[Elecraft] Twin Lead feedline
It's been years since I melted 300 ohm twin lead... Can I use it for a 44 foot each side of center doublet at 100 watts out? I can't find any other open wire feedline locally, and I need to get something up in the airI keep on walking into the slinky that runs down my hallway. I'm thinking at 5 watts it will pass...just not sure what will happen at 100 watts. Thanks 73 k3hrn Thom,EIEIO Email, Internet, Electronic Information Officer www.baltimorehon.com/Home of the Baltimore Lexicon www.tlchost.net/hosting/ Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Twin Lead feedline
I have put 300 watts from a single 813 grounded grid amp into a doublet made using 300 ohm twin lead. No problem. de Joe, aa4nn - Original Message - From: Thom LaCosta [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 7:26 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Twin Lead feedline It's been years since I melted 300 ohm twin lead... Can I use it for a 44 foot each side of center doublet at 100 watts out? I can't find any other open wire feedline locally, and I need to get something up in the airI keep on walking into the slinky that runs down my hallway. I'm thinking at 5 watts it will pass...just not sure what will happen at 100 watts. Thanks 73 k3hrn Thom,EIEIO Email, Internet, Electronic Information Officer www.baltimorehon.com/Home of the Baltimore Lexicon www.tlchost.net/hosting/ Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] ESSB- What About Pactor III?
-BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE- Hash: SHA1 Julian G4ILO wrote: Many digimode enthusiasts do get annoyed about PACTOR robot stations. But mostly the digital modes each keep to different areas of the digital sub-band and there is not very much conflict - unless you're using some new mode somebody has just written a program for, in which case you aren't welcome anywhere. :) Excepting contests, there is not usually any trouble finding a clear frequency to operate on in the digital sub-bands. The number of phone users is probably orders of magnitude greater than the number of data users so the potential for trouble if a new wider band sort of phone catches on is far greater. This is true now. The ARRL's petition to our FCC to regulate the HF bands by bandwidth instead of mode would have cut those wide band PactorIII alligators loose on all of SSB portions of the HF bands. Thankfully the yelling and gnashing of teeth was loud enough to give the boys in Newington pause for thought. The comments against were running at about 85% against on the FCC's ECFS comment system. They withdrew the petition. Even within the data sub bands PactorIII is proving to be a QRM generator of biblical proportion. It's nothing to have your ongoing PSK/RTTY/Packet QSO killed by one of these QRM bots. All in the name of doing something on HF, passing email, that is better done at VHF and above for emergency communications, or by other commercial services such as Sail Mail on HF for yachtsmen and RVers. The internet's already been done, cheaper, better, faster than amateur radio will ever be able to do it. - -- R. Kevin Stover, ACØH -BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE- Version: GnuPG v1.4.7 (MingW32) Comment: Using GnuPG with Mozilla - http://enigmail.mozdev.org iD8DBQFGwaYq11jxjloa2wsRAv7vAJ9v1ihebtYZ0pDbfTYOyKp8AW3SfwCdE9Bg L39HwNJv0LT45TN/grQfvZc= =ynJX -END PGP SIGNATURE- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2
I always find a DMM that measures capacitance and inductance very handy to check parts. I have a wavetech that cost about $80.00 about 5 years ago that does that. I did NOT do a parts inventory, I had no patience for one, was missing no parts, but had a few places where I had trouble identifying the part...inductors mostly. The caps I tried to organize in piles on the desk with the values written in pencil on the desk, there are a LOT of caps and a LOT of different valuesa LOT of piles Otherwise, its all soldering (a lighted magnifier is great, staples sells them, along with other places). I had zero real issues when done, but trouble shot the power output circuitry for a while, as its VERY subject to swr in the base radio. Building is incredibly fun, you want to get done and try the rig, but once its done, you miss the building Brett N2DTS -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Huggins Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 12:09 AM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2 OK so I have decided to buy the base K2 kit and build it along with my son; He needs to see a process like this unfold. I have read the various FAQs, tips, etc. I am not new to kit building. We have a good soldering station. If the K2 works out well we will use it on CW for a while and then add enhancements: SSB first then others (perhaps DSP, 160M, 60M-Xvrter, 100Watts).. Are there tools or tips I am missing before I drop the coin? John ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2
Must haves == Good light Magnifying glass Dental pick Negative lock tweezers (big ones do not send parts flying) Good Multi-meter Handy items === Frequency counter - or you can wait till all is complete and use WWV/Spectogram Capacitance meter - not required, but it helped me with identifying parts The rework eliminators are useful, as mentioned. Also some of the Elecraft mini-modules are big help in filling out some of your test equipment for alignment. I have the noise generator and the one for setting the S meter, but I wished I had picked up the dummy load and a couple of others. K2 is a great project. Real straight forward, and great think tank here to ask questions to. Best of luck to you. David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] K4DGW K2 #5982 John Huggins wrote: OK so I have decided to buy the base K2 kit and build it along with my son; He needs to see a process like this unfold. I have read the various FAQs, tips, etc. I am not new to kit building. We have a good soldering station. If the K2 works out well we will use it on CW for a while and then add enhancements: SSB first then others (perhaps DSP, 160M, 60M-Xvrter, 100Watts).. Are there tools or tips I am missing before I drop the coin? John ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2
On Tue, 14 Aug 2007, Brett gazdzinski wrote: The caps I tried to organize in piles on the desk with the values written in pencil on the desk, there are a LOT of caps and a LOT of different valuesa LOT of piles ergo, a nice big, clean table space for all the piles is ideal. If you are more organized, a fishing tackle box or something similar with lot's of little compartments to label also helps. Building is incredibly fun, you want to get done and try the rig, but once its done, you miss the building Thank goodness for the add-ons! :-) Good luck with the build! Will, part way done his K2. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2
Yes, plastic organizer boxes did help. In the craft section at Wal-Mart. Sorted and inventoried parts and put caps, diodes, resistors in one, and misc hardware in the other. Helped out quite a bit. David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] K4DGW K2 #5982 David Wilburn wrote: Must haves == Good light Magnifying glass Dental pick Negative lock tweezers (big ones do not send parts flying) Good Multi-meter Handy items === Frequency counter - or you can wait till all is complete and use WWV/Spectogram Capacitance meter - not required, but it helped me with identifying parts The rework eliminators are useful, as mentioned. Also some of the Elecraft mini-modules are big help in filling out some of your test equipment for alignment. I have the noise generator and the one for setting the S meter, but I wished I had picked up the dummy load and a couple of others. K2 is a great project. Real straight forward, and great think tank here to ask questions to. Best of luck to you. David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] K4DGW K2 #5982 John Huggins wrote: OK so I have decided to buy the base K2 kit and build it along with my son; He needs to see a process like this unfold. I have read the various FAQs, tips, etc. I am not new to kit building. We have a good soldering station. If the K2 works out well we will use it on CW for a while and then add enhancements: SSB first then others (perhaps DSP, 160M, 60M-Xvrter, 100Watts).. Are there tools or tips I am missing before I drop the coin? John ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2
John, Congratulations on your decision. Equip yourself with a set of flush cutters if you don't already have them - while diagonal cutters will be OK for the K2, flush cutters are required in a few areas of the KPA100 and several other options - overall they make a neater finished product. If your eyes require it, get a god magnifier. You will likely need at least a magnifying glass to read the markings on the small capacitors - I use a small lighted handheld magnifier for that, but I do not like using a magnifier for soldering - I am fortunate that my eyes will allow that, yours may prove otherwise. A good #1 Phillips screwdriver, a small flat bladed screwdriver and small long nose pliers are good things to have. There are many other 'helper' tools, but most of my building is done with just the soldering station, a couple screwdrivers, my flush cutters and small longnose pliers. a hemostat type clamp is handy for securing small objects (like crimp pins) while they are being soldered. I suggest that you get an anti-static mat and a wrist strap if you do not have one already. ESD is a 'sneaky' thing that can reduce the useful life of active solid state components. Above all, have fun, use what works best for you, and don't stress about the rest - each of us has our own way of working, and while we can say what works for us, you will have to develop your own techniques - many folks really like board holders, but I find them cumbersome. 73, Don W3FPR John Huggins wrote: OK so I have decided to buy the base K2 kit and build it along with my son; He needs to see a process like this unfold. I have read the various FAQs, tips, etc. I am not new to kit building. We have a good soldering station. If the K2 works out well we will use it on CW for a while and then add enhancements: SSB first then others (perhaps DSP, 160M, 60M-Xvrter, 100Watts).. Are there tools or tips I am missing before I drop the coin? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2
Rework Eliminators - They're great provided you are willing to spend the time to make sure they get installed right. They represent a departure from the normal build process and if you mess things up, then debugging may be tougher. I went with them, and was careful. I had only one bad solder joint and the rig worked just fine. I love my rework eliminators as they've allowed me to plug and unplug various options at will. Prewound toroids. I like building but winding toroids is something I chose to not do. I went with prewound toroids on all my Elecraft kits and highly recommend them. They are done in a very professional way. Tools I found useful: - Magnifying ring light - Circuit board vise - anti-static mat grounded to the outlet ground screw. I did not do an inventory ... until I got to the caps. There are a lot of them and they're easy to confuse. I spread them all out and put them in piles. Getting them all out helped me separate the small differences and correctly ID the various types. I arranged the piles so I could easily find the part I needed. - Keith N1AS - - K2 5411.ssb.100 - -Original Message- Are there tools or tips I am missing before I drop the coin? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2
Just a comment here - keep the ICs and transistors in their black foam (or pink plastic bags) ESD safe holders. Remember that many plastics can build a static charge. I suggest that you ignore any thoughts about sticking the components into styrofoam - that does generate static. As another personal taste note, I find that digging into a cup-like or box-like container to extract parts is a pain - I line up leaded parts by value and stick their leads into the edge of corrugated cardboard. A USPS Priority Mail box cut in half makes 2 good trays for holding the hardware parts and lots of cut corrugated edges to stick the parts into. Old time Heathkit builders will recognize this method. 73, Don W3FPR David Wilburn wrote: Yes, plastic organizer boxes did help. In the craft section at Wal-Mart. Sorted and inventoried parts and put caps, diodes, resistors in one, and misc hardware in the other. Helped out quite a bit. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2
John, There's lots of good advice here - I used a small pocket magnifier to read the markings on some of the components. At some point I bought a magnifying lamp from the local office supply store - it worked fine for reading component values and for lighting the work, but the range of the magnifier was much to close to actually build the K2 under it. These lamps are intended for reading, so they focus quite close to the page. If you need a magnifying lamp for building, I understand that you can order lamps with a longer range magnifier that focus further away from the circuit board. Check the archives as this subject has been discussed in the past. My approach to managing components is to stick all components of the same type and value on a strip on masking tape wrapped over the end of the leads, and then write the value on the tape. As I need a component, I just pull it out of the tape. Good luck. Bob W1SRB -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Robie Elms Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 12:45 AM To: John Huggins; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [SPAM?] Re: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2 John, I suggest that you obtain a good lamp with a magnifying glass attached. Mine has a round florescent lamp that fits around the lens. This provides plenty of light and the magnification really improves you productivity. I am not saying that the K2 is too small - just that time has taken a toll on my eyes!! Another item that may help is a vice to hold the circuit boards while you are installing components and soldering. I do not consider this as important as the magnifying lamp. Robie - AJ4F K2 s/n 6165 - Original Message - From: John Huggins [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 11:08 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2 OK so I have decided to buy the base K2 kit and build it along with my son; He needs to see a process like this unfold. I have read the various FAQs, tips, etc. I am not new to kit building. We have a good soldering station. If the K2 works out well we will use it on CW for a while and then add enhancements: SSB first then others (perhaps DSP, 160M, 60M-Xvrter, 100Watts).. Are there tools or tips I am missing before I drop the coin? John ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2
Tools I found useful: - Magnifying ring light I find an Optivisor works much better for me. A ring light magnifier gives me a headache, besides being bulky and hard on whatever it is clamped to... 73, Lyle KK7P ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2
John, Everyone has great ideas. Here are mine. I like the visor as well. I got one for five bucks. Very good to have. I also use ice cube trays (Plastic) for a parts bin. Sometimes things do not fit will, but it does work quite well. You can use muffin tins as well, but I would not put ICs or transistors in the muffin tin. You can get ice cube trays at the Dollar General Storeor other small plastic containers as well. Enjoyit is a fun time Lee - K0WA In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you don't have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it. If you can't find any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense. Is Common Sense divine? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Tue, 14 Aug 2007, Brett gazdzinski wrote: The caps I tried to organize in piles on the desk with the values written in pencil on the desk, there are a LOT of caps and a LOT of different valuesa LOT of piles ergo, a nice big, clean table space for all the piles is ideal. If you are more organized, a fishing tackle box or something similar with lot's of little compartments to label also helps. I found Ice Cube Trays to be the best way to organize the partstook me four of them. You'll definitely need to sort your caps out by numbers. I also made a tilting vise by using those pistol grip expanding jaw clamps used in woodworking, mounting it on a pedestal (the one I found came out of a sporting goods store and is for mounting on the edge of a boat to hold a fishing rod...that in turn was mounted to a piece of board...and I had a perfect tilting vise for about 20 bucks total. At 54, I second the round magnifying light...mine was from Office Depot for about 35 bucks...lots of other places had them for 90+and, I found using that magnifying light/lamp it worked as a solder-smoke deflector so it wasn't drifting directly into my face as I worked. David King ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2
Congratulations on your decision to build a K2 with your son. I concur with the advice you are getting about having good lighting, ESD protection, vice, etc. If you don't already have them, I think a great way to introduce your son into the kit building process would be to have him build the XG2 signal generator and the DL-1 dummy load before starting on the K2. These are easy and fast kits and the end result will be very helpful as you test and align your new K2. Have fun! 73 ... Craig AC0DS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2
At 08:28 08/14/2007, Don Wilhelm wrote: As another personal taste note, I find that digging into a cup-like or box-like container to extract parts is a pain - I line up leaded parts by value and stick their leads into the edge of corrugated cardboard. A USPS Priority Mail box cut in half makes 2 good trays for holding the hardware parts and lots of cut corrugated edges to stick the parts into. Old time Heathkit builders will recognize this method. For an illustration of what Don's referring to, I direct your attention to: http://www.n0ss.net/index_general.html ... about 2/3 of the way down the page, just below the photo of the Hakko 936 Soldering Station. A setup like this makes it very easy to arrange leaded components for easy sorting and selection. 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2
John When the K2 is finished and it's time for alignment, many of us use a noise generator to feed the receiver, the Spectrogram audio spectrum analyzer program to set the filters up for the best results, and an oscilloscope to display the resulting filter passbands. I believe the free version of Spectrogram is still available on N0SS' web page. There are several noise generator kits around, not very complicated at all. I believe Elecraft also has one. It would be an easy kit for your son to knock out along the way. Good luck and 73 Bob N6WG - Original Message - From: John Huggins [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 9:08 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2 OK so I have decided to buy the base K2 kit and build it along with my son; He needs to see a process like this unfold. I have read the various FAQs, tips, etc. I am not new to kit building. We have a good soldering station. If the K2 works out well we will use it on CW for a while and then add enhancements: SSB first then others (perhaps DSP, 160M, 60M-Xvrter, 100Watts).. Are there tools or tips I am missing before I drop the coin? John ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Twin Lead feedline
Thom There are various grades of 300 ohm twinlead. Some are very cheap and have pretty skimpy conductors. Some are good quality. There is/was at least one version that was suitable for transmitting (power level not stated that I can recall). If you have some of the good quality stuff, you can probably do 100w just fine. I'd watch out for the skimpy stuff, though. Good luck and 73 Bob N6WG - Original Message - From: Thom LaCosta [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 4:26 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Twin Lead feedline It's been years since I melted 300 ohm twin lead... Can I use it for a 44 foot each side of center doublet at 100 watts out? I can't find any other open wire feedline locally, and I need to get something up in the airI keep on walking into the slinky that runs down my hallway. I'm thinking at 5 watts it will pass...just not sure what will happen at 100 watts. Thanks 73 k3hrn Thom,EIEIO Email, Internet, Electronic Information Officer www.baltimorehon.com/Home of the Baltimore Lexicon www.tlchost.net/hosting/ Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2
Perhaps it deserves saying the obvious: DO NOT USE FOAM CONTAINERS FOR ELECTRONIC PARTS!! (Unless, perhaps, you're working with vacuum tubes G) Expanded foam in any form is a wonderful static generator. It doesn't take enough static to see or feel a spark to destroy parts, only enough to exceed the part's operating voltages (especially insulation breakdown voltage). That is often well below that at which a human is even aware there is a static charge present. I suppose one might argue that keeping the leads of sensitive parts stuck in the conductive foam protects them, but I tend to be conservative. It's bad enough troubleshooting to find a defective part when power is first applied, but static-damaged parts sometimes still work, somewhat, so the rig just doesn't meet normal specs and the operator may be completely unaware of it. And then the part may fail prematurely at some later date (just as you're calling that rare DX you need or about to start a contest session). I, too, like the Optivisor. I like that it's not coupled to my light source and it's very lightweight and portable. I went for the name brand: I've too often found defective lenses in cheap magnifiers. It's a chance one takes buying cheap: sometimes it's fine, sometimes not, and sometimes you don't know until you can compare the expensive product side-by-side with the cheap. (Just like comparing your completed K2 with most of the other HF rigs out there G). Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Twin Lead feedline
I have been using TruValue twin lead at $14/100 feet for the past 4 years on both my G5RV and my 40 meter loop. Works just fine. Best bargain around. Since I only need 40 feet on either antenna, if it goes bad, I just use the other half of what is left with some to spare. Jozef WB2MIC PS. The antenna wire is leftover electric fence wire now over 22 years old. Cost per antenna per year is quite low. :) Robert Tellefsen wrote: Thom There are various grades of 300 ohm twinlead. Some are very cheap and have pretty skimpy conductors. Some are good quality. There is/was at least one version that was suitable for transmitting (power level not stated that I can recall). If you have some of the good quality stuff, you can probably do 100w just fine. I'd watch out for the skimpy stuff, though. Good luck and 73 Bob N6WG - Original Message - From: Thom LaCosta [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 4:26 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Twin Lead feedline It's been years since I melted 300 ohm twin lead... Can I use it for a 44 foot each side of center doublet at 100 watts out? I can't find any other open wire feedline locally, and I need to get something up in the airI keep on walking into the slinky that runs down my hallway. I'm thinking at 5 watts it will pass...just not sure what will happen at 100 watts. Thanks 73 k3hrn Thom,EIEIO Email, Internet, Electronic Information Officer www.baltimorehon.com/Home of the Baltimore Lexicon www.tlchost.net/hosting/ Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] operating question about K2 pre-amp/attenuator
Hi All, My operating experience is fairly limited, so I have a question about operating the K2. What circumstances would cause one to turn off the pre-amp? And related, what circumstances would cause one to turn on the attenuator? Even my old FT-101 had an attenuator to switch in, but I never came across a situation where I thought I'd want to. 73, Matthew AE6UP Sick sense of humor? Visit Yahoo! TV's Comedy with an Edge to see what's on, when. http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/222 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] operating question about K2 pre-amp/attenuator
In a nutshell, band conditions. At times, on 80 or 40m, signals and noise will be plenty strong. So then I switch in the attenuator. The preamp is mainly for use on 20m and up, especially if you are using just wire antennas without the gain of a beam. If you have a good beam, and signals are strong enough for operation without the preamp, by all means, turn it off. In contest conditions, the preamp increases the problems of QRM from strong nearby stations. Also, on 80 and 40, the attenuator can help with keeping the KW stations from drowning out the weaker stations that you might be working. Good luck and 73 Bob N6WG - Original Message - From: Matthew Denson [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 9:38 AM Subject: [Elecraft] operating question about K2 pre-amp/attenuator Hi All, My operating experience is fairly limited, so I have a question about operating the K2. What circumstances would cause one to turn off the pre-amp? And related, what circumstances would cause one to turn on the attenuator? Even my old FT-101 had an attenuator to switch in, but I never came across a situation where I thought I'd want to. 73, Matthew AE6UP Sick sense of humor? Visit Yahoo! TV's Comedy with an Edge to see what's on, when. http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/222 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] operating question about K2 pre-amp/attenuator
Hi, Matthew! The less gain you have before signals reach the I.F. filters, the greater range of signals your rig can handle without overloading. Very strong signals outside the I.F. bandpass can cause many problems if they are strong enough to drive one of the stages into non-linear operation. The result may be what sounds like signals that are not signals at all (so called birdies), excessive background QRN and other noises that may sound like someone's signal is splattering across the band and, in really extreme situations, desensing of the receiver (all signals are reduced in strength). However, too little gain ahead of the I.F. filters may mean that the weakest signals aren't strong enough to be heard above the internal background noise created in the receiver, so a balance between some gain and not too much gain in the front end (part of the receiver before the I.F. filters) is required. Normally, the preamp would be used only on the higher frequency bands (above 10 or 15 MHz) where the band QRN is very low and you need the gain to be sure weak signals are stronger than the internally-generated noise. That depends on the background QRN at your location and the antenna you're using. A simple way to see if you have enough front end gain is to set your K2 to the narrowest I.F. filter setting you'll use, tune to a spot in the band where you cannot hear any signals, just the background QRN, and disconnect your antenna. If the noise level drops significantly, your ability to hear weak signals is limited by band QRN and not the receiver gain. If the noise level drops when you disconnect the antenna with the pre-amp off or the attenuator on, those settings will provide maximum protection from overload without compromising your ability to hear weak signals. Indeed, by avoiding overload and the apparent band noise that can cause, you may hear weaker signals with the pre-amp off and the attenuator turned on than you would otherwise. The K2 has excellent dynamic range characteristics, so you can use your preamp much of the time without serious side effects, if you wish, but it's not the best operating practice. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Hi All, My operating experience is fairly limited, so I have a question about operating the K2. What circumstances would cause one to turn off the pre-amp? And related, what circumstances would cause one to turn on the attenuator? Even my old FT-101 had an attenuator to switch in, but I never came across a situation where I thought I'd want to. 73, Matthew AE6UP ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2
Egg cartons for trays de Joe, aa4nn You can get ice cube trays at the Dollar General Storeor other small plastic containers as well. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2
John, My son is 14. He has gone with me to help setup field day. He currently has the furthest from home contact. I am building my second K2 (K2/100 when done). I bought the DL1 and XG2 from what I learned from the first K2. I supervised my son as he built the mini-modules. He saw the large number of parts in the K2 and got scared. As yet he has not volunteered to help with the radio. Sorting the caps into a container with compartments is necessary. Small solder less than .020 very good idea. Rework eliminators are a good idea especially if you will add options one at a time. They are also good if you need to remove an option for troubleshooting. Removing an option usually disables the radio in some way requiring reinstalling parts to make the radio work. I did not do the eliminators and wish I had. Good luck and happy building Richard Kent WD8AJG K2 5296 and 1/3 of 5996 -Original Message- OK so I have decided to buy the base K2 kit and build it along with my son; He needs to see a process like this unfold. I have read the various FAQs, tips, etc. I am not new to kit building. We have a good soldering station. If the K2 works out well we will use it on CW for a while and then add enhancements: SSB first then others (perhaps DSP, 160M, 60M-Xvrter, 100Watts).. Are there tools or tips I am missing before I drop the coin? John ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2
On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 09:26:19 -0500, Craig Rairdin wrote: If your eyes require it, get a god magnifier. God magnifiers are also good for spotting the devil, who is said to be in the details. Either way a good god magnifier is worth the investment. Note that one of the holiness prayers of the Jewish liturgy starts with Magnified and sanctified is the great name. I guess magnification is a universal requirement. ggg -- 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] operating question about K2 pre-amp/attenuator
Matt asking questions is a good thing. 2 great answers already posted. here is the 'punch line': for 80, 40 and 30m i suggest you turn the preamp off. (to confirm, with your antenna matched to the rig - tune in a weak signal and verify that preamp makes no difference here in detecting the signal, and receiver will have more dynamic range) for 20m and up - turn the preamp on, and leave it unless you get obvious 'thumping' from nearby large signals. (up here atmospheric noise is less so we benefit from the preamp). you may rarely need to change these settings - but be aware of the opportunity. enjoy your rig! 73, curt --- Matthew Denson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi All, My operating experience is fairly limited, so I have a question about operating the K2. What circumstances would cause one to turn off the pre-amp? And related, what circumstances would cause one to turn on the attenuator? Even my old FT-101 had an attenuator to switch in, but I never came across a situation where I thought I'd want to. 73, Matthew AE6UP Sick sense of humor? Visit Yahoo! TV's Comedy with an Edge to see what's on, when. http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/222 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com Got a little couch potato? Check out fun summer activities for kids. http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mailp=summer+activities+for+kidscs=bz ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Twin Lead feedline
I've just re-read your question. So, the twin lead is not for the feeder, it's for the arms of the doublet, or possibly both. I presume to widen the frequency response. There are some interesting ideas for using ribbon as antennas. If it's the pale pink variety, the only thing I would advise is to make sure you water-proof the cut ends because it will drink water by capillary action and rapidly rot the copper inside. This happened to me many years ago. If it's the black ladder line, I would say it is quite heavy compared to single wires. Otherwise I see no particular problems. David G3UNA - Original Message - From: Jozef Hand-Boniakowski [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Robert Tellefsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 5:02 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Twin Lead feedline I have been using TruValue twin lead at $14/100 feet for the past 4 years on both my G5RV and my 40 meter loop. Works just fine. Best bargain around. Since I only need 40 feet on either antenna, if it goes bad, I just use the other half of what is left with some to spare. Jozef WB2MIC PS. The antenna wire is leftover electric fence wire now over 22 years old. Cost per antenna per year is quite low. :) Robert Tellefsen wrote: Thom There are various grades of 300 ohm twinlead. Some are very cheap and have pretty skimpy conductors. Some are good quality. There is/was at least one version that was suitable for transmitting (power level not stated that I can recall). If you have some of the good quality stuff, you can probably do 100w just fine. I'd watch out for the skimpy stuff, though. Good luck and 73 Bob N6WG - Original Message - From: Thom LaCosta [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 4:26 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Twin Lead feedline It's been years since I melted 300 ohm twin lead... Can I use it for a 44 foot each side of center doublet at 100 watts out? I can't find any other open wire feedline locally, and I need to get something up in the airI keep on walking into the slinky that runs down my hallway. I'm thinking at 5 watts it will pass...just not sure what will happen at 100 watts. Thanks 73 k3hrn Thom,EIEIO Email, Internet, Electronic Information Officer www.baltimorehon.com/Home of the Baltimore Lexicon www.tlchost.net/hosting/ Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2
Thank you all for the comments. A rough summary includes: - Think ESD for the parts (no worries there... I am the ESD promoter at our electronics lab at work) - No parts in non ESD foam - No parts in cardboard, etc. - Small anti-static mat with wrist straps, etc. - Keep active parts in their black ESD foam - Seriously consider the re-work eliminators and other nifty things from http://www.unpcbs.com/ - Consider a good Cap/Inductance meter - Seriously consider using flush cutting snips - Certainly use a thermo controlled soldering iron with good assortment of tips - Use small diameter solder - Get a new #1 Phillips screwdriver - Seriously consider an illuminated magnifier or, perhaps, a mag. visor - On the same topic, have good lighting - Reference the example toroid images available from the K2 community - Use headers where possible - Dental pick and other assorted fiddling tools - Reserve a good amount of table space for the project - Consider pre-wound toroids - When inventorying parts, leave the resistors in their tape - Seriously consider starting with the XG2 and DL-1 dummy load to spin up on soldering skills - Seriously consider making the XG2 because it will be handy during the K2 build Excellent tips. Thank you all. The tip I am acting on first is the purchase and building of the XG2 as I think it is a wonderful plan to start small and work up. One of the main purposes is to ensure the 12 year old acquires some understanding of that stuff in the box is not magic. Anything I can do to notch up the technical aptitude of a future tax payer should hopefully yield benefits later. Thanks again all... onward... John KX4O http://www.cosjwt.com/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2
I buolt a cute circuit with a 2n7000 from an idea I saw at the Maker Faire.. It is an E field probe: you can light up (or extinguish, depending on your charge polarity) an LED with the proximity of your finger from half a foot. It can be very instructive in seeing where you have static, and how far away the 2N7000 can tell, and (eventually) what will and won't blow it. I put a link to this, and a copy of Wayne N6KR's note on handling the 2N7000, onto Wikipedia. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2N7000 Leigh/WA5ZNU On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 8:57 am, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: Perhaps it deserves saying the obvious: DO NOT USE FOAM CONTAINERS FOR ELECTRONIC PARTS!! (Unless, perhaps, you're working with vacuum tubes G) Expanded foam in any form is a wonderful static generator. It doesn't take enough static to see or feel a spark to destroy parts, only enough to exceed the part's operating voltages (especially insulation breakdown voltage). That is often well below that at which a human is even aware there is a static charge present. I suppose one might argue that keeping the leads of sensitive parts stuck in the conductive foam protects them, but I tend to be conservative. It's bad enough troubleshooting to find a defective part when power is first applied, but static-damaged parts sometimes still work, somewhat, so the rig just doesn't meet normal specs and the operator may be completely unaware of it. And then the part may fail prematurely at some later date (just as you're calling that rare DX you need or about to start a contest session). ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] 14.03 MHz Continuous Tone/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
I have been hearing this for many days in row now and doing a Google search on it I found some disturbing info. It seems that this freq. is being used for telephone equipment. Intel among others has applied for patents using this frequency. Does anyone know what the signal I am hearing on 14.030 MHz actually is? Thanks, Jack, AE6GC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 14.03 MHz Continuous Tone/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Hi Jack, In my shack, the carrier on 14.030 is from my Linksys Wireless router. 73, ed - k9ew ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] 14.03 MHz Continuous Tone/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
In my shack, the carrier on 14.030 is from my Linksys Wireless router. Same here, but from a NetGear router. Fortunately very weak and hasn't prevented any QSOs yet that I know about. ... Craig AC0DS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] 14.03 MHz Continuous Tone
Ed, I also have a Linksys router but it is unplugged! I guess I'll have to do a little RDF. Several of my neighbors have networks! If they are interfering with an amatuer frequency could I ask them to cease and desist? This could turn into an ugly situation! I hope that something else is going on and that it is benign or at least temporary!! Thanks, Jack AE6GC, *** Hi Jack, In my shack, the carrier on 14.030 is from my Linksys Wireless router. 73, ed - k9ew ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 14.03 MHz Continuous Tone/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Do they have the license to emit this frequency, or just use it internally inside some equipment? -- Alan, wb6zqz -- Original message -- From: Jack Regan [EMAIL PROTECTED] I have been hearing this for many days in row now and doing a Google search on it I found some disturbing info. It seems that this freq. is being used for telephone equipment. Intel among others has applied for patents using this frequency. Does anyone know what the signal I am hearing on 14.030 MHz actually is? Thanks, Jack, AE6GC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 14.03 MHz Continuous Tone
On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 15:09:10 -0700 (PDT), Jack Regan wrote: I also have a Linksys router but it is unplugged! I guess I'll have to do a little RDF. Several of my neighbors have networks! If they are interfering with an amatuer frequency could I ask them to cease and desist? You could always ask them to make a brief on-off test, but that takes lots of diplomacy. Accusing then of interference and demanding that they stop is guaranteed to turn the situation very ugly. This could turn into an ugly situation! Very rapidly unless there's cooperation on both sides. This is a typical rfi problem from consumer gear, and rarely does the user (your neighbor) have the technical savvy to understand why and how it happens and that they are responsible when push comes to shove. Remember that in the first decade of the 21st Century the use of a personal wireless device of any type has escalated into a civil right. ggg If you find a router that doesn't cause this sort of rfi, offer to replace theirs at your own expense. Although you are not obligated to do so, it may be the most efficient and peaceful way to get rid of the offending signal. Then get the ARRL Labs to get on the manufacturer's case about it. Even though the offending equipment is certified (by the manufacturer) to meet FCC rfi specs, those specs are so loose as to allow lots of signal to still be radiated. -- 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 ARRL Volunteer Counsel -- Philip M. Kane P.E. / Esq VP - General Counsel Engineering Manager C.S.I. Telecommunications Consulting Engineers San Francisco, CA - Beaverton, OR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 14.03 MHz Continuous Tone/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 23:48:57 +0100, David Cutter wrote: This comes under the category unintentional radiator and there are legal limits that must be met. One problem I can see is that the equipment could be tested and approved without wiring it into a system and it might meet the requirements, but when fitted with all the accessories it may not, but these may be deemed to be in your domain not the manufacturer's (I'm guessing and supposing). It is well known to us who work in this field that the FCC noise limits for computing equipment are so loose that even if the equipment - with or without the wiring - meets the specs, there is still sufficient signal radiated to cause harmful interference. The law does require that the operator of the offending equipment cease operation if harmful interference is being caused, but this is a very delicate situation because in general the operator of the equipment does not have the technical savvy to understand why and how interference is being caused. If not handled correctly, the problem then escalates from a technical problem to a legal confrontation, which is never pleasant. -- 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 ARRL Volunteer Counsel -- Philip M. Kane P.E. / Esq VP - General Counsel Engineering Manager C.S.I. Telecommunications Consulting Engineers San Francisco, CA - Beaverton, OR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] 14.03 MHz Continuous Tone/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Hi Group, I have this problem too. I fixed a lot of the initial interference (mostly hash) by going from wired to wireless, but I still have these CW signals on several bands. I can't figure out how to switch my gear to limit it to 10 mB. I'm using a D-Link wireless G airport/access point. Any help? Thanks, Tom, klj3d -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Leigh L Klotz, Jr. Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 6:25 PM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 14.03 MHz Continuous Tone/[EMAIL PROTECTED] Also 21.060. It is from 100 megabit ethernwt devices. Switch your shack to 10 megabit ethernet and it will be only your neighbors QRP transmitters with end-fed long wire antennas (CAT5 wiring) that you hear. Leigh/WA5ZNU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] 14.03 MHz Continuous Tone/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
I have two 100 megabit switches within six feet of the radio, and can barely hear the spur on 14.030, so experience varies. Two spurs at 21.055 are below s0 with preamp #2 on. Wonder where the gigabit spurs are, that may be another solution, though gig switches are 100 compatible as well.. -- Alan, wb6zqz At 04:40 PM 8/14/2007, KJ3D wrote: Hi Group, I have this problem too. I fixed a lot of the initial interference (mostly hash) by going from wired to wireless, but I still have these CW signals on several bands. I can't figure out how to switch my gear to limit it to 10 mB. I'm using a D-Link wireless G airport/access point. Any help? Thanks, Tom, klj3d -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Leigh L Klotz, Jr. Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 6:25 PM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 14.03 MHz Continuous Tone/[EMAIL PROTECTED] Also 21.060. It is from 100 megabit ethernwt devices. Switch your shack to 10 megabit ethernet and it will be only your neighbors QRP transmitters with end-fed long wire antennas (CAT5 wiring) that you hear. Leigh/WA5ZNU _ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 14.03 MHz Continuous Tone/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 15:25:06 -0700, Leigh L Klotz, Jr. wrote: Also 21.060. It is from 100 megabit ethernwt devices. Switch your shack to 10 megabit ethernet and it will be only your neighbors QRP transmitters with end-fed long wire antennas (CAT5 wiring) that you hear. Not that easy. If your 100MBit system is connected to a 10 MBit device (like most Internet modems), it will carry that traffic as 10 MBit traffic, and you'll hear the birdies. See my RFI tutorial for more details and fixes. http://audiosystemsgroup.com/RFI-Ham.pdf I have two 100 megabit switches within six feet of the radio, and can barely hear the spur on 14.030, so experience varies. No, experience doesn't vary, it has NOTHING to do with proximity to your radio. What matters is proxmity to your ANTENNA, the degree to which that RF trash is suppressed by the router, and the ANTENNAS connected to the router (the Ethernet cables and the power cable)! 73, Jim Brown K9YC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
