as one. I say this as I assume Steve's rig assembles like mine. Steve, did you rotate the tang and shroud as one to remove it from the mast? Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2015-05-13 1:17 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote: Steve Can you not put it up and rig a halyard to the toerail on the affected side? Then when new rod comes you could go up in a bosuns chair to attach it. Might be a bit tricky around the spreader end but I cannot see why it could not be done if you didn’t want to incur more launch costs with cranes. Another option is to lay the mast on top of boat and launch that way and then use a spar crane at one of the local clubs to step the mast. Mike From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2015 12:21 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Stevan Plavsa Subject: Re: Stus-List Rig - crack? The word from Navtec is replace, which doesn't surprise me. I don't see that they have much incentive to tell me to sail with it as is, from both a liability perspective as well as a sales perspective. Oh well, our short sailing season just got shorter :( it's going to be about two weeks before I can get the stick up again. And then I'm not sure where I'll be putting it up. We had an agreement for this Friday for me and a few other boats from our small club to use one of the larger club's cranes. I'm missing out on that party so it looks like I'll be going to one of the sketchy port guys down on Cherry Street. I've had experiences with one of those guys and it was terrible, so I guess I'll try the other guy. Unless any Toronto listers have other suggestions? Thanks, Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 11:15 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I would file/grind/buff down the suspected crack to see what it is. At worst the end is defective and you are sure. I doubt taking 1/64 or less off will make a cracked part any worse. At best after you buff it out there is no crack and the die does not show up you should be good. From your original photo #3 you might try in the middle of the flat part. Michael Brown Windburn CC 30-1 Message: 10 Date: Wed, 13 May 2015 09:24:57 -0400 From: Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Rig - crack? Message-ID: caddevn6a1wlpmnzg6ozbwrpjakr-tugu1z0+dtfugvrbgna...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Rob was by yesterday, bless him for coming out at 7:00pm on short notice .. then putting up with my rowing into the wind and chop. He's a good sport. Did the dye test .. jury is out. He's going to Navtec with the pictures
Stus-List Rig - crack?
Steve: Instantly, now I feel stupidwe put the standing rigging together just once and we did it the 'dumb way'.around and around but in the boatyard with lots of roomnow I know to angle the shroud up and rotate the tang.daaa I should have known Navtec would have not designed something so complicated. You are doing the prudent thing replacing the cap shroud 'eye' at the spreader. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2015-05-14 1:21 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote: Rob, you are sort of correct .. my mast is laid down on my boat right now with most of the overhand over the bow. There's at least ten feet of mast hanging over the water up there and it happens to be the top of the mast, right where I needed to unscrew those tangs. I started out as you described, in my tender, going round and round with a little help from the admiral up on deck .. then I realized! Because the shroud is not connected to anything on the other end I could angle it up straight enough to turn the tang without having to go round and round with the shroud. I instantly felt stupid, but relieved that the job got so much easier. Whatever though, you do what you have to do .. I've done weirder stuff than that to make things work on the boat. Thankfully we had nice weather yesterday ... not like the day before when I was fighting wind and waves in my 8' Walker Bay tender to get the rigger aboard. Two grown men, complete with knees and other body parts to further complicate the row, made it kind of an awkward trip. But you gotta do what you gotta do http://i.kinja-img.com/gawker-media/image/upload/s--Ki6lcIT7--/18omqiw9mleoyjpg.jpg. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, May 14, 2015 at 10:24 AM, robert via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Mike et al: Simple answer.NOcan't be done with the mast up. Several problems doing it with the mast up.the most difficult one is getting the cap shroud in its tang and then screw the tang into the tie bar inside the mast.the shroud and the tang have to rotate as one. I say this as I assume Steve's rig assembles like mine. Steve, did you rotate the tang and shroud as one to remove it from the mast? Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2015-05-13 1:17 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote: Steve Can you not put it up and rig a halyard to the toerail on the affected side? Then when new rod comes you could go up in a bosuns chair to attach it. Might be a bit tricky around the spreader end but I cannot see why it could not be done if you didn’t want to incur more launch costs with cranes. Another option is to lay the mast on top of boat and launch that way and then use a spar crane at one of the local clubs to step the mast. Mike *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List *Sent:* Wednesday, May 13, 2015 12:21 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* Stevan Plavsa *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Rig - crack? The word from Navtec is replace, which doesn't surprise me. I don't see that they have much incentive to tell me to sail with it as is, from both a liability perspective as well as a sales perspective. Oh well, our short sailing season just got shorter :( it's going to be about two weeks before I can get the stick up again. And then I'm not sure where I'll be putting it up. We had an agreement for this Friday for me and a few other boats from our small club to use one of the larger club's cranes. I'm missing out on that party so it looks like I'll be going to one of the sketchy port guys down on Cherry Street. I've had experiences with one of those guys and it was terrible, so I guess I'll try the other guy. Unless any Toronto listers have other suggestions? Thanks, Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 11:15 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I would file/grind/buff down the suspected crack to see what it is. At worst the end is defective and you are sure. I doubt taking 1/64 or less off will make a cracked part any worse. At best after you buff it out there is no crack and the die does not show up you should be good. From your original photo #3 you might try in the middle of the flat part. Michael Brown Windburn CC 30-1 Message: 10 Date: Wed, 13 May 2015 09:24:57 -0400 From: Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com mailto:stevanpla...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Rig - crack? Message-ID: caddevn6a1wlpmnzg6ozbwrpjakr-tugu1z0+dtfugvrbgna
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?
you wrote: Steve: Instantly, now I feel stupid Welcome to the club. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Rig - crack - terms
Russ: I too like to use the appropriate nautical term. When we put the standing rigging together for the first time after purchasing the boat, we discovered the top 'aluminum 'through-bolt, 'stud' or 'tie bar' as the rigger from North Sails called it was approx. half worn through by the wire from the main halyard. This yacht shop in the below website advertises what we are talking about as a 'TIE BAR' and threaded at 12mm at both endspic is not of a 'tie bar' obviously. http://www.marinemegastore.com/product-TIE-BAR-UNI_533100.htm And yes, we have the compression tube inside the mast .we used the original one with a new SS piece of metal, whatever it is called, to hold the tangs together. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S On 2015-05-14 3:01 PM, Russ Melody via CnC-List wrote: A little term bitchin' here. The threaded thingy that goes inside the mast to hold the tangs tight is a called through-bolt (even though in most cases it is a stud) not a tie-bar. And it goes inside a compression tube so it can be properly tightened without deflecting the mast sides towards each other. The compression tube was especially important in wooden masts to prevent movement and elongation of holes. I may be pissin in the wind here and I concede most people use the term salon instead of saloon, but I endeavour to preserve to use of as many other old terms as I can. Cheers, Russ /Sweet /35 mk-1 Vancouver Island At 07:24 AM 14/05/2015, you wrote: Mike et al: the most difficult one is getting the cap shroud in its tang and then screw the tang into the tie bar inside the mast.the shroud and the tang have to rotate as one. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack - terms
Rob, I can understand your confusion with a term you are comfortable using as it was provided by a rigger you trust. My intention is not to belittle you or anybody else but to point out to everybody when I see little things start to get outta place. My assumed role is to nudge them back to goodness again. You might have noticed I deleted all reference to you in my reply to - terms. But seriously... providing copy from a mega-store discount website is not the best tactic to dissuade me.. This is precisely how terms get misused and into the mainstream in the first place. If these guys used tie-bar instead of throughbolt compression tubes (check the flange bushings for repair) : http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Tangs-complete/Tangs-complete.htm Or this British guy who is still using looped eyes and admonishing his peers for worrying if an unshouldered mast band is even practical. He references the late great Herreshof on the wonders of through-bolting. http://www.classicmarine.co.uk/articles/Gaffergear/lugs/Mastbands.PDF Then I might call, Uncle! My references are mostly on paper, like a library, and include favourites such as Bruce Bingham, Bob Perry Brion Toss. I'm slowly catching up on Ted Brewer's works since he moved to a nearby island. I have a story with a trusted rigger to share. When replacing the gang on Sweet, we got the cap shrouds forestay done (with Harken furler rehab) and set about to do the lowers. Oops, his stock didn't have the correct size. No problem. he says, I'll upgrade you, up one size at no cost. No thanks. says I, When will the right size be here? You see, a rigging wire too big is no better than a rigging wire too small and my trusted professional couldn't see that because he works for a living and in this case it probably would not have made any difference and most customers would appreciate getting a more expensive product for the same price even if it didn't do the job as well. Humans are kinda funny in a way. That's probably enough for now, unless someone wishes to get me started on the oxymoron cutter-ketch. Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 Vancouver Island At 07:06 PM 14/05/2015, you wrote: Russ: I too like to use the appropriate nautical term. When we put the standing rigging together for the first time after purchasing the boat, we discovered the top 'aluminum 'through-bolt, 'stud' or 'tie bar' as the rigger from North Sails called it was approx. half worn through by the wire from the main halyard. This yacht shop in the below website advertises what we are talking about as a 'TIE BAR' and threaded at 12mm at both endspic is not of a 'tie bar' obviously. http://www.marinemegastore.com/product-TIE-BAR-UNI_533100.htmhttp://www.marinemegastore.com/product-TIE-BAR-UNI_533100.htm And yes, we have the compression tube inside the mast .we used the original one with a new SS piece of metal, whatever it is called, to hold the tangs together. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S On 2015-05-14 3:01 PM, Russ Melody via CnC-List wrote: A little term bitchin' here. The threaded thingy that goes inside the mast to hold the tangs tight is a called through-bolt (even though in most cases it is a stud) not a tie-bar. And it goes inside a compression tube so it can be properly tightened without deflecting the mast sides towards each other. The compression tube was especially important in wooden masts to prevent movement and elongation of holes. I may be pissin in the wind here and I concede most people use the term salon instead of saloon, but I endeavour to preserve to use of as many other old terms as I can. Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 Vancouver Island At 07:24 AM 14/05/2015, you wrote: Mike et al: the most difficult one is getting the cap shroud in its tang and then screw the tang into the tie bar inside the mast.the shroud and the tang have to rotate as one. ___ Email address: mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.comhttp://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?
Oops. Correction by a boat buck. Sweet's gang replacement was $1200, not 200. Of course, we don't get much of anything for a boat if $200 is all ya got. Cheers, Russ At 05:18 PM 12/05/2015, you wrote: 250 bucks for a swaged eye terminal?? Wow, glad I'm wire. Sweet's gang, sans backstay, was less than $200... installed! Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 Vancouver Island At 12:01 PM 12/05/2015, you wrote: Thanks for the replies everyone. Rigger is stopping by tonight to have a look. Not sure if he's bringing dye but he's already given me a price for replacing the eye alone, about $250 plus. I just want peace of mind. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?
Rob was by yesterday, bless him for coming out at 7:00pm on short notice .. then putting up with my rowing into the wind and chop. He's a good sport. Did the dye test .. jury is out. He's going to Navtec with the pictures and I should know by today. If I had more time I would replace it on principle but I've got crane time booked on Friday with no idea when the next opportunity might be, more than likely I'de be paying to have it done later in the season. The lost time is more of a concern than the spent money. So, if the rig needs fixing then I'm out for a couple of weeks at least. If not .. then the mast goes up on Friday just in time for our long weekend! If the best case scenario pans out I'll be making plans starting now to have the eye dealt with in the fall, as well as one seized tie bar, otherwise the rig is sound. I was hoping to spend boat bucks on a new cabin sole and running rigging this year. We shall see. Cheers, Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 9:00 AM, Russ Melody via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Oops. Correction by a boat buck. Sweet's gang replacement was $1200, not 200. Of course, we don't get much of anything for a boat if $200 is all ya got. Cheers, Russ At 05:18 PM 12/05/2015, you wrote: 250 bucks for a swaged eye terminal?? Wow, glad I'm wire. Sweet's gang, sans backstay, was less than $200... installed! Cheers, Russ *Sweet *35 mk-1 Vancouver Island At 12:01 PM 12/05/2015, you wrote: Thanks for the replies everyone. Rigger is stopping by tonight to have a look. Not sure if he's bringing dye but he's already given me a price for replacing the eye alone, about $250 plus. I just want peace of mind. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?
I would file/grind/buff down the suspected crack to see what it is. At worst the end is defective and you are sure. I doubt taking 1/64 or less off will make a cracked part any worse. At best after you buff it out there is no crack and the die does not show up you should be good. From your original photo #3 you might try in the middle of the flat part. Michael Brown Windburn CC 30-1 Message: 10 Date: Wed, 13 May 2015 09:24:57 -0400 From: Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Rig - crack? Message-ID: caddevn6a1wlpmnzg6ozbwrpjakr-tugu1z0+dtfugvrbgna...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Rob was by yesterday, bless him for coming out at 7:00pm on short notice .. then putting up with my rowing into the wind and chop. He's a good sport. Did the dye test .. jury is out. He's going to Navtec with the pictures and I should know by today. If I had more time I would replace it on principle but I've got crane time booked on Friday with no idea when the next opportunity might be, more than likely I'de be paying to have it done later in the season. The lost time is more of a concern than the spent money. So, if the rig needs fixing then I'm out for a couple of weeks at least. If not .. then the mast goes up on Friday just in time for our long weekend! If the best case scenario pans out I'll be making plans starting now to have the eye dealt with in the fall, as well as one seized tie bar, otherwise the rig is sound. I was hoping to spend boat bucks on a new cabin sole and running rigging this year. We shall see. Cheers, Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?
No idea. Rigger is over an hour away. As it stands now he's asked me to ship him the upper *and* lower so that he can ensure the new fitting fits with the rest of the rig. 3' to 4' coils is what was recommended, which sounds tight to me but he's the expert so I trust him. I'll be off to the boat to collect the two pieces of rod after work today, then straight to purolator. This must be some kind of sign .. I think that Neptune is telling me to move my boat to Georgian bay. I bet I can get it trucked up there by the time that rod is ready. I'm already paid up for the season though so I guess I'de be a fool to do it. Georgian bay is calling though. One can only sail to the thousand islands so many times (two and three week trips both of the past two years, time to start spending vacation time a little differently). Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 11:29 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Maybe I'm a fool for suggesting this but any reason you can't replace that rod with the mast up? On May 13, 2015 11:21 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: The word from Navtec is replace, which doesn't surprise me. I don't see that they have much incentive to tell me to sail with it as is, from both a liability perspective as well as a sales perspective. Oh well, our short sailing season just got shorter :( it's going to be about two weeks before I can get the stick up again. And then I'm not sure where I'll be putting it up. We had an agreement for this Friday for me and a few other boats from our small club to use one of the larger club's cranes. I'm missing out on that party so it looks like I'll be going to one of the sketchy port guys down on Cherry Street. I've had experiences with one of those guys and it was terrible, so I guess I'll try the other guy. Unless any Toronto listers have other suggestions? Thanks, Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 11:15 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I would file/grind/buff down the suspected crack to see what it is. At worst the end is defective and you are sure. I doubt taking 1/64 or less off will make a cracked part any worse. At best after you buff it out there is no crack and the die does not show up you should be good. From your original photo #3 you might try in the middle of the flat part. Michael Brown Windburn CC 30-1 Message: 10 Date: Wed, 13 May 2015 09:24:57 -0400 From: Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Rig - crack? Message-ID: caddevn6a1wlpmnzg6ozbwrpjakr-tugu1z0+dtfugvrbgna...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Rob was by yesterday, bless him for coming out at 7:00pm on short notice .. then putting up with my rowing into the wind and chop. He's a good sport. Did the dye test .. jury is out. He's going to Navtec with the pictures and I should know by today. If I had more time I would replace it on principle but I've got crane time booked on Friday with no idea when the next opportunity might be, more than likely I'de be paying to have it done later in the season. The lost time is more of a concern than the spent money. So, if the rig needs fixing then I'm out for a couple of weeks at least. If not .. then the mast goes up on Friday just in time for our long weekend! If the best case scenario pans out I'll be making plans starting now to have the eye dealt with in the fall, as well as one seized tie bar, otherwise the rig is sound. I was hoping to spend boat bucks on a new cabin sole and running rigging this year. We shall see. Cheers, Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?
Steve Can you not put it up and rig a halyard to the toerail on the affected side? Then when new rod comes you could go up in a bosuns chair to attach it. Might be a bit tricky around the spreader end but I cannot see why it could not be done if you didn’t want to incur more launch costs with cranes. Another option is to lay the mast on top of boat and launch that way and then use a spar crane at one of the local clubs to step the mast. Mike From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2015 12:21 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Stevan Plavsa Subject: Re: Stus-List Rig - crack? The word from Navtec is replace, which doesn't surprise me. I don't see that they have much incentive to tell me to sail with it as is, from both a liability perspective as well as a sales perspective. Oh well, our short sailing season just got shorter :( it's going to be about two weeks before I can get the stick up again. And then I'm not sure where I'll be putting it up. We had an agreement for this Friday for me and a few other boats from our small club to use one of the larger club's cranes. I'm missing out on that party so it looks like I'll be going to one of the sketchy port guys down on Cherry Street. I've had experiences with one of those guys and it was terrible, so I guess I'll try the other guy. Unless any Toronto listers have other suggestions? Thanks, Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 11:15 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I would file/grind/buff down the suspected crack to see what it is. At worst the end is defective and you are sure. I doubt taking 1/64 or less off will make a cracked part any worse. At best after you buff it out there is no crack and the die does not show up you should be good. From your original photo #3 you might try in the middle of the flat part. Michael Brown Windburn CC 30-1 Message: 10 Date: Wed, 13 May 2015 09:24:57 -0400 From: Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.commailto:stevanpla...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Rig - crack? Message-ID: caddevn6a1wlpmnzg6ozbwrpjakr-tugu1z0+dtfugvrbgna...@mail.gmail.commailto:caddevn6a1wlpmnzg6ozbwrpjakr-tugu1z0%2bdtfugvrbgna...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Rob was by yesterday, bless him for coming out at 7:00pm on short notice .. then putting up with my rowing into the wind and chop. He's a good sport. Did the dye test .. jury is out. He's going to Navtec with the pictures and I should know by today. If I had more time I would replace it on principle but I've got crane time booked on Friday with no idea when the next opportunity might be, more than likely I'de be paying to have it done later in the season. The lost time is more of a concern than the spent money. So, if the rig needs fixing then I'm out for a couple of weeks at least. If not .. then the mast goes up on Friday just in time for our long weekend! If the best case scenario pans out I'll be making plans starting now to have the eye dealt with in the fall, as well as one seized tie bar, otherwise the rig is sound. I was hoping to spend boat bucks on a new cabin sole and running rigging this year. We shall see. Cheers, Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.commailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?
Maybe I'm a fool for suggesting this but any reason you can't replace that rod with the mast up? On May 13, 2015 11:21 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: The word from Navtec is replace, which doesn't surprise me. I don't see that they have much incentive to tell me to sail with it as is, from both a liability perspective as well as a sales perspective. Oh well, our short sailing season just got shorter :( it's going to be about two weeks before I can get the stick up again. And then I'm not sure where I'll be putting it up. We had an agreement for this Friday for me and a few other boats from our small club to use one of the larger club's cranes. I'm missing out on that party so it looks like I'll be going to one of the sketchy port guys down on Cherry Street. I've had experiences with one of those guys and it was terrible, so I guess I'll try the other guy. Unless any Toronto listers have other suggestions? Thanks, Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 11:15 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I would file/grind/buff down the suspected crack to see what it is. At worst the end is defective and you are sure. I doubt taking 1/64 or less off will make a cracked part any worse. At best after you buff it out there is no crack and the die does not show up you should be good. From your original photo #3 you might try in the middle of the flat part. Michael Brown Windburn CC 30-1 Message: 10 Date: Wed, 13 May 2015 09:24:57 -0400 From: Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Rig - crack? Message-ID: caddevn6a1wlpmnzg6ozbwrpjakr-tugu1z0+dtfugvrbgna...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Rob was by yesterday, bless him for coming out at 7:00pm on short notice .. then putting up with my rowing into the wind and chop. He's a good sport. Did the dye test .. jury is out. He's going to Navtec with the pictures and I should know by today. If I had more time I would replace it on principle but I've got crane time booked on Friday with no idea when the next opportunity might be, more than likely I'de be paying to have it done later in the season. The lost time is more of a concern than the spent money. So, if the rig needs fixing then I'm out for a couple of weeks at least. If not .. then the mast goes up on Friday just in time for our long weekend! If the best case scenario pans out I'll be making plans starting now to have the eye dealt with in the fall, as well as one seized tie bar, otherwise the rig is sound. I was hoping to spend boat bucks on a new cabin sole and running rigging this year. We shall see. Cheers, Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?
You could try calling Outer Harbour Marina. Mike Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network. Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell. -Original Message- From: Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sender: CnC-List cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com Date: Wed, 13 May 2015 11:21:18 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Stevan Plavsastevanpla...@gmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Rig - crack? ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?
Navtec recommends coiling no less than 200 times diameter. Dennis C. Sent from my iPhone On May 13, 2015, at 10:35 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: No idea. Rigger is over an hour away. As it stands now he's asked me to ship him the upper and lower so that he can ensure the new fitting fits with the rest of the rig. 3' to 4' coils is what was recommended, which sounds tight to me but he's the expert so I trust him. I'll be off to the boat to collect the two pieces of rod after work today, then straight to purolator. This must be some kind of sign .. I think that Neptune is telling me to move my boat to Georgian bay. I bet I can get it trucked up there by the time that rod is ready. I'm already paid up for the season though so I guess I'de be a fool to do it. Georgian bay is calling though. One can only sail to the thousand islands so many times (two and three week trips both of the past two years, time to start spending vacation time a little differently). Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 11:29 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Maybe I'm a fool for suggesting this but any reason you can't replace that rod with the mast up? On May 13, 2015 11:21 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: The word from Navtec is replace, which doesn't surprise me. I don't see that they have much incentive to tell me to sail with it as is, from both a liability perspective as well as a sales perspective. Oh well, our short sailing season just got shorter :( it's going to be about two weeks before I can get the stick up again. And then I'm not sure where I'll be putting it up. We had an agreement for this Friday for me and a few other boats from our small club to use one of the larger club's cranes. I'm missing out on that party so it looks like I'll be going to one of the sketchy port guys down on Cherry Street. I've had experiences with one of those guys and it was terrible, so I guess I'll try the other guy. Unless any Toronto listers have other suggestions? Thanks, Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 11:15 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I would file/grind/buff down the suspected crack to see what it is. At worst the end is defective and you are sure. I doubt taking 1/64 or less off will make a cracked part any worse. At best after you buff it out there is no crack and the die does not show up you should be good. From your original photo #3 you might try in the middle of the flat part. Michael Brown Windburn CC 30-1 Message: 10 Date: Wed, 13 May 2015 09:24:57 -0400 From: Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Rig - crack? Message-ID: caddevn6a1wlpmnzg6ozbwrpjakr-tugu1z0+dtfugvrbgna...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Rob was by yesterday, bless him for coming out at 7:00pm on short notice .. then putting up with my rowing into the wind and chop. He's a good sport. Did the dye test .. jury is out. He's going to Navtec with the pictures and I should know by today. If I had more time I would replace it on principle but I've got crane time booked on Friday with no idea when the next opportunity might be, more than likely I'de be paying to have it done later in the season. The lost time is more of a concern than the spent money. So, if the rig needs fixing then I'm out for a couple of weeks at least. If not .. then the mast goes up on Friday just in time for our long weekend! If the best case scenario pans out I'll be making plans starting now to have the eye dealt with in the fall, as well as one seized tie bar, otherwise the rig is sound. I was hoping to spend boat bucks on a new cabin sole and running rigging this year. We shall see. Cheers, Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?
The word from Navtec is replace, which doesn't surprise me. I don't see that they have much incentive to tell me to sail with it as is, from both a liability perspective as well as a sales perspective. Oh well, our short sailing season just got shorter :( it's going to be about two weeks before I can get the stick up again. And then I'm not sure where I'll be putting it up. We had an agreement for this Friday for me and a few other boats from our small club to use one of the larger club's cranes. I'm missing out on that party so it looks like I'll be going to one of the sketchy port guys down on Cherry Street. I've had experiences with one of those guys and it was terrible, so I guess I'll try the other guy. Unless any Toronto listers have other suggestions? Thanks, Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 11:15 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I would file/grind/buff down the suspected crack to see what it is. At worst the end is defective and you are sure. I doubt taking 1/64 or less off will make a cracked part any worse. At best after you buff it out there is no crack and the die does not show up you should be good. From your original photo #3 you might try in the middle of the flat part. Michael Brown Windburn CC 30-1 Message: 10 Date: Wed, 13 May 2015 09:24:57 -0400 From: Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Rig - crack? Message-ID: caddevn6a1wlpmnzg6ozbwrpjakr-tugu1z0+dtfugvrbgna...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Rob was by yesterday, bless him for coming out at 7:00pm on short notice .. then putting up with my rowing into the wind and chop. He's a good sport. Did the dye test .. jury is out. He's going to Navtec with the pictures and I should know by today. If I had more time I would replace it on principle but I've got crane time booked on Friday with no idea when the next opportunity might be, more than likely I'de be paying to have it done later in the season. The lost time is more of a concern than the spent money. So, if the rig needs fixing then I'm out for a couple of weeks at least. If not .. then the mast goes up on Friday just in time for our long weekend! If the best case scenario pans out I'll be making plans starting now to have the eye dealt with in the fall, as well as one seized tie bar, otherwise the rig is sound. I was hoping to spend boat bucks on a new cabin sole and running rigging this year. We shall see. Cheers, Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?
250 bucks for a swaged eye terminal?? Wow, glad I'm wire. Sweet's gang, sans backstay, was less than $200... installed! Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 Vancouver Island At 12:01 PM 12/05/2015, you wrote: Thanks for the replies everyone. Rigger is stopping by tonight to have a look. Not sure if he's bringing dye but he's already given me a price for replacing the eye alone, about $250 plus. I just want peace of mind. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Rig - crack?
I am no authority on rigging but are we talking about 'swagging' versus 'cold pressing' .I think rod rigging is 'cold pressed' and there could be a difference in pricingdon't knowjust guessingprobably can't get 'cold pressing' done just anywhere? With a 31 years old original Navtec rod rigged boat, I am paying attention to these threads. A prudent person might not wait until their insurance company or a rig failure caused them to replace their standing rigging. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2015-05-12 9:18 PM, Russ Melody via CnC-List wrote: 250 bucks for a swaged eye terminal?? Wow, glad I'm wire. Sweet's gang, sans backstay, was less than $200... installed! Cheers, Russ /Sweet /35 mk-1 Vancouver Island At 12:01 PM 12/05/2015, you wrote: Thanks for the replies everyone. Rigger is stopping by tonight to have a look. Not sure if he's bringing dye but he's already given me a price for replacing the eye alone, about $250 plus. I just want peace of mind. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?
I don't recall the exact guidelines but if your rod rigging is more than 10 years Old or 20,000 miles it should be replaced. Many insurance companies Require it. There are different levels of rigging inspection also. On May 12, 2015, at 10:10, robert via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Stevan: I agree with Dwight and others to, at the very least, do a dye test. Better still, since you had a rigger do an inspection, have him back to do the dye test. From the pics, it looks like a 'crack' and if it is, you should not sail your boat with it.it is your 'cap shroud'. Just curious, did the rigger inspect the two 'tie bars' between the tangs. When we were first assembling our rig in 2006, we noticed that the top tie bar was almost half cut through by the wire in the main halyard.it was made out of aluminum ...had a machine shop here make us a new one from SShope your rigger inspected them. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2015-05-12 10:30 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote: Hi All, I had a rigging inspection about a month ago, rigger says everything is fine with the exception of a couple of small things I can sort out myself. Nothing to worry about otherwise. Great I thought Mast comes down for the winter up here. This year I removed spreaders and all rigging so I could have this inspection done thoroughly and so I could replace any cotter pins etc. Also easier to store the mast without the spreaders and rod rigging. So I'm putting it all back together yesterday in preparation for crane time on Friday and I notice that the fitting that connects the cap shroud to the spreader is cracked .. I think. I'm going to try to link the images inline, if you don't see them click the links at the end: Um, is this going to be a problem? Looking at it I kind of think yes .. which is a bummer, man. I'm perplexed that the rigging guy didn't notice it or mention it if he did. Thoughts? I'm thinking that maybe the sawing action of that fitting rubbing against it's neighbours (three pieces of rod come together at the spreader tip on my rig, all the pieces are sandwiched and this guy is in the middle) just caused some scoring, but that it's not a crack. If I thought for sure this was a crack I wouldn't be asking the question. I don't want to shorten our short sailing season and I'de like to get the stick pointing skyward asap. Maybe I should just trust the rigger .. I did email him but so far no response. Thanks, Steve Suhana, CC 32 http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/1.jpg http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/2.jpg http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/3.jpg http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/4.jpg ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?
Guidleines: http://www.navtec.net/docs/RiggingService.pdf On Tue, May 12, 2015 at 10:15 AM, Stelios via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I don't recall the exact guidelines but if your rod rigging is more than 10 years Old or 20,000 miles it should be replaced. Many insurance companies Require it. There are different levels of rigging inspection also. On May 12, 2015, at 10:10, robert via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Stevan: I agree with Dwight and others to, at the very least, do a dye test. Better still, since you had a rigger do an inspection, have him back to do the dye test. From the pics, it looks like a 'crack' and if it is, you should not sail your boat with it.it is your 'cap shroud'. Just curious, did the rigger inspect the two 'tie bars' between the tangs. When we were first assembling our rig in 2006, we noticed that the top tie bar was almost half cut through by the wire in the main halyard.it was made out of aluminum ...had a machine shop here make us a new one from SShope your rigger inspected them. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2015-05-12 10:30 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote: Hi All, I had a rigging inspection about a month ago, rigger says everything is fine with the exception of a couple of small things I can sort out myself. Nothing to worry about otherwise. Great I thought Mast comes down for the winter up here. This year I removed spreaders and all rigging so I could have this inspection done thoroughly and so I could replace any cotter pins etc. Also easier to store the mast without the spreaders and rod rigging. So I'm putting it all back together yesterday in preparation for crane time on Friday and I notice that the fitting that connects the cap shroud to the spreader is cracked .. I think. I'm going to try to link the images inline, if you don't see them click the links at the end: Um, is this going to be a problem? Looking at it I kind of think yes .. which is a bummer, man https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24Vlt-lpVOY. I'm perplexed that the rigging guy didn't notice it or mention it if he did. Thoughts? I'm thinking that maybe the sawing action of that fitting rubbing against it's neighbours (three pieces of rod come together at the spreader tip on my rig, all the pieces are sandwiched and this guy is in the middle) just caused some scoring, but that it's not a crack. If I thought for sure this was a crack I wouldn't be asking the question. I don't want to shorten our short sailing season and I'de like to get the stick pointing skyward asap. Maybe I should just trust the rigger .. I did email him but so far no response. Thanks, Steve Suhana, CC 32 http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/1.jpg http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/2.jpg http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/3.jpg http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/4.jpg ___ Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Rig - crack?
Stevan: I agree with Dwight and others to, at the very least, do a dye test. Better still, since you had a rigger do an inspection, have him back to do the dye test. From the pics, it looks like a 'crack' and if it is, you should not sail your boat with it.it is your 'cap shroud'. Just curious, did the rigger inspect the two 'tie bars' between the tangs. When we were first assembling our rig in 2006, we noticed that the top tie bar was almost half cut through by the wire in the main halyard.it was made out of aluminum ...had a machine shop here make us a new one from SShope your rigger inspected them. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2015-05-12 10:30 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote: Hi All, I had a rigging inspection about a month ago, rigger says everything is fine with the exception of a couple of small things I can sort out myself. Nothing to worry about otherwise. Great I thought Mast comes down for the winter up here. This year I removed spreaders and all rigging so I could have this inspection done thoroughly and so I could replace any cotter pins etc. Also easier to store the mast without the spreaders and rod rigging. So I'm putting it all back together yesterday in preparation for crane time on Friday and I notice that the fitting that connects the cap shroud to the spreader is cracked .. I think. I'm going to try to link the images inline, if you don't see them click the links at the end: Um, is this going to be a problem? Looking at it I kind of think yes .. which is a bummer, man https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24Vlt-lpVOY. I'm perplexed that the rigging guy didn't notice it or mention it if he did. Thoughts? I'm thinking that maybe the sawing action of that fitting rubbing against it's neighbours (three pieces of rod come together at the spreader tip on my rig, all the pieces are sandwiched and this guy is in the middle) just caused some scoring, but that it's not a crack. If I thought for sure this was a crack I wouldn't be asking the question. I don't want to shorten our short sailing season and I'de like to get the stick pointing skyward asap. Maybe I should just trust the rigger .. I did email him but so far no response. Thanks, Steve Suhana, CC 32 http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/1.jpg http://webspace.ocad.ca/%7Esplavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/1.jpg http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/2.jpg http://webspace.ocad.ca/%7Esplavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/2.jpg http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/3.jpg http://webspace.ocad.ca/%7Esplavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/3.jpg http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/4.jpg http://webspace.ocad.ca/%7Esplavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/4.jpg ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?
Sure looks like a crack in the pictures. Try a dye penetrant perhaps if you can't tell for sure? On Tue, May 12, 2015 at 9:30 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi All, I had a rigging inspection about a month ago, rigger says everything is fine with the exception of a couple of small things I can sort out myself. Nothing to worry about otherwise. Great I thought Mast comes down for the winter up here. This year I removed spreaders and all rigging so I could have this inspection done thoroughly and so I could replace any cotter pins etc. Also easier to store the mast without the spreaders and rod rigging. So I'm putting it all back together yesterday in preparation for crane time on Friday and I notice that the fitting that connects the cap shroud to the spreader is cracked .. I think. I'm going to try to link the images inline, if you don't see them click the links at the end: Um, is this going to be a problem? Looking at it I kind of think yes .. which is a bummer, man https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24Vlt-lpVOY. I'm perplexed that the rigging guy didn't notice it or mention it if he did. Thoughts? I'm thinking that maybe the sawing action of that fitting rubbing against it's neighbours (three pieces of rod come together at the spreader tip on my rig, all the pieces are sandwiched and this guy is in the middle) just caused some scoring, but that it's not a crack. If I thought for sure this was a crack I wouldn't be asking the question. I don't want to shorten our short sailing season and I'de like to get the stick pointing skyward asap. Maybe I should just trust the rigger .. I did email him but so far no response. Thanks, Steve Suhana, CC 32 http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/1.jpg http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/2.jpg http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/3.jpg http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/4.jpg ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- William D. Hall, Ph.D. 617 620 9078 (c) wh...@alum.mit.edu ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Rig - crack?
Hi All, I had a rigging inspection about a month ago, rigger says everything is fine with the exception of a couple of small things I can sort out myself. Nothing to worry about otherwise. Great I thought Mast comes down for the winter up here. This year I removed spreaders and all rigging so I could have this inspection done thoroughly and so I could replace any cotter pins etc. Also easier to store the mast without the spreaders and rod rigging. So I'm putting it all back together yesterday in preparation for crane time on Friday and I notice that the fitting that connects the cap shroud to the spreader is cracked .. I think. I'm going to try to link the images inline, if you don't see them click the links at the end: Um, is this going to be a problem? Looking at it I kind of think yes .. which is a bummer, man https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24Vlt-lpVOY. I'm perplexed that the rigging guy didn't notice it or mention it if he did. Thoughts? I'm thinking that maybe the sawing action of that fitting rubbing against it's neighbours (three pieces of rod come together at the spreader tip on my rig, all the pieces are sandwiched and this guy is in the middle) just caused some scoring, but that it's not a crack. If I thought for sure this was a crack I wouldn't be asking the question. I don't want to shorten our short sailing season and I'de like to get the stick pointing skyward asap. Maybe I should just trust the rigger .. I did email him but so far no response. Thanks, Steve Suhana, CC 32 http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/1.jpg http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/2.jpg http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/3.jpg http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/4.jpg ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?
So this is about the shrouds that go all the way to the top from the spreader tips, correct? Those are important shrouds, moreso than the intermediates on your 32. You could use dye penetrant yourself whcih is an aid to the naked eye for such inspections. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dye_penetrant_inspection search dye penetrant to find products you could use...if any of these marks are cracks you will get better information from dye penetrant analysis Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, *Alianna* Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net On Tue, May 12, 2015 at 10:30 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi All, I had a rigging inspection about a month ago, rigger says everything is fine with the exception of a couple of small things I can sort out myself. Nothing to worry about otherwise. Great I thought Mast comes down for the winter up here. This year I removed spreaders and all rigging so I could have this inspection done thoroughly and so I could replace any cotter pins etc. Also easier to store the mast without the spreaders and rod rigging. So I'm putting it all back together yesterday in preparation for crane time on Friday and I notice that the fitting that connects the cap shroud to the spreader is cracked .. I think. I'm going to try to link the images inline, if you don't see them click the links at the end: Um, is this going to be a problem? Looking at it I kind of think yes .. which is a bummer, man https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24Vlt-lpVOY. I'm perplexed that the rigging guy didn't notice it or mention it if he did. Thoughts? I'm thinking that maybe the sawing action of that fitting rubbing against it's neighbours (three pieces of rod come together at the spreader tip on my rig, all the pieces are sandwiched and this guy is in the middle) just caused some scoring, but that it's not a crack. If I thought for sure this was a crack I wouldn't be asking the question. I don't want to shorten our short sailing season and I'de like to get the stick pointing skyward asap. Maybe I should just trust the rigger .. I did email him but so far no response. Thanks, Steve Suhana, CC 32 http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/1.jpg http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/2.jpg http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/3.jpg http://webspace.ocad.ca/~splavsa/images/Sailing/Rig/4.jpg ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?
You can use a dye penetrant (available from Grainger, Fastenal, etc.) to confirm it is a crack. Bob Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230 email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame On May 12, 2015, at 9:44 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Agreed. Have your rigger make up a wire shroud so you can get back on the water. The consequences of if being wrong about it just being scored are too great. Joel On Tue, May 12, 2015 at 9:37 AM, Stelios via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Yes Um, is this going to be a problem? ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?
Yes Um, is this going to be a problem? ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rig - crack?
Agreed. Have your rigger make up a wire shroud so you can get back on the water. The consequences of if being wrong about it just being scored are too great. Joel On Tue, May 12, 2015 at 9:37 AM, Stelios via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Yes Um, is this going to be a problem? ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com