[Elecraft] [Fwd: Ulrich L. Rohde]
Original Message Subject:Ulrich L. Rohde Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 20:13:15 -0600 From: David Kimbrel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Ulrich L. Rohde's (DJ2LR/W2) name rang a bell. Look in my folder of antenna transmatchs and found a copy of an article from December 1974 (page 48) written by him. The article was called "Some Ideas on Antenna Couplers". Basic idea was build a "L-Network" with a 4:1 autotransformer between the transmitter and the tuner to drop the output of the transmitter to less than 12.5 ohms. I was always interested in building that unit to see how it would work for QRP operations. Wondering if anyone remembers that article or how ever build a unit similar? Dave, WB9YWE Message: 19 Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 11:17:23 -0800 From: "William M. Spaulding, SR" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [Elecraft] Text on design Hi Doug, When I was a younger old man, *Ulrich Rhode* (Rhode and Schwartz Instruments) and a collaborator wrote "Communications Receivers: DPS, Software Radios, and >>Design, 3rd Edition". I would recommend this book most highly for an EE. It gets highly technical in spots. Good luck, Bill NA7Y ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Alignment of VCO - Problem
David, Do you read a proper frequency at TP3? Does the PLL Reference Oscillator Range test produce the correct frequencies? (see the manual page 60). If the answer to the above question is YES, then check the winding of T5. Be certain the turns are correct and the leads are inserted into the correct holes. Check the tinning and soldering. Check the soldering in the vicinity of T5 and Q18. What are the RF Voltages that you read at the gate and source of Q18? Check the DC Voltages (compare to chart in Appendix E) at U3. What are the RF Voltages at U3 pin s 3 and 6? 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > I don't know. Must be asleep at the switch. > Here's what's what so far this end. > The probe verifies -- it did read correctly in step 3 on page 46. > The leads are correct. > > I have replaced the suspect diode but the probe will not read anything > at TP1. > > I have constructed the RF Probe and connected it to my DMM. > It reads voltages at certain points, but sees nothing at TP1. > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] How long to build KSB2 and KPA100?
I got a package from Elecraft yesterday. Soon my K2 will be SSB capable and generating 100 watts. How long do each of these kits take to build? I'm guessing 5 hrs for the KSB2 and 25 for the KPA100. The mini-module AF1 took me 2 hours. My K2 took me about 50 hrs to build if that gives you an idea of my speed (or lack there of). - Keith N1AS - - K2 5411 - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Desoldering tool?
Sometime in the past, someone posted a link to someplace where a $30 solder sucker soldering iron was being sold. IIRC, it was a pencil iron with a good sucking device attached. Anyone have the link? Or, can you guys recommend a good yet inexpensive tool for doing rework? I'm not interested in spending any serious money on such a tool since I can always use the pro vacuum gear here at work. - Keith N1AS - - K2 5411 - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 assembly question
1. I made the first power up and everything went just like the manual. However, the preamp is marked on. The manual doesn't say which way it should be and I thought I'd check before I got too much farther. On mine the preamp was always on even when it did not exist yet. 2. I'm confused about soldering the RF probe. I can't seem to find a good way to position and solder the RG174 cable ends to the banana plugs. There's just a slight dimple at the end of the plugs and I can't figure a good mechanical way to connect them before soldering. I cheated here. I bought a crimp on BNC for RG/174 and terminated the coax. I already use a BNC to banana plug adaptor for my voltmeter for other reasons. This just made the probe compatible with my system. However, this does make for a solid connection. Richard Kent WD8AJG K2 5296 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT:switching transistors
Hi all, I know this is not directly related to Elecraft, but I think it is an acceptable OT topic per the admins, and I think I remember Wayne even talking about this subject long ago, so here goes. I have a radio (FT8100) that I want to use with a TNC-X PIC modem. However, the tnc will not put the FT8100 into transmit. The tnc uses a simple 2na switch with a 10K resistor in series with the PIC output and the base of the 2na. 1) If I disconnect the radio cable from the tnc and ground the PKS (ground to transmit) wire, the FT8100 goes into transmit. 2) If I connect the same cable to a new Icom IC-208H, the TNC-X works fine and keys the radio. John Hansen the designer of the TNC-X says that there are many hams using the FT8100 with the TNC-X and there are no currently known problems with using the TNC-X and FT-8100. I am thinking that the 2na might be a little weak or have too much on resistance. I will be checking the 2na with my analyzer. I think I remember Wayne, N6KR, saying how great the 2n7000 was over a bipolar transistor for use as a switch. Can anyone recommend a circuit change using a 2n7000 or perhaps some other simple mod to the tnc other than using a reed relay to let the FT8100 do its thing? I relize that I should probably go into the FT8100, but I am not looking forward to that. Thanks, Steve Pituch, W2MY Corpus Christi -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.14.3/531 - Release Date: 11/12/2006 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 assembly question
Richard, The preamp does not have to exist for the display to indicate that it is ON. The microprocessor controls the display indication. You should be able to tap the PRE/ATT button and switch from the attenuator to the preamp to OFF for both. Sounds like you solved your RF Probe problem just fine. Normally the shield would be connected to a piece of wire about 3 inches long - the coax center conductor solders to into the cup (dimple) of the red banana plug and the black banana plug is soldered to the wire connected to the coax braid. At least that is the way I do it. I also use a bit of heat shrink at the junction of the braid and the wire just to make things neat, but whichever way you get the connections made, it should work FB. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > 1. I made the first power up and everything went just like the manual. > However, the preamp is marked on. The manual doesn't say which way it > should be and I thought I'd check before I got too much farther. > > On mine the preamp was always on even when it did not exist yet. > > 2. I'm confused about soldering the RF probe. I can't seem to find a good > way to position and solder the RG174 cable ends to the banana plugs. > There's just a slight dimple at the end of the plugs and I can't figure a > good mechanical way to connect them before soldering. > > I cheated here. I bought a crimp on BNC for RG/174 and terminated > the coax. > I already use a BNC to banana plug adaptor for my voltmeter for other > reasons. This just made the probe compatible with my system. However, this > does make for a solid connection. > > Richard Kent WD8AJG K2 5296 > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft Junk (K2 Modifications)
Scott - Amateurs have been modifying and expereimenting with electronic components and assembled radios since DeForest and Armstrong. You obviously have not read the laundry list of modificaitons on MODS.DK Just view MANY of these comments and suggestions -- as anything you see on TV shows --- DIY, Pimp my Ride, Overhaulin, etc. Why put a 2007 fuel injected computer monitored crate motor in an old muscle car -- gee - maybe because it is more relaible and fuel efficent than the original 1960s block? Look at the "Back to the Future" trilogy by Robert Zemeckis --- "Doc" Brown is constantly adapting vehciles -- cars, locomotives. In fact, if you look at the automobile industry - as an analogy -- the after market customization is HUGE. As with all of these -- some are for convinence -- others are innovative -- or in Lyle's DSP board -- a great adaptation and anhancement -- not readily avaialble when K2 first introduced. That is the beaty of technology -- and adaptation. My area of "assistance" is with the soldering tools themselves -- making sure that the builder has a quality "operational" tool for building -- and you can go to BAMA and see the growing Weller doucmentaiton library for amatuers to DIY repair their own tools (save $$, and learn something). Greg w9gb -Original Message- I ordered my K2 before I joined this forum, and now that I did, I am thinking maybe I shouldn't have ordered it. It hasn't been delivered yet. Is everyone having trouble with them as it sounds on this froum? Why is it necessary for all the modifications that are being done to them? What's all this about completely removing RFC10 from the KPA100? Did Elecraft do a bad job of designing this thing? I just ordered the basic unit plus the noise blanker, and was planning on adding the kpa100, and the KSB2 ssb unit later. I had the understanding that these two options were plug in boards, but it sounds like a rebuild to add anything. I have always hesitated to take components out of a circuit board because there is a good chance that damage to the board might occur. Will a new kit that I just ordered four days ago need modifications, and if so, how will I know what modifications I will need to do? Would someone please tell me why I shouldn't put this thing up for sale on Ebay in the unopened box? Thanks Scott N5SM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Upgrade
Thanks for all of the replys. 73 Elliott WA6TLA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Desoldering tool?
It's the Solder Popper model 12-2157 from GC Tools. It runs in the $36.00 range depending upon retailer. I've used it on my K2 kit and found by wetting the tip with solder for good heat transfer the unit seems to work well enough. It maybe doesn't work quite as well as the Hakko 808 but for the casual builder it should be sufficient. I was even able to tin toroid leads with it with a little practice. The unit comes apart easily for cleaning and/or maintenance. Disclaimer: Your mileage may vary. 73 de Ed N0EHQ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Desoldering tool?
The Hakko 808 is a superb tool. If you plan to do a lot of building and especially modifying - it is a worthwhile investment. Saves a lot of wear and tear on the boards and greatly reduces your own stress when attempting to pry loose an IC. It is expensive, but consider your monetary investment in the kits you build and the time you spend building them. I have the Solder Popper as well. It works. But the Hakko is __considerably__ better. 73, Doug -- K0DXV [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: It's the Solder Popper model 12-2157 from GC Tools. It runs in the $36.00 range depending upon retailer. I've used it on my K2 kit and found by wetting the tip with solder for good heat transfer the unit seems to work well enough. It maybe doesn't work quite as well as the Hakko 808 but for the casual builder it should be sufficient. I was even able to tin toroid leads with it with a little practice. The unit comes apart easily for cleaning and/or maintenance. Disclaimer: Your mileage may vary. 73 de Ed N0EHQ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Desoldering tool?
Ah, yes, that was it. How I need to decide whether to spend $40 on a tool or just bring the stuff here to work ... Thanks! - Keith N1AS - -Original Message- It's the Solder Popper model 12-2157 from GC Tools. It runs in the $36.00 range depending upon retailer. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] OT:switching transistors
Steve, The first thing I would do is to connect the TNC-S PIC modem to the FT8100, command the TNC to activate transmit and then measure the voltage at the base and collector of the 2N. The 2N should be conducting, so there should be only a small voltage at the collector - the base should measure about 0.7 volts. Then with the FT8100 alone, measure the current in the circuit that you ground for transmit. The 2N should be able to handle up to 800 ma in the collector, but the Hfe parameter may be limiting it. The metal can 2Na has an Hfe of 35 or more which requires at least 1/35th of the collector current to be driven into the base for saturation (i.e. if the collector must stay saturated with a 35 ma collector current, you must drive 1 ma available into the base) - your TNC's 10 k resistor provides a current limiting function for the base current - reducing the 10k value should increase the base current and allow the collector to handle more current without coming out of saturation. It is possible that the 2N does not have adequate base current to sink whatever current your FT8100 requires to activate transmit - you could reduce that 10k resistor in the 2N base circuit to allow a greater current to flow in the collector. You could swap a 2N7000 for the 2N, but that may also require an adjustemnt of the current base resistor and may require rearrangement of the circuit currently driving your 2N - any problems with the 2N7000 operation are likely to be with the OFF state (it may be turned on all the time) - the real answer depends on the rest of the circuit in your TNC - in the ON condition, the 2N7000 will conduct easily, just put a voltage on its gate. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > Hi all, > I know this is not directly related to Elecraft, but I think it is an > acceptable OT topic per the admins, and I think I remember Wayne even > talking about this subject long ago, so here goes. > > I have a radio (FT8100) that I want to use with a TNC-X PIC > modem. However, > the tnc will not put the FT8100 into transmit. The tnc uses a simple > 2na switch with a 10K resistor in series with the PIC output and the > base of the 2na. > > 1) If I disconnect the radio cable from the tnc and ground the PKS (ground > to transmit) wire, the FT8100 goes into transmit. > > 2) If I connect the same cable to a new Icom IC-208H, the TNC-X works fine > and keys the radio. > > John Hansen the designer of the TNC-X says that there are many hams using > the FT8100 with the TNC-X and there are no currently known problems with > using the TNC-X and FT-8100. > > I am thinking that the 2na might be a little weak or have too much on > resistance. I will be checking the 2na with my analyzer. > > I think I remember Wayne, N6KR, saying how great the 2n7000 was over a > bipolar transistor for use as a switch. Can anyone recommend a circuit > change using a 2n7000 or perhaps some other simple mod to the tnc > other than > using a reed relay to let the FT8100 do its thing? I relize that I should > probably go into the FT8100, but I am not looking forward to that. > > > Thanks, > Steve Pituch, W2MY > Corpus Christi > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] (very late) Elecraft CW Net Report for November 13th, 2006
Hi Folks, I finally got power again a few minutes ago. The underground line had been lifted out of the ground and broken by a fir tree falling over in the wind. This also cut off the 911 comms, the forestry comm link, and the aviation beacon at the top of the mountain. The generator tried to kick in and feed all those radios but the fuel line had been broken. So the 911 folks cut their way up the mountain and fixed it yesterday. I only lost six trees as far as I could see. None of them are bigger than twenty inches DBH so just barely marketable. Sam and I stayed warm but it did get rather boring. I am caught up on all of my reading now ;) I made a few skeds with the Trojan T105s I've got for backup. I also got to listen to the local radio stations talking about our wind storm. About 80% of the electric cooperative's served area was out of power. We (the folks on our mountain) were almost the first to be effected but since there are so few of us up here we were put on the tail end of the repair list. But, I had been warned so I had food, water, fuel for the lights and camp stove, plenty of wood in the house, and a lot of reading material. Twenty meters was wide open today. Before my sked I was hearing a lot of DX and wondered if I would find a spot to work my friend. However twenty meters was not as good on Sunday. Only seven stations checked in with me. There was a lot of QRM so I must not have been getting out very well. I still had power from the mains at that point so I do not know what was going on. I did have to retune my antenna every few minutes due to the rain, snow, and wind. By the second net on forty meters I was running at 50 watts from my batteries. Only three check ins and there was quite a bit of QRM there too. It is interesting logging stations by candle light! Good thing the front panel is so easy to memorize because I did not have enough light to see everything in the area. The lists => On 14050 kHz at z: W6BK - Dave - CA - K2 - 4910 AH6RE - Curt - HI - KX1 - 464 AA7EQ - Bob - AR - K2 - 922 VE3XL - Ric - ON - Ten Tec KL7CW - Rick - AK - KX1 - 798QNI #60!!! K6DGW - Fred - CA - K2 - 4398 WL7BU ?-- very faint could not complete the exchange. On 7045 kHz at 0300z: KJ7BS - Mark - AZ - K2 - 539 W3MC - Mike - MD - K2 - ??QNI #5! Got you but then lost you again ;) AH6RE - Curt - HI - KX1 - 464 I have found a problem I'd been tracking for a while. N7NLU gave me a hint. The Anderson Power Pole connectors were under tension so were making intermittent contact with the back of my K2. Under the load of transmitting the power was folding which was causing me some difficulties. Since I had plenty of quiet time the last two days I worked my way through the problem. The power cable is so heavy it is causing the intermittent contact. I supported the cable with some cup hooks and all is well again. Simply taking the weight of the cable off the PP connector was enough to ensure solid contact. Next time I need to switch to emergency power I'll have more consistent contact with my K2. I used to run both nets from battery power each week until the deep cycle marine battery reached old age. I've now got two Trojan T-105s in series which seem to work better. I hope to get a few more to run in series-parallel to provide plenty of power during my frequent power outages. One day I'll get them charged from the sun (weak as it is in Oregon it will be sufficient). With that much power I hope to run an inverter to keep my computers up and running during the black outs. Until next week stay warm and dry, 73, Kevin. KD5ONS (Net Control 5th Class) P.S. More wind is on the way so I had better get a shower and a shave before that hits! KJR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Alignment of VCO - Problem
I read 12098.20 down to 12084.54 at TP3 in the PLL Reference Oscillator Range test. I checked the windings of T5 very carefully, as well as the resistances between pads - they appear correct. The soldering at T5 and Q18 looks good. The RF Voltages at Q18 are all zero :-( ... Dead? DC Voltages at U3: Pin 6: 4.02 Pin 7: 8.02 Pin 8: 0.00 RF Voltages at U3, Pin 3 & 6 are all zero :-( On Tue, Nov 14, 2006 at 07:24:04AM -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote: > David, > > Do you read a proper frequency at TP3? Does the PLL Reference Oscillator > Range test produce the correct frequencies? (see the manual page 60). > > If the answer to the above question is YES, then check the winding of T5. > Be certain the turns are correct and the leads are inserted into the correct > holes. Check the tinning and soldering. Check the soldering in the > vicinity of T5 and Q18. What are the RF Voltages that you read at the gate > and source of Q18? > > Check the DC Voltages (compare to chart in Appendix E) at U3. What are the > RF Voltages at U3 pin s 3 and 6? > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > > -Original Message- > > > > I don't know. Must be asleep at the switch. > > Here's what's what so far this end. > > The probe verifies -- it did read correctly in step 3 on page 46. > > The leads are correct. > > > > I have replaced the suspect diode but the probe will not read anything > > at TP1. > > > > I have constructed the RF Probe and connected it to my DMM. > > It reads voltages at certain points, but sees nothing at TP1. > > > > > -- David Dawson ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Alignment of VCO - Problem
David, The PLL Reference is apparently OK and your problem is in the VCO itself. The lack of RF voltage says the circuit is not oscillating - but we cannot declare Q18 dead just yet. OK, next step is to check the DC voltages at Q18 - compare with the DC Voltage chart in Appendix E. Double check T5 against the diagram in the manual page 55 (leads 1 and 3 should come from the top of the core and the green winding must be in the same direction as the red winding) - if one of the windings is reversed, the oscillator will not oscillate. Check the voltage at the drain of Q17 and compare with the DC voltage chart - measure the gate and source while you are at it, and just for a bit of additional information, check the DC voltages at Q16. Tell us what you find. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > I read 12098.20 down to 12084.54 at TP3 in the PLL Reference Oscillator > Range test. > > I checked the windings of T5 very carefully, as well as the resistances > between pads - they appear correct. > > The soldering at T5 and Q18 looks good. > > The RF Voltages at Q18 are all zero :-( ... Dead? > > DC Voltages at U3: > Pin 6: 4.02 > Pin 7: 8.02 > Pin 8: 0.00 > > RF Voltages at U3, Pin 3 & 6 are all zero :-( > > On Tue, Nov 14, 2006 at 07:24:04AM -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote: > > David, > > > > Do you read a proper frequency at TP3? Does the PLL Reference Oscillator > > Range test produce the correct frequencies? (see the manual page 60). > > > > If the answer to the above question is YES, then check the > winding of T5. > > Be certain the turns are correct and the leads are inserted > into the correct > > holes. Check the tinning and soldering. Check the soldering in the > > vicinity of T5 and Q18. What are the RF Voltages that you read > at the gate > > and source of Q18? > > > > Check the DC Voltages (compare to chart in Appendix E) at U3. > What are the > > RF Voltages at U3 pin s 3 and 6? > > > > 73, > > Don W3FPR > > > > > -Original Message- > > > > > > I don't know. Must be asleep at the switch. > > > Here's what's what so far this end. > > > The probe verifies -- it did read correctly in step 3 on page 46. > > > The leads are correct. > > > > > > I have replaced the suspect diode but the probe will not read anything > > > at TP1. > > > > > > I have constructed the RF Probe and connected it to my DMM. > > > It reads voltages at certain points, but sees nothing at TP1. > > > > > > > > > > -- > David Dawson > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.14.5/533 - Release Date: 11/13/2006 > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Alignment of VCO - Problem
Thanks, Here's the measurements. Note: the transistors are quite close to the board, so I had to figure out which adjacent pad to tap; I think I have measured correctly. The DC Voltages at Q18 are: Point MeasuredChart - - Gate: 0.00-1.0 Source: 3.192 to 3 Drain: 8.026.3 ! Q16: Point MeasuredChart - - Emitter:0 0.0 Base: 0 0.6 Collector: 7.982.2 !! T5 is correct according to the diagram on page 55; leads 1 and 3 come from the top of the core and leads 2 and 4 come from the bottom, and I think that being so, the green winding cannot be reversed. On Tue, Nov 14, 2006 at 03:56:31PM -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote: > David, > > The PLL Reference is apparently OK and your problem is in the VCO itself. > The lack of RF voltage says the circuit is not oscillating - but we cannot > declare Q18 dead just yet. > > OK, next step is to check the DC voltages at Q18 - compare with the DC > Voltage chart in Appendix E. > > Double check T5 against the diagram in the manual page 55 (leads 1 and 3 > should come from the top of the core and the green winding must be in the > same direction as the red winding) - if one of the windings is reversed, the > oscillator will not oscillate. > > Check the voltage at the drain of Q17 and compare with the DC voltage > chart - measure the gate and source while you are at it, and just for a bit > of additional information, check the DC voltages at Q16. > > Tell us what you find. > > 73, > Don W3FPR David Dawson ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Hakko 808 tip?
Hi, I've noticed that lots of folks on this list praise highly the Hakko 808 desoldering tool. My question is: which tip do you all use? I own a Hakko 808, and find it too clumsy with the tip that comes with it to be much use for Elecraft and other kit boards. For example, I believe it would be completely useless for doing the 80-30 mod to the KX1. I have tried the tool, and don't like it. I hardly ever use it anymore. I have come to much prefer 1/10" Chem-wick for any desoldering that I have had to do. It occurs to me that maybe with a longer or thinner tip the Hakko might live up to its reputation. But which one, and where does one acquire it? Thanks and 73, John, W2GW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Alignment of VCO - Problem
David, The voltage measurements at Q17 please! 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > Thanks, > Here's the measurements. > Note: the transistors are quite close to the board, so I had to figure > out which adjacent pad to tap; I think I have measured correctly. > > > The DC Voltages at Q18 are: > > Point MeasuredChart > - - > Gate: 0.00-1.0 > Source: 3.192 to 3 > Drain:8.026.3 > > ! > > Q16: > > Point MeasuredChart > - - > Emitter: 0 0.0 > Base: 0 0.6 > Collector:7.982.2 > > !! > > > > T5 is correct according to the diagram on page 55; leads 1 and 3 come > from the top of the core and leads 2 and 4 come from the bottom, and I > think that being so, the green winding cannot be reversed. > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 headphone audio for sound card PSK31?
I ran some tests this evening with my K2 and my computer sound card and HamScope software. 80 meters was not great, but it was open and there were a number of QSOs going on. The K2 was able to pick up signals and decode them quite well, and the narrow filters really help block QRM. (My RTTY filter bandpasses are all over the place, though; I don't think I ever finished setting them up after getting Spectrogram going. Have to revisit that!) However, the audio drive from the K2 is much less than from the DX-70TH that I use as my primary digital mode rig. Although the signals decoded well, the traces on the waterfall barely showed even at fairly high soundcard record volume settings. With the DX-70TH plugged into the sound card instead, the same signals were brilliant yellow and easily found by eye. What can I do to increase the audio output level of the K2 for sound card purposes? Cathy N5WVR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Hakko 808 tip?
John, There are finer tips for the Hakko 808. The A1003 tip is much smaller (about half the diameter) than the standard one supplied.I have rarely had to pull out the role of Chem-wick to get a component out - but it happens occasionally. http://www.tequipment.net/Hakko808.html#nozzles 73, Doug -- K0DXV John Reiser wrote: Hi, I've noticed that lots of folks on this list praise highly the Hakko 808 desoldering tool. My question is: which tip do you all use? I own a Hakko 808, and find it too clumsy with the tip that comes with it to be much use for Elecraft and other kit boards. For example, I believe it would be completely useless for doing the 80-30 mod to the KX1. I have tried the tool, and don't like it. I hardly ever use it anymore. I have come to much prefer 1/10" Chem-wick for any desoldering that I have had to do. It occurs to me that maybe with a longer or thinner tip the Hakko might live up to its reputation. But which one, and where does one acquire it? Thanks and 73, John, W2GW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Hakko 808 tip?
John, The Hakko A1394 extra long 1.0mm nozzle does a good job with the close clearances found in the KX1. You can purchase he tips at www.hmcelectronics.com and a variety of other places. This long slender is not for normal use, but its long reach is necessary for use in close quarters such as when doing the de-soldering for the KXB3080 option. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > I've noticed that lots of folks on this list praise highly the > Hakko 808 desoldering tool. My question is: which tip do you all use? > > I own a Hakko 808, and find it too clumsy with the tip that comes > with it to be much use for Elecraft and other kit boards. For > example, I believe it would be completely useless for doing the > 80-30 mod to the KX1. I have tried the tool, and don't like it. > I hardly ever use it anymore. I have come to much prefer 1/10" > Chem-wick for any desoldering that I have had to do. > > It occurs to me that maybe with a longer or thinner tip the Hakko > might live up to its reputation. But which one, and where does > one acquire it? > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Alignment of VCO - Problem
Don, OOPS! Here are the measurements on Q17: Point MeasuredChart - - Gate: 2.172.2 Source: - 0.0 Drain: 1.972to3 On Tue, Nov 14, 2006 at 09:09:43PM -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote: > David, > > The voltage measurements at Q17 please! > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > > -Original Message- > > Thanks, > > Here's the measurements. > > Note: the transistors are quite close to the board, so I had to figure > > out which adjacent pad to tap; I think I have measured correctly. > > > > > > The DC Voltages at Q18 are: > > > > Point MeasuredChart > > - - > > Gate: 0.00-1.0 > > Source: 3.192 to 3 > > Drain: 8.026.3 > > > > ! > > > > Q16: > > > > Point MeasuredChart > > - - > > Emitter:0 0.0 > > Base: 0 0.6 > > Collector: 7.982.2 > > > > !! > > > > > > > > T5 is correct according to the diagram on page 55; leads 1 and 3 come > > from the top of the core and leads 2 and 4 come from the bottom, and I > > think that being so, the green winding cannot be reversed. > > > > -- David Dawson The greatest dangers to liberty lurk in insidious encroachment by men of zeal, well-meaning but without understanding. -- Justice Louis D. Brandeis ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Hakko 808 tip?
I've found the 1394 to be useful, too. Do we have a photos area? I could put up a picture of the base I constructed which is just a small chassis with the stock Hakko holder screwed to it, a lighted AC switched socket so I don't have to actually unplug the thing, and small screws up through the chassis to act as posts to store the extra tips. It makes the 808 even more convenient. 73, doug Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2006 21:21:43 -0700 From: Doug Person <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> John, There are finer tips for the Hakko 808. The A1003 tip is much smaller (about half the diameter) than the standard one supplied.I have rarely had to pull out the role of Chem-wick to get a component out - but it happens occasionally. http://www.tequipment.net/Hakko808.html#nozzles 73, Doug -- K0DXV John Reiser wrote: > Hi, > > I've noticed that lots of folks on this list praise highly the Hakko 808 desoldering tool. My question is: which tip do you all use? > > I own a Hakko 808, and find it too clumsy with the tip that comes with it to be much use for Elecraft and other kit boards. For example, I believe it would be completely useless for doing the 80-30 mod to the KX1. I have tried the tool, and don't like it. I hardly ever use it anymore. I have come to much prefer 1/10" Chem-wick for any desoldering that I have had to do. > > It occurs to me that maybe with a longer or thinner tip the Hakko might live up to its reputation. But which one, and where does one acquire it? > > Thanks and 73, > > John, W2GW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Hakko 808 tip?
Don - I wasn't able to find the A1394 tip at your suggested link. I even used their Quick Search with no joy. I think I could use one of those tips, too. 73, Doug -- K0DXV Don Wilhelm wrote: John, Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 The Hakko A1394 extra long 1.0mm nozzle does a good job with the close clearances found in the KX1. You can purchase he tips at www.hmcelectronics.com and a variety of other places. This long slender is not for normal use, but its long reach is necessary for use in close quarters such as when doing the de-soldering for the KXB3080 option. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I've noticed that lots of folks on this list praise highly the Hakko 808 desoldering tool. My question is: which tip do you all use? I own a Hakko 808, and find it too clumsy with the tip that comes with it to be much use for Elecraft and other kit boards. For example, I believe it would be completely useless for doing the 80-30 mod to the KX1. I have tried the tool, and don't like it. I hardly ever use it anymore. I have come to much prefer 1/10" Chem-wick for any desoldering that I have had to do. It occurs to me that maybe with a longer or thinner tip the Hakko might live up to its reputation. But which one, and where does one acquire it? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: K2 Modifications
Hi Scott, I have built two K2s, #767 and #3725. The only problems I experienced were my own fault. They were very quickly solved on this reflector by very experienced folk like Don W3FPR, Tom N0SS and many others who contribute to this list. I'm the only one (so far) that turned TWO pages of the manual over at once, thus missing some very important steps. The K2 has evolved since #767 but most importantly both of my transceivers are right up there with latest serial numbers, in that I have updated via the Elecraft list. They both have the KI02 interface, 160m separate Rx antenna options, KAF2 audio filters and the N0SS amp keying circuit. My shack is presently the base for the ZM1A CW serious contest station. We have two suites of antennas for 80, 40, 20, 15 and 10 metres (quads and verticals) located 300' apart. Of a selection of FT-1000xxx (with all the latest filters), Icom 7xxx, etc. transceivers, only the IC-780 and K2 ( plus amps) demonstrate no interstation interference at the 500w level. >From the two most experienced CW contest ops in our group (ZL3CW and ZL1GO), the only complaint has been that "the K2 moves when you push the buttons". Since then, I have secured the bail to the bench. Scott, you can build your K2 with confidence knowing that you have support from this reflector no matter what problems you might encounter. You will have a transceiver that is right up there with the best. 73, Ken ZL1AIH (ZM1A team in CW contests) > > I ordered my K2 before I joined this forum, and now that I did, I am > thinking maybe I shouldn't have ordered it. It hasn't been delivered > yet. > Is everyone having trouble with them as it sounds on this froum? Why > is it necessary for all the modifications that are being done to them? > > What's all this about completely removing RFC10 from the KPA100? Did > Elecraft do a bad job of designing this thing? > > I just ordered the basic unit plus the noise blanker, and was > planning on adding the kpa100, and the KSB2 ssb unit later. I had > the understanding that these two options were plug in boards, but > it sounds like a rebuild to add anything. I have always hesitated to > take components out of a circuit board because there is a good chance > that damage to the board might occur. > > Will a new kit that I just ordered four days ago need modifications, > and if so, how will I know what modifications I will need to do? > > Would someone please tell me why I shouldn't put this thing up for > sale on Ebay in the unopened box? > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
