Re: [Elecraft] COAX for audio cables ???

2010-02-01 Thread John R. Lonigro
Bob:
If you go to www.cablesondemand.com, they have all kinds of Amphenol 
cables for sale.  I've only ordered from them once (absolutely no 
affiliation), but the cables I bought seemed very high quality and 
reasonably priced.  They have all kinds of cable, not just audio, but 
coax and computer cables as well.

73's,
John AA0VE

Bob - W0GI wrote:
> I will need to make some audio cables for the new K3 for the LP-PAN to the
> audio box, and also to the other soundcard.
>
> I think I read somewhere in one of the K3 manuals that it is best to use
> small coax, as it has better shielding.
>
> Makes sense to me, and LMR100 seems to fit the bill, but at $0.64 per foot,
> I wonder what else is available?
>
> Not cheesy RS audio cable, but decent coax?
>
> Considering the length involved, the LMR100 isn't going to break the bank.
> :>)
>   
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Re: [Elecraft] Attenuator and RF Gain Settings

2010-02-01 Thread Hector Padron
I am 61 years old and more than 40 as a ham and always since I started on 
hamradio with the tube type receivers has used the volumen control almost to 
the maximun and then control the signal with the RF gain control,no matter 
which radio you will be using,this is the best way to cut down band noise and 
close freq QRM,,without a doubt the K3 is the highest performer in the market 
and doing this it will work even better,I have never used my preamp,not even on 
10M,the K3 has enough sensitivity not to use it,on 40 and 80M I always have my 
ATT engaged and I am able to pull any weak dx station no matter how weak it is 
and even with a strong one at 2Khz away my freq.
My two cents.
 
AD4C

"For a refined ham it is compulsory to own a k3"

--- On Sun, 1/31/10, Jim Brown  wrote:


From: Jim Brown 
Subject: [Elecraft] Attenuator and RF Gain Settings
To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
Date: Sunday, January 31, 2010, 10:09 PM


On Sun, 31 Jan 2010 14:23:33 -0500, Brian Machesney wrote:

>For the first time, I turned on the K3's ATT and found that I was even
>better able to separate callers, particularly when trying to pick out
>relatively weaker EU signals from stronger NA signals responding to my CQ.

Those of us with lots of grey hair learned 50 years ago that the most 
important control on our receiver was the RF Gain. They didn't come with 
attenuators or preamps in those days, but we also learned to switch them to 
a shorter antenna when they got overloaded. 

With a modern radio, on bands below 20M, the ATTenuator should almost 
always be ON and the PREamp should almost always be OFF for the greatest 
ability to separate weak signals from strong ones. On 20M you can usually 
turn off the ATTenuator, but you may not need the preamp until you go to 
higher bands. 

Another hint -- to pull really weak ones out from between strong signals, 
turn down the RF gain to the point where you are just hearing the weak one. 
During the 160M contest this weekend, preamp was off, ATT was on, and my RF 
gains were at about 2'o'clock. 

73,
Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 & Beverages on 160

2010-02-01 Thread Bill W4ZV

For the benefit of others here, the reply by K4SAV on the Topband list is
accurate in all respects.

73,  Bill

http://lists.contesting.com/pipermail/topband/2010-January/032608.html

KA1J wrote:
> 
> Beverage 1 runs from the house to the east and is 500' long. The wire 
> comes in through the window sill and is held up by branches & it 
> dips,. It has no termination resistor. The matching transformer is 
> next to the window. The ground is connected to the station ground 
> rod
>
> .I surely must be doing something wrong.
>   

I wouldn't expect much performance from a Beverage built like that.  A 
bi-directional Beverage will have a lot more noise than an single 
direction one, and connecting the ground to the station ground will 
allow all the station ground noise to appear in the signal.  It could 
also destroy the pattern because of the signal picked up on the house 
wiring, which also gets into the output. 

Build it like everyone else does, separate ground rods at both ends not 
connected to anything else, add termination resistor, use transformer 
with good primary to secondary isolation or lots of chokes on the feedline.


-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Beverages-on-160-tp4490135p4494495.html
Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] 2M with K3 - anyone doing it?

2010-02-01 Thread Kjeld Holm
Dear Mike,

Not exactly an answer to your question but in my oppimion you should
consider an old Icom IC-275E or IC-275H (25 or 100 W) before making your
decission. See this link http://df9ic.de/tech/trxtest/trxtest.html

Vy 73
OZ1CCM Kjeld

 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Michael M. Raskin
Sent: 31. januar 2010 03:35
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] 2M with K3 - anyone doing it?

I recently picked up a used THL 500V 2M amp.  I want to drive it with my K3,
which has no 2M capability.  The K144KV-F internal 2M module only has 10
Watts output, which is not enough to drive the THP 500V to 500 Watts.  The
KV144 2M transverter has enough power to do it, but it has to be external
and is a kit, something difficult with my increasing age.  Since Elecraft
does not plan to have an internal 2M module with more than 10 Watts, would I
be better off with the external transverter since I want to do 2M
terrestrial as well as EME?  Or should I give up on the K3 for 2M EME and
wait for the new ICOM to be released?

Mike, W4UM
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[Elecraft] Half power

2010-02-01 Thread Ken Chandler
I've just switched on only to find I'm only running half pwr 50w on cw  
and ssb have I tweeked a wrong switch somewhere!

Ken..G0ORH

Sent from my iPhone



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[Elecraft] Re: Attenuator and RF Gain Settings

2010-02-01 Thread Johnny Siu
Hello Hector,

I concur your view.  I always lower the RF gain to a point equal to the band 
noise in the s meter.  I find many operators just let the RF gain always fully 
clockwise.  Of course, 6m will need a bit more sensitivity.

73

Johnny VR2XMC



- 郵件原件 
寄件人﹕ Hector Padron 
收件人﹕ Jim Brown 
副本(CC) elecraft@mailman.qth.net
傳送日期﹕ 2010/2/1 (一) 10:09:07 PM
主題: Re: [Elecraft] Attenuator and RF Gain Settings

I am 61 years old and more than 40 as a ham and always since I started on 
hamradio with the tube type receivers has used the volumen control almost to 
the maximun and then control the signal with the RF gain control,no matter 
which radio you will be using,this is the best way to cut down band noise and 
close freq QRM,,without a doubt the K3 is the highest performer in the market 
and doing this it will work even better,I have never used my preamp,not even on 
10M,the K3 has enough sensitivity not to use it,on 40 and 80M I always have my 
ATT engaged and I am able to pull any weak dx station no matter how weak it is 
and even with a strong one at 2Khz away my freq.
My two cents.
 
AD4C

"For a refined ham it is compulsory to own a k3"

--- On Sun, 1/31/10, Jim Brown  wrote:


From: Jim Brown 
Subject: [Elecraft] Attenuator and RF Gain Settings
To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
Date: Sunday, January 31, 2010, 10:09 PM


On Sun, 31 Jan 2010 14:23:33 -0500, Brian Machesney wrote:

>For the first time, I turned on the K3's ATT and found that I was even
>better able to separate callers, particularly when trying to pick out
>relatively weaker EU signals from stronger NA signals responding to my CQ.

Those of us with lots of grey hair learned 50 years ago that the most 
important control on our receiver was the RF Gain. They didn't come with 
attenuators or preamps in those days, but we also learned to switch them to 
a shorter antenna when they got overloaded. 

With a modern radio, on bands below 20M, the ATTenuator should almost 
always be ON and the PREamp should almost always be OFF for the greatest 
ability to separate weak signals from strong ones. On 20M you can usually 
turn off the ATTenuator, but you may not need the preamp until you go to 
higher bands. 

Another hint -- to pull really weak ones out from between strong signals, 
turn down the RF gain to the point where you are just hearing the weak one. 
During the 160M contest this weekend, preamp was off, ATT was on, and my RF 
gains were at about 2'o'clock. 

73,
Jim K9YC


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[Elecraft] Re: 2M with K3 - anyone doing it?

2010-02-01 Thread Johnny Siu
Hello Mike and Kjeld,

IC275, IC475 and IC1275 were Icom's sought after monoband all mode rigs. The 
first two can still be found in the used market but the 3rd one will be very 
different to be found.

IC275 can still be easily found in Japan but you have to do modification to ROM 
IC so as to release the band limit.

73

Johnny VR2XMC



- 郵件原件 
寄件人﹕ Kjeld Holm 
收件人﹕ Michael M. Raskin ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
傳送日期﹕ 2010/2/1 (一) 10:26:47 PM
主題: Re: [Elecraft] 2M with K3 - anyone doing it?

Dear Mike,

Not exactly an answer to your question but in my oppimion you should
consider an old Icom IC-275E or IC-275H (25 or 100 W) before making your
decission. See this link http://df9ic.de/tech/trxtest/trxtest.html

Vy 73
OZ1CCM Kjeld



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Michael M. Raskin
Sent: 31. januar 2010 03:35
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] 2M with K3 - anyone doing it?

I recently picked up a used THL 500V 2M amp.  I want to drive it with my K3,
which has no 2M capability.  The K144KV-F internal 2M module only has 10
Watts output, which is not enough to drive the THP 500V to 500 Watts.  The
KV144 2M transverter has enough power to do it, but it has to be external
and is a kit, something difficult with my increasing age.  Since Elecraft
does not plan to have an internal 2M module with more than 10 Watts, would I
be better off with the external transverter since I want to do 2M
terrestrial as well as EME?  Or should I give up on the K3 for 2M EME and
wait for the new ICOM to be released?

Mike, W4UM
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[Elecraft] FW: Half power on K3

2010-02-01 Thread ken chandler
Sri missed wot radio my K3.doh

-Original Message-
From: Ken Chandler [mailto:g0...@sky.com] 
Sent: 01 February 2010 14:49
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Half power

I've just switched on only to find I'm only running half pwr 50w on cw  
and ssb have I tweeked a wrong switch somewhere!

Ken..G0ORH

Sent from my iPhone



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[Elecraft] N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar: Feb 2010

2010-02-01 Thread Ken Newman

~
N2CQ QRP CONTEST CALENDAR
February 2010
~
80 METER FOXHUNT (CW) *** QRP Contest ***
Each Tuesday to Mar 24 
9 PM to 10:29 PM Eastern Time USA
Info: http://www.qrpfoxhunt.org/
~
40 METER FOXHUNT (CW) *** QRP Contest ***
Each Thursday to March 26
9 PM to 10:29 PM Eastern Time USA
Info: http://www.qrpfoxhunt.org/
~
Adventure Radio Spartan Sprint (CW) ... QRP Contest!
EST: Feb 1, 9 PM to 11 PM (First Monday each month)
UTC: Feb 2, 0200z to 0400z 
Rules: http://adventure-radio.org/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page
~
Vermont QSO Party (CW/PH/Dig) ... QRP Category
Feb 6, z to Feb 7, 2400z
Rules: http://vtqsoparty.westriverradio.org/
~
10-10 Int. Winter Phone QSO Party ... QRP Category
Feb 6, 0001z to Feb 7, 2359z
Rules: http://www.ten-ten.org/Forms/QSOPartyRulesRevised.pdf
~
Black Sea Cup International (CW/SSB) ... QRP Category
Feb 6, 1200z to Feb 7, 1200z
Rules: http://bscc.ucoz.ru/index/0-21
~
Minnesota QSO Party (All) ... QRP Category
Feb 6, 1400z to 2359z
Rules: http://www.w0aa.org/
~
FYBO Winter QRP Field Day (CW/SSB) ... QRP Contest!
Feb 6, 1400z to 2400z
Rules: http://www.azscqrpions.org
~
AGCW Straight Key QSO Party (CW 80M) ... QRP Category
Feb 6, 1600z to  1900z
Rules: http://www.agcw.org/en/?Contests:Straight_Key_Party
~
British Columbia QSO Party (CW/PH/Dig) ... QRP Category
Feb 6, 1600z to Feb 7, 0759z
Rules: 
http://www.deltaamateurradio.com/bcqsoparty/Delta_Amateur_Radio/Rules.html
~
Delaware QSO Party (All) ... QRP Category
Feb 6, 1700z to Feb 7, 2359z
Rules: http://www.fsarc.org/DEQSO.html
~
North American Sprint (CW) ... QRP Category
Feb 7, z to 0400z
Rules: http://www.ncjweb.com/sprintrules.php 
~
New Mexico QSO Party (CW/PH/Dig) ... QRP Category
Feb 7, 1500z to Feb 8, 0300z
Rules: http://pages.swcp.com/~n5zgt/nmqsoparty/index.html
~
QRP ARCI Fireside Sprint (SSB) ...QRP Contest!
Feb 7, 2000z to 2359z
Rules: http://www.qrparci.org/
~
NAQCC Straight Key/Bug Sprint (CW) *** QRP Contest ***
EST: Feb 9, 8:30 PM to 10:30 PM
UTC: Feb 10, 0130Z to 0330Z
Rules: http://home.windstream.net/yoel/contests.html
~
CWops Mini-CWT Test (CW) ... QRP Category
Feb 10, 1100z to 1200z and
Feb 10, 1900z to 2000z and
Feb 11, 0300z to 0400z
Rules: http://www.cwops.org/onair.html
~
Valentine Sprint (PODXS) (PSK-31) ... QRP Category
Feb 12, 8 PM to Feb 13, 2 AM LOCAL TIME
Rules: http://www.podxs070.com/valentine-sprint
~
CQ WW RTTY WPX Contest ... Low Power Category
Feb 13, z to Feb 14, 2359z
Rules: http://www.cqwpxrtty.com/
~
Dutch PACC Contest (SSB/CW) ... QRP Category
Feb 13, 1200z to Feb 14, 1200z
Rules: http://pacc.veron.nl/
~
Louisiana QSO Party (Ph/CW) 
Feb 13, 1500z to Feb 14, 0300z 
Rules: http://www.qsl.net/kd5wdy/LAQSO_/laqso_.html
~
OMISS QSO PARTY (SSB) ... QRP Category
Feb 13, 1500z to Feb 14, 1500z
Rules: http://omiss.net/qsoparty.html
~
FISTS Winter Sprint (CW of course) ...QRP Category
Feb 13, 1700z to 2100z
Rules: http://www.fists.org/sprints.html
~
SKCC Weekend Sprintathon (Straight Key CW) ... QRP Category
Feb 14, z to 2359z
Rules: http://www.skccgroup.com/sprint/wes/
~
North American Sprint (SSB) ... QRP Category
Feb 14, z to 0400z
Rules: http://www.ncjweb.com/sprintrules.php
~
Russian PSK WW Contest 
Feb 19, 2100z to Feb 20, 2100z
Rules: http://www.digitalrus.ru/Files/RusWW.htm
~
ARRL International DX Contest (CW) ... QRP Category
Feb 20, z to Feb 21, 2400z
Rules: http://www.arrl.org/co

Re: [Elecraft] Signal / RF generator

2010-02-01 Thread n0jrn
Hi Tom:

Thanks to you and all others for your replies.   Seems the HP's are 
everyone's favorite.

Your right about the price. Much too high for my use and limited needs.  My 
259B does well to create a signal but I fear I may need to leave it on for 
hours before use to get it to settle down.

I don't have another HF rig in the house these days.  That's interesting 
since I had 7 of them about this time last year.   :-)

Not sure what I'll do at this point.  Even if one of the HP8640's did come 
up at a good price,  it's still much too big for my use.

SO,  I'm on the hunt for something with a small footprint, good attenuation, 
good coverage up to about 150 Megs,
great stability all for around $100.00  ( or less )

Kind of sounds like a TV commercial I've seen lately.  LOL

Again,  thanks to all:

73   JerryN0JRN

> Hi Jerry:
>
> Around here, the 'choice' seems to be the H-P 8640B with the H-P
> 8654B being a somewhat lesser choice (more phase noisy, I'm
> told).  I've
> been looking for an 8640B for a while, but while they
> used to sell for around $300, they now seem to be going for upwards
> of $450 which his a bit steep for me, given my somewhat limited 'needs'.
>
> For most of my 'sig gen' needs (which usually do NOT require a
> 'calibrated' level output, but more importantly an accurate signal
> frequency, I use the K3 (or my TS-950SD) as the signal source (into a
> dummy load, of course).
>
> 73,
>
> Tom Hammond   N0SS

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[Elecraft] K3 mods and methods: smt resistor/capacitor de-soldering

2010-02-01 Thread David Windisch

It's a process, it's easier than you think, and there is plenty of room for
creativity.  I don't pretend to know it all; this works for me.

BASICS:

Light up the work area.

Get comfortable seating.

Buy a pull-down magnifier.  Don't skimp here.  I use OPTI-VISOR, 3X lenses.
Buy 2 of the physically-smallest low-power soldering pencils.
Buy a *large* decorative clothes pin.
Buy various-length, variously-shaped stainless tweezers.

Attach the pencils to the clothes pin.  Hose-clamps?
Shim the jaws open so the pencil-tips get proper spacing to (just) clear the
device, or a skosh less to grab it.

OPTIONAL: Take a dose of your favorite relaxation agent .

Take your time.  Practice on junk boards: heat, tweeze, pluck.

Now you can remove any smt you can get this contraption on to.

Ymmv.  No pics available.  I'm omitting the green stuff and presenting only
basics.  Real tools cost BIG bucks.

Brgds, Dave, W8FGX
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-mods-and-methods-smt-resistor-capacitor-de-soldering-tp4494881p4494881.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 mods and methods: smt resistor/capacitor de-soldering

2010-02-01 Thread Bob Naumann
I find that the key to removing SMT components like those involved in the
mods described is best done with solder-wick and quick movement of one
small-tipped iron to both ends of the component. I removed most of the
solder with the solder-wick and then alternate heating of both ends of the
component until it lifts up from one end. It then becomes a matter of
heating the remaining end and plucking the old part off with the iron's tip.
Then, clean the pads with the solder wick and install the new component.

Being able to see is crucial, and loads of task lighting is helpful.

73,

Bob W5OV



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Re: [Elecraft] Signal / RF generator

2010-02-01 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jerry,

Take a look at http://wb6dhw.com/index.html.  It is a kit (or just 
boards if you prefer).  According to the info I received, Dave says he 
is about to finish the firmware for the standalone signal generator, it 
has output level control, has modulation capability and also sweep 
capability (with provisions for triggering the 'scope and providing a 
reference blip on the second channel.  It also has an optional power 
meter, so it can be used as a spectrum analyzer.  Firmware loads from a 
USB port.

I am thinking of building one myself for a compact portable standalone 
signal generator.  The price is within your budget.

73,
Don W3FPR

n0jrn wrote:
> Hi Tom:
>
> Thanks to you and all others for your replies.   Seems the HP's are 
> everyone's favorite.
>
> Your right about the price. Much too high for my use and limited needs.  My 
> 259B does well to create a signal but I fear I may need to leave it on for 
> hours before use to get it to settle down.
>
> I don't have another HF rig in the house these days.  That's interesting 
> since I had 7 of them about this time last year.   :-)
>
> Not sure what I'll do at this point.  Even if one of the HP8640's did come 
> up at a good price,  it's still much too big for my use.
>
> SO,  I'm on the hunt for something with a small footprint, good attenuation, 
> good coverage up to about 150 Megs,
> great stability all for around $100.00  ( or less )
>
> Kind of sounds like a TV commercial I've seen lately.  LOL
>
> Again,  thanks to all:
>
> 73   JerryN0JRN
>
>   
>> Hi Jerry:
>>
>> Around here, the 'choice' seems to be the H-P 8640B with the H-P
>> 8654B being a somewhat lesser choice (more phase noisy, I'm
>> told).  I've
>> been looking for an 8640B for a while, but while they
>> used to sell for around $300, they now seem to be going for upwards
>> of $450 which his a bit steep for me, given my somewhat limited 'needs'.
>>
>> For most of my 'sig gen' needs (which usually do NOT require a
>> 'calibrated' level output, but more importantly an accurate signal
>> frequency, I use the K3 (or my TS-950SD) as the signal source (into a
>> dummy load, of course).
>>
>> 73,
>>
>> Tom Hammond   N0SS
>> 
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 mods and methods: smt resistor/capacitor de-soldering

2010-02-01 Thread Don Wilhelm
Bob,

I have been successful using that technique, but when there is any 
difficulty with the solder re-attaching, I slide a THIN knife blade 
under the first side when the solder melts.  The blade must be thin (and 
must have a sharp edge) so the amount of lift is very small - a thick 
blade could pull the pad that is still soldered to the board.

73,
Don W3FPR

Bob Naumann wrote:
> I find that the key to removing SMT components like those involved in the
> mods described is best done with solder-wick and quick movement of one
> small-tipped iron to both ends of the component. I removed most of the
> solder with the solder-wick and then alternate heating of both ends of the
> component until it lifts up from one end. It then becomes a matter of
> heating the remaining end and plucking the old part off with the iron's tip.
> Then, clean the pads with the solder wick and install the new component.
>
> Being able to see is crucial, and loads of task lighting is helpful.
>
> 73,
>
> Bob W5OV
>   
>
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[Elecraft] K3: For Sale - Factory Built K3/100 Fully Loaded

2010-02-01 Thread David Gilmartin
Hi,

Reluctantly I am selling my K3/100 S/N 3206.I just don't have  
enough time to use it.

This K3 was purchased in June 2009 and is in mint cosmetic and perfect  
functional condition. No updates since purchase.

The following options were factory installed:

KAT3 - K3 ATU
KRX3 - 2nd RX
KBPF3 - General Coverage RX Bandpass Module x 2
KXV3 -  RX Ant, IF Out and XVTR interface
KTCXO3-1 - TCXO (1ppm)

Filters - Main RX

KFL3A-6K - 6kHz AM/ESSB 8-pole filter
KFL3B-FM  - 13kHz FM filter
KFL3A-1.8k - 1.8kHz 8-pole filter
KFL3A-2.8k - 2.8kHz 8-pole filter
KFL3A-400 - 400 Hz, 8 pole filter

Filters - Sub RX

KFL3A-6K - 6kHz AM/ESSB 8-pole filter
KFL3A-1.8k - 1.8kHz 8-pole filter
KFL3A-2.8k - 2.8kHz 8-pole filter
KFL3A-250 - 250 Hz, 8 pole filter
KFL3A-400 - 400 Hz, 8 pole filter


Possibly of most interest within the EU (no tax or duty)


Original invoice cost was $4,700

Selling for 2,700 Euros plus shipping.

Please contact me off the list.

73

David  EI6JZ







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Re: [Elecraft] K3 mods and methods: smt resistor/capacitor de-soldering

2010-02-01 Thread Ian White GM3SEK
David Windisch wrote:
>
>It's a process, it's easier than you think, and there is plenty of room 
>for creativity.  I don't pretend to know it all; this works for me.
>
>BASICS:
>
>Light up the work area.
>
>Get comfortable seating.
>
>Buy a pull-down magnifier.  Don't skimp here.  I use OPTI-VISOR, 3X 
>lenses. Buy 2 of the physically-smallest low-power soldering pencils. 
>Buy a *large* decorative clothes pin. Buy various-length, 
>variously-shaped stainless tweezers.
>
>Attach the pencils to the clothes pin.  Hose-clamps? Shim the jaws open 
>so the pencil-tips get proper spacing to (just) clear the device, or a 
>skosh less to grab it.
>
>OPTIONAL: Take a dose of your favorite relaxation agent .
>
>Take your time.  Practice on junk boards: heat, tweeze, pluck.
>
>Now you can remove any smt you can get this contraption on to.
>
>Ymmv.  No pics available.  I'm omitting the green stuff and presenting 
>only basics.  Real tools cost BIG bucks.
>
I strongly agree about the lighting [1] and magnification - and for 
serious SMD work, stay off the espresso!

But it really isn't necessary to use a double soldering pen to remove a 
bitty 0603 chip. It goes like this:

Use a normal solder pen with a small pointed tip.

1. Melt solder at left-hand end of chip.

2. Switch to right-hand end, melt solder there.

3. Back to left.

4. Ri...   Oh, it already came off.  Wasn't that easy?



[1] For lighting, get one of these - it's brilliant!

USA: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50128713

UK: http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/50128708


More info here:
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek/in-prac/best-of.htm#0809


-- 

73 from Ian GM3SEK 'In Practice' columnist for RadCom (RSGB)
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek
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[Elecraft] Auto Tuners Revisited

2010-02-01 Thread Phil Hystad
I am thinking that there is a potential new product to be developed.  An 
auto-tuner that can fill the gaps that the other great products miss (e.g. 
Palstar AT-AUTO).  Or, maybe Elecraft is thinking along these lines.

For a full legal limit antenna coupler, I submit the following "wish-list" new 
features or enhancements to the existing state of the art:


(1)  Separate the controls and displays into a control head desk top type unit 
and leave the actual tuning hardware with all of its bulk in another box to be 
hidden away somewhere (maybe even outside in the weather).  Connection cable 
should be high-speed serial (e.g. USB).

Comment:  legal limit tuners can sometimes be huge things and they would take 
up a lot of valuable space on a desktop.  Surely we can separate them.


(2)  Provide for multiple input/output ports.  Ideally something like at least 
two radio+amplifier inputs and possibly even 4.  And, multiple antenna outputs, 
probably 4.  I would not include a balanced line output since a good current 
balun should be an independent choice for a particular antenna and not 
something built into the tuner.  Also, the location for the current balun is 
not necessarily the same location as the tuner (i.e. the separate box as per 
item 1 above).


(3)  Given the multiple  radio-amplifier input and antenna output ports, the 
logic and memory choices for a match are port dependent and that information 
should be in the memory storage.  Program logic in the tuner should allow for 
the unique attributes of each radio.  I am suggesting that once a radio and 
amplifier combination is associated with a given input port that their may be 
some software configuration necessary so this is not a dynamic (during 
operation) changeable setup.

(4)  Interface cables may be needed to be connected to the radio (tuner 
control) and to amplifier for amp bypass.  Ideally it would seem that such 
cables can be daisy-chained to minimize cable complexity with the tuner logic 
properly blocking out radios that are not selected.  Only one input port can be 
selected at a time.  Of course, there may be even better and simpler ways to do 
this.
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Re: [Elecraft] Unable to resolve apparent S-meter noise level on K3 with AGC on

2010-02-01 Thread Lance Wilson

Laurent, doing this made absolutely no difference. All it did is equalize the
readings between preamp, att, and neither. I believe that is what this
setting is supposed to do but it did not fix my underlying issue.
-- 
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Re: [Elecraft] 2M with K3 - anyone doing it?

2010-02-01 Thread Julian, G4ILO


Kjeld Holm wrote:
> 
> 
> Not exactly an answer to your question but in my oppimion you should
> consider an old Icom IC-275E or IC-275H (25 or 100 W) before making your
> decission. See this link http://df9ic.de/tech/trxtest/trxtest.html
> 
> 
That article makes a questionable assumption: "The IP3 is less important
than LO and TX noise performance as there are usually only few strong and
very strong signals on 144 MHz."

I live in a VHF desert and can usually hear nothing at all but when a
contest is on and the portables take to the Dumfries and Galloway hills
which are line of sight across the water their signals are MASSIVE. The only
time I have ever seen the K3 S-meter reading "end-stop" is on 2m. I can work
these guys using 2.5W to rubber duck on an FT-817 standing on the shack
desk.

So I think IP3 is very important on VHF.

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
* G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
* KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
* KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html

-- 
View this message in context: 
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Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net results (1-31-10)

2010-02-01 Thread Phillip Shepard
Two minor corrections.  39 participants and s/n 99 for K8EAG.  Have a good
week.

73,

Phil

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phillip Shepard
Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2010 7:33 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net results (1-31-10)

We had a very good net today.  Signals were generally strong, and we had 38
participants over the 35 minute net.  The discussions centered on shipment
status/dates for the upgraded DSP PCB and the P3.  Here is the list of the
group:

Station NameQTH Rig S/N

W4RKS   Jim AL  K3  3618
KA0NCR  Arnie   NE  K3  185
W0FMTerry   MO  K3  474
NZ0TBillKS  K3  1502
VE1JS   JohnNS  K3  3486
N4LCD   PaulGA  K3  350
W4CCS   Scott   GA  K3  2090
K4GCJ   Garry   NC  K3  1597
K4AEN   Tom VA  K3  3497
KY1RK   Robert  NC  K3  1461
W4TMCaryVA  K3  3491
KJ4ZM   Sam SC  Omni 6+
W9DVM   PhilFL  K3  1605
K2QYJohnNY  K3  3845
K8MBY   PhilOH  K3  609
N9YKE   Don WI  K3  2505
KA1OZ   DickMA  K3  859
WB8RAE  BillNY  K3  2389
AB4THarry   NC  K3  1471
KB9AVS  Steve   IN  K3  2443
K7SJRoger   WA  K3  75
AB2TC   Ken NY  K3  82
K8EAG   Gil MI  K3  95?
KA5KKT  DickKY  K3  1030
ZL1PWD  Peter   NZ  K3  139
AC9DDickCA  K3  3697
K4KBB   JohnNC  K3  2566
VE4QZ   DougMB  K3  1021
W8YMO   Harry   OH  K3  166
K1BBM   JohnMA  K3  2579
K4CCH   Charlie GA  K3  3509
W1LGX   DaleME  TS440
W6VYBob CA  K3  2765
KB0YH   Gus CO  K3  441
KA8PDan MI  K3  3320
AE6IC   FredCA  K3  2241
NQ3NBob NJ  K3  2829
W2RWA   DickNY  K3  2603
NS7PPhilOR  K3  1826


73,

Phil, NS7P


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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Attenuator and RF Gain Settings

2010-02-01 Thread Hector Padron
Thanks Johny,that's the best way to operate any radio,unfortunately it has a 
small negative part and is that the S meter will move up been out of 
calibration when you turn the RF gain counterclockwise but that's not a big 
deal after all.Only radio I remember will read always the same S level no 
matter where you set the RF gain is the TT Orion that I owned for a year.
So we all are waiting still for the P4 right ?
 
AD4C

"For a refined ham it is compulsory to own a k3"

--- On Mon, 2/1/10, Johnny Siu  wrote:


From: Johnny Siu 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Attenuator and RF Gain Settings
To: "Hector Padron" , "Jim Brown" 

Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Monday, February 1, 2010, 2:56 PM


Hello Hector,

I concur your view.  I always lower the RF gain to a point equal to the band 
noise in the s meter.  I find many operators just let the RF gain always fully 
clockwise.  Of course, 6m will need a bit more sensitivity.

73

Johnny VR2XMC



- 郵件原件 
寄件人﹕ Hector Padron 
收件人﹕ Jim Brown 
副本(CC) elecraft@mailman.qth.net
傳送日期﹕ 2010/2/1 (一) 10:09:07 PM
主題: Re: [Elecraft] Attenuator and RF Gain Settings

I am 61 years old and more than 40 as a ham and always since I started on 
hamradio with the tube type receivers has used the volumen control almost to 
the maximun and then control the signal with the RF gain control,no matter 
which radio you will be using,this is the best way to cut down band noise and 
close freq QRM,,without a doubt the K3 is the highest performer in the market 
and doing this it will work even better,I have never used my preamp,not even on 
10M,the K3 has enough sensitivity not to use it,on 40 and 80M I always have my 
ATT engaged and I am able to pull any weak dx station no matter how weak it is 
and even with a strong one at 2Khz away my freq.
My two cents.
 
AD4C

"For a refined ham it is compulsory to own a k3"

--- On Sun, 1/31/10, Jim Brown  wrote:


From: Jim Brown 
Subject: [Elecraft] Attenuator and RF Gain Settings
To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
Date: Sunday, January 31, 2010, 10:09 PM


On Sun, 31 Jan 2010 14:23:33 -0500, Brian Machesney wrote:

>For the first time, I turned on the K3's ATT and found that I was even
>better able to separate callers, particularly when trying to pick out
>relatively weaker EU signals from stronger NA signals responding to my CQ.

Those of us with lots of grey hair learned 50 years ago that the most 
important control on our receiver was the RF Gain. They didn't come with 
attenuators or preamps in those days, but we also learned to switch them to 
a shorter antenna when they got overloaded. 

With a modern radio, on bands below 20M, the ATTenuator should almost 
always be ON and the PREamp should almost always be OFF for the greatest 
ability to separate weak signals from strong ones. On 20M you can usually 
turn off the ATTenuator, but you may not need the preamp until you go to 
higher bands. 

Another hint -- to pull really weak ones out from between strong signals, 
turn down the RF gain to the point where you are just hearing the weak one. 
During the 160M contest this weekend, preamp was off, ATT was on, and my RF 
gains were at about 2'o'clock. 

73,
Jim K9YC


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      Yahoo!香港提供網上安全攻略,教你如何防範黑客! 請前往 http://hk.promo.yahoo.com/security/ 了解更多!




  
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Re: [Elecraft] 2M with K3 - anyone doing it?

2010-02-01 Thread Allan G Duncan
Hi Mike,

I use my K3 and XV144 transverter in my 2m portable contest station.

There is a short video on YouTube at RSGB VHF National Field Day here:-

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YJUN9qUFJYM

It makes for a competitive contest setup.

I also use my K3 with a modified XV50 for the 70Mhz band here in the UK.

HF transceiver and good transverter beats a dedicated mono band VHF rig
every time for me.

73

Allan
GM4ZUK



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-bounces at mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Michael M. Raskin
Sent: 31. januar 2010 03:35
To: elecraft at mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] 2M with K3 - anyone doing it?

I recently picked up a used THL 500V 2M amp.  I want to drive it with my K3,
which has no 2M capability.  The K144KV-F internal 2M module only has 10
Watts output, which is not enough to drive the THP 500V to 500 Watts.  The
KV144 2M transverter has enough power to do it, but it has to be external
and is a kit, something difficult with my increasing age.  Since Elecraft
does not plan to have an internal 2M module with more than 10 Watts, would I
be better off with the external transverter since I want to do 2M
terrestrial as well as EME?  Or should I give up on the K3 for 2M EME and
wait for the new ICOM to be released?

Mike, W4UM


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 & 160m rx antennas

2010-02-01 Thread r miles
I run a K3 with a 500w amp. No aux receiver. I use an 8' receiving  loop on 
160m. It is rotatable & fed into an ICE 135b preamp then to the K3 Rx ant 
connector. Transmitting ant. is a simple OCF dipole @50'. Not as good as the L 
probably. I have had  the loop  up  just this winter. From NW Tn the loop is 
better most of the time receiving SA than the dipole. Most other directions 
it's equal or worse MOST of the time.But every day is different. During CQ WW 
160m PY0F was always  better with the dipole. The week  before the contest the 
loop was two S units better to PY0F.
Last night YV1DIG was also two S units better on the dipole. Some nights the 
UAs are a bit better on the loop.
I run the K3 pre amp all the time. Either antenna.I have the 1.8/.400 & .250  8 
pole filters. I normally run  at .200 bandwidth.I only operate CW.
Some mornings I hr. JA well & some mornings NADA.  It depends on the Flux. When 
the  A & K are low I hear the best.
What I do is as soon as I hr. the DX I punch the loop in to see which is 
hearing better. The back ground noise level is obviously lower on the loop & so 
are the signals. 
We are in different parts of the country so we'll  have propagation 
differently.This is no expert opinion just what I've observed.
CU in the pile ups
K9IL

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[Elecraft] Popping out of diversity mode

2010-02-01 Thread Julius Fazekas n2wn

During the contest this past weekend, my K3 would pop out of diversity mode
on it's own, from time to time. This occurred when running or during S&P.

I don't think I was doing anything to cause it, but it's not out of the
question.

Has anyone else experienced this?

thanks for all the K3 and K2 QSOs :o)

73,
Julius
n2wn

-
Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html

Tennessee QSO Party
http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
Elecraft K3#1875
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Re: [Elecraft] Popping out of diversity mode

2010-02-01 Thread Grant Youngman
Were you using the K3 as a computer peripheral or in standalone radio mode?

Grant/NQ5T


On Feb 1, 2010, at 2:05 PM, Julius Fazekas n2wn wrote:

> 
> During the contest this past weekend, my K3 would pop out of diversity mode
> on it's own, from time to time. This occurred when running or during S&P.
> 
> I don't think I was doing anything to cause it, but it's not out of the
> question.

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Re: [Elecraft] Popping out of diversity mode

2010-02-01 Thread Jim Brown
On Mon, 1 Feb 2010 12:05:01 -0800 (PST), Julius Fazekas n2wn wrote:

>During the contest this past weekend, my K3 would pop out of diversity mode
>on it's own, from time to time. This occurred when running or during S&P.

For a long time, I've had problems with the two RX losing sync in diversity 
mode. Symptom is that one RX is several hundred Hz from the other after a 
transmission. Wiggle the RX RIT knob and they re-sync. 

I've corresponded with Wayne on this. He has no ideas why, and has not been 
able to reproduce it. One hypothesis is RFI. It only happens on 160, and my 
TX antenna is only 25 ft from the shack, with only wood walls in the way. It 
happened only a few times this weekend with 100W, but a lot more often 
running 1.5kW, so RFI might be part of the mechanism. As you might guess, 
I've got mondo coax chokes in line. :)  

73,

Jim K9YC 


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Re: [Elecraft] Popping out of diversity mode

2010-02-01 Thread Julius Fazekas n2wn

Hi Grant,

I guess you would call it a peripheral, it was connected to the logging
computer...

-
Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html

Tennessee QSO Party
http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
Elecraft K3#1875
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Re: [Elecraft] Popping out of diversity mode

2010-02-01 Thread Richard Ferch
N2WN wrote:

> During the contest this past weekend, my K3 would pop out of diversity mode
> on it's own, from time to time. This occurred when running or during S&P.
> 

Julius,

This sounds like a software issue.

In the ARRL 160 at VE2OJ using N1MM Logger, we forgot to check "Dual RX 
Always On", and we kept on losing diversity mode whenever we used the 
software to change the tuning (e.g. RIT from the keyboard). During the 
CQ 160 CW, we had "Dual RX Always On" checked, and the only time we had 
problems with diversity mode was when we clicked on a cluster spot with 
a split frequency. Apart from that, we ran with diversity on almost all 
the time with no dropouts, except when we deliberately turned it off so 
we could use the subRX to S&P during a slow run late in the contest.

73,
Rich VE3KI
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[Elecraft] Diversity antenna selection oddity

2010-02-01 Thread Brett Howard
Am I imagining things or did selecting diversity previously
automatically put the to receivers on different antennas.

The other day I was trying to do some testing to measure filters in
each receiver so I was using Diversity to try and get things onto the
same frequency and so that I could do measurements on both RXs on the
same freq...

Anyway I was having a hard time seeing things on the second RX...
Until I realized I was doing diversity with both receivers on the same
antenna.  I could have swore that previously when both RXs were on the
same antenna that a long hold of SUB would put me in diversity with
two different antennas and then when I exited diversity that it would
go back to the way I had things...  Am I remembering wrong and mixing
dreams with reality or did something recently change?

~Brett (KC7OTG)
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Re: [Elecraft] Popping out of diversity mode

2010-02-01 Thread Julius Fazekas n2wn

Interesting Jim, and that indeed may be the mechanism. I should have noted
exactly where and when it happened. 

Something is not quite kosher with the antenna on the lower 15 KHz of the
band and I've not done anything to improve it (or as I fear ruin an
excellent antenna) yet.

My TX antenna is as close as yours to the shack.

fortunately, didn't really "need" diversity this weekend. QSB wasn't a real
issue... QRN and QRM on the other hand *sigh*

Think there must have been a LOT of K3s out and about the way folks were
packed in the tin ;o)

Think Grant may have been heading in the same direction with his post...

It wouldn't be the first Top Band RFI issue in this shack, but it's easier
to combat and this antenna needs maintenance this Spring anyway.

Cheers,
Julius

-
Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html

Tennessee QSO Party
http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
Elecraft K3#1875
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[Elecraft] P3 Status?

2010-02-01 Thread David and Dianne on Comcast
P3 Status?

Hey guys on the Mothership, how about a hint?

It's been a long time...since August.

Please throw us a bone to pick.

73 de N1LQ-Dave
K3 #371

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 & Beverages on 160

2010-02-01 Thread Geoffrey Downs
Another factor may be the ground the beverage runs over. Beverages perform 
well over poor ground but poorly over good ground such as a saltmarsh.

Good luck Gary

73 to all

Geoff
G3UCK

- Original Message - 
From: "Guy Olinger K2AV" 

Using a house ground for a signal ground on a beverage will IMPOSE
house noise on the beverage, rendering it useless and apparently
without pattern.

On Sun, Jan 31, 2010 at 12:23 PM, Gary Smith  wrote:
> It's my understanding the Beverage is supposed to be a quiet antenna
> but as mine are not, perhaps there's an obvious reason why mine
> behave so badly? #1 is in a salt marsh with nothing around it and #2
> runs along the marsh and terminates just before railroad tracks.
>
> I surely must be doing something wrong.
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Popping out of diversity mode

2010-02-01 Thread Bill W4ZV


Julius Fazekas n2wn wrote:
> 
> fortunately, didn't really "need" diversity this weekend. QSB wasn't a
> real issue... 
> 

Diversity is not just useful for signals from one direction.  I used
diversity continually this weekend to allow simultaneous copy from two
different directions.  This could also be done with an external splitter but
I like the added flexibility of diversity using Beverages on one input and
an RX 4SQ on the other.  

When running EU I used a phased Beverage pair NE and set the 4SQ NW for
Western NA stations.  When running JA (wishful thinking!) I also listened NE
on the 4SQ for W1-4 stations.  

Of course for extreme cases I could quickly switch both antennas to the same
direction.

73,  Bill
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Re: [Elecraft] Popping out of diversity mode

2010-02-01 Thread Julius Fazekas n2wn

Thanks Rich, I'll look into that when I get back out to the shack. I still
use the knobs to tune, even RIT/XIT, but it's worth checking it out. I was
too focused most of the time on making contacts, so missed any "clues". 

Thanks for the QSOs in both contests, more so in this one, those 5 pointers
really matter!

Cheers,
Julius

-
Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html

Tennessee QSO Party
http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
Elecraft K3#1875
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Re: [Elecraft] Diversity antenna selection oddity

2010-02-01 Thread Richard Ferch
KC7OTG wrote:

> Am I imagining things or did selecting diversity previously
> automatically put the to receivers on different antennas.
> 

Brett,

A long hold of SUB puts the second RX in diversity mode, but it does not 
affect the antenna selection. Holding the RX ANT button toggles the 
second RX between the transmit antenna (called MAIN) and the second 
antenna (AUX).

73,
Rich VE3KI
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[Elecraft] FS: KIO2 + KAF2

2010-02-01 Thread Robert Brown

For sale, fully functional KIO2 + KAF2 (have decided to keep my K2 simple).  
$50 shipped (CONUS) for the KIO2, $40 shipped (same) for the KAF2.  Please 
reply off list.

73 de

Bob Brown, N1CVX
sashan...@yahoo.com



  
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[Elecraft] Begali Magnetic Traveler Light magnetic paddle (for K1?)

2010-02-01 Thread Robert Brown

Mint Begali Traveler Traveler Light magnetic paddle, $290 shipped CONUS.  Would 
also entertain possible trades for late serial no. K1 (preferably 4 band with 
backlight).  Please reply off list.

73 de

Bob Brown, N1CVX
sashan...@yahoo.com


  
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Re: [Elecraft] Diversity antenna selection oddity

2010-02-01 Thread Brett Howard
I could have swore it changed it for you before...  Can anyone think of
a time that one would want the two receivers PLL locked and listening to
the same antenna?  

This makes me wonder if I've ever missed that and thought I was doing
diversity but instead I was using two receivers to listen to the same
antenna.

Perhaps this could be an enhancement to go in and out of this...  That
is of course unless there is a reason that I'm missing why one would
want to be in diversity mode yet still have both receivers on the same
antenna port.  Seems like if that was something one would want to do
they could use LINK and then hit A>B twice.  But in diversity it seems
like that should always be used on two antenna inputs.

Thoughts?

~Brett

On Mon, 2010-02-01 at 18:22 -0500, Richard Ferch wrote:
> KC7OTG wrote:
> 
> > Am I imagining things or did selecting diversity previously
> > automatically put the to receivers on different antennas.
> > 
> 
> Brett,
> 
> A long hold of SUB puts the second RX in diversity mode, but it does not 
> affect the antenna selection. Holding the RX ANT button toggles the 
> second RX between the transmit antenna (called MAIN) and the second 
> antenna (AUX).
> 
> 73,
> Rich VE3KI
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 mods and methods: smt resistor/capacitor de-soldering

2010-02-01 Thread Brett Howard
We've got a tech who is amazing with a soldering iron.  He has two very
nice soldering irons on the bench next to him at all times.  All this
guy does is work magic with a soldering iron all day long...

His two irons are one with a bit of a cup in the end of the tip (for
holding solder) and the other is a smaller pencil type.  If he simply
wants to remove a small 2 in SMT component he just sets the largest tip
over the top of the part and then slides it off the pads.  

The only time he uses both irons is if he needs to reuse that SMT
component.  If he's doing that he then just uses the two irons and
simply picks the component up with the irons (one in each hand) that way
the tweezers aren't needed...

Just a few other thoughts...

~BTH  

On Mon, 2010-02-01 at 07:13 -0800, David Windisch wrote:
> It's a process, it's easier than you think, and there is plenty of room for
> creativity.  I don't pretend to know it all; this works for me.
> 
> BASICS:
> 
> Light up the work area.
> 
> Get comfortable seating.
> 
> Buy a pull-down magnifier.  Don't skimp here.  I use OPTI-VISOR, 3X lenses.
> Buy 2 of the physically-smallest low-power soldering pencils.
> Buy a *large* decorative clothes pin.
> Buy various-length, variously-shaped stainless tweezers.
> 
> Attach the pencils to the clothes pin.  Hose-clamps?
> Shim the jaws open so the pencil-tips get proper spacing to (just) clear the
> device, or a skosh less to grab it.
> 
> OPTIONAL: Take a dose of your favorite relaxation agent .
> 
> Take your time.  Practice on junk boards: heat, tweeze, pluck.
> 
> Now you can remove any smt you can get this contraption on to.
> 
> Ymmv.  No pics available.  I'm omitting the green stuff and presenting only
> basics.  Real tools cost BIG bucks.
> 
> Brgds, Dave, W8FGX


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[Elecraft] IT IS ALIVE

2010-02-01 Thread n0jrn
My XV50 is up and running...

Been a lot of fun working through the problems I had getting it to this 
point. ( mostly at my own hand :)

But it's cooken now !

Thanks to all who help me complete this particular project.

I have but one other peace of equipment to complete the Elecraft shack. 
That will be an XV144

QRV from 160 to 144 including 60 with one rig...

Priceless !

73 all   Jerry   N0JRN 

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[Elecraft] K3 Number 3903 is rising from the bags of bolts and boards

2010-02-01 Thread Bob - W0GI

It arrived. 2 1/2 hours building so far, and it is starting to look like a
radio.

Too much coffee, and I may call it a night, before I start messing up. :>) 

http://www.gotoloveland.com/pictures2/K3-1.jpg
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[Elecraft] New Power Supply

2010-02-01 Thread Ruben Navarro Huedo
Hello friends:
I am using a Samlex SEC1223 with my K3.
I have some "electric-noise" on low bands (80 and 40 meters) and i think 
it comes from the power supply. I have been reading other friends with 
the same problem.
I want test another one.
What is your recomendation?

Thank's a lot.

-- 
Rubén Navarro Huedo - EA5BZ
http://www.palotes.com
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