Re: [Elecraft] Feature request

2009-02-16 Thread Ian White GM3SEK
W0FK wrote:

Having a quick split feature would be great! My IC-7800 has that, and 
I miss it on the K3. Hold split, enter the up split frequency (up 1, 
up 5, etc.) and the seconnd VFO is there. No counting or adding.


Quick split - otherwise known as auto split or pileup split - is 
an option that has been available in serious transceivers for almost 
twenty years.

If this option was available and selected, then holding SPLIT would 
automate the following sequence which presently has to be done manually:

1. Double-tap AB (reset VFO B, and sub-rx if present, to a known state)

2. Hold SPLIT.

3. Tune VFO B away from VFO A by a selected amount (+/- in 1kHz steps, 
either by pre-selection or 'on the fly' - but the latter would require 
extensive error trapping).

4. Turn sub-rx on (if it wasn't already on).

5. Disable TX on VFO A frequency until SPLIT is canceled (error trapping 
for the A/B, REV and AB buttons).

At present this whole sequence relies on the operator doing all the 
right things, and then continuing not to do any wrong things.  Errors 
are punished by major embarrassment (literally, world-class).

Nevertheless, this function should only be an OPTION. It will not be 
needed by anyone who never works a pileup, is never in a hurry and/or 
never makes a mistake.



-- 

73 from Ian GM3SEK
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[Elecraft] Softrock as K3 Panadaptor: Buffer Amp Needed?

2009-02-16 Thread ALAN GARD
Hi
 
I've seen differing views on the need to use a buffer amp. in this 
application.  Has anyone out there used Softrock successfully without it?  Did 
you have to take any special precautions to make it work properly?  I'm 
intending to use a 32.768 MHz /4 crystal.
 
Thanks in advance for any replies.
 
73 de Alan G4LWA (K3 # 1805)__
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Re: [Elecraft] Feature request

2009-02-16 Thread Val
 Quick split - otherwise known as auto split or pileup split - is
 an option that has been available in serious transceivers for almost
 twenty years.

 If this option was available and selected, then holding SPLIT would
 automate the following sequence which presently has to be done manually:

 1. Double-tap AB (reset VFO B, and sub-rx if present, to a known state)

 2. Hold SPLIT.

 3. Tune VFO B away from VFO A by a selected amount (+/- in 1kHz steps,
 either by pre-selection or 'on the fly' - but the latter would require
 extensive error trapping).

 4. Turn sub-rx on (if it wasn't already on).

 5. Disable TX on VFO A frequency until SPLIT is canceled (error trapping
 for the A/B, REV and AB buttons).

6. Switch VFO B display to show VFO B frequency if it currently shows some 
voltage, temperature, decoded text, etc.


73 Val, LZ1VB

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[Elecraft] K3/100 SN 2307 for sale in UK

2009-02-16 Thread David Goodenough
I have decided to sell my K3.

K3/100 SN 2307 - 2.7  2.1 filters. Built in December last year and in
immaculate condition. I also have a hard case for it. Price £1450 and I can
ship internationally, at the buyer's expense.

Please contact me on mm0...@googlemail.com or on +44 (0)770 272 0127 if
you'd like to pursue this.

David

MM0XDG
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[Elecraft] 2 Band K1 Dead - Help!

2009-02-16 Thread Marc G0AZS
Hi All

I bought a previously built 2 band K1 (80m and 40m) a few weeks ago. It's
been going really well and I've thoroughly enjoyed using it... BUT This
morning I wanted to have a quick listen/QSO before work and I went to tune
up my G5RV on 80m with my Z-11 autotuner.

Unfortunately I forgot to reduce the power before tuning (I normally tune up
with 1W or less) and I hit the tune button with about 5W from the K1. It
started tuning but after about 2 seconds, the K1 died completely and cannot
be resurrected.

I will have a look at it tonight but has anyone had a similar experience or
have any ideas about where to check first?

73 Marc G0AZS
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Re: [Elecraft] Feature request

2009-02-16 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy
Ian GM3SEK wrote:

Quick split - otherwise known as auto split or pileup split - is
an option that has been available in serious transceivers for almost
twenty years.

Make that forty or so Ian if homebrewed rigs count :-)

When using multiple offset auto split I find it useful to have the actual 
frequency difference between the transmit and receive frequencies displayed. 
If this display was available in a rig without any form of auto split, 
then setting VFO B to the desired transmit frequency quickly would not 
require any mental arithmatic before calling a DX station and before the 
cluster mob arrives, very important at 2 am!

If this can be done with the K3, my apology for this suggestion.

73,
Geoff
GM4ESD



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Re: [Elecraft] Softrock as K3 Panadaptor: Buffer Amp Needed?

2009-02-16 Thread Don Wilhelm
Alan,

The Softrock receiver will work just fine with or without  buffer amplifier.
It will be the K3 that will suffer because there will be a strong signal 
injected into the 8 MHz IF (from the softrock local oscillator) which 
can activate the AGC and otherwise degrade the K3 receive characteristics.

What that means is that you can try it out without the buffer amplifier, 
but I would not leave it permanently connected without the amplifier.  
There is also a gain consideration for the buffer amp to increase the K3 
IF output level.

73,
Don W3FPR

ALAN GARD wrote:
 Hi
  
 I've seen differing views on the need to use a buffer amp. in this 
 application.  Has anyone out there used Softrock successfully without 
 it?  Did you have to take any special precautions to make it work 
 properly?  I'm intending to use a 32.768 MHz /4 crystal.
  
 Thanks in advance for any replies.
  
 73 de Alan G4LWA (K3 # 1805)


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Re: [Elecraft] 2 Band K1 Dead - Help!

2009-02-16 Thread Don Wilhelm
Marc,

You have provided very little information, but D10 can short if operated 
for a substantial period into a high SWR (its purpose is to protect the 
PA transistor).

If D10 is shorted, it will produce a short on the DC input voltage.

You can try removing D10 (and check for a charred T4 at the same time) 
and see if the K1 works into a dummy load - if so, replace D10 and enjoy.

If the problem is not D10, I will need more detailed information for a 
2nd guess.

73,
Don W3FPR


Marc G0AZS wrote:
 Hi All

 I bought a previously built 2 band K1 (80m and 40m) a few weeks ago. 
 It's been going really well and I've thoroughly enjoyed using it... 
 BUT This morning I wanted to have a quick listen/QSO before work and I 
 went to tune up my G5RV on 80m with my Z-11 autotuner.

 Unfortunately I forgot to reduce the power before tuning (I normally 
 tune up with 1W or less) and I hit the tune button with about 5W from 
 the K1. It started tuning but after about 2 seconds, the K1 died 
 completely and cannot be resurrected.

 I will have a look at it tonight but has anyone had a similar 
 experience or have any ideas about where to check first?

 73 Marc G0AZS

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[Elecraft] 8 AWG adapter

2009-02-16 Thread Julius Fazekas
I have some really nice 8AWG cable for my power line. Connecting to the PS is 
not a problem, but haven't figured out an elegant means to drop it down to 
use with 30A PP connectors. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
TnQP http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
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Re: [Elecraft] 8 AWG adapter

2009-02-16 Thread Tom Hammond
Hi Julius:

I'm using #8 in my mobile installation and had to get it down to a more
suitable gauge for the APP connectors.

I made a couple butt-joint connectors from short (1) lengths of brass
'hobby tubing' obtained at the local hardware store. I took a short piece
of the #8 wire with me and selected the smallest diameter of brass tubing
that would still accommodate the stripped #8 wire.

I then cut two 1 lengths, inserted one #8 wire (stripped to show 1/2 of
wire into the tubing, flowed more than ample solder in from the other end.
Let it cool while I did the other conductor. Returned to tube #1 and heated
it back up while gently inserting the 1/2-stripped end of my #10 wire
(which does fit the APP 45A connector). Let solder set and cover with a
1-1/2 length of heatshrink and yer good to go!  Works like a champ.

I could have used 'real' #8 butt-join connectors, but they were too large
and 'clunky' for my liking... the brass hobby tubing works great, and it'll
handle well over the 20A-30A needed by most rigs and accessories.

73,

Tom   N0SS



At 07:46 02/16/2009, Julius Fazekas wrote:
I have some really nice 8AWG cable for my power line. Connecting to 
the PS is not a problem, but haven't figured out an elegant means 
to drop it down to use with 30A PP connectors. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
TnQP http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
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Re: [Elecraft] 8 AWG adapter

2009-02-16 Thread Julius Fazekas
Hi Tom,

I like it! May even have some suitable tubing on hand.

Just out of curiosity, have you used the APP connectors from old UPS units for 
anything? We had a couple of units with fried boards and the connectors (and 
several other parts)) were just too good to dispose of :o)

All of my power distribution has the same size APP as on the K3, KPA100, etc. I 
have a nice 50A adjustable rack mount supply I want to use about 10 feet from 
the operating position, so 8AWG seems to fit the bill.

Hope you're doing well!

73,
Julius

Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
TnQP http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366


--- On Mon, 2/16/09, Tom Hammond n...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 From: Tom Hammond n...@embarqmail.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 8 AWG adapter
 To: phriend...@yahoo.com, elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Monday, February 16, 2009, 8:57 AM
 Hi Julius:
 
 I'm using #8 in my mobile installation and had to get
 it down to a more
 suitable gauge for the APP connectors.
 
 I made a couple butt-joint connectors from short (1)
 lengths of brass
 'hobby tubing' obtained at the local hardware
 store. I took a short piece
 of the #8 wire with me and selected the smallest diameter
 of brass tubing
 that would still accommodate the stripped #8 wire.
 
 I then cut two 1 lengths, inserted one #8 wire
 (stripped to show 1/2 of
 wire into the tubing, flowed more than ample solder in from
 the other end.
 Let it cool while I did the other conductor. Returned to
 tube #1 and heated
 it back up while gently inserting the 1/2-stripped
 end of my #10 wire
 (which does fit the APP 45A connector). Let solder set and
 cover with a
 1-1/2 length of heatshrink and yer good to go!  Works
 like a champ.
 
 I could have used 'real' #8 butt-join connectors,
 but they were too large
 and 'clunky' for my liking... the brass hobby
 tubing works great, and it'll
 handle well over the 20A-30A needed by most rigs and
 accessories.
 
 73,
 
 Tom   N0SS
 
 
 
 At 07:46 02/16/2009, Julius Fazekas wrote:
 I have some really nice 8AWG cable for my power line.
 Connecting to 
 the PS is not a problem, but haven't figured out an
 elegant means 
 to drop it down to use with 30A PP connectors. Any
 ideas?
 
 Thanks,
 
 Julius Fazekas
 N2WN
 
 Tennessee Contest Group
 TnQP http://www.tnqp.org/
 
 Elecraft K2/100 #4455
 Elecraft K3/100 #366
 __
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Re: [Elecraft] 8 AWG adapter

2009-02-16 Thread Julius Fazekas
Hi Tim,

Didn't know they made those. Do you know the part number? Does WMR have them?

Thanks,
Julius

Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
TnQP http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366


--- On Mon, 2/16/09, Timothy Raymer timothy.ray...@mdc.mo.gov wrote:

 From: Timothy Raymer timothy.ray...@mdc.mo.gov
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] 8 AWG adapter
 To: phriend...@yahoo.com phriend...@yahoo.com, elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Monday, February 16, 2009, 9:12 AM
 Julius:
 
 If it is conventional 8AWG wire, it probably will fit in
 the 45A crimps for the Anderson Power Pole Connectors. 
 Those same contacts fit in the enclosures that fit our
 Elecraft PP.  Just be cautious when crimping it down.  If
 you have access to the Anderson Die Crimp tool rather than
 the West Mountain Combo, I would recommend using that one.
 
 Tim Raymer
 K2 #1383
 73 de KA0OUV
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
 Julius Fazekas
 Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 07:47
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] 8 AWG adapter
 
 I have some really nice 8AWG cable for my power line.
 Connecting to the PS is not a problem, but haven't
 figured out an elegant means to drop it down to
 use with 30A PP connectors. Any ideas?
 
 Thanks,
 
 Julius Fazekas
 N2WN
 
 Tennessee Contest Group
 TnQP http://www.tnqp.org/
 
 Elecraft K2/100 #4455
 Elecraft K3/100 #366
 __
 Elecraft mailing list
 Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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Re: [Elecraft] 8 AWG adapter

2009-02-16 Thread Timothy Raymer
I got mine when Tom, N0SS, did a bulk order for the club.  I believe WMR does 
stock them.  261G2 is the contact P/N they list on their web site.  Actually 
rated for only 10 gauge wire.  

If you have conventional soft-drawn copper 8 AWG wire, you might be able to get 
them to crimp.  I ran into trouble with some specialized 10 AWG wire for stereo 
installations.  Copper was lots of fine wires, and a harder draw.  It wouldn't 
compress enough, and the cast die from the WMR crimp tool didn't like it.  

Tim Raymer

73 de KA0OUV

-Original Message-
From: Julius Fazekas [mailto:phriend...@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 08:16
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Timothy Raymer
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] 8 AWG adapter

Hi Tim,

Didn't know they made those. Do you know the part number? Does WMR have them?

Thanks,
Julius

Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
TnQP http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366


--- On Mon, 2/16/09, Timothy Raymer timothy.ray...@mdc.mo.gov wrote:

 From: Timothy Raymer timothy.ray...@mdc.mo.gov
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] 8 AWG adapter
 To: phriend...@yahoo.com phriend...@yahoo.com, elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Monday, February 16, 2009, 9:12 AM
 Julius:
 
 If it is conventional 8AWG wire, it probably will fit in
 the 45A crimps for the Anderson Power Pole Connectors. 
 Those same contacts fit in the enclosures that fit our
 Elecraft PP.  Just be cautious when crimping it down.  If
 you have access to the Anderson Die Crimp tool rather than
 the West Mountain Combo, I would recommend using that one.
 
 Tim Raymer
 K2 #1383
 73 de KA0OUV
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
 Julius Fazekas
 Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 07:47
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] 8 AWG adapter
 
 I have some really nice 8AWG cable for my power line.
 Connecting to the PS is not a problem, but haven't
 figured out an elegant means to drop it down to
 use with 30A PP connectors. Any ideas?
 
 Thanks,
 
 Julius Fazekas
 N2WN
 
 Tennessee Contest Group
 TnQP http://www.tnqp.org/
 
 Elecraft K2/100 #4455
 Elecraft K3/100 #366
 __
 Elecraft mailing list
 Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
 Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
 Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 
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Re: [Elecraft] 8 AWG adapter

2009-02-16 Thread Milt, N5IA
Use pigtail wires of the largest guage the PP connectors will accept, to 
interface between the #8 AWG and the PP connectors.

Milt, N5IA

- Original Message - 
From: Julius Fazekas phriend...@yahoo.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 6:46 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] 8 AWG adapter


I have some really nice 8AWG cable for my power line. Connecting to the PS 
is not a problem, but haven't figured out an elegant means to drop it 
down to use with 30A PP connectors. Any ideas?


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[Elecraft] Feature request--'Quick or Auto Split'

2009-02-16 Thread David and Dianne on Comcast
Dear Elecraft,

I also would like to again add my request for an option to implement a  
'quick split' feature option in the K3.

Once you have used it, it is hard not to have it available.

I am surprised that such has not been added seeing the numerous requests 
that have surfaced over the past year.

Any chance for it soon?

73 de N1LQ-Dave




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Re: [Elecraft] 8 AWG adapter

2009-02-16 Thread Julius Fazekas
Tim,

This stuff will definitely not go into the 30A connector, doubtful on the 45A 
either. It is a multi-strand cable.

Looks like Tom's suggestion will work best.

Cheers,
Julius

Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
TnQP http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366


--- On Mon, 2/16/09, Timothy Raymer timothy.ray...@mdc.mo.gov wrote:

 From: Timothy Raymer timothy.ray...@mdc.mo.gov
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] 8 AWG adapter
 To: phriend...@yahoo.com phriend...@yahoo.com, elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Monday, February 16, 2009, 9:23 AM
 I got mine when Tom, N0SS, did a bulk order for the club.  I
 believe WMR does stock them.  261G2 is the contact P/N they
 list on their web site.  Actually rated for only 10 gauge
 wire.  
 
 If you have conventional soft-drawn copper 8 AWG wire, you
 might be able to get them to crimp.  I ran into trouble with
 some specialized 10 AWG wire for stereo installations. 
 Copper was lots of fine wires, and a harder draw.  It
 wouldn't compress enough, and the cast die from the WMR
 crimp tool didn't like it.  
 
 Tim Raymer
 
 73 de KA0OUV
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Julius Fazekas [mailto:phriend...@yahoo.com] 
 Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 08:16
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Timothy Raymer
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] 8 AWG adapter
 
 Hi Tim,
 
 Didn't know they made those. Do you know the part
 number? Does WMR have them?
 
 Thanks,
 Julius
 
 Julius Fazekas
 N2WN
 
 Tennessee Contest Group
 TnQP http://www.tnqp.org/
 
 Elecraft K2/100 #4455
 Elecraft K3/100 #366
 
 
 --- On Mon, 2/16/09, Timothy Raymer
 timothy.ray...@mdc.mo.gov wrote:
 
  From: Timothy Raymer timothy.ray...@mdc.mo.gov
  Subject: RE: [Elecraft] 8 AWG adapter
  To: phriend...@yahoo.com
 phriend...@yahoo.com,
 elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Date: Monday, February 16, 2009, 9:12 AM
  Julius:
  
  If it is conventional 8AWG wire, it probably will fit
 in
  the 45A crimps for the Anderson Power Pole Connectors.
 
  Those same contacts fit in the enclosures that fit our
  Elecraft PP.  Just be cautious when crimping it down. 
 If
  you have access to the Anderson Die Crimp tool rather
 than
  the West Mountain Combo, I would recommend using that
 one.
  
  Tim Raymer
  K2 #1383
  73 de KA0OUV
  
  
  -Original Message-
  From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
  [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
  Julius Fazekas
  Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 07:47
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Subject: [Elecraft] 8 AWG adapter
  
  I have some really nice 8AWG cable for my power line.
  Connecting to the PS is not a problem, but haven't
  figured out an elegant means to drop it
 down to
  use with 30A PP connectors. Any ideas?
  
  Thanks,
  
  Julius Fazekas
  N2WN
  
  Tennessee Contest Group
  TnQP http://www.tnqp.org/
  
  Elecraft K2/100 #4455
  Elecraft K3/100 #366
 
 __
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[Elecraft] 45A APP Crimper

2009-02-16 Thread Paul Christensen
Looks like the Anderson P/N for the 45A crimper is 1309G3.  Is there that 
much of a difference between it and the WMR tool?

It appears that the Anderson dies may be of better quality and the leverage 
may be optimized for the 45A connector, where the WMR tool might be a 
compromise in order to facilitate three crimp sizes.  At roughly USD $200 
for the Anderson tool, that's quite expensive for just one APP size.  Is it 
possible to simply swap dies between the 45A and 15/30A sizes and save on 
the expense of owning two ratcheting tools?

Paul, W9AC



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Re: [Elecraft] Feature request

2009-02-16 Thread W0MU Mike Fatchett
Turn sub rcv on for those that have it.   


A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may
never get over. Ben Franklin
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ian White GM3SEK
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 1:28 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Feature request

W0FK wrote:

Having a quick split feature would be great! My IC-7800 has that, and 
I miss it on the K3. Hold split, enter the up split frequency (up 1, 
up 5, etc.) and the seconnd VFO is there. No counting or adding.


Quick split - otherwise known as auto split or pileup split - is an
option that has been available in serious transceivers for almost twenty
years.

If this option was available and selected, then holding SPLIT would automate
the following sequence which presently has to be done manually:

1. Double-tap AB (reset VFO B, and sub-rx if present, to a known state)

2. Hold SPLIT.

3. Tune VFO B away from VFO A by a selected amount (+/- in 1kHz steps,
either by pre-selection or 'on the fly' - but the latter would require
extensive error trapping).

4. Turn sub-rx on (if it wasn't already on).

5. Disable TX on VFO A frequency until SPLIT is canceled (error trapping for
the A/B, REV and AB buttons).

At present this whole sequence relies on the operator doing all the right
things, and then continuing not to do any wrong things.  Errors are punished
by major embarrassment (literally, world-class).

Nevertheless, this function should only be an OPTION. It will not be needed
by anyone who never works a pileup, is never in a hurry and/or never makes a
mistake.



-- 

73 from Ian GM3SEK
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Re: [Elecraft] 8 AWG adapter

2009-02-16 Thread KM5Q
Those short #10 pigtails need to be very flexible. You can go to a car  
audio shop and by extremely flexible wire by the foot. If it almost  
fits the connector, snip off a few strands.

The stuff I got is speaker cable but I use it for power leads. Very  
nice.

Windy KM5Q



 Use pigtail wires of the largest guage the PP connectors will  
 accept, to
 interface between the #8 AWG and the PP connectors.

 Milt, N5IA
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[Elecraft] 2 Band K1 Dead - Help!

2009-02-16 Thread Mike Morrow
Don wrote:

 ... D10 can short if operated for a substantial period into a
 high SWR (its purpose is to protect the PA transistor).

 If D10 is shorted, it will produce a short on the DC input voltage.

Don,

I believe you mean D19 rather than D10.

Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] 2 Band K1 Dead - Help!

2009-02-16 Thread Don Wilhelm
Yes, that was D19 - my eyes were not awake when I looked at the schematic.

73,
Don W3FPR

Mike Morrow wrote:
 Don wrote:

   
 ... D10 can short if operated for a substantial period into a
 high SWR (its purpose is to protect the PA transistor).

 If D10 is shorted, it will produce a short on the DC input voltage.
 

 Don,

 I believe you mean D19 rather than D10.

 Mike / KK5F
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 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
 Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.10.25/1955 - Release Date: 02/16/09 
 06:55:00

   
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Re: [Elecraft] Feature request

2009-02-16 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

I have to disagree ... quick split would cause too may 
other problems like losing the frequency if one has 
already set VFO B (subreciever) to the desired place. 

Except for actions explicitly designed to change frequency 
(tune the VFO, change band, recall a memory, etc.), the user 
interface should never change the frequency and it should 
never change the frequency of the other VFO.  

Any Quick split function should require an explicit 
input sequence ... perhaps Freq Enter, Split or XIT, 
set the offset, Split ... but the current Split 
function should not be overloaded with quick split. 

Even if Quick Split were a menu option for Split, 
the time to through the menu to change the function 
would be greater than the current multiple keystroke 
method of setting a specific split.  Since not every 
split is the same (5 to 25 KHz on phone vs. 1 to 5 
on CW in most cases) is useful only on one mode and 
only if the preset value happens to match the other 
station's offset.  

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 


 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ian 
 White GM3SEK
 Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 3:28 AM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Feature request
 
 
 W0FK wrote:
 
 Having a quick split feature would be great! My IC-7800 
 has that, and
 I miss it on the K3. Hold split, enter the up split 
 frequency (up 1, 
 up 5, etc.) and the seconnd VFO is there. No counting or adding.
 
 
 Quick split - otherwise known as auto split or pileup 
 split - is 
 an option that has been available in serious transceivers for almost 
 twenty years.
 
 If this option was available and selected, then holding SPLIT would 
 automate the following sequence which presently has to be 
 done manually:
 
 1. Double-tap AB (reset VFO B, and sub-rx if present, to a 
 known state)
 
 2. Hold SPLIT.
 
 3. Tune VFO B away from VFO A by a selected amount (+/- in 
 1kHz steps, 
 either by pre-selection or 'on the fly' - but the latter 
 would require 
 extensive error trapping).
 
 4. Turn sub-rx on (if it wasn't already on).
 
 5. Disable TX on VFO A frequency until SPLIT is canceled 
 (error trapping 
 for the A/B, REV and AB buttons).
 
 At present this whole sequence relies on the operator doing all the 
 right things, and then continuing not to do any wrong things.  Errors 
 are punished by major embarrassment (literally, world-class).
 
 Nevertheless, this function should only be an OPTION. It will not be 
 needed by anyone who never works a pileup, is never in a hurry and/or 
 never makes a mistake.
 
 
 
 -- 
 
 73 from Ian GM3SEK
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Re: [Elecraft] 8 AWG adapter

2009-02-16 Thread Tom Hammond
Hi Windy:

Those short #10 pigtails need to be very flexible. You can go to a car
audio shop and by extremely flexible wire by the foot. If it almost
fits the connector, snip off a few strands.

The stuff I got is speaker cable but I use it for power leads. Very
nice.

I used a 4-6 length of #10 RED-BLK power cable (from somewhere unknown)
which was quite flexible and worked great.  And all(!) of the wire strands
fit nicely into the trough of the 45A connector.

I used the West Mountain Radio crimper and it did a really nice job on the
45A (and other sizes) of connector. It would probably have choked had I
tried to use it on #10 solid copper and possibly on hard-drawn copper, just
Like Tim, KA0OUV, noted.  I've not broken any dies... yet!  G

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Configuring N1MM to send CW

2009-02-16 Thread Julius Fazekas n2wn

Bill,

Make sure the settings in your K3 match what you're telling N1MM to do. When
I've run into such a problem it was due to a mismatch. 

I think my K3 is set DTR-RTS (not in front of the radio, so don't take this
as gospel).

Crank down the power, or go to test mode. It will save you from ummm any
unfortunate transmissions.

I can send more details when I get home if you need them. GL in the 'test!

Cheers,
Julius
n2wn


Bill Feidt wrote:
 
 I'm trying to set up N1MM to send CW to my K3 for ARRL DX CW next weekend. 
 I'm 
 using the USB to Serial cable supplied by Elecraft.  The computer radio
 control 
 is working fine and I'm able to get spots, change bands, QSY to spots,
 etc. I'm 
 set up for SO1V. I've checked CW box on the same port (COM4) as is used
 for 
 radio control. The N1MM K3 SupportedRadios page 
 (http://pages.cthome.net/n1mm/html/English/SupportedRadios.htm) says,
 
The K3 accepts CW on DTR (pin 4) of the same COM port
you're using to control the K3. Set N1MM to send CW on
that port (Ports setup), and set PTT-KEY (second K3
CONFIG menu) to OFF-DTR, and set the K3 for QSK. In
other words, you don't need that transistor adapter unless
you want to do SO2R.
 
 However, when I set PTT-KEY to OFF-DTR, the K3 goes into Test output
 mode and 
 the transmitted in keyed continuously until I take it out of OFF-DTR.  The
 K3 is 
 set for QSK.
 
 What am I doing wrong?
 
 Any insight will be very much appreciated.
 
 73,
 
 Bill/NG3K
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Configuring N1MM to send CW

2009-02-16 Thread W0MU Mike Fatchett
To key cw you will need some type of keying circuitry.  You have to have a 
keying transistor to send CW.

 6.4 Setup up PTT−ing the rig/sending CW
Sending CW and PTT−ing the radio can be done three different ways.
Using the Parallel port
Add an interface to the parallel port, this can be a simple one transistor 
circuit (for
each pin one) but also a bought interface . More on this in the interfacing 
chapter. Pin
16 is used for PTT and pin 17 for CW, these are fixed values.
¨ 
Go to the Configurer and select the hardware tab.
à Select behind the LPT port to use the CW/Other selection box.
Select the 'Set' button and choose the right settings (CW−speed, PTT−delay
and the CW/Other port address).
à 
The CW/Other Port Address should be the same as used in you Windows
configuration.
à 
à Select the correct Radio/VFO setting (1, 2 or Both)
à Press OK
¨ 
¨ PTT and CW should work now.
· 
Using the Serial port
Add an interface to the serial port, this can be a simple one transistor 
circuit (for each
pin one) but also a bought interface . More on this in the interfacing chapter. 
Mostly
the RTS is used for PTT and DTR for CW.
¨ 
Go to the Configurer and select the hardware tab.
à Select behind the serial port to use the CW/Other selection box.
Select the 'Set' button and choose the right settings (CW−speed, PTT−delay
and the CW/Other port address).
à 
à Select the pin to use to PTT and CW.
The CW/Other Port Address should be the same as used in you Windows
configuration.
à 
à Select the correct Radio/VFO setting (1, 2 or Both)
When Winkey is used also select this setting. The baudrate etc. for Winkey is
fixed and set by the program.
à 
à Press OK
¨ 
¨ PTT and CW should work now.
· 
Using a USB port
¨ PTT via a USB port can not be done direct, a USB−to−serial converter is 
needed.
Not every Serial−to−USB can change the status of the RTS (and DTR) pins . So
check before you buy.
¨ 
¨ When this device is setup in Windows select the serial port used by it.
¨ Follow the steps for a serial port to set up for PTT−ing.


A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may 
never get over. Ben Franklin
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Julius Fazekas n2wn
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 9:24 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Configuring N1MM to send CW


Bill,

Make sure the settings in your K3 match what you're telling N1MM to do. When 
I've run into such a problem it was due to a mismatch. 

I think my K3 is set DTR-RTS (not in front of the radio, so don't take this as 
gospel).

Crank down the power, or go to test mode. It will save you from ummm any 
unfortunate transmissions.

I can send more details when I get home if you need them. GL in the 'test!

Cheers,
Julius
n2wn


Bill Feidt wrote:
 
 I'm trying to set up N1MM to send CW to my K3 for ARRL DX CW next weekend. 
 I'm
 using the USB to Serial cable supplied by Elecraft.  The computer 
 radio control is working fine and I'm able to get spots, change bands, 
 QSY to spots, etc. I'm set up for SO1V. I've checked CW box on the 
 same port (COM4) as is used for radio control. The N1MM K3 
 SupportedRadios page
 (http://pages.cthome.net/n1mm/html/English/SupportedRadios.htm) says,
 
The K3 accepts CW on DTR (pin 4) of the same COM port
you're using to control the K3. Set N1MM to send CW on
that port (Ports setup), and set PTT-KEY (second K3
CONFIG menu) to OFF-DTR, and set the K3 for QSK. In
other words, you don't need that transistor adapter unless
you want to do SO2R.
 
 However, when I set PTT-KEY to OFF-DTR, the K3 goes into Test output 
 mode and the transmitted in keyed continuously until I take it out of 
 OFF-DTR.  The
 K3 is
 set for QSK.
 
 What am I doing wrong?
 
 Any insight will be very much appreciated.
 
 73,
 
 Bill/NG3K
 
 
 
 
 
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 list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
 
 

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Re: [Elecraft] 45A APP Crimper

2009-02-16 Thread W0MU Mike Fatchett
HRO now stocks a kit that has a crimping tool for Anderson connectors.  I
think it has a number of different sizes.  The kit also has a coax cutter
and a the crimp tool has dies for coax too.

The kit was around $120.00 all in a nice plastic box.

The WMR crimp tool I have does 45A connectors.  I have never tried to crimp
them.


A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may
never get over. Ben Franklin
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Paul Christensen
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 8:13 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] 45A APP Crimper

Looks like the Anderson P/N for the 45A crimper is 1309G3.  Is there that
much of a difference between it and the WMR tool?

It appears that the Anderson dies may be of better quality and the leverage
may be optimized for the 45A connector, where the WMR tool might be a
compromise in order to facilitate three crimp sizes.  At roughly USD $200
for the Anderson tool, that's quite expensive for just one APP size.  Is it
possible to simply swap dies between the 45A and 15/30A sizes and save on
the expense of owning two ratcheting tools?

Paul, W9AC



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Re: [Elecraft] 8 AWG adapter

2009-02-16 Thread W0MU Mike Fatchett
Soldering is an option if you don't have a crimping tool. 


A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may
never get over. Ben Franklin
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Tom Hammond
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 9:23 AM
To: KM5Q; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 8 AWG adapter

Hi Windy:

Those short #10 pigtails need to be very flexible. You can go to a car 
audio shop and by extremely flexible wire by the foot. If it almost 
fits the connector, snip off a few strands.

The stuff I got is speaker cable but I use it for power leads. Very 
nice.

I used a 4-6 length of #10 RED-BLK power cable (from somewhere unknown)
which was quite flexible and worked great.  And all(!) of the wire strands
fit nicely into the trough of the 45A connector.

I used the West Mountain Radio crimper and it did a really nice job on the
45A (and other sizes) of connector. It would probably have choked had I
tried to use it on #10 solid copper and possibly on hard-drawn copper, just
Like Tim, KA0OUV, noted.  I've not broken any dies... yet!  G

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

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[Elecraft] Sub Receiver jones...

2009-02-16 Thread Jim Miller
Listening to K5D last night made it obvious to me (I'm slow...) the
benefit of a sub-receiver. The exchanges that occur by the pursuers
are impossible to find by switching back and forth between pursued and
pursuer frequencies. I'm assuming that the pursued will take the next
call somewhere near the last one, maybe a bad assumption.

Maybe next holiday season...

73

jim ab3cv
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Configuring N1MM to send CW

2009-02-16 Thread W6SX Hank Garretson

At 08:43 AM 16 02 2009, W0MU Mike Fatchett wrote:

To key cw you will need some type of keying circuitry.

You CAN key the K3 using RS-232 command without a keying 
interface.  See page 18 of the manual.


73,

Hank, W6SX

Mammoth Lakes, California

Elevation 8083 feet in John Muir's Range of Light 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Configuring N1MM to send CW

2009-02-16 Thread Richard Ferch
W0MU wrote:

 To key cw you will need some type of keying circuitry.  You have to have a
keying \
 transistor to send CW.

Not true with the K3, Mike. Unlike most other radios, the K3 accepts CW and
PTT keying signals on DTR and/or RTS without any need for a keying circuit -
see the manual p. 18, near the bottom of the left column. The N1MM
documentation has not caught up with this.

If you have N1MM Logger configured for CW on DTR and PTT on RTS on the radio
control port and you set the K3's CONFIG:PTT-KEY option set to RTS-DTR, then
the Logger will key both PTT and CW with just a straight RS-232 cable and no
other connections. If you only want to key one of CW and PTT via this port
(for example, if you key CW with a Winkey on a different serial port), then
you can adjust the configuration accordingly (e.g. RTS set to PTT and DTR
set to Always off, with the CONFIG:PTT-KEY set to RTS-OFF).

To make this work, you must make the software and the radio configurations
match, and you must do it in the right order. First, go into the N1MM
Logger's Configurer and change the configuration on the appropriate control
line(s) from Always on to the desired value (PTT or CW). After you have
both DTR and RTS set to the desired values in the software, and you have
made sure that there is a check mark in the CW/Other column beside the port
you are using for CW, *only then* go into the K3's CONFIG:PTT-KEY menu item
and set it accordingly.

If you make the changes in the reverse order (radio first), the default
Always on setting in the software will key the radio, just like putting a
brick on the key.

As a side note, although the N1MM Configurer suggests Always on as the
default for DTR and RTS on the radio port, with the K3 it would be better to
set these defaults to Always off - that way, making a change to the K3's
CONFIG menu without first changing the software configuration will not
result in a key-down condition.

73,
Rich VE3KI

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Re: [Elecraft] Feature request

2009-02-16 Thread Jim Brassell
I've got to go along with Joe on this.  The way I do split on an FT2000 now 
and all the radios I've used in the past is to set VFO B to VFO A's 
frequency (the DX frequency), select SPLIT, put VFO B's receiver in either 
my left or right ear, tune VFO B to the last guy the DX worked, and start my 
calling there.  I truly don't understand the advantage of an automatic 
split.  If you are not transmitting where the DX is listening, you will be a 
long time working him.  And what if he is down 5, not up 1?

73,

Jim, K4ZMV


- Original Message - 
From: Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com
To: 'Ian White GM3SEK' gm3...@ifwtech.co.uk; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 11:17 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Feature request



 I have to disagree ... quick split would cause too may
 other problems like losing the frequency if one has
 already set VFO B (subreciever) to the desired place.

 Except for actions explicitly designed to change frequency
 (tune the VFO, change band, recall a memory, etc.), the user
 interface should never change the frequency and it should
 never change the frequency of the other VFO.

 Any Quick split function should require an explicit
 input sequence ... perhaps Freq Enter, Split or XIT,
 set the offset, Split ... but the current Split
 function should not be overloaded with quick split.

 Even if Quick Split were a menu option for Split,
 the time to through the menu to change the function
 would be greater than the current multiple keystroke
 method of setting a specific split.  Since not every
 split is the same (5 to 25 KHz on phone vs. 1 to 5
 on CW in most cases) is useful only on one mode and
 only if the preset value happens to match the other
 station's offset.

 73,

   ... Joe, W4TV



 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ian
 White GM3SEK
 Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 3:28 AM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Feature request


 W0FK wrote:
 
 Having a quick split feature would be great! My IC-7800
 has that, and
 I miss it on the K3. Hold split, enter the up split
 frequency (up 1,
 up 5, etc.) and the seconnd VFO is there. No counting or adding.
 

 Quick split - otherwise known as auto split or pileup
 split - is
 an option that has been available in serious transceivers for almost
 twenty years.

 If this option was available and selected, then holding SPLIT would
 automate the following sequence which presently has to be
 done manually:

 1. Double-tap AB (reset VFO B, and sub-rx if present, to a
 known state)

 2. Hold SPLIT.

 3. Tune VFO B away from VFO A by a selected amount (+/- in
 1kHz steps,
 either by pre-selection or 'on the fly' - but the latter
 would require
 extensive error trapping).

 4. Turn sub-rx on (if it wasn't already on).

 5. Disable TX on VFO A frequency until SPLIT is canceled
 (error trapping
 for the A/B, REV and AB buttons).

 At present this whole sequence relies on the operator doing all the
 right things, and then continuing not to do any wrong things.  Errors
 are punished by major embarrassment (literally, world-class).

 Nevertheless, this function should only be an OPTION. It will not be
 needed by anyone who never works a pileup, is never in a hurry and/or
 never makes a mistake.



 -- 

 73 from Ian GM3SEK
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Re: [Elecraft] Sub Receiver jones...

2009-02-16 Thread w5ov
Jim,

Being in split mode and pressing *AND HOLDING* the REV button allows you
to listen on the split frequency until you release the REV button. Us
old Kenwood guys got used to the T-F Set button for this function.
It's not as good as having a dual receiver, but you can develop the skill
required to use it almost as effectively.

73,

Bob W5OV

 Listening to K5D last night made it obvious to me (I'm slow...) the
 benefit of a sub-receiver. The exchanges that occur by the pursuers
 are impossible to find by switching back and forth between pursued and
 pursuer frequencies. I'm assuming that the pursued will take the next
 call somewhere near the last one, maybe a bad assumption.

 Maybe next holiday season...

 73

 jim ab3cv
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[Elecraft] K3: Qick Split

2009-02-16 Thread Ken Kopp
Doesn't Quick Split assume the DX is -always- located a 
fixed number of kHz away from his TX'ing frequency? This 
is simply not the case, if this is what's is being lobbied for.

If the DX is actually an exact 5 kHz up, there will still be a 
need to change of one's TX frequency involved on almost every 
transmission ... or should be ... if one is an astute DX'er.  Do 
people actually simply go up five and blindly call?  Really?

K5D is an example ... they are spending hours listening DOWN.
I've worked them this way on four bands so far.  I did this when 
operating from there ... and other DX locations ... BTW.

My most-used control in working SPLIT is the A/B button.  A
quick poke of A/B and a tune of the A VFO to put it on the last 
worked station in the pileup and another poke of the A/B button
to put the that frequency in the B VFO.  How could this be simpler?

I'm an old poop.  Maybe I'm missing something 

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
 elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Qick Split

2009-02-16 Thread W0MU Mike Fatchett
Quick split is a single button that puts the radio in split and the other
vfo split x number of KC's away.  It just saves some button pushing.
Obviously if the station is working a weird split then you still have to
move the b vfo.

It sets the B vfo to the same mode moves it up 5 or 10. Sets the transmit to
B etc.

I have no clue how the 7800 did it as I never owned one.  

  

 


A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may
never get over. Ben Franklin
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken Kopp
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 10:49 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3: Qick Split

Doesn't Quick Split assume the DX is -always- located a fixed number of
kHz away from his TX'ing frequency? This is simply not the case, if this
is what's is being lobbied for.

If the DX is actually an exact 5 kHz up, there will still be a need to
change of one's TX frequency involved on almost every transmission ... or
should be ... if one is an astute DX'er.  Do people actually simply go up
five and blindly call?  Really?

K5D is an example ... they are spending hours listening DOWN.
I've worked them this way on four bands so far.  I did this when operating
from there ... and other DX locations ... BTW.

My most-used control in working SPLIT is the A/B button.  A quick poke of
A/B and a tune of the A VFO to put it on the last worked station in the
pileup and another poke of the A/B button to put the that frequency in the B
VFO.  How could this be simpler?

I'm an old poop.  Maybe I'm missing something 

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
 elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
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Re: [Elecraft] Sub Receiver jones...

2009-02-16 Thread W0MU Mike Fatchett
And for us Yaesu users it is a real pain in the but.  I am surprised that
the K3 would not be able to do dual in band receive or dual watch as some
would call it. 


A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may
never get over. Ben Franklin
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of w...@w5ov.com
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 10:46 AM
To: Jim Miller
Cc: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Sub Receiver jones...

Jim,

Being in split mode and pressing *AND HOLDING* the REV button allows you to
listen on the split frequency until you release the REV button. Us old
Kenwood guys got used to the T-F Set button for this function.
It's not as good as having a dual receiver, but you can develop the skill
required to use it almost as effectively.

73,

Bob W5OV

 Listening to K5D last night made it obvious to me (I'm slow...) the 
 benefit of a sub-receiver. The exchanges that occur by the pursuers 
 are impossible to find by switching back and forth between pursued and 
 pursuer frequencies. I'm assuming that the pursued will take the next 
 call somewhere near the last one, maybe a bad assumption.

 Maybe next holiday season...

 73

 jim ab3cv
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[Elecraft] cw to data questions

2009-02-16 Thread Gary Lee
How do I turn text dec off?  Tried issuing swh40; no dice.  I thought it 
would act as a toggle.
Also, noticed when sending that ..-- does not immediately kick me out of 
transmit mode as the manual states.

Running firmware 2.78.  Issuing commands with hyperterminal.

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Re: [Elecraft] Feature request

2009-02-16 Thread W0MU Mike Fatchett
The B vfo is not locked.  You can still move it.

Having the 2nd receiver in the K3 makes it easier.

Believe it or not many users do not have the 2nd receiver.

I rarely ever use it for CW. Since the splits are normally just a few KC's.
I use XIT and RIT since I can't split A and B in my headphones, yet. 


A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may
never get over. Ben Franklin
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Brassell
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 10:45 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Feature request

I've got to go along with Joe on this.  The way I do split on an FT2000 now
and all the radios I've used in the past is to set VFO B to VFO A's
frequency (the DX frequency), select SPLIT, put VFO B's receiver in either
my left or right ear, tune VFO B to the last guy the DX worked, and start my
calling there.  I truly don't understand the advantage of an automatic
split.  If you are not transmitting where the DX is listening, you will be a
long time working him.  And what if he is down 5, not up 1?

73,

Jim, K4ZMV


- Original Message -
From: Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com
To: 'Ian White GM3SEK' gm3...@ifwtech.co.uk; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 11:17 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Feature request



 I have to disagree ... quick split would cause too may
 other problems like losing the frequency if one has
 already set VFO B (subreciever) to the desired place.

 Except for actions explicitly designed to change frequency
 (tune the VFO, change band, recall a memory, etc.), the user
 interface should never change the frequency and it should
 never change the frequency of the other VFO.

 Any Quick split function should require an explicit
 input sequence ... perhaps Freq Enter, Split or XIT,
 set the offset, Split ... but the current Split
 function should not be overloaded with quick split.

 Even if Quick Split were a menu option for Split,
 the time to through the menu to change the function
 would be greater than the current multiple keystroke
 method of setting a specific split.  Since not every
 split is the same (5 to 25 KHz on phone vs. 1 to 5
 on CW in most cases) is useful only on one mode and
 only if the preset value happens to match the other
 station's offset.

 73,

   ... Joe, W4TV



 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ian
 White GM3SEK
 Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 3:28 AM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Feature request


 W0FK wrote:
 
 Having a quick split feature would be great! My IC-7800
 has that, and
 I miss it on the K3. Hold split, enter the up split
 frequency (up 1,
 up 5, etc.) and the seconnd VFO is there. No counting or adding.
 

 Quick split - otherwise known as auto split or pileup
 split - is
 an option that has been available in serious transceivers for almost
 twenty years.

 If this option was available and selected, then holding SPLIT would
 automate the following sequence which presently has to be
 done manually:

 1. Double-tap AB (reset VFO B, and sub-rx if present, to a
 known state)

 2. Hold SPLIT.

 3. Tune VFO B away from VFO A by a selected amount (+/- in
 1kHz steps,
 either by pre-selection or 'on the fly' - but the latter
 would require
 extensive error trapping).

 4. Turn sub-rx on (if it wasn't already on).

 5. Disable TX on VFO A frequency until SPLIT is canceled
 (error trapping
 for the A/B, REV and AB buttons).

 At present this whole sequence relies on the operator doing all the
 right things, and then continuing not to do any wrong things.  Errors
 are punished by major embarrassment (literally, world-class).

 Nevertheless, this function should only be an OPTION. It will not be
 needed by anyone who never works a pileup, is never in a hurry and/or
 never makes a mistake.



 -- 

 73 from Ian GM3SEK
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Configuring N1MM to send CW

2009-02-16 Thread W0MU Mike Fatchett
Cool.  Another feature that should be added to the list of cool features you
might not know about.

I use an MK2R+ so I never looked at the keying side.  

Lots of gems in the K3. 


A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may
never get over. Ben Franklin
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Richard Ferch
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 10:33 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Configuring N1MM to send CW

W0MU wrote:

 To key cw you will need some type of keying circuitry.  You have to 
 have a
keying \
 transistor to send CW.

Not true with the K3, Mike. Unlike most other radios, the K3 accepts CW and
PTT keying signals on DTR and/or RTS without any need for a keying circuit -
see the manual p. 18, near the bottom of the left column. The N1MM
documentation has not caught up with this.

If you have N1MM Logger configured for CW on DTR and PTT on RTS on the radio
control port and you set the K3's CONFIG:PTT-KEY option set to RTS-DTR, then
the Logger will key both PTT and CW with just a straight RS-232 cable and no
other connections. If you only want to key one of CW and PTT via this port
(for example, if you key CW with a Winkey on a different serial port), then
you can adjust the configuration accordingly (e.g. RTS set to PTT and DTR
set to Always off, with the CONFIG:PTT-KEY set to RTS-OFF).

To make this work, you must make the software and the radio configurations
match, and you must do it in the right order. First, go into the N1MM
Logger's Configurer and change the configuration on the appropriate control
line(s) from Always on to the desired value (PTT or CW). After you have
both DTR and RTS set to the desired values in the software, and you have
made sure that there is a check mark in the CW/Other column beside the port
you are using for CW, *only then* go into the K3's CONFIG:PTT-KEY menu item
and set it accordingly.

If you make the changes in the reverse order (radio first), the default
Always on setting in the software will key the radio, just like putting a
brick on the key.

As a side note, although the N1MM Configurer suggests Always on as the
default for DTR and RTS on the radio port, with the K3 it would be better to
set these defaults to Always off - that way, making a change to the K3's
CONFIG menu without first changing the software configuration will not
result in a key-down condition.

73,
Rich VE3KI

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Re: [Elecraft] 45A APP Crimper

2009-02-16 Thread Rich


Why not trim off a few strands of the #10 to make it fit and then, if
necessary, cover with heat shrink?  Sounds much better than another
solder/butt joint and would have less resistance. 

While discussing APP's, I was taught that connections should ONLY be
crimped.  In the nuclear power industry connections that were just soldered
or soldered and crimped were rejected by QA as they would fail due to
vibrations, movement, etc. at the transition from the soldered area to the
unsoldered portion of the wire.  Any that I have ever made have always
failed at this transition.  Essentially ALL connections in the electrical
power/distribution industry are crimped for this reason. and they handle
many more amps than a K3.

Rich,
KE0X

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/8-AWG-adapter-tp2334886p2336384.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] K3: Qiuck Split

2009-02-16 Thread David and Dianne on Comcast
It's an excellent feature that automates several keystrokes and gets you 
there or 'near there' in a real hurry.

If you chase DX seriously have had it  before you will want it again. If 
ICOM has done it for about 20 years why can't the K3?

For the life of me I cannot fathom how some of you guys obsess endlessly 
about enhancements for obscure operating modes but get so defensive over 
one that is lacking and really needed for serious SSB or CW DX work.

Flame on at my expense.

73 de N1LQ-Dave
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Qiuck Split

2009-02-16 Thread Jim
Amen!

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David and Dianne on
Comcast
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 1:28 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3: Qiuck Split

It's an excellent feature that automates several keystrokes and gets you 
there or 'near there' in a real hurry.

If you chase DX seriously have had it  before you will want it again. If 
ICOM has done it for about 20 years why can't the K3?

For the life of me I cannot fathom how some of you guys obsess endlessly 
about enhancements for obscure operating modes but get so defensive over 
one that is lacking and really needed for serious SSB or CW DX work.

Flame on at my expense.

73 de N1LQ-Dave
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Re: [Elecraft] 45A APP Crimper

2009-02-16 Thread W0MU Mike Fatchett
I don't think we are subjected to the same issues as a Nuclear plant.  I
have had numerous crimped purchased cables fail because of a lousy crimp job
covered up by heat shrink.

If you are working on very small wires with Anderson connectors I am not
sure how you could ever get it crimp right. 


A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may
never get over. Ben Franklin
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Rich
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 11:24 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 45A APP Crimper



Why not trim off a few strands of the #10 to make it fit and then, if
necessary, cover with heat shrink?  Sounds much better than another
solder/butt joint and would have less resistance. 

While discussing APP's, I was taught that connections should ONLY be
crimped.  In the nuclear power industry connections that were just soldered
or soldered and crimped were rejected by QA as they would fail due to
vibrations, movement, etc. at the transition from the soldered area to the
unsoldered portion of the wire.  Any that I have ever made have always
failed at this transition.  Essentially ALL connections in the electrical
power/distribution industry are crimped for this reason. and they handle
many more amps than a K3.

Rich,
KE0X

--
View this message in context:
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Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] Sub Receiver jones...

2009-02-16 Thread Vic K2VCO
Jim Miller wrote:
 Listening to K5D last night made it obvious to me (I'm slow...) the
 benefit of a sub-receiver. The exchanges that occur by the pursuers
 are impossible to find by switching back and forth between pursued and
 pursuer frequencies. I'm assuming that the pursued will take the next
 call somewhere near the last one, maybe a bad assumption.

Some DX operators (the ones I like) go through a pileup in one direction, 
moving up or 
down a discrete amount each time. Then they either 'snap back' to the other end 
of the 
pileup, or tune back the way they came. This is the best case, because if you 
are thinking 
you can predict where to call accurately -- and only a small percentage of 
callers are 
thinking!

Others hop around between two general areas. You can imagine them flipping back 
and forth 
each time. If you detect this, it can be helpful.

Some operators pretty much listen in one spot, plus or minus a few hundred Hz. 
for a long 
time. Pretty soon everyone learns where this is!

Sometimes a guy will just randomly pick someone to answer with no discernible 
pattern. 
This can be frustrating.

You really do need two receivers to spot the pattern. It can be hard when the 
DX is 
working stations that you can't hear.

I know that I have spent long periods in pileups without results until I get 
the pattern. 
Then -- blam, one shot.
-- 
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Qiuck Split

2009-02-16 Thread W0MU Mike Fatchett
I will toast to that! 


A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may
never get over. Ben Franklin
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 11:30 AM
To: 'David and Dianne on Comcast'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Qiuck Split

Amen!

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David and Dianne on
Comcast
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 1:28 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3: Qiuck Split

It's an excellent feature that automates several keystrokes and gets you
there or 'near there' in a real hurry.

If you chase DX seriously have had it  before you will want it again. If
ICOM has done it for about 20 years why can't the K3?

For the life of me I cannot fathom how some of you guys obsess endlessly
about enhancements for obscure operating modes but get so defensive over one
that is lacking and really needed for serious SSB or CW DX work.

Flame on at my expense.

73 de N1LQ-Dave
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Qiuck Split

2009-02-16 Thread Stephen Prior
Me too!

73 Stephen G4SJP


On 16/02/2009 18:34, W0MU Mike Fatchett w...@w0mu.com wrote:

 
 I will toast to that!
 
 
 A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may
 never get over. Ben Franklin
 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim
 Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 11:30 AM
 To: 'David and Dianne on Comcast'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Qiuck Split
 
 Amen!
 
 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David and Dianne on
 Comcast
 Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 1:28 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3: Qiuck Split
 
 It's an excellent feature that automates several keystrokes and gets you
 there or 'near there' in a real hurry.
 
 If you chase DX seriously have had it  before you will want it again. If
 ICOM has done it for about 20 years why can't the K3?
 
 For the life of me I cannot fathom how some of you guys obsess endlessly
 about enhancements for obscure operating modes but get so defensive over one
 that is lacking and really needed for serious SSB or CW DX work.
 
 Flame on at my expense.
 
 73 de N1LQ-Dave
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Re: [Elecraft] cw to data questions

2009-02-16 Thread Don Wilhelm
Gary,

The TEXT DEC button acts like the menus - you must change VFO B to ON or 
OFF and VFO A changes the threshold for the decoder.

The 'IM' character issued from the paddles should stop transmission 
without a pause.  If there is a character buffered by the K3 (as there 
will be if using the K3 utility or a memory), then the buffer must clear 
before transmission will stop.
If you simply stop sending, transmission will stop 4 seconds later.

73,
Don W3FPR 

Gary Lee wrote:
 How do I turn text dec off?  Tried issuing swh40; no dice.  I thought it 
 would act as a toggle.
 Also, noticed when sending that ..-- does not immediately kick me out of 
 transmit mode as the manual states.

 Running firmware 2.78.  Issuing commands with hyperterminal.

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 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
 Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.10.25/1955 - Release Date: 02/16/09 
 06:55:00

   
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Re: [Elecraft] Sub Receiver jones...

2009-02-16 Thread Lyle Johnson
 ...I am surprised that
 the K3 would not be able to do dual in band receive or dual watch as some
 would call it. 

Early in the design process of the K3 we explored various methods by 
which we could obtain dual receive capability.  Such capability was a 
basic design requirement.

Putting in a default dual watch system means an additional mixer and 
synthesizer while providing limited flexibility.  A lower-performance 
second receiver would not stand up to the severe operating conditions in 
which we wanted the K3 to excel.  Either approach would add significant 
cost to the basic radio, requiring people who did not want such features 
to pay for them while denying a high-performance second receiver option 
to those who might want one.

In the end, we concluded the best approach was an independent, 
high-performance second receiver.  The KRX3 is the result.  It provides 
the same performance as the main receiver.  It enables diversity 
reception.  Users of the K3's diversity mode quickly realize its 
benefits when chasing weak signals.

And the price is shockingly low!

Disclaimer: I am *not* a disinterested person in this :-)

73,

Lyle KK7P
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[Elecraft] KRX3 and PR6

2009-02-16 Thread S Sacco
So, if I wanted to get a KRX3 to use for diversity reception using a
separate antenna, and specifically, wanted to use it on 6M, it looks to me
like I would not be able to interface another PR6 (to go along with the one
that I already have on the radio).

True?

73,
Steve NN4X
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Re: [Elecraft] KRX3 and PR6

2009-02-16 Thread Lyle Johnson
 So, if I wanted to get a KRX3 to use for diversity reception using a 
 separate antenna, and specifically, wanted to use it on 6M, it looks to 
 me like I would not be able to interface another PR6 (to go along with 
 the one that I already have on the radio).

If you need the PR6 on the second antenna, then you could add a PR6 to 
the rear panel Aux RF jack that feeds the KRX3.  This means that the 
KRX3 would not be wired to use the unused antenna position on the 
KAT3, if installed.

73,

Lyle KK7P
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Quick Split

2009-02-16 Thread John Huffman
Quick Split has gotten me DX contacts while the competition is messing 
with knobs.  If you are a CW op, 90% of splits are up 1khz.  I suppose 
90% of SSB splits are up 5khz. 

It's a great thing to be able to automate that task.  After all, this is 
a radio that can send RTTY with the paddles.  One more bell or whistle 
won't change the character of the radio.

73 de K1ESE
John


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[Elecraft] Using USB mode for PSK31 rather than DATA A

2009-02-16 Thread Steven . Zabarnick
After all this discussion of power control in DATA A mode vs SSB, I decided
to try using PSK31 with USB mode, rather than DATA A. I changed the MIC SEL
menu item to Line IN and adjusted the ALC meter to 4-5 bars using the MIC
GAIN control. The PSK31 power output appeared to closely match the K3 power
setting. Unfortunately, I received horrendous feedback about the widthand
IMD of my signal -- when I returned to DATA A mode, my signal width and IMD
returned back to acceptable values.

Steve N9SZ

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Re: [Elecraft] Sub Receiver jones...

2009-02-16 Thread Steven . Zabarnick
Another solution is to get an LP-PAN panadapter. This gives a great
panadapter plus two PowerSDR receivers. This weekend I was able to monitor
K5D on the K3 and/or the primary PowerSDR receiver and listen to (and
watch) the pileup on the PowerSDR subreceiver. PowerSDR allows you to put
the pileup in one computer speaker and the DX in the other. Pretty cool!

I only wish that PowerSDR receiver un-muting after transmission was a
little faster. There is a little too much pause there.

Steve N9SZ

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[Elecraft] {Spam?} Re: K3 power creep

2009-02-16 Thread Philip Leonard WVØT
Same here, I have to keep an eye on it all the time.


Henk Remijn PA5KT wrote:
 Same here.
 
 Its only on AFSK-A, not on FSK D.
 
 Henk PA5KT
 
 Joe Planisky schreef:
 Hi Ron,

 I can't comment on whether this is normal or a problem, but I can  
 confirm that I see the same thing in AFSK-A mode, so it's not just  
 you :-) I believe it is ALC related.

 73
 --
 Joe KB8AP



 On Feb 15, 2009, at 1:25 PM, Ron W3ZV wrote:

   
 ...
 
   
 Typically
 when changing from 300 watts to 250, I would see 180 out on first
 transmission, which would creep toward 250 during the transmission.  
 This
 is what show on my amp PO meter, so it is somewhat less than a  
 precision
 measurement.

 ...

 Is this normal, perhaps ALC related, or a problem.

 Ron W3ZV
 
 

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[Elecraft] K3, RF gain acts funny

2009-02-16 Thread Dave Anderson, K4SV
Hi All,

I have joined the ranks of K3 owners and bought a kit which arrived late last 
week.  Got it assembled and working late last night.  

My K3 is equipped as follows
100w
Second receiver
ATU
RX antenna/Xverter ports

Filter
2.7 SSB (stock)
400hz 8 pole

Appears to work OK but when I reduce the RF gain normally the S meter will 
increase as I turn down the gain.  On my main receiver this does not work 
correctly.  As I turn down the RF gain, CCW, the S meter increases until it 
reaches S4 and stops increasing.  By ear the RF gain continues to be reduced 
but it acts funny.

My second receiver works as you would expect it should where the S meter 
increases until it reaches 60 over 9.

Has any one seen this before?  Corrective action?

Cute little radio so far.

Thanks in advance,
 
Dave Anderson, K4SV
Tryon, NC
 828 777-5088
 
www.K4SV.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Using USB mode for PSK31 rather than DATA A

2009-02-16 Thread Steven . Zabarnick
No I did not turn off compression. I will give this a try. Has anyone else
tried using PSK31 with USB mode?

Did you turn compression off?

Bob NW8L

On Mon, Feb 16, 2009 at 12:12 PM,  steven.zabarn...@notes.udayton.edu
wrote:
 After all this discussion of power control in DATA A mode vs SSB, I
decided
 to try using PSK31 with USB mode, rather than DATA A. I changed the MIC
SEL
 menu item to Line IN and adjusted the ALC meter to 4-5 bars using the MIC
 GAIN control. The PSK31 power output appeared to closely match the K3
power
 setting. Unfortunately, I received horrendous feedback about the widthand
 IMD of my signal -- when I returned to DATA A mode, my signal width and
IMD
 returned back to acceptable values.

 Steve N9SZ

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Quick Split

2009-02-16 Thread David Gilbert

No flame intended, but it certainly doesn't take several keystrokes. 

As a test, I set my sub-receiver to 20m SSB and my main receiver to 40m 
CW (I'm beta testing the software for independent receive).  All it took 
was to tap A - B, hold the SAME BUTTON for split, and spin the VFO B 
knob to be ready to go for a split transmission on 40m CW.  It took less 
than two seconds for everything.  It almost seems like some forethought 
by Elecraft went into the choice of buttons to use ;) 

I bet it would take at least two seconds to cycle through a few stacked 
fixed offsets (say 1/2/5 KHz) by holding the split button multiple times.

For myself, I simply don't consider it an enhancement to clutter up the 
menus with capabilities that have already been addressed, but maybe I'm 
just more of a knob twirler and less of a button pusher.  To each his 
own ...

73,
Dave   AB7E



Dave - N1LQ wrote:
 Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 1:28 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3: Qiuck Split

 It's an excellent feature that automates several keystrokes and gets you
 there or 'near there' in a real hurry.

 If you chase DX seriously have had it  before you will want it again. If
 ICOM has done it for about 20 years why can't the K3?

 For the life of me I cannot fathom how some of you guys obsess endlessly
 about enhancements for obscure operating modes but get so defensive over one
 that is lacking and really needed for serious SSB or CW DX work.

 Flame on at my expense.

 73 de N1LQ-Dave
 __
 

   
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Re: [Elecraft] Using USB mode for PSK31 rather than DATA A

2009-02-16 Thread Bob Cunnings
That's it - you must turn compression off, one of the virtues of DATA
A is that it does this for you automatically. With compression off it
should work fine.

See pg. 31 of the K3 Owner's Manual where it says:

Soundcard-based data communications can be done
using LSB or USB mode. However, DATA modes
offer several benefits not available in SSB modes.
If you prefer to use LSB or USB, you'll need to
manually set CMP to 0 to prevent data signal
distortion...

Bob NW8L

On Mon, Feb 16, 2009 at 12:47 PM,  steven.zabarn...@notes.udayton.edu wrote:
 No I did not turn off compression. I will give this a try. Has anyone else
 tried using PSK31 with USB mode?

Did you turn compression off?

Bob NW8L

 On Mon, Feb 16, 2009 at 12:12 PM,  steven.zabarn...@notes.udayton.edu
 wrote:
 After all this discussion of power control in DATA A mode vs SSB, I
 decided
 to try using PSK31 with USB mode, rather than DATA A. I changed the MIC
 SEL
 menu item to Line IN and adjusted the ALC meter to 4-5 bars using the MIC
 GAIN control. The PSK31 power output appeared to closely match the K3
 power
 setting. Unfortunately, I received horrendous feedback about the widthand
 IMD of my signal -- when I returned to DATA A mode, my signal width and
 IMD
 returned back to acceptable values.

 Steve N9SZ

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[Elecraft] K5D

2009-02-16 Thread Mike, W9QS
K3 at 10 watts and G5RV got them on 30 Meters last night.  I hope for at least 
5 bands if possible.

73,72

Mike, W9QS
EX: KN6TBP (1956), K1DGQ, DL4KM, K5LJN, W9FRR, W9KVF

K3, K2, OHR500, Norcal 20, SP1

Fists #12327, FP #268, OOTC #4423, QRPARCI #9521


  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Quick Split

2009-02-16 Thread w5ov
Amen!


 No flame intended, but it certainly doesn't take several keystrokes.

 As a test, I set my sub-receiver to 20m SSB and my main receiver to 40m
 CW (I'm beta testing the software for independent receive).  All it took
 was to tap A - B, hold the SAME BUTTON for split, and spin the VFO B
 knob to be ready to go for a split transmission on 40m CW.  It took less
 than two seconds for everything.  It almost seems like some forethought
 by Elecraft went into the choice of buttons to use ;)

 I bet it would take at least two seconds to cycle through a few stacked
 fixed offsets (say 1/2/5 KHz) by holding the split button multiple times.

 For myself, I simply don't consider it an enhancement to clutter up the
 menus with capabilities that have already been addressed, but maybe I'm
 just more of a knob twirler and less of a button pusher.  To each his
 own ...

 73,
 Dave   AB7E



 Dave - N1LQ wrote:
 Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 1:28 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3: Qiuck Split

 It's an excellent feature that automates several keystrokes and gets
 you
 there or 'near there' in a real hurry.

 If you chase DX seriously have had it  before you will want it again.
 If
 ICOM has done it for about 20 years why can't the K3?

 For the life of me I cannot fathom how some of you guys obsess
 endlessly
 about enhancements for obscure operating modes but get so defensive
 over one
 that is lacking and really needed for serious SSB or CW DX work.

 Flame on at my expense.

 73 de N1LQ-Dave
 __



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[Elecraft] Deaf K3 after HI RFI

2009-02-16 Thread Peter
Hi

I lost my RX this weekend in a contest
I got several HI RFI warnings and its ends with a low RX.
Do do hear strong station with low signals.
There is no difference in strength  if I use ant1 or ant 2. The main RX 
or the sub rx.

So I guess there is an short or an interrupt in the RX circuit.
The power output is OK on all bands,
If I'm correct this means that the problems is before the bandpass 
filters since the power get true them.

Any clue where to start looking at?

Peter
PC2A

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Re: [Elecraft] Using USB mode for PSK31 rather than DATA A

2009-02-16 Thread Bill Johnson
If you used the equalizer you will also need to flatten the response as
well.  I have not used it in SSB mode.  I prefer using narrower filter.


73,

Bill
K9YEQ
K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
steven.zabarn...@notes.udayton.edu

No I did not turn off compression. I will give this a try. Has anyone else
tried using PSK31 with USB mode?

Did you turn compression off?

Bob NW8L

On Mon, Feb 16, 2009 at 12:12 PM,  steven.zabarn...@notes.udayton.edu
wrote:
 After all this discussion of power control in DATA A mode vs SSB, I
decided
 to try using PSK31 with USB mode, rather than DATA A. I changed the MIC
SEL
 menu item to Line IN and adjusted the ALC meter to 4-5 bars using the MIC
 GAIN control. The PSK31 power output appeared to closely match the K3
power
 setting. Unfortunately, I received horrendous feedback about the widthand
 IMD of my signal -- when I returned to DATA A mode, my signal width and
IMD
 returned back to acceptable values.

 Steve N9SZ

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Re: [Elecraft] K3, RF gain acts funny

2009-02-16 Thread Julius Fazekas n2wn

Dave,

I had a similar problem.

I hate to suggest this out of turn, because it involves pulling the front
panel, but if you're game...

Remove the front panel so you can see the three solder terminals of the RF
gain pot. Look at them closely and confirm the solder connection is good on
all three. If the connection looks bad, re solder it.

On my K3 I noticed that the center pin did not look like the solder took to
the wire. This may or may not have caused my problem, but it is worth a
looksee, and may fix your problem.

I'd be curious to know what you find.

73,
Julius
n2wn


Dave Anderson, K4SV wrote:
 
 Hi All,
 
 I have joined the ranks of K3 owners and bought a kit which arrived late
 last week.  Got it assembled and working late last night.  
 
 My K3 is equipped as follows
 100w
 Second receiver
 ATU
 RX antenna/Xverter ports
 
 Filter
 2.7 SSB (stock)
 400hz 8 pole
 
 Appears to work OK but when I reduce the RF gain normally the S meter will
 increase as I turn down the gain.  On my main receiver this does not work
 correctly.  As I turn down the RF gain, CCW, the S meter increases until
 it reaches S4 and stops increasing.  By ear the RF gain continues to be
 reduced but it acts funny.
 
 My second receiver works as you would expect it should where the S meter
 increases until it reaches 60 over 9.
 
 Has any one seen this before?  Corrective action?
 
 Cute little radio so far.
 
 Thanks in advance,
  
 Dave Anderson, K4SV
 Tryon, NC
  828 777-5088
  
 www.K4SV.com
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Re: [Elecraft] K3, RF gain acts funny

2009-02-16 Thread Julius Fazekas n2wn

My gain did not work at all and the S-Meter never adjusted lower than S9 ...
so your problem may be different.

Still it may be worth a look, if no one has a better suggestion.

73,
Julius
n2wn

:music:



Dave Anderson, K4SV wrote:
 
 Hi All,
 
 I have joined the ranks of K3 owners and bought a kit which arrived late
 last week.  Got it assembled and working late last night.  
 
 My K3 is equipped as follows
 100w
 Second receiver
 ATU
 RX antenna/Xverter ports
 
 Filter
 2.7 SSB (stock)
 400hz 8 pole
 
 Appears to work OK but when I reduce the RF gain normally the S meter will
 increase as I turn down the gain.  On my main receiver this does not work
 correctly.  As I turn down the RF gain, CCW, the S meter increases until
 it reaches S4 and stops increasing.  By ear the RF gain continues to be
 reduced but it acts funny.
 
 My second receiver works as you would expect it should where the S meter
 increases until it reaches 60 over 9.
 
 Has any one seen this before?  Corrective action?
 
 Cute little radio so far.
 
 Thanks in advance,
  
 Dave Anderson, K4SV
 Tryon, NC
  828 777-5088
  
 www.K4SV.com
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Quick Split

2009-02-16 Thread Val


 Quick Split has gotten me DX contacts while the competition is messing
 with knobs.  If you are a CW op, 90% of splits are up 1khz.  I suppose
 90% of SSB splits are up 5khz.

 It's a great thing to be able to automate that task.  After all, this is
 a radio that can send RTTY with the paddles.  One more bell or whistle
 won't change the character of the radio.

 73 de K1ESE
 John

Amen John. You are right, 90% of CW splits are up 1. That's why, while 
waiting for real quick split, I  am using sort of it. My VFO B is always 
linked to VFO A plus 1 kHz.  Only one  press SPLIT when hear UP and my TX 
frq is up 1.

73 Val, LZ1VB 

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[Elecraft] K3 Mods - Unauthorized Shortcuts

2009-02-16 Thread Bill W4ZV

I finally got around to installing mods in units #1361 and #2183. 
The latter only needed a few mods but #1361 (including KRX3) needed the
following:

K3 AF Mod (K3AFMDKT)
K3 Synthesizer ALC
K3 AF Output
KPA3 12V Sense
Front Panel Mike Circuit
Rear Panel RS-232/Audio RFI Immunity

These shortcuts (not authorized by Elecraft) worked for me in the following
order:

1.  I did the RFC47 part of K3 AF Mod (K3AFMDKT) first by removing the top
and bottom front covers.  As others have previously noted, it's possible to
remove RFC47 from the bottom without removing the KRX3 to gain access to the
top side of the board.  I used a Radio Shack solder sucker to remove solder
from the bottom holes but my existing RFC47 did not drop out the other side
as some have reported.  I used a fine point to push the leads down and then
grabbed the RFC with needlenose pliers from the top side.  Once RFC47 is
removed, it's a simple job to install the new one in the existing holes on
the bottom side.  Later you'll install the resistors that go on KIO3 when
you get to step 5 below.

2.  While you have the bottom front cover off, you can install N8LP's R8/R9
mod to improve IF out sensitivity (see the LP-PAN Yahoo group files for more
info) and also, if you have an older unit, the Hardware AGC and CW Keying
Rise Time mods since they are in the same area of the RF Board exposed by
removing the bottom front cover.  When you finish, reinstall the bottom
front cover.

3.  To do the Synthesizer ALC mod, you add a 180k leaded resistor to the
synthesizer board(s) mounted on the front panel.  By carefully cutting and
forming the resistor leads, it's possible to insert them into existing holes
on the synthesizer board(s) and then carefully solder each end, making sure
that the leads extending through the boards are not long enough to short to
the front shield.  In my case I also removed the top TMP cable from the left
(KRX3) board to avoid the possibility of nicking it with my soldering iron. 
I felt this was much easier than removing the KRX3 and synthesizer board(s)
per the instructions.  CAUTION:  If you're not sure this mod has been done,
you'll need to remove the synthesizer board(s) to confirm that R10 on the
board has not already been changed to 56k.  With the boards in place, you
cannot confirm this by measurements alone.  I was sure my synthesizer boards
had not been modified because of the age of my units. 

4.  Next I removed the left side cover (with the handle) to expose the back
side of the front panel MIC connector.  To install the Front Panel MIC
modification, you need to ground Pin 7 by running an insulated wire from it
to a nearby ground as shown in the mod instructions (right side of Fig 11). 
If you have a thin soldering iron, it's possible to do this without
disassembling the front panel (which is a pain to reassemble).  Confirm that
you have not shorted any adjacent pins and also check the the center pin of
the MIC connector shows a short to the outer shell.  Leave the top and side
covers off.

5.  Now remove the KIO3 and install all the components as instructed in the
K3AFMDKT, Rear Panel RFI Immunity and AF Amplifier Output mods.  I found it
easier to remove KIO3 with the side cover off after step 4 to avoid
interference with a TMP cable going to the KXV3's IF OUT.  After you finish
the side and top covers can be reinstalled.

6.  The 12V Sense mod can be done by removing the 4 screws holding the fan
assembly and letting it drop enough to give you access to install the diode
on the KPA3.

The procedure above is NOT AUTHORIZED by Elecraft and you shouldn't
attempt it unless you have the proper equipment (a thin ESD-safe soldering
iron like the CSI/Hakko 936, good lighting, magnifying visor, ESD work
surface, etc) and soldering experience.  But it worked for me and might be
of some help to others.  Proceed at your own risk!

73,  Bill  W4ZV



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[Elecraft] To Crimp or Not to Crimp...

2009-02-16 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Every time a discussion of crimpers comes up, someone wonders if crimping is
'better' and whether they should buy a crimping tool. 

Here's the scoop:

1) Crimping does not make a better connection than soldering. A properly
crimped connection is just as good as properly soldered connection. 

2) Proper crimping requires a quality crimper and knowledge about how to use
it correctly. Poorly crimped connections will force the current through a
relatively small, higher-resistance part of the wire, producing heat and
serious voltage drops.


So why would anyone use a crimper?

1) In a production manufacturing environment where many connections must be
made quickly, day in and day out, crimping is much, much faster than
soldering. The time savings quickly justifies the cost of the relatively
expensive crimping tools. 

2) Crimping does not require the assembler know how to solder, a significant
savings to many manufacturers in labor and training costs.

3) In some situations (but not ones in which Elecraft rigs are normally
used) soldered power connections are not allowed. These are generally
situations where extreme short circuits could produce enough heat to melt
the solder in an environment where the molten solder could do serious
damage. 

4) A crimper is faster and easier when working away from the bench,
especially when portable soldering equipment isn't handy or one is working
in tight quarters inside a vehicle or equipment (under the instrument board
of an automobile, for example). This seems to be the main justification for
buying crimpers I've heard from Hams. 


The Bottom Line:

Elecraft emphasizes soldering APP connectors in their documents because:

1) Most Hams are experienced and equipped to solder, but lack the experience
and tools for making good crimped connections.

2) The time saved by crimping becomes meaningless when making a small number
of connections, especially in a workshop environment. 

3) A good crimping tool is a significant expense. 

Ron AC7AC

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Using USB mode for PSK31 rather than DATA A

2009-02-16 Thread Julian, G4ILO



Bob Cunnings wrote:
 
 That's it - you must turn compression off, one of the virtues of DATA
 A is that it does this for you automatically. With compression off it
 should work fine.
 
Yes, you must turn it off. I forget every time I try this, which is one of
the reasons it's not a good workaround as far as I am concerned.

Also, you don't need 4 or 5 bars of ALC to keep the output flat across the
passband. Unfortunately the K3 ALC is not very progressive - on mine it's
one increment of the input to go from no bars to a flashing 3 bars. If you
set the level until ALC starts to appear, that will probably be all you
need.

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
http://www.g4ilo.com/ G4ILO's Shack   http://www.g4ilo.com/blog.html G4ILO's
Bloghttp://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html KComm for Elecraft K2 and K3 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Mods - Unauthorized Shortcuts

2009-02-16 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Bill Wrote:

6.  The 12V Sense mod can be done by removing the 4 screws holding the fan
assembly and letting it drop enough to give you access to install the diode
on the KPA3.

The procedure above is NOT AUTHORIZED by Elecraft and you shouldn't
attempt it unless you have the proper equipment (a thin ESD-safe soldering
iron like the CSI/Hakko 936, good lighting, magnifying visor, ESD work
surface, etc) and soldering experience.  But it worked for me and might be
of some help to others.  Proceed at your own risk!

---

Surely Bill was referring one of the other procedures he noted.

The 12V Sense mod *recommends* only removing the fan panel assembly. No
further disassembly is needed.

All of the procedures are written with one key point in mind: showing how
the job can be done with common tools in the safest possible manner. The
goal is to avoid someone smoking a part, causing damage to a board or
creating hidden damage that requires troubleshooting and additional repairs,
all in the interest of trying to save a few minutes in the first place. 

The procedures in the assembly manuals and modification documents are tested
on actual equipment with that goal in mind. 

Certainly, there are many ways to do most things, based on an individual's
experience, tools and preferences. Sometimes that's covered in the document,
such as when we show making a circuit change using either SMDs or leaded
parts. But, of course, those are only a few of the many variations one might
employ when deciding how to do a mod.

73,

Ron AC7AC 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Using USB mode for PSK31 rather than DATA A

2009-02-16 Thread hb9ari
Steve,

With my K3 , i use USB for PSK31 and i've set the
button PWR to 100W, the LINE (rear line input) to 50
and i adjust the output level of my sound card
with Tune mode of Digipan (a ~ single tone) to get ~ 50W average
output; during PSK31 transmission, i've an
average output power between 15 and 25 W depending upon transmitted text.
Sometimes, i do a little adjustment by lowering the audio
drive to NEVER get an average output power over 25W
(measured with LP-100A with a SWR = 1.4:1 and 1.1:1 on the
K3 (ATU ON) )
I do test with a 2nd instance of Digipan running
with a 2nd TX/RX (FT857) and a 2nd sound card; i get an IMD between
-24 and -28dB; it should be a little better ON AIR,
because i've a little proximity effect with my Winter
antenna at only 3 meters from my FT857at the balcony.
Anyway, these values are not too bad and are a little bit
better than the average of received stations (between -16 and -24dB).

73 QRO de Rudolf, HB9ARI

PS May be it's not the best setup, but it work for me and
i announce a 25W to my correspondents.

steven.zabarn...@notes.udayton.edu wrote:
 No I did not turn off compression. I will give this a try. Has anyone else
 tried using PSK31 with USB mode?

   
 Did you turn compression off?

 Bob NW8L
 

 On Mon, Feb 16, 2009 at 12:12 PM,  steven.zabarn...@notes.udayton.edu
 wrote:
   
 After all this discussion of power control in DATA A mode vs SSB, I
 
 decided
   
 to try using PSK31 with USB mode, rather than DATA A. I changed the MIC
 
 SEL
   
 menu item to Line IN and adjusted the ALC meter to 4-5 bars using the MIC
 GAIN control. The PSK31 power output appeared to closely match the K3
 
 power
   
 setting. Unfortunately, I received horrendous feedback about the widthand
 IMD of my signal -- when I returned to DATA A mode, my signal width and
 
 IMD
   
 returned back to acceptable values.

 Steve N9SZ
 

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Re: [Elecraft] 45A APP Crimper

2009-02-16 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Mike W0MU wrote:

I don't think we are subjected to the same issues as a Nuclear plant.  I
have had numerous crimped purchased cables fail because of a lousy crimp job
covered up by heat shrink.


-

That's why I'm a strong believer in strain relief, especially wherever a
cable flexes a lot or vibrates. No matter how the joint is made, if a wire
is allowed to move at the transition from flexible wire to rigid contact,
the metal will crystallize (fatigue) and break at that point. I've always
found that using proper strain relief and support for the wires which
assures that movement - including vibration - is spread over a length of the
wire and so no at one spot prevents breaking - at least in this millennium. 

In work on aircraft and military vehicles we always ensured the wire could
not move where it connected to the pin, no matter how that connection was
made: screw, crimp, solder, etc. 

People familiar with power systems have told me that the reason soldering is
not used (and illegal in many situations) is that wiring can get hot enough
under extreme conditions to actually melt solder. If that happened, the
resultant poor connection left once the solder is gone could heat enough to
start a fire or melt the wires, all without drawing enough current to open
the protective breakers. That can be catastrophic in many environments, not
the least of which is inside the wall of a home. 

Ron AC7AC



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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Quick Split

2009-02-16 Thread John Huffman
val -

Great idea!  I'll try that for a while.  It would seem to give me the 
function I'm looking for in a Quick Split.

73 de K1ESE
John

Val wrote:
   
 Quick Split has gotten me DX contacts while the competition is messing
 with knobs.  If you are a CW op, 90% of splits are up 1khz.  I suppose
 90% of SSB splits are up 5khz.

 It's a great thing to be able to automate that task.  After all, this is
 a radio that can send RTTY with the paddles.  One more bell or whistle
 won't change the character of the radio.

 73 de K1ESE
 John
 

 Amen John. You are right, 90% of CW splits are up 1. That's why, while 
 waiting for real quick split, I  am using sort of it. My VFO B is always 
 linked to VFO A plus 1 kHz.  Only one  press SPLIT when hear UP and my TX 
 frq is up 1.

 73 Val, LZ1VB 

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[Elecraft] K2 stacked over KAT100

2009-02-16 Thread John Wiener
Hi

I don't recall where I saw this but I think someone posted a smart  
way to keep the K2 from slipping slowly off the back ot the KAT100  
while hitting the buttons.

Can someone direct me to it?

Thanks!

John
AB8O
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Mods - Unauthorized Shortcuts

2009-02-16 Thread Bill W4ZV



Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
 
 Bill Wrote:
 
 6.  The 12V Sense mod can be done by removing the 4 screws holding the fan
 assembly and letting it drop enough to give you access to install the
 diode
 on the KPA3.
 
 The procedure above is NOT AUTHORIZED by Elecraft and you
 shouldn't
 attempt it unless you have the proper equipment (a thin ESD-safe soldering
 iron like the CSI/Hakko 936, good lighting, magnifying visor, ESD work
 surface, etc) and soldering experience.  But it worked for me and might be
 of some help to others.  Proceed at your own risk!
 
 ---
 
 Surely Bill was referring one of the other procedures he noted.
 
 The 12V Sense mod *recommends* only removing the fan panel assembly. No
 further disassembly is needed.
 

Yes my caveat was for all of the above.  :-)

73,  Bill

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[Elecraft] K3 Help with KRX3 Installation PL2 Error?

2009-02-16 Thread The Smiths

I've seen PLL errors when there is an SMD resistor near the pem nut that has 
been crushed by improper tightening, or lack of lock washer placed behind the 
board.  Look at your PCB, and see if you can find any cracked parts going up to 
the TMP connetor output leading to the Sub rec. Synth board.

Also, try swaping the TMP cables between Synth board #1 and Syth board #2 to 
help confirm where the problem is.  Hope this gets you started in the right 
direction

 

Micahel

N6MQL

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[Elecraft] k3 6m birdy?

2009-02-16 Thread TMorton
I have a birdy on 6m. The KRX3 is installed. When in SSB with 2.7 hz 
filter, the birdy goes from 50116 to 50119. However, if I put 50.118 in 
sub rcvr and listen on VFO A on 50.115 and hit SUB, there is no birdy 
on VFO B. I am using a pair of stereo speakers/or stereo headset while 
doing this. When I change B to A via A/B, then birdy appears...any idea 
what's happening?
TI5KD was spotted on 50.118 and that's how I found the birdyI sent a 
packet spot to TI5KD asking Keko to beam CX and listen on .115; that's 
how I discovered the above. Transmitting on 115 and monitoring both 115 
and 118.
73
Tom
CX7TT
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 stacked over KAT100

2009-02-16 Thread Don Wilhelm
John,

In the KAT100 kit, there are 2 anti-slide brackets PN E100150 that mount 
on the top rear of the KAT100 enclosure.  The projections on these 
brackets fit into the recessed holes in the rear feet of your K2.  Page 
30 of the KAT100 manual shows how they are mounted.

If you ordered the KAT100-2 (the one that mounts in the EC-2 enclosure), 
those brackets are not included.  Normally the KPA100 is mounted in the 
EC-2 with the KAT100, and the K2 should not be stacked on top of that 
assembly because it restricts the air flow.

73,
Don W3FPR

John Wiener wrote:
 Hi

 I don't recall where I saw this but I think someone posted a smart  
 way to keep the K2 from slipping slowly off the back ot the KAT100  
 while hitting the buttons.

 Can someone direct me to it?

 Thanks!

 John
 AB8O
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Re: [Elecraft] Feature request

2009-02-16 Thread Ian White GM3SEK
Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:

I have to disagree ... quick split would cause too may
other problems like losing the frequency if one has
already set VFO B (subreciever) to the desired place.

Except for actions explicitly designed to change frequency
(tune the VFO, change band, recall a memory, etc.), the user
interface should never change the frequency and it should
never change the frequency of the other VFO.


This shows why everything needs to be an OPTION - there are so many 
different operating styles.

The industry-standard quick split function is designed for people 
whose operating style is to tune the DX station on VFO A, and then want 
a quick way to set the up the rig to call on a split frequency using VFO 
B (and the sub-rx if available).

Quick split has become an industry standard because significant numbers 
of users do find it valuable, for two major reasons:

1. Speed
2. Reducing the risk of errors - above all, avoiding the cardinal sin of 
transmitting on the DX frequency.

Users of quick split know all about its disadvantages too. Obviously, 
quick split will not be suitable for all circumstances (it would be 
great to have the option to make it a PF toggle). Obviously, any 
existing VFO B frequency will be lost. Also any pre-configured split can 
only be an individual operator's best guess, so it needs to be 
configurable; but *any* offset is better than zero - see point 2 above.

Even people who value quick split will only use it when the advantages 
override those disadvantages.  They are also aware of others who would 
not like this function, wouldn't need it, or simply can't see how any 
sane person could ask for such a thing. That's fine, because it is being 
requested as an *option*. If Elecraft does decide to introduce it, there 
would be no adverse impact on anyone who doesn't wish to enable it.

It may also be well to remember that the *only* purpose of discussion 
about feature requests is to set out the issues for Elecraft to 
consider. The rest is up to Elecraft.


-- 

73 from Ian GM3SEK
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 stacked over KAT100

2009-02-16 Thread Tom Hammond
John:

Elecraft offers (probably for a price) two (2) little devices which screw
to the top back edge of the bottom case and into which the feet of the
upper device fit.  Works great.

Unfortunately, I don't recall what the heck they're called, but I'll bet
Lisa or someone else around there will know.

73,

Tom   N0SS

At 15:42 02/16/2009, you wrote:
Hi

I don't recall where I saw this but I think someone posted a smart
way to keep the K2 from slipping slowly off the back ot the KAT100
while hitting the buttons.

Can someone direct me to it?

Thanks!

John
AB8O
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[Elecraft] K3 Mods

2009-02-16 Thread rfenabled
I really don't want to delve into my K3 with a slodering iron and a baggie full 
of bits and pieces.
So how about Elecraft offering a board swap for those of us who do not wish to 
do the mods themselves.
Interestingly enough I sent this request direct to Elecraft and as yet I have 
had no reply.
Australia is quite a long drive from Aptos and the cost of posting the whole 
radio back to the US is a costly option. I for one would simply sell the radio 
instead and think about a repalcemnet rig later if the hardware revisions were 
needed to the point where the radio was unable to do the job it was purchased 
for. This is not the case of course as the K3 has performed flawlessly to date 
and has exceeded my humble expectations, bit having said that, I would like to 
bring it up to the latest specs with the mods that are now included with the 
current shipments.
Gary
K3 S/N 679.MCU V2.82
(Deeply burrowed inside my bunker now)
Sent via BlackBerry® from Telstra
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Quick Split

2009-02-16 Thread W0FK

Great tip Val, and one I will try!

Of course that only works if the station is up 1. Other splits aren't
covered. That's where a the quick split feature really comes in handy.
Hold the split button, and VFO B synchs with the VFO A frequency; enter the
split by hitting the proper number on the keppad, and VFO B is there. Yes,
rotating the knob works, but when you're tired and trying to calculate up
X, it just takes longer to get there. The early bird gets the DX, and
quick split really helps.

Lou, W0FK 



Val-12 wrote:
 
 
 
 Amen John. You are right, 90% of CW splits are up 1. That's why, while 
 waiting for real quick split, I  am using sort of it. My VFO B is always 
 linked to VFO A plus 1 kHz.  Only one  press SPLIT when hear UP and my
 TX 
 frq is up 1.
 
 73 Val, LZ1VB 
 
 
 
 


-
St. Louis, MO
K3 #2513
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3%3A-%22Qiuck-Split%22-tp2336413p2338050.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Mods

2009-02-16 Thread wayne burdick
rfenab...@gmail.com wrote:

 I really don't want to delve into my K3 with a slodering iron and a 
 baggie full of bits and pieces.
 So how about Elecraft offering a board swap for those of us who do not 
 wish to do the mods themselves.

Hi Gary,

We'll be happy to swap any module that you don't want to modify 
yourself. You can email k3supp...@elecraft.com) and make any necessary 
arrangements. However, I think you'll find that all of the mods are 
simple and easy to make, if you'd like to make any of them yourself. 
The RF board is a special case. Swapping it out would be a factor of 10 
more difficult than any of the minor mods you might need to do.

Fortunately (taking into considering that the K3 has been shipping for 
barely a year and a half), there have been very few mods. Whether any 
mods are required at all depends on your needs and the rig's time of 
manufacture. Again, K3 support can help you determine what is 
applicable, or give you further assistance on any mod.

If any of the documentation is lacking, or you have trouble getting any 
of the parts in a timely fashion, please e-mail me directly and I'll 
expedite whatever action is necessary.

73,
Wayne


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Re: [Elecraft] 8 AWG adapter

2009-02-16 Thread Rick Tavan N6XI
APP housings come in four physical sizes with current ratings up to 180A.
The next size up from our familiar 15-45A housings is the PP75. It is good
for 6-16 AWG wires. There are adapters (multi-connector blocks) that include
both these larger connectors and the smaller ones. HRO carries this stuff
here in the Bay Area.

/Rick N6XI

On 2/16/09, Julius Fazekas phriend...@yahoo.com wrote:

 I have some really nice 8AWG cable for my power line. Connecting to the PS
 is not a problem, but haven't figured out an elegant means to drop it down
 to use with 30A PP connectors. Any ideas?

 Thanks,

 Julius Fazekas
 N2WN

 Tennessee Contest Group
 TnQP http://www.tnqp.org/

 Elecraft K2/100 #4455
 Elecraft K3/100 #366
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Mods -- Important clarification

2009-02-16 Thread wayne burdick
I wrote:

 We'll be happy to swap any module that you don't want to modify
 yourself. You can email k3supp...@elecraft.com) and make any necessary
 arrangements. However, I think you'll find that all of the mods are
 simple and easy to make, if you'd like to make any of them yourself.

I need to clarify this.

First, there is a charge if we make a modification for you, or send you 
a replacement module. Second, in most cases you can make the needed 
arrangements by contacting sales. Our K3 mods page has the information 
you need to determine whether a mod is necessary, so you usually won't 
need to contact k3support.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] Feature request

2009-02-16 Thread W0MU Mike Fatchett
Options yes, absolutely. 

I have no desire to force my operating style on anyone and don't want anyone
else's style forced on me. 



A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may
never get over. Ben Franklin
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ian White GM3SEK
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 3:34 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Feature request

Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:

I have to disagree ... quick split would cause too may other problems 
like losing the frequency if one has already set VFO B (subreciever) to 
the desired place.

Except for actions explicitly designed to change frequency (tune the 
VFO, change band, recall a memory, etc.), the user interface should 
never change the frequency and it should never change the frequency of 
the other VFO.


This shows why everything needs to be an OPTION - there are so many
different operating styles.

The industry-standard quick split function is designed for people whose
operating style is to tune the DX station on VFO A, and then want a quick
way to set the up the rig to call on a split frequency using VFO B (and the
sub-rx if available).

Quick split has become an industry standard because significant numbers of
users do find it valuable, for two major reasons:

1. Speed
2. Reducing the risk of errors - above all, avoiding the cardinal sin of
transmitting on the DX frequency.

Users of quick split know all about its disadvantages too. Obviously, quick
split will not be suitable for all circumstances (it would be great to have
the option to make it a PF toggle). Obviously, any existing VFO B frequency
will be lost. Also any pre-configured split can only be an individual
operator's best guess, so it needs to be configurable; but *any* offset is
better than zero - see point 2 above.

Even people who value quick split will only use it when the advantages
override those disadvantages.  They are also aware of others who would not
like this function, wouldn't need it, or simply can't see how any sane
person could ask for such a thing. That's fine, because it is being
requested as an *option*. If Elecraft does decide to introduce it, there
would be no adverse impact on anyone who doesn't wish to enable it.

It may also be well to remember that the *only* purpose of discussion about
feature requests is to set out the issues for Elecraft to consider. The rest
is up to Elecraft.


-- 

73 from Ian GM3SEK
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[Elecraft] K3 pet feature requests

2009-02-16 Thread Ken Kopp
I certainly don't envy Wayne and Eric as they evaluate
the relative validity of each of our many and varied ideas.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
 elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft 70cm transverter, K3 and repeater access tones?

2009-02-16 Thread wayne burdick
James,

The XV432 itself *does* cover the full 70-cm range. If you use it with 
a rig that covers 28-32 MHz, you'll have this capability. But the K3 
only covers 28-30 MHz.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


 Thanks for the information.  I didn't realize that the XV432 didn't 
 cover
 the whole 70cm band.  This is good to know, as I intended to use the
 transverter to communicate with local 440 machines.  I suppose it 
 would be
 better for me then to go with the XV144, or just buy a 2m/440 base
 instead.

 73,
 James KC2UEE


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[Elecraft] Correction to MDS figures in March QST article comparing various rigs

2009-02-16 Thread wayne burdick
Gene (W3ZZ), the author of Comparing VHF + IF Strips in the March 
2009 QST, just got back to me with a correction to his article. On page 
90, table 2 should show -138 dBm for the K3, and -132 dBm for the 
SDR-5000 (the two figures were transposed). A correction will also 
appear in QST.

Thanks, Gene, for catching this.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 pet feature requests

2009-02-16 Thread wayne burdick
It gives us an excuse to meet for lunch once a week :)

73,
Wayne
N6KR

Ken Kopp wrote:

 I certainly don't envy Wayne and Eric as they evaluate
 the relative validity of each of our many and varied ideas.

 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP

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[Elecraft] Not so Quick Split please

2009-02-16 Thread JOHN LAWRENCE
Well I'm guess I now qualify as an old timer with an analog mind that works 
well unless there's too many tap dances during the feeding frenzy of a DX pile 
up.  Split operation when searching to spot the QSO with the DX station can 
give me a red face after I call on the DX's frequency.  Not so cool!  As a new 
K3 user I find there are two paths to follow when in this mode of operation.

Split with RIT/XIT on VFO A
This approach makes it easy with only VFO A set on the DX station and spotting 
by tapping RIT, finding the station working the DX, down or up, when found then 
a tap on XIT button followed by an RIT button tap gets me back to the DX 
station with TX split on the last QSO and ready to roll.  Sounds simple and 
quick?  Not so safe!  Sometimes I find myself transmitting on the DX frequency 
in the frenzy.  There are too many taps in this dance step for me and it brings 
on the over zealous self appointed police with all their powers to send  .._ / 
._ _.  and/or ._.. /  .. /  _..  Oh my! sorry.  The RIT/XIT combo dance is too 
complicated.  I'm going to go sit down.

Split RX on VFO A, TX on VFO B  Alternative
I've decided this alternative is safer and reduces the posibility of sending cw 
on the DX frequency.  Spoting the QSO before sending requires two taps on the 
A/B button.  But quick taps in the Split mode may also result in sending on the 
WRONG VFO or on the DX operation frequency.  

Thus my first suggestion after two months with my sweet K3.  May I suggest to 
the Elecraft staff that a Human engineering change be offered for the 60 yo as 
a reward for being licensed over half a century.  This special feature requires 
a K3 with a frequency TX inhibit feature that can be set for the DX operation 
frequency before the tap dance begins.  Or should it be called Safe Split 
rather than Quick Split?Get it?  Don't get me wrong I love the radio but 
I have too many quick controls :-(  

73,
John, W1QS, ex N6JL (76-08), K1KTH (59-76)
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 pet feature requests

2009-02-16 Thread Ken Kopp
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[Elecraft] K3 - Another feature request

2009-02-16 Thread J. Heide
OK, since everyone is voicing their desires for K3 features, here are mine. Let 
me start off that when not working HF, the K3 sits on my 6 meter repeater 
frequency, and gets a lot of use there. I have discussed with Wayne in the past 
about CTCSS decode and reverse phase burst on CTCSS. I was thinking with that 
nice keypad doing nothing on TX that when in FM mode, it could send DTMF tones. 
I would like it, but who else might, I don't know. Maybe something for the way 
back burner. The K3 appeals to a wide range of users for various reasons. The 6 
and 10 meter FM is what sold me on the K3. Some of us like FM DX and working 
distant repeaters when the band is open. I know I like hearing distant voices 
come in on my machine.

73 de Josh K6ZRX
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Quick Split

2009-02-16 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

Agreed ... several previous rigs in this shack had quick split 
options and after playing with it for about one day, the option 
was routinely disabled.  It was simply too easy to wipe out what 
I had set on the subreceiver/VFO B and I could get to the DX 
station faster manually.  

Now, if someone wanted to request that a hold of XIT would 
both turn on XIT and set it up 1 on CW and up 5 on SSB, 
that might be useful.  If a hold of XIT while XIT was enabled 
would move the transmitting frequency and mode into VFO B 
(or A-B would put the TRANSMIT frequency into VFO B if XIT was 
enabled) that would also be worthwhile. 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
  


 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David Gilbert
 Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 3:02 PM
 To: elecraft
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Quick Split
 
 
 
 No flame intended, but it certainly doesn't take several 
 keystrokes. 
 
 As a test, I set my sub-receiver to 20m SSB and my main 
 receiver to 40m 
 CW (I'm beta testing the software for independent receive).  
 All it took 
 was to tap A - B, hold the SAME BUTTON for split, and spin the VFO B 
 knob to be ready to go for a split transmission on 40m CW.  
 It took less 
 than two seconds for everything.  It almost seems like some 
 forethought 
 by Elecraft went into the choice of buttons to use ;) 
 
 I bet it would take at least two seconds to cycle through a 
 few stacked 
 fixed offsets (say 1/2/5 KHz) by holding the split button 
 multiple times.
 
 For myself, I simply don't consider it an enhancement to 
 clutter up the 
 menus with capabilities that have already been addressed, but 
 maybe I'm 
 just more of a knob twirler and less of a button pusher.  To each his 
 own ...
 
 73,
 Dave   AB7E
 
 
 
 Dave - N1LQ wrote:
  Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 1:28 PM
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Subject: [Elecraft] K3: Qiuck Split
 
  It's an excellent feature that automates several 
 keystrokes and gets 
  you there or 'near there' in a real hurry.
 
  If you chase DX seriously have had it  before you will 
 want it again. 
  If ICOM has done it for about 20 years why can't the K3?
 
  For the life of me I cannot fathom how some of you guys obsess 
  endlessly about enhancements for obscure operating modes 
 but get so 
  defensive over one that is lacking and really needed for 
 serious SSB 
  or CW DX work.
 
  Flame on at my expense.
 
  73 de N1LQ-Dave 
  __
  
 

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[Elecraft] full 70cm band coverage possibilities?

2009-02-16 Thread Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604
How difficult would it be to modify the XV432 to use a 6M IF?

Or perhaps the K3 could use 28-32MHz when in transverter mode?

73, doug

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Re: [Elecraft] SPLIT

2009-02-16 Thread wayne burdick
Colin,

You might have VFO B in the wrong mode. Try doing AB twice, then go 
into split.

If this doesn't work, try loading the latest beta-test firmware (2.82). 
I'm sure we tested split on each release, but this rev might have a 
relevant improvement.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Feb 14, 2009, at 12:30 AM, Colin Potter wrote:

 Hi all, need help!
  
 Using ver 2.78 ser 2014. Find SPLIT is not working CW or SSB! Was 
 working previously with other versions. Powered up again and reloaded 
 firmware  DSP to no avail.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Qick Split

2009-02-16 Thread Tom, N5GE
On Mon, 16 Feb 2009 17:49:10 -, you wrote:

Doesn't Quick Split assume the DX is -always- located a 
fixed number of kHz away from his TX'ing frequency? This 
is simply not the case, if this is what's is being lobbied for.

If the DX is actually an exact 5 kHz up, there will still be a 
need to change of one's TX frequency involved on almost every 
transmission ... or should be ... if one is an astute DX'er.  Do 
people actually simply go up five and blindly call?  Really?

K5D is an example ... they are spending hours listening DOWN.
I've worked them this way on four bands so far.  I did this when 
operating from there ... and other DX locations ... BTW.

My most-used control in working SPLIT is the A/B button.  A
quick poke of A/B and a tune of the A VFO to put it on the last 
worked station in the pileup and another poke of the A/B button
to put the that frequency in the B VFO.  How could this be simpler?

I'm an old poop.  Maybe I'm missing something 

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
 elecraftcov...@rfwave.net

The Kenwood TS-950 series rigs have this.  When I first read the
manual it sounded great, but in use it was not very benificial,  for
the very reason you described.  

Besides if you are an old poop like me and Ken who has learned to
determine the RX tuning routine of the DX station before you call, you
will be moving the Sub RX up and down continuously as you chase **HIS
RX FREQ** up and down in frequency.  Old Ham Geezers learn to do this
after a few years of practice or reading the Complete DX'r by W9KNI,
but I hope the rest of you don't use the procedure, so Ken and I can
get 'em and scoot away quickly ;o)

73,

Tom, N5GE

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.swotrc.net

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Re: [Elecraft] Sub Receiver jones...

2009-02-16 Thread Tom, N5GE
On Mon, 16 Feb 2009 10:31:20 -0800, you wrote:

Below...

Jim Miller wrote:
 Listening to K5D last night made it obvious to me (I'm slow...) the
 benefit of a sub-receiver. The exchanges that occur by the pursuers
 are impossible to find by switching back and forth between pursued and
 pursuer frequencies. I'm assuming that the pursued will take the next
 call somewhere near the last one, maybe a bad assumption.

Some DX operators (the ones I like) go through a pileup in one direction, 
moving up or 
down a discrete amount each time. Then they either 'snap back' to the other 
end of the 
pileup, or tune back the way they came. This is the best case, because if you 
are thinking 
you can predict where to call accurately -- and only a small percentage of 
callers are 
thinking!

Others hop around between two general areas. You can imagine them flipping 
back and forth 
each time. If you detect this, it can be helpful.

Some operators pretty much listen in one spot, plus or minus a few hundred Hz. 
for a long 
time. Pretty soon everyone learns where this is!

Sometimes a guy will just randomly pick someone to answer with no discernible 
pattern. 
This can be frustrating.

You really do need two receivers to spot the pattern. It can be hard when the 
DX is 
working stations that you can't hear.

I know that I have spent long periods in pileups without results until I get 
the pattern. 
Then -- blam, one shot.

Exactly!

73,

Tom, N5GE

K3 806
XV144
XV432

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.swotrc.net

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Qick Split

2009-02-16 Thread Tony Morgan
Right on the mark Tom!

73,

Tony W7GO

Tom, N5GE wrote:
 On Mon, 16 Feb 2009 17:49:10 -, you wrote:

   
 Doesn't Quick Split assume the DX is -always- located a 
 fixed number of kHz away from his TX'ing frequency? This 
 is simply not the case, if this is what's is being lobbied for.

 If the DX is actually an exact 5 kHz up, there will still be a 
 need to change of one's TX frequency involved on almost every 
 transmission ... or should be ... if one is an astute DX'er.  Do 
 people actually simply go up five and blindly call?  Really?

 K5D is an example ... they are spending hours listening DOWN.
 I've worked them this way on four bands so far.  I did this when 
 operating from there ... and other DX locations ... BTW.

 My most-used control in working SPLIT is the A/B button.  A
 quick poke of A/B and a tune of the A VFO to put it on the last 
 worked station in the pileup and another poke of the A/B button
 to put the that frequency in the B VFO.  How could this be simpler?

 I'm an old poop.  Maybe I'm missing something 

 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
 elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
 

 The Kenwood TS-950 series rigs have this.  When I first read the
 manual it sounded great, but in use it was not very benificial,  for
 the very reason you described.  

 Besides if you are an old poop like me and Ken who has learned to
 determine the RX tuning routine of the DX station before you call, you
 will be moving the Sub RX up and down continuously as you chase **HIS
 RX FREQ** up and down in frequency.  Old Ham Geezers learn to do this
 after a few years of practice or reading the Complete DX'r by W9KNI,
 but I hope the rest of you don't use the procedure, so Ken and I can
 get 'em and scoot away quickly ;o)

 73,

 Tom, N5GE

 http://www.n5ge.com
 http://www.swotrc.net

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Qick Split

2009-02-16 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


 Old Ham Geezers learn to do this after a few 
 years of practice or reading the Complete DX'r by W9KNI, but 
 I hope the rest of you don't use the procedure, so Ken and I 
 can get 'em and scoot away quickly ;o)

Shucks, boy ... now you done gone and gib away da secret G. 

Thet be the diff'nce 'tween real DXers and da 'tenders who 
be callin' where da DX wuz 5 minutes ago 'cause someone 
posted his QRG on thet newfangled cluster box. 



 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Tom, N5GE
 Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 11:45 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Qick Split
 
 
 On Mon, 16 Feb 2009 17:49:10 -, you wrote:
 
 Doesn't Quick Split assume the DX is -always- located a
 fixed number of kHz away from his TX'ing frequency? This 
 is simply not the case, if this is what's is being lobbied for.
 
 If the DX is actually an exact 5 kHz up, there will still be a
 need to change of one's TX frequency involved on almost every 
 transmission ... or should be ... if one is an astute DX'er.  Do 
 people actually simply go up five and blindly call?  Really?
 
 K5D is an example ... they are spending hours listening DOWN. I've 
 worked them this way on four bands so far.  I did this when 
 operating 
 from there ... and other DX locations ... BTW.
 
 My most-used control in working SPLIT is the A/B button.  A 
 quick poke 
 of A/B and a tune of the A VFO to put it on the last 
 worked station 
 in the pileup and another poke of the A/B button to put the that 
 frequency in the B VFO.  How could this be simpler?
 
 I'm an old poop.  Maybe I'm missing something 
 
 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
  elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
 
 The Kenwood TS-950 series rigs have this.  When I first read 
 the manual it sounded great, but in use it was not very 
 benificial,  for the very reason you described.  
 
 Besides if you are an old poop like me and Ken who has 
 learned to determine the RX tuning routine of the DX station 
 before you call, you will be moving the Sub RX up and down 
 continuously as you chase **HIS RX FREQ** up and down in 
 frequency.  Old Ham Geezers learn to do this after a few 
 years of practice or reading the Complete DX'r by W9KNI, but 
 I hope the rest of you don't use the procedure, so Ken and I 
 can get 'em and scoot away quickly ;o)
 
 73,
 
 Tom, N5GE
 
 http://www.n5ge.com
 http://www.swotrc.net
 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Qick Split

2009-02-16 Thread W0MU Mike Fatchett
LMAO.

Maybe that is why the pileups never seemed to big to me.  I was only
listening where they were.  Pretty funny to listen to people call endlessly
20 kc's up the band and the folks that don't have two vfo's trying to work
spleeet. 


A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may
never get over. Ben Franklin
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Joe Subich, W4TV
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 10:57 PM
To: 'Tom, N5GE'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Qick Split



 Old Ham Geezers learn to do this after a few years of practice or 
 reading the Complete DX'r by W9KNI, but I hope the rest of you don't 
 use the procedure, so Ken and I can get 'em and scoot away quickly ;o)

Shucks, boy ... now you done gone and gib away da secret G. 

Thet be the diff'nce 'tween real DXers and da 'tenders who be callin' where
da DX wuz 5 minutes ago 'cause someone posted his QRG on thet newfangled
cluster box. 



 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Tom, N5GE
 Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 11:45 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Qick Split
 
 
 On Mon, 16 Feb 2009 17:49:10 -, you wrote:
 
 Doesn't Quick Split assume the DX is -always- located a fixed 
 number of kHz away from his TX'ing frequency? This is simply not 
 the case, if this is what's is being lobbied for.
 
 If the DX is actually an exact 5 kHz up, there will still be a need 
 to change of one's TX frequency involved on almost every transmission 
 ... or should be ... if one is an astute DX'er.  Do people actually 
 simply go up five and blindly call?  Really?
 
 K5D is an example ... they are spending hours listening DOWN. I've 
 worked them this way on four bands so far.  I did this when
 operating
 from there ... and other DX locations ... BTW.
 
 My most-used control in working SPLIT is the A/B button.  A
 quick poke
 of A/B and a tune of the A VFO to put it on the last
 worked station
 in the pileup and another poke of the A/B button to put the that 
 frequency in the B VFO.  How could this be simpler?
 
 I'm an old poop.  Maybe I'm missing something 
 
 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
  elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
 
 The Kenwood TS-950 series rigs have this.  When I first read the 
 manual it sounded great, but in use it was not very benificial,  for 
 the very reason you described.
 
 Besides if you are an old poop like me and Ken who has learned to 
 determine the RX tuning routine of the DX station before you call, you 
 will be moving the Sub RX up and down continuously as you chase **HIS 
 RX FREQ** up and down in frequency.  Old Ham Geezers learn to do this 
 after a few years of practice or reading the Complete DX'r by W9KNI, 
 but I hope the rest of you don't use the procedure, so Ken and I can 
 get 'em and scoot away quickly ;o)
 
 73,
 
 Tom, N5GE
 
 http://www.n5ge.com
 http://www.swotrc.net
 

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Re: [Elecraft] full 70cm band coverage possibilities?

2009-02-16 Thread Robert Friess
Changing the IF of the XV432 is not difficult from a design
standpoint, but requires careful testing with test equipment not found
in most hamshacks.  A new crystal would be needed in the Local
Oscillator and there may be possible changes in a couple of the LO
filter components.  Next the IF filter would need to be redesigned to
cover 50 to 54 MHz and then, finally, the XV432 output spectrum would
have to be looked at with a spectrum analyzer to assure that all
spectral purity requirements been achieved.

The K3 cannot cover the range from 30 to 32 MHz because of a bandstop
filter  that has been included to suppress 6 meter image responses.

73,
Bob, N6CM

On Mon, Feb 16, 2009 at 6:56 PM, Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604
fa...@panix.com wrote:
 How difficult would it be to modify the XV432 to use a 6M IF?

 Or perhaps the K3 could use 28-32MHz when in transverter mode?

 73, doug

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