[Drakelist] WTB: VFO knob Skirt for T-4XB
Hello all. I recently purchased an otherwise complete Drake B-line but for some reason the VFO-knob is exchanged to a non-standard one. I managed to get a new knob from eBay/US, but just the plastic part. So the kHz-dial is missing... Searching a skirt or complete knob, even a not-so-good will do, please make an offer to oh...@sral.fi Thomas -- It's good to be green - get a Heathkit! Member of Swedish Heathkit Club #158 FeldHell Club # FH3236 Vy 73 de OH6NT ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] restoring
On Feb 25, 2011, at 9:44 AM, John Hudson wrote: then the unit is power washed with clean distilled water ^ So the dishwasher is not a bad idea provided you don't use the soap, and not sure how simple green would work in a dishwasher. Actually it's a horrible idea. Dishwasher water is municipal water loaded with minerals, chlorine and that favorite of the commies, flouride. (just joking about the commie part). I read on one of these lists that the water used by Techtronics to wash their repairs was naturally pure well water and almost the same as de-ionized water. A far cry from municipal water. Geoff. -- Geoffrey S. Mendelson, N3OWJ/4X1GM Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit
Tom, Thanks for the info... about a month ago I did the upgrade. I carefully followed all his directions, studying the photos too...mine went together fine and is working FB. Wish I would have had your notes firstas it was a little confusing in places. Mostly just not good writing, not really any errors. 73, Lee Lee Simmonds Summit DCS LLC 260-799-4077 Office 260-403-6936 Cell -Original Message- From: TC Dailey To: drakelist Sent: Fri, Feb 25, 2011 12:02 am Subject: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit If you're using HIS kit, one HUGE caveat. His instructions are not very good, and he's really not in the mood to appreciate feedback, so here ya go: Follow his instructions for REMOVAL of all of the components to be replaced + remove ALL old caps (you don't need 'em - who cares what it looks like under the METAL SHIELD?...duh NOW - install the spacers and "fit" the board - leave ALL fasteners loose. Take the board back out. Now skip steps - lengthen all SECONDARY windings of the transformer (except for the filament - they've not been disconnected). RECONNECT all secondary windings to their pad points on the board. At this point most of the confusion is ended. You need only to connect the bias wires (he said they're white - he sent brown wire... no biggie), and the REMAINING wires from the output cable... small orange, small yellow, etc. After it's all hooked up, and you've checked your wiring - bring it up slowly on a Variac so IF you've messed up, you won't fry anything. Once you're happy, tighten up all the hardware, and put the case on. Tom D. - WØEAJ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] restoring
You really do not want to get any water in any transformers. How would you keep it out in a dishwasher? 73, Lee Lee Simmonds Summit DCS LLC 260-799-4077 Office 260-403-6936 Cell -Original Message- From: John Hudson To: Morrell Siegel ; DRAKE LIST Sent: Fri, Feb 25, 2011 2:42 am Subject: Re: [Drakelist] restoring I've sent this out before but looks like it could help again. Some years ago Hewlet Packard has their repair and calibration lab in Fullerton, CA. and I had the opportunity to visit the facility doing a walk through where they take equipment in for repair and all they do to bring the units up to speed and operational. It seems they make sure the unit is working and then take simple green and bathe the whole unit down. The unit was then scrubbed with brushes to get the big pieces off, then the unit is power washed with clean distilled water to remove all grease, girt, and whatever else was there. Once the unit is completely clean the equipment is placed in a large oven at 150-200 degs for several days unit the unit is completely dry. Once its dry the unit is again tested and any/all repairs, alignment and calibration was performed. Once the unit was done it looked brand-new. So the dishwasher is not a bad idea provided you don't use the soap, and not sure how simple green would work in a dishwasher. 73's, De WA6HYQ. -Original Message- From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] On Behalf Of Morrell Siegel Sent: Monday, February 21, 2011 9:13 PM To: DRAKE LIST Subject: [Drakelist] restoring thanks to all that offered advice. looks like the dishwasher is out. the next few weeks with the q tips and tooth brush, a little at a time. mckey wa6fiz ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] WTB: VFO knob Skirt for T-4XB
The needed skirt is found. Real Ham-Spirit! Thank you, and thanks for a great list. Thomas / OH6NT -- It's good to be green - get a Heathkit! Member of Swedish Heathkit Club #158 FeldHell Club # FH3236 ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Drake R-4B
Now that my Drake 1A restoration is complete, it's off to the races with a recently-acquired R-4B. BTW, Hartzell re-painted the 1A cabinet and it looks great. Also, Tom at HayseedHamfest.com provided me with an exact replacement multi-section PS cap for the 1A, although it's not listed on his website. Ready for this? The can is made from copper and looks great against the copper chassis. Perfect retrofit without any hassles. My first R-4B operating impressions below. Keep in mind this unit requires some TLC. - Plenty of sensitivity on all bands. Easily peaks noise with no antenna connected; - High IMD on audio. Listening to the Xtal calibrator, I hear IMD that sounds like perhaps either 60 Hz or 120 Hz is mixing somewhere. It may also be the result of B-H distortion from the output transformer into high quality headphones with a 40-ohm load Z. In any event, I need to investigate further. Overall audio passband response is mediocre. I was expecting a wider audio passband. At this early stage of ownership, the audio is nowhere near the quality of my 1A nor R-4C with Sherwood AF mods; - Audio output tube way too microphonic. I do not sense this much mechanical sensitivity with the 1A receiver and the output stages are similar; - The S-Meter starts at S8 then drifts to down to S0 after about five minutes warm up. Is this behavior normal for the R-4B? Either a weak tube in the AGC loop, leaky cap, or out-of-tolerance resistor changing value with heat may be the root cause. More investigating needed...; - Why the headphone jack on the side and not on the front panel? A target point is marked on the panel for a 1/4-inch jack and the chassis easily supports it. Very strange; - AGC *way* too fast on both settings. Just my opinion, but AGC Slow is more like where I would want the Fast setting. AGC Slow needs R/C help to get its recovery slower. Easy enough to fix; - Nice VFO feel, even better than early R-4Cs, and equal in tuning feel to late R-4Cs with metal/Nylon gears. Excellent PTO stability. I would appreciate any comments on the recovered audio and S meter abnormalities before digging in. Many Tnx to everyone on this list! Paul, W9AC ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake R-4B
Paul - Ripple on Calibrator signal probably power supply ripple, D6, C190, C192. S-Meter drift is gassy tube (grid emission) probably V4 or V5, possibly V1. Phones jack 'used' to be on the front panel, but interfered with the controls on either side. Note small circle where phones jack USED to be. The hole IS in the subchassis as well, so if you want it there, yours won't be the first to have it! AGC SLOW cap is C109. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs Paul Christensen wrote: Now that my Drake 1A restoration is complete, it's off to the races with a recently-acquired R-4B. BTW, Hartzell re-painted the 1A cabinet and it looks great. Also, Tom at HayseedHamfest.com provided me with an exact replacement multi-section PS cap for the 1A, although it's not listed on his website. Ready for this? The can is made from copper and looks great against the copper chassis. Perfect retrofit without any hassles. My first R-4B operating impressions below. Keep in mind this unit requires some TLC. - Plenty of sensitivity on all bands. Easily peaks noise with no antenna connected; - High IMD on audio. Listening to the Xtal calibrator, I hear IMD that sounds like perhaps either 60 Hz or 120 Hz is mixing somewhere. It may also be the result of B-H distortion from the output transformer into high quality headphones with a 40-ohm load Z. In any event, I need to investigate further. Overall audio passband response is mediocre. I was expecting a wider audio passband. At this early stage of ownership, the audio is nowhere near the quality of my 1A nor R-4C with Sherwood AF mods; - Audio output tube way too microphonic. I do not sense this much mechanical sensitivity with the 1A receiver and the output stages are similar; - The S-Meter starts at S8 then drifts to down to S0 after about five minutes warm up. Is this behavior normal for the R-4B? Either a weak tube in the AGC loop, leaky cap, or out-of-tolerance resistor changing value with heat may be the root cause. More investigating needed...; - Why the headphone jack on the side and not on the front panel? A target point is marked on the panel for a 1/4-inch jack and the chassis easily supports it. Very strange; - AGC *way* too fast on both settings. Just my opinion, but AGC Slow is more like where I would want the Fast setting. AGC Slow needs R/C help to get its recovery slower. Easy enough to fix; - Nice VFO feel, even better than early R-4Cs, and equal in tuning feel to late R-4Cs with metal/Nylon gears. Excellent PTO stability. I would appreciate any comments on the recovered audio and S meter abnormalities before digging in. Many Tnx to everyone on this list! Paul, W9AC ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit
Boys and girls... Well since I'm getting beat up here, I may as well defend my honor. The biggest problem with installing the ac4r is the color codes used by drake changed over production runs. Some units use a gray wire, then next a black wire and sometimes a gray wire with a white tracer. the wire that goes to the radio cable carrying the the +800 volts is really problematic. 1. orange 2. orange with white tracer 3. white with orange tracer 4. red now, pick one! I can't write instructions that cover each and every deviation of wiring codes, so I try and hit in the middle. If there is a shortage wire in the kits, I send a notice that you should use this color instead of that color. If you have a supply with the transformer pointing the opposite way, then that needs to be addressed. Ooh, no threads on the transformer? Oops, you can't mount the PCB there. I'm trying to tell someone that I don't know— if they know what end a soldering iron get hot— and trying to installing a retrofit into a piece of gear 40 years old. It's not a simple task. The number of phone calls from guys who shouldn't be working with electricity scares me. Trying to explain to the guy on the other end how to set his simpson 260 up to read voltage. He didn't know! or the guy that calls on a Sunday night because the bias voltage reads backwards. He's upset because the voltage is negative and he can't figure out way. A hour long phone call shot in the ass trying to explain that bias voltage is negative in reference to ground. How would you react to that? Most of the time, guys don't read the instructions first, and then start cutting away. Then they find out they can't find the black wire from the radio cable because it was gray instead. If anyone would like to sit down and rewrite the instructions, please do so! I'll be more than happy to use YOUR instructions. As far as being in the mood to appreciate feedback, I accept all that I get. I accept criticism as well as most people. If something is wrong, I'll fix it. I just added more instructions and installation hints a week ago. If someone tells me that such and such step is confusing. I'll be more than happy to fix it. It's just words on a computer screen. Tap-tap, they're changed! But... Don't send me emails telling me how stupid I am. How your old sergeant knew more about drakes than I do. Or how you spent 60 years in the navy and my instructions don't meet the TMA codes you're use to. OR send me a photos of two AC4s with the guts ripped out and you don't understand why one has different wires than the other one. I keep and archive all emails, and I got some that would piss off the pope. Really puts you in the mood to appreciate feed back doesn't it? I mean, how you would react if you receive an email from someone you've never met and they tell you how stupid and F**K up you are and how this and that are all wrong in the instructions. How their 12 year old son could do a better job. Tell me Tom, how you would react to that? So, if you don't like the instructions, don't feel I accept and appreciate feedback, then sit down, re-wrire the them so they cover every version of the drake AC4, every possible deviation, and all possible obstacles. Make them crystal clear for everyone on every end of the spectrum. All the old navy comm techs, all the new hams, and everyone in between. And send them to me. I'll trash the one I did and be more than happy to include your new instructions in the kits. I accept Microsoft .doc and .docx files. And... I'll be sure to forward all the emails from people that can't figure out your instructions. And... I'm going to crawl back into the woodwork. This forum is not the place to discuss this any further. mike, wb8vge Mike, WB8VGE SunLight Energy Systems The Heathkit Shop http://www.theheathkitshop.com/ J e e p o|||o "If the facts don't fit the theory, change the facts." Albert Einstein On Feb 25, 2011, at 1:25 AM, Richard Knoppow wrote: > > - Original Message - From: "TC Dailey" > To: > Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2011 9:01 PM > Subject: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit > > > If you're using HIS kit, one HUGE caveat. > > His instructions are not very good, and he's really not in the mood to > appreciate feedback, so here ya go: Follow his instructions for REMOVAL of > all of the components to be replaced + remove ALL old caps (you don't need > 'em - who cares what it looks like under the METAL SHIELD?...duh > > NOW - install the spacers and "fit" the board - leave ALL fasteners loose. > Take the board back out. > > Now skip steps - lengthen all SECONDARY windings of the transformer (except > for the filament - they've not been disconnected). RECONNECT all secondary > windings to their pad points on the board. At this point most of the > confusion is ended. You need only to connect the bias wires (he said > they're white - he sent brown wire... no biggie), and the REM
[Drakelist] Thanks to Experts.
Hi Drake Users I have sure enjoyed all the help from you guys over the years. I have my R-4A T-4X going now and have a nice Drake TR-3 RV-3 AC-4 for sale. If interested please contact me via E-mail. Jim Theisen WB8REH ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 32, Issue 58
Mike, I clearly did NOT over-react to YOUR messages, as you did to mine. I merely attempted to discern where things went, as the descriptions were not clear (at least, to me.. and apparently to others as well). I sent you an off-reflector Email, referencing my offer. If you don't want the assistance, well okay... but with such a NICE product, that's obviously WELL MADE and WELL THOUGHT OUT, I'd think you'd want to sell more of 'em? Just an offer - Tom ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit
Exactly. This is why it used to be that to get your license you really needed to know some theory. I had to DRAW a Harley or a Colpitts oscillator, not multiple guess. 12 years old doing Heathkit stuff with my Dad, there was 250VDC running around, not 6 volts for some transistor. I learned why it was NOT a good idea to plug in a transformer from a TV that had been siting out in the rain. If you can't read a schematic and use a voltmeter and apply reasoning skills, then you really shouldn't be doing this upgrade. I had the same problems with the wire colors, but got beyond the puzzling and got two AC3's fixed up. Good project, but unlike a lot of projects, it's what I call a "zero beers" project. Chuck, K1OM On Fri, Feb 25, 2011 at 10:29 AM, mike bryce wrote: > Boys and girls... > > Well since I'm getting beat up here, I may as well defend my honor. > > The biggest problem with installing the ac4r is the color codes used by > drake changed over production runs. > > Some units use a gray wire, then next a black wire and sometimes a gray > wire with a white tracer. > > the wire that goes to the radio cable carrying the the +800 volts is really > problematic. > > 1. orange > 2. orange with white tracer > 3. white with orange tracer > 4. red > > > now, pick one! I can't write instructions that cover each and every > deviation of wiring codes, so I try and hit in the middle. > > If there is a shortage wire in the kits, I send a notice that you should > use this color instead of that color. > > If you have a supply with the transformer pointing the opposite way, then > that needs to be addressed. > > Ooh, no threads on the transformer? Oops, you can't mount the PCB there. > > I'm trying to tell someone that I don't know— if they know what end a > soldering iron get hot— and trying to installing a retrofit into a piece of > gear 40 years old. It's not a simple task. > > > > The number of phone calls from guys who shouldn't be working with > electricity scares me. Trying to explain to the guy on the other end how to > set his simpson 260 up to read voltage. He didn't know! > > or the guy that calls on a Sunday night because the bias voltage reads > backwards. He's upset because the voltage is negative and he can't figure > out way. A hour long phone call shot in the ass trying to explain that bias > voltage is negative in reference to ground. > > How would you react to that? > > > Most of the time, guys don't read the instructions first, and then start > cutting away. Then they find out they can't find the black wire from the > radio cable because it was gray instead. > > If anyone would like to sit down and rewrite the instructions, please do > so! I'll be more than happy to use YOUR instructions. > > As far as being in the mood to appreciate feedback, I accept all that I > get. I accept criticism as well as most people. > > If something is wrong, I'll fix it. I just added more instructions and > installation hints a week ago. If someone tells me that such and such step > is confusing. I'll be more than happy to fix it. It's just words on a > computer screen. Tap-tap, they're changed! > > But... > > Don't send me emails telling me how stupid I am. How your old sergeant knew > more about drakes than I do. Or how you spent 60 years in the navy and my > instructions don't meet > the TMA codes you're use to. OR send me a photos of two AC4s with the guts > ripped out and you don't understand why one has different wires than the > other one. > > I keep and archive all emails, and I got some that would piss off the pope. > Really puts you in the mood to appreciate feed back doesn't it? I mean, how > you would react if you receive an email from someone you've never met and > they tell you how stupid and F**K up you are and how this and that are all > wrong in the instructions. How their 12 year old son could do a better job. > > Tell me Tom, how you would react to that? > > > > So, if you don't like the instructions, don't feel I accept and appreciate > feedback, then sit down, re-wrire the them so they cover every version of > the drake AC4, every possible deviation, and all possible obstacles. Make > them crystal clear for everyone on every end of the spectrum. All the old > navy comm techs, all the new hams, and everyone in between. And send them to > me. I'll trash the one I did and be more than happy to include your new > instructions in the kits. I accept Microsoft .doc and .docx files. > > > And... > > I'll be sure to forward all the emails from people that can't figure out * > your* instructions. > > And... > > I'm going to crawl back into the woodwork. This forum is not the place to > discuss this any further. > > mike, wb8vge > > Mike, WB8VGE > SunLight Energy Systems > The Heathkit Shop > http://www.theheathkitshop.com/ > J e e p > o|||o > > "If the facts don't fit the theory, change the facts." > Albert Einstein > > > ___ Drakelist mailing list
Re: [Drakelist] Drake R-4B
Gary, Many tnx for the feedback! Paul, W9AC - Original Message - From: "Garey Barrell" To: "drakelist" Sent: Friday, February 25, 2011 10:18 AM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drake R-4B Paul - Ripple on Calibrator signal probably power supply ripple, D6, C190, C192. S-Meter drift is gassy tube (grid emission) probably V4 or V5, possibly V1. Phones jack 'used' to be on the front panel, but interfered with the controls on either side. Note small circle where phones jack USED to be. The hole IS in the subchassis as well, so if you want it there, yours won't be the first to have it! AGC SLOW cap is C109. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs Paul Christensen wrote: Now that my Drake 1A restoration is complete, it's off to the races with a recently-acquired R-4B. BTW, Hartzell re-painted the 1A cabinet and it looks great. Also, Tom at HayseedHamfest.com provided me with an exact replacement multi-section PS cap for the 1A, although it's not listed on his website. Ready for this? The can is made from copper and looks great against the copper chassis. Perfect retrofit without any hassles. My first R-4B operating impressions below. Keep in mind this unit requires some TLC. - Plenty of sensitivity on all bands. Easily peaks noise with no antenna connected; - High IMD on audio. Listening to the Xtal calibrator, I hear IMD that sounds like perhaps either 60 Hz or 120 Hz is mixing somewhere. It may also be the result of B-H distortion from the output transformer into high quality headphones with a 40-ohm load Z. In any event, I need to investigate further. Overall audio passband response is mediocre. I was expecting a wider audio passband. At this early stage of ownership, the audio is nowhere near the quality of my 1A nor R-4C with Sherwood AF mods; - Audio output tube way too microphonic. I do not sense this much mechanical sensitivity with the 1A receiver and the output stages are similar; - The S-Meter starts at S8 then drifts to down to S0 after about five minutes warm up. Is this behavior normal for the R-4B? Either a weak tube in the AGC loop, leaky cap, or out-of-tolerance resistor changing value with heat may be the root cause. More investigating needed...; - Why the headphone jack on the side and not on the front panel? A target point is marked on the panel for a 1/4-inch jack and the chassis easily supports it. Very strange; - AGC *way* too fast on both settings. Just my opinion, but AGC Slow is more like where I would want the Fast setting. AGC Slow needs R/C help to get its recovery slower. Easy enough to fix; - Nice VFO feel, even better than early R-4Cs, and equal in tuning feel to late R-4Cs with metal/Nylon gears. Excellent PTO stability. I would appreciate any comments on the recovered audio and S meter abnormalities before digging in. Many Tnx to everyone on this list! Paul, W9AC ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit
I for one appreciated the availability of the AC-4R. It provided a way to rebuild my AC-4 with confidence that the result would provide reliable power for my Drake T-4X and T-4XB. I photographed the AC-4 wiring with my digital camera from several angles and read the AC-4R instructtions several times before beginning to molest the AC-4. Personally, I found the instructions and photographs quite adequate used in conjuction with the AC-4 schematic. The result tested FB after wiring and has been in use for about a year now with no issues. 73, Curt Kb5JO___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] "Raspy" audio in 2C.
I've had my 2C for over 10 years and it has always worked well. A couple of days ago it developed a "raspy" sound to the audio on all bands. Using the same antenna my Ten Tec Corsair II sounds fine. Any suggestions as to what might be the culprit? John Boyle, VE3PMA___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] AC-4R kit
I bought the AC-4R kit from Mike several montha ago and found the kit very easy to assemble. I think he has the right to assume that one can read a schematic and has had some experience in working with electronics. I made it a opoint to carefully trace all of the leads and compare my wiring with the schematic. The result was that it passed the "smoke test" with flying colors and the voltages were as advertized. Mike has done a great job that has benefitted many Drake owners. John, VE3PMA___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit
Mike, I too found your instructions to be adequate for me, an old retired school administrator, to rebuild one AC4 very easily. I plan to incorporate the same kit in all my AC4's as I can afford it. I found it to be a high quality board, good components, and with adequate pre-planning (pictures, tracing wiring to be sure it matched your colors and noting differences on the instructions) I had NO glitches at all. I do some blueprint checking and technical writing for a local oilfield manufacturer and find that engineers (and designers) are sometimes too close to the project to see all the ways that something can be communicated. That's why they keep calling me back, to sort out what needs to be included (after customer feedback) in future issuances of materials. I simply make suggestions, as I am NOT the designer of the gear, but we find a middle ground that the customer can understand (often in other parts of the world, not the U.S.). Guys, we have far too few vendors willing to supply us with our needs to keep the old rigs running. Mike at the Heathkit Shop, Tom at Hayseed Hamfest, Jeff at Harbach and many others have ALWAYS been courteous and helpful to me. I DO try to warn new hams of the hazards that are faced in the old gear with higher voltages to consider. I usually do it off list, as I have lost very good friends to stupid accidents that could have been prevented. Many new hams have NOT had our experiences since childhood with this stuff. Thanks again Mike, Tom, Jeff and others for making quality upgrades available for our old gear. 73, Don, WB5HAK___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit
I've built two AC-4R's with Mike's kits and they worked fine right away. I got stuck a couple of times, but with a quick check of the schematic and an application of a bit of common sense I got through it. It really wasn't that difficult to figure out. He provides a great product and I haven't made my last purchase from him. By the way, which end of the soldering iron does get hot? OUCH! Never mind. Bob K6GGO Boys and girls... Well since I'm getting beat up here, I may as well defend my honor. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit
Mike; In today's society you never blame fault on yourself or your own ignorance! You have to blame it on others. Installing your AC-4R and the one for the Drake amps is a no brainer if you can read a schematic. You don't even need written instructions if you can read a schematic and understand how the device works. This whole discussion points out how inebt ham radio has become in general over time. I think I have purchased around 20 AC-4R boards and around 3 or 4 boards for Drake amps from you. Never a problem and you supply a great 1st class product and service. There is a discussion going on right now on another reflector over doing some simple math using Algebra. One guy needs to get a solution but doesn't know algebra. I say, go to night school and get some remeadial training. There are just too many people today wanting others to always "bail them out". Lee, w0vt Houston, Texas MikeSubject: Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit Boys and girls... Well since I'm getting beat up here, I may as well defend my honor. The biggest problem with installing the ac4r is the color codes used by drake changed over production runs. Some units use a gray wire, then next a black wire and sometimes a gray wire with a white tracer. the wire that goes to the radio cable carrying the the +800 volts is really problematic. 1. orange 2. orange with white tracer 3. white with orange tracer 4. red now, pick one! ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake R-4B
Now I've done it. After a complete cleaning of the R-4B front panel and associated hardware I cannot get the crystal select switch shaft to engage onto the switch shaft. A brass coupler is used to join the two pieces but I failed to look closely at the relationship between the coupling and the two shafts. Each shaft has a flattened end but I see no what to synchronize them with the brass coupling -- it just spins. It's as if there's another part that I cannot account for. I also found a small curved washer which goeswhere? The larger curved washer is placed on the VFO shaft and I'm fine there. Thanks in advance for any help to get me out of this rut. Gr... Paul, W9AC - Original Message - From: "Garey Barrell" To: "drakelist" Sent: Friday, February 25, 2011 10:18 AM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drake R-4B Paul - Ripple on Calibrator signal probably power supply ripple, D6, C190, C192. S-Meter drift is gassy tube (grid emission) probably V4 or V5, possibly V1. Phones jack 'used' to be on the front panel, but interfered with the controls on either side. Note small circle where phones jack USED to be. The hole IS in the subchassis as well, so if you want it there, yours won't be the first to have it! AGC SLOW cap is C109. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs Paul Christensen wrote: Now that my Drake 1A restoration is complete, it's off to the races with a recently-acquired R-4B. BTW, Hartzell re-painted the 1A cabinet and it looks great. Also, Tom at HayseedHamfest.com provided me with an exact replacement multi-section PS cap for the 1A, although it's not listed on his website. Ready for this? The can is made from copper and looks great against the copper chassis. Perfect retrofit without any hassles. My first R-4B operating impressions below. Keep in mind this unit requires some TLC. - Plenty of sensitivity on all bands. Easily peaks noise with no antenna connected; - High IMD on audio. Listening to the Xtal calibrator, I hear IMD that sounds like perhaps either 60 Hz or 120 Hz is mixing somewhere. It may also be the result of B-H distortion from the output transformer into high quality headphones with a 40-ohm load Z. In any event, I need to investigate further. Overall audio passband response is mediocre. I was expecting a wider audio passband. At this early stage of ownership, the audio is nowhere near the quality of my 1A nor R-4C with Sherwood AF mods; - Audio output tube way too microphonic. I do not sense this much mechanical sensitivity with the 1A receiver and the output stages are similar; - The S-Meter starts at S8 then drifts to down to S0 after about five minutes warm up. Is this behavior normal for the R-4B? Either a weak tube in the AGC loop, leaky cap, or out-of-tolerance resistor changing value with heat may be the root cause. More investigating needed...; - Why the headphone jack on the side and not on the front panel? A target point is marked on the panel for a 1/4-inch jack and the chassis easily supports it. Very strange; - AGC *way* too fast on both settings. Just my opinion, but AGC Slow is more like where I would want the Fast setting. AGC Slow needs R/C help to get its recovery slower. Easy enough to fix; - Nice VFO feel, even better than early R-4Cs, and equal in tuning feel to late R-4Cs with metal/Nylon gears. Excellent PTO stability. I would appreciate any comments on the recovered audio and S meter abnormalities before digging in. Many Tnx to everyone on this list! Paul, W9AC ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit
I installed an AC-4R kit and didn't have a problem with it. Went in just fine without drama. High quality components and the instructions were just fine. I would highly recommend it. Mike Pappas W9CN advanceddigi...@mac.com On Feb 25, 2011, at 10:52 AM, LEE BAHR wrote: > Mike; > > In today's society you never blame fault on yourself or your own ignorance! > You have to blame it on others. Installing your AC-4R and the one for the > Drake amps is a no brainer if you can read a schematic. You don't even need > written instructions if you can read a schematic and understand how the > device works. This whole discussion points out how inebt ham radio has > become in general over time. > > I think I have purchased around 20 AC-4R boards and around 3 or 4 boards for > Drake amps from you. Never a problem and you supply a great 1st class > product and service. > > There is a discussion going on right now on another reflector over doing some > simple math using Algebra. One guy needs to get a solution but doesn't know > algebra. I say, go to night school and get some remeadial training. There > are just too many people today wanting others to always "bail them out". > > Lee, w0vt > Houston, Texas > > > MikeSubject: Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit > > Boys and girls... > > Well since I'm getting beat up here, I may as well defend my honor. > > The biggest problem with installing the ac4r is the color codes used by drake > changed over production runs. > > Some units use a gray wire, then next a black wire and sometimes a gray wire > with a white tracer. > > the wire that goes to the radio cable carrying the the +800 volts is really > problematic. > > 1. orange > 2. orange with white tracer > 3. white with orange tracer > 4. red > > > now, pick one! > ___ > Drakelist mailing list > Drakelist@zerobeat.net > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 32, Issue 60
Ditto here Mike, the instructions were more than adequate and I did cross check with the schematic to make sure; I have also installed the Sherwood mods in my R4C and it too has wire color codes which Drake decided to change during production. Know what you are cutting, desoldering and rerouting before you pull the trigger! 73 de W4DL Mike - Original Message - From: To: Sent: Friday, February 25, 2011 12:00 PM Subject: Drakelist Digest, Vol 32, Issue 60 Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to drakelist@zerobeat.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net You can reach the person managing the list at drakelist-ow...@zerobeat.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Drakelist digest..." Today's Topics: 1. AC-4R kit (John Boyle) 2. Re: AC-4R kit (Don Cunningham) -- Message: 1 Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2011 11:39:26 -0500 From: "John Boyle" To: Subject: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I bought the AC-4R kit from Mike several montha ago and found the kit very easy to assemble. I think he has the right to assume that one can read a schematic and has had some experience in working with electronics. I made it a opoint to carefully trace all of the leads and compare my wiring with the schematic. The result was that it passed the "smoke test" with flying colors and the voltages were as advertized. Mike has done a great job that has benefitted many Drake owners. John, VE3PMA -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/20110225/ec9dde91/attachment-0001.html> -- Message: 2 Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2011 10:49:43 -0600 From: "Don Cunningham" To: "mike bryce" Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit Message-ID: <6FF37A7821E140849A186FB7D7F31AB5@DON> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" Mike, I too found your instructions to be adequate for me, an old retired school administrator, to rebuild one AC4 very easily. I plan to incorporate the same kit in all my AC4's as I can afford it. I found it to be a high quality board, good components, and with adequate pre-planning (pictures, tracing wiring to be sure it matched your colors and noting differences on the instructions) I had NO glitches at all. I do some blueprint checking and technical writing for a local oilfield manufacturer and find that engineers (and designers) are sometimes too close to the project to see all the ways that something can be communicated. That's why they keep calling me back, to sort out what needs to be included (after customer feedback) in future issuances of materials. I simply make suggestions, as I am NOT the designer of the gear, but we find a middle ground that the customer can understand (often in other parts of the world, not the U.S.). Guys, we have far too few vendors willing to supply us with our needs to keep the old rigs running. Mike at the Heathkit Shop, Tom at Hayseed Hamfest, Jeff at Harbach and many others have ALWAYS been courteous and helpful to me. I DO try to warn new hams of the hazards that are faced in the old gear with higher voltages to consider. I usually do it off list, as I have lost very good friends to stupid accidents that could have been prevented. Many new hams have NOT had our experiences since childhood with this stuff. Thanks again Mike, Tom, Jeff and others for making quality upgrades available for our old gear. 73, Don, WB5HAK -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/20110225/d1a6288f/attachment-0001.html> -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist End of Drakelist Digest, Vol 32, Issue 60 * ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] restoring...
I remember when I was in the NAVY and I was stationed at NAS Memphis attending NAVY AT "A School". I was a lowly E-3 (Airman) in 1977. We received a post-Vietnam era surplus Collins S-Line and a complete KWM-2A station for the W4ODR club station. This equipment came from a Marine Base in Vietnam. They were very dirty, had been around smoker's and stunk to high heaven. I remember one Saturday afternoon in utter horror as a I watched the club's lead op, a Gunny Sergeant, take a garden hose with a spray nozzle, a bucket of liquid dishwashing soap-water, and stood there in a pair of "non-regulation rubber yard boots" with a big fat cigar in mouth, armed with the spray nozzle, barking orders and we scrubbed the Collins gear inside and out - spick & span. I remember going back to my barracks that evening knowing without a doubt in my mind that we just witnessed the destruction of a beautiful Collins station. But I dare not say a word contrary to the Gunny - he was a god - his word and orders were never to be questioned. After 7 days of air drying on the next Saturday, the gunny took each piece one at a time (with a big fat cigar in mouth) - visually inspected them, powered them up op checked what needed to be op checked and re-aligned the 75S3C, 32S1, KWM2A and the remote vfo. They worked perfectly and he bought us pizza and a 1/2 case of beer. I will never forget that lesson from that old Gunny. Thanks Art, 73 where ever you are these days, Don Jones KO7i Message: 4 Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2011 23:44:49 -0800 From: John Hudson To: Morrell Siegel , DRAKE LIST Subject: Re: [Drakelist] restoring Message-ID: <591DDEA1FDC6444DB993596115BD144CF0B2352636@VA3DIAXVS031.RED001.local> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I've sent this out before but looks like it could help again. Some years ago Hewlet Packard has their repair and calibration lab in Fullerton, CA. and I had the opportunity to visit the facility doing a walk through where they take equipment in for repair and all they do to bring the units up to speed and operational. It seems they make sure the unit is working and then take simple green and bathe the whole unit down. The unit was then scrubbed with brushes to get the big pieces off, then the unit is power washed with clean distilled water to remove all grease, girt, and whatever else was there. Once the unit is completely clean the equipment is placed in a large oven at 150-200 degs for several days unit the unit is completely dry. Once its dry the unit is again tested and any/all repairs, alignment and calibration was performed. Once the unit was done it looked brand-new. So the dishwasher is not a bad idea provided you don't use the soap, and not sure how simple green would work in a dishwasher. 73's, De WA6HYQ. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit
I agree with the gentleman that said building and installing the AR4 upgrade kit is basically a no brainer. Mike has done an excellent job designing the kit, the board layout is simple and the board is marked where all the parts are placed on the board. This reminds me of the old Heathkit building days. Personally I did not read the instructions, I just looked at a couple of pictures in the manual on how the board mounts to the transformer, assembled the board, mounted it and ran the wires to the proper connections. I then put power to it, it worked perfectly. Since them I have installed over 50 of those kits in AC4's for other hams and never had a problem with it working first time. So like I said, just like building a Heathkit. Maybe it was easy for me, I am one of those old hams that got his license well before the test questions became multiple choice. 'hi hi All this just reminded me I need to order more kit from Mike. 73, Ron / WB4HFN From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] On Behalf Of Mike Pappas Sent: Friday, February 25, 2011 1:04 PM To: LEE BAHR Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit I installed an AC-4R kit and didn't have a problem with it. Went in just fine without drama. High quality components and the instructions were just fine. I would highly recommend it. Mike Pappas W9CN advanceddigi...@mac.com On Feb 25, 2011, at 10:52 AM, LEE BAHR wrote: Mike; In today's society you never blame fault on yourself or your own ignorance! You have to blame it on others. Installing your AC-4R and the one for the Drake amps is a no brainer if you can read a schematic. You don't even need written instructions if you can read a schematic and understand how the device works. This whole discussion points out how inebt ham radio has become in general over time. I think I have purchased around 20 AC-4R boards and around 3 or 4 boards for Drake amps from you. Never a problem and you supply a great 1st class product and service. There is a discussion going on right now on another reflector over doing some simple math using Algebra. One guy needs to get a solution but doesn't know algebra. I say, go to night school and get some remeadial training. There are just too many people today wanting others to always "bail them out". Lee, w0vt Houston, Texas MikeSubject: Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit Boys and girls... Well since I'm getting beat up here, I may as well defend my honor. The biggest problem with installing the ac4r is the color codes used by drake changed over production runs. Some units use a gray wire, then next a black wire and sometimes a gray wire with a white tracer. the wire that goes to the radio cable carrying the the +800 volts is really problematic. 1. orange 2. orange with white tracer 3. white with orange tracer 4. red now, pick one! ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake R-4B
Paul Christensen wrote: Now I've done it. After a complete cleaning of the R-4B front panel and associated hardware I cannot get the crystal select switch shaft to engage onto the switch shaft. A brass coupler is used to join the two pieces but I failed to look closely at the relationship between the coupling and the two shafts. Each shaft has a flattened end but I see no what to synchronize them with the brass coupling -- it just spins. It's as if there's another part that I cannot account for. The ACCY BAND switch is a one piece shaft. Are you speaking of the Passband Tuner shaft?? I believe there should be a flat piece of steel sheet inside the coupling to 'flatten' one side. I don't have a "B" open at the moment. Perhaps someone else can comment? I also found a small curved washer which goeswhere? The larger curved washer is placed on the VFO shaft and I'm fine there. The small curved washer probably goes over the red button on the MAIN TUNING window, between the window and the front panel, to hold the window in place. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake R-4B
Gary & Mark, K4SO. Got it. Turned the set upside down and the flat retention spring came out of "God knows where." Whew...don't want to re-live that again. Tnx for the help. Paul , W9AC - Original Message - From: "Garey Barrell" To: "drakelist" Sent: Friday, February 25, 2011 2:01 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drake R-4B Paul Christensen wrote: Now I've done it. After a complete cleaning of the R-4B front panel and associated hardware I cannot get the crystal select switch shaft to engage onto the switch shaft. A brass coupler is used to join the two pieces but I failed to look closely at the relationship between the coupling and the two shafts. Each shaft has a flattened end but I see no what to synchronize them with the brass coupling -- it just spins. It's as if there's another part that I cannot account for. The ACCY BAND switch is a one piece shaft. Are you speaking of the Passband Tuner shaft?? I believe there should be a flat piece of steel sheet inside the coupling to 'flatten' one side. I don't have a "B" open at the moment. Perhaps someone else can comment? I also found a small curved washer which goeswhere? The larger curved washer is placed on the VFO shaft and I'm fine there. The small curved washer probably goes over the red button on the MAIN TUNING window, between the window and the front panel, to hold the window in place. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] restoring
- Original Message - From: "John Hudson" To: "Morrell Siegel" ; "DRAKE LIST" Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2011 11:44 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] restoring I've sent this out before but looks like it could help again. Some years ago Hewlet Packard has their repair and calibration lab in Fullerton, CA. and I had the opportunity to visit the facility doing a walk through where they take equipment in for repair and all they do to bring the units up to speed and operational. It seems they make sure the unit is working and then take simple green and bathe the whole unit down. The unit was then scrubbed with brushes to get the big pieces off, then the unit is power washed with clean distilled water to remove all grease, girt, and whatever else was there. Once the unit is completely clean the equipment is placed in a large oven at 150-200 degs for several days unit the unit is completely dry. Once its dry the unit is again tested and any/all repairs, alignment and calibration was performed. Once the unit was done it looked brand-new. So the dishwasher is not a bad idea provided you don't use the soap, and not sure how simple green would work in a dishwasher. 73's, De WA6HYQ. I worked for -hp- previous to the move to Fullerton. We used a simpler version of this method. The first step was to remove anything which could be water damaged like meters from the equipment and open up all compartments. The equipment was first washed down with a hose and warm water. Then washed with a paint sprayer loaded with a solution of plain dishwashing detergent in warm water. It was scrubbed where necessary with dishwashing brushes. Then rinsed again with plain warm water and finally blown out with compressed air to remove as much residual moisture as possible. It was then baked in an electric oven set at 130F for at least 48 hours, usually longer if the oven was available. This worked for most stuff and resulted in its looking new. We repainted cabinets but badly worn panels were sent back to the factory to be repainted and the engraving filled. I don't remember any equipment being damaged by this washing process. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake R-4B
Him Paul: There is a small dark metal spring pc that goes inside the brass coupler. It is approx 1/2 or 5/8" long x 1/8 wide made from spring steel. It has a slight arc bent into it. It rides on the two flats of the shafts and is held in place by compressing against the inside of the coupling. The first few times you assemble one, it is a trick needing three hands, but after a couple, it gets easy...many of the T4Xx transmitters used these on the tune and load shafts also. (some have a plastic coupling.) If you really need it, I can take a picture of the set-up for you. FIND THE MISSING PART!! Curt KU8L Paul Christensen wrote: Now I've done it. After a complete cleaning of the R-4B front panel and associated hardware I cannot get the crystal select switch shaft to engage onto the switch shaft. A brass coupler is used to join the two pieces but I failed to look closely at the relationship between the coupling and the two shafts. Each shaft has a flattened end but I see no what to synchronize them with the brass coupling -- it just spins. It's as if there's another part that I cannot account for. I also found a small curved washer which goeswhere? The larger curved washer is placed on the VFO shaft and I'm fine there. Thanks in advance for any help to get me out of this rut. Gr... Paul, W9AC - Original Message - From: "Garey Barrell" To: "drakelist" Sent: Friday, February 25, 2011 10:18 AM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drake R-4B Paul - Ripple on Calibrator signal probably power supply ripple, D6, C190, C192. S-Meter drift is gassy tube (grid emission) probably V4 or V5, possibly V1. Phones jack 'used' to be on the front panel, but interfered with the controls on either side. Note small circle where phones jack USED to be. The hole IS in the subchassis as well, so if you want it there, yours won't be the first to have it! AGC SLOW cap is C109. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs Paul Christensen wrote: Now that my Drake 1A restoration is complete, it's off to the races with a recently-acquired R-4B. BTW, Hartzell re-painted the 1A cabinet and it looks great. Also, Tom at HayseedHamfest.com provided me with an exact replacement multi-section PS cap for the 1A, although it's not listed on his website. Ready for this? The can is made from copper and looks great against the copper chassis. Perfect retrofit without any hassles. My first R-4B operating impressions below. Keep in mind this unit requires some TLC. - Plenty of sensitivity on all bands. Easily peaks noise with no antenna connected; - High IMD on audio. Listening to the Xtal calibrator, I hear IMD that sounds like perhaps either 60 Hz or 120 Hz is mixing somewhere. It may also be the result of B-H distortion from the output transformer into high quality headphones with a 40-ohm load Z. In any event, I need to investigate further. Overall audio passband response is mediocre. I was expecting a wider audio passband. At this early stage of ownership, the audio is nowhere near the quality of my 1A nor R-4C with Sherwood AF mods; - Audio output tube way too microphonic. I do not sense this much mechanical sensitivity with the 1A receiver and the output stages are similar; - The S-Meter starts at S8 then drifts to down to S0 after about five minutes warm up. Is this behavior normal for the R-4B? Either a weak tube in the AGC loop, leaky cap, or out-of-tolerance resistor changing value with heat may be the root cause. More investigating needed...; - Why the headphone jack on the side and not on the front panel? A target point is marked on the panel for a 1/4-inch jack and the chassis easily supports it. Very strange; - AGC *way* too fast on both settings. Just my opinion, but AGC Slow is more like where I would want the Fast setting. AGC Slow needs R/C help to get its recovery slower. Easy enough to fix; - Nice VFO feel, even better than early R-4Cs, and equal in tuning feel to late R-4Cs with metal/Nylon gears. Excellent PTO stability. I would appreciate any comments on the recovered audio and S meter abnormalities before digging in. Many Tnx to everyone on this list! Paul, W9AC ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit
I had the same experience as Curt. worked FB, Thanks Mike. Lee Lee Simmonds Summit DCS LLC 260-799-4077 Office 260-403-6936 Cell -Original Message- From: Curt To: mike bryce Cc: drakelist Sent: Fri, Feb 25, 2011 11:20 am Subject: Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit I for one appreciated the availability of the AC-4R. It provided a way to rebuild my AC-4 with confidence that the result would provide reliable power for my Drake T-4X and T-4XB. I photographed the AC-4 wiring with my digital camera from several angles and read the AC-4R instructtions several times before beginning to molest the AC-4. Personally, I found the instructions and photographs quite adequate used in conjuction with the AC-4 schematic. The result tested FB after wiring and has been in use for about a year now with no issues. 73, Curt Kb5JO ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] T-4XB as exciter
Thank you. Looking at the T-4XB in question, I found that modification was already done before I acquired it, so now I know how to use it. 73 de W3NU On 2/24/2011 11:21 PM, Ron wrote: Charles, Only the first part of an answer. The standard Drake factory mod to bypass/shutdown the finals for Drake VHF transverters is here: http://bama.edebris.com/manuals/drake/trnsvrtr/ Not sure what all else you might need as I am not familiar with the Globe King 500A's other requirements. 73, Ron WD8SBB --- On Thu, 2/24/11, Charles Ring wrote: From: Charles Ring Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XB as exciter To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Thursday, February 24, 2011, 7:42 PM A possible project I would like to do is to use one of my two T-4XB's as a vfo/exciter (cw/rtty) for my Globe King 500A. I know I would bypass the sweep tube final, not sure what other adaptations would be needed. Has anyone done this kind of thing? I would pair it with my R-4B or my R-4C. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] T-4XB as exciter
Charles - The output from the Drake transmitters is only about 0 dBm, or about 0.25V RMS on 14 MHz ONLY. The Globe King 500 probably requires more like 5-10 V RMS input on 3.5 or 7.0 MHz. Also, there are two RCA jacks added to the rear panel that will have a jumper cable between them for normal operation. Removing that jumper disables the PA stage by removing the Screen voltage from the PA tubes. Much better to pick up a Heath HG-10B, Hallicrafters HA-5, WRL 755, or ... 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs Charles Ring wrote: Thank you. Looking at the T-4XB in question, I found that modification was already done before I acquired it, so now I know how to use it. 73 de W3NU On 2/24/2011 11:21 PM, Ron wrote: Charles, Only the first part of an answer. The standard Drake factory mod to bypass/shutdown the finals for Drake VHF transverters is here: http://bama.edebris.com/manuals/drake/trnsvrtr/ Not sure what all else you might need as I am not familiar with the Globe King 500A's other requirements. 73, Ron WD8SBB --- On Thu, 2/24/11, Charles Ring wrote: From: Charles Ring Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XB as exciter To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Thursday, February 24, 2011, 7:42 PM A possible project I would like to do is to use one of my two T-4XB's as a vfo/exciter (cw/rtty) for my Globe King 500A. I know I would bypass the sweep tube final, not sure what other adaptations would be needed. Has anyone done this kind of thing? I would pair it with my R-4B or my R-4C. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] For Sale: Very Nice R-4C
Hello All- I have for sale a very nice Drake R-4C receiver. It is in excellent condition and is in one of the replacement boxes, with styrofoam pillars, that is the same size as original box. These boxes were common when units were sent in for repair. Here is the rundown on the R-4C: Has 3 extra filters, all Drake filters, mounted on rear panel. No AM filter internally, however. Has crystal calibrator. Has cover plate for spare crystals, however no spare crystals. Has original manual. Is all original with no modifications. Serial number is 25,5XX. Works very well, beautiful shape no issues. I am asking 450.00 plus shipping. I would do a partial trade for an excellent condition R-4, R-4A, R-4B, or SW-4. An even trade for an SPR-4, depending on accessories. Thanks All, Byron WA5THJ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] T-4XB as exciter
With regard to Garey's suggestion to acquire a VFO, I have some hands-on experience with the various VFO types with my Globe Scout transmitter that goes back to my early General license days in the 50's. The Globe Scout used a 6V6 oscillator, the same as the Globe King 500A uses, and the only reasonably priced VFO on the market at the time that would drive it on all bands was the WRL 755 with its 6BC6 buffer stage. The others just had the VFO circuit and although I recall being able to eek out enough drive from a Heathkit VF-1 (a Johnson 122 knock-off) on 80 and 40 meters. If you use anything but the WRL 755, the Millen 90711 (with a 6SK7 buffer and 6AG7 amplifier), or maybe a Meissner Signal Shifter, there may not be enough moxie (technical term!) to drive it. 73, Tony K4KYO At 04:07 PM 2/25/2011, Garey Barrell wrote: Charles - The output from the Drake transmitters is only about 0 dBm, or about 0.25V RMS on 14 MHz ONLY. The Globe King 500 probably requires more like 5-10 V RMS input on 3.5 or 7.0 MHz. Also, there are two RCA jacks added to the rear panel that will have a jumper cable between them for normal operation. Removing that jumper disables the PA stage by removing the Screen voltage from the PA tubes. Much better to pick up a Heath HG-10B, Hallicrafters HA-5, WRL 755, or ... 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs Charles Ring wrote: Thank you. Looking at the T-4XB in question, I found that modification was already done before I acquired it, so now I know how to use it. 73 de W3NU On 2/24/2011 11:21 PM, Ron wrote: Charles, Only the first part of an answer. The standard Drake factory mod to bypass/shutdown the finals for Drake VHF transverters is here: http://bama.edebris.com/manuals/drake/trnsvrtr/ Not sure what all else you might need as I am not familiar with the Globe King 500A's other requirements. 73, Ron WD8SBB --- On Thu, 2/24/11, Charles Ring wrote: From: Charles Ring Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XB as exciter To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Thursday, February 24, 2011, 7:42 PM A possible project I would like to do is to use one of my two T-4XB's as a vfo/exciter (cw/rtty) for my Globe King 500A. I know I would bypass the sweep tube final, not sure what other adaptations would be needed. Has anyone done this kind of thing? I would pair it with my R-4B or my R-4C. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] T-4XB as exciter
Tony - Good point! I used a Globe V10 with my Globe King 500A, and it had a buffer output stage too. Never really tried a 'lesser' one. Best idea is to probably replace that 6V6 with a 6AG7 like Leo did!! Hey, yesterday was Leo's 100th birthday!! 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs Richard A. (Tony) Stalls wrote: With regard to Garey's suggestion to acquire a VFO, I have some hands-on experience with the various VFO types with my Globe Scout transmitter that goes back to my early General license days in the 50's. The Globe Scout used a 6V6 oscillator, the same as the Globe King 500A uses, and the only reasonably priced VFO on the market at the time that would drive it on all bands was the WRL 755 with its 6BC6 buffer stage. The others just had the VFO circuit and although I recall being able to eek out enough drive from a Heathkit VF-1 (a Johnson 122 knock-off) on 80 and 40 meters. If you use anything but the WRL 755, the Millen 90711 (with a 6SK7 buffer and 6AG7 amplifier), or maybe a Meissner Signal Shifter, there may not be enough moxie (technical term!) to drive it. 73, Tony K4KYO At 04:07 PM 2/25/2011, Garey Barrell wrote: Charles - The output from the Drake transmitters is only about 0 dBm, or about 0.25V RMS on 14 MHz ONLY. The Globe King 500 probably requires more like 5-10 V RMS input on 3.5 or 7.0 MHz. Also, there are two RCA jacks added to the rear panel that will have a jumper cable between them for normal operation. Removing that jumper disables the PA stage by removing the Screen voltage from the PA tubes. Much better to pick up a Heath HG-10B, Hallicrafters HA-5, WRL 755, or ... 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs Charles Ring wrote: Thank you. Looking at the T-4XB in question, I found that modification was already done before I acquired it, so now I know how to use it. 73 de W3NU On 2/24/2011 11:21 PM, Ron wrote: Charles, Only the first part of an answer. The standard Drake factory mod to bypass/shutdown the finals for Drake VHF transverters is here: http://bama.edebris.com/manuals/drake/trnsvrtr/ Not sure what all else you might need as I am not familiar with the Globe King 500A's other requirements. 73, Ron WD8SBB --- On Thu, 2/24/11, Charles Ring wrote: From: Charles Ring Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XB as exciter To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Thursday, February 24, 2011, 7:42 PM A possible project I would like to do is to use one of my two T-4XB's as a vfo/exciter (cw/rtty) for my Globe King 500A. I know I would bypass the sweep tube final, not sure what other adaptations would be needed. Has anyone done this kind of thing? I would pair it with my R-4B or my R-4C. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] FS: 330 mfd 450 v caps for L4, L4B, L7 power supplies
Fellow Drake enthusiasts, I have one set of ten (10), new, 330 mfd 450 volt snap-in capacitors that can be used to replace the existing power supply capacitors in the L4/L4B/L7 power supplies per the article on the WB4HFN website. You only need 8 for the supply and the extra two can be used for other projects. The extra capacity affords slightly better regulation and the temperature rating is higher than the original capacitors. The set will go for $30 and that includes priority mail shipping to continental US only. Money order preferred. Thanks for reading this posting. 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit
I bought both kits, one for the AC4 and HP-23. Sure, there were a couple of things that I saw as ambiguous, but after careful inspection of the power supply, and it's schematic, I saw that it was my problem, not the instructions. No matter what, I traced everything anyway, making sure all the connections made sense. Both supplies worked perfectly. These kits are the best thing that ever happened to power supplies! 73 Mark N5KAE > >From: John Boyle >To: drakelist@zerobeat.net >Sent: Fri, February 25, 2011 10:39:26 AM >Subject: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit > > >I bought the AC-4R kit from Mike several montha ago and found the kit very >easy >to assemble. I think he has the right to assume that one can read a schematic >and has had some experience in working with electronics. I made it a opoint >to >carefully trace all of the leads and compare my wiring with the schematic. >The >result was that it passed the "smoke test" with flying colors and the voltages >were as advertized. Mike has done a great job that has benefitted many Drake >owners. > > >John, VE3PMA___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] "Raspy" audio in 2C.
John, I don't know about the 2C in particular. This is general advice for tube type equipment. The severe audio distortion that bothers you ear might come from a grid going positive (with respect to the cathode) which causes that tube to operate outside it's linear region ( and introduce distortion). A frequent cause of this is bad (leaky) interstage coupling capacitors which allow some B+ from the prior stages plate to be summed with the much smaller (and negative) grid voltage. I would start with the audio output stage and check for proper voltages (especially on the grid) and work my way backward (towards the front end). If you have something that would make an audio test tone, you could inject a signal at each audio stage and see where it goes bad. Of course if you have a replacement for the output tube, shove it in there and see if it makes any difference. Might as well try the easy thing first, you might get lucky! Do you hear the distortion the same on AM, USB, and LSB? This might give you an idea in case the distortion originates in one of the detectors (demodulators). KB8BKU, Darryl in Dayton On Feb 25, 2011, at 11:17 AM, John Boyle wrote: > I've had my 2C for over 10 years and it has always worked well. A couple of > days ago it developed a "raspy" sound to the audio on all bands. Using the > same antenna my Ten Tec Corsair II sounds fine. Any suggestions as to what > might be the culprit? > > John Boyle, VE3PMA > ___ > Drakelist mailing list > Drakelist@zerobeat.net > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] T-4XB as exciter
Real VFOs have 807s in them! - Reply message - From: "Richard A. (Tony) Stalls" To: "Charles Ring" Cc: "drakelist" Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XB as exciter Date: Fri, Feb 25, 2011 5:04 pm With regard to Garey's suggestion to acquire a VFO, I have some hands-on experience with the various VFO types with my Globe Scout transmitter that goes back to my early General license days in the 50's. The Globe Scout used a 6V6 oscillator, the same as the Globe King 500A uses, and the only reasonably priced VFO on the market at the time that would drive it on all bands was the WRL 755 with its 6BC6 buffer stage. The others just had the VFO circuit and although I recall being able to eek out enough drive from a Heathkit VF-1 (a Johnson 122 knock-off) on 80 and 40 meters. If you use anything but the WRL 755, the Millen 90711 (with a 6SK7 buffer and 6AG7 amplifier), or maybe a Meissner Signal Shifter, there may not be enough moxie (technical term!) to drive it. 73, Tony K4KYO At 04:07 PM 2/25/2011, Garey Barrell wrote: >Charles - > >The output from the Drake transmitters is only about 0 dBm, or about >0.25V >RMS on 14 MHz ONLY. The Globe King 500 probably requires more >like 5-10 V >RMS input on 3.5 or 7.0 MHz. > >Also, there are two RCA jacks added to the rear panel that will have >a jumper >cable between them for normal operation. Removing that >jumper disables the >PA stage by removing the Screen voltage from the PA tubes. > >Much better to pick up a Heath HG-10B, Hallicrafters HA-5, WRL 755, or ... > >73, Garey - K4OAH >Glen Allen, VA > >Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line >and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs > > > >Charles Ring wrote: >>Thank you. Looking at the T-4XB in question, I found that >>modification was >>already done before I acquired it, so now I know >>how to use it. >> >>73 de W3NU >> >> >> >>On 2/24/2011 11:21 PM, Ron wrote: >>>Charles, >>>Only the first part of an answer. The standard Drake factory mod >>>to >>>bypass/shutdown the finals for Drake VHF transverters is here: >>> >>>http://bama.edebris.com/manuals/drake/trnsvrtr/ >>> >>>Not sure what all else you might need as I am not familiar with >>>the Globe >>>King 500A's other requirements. >>> >>>73, >>>Ron WD8SBB >>> >>>--- On Thu, 2/24/11, Charles Ring wrote: >>> From: Charles Ring Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XB as exciter To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Thursday, February 24, 2011, 7:42 PM A possible project I would like to do is to use one of my two T-4XB's as a vfo/exciter (cw/rtty) for my Globe King 500A. I know I would bypass the sweep tube final, not sure what other adaptations would be needed. Has anyone done this kind of thing? I would pair it with my R-4B or my R-4C. > >___ >Drakelist mailing list >Drakelist@zerobeat.net >http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Restoration redux
Food for thought: When car guys are approached with a fairly well-worn, but very serviceable automobile, they don't go in with Q-tips: they rip it apart and restore it. Sometimes they go too far (I just sold an estate HQ-180 to a gentleman who POLISHED the entire chassis and it looks STUNNING -but WRONG!). Bottom line is, if you're trying to make it as close to what it was in nineteen-sixty-something, the first step is to get it CLEAN - and that generally ain't done with a Q-Tip. I didn't mean to advocate throwing the entire rig into a dishwasher without removing meters, transformers, etc., nor to leave it at what the dishwasher can do. Most rigs need a sink- or bathtub-wash and even then, you need to remove the PTO and meters and not submerge the power transformer. Then do a final rinse with DISTILLED WATER. The reward is you remove a LOT of crud AND stink and get the rig back to a known state. You WILL need to do a complete alignment after you troubleshoot the circuits and replace any bad parts. Of course, all of this is predicated by a performance check before any disassembly or washing so that you can compare results. (experienced techs already know this part). BTW, that NC 2-40D I restored was one of the sweetest bathtub restoration projects I ever did, and I still regret the day I sold that receiver, as it had a 6V6 audio stage that just sounded FANTASTIC. Not to mention the mechanical marvel that was the bandswitch carriage. Bought it for $15; sold it for $150 = probably half what it's worth now. 73, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 To be is to do - Socrates To do is to be - Plato Do be do be do. - Sinatra All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended thereto. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit
I thought the kit was of excellent quality and would have bought it with *NO* instructions. Just having it available was a blessing because without it we'd all be truly on our own (read: Some of us would be totally screwed). 73/Paul, K4MSG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit
- Original Message - From: To: ; ; Sent: Friday, February 25, 2011 5:28 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit I thought the kit was of excellent quality and would have bought it with *NO* instructions. Just having it available was a blessing because without it we'd all be truly on our own (read: Some of us would be totally screwed). 73/Paul, K4MSG I had actually repaired my AC-4 which came with some bad caps in it. But, I makeshifted with mounting and was not very happy although it worked. I bought the kit because I thought the PS was folding up under load. Turned out to be something else but I am still happy I got rid of the makeshift. I think its possible that Tom at hayseed hamfest might have can caps to fit the AC-4, he certainly does for the R-4B and other Drake and Hallicrafters stuff. Still, the arrangement with everything on a single, high quality, circuit board is desirable. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] capacitors for sale
Fellow Drake enthusiasts, The capacitors I listed for sale have been spoken for. Thanks for all of the inquiries. Talk with you on the Drake nets and see you at Hamvention. 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
