Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Field Day observations
I received my KX3 about a week ahead of FD. Therefore, I hadn't much experience with it. We were running 2A on solar power; the other rig was a K2. FWIW: The features in the KX3 allowed me to about double my QSO rate as compared to the K2 and other rigs I have used. My general impression is that the KX3 makes an ideal, or nearly so, FD radio. We ran 546 Q's on these two radios. Why didn't we do better? Operator fatigue. Had we had maybe three more operators we probably could have made 1000 Q's. And, we were QRP!!! What was amusing is the comment of one of our operators. He is a QRO contest op who likes to run full legal limit. He kept commenting that he couldn't believe what we were doing at 5W. Oh, yes. He owns a K3. Wayne/Eric, You guys done good!! The KX3 is a keeper! Vy 73, Barry K3NDM - Original Message - From: "Wayne Burdick" To: "Phillip Shepard" Cc: "Elecraft Reflector" Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2012 10:25:05 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Field Day observations Thanks for the report, Phillip. We had two KX3s at our FD site (K6SRA) with similar results. Regarding VFO tuning noise, did you try using RX SHFT on the affected band(s)? This turns out to be very effective, especially in combination with VFO NR. Both menu entries can be set up per-band, and are typically needed only the highest bands. 73, Wayne N6KR On Jun 24, 2012, at 5:34 PM, Phillip Shepard wrote: > Field Day this weekend was the first real test of my new KX3 (s/n > 268). > Before Saturday it had only seen light picnic table use and one SOTA > peak > activation. How did I like it during FD? This is one sweet little > radio! > I operated somewhat casually in a search and pounce mode, with 90% > of the > QSOs on CW and the rest on SSB. > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions?
>I am looking at getting a CW key for the FT817... 817? How about the Palm Paddles? A perfect companion. Not bigger or heavier heavier than the xcvr, like the Elecraft Hex Key would be (my favourite until I bought my Begali Magnetic Pro). Seems I like the magnetic return best, but the Palm sticks to the 817 like glue. (OK, magnetic glue :-) Ralph, VE7XF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Field Day 2012 with K2-7006
aj4tf wrote : >Date: June 24, 2012 4:32:54 PM EDT >To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net >Subject: [Elecraft] Field Day 2012 with K2-7006 >If you have W4UA in your field day log on either 15m or 75/80m, then you >heard K2/100 #7006 on the air. It stayed powered for about 23 hours >straight. Unfortunately *I* could not stay powered up for 23 hours >straight, so I had to relinquish command to another operator last night. >15m was really open to California and Texas from our location (NC), we made >many contacts there. >73, >de AJ4TF I operated Field Day as Class 1E from my cottage in QC using K2/10 #5995 running 5W. It was a pretty casual operation for me, mostly CW, but it was also the first contest that I have participated in since recently building / installing the KAT2 and KSB2. I decided that in spite of the fact I was only running 5W, I should also try to make at least a few SSB QSOs to get a feel for how the SSB option was working. I was very pleased to get an unsolicited comment on how good my SSB audio was (I am using a Kenwood MC-43S hand mic). I am certain that the station on the other end had no idea I was QRP. I was also very pleased with the operation of the KAT2 tuner. I normally use an external LDG autotuner. Having the internal tuner was very slick and made band changing and switching between my two antennas (a 204 ft doublet & an inverted-L W3EDP) very painless. The K2 was an absolute joy to use for Field Day, which I guess is not too surprising, as it was designed by Eric and Wayne to be "the Ultimate Field Day rig". Michael VE3WMB / VA2NB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Thanks to W3PFR, KK5F
Tim wrote: > ...I was able to find the problem as a bad connection on the > tuning pot. Good going. It doesn't explain the original problem of no transmit or receive, however, so that must have been an entirely separate issue that may come back. 73, Mike / KK5F __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] power line question
On 06/24/2012 07:26 PM, Jim Wiley wrote: > Some years back, I was facing a similar issue. I contacted the > electric utility, they suggested I contact one of their approved > suppliers (a local electrical contractor), and go from there. Short > story: They got it done is about a week, and the cost (then) was about > $300. Most electric utility companies have a list of approved > contractors that they use, primarily for new construction. The > utility service department normally does not have the personnel for > new construction work (there is too much of it) and usually comes into > play for repair work only. OK, thanks. I will check with a local contractor. Yeah, I know that some folks already got frustrated this being "off topic" but I did not have anyone else to turn to. If anyone else has good suggestions, email me directly to keep the list traffic minimum. Thanks, Jussi Eloranta, AA6KJ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Field Day observations
I did try those and they work. It wasn't a real issue for me, since I was not doing many fast QSYs. Usually used freq entry for that. It's a great portable rig! My K2 may get lonely now, hi hi. 73, Phil, NS7P -Original Message- From: Wayne Burdick [mailto:n...@elecraft.com] Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2012 7:25 PM To: Phillip Shepard Cc: Elecraft Reflector Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Field Day observations Thanks for the report, Phillip. We had two KX3s at our FD site (K6SRA) with similar results. Regarding VFO tuning noise, did you try using RX SHFT on the affected band(s)? This turns out to be very effective, especially in combination with VFO NR. Both menu entries can be set up per-band, and are typically needed only the highest bands. 73, Wayne N6KR On Jun 24, 2012, at 5:34 PM, Phillip Shepard wrote: > Field Day this weekend was the first real test of my new KX3 (s/n > 268). > Before Saturday it had only seen light picnic table use and one SOTA > peak > activation. How did I like it during FD? This is one sweet little > radio! > I operated somewhat casually in a search and pounce mode, with 90% > of the > QSOs on CW and the rest on SSB. > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] power line question
Some years back, I was facing a similar issue. I contacted the electric utility, they suggested I contact one of their approved suppliers (a local electrical contractor), and go from there. Short story: They got it done is about a week, and the cost (then) was about $300. Most electric utility companies have a list of approved contractors that they use, primarily for new construction. The utility service department normally does not have the personnel for new construction work (there is too much of it) and usually comes into play for repair work only. - Jim, KL7CC Jussi Eloranta wrote: > Hi, > > This is not directly related to Elecraft but it does have implications > on the use of my K3 ;-) > > I live in one of those "cursed" properties that have overhead power > lines in the backyard (from the service pole; the pole itself is in the > neighbors yard, at least...) and you may guess that this does not mix > well with antennas. Right now I am very limited putting anything decent > up without serous safety concerns. Does anyone have any experience in > burying the overhead cables (from the service pole to the house) > underground in So Cal, serviced by Southern California Edison? How > expensive would such an operation be? > > Thanks, > > Jussi Eloranta, AA6KJ > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Field Day observations
Thanks for the report, Phillip. We had two KX3s at our FD site (K6SRA) with similar results. Regarding VFO tuning noise, did you try using RX SHFT on the affected band(s)? This turns out to be very effective, especially in combination with VFO NR. Both menu entries can be set up per-band, and are typically needed only the highest bands. 73, Wayne N6KR On Jun 24, 2012, at 5:34 PM, Phillip Shepard wrote: > Field Day this weekend was the first real test of my new KX3 (s/n > 268). > Before Saturday it had only seen light picnic table use and one SOTA > peak > activation. How did I like it during FD? This is one sweet little > radio! > I operated somewhat casually in a search and pounce mode, with 90% > of the > QSOs on CW and the rest on SSB. > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] power line question [WOT]
I guess I'm in a grumpy mood, but this tread needs a "WOT" header - WAY Off Topic. At least I can't see any Elecraft connection. Bye, Bill N2BC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Fred Jensen Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2012 9:55 PM To: Elecraft Reflector Subject: Re: [Elecraft] power line question On 6/24/2012 6:44 PM, Jussi Eloranta wrote: > Does anyone have any experience in > burying the overhead cables (from the service pole to the house) > underground in So Cal, serviced by Southern California Edison? How > expensive would such an operation be? The service entrance from the pole pig to your meter [and the meter] are the property of the utility, and they have an implied easement for it because you wanted electricity and pay your bill. How they run it is their choice. They might bury the lines for you, get your checkbook out. We're on Pacific Gas and Electric and they've flatly refused for some of our neighbors. Maybe SCE is more people friendly, but good luck, it's not likely one of the many priorities [like maybe San Onofre?]. 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012 - www.cqp.org __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Thanks to W3PFR, KK5F
Re: K-1 Frequency jump. Thanks to advice from Don (W3PFR) and Mike (KK5F) I was able to find the problem as a bad connection on the tuning pot. 72, Tim K3HX PS HPE C U in ARCI Summer Homebrew Sprint 07 Jul. www.arci.org NetZero now offers 4G mobile broadband. Sign up now. http://www.netzero.net/?refcd=NZINTISP0512T4GOUT1 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] power line question
On 6/24/2012 6:44 PM, Jussi Eloranta wrote: > Does anyone have any experience in > burying the overhead cables (from the service pole to the house) > underground in So Cal, serviced by Southern California Edison? How > expensive would such an operation be? The service entrance from the pole pig to your meter [and the meter] are the property of the utility, and they have an implied easement for it because you wanted electricity and pay your bill. How they run it is their choice. They might bury the lines for you, get your checkbook out. We're on Pacific Gas and Electric and they've flatly refused for some of our neighbors. Maybe SCE is more people friendly, but good luck, it's not likely one of the many priorities [like maybe San Onofre?]. 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012 - www.cqp.org __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?
I had a J-38 as a kid (as many of us did) and started to feet nostalgic about it. A few years back I bought one on E-bay. So now I don't feel nostalgic anymore, but I also don't use the J-28. Keys have come a long way since WW II and thankfully so. It was a nice key when it was a buck fifty but now I see mint J-38 are going in the $50 range. No for me. Tom wb2qdg K2 1103 On 6/24/2012 9:14 PM, Bill K9YEQ wrote: > I had the J-38 and to this day am so sorry I sold it. It was in mint > condition. I have yet to find one that is clean and intact for a reasonable > price. > > 73, > Bill > K9YEQ > > > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ? - And a Story of the true Ham Spirit!
I gave away my J-38, mined from a WWII "surplus store" in the early 1950's, to a new Novice years ago after I switched all of my CW operating using paddles and, eventually, grew to regret it when I returned to a bug and straight key. Then I ran into Larry, W6CCW, in Northern California on 40 meter CW one evening. Larry had for some years used a barefoot HW-8 (2 watts output) and had saved to buy a 100 watt rig. He finally did so and "gave" his new rig to himself for Christmas early one December. Then he learned that a disabled friend nearby had a rig that failed, putting him off the air and out of contact with his friends on both CW and SSB. He could not afford to repair it. So Larry wrapped up his new rig and gave it to his friend for Christmas, and dug his 2-watt HW-8 out of storage. I had used an HW-8 for years before building my K2 in 2000. Over the years I had built an outboard amp for it that ran about 15 watts output - a BIG step up over the 2-watts the HW-8 ran barefoot. I learned Larry's story during a rag-chew we had on 40 meters one evening. So I sent my amp off to Larry to hang onto his HW-8. A box arrived in my mail one day. It was from Larry. Inside was a J-38 that he had kept in his junk box for many years and had dug out after hearing me mention that I had given mine away to a Novice many years ago. It's a beautiful key from a Ham who, IMHO, knows the true spirit of Amateur Radio. 73, Ron AC7AC -Original Message- I had the J-38 and to this day am so sorry I sold it. It was in mint condition. I have yet to find one that is clean and intact for a reasonable price. 73, Bill K9YEQ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] power line question
Hi, This is not directly related to Elecraft but it does have implications on the use of my K3 ;-) I live in one of those "cursed" properties that have overhead power lines in the backyard (from the service pole; the pole itself is in the neighbors yard, at least...) and you may guess that this does not mix well with antennas. Right now I am very limited putting anything decent up without serous safety concerns. Does anyone have any experience in burying the overhead cables (from the service pole to the house) underground in So Cal, serviced by Southern California Edison? How expensive would such an operation be? Thanks, Jussi Eloranta, AA6KJ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?
N3ZN Keys. Beautiful, precision, fully adjustable, AMERICAN made. I have lots of keys(including Schurr) and it’s the one I use. Leroy AB7CE -Original Message- From: John Strandberg Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2012 6:59 PM To: Ronald Nutter Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ? I am on the same path, just ordered a KX3 and likewise will add the paddle to the order before I receive the 'Christmas present'. I've been moving slowly towards CW over the last 2 years and have had a Vibroplex Iambic on my 'list' the whole time. About 6 weeks ago, I picked up at Nye-Viking straight key. It took a while to feel comfortable with it but through the same time period, my copy speed got better. I recommend the Nye-Viking for a straight key. Having read the Begali reviews for 2 years (similar to Elecraft for product function and quality, engineering & customer service reviews), I sprung for the Begali Simplex. Received it this past Thursday. It was a little more $, but after having hooked it up and used it - it's a purchase I'll never regret. 73 John W4DX On Sun, Jun 24, 2012 at 8:23 PM, Ronald Nutter wrote: > Thanks to all that have responded to my previous questions. > > The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key. I am thinking about > getting the "plug-in" key that is an option for KX3. Since the KX3 that > I have ordered probably wont be in my hands until sometime around > Christmas based on the other emails I see of order date to ship date, I > am looking at getting a CW key for the FT817 I will be using in the > interim. > > I am thinking about possibly getting two different keys - a straight > key, possibly a Nye-Viking type and maybe something similar to the > Iambic keyer paddle as my cw skills improve. While I probably wont do > CW all of the time, it doesnt hurt to be more fluent in that mode than I > currently am. > > Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has. > > Thanks, > Ron > KA4KYI > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?
Ron, Nye-Viking certainly would be a good choice for a straight key. I recommend taking a look at the new-old stock Czech military keys on eBay. I have one, and it is very smooth. It looks unusual, but if you take it into the field at all with your KX3, that cover will do a nice job of keeping the 'skeeters out! ;-) With best regards, Pete W1PNS - Original Message - From: "Ronald Nutter" To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2012 8:23:51 PM Subject: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ? Thanks to all that have responded to my previous questions. The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key. I am thinking about getting the "plug-in" key that is an option for KX3. Since the KX3 that I have ordered probably wont be in my hands until sometime around Christmas based on the other emails I see of order date to ship date, I am looking at getting a CW key for the FT817 I will be using in the interim. I am thinking about possibly getting two different keys - a straight key, possibly a Nye-Viking type and maybe something similar to the Iambic keyer paddle as my cw skills improve. While I probably wont do CW all of the time, it doesnt hurt to be more fluent in that mode than I currently am. Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has. Thanks, Ron KA4KYI __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?
Hi Ron, You will probably get many different suggestions about keys. I would suggest picking up a good used Bencher paddle at a flee market or on the internet sites. Probably get one for around $50. I have three of them, one in my truck and two here in the shack. They look fragile but can take a beating. When my grand daughter (four years old) is here she likes to play with the one on the operating desk. I have to make sure the rig is not live when she is here. It take her abuse and keeps on ticking. And the one in the truck gets bounced around quite a bit but never stops working. They send CW pretty good also. ;o) Good luck es 73, Joe K2UF No trees were harmed in the sending of this e-mail; however, many electrons were inconvenienced. -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ronald Nutter Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2012 8:24 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ? Thanks to all that have responded to my previous questions. The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key. I am thinking about getting the "plug-in" key that is an option for KX3. Since the KX3 that I have ordered probably wont be in my hands until sometime around Christmas based on the other emails I see of order date to ship date, I am looking at getting a CW key for the FT817 I will be using in the interim. I am thinking about possibly getting two different keys - a straight key, possibly a Nye-Viking type and maybe something similar to the Iambic keyer paddle as my cw skills improve. While I probably wont do CW all of the time, it doesnt hurt to be more fluent in that mode than I currently am. Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has. Thanks, Ron KA4KYI __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off - SOLVED
I have been told, sometimes by reliable sources, that proper crimping actually pressure welds the contact to the copper wire. Soldering on the other hand heats the copper to around 750F and it then cools fairly fast which hardens it. Then, under vibration, it fatigues and breaks. I've heard this said about soldering dipole connections too. I can tell you that NASA crimped [very carefully] and did not solder on the Apollo program. 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012 - www.cqp.org On 6/24/2012 4:55 PM, Hisashi T Fujinaka wrote: > What does the maritime industry use? Anyone work at Boeing who can tell > me why they (I think) crimp instead of solder? I thought I remembered > that it's because crimps are stronger over the long-term under > vibration. I could be making it all up. > > I'm just curious if there's a reason or if people are just talking for > the sake of talking. I've had lots more solder joints fail than crimps, > but I've had crimps fail too. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?
I had the J-38 and to this day am so sorry I sold it. It was in mint condition. I have yet to find one that is clean and intact for a reasonable price. 73, Bill K9YEQ -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2012 7:48 PM To: Ronald Nutter Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ? Ron, For paddles, the Hex Key from Elecraft is always a good choice - it is about half the cost of premium paddles from N3ZN or Bengali (use Google). I recently acquired a single lever paddle from Tony N3ZN and can tell you it is a work of art and extremely smooth operating. For straight keys, check out the popular auction sites for J-38 key, or look at the N3ZN straight keys (not yet priced) at http://www.n3znkeys.com/c/7/straight-keys-coming-soon. Nostalgia fever has driven the price of the J-38 key up considerably. Back in the '50s when I was a new ham, they were available for $1 or $2 - but then you could also buy an ARC-5 transmitter or receiver for $5 - we generally stripped those for parts to use in other homebrew projects, but some remain intact and are selling for high prices if they are still in good original condition. 73, Don W3FPR On 6/24/2012 8:23 PM, Ronald Nutter wrote: > Thanks to all that have responded to my previous questions. > > The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key. I am thinking about > getting the "plug-in" key that is an option for KX3. Since the KX3 that > I have ordered probably wont be in my hands until sometime around > Christmas based on the other emails I see of order date to ship date, I > am looking at getting a CW key for the FT817 I will be using in the > interim. > > I am thinking about possibly getting two different keys - a straight > key, possibly a Nye-Viking type and maybe something similar to the > Iambic keyer paddle as my cw skills improve. While I probably wont do > CW all of the time, it doesnt hurt to be more fluent in that mode than I > currently am. > > Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has. > > Thanks, > Ron > KA4KYI __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KPA500 PR6 AUX Cable Pin 11
I use the "Y" cable with the KPA500 AUX cable to connect the KPA500 and the PR6 6m preamp control line to the K3. The RX passthrough for the PR6 to use RX only antennas doesn't work when the KPA500 is connected, powered on or off. Searching the reflector archives, I was relieved to find that I was not alone and that this problem had been identified. The connection of the KPA500 to pin 11 changes the threshold that triggers the PR6 on/off relay so that the PR6 remains on (and hence no passthrough function) no matter what the menu setting of DIGIOUT1 on the K3. Since the pin 11 inhibit function of the KPA500 isn't used at the moment, the "fix" is to open pin 11 in the AUX cable. Rather than damage the cable, I used HD15 M/M and F/F gender changers (I could not find a M/F locally) to create the equivalent of an HD 15 M/F gender changer. I twisted off the male pin 11 creating a pin 11 interrupter essentially the same as the pin 10 interrupter Elecraft supplies with the AUX cable. The PR6 passthrough function and the DIGIOUT1 setting now work correctly. 73 - Steve WB6RSE __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Field Day 2012 with K2-7006
Sounds like you had a blast. Last week I was in Taos, NM (see pic) Sat am worked Japan with the K1 #2999 on 40. Then flew back to VA. We arrived home about 7:00pm. XYL approved a run out to the K4LRG field day sight. Was able to watch four K3's in action. Sunday am, set up my K2 #7261 on the deck and made a quick 12 QSO's. Sunday afternoon I was in the shack and noticed a FT-950 sitting with a FT-450D gathering dust. If I looked at the right angle, I could see a K3 #TBD sitting there. XYL will be thrilled to hear 2 leaving only one coming in. I will explain the need for the P3 when I'm driving the wife and kids to the beach 73 Don K4YND http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/file/n7558082/Taos.jpg -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Field-Day-2012-with-K2-7006-tp7558060p7558082.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?
I am on the same path, just ordered a KX3 and likewise will add the paddle to the order before I receive the 'Christmas present'. I've been moving slowly towards CW over the last 2 years and have had a Vibroplex Iambic on my 'list' the whole time. About 6 weeks ago, I picked up at Nye-Viking straight key. It took a while to feel comfortable with it but through the same time period, my copy speed got better. I recommend the Nye-Viking for a straight key. Having read the Begali reviews for 2 years (similar to Elecraft for product function and quality, engineering & customer service reviews), I sprung for the Begali Simplex. Received it this past Thursday. It was a little more $, but after having hooked it up and used it - it's a purchase I'll never regret. 73 John W4DX On Sun, Jun 24, 2012 at 8:23 PM, Ronald Nutter wrote: > Thanks to all that have responded to my previous questions. > > The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key. I am thinking about > getting the "plug-in" key that is an option for KX3. Since the KX3 that > I have ordered probably wont be in my hands until sometime around > Christmas based on the other emails I see of order date to ship date, I > am looking at getting a CW key for the FT817 I will be using in the > interim. > > I am thinking about possibly getting two different keys - a straight > key, possibly a Nye-Viking type and maybe something similar to the > Iambic keyer paddle as my cw skills improve. While I probably wont do > CW all of the time, it doesnt hurt to be more fluent in that mode than I > currently am. > > Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has. > > Thanks, > Ron > KA4KYI > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off - SOLVED
And if one uses silver based solder? Nope I don't and won't until I need to resupply; which will be quite a while from now. Rick wa6nhc Tiny iPhone keypad, sorry for typos On Jun 24, 2012, at 4:21 PM, "Ron D'Eau Claire" wrote: > Does anyone have actual measurements to indicate that one is *significantly* > better than the other? > > Solder may not be as good a conductor as copper, but we're talking about a > fraction of a millimeter of solder covering the entire mating surface of the > cable and connector through which the current flows. > > IMX working on electronic systems we chose crimping over solder because > crimping is faster than soldering. Even so, I have found that it is as easy > to do a bad crimp job as it is to do a bad soldering job. > > 73, Ron AC7AC > > -Original Message- > > A properly done crimp is better electrically than solder. For one thing, > solder is not a very good conductor. A proper crimp is actually a weld > joining the wire to the terminal. > > Sent from my iPad > > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2- SN 2633 is sold
Hi tho the group -- Thanks to those that responded, however K2 Serial number 2633 has been sold. Rick NU7Z __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?
Ron, For paddles, the Hex Key from Elecraft is always a good choice - it is about half the cost of premium paddles from N3ZN or Bengali (use Google). I recently acquired a single lever paddle from Tony N3ZN and can tell you it is a work of art and extremely smooth operating. For straight keys, check out the popular auction sites for J-38 key, or look at the N3ZN straight keys (not yet priced) at http://www.n3znkeys.com/c/7/straight-keys-coming-soon. Nostalgia fever has driven the price of the J-38 key up considerably. Back in the '50s when I was a new ham, they were available for $1 or $2 - but then you could also buy an ARC-5 transmitter or receiver for $5 - we generally stripped those for parts to use in other homebrew projects, but some remain intact and are selling for high prices if they are still in good original condition. 73, Don W3FPR On 6/24/2012 8:23 PM, Ronald Nutter wrote: > Thanks to all that have responded to my previous questions. > > The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key. I am thinking about > getting the "plug-in" key that is an option for KX3. Since the KX3 that > I have ordered probably wont be in my hands until sometime around > Christmas based on the other emails I see of order date to ship date, I > am looking at getting a CW key for the FT817 I will be using in the > interim. > > I am thinking about possibly getting two different keys - a straight > key, possibly a Nye-Viking type and maybe something similar to the > Iambic keyer paddle as my cw skills improve. While I probably wont do > CW all of the time, it doesnt hurt to be more fluent in that mode than I > currently am. > > Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has. > > Thanks, > Ron > KA4KYI > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?
Ron, I use a Bencher BY-1 that I bought used on eBay. I don't do too much CW, so it was a great purchase for me. It's inexpensive, solidly built, and the foundation level key from one of the top names in CW paddles, if you don't want to pay for a Vibroplex. Hope this helps. 73, --Ian Ian Kahn, KM4IK Roswell, GA EM74ua km4ik@gmail.com K3 #281, P3 #688 HRD v5.x/6.0 Test Team On 6/24/2012 8:23 PM, Ronald Nutter wrote: > Thanks to all that have responded to my previous questions. > > The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key. I am thinking about > getting the "plug-in" key that is an option for KX3. Since the KX3 that > I have ordered probably wont be in my hands until sometime around > Christmas based on the other emails I see of order date to ship date, I > am looking at getting a CW key for the FT817 I will be using in the > interim. > > I am thinking about possibly getting two different keys - a straight > key, possibly a Nye-Viking type and maybe something similar to the > Iambic keyer paddle as my cw skills improve. While I probably wont do > CW all of the time, it doesnt hurt to be more fluent in that mode than I > currently am. > > Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has. > > Thanks, > Ron > KA4KYI > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KX3 Field Day observations
Field Day this weekend was the first real test of my new KX3 (s/n 268). Before Saturday it had only seen light picnic table use and one SOTA peak activation. How did I like it during FD? This is one sweet little radio! I operated somewhat casually in a search and pounce mode, with 90% of the QSOs on CW and the rest on SSB. The bands were crowded and busy. I used the internal ATU to match to a 40M EDZ (180' of wire center fed with ladder line). The combination played well. I particularly enjoyed cutting the bandwidth back to 500 Hz or less (the radio has the roofing filter option) and tuning from one station to the next which were generally in the clear as width was lowered below 500 Hz. The CWT made spotting easy and the radio almost acted channelized as I moved from one CQing station to the next. My 5 Watt signal generally got through on a call or two to these "isolated" stations. The noise was cut way back and even 40M at night was pleasant to the ear. The obvious tuning noise was not a problem as I generally was not tuning quickly along the band. I would like to see that noise reduced in a future s/w release, however. The message memories made contest style operation easy, leaving the bencher paddling to short work. This was nice since my usually poor fist was not helped by the cool, wet conditions we had. The current requirements are very low at 5W with the rig in low power options. The 75 Ah lead acid battery loafed along for the whole time. The rig Vin never dropped below 12V. That is good since the mostly overcast and rainy conditions didn't generate much from the solar panel. All in all, this is a great portable rig, even for contest conditions. Thank you to Elecraft! 73, Phil, NS7P __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Tuning Jump Cause
> The "jump" happens at several particular frequencies on all > bands. For example, 7055, 7130; 14055, 14130. Manipulating > connections inside the case from the port to the board has no > effect. Jaring the rig has no effect. The "jump" seems to > only happen while tuning down the band. Pushing and pulling > the tuning knob sometimes causes a "jump". I'm leaning > toward replacing the Bourne pot, maybe the wiper has > developed a problem. If the pot has the problem at specific positions of the wiper then the frequencies shown on each band for the troublesome position should vary for each band by the amount that each band varies as shown at the full CCW position. For example, My K1 displays 98.1 on 40m and 92.1 on 20m. If my pot shows a problem at 7040, I should see that also at 14034. This variance occurs from the heterodyne crystals not being exactly on their nominal frequency. But I tend to agree that it looks like the pot is suspect based on all you report. Early pot failures have been reported especially after an impact that pushes the knob into the panel. Sometimes even the back of the pot has separated. > Is there potential for any rebate from Bourne? It's good that you've retained your sense of humor! 73, Mike / KK5F __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off - SOLVED
I agree about the inexpensive crimping tools...possibly not about prohibitively expensive. A small array of adequate crimping tools can cost several hundred dollars which I don't think is too much when you consider the money spent on just one high end transceiver. I think those flat plate crimpers you see in the automotive department at the hardware store ought to be outlawed from the hamshack. Sent from my iPad On Jun 24, 2012, at 7:19 PM, "Don Wilhelm" wrote: > Crimps are good if they are properly done with proper sized terminals > and proper crimping tools for that type and size of terminal - there is > no "one size fits all" crimping tool, and I believe there lies the > problem with amateurs using crimped terminals - buying the proper > crimping tool for each and every crimp terminal would be prohibitively > expensive. > > Yes, there are consumer grade "universal"crimping tools and terminals, > but they grip the wire over only a short distance - professional crimps > will make solid contact with the wire over a larger area, and will be a > gas-tight connection where corrosion cannot get in. > > I believe soldering is a better alternative for amateur work. Soldering > does have one disadvantage and that is solder will be wicked up the > stranded wire for a small distance, AND if the wire is subject to > vibration at that point, the wire will eventually break right where the > wicked solder ends (under the insulation where that break cannot be > immediately noticed). So in high vibration environments such as > avionics, soldering is a definite "no-no", but at the home station > installation where the wires are seldom moved, soldering should be just > as good or better than properly crimped terminals. In your mobile > installations, you might want to consider either crimping or supporting > the wire for about 3 inches away from the soldered terminal. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 6/24/2012 7:55 PM, Hisashi T Fujinaka wrote: >> What does the maritime industry use? Anyone work at Boeing who can tell >> me why they (I think) crimp instead of solder? I thought I remembered >> that it's because crimps are stronger over the long-term under >> vibration. I could be making it all up. >> >> I'm just curious if there's a reason or if people are just talking for >> the sake of talking. I've had lots more solder joints fail than crimps, >> but I've had crimps fail too. >> >> > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?
Thanks to all that have responded to my previous questions. The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key. I am thinking about getting the "plug-in" key that is an option for KX3. Since the KX3 that I have ordered probably wont be in my hands until sometime around Christmas based on the other emails I see of order date to ship date, I am looking at getting a CW key for the FT817 I will be using in the interim. I am thinking about possibly getting two different keys - a straight key, possibly a Nye-Viking type and maybe something similar to the Iambic keyer paddle as my cw skills improve. While I probably wont do CW all of the time, it doesnt hurt to be more fluent in that mode than I currently am. Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has. Thanks, Ron KA4KYI __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off - SOLVED
Crimps are good if they are properly done with proper sized terminals and proper crimping tools for that type and size of terminal - there is no "one size fits all" crimping tool, and I believe there lies the problem with amateurs using crimped terminals - buying the proper crimping tool for each and every crimp terminal would be prohibitively expensive. Yes, there are consumer grade "universal"crimping tools and terminals, but they grip the wire over only a short distance - professional crimps will make solid contact with the wire over a larger area, and will be a gas-tight connection where corrosion cannot get in. I believe soldering is a better alternative for amateur work. Soldering does have one disadvantage and that is solder will be wicked up the stranded wire for a small distance, AND if the wire is subject to vibration at that point, the wire will eventually break right where the wicked solder ends (under the insulation where that break cannot be immediately noticed). So in high vibration environments such as avionics, soldering is a definite "no-no", but at the home station installation where the wires are seldom moved, soldering should be just as good or better than properly crimped terminals. In your mobile installations, you might want to consider either crimping or supporting the wire for about 3 inches away from the soldered terminal. 73, Don W3FPR On 6/24/2012 7:55 PM, Hisashi T Fujinaka wrote: > What does the maritime industry use? Anyone work at Boeing who can tell > me why they (I think) crimp instead of solder? I thought I remembered > that it's because crimps are stronger over the long-term under > vibration. I could be making it all up. > > I'm just curious if there's a reason or if people are just talking for > the sake of talking. I've had lots more solder joints fail than crimps, > but I've had crimps fail too. > > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off - SOLVED
You've hit on why the auto industry uses crimp also (probably because of cost as much as anything too). When a wire is soldered, a bit of the solder tins up the wire strands and vibration or flexing can quickly cause the wire to break and negate the reason we use stranded wire in the first place. Sent from my iPad On Jun 24, 2012, at 6:55 PM, "Hisashi T Fujinaka" wrote: > What does the maritime industry use? Anyone work at Boeing who can tell > me why they (I think) crimp instead of solder? I thought I remembered > that it's because crimps are stronger over the long-term under > vibration. I could be making it all up. > > I'm just curious if there's a reason or if people are just talking for > the sake of talking. I've had lots more solder joints fail than crimps, > but I've had crimps fail too. > > On Sun, 24 Jun 2012, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: > >> Does anyone have actual measurements to indicate that one is *significantly* >> better than the other? >> >> Solder may not be as good a conductor as copper, but we're talking about a >> fraction of a millimeter of solder covering the entire mating surface of the >> cable and connector through which the current flows. >> >> IMX working on electronic systems we chose crimping over solder because >> crimping is faster than soldering. Even so, I have found that it is as easy >> to do a bad crimp job as it is to do a bad soldering job. >> >> 73, Ron AC7AC >> >> -Original Message- >> >> A properly done crimp is better electrically than solder. For one thing, >> solder is not a very good conductor. A proper crimp is actually a weld >> joining the wire to the terminal. >> >> Sent from my iPad >> >> >> __ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >> > > -- > Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com > BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off - SOLVED
What does the maritime industry use? Anyone work at Boeing who can tell me why they (I think) crimp instead of solder? I thought I remembered that it's because crimps are stronger over the long-term under vibration. I could be making it all up. I'm just curious if there's a reason or if people are just talking for the sake of talking. I've had lots more solder joints fail than crimps, but I've had crimps fail too. On Sun, 24 Jun 2012, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: > Does anyone have actual measurements to indicate that one is *significantly* > better than the other? > > Solder may not be as good a conductor as copper, but we're talking about a > fraction of a millimeter of solder covering the entire mating surface of the > cable and connector through which the current flows. > > IMX working on electronic systems we chose crimping over solder because > crimping is faster than soldering. Even so, I have found that it is as easy > to do a bad crimp job as it is to do a bad soldering job. > > 73, Ron AC7AC > > -Original Message- > > A properly done crimp is better electrically than solder. For one thing, > solder is not a very good conductor. A proper crimp is actually a weld > joining the wire to the terminal. > > Sent from my iPad > > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K-1 VFO range jump
> My K-1 quit (no TX, no RX)... > > Originally set up for 7.000-@7.060; 14.000-@14.060. That's a little unusual...with the standard narrow VFO span option for RF-C2 of 82 pf the K1 will typically tune from about xx.000 to xx.085 or so. > I removed and replaced the filter board. RX, TX fine > except the range is now 14.047.3 - 14.075.1 and > 7.053.6 - 7.081.3. Was *anything* shown on the LCD back when the K1 was not working at all? > Spread the turns of L1 and could get to go as low as > 7.0361 and as high as 7.0640. > > I'm reluctant to snip off a turn from L1 since it worked > fine before with the current number of turns. Absolutely do NOT do anything to L1. You did not need to adjust turn spacing...but you will after you fix the problem to get it back to where it should be. Find the two terminals of the VFO pot that have FP-R19 100k soldered to them. Rotate the VFO pot to full CCW position. Measure the voltage from each of these terminals to ground (the screw anchor blocks for the cover work well). You *should* find 5.9 to 6.0 volts at each point. Next, turn on RIT and report how much the LCD frequency changes from full CCW to full CW. This should be about 8 kHz (+/- 4 kHz around center frequency). I suspect that there may be a problem with the 6V VFO regulator RF-U6 (ZR78L06C) and what you observe above can help determine that. The actual output frequency of your VFO should be about 3090 kHz (VFO pot full CCW) to 3005 kHz (VFO pot full CW). 73, Mike / KK5F __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Info - K3 - MKII - HRD
I use a k3 and hrd but nothing else as the k3 connnects to the computer sound out and Mic in. What is the question and let's shate with the group so we all can learn. KD8NNU Don Sent from my HTC on the Now Network from Sprint! - Reply message - From: "Ricardo - PY2PT" Date: Sun, Jun 24, 2012 6:41 pm Subject: [Elecraft] Info - K3 - MKII - HRD To: Dear guys, Please, if possible, I would like to talk in private with the guys who use the configuration: K3, MKII (micro ham) and Ham Radio Deluxe. Thanks a lot 73 -- Ricardo Rodrigues - PY2PT py2pt.bra...@gmail.com http://www.py2pt.com @ricrodrigues TO2FH (Mayotte Island - 2011) team member 8R1PY team member (2012) T30PY/T30SIX team member (2012) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Field Day 2012 with K2-7006
We were a couple of K2s in South Carolina as a 2B QRP station with a tribander hex beam at 20 ft and an end fed half wave sloped hung from a tree branch at 70 ft. Sunspots were low at a sunspot number of only 13. 40m became long for a time as we made contact with KH7AA in Hawaii. Alaska was also in the log. We were under the call sign NY4G. We had a solar panel putting out close to 3 amps during the day. The computers used for logging as well as the wireless router were run from a small pure sine wave inverter. I was greeted by a 4 foot snake next to my tent around breakfast time on Sunday. I do not know who was more startled - the snake or me. We were out in the back woods of someone's property. We operated mostly CW - with 260 contacts and made 14 phone contacts on the beam as far as Quebec and California. My backup rig was a KX1 which I did not have to use. The hex beam was great along with the PAR EFHW dipole. Ariel NY4G and KQ4VY Matt Sent from my iPad Sent from my iPad On Jun 24, 2012, at 5:23 PM, "John Strandberg" wrote: > Your K2 sounded great on two of our stations when I was listening. > > 73 John W4DX > > On Sun, Jun 24, 2012 at 4:32 PM, aj4tf wrote: > >> If you have W4UA in your field day log on either 15m or 75/80m, then you >> heard K2/100 #7006 on the air. It stayed powered for about 23 hours >> straight. Unfortunately *I* could not stay powered up for 23 hours >> straight, so I had to relinquish command to another operator last night. >> >> 15m was really open to California and Texas from our location (NC), we made >> many contacts there. >> >> 73, >> >> de AJ4TF >> >> >> -- >> View this message in context: >> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Field-Day-2012-with-K2-7006-tp7558060.html >> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. >> __ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >> > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off - SOLVED
Does anyone have actual measurements to indicate that one is *significantly* better than the other? Solder may not be as good a conductor as copper, but we're talking about a fraction of a millimeter of solder covering the entire mating surface of the cable and connector through which the current flows. IMX working on electronic systems we chose crimping over solder because crimping is faster than soldering. Even so, I have found that it is as easy to do a bad crimp job as it is to do a bad soldering job. 73, Ron AC7AC -Original Message- A properly done crimp is better electrically than solder. For one thing, solder is not a very good conductor. A proper crimp is actually a weld joining the wire to the terminal. Sent from my iPad __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K-1 VFO range jump
Tim, You certainly are correct in not jumping to conclusions about the need to just change the winding of L1 - that will not alter the tuning range, but will simply shift the frequency at the beginning of the range. First check is the voltage on the VFOPOT signal line which can be observed at the RF Board connector P1 (to the front panel) pin 14. Move the VFO knob from one end to another - the voltage should change gradually from 0 volts at one end to near 8 volts at the other end. If it does not, there is something wrong with the VFO pot or the connections to it. If you do get the expected voltage range, check for the same voltage range at the cathode of D3 (or pin 2 of RP2 (both should be the same because they are connected). If all is well so far, then suspect that the problem has to do with soldering. Reflow the soldering at C2, D3, RP2 and possibly other points with a hot iron (750 degF). 73, Don W3FPR On 6/24/2012 5:32 PM, k...@juno.com wrote: > My K-1 quit (no TX, no RX) a few months ago and am just now getting > around to working on it. > > It is a 2-band kit with 20 and 40 installed. > > Originally set up for 7.000-@7.060; 14.000-@14.060. > > I removed and replaced the filter board. RX, TX fine except the > range is now 14.047.3 - 14.075.1 and 7.053.6 - 7.081.3. > > Spread the turns of L1 and could get to go as low as 7.0361 and as high as > 7.0640. > > These frequencies agree with a good receiver and a good signal source. > > I'm reluctant to snip off a turn from L1 since it worked fine before > with the current number of turns. > > A concern is the lack of tuning range. > > VFO OSC is 3.027 - 3.055. > > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] RE; K2 -for sale
I have for sale a very nice K2 - 100 with SSB, NB, high stability oscillator, and 600Hz center upgrade. It comes with the hand mic Microphone power cord, and all the manuals. And last but not least I have the 10 watt top with the 10 watt power cable. SERIAL NUMBER is 2633. Firmware is up to date no known issues. $$650.00 Shipped -- via FED-EX, insured __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Info - K3 - MKII - HRD
Dear guys, Please, if possible, I would like to talk in private with the guys who use the configuration: K3, MKII (micro ham) and Ham Radio Deluxe. Thanks a lot 73 -- Ricardo Rodrigues - PY2PT py2pt.bra...@gmail.com http://www.py2pt.com @ricrodrigues TO2FH (Mayotte Island - 2011) team member 8R1PY team member (2012) T30PY/T30SIX team member (2012) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Happy But Very Sad
One of the members of the Zuni Loop QRP Field Day has brought his K3 for the past two years that I recall. Count was three K2s, one K3, one KX3, an Argonaut V and my K2 that I brought as backup. In the past I would have worried about bringing a personal transceiver worth that much to any location outside of the house, but now I'm thinking otherwise, inasmuch as many DXpeditions feature K3s. Power for this QRP K3 was a 100-Ah battery that took two guys to carry to the 20m tent. 72/73 de Jim - AD6CW On 6/22/2012 10:48 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote: > Another nice thing about the K3 is that you can take it to Field Day. > (10 pounds vs. 50 pounds, and 1 amp receive current drain vs. 3 or 4 > amps :) > > 73, > Wayne > N6KR > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] T1 Diode D3
I grabbed my T1 today, planning to throw a wire up into the tree and make a few Field Day contacts. it was dead, and no it wasn't the battery. I opened it up and found no 6 volt output from the U2 regulator when I pushed the TUNE button. Tracing back I found that I would have 9.3 volts on the anode of D3 (1N5817) and about 8.7 on the cathode, but when TUNE was pushed, D3's cathode went to 0.5 (referenced to ground) so nothing through Q1 and so nothing on the input of U2 regulator, and so no 6v. Just to verify this I grabbed some clip jumpers and put a 1N4007 diode in parallel with D3 and I got my 6 volts back. So a couple of questions here. Last fall when I checked, the T1 was working fine What the heck killed D3? And... I don't have any 1N5817's in the part box, but I do have the general purpose 1N4007's. The 5817 is a Schottky diode and I assume it was chosen for a specific reason (low voltage drop?) but can I substitute one of my diodes here or is it time to place a parts order? tnx de George WD0AKZ -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/T1-Diode-D3-tp7558064.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K-1 VFO range jump
My K-1 quit (no TX, no RX) a few months ago and am just now getting around to working on it. It is a 2-band kit with 20 and 40 installed. Originally set up for 7.000-@7.060; 14.000-@14.060. I removed and replaced the filter board. RX, TX fine except the range is now 14.047.3 - 14.075.1 and 7.053.6 - 7.081.3. Spread the turns of L1 and could get to go as low as 7.0361 and as high as 7.0640. These frequencies agree with a good receiver and a good signal source. I'm reluctant to snip off a turn from L1 since it worked fine before with the current number of turns. A concern is the lack of tuning range. VFO OSC is 3.027 - 3.055. I'd be grateful for advice. 72, Tim Colbert K3HX 5 Diet Pills that Work 2012's Top 5 Weight Loss Pills. Updated Consumer Ratings. Free Report. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/4fe7881a437cfd75d18st01duc __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Field Day 2012 with K2-7006
Your K2 sounded great on two of our stations when I was listening. 73 John W4DX On Sun, Jun 24, 2012 at 4:32 PM, aj4tf wrote: > If you have W4UA in your field day log on either 15m or 75/80m, then you > heard K2/100 #7006 on the air. It stayed powered for about 23 hours > straight. Unfortunately *I* could not stay powered up for 23 hours > straight, so I had to relinquish command to another operator last night. > > 15m was really open to California and Texas from our location (NC), we made > many contacts there. > > 73, > > de AJ4TF > > > -- > View this message in context: > http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Field-Day-2012-with-K2-7006-tp7558060.html > Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Help - K2 Higher Noise Level with X1 Selected
Hi Don, As usual, thanks for your assistance. Pulling seven crystals with no super confidence that that's the problem seems hard work. How often does a crystal die? I've not had that fault before in any of my equipment. I have an XG3 sig gen (known level) and access to a CRO. Is there any level testing comparison I can do to get a sense of where the problem is? Is there a matrix describing switching paths with their inputs and outputs? If not, could you describe the area of the circuit I need to look at and understand. Seems like I need some way of stepping through the combinations and confirming they work / finding what doesn't. Cheers Mike On 25-Jun-12 6:20 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > Mike, > > I can see that, but unfortunately, it does not help with the isolation > of the problem. > Ome easy thing you could do is assume a bad crystal in the set on the > base K2 board and try replacing the 7 crystals. If I were to make a > first guess, that would be what I would do. > > OTOH, there may be a problem with the switching path through the KSB2 > diodes that change the path for the two filters. Since you have > already checked the diodes for orientation, that is not as likely as a > faulty crystal. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 6/23/2012 3:09 AM, VK1OO wrote: >> Hi Don, >> >> I've attached a ppt showing FL1-FL4 (Slide 1-Slide 4) responses to >> broadband noise. I could send separate jpg if necessary. >> >> You can see the reduction in signal (audio) between FL1, and FL2-4. >> FL1 sounds louder and has the extra three S Meter bars. >> >> Mike >> >> >> >> On 17-Jun-12 10:19 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: >>> Mike, >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> OK, back up a step and look at the amplitude of the passband when >>> using Spectrogram. >>> The OP1 filter and the other filters should have close to the same >>> amplitude when the K2 is fed with a broadband noise generator. >>> >>> Please verify for that condition. >>> >>> 73, >>> Don W3FPR >>> >>> On 6/17/2012 7:04 AM, VK1OO wrote: Don, Still no joy with this problem. I've resoldered most of the joints on the KSB2, checked the torroids etc and have gone back and checked the filters with a noise generator and spectrogram. What feature of the circuit would account for the increase in S meter bars? Mike VK1OO On 10-Jun-12 10:12 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > Mike, > > Two different filters - the FL1 OP1 filter is the one on the KSB2 > board while the others are created from the variable bandwidth filter > on the RF board. Since all but OP1 work correctly, it has to be the > OP1 filter on the KSB2 board. > > Oh, one more piece of info - when you remove the KSB2 board, the OP1 > filter goes away, and the filtering defaults to a 2.20 bandwidth > filter from the filter on the RF Board. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 6/9/2012 7:54 PM, VK1OO wrote: >> Hi Don, >> >> Wow, thanks for fast response noting it must be late there. >> >> I will do. What conclusion can be drawn from X1 being affected, and >> not X2-4? >> >> Mike >> VK1OO >> >> On 10-Jun-12 9:43 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote: >>> Mike, >>> >>> It is on the KSB2 board somewhere. Check everything on the end of >>> that board containing the filter crystals. Check T1 and T2 to be >>> certain all the leads are well stripped, tinned and soldered >>> and be >>> sure there are no shorted turns on those toroids. I recently >>> repaired a K2 that had the shorted turn problem because the builder >>> use a flame to burn off the insulation from the toroid wires and >>> got >>> too much flame on the red T2 wires when he tried to strip the green >>> leads. >>> >>> 73, >>> Don W3FPR >>> >>> On 6/9/2012 7:29 PM, VK1OO wrote: Hi Don, We have a long weekend here, so I've been able to get back to this. I reflowed RF board and KSB2 board, with no improvement. I then took out the KSB2, inserting the previously removed links and the capacitor (effectively returning radio to pre-KSB2 state). The noise problem on X1 goes away. Your thoughts on what to look at next would be appreciated. Mike VK1OO On 03-Jun-12 6:59 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > Mike, > > If you do not find the solution re-flowing the solder on the RF > board filter area, the problem source may be on the KSB2 board in > the switching diodes and/or resistors at the filter end of that > board, so for completeness, reflow those connections as well. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 6/2/2012 4:24 PM, VK1OO wrote: >> Don, >> >> The effect happens when the antenna is disconnected as well >> as wh
[Elecraft] Field Day 2012 with K2-7006
If you have W4UA in your field day log on either 15m or 75/80m, then you heard K2/100 #7006 on the air. It stayed powered for about 23 hours straight. Unfortunately *I* could not stay powered up for 23 hours straight, so I had to relinquish command to another operator last night. 15m was really open to California and Texas from our location (NC), we made many contacts there. 73, de AJ4TF -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Field-Day-2012-with-K2-7006-tp7558060.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KAT 500 order
I sent a check three days after they went on sale. 5/19/12 got an email that all arrived & confirmed. They are fast. If you're not sure callum' . They're friendly...k9il __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KX3 - computer I/Fing
Lance, As soon as I get the KX3 completed (today), I will be looking into building an I/F for the radio (specifically for JT65 and other SDR sw). I will be setting up a KX3 webpage which will show construction photos, to start with, and performance measurements. But will add info for computer I/F and other accessories (like a 2m transverter and RF amplifiers). 73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45 == BP40IQ 500 KHz - 10-GHz www.kl7uw.com EME: 50-1.1kw?, 144-1.4kw, 432-QRT, 1296-?, 3400-? DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@gmail.com "Kits made by KL7UW" http://www.kl7uw.com/kits.htm == __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off - SOLVED
A properly done crimp is better electrically than solder. For one thing, solder is not a very good conductor. A proper crimp is actually a weld joining the wire to the terminal. Sent from my iPad On Jun 24, 2012, at 1:13 PM, "Rick Bates" wrote: > I am not a fan of Powerpole connectors, but use them for compatibility to > other ham gear. I think they're better than Molex (as an example) but they > are not mechanically secure enough (no locking tab) without adding an > external piece (I tape the crap out of the attached connectors). > > > > For high current items (greater than a few amps), I crimp with the proper > tool AND solder (pre-tinning the wire). One is a mechanical connection, the > other is electrical; either should work; together is insurance. > > > > No I don't wear a belt and suspenders (are they still available?); but try > to beat Murphy at his own game every chance I get. If I EVER get my hands > on him... :o) > > > > 73, > > Rick wa6nhc > > > > -Original Message- > From: W0MU Mike Fatchett > > > > Many problems similar to this are caused by a bad crimp job on the > > Anderson connectors. I would encourage everyone to get the more > > expensive crimp tools with the right dies for the various amperage > > connectors used. > > > > Soldering is fine too but not needed if the cable is crimped properly. > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off - SOLVED
Absolutely. I bought a power cable from West Mountain and one of the leads (the red one) just fell out of the crimp connector. So much for trusting the "professional". I do all of my crimps now and do not solder any. I use the best crimp tool. Sent from my iPad On Jun 24, 2012, at 11:34 AM, "W0MU Mike Fatchett" wrote: > Glad you found it Lee! > > Many problems similar to this are caused by a bad crimp job on the > Anderson connectors. I would encourage everyone to get the more > expensive crimp tools with the right dies for the various amperage > connectors used. > > Soldering is fine too but not needed if the cable is crimped properly. > > Mike W0MU > > W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net:23 or w0mu-1.dnsdynamic.com > Http://www.w0mu.com > > On 6/24/2012 9:40 AM, Lee Buller wrote: >> Recently, I built a new power cable...a shorter cable with automotive spade >> fuses. The Radio Shack Spade Fuse Holders are defective. Would not seat the >> fuse properly. Thus, the connection malfunctioned. I will be replacing >> those >> soon. >> >> Lee - K0WA >> >> >> >> >> >> >> From: Lee Buller >> To: Elecraft Reflector >> Sent: Sat, June 23, 2012 9:21:47 PM >> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off >> >> >> This has not happened to me before >> >> Running some FD here on CW for about an hour in an AC room >> >> PA 35C FP 31C >> >> The rig just went off. Dead. Power supply is ON. Pressed the power >> buttoncomes back on. >> >> Anyone see this beforeI have not. >> >> Lee >> >> >> In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you >> don't >> have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it. If you can't find >> any >> >> Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense. Is >> Common >> Sense divine? >> >> Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my >> mind. >> - John W. (Kansas) >> >> Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you. >> __ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >> __ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off - SOLVED
I am not a fan of Powerpole connectors, but use them for compatibility to other ham gear. I think they're better than Molex (as an example) but they are not mechanically secure enough (no locking tab) without adding an external piece (I tape the crap out of the attached connectors). For high current items (greater than a few amps), I crimp with the proper tool AND solder (pre-tinning the wire). One is a mechanical connection, the other is electrical; either should work; together is insurance. No I don't wear a belt and suspenders (are they still available?); but try to beat Murphy at his own game every chance I get. If I EVER get my hands on him... :o) 73, Rick wa6nhc -Original Message- From: W0MU Mike Fatchett Many problems similar to this are caused by a bad crimp job on the Anderson connectors. I would encourage everyone to get the more expensive crimp tools with the right dies for the various amperage connectors used. Soldering is fine too but not needed if the cable is crimped properly. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off - SOLVED
I do agree with Mike but to be safe I always solder. Murphy lives in my shack! 73, Tim Herrick, KQ8M Charter Member North Coast Contesters k...@kq8m.com K3 Serial #5934 AR-Cluster V6 kq8m.no-ip.org User Ports: 23, 7373 with local skimmer, 7374 without local skimmer Server Ports: V6 3607, V4 Active 3605, V4 Passive 3606 -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of W0MU Mike Fatchett Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2012 12:35 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off - SOLVED Glad you found it Lee! Many problems similar to this are caused by a bad crimp job on the Anderson connectors. I would encourage everyone to get the more expensive crimp tools with the right dies for the various amperage connectors used. Soldering is fine too but not needed if the cable is crimped properly. Mike W0MU W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net:23 or w0mu-1.dnsdynamic.com Http://www.w0mu.com On 6/24/2012 9:40 AM, Lee Buller wrote: > Recently, I built a new power cable...a shorter cable with automotive spade > fuses. The Radio Shack Spade Fuse Holders are defective. Would not seat the > fuse properly. Thus, the connection malfunctioned. I will be replacing those > soon. > > Lee - K0WA > > > > > > > From: Lee Buller > To: Elecraft Reflector > Sent: Sat, June 23, 2012 9:21:47 PM > Subject: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off > > > This has not happened to me before > > Running some FD here on CW for about an hour in an AC room > > PA 35C FP 31C > > The rig just went off. Dead. Power supply is ON. Pressed the power > buttoncomes back on. > > Anyone see this beforeI have not. > > Lee > > > In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you > don't > have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it. If you can't find > any > > Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense. Is Common > Sense divine? > > Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind. > - John W. (Kansas) > > Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you. > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off - SOLVED
Glad you found it Lee! Many problems similar to this are caused by a bad crimp job on the Anderson connectors. I would encourage everyone to get the more expensive crimp tools with the right dies for the various amperage connectors used. Soldering is fine too but not needed if the cable is crimped properly. Mike W0MU W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net:23 or w0mu-1.dnsdynamic.com Http://www.w0mu.com On 6/24/2012 9:40 AM, Lee Buller wrote: > Recently, I built a new power cable...a shorter cable with automotive spade > fuses. The Radio Shack Spade Fuse Holders are defective. Would not seat the > fuse properly. Thus, the connection malfunctioned. I will be replacing those > soon. > > Lee - K0WA > > > > > > > From: Lee Buller > To: Elecraft Reflector > Sent: Sat, June 23, 2012 9:21:47 PM > Subject: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off > > > This has not happened to me before > > Running some FD here on CW for about an hour in an AC room > > PA 35C FP 31C > > The rig just went off. Dead. Power supply is ON. Pressed the power > buttoncomes back on. > > Anyone see this beforeI have not. > > Lee > > > In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you > don't > have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it. If you can't find > any > > Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense. Is Common > Sense divine? > > Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind. > - John W. (Kansas) > > Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you. > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KX3 Serial 328 On Air For Field Day - The True Value of Elecraft
Just a quick note about the KX3 - I love it! I won't spend your time writing a review here, others far more skilled than myself have already done a stellar job doing so. Rather I'd like to share the true value of Elecraft to me. Even more than the rig, I love Elecraft's customer service, allow me to explain. My kit arrived about two weeks ago, midweek, put up the gratification of the build until that weekend. All went together well, but the "SPOT" button required extra effort to make work, and when it did work its operation was spotty. Also the unit would go into the TX mode on it's own, on a random basis. I'm one of the Elecraft builders, so I did normal static precautions on the build, so no fault there. Quick note to the good folks at Elecraft last week, explaining I'd like to use the rig on Field Day, not less than two Elecraft support folks got involved and sent me a replacement control board, RF board, and filter board (they need to be changed at the same time as they are matched - so I was explained to me). Replacement boards arrived mid last week, I assembled it the next evening, all working 100%. They were kind enough to supply return shipping labels, and though I asked them to ding my credit card for their security shipping the items, not sure they did. As much as I love the product, I even more appreciate the customer service. If you've ever tried to get something warrantied through the "Big 3" amateur manufacturers, you'll know what I mean. Over the years I think I've purchased and built just about everything Elecraft offers, and built many, many radios for others, nary a hitch when a problem comes up. The folks at Elecraft could not be nicer or easier to work with. The staff is concerned, engaged, creative, and I put the company on par with the operations end of Apple Computer. Yes, there are some delays shipping products from time to time, I'm on the list for the new KAT-500 tuner, but I'd much rather see things ship when they are ready, then ship a less than perfect product. Here's another thought, Elecraft is one of the few electronics firms which does not readily obsolete products, almost everything they have offered has some sort of upgrade path to the latest and greatest version. Example, buy an early K1, they offer enhancements, component improvements, backlight upgrades, replacement sheet metal, you name it, top notch customer service. I see my choice of Elecraft gear as not just a providing joy for myself and other ops, but as an investment in the future of amateur radio innovation! Cordially, Bruce J. Howes W1UJR www.W1UJR.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off - SOLVED
Recently, I built a new power cable...a shorter cable with automotive spade fuses. The Radio Shack Spade Fuse Holders are defective. Would not seat the fuse properly. Thus, the connection malfunctioned. I will be replacing those soon. Lee - K0WA From: Lee Buller To: Elecraft Reflector Sent: Sat, June 23, 2012 9:21:47 PM Subject: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off This has not happened to me before Running some FD here on CW for about an hour in an AC room PA 35C FP 31C The rig just went off. Dead. Power supply is ON. Pressed the power buttoncomes back on. Anyone see this beforeI have not. Lee In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you don't have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it. If you can't find any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense. Is Common Sense divine? Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind. - John W. (Kansas) Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] FS: K2/100 plus KAT100-1
Hi folks, The K2/100 has been sold. This list is great. 73, Frank PA7F __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off
I have had similar problems which ended up being poor connections from the power supply, where crimped connections, like on the power poles are not making good contact. Now I solder all DC connections from power supply, if possible. Also, these poor connections lower the power/amps making it to the rig, causing strange problems. Good luck 73 Emory WM3M -Original Message- From: Lee Buller Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2012 10:16 PM To: Elecraft Reflector Subject: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off This has not happened to me before Running some FD here on CW for about an hour in an AC room PA 35C FP 31C The rig just went off. Dead. Power supply is ON. Pressed the power buttoncomes back on. Anyone see this beforeI have not. Lee In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you don't have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it. If you can't find any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense. Is Common Sense divine? Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind. - John W. (Kansas) Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off
Hook a DMM up to the power pole connectors on the rig and do the load/no-load test to double chack the K3 numbers. Check the load/no- load voltage at the power supply as well. On 6/24/2012 12:06 AM, Lee Buller wrote: > Well, the PS is a switcher...Astron ss-30. > > The voltage on the rig shows about 12.8 on Xmit with about 18.75 amps Nothing > is hot. Wires. Connectors. Rig. PS. I am a little perturbed at the > voltage > drop on the ps. I would thing it would not drop that far, but I am not sure > how > accurate the meter in the K3 really is. > > Has not done it again. Never has it done it before either. > > Lee > -- R. Kevin Stover AC0H ARRL FISTS #11993 SKCC #215 NAQCC #3441 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 number 493 received
The archive contains a answer to your computer interface question: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX3-and-Data-Mode-Interface-td7382234.html TL;TD: try it with a direct cable. If you have hum, use isolation transformers. If you need anything more fancy (e.g. PTT), you need more, but maybe you can control PTT via serial commands or turn VOX on in the KX3. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Meaning of EQ bands?
Joe Subich, W4TV wrote: > >> The existing K3 manual seems quite misleading in talking about 8 >> "bands" of audio equalization. We now learn that the EQ facility >> allows the user to set the relative levels at 8 discrete frequency >> POINTS, and that the rest of the frequency response is interpolated >> by "joining up the dots". >> >> That gives quite a different shape to the frequency response than >> many will have imagined. > >How so? That's the way "graphic" equalizers - whether they are octave >or fractional octave - have operated for years. > Please re-read what Lyle wrote. The underlying DSP does not use stepped frequency "bands" at all - not even as a concept. Whenever we use words to describe DSP, we are always at least one step away from reality. So let's not make that any worse than it has to be. A more accurate image of what's really happening is that the equalizers re-draw the frequency response curve by specifying its values at 50, 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 2400 and 3200 Hz. "Drawing a curve" gives a much more accurate picture of what is really happening, especially at frequencies in between those points. Fortunately, the K3 doesn't care about any of this. For the first time in almost 50 years I'm receiving unsolicited compliments about my audio - so whatever is happening in there, it works. -- 73 from Ian GM3SEK http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KX3: S/N 0475
My KX3 Kit arrived today and I have the parts inventoried (1-hour). My order # 2208-4482-7710 was placed Dec. 27 10:46pm. Will get started with construction tomorrow evening. Hope many of you are enjoying FD! 73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45 == BP40IQ 500 KHz - 10-GHz www.kl7uw.com EME: 50-1.1kw?, 144-1.4kw, 432-QRT, 1296-?, 3400-? DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@gmail.com "Kits made by KL7UW" http://www.kl7uw.com/kits.htm == __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
