[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement
Good Evening, Another blur of a week. It did not help I was doing volunteer work nor did it help that I was not feeling at all well. Monday night after I got home from work I started running a fever and I was pretty hazy by the time I drove myself to bed at 0 dark thirty. Tuesday morning I think I got on the air but could not swear on it in a court of law. Luckily it has passed. By Friday morning I was starting to feel a little better and today I felt a lot better. That was a good thing because I had a five hour class to teach which always takes its toll. I got home after the ECOM class, ate, and found my bed. So, currently, I am doing laundry and dishes because tomorrow will be once again quite packed. Another class with the ARES group but I am not the instructor. I'll simply be setting up the gear and running it for a D-Star test. I'll leave the session early so I can get home in time for the nets though. Hopefully the solar stream expected to hit tomorrow will not cause too much havoc on the bands. I realize it may get tough to copy so I will call from East to West to help work the weaker stations first. I've put the three notes on the end of the list. I will also remind you to go to http://ecn.visionseer.com/ for a few details on ECN. If there is ever time in my life I will work on the site to update the lists and give some more facts about the nets. Did anyone come up with the cloning machine I requested this week? Write to me off the list please :) On another note: Tom and I will not be on the nets next week. Both of us are going to a town in Missouri to attend a hamfest. OzarkCon to be exact. I will get to meet a few folks, listen to some music, and have a good time. The only thing which would make it better would be to take Pat so she could show off her singing and clogging ability. If that were possible no would realize I was in attendance :) However, that is not possible; I just wish... But, the salient point is there will be no NCS for the nets. If there is anyone who would like to volunteer for the task please email me. It is not too tough; simply get on the air and run through the preamble and call for stations. The scripts are on the web site I have listed above. Keep notes on who you worked and send them to me. I'll write the report. If you want to do that too it's fine by me. My only request is to keep it friendly and informal. Tom and I will be back for the next weekend. This is my first trip since I lost Pat so I am looking forward to it (with a little trepidation). My nephew has agreed to come up to keep the house warm and Sam fed. Hopefully he will have a good time up here. His next task is to help me work on the house this summer. It will be good for both of us! Tomorrow: 1) Call by geographic area (East, All) 2) Hail signs (first letter or two of the suffix of your call) 3) NCS help (as well as QSP/QNP help) Please join us: Sunday 2300z (Sunday 4 PM PDT) 14050 kHz Monday 0200z (Sunday 7 PM PDT) 7045 kHz Kevin. KD5ONS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Cantankerous KAT-100-1
A little background info-- my KAT100-1 is grounded, it is connected to a Carolina Windom 80. It will tune all bands from 80 through 10 meters and give a 1:1 SWR on all bands except for the phone band on 40 meters. If I go from the CW portion (7040 Khz for example) straight to the the phone segment, the K2/100 will click, the KAT ANTENNA LED and POWER RANGE LED will flash brightly momentarily and the KAT becomes unresponsive. The SWR is high when this happens, and VFO #2 reverts to VFO#1. If, however, I sneak up the frequency in approx 20 Khz increments and tune the KAT at each increment, I can tune the KAT all the way to 7300Khz with a 1:1 SWR. I have run all the L and C menu parameters, and all the relays click as they should. The parameters were checked starting on 10 meters and working down the bands. There were no components that showed a too large or small change in relation to the others tested. These were my readings on 40 meters: L01.0 L11.0 L21.1 L31.2 L41.7 L54.5 L69.9 L79.9 L89.9 C0 1.0 C1 1.0 C2 1.0 C3 1.0 C4 1.1 C5 1.3 C6 2.0 C7 5.0 C8 8.7 I am beginning to think that stray RF is created by the off-center fed antenna, and the KAT MCU becomes RF saturated and cannot tolerate it on the higher portion of 40 meters. If I tune the KAT into a 50 ohm dummy load, it seeks and attains a 1:1 SWR on all bands (including 40 meters). Any comments appreciated. Roy Morris W4WFB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors
We use crimp only at work. Loads of BNC connectors on 45 mb DS3 cables, they get abused and never seem to fail. We have a very expensive amphenol tool that crimps the shield and center pins. We also crimp the 48 volt power wires, 200 amp and so on, very special tools for that, and the wire has to be correct, they pulled out all the old welding cable and put in stuff that is really hard to work with, hard and inflexible, but I suppose it holds the crimps well. I like solder, and its usually much cheaper than a good tool and all the dies, but crimping done right is very good. When some think of crimping, they think of spade lugs with a cheap hand tool crimp...you know, the ones the wires pull right out of... Brett N2DTS > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John GM4SLV > Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 1:58 PM > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors > > On Sat, 21 Apr 2007 11:06:08 -0400 > Jack Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > Also, MIL-C-39012 has many qualified N crimp connectors. > > > http://www.dscc.dla.mil/Downloads/MilSpec/Docs/MIL-PRF-39012/p > rf39012ss1.pdf > > for your reading pleasure. > > > > > > Further these crimp RF connectors appear to be qualified for use on > > the International Space Station from what I can tell (lots of > > reference links to follow). > > > > As I said in the initial post, you must use the correct tool and > > connector and if you do it properly the result will be a > high quality > > connection. > > > > And, it isn't a friction fit -- it's actually closer to > cold welding. > > > > > > Jack > > > > > > I've learned a lot today about crimping connectors! I might have to > re-think my opinion, but then that's what make this a good group to be > involved with. I have a tool and some dies at work, perhaps I > will make > up some crimped leads and some soldered leads and compare them! > > I still find it odd that the KPA100 has SO239s though... > > Cheers, > > John > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: microphone
Gil Gibbs wrote: OMs; I've been giving my old Alinco mike a jaundiced look lately, the remaining part of a HTX-212 rig I got from Rad Shacque many years ago. The prime question: does anyone have a short answer for me, if this little electret mike, with up/dwn buttons, keyboard, PTT switch, will work with my K2? I'm going to take a dare and see if that outfit will even provide a schematic for the aged little thing, find out what might or might not work, but I can also use some input from others who might be a tad more experienced with "hybrid" parts that seem to look viable. Gil, this isn't "off topic", you are perfectly ok in my book. If you can find the wiring diagram for the 212 and match it up with the K2, I think it will work. Good luck Ron, wb1hga ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Off topic microphone
OMs; I've been giving my old Alinco mike a jaundiced look lately, the remaining part of a HTX-212 rig I got from Rad Shacque many years ago. The prime question: does anyone have a short answer for me, if this little electret mike, with up/dwn buttons, keyboard, PTT switch, will work with my K2? I'm going to take a dare and see if that outfit will even provide a schematic for the aged little thing, find out what might or might not work, but I can also use some input from others who might be a tad more experienced with "hybrid" parts that seem to look viable. Thanks for any input, and I'm relearning a lot that went foggy on me with all my projects! 73's Gil WA5YKK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] BNC's instead of SO-239's
*That* is where I saw them! Thanks for tickling my memory. I'm building an HFPacker amp, which has a BNC in and SO-239 out. I hate SO-239s (probably because I started making my own cables for VHF/UHF, and my Elmer railed against them), and was going to switch this to an N. But all my portable antennas use BNCs, which meant I would have an adapter on this, permanently. I'm sure that the reason for using a different connector type is to (help) avoid confusion between input and output. I'm just not sure I care. As far as crimping ... I saved this post http://www.dimebank.com/misc/soldered_connections.html a long time back. For power and low-voltage signal connections, I usually use a crimping tool and then solder, mostly because I don't have a ratcheting tool. I have the West Mountain tool for PowerPoles, but I usually solder there, too, to resist corrosion at the exposed end (or so I tell myself). I am more inclined to solder RF connections, mostly because that's how I learned and that's what I've got in stock. There are some connections (female BNC to RG-174 comes to mind) that seem to only exist in crimp, so I have a couple of crimping tools, too... Belt & suspenders, I guess. 73 de chris K6DBG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors
On Sat, 21 Apr 2007 11:21:37 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote: >For instance, I do not crimp my Anderson PowerPole connections - >because I do not have the correct tool - I have tried the >low-priced model, and I have experienced several connector >failures and have gone back to soldering them. After using the non-ratcheted "crimper" I felt the same way. I finally went to the ratchet crimper marketed by West Mountain and have never had a failure. Miscrimps, yes, because with my limited close-up eyesight it's not that easy to make sure that the pin is in the slot properly (I work by feel). As we've all said - the proper tool. May I add - the proper procedure as well. -- 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors
On Sat, 21 Apr 2007 15:55:19 +0100, David Cutter wrote: >Having seen a lot of bad soldering and assembly of PL259s done >by my amateur friends, I have a mind to buy a crimper set for the >club so the members can make quality connections to the plugs of >their choice. Excellent Idea! Our ARES/RACES sponsor (Washington County Emergency Services) bought us a MFJ antenna analyzer and the availability of it has worked out very well. -- 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors
On Sat, 21 Apr 2007 09:31:36 -0500, Brian wrote: >Just my 2 cents. I don't own any type N connectors personally, >but I do work on military aircraft and have never seen a UHF >connector used. Crimping is not allowed; soldering is the only >option for everything. That's odd. When I worked on the fire control systems of USN carrier-based aircraft at the Douglas Aircraft factory in the mid-1950s only MIL-spec crimped connections were allowed. -- 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors
On Sat, 21 Apr 2007 10:13:40 +0100, John GM4SLV wrote: >No messing about with >soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a >decent fist of soldering the braid (or usually just relying on pressure >and the mstical force of gravity to hold the braid in contact with the >shell of the plug). I've been spoiled over the years with making crimped BNC connectors (both pin and shield) but I no longer have access to that. About a year ago there appeared a "New Product" listing in QST for a right proper PL-259 crimper requiring only soldering the center conductor. I haven't bought one (yet) but it did look interesting. -- 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] crimp uhf connectors
On Sat, 21 Apr 2007 10:57:51 -0500, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >I have a (bad?) habit of re-using uhf connectors on different length >of coax when needed. How would you un-crimp a uhf connector? >Just though I would ask! My experience with "uncrimping" a connector of any type is to cut it off the cable and throw it in the wastebasket. -- 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] ProSet-K2 Boom Headset
On Saturday, April 21, 2007 at 6:01 PM, Mark NK8Q wrote: It is a very comfortable heaset and I like the ability to switch the phase which I do several times during a contest which seems to reduce the amount of fatigue compared to using my hi-fi stereo headphones. I did change R14 from 1k to 10k on the SSB board to get a bit more gain but otherwise used the headset and K2 as is. I would recommend it to K2 users as well as users of other radios from a performance and comfort standpoint. -- May I second your opinion Mark about the Heil ProSet-Plus headset. Could be that my K2/100 has above average Tx gain since I did not have to change R14. 73, Geoff GM4ESD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] ProSet-K2 Boom Headset
Mark J. Schreiner wrote: I don't know the difference for the K2 version, but I use the ProSet Plus with adapter for Kenwood microphone as my K2 is wired for Kenwood type configuration. I've used it for ARRL FD contest as the SSB station at our FD site during the last two years and we've done quite well. I've used it at home for ARRL November Sweepstakes two years ago and did well but last year I had a terrible cold so didn't do so well. I used it last year for the PA QSO Party and got 1st place for Lehigh County overall (I think the 2x multiplier helped me beat out the 100W & 1KW stations that didn't get the 2x multiplier, HI HI). All examples above are for QRP only. I generally use CW otherwise but when I have had ragchews it works well. It is a very comfortable heaset and I like the ability to switch the phase which I do several times during a contest which seems to reduce the amount of fatigue compared to using my hi-fi stereo headphones. I did change R14 from 1k to 10k on the SSB board to get a bit more gain but otherwise used the headset and K2 as is. I would recommend it to K2 users as well as users of other radios from a performance and comfort standpoint. Mark, NK8Q Mike Geddes wrote: Wondering how many of you are using the ProSet-K2 boom headset sold on the Elecraft site? It is a nice microphone solution? Any of you have another preference for nice sounding microphone for your K2? Any opinions are welcome! 73, Mike N4JX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com I've got the K2 version of the Proset 2 sold by Elecraft and it works well. I think the difference between them is that the Elecraft version is actually the iC version you can get from Heil. At least mine has the little iC sticker on the boom pivot. 73, Kevin AC0H ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors
Don, et al: What a great thread ! I have only experience with crimping BNC and SMA connectors and, strangely enough, LMR-600. Yep, I borrowed the crimping tool for LMR-600 which is outrageously expensive from a cell telephone outfit here in town. The owner is a ham friend of mine and he gave me an N-connector to go on my long run on LMR-600. It has worked flawlessly. Don, I use the correct crimp tool (I got mine from West Mountain Radio) for Power-Poles and it works great. Sometimes I will both crimp and solder them. I've never crimped PL-259's or N connectors but, brother, would that have saved some time around here !! HI I'll check into this. 73, Jamie WB4YDL -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 10:22 AM To: Brian Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors Brian, Then there must be a difference between original manufacture and repair for those connections. The prior information I have from NASA and for avionics applications is that crimping is the preferred method of fastening. The only reason I can think of to vary from that in the field is that the proper tools may not be universally available. As has been pointed out, a proper crimped connection requires the proper tool and connectors designed to be used with those tools. Vary either piece of the equation and you end up with an unreliable connection. You can take some shortcuts with soldering, but if you crimp, make certain all the elements are correct. For instance, I do not crimp my Anderson PowerPole connections - because I do not have the correct tool - I have tried the low-priced model, and I have experienced several connector failures and have gone back to soldering them. 73, Don W3FPR Brian wrote: > Hello all, > > Just my 2 cents. I don't own any type N connectors personally, but I do > work on military aircraft and have never seen a UHF connector used. > Crimping is not allowed; soldering is the only option for everything. > > 73 > Brian > N1WNC > > > > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jack Smith > Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 8:19 AM > To: Larry Phipps > Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors > > I bought my tool and die sets from RF Parts http://www.rfparts.com/. > > I have seen what seems to be the same tool at about half the price > searching around on the internet a while ago, but I can't be sure if it > is exactly the same. RF Connection http://www.therfc.com/ also has an > interchangable die tool that's more reasonablly priced, but again I > can't be sure it's the same. > > It looks the same, but it's hard to judge a tool without having it in > your hands. And Don is 100% right, a cheap tool is no bargain if it > breaks or does not do the job right. > > I would look for a ratcheting type tool, as crimping RG213/214 size > cable requires a lot of pressure and the ratcheting feature helps. I > don't think even a ratcheting tool will work for larger cables, such as > LMR600, where you need a lot of force. I believe those use a hydraulic > crimper. > > I wound up with three die sets to cover the work I do. > > Jack > > > Larry Phipps wrote: >> Thanks Jack. That begs the question for us lazy types... which >> supplier is cheapest? >> >> 73, >> Larry N8LP >> >> >> Jack Smith wrote: >>> I would add that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the >>> ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as >>> well. >>> >>> I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them >>> superior to solder-type connectors. Some crimp connectors are >>> double-crimp, i.e., both the center pin and shield are crimped and >>> others have a solder-type center pin and crimp shield. >>> >>> It's important that the crimp connector be the correct one for the >>> coax type and that you use the correct die size, of course. Some >>> crimp tools have interchangeable die sets and others are made with a >>> non-removable die. >>> >>> If you decide to buy a crimp tool, shop around, as there is at least >>> a 2:1 price variation from supplier-to-supplier for what seems to be >>> the same tool. >>> >>> Jack K8ZOA >>> >>> >>> >>> Don Wilhelm wrote: John, I too have come to the conclusion that working with BNC and N connectors is actually a lot easier than UHF types. But I continually hear from hams that look at the K2 and point to the BNC connector on the QRP unit then comment "THAT would HAVE to be changed to a UHF type - that is all I use". Somehow there seems to be a prevalent opinion that BNC and N connectors are harder to assemble than UHF, but I find exactly the opposite to be true. While it IS easy to assemble a UHF connector improperly and have it 'work' (
Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors
In a message dated 4/21/07 10:56:31 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I understand it was the aircraft industry that > developed crimping as a more reliable way to make joints than soldering, at > least for regular wiring in aircraft. > In the railroad signal industry, soldering has been phased out for connections other than those in electronic assemblies. Crimping and clamping are the only accepted methods for field-made connections. One reason is time - crimped connections are faster. Another is the wicking effect when stranded wire is soldered. 73 de Jim, N2EY ** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors
On Sat, 21 Apr 2007 11:06:08 -0400 Jack Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Also, MIL-C-39012 has many qualified N crimp connectors. > http://www.dscc.dla.mil/Downloads/MilSpec/Docs/MIL-PRF-39012/prf39012ss1.pdf > for your reading pleasure. > > > Further these crimp RF connectors appear to be qualified for use on > the International Space Station from what I can tell (lots of > reference links to follow). > > As I said in the initial post, you must use the correct tool and > connector and if you do it properly the result will be a high quality > connection. > > And, it isn't a friction fit -- it's actually closer to cold welding. > > > Jack > > I've learned a lot today about crimping connectors! I might have to re-think my opinion, but then that's what make this a good group to be involved with. I have a tool and some dies at work, perhaps I will make up some crimped leads and some soldered leads and compare them! I still find it odd that the KPA100 has SO239s though... Cheers, John ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] BNC's instead of SO-239's
Oak Hills Research offers kits of 2ea BNC female connectors with nicely pre-punched and finsihed plates that allow them to be installed in the SO-239 hole pattern. The kits include a ground lug. I've fitted my OHR WM-2 and Elecraft items with them. I was disappointed to find the kits are only supplied with two sets of mounting bolts. Surely 2 more 4-40 screws, washers and nuts wouldn't cut the profit margin THAT much. (:-)) I do hamfest and convention talks on how to install PL-259 and Type N connectors. Most of my HF station has been converted to Type N. If nothing else, they have "class". (:-)) Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] ProSet-K2 Boom Headset
I don't know the difference for the K2 version, but I use the ProSet Plus with adapter for Kenwood microphone as my K2 is wired for Kenwood type configuration. I've used it for ARRL FD contest as the SSB station at our FD site during the last two years and we've done quite well. I've used it at home for ARRL November Sweepstakes two years ago and did well but last year I had a terrible cold so didn't do so well. I used it last year for the PA QSO Party and got 1st place for Lehigh County overall (I think the 2x multiplier helped me beat out the 100W & 1KW stations that didn't get the 2x multiplier, HI HI). All examples above are for QRP only. I generally use CW otherwise but when I have had ragchews it works well. It is a very comfortable heaset and I like the ability to switch the phase which I do several times during a contest which seems to reduce the amount of fatigue compared to using my hi-fi stereo headphones. I did change R14 from 1k to 10k on the SSB board to get a bit more gain but otherwise used the headset and K2 as is. I would recommend it to K2 users as well as users of other radios from a performance and comfort standpoint. Mark, NK8Q Mike Geddes wrote: Wondering how many of you are using the ProSet-K2 boom headset sold on the Elecraft site? It is a nice microphone solution? Any of you have another preference for nice sounding microphone for your K2? Any opinions are welcome! 73, Mike N4JX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] crimp uhf connectors
Hi I have a (bad?) habit of re-using uhf connectors on different length of coax when needed. How would you un-crimp a uhf connector? Just though I would ask! Scott N5SM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors
Brian, Then there must be a difference between original manufacture and repair for those connections. The prior information I have from NASA and for avionics applications is that crimping is the preferred method of fastening. The only reason I can think of to vary from that in the field is that the proper tools may not be universally available. As has been pointed out, a proper crimped connection requires the proper tool and connectors designed to be used with those tools. Vary either piece of the equation and you end up with an unreliable connection. You can take some shortcuts with soldering, but if you crimp, make certain all the elements are correct. For instance, I do not crimp my Anderson PowerPole connections - because I do not have the correct tool - I have tried the low-priced model, and I have experienced several connector failures and have gone back to soldering them. 73, Don W3FPR Brian wrote: Hello all, Just my 2 cents. I don't own any type N connectors personally, but I do work on military aircraft and have never seen a UHF connector used. Crimping is not allowed; soldering is the only option for everything. 73 Brian N1WNC -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jack Smith Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 8:19 AM To: Larry Phipps Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors I bought my tool and die sets from RF Parts http://www.rfparts.com/. I have seen what seems to be the same tool at about half the price searching around on the internet a while ago, but I can't be sure if it is exactly the same. RF Connection http://www.therfc.com/ also has an interchangable die tool that's more reasonablly priced, but again I can't be sure it's the same. It looks the same, but it's hard to judge a tool without having it in your hands. And Don is 100% right, a cheap tool is no bargain if it breaks or does not do the job right. I would look for a ratcheting type tool, as crimping RG213/214 size cable requires a lot of pressure and the ratcheting feature helps. I don't think even a ratcheting tool will work for larger cables, such as LMR600, where you need a lot of force. I believe those use a hydraulic crimper. I wound up with three die sets to cover the work I do. Jack Larry Phipps wrote: Thanks Jack. That begs the question for us lazy types... which supplier is cheapest? 73, Larry N8LP Jack Smith wrote: I would add that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as well. I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them superior to solder-type connectors. Some crimp connectors are double-crimp, i.e., both the center pin and shield are crimped and others have a solder-type center pin and crimp shield. It's important that the crimp connector be the correct one for the coax type and that you use the correct die size, of course. Some crimp tools have interchangeable die sets and others are made with a non-removable die. If you decide to buy a crimp tool, shop around, as there is at least a 2:1 price variation from supplier-to-supplier for what seems to be the same tool. Jack K8ZOA Don Wilhelm wrote: John, I too have come to the conclusion that working with BNC and N connectors is actually a lot easier than UHF types. But I continually hear from hams that look at the K2 and point to the BNC connector on the QRP unit then comment "THAT would HAVE to be changed to a UHF type - that is all I use". Somehow there seems to be a prevalent opinion that BNC and N connectors are harder to assemble than UHF, but I find exactly the opposite to be true. While it IS easy to assemble a UHF connector improperly and have it 'work' (after a fashion), improperly assembled BNC/N/TNC/C connectors usually won't work at all. In the past, I subscribed to the 'UHF is easier' camp until I discovered that my only failing with BNC and N connectors was that I did not pay enough attention to the coax stripping length instructions. I have finally invested in a set of ratchet crimpers so I can use crimp style connectors - that makes the BNC/N/TNC/C connectors MUCH easier to assemble than the UHF type - but one must still be careful about cutting the coax correctly. 73, Don W3FPR John GM4SLV wrote: But in terms of being a PITA to put the plugs on correctly, and mostly these days they seem made of soft cheese, I'd have a /real/ RF connector over a "UHF" one any day. Proper N/BNC/TNC/C types, with pressure sleave and "top hat" ferrule for under the braid are a joy to fit, requiring a knife, a pair of small sidecutters, a _small_ soldering iron for the centre pin only and a couple of small spanners to do up the clamp nut. No messing about with soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a decent fist of soldering the braid (or
[Elecraft] ProSet-K2 Boom Headset
Wondering how many of you are using the ProSet-K2 boom headset sold on the Elecraft site? It is a nice microphone solution? Any of you have another preference for nice sounding microphone for your K2? Any opinions are welcome! 73, Mike N4JX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors
Also, MIL-C-39012 has many qualified N crimp connectors. http://www.dscc.dla.mil/Downloads/MilSpec/Docs/MIL-PRF-39012/prf39012ss1.pdf for your reading pleasure. Further these crimp RF connectors appear to be qualified for use on the International Space Station from what I can tell (lots of reference links to follow). As I said in the initial post, you must use the correct tool and connector and if you do it properly the result will be a high quality connection. And, it isn't a friction fit -- it's actually closer to cold welding. Jack Mike S wrote: You could let NASA argue with him. GSFC-733-HARN-01, Rev C, July 2003, DESIGN AND MANUFACTURING STANDARD for ELECTRICAL HARNESSES (GFSC is Goddard Space Flight Center) says: "4.20 Conductor terminations- The preferred method of terminating conductors is with a crimp termination. However, where necessary, solder terminations are acceptable." At 10:34 AM 4/21/2007, Sam Morgan wrote... Sam Morgan wrote: seems I have been corrected, friction contact is better than soldered connections guess my Navy electronics teacher with his 20+ years of experience was a liar, but I'll let ya'll tell him that, I wouldn't dare, I value my life more than that. -- GB & 73's KA5OAI Sam Morgan ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors
You could let NASA argue with him. GSFC-733-HARN-01, Rev C, July 2003, DESIGN AND MANUFACTURING STANDARD for ELECTRICAL HARNESSES (GFSC is Goddard Space Flight Center) says: "4.20 Conductor terminations- The preferred method of terminating conductors is with a crimp termination. However, where necessary, solder terminations are acceptable." At 10:34 AM 4/21/2007, Sam Morgan wrote... Sam Morgan wrote: seems I have been corrected, friction contact is better than soldered connections guess my Navy electronics teacher with his 20+ years of experience was a liar, but I'll let ya'll tell him that, I wouldn't dare, I value my life more than that. -- GB & 73's KA5OAI Sam Morgan ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors
I'm surprised to hear that. I understand it was the aircraft industry that developed crimping as a more reliable way to make joints than soldering, at least for regular wiring in aircraft. Having seen a lot of bad soldering and assembly of PL259s done by my amateur friends, I have a mind to buy a crimper set for the club so the members can make quality connections to the plugs of their choice. David G3UNA - Original Message - From: "Brian " <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 3:31 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors Hello all, Just my 2 cents. I don't own any type N connectors personally, but I do work on military aircraft and have never seen a UHF connector used. Crimping is not allowed; soldering is the only option for everything. 73 Brian N1WNC -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jack Smith Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 8:19 AM To: Larry Phipps Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors I bought my tool and die sets from RF Parts http://www.rfparts.com/. I have seen what seems to be the same tool at about half the price searching around on the internet a while ago, but I can't be sure if it is exactly the same. RF Connection http://www.therfc.com/ also has an interchangable die tool that's more reasonablly priced, but again I can't be sure it's the same. It looks the same, but it's hard to judge a tool without having it in your hands. And Don is 100% right, a cheap tool is no bargain if it breaks or does not do the job right. I would look for a ratcheting type tool, as crimping RG213/214 size cable requires a lot of pressure and the ratcheting feature helps. I don't think even a ratcheting tool will work for larger cables, such as LMR600, where you need a lot of force. I believe those use a hydraulic crimper. I wound up with three die sets to cover the work I do. Jack Larry Phipps wrote: Thanks Jack. That begs the question for us lazy types... which supplier is cheapest? 73, Larry N8LP Jack Smith wrote: I would add that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as well. I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them superior to solder-type connectors. Some crimp connectors are double-crimp, i.e., both the center pin and shield are crimped and others have a solder-type center pin and crimp shield. It's important that the crimp connector be the correct one for the coax type and that you use the correct die size, of course. Some crimp tools have interchangeable die sets and others are made with a non-removable die. If you decide to buy a crimp tool, shop around, as there is at least a 2:1 price variation from supplier-to-supplier for what seems to be the same tool. Jack K8ZOA Don Wilhelm wrote: John, I too have come to the conclusion that working with BNC and N connectors is actually a lot easier than UHF types. But I continually hear from hams that look at the K2 and point to the BNC connector on the QRP unit then comment "THAT would HAVE to be changed to a UHF type - that is all I use". Somehow there seems to be a prevalent opinion that BNC and N connectors are harder to assemble than UHF, but I find exactly the opposite to be true. While it IS easy to assemble a UHF connector improperly and have it 'work' (after a fashion), improperly assembled BNC/N/TNC/C connectors usually won't work at all. In the past, I subscribed to the 'UHF is easier' camp until I discovered that my only failing with BNC and N connectors was that I did not pay enough attention to the coax stripping length instructions. I have finally invested in a set of ratchet crimpers so I can use crimp style connectors - that makes the BNC/N/TNC/C connectors MUCH easier to assemble than the UHF type - but one must still be careful about cutting the coax correctly. 73, Don W3FPR John GM4SLV wrote: But in terms of being a PITA to put the plugs on correctly, and mostly these days they seem made of soft cheese, I'd have a /real/ RF connector over a "UHF" one any day. Proper N/BNC/TNC/C types, with pressure sleave and "top hat" ferrule for under the braid are a joy to fit, requiring a knife, a pair of small sidecutters, a _small_ soldering iron for the centre pin only and a couple of small spanners to do up the clamp nut. No messing about with soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a decent fist of soldering the braid (or usually just relying on pressure and the mstical force of gravity to hold the braid in contact with the shell of the plug). I agree that nobody is going to notice a performance problem with "UHF" connectors at HF but they just feel wrong to me... I didn't even know Elecraft used 259s on some of their products (only having a barefoot K2 and a K1) and it kinda surprises me. They use BNCs on the rigs...why not c
RE: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors
Hi Sam, I wouldn't call anyone a liar either, but I remember an instructor at Destroyer School (also Navy) telling us how to handle a misfire on 5 inch guns. He said - and I'm not making this up - that if the barrel is hot, we should NOT attempt to cool it off by hosing it down with cold water from the fire hoses as that would drive the heat in and perhaps cook-off the misfired round. I'm sure this guy had not majored in physics, and probably had never studied thermodynamics. He was simply parroting what his gunnery instructor had told him. That's how misconceptions take on an air of authenticity over time. 73, Tom I -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Sam Morgan Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 10:34 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors Sam Morgan wrote: seems I have been corrected, friction contact is better than soldered connections guess my Navy electronics teacher with his 20+ years of experience was a liar, but I'll let ya'll tell him that, I wouldn't dare, I value my life more than that. -- GB & 73's KA5OAI Sam Morgan ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors
I have several good tools... just had to respond to that opening ;-) 73, Larry N8LP Don Wilhelm wrote: Larry, Try Sharper Concepts . You may have to buy two crimpers to cover all common coax sizes, but I found their prices less than a single tool with interchangable dies. I don't know if they are the cheapest, but I don't usually buy tools just because they are cheap, cheap tools are usually not up to the task that needs to be done, but some quality tools are moderately priced. Cheap tools are rarely any bargain. 73, Don W3FPR Larry Phipps wrote: Thanks Jack. That begs the question for us lazy types... which supplier is cheapest? 73, Larry N8LP Jack Smith wrote: I would add that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as well. I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them superior to solder-type connectors. Some crimp connectors are double-crimp, i.e., both the center pin and shield are crimped and others have a solder-type center pin and crimp shield. It's important that the crimp connector be the correct one for the coax type and that you use the correct die size, of course. Some crimp tools have interchangeable die sets and others are made with a non-removable die. If you decide to buy a crimp tool, shop around, as there is at least a 2:1 price variation from supplier-to-supplier for what seems to be the same tool. Jack K8ZOA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors
Sam Morgan wrote: seems I have been corrected, friction contact is better than soldered connections guess my Navy electronics teacher with his 20+ years of experience was a liar, but I'll let ya'll tell him that, I wouldn't dare, I value my life more than that. -- GB & 73's KA5OAI Sam Morgan ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors
Hello all, Just my 2 cents. I don't own any type N connectors personally, but I do work on military aircraft and have never seen a UHF connector used. Crimping is not allowed; soldering is the only option for everything. 73 Brian N1WNC -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jack Smith Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 8:19 AM To: Larry Phipps Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors I bought my tool and die sets from RF Parts http://www.rfparts.com/. I have seen what seems to be the same tool at about half the price searching around on the internet a while ago, but I can't be sure if it is exactly the same. RF Connection http://www.therfc.com/ also has an interchangable die tool that's more reasonablly priced, but again I can't be sure it's the same. It looks the same, but it's hard to judge a tool without having it in your hands. And Don is 100% right, a cheap tool is no bargain if it breaks or does not do the job right. I would look for a ratcheting type tool, as crimping RG213/214 size cable requires a lot of pressure and the ratcheting feature helps. I don't think even a ratcheting tool will work for larger cables, such as LMR600, where you need a lot of force. I believe those use a hydraulic crimper. I wound up with three die sets to cover the work I do. Jack Larry Phipps wrote: > Thanks Jack. That begs the question for us lazy types... which > supplier is cheapest? > > 73, > Larry N8LP > > > Jack Smith wrote: >> I would add that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the >> ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as >> well. >> >> I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them >> superior to solder-type connectors. Some crimp connectors are >> double-crimp, i.e., both the center pin and shield are crimped and >> others have a solder-type center pin and crimp shield. >> >> It's important that the crimp connector be the correct one for the >> coax type and that you use the correct die size, of course. Some >> crimp tools have interchangeable die sets and others are made with a >> non-removable die. >> >> If you decide to buy a crimp tool, shop around, as there is at least >> a 2:1 price variation from supplier-to-supplier for what seems to be >> the same tool. >> >> Jack K8ZOA >> >> >> >> Don Wilhelm wrote: >>> John, >>> >>> I too have come to the conclusion that working with BNC and N >>> connectors is actually a lot easier than UHF types. >>> >>> But I continually hear from hams that look at the K2 and point to >>> the BNC connector on the QRP unit then comment "THAT would HAVE to >>> be changed to a UHF type - that is all I use". >>> >>> Somehow there seems to be a prevalent opinion that BNC and N >>> connectors are harder to assemble than UHF, but I find exactly the >>> opposite to be true. While it IS easy to assemble a UHF connector >>> improperly and have it 'work' (after a fashion), improperly >>> assembled BNC/N/TNC/C connectors usually won't work at all. In the >>> past, I subscribed to the 'UHF is easier' camp until I discovered >>> that my only failing with BNC and N connectors was that I did not >>> pay enough attention to the coax stripping length instructions. >>> >>> I have finally invested in a set of ratchet crimpers so I can use >>> crimp style connectors - that makes the BNC/N/TNC/C connectors MUCH >>> easier to assemble than the UHF type - but one must still be careful >>> about cutting the coax correctly. >>> >>> 73, >>> Don W3FPR >>> >>> John GM4SLV wrote: >>> But in terms of being a PITA to put the plugs on correctly, and mostly these days they seem made of soft cheese, I'd have a /real/ RF connector over a "UHF" one any day. Proper N/BNC/TNC/C types, with pressure sleave and "top hat" ferrule for under the braid are a joy to fit, requiring a knife, a pair of small sidecutters, a _small_ soldering iron for the centre pin only and a couple of small spanners to do up the clamp nut. No messing about with soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a decent fist of soldering the braid (or usually just relying on pressure and the mstical force of gravity to hold the braid in contact with the shell of the plug). I agree that nobody is going to notice a performance problem with "UHF" connectors at HF but they just feel wrong to me... I didn't even know Elecraft used 259s on some of their products (only having a barefoot K2 and a K1) and it kinda surprises me. They use BNCs on the rigs...why not continue that to the PA? Even a BNC is adequate for the power levels involved and anyone with a K2 must be happy with working with BNCs already Cheers, John GM4SLV >>> __
Re: [Elecraft] KAT-100
Tom, Would it not be easier to simply connect the KAT100 permanently to the secondary power supply? If you have the secondary supply always connected to the K2 (and powered on) for backup QRP operation, then I don't understand why you would want to provide a switch in the KAT100 power line. There is no real advantage to powering the KAT100 from the same supply that powers the KPA100. You would have to be certain the secondary supply is powered on first, but that should be easy enough to accomplish. Or perhaps you are envisioning some other operating situation that has not occurred to me yet. 73, Don W3FPR KJ3D wrote: Hi Don and Jim, Thanks for taking the time to respond. The KPA100 will be internal and the KAT100 will be in an EC1. After re-reading the manuals for the KPA and KAT 100's, maybe this isn't so hard. I think that I can connect my secondary supply directly to the K2 and then power the KAT100 via a switch to select either the main or secondary supplies while main/secondary power to the K2 would be automatically switched from main to secondary if the Astron fails. Does this sound reasonable or am I missing something else? Thanks, Tom ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KAT-100
Hi Don and Jim, Thanks for taking the time to respond. The KPA100 will be internal and the KAT100 will be in an EC1. After re-reading the manuals for the KPA and KAT 100's, maybe this isn't so hard. I think that I can connect my secondary supply directly to the K2 and then power the KAT100 via a switch to select either the main or secondary supplies while main/secondary power to the K2 would be automatically switched from main to secondary if the Astron fails. Does this sound reasonable or am I missing something else? Thanks, Tom -Original Message- From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 8:05 AM To: KJ3D Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT-100 TRUE to all your T/F questions. To answer the REAL question, yes the KPA100 will go into bypass if power is removed from it. The KAT100 does present a problem if it is powered from the same supply as the KPA100 and that supply fails or is switched off because the KAT100 does not use latching relays - with power off it will revert to all capacitors disconnected and all inductors bypassed and ANT 1 will be selected. In other words, the K2 output will be connected to whatever SWR your antenna presents without the tuner in-line. The KAT100 and base K2 SHOULD continue to work seamlessly at lower power if you power them both from the low current power supply, but I have not really tried that scenario. 73, Don W3FPR KJ3D wrote: > Good Morning Group, > > I'm beginning the KPA100 and KAT100 build this weekend and have some > questions. > > True or False: I must run two power lines from my Astron 35, one to > the KPA100 and another to the KAT100. > > True or False: I MAY connect a secondary power supply (turned off) to > the barrel connector on the K2 in case the Astron fails. > > True or False: If the Astron fails, the K2 will go into bypass mode > and continue to work at QRP levels if I then turn on the secondary power supply. > > REAL QUESTION:If the K2 is running in the bypass mode, will the > KAT100 then take power from the secondary power supply? > > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors
I bought my tool and die sets from RF Parts http://www.rfparts.com/. I have seen what seems to be the same tool at about half the price searching around on the internet a while ago, but I can't be sure if it is exactly the same. RF Connection http://www.therfc.com/ also has an interchangable die tool that's more reasonablly priced, but again I can't be sure it's the same. It looks the same, but it's hard to judge a tool without having it in your hands. And Don is 100% right, a cheap tool is no bargain if it breaks or does not do the job right. I would look for a ratcheting type tool, as crimping RG213/214 size cable requires a lot of pressure and the ratcheting feature helps. I don't think even a ratcheting tool will work for larger cables, such as LMR600, where you need a lot of force. I believe those use a hydraulic crimper. I wound up with three die sets to cover the work I do. Jack Larry Phipps wrote: Thanks Jack. That begs the question for us lazy types... which supplier is cheapest? 73, Larry N8LP Jack Smith wrote: I would add that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as well. I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them superior to solder-type connectors. Some crimp connectors are double-crimp, i.e., both the center pin and shield are crimped and others have a solder-type center pin and crimp shield. It's important that the crimp connector be the correct one for the coax type and that you use the correct die size, of course. Some crimp tools have interchangeable die sets and others are made with a non-removable die. If you decide to buy a crimp tool, shop around, as there is at least a 2:1 price variation from supplier-to-supplier for what seems to be the same tool. Jack K8ZOA Don Wilhelm wrote: John, I too have come to the conclusion that working with BNC and N connectors is actually a lot easier than UHF types. But I continually hear from hams that look at the K2 and point to the BNC connector on the QRP unit then comment "THAT would HAVE to be changed to a UHF type - that is all I use". Somehow there seems to be a prevalent opinion that BNC and N connectors are harder to assemble than UHF, but I find exactly the opposite to be true. While it IS easy to assemble a UHF connector improperly and have it 'work' (after a fashion), improperly assembled BNC/N/TNC/C connectors usually won't work at all. In the past, I subscribed to the 'UHF is easier' camp until I discovered that my only failing with BNC and N connectors was that I did not pay enough attention to the coax stripping length instructions. I have finally invested in a set of ratchet crimpers so I can use crimp style connectors - that makes the BNC/N/TNC/C connectors MUCH easier to assemble than the UHF type - but one must still be careful about cutting the coax correctly. 73, Don W3FPR John GM4SLV wrote: But in terms of being a PITA to put the plugs on correctly, and mostly these days they seem made of soft cheese, I'd have a /real/ RF connector over a "UHF" one any day. Proper N/BNC/TNC/C types, with pressure sleave and "top hat" ferrule for under the braid are a joy to fit, requiring a knife, a pair of small sidecutters, a _small_ soldering iron for the centre pin only and a couple of small spanners to do up the clamp nut. No messing about with soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a decent fist of soldering the braid (or usually just relying on pressure and the mstical force of gravity to hold the braid in contact with the shell of the plug). I agree that nobody is going to notice a performance problem with "UHF" connectors at HF but they just feel wrong to me... I didn't even know Elecraft used 259s on some of their products (only having a barefoot K2 and a K1) and it kinda surprises me. They use BNCs on the rigs...why not continue that to the PA? Even a BNC is adequate for the power levels involved and anyone with a K2 must be happy with working with BNCs already Cheers, John GM4SLV ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber
Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors
1. Properly applied, the crimp provides a gas-tight metal-to-metal seal. 2. Also, the ferrule provides a strain relief at least as good as the braid-clamp in a conventional N or BNC connector. 3. For UHF connectors, double crimp = no heat and thus eliminates the chance of melting the dielectric when used with polyethylene dielectric cables. 4. I installed a batch of 50 SMA bulkheads connectors with 0.080" diameter Teflon coax last year and it would have been a real challenge with other than a crimp shield connector. 5. I've swept the crimp connectors I install up to 3 GHz with my VNA and find them more than adequate in terms of return loss and through loss. 6. As far as longevity, I have some crimped UHF connectors that are 20 years old installed outside (protected with Scotch 33 electrical tape, then self-amalgamating tape, topped off with Scotchcoat and they show no signs of degradation. 7. Your opinion may differ and your standards for adequate return loss may differ from mine. Jack Sam Morgan wrote: Jack Smith wrote: I would add that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as well. I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them superior to solder-type connectors. snip uh pardon my ignorance... since when is a compression styled contact point *electrically* superior to a soldered one? at any frequency? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors
On Sat, 21 Apr 2007 07:42:03 -0500 Sam Morgan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Jack Smith wrote: > > I would add that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the > > ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors > > as well. > > > > I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them > > superior to solder-type connectors. > > > snip > > uh pardon my ignorance... > > since when is a compression styled contact point > *electrically* > superior to a soldered one? > at any frequency? I'm pleasantly surprised that so many people are joining the "N type is better than UHF" camp, but like Sam I still think crimp connections aren't the way to go. Apart from the cost of decent tools I find crimp connectors that are put to any sort of regular handling tend to fail earlier. If the cable is permanently installed and laced into a bay for example then they last quite well, but I still prefer to solder my centre pins and rely on the large surface area and clamping pressure of a traditional plug for making the braid/shell connection. I've particularly never been happy crimping N types onto larger cables (eg RG213), although there are a few cables like that in our local UHF TV transmitters that I've installed. The first sign of failure and they'll be replace with proper ones! I've put hundreds of N/BNC/TNC/SMA/SMB/SMC connectors on at work and it galls me to have to use PL259s at home, so as far as I can I avoid. The pressure clamp variety is the only style of 259 I'll work with, and if I can't get hold of one then I use a 295 to N or BNC adaptor and a properly terminated cable. Any (tiny) loss in the adaptor is more than offset by the satisfaction of knowing the connector/cable termination is right. Cheers, John GM4SLV ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors
Sam, Crimped connections are superior to soldered whenever the crimp provides a gas-tight connection. In a similar manner, wire connections made onto square posts with a proper wire-wrap tool provide a better connection than one which is soldered. 73, Don W3FPR Sam Morgan wrote: uh pardon my ignorance... since when is a compression styled contact point *electrically* superior to a soldered one? at any frequency? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors
Larry, Try Sharper Concepts . You may have to buy two crimpers to cover all common coax sizes, but I found their prices less than a single tool with interchangable dies. I don't know if they are the cheapest, but I don't usually buy tools just because they are cheap, cheap tools are usually not up to the task that needs to be done, but some quality tools are moderately priced. Cheap tools are rarely any bargain. 73, Don W3FPR Larry Phipps wrote: Thanks Jack. That begs the question for us lazy types... which supplier is cheapest? 73, Larry N8LP Jack Smith wrote: I would add that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as well. I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them superior to solder-type connectors. Some crimp connectors are double-crimp, i.e., both the center pin and shield are crimped and others have a solder-type center pin and crimp shield. It's important that the crimp connector be the correct one for the coax type and that you use the correct die size, of course. Some crimp tools have interchangeable die sets and others are made with a non-removable die. If you decide to buy a crimp tool, shop around, as there is at least a 2:1 price variation from supplier-to-supplier for what seems to be the same tool. Jack K8ZOA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] W1 Power Meter
Recently there was some discussion about wanting to mount the W! power meter in a case and several suggestions were offered. I have just finished mounting mine in a 4" X 2" X 5 1/5" utility box by making a small pc board to mount the LEDs separately. It turns out that there is no need to run a wire from each LED leg to the main board; the way the LED's are matrixed you only need 12 wires. The 4" X 2" front panel has the LED indicators for forward power and SWR mounted horizontally with the 3 LED range selection LEDs mounted underneath and the on/off switch in the lower right corner. The coax connectors, DC power in, and the digital socket are mounted on the back panel. The main board is mounted on several spacers in the bottom of the box. It makes a nice addition to my small station if I do say so my self. Hi. If anyone is interested I can send you a .pdf file with some pictures. Just contact me off the reflector. Larry AG4NN K2 2529 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors
Jack Smith wrote: I would add that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as well. I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them superior to solder-type connectors. snip uh pardon my ignorance... since when is a compression styled contact point *electrically* superior to a soldered one? at any frequency? -- GB & 73's KA5OAI Sam Morgan ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KDSP2 problem
Don, That was it. Thanks for your assistance as usual! You are so helpful, and please know it is appreciated by all of us Elecrafters. Thanks and 73, Mike N4JX - Original Message - From: "Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mike Geddes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "Elecraft" Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 8:17 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KDSP2 problem Mike, If the KDSP2 seems to be working properly, I must ask about the possibility of the LED being reversed. Shine a light on the top of the KDSP2 and look carefully at the LED - near the base you will find some reflective metal through the colored lens - there is a narrow wedge in that metal. If the wedge points toward the connector, the LED is mounted correctly, but if it points toward the edge of the board, it is mounted backwards. 73, Don W3FPR Mike Geddes wrote: Installed the KDSP2 module in my K2 this morning. During initial checkout, the LED light does not come on upon power up, or at any other time. The other steps on the initial checkout (p.18) seem to be working as specified. What does it mean when the LED does not come on? Is there any particular thing I should be checking or looking for? Is it possible that the module is defective? I double checked the connections to make sure the KDSP2 board was inserted into the control board jumpers correctly, and that the DSPx module was inserted in the KDSP2 board correctly. Any suggestions are appreciated. Tnx and 73, Mike N4JX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors
Thanks Jack. That begs the question for us lazy types... which supplier is cheapest? 73, Larry N8LP Jack Smith wrote: I would add that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as well. I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them superior to solder-type connectors. Some crimp connectors are double-crimp, i.e., both the center pin and shield are crimped and others have a solder-type center pin and crimp shield. It's important that the crimp connector be the correct one for the coax type and that you use the correct die size, of course. Some crimp tools have interchangeable die sets and others are made with a non-removable die. If you decide to buy a crimp tool, shop around, as there is at least a 2:1 price variation from supplier-to-supplier for what seems to be the same tool. Jack K8ZOA Don Wilhelm wrote: John, I too have come to the conclusion that working with BNC and N connectors is actually a lot easier than UHF types. But I continually hear from hams that look at the K2 and point to the BNC connector on the QRP unit then comment "THAT would HAVE to be changed to a UHF type - that is all I use". Somehow there seems to be a prevalent opinion that BNC and N connectors are harder to assemble than UHF, but I find exactly the opposite to be true. While it IS easy to assemble a UHF connector improperly and have it 'work' (after a fashion), improperly assembled BNC/N/TNC/C connectors usually won't work at all. In the past, I subscribed to the 'UHF is easier' camp until I discovered that my only failing with BNC and N connectors was that I did not pay enough attention to the coax stripping length instructions. I have finally invested in a set of ratchet crimpers so I can use crimp style connectors - that makes the BNC/N/TNC/C connectors MUCH easier to assemble than the UHF type - but one must still be careful about cutting the coax correctly. 73, Don W3FPR John GM4SLV wrote: But in terms of being a PITA to put the plugs on correctly, and mostly these days they seem made of soft cheese, I'd have a /real/ RF connector over a "UHF" one any day. Proper N/BNC/TNC/C types, with pressure sleave and "top hat" ferrule for under the braid are a joy to fit, requiring a knife, a pair of small sidecutters, a _small_ soldering iron for the centre pin only and a couple of small spanners to do up the clamp nut. No messing about with soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a decent fist of soldering the braid (or usually just relying on pressure and the mstical force of gravity to hold the braid in contact with the shell of the plug). I agree that nobody is going to notice a performance problem with "UHF" connectors at HF but they just feel wrong to me... I didn't even know Elecraft used 259s on some of their products (only having a barefoot K2 and a K1) and it kinda surprises me. They use BNCs on the rigs...why not continue that to the PA? Even a BNC is adequate for the power levels involved and anyone with a K2 must be happy with working with BNCs already Cheers, John GM4SLV ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors
I would add that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as well. I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them superior to solder-type connectors. Some crimp connectors are double-crimp, i.e., both the center pin and shield are crimped and others have a solder-type center pin and crimp shield. It's important that the crimp connector be the correct one for the coax type and that you use the correct die size, of course. Some crimp tools have interchangeable die sets and others are made with a non-removable die. If you decide to buy a crimp tool, shop around, as there is at least a 2:1 price variation from supplier-to-supplier for what seems to be the same tool. Jack K8ZOA Don Wilhelm wrote: John, I too have come to the conclusion that working with BNC and N connectors is actually a lot easier than UHF types. But I continually hear from hams that look at the K2 and point to the BNC connector on the QRP unit then comment "THAT would HAVE to be changed to a UHF type - that is all I use". Somehow there seems to be a prevalent opinion that BNC and N connectors are harder to assemble than UHF, but I find exactly the opposite to be true. While it IS easy to assemble a UHF connector improperly and have it 'work' (after a fashion), improperly assembled BNC/N/TNC/C connectors usually won't work at all. In the past, I subscribed to the 'UHF is easier' camp until I discovered that my only failing with BNC and N connectors was that I did not pay enough attention to the coax stripping length instructions. I have finally invested in a set of ratchet crimpers so I can use crimp style connectors - that makes the BNC/N/TNC/C connectors MUCH easier to assemble than the UHF type - but one must still be careful about cutting the coax correctly. 73, Don W3FPR John GM4SLV wrote: But in terms of being a PITA to put the plugs on correctly, and mostly these days they seem made of soft cheese, I'd have a /real/ RF connector over a "UHF" one any day. Proper N/BNC/TNC/C types, with pressure sleave and "top hat" ferrule for under the braid are a joy to fit, requiring a knife, a pair of small sidecutters, a _small_ soldering iron for the centre pin only and a couple of small spanners to do up the clamp nut. No messing about with soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a decent fist of soldering the braid (or usually just relying on pressure and the mstical force of gravity to hold the braid in contact with the shell of the plug). I agree that nobody is going to notice a performance problem with "UHF" connectors at HF but they just feel wrong to me... I didn't even know Elecraft used 259s on some of their products (only having a barefoot K2 and a K1) and it kinda surprises me. They use BNCs on the rigs...why not continue that to the PA? Even a BNC is adequate for the power levels involved and anyone with a K2 must be happy with working with BNCs already Cheers, John GM4SLV ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KDSP2 problem
Mike, If the KDSP2 seems to be working properly, I must ask about the possibility of the LED being reversed. Shine a light on the top of the KDSP2 and look carefully at the LED - near the base you will find some reflective metal through the colored lens - there is a narrow wedge in that metal. If the wedge points toward the connector, the LED is mounted correctly, but if it points toward the edge of the board, it is mounted backwards. 73, Don W3FPR Mike Geddes wrote: Installed the KDSP2 module in my K2 this morning. During initial checkout, the LED light does not come on upon power up, or at any other time. The other steps on the initial checkout (p.18) seem to be working as specified. What does it mean when the LED does not come on? Is there any particular thing I should be checking or looking for? Is it possible that the module is defective? I double checked the connections to make sure the KDSP2 board was inserted into the control board jumpers correctly, and that the DSPx module was inserted in the KDSP2 board correctly. Any suggestions are appreciated. Tnx and 73, Mike N4JX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAT-100
TRUE to all your T/F questions. To answer the REAL question, yes the KPA100 will go into bypass if power is removed from it. The KAT100 does present a problem if it is powered from the same supply as the KPA100 and that supply fails or is switched off because the KAT100 does not use latching relays - with power off it will revert to all capacitors disconnected and all inductors bypassed and ANT 1 will be selected. In other words, the K2 output will be connected to whatever SWR your antenna presents without the tuner in-line. The KAT100 and base K2 SHOULD continue to work seamlessly at lower power if you power them both from the low current power supply, but I have not really tried that scenario. 73, Don W3FPR KJ3D wrote: Good Morning Group, I'm beginning the KPA100 and KAT100 build this weekend and have some questions. True or False: I must run two power lines from my Astron 35, one to the KPA100 and another to the KAT100. True or False: I MAY connect a secondary power supply (turned off) to the barrel connector on the K2 in case the Astron fails. True or False: If the Astron fails, the K2 will go into bypass mode and continue to work at QRP levels if I then turn on the secondary power supply. REAL QUESTION: If the K2 is running in the bypass mode, will the KAT100 then take power from the secondary power supply? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors
On Saturday, April 21, 2007 at 10:13 AM, John GM4SLV wrote: Proper N/BNC/TNC/C types, with pressure sleave and "top hat" ferrule for under the braid are a joy to fit, requiring a knife, a pair of small sidecutters, a _small_ soldering iron for the centre pin only and a couple of small spanners to do up the clamp nut. No messing about with soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a decent fist of soldering the braid (or usually just relying on pressure and the mstical force of gravity to hold the braid in contact with the shell of the plug). - I agree with John and installed 'N' connectors in my KPA100 at the outset for the same reasons. 73, Geoff GM4ESD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KAT-100
How tacky - I forgot to sign my own question... Thanks es 73, Tom, KJ3D -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of KJ3D Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 7:46 AM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] KAT-100 Good Morning Group, I'm beginning the KPA100 and KAT100 build this weekend and have some questions. True or False: I must run two power lines from my Astron 35, one to the KPA100 and another to the KAT100. True or False: I MAY connect a secondary power supply (turned off) to the barrel connector on the K2 in case the Astron fails. True or False: If the Astron fails, the K2 will go into bypass mode and continue to work at QRP levels if I then turn on the secondary power supply. REAL QUESTION: If the K2 is running in the bypass mode, will the KAT100 then take power from the secondary power supply? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KDSP2 problem
Installed the KDSP2 module in my K2 this morning. During initial checkout, the LED light does not come on upon power up, or at any other time. The other steps on the initial checkout (p.18) seem to be working as specified. What does it mean when the LED does not come on? Is there any particular thing I should be checking or looking for? Is it possible that the module is defective? I double checked the connections to make sure the KDSP2 board was inserted into the control board jumpers correctly, and that the DSPx module was inserted in the KDSP2 board correctly. Any suggestions are appreciated. Tnx and 73, Mike N4JX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors
John, I too have come to the conclusion that working with BNC and N connectors is actually a lot easier than UHF types. But I continually hear from hams that look at the K2 and point to the BNC connector on the QRP unit then comment "THAT would HAVE to be changed to a UHF type - that is all I use". Somehow there seems to be a prevalent opinion that BNC and N connectors are harder to assemble than UHF, but I find exactly the opposite to be true. While it IS easy to assemble a UHF connector improperly and have it 'work' (after a fashion), improperly assembled BNC/N/TNC/C connectors usually won't work at all. In the past, I subscribed to the 'UHF is easier' camp until I discovered that my only failing with BNC and N connectors was that I did not pay enough attention to the coax stripping length instructions. I have finally invested in a set of ratchet crimpers so I can use crimp style connectors - that makes the BNC/N/TNC/C connectors MUCH easier to assemble than the UHF type - but one must still be careful about cutting the coax correctly. 73, Don W3FPR John GM4SLV wrote: But in terms of being a PITA to put the plugs on correctly, and mostly these days they seem made of soft cheese, I'd have a /real/ RF connector over a "UHF" one any day. Proper N/BNC/TNC/C types, with pressure sleave and "top hat" ferrule for under the braid are a joy to fit, requiring a knife, a pair of small sidecutters, a _small_ soldering iron for the centre pin only and a couple of small spanners to do up the clamp nut. No messing about with soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a decent fist of soldering the braid (or usually just relying on pressure and the mstical force of gravity to hold the braid in contact with the shell of the plug). I agree that nobody is going to notice a performance problem with "UHF" connectors at HF but they just feel wrong to me... I didn't even know Elecraft used 259s on some of their products (only having a barefoot K2 and a K1) and it kinda surprises me. They use BNCs on the rigs...why not continue that to the PA? Even a BNC is adequate for the power levels involved and anyone with a K2 must be happy with working with BNCs already Cheers, John GM4SLV ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KAT-100
Good Morning Group, I'm beginning the KPA100 and KAT100 build this weekend and have some questions. True or False: I must run two power lines from my Astron 35, one to the KPA100 and another to the KAT100. True or False: I MAY connect a secondary power supply (turned off) to the barrel connector on the K2 in case the Astron fails. True or False: If the Astron fails, the K2 will go into bypass mode and continue to work at QRP levels if I then turn on the secondary power supply. REAL QUESTION: If the K2 is running in the bypass mode, will the KAT100 then take power from the secondary power supply? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors
On Fri, 20 Apr 2007 19:32:34 -0700 "Ron D'Eau Claire" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > So, in terms of impedance matching, there's no reason to consider the > "UHF" connector inferior to any newer types for the HF bands, and > even through 6 meters at least. > > Ron AC7AC > But in terms of being a PITA to put the plugs on correctly, and mostly these days they seem made of soft cheese, I'd have a /real/ RF connector over a "UHF" one any day. Proper N/BNC/TNC/C types, with pressure sleave and "top hat" ferrule for under the braid are a joy to fit, requiring a knife, a pair of small sidecutters, a _small_ soldering iron for the centre pin only and a couple of small spanners to do up the clamp nut. No messing about with soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a decent fist of soldering the braid (or usually just relying on pressure and the mstical force of gravity to hold the braid in contact with the shell of the plug). I agree that nobody is going to notice a performance problem with "UHF" connectors at HF but they just feel wrong to me... I didn't even know Elecraft used 259s on some of their products (only having a barefoot K2 and a K1) and it kinda surprises me. They use BNCs on the rigs...why not continue that to the PA? Even a BNC is adequate for the power levels involved and anyone with a K2 must be happy with working with BNCs already Cheers, John GM4SLV ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Nifty little power supply: Gamma Research HPS-1a
I'd say that is "cost effective" design as long as the user is aware of the limitations. If speech compression is used extensively, then the average current will rise and the psu might fold back to protect itself. Interesting idea, certainly good for cw. Lightweight is good for dxpeditions. Along similar lines I heard of a group that used small battery chargers and locally borrowed batteries run from generators that proved effective. It's a similar idea, ie charge storage, like charging batteries from solar cells over a long term then discharging in the short term. David G3UNA - Original Message - From: "Bill NY9H" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "peter gerba" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Robert Tellefsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 4:18 AM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Nifty little power supply: Gamma Research HPS-1a not too fan or RF noisy at all,,, i HAD to check it out ,,, so i looked it's actually a 5 or 8 amp supply feeding the ultracaps,,, I found the oem switcher in either mouser or digikey as well as the caps gamma did a great job packaging it ,. I also think a thinner ac cord would be in order for my pelican/portable set. and works fine with the k2-100 ssb or cw,, I heard little rf noise, but the antenna was right at the rig, bill ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors
Can anyone identify why some PL259s do not fit some SO239s ? There is a distinct difference in thread. I have never known Ns not to fit properly, but there appear to be 2 types of PL/SO out there. David G3UNA - Original Message - From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Elecraft'" Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 3:32 AM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors While it's true that PL-259 connectors, often called "UHF" connectors, do not show an impedance of exactly 50 ohms, it's important for those who might be lurking here to know that the impedance bump they produce is not important below 100 MHz or so. On equipment where they are commonly used, such as the K2/100 or an ATU, the impedance of the wiring inside the rig to the connector is likely farther from "50 ohms" than the impedance of the connector. These connectors were designed by Amphenol in the 1930's for "UHF" use. Back then "UHF" was anything above 10 meters: 30 MHz. The regulated radio spectrum ended at 300 MHz back then. The PL259's continued to be used in commercial applications up in the 200 and 300 MHz range well into the 1960's, and I've seen them used on commercial equipment up into the 100+ MHz range in recent years. So, in terms of impedance matching, there's no reason to consider the "UHF" connector inferior to any newer types for the HF bands, and even through 6 meters at least. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- They're fine connectors, but I don't see any advantage to using them on your K2. Their most useful feature is that they're constant impedance 50 ohm devices, as are the BNC's used on your K2. The PL-259 series is not 50 ohms. Trivia: There -ARE- 72 ohm Type "N"''s, but they're not common.. There are many devices for which Type N's are an absolute must, such as VHF and UHF power dividers, but a K2 isn't one of these. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
