Re: [drakelist] TR7 power supply problem?
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Floyd - By turning the TR7 off and on rapidly, you trigger a crowbar which will not allow you to turn the rig on until it (The PS) has time to reset. 15 seconds to reset seem a bit over exaggerated, but it is possible that there may be a problem in the protective circuit. 73, Jay/AF2C At 03:14 PM 3/16/2007 -0400, you wrote: Floyd Sense [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- I have a small problem when using my PS-7 supply with my TR7. Haven't taken it to the workbench yet and thought I'd get other opinions first. When I first turn on the TR7, the power always comes on immediately. If later I turn it off and then back on within a couple of seconds, there's no DC power to the TR-7. If I wait for maybe 15 seconds and try again, it will always power on. At first I thought that maybe the switch in the TR7 was acting up, but I can't duplicate the problem when using a different DC supply. Of course,I suppose it could be the AC switch contacts, but the peculiar behavior makes me lean towards a problem in the PS7. Any opinions? 73, Floyd - K8AC -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.11/723 - Release Date: 3/15/2007 11:27 AM -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.11/723 - Release Date: 3/15/2007 11:27 AM -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Power Supply for TR-7(a)
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- GA Jim - I am a bit confused. The RS series Astrons are conventional power suppliesNot switching. Do you mean the SS - 3ØM? The cost of 25A power supply Rating of an SS-3Ø for continuous duty is probably more than you would pay for a PS-7 in good condition. So why go to the trouble and expense of using a PS not meant for your rig? Let's also consider the fact that you would also have to purchase the proper Jones Plug to mate the PS with the TR-7, replace the fan on TR-7 with a 12VDC fan or run a separate AC line to the fan, provide a different switching arrangement if you run an amplifier, etc. etc. Something to thing about. 73, Jay/AF2C At 11:53 AM 3/12/2007 -0700, you wrote: Jim DiMauro [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- I've used a switcher with my TR-7 for as long as I've owned it (about three years) and I've never had either a noise or performance problem. I can't imagine why it wouldn't be recommended. I'd also like to hear the details as to why a switching supply might not be recommended for the TR-7 if anyone can provide them. FWIW, my supply is an Astron RS-30M. Jim W2BVM --- David Drake [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi all, I'm interested in hearing the pro's and con's regarding using a switching power supply with a TR-7(a). I remember this question coming up on the Sunday PM technical net some time ago, but forgot the details. As I recall, it is not recommended, but don't remember why. Thanks David Wd9cmd -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.9/719 - Release Date: 3/12/2007 8:41 AM -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Slow responding SP75
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Hi Dick - Sounds like the new microphone requires that the SP75 be readjusted. Check the procedure in the manual for the SP75. Sensitivity and Compression will be different for different microphones and/or elements. As the you know, the adjustments are on the rear apron of the unit. 73, Jay/AF2C At 10:39 PM 2/18/2007 +0100, you wrote: Drakelist de PA2DW, I have a question regarding my SP75. Recently I started using a home made microphone, with a Heil HC4/HC5 (switchable) element. It sound great! But the one thing that I notice is that the SP75 takes a short interval to notice that I am talking. I think I never saw it before with other microphones, but must admit I am 99% QRV on CW... Wonder if anyone seen this before and has a hint for me. Is it the low level of the HC4/HC5?!? VY 73, Dick PA2DW -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.1/691 - Release Date: 2/17/2007 5:06 PM -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] TR7
Peter - 1. If the filter is 1.8KHz 2. If the filter is not defective 3. If the alignment of the TR-7 on USB, LSB is correct The filter should operate well without using the PBT. It almost sounds like your alignment of the USB and/or the LSB trimmers should be looked into. 73, Jay/AF2C At 09:03 AM 2/8/2007 +1300, you wrote: I have a 1.8 khz narrow SSB filter on my TR7.When using this filter it is very hard to center on speech and is very echo like.Pressing the PBT improves things dramaticlly.Filter works great on CW and almost makes you think it has been mislabelled?Any comments. Thanks Peter Zl2PW No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.30/674 - Release Date: 2/7/2007 3:33 PM
Re: [drakelist] VARIAC CAUTION
If my memory serves me correctlyA variac is a variable autotransformer. Autotransformers have a single winding and, therefore, can not be used for isolation purposes. 73, Jay/AF2C At 01:55 PM 3/26/06 -0500, you wrote: One word of caution. Some folks are under the impression that a variac also acts as an isolation transformer. It is not and offers no isolation at all, so if you are working with an AC/DC (transformerless) set, safety dictates the use of an isolation transformer with or without the variac. 73, John, W4AWM No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.3.1/292 - Release Date: 3/24/06 No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.3.1/292 - Release Date: 3/24/06
Fwd: Re: [drakelist] Follow up to PS7 Regulation Problem
Kevin - There are a number of options available to you, but in all cases you will need an Amp meter in series the output of the PS7. 1. Obtain some automobile headlamps and use them as loads by placing them in series. Probably about 4 will do to produce the 3Ø Amp load. 2. Key down in CW on 2Øm into a dummy load. Adust the output of the TR-7 to draw about 25 to 3Ø Amps...Remember to have the Amp. meter in series with the output of the PS7. 3. Nichrome wire might be used but be prepared for very hot piece of wire. Go to: http://wiretron.com/ and calculate the AWG and length of Nichrome you'll need for a load. This is not the best method, but will work. 4. You might try using Flood Lamps for a load. 5. Use your imagination! 73, Jay/AF2C At 07:49 PM 3/18/06 -0800, you wrote: Kevin LaHaie [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Hello List, and thanks to all the suggestions on the PS7 supply that was shutting down around 4v. The supply is working, and truthfully I am not certain what I did to make it work. I did examine the pass transistors, 3 of which had been replaced, and I think an emitter might have been shorted to the case on the way through the heatsink, or perhaps there was a short to the collector through the mica insualtor. Anyway, it is now working, I have set the adjustment to 13.5v, and with full output on the TR7 in CW mode, a solid, steady voltage. Nice 40 minute QSO on 40 meters and report of great signal and fine audio was reported. Yeah! Now, my final question! What is the best way to set the regulation board to trip at 31 to 32 amps? I know there are lots of ways to load up the amp with calculated load resistance to make it draw 32 amps, but I hardly think that is the 'official' way. any help to a tip / trick to make sure the supply will trip shortly after delivering 30 amps? Thanks in advance! 73 Kevin K7ZS No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.2.5/284 - Release Date: 3/17/06
Re: Fwd: Re: [drakelist] Follow up to PS7 Regulation Problem
True but much too exotic. :-)) How about a couple of 1 Ohm 1ØØ Watt Dale resistors wired in parallel. They can usually be found at electronic surplus stores and amateur flea markets. These wire-wound resistors are surrounded by a large heatsink, are cheap on the used market and make excellent loads for testing power supplies. 73, Jay/AF2C At 11:32 AM 3/19/06 -0600, you wrote: Jim Shorney [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- On Sun, 19 Mar 2006 11:31:20 -0500, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: There are a number of options available to you, but in all cases you will need an Amp meter in series the output of the PS7. Another option is to build a load tester. It's not as complicated as it sounds, especially for someone with a well stocked junque box. Take two or more 2N3055s (good for 15 amps each in theory) and wire them in parallel on a monster heatsink. Don't forget to use emitter ballast resistors (I just used a slinky coil of some solid wire I had handy). Wire up a smaller NPN power transistor to drive it in a Darlington configuration, with a pot in the base circuit of the driver transistor to control the drive current. You'll want some value of fixed resistor in series with the pot to set the maximum drive level, or you'll end up blowing the transistors. I built one of these years ago with 2x 2N3055H, and IIRC have had it loaded up to 20 or so amps with no ill effects. I didn't use an enclosure, all the parts are aerially mounted on the heatsink. Ugly, but it works. It's a handy gadget to have around for testing 12v power supplies. Just don't hook it up backwards or you will let the smoke out of your transistors. The 2N3055 collectors go to +, ballasted emitters to -. I've used the automobile headlamp method too, but this has the advantage of being able to adjust the load current. -- TR7/RV7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C, L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A - all vintage, all the time! No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.2.5/284 - Release Date: 3/17/06
[drakelist] 6JB6 sub
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- The following is listed as substitutes for the 6JB6: 6KM6 73, Jay/AF2C -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.15.6/257 - Release Date: 2/10/06 -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] OB2
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Steve - Don't let the appearance of the OB2 fool you. Some regulators will have what looks like a dark silver area which looks like a burn. This is part of the manufacturing process and may be a remnant of the getter. I presume that you have taken voltage measurements. Are the proper voltages present? 73, Jay/AF2C At 02:21 PM 12/26/05 -0600, you wrote: Steve Berg [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- This is only tangentially related to Drakes since it concerns a Hallicrafters TO keyer, but perhaps someone here on the list can give me some ideas. It appears that the OB2 VR tube has gone to its ancestors. The OA2 seems to be fine, but the appearance of the former is darkened and shows signs of heat. Is there a failure mode for these tubes? In 40+ years of using tube equipment, I have never seen one of these quit before. I have checked out the other components, and nothing else appears to be burned. I do not yet have another OB2 to put in there to test it out. 73, Steve WA9JML -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] 6HS6 replacement/equivalent
The following tubes may be used as a Good substitute for a 6HS6 but NOT as an exact substitute. 6AG5 6AU6 6BA6 6CB6 My advice...Locate some more 6HS6 units. 73, Jay/AF2C At 02:43 PM 12/11/05 -0500, you wrote: [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- hi, I find myself with only 2 good 6HS6 spares - just wondering if there are replacements or equivalents for this tube or should I look for 6HS6 only. This is for my R-4B. Thanks! -- 73 Jason N1SU http://n1su.com/ -- Submissions: drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] OT coax contamination?
I think that you can short one-end and using good GDO, form a small loop at one end and loosely couple the GDO by inserting it into loop measure it as though it is a quarter wave long, but at half the frequency. Use the following formula: V = (length in feet of the cable x frequency)/246 V= velocity factor Another method using the GDO: From CQ Magazine May 1974 here is another method: Measure the length of the coax carefully. Place a hairpin short at one end of the cable and a short loop between the shield and center conductor at the other end...The loop should be large enough to insert the GDO. If you can couple into a very small loop, the readings will be much better...Use of a large loop with show a slightly lower frequency on the GDO. Suppose that you are measuring 1ØØ feet of cable. Calculate what you believe the resonant frequency using a table of known values. Dip the cable. For our example the cable dips at 3.9 MHz The calculated resonant frequency is 4.Ø83 MHz (based on 1ØØft and a velocity factor of Ø.83) frequency = (492 x velocity factor)/ feet frequency = (492 x .83)/1ØØ = 4.Ø83 MHz Now using the described method, find the resonant frequency of the unknown cable an perform the following calculations: V = (feet x frequency of the dip)/492 = (1ØØ x 3.9)/492 = Ø.792 Again look for a loose coupling (shallow dip) I can see the MFJ method as a possibility. The 5Ø Ohm load provide purely resistive load at a fixed value. The meter relies on a 5Ø Ohm load. The method described in the magazine article, utilizing a GDO is not impedance dependent. BTW, the GDO should (after measurement are taken), be placed near a good receiver to obtain the exact frequency of the Dip. 73, Jay/AF2C At 12:14 PM 12/11/05 -0600, you wrote: Jim Shorney [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- That doesn't sound quite right, but the MFJ instructions seem a little wierd. On Sun, 11 Dec 2005 09:31:29 -0700, Peter Hoon wrote: Connect one end of your coax sample to the MFJ 249 or similar unit. Connect the other end with let us say 27 feet of coax to a fifty ohm resistor, between ctr and shield. You can coil up the coax on the floor. You won't get ANY dip with the 50 ohm resistor at the end of the line. That would be a flat line. MFJ wants you to connect an open line to the analyser with a 50 ohm (Non-inductive) resistor in series with the center conductor at the antenna connector. Not sure why, I cut a 144.39 stub filter for my television line by just connecting an open line directly to the analyser; I didn't see any benefit to using the resistor. Measure precisely the length of your contaminated coax sample. Find the dip frequency using the 249 analyzer. For example, a 27 foot length has a dip frequency of about 7.3 Mhz. Start at the LOW end of the range and find the first dip. The line will dip at 1/4 wavelength and multiples thereof. -- Jim Shorney --.--Put complaints in this box jshorney (at) inebraska.com Ham Radio NU0C Lincoln, NE, USA EN10ps http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney/ -- Submissions: drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] 6HS6 replacement/equivalent
Garey - It's a matter of semantics. :-)) I usually rate them as EXACT, GOOD or Doesn't Exist. In a pinch, the substitutes listed will work, but certainly not as well as the 6HS6 which is far superior than the subs mentioned. Yes, I have tried them and do work with degraded performance...I'm an old tube swapper from way back. ;-) I have never seen a 6HS6 bite the dust. Again, just to feel safe, buy a spare or two...As I stated in my original message. I'm kinda partial to Sylvania, Mullard and Amperex. 73, Jay/AF2C At 04:04 PM 12/11/05 -0500, you wrote: Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Jay - Have you actually used any of those subs in an R-4B or other receiver? I'm curious, because I've not had much luck with any of them. In the Premixer stage they all give a slightly lower output but aren't too bad, but in the First Mixer the gain and AGC characteristics are altered significantly. Based on my experience, I would consider them fair subs at best! :-) 73, Garey - K4OAH Atlanta Drake C-Line Service Manual http://www.k4oah.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The following tubes may be used as a Good substitute for a 6HS6 but *NOT* as an exact substitute. 6AG5 6AU6 6BA6 6CB6 My advice...Locate some more 6HS6 units. 73, Jay/AF2C At 02:43 PM 12/11/05 -0500, you wrote: [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- hi, I find myself with only 2 good 6HS6 spares - just wondering if there are replacements or equivalents for this tube or should I look for 6HS6 only. This is for my R-4B. Thanks! -- 73 Jason N1SU http://n1su.com/ -- Submissions: drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] D104 element
Been there...Done that. The Heil element is Low Impedance and for use with most, if not all Drake equipment, a matching transformer should be inserted in the microphone housing to function properly...Proper drive and audio quality. If you are using an amplified D1Ø4 base, there should be no problem using the HC-5. However, I don't know of any Drake which will really benefit thought the use of an audio amp. For the price of an HC-4, you can probably find a real D1Ø4 head and base at any number of placesHamfests, Old Timers shack, garage sale (CB stuff) or maybe your local Emergency Management HQ during one of their yearly cleanups. You never know. 73, Jay/AF2C At 08:08 PM 9/14/05 +, you wrote: [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Hi all, In my humble opinion, the Heil HC-4 or 5 elements are a better replacement option to restore an Astatic D-104 mic. There are instructions for the replacement using these mic elements on the Heil site. I prefer the more broad frequency range of the HC-5 element over the old crystal element for pleasing audio quality and good over all Punch on Drake equipment. Just my opinion, 73, Mike - K7OV Mike Manship [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Joe Roth [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- On the WB4HFN web site it shows a possible replacement for the crystal element in the Astatic D104 mic. The closest seems to be Mouser part #25LM024. Has anyone tried this replacement or am I better off getting on directly from Astatic? Joe I didn't think Astatic had them anymore and that was the reason replacements were being sought. 73 de Mike W9OJ -- Submissions: drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- Submissions: drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
RE: [drakelist] D104 element
I am not sure as to the kit contains, but betcha its either an amplifier or a matching device or both. 73, Jay/AF2C At 03:19 PM 9/14/05 -0600, you wrote: sebdesn [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- There is a kit from Heil for the 104, looks real interesting.. Bud W0HG -- Submissions: drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
RE: [drakelist] D104 element
Bingo! At 05:24 PM 9/14/05 -0600, you wrote: Its a matching xfmr... Bud -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2005 5:00 PM To: sebdesn Cc: drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Subject: RE: [drakelist] D104 element I am not sure as to the kit contains, but betcha its either an amplifier or a matching device or both. 73, Jay/AF2C At 03:19 PM 9/14/05 -0600, you wrote: sebdesn [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- There is a kit from Heil for the 104, looks real interesting.. Bud W0HG
Re: [drakelist] Graveyard, or maybe better: donordatabase ;)
Peter is correct in his analysis of the FoxTango Group and the FoxTango Graveyard. Many of us own both Yaesu and Drake equipment and wish to keep our vintage gear going or allow new amateurs to join the amateur fraternity without investing a fortune...And at the same time they are learning how to dig into their equipment. Many (including myself) have donated equipment and no money has changed hands...We sometimes deal using the barter system or one hand washes the other. Carol, W4CLM is the grounds keeper of the FoxTango Graveyard. He is also a Yaesu guru, much like the many gurus here on the Drake Reflector. Basically, the idea of a Graveyard for Drakes is a great idea and the Yaesu group has the correct idea. The question is...Who is willing to become the Grounds Keeper? 73, Jay/AF2C At 11:11 AM 2/14/05 -0500, you wrote: drakelist@www.zerobeat.net
Re: [drakelist] Graveyard, or maybe better: donordatabase ;)
That's not snarkyThat's a Drake Owner's wise Quack. Stop Honking your horn or we'll send you a bill. Stand in the corner and look ashamed. 73, Jay/AF2C At 11:23 AM 2/14/05 -0700, you wrote: Richard Loken [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- On Mon, 14 Feb 2005, PWells wrote: FWIW the FoxTango group has a working graveyard that has successfully parted and distributed five or six rigs up to now. It's a creation of W4CLM and it runs well because of this amateur's hard work and This the oppertunity to be snarky. Drakes rigs are so healthy that you would have murder one to start a graveyard. FT101's die without any outside help. -- Richard Loken VE6BSV, Systems Programmer - VMS : Anybody can be a father Athabasca University : but you have to earn Athabasca, Alberta Canada : the title of 'daddy' ** [EMAIL PROTECTED] ** : - Lynn Johnston -- On Behalf of Richard Loken [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions: drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] Meters' lamps in L4-b ...
Garey is correct. However, use of a #47 should produce acceptable results. A #47 will produce slightly less illumination, but should last a bit longer than the #1850 at a slight less cost. Both, of course, are available through Allied Electronics. 73, Jay/AF2C At 11:53 AM 2/9/05 -0500, you wrote: Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Joe - The #1850 is a 5V bulb. Newark in the US carries them, and Farnell (their EU partner) should have them or be able to transfer or something? The #47 is a 6-8V bulb. 73, Garey - K4OAH Atlanta Drake C-Line Service Manual http://hr99.home.mindspring.com/R-4C_Servicez/ G.La Parola, IT9BLB wrote: thanks for your cooperation. I confirm that the lamps are GE-1850, I'm not able to know if any direct equivalence with #47 or others. I need just a pair but, considering how difficult is to find them (to me), I can buy a minimum order of 6 or 10/12 if requested by the seller. Joe, IT9BLB/KF6FBC/9H3DC/IH9P/IU9S http://www.ih9p.com TIKIRRIKI CONTEST CLUB *** No moscato passito wine? *** No party! Hi guys, -- On Behalf of Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions: drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] Fw: TR7 Mike Gain
GM Bill - I believe that the microphone can be wired differently to operated on the TR-7. However, if my memory serves me correctly, the second mike input is for Low OUTPUT microphones (The manual does not use the term Lo-Z or Hi-Z impedance for the input wiring). The use of the HC-5 should be OK. The sound of the new cartridge is, in many respects, a product of the cartridge and its environment. If you remove filters in front of the cartridge and support the cartridge with cotton, the hollowness should dissappear. The microphone gain problem may be a product of your voice characteristics or at worse, a problem with the rig. GL es 73, Jay/AF2C At 05:40 AM 1/3/05 -0600, you wrote: - Original Message - From: Bill Carpenter To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2005 8:52 PM Subject: TR7 Mike Gain I love my TR7 SN 7398 and use it quite a bit. I replaced the muddy sounding cartridge in the 7077 mike with a Heil HC-5 element and reports on audio quality are much better now. I was surprised that the output of the mike did not improve. I still need to run the mike gain at about 3 oclock to light the ALC led and get full output on SSB. Since the HC-5 is low impedance I wired it through the transformer in the 7077 so it would match the stock high impedance input of the TR7. Is it possible to wire the mike a different way to increase output? I have heard that later TR7 models have a second low impendence mike input and maybe that would solve my mike gain problem? Thanks and 73, Bill NZ0T
[drakelist] 4-Sale TR-4CW with RIT
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Before this rig goes on Ebay this rig is being offered here. TR-4CW with RIT SN 451Ø5 This model has some of the lettering in Red Cosmetically 9.5/1Ø Electronically 9.9/1Ø Pictures available upon request AC-4 Power Supply. Excellent Condition If interested please email me direct with offers and/or questions. 73, Jay/AF2C -- On Behalf of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] WARC Mod Kit from Drake
Nice station! The original WARC kit as seen are the chips (diode) for the AUX-7 board which would allow the TR-7 series rigs to operate on the WARC bands. Later kits were much simpler and consisted of an Exacto Knife and a brief set of instructions. :-)) 73, Jay/AF2C At 12:12 PM 12/12/04 -0500, you wrote: doc [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Just spotted this in case anyone wants the original Drake WARC Mod Kit: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemcategory=4671item=5736411712rd=1 I know nothing about the seller and have nothing to do with the sale, just thought I'd share the info in case someone has been searching for one of these. -- Thanks! 73, doc kd4e West Central Florida 100% Linux. Suse 9.2 Drake, Icom, Hallicrafters, Heathkit, TenTec, Yaesu Radio Life: http://www.gospelcom.net/twr/ Linux-Incompatible hardware is defective! -- On Behalf of doc [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] WTB - tr7 stuff
Let's not forget the option of using a fan rated at 22ØV. The fan will run quietly at 11ØV with no adverse effects. I have run the 22ØV fans on one of my TR-7 rigs and PS-7 power supplies for years...Not to mention the use of larger 22ØV fans on local repeater P.A. units. The fans will run at a slower speed than rated...But will move a sufficient amount of air. 73, Jay/AF2C At 07:07 AM 10/17/04 +0200, you wrote: Jan Erik Holm [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- You can also use a 12V fan, mounting holes are standard dimension so lots of fans will fit. I found a 12V fan from an old computer PS that had the same dimensions as the FA-7. Also with a 12V fan it´s easy to speed controll it to get the noise down. Since I don´t have the PS-7 PSU it was crummy to use the FA-7 110V unit when there isn´t any 110V available, now my old FA-7 is collecting dust in the junk box. 73 Jim SM2EKM --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi Jeff, You can pick up replacement fans at hamfests for three to five dollars. They are 110V units and fit perfecly. They run faster, pass more air and are a bit nosier than the Drake fans but a WHOLE LOT cheaper!!! I have seen the FA-7s go for as high as fifty dollars at auction. If you are not picky and just want cooling, the cheap fans are a real bargain. By the way, they also fit the end of the Drake DL 1000 dummy load. 73, John, W4AWM -- On Behalf of Jan Erik Holm [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] TR7-A
I learned something today! All this time, I thought that the TR7-A came with all filters, NB, Fans etc. Guess I was incorrect! 73, Jay/AF2C At 02:25 AM 10/2/04 -0500, you wrote: Jim Shorney [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- On Thu, 30 Sep 2004 16:43:43 -0400, Mike Williams wrote: Well I just saw a TR7A and PS7 sell for $1641.00 on e-bay! The rig was used for 3 hours, repacked and put away according to the post. Stock, no extra filters or NB, operators manual and Drake log book. How about that? How about this: A friend of mine just bought a TR4C, MS4, RV4, AC4 from an estate at our local radio club auction. New in box condition, with original boxes and packing material in mint shape. Not even any dust on the tubes. Word has it that it was a spare. Price? Around $300. I guess ya gotta shop around. -- Jim Shorney --.--Put complaints in this box jshorney (at) inebraska.com nu0c (at) amsat.org Ham Radio NU0C Lincoln, NE, USA EN10ps http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney/ -- On Behalf of Jim Shorney [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] PARTING OUT OLD RADIOS
AF2C [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Now here is something really sad. There are many talented individuals out there who service Drake equipment for love, fun and profit. These same individuals, in some cases will part with new parts out of their stock for less money than buying the parts from a cannibalized rig. Let's face it...When opportunity knocks, there will always be someone there to make a buck. Nothing wrong with that...It's reality. Personally, if it doesn't cost me anything...The next guy can have it for nothing. If it does cost me...They can have it for what I paid for it. Then again, I'm not in business. 73, Jay/AF2C At 08:01 AM 8/21/04 -0700, you wrote: doc [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: .Unfortunately a lot of these radios are parted out because the greedy seller thinks he can get more for it that way. If you don't believe that, take a look at all the TR-7s that are being parted out on that e site. There are several guys doing it. Personally, I have no problem about parting out a bonafide basket case but to tear apart a perfectly good operational unit to make a profit is a real sin. I just wonder how many SX-88s, SX-9s and earlier Hallicrafters sets have met the same fate. 73, John, W4AWM I have posted a similar lament in the past ... there is however one advantage ... our estates will be able to sell our nearly extinct remnant gear for really big bucks! Meanwhile W0WMZ Bill Zeller is resurrecting two declared-dead TR7's I rescued, one for me and the other for himself. -- Thanks! 73, doc kd4e West Central Florida 100% Linux. Suse 9.1 Drake, Hallicrafters, Heathkit, TenTec, Yaesu Radio Life: http://www.gospelcom.net/twr/ Linux-Incompatible hardware is defective! USA Pres. Election 2004: http://www.rnc.org/ -- On Behalf of doc [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ -- -- On Behalf of AF2C [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
RE: [drakelist] Tube vendor opinion/6AU6A change
There is nothing wrong with having a spare set of tubes in your shack...You never know when you may need a replacement. Always use tube brands with a good track record - Sylvannia, Amperex etc. Tubes are good investment. The seem to increase in value.:-)) When dealing with a project such as replacing the original tubes in a rig...I agree with Scott--DON'T. If the unit is working, don't fix it. If you suspect a problem...Substitute a new tube and see if the problem is cured. If not, remove the substitute and go back to the original. Complete retubing will, in most cases, lead to some unwanted labor...Like a realignment of the unit. Don't attempt the alignment unless you have the proper equipment. GL es 73, Jay/AF2C At 08:39 AM 8/17/04 -0500, you wrote: Freeberg, Scott (STP) [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- I wonder why you are replacing all the tubes in the R4C and T4XC. It will be fairly expensive and its likely you will be replacing a good performing tube with another good performing tube, not counting finals or driver of course. I speak from experience. Back in 1974 when I got back from the war, I was all excited about getting my station back on the air and so I replaced all the tubes in my Hammarlund HQ-180. I've been chuckling about that all these years :)) This is my opinion only. I suggest you consider replacing the finals and driver if they are weak. Leave the rest alone other than the hotrod upgrade you're considering. Good luck. The 4C line is incredible. 73, Scott WA9WFA -- On Behalf of Freeberg, Scott (STP) [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
RE: [drakelist] Tube vendor opinion/6AU6A change
GA Joe - Hi Fidelity aside (No offense to the 14.178 mHz group), the 6AK6 appears to be an industrial type equivalent to a PM95. It does have the same pin-out as the 6AU6 and similar ratings. It just might work. However, Drakes have their own audio quality and are designed around the concept communicating effectively...Not for the listening to the rounded wonderful tones of your favorite announcer or listening to your favorite classical piece. The change to the 6AK6 will not resolve the audio quality resulting from the design circuit. Tubes such as the 6BA6 and 6CB6 would be worth a try. The 6BA6 may give better signal-noise characteristics. In the receiver, this would promise better performance as would the 6CB6. All three tubes are in the same price range. If you want to blow-off some money, why not try all three? 73, Jay/AF2C At 02:03 PM 8/17/04 -0400, you wrote: ** There is an article on wb4hfn.com regarding high fidelity AM. In it K1JJ make the case for the swap of the 6AU6 for the 6AK6 for more modulation and greater power output. Joe At 10:07 AM 8/17/2004, WIN DOOLEY wrote: WIN DOOLEY [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- I have bought tubes a few time from Electron Tube Enterprises. One time Dick sent the wrong tubes, but it was easy to get that straightened out. His prices are good. ** What is the perceived advantage to replacing the 6au6 with a 6ak6? Win Dooley W5JAG
Re: Fw: [drakelist] Interesting? Not Really! Antenna wax???? I want some
Extreme care should be used in the application of the various antenna waxes and greases in today's market. Although these products apply easily, the is at least one, if not adverse, annoying after effect. The Velocity Factor of the antenna increases which causes the rf to enter and leave the antenna more efficiently...However retuning of the system is usually a given due to the change in the signal propagation. The antenna will have to be made longer due to the increase in velocity factor. Best of luck es 73, Jay/AF2C At 11:15 PM 8/8/04 -0400, you wrote: PWells [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Lee Can you ship me a case of antenna wax to Canada? How can I apply it when its 40 below in the winter? VE2FAR Peter -- On Behalf of PWells [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: Fw: [drakelist] Interesting? Not Really! Antenna wax???? I want some
Lee is absolutely correct! One must take into account the Inverse Square Law. 73, Jay/AF2C® At 09:49 AM 8/9/04 -0500, you wrote: Actually, shorter, Jay. Lee, w0vt - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: PWells Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, August 09, 2004 8:26 AM Subject: Re: Fw: [drakelist] Interesting? Not Really! Antenna wax I want some Extreme care should be used in the application of the various antenna waxes and greases in today's market. Although these products apply easily, the is at least one, if not adverse, annoying after effect. The Velocity Factor of the antenna increases which causes the rf to enter and leave the antenna more efficiently...However retuning of the system is usually a given due to the change in the signal propagation. The antenna will have to be made longer due to the increase in velocity factor. Best of luck es 73, Jay/AF2C At 11:15 PM 8/8/04 -0400, you wrote: PWells [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Lee Can you ship me a case of antenna wax to Canada? How can I apply it when its 40 below in the winter? VE2FAR Peter -- On Behalf of PWells [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
RE: [drakelist] T4XC and D104
I must be missing part of thread. However, Drake (All Drakes) have which is clear, taylored audio. Audio which cuts through the QRM/QRN and which rarely required a repeat on the part of the operator. Most rigs today utilize (with the push of a button or switch) speech processing. Unfortunately, many who use processing DO NOT have the processor adjusted properly. I believe that WA2MOE is referring to those who use much too much processing...Creating a signal which can be heard but more often unintelligible. They generate pure filth. There are also individual who try to emulate A.M. with their rigs by using audio equipment between their very expensive microphones and the rig or changing the pass of the SSB signal through the rig's filters. Of course their signals become very broad, everyone sounds the same and the clarity of their signals through QRM/QRN is unintelligible. If you want to ruin the hobby for others...This is the way to do it. With Bandwidth hungry audio. A D1Ø4 (unamplified), Shure 444 or similar type microphone will do the job with any piece of Drake Equipment...Even the TR7. However, they will never pass the 14.178 mHz standards. The name of the game is communicate...Have a clean clear signal. 73, Jay/AF2C At 06:42 PM 8/5/04 -0700, you wrote: Stu Greene [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- At 05:10 PM 8/5/2004, Jack Wilson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi, I was surprised when I read so many opinions that agree with mine. Turn that blankity blank processor off. It sounds horrible. Just sit back and let that mellow Drake sound make everyone that hears you wonder what you know that Heil doesn't. I've been using and listening to Drake's broadcast quality signals for years and I have to agree but with one exception. Dxing requires intelligent operating, good antennas and an amplified signal which can grab the attention of the DX station. And having listened to those rotten distorted signals in quite a few rare countries, they certainly got my attention. I'd work them simply to get them out of the pileup. -- On Behalf of Stu Greene [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] TR7 and SB200
Hi John - The TR7 can handle the SB220/221 switching with no external relay/soft-key needed. I have been using this combination for years with no problem. Many of the newer rigs have rather flimsy relays and require a modification to the amplifier or installation of a soft-key to handle the current required to switch the SB220/221...NOT the TR7. 73, Jay/AF2C At 10:40 AM 4/9/04 -0400, you wrote: Is anyone using this combination? I wonder if it's advisable to use an external relay to control the amp, or whether the TR7 switching can handle it as-is? Sage advice of the Drakelist greatly appreciated!!! John --- Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.622 / Virus Database: 400 - Release Date: 3/13/04
Re: TR-7
It has been my experience that the components normally protect the fuses. Another Murphy's Law. Let's hope the PS 7 did not lose a Pass Transistor or Emitter resistor or both. If so, it is usually the one that most difficult to access...Another Murphy's Law. GL es 73, Jay/AF2C At 12:37 PM 2/16/04 -0600, you wrote: Evan you are right it is the power supply! unfortunately I don't have a large enough supply to test it to see if it is damaged! I hooked up a 1 amp supply and it light the s-meter amp very dimly which is normal for that lack amps but I can't tell if the radio is ok as of yet but at least it didn't blow the fuse again which the other power supply did. The fuse is next to the display board on the right! - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, February 16, 2004 12:12 PM Subject: Re: TR-7 PS Fuses can't always act fast enough to prevent damage to solid state devices.
