Re: [drakelist] T-4XC microphone
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- I've had good luck with the Turner SuperSidekick on AM but that was probably 15 years ago. I don't even know where that microphone is now. -- 73 Jason N1SU http://n1su.com/ -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] R-4B switch
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- On Wed, 18 Jan 2006, Garey Barrell wrote: With the scarcity of power switches for vintage gear, I always leave mine switched on and control power with an inexpensive computer power strip. Agreed - plus I have an inrush limiting box in series to avoid thumpin' the R-4* on power-up. I found some power strips at IKEA that have only 3 outlets (instead of the typical 6 plugs) which are nice and small. It's the only thing i've found of use at IKEA but don't tell my wife that. hi -- 73 Jason N1SU http://n1su.com/ -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] OT: Difference in Vibroplex bugs
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- hi, I sent this to my CW mailing list but there's a much larger audience here so i'm sending it here as well... Just wondering if anyone could help me figure out the difference in some of the various Vibroplex bugs. I've found about 4 different variations: Lightning bug Original bug Blue Racer bug And then for the Lightning bug i've noticed some have a square looking damper for the arm, others just have a post for the arm to rest against. If I were going to find one of these to buy and USE are there any concerns using the really old bugs vs. using the new bugs? I've got a deluxe original made in 1986 that is quite nice but I thought i'd have a little fun with some of the really old ones... but I don't know if the old ones are more trouble than they are worth. Thanks for any advice and recommendations. Jason -- 73 Jason N1SU http://n1su.com/ -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
RE: [drakelist] OT: Difference in Vibroplex bugs
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- On Thu, 19 Jan 2006, Affeldt Fred wrote: One difference in bugs that should be noted: a blue racer is about 2/3 the size of a standard bug, and it tends to be a bit faster at its slowest speed than a standard bug, hence the name. Vibroplex sells a product called a bug tamer which is essentially an extension to the arm, permitting the weight to be mounted farther out on the arm, slowing the speed. Slow speed on a blue racer is around 22 WPM, I think. Al's comments were right on - it's really about adjustment, not age. Thanks - sounds like they'd all be a nice fit then. My biggest concern was that the models with the triangular pivot mechanism (or the non-jeweled mechanism) would be prone to problems, etc. My original deluxe seems to be stuck at around 35wpm with the huge weight at the top of the arm. I saw where I can get other weights for it but i'll see what I can find for an old bug first. Thanks! -- 73 Jason N1SU http://n1su.com/ -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] L4-L4B-L7
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- On Thu, 12 Jan 2006, Karl Henrik Laache wrote: I'm not sure, but I think there is a difference between the chimneys for the 3-400 and 3-500 tubes. The 500s are slightly higher than the 400s, and the chimneys for the 500s don't have the tapering at the top, where the chimneys for the 500s are cylindrical. 3-400Z chimneys are a half inch shorter than 3-500Z chimneys. I have a pair of 3-400Z chimneys for sale, btw. Anyone interested, please email me - I can send photos when I get home after work. Eimac 3-400Z and 3-500Z chimneys have the tapered top to provide airflow over the anode seal and heat dissipator. 3rd party chimneys have a relatively small taper and don't do such a good job to cool the anode seal. Coleman lantern glass is cylindrical (has no tapered top) and is useless to protect the anode seal. Glass chimneys sold by Ameritron for 3-500Z tubes will not work with 3-400Z tubes in the Drake L-4 - they're too tall. You can get a rough idea of the form factor of the SK-416 inside my L4 by viewing these links: http://n1su.com/tubes/3-400Z-idle.jpg http://n1su.com/tubes/3-400Z-bias.JPG As discussed at length on the Amps mailing list, the chimney system used in the Drake L-4/L-4B does a poor job of protecting tube life - the only way to improve it without major modifications is to replace the stock fan with one that provides increased air flow - but the bottom line is it still doesn't provide a safe environment for exceeding the original design: 1000W input for CW and 2000W input for SSB. -- 73 Jason N1SU http://n1su.com/ -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Drakes wanted
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- On Wed, 11 Jan 2006 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The tubes should preferably be shipped in a vertical configuration. Be prepared to tap the tubes on their side to straighten the anode. Every 3-400Z I've bought and had shipped via brown trucks wound up getting bent. When you go to straighten them out again you'll realize how much abuse those packages take during their shipment. Hint: use the post office priority mail instead. -- 73 Jason N1SU http://n1su.com/ -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] AC3 vs AC4 ?
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- On Wed, 4 Jan 2006, Ron Wagner wrote: One big difference is that the AC3 has a set of resistors in the bias line. Those resistors are jumper shorted out normally with a small screw. Lifting the jumper short allows you to easily measure the idle current (actually voltage across known resistance). Much easier then trying to look at the fat needle against fat marking. You can measure the current on the resistor under the chassis too, and should to make sure the finals are balanced. But to set the current easily the AC3 was a gem. IMHO. You touched on something that I noticed when I was trying to align the bias current on my AC-3 (and haven't tried yet with AC-4)... I wound up leaving the screw connected and measuring the voltage off of the connection to the filter C (will have to review the schematic to tell you which one). Can this same trick be used on the AC-4 or is this an AC-3 only operation? I had to pull the bottom cover off of the AC-3 to do this - I couldn't make heads or tails of the TP-1 reading with the jumper screw removed. Thanks! -- 73 Jason N1SU http://n1su.com/ -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
RE: [drakelist] cleaning copper
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- On Tue, 3 Jan 2006, EricJ wrote: EricJ [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- 3M also makes some anti-tarnish strips. These are paper impregnated with a chemical that are meant to be stuck in the drawer with jewelry or whatever you are protecting. I'm going to tape one inside one of the receivers and see if I can tell any difference after 6 months or so. If it does something useful, I'll tape one in all the copper chassis rigs. Those strips may not work so well unless you seal the rig in an air-tight bag. A friend of mine makes jewelry out of silver and she puts those strips in little ziploc bags for the reasons we're talking about here. But if you don't keep the bag closed the strips don't help :-( hope this helps.. -- 73 Jason N1SU http://n1su.com/ -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] transceive frequency high on T-4 (and T-4XB)
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- hi, Just wondering if there is a way to adjust the frequency offset between the receiver VFO and the transmitted frequency when transceiving (T-4XB in RCVR position). I noticed that my T-4XB transmits nearly 2KC higher than the dial frequency i'm listening to and my T-4 is rather high as well. Is there a way to change this so that when I listen to the transmitted signal with the receiver (ON position, not muted during xmit) the pitch is closer to 500hz instead of 1500hz? Thanks! -- 73 Jason N1SU http://n1su.com/ -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] T-4 Reciter question - neutralization in general
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- hi, I got my early xmas presents yesterday, an R-4 and T-4 reciter (I think the T-4 serial is 106 or something low like that). The 6JB6 tubes were pretty soft - around 70 watts when gain cranked fully CW on 40 meters. The long story made short is I pulled the old 6JB6 tubes out and replaced them with what appear to be new sylvania. I don't think they're matched because the design of the plate is slightly different. They're both 6JB6 Sylvania but look a little different inside. I followed the procedure in the manual to neutralize them at 28.8mc with a nice bird dummy load. I got them neutralized fairly quickly with max output at the bottom of the dip on 10 meters. I don't remember exactly what the final power out was, but I think it was around 90 watts. Now the meat and potatoes of the question - on 40 meters the bottom of the dip is not max output - the bottom of the dip is about 5 to 10 watts less than max output. Did I make a mistake? I never run 10 meters so optimized operation on 10 meters isn't doing me any good. The 10 watts that I'm losing by running at the bottom of the dip on 40 meters doesn't bother me either - I just wonder if I missed a step or if this is typical behavior? Thanks! -- 73 Jason N1SU http://n1su.com/ -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] R-4 R-4B S meter question
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- R-4 question... I followed the S meter / AGC recalibration procedure to the letter for both my R-4 and R-4B. The thing I noticed that is different is that the R-4 has very little S meter movement for weak signals where the R-4B will show movement for weak ones - but strong signals that are S9 will read S9 on both units - broadcast stations that are +20dB show as +20 on both. It's the weak ones that show up as S2 or S3 on the R-4B that don't move the needle at all on the R-4. Weird. Thanks -- 73 Jason N1SU http://n1su.com/ -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] reduced bias on T-4XB
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- On Wed, 30 Nov 2005, Garey Barrell wrote: I ran three 4 Lines on autostart RTTY. They ran 24/7, and often made transmissions in excess of 30 minutes, AT FULL POWER. In this service, the finals lasted a little over two years, typically, with end of life defined as 100W output on 20M. This piqued my curiosity again - Let's say you're running your T-4XB at full power for 30 minutes at a time at 300mA and the plate is perfectly dipped. All is good. But if the plate isn't dipped at 300mA and would be at 240mA if dipped properly there would be 60mA of current wasted as heat running at 300mA. But it's still 300mA, whether resonant and dipped at 300mA or splattering at 300mA - the thing i'm wondering is if the tubes are suffering more at 300mA undipped or if the life expectancy the same as 300mA dipped perfectly, being paced at a rate of current (heat) travelling through the metal. And I suppose the other question is what is a plate dip anyway - can I think of it as if the tank circuit is sucking the power out of the tube or is it best to think of the tank circuit as a valve that passes the power when at resonance, and the current increases as the RF power output is backed up and can't get out? Sorry for the rudimentary questions but I can't find this online anywhere and don't have an old ARRL handbook that explains it. thanks -- 73 Jason N1SU http://n1su.com/ -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Soft start solution for 110v operation
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- On Wed, 14 Dec 2005, Jim Shorney wrote: All this is partially moot until he's accepting orders but i'd like to prepare now - i'm open to other soft start inrush limiter ideas as well. You can use NTC (negative temperature coefficient) inrush limiters such as what is used in virtually every PC power supply these days - they usually look like a big black ceramic capacitor. The ones in PC power supplies are sized just about right for tube amatuer gear actually; I My only concern with thermisters is they increase HV transformer primary winding ESR and slop the HV regulation. At 50W load for a typical R-4 the voltage drop by the thermister probably isn't much, but 400W load for the AC-4 would probably reach the maximum permissible 10% voltage drop range adding to frequency drift during key down. 100VAC is too low methinks ;-) I experimented with one of them for feeding my AC-4/T-4XB and the panel lights dimmed enough to make me nervous with 80W PEP CW output. liberated one from a dead PC supply and installed it in my AC4, and there was a noticable reduction in the turn-on thump. How much dimming effect on the panel lights do you notice with the part you used? I may have one that isn't suited for that much current draw. Hopefully Harbach will be accepting orders soon - a few of those SS-100 jobs will make my day! -- 73 Jason N1SU http://n1su.com/ -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] 6HS6 replacement/equivalent
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- hi, I find myself with only 2 good 6HS6 spares - just wondering if there are replacements or equivalents for this tube or should I look for 6HS6 only. This is for my R-4B. Thanks! -- 73 Jason N1SU http://n1su.com/ -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] L4B being revivied
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- On Mon, 5 Dec 2005, Mike Williams wrote: I am seeking a set of 3-500Z's and chimneys for a L4B I am in the process of renovating; they need not be factory fresh by any means; just have enough transconductance left to pump a few hundred watts! If you have any sitting around, let me know how much you want for them! Try to find some chimneys with the tapered tops to push air across the anode seal and plate heat dissipator. If you use glass cylinders that are not tapered at the top (Coleman lantern glass) you might as well not use any at all. This depends on your operating style, however. If you rarely run the tubes beyond dull gray with a tint of red you can get by without a proper chimney. If you run the tubes red to almost orange (pretty easy to do with 3-400Z) you will want chimneys with the tapered rim. The glass envelope can take more heat than the anode seal where the pin comes through the glass. As for the tubes, my recommendation would be to buy from someone who has used tubes in good working condition (sometimes Tom's Tubes has some nice ones that are used). I've blown a lot of money on crap sold at the auction sites - I have a shelf of dead 3-400Z and 3-500Z tubes that were sold as is - $300 worth of junk that would have bought a NEW matched pair of 3-500ZG. Late model 3-500Z Eimac tubes are prone to leaks and usually fail immediate on turn-on if they haven't been used for 10+ years. Last but not least, if you see about 2500V in SSB position and 160mA or more idle plate current you might want to consider good chimneys because the tubes will get awfully hot. My L4 will deliver 650W with 65W drive in the CW position with 3-400Z and it will run forever on any band - do this in SSB mode for another 2dB (1100W) without good chimneys and you'll melt the solder in the tube pins and ruin your tank coil or bandswitch on WARC (17m operation for example). Sorry if i'm sounding preachy. Hope this helps. -- 73 Jason N1SU http://n1su.com/ -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] TR-4, TR-4C, TR-4Cw
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- hi all, I've just about convinced the XYL to give me the goahead to buy a nice TR-4C or TR-4Cw if I can find one. But I have a couple questions about their operation before I start looking for the checkbook... For any TR-3 or TR-4any model, what is the bandwidth (passband) for CW operation on these units? I typically run my R-4B in the .4 mode for more narrow bandwidth and rejection of signals from stations 1 or 2 KC away. Am I correct in thinking that only the TR-4Cw has a narrow CW filter (500Hz for TR-4Cw and TR-4Cw RIT)? I'm trying to figure out if I should look for another R-4B/T-4XB pair or if the TR-4Cw (or another model) will give me a narrow CW bandpass filter. thanks! -- 73 Jason N1SU http://n1su.com/ -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] AC4 Plug
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- On Mon, 5 Dec 2005, G3SJJ wrote: I am currently renovating a 4B Line and would like to reduce the length of the power cable from the AC4 psu and also replace the short speaker cable. The female phono is corroded. How do I remove the cover from the plug? I can see a pin that appears to go through the plug but I am not sure if it is possible to tap this through. Yep, as Garey says, push the pin out and the rounded head will pop out. Pull the pin with needlenose pliers but also notice that the pin is threaded so don't pull straight out! Look for the threads after you get about 1/16 out. -- 73 Jason N1SU http://n1su.us/ -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] CW(for those who still/may use it)
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- On Mon, 13 Dec 2004, Thom R. Lacosta wrote: For those that use CW, or think they might, I've made The Art Skill of Radio-Telegraphy available via the web. chortle - I didn't know there were any other modes than CW - hi 73 Jason N1SU -- On Behalf of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
RE: [drakelist] L4-PS R12 burned - .825 ohm 2W resistor on pin 6 of cable harness
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- On Mon, 6 Dec 2004, Gene McCalmont wrote: From your email, it appears that one of your 3-500z tubes has bit the dust. It would be difficult to say what caused the problem, but these tubes, while robust to a fault, are not indestructible and do have a definable life cycle. It is entirely normal for the tube plates to have a dull reddish glow while the amp is keyed, however, from your description, I would say you are correct that one tube was under full load while the other was not. While color descriptions are mostly subjective, an orangey glow means the remaining tube was pulling a lot of current when observed. Depending on how long this condition existed, it too is probably exhausted. Many thanks again - I checked inside the L4 cabinet and also have checked through the power supply cabinet and do not find any other problems (no burned components, etc.) so it appears I got off lucky by this single resistor being the only thing needing replacement. I did notice that it appears this resistor has been replaced once before by the apperance of the other wires soldered to the lug strip terminals. No telling how long it had been since it had been replaced though. I am going to take a trip to the local electronics store in a few days (wx supposed to be bad up here in Beantown tomorrow) and look for a replacement. I think i'll buy a few extras and tape them to the inside of the cover plate! Will keep you updated after I replace the part. vy 73 Jason N1SU -- On Behalf of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] L4-PS R12 burned - .825 ohm 2W resistor on pin 6 of cable harness
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- On Mon, 6 Dec 2004, Garey Barrell wrote: The 0.82 ohm resistor is actually a wirewound flameproof resistor. The wirewound is identified by the double width first color band. The value is also not particularly critical, since in this application it is really nothing more than a HV fuse that will explode on overload, clearing the circuit and protecting the power supply. NTE offers flameproof resistors in their replacement line, but anything under 1 ohm is difficult to find. A 1 ohm value is fine in the L-4B. The metal or ceramic oxide resistors are a second choice, at best. I don't know what they do under extreme overload. Good to hear that NTE makes these resistors. I hope to get to the local parts store on Wednesday to buy a few replacements. The resistor that blew was blue in color and each end was fluted out, no wide color bands as the value of the resistor was stamped on the side of it. But I will look for the wirewound variety first and then carbon. I think the one that was in there probably was the slower type as it didn't pop and quit working - I heard a pop and then noticed some light coming out from underneath the L4 PS through the ventilation holes, all while I was transmitting. The resistor currently has a value of 400K ohms - hi Thanks for the help - will keep you updated. vy 73 Jason N1SU -- On Behalf of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] L4-PS R12 burned - .825 ohm 2W resistor on pin 6 of cable harness
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- On Mon, 6 Dec 2004, Garey Barrell wrote: That sounds like a description of a carbon film or perhaps a ceramic composition resistor. Sounds like someone may have been here before! :-) Also why you got the light show. I have not been successful at finding this resistor online - but perhaps i'm looking in the wrong places. Does anyone know where I can find some of these for sale? Long distance is cheap when using a cellphone - i'll call anywhere... my guess is i'm going to drive to the local parts store and not find them there so might as well start looking now. 73 jason N1SU -- On Behalf of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] T-4XB Troubles
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- On Tue, 30 Nov 2004 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: while I'm at it. Does anyone have a good Internet source for them? Also, does anyone have a good source for high value, high voltage electrolytics such as the 125 mfd. 400 volt contained in this supply? Once again, thanks for all the great information. I am happy I found this list! http://www.harbachelectronics.com/reference/harpg4cart.htm RK-AC4 - complete kit for replacing the guts of the AC-4 supply. 73 Jason N1SU -- On Behalf of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
[drakelist] L4 relay
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- hi, Just wondering where I could find a compatible replacement for the keying relay in the L4. I'd like to have a spare in case the one in there now starts to suffer. 73 Jason N1SU -- On Behalf of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] L4 relay
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- On Fri, 19 Nov 2004 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: A number of years ago I talked with Drake and they indicated that each relay is individually calibrated/altered to ensure that the various contacts opened/closed in the right sequence to avoid problems. Never got any more rationale and can't venture an expert opinion on this one. Hmm, would be interesting to know what order and how much bend each contact has... rats. 73 Jason N1SU -- On Behalf of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
