RE: [Elecraft] FW:
Scott, The microprocessor (Control Board U6) chip will not stand a lot more than 5 volts without damage. The application of 8 volts on the 5 volt rail could have damaged any of the digital chips on the control board - those are U6, U7 and U8. Many devices on the RF board receive the power from the 8R and 8T lines - and must have the RX or TX signal active from the microprocessor to apply voltage to 8R or 8T (if the uP is bad, some power to the RF board will not happen). Make a quick check - power on and check the voltage out of the regulators (5V and 8V), check power to U6 at pin 1 (should be 5 volts), then check the RX output (U6 pin 28) which under normal conditions should be 5 volts during receive (I expect you will find it at zero volts). If RX is not 5 volts in the above test, obtain a new microprocessor (U6) and while you are ordering replace U7 and U8 as well - they have been stressed and if they are not bad now, they could fail later. The other components on the Control board should have survived just fine because they are analog devices and have higher voltage ratings whereas the digital logic circuits can be damaged with voltages above 6 volts. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > I finished assembling K2 # 5846 a few days ago and have a problem > that I need some help on. > After finishing the initial alignment I could hear signals on several > of the bands and had transmitter output. During the final alignment > the display started burning too bright. I found a solder bridge on > the J7 connector that was shorting the outputs of the 8 volt and > 5 volt regulators together. This was causing both regulators to be > putting out 8 volts. I cleared this up and was proceedng with the > alignment when I notice that U6 on the control board felt warm and I > had lost voltage on most of the components on the RF board. > I turned the rig off for a couple of hours and when I tried to turn > it back on, it wouldn't power up. I checked F1 and it has 12.8 > volts on both pins. > Anyone have any ideas? > Scott N5SM > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.0/610 - Release Date: 12/30/2006 2:59 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K160RX alignment question
Hank, Read the K160RX errata sheet - it tells you not to do the CAL PLL on 160 meters. The display you received is quite normal when attempting CAL PLL on any band except 40 meters, so no harm done. The frequency that is briefly displayed the the frequency of the VCO output (read from TP1). It appears only briefly while the microprocessor is deciding whether the frequency is correct or not (it is incorrect for CAL PLL) and then the Info 232 message is properly displayed to indicate that you tried CAL PLL on something other than 40 meters. There is no need to do an additional CAL PLL, the data for 160 meters has already been stored in the EEPROM. If you choose to do CAL PLL agian, set the 4 MHz reference oscillator just before running CAL PLL. See the information on my website http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com article on K2 Dial Calibration for the complete procedure and alternatives. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > My construction of the K2 is progressing, SSB and noise limiter are > installed and I installed the 160 M module this afternoon. Just after > sunset the 160 meter band was full of activity. > I have a concern about the 160 meter alignment. > Manual page 9. step 2. Set VFO for 1800.10 kHz > Select CAL PLL, hold EDIT a second time, takes about 2 > minutes to see > END. > > I did the above procedure but did not get END. All that happened when > I held EDIT was the disappearance of the "annunciators" which were at A > B RIT and XIT. When I let go of the EDIT after about 2 1/2 minutes I > had a short indication on the LCD with: 07093.52 and right after that > the message: Info 232. > > Looking in the K2 manual "info 232" states CAL PLL on wrong band. > INFO 232 is most likely displayed when using CAL PLL without first > selecting 40 meters. > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.0/610 - Release Date: 12/30/2006 2:59 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Help in hooking up my straight Key
I am on my way to the District to see the model train display at Union Station before they take it down and when I get back I want to be ready for SKN this evening. I have my key ready to go i thought but can't figure how to configure the plug into the radio I would like to use the 706 to begin with. I figure I must use a stereo plug. I figure in using a 2 wire cable from my straight key into the stero plug that one of the contacts in the plug is not used?? Any way I tried a mono plug into the 706 and could not get it to work. Hope to have a message from somebody this afternoon when i get back. Had a fabulous vacation in Columbus for Christmas and flew home yesterday. Thanks in advance. Hope to work some of you on SKN. Paul Gates, KD3JF ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[QRP-L] help in hooking up my straight Key
I am on my way to the District to see the model train display at Union Station before they take it down and when I get back I want to be ready for SKN this evening. I have my key ready to go i thought but can't figure how to configure the plug into the radio I would like to use the 706 to begin with. I figure I must use a stereo plug. I figure in using a 2 wire cable from my straight key into the stero plug that one of the contacts in the plug is not used?? Any way I tried a mono plug into the 706 and could not get it to work. Hope to have a message from somebody this afternoon when i get back. Had a fabulous vacation in Columbus for Christmas and flew home yesterday. Thanks in advance. Hope to work some of you on SKN. Paul Gates, KD3JF __ QRP-L mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/qrp-l Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [Elecraft] Help in hooking up my straight Key
Paul, I can answer with certainty on the K1 and KX1: Yes, you must use a stereo plug - but you need only to connect to the shell and the tip. Enter the menu in the K1 and KX1 and set INP Hnd. That is all there is to it. I do not have access to the '706 manual, but you can check your manual to see how to connect the key. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Paul Gates, KD3JF > Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2006 9:31 AM > To: Icom Icom > Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [Elecraft] Help in hooking up my straight Key > > > I am on my way to the District to see the model train > display at Union Station before they take it down and when I get > back I want to be ready for SKN this evening. I have my key ready > to go i thought but can't figure how to configure the plug into > the radio I would like to use the > 706 to begin with. > > I figure I must use a stereo plug. I figure in using a 2 wire > cable from my straight key into the stero plug that one of the > contacts in the plug is not used?? Any way I tried a mono plug > into the 706 and could not get it to work. > > Hope to have a message from somebody this afternoon when i get > back. Had a fabulous vacation in Columbus for Christmas and > flew home yesterday. Thanks in advance. > > Hope to work some of you on SKN. > > Paul Gates, KD3JF > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.0/610 - Release Date: > 12/30/2006 2:59 PM > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.0/610 - Release Date: 12/30/2006 2:59 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Help in hooking up my straight Key
Paul: Ditto on the IC-706. Use a stereo plug - shell and tip. Put it in CW mode first(important) and enter Q4 menu (press and hold "disp"). Select CW Paddle OFF. You can use other "Q" menus to change pitch and break-in delay. 73's, John AA0VE Don Wilhelm wrote: Paul, I can answer with certainty on the K1 and KX1: Yes, you must use a stereo plug - but you need only to connect to the shell and the tip. Enter the menu in the K1 and KX1 and set INP Hnd. That is all there is to it. I do not have access to the '706 manual, but you can check your manual to see how to connect the key. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Paul Gates, KD3JF Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2006 9:31 AM To: Icom Icom Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Elecraft] Help in hooking up my straight Key I am on my way to the District to see the model train display at Union Station before they take it down and when I get back I want to be ready for SKN this evening. I have my key ready to go i thought but can't figure how to configure the plug into the radio I would like to use the 706 to begin with. I figure I must use a stereo plug. I figure in using a 2 wire cable from my straight key into the stero plug that one of the contacts in the plug is not used?? Any way I tried a mono plug into the 706 and could not get it to work. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 control board question
I finished the control board and it looks good. I didn't like how the revised cap and resister went on the back side but otherwise it looks good. I did have a question. The IC #1 that I received was slightly different than specified. It is the only one left so I am assuming it is okay. I wanted confirmation before I solder, however. It is called for NE 602 and the IC I have is SA 612 C101708 Fn 344B. Is this okay to solder? Thanks for all the help. Bill Koucky ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] close in IMD
According to the Sherwood table, K2 # 1140 demonstrated 70 DB at 2 khz, while serial # 3160 posted 80 DB at 2khz, phase noise limited, actually better. Exactly what changes to the radio led to this improvement? I would like to be sure I have done the apprpriate mods to serial # 700 !!! 72 and HNY, Fred - kt5x ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 control board question
Bill, You can confirm for yourself by looking at the parts list, but yes go ahead and solder the SA612 in. NE602, SA602, NE612 and SA612 are all interchangable and may be considered as the same part. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > I finished the control board and it looks good. I didn't like how the > revised cap and resister went on the back side but otherwise it > looks good. > I did have a question. The IC #1 that I received was slightly different > than specified. It is the only one left so I am assuming it is okay. I > wanted confirmation before I solder, however. It is called for NE 602 and > the IC I have is SA 612 C101708 Fn 344B. Is this okay to solder? > > Thanks for all the help. > > Bill Koucky > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.0/610 - Release Date: 12/30/2006 2:59 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Straight Key issues on K2
After a couple of months of not turning on K2, it has gone goofy. Apparently goofiness caught from OP by K2. With HAND selected in INP menu, straight key properly wired, starts string of dits when contacts closed. Same key I"ve used for 4 years without a problem. Tried another, same thing. After turning on set, INFO 80 msg. appeared. Restart, msg. disappeared. Series of restarts normal. If I had to guess, bad solder joint. Unlike wine, solder joints do not get better with age. Question is, where to start? 73, Gil NN4CW K2 3104 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Alignment, etc. What don't I get?
When I built K2 # 54xx last May 2006, I had high hope of eventually sending the completed K2 back into "Elecraft's Service Dept" and having it aligned and checked over by the experts. I would have been willing to spend that extra $$$. But - Elecraft Inc. said NO. At which point I came to believe that Elecraft Inc. has no service dept. Sounds like a good opportunity, for us 5800+ K2's alone - to offer this professional factory service. I've often felt - should the 4 or 5 experts on the email list - ever drop out or go away, we'd be left fully on our own! Possibly the K2 email list archives - would helm us through these troubled waters. Or other experts would surface. Luckily, my K2 build came thru with flying colors, and with the help of Spectrogram - even the filter setup, went seemingly well. But the notion, that "many K2's are out there in poor alignment and in poor performance shape" - is a little scarey. Do you remember the Heathkit Color TV Kits? It was a handfull to build, and it too even had its own test and alignment circuits inside. I don't recall what Heathkit's position was on Service Department? (Benton Harbor, MI) Happy New Year, Fred, FL __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Standoffs between heat sink and board
Anyone have any insight on this? -Ben K1NT I am slowly progressing on my KPA100. I am at the part where the board and heat sink are temporarily mounted together to provide the proper spacing for soldering the final transistors. The five standoffs that go between the board and the heat sink are all 3/16", however, the heat sink has a machined depression around the hole for the standoff that is directly behind the center of the rear panel when assembled. Unless I missed it, the manual states I should not use a washer or lock washer on any of the standoffs between the heat sink and the board either on this initial assembly, or on the final assembly. This being the case, there is a gap between the board and this particular standoff. When I add the additional standoffs for mounting the shield later on, this will either prevent me from snugging the standoff down on this particular stud, or force me to warp the board at this point in order to get it snug. Surely this cannot be the case. While I haven't measured it, the depth of the machined depression in the heat sink would lead me to believe that a washer or lock washer is intended to be used either between the heat sink and the standoff, or between the standoff and the board during final assembly. Anyone have any insight on this? -Ben K1NT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] SKN...
Plan to be on SKN tonight. Mostly 80 meters on or around 3546.5. If it's quiet here will try also later in evening on 1815 khz on top band. Will be running the Drake 2NT + 2B or the TCS-12. 73 to all, Sandy W5TVW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] QSK-5 Compatability with K2/100
I use my K2/100 to drive an Ameritron ALS-600 with the QSK-5. It's a great combo. Doug W6JD -- Original message -- From: WB6TMY <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Has anyone on the reflector used their K2/100 with the QSK-5 to > control an older power amplifier? If yes, please advise me on how it > worked out. > > Thanks, > > TR, WB6TMY > > http://www.radions.net/spamfltr.htm > __ > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: Straight Key issues on K2
Gil, OK, your K2 is rebelling from non-use - feed it some electrons once in a while On the INFO 080 situation - that is a problem caused by one of the devices (options) attached to the AUXBUS signal. Turn the manual to the troubleshooting section for problem 080 and follow through from there. On your key problem - try again. Also go into the menu and verify that you still have INP Hand. If you are not successful with that, try connecting the tip and ring together at the plug to the key - that should permit the AUTO-Detect feature to be active unless you have turned it off in the menu. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- From: Gil Stacy [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2006 11:25 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: William Koucky; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Straight Key issues on K2 After a couple of months of not turning on K2, it has gone goofy. Apparently goofiness caught from OP by K2. With HAND selected in INP menu, straight key properly wired, starts string of dits when contacts closed. Same key I"ve used for 4 years without a problem. Tried another, same thing. After turning on set, INFO 80 msg. appeared. Restart, msg. disappeared. Series of restarts normal. If I had to guess, bad solder joint. Unlike wine, solder joints do not get better with age. Question is, where to start? 73, Gil NN4CW K2 3104 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 Standoffs between heat sink and board
Ben, Every KPA100 heatsink is milled in that area to remove part of the raised platform that the PA transistors mount on and still allow for the standoff. Just how much below the lower adjacent surface (large lower area) has your heatsink been milled? In most cases, it is only a tiny bit (1/64 inch or less), and adding a washer would make the top of the standoff too high. The KPA00 board will tolerate some flex with no harm, particularly in the area you are speaking of. If your heatsink has been milled much deeper than that, you should contact Scott or Brian at Elecraft and discuss the situation. Perhaps a digital photo would help. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > I am slowly progressing on my KPA100. I am at the > part where the board and heat sink are temporarily > mounted together to provide the proper spacing for > soldering the final transistors. > > The five standoffs that go between the board and the > heat sink are all 3/16", however, the heat sink has a > machined depression around the hole for the standoff > that is directly behind the center of the rear panel > when assembled. Unless I missed it, the manual states > I should not use a washer or lock washer on any of the > standoffs between the heat sink and the board either > on this initial assembly, or on the final assembly. > This being the case, there is a gap between the board > and this particular standoff. When I add the > additional standoffs for mounting the shield later on, > this will either prevent me from snugging the standoff > down on this particular stud, or force me to warp the > board at this point in order to get it snug. Surely > this cannot be the case. While I haven't measured it, > the depth of the machined depression in the heat sink > would lead me to believe that a washer or lock washer > is intended to be used either between the heat sink > and the standoff, or between the standoff and the > board during final assembly. Anyone have any insight > on this? > > -Ben K1NT > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.1/611 - Release Date: 12/31/2006 12:47 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RFC 15 miniature?
Hi Folks, I am building #5930 and I'm at the point of installing C91, C88 and RFC 15 on the bottom of the rf board at U4. The manual talks about a miniature 100 uH choke, much smaller than the other 100 uH chokes and with a tan body. I have 4 green bodied and one tan bodied 100 uH choke, but the tan bodied one is pretty close to the same size as the green ones, if any thing a little bigger. I have no miniature chokes at all I'm sure I can solder it to the indicated location, but is this something I should be concerned about? Bernie W1AZ asked this same question on the list back in Sept. but I can't see where anyone answered him. Thanks in advance, Bob K6GGO ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] RFC 15 miniature?
Bob, Put the smaller tan bodied choke in for RFC15. Elecraft switched to the larger choke after a goodly number of them were destroyed during assembly - those ultra tiny ones do not permit much flexing of the lead next to the body. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > Hi Folks, > I am building #5930 and I'm at the point of installing > C91, C88 and RFC 15 on the bottom of the rf board at U4. The > manual talks > about a miniature 100 uH choke, much smaller than the other 100 > uH chokes and > with a tan body. I have 4 green bodied and one tan bodied 100 uH > choke, but the tan bodied one is pretty close to the > same size as the green ones, if any thing a little bigger. I have > no miniature chokes at all I'm sure I can > solder it to the indicated location, but is this something I should be > concerned about? Bernie W1AZ asked this same question on the list > back in Sept. > but I can't see where anyone answered him. > > Thanks in advance, > > Bob K6GGO > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.1/611 - Release Date: 12/31/2006 12:47 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] close in IMD
Fred, The main changes that would have created that difference is the newer speced crystals and the winding of T7. If you have added a new set of crystals, that is good, but check to see if T7 is the newer ration of 20 turns to 5 turns - it matches the filter output impedance better than the older turns ratio. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > According to the Sherwood table, K2 # 1140 demonstrated 70 DB at > 2 khz, while serial # 3160 posted 80 DB at 2khz, phase noise > limited, actually better. > > Exactly what changes to the radio led to this improvement? I > would like to be sure I have done the apprpriate mods to serial # 700 !!! > > 72 and HNY, > > Fred - kt5x > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.1/611 - Release Date: 12/31/2006 12:47 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Help in hooking up my straight Key
Paul, You will need an adapter for the 706. It uses a 1/4" stereo plug instead of the 1/8" stereo plug used by the KX1. The 706 also needs the plug wired to close the circuit tip to shell, and you will need to turn off the internal keyer in the "Q4 CW PADDLE" Quick menu (press and hold "DISPLAY" for two seconds to activate the Quick menu). 73 and Happy New Year! Mike, N0SO -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2006 8:50 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Help in hooking up my straight Key Paul, I can answer with certainty on the K1 and KX1: Yes, you must use a stereo plug - but you need only to connect to the shell and the tip. Enter the menu in the K1 and KX1 and set INP Hnd. That is all there is to it. I do not have access to the '706 manual, but you can check your manual to see how to connect the key. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Paul Gates, > KD3JF > Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2006 9:31 AM > To: Icom Icom > Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [Elecraft] Help in hooking up my straight Key > > > I am on my way to the District to see the model train > display at Union Station before they take it down and when I get back > I want to be ready for SKN this evening. I have my key ready to go i > thought but can't figure how to configure the plug into the radio > I would like to use the 706 to begin > with. > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] I changed K2 R98 to 1K - not good?
My K2/100 shows a lot of variation in TX output, esp. on 40 meters. I'll set it for 50 watts and the power will toggle up and down by 10's of watts. Time to change R98. Checking old posts, I see that values of 1.1 KOhm seem to be good, I have a 1K resistor so I put that in. Put the rig back together and ... Max output on 40 meters is about 3 watts. It is lower below and above 40 and on 20 or above there is no output. Hmmm, did I do bad? My next step will be to parallel another R with R98 so I can drop the resistance and see if I regain some power. Sheesh, and this is on the eve of SKN too. What a bad time for my rig to be down. - Keith N1AS - - K2 5411.ssb.100 - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] ECN 31 Dec 20m
Well, that was about as weak as it gets, nearly everyone. I was running a KW, driven by the K2/100, to a 3el tribander pointed north. In fact, turning the antenna has little effect on N. OR and S. WA stations, I think the take-off angle is too low. Thanks to the K2 rx, Kevin was running 319, unless the QSB got him. No one was above S2, although with the antenna N, that might account for some of it. There was a C-class x-ray flare about 0900Z, don't know if that had something to do with it. I still think the earlier time is worth a shot for awhile. After all, it can't have gotten any worse :-) Happy New Year to all, and 73 Fred K6DGW Auburn CA CM98lw ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] I changed K2 R98 to 1K - not good?
Kieth, The proper procedure is to temporarily use a pot in place of R98 to determine the maximum value your K2 can tolerate without loss of power (especially on 10 meters). Then measure the pot and replace R98 with the next lower standard value. The internal gain of each K2 is a bit different, so the proper value must be determined emperically for each K2. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > My K2/100 shows a lot of variation in TX output, esp. on 40 > meters. I'll set it for 50 watts and the power will toggle up > and down by 10's of watts. Time to change R98. > > Checking old posts, I see that values of 1.1 KOhm seem to be > good, I have a 1K resistor so I put that in. Put the rig back > together and ... > > Max output on 40 meters is about 3 watts. It is lower below and > above 40 and on 20 or above there is no output. Hmmm, did I do bad? > > My next step will be to parallel another R with R98 so I can drop > the resistance and see if I regain some power. > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.1/611 - Release Date: 12/31/2006 12:47 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] I changed K2 R98 to 1K - not good?
I'll bet you find out that the 1 K you put in was actually some other value .. or .. something happened you did not plan (cold solder joint?). If the value of 1K is too high for your particular K2/100 the output will not reach full ratings on some bands but it will still be a lot higher than 0 or 1 ! Yep, use a pot or just patch in various fixed resistors like I did. I also tested the value of the fixed resistor I was inserting just to make sure it was what I thought it was. Don K7FJ - Original Message - From: "Darwin, Keith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2006 3:25 PM Subject: [Elecraft] I changed K2 R98 to 1K - not good? My K2/100 shows a lot of variation in TX output, esp. on 40 meters. I'll set it for 50 watts and the power will toggle up and down by 10's of watts. Time to change R98. Checking old posts, I see that values of 1.1 KOhm seem to be good, I have a 1K resistor so I put that in. Put the rig back together and ... Max output on 40 meters is about 3 watts. It is lower below and above 40 and on 20 or above there is no output. Hmmm, did I do bad? My next step will be to parallel another R with R98 so I can drop the resistance and see if I regain some power. Sheesh, and this is on the eve of SKN too. What a bad time for my rig to be down. - Keith N1AS - - K2 5411.ssb.100 - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment, etc. What don't I get?
Hi Group, Happy New Year! Although I cannot consider myself as an Elecraft expert, I have already built 10 K2 plus numerious modules. The merit of K2 is that it does not require laboratory type of equipment to calibrate and align. I think this has been repeatedly mentioned by other Elecraft experts here. All you need is to closely follow the manual in calibration. With the advancement of technology, good quality frequency counter can be obtained at a very cheap price say US$100. You would need it for frequency calibration. Other than the frequency counter, you will need a Power meter to peak the filters. Any power meters will do a fine job because you need a relative reading only. I have recently bought an advanced LP100 meter from Larry Philip. Upon recalibraton of my K2, I do not see any major difference from the past. For alignment of BFO, the spectrogram is a very handy tool and easy to operate. Again, you do not need expensive equipment. Even you do not use the spectrogram and just follow the suggested settings in the manual, the result is not bad at all. To conclude, I do NOT feel there is a need for factory alignment service. In fact, the design criteria is to avoid calibration using laboratory type equipment. 73 Johnny Siu VR2XMC From: "Fred (FL)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment, etc. What don't I get? Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2006 08:55:27 -0800 (PST) When I built K2 # 54xx last May 2006, I had high hope of eventually sending the completed K2 back into "Elecraft's Service Dept" and having it aligned and checked over by the experts. I would have been willing to spend that extra $$$. But - Elecraft Inc. said NO. At which point I came to believe that Elecraft Inc. has no service dept. Sounds like a good opportunity, for us 5800+ K2's alone - to offer this professional factory service. I've often felt - should the 4 or 5 experts on the email list - ever drop out or go away, we'd be left fully on our own! Possibly the K2 email list archives - would helm us through these troubled waters. Or other experts would surface. Luckily, my K2 build came thru with flying colors, and with the help of Spectrogram - even the filter setup, went seemingly well. But the notion, that "many K2's are out there in poor alignment and in poor performance shape" - is a little scarey. Do you remember the Heathkit Color TV Kits? It was a handfull to build, and it too even had its own test and alignment circuits inside. I don't recall what Heathkit's position was on Service Department? (Benton Harbor, MI) Happy New Year, Fred, FL _ 与联机的朋友进行交流，请使用 Live Messenger; http://get.live.com/messenger/overview ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for December 31st, 2006 & January 1st, 2007
Good Evening, The two nets this evening were like a breath of fresh air. I actually got to hear folks. Yes, Fred, even you! On twenty there was a pileup to break through but looking at my email I missed at least one person in the melee. Parts of the continent faded out as usual but this time it was far more gradual than it has been the last few weeks. It was nice to hear all the folks coming back plus three new operators. Straight Key Night is going strong so I had to move up a bit from the published frequency on forty meters. I've got my key plugged in so once I am through with this message, and a few chores, I can see how I do. It should be fun if it is not too much of a struggle to make myself understood ;) Dinner and chores were a bit out of synch tonight because of the time change but I was able to eat most of my dinner before it got too late. The baked chicken was quite good. I think I may be learning how to cook again! Now to be able to vary the meals as much as Pat was able to do. Her Thai recipes were fantastic and her green chili stew was as good as they made in Las Cruces. I do miss good New Mexican food. Sopapillas, green chilies, those nice, thick tortillas, etc. Maybe I can get down there again one day and see a few folks and eat all their food :) The lists => On 14050 kHz at 2258z: K5BGB - Rod - TX - K2 - 1126QNI #10!! N0BK - Bruce - MN - K2 - 3646 QNI #90!!! W6SU - John - CA - K2 - 228 K4JPN - Steve - GA - K2 - 1422 N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866 QNI #35!! NK6A - Don - CA - KX1 - 1098 K6DGW - Fred - CA - K2 - 4398 QNI #45!! A direct connect to Auburn, CA thanks to a Gwatt of power! K9DMV - Joe - TX - K2 - 5628 W0CZ - Ken - ND - K2 - 1031 On 7045.5 kHz at 0200z: K6PJV - Dale - CA - K2 - 5345 W0CZ - Ken - ND - K2 - 1031 AE6GC - Jack - CA - KX1 - 1403 K6DF - Dennis - CA - non Elecraft rig KT5E - Jay - CO - K2 - 5037 QNI #35!! VE6ITA - John - AB - K2 5384 Thank you for joining me this evening for our time altered nets. I think the experiment worked. Next week I'll run the nets at the same time as this week and then see how it goes as the sun comes back further north. I have noticed some added brightness but I have a mountain blocking the view to the south so any difference at this time of year is quite apparent. The sun comes up in the east only to set behind the mountain early in the day. Then it pops out shortly before sun down so I get to see it again. Makes for a very dark few weeks around the solstice! The best is when the sun does not set twice a day ;) Progress was made on clearing some of the scattered trees and fixing some of the holes. I can get the house warmer than I could just a week ago. Sunday evenings are nice because I cook something in the oven and dry my clothes. These two extra heat sources make quite a difference. During dinner I opened the bedrooms to dump some of the heat into them since it was getting too warm. However, that is much better than being cold. Come spring I rip out the damage roof rafters and build a new one from scratch. I may add either a clerestory of a simple skylight. The clerestory would be better since it would allow northern light into the house. Southern light can get too concentrated during the summer months. We shall see how my plans go. Until next week, 73, Kevin. KD5ONS (Net Control Operator 5th Class) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KPA100 Standoffs between heat sink and board
Ben, I just finished building my KPA100 and it is quite happy in the K2 at this time. I agree with your observation of the milled out hole on the heat sink. I tried placing a lock washer between the heat sink and standoff (against Elecraft instructions) which resulted in not having the screws on the KPA100 rear panel match the hole resulting in having to remove the heat sink from the KPA100 PCB and removing the lock washer. Afterwards the screw hole aligned perfectly. I do believe the board is warped a little because of the machine out portion of the heat sink but it seems necessary to match all the mounting screw holes. Anyone else have any ideas. By the way it seems surprising to me the amount of "missing" parts that customers are ordering for replacement. I just built the K2 with the SSB module, Noise blanker module, DSB module and KPA100 module. That calls for a lot of parts and I got to say that Christene always gets all the parts. In fact it seems that there is lots of extra hardware and wire in with the kits. Many times I thought a part was messing only to find it after careful looking. I also have to agree with Elecraft on the alignment. If you take your time and read the procedures carefully you can do a real good alignment. The audio spectrum program that is offered really makes it easy to calibrate the BFO frequencies. I have been working with electronics for more then 40 years and I teach others to do the same. I cannot state enough to take your time and follow the procedures and your K2 is spot on frequency Great Job Elecraft!! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
