Re: [Elecraft] K3: dBV meter

2008-11-15 Thread Jan Erik Holm

I think the S-meter issue has been muted, we
better give it a rest for a while.

/ Jim SM2EKM
--
S Sacco wrote:

The same could be said for an S-meter reading, no?




On Fri, Nov 14, 2008 at 12:12 AM, Jan Erik Holm [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


S Sacco wrote:


For testing, the K3 has the very excellent feature whereby it can
measure the receive voltage.  That would be an FB way to compare
signals.

No it would not.The dBV meter is only useful on a constant and
steady carrier.

/ Jim SM2EKM




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 S-meters, db and noise

2008-11-15 Thread Jan Erik Holm

Oh I hope I can get a S9 from you also if my signals makes
it all the way to the USA.
Look for me in the CQWW, if good propagation I might be single
band 80m otherwise I´ll be moving around the bands, then you
will work another K3.

73 Jim SM2EKM

Jeff Wandling W7BRS wrote:


I can't take it anymore, I'm putting a strip of electrical tape over the 
upper left patch of the LCD.   I can no longer bear to look.   Everyone 
gets S9!



-jeff




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[Elecraft] K3: Output power on PSK31 and AFSK

2008-11-15 Thread Jerry T. Dowell
I am running beta 2.63/1.95 firmware. Although power output is normal in CW,
USB and LSB modes (setting SSB to operate with several bars of ALC), I can
only get about 10-20W out on PSK31 and 50-60W out on AFSK before ALC kicks
in. This is the case whether I use LINE IN or FP/RP MIC connections for the
input. It seems to me that I was able to comfortably get at least 50W out in
these modes when I first tried them several months ago, although I am not
sure of that. The low power also occurs if I use USB instead of DATA A for
the digital signals.

Has anyone else run into this problem? Am I forgetting something?

Jerry  AI6L

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[Elecraft] Operating split with KRX3

2008-11-15 Thread W7TEA

I had Elecraft install my KRX3 and KXV3 and all seems to be operating well in
as much as I've tested.
One thing I do notice though is that the main rx audio seems to drop
significantly in the left headphone channel when I turn on the sub rx. 
After continuing to play around, it appears there is not a real decrease--at
least not a significant one--but a perceived decrease because I'm hearing in
one ear only.  (Yes, my left ear hears as well as my right.)  I can crank up
the main rx AF but am thinking the basic Orion approach with the main rx in
both ears and the sub rx in the right ear has advantages.  

Gary W7TEA
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Re: [Elecraft] Operating split with KRX3

2008-11-15 Thread Barry N1EU



W7TEA wrote:
 
  I can crank up the main rx AF but am thinking the basic Orion approach
 with the main rx in both ears and the sub rx in the right ear has
 advantages.  
 
Gary, that was your basic Orion approach, not necessarily THE basic Orion
approach.  The Orion allows you to select main/sub/both individually for L
and R channels.  Even so, I always used main-L sub-R with my Orion, so
there's no difference for me with the K3.  I understand your desire to
customize the K3's audio routing and I suspect that might be a future K3
enhancement.

73,
Barry N1EU

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[Elecraft] help configuring the sub receiver

2008-11-15 Thread Bruce McLaughlin
A couple of days ago I received my K-3 back from Elecraft after having the
sub receiver and a few other accessories installed.  Unfortunately, the sub
receiver does not appear to work. I'm sure it's something dumb that I am
overlooking in configuring it.

Basically, I hear no signals.  I do hear what appears to be band noise but
nothing else.  This is on 40 meters during the daytime.  I have the
configuration set to what I believe is the atu unit.  I have only one
antenna which is connected to the main antenna 1 connector.  The sub
receiver sounds as though it has no antenna connected to it.  The other
choice available on the configuration menu appears to be to connect the sub
receiver to the BNC connector which appears to be an auxiliary antenna input
which I do not want to use since nothing is connected there.  I have both
the AF and RF gain controls for the sub receiver turned up full.

Can anyone suggest what I may be doing wrong?  I want to use the sub
receiver so that is connected to the same antenna as the main receiver and
transmitter, both of which run through the ATU.  I tuned the sub receiver to
the same frequency as the main receiver which had a very strong sideband
signal and should have been clearly audible by the sub receiver but there
was absolutely nothing other than some background hiss.  I will appreciate
any suggestions.

Bruce-W8FU

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Re: [Elecraft] Operating split with KRX3

2008-11-15 Thread W7TEA

True enough Barry--good point.

The K3 is such a fabulous rig.  For my simple operation, it is very hard to
find nits to pick!

73, Gary W7TEA


Barry N1EU wrote:
 
 
 
 Gary, that was your basic Orion approach, not necessarily THE basic Orion
 approach.  The Orion allows you to select main/sub/both individually for L
 and R channels.  Even so, I always used main-L sub-R with my Orion, so
 there's no difference for me with the K3.  I understand your desire to
 customize the K3's audio routing and I suspect that might be a future K3
 enhancement.
 
 73,
 Barry N1EU
 
 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Output power on PSK31 and AFSK

2008-11-15 Thread Richard Ferch
Hi Jerry,

The setup for the K3 in PSK31 is quite different from the way you set up
most other radios. See
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Transmit-IMD-td466326.html#a466329 for an
explanation. There was a discussion about this just over a month ago on this
reflector, as a result of which I personally changed my practices
considerably from what I had been doing before with another radio.

As I understand it, the first 5 bars on the K3's ALC meter are not really
ALC readings, at least not in the same sense they are on other radios.
Provided your power control is set properly, you can have 5 bars reading on
the ALC meter without any significant increase in IMD (as measured at my
station with a PSKmeter in passive measurement mode). It appears as if the
first 5 bars on the ALC meter are really just audio level readings (like a
VU meter), and it's only after that point that the ALC actually kicks in.
Even after the K3's ALC kicks in at 5 bars, it does not seem to introduce
non-linearity, which is a drastic change from how many other radios behave.

The appropriate way to set up for PSK31 appears to be the following:

First, set the power control to the desired power setting. For PSK modes,
I'd suggest making sure it is no higher than 50 watts. I believe this may
actually be the most critical setting. If your power is set higher than 50
watts average, then if your Line In level is high enough so that your
average power can exceed 50 watts, you could have instantaneous peaks that
exceed 100 watts. If these instantaneous peaks go into clipping, you will
have IMD regardless of the ALC meter reading. By setting the requested power
to 50 watts or less (5 watts if you don't have a KPA3), you prevent the
signal from going into clipping on instantaneous peaks.

Next, adjust the Line In level with the Mic gain control until you get four
to five solid bars on the ALC meter. This should allow you to get your
average power on PSK31 up close to the desired power setting without IMD.

Actually, in my experiments I could push the Line In setting higher without
any apparent ill effects, but without increasing power either. There doesn't
seem to be any point to doing this, though.

As for AFSK RTTY, that is not sensitive to non-linearity - it's like CW. You
can quite happily run AFSK RTTY at 100 watts power with 5 bars showing on
the ALC meter and still have a clean RTTY signal.

I have my digital mode software set up to switch the K3 automatically into
DATA A mode with a power setting of 50 watts for PSK31, and to AFSK A mode
with a power setting of 100 watts for RTTY. My sound card volume control is
set low enough to avoid non-linearity in the sound card, and the Line In
setting is set just high enough to reach 5 bars on the K3's ALC meter (LINE
8 in my case). So far that seems to be working just fine.

The biggest limitation may well be heat dissipation. I often operate with
the PA temperature display showing in the VFO B readout. For short
contest-style overs in RTTY, the finals hardly even get warm, but for longer
overs such as ragchews in PSK31, they heat up quite a bit even at 50 watts,
and the fans seem to work a lot harder than they do in CW.

One peculiarity I notice is that while I am transmitting, the temperature
reading seems to be lower than during receive. I suspect that this may be
due to the drop in supply voltage at higher current draws (even with a
stiffly regulated power supply, resistance in the supply cable will result
in a drop in voltage at the radio). Anyway, the net result is that in RTTY
the fans may be on while the radio is receiving, then turn off when the
radio goes into transmit, only to come back on again as soon as the
transmission ends(!)

My 2c worth.

73,
Rich VE3KI
K3 #1595



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[Elecraft] Reminder - UK Elecraft net Sundays 1000 local, 3630 KHz

2008-11-15 Thread Dave G4AON
The frequency as always is plus or minus the QRM. Note the later start 
time of 1000 hours to try and minimise European QRM.


73 Dave, G4AON
K3/100, Acom 1000, dipole
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Output power on PSK31 and AFSK

2008-11-15 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jerry,

I am confused about your saying before ALC kicks in, and it makes me 
wonder if you are using enough audio gain.


The latest recommendation from Lyle is to increase the line-in gain (or 
the soundcard gain) until you have 4 to 5 bars indicated on the 'ALC' 
bargraph.  At that level, Lyle assures us that we are not driving the K3 
into ALC compression and that is the designed operating point for the 
K3. See below.


If you do not adjust the gain to give 4 to 5 bars of indication on the 
ALC bargraph, you will not have full power output.  But please, use 
the lowest power to maintain your QSO on PSK31 - other operators will 
appreciate it because you will not be wiping out their QSO on a nearby 
frequency.


73,
Don W3FPR

If I may quote part of his reflector post dated 4/06/2008:

In this case, the ALC meter display is acting as a VU Meter and is 
being used to help you set the Tx audio path gain correctly.  It is not 
showing you how much you are over-driving the PA.  This is why you can 
set it up in Tx test mode, when you are not transmitting any RF at all.


If you have a little too much drive, the DSP will scale things back at 
the output of the mic amp.  Thus at the 5th ALC bar, the DSP is at the 
threshold of gain compression.  At the 6th bar, it is cutting back gain 
by 6 dB or so.



Jerry T. Dowell wrote:

I am running beta 2.63/1.95 firmware. Although power output is normal in CW,
USB and LSB modes (setting SSB to operate with several bars of ALC), I can
only get about 10-20W out on PSK31 and 50-60W out on AFSK before ALC kicks
in. This is the case whether I use LINE IN or FP/RP MIC connections for the
input. It seems to me that I was able to comfortably get at least 50W out in
these modes when I first tried them several months ago, although I am not
sure of that. The low power also occurs if I use USB instead of DATA A for
the digital signals.

Has anyone else run into this problem? Am I forgetting something?

Jerry  AI6L
  


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Re: [Elecraft] help configuring the sub receiver

2008-11-15 Thread W7TEA

I hesitate to reply cuz my experience is so limited.  Try this if you haven't
already--

Turn on the SUB, turn on B SET, hit the ANT button until Main appears.  When
my rig came back from Aptos after a sub rx install, it was connected to the
Aux
antenna instead of the Main.

73,  Gary W7TEA


Bruce McLaughlin-2 wrote:
 
 A couple of days ago I received my K-3 back from Elecraft after having the
 sub receiver and a few other accessories installed.  Unfortunately, the
 sub
 receiver does not appear to work. I'm sure it's something dumb that I am
 overlooking in configuring it.
 
 Basically, I hear no signals.  I do hear what appears to be band noise but
 nothing else.  This is on 40 meters during the daytime.  I have the
 configuration set to what I believe is the atu unit.  I have only one
 antenna which is connected to the main antenna 1 connector.  The sub
 receiver sounds as though it has no antenna connected to it.  The other
 choice available on the configuration menu appears to be to connect the
 sub
 receiver to the BNC connector which appears to be an auxiliary antenna
 input
 which I do not want to use since nothing is connected there.  I have both
 the AF and RF gain controls for the sub receiver turned up full.
 
 Can anyone suggest what I may be doing wrong?  I want to use the sub
 receiver so that is connected to the same antenna as the main receiver and
 transmitter, both of which run through the ATU.  I tuned the sub receiver
 to
 the same frequency as the main receiver which had a very strong sideband
 signal and should have been clearly audible by the sub receiver but there
 was absolutely nothing other than some background hiss.  I will appreciate
 any suggestions.
 
 Bruce-W8FU
 
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[Elecraft] K3 FSK POL

2008-11-15 Thread k4fj
Do the current Beta's fix Config:FSK POL?

73, Steve, K4FJ
K3 #290

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[Elecraft] [K3] AF Stage Upgrade, RFC47 not greater than 150 ohms

2008-11-15 Thread Roger Marrotte
I received an AF Stage Upgrade kit today.  Installation went well.  I chose
the remove the old RFC47 method.  When I was done with the RFC47 mod, I
measured the resistance from each side of RFC47 to ground and my meter
showed a value less than 150 ohms.  I measured a value of 104 ohms for each
side to ground.  The installation looks as clean of could be.  I did the AF
out mod, put the radio back together and all seems to be working well.  I'm
wondering if the 150 ohm value mentioned in the manual is wrong?
 
Roger, W1EM
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[Elecraft] FS: K2 and / or KPA-100 amplifier

2008-11-15 Thread Jim Wiley
For sale: 



Excellent, like new condition,  Elecraft K2 with  many options  (KSB2, 
KNB2, K160RX, KBT2, KDSP2, more)  Upgraded to latest specs. 



Also, for sale either in combination with the K2, or as a separate 
sale:  Elecraft  KPA-100 plus KAT-100 in a stand-alone EC2 enclosure.



Free shipping to USA locations


Please contact me off list for additional details.


- Jim, KL7CC


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Re: [Elecraft] help configuring the sub receiver

2008-11-15 Thread Barry N1EU

Gary gave you good advice Bruce.  I'd check two other things:

1. Go into the config menu for KRX3 and check that it's set for Ant=Atu in
your case. 

2. Check that your subrx filters are set up properly.  I recommend using the
Elecraft K3 Utility - Configuration - Edit Crystal Filters and select Sub
Receiver and make sure your filters are enabled properly.

73,
Barry N1EU



W7TEA wrote:
 
 I hesitate to reply cuz my experience is so limited.  Try this if you
 haven't already--
 
 Turn on the SUB, turn on B SET, hit the ANT button until Main appears. 
 When
 my rig came back from Aptos after a sub rx install, it was connected to
 the Aux
 antenna instead of the Main.
 
 73,  Gary W7TEA
 
 
 Bruce McLaughlin-2 wrote:
 
 A couple of days ago I received my K-3 back from Elecraft after having
 the
 sub receiver and a few other accessories installed.  Unfortunately, the
 sub
 receiver does not appear to work. I'm sure it's something dumb that I am
 overlooking in configuring it.
 
 Basically, I hear no signals.  I do hear what appears to be band noise
 but
 nothing else.  This is on 40 meters during the daytime.  I have the
 configuration set to what I believe is the atu unit.  I have only one
 antenna which is connected to the main antenna 1 connector.  The sub
 receiver sounds as though it has no antenna connected to it.  The other
 choice available on the configuration menu appears to be to connect the
 sub
 receiver to the BNC connector which appears to be an auxiliary antenna
 input
 which I do not want to use since nothing is connected there.  I have both
 the AF and RF gain controls for the sub receiver turned up full.
 
 Can anyone suggest what I may be doing wrong?  I want to use the sub
 receiver so that is connected to the same antenna as the main receiver
 and
 transmitter, both of which run through the ATU.  I tuned the sub receiver
 to
 the same frequency as the main receiver which had a very strong sideband
 signal and should have been clearly audible by the sub receiver but there
 was absolutely nothing other than some background hiss.  I will
 appreciate
 any suggestions.
 
 Bruce-W8FU
 
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[Elecraft] K1/K2 question

2008-11-15 Thread Ken Kopp
I have an off-reflector friend who's just built a K1.  He asks 
if it can be mated with a KPA-100, perhaps in an EC-2?

Off hand, I'd say there are ... at least ... antenna relaying
issues involved.

He realizes that if this is possible he might not achieve the
full 100W output from the KPA-100.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
or
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[Elecraft] K1/K2 question

2008-11-15 Thread Bruce Beford
Ken-

My understanding is that the KPA100 needs communications from the K2 via the
auxbus to operate. It was not intended to work with other rigs.

That said, maybe someone with actual experience will chime in with another
opinion.

73,
Bruce N1RX

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Re: [Elecraft] K1/K2 question

2008-11-15 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ken,

Not possible.  The KPA100 must communicate with the base K2 for band 
selection, power control, T/R switching, and other functions.  The K1 
does not have the necessary signals to communicate with the KPA100.
The KPA100 was designed as an integral part of the K2 rather than 'just 
an amplifier'.


With a *lot* of modification, the KPA100 could be made to work 
standalone, but the amount of modification is so great that it would not 
be cost effective (and IMHO the result would be a kludge).


A higher power linear amplifier could be used with the K1.  If the amp 
is truly linear and develops 1000 watts with 100 watts of drive, it will 
also develop 100 watts of drive with 10 watts input or 50 watts with 5 
watts input.


73,
Don W3FPR

Ken Kopp wrote:
I have an off-reflector friend who's just built a K1.  He asks if it 
can be mated with a KPA-100, perhaps in an EC-2?

Off hand, I'd say there are ... at least ... antenna relaying
issues involved.

He realizes that if this is possible he might not achieve the
full 100W output from the KPA-100.


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[Elecraft] K2 upgrade A to B

2008-11-15 Thread John
I purchased a K2 kit that was bought in 1999 and have been upgrading it to B. 
 This kit was never built and the crystals are a different frequency than the 
newer ones.
Can I use the old crystals or will it suffer performance with the old ones?
The B version BFO calls for 4.9152 MHz and the ones in the A version I have 
are 4.915.  
The B version calls for 4.9136 crystals and the ones in the A version I 
have are 4.915.
Thanks.
John.

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RE: [Elecraft] [K3] AF Stage Upgrade, RFC47 not greater than 150 ohms

2008-11-15 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
How much less than 150 ohms,  Roger? 
 
The resistance on the K3 used to write and test that procedure is just about
200 ohms, no matter which way the meter leads are oriented. So 150 ohms
seemed a safe value to specify.
 
Since you chose to remove the original choke, did you desolder or clip the
leads?. If you clipped the leads, are you certain one can't short to
something on top of the board (such as the FP shield or the trace that
crosses under the original choke. There's a via right near one of the solder
pads for the original choke.)? If you desoldered the old choke and cleared
the pads,  is are the leads cut short on top of the RF board where they
cannot touch anything?
 
Finally, is the new choke attached to the correct two pads on the bottom? 
 
Ron AC7AC
 
 
 
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Roger Marrotte
Sent: Saturday, November 15, 2008 12:14 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] AF Stage Upgrade, RFC47 not greater than 150 ohms


I received an AF Stage Upgrade kit today.  Installation went well.  I chose
the remove the old RFC47 method.  When I was done with the RFC47 mod, I
measured the resistance from each side of RFC47 to ground and my meter
showed a value less than 150 ohms.  I measured a value of 104 ohms for each
side to ground.  The installation looks as clean of could be.  I did the AF
out mod, put the radio back together and all seems to be working well.  I'm
wondering if the 150 ohm value mentioned in the manual is wrong?
 
Roger, W1EM

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Re: [Elecraft] K1/K2 question

2008-11-15 Thread Terry Myers
Look at some of the amplifiers from Tokyo High Power.  They have several 
that will do a fine job.  They are high quality and price now.  Yes they can 
be imported on a personal basis.


Terry KQ5U

- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Ken Kopp [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, November 15, 2008 3:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1/K2 question



Ken,

Not possible.  The KPA100 must communicate with the base K2 for band 
selection, power control, T/R switching, and other functions.  The K1 does 
not have the necessary signals to communicate with the KPA100.
The KPA100 was designed as an integral part of the K2 rather than 'just an 
amplifier'.


With a *lot* of modification, the KPA100 could be made to work standalone, 
but the amount of modification is so great that it would not be cost 
effective (and IMHO the result would be a kludge).


A higher power linear amplifier could be used with the K1.  If the amp is 
truly linear and develops 1000 watts with 100 watts of drive, it will also 
develop 100 watts of drive with 10 watts input or 50 watts with 5 watts 
input.


73,
Don W3FPR

Ken Kopp wrote:
I have an off-reflector friend who's just built a K1.  He asks if it can 
be mated with a KPA-100, perhaps in an EC-2?

Off hand, I'd say there are ... at least ... antenna relaying
issues involved.

He realizes that if this is possible he might not achieve the
full 100W output from the KPA-100.


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[Elecraft] K1/K2 question - Thanks!

2008-11-15 Thread Ken Kopp

My thanks to all who responded to my question about
adapting a KPA-100 to a K1.

Your replies have been forwarded to my friend.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 upgrade A to B

2008-11-15 Thread Don Wilhelm

John,


It is rare to change the BFO crystals as part of an A to B upgrade.

The BFO crystals should be usable, but the IF crystals should be 
replaced with new ones. The crystals were controlled for motional 
inductance starting at about SN 2560 and result in a much better 
filter.  Elecraft sells a set of 7 matched crystals.  If you also have 
the KSB2 option for this K2, order the set of 14 and discard the 
original  IF crystals.


73,
Don W3FPR


John wrote:
I purchased a K2 kit that was bought in 1999 and have been upgrading 
it to B.  This kit was never built and the crystals are a different 
frequency than the newer ones.
Can I use the old crystals or will it suffer performance with the old 
ones?
The B version BFO calls for 4.9152 MHz and the ones in the A 
version I have are 4.915. 
The B version calls for 4.9136 crystals and the ones in the A 
version I have are 4.915.

Thanks.
John.


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[Elecraft] November RFTB- Sunday night!

2008-11-15 Thread Larry Makoski W2LJ
Hello everyone!

Hard to believe that it's the 3rd Sunday in November already! Before you know 
it, Thanksgiving will be upon us.  So we have something for you to be 
pre-thankful for.  It's RFTB weekend!.

The Flying Pig's monthly Run For the Bacon QRP CW contest is this Sunday 
night!  After a long day of raking leaves and cleaning gutters take some time 
for yourself to enjoy QRP and Amateur Radio.

This friendly, low pressure, 2 hour sprint runs from 9:00 to 11:00 PM Eastern 
Standard Time.

For all the details, please visit  http://www.fpqrp.com/fpqrprun.php

The Flying Pigs QRP ARCI is now maintaining an archive of previous pig-runs 
for your viewing pleasure.


See you in the troughs!

73 de Larry W2LJ
FP# 612

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 panadapter choices

2008-11-15 Thread Erik N Basilier

Thanks, Don for your thoughts.

I am familiar with the relationship between sound card sampling frequency 
and achievable spectrum width, and also with the SoftRock Yahoo group, 
athough it has been a while since I have been there. Sound card choice is 
complicated by the fact that the K3 invites portable operation; if I take a 
sound card dependent approach, I would want it to work with both desktop and 
laptop (as the non-soundcard solutions already do). The desktop currently 
has a Sound Blaster XFi Xtreme Audio, with 24 bit sampling at 96 kHz. This 
may be good enough for me for use at home. I have no spec's for the laptop's 
built-in sound card, but suspect it won't sample above 48 kHz. I know that 
it is susceptible to hash on the audio input when operated with its mains 
power supply operated from a power inverter in the field. A PCMCIA card 
might upgrade the laptop to be on par with the desktop without an extra box, 
but it seems the PCMCIA standard is considered obsolete. I found a PCMCIA 
audio card with good specs that has been recommended on the SoftRock group. 
That card is available used. However, I found a web site that states that it 
won't work with one of the chips in my laptop (and a lot of other laptops). 
The Soundblaster Live is a new one to me. There seems to exist an outboard 
box version of it, which may be attractive for the laptop (except an 
external box is per se unattractive). Whether I add an external or PCMCIA 
card, it seems that I would have to plunk down the money first and then find 
out if it is any better than the laptop's built-in audio w.r.t. the power 
supply hash. Maybe I should just build a filter for the laptop power supply 
first. On the other hand the SDR's that don't need any sound card would 
avoid that whole hassle (assuming they don't have a problem working with 
laptop with some hash on the DC supply).


It is one thing to choose one path to achieve a single goal. It is another 
thing to plan for multiple goals. I would like to be able to have the 
spectral display run simultaneously with digital mode software. Why do you 
want that, someone objects, when you already have the waterfall in the 
digital mode software? I know that, unless operating conditions are very 
benign, I get better digital copy with a narrow filter setting that means no 
other signals than the currently worked station is visible on the waterfall. 
The panoramic display should still be functional under those conditions. I 
know many people love the panoramic aspect of digital mode software because 
it offers so much for so little, but that very fact tends to lead to 
distorted priorities (I am sticking out my neck here!) such as everyone has 
to run low power and be close to everyone's noise level, so that noone's agc 
affects the noone's wanted signal. No such need once people have real 
panoramic reception with the corresponding frequency resolution (and click 
to tune), and then IF filters can be kept narrow all the time. (This is also 
a virtue of the K3's built-in PSK and RTTY encode/decode, although I don't 
find it useful until PC software supports it so that one can send from the 
keyboard and see more than a few received characters.)


OK I just went off on a tangent. Now back to the subject. An external 
soundcard in combination with the laptop's built-in audio would let me 
operate both digital and panadapter at the same time, albeit at least one of 
the two would have substandard audio with power hash problems. Suppose the 
external soundcard fixes the power hash problem. (I think this to be likely; 
after all the makers of these high performance audio solutions probably 
wouldn't want user complaints due to DC supply hash.) Then I'd want two 
external sound cards if one is needed for panoramic reception. It might be 
more prudent to spread the technology evolution risks by only getting one of 
these, plus an SDR that doesn't need a sound card. Ultimately though, I 
believe that today's hardware seldom breaks, but is very often made obsolete 
by changes in software. (That is one reason I am happy that my radio is able 
to function without a computer!). In the absence of software-free panoramic 
adapters for the K3, we obviously have to accept using computer software. 
Digital modes also require the computer with only a few minor exceptions. 
For contest use we may require the computer for logging. Then we have 
several pieces of software sharing one display (at least in portable 
operation, multiple monitors may be impractical; I do have two monitors on 
my home computer next to the radios). If each program displays a large and 
complex window, it is going to be hard to place the windows so that they 
don't interfere with one another. Thus I am back to the following order of 
priorities: 1. What are the characteristics of the candidate software 
packages, and 2. What hardware is supported by the best software 
combination.


73,
Erik K7TV

- Original Message - 

[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2008-11-15 Thread Kevin Rock
Good Evening,
   The weather has switched once again.  This is normal in Oregon; the common 
saying is: If you don't like the weather wait fifteen minutes.  However, I am 
enjoying our new weather very much.  Sunny and today quite warm at 65 degrees.  
I have been taking advantage of it by cutting more wood.  Not like I really 
need more wood but it just makes me feel good.  The exercise is good and the 
pile of wood is like money in the bank.  Only this money does not inflate nor 
devalue :)  In fact it gets better with a little age as long as I keep it 
covered so the moisture leaks out slowly.
   Propagation has been an odd duck this week.  My CW skeds have been quite 
nice whereas the MARS nets have been impossible to check in to.  I hear dozens 
of folks calling away with the NCS calling right over the top of them for folks 
to check in.  I was not able to check in once to our daily net even though I 
tried each day.  Voice is a most challenging mode!  Luckily ECN does not 
require you to yell into your microphone only to get ignored.  We try our best 
not to ignore you at all!  The 80 meter and 40 meter Fox Hunts did give me a 
sense of the propagation at our net's time of day.  Forty meters went long 
enough so N0AR was hearing folks in France better than he was hearing the fox.  
Hopefully that means my West Coast station can work into the east more easily.  
Cross your fingers and hope for the best. 

Please join us tomorrow evening.
 
1) Hail signs  (first letter or two of the suffix of your call)
2) NCS help (as well as QSP/QNP relay help)
3) Call by time zone (East, Central  Mountain, everybody else)
 
Monday z (Sunday 4 PM PST) 14050 kHz
Monday 0300z (Sunday 7 PM PST)  7045 kHz
 
   Stay well,
  Kevin.  KD5ONS

ecn.visionseer.com

-
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 panadapter choices

2008-11-15 Thread Lyle Johnson
...I have no spec's for the laptop's built-in sound card, but 
suspect it won't sample above 48 kHz.


Most laptops do not include a stereo LINE IN jack, only a monophonic MIC 
jack.  An I/Q based panadaptor (Softrock, LP-PAN) requires a stereo input.


73,

Lyle KK7P
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 panadapter choices

2008-11-15 Thread Jim Campbell

Erik,

Most laptop built-in sound cards won't work for SDR because they only 
have mono (microphone) input.  SDR requires a stereo (line) input.


That said, I have found that a USB sound dongle such  as the 
SoundBlaster Live! 24 USB or the Sound Blaster X-Fi Extreme USB work 
just fine with my laptop.


73,

Jim - W4BQP
K2/100 #2268

Erik N Basilier wrote:
snip
I have no spec's for the laptop's built-in sound card, but suspect it 
won't sample above 48 kHz. I know that it is susceptible to hash on 
the audio input when operated with its mains power supply operated 
from a power inverter in the field.

snip
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 panadapter choices

2008-11-15 Thread Erik N Basilier

Thanks, Lyle.

Most laptops do not include a stereo LINE IN jack, only a monophonic MIC 
jack.  An I/Q based panadaptor (Softrock, LP-PAN) requires a stereo input.


Yes, I know that, but forgot to mention it, and yes, mine is only mono.

Maybe you have looked at all the software packages involved?
Can you say if any excel by getting point-and-click tuning right by taking 
K3 mode into account?

Any that don't occupy an excessive part of the display?
Which hardware is supported by source with publicly available source code?

73,
Erik K7TV 



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[Elecraft] frozen K3

2008-11-15 Thread Todd Ruby
i am in trouble here. i tried to download the beta 263 version. and  
the utility kept trying many attempts to initiate the down load but  
it would not commence and i kept seeing Resynchronized at block XXX  
response N sent 67, 2 attempts  so i used force quit and restarted  
it and then it became frozen with MCU LD on the screen and the  
utility saying it is not responding. i got turned off the radio and  
held the power button down for 10 seconds and went ahead and sent in  
all firmware. i thought i had it back but the dsp load keeps failing  
and giving me an error



I am kicking myself for trying to mess with the radio in the middle  
of a contest!!


anyone have any help to offer?




73
de
todd
WB2ZAB

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Re: [Elecraft] frozen K3

2008-11-15 Thread Jeff Wandling W7BRS


Don't worry, it'll get fixed:

I ran into the very same problem.  Turned out the culprit was my Dell 
notebook computers were the cause.  The serial ports were not robust 
enough, compared to a PC.


Turn on the radio as such:

(A or B)

A:  HOLD the power button for a couple seconds.  Let it sit for about a 
minute


B:  Hold HI/LO down while TAPping power.  Let it sit for about a minute.

(I found B worked more often than A.  The key is to wait a bit.)

Then restart the Utility

Test the serial connection.

Upon success, re-attempt to load the firmware.

Even if it fails again with resync errors, keep re-trying.

After about 5-6 times it may work.

If that fails, load the MCU/DSP with a desktop computer and avoid using a 
notebook computer that reveals the condition.


If you have a spare PC handy and want to get back into the contest, try 
loading the firmware with the desktop PC first.


I've been where you are; it's unsettling.  But it'll work once you get a 
good serial port to load with.


Other things you probably already checked... snugness of connection, 
versions of firmware, working straight DB-9 cable.  If you make your own, 
as the manual says, you only need pins 2,3 and 5 -- which you can make 
with spare CAT5 network cable.


Tips from Elecraft that were explained to me recently:

If the load fails, only try to reload the same MCU that failed .. Until it 
loads keep the same version in your attempts.


Use a Desktop PC if you can.  If your notebook computer works for you 
great, but try a desktop if that gives you the resynch errors.


-jeff


--
Jeff Wandling DE W7BRS K3 #2105 http://w7brs.com/k3
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

On Sat, 15 Nov 2008, Todd Ruby wrote:

i am in trouble here. i tried to download the beta 263 version. and the 
utility kept trying many attempts to initiate the down load but it would not 
commence and i kept seeing Resynchronized at block XXX response N sent 67, 2 
attempts  so i used force quit and restarted it and then it became frozen 
with MCU LD on the screen and the utility saying it is not responding. i got 
turned off the radio and held the power button down for 10 seconds and went 
ahead and sent in all firmware. i thought i had it back but the dsp load 
keeps failing and giving me an error



I am kicking myself for trying to mess with the radio in the middle of a 
contest!!


anyone have any help to offer?




73
de
todd
WB2ZAB


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RE: [Elecraft] Questions from a Liberal Arts Major

2008-11-15 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
A crimped connection will break too in the same way if the wire is allowed
to flex where it leaves the crimp. 

That's why critical applications dealing with rather small wires subjected
to lots of movement and constant vibration always employ strain reliefs, not
matter how the wire is attached. Back in my days prototyping electronic
equipment for the USAF, we were concerned about wicked solder up under the
insulation only because if the wire did break it was hard to find. The break
was hidden inside the insulation. 

We recommended crimping for many connections because:

1) Electrically, it was as good as solder *if* one used the proper tool and
used it correctly. 

2) It was cheaper because training an assembler to crimp properly was a lot
faster than making them an expert at soldering. It was easy to justify a
tool costing hundreds of dollars to do the crimping. 

3) It was faster and avoided the danger of damage from burns and runaway
solder while soldering a joint in tight quarters - especially hanging half
upside down inside a cramped compartment in an aircraft fuselage.

3) In high current applications, not having solder in the connection
eliminated the possibility of molten solder flowing were we didn't want it
in case of a short circuit that overheated the connection (people have told
me that's why electrical codes for homes and other buildings  doesn't allow
solder too).

Many (perhaps most) Hams are willing to invest the time to learn to solder
well and are happy to invest a little more time when needed rather than buy
expensive crimp tools. But, for those who choose to crimp and spend the
money on the right tool with the right dies and learn to use it correctly,
they can save that time and end up with a joint that is just as robust and
secure as soldering.

Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
Brian,

What you say is true, a soldered connection used in a high vibration 
application will fail at the point where the solder has wicked up into 
the (stranded) wire.  This is an important consideration in aircraft and 
other mobile applications.

In ham home station applications where the wire is not subjected to 
severe vibration, a soldered connection is often more reliable than a 
crimped connection.  That is especially true if the crimping tool is not 
exactly the proper type for the connector in use.  A good crimping tool 
is a rather expensive tool - it must be matched to the connector and the 
wire to be crimped.  Inexpensive substitutes may work for a while, but 
will result in a connection that is more unreliable than a soldered 
connection.

The *real* answer is it all depends 

73,
Don W3FPR

Brian Lloyd wrote:

 On Nov 14, 2008, at 10:06 AM, Joe Spencer wrote:

 I have several Crimper tools but do not really trust crimped power 
 connectors so...I solder all my PowerPoles connectors. It is easy to 
 do...they work everytime and never a crimp problem.

 Crimp-only connections last longer than do crimp-and-solder 
 connections and are just as low resistance. When you solder the 
 crimped connection the solder wicks up the wire and creates fatigue 
 point where the wire will fail first.

 Of course, that does presume you have the correct crimp tool and you 
 are using the proper terminal for the size of wire.

 (This information comes from having wired aircraft.)


 Brian Lloyd
 Granite Bay Montessori School  9330 Sierra College Bl
 brian AT gbmontessori DOT com  Roseville, CA 95661
 +1.916.367.2131 (voice)+1.791.912.8170 (fax)

 PGP key ID:  12095C52A32A1B6C
 PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0  CC09 1209 5C52 A32A 1B6C

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[Elecraft] K3 - Preamp gain

2008-11-15 Thread Fred Jensen
Can someone tell me how much gain [like in S units] I should see from 
the preamp?  This will sound weird but with the preamp on, the band is 
full of sweepstakes signals, many very strong.  With it off, it is 
almost silent.  15 is quieter than 20 with the preamp off, 20 and 40 are 
about the same -- preamp off = just discernible signals.


I've probably set something wrong in one of the menus, just don't know what.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2009 Cal QSO Party  3-4 Oct 2008
- www.cqp.org
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Re: [Elecraft] K1/K2 question

2008-11-15 Thread John Shadle
You might have your friend check out the HF SuperPacker Pro. I think 
Virgil K5OOR is going to be doing a run of these in January.


http://www.hfprojectsyahoo.com/hfsupro100wa.html

100w on 160m to 10m. (Probably more than 100w, given the circuit--but 
he's just guaranteeing 100w on all bands.)


He also has the HF Packer Amp, which is a 35w model.

-john W4PAH
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Preamp gain

2008-11-15 Thread Don Wilhelm

Fred,

The real answer depends on your antenna system, and not on the gain of 
the preamp.


You should try each band with the preamp off and then on.  If attaching 
the antenna results in an increase in received noise, you have the K3 
set for the best usable sensitivity.  If that condition is met with the 
preamp off, then for that band, you should run with the preamp off.


73,
Don W3FPR

Fred Jensen wrote:
Can someone tell me how much gain [like in S units] I should see from 
the preamp?  This will sound weird but with the preamp on, the band is 
full of sweepstakes signals, many very strong.  With it off, it is 
almost silent.  15 is quieter than 20 with the preamp off, 20 and 40 
are about the same -- preamp off = just discernible signals.


I've probably set something wrong in one of the menus, just don't know 
what.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2009 Cal QSO Party  3-4 Oct 2008
- www.cqp.org
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 panadapter choices

2008-11-15 Thread N8LP

The LP-PAN system automatically takes into account all offset info from K3,
including mode, 5-pole filter offsets, DSP control offsets, etc. It also
supports one button band and mode switching of the K3 and in-band dual
receive using the sub-receiver in PowerSDR. In addition, I am finishing up
support for many other functions in PowerSDR (automatic preamp/attenuator
scaling, SPLIT mode, graphical DSP filter width / shift and VFO B linking to
the K3 for the PowerSDR sub-receiver). 

The main software is an open source sub-version of FlexRadio's PowerSDR,
spearheaded by WU2X, which is being updated to include resizing, panafall,
getting rid of unneeded Flex controls, etc. The glue that ties all this
together is LP-Bridge (free, but not open source), which in addition to
linking the K3 to PowerSDR provides virtual ports to simultaneously share
the K3 with loggers, CW Skimmer, PSK apps, etc. Plus it provides support for
real serial ports to feed data to SteppIRs, antenna tuners, band decoders,
etc.

73,
Larry N8LP



K7TV wrote:
 
 Thanks, Lyle.
 
 Most laptops do not include a stereo LINE IN jack, only a monophonic MIC 
 jack.  An I/Q based panadaptor (Softrock, LP-PAN) requires a stereo
 input.
 
 Yes, I know that, but forgot to mention it, and yes, mine is only mono.
 
 Maybe you have looked at all the software packages involved?
 Can you say if any excel by getting point-and-click tuning right by taking 
 K3 mode into account?
 Any that don't occupy an excessive part of the display?
 Which hardware is supported by source with publicly available source code?
 
 73,
 Erik K7TV 
 
 
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[Elecraft] Transverter use

2008-11-15 Thread Ross
I am trying to use my K3 to drive a DB6NT transverter.
I am using the low power output and the Xvtr out plug.

The transverter is 28mhz input 1296 output. 0-1mw input power, which suits the 
K3.

However I cannot get the xvtr to xmit. My problem is I cannot prove that I am 
getting any power out of the K3.

I cannot hear any output listening on my Orion II on 28mhz and I cannot see any 
signal on the Winradio G315 which is tuned to 28mhz.

I also use the Orion II to drive a DB6NT xvtr on 28mhz, when I key that, I can 
see the 28mhz signal, howver the Orion has an output of 10mw, but the signal
is perfectly visible on the Winradi screen.

My question is therefore, what is the best way to prove that the K3 is 
outputting on 28mhz at say 1mw or less, and if not what is stopping it, as all 
the config
screens say that the tx is on for the xvtr output.

Regards to all 
Ross
ZL1WN

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[Elecraft] Additional comments on Transverter use

2008-11-15 Thread Ross
I have connected the Xvtr output of the K3 directly to the antenna input of the 
Winradi G315.
Which is an SDR receiver, it works well up to 1800MHZ.

However trying to transmit CW from the K3 I get a broad signal which is about 
3khz wide, not a narrow signal which I would
expect from a CW signal, or as I got from checking the Orion II output, to the 
144 mhz xvtr.
Also the Winradio, does not show any signal increase if I change the k3 output 
from .1mw to 1mw

The mic is disconnected, so why can't I get a pure CW output?

So what control have I got wrong?

Help please.

Regards
Ross
ZL1WN___
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