Re: [Elecraft] What hardware mods would be best?

2014-07-04 Thread PD2R
Hi Guy,

Thank you for your reply. I understand what you are saying. The thought of
selling the K3 has crossed my mind several times. However, having played
with almost all the rigs of the competitors (TS 990, FTdx 9000, FTdx 5000,
IC 7700/7800), I'm always glad to return to my K3. I certainly have no
intention to sell my K3 nor can I afford to replace my K3 with a comparable
transceiver (assuming there is a TRX that comes close to the K3).
Furthermore, doing all the mods for the K3 will cost me over $200,- +
shipping + tax. And then they need to be installed as well which
unfortunately I myself am not comfortable doing.

So it may be the kindest thing to do, it's not the economical thing to do.
With no intention of selling my K3 I would rather be kind to my bank account 


  



-


Maarten, PD2R
Member of the PI4DX contest group
www.pi4dx.com

Elecraft K3 nr:1849
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Re: [Elecraft] Bluetooth Connection to K2

2014-07-04 Thread Sverre Holm (LA3ZA)
There's a couple of ways to use Bluetooth with the K2 on my list of mods
(internal/external), and there are more on the mailing list. Some of them
are some years old, so maybe some better ways are possible today?

See 
http://la3za.blogspot.no/p/la3za-unofficial-guide-to-elecraft-k2_28.html#IO
http://la3za.blogspot.no/p/la3za-unofficial-guide-to-elecraft-k2_28.html#IO  



-
Sverre, LA3ZA

K2 #2198, K3 #3391,
LA3ZA Blog: http://la3za.blogspot.com,
LA3ZA Unofficial Guide to K2 modifications: 
http://la3za.blogspot.com/p/la3za-unofficial-guide-to-elecraft-k2.html
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[Elecraft] Vedr: Emails to Elecraft are not answered

2014-07-04 Thread Martin Storli - LA8OKA
Try using a different email address, that might help you through the spam 
folder.

Martin Storli 
LA8OKA
Oslo, Norway 
 
ARCTICPEAK's Radio pages! 
http://www.arcticpeak.com/radio.htm
 


 Fra: tom...@videotron.ca tom...@videotron.ca
Til: Elecraft Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sendt: Torsdag, 3. juli 2014 15.36
Emne: [Elecraft] Emails to Elecraft are not answered
  

Hi,I am sending this message here in the hopes that I can get some help from 
Elecraft concerning emails not being answered.
Over the last couple of months I have sent several emails to various people and 
support at Elecraft and have never had a reply. This has also happened in the 
past when I was working with tech support on an issue with my KPA500. I have 
called to try and have this resolved but it did not get resolved.
One email I send a few weeks ago, was answered a number of days later with an 
apology that my message was in the persons spam folder. However a follow up was 
not replied to even though it was resent several times.
I am sure that this is an error somewhere in the Elecraft email server. I own 
the complete K line as well as the complete KX3 line. I am a developer of 
software targeting to the Elecraft products and at least 5 people have bought a 
K3 or KX3 as a result of my software, so it is important for me to have some 
feedback at times. I also have provided comments as to bugs that I have found.
Could someone please resolved this for me? Thanks for your understanding.


Tom Blahovici va2fsq
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Re: [Elecraft] Vedr: Emails to Elecraft are not answered

2014-07-04 Thread Bill W2BLC

Not everyone has the luxury of multiple email addresses.

Bill W2BLC K-Line

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[Elecraft] K3 - noise reduction query

2014-07-04 Thread Bill W2BLC
It is lightning season and I have been floundering around the menus on 
the K3's DSP NR system. I have found no setting that really do much of 
clean-up on lightning static. I also have tried using the ATT and RF 
Gain settings also.


The sad part is that My cheap little Kenwood TS480 does a much better 
job of cleaning up this noise.


Of course, lightning static is very random and difficult to reduce. My 
use of HF is 40 and 75, so directional antennas are not an option - as 
some suggested.


Please do not answer with direct emails - the group needs to share in 
this knowledge.


Thanks,

Bill W2BLC K-Line


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - noise reduction query

2014-07-04 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


 The sad part is that My cheap little Kenwood TS480 does a much better
 job of cleaning up this noise.

You are trolling for complaints on the Elecraft noise reduction - not
looking for a solution.  The Elecraft noise reduction is designed for
smooth noise - not impulse noise which is a noise blanker function.

A smooth noise reduction system (LMS)  operates by forming bandpass
filters around what it determines to be signal components and passing
just the signal.  You will have better results with lightning by
working with the noise blanker - probably on a long setting - as
it is designed to work with fast rise time signals.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 2014-07-04 9:17 AM, Bill W2BLC wrote:

It is lightning season and I have been floundering around the menus on
the K3's DSP NR system. I have found no setting that really do much of
clean-up on lightning static. I also have tried using the ATT and RF
Gain settings also.

The sad part is that My cheap little Kenwood TS480 does a much better
job of cleaning up this noise.

Of course, lightning static is very random and difficult to reduce. My
use of HF is 40 and 75, so directional antennas are not an option - as
some suggested.

Please do not answer with direct emails - the group needs to share in
this knowledge.

Thanks,

Bill W2BLC K-Line


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - noise reduction query

2014-07-04 Thread Bill W2BLC
I am trolling for nothing other than suggestions and possibly successful 
settings used by other K3 users. The purpose of this reflector is to aid 
owners/users of Elecraft equipment.


If you have a problem with my asking for K3 operating information and 
shared knowledge - TUFF!


Bill W2BLC K-Line
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - noise reduction query

2014-07-04 Thread John, 9H5G
Bill,

I suggest you use your TS-480 rather than the K3 if that's what works for you. 
Personally, mine has been gathering dust since I got my K3. 

73 de John, 9H5G

 On Jul 4, 2014, at 3:36 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote:
 
 
  The sad part is that My cheap little Kenwood TS480 does a much better
  job of cleaning up this noise.
 
 You are trolling for complaints on the Elecraft noise reduction - not
 looking for a solution.  The Elecraft noise reduction is designed for
 smooth noise - not impulse noise which is a noise blanker function.
 
 A smooth noise reduction system (LMS)  operates by forming bandpass
 filters around what it determines to be signal components and passing
 just the signal.  You will have better results with lightning by
 working with the noise blanker - probably on a long setting - as
 it is designed to work with fast rise time signals.
 
 73,
 
   ... Joe, W4TV
 
 
 On 2014-07-04 9:17 AM, Bill W2BLC wrote:
 It is lightning season and I have been floundering around the menus on
 the K3's DSP NR system. I have found no setting that really do much of
 clean-up on lightning static. I also have tried using the ATT and RF
 Gain settings also.
 
 The sad part is that My cheap little Kenwood TS480 does a much better
 job of cleaning up this noise.
 
 Of course, lightning static is very random and difficult to reduce. My
 use of HF is 40 and 75, so directional antennas are not an option - as
 some suggested.
 
 Please do not answer with direct emails - the group needs to share in
 this knowledge.
 
 Thanks,
 
 Bill W2BLC K-Line
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - noise reduction query

2014-07-04 Thread John Oppenheimer
Hi Bill,

Are you using; NR, IF NB, or dsp NB?

John KN5L
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - noise reduction query

2014-07-04 Thread Bill W2BLC
Actually - all of the above. I have spent a lot of time playing with all 
the NB and NR settings (there are many combinations) and have 
incorporated the ATT and reduced RF Gain into the mix. My understanding 
is bringing in the RF at a lower level allows the various DSP devices to 
get a running start at cleaning up the noise. So far I have had very 
little success.


I am hoping someone out there has come up with a magic bullet setting 
(or even a workable setting) that can be shared. This has been a summer 
with loads of lightning static.


Thanks,

Bill W2BLC K-Line


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - noise reduction query

2014-07-04 Thread Bill W2BLC
The K3 is far more capable than the 480 and has the entire line running 
from it. I should not have to be content with the 480 - that is why I 
have the K-Line.


That said, I am sure there is a setting out there that will work - I 
have not found it - hence, the reason I ask.


Bill W2BLC K-Line

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - noise reduction query

2014-07-04 Thread Eduardo González
Probably K3 NB is not effective filtering your particular noise. Impulsive
noise is very hard of characterize because are infinite patterns possible.
I have filtered majority of arching noise but eventually not was possible.
You are tested NB analog and NB digital and combined both?
I remember a 11m radio (3-5825A) with a NB more effective than TS-440S,
with only a particular noise.
Recently I discovered a static noise effectively filtered by IC-736 but a
IC-781 wasn't capable
We must accepts not cheap equipment wasn't capable filter a type of noise
is frustrating.

Edu yv4gmj
On Jul 4, 2014 9:51 AM, John, 9H5G kk4...@gmail.com wrote:

 Bill,

 I suggest you use your TS-480 rather than the K3 if that's what works for
 you. Personally, mine has been gathering dust since I got my K3.

 73 de John, 9H5G

  On Jul 4, 2014, at 3:36 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote:
 
 
   The sad part is that My cheap little Kenwood TS480 does a much better
   job of cleaning up this noise.
 
  You are trolling for complaints on the Elecraft noise reduction - not
  looking for a solution.  The Elecraft noise reduction is designed for
  smooth noise - not impulse noise which is a noise blanker function.
 
  A smooth noise reduction system (LMS)  operates by forming bandpass
  filters around what it determines to be signal components and passing
  just the signal.  You will have better results with lightning by
  working with the noise blanker - probably on a long setting - as
  it is designed to work with fast rise time signals.
 
  73,
 
... Joe, W4TV
 
 
  On 2014-07-04 9:17 AM, Bill W2BLC wrote:
  It is lightning season and I have been floundering around the menus on
  the K3's DSP NR system. I have found no setting that really do much of
  clean-up on lightning static. I also have tried using the ATT and RF
  Gain settings also.
 
  The sad part is that My cheap little Kenwood TS480 does a much better
  job of cleaning up this noise.
 
  Of course, lightning static is very random and difficult to reduce. My
  use of HF is 40 and 75, so directional antennas are not an option - as
  some suggested.
 
  Please do not answer with direct emails - the group needs to share in
  this knowledge.
 
  Thanks,
 
  Bill W2BLC K-Line
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - noise reduction query

2014-07-04 Thread Eduardo González
Just now i'm suffering a impulsive noise not filtered by IC-7700,
IC-756proIII, IC-781, however K3 is capable filter this noise with a beside
artifacts, audio become distorted because only is filtered with aggressive
adjustments.

Edu
Yv4gmj
On Jul 4, 2014 10:30 AM, Eduardo González edujo...@gmail.com wrote:

 Probably K3 NB is not effective filtering your particular noise. Impulsive
 noise is very hard of characterize because are infinite patterns possible.
 I have filtered majority of arching noise but eventually not was possible.
 You are tested NB analog and NB digital and combined both?
 I remember a 11m radio (3-5825A) with a NB more effective than TS-440S,
 with only a particular noise.
 Recently I discovered a static noise effectively filtered by IC-736 but a
 IC-781 wasn't capable
 We must accepts not cheap equipment wasn't capable filter a type of noise
 is frustrating.

 Edu yv4gmj
 On Jul 4, 2014 9:51 AM, John, 9H5G kk4...@gmail.com wrote:

 Bill,

 I suggest you use your TS-480 rather than the K3 if that's what works for
 you. Personally, mine has been gathering dust since I got my K3.

 73 de John, 9H5G

  On Jul 4, 2014, at 3:36 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com
 wrote:
 
 
   The sad part is that My cheap little Kenwood TS480 does a much better
   job of cleaning up this noise.
 
  You are trolling for complaints on the Elecraft noise reduction - not
  looking for a solution.  The Elecraft noise reduction is designed for
  smooth noise - not impulse noise which is a noise blanker function.
 
  A smooth noise reduction system (LMS)  operates by forming bandpass
  filters around what it determines to be signal components and passing
  just the signal.  You will have better results with lightning by
  working with the noise blanker - probably on a long setting - as
  it is designed to work with fast rise time signals.
 
  73,
 
... Joe, W4TV
 
 
  On 2014-07-04 9:17 AM, Bill W2BLC wrote:
  It is lightning season and I have been floundering around the menus on
  the K3's DSP NR system. I have found no setting that really do much of
  clean-up on lightning static. I also have tried using the ATT and RF
  Gain settings also.
 
  The sad part is that My cheap little Kenwood TS480 does a much better
  job of cleaning up this noise.
 
  Of course, lightning static is very random and difficult to reduce. My
  use of HF is 40 and 75, so directional antennas are not an option - as
  some suggested.
 
  Please do not answer with direct emails - the group needs to share in
  this knowledge.
 
  Thanks,
 
  Bill W2BLC K-Line
 
 
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[Elecraft] Back On the Reflector

2014-07-04 Thread Elliott Lawrence
My previous problem was caused by Time Warner blocking posts from QTH.COM the 
reflector provide.  I have subscribed using a different email provider as the 
situation has not yet been resolved.

Thanks to all for the earlier messages of assistance.

73
Elliott WA6TLA
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - noise reduction query

2014-07-04 Thread Don Wilhelm

Bill,

With the NB, it will often help to *increase* the RF gain or turn on the 
preamp.  The noise impulse must be above a threshold before it will 
trigger the blanking function.  Keep in mind that setting the NB so the 
blanking pulse is wider may result in distorted signals. It does just 
what the name suggests, it puts a blank *hole* in the received signal.


The NB is better for fast rise time impulse noise such as lightning and 
automotive ignition noise.  NR will do nothing to help that type noise.


I do not believe there is any one magic bullet.  What works for one 
noise may not work for the next one.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/4/2014 10:39 AM, Bill W2BLC wrote:
Actually - all of the above. I have spent a lot of time playing with 
all the NB and NR settings (there are many combinations) and have 
incorporated the ATT and reduced RF Gain into the mix. My 
understanding is bringing in the RF at a lower level allows the 
various DSP devices to get a running start at cleaning up the noise. 
So far I have had very little success.


I am hoping someone out there has come up with a magic bullet setting 
(or even a workable setting) that can be shared. This has been a 
summer with loads of lightning static.




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Re: [Elecraft] Vedr: Emails to Elecraft are not answered

2014-07-04 Thread Art Hejduk
You can set up free email addresses at gmail, netzero, and yahoo.  I'm sure
there are others as well.

73,
Art  WB8ENE


On Fri, Jul 4, 2014 at 9:08 AM, Bill W2BLC w2...@nycap.rr.com wrote:

 Not everyone has the luxury of multiple email addresses.

 Bill W2BLC K-Line


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Re: [Elecraft] Back On the Reflector

2014-07-04 Thread Jeff Herr
I would suspect that was caused by some frustrated individual who could not
figure out the concept of unsubscribing from the list and instead began
marking list emails as spam in attempt to make them stop.



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Re: [Elecraft] Back On the Reflector

2014-07-04 Thread David Cole
Hi,
Please be sure to let Scott know that he is being blocked, he will
contact them and fix...
-- 
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
for Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
for MM-SSTV see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info


On Fri, 2014-07-04 at 08:35 -0700, Elliott Lawrence wrote:
 My previous problem was caused by Time Warner blocking posts from QTH.COM the 
 reflector provide.  I have subscribed using a different email provider as the 
 situation has not yet been resolved.
 
 Thanks to all for the earlier messages of assistance.
 
 73
 Elliott WA6TLA
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[Elecraft] [P3] Center Freq Left Edge Command

2014-07-04 Thread Jim Miller
I've been scanning the P3 Programmers manual looking for a way to combine
commands to achieve the effect of making the VFO-A frequency set to the
left edge of the display.

I can't figure out how to do this.

Anyone else?

Thanks

Jim ab3cv
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[Elecraft] [OT] Jim's Dot Stabilizer

2014-07-04 Thread James Beitchman
Bug users,

 

A few months ago Jim, W0EB, posted a notice offering a device called a dot
stabilizer to bug users.  I have purchased and installed one of these on my
ancient Vibroplex Champion.  It is quite amazing.  Gone are scratchy dots
and sending is smoother and more regular. Before Jim's post I did not know
that such a device existed.  No bug user should be without one.   The CW
Police may still not like my occasionally intentional long dashes and
sometimes Lake Erie swing - sorry about that decoder-users, but my dots,
smoothness and error-free sending have significantly improved. 

 

73,

 

Buzz

W3EMD

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[Elecraft] AUXBUS

2014-07-04 Thread w8zn54

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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Jim's Dot Stabilizer

2014-07-04 Thread EricJ
All electronic keyers should come with a Lake Erie Swing mode. Makes 
more sense than having two iambic modes.


Eric
KE6US

On 7/4/2014 10:55 AM, James Beitchman wrote:

Bug users,

  


A few months ago Jim, W0EB, posted a notice offering a device called a dot
stabilizer to bug users.  I have purchased and installed one of these on my
ancient Vibroplex Champion.  It is quite amazing.  Gone are scratchy dots
and sending is smoother and more regular. Before Jim's post I did not know
that such a device existed.  No bug user should be without one.   The CW
Police may still not like my occasionally intentional long dashes and
sometimes Lake Erie swing - sorry about that decoder-users, but my dots,
smoothness and error-free sending have significantly improved.

  


73,

  


Buzz

W3EMD

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Re: [Elecraft] Kx 3 2 meter manual

2014-07-04 Thread Wayne Burdick
There are some additional subtleties :)  We hope to post the first edition of 
the manual next week. 

Wayne
N6KR


On Jul 1, 2014, at 12:55 PM, Edward R Cole kl...@acsalaska.net wrote:

 From: Tony Rowland biggsbigb...@gmail.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] Kx 3 2 meter manual
 Message-ID: d42bfb2f-045b-4ace-a21a-d0c3c984a...@gmail.com
 Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=us-ascii
 
 
 When will the 2 meter manual be ready for download?
 Sent from my iPad
 ---
 Um - what were you looking to learn from a 2M manual?
 
 The conversion is a credit card sized pc board with two very tiny 
 connectors to couple LO and ANT.  Screw in the sma connector, connect LO  
 ANT to pcb, two 4-40 machine screws hold it in place on top of the ATU, add a 
 metal shield.  Final step screw thru the TO-220 PA transistor tab to the 
 cabinet - less than an hour procedure.  All covered in the installation 
 manual.
 
 To use it with the KX3, go to page-21 of the KX3 Owner's Manual under 
 Transverter Bands and follow the instructions for the KX3-2M.  I suggest:
 XVn = XV1
 XV1 RF = 144
 XV1 IF = 50
 XV1 PWR = 3.0
 XV1 ADR = Trn 0
 
 Use KX3 Frequency Memory Editor to add 2m channels.
 
 That's it!
 
 
 73, Ed - KL7UW
 http://www.kl7uw.com
Kits made by KL7UW
 Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com
 
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Jim's Dot Stabilizer

2014-07-04 Thread Fred Jensen
As long as the Iambic mode you replace isn't *my* Iambic mode. :-)  Why 
is it called Lake Erie Swing?  For that matter, why are there two 
Iambic modes in the first place?


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org

On 7/4/2014 11:57 AM, EricJ wrote:

All electronic keyers should come with a Lake Erie Swing mode. Makes
more sense than having two iambic modes.

Eric
KE6US



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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Jim's Dot Stabilizer

2014-07-04 Thread EricJ
Here's a couple of recordings of W0BMU and the Lake Erie swing that Buzz 
mentions. Listen online or d/l them. The bands used to be full of 
interesting and quirky fists and styles like this. Not unlike speech 
patterns some were quite beautiful, some were in-your-face obnoxious. 
That was before non-meat code readers and (gakk!) keyboards.


I always thought the Lake Erie swing was easy to copy in the speed range 
of most ham QSOs. It has an informal chatty feel to it.


Anyway, for those who want to remember and for those who never knew:

https://archive.org/details/W0bmuHowardtexHarveyW0bmu

Eric
KE6US



On 7/4/2014 10:55 AM, James Beitchman wrote:

Bug users,

  


A few months ago Jim, W0EB, posted a notice offering a device called a dot
stabilizer to bug users.  I have purchased and installed one of these on my
ancient Vibroplex Champion.  It is quite amazing.  Gone are scratchy dots
and sending is smoother and more regular. Before Jim's post I did not know
that such a device existed.  No bug user should be without one.   The CW
Police may still not like my occasionally intentional long dashes and
sometimes Lake Erie swing - sorry about that decoder-users, but my dots,
smoothness and error-free sending have significantly improved.

  


73,

  


Buzz

W3EMD

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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Jim's Dot Stabilizer

2014-07-04 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


 Why is it called Lake Erie Swing?

Who knows?  I always heard it called a banana boat swing but then
my CW mentors were from around Lake Erie G.


For that matter, why are there two Iambic modes in the first place?


The original Curtis Iambic mode completed the element (dot or dash)
being sent when [both] paddles were released at the same time.  The
iambic mode in the AccuKeyer had a logic error - the element memories
were set as soon as the previous element completed - that completed the
element being sent and then sent the *opposite* element if both paddles
were released at the same time.  This became known as Iambic B to
distinguish it from the original Curtis iambic (Iambic A) mode.

Those who learned on an AccuKeyer generally have problems with Curtis
and vice versa.  For an Iambic B (Accukeyer) user, trying to use an
Iambic A keyer generally results in problems with incomplete letters
(C, K, R, etc.) while for an Iambic A user trying to use an Iambic B
keyer, the problems are generally more severe with extra elements
added to the end of nearly any character which ends in alternating
elements.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 2014-07-04 3:29 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:

As long as the Iambic mode you replace isn't *my* Iambic mode. :-)  Why
is it called Lake Erie Swing?  For that matter, why are there two
Iambic modes in the first place?

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org

On 7/4/2014 11:57 AM, EricJ wrote:

All electronic keyers should come with a Lake Erie Swing mode. Makes
more sense than having two iambic modes.

Eric
KE6US



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Re: [Elecraft] Kx 3 2 meter manual

2014-07-04 Thread Edward R Cole

Wayne,

OK, I was not saying a manual would not be useful or appreciated, 
only that basic info to start using the KX3-2M is already 
available.  I am using mine on SSB and local FM channels.  I even 
added the local NOAA wx channel at 162.475 MHz without any more 
information than what is in the KX3 manual (easier to do using the 
memory editor sw).


Certainly, safe handling of the credit-card sized module is important 
so careful reading of the installation is advised.  Even as a field 
tester, I made a simple mistake that resulted in 0.3w vs 3.0w RF 
output.  Fortunately no permanent harm came from that.  I'm getting 
great on-air reports using the KX3-2M.  Next is adding a 30w 
amplifier (RFC-2-23).


I'll be interested in seeing the new 2m manual.

73, Ed - KL7UW

At 11:18 AM 7/4/2014, Wayne Burdick wrote:
There are some additional subtleties :)  We hope to post the first 
edition of the manual next week.


Wayne
N6KR


On Jul 1, 2014, at 12:55 PM, Edward R Cole kl...@acsalaska.net wrote:

 From: Tony Rowland biggsbigb...@gmail.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] Kx 3 2 meter manual
 Message-ID: d42bfb2f-045b-4ace-a21a-d0c3c984a...@gmail.com
 Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=us-ascii


 When will the 2 meter manual be ready for download?
 Sent from my iPad
 
---

 Um - what were you looking to learn from a 2M manual?

 The conversion is a credit card sized pc board with two very 
tiny connectors to couple LO and ANT.  Screw in the sma connector, 
connect LO  ANT to pcb, two 4-40 machine screws hold it in place 
on top of the ATU, add a metal shield.  Final step screw thru the 
TO-220 PA transistor tab to the cabinet - less than an hour 
procedure.  All covered in the installation manual.


 To use it with the KX3, go to page-21 of the KX3 Owner's Manual 
under Transverter Bands and follow the instructions for the 
KX3-2M.  I suggest:

 XVn = XV1
 XV1 RF = 144
 XV1 IF = 50
 XV1 PWR = 3.0
 XV1 ADR = Trn 0

 Use KX3 Frequency Memory Editor to add 2m channels.

 That's it!


 73, Ed - KL7UW
 http://www.kl7uw.com
Kits made by KL7UW
 Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
Kits made by KL7UW
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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[Elecraft] AUXBUS Question

2014-07-04 Thread w8zn54
Does anyone know the structure of the AUXBUS protocol? I want to make a decoder 
for a KX3 to decode more than 3 VHF bands that the KRC2 supports.

Thanks!!! 

Terry - W8ZN
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 -- Noise reduction query

2014-07-04 Thread Jeff Cathrow
And one more thing; 
 
floundering= fishing for flounder
 
foundering=adrift, as in the Great Sea of Elecraft Features
 
My minor pet peeve set straight so I will go QRT without further ado...

73,
 
Jeff, NH7RO

 
 Happy K-Line-r
 
 
 
 
 

  
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Re: [Elecraft] AUXBUS Question

2014-07-04 Thread Wayne Burdick
Hi Terry,

The AuxBus isn't yet supported by the KX3. It's on my list. But it will behave 
exactly the same as a K3 in this regard.

The KRC2 can decode up to 7 bands, I believe, but we haven't tried one with the 
KX3 yet (since the AuxBus isn't yet supported).

Wayne
N6KR



On Jul 4, 2014, at 1:01 PM, w8z...@verizon.net wrote:

 Does anyone know the structure of the AUXBUS protocol? I want to make a 
 decoder for a KX3 to decode more than 3 VHF bands that the KRC2 supports.
 
 Thanks!!! 
 
 Terry - W8ZN
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Re: [Elecraft] Kx 3 2 meter manual

2014-07-04 Thread Wayne Burdick
Hi Ed,

Glad to hear the module is working well for you. Yes, the basics are covered 
pretty well even in the KX3 owner's manual (latest release, plus errata). the 
KX3-2M/-4M manual goes into great details on installation, setup, specs, etc.

tnx
Wayne
N6KR


On Jul 4, 2014, at 12:51 PM, Edward R Cole kl...@acsalaska.net wrote:

 Wayne,
 
 OK, I was not saying a manual would not be useful or appreciated, only that 
 basic info to start using the KX3-2M is already available.  I am using mine 
 on SSB and local FM channels.  I even added the local NOAA wx channel at 
 162.475 MHz without any more information than what is in the KX3 manual 
 (easier to do using the memory editor sw).
 
 Certainly, safe handling of the credit-card sized module is important so 
 careful reading of the installation is advised.  Even as a field tester, I 
 made a simple mistake that resulted in 0.3w vs 3.0w RF output.  Fortunately 
 no permanent harm came from that.  I'm getting great on-air reports using the 
 KX3-2M.  Next is adding a 30w amplifier (RFC-2-23).
 
 I'll be interested in seeing the new 2m manual.
 
 73, Ed - KL7UW
 
 At 11:18 AM 7/4/2014, Wayne Burdick wrote:
 There are some additional subtleties :)  We hope to post the first edition 
 of the manual next week.
 
 Wayne
 N6KR
 
 
 On Jul 1, 2014, at 12:55 PM, Edward R Cole kl...@acsalaska.net wrote:
 
  From: Tony Rowland biggsbigb...@gmail.com
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Subject: [Elecraft] Kx 3 2 meter manual
  Message-ID: d42bfb2f-045b-4ace-a21a-d0c3c984a...@gmail.com
  Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=us-ascii
 
 
  When will the 2 meter manual be ready for download?
  Sent from my iPad
  ---
  Um - what were you looking to learn from a 2M manual?
 
  The conversion is a credit card sized pc board with two very tiny 
  connectors to couple LO and ANT.  Screw in the sma connector, connect LO  
  ANT to pcb, two 4-40 machine screws hold it in place on top of the ATU, 
  add a metal shield.  Final step screw thru the TO-220 PA transistor tab to 
  the cabinet - less than an hour procedure.  All covered in the 
  installation manual.
 
  To use it with the KX3, go to page-21 of the KX3 Owner's Manual under 
  Transverter Bands and follow the instructions for the KX3-2M.  I suggest:
  XVn = XV1
  XV1 RF = 144
  XV1 IF = 50
  XV1 PWR = 3.0
  XV1 ADR = Trn 0
 
  Use KX3 Frequency Memory Editor to add 2m channels.
 
  That's it!
 
 
  73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
 Kits made by KL7UW
  Dubus Mag business:
 dubus...@gmail.com
 
  __
  Elecraft mailing list
  Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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  This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
  Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
  Message delivered to n...@elecraft.com
 
 73, Ed - KL7UW
 http://www.kl7uw.com
Kits made by KL7UW
 Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com
 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - noise reduction query

2014-07-04 Thread Wes (N7WS)

Assumes facts not in evidence and is uncalled for.

On 7/4/2014 6:36 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


 The sad part is that My cheap little Kenwood TS480 does a much better
 job of cleaning up this noise.

You are trolling for complaints on the Elecraft noise reduction - not
looking for a solution. 


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[Elecraft] Personalizing CW with the K Line

2014-07-04 Thread Dauer, Edward
Eric -- 

Thanks for sharing the recordings.  I've heard fists somewhat like that
but none quite so distinctive.  I tried to figure out what makes the swing
sound the way it does.  I don't have a scope or any other device to
visualize or capture it, so this is just by ear - it seems that his dahs
are much more than three times as long as his dits, and that the leading
dah in a character that begins with a dah is longer than the following
dahs.  Maybe someone with the right equipment (and the time to spend on
it) could do a better analysis.  I would be interesting to know.

Both the K3 and the KX3 allow for some personalization (as do many other
rigs), by changing the weight ratios -- i.e. the ratios of dit length to
dah length and of the element length to the inter-element spacing.  There
may be other variables in the F/W as well that I haven't looked at.  I
have never played with it, being an old stick-in-the-mud 3:1 curmudgeon;
but I've wondered whether an idiosyncratic weighting would help make a
signal stand out in a pile-up or make for better copy in the QRM . . .
Anyone know?

Ted, KN1CBR




--

Message: 29
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2014 12:39:43 -0700
From: EricJ eric_c...@hotmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Jim's Dot Stabilizer
Message-ID: blu436-smtp8155203c73c82aaa50d1b38e...@phx.gbl
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Here's a couple of recordings of W0BMU and the Lake Erie swing that Buzz
mentions. Listen online or d/l them. The bands used to be full of
interesting and quirky fists and styles like this. Not unlike speech
patterns some were quite beautiful, some were in-your-face obnoxious.
That was before non-meat code readers and (gakk!) keyboards.

I always thought the Lake Erie swing was easy to copy in the speed range
of most ham QSOs. It has an informal chatty feel to it.

Anyway, for those who want to remember and for those who never knew:

https://archive.org/details/W0bmuHowardtexHarveyW0bmu

Eric
KE6US




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - noise reduction query

2014-07-04 Thread Wes (N7WS)
While times and technology have changed in the last 37 years, a little paper I 
wrote back then might be of interest.  Sorry there is something missing near the 
end. Publisher's fault, not mine.


http://sadxa.org/n7ws/Noise_Blanker.pdf

Wes  N7WS

  On 7/4/2014 8:43 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Bill,

With the NB, it will often help to *increase* the RF gain or turn on the 
preamp.  The noise impulse must be above a threshold before it will trigger 
the blanking function.  Keep in mind that setting the NB so the blanking pulse 
is wider may result in distorted signals. It does just what the name suggests, 
it puts a blank *hole* in the received signal.


The NB is better for fast rise time impulse noise such as lightning and 
automotive ignition noise.  NR will do nothing to help that type noise.


I do not believe there is any one magic bullet.  What works for one noise may 
not work for the next one.


73,
Don W3FPR



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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 FAST-PLAY field-test firmware now available (rev. 2.11)

2014-07-04 Thread Wayne Burdick
Thanks for the report, Ken. I'm glad it's working well.

Wayne
N6KR

On Jun 30, 2014, at 1:44 PM, Kenneth A Christiansen w...@i29.net wrote:

 Hi to the group. 
 I updated my KX3 to this FAST-PLAY firmware just hours before field day 
 started. I made 118 QRP battery contacts using the Fast-Play feature and had 
 no troubles with the download or the firmware. I was able to leave most of 
 the cables between my computer and the KX3 disconnected. I did use the KX3 to 
 USB interface so the N3FJP software could log my frequency for each contact. 
 I found by using FAST-PLAY on the KX3 that I did not have to touch the mouse 
 as N3FJP just kept doing what I wanted and the KX3 was handy beside the 
 computer. A touch of 2 buttons completed most contacts. The built in paddle 
 was used about twice during the entire contest. Once again thanks Wayne as I 
 considered this a wonderful improvement to the firmware.
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
 On Jun 27, 2014, at 2:05 PM, Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com wrote:
 
 Several KX3 users have now tested the new fast-play feature (see operating 
 details below), so we're making the firmware available for those who don't 
 mind working with a field-test release. It'll be a great feature for Field 
 Day, but you'll want to get it downloaded and tested before hand. 
 
 The rev. 2.11 firmware can be found on this page:
 
  ftp://ftp.elecraft.com/KX3/firmware/beta/
 

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Re: [Elecraft] Personalizing CW with the K Line

2014-07-04 Thread EricJ
I wouldn't intentionally develop an idiosyncratic fist to make me stand 
out, but in the 60's I could identify all of my regular on the air ham 
friends by their individual fists without every hearing a call.


The main characteristic of the Lake Erie swing was dots send at about 40 
wpm and dashes at whatever the op chose. It was easy to send very fast 
dots with a bug (being automatic!), but dashes were much slower for most 
operators. I think the rationale was the 40 wpm dots brought the overall 
speed up, even though the op was still sending dashes at a lower capability.


Eventually, though, I think the LE swing just became a dialect that 
propagated through a particular set of operators (Erie Canal for LE 
swing and marine ops for banana boat swing?), and spread from there. It 
may not even have been any more efficient--it was just the way you sent 
in a particular group to identify yourself and be accepted. The same way 
that non-Southerners start using y'all all over the place an hour after 
they land at a Southern airport.


I don't have a K3, so I don't know if it can be set up to replicate an 
LE swing. It could if you can independently vary the speed of dots and 
dashes. You wouldn't have the sometimes difficult corruption of random 
extra dots and weird variations in dash length, but you could have the 
best of LE swing which was the lilt and charm of the faster dots. If I 
were to try it, I'd probably set dash length to 20 wpm equivalent and 
dot to 40 wpm. It would be fun to try, but not everyone likes to hear a 
Lake Erie swing--or Southern accents for that matter.


Eric
KE6US



On 7/4/2014 1:23 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:

Eric --

Thanks for sharing the recordings.  I've heard fists somewhat like that
but none quite so distinctive.  I tried to figure out what makes the swing
sound the way it does.  I don't have a scope or any other device to
visualize or capture it, so this is just by ear - it seems that his dahs
are much more than three times as long as his dits, and that the leading
dah in a character that begins with a dah is longer than the following
dahs.  Maybe someone with the right equipment (and the time to spend on
it) could do a better analysis.  I would be interesting to know.

Both the K3 and the KX3 allow for some personalization (as do many other
rigs), by changing the weight ratios -- i.e. the ratios of dit length to
dah length and of the element length to the inter-element spacing.  There
may be other variables in the F/W as well that I haven't looked at.  I
have never played with it, being an old stick-in-the-mud 3:1 curmudgeon;
but I've wondered whether an idiosyncratic weighting would help make a
signal stand out in a pile-up or make for better copy in the QRM . . .
Anyone know?

Ted, KN1CBR




--

Message: 29
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2014 12:39:43 -0700
From: EricJ eric_c...@hotmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Jim's Dot Stabilizer
Message-ID: blu436-smtp8155203c73c82aaa50d1b38e...@phx.gbl
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Here's a couple of recordings of W0BMU and the Lake Erie swing that Buzz
mentions. Listen online or d/l them. The bands used to be full of
interesting and quirky fists and styles like this. Not unlike speech
patterns some were quite beautiful, some were in-your-face obnoxious.
That was before non-meat code readers and (gakk!) keyboards.

I always thought the Lake Erie swing was easy to copy in the speed range
of most ham QSOs. It has an informal chatty feel to it.

Anyway, for those who want to remember and for those who never knew:

https://archive.org/details/W0bmuHowardtexHarveyW0bmu

Eric
KE6US




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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Jim's Dot Stabilizer

2014-07-04 Thread K8JHR

It is in what the keyer does when both are pushed:

http://www.palm-radio.de/pdf/IambicPaddleModeAorBfunction-1.pdf

== JHR 

On 7/4/2014 3:29 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:

As long as the Iambic mode you replace isn't *my* Iambic mode. :-)  Why
is it called Lake Erie Swing?  For that matter, why are there two
Iambic modes in the first place?



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - noise reduction query

2014-07-04 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


On 2014-07-04 4:23 PM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:
 Assumes facts not in evidence and is uncalled for.

Not true - first the question was asked and answered if nothing
else by the lack of responses.  Second - the question was asking
for information to make the noise reduction do something that it
is not designed to do (reduce impulse noise) and comparing it to
a different product in an unfavorable light.

Asking a loaded question - one that has been answered previously -
in a manner to provoke a negative response is the very essence of
trolling.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 2014-07-04 4:23 PM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:

Assumes facts not in evidence and is uncalled for.

On 7/4/2014 6:36 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


 The sad part is that My cheap little Kenwood TS480 does a much better
 job of cleaning up this noise.

You are trolling for complaints on the Elecraft noise reduction - not
looking for a solution.


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[Elecraft] A Good Antenna Length?

2014-07-04 Thread Jim GM
What antenna lengths are you using on 160M with your KX3 or  KXPA100
internal tuner? What is best for 160-6 meters? I like making my own
antennas with wire.

I usually have to give up one band or another cause it just would not tune
 up on a certain band.

I have tried to stay with in these guide lines.

-- 
Jim K9TF
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Re: [Elecraft] A Good Antenna Length?

2014-07-04 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jim,

Having one antenna to cover 160 meters through 6 meters is asking a *lot*.
But I would suggest starting with a halfwave on the lowest frequency band.
If that is a half wave on 160, then the pattern will begin to break into 
multiple lobes beginning at 20 meters and up.  Whether those lobes will 
be in a favorable direction for you is a different question.


Of course, you would feed such an antenna with open wire line or ladder 
line because those are relatively low loss and losses will increase as 
the SWR increases.  The feedline will have a high SWR on some bands.


The length of the feedline makes a big difference in the ability of any 
given tuner to resolve the impedance at the shack end.  A few sessions 
with the TLW (Transmission Line for Windows) may be helpful in 
determining the best feedline length compromise that ends up with a 
usable impedance at the shack end for all bands considered.  Of course 
it will be necessary to know the antenna feedpoint for each band to know 
how to find the impedance transformation that will be present at the 
shack end.  Antenna modeling can answer that antenna feedpoint impedance 
question.


If the feedpoint impedance at the shack end is out of range of the tuner 
being used, some additional capacitance or inductance placed either 
across the feedline or in series with it may be necessary to bring the 
impedance into a range that the tuner can handle.


Thirdly, you need a good current mode choke (balun) to keep RF out of 
the shack and to provide a balanced to unbalanced transformation.  Its 
impedance must be at least 10 times (more is better) the highest line 
impedance seen at the place that current mode choke is placed.


All the above must be taken into consideration for any antenna.

Yes, there is much more to your question than just the lengths of the 
radiator.  Any answers that do not also include the type and length of 
the feedline may not be able to be duplicated given your particular 
physical situation.  Antennas and feedlines are just like that.  Of 
course an antenna whose feedpoint impedance is matched to the 
transmission line characteristic impedance can use any length of that 
feedline, but that is not the usual case for multiband antennas.


You will likely have better luck with 2 antennas - one for the low HF 
bands and another for the upper HF bands - those are normally easier to 
deal with.  The ideal is a resonant antenna for each band, or fan 
antennas covering multiple bands (I restrict those to 3 bands because 
the interaction makes tuning frustrating).


Good luck on finding that magic length - many have tried over the 
years and all are compromises.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/4/2014 5:21 PM, Jim GM wrote:

What antenna lengths are you using on 160M with your KX3 or  KXPA100
internal tuner? What is best for 160-6 meters? I like making my own
antennas with wire.

I usually have to give up one band or another cause it just would not tune
  up on a certain band.

I have tried to stay with in these guide lines.



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Re: [Elecraft] A Good Antenna Length?

2014-07-04 Thread Jim GM
I have tried a 6:1 balun at the feed point of the inverted L. How ever it
presents a significant loss while QRP with 5 W. Just does not have enough
isolation from ground. yet it presents a good match.  Go figure.

-- 
Jim K9TF
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - noise reduction query

2014-07-04 Thread Bill W2BLC
The question was not loaded and was not asked in a manner to provoke 
anything - other than perhaps a helpful suggestion or two. Your 
response(s) were uncalled for and are exactly what keeps me, and I am 
sure others, from asking much of anything on this reflector. Your 
response(s) were made in a spiteful and unhelpful manner - designed to 
belittle me for asking the question I had.


The helpful spirit of this reflector was not shown today by you and my 
experience was certainly lessened by your responses.


To those taking the time to send useful information, I thank you very 
much. Same was appreciated will be read, understood, and tried. 
Unfortunately, this experience has soured me enough that I see no 
further reason to read this reflector - yeah, my sour grapes!


Bill W2BLC K-Line



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Re: [Elecraft] A Good Antenna Length?

2014-07-04 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jim,

A lossy balun will provide a good match - just the same as a dummy load 
resistor provides a good match (that is a near 100% loss if you are 
considering the radiation capability).


Everything that loads does not make a good radiator.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/4/2014 6:16 PM, Jim GM wrote:

I have tried a 6:1 balun at the feed point of the inverted L. How ever it
presents a significant loss while QRP with 5 W. Just does not have enough
isolation from ground. yet it presents a good match.  Go figure.



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Re: [Elecraft] A Good Antenna Length?

2014-07-04 Thread Dad
Why not consider a fan dipole. 160, 40, and 17 ?? Model it on an antenna 
program. You're still going to  need a tunner .

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jul 4, 2014, at 2:21 PM, Jim GM jim.gmfo...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 What antenna lengths are you using on 160M with your KX3 or  KXPA100
 internal tuner? What is best for 160-6 meters? I like making my own
 antennas with wire.
 
 I usually have to give up one band or another cause it just would not tune
 up on a certain band.
 
 I have tried to stay with in these guide lines.
 
 -- 
 Jim K9TF
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - noise reduction query

2014-07-04 Thread Hank P
If you are talking about SSB on 80 and 40 - I was playing with trying to 
copy

the K2M on 40 M SSB last nite thru all the qrn - something to play with
is the SSB bandwidth and shifting the band- it makes a lot of difference
depending on how the guy has his audio tailored or how his voice is.

You also have a lot of AGC handles to play with - last night reducing
slope and playing with threshold made  significant differences at times.

I don't think there is any magic bullet  - conditions change and what works
one time or at one location  will be different another time.  What works for
one person . one location is very unlikely to be the solution at another
place.

I used TenTec Orions  for about 10 years - they had an incredible NB for
clean line noise spikes  BUT BUT if there were any strong signals anywhere
near (25 -50 khz or more) where you were listening  , the blanker
was useless -but absolutely  great on a quiet band.

I have never found a K3 line noise NB setting as good as the ORION  BUT BUT
I can get decent blanking in crowded band conditions -- I will take that any 
day over
unusable incredible . Years ago Collins used to drive their blanker with a 
separate

noise RX at about 40 mhz - often wished the Orion did that .

NR is a whole different story - I have already been thru  ten years of NR 
discussions,
in my case for me NR F1-1  is as good as anything I have used on either CW 
or SSB
but that is for me - a top flight contester friend across town with Orion 
and K3
to A/B and who lives in a 10 dB quieter location has entirely different 
opinions.

What works for him is entirely different for me.

NO MAGIC BULLET.

My two cents worth .

73 Hank K7HP



I am hoping someone out there has come up with a magic bullet setting (or 
even a workable setting) that can be shared. This has been a summer with 
loads of lightning static.



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Re: [Elecraft] A Good Antenna Length?

2014-07-04 Thread mcduffie

 Just does not have enough
 isolation from ground. yet it presents a good match.  Go figure.

A dummy load presents a good match.  It just doesn't get out well.

Trying to have one antenna do 160-6 meters is just too much if you care about
getting out.  One antenna can do a fair job on two bands, sometimes, three if
done right.  But if you expect to have more than a dummy load on multiple bands,
you need to plan on having multiple antennas.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Jim's Dot Stabilizer

2014-07-04 Thread Fred Jensen
OK, thanks for the recordings Eric.  It isn't unique to hams, or to Erie 
Canal RO's.  I worked Coastal Marine from So California in 56-57 while I 
was a senior in high school.  That swing was fairly common, as were a 
large number of fists I can only categorize as truly sloppy, like an 
air traffic controller giving a clearance with a mouthful of marbles.


His signal was clean however, and very easy to copy.  Transmitters 
afloat were usually powered by M-G sets which often modulated the 
carrier with a whine.  MCW from an audio oscillator was common on 500 Kc 
[emergency receivers afloat were usually unpowered crystal sets with no 
BFO], and key down dragged the M-G down.  The result was a carrier that 
chirped, sometimes through the passband of my receiver, a steady whine 
that chirped, and the MCW audio that chirped, each in it's own key and 
tempo.


I sort of assumed the name came from the RO's on the freighters in the 
Great Lakes, but never really knew.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org

On 7/4/2014 12:39 PM, EricJ wrote:

Here's a couple of recordings of W0BMU and the Lake Erie swing that Buzz
mentions. Listen online or d/l them. The bands used to be full of
interesting and quirky fists and styles like this. Not unlike speech
patterns some were quite beautiful, some were in-your-face obnoxious.
That was before non-meat code readers and (gakk!) keyboards.



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Re: [Elecraft] A Good Antenna Length?

2014-07-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
Why do you need a tuner with a well designed fan dipole.  The lengths of 
each set of wires can be trimmed to allow coax feed.


I have 2 fan dipoles here, one for 20, 15, and 10 and another for 30, 
17, and 12 meters.  Each fed with a single coax.
Restricting them to 3 bands simplifies the tuning difficulties 
associated with interaction.  Keeping the wires about 1 foot apart 
reduces that interaction.


I do not mix bands that are 3rd harmonic related on the same coax, it 
just complicates things - in other words, I do not mix radiators for 80 
and 30 on the same coax, the same for radiators for 40 and 15 meters.


The KISS principle applies.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/4/2014 6:22 PM, Dad wrote:

Why not consider a fan dipole. 160, 40, and 17 ?? Model it on an antenna 
program. You're still going to  need a tunner .

Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 4, 2014, at 2:21 PM, Jim GM jim.gmfo...@gmail.com wrote:

What antenna lengths are you using on 160M with your KX3 or  KXPA100
internal tuner? What is best for 160-6 meters? I like making my own
antennas with wire.

I usually have to give up one band or another cause it just would not tune
up on a certain band.

I have tried to stay with in these guide lines.

--
Jim K9TF
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Re: [Elecraft] A Good Antenna Length?

2014-07-04 Thread Wayne Burdick

On Jul 4, 2014, at 3:34 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Why do you need a tuner with a well designed fan dipole.  The lengths of each 
 set of wires can be trimmed to allow coax feed.
 
 I have 2 fan dipoles here, one for 20, 15, and 10 and another for 30, 17, and 
 12 meters.  Each fed with a single coax.
 Restricting them to 3 bands simplifies the tuning difficulties associated 
 with interaction.  Keeping the wires about 1 foot apart reduces that 
 interaction.
 
 I do not mix bands that are 3rd harmonic related on the same coax, it just 
 complicates things - in other words, I do not mix radiators for 80 and 30 on 
 the same coax, the same for radiators for 40 and 15 meters.
 
 The KISS principle applies.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 7/4/2014 6:22 PM, Dad wrote:
 Why not consider a fan dipole. 160, 40, and 17 ?? Model it on an antenna 
 program. You're still going to  need a tunner .
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Jul 4, 2014, at 2:21 PM, Jim GM jim.gmfo...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 What antenna lengths are you using on 160M with your KX3 or  KXPA100
 internal tuner? What is best for 160-6 meters? I like making my own
 antennas with wire.
 
 I usually have to give up one band or another cause it just would not tune
 up on a certain band.
 
 I have tried to stay with in these guide lines.
 
 -- 
 Jim K9TF
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[Elecraft] OT - Old Keyers

2014-07-04 Thread Fred Jensen
I knew there was a history to this.  Related question:  About the end of 
1956, I and a couple of my teen friends built electronic keyers from 
some magazine article which is long gone from my memory.  I remember 
they had 8 or so dual triodes [12AT7's/12AU7's ??], had self-completing 
dots and dashes, and nothing else.  With the power supply, mine weighed 
about a small brick and was similar in size. Used a relay for the 
then-ubiquitous cathode keying.  We modified our bugs to key them.


I'm fairly certain the design pre-dated the TO-Keyer, I think the TO 
came about 10 years later, and as I recall used fewer tubes.  If any 
OT's remember the 50's well enough to identify my keyer, I'd appreciate 
hearing from you.  I had an opportunity to operate as HS1FJ for a few 
weeks in the mid-60's, Dad sent me my keyer and Lionel J-36, and when we 
went back to war, I never saw either of them again.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org

On 7/4/2014 12:49 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


For that matter, why are there two Iambic modes in the first place?


The original Curtis Iambic mode completed the element (dot or dash)
being sent when [both] paddles were released at the same time.  The
iambic mode in the AccuKeyer had a logic error - the element memories
were set as soon as the previous element completed - that completed the
element being sent and then sent the *opposite* element if both paddles
were released at the same time.  This became known as Iambic B to
distinguish it from the original Curtis iambic (Iambic A) mode.



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Re: [Elecraft] A Good Antenna Length?

2014-07-04 Thread Nr4c
Oops,

Jim  
I use two antennas here at my place. 
For 80 and 160 I use a 170 foot long wire running from just over my feed line 
entry to a point 40 ft below a branch on a 75 ft pine, up to to the branch and 
over to another tree ( kinda like a Z). This is fed to an L Match made from 
a section of coil and a variable capacitor for 80 and I add an additional fixed 
cap for 160. 

For higher bands I have a 40-20-10 meter fan dipole that my K-Line ( my 
KX3-Line) will tune on 40-20-17-15-12-10-6 meters. Many will say it can't 
work but please don't tell my radios!  The Elecraft tuners can tune anything!  
I once worked a friend who'd just moved and was using a GutterTron ant in the 
CQWW. Yeah, the gutter and downspout fed against a ground-rod. 

Another friend loaded up the liner in his chimney, called a GutterTron. 

Have fun. Try anything. It just might work. You can make a lot of antennas from 
a $45.00 spool of THHN and plastic cutting board from Walmart. About 2/3rds 
the price of a G5RV. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


 On Jul 4, 2014, at 5:21 PM, Jim GM jim.gmfo...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 What antenna lengths are you using on 160M with your KX3 or  KXPA100
 internal tuner? What is best for 160-6 meters? I like making my own
 antennas with wire.
 
 I usually have to give up one band or another cause it just would not tune
 up on a certain band.
 
 I have tried to stay with in these guide lines.
 
 -- 
 Jim K9TF
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Re: [Elecraft] OT - Old Keyers

2014-07-04 Thread David Christ
Probably the All-Electronic Ultimatic.  Kaye, John  W6SRY  QST April 1955 p 11 
and QST May 1955 P 36.  Four 12AU7 and four 12AT7.   Built on a 4x4x3 base.

David K0LUM


On Jul 4, 2014, at 5:48 PM, Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net wrote:

 I knew there was a history to this.  Related question:  About the end of 
 1956, I and a couple of my teen friends built electronic keyers from some 
 magazine article which is long gone from my memory.  I remember they had 8 or 
 so dual triodes [12AT7's/12AU7's ??], had self-completing dots and dashes, 
 and nothing else.  With the power supply, mine weighed about a small brick 
 and was similar in size. Used a relay for the then-ubiquitous cathode keying. 
  We modified our bugs to key them.
 
 I'm fairly certain the design pre-dated the TO-Keyer, I think the TO came 
 about 10 years later, and as I recall used fewer tubes.  If any OT's remember 
 the 50's well enough to identify my keyer, I'd appreciate hearing from you.  
 I had an opportunity to operate as HS1FJ for a few weeks in the mid-60's, Dad 
 sent me my keyer and Lionel J-36, and when we went back to war, I never saw 
 either of them again.
 
 73,
 
 Fred K6DGW
 - Northern California Contest Club
 - CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
 - www.cqp.org
 
 On 7/4/2014 12:49 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
 
 For that matter, why are there two Iambic modes in the first place?
 
 The original Curtis Iambic mode completed the element (dot or dash)
 being sent when [both] paddles were released at the same time.  The
 iambic mode in the AccuKeyer had a logic error - the element memories
 were set as soon as the previous element completed - that completed the
 element being sent and then sent the *opposite* element if both paddles
 were released at the same time.  This became known as Iambic B to
 distinguish it from the original Curtis iambic (Iambic A) mode.
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] A Good Antenna Length?

2014-07-04 Thread Wayne Burdick
Jim,

Try 102 feet (or so) for each leg of a dipole fed with twinlead or open-wire 
line. This is not a close multiple of a half-wave on any band from 160-6 
meters, so it stands a chance of providing a reasonable match on all bands. 

If the internal tuners can't find a match on one or two bands, adjust the 
length of one or both sides by a couple of feet experimentally. It'll be 
slightly imbalanced if it ends up off-center-fed, but this won't have much 
practical impact.

At my QTH I use a 4:1 balun (Elecraft BL2) right at the radio to feed this 
antenna. The BL2 also has a 4:1/1:1 switch. I use the 4:1 setting for all but 
one band, where the 1:1 setting makes it easier on the ATU. Note that if you 
don't get to a low SWR when you first tap ATU TUNE, tap again within 5 seconds 
and the tuner will try more LC combinations. This will nearly always provide a 
2:1 or better match unless the antenna presents a very high impedance. 

The KXAT3 will match a wider range than the KXAT100. For safety reasons, our 
QRO ATUs put limits on the SWR they will try to match.

Use a good ground at the station. If in your installation you experience any 
RFI at higher power, drop back to a lower level.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Jul 4, 2014, at 2:21 PM, Jim GM jim.gmfo...@gmail.com wrote:

 What antenna lengths are you using on 160M with your KX3 or  KXPA100
 internal tuner? What is best for 160-6 meters? I like making my own
 antennas with wire.
 
 I usually have to give up one band or another cause it just would not tune
 up on a certain band.
 
 I have tried to stay with in these guide lines.
 
 -- 
 Jim K9TF
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[Elecraft] kx3 2m

2014-07-04 Thread Jim Klitzing

test, please disregard
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Re: [Elecraft] Personalizing CW with the K Line

2014-07-04 Thread Rick Tavan N6XI
Back in the day I used relatively fast dots so I could vary my speed
without readjusting the weights on the vibrating arm. Dunno whether they
were 40 wpm dots or, more likely, somewhat slower than that. And I didn't
know that was called a Lake Erie Swing.

73,

/Rick N6XI


On Fri, Jul 4, 2014 at 1:57 PM, EricJ eric_c...@hotmail.com wrote:

 I wouldn't intentionally develop an idiosyncratic fist to make me stand
 out, but in the 60's I could identify all of my regular on the air ham
 friends by their individual fists without every hearing a call.

 The main characteristic of the Lake Erie swing was dots send at about 40
 wpm and dashes at whatever the op chose. It was easy to send very fast dots
 with a bug (being automatic!), but dashes were much slower for most
 operators. I think the rationale was the 40 wpm dots brought the overall
 speed up, even though the op was still sending dashes at a lower capability.

 Eventually, though, I think the LE swing just became a dialect that
 propagated through a particular set of operators (Erie Canal for LE swing
 and marine ops for banana boat swing?), and spread from there. It may not
 even have been any more efficient--it was just the way you sent in a
 particular group to identify yourself and be accepted. The same way that
 non-Southerners start using y'all all over the place an hour after they
 land at a Southern airport.

 I don't have a K3, so I don't know if it can be set up to replicate an LE
 swing. It could if you can independently vary the speed of dots and dashes.
 You wouldn't have the sometimes difficult corruption of random extra dots
 and weird variations in dash length, but you could have the best of LE
 swing which was the lilt and charm of the faster dots. If I were to try it,
 I'd probably set dash length to 20 wpm equivalent and dot to 40 wpm. It
 would be fun to try, but not everyone likes to hear a Lake Erie swing--or
 Southern accents for that matter.

 Eric
 KE6US




 On 7/4/2014 1:23 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:

 Eric --

 Thanks for sharing the recordings.  I've heard fists somewhat like that
 but none quite so distinctive.  I tried to figure out what makes the swing
 sound the way it does.  I don't have a scope or any other device to
 visualize or capture it, so this is just by ear - it seems that his dahs
 are much more than three times as long as his dits, and that the leading
 dah in a character that begins with a dah is longer than the following
 dahs.  Maybe someone with the right equipment (and the time to spend on
 it) could do a better analysis.  I would be interesting to know.

 Both the K3 and the KX3 allow for some personalization (as do many other
 rigs), by changing the weight ratios -- i.e. the ratios of dit length to
 dah length and of the element length to the inter-element spacing.  There
 may be other variables in the F/W as well that I haven't looked at.  I
 have never played with it, being an old stick-in-the-mud 3:1 curmudgeon;
 but I've wondered whether an idiosyncratic weighting would help make a
 signal stand out in a pile-up or make for better copy in the QRM . . .
 Anyone know?

 Ted, KN1CBR



 --

 Message: 29
 Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2014 12:39:43 -0700
 From: EricJ eric_c...@hotmail.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Jim's Dot Stabilizer
 Message-ID: blu436-smtp8155203c73c82aaa50d1b38e...@phx.gbl
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

 Here's a couple of recordings of W0BMU and the Lake Erie swing that Buzz
 mentions. Listen online or d/l them. The bands used to be full of
 interesting and quirky fists and styles like this. Not unlike speech
 patterns some were quite beautiful, some were in-your-face obnoxious.
 That was before non-meat code readers and (gakk!) keyboards.

 I always thought the Lake Erie swing was easy to copy in the speed range
 of most ham QSOs. It has an informal chatty feel to it.

 Anyway, for those who want to remember and for those who never knew:

 https://archive.org/details/W0bmuHowardtexHarveyW0bmu

 Eric
 KE6US



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-- 
Rick Tavan N6XI
Truckee, CA
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Re: [Elecraft] A Good Antenna Length?

2014-07-04 Thread Wayne Burdick

On Jul 4, 2014, at 4:01 PM, Nr4c n...@widomaker.com wrote:

 I once worked a friend who'd just moved and was using a GutterTron ant in 
 the CQWW. Yeah, the gutter and downspout fed against a ground-rod. 
 
 Another friend loaded up the liner in his chimney, called a GutterTron. 


I worked all over the country on 10 and 15 meters recently using a large metal 
window frame (5' x 8' picture window) as the antenna. I used alligator clips 
directly from the KX3 to two spots on the frame, experimenting with spacing. 
This is not described in the literature, but it worked. The ATU tuned up the 
window frame to ~1.0:1 on 20-6 meters.

Wayne
N6KR


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 -- Noise reduction query

2014-07-04 Thread Jeff Cathrow
OK; thanks for that; I stand corrected---to a large degree---turns out that 
their meanings actually overlap depending on the context in which each word is 
used (although I was brought up by a newspaper editor dad who explained things 
like this to me at an early age).
 
While foundering at sea means filling with water and sinking floundering can 
mean almost the same thing; to flail about helplessly or be lost in a manner of 
speaking---as you so rightly point out.  Down here on the Gulf Coast I happen 
to enjoy eating a lot of grilled flounder, too---but sometimes I have to eat 
crow as it were...
 
I suspect because the words are so often confused that their meanings have 
shifted together over the years an thank you for correcting me (and my 
apologies to the OP for my error/minor rant).  QRT on the OT subject, too



73,
 
Jeff, NH7RO
 
 
 
 
 

cathrowinternatio...@hotmail.com
 
 

 
 
From: k2av@gmail.com
Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2014 19:05:14 -0400
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 -- Noise reduction query
To: cathrowinternatio...@hotmail.com

From http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/floundering?s=t


floun·der1  [floun-der]  Show IPA

verb (used without object)

1.

to struggle with stumbling or plunging movements (usually followed by about, 
along, on, through, etc.): He saw the child floundering about in the water.

2.

to struggle clumsily or helplessly: He floundered helplessly on the first day 
of his new job.

Origin: 


1570–80;  perhaps blend of flounce1  and founder2






On Fri, Jul 4, 2014 at 4:10 PM, Jeff Cathrow cathrowinternatio...@hotmail.com 
wrote:


And one more thing;



floundering= fishing for flounder



foundering=adrift, as in the Great Sea of Elecraft Features



My minor pet peeve set straight so I will go QRT without further ado...



73,



Jeff, NH7RO





 Happy K-Line-r















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Re: [Elecraft] OT - Old Keyers

2014-07-04 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


Fred,

Here's a short bibliography from the 1960 Handbook ...

Brann, In search of the Ideal Electronic Key,  Feb 1951
Bartlett, Compact Automatic Key Design,  Dec 1951
Kaye, All-Electronic 'Ultimatic' Keyer, April  May 1955.

I'd bet you're looking for the Kaye articles - all of 1955
is here: https://archive.org/details/qstamer00amer

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 2014-07-04 6:48 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:

I knew there was a history to this.  Related question:  About the end of
1956, I and a couple of my teen friends built electronic keyers from
some magazine article which is long gone from my memory.  I remember
they had 8 or so dual triodes [12AT7's/12AU7's ??], had self-completing
dots and dashes, and nothing else.  With the power supply, mine weighed
about a small brick and was similar in size. Used a relay for the
then-ubiquitous cathode keying.  We modified our bugs to key them.

I'm fairly certain the design pre-dated the TO-Keyer, I think the TO
came about 10 years later, and as I recall used fewer tubes.  If any
OT's remember the 50's well enough to identify my keyer, I'd appreciate
hearing from you.  I had an opportunity to operate as HS1FJ for a few
weeks in the mid-60's, Dad sent me my keyer and Lionel J-36, and when we
went back to war, I never saw either of them again.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org

On 7/4/2014 12:49 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


For that matter, why are there two Iambic modes in the first place?


The original Curtis Iambic mode completed the element (dot or dash)
being sent when [both] paddles were released at the same time.  The
iambic mode in the AccuKeyer had a logic error - the element memories
were set as soon as the previous element completed - that completed the
element being sent and then sent the *opposite* element if both paddles
were released at the same time.  This became known as Iambic B to
distinguish it from the original Curtis iambic (Iambic A) mode.



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Re: [Elecraft] A Good Antenna Length?

2014-07-04 Thread Nate Bargmann
A few years ago I took a cue from a usenet posting by Walt, W2DU, that
stated that the 102 foot doublet of the G5RV is a good antenna on 80m
when fed with twin/window lead and a tuner as it is 3/8 of a wavelength
on that band.  I carried it further and have a 204 foot doublet fed with
450 ohm window lead and a Palstar AT1500DT tuner and the apex around 40
feet above ground level and the ends around 20 feet..  It may or may not
work with the K3's internal tuner as I've not tried feeding it with
coax.  It works very well for me on 160m, 80m, and 40m.  At the moment I
am also feeding it on the higher bands until I get dedicated wires up
for those bands.

As I understand it, the 3/8 wavelength on the lowest band avoids
feeding it at the voltage loop so matching is easier.  Having a 3/4
wavelength 80m and 1.5 wavelengths on 40m also matches easily in my
experience.

73, Nate N0NB

-- 

The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of all
possible worlds.  The pessimist fears this is true.

Ham radio, Linux, bikes, and more: http://www.n0nb.us
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Re: [Elecraft] A Good Antenna Length?

2014-07-04 Thread Dr. William J. Schmidt, II
That's what I use... about 103 feet... and gives reasonable match on all
bands.


Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ / J68HZ/ 8P6HK/ ZF2HZ/ PJ4HZ/ VP5HZ
 
Owner - Operator
Big Signal Ranch
Staunton, Illinois
 
email:  b...@wjschmidt.com

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wayne
Burdick
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2014 6:15 PM
To: Jim GM
Cc: Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] A Good Antenna Length?

Jim,

Try 102 feet (or so) for each leg of a dipole fed with twinlead or open-wire
line. This is not a close multiple of a half-wave on any band from 160-6
meters, so it stands a chance of providing a reasonable match on all bands. 

If the internal tuners can't find a match on one or two bands, adjust the
length of one or both sides by a couple of feet experimentally. It'll be
slightly imbalanced if it ends up off-center-fed, but this won't have much
practical impact.

At my QTH I use a 4:1 balun (Elecraft BL2) right at the radio to feed this
antenna. The BL2 also has a 4:1/1:1 switch. I use the 4:1 setting for all
but one band, where the 1:1 setting makes it easier on the ATU. Note that if
you don't get to a low SWR when you first tap ATU TUNE, tap again within 5
seconds and the tuner will try more LC combinations. This will nearly always
provide a 2:1 or better match unless the antenna presents a very high
impedance. 

The KXAT3 will match a wider range than the KXAT100. For safety reasons, our
QRO ATUs put limits on the SWR they will try to match.

Use a good ground at the station. If in your installation you experience any
RFI at higher power, drop back to a lower level.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Jul 4, 2014, at 2:21 PM, Jim GM jim.gmfo...@gmail.com wrote:

 What antenna lengths are you using on 160M with your KX3 or  KXPA100
 internal tuner? What is best for 160-6 meters? I like making my own
 antennas with wire.
 
 I usually have to give up one band or another cause it just would not tune
 up on a certain band.
 
 I have tried to stay with in these guide lines.
 
 -- 
 Jim K9TF
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Re: [Elecraft] A Good Antenna Length?

2014-07-04 Thread Hank Garretson
102 feet.

There is nothing magic about 102 feet if you feed it with open-wire line.
Having a decent match at the feed point doesn't mean squat because
feed-point impedance is transformed by the feed line and what you get at
the transmitter end won't be the same as at the feed point unless feed-line
length is an even multiple of a half wavelength.

What IS important is the total length of one half of your dipole plus your
open-wire feed.

For whatever frequency/frequencies you want an easy match on, make half of
your dipole plus feed length as close to an odd multiple of a quarter
wavelength as you can.

This can be problematic if you want to operate on multiple bands. Don't
despair--it's not that hard. You can adjust flat-top length or feed-line
length or both to get something you can match on all your bands of
interest.

Bottom line. Your ability to match is affected by both dipole length and
(open-wire) feed-line length.

73,

Hank, W6SX
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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] Center Freq Left Edge Command

2014-07-04 Thread Todd - k1tm via Elecraft
Jim AB3CV wrote
 I've been scanning the P3 Programmers manual looking for a way to combine
 commands to achieve the effect of making the VFO-A frequency set to the
 left edge of the display.

I found a way to trick the P3 into setting the frequency to the left edge
for USB, Data, RTTY and CW or right for lower sideband.  It is a combination
of K3 and P3 commands which are mode dependent.  I wanted to be able to look
at a signal with a narrowed span with the carrier at the edge.  I use DXLabs
Commander to execute the macro commands.   It ends up tickling the P3 to do
what you want.  I included examples for USB and LSB.  I have versions for
CW, Data and RTTY as well. I know it looks silly from a command standpoint
but it works pretty repeatably.  I use a series of ifmode statements in
Commander to pick the correct macro commands based on mode {not shown}.  The
result when the commands execute is the Carrier goes to the edge and then
the span is set 4.5Khz so you can look at the signal your listening to
across the full display.  

Try this for USB:  [The wait is a delay that is specific to Commander's
macro language]
'dn4;
'#CTF+000;
'#spn20;
'#fxt0;
wait
wait
'up5;
'#fxt1;
wait
wait
'#spn45;
'dn5;
'up4;

LSB I use this:

'up4;
'#CTF+000;
'#spn20;
'#fxt0;
wait
wait
'dn5;
'#fxt1;
wait
wait
'#spn45;
'up5;
'dn4;

Hope this helps.  I use it all the time with commander.  
73, Todd K1TM





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Re: [Elecraft] A Good Antenna Length?

2014-07-04 Thread Dick, K2ZR
Hi All,

When in Key West I have little space for antennas. I built a simple Off
Center Fed 40M Windom [ 67/33 or about 44'  22' ]. The long element is a
15' off of the ground while the short element that is not much higher goes
up to the peak of my QTH and back down to the other side of my deck.

 

My K2/100 - KAT100 generally runs 75W  I've had great success with this
antenna on every band 40-10. For 80M and 160M I alligator clip an 8' piece
of wire from the end of the short element to my gutter system with provides
another 80' of metal to the antenna. Do I burn up 160  80, not big time no
but, I make contacts on both bands.

 

In addition, if you ask me what I do for a ground: It's a 40' piece of #14
wire connected to a 2' piece of copper ground rod. Key West is a rock and
it's tough to get down any further. 

 

Is my 40M Windom Gutter/Rube Goldberg Contraption a dummy load, no! I have
the K2ZR/4 contest wallpaper and logs full of contacts to prove it. 

It 'taint perfect but you do what ya gotta do. And, if the bands are in
lousey shape I ride my bike 5 minutes to my shady spot at Fort Zachory
Taylor Beach and play some tunes on my Taylor Big Baby guitar. Life is good!

73,

Dick

K2ZR

Niagara County, NY

Mid-May to Mid December

 

Ricardo en Cayo Hueso 

K2ZR/4   

Key West,  The End Of The Road   IOTA NA-062

Mid-December - Time to go to Dayton

The Southernmost Ham Shack In The Continental USA

 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Nr4c
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2014 7:01 PM
To: Jim GM
Cc: Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] A Good Antenna Length?

 

Oops,

 

Jim

I use two antennas here at my place. 

For 80 and 160 I use a 170 foot long wire running from just over my feed
line entry to a point 40 ft below a branch on a 75 ft pine, up to to the
branch and over to another tree ( kinda like a Z). This is fed to an L
Match made from a section of coil and a variable capacitor for 80 and I add
an additional fixed cap for 160. 

 

For higher bands I have a 40-20-10 meter fan dipole that my K-Line ( my
KX3-Line) will tune on 40-20-17-15-12-10-6 meters. Many will say it can't
work but please don't tell my radios!  The Elecraft tuners can tune
anything!  

I once worked a friend who'd just moved and was using a GutterTron ant in
the CQWW. Yeah, the gutter and downspout fed against a ground-rod. 

 

Another friend loaded up the liner in his chimney, called a GutterTron. 

 

Have fun. Try anything. It just might work. You can make a lot of antennas
from a $45.00 spool of THHN and plastic cutting board from Walmart. About
2/3rds the price of a G5RV. 

 

Sent from my iPhone

...nr4c. bill

 

 

 On Jul 4, 2014, at 5:21 PM, Jim GM  mailto:jim.gmfo...@gmail.com
jim.gmfo...@gmail.com wrote:

 

 What antenna lengths are you using on 160M with your KX3 or  KXPA100 

 internal tuner? What is best for 160-6 meters? I like making my own 

 antennas with wire.

 

 I usually have to give up one band or another cause it just would not 

 tune up on a certain band.

 

 I have tried to stay with in these guide lines.

 

 --

 Jim K9TF

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Re: [Elecraft] A Good Antenna Length?

2014-07-04 Thread Jim's Desktop
 Been there, done that one too.  Hamfest in Concordia, KS back in the 
early 80's just after I retired from the Army.  Used an old Ten-Tec 
Argonaut and loaded the entire gutter system at the motel the hamfest 
was held at.  There was so much corrosion in the joints that even the 5 
watt Argonaut wiped out TV reception throughout the whole motel.  Worked 
a whole bunch of stations on 20 meters too.  Good thing they never 
figured out where the problem was coming from - LOL!


Jim - W0EB

-- Original Message --
From: Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com
To: Nr4c n...@widomaker.com
Cc: Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Jim GM 
jim.gmfo...@gmail.com

Sent: 7/4/2014 6:20:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] A Good Antenna Length?



On Jul 4, 2014, at 4:01 PM, Nr4c n...@widomaker.com wrote:

 I once worked a friend who'd just moved and was using a GutterTron 
ant in the CQWW. Yeah, the gutter and downspout fed against a 
ground-rod.


 Another friend loaded up the liner in his chimney, called a 
GutterTron.



I worked all over the country on 10 and 15 meters recently using a 
large metal window frame (5' x 8' picture window) as the antenna. I 
used alligator clips directly from the KX3 to two spots on the frame, 
experimenting with spacing. This is not described in the literature, 
but it worked. The ATU tuned up the window frame to ~1.0:1 on 20-6 
meters.


Wayne
N6KR


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - noise reduction query

2014-07-04 Thread Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT

Gentlemen, can we please play nice?

On 7/4/2014 3:18 PM, Bill W2BLC wrote:
The question was not loaded and was not asked in a manner to provoke 
anything - other than perhaps a helpful suggestion or two. Your 
response(s) were uncalled for and are exactly what keeps me, and I am 
sure others, from asking much of anything on this reflector. Your 
response(s) were made in a spiteful and unhelpful manner - designed to 
belittle me for asking the question I had.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - noise reduction query

2014-07-04 Thread Lyle Johnson
There is an incredible range of characteristics to unwanted signals 
that we loosely call noise.


The K3 has an array of tools to fight noise, and sometimes they work 
well in concert and sometimes better alone.


There is an IF blanker with adjustable threshold and pulse width - but 
some impulse noise ay wider than the widest available setting and this 
is likely to include lightning-based pulses.


There is also a DSP-based IF noise blanker.

There is a noise reduction, or denoiser function available with a wide 
range of settings.


AGC settings can also affect the operation, and apparent effectiveness, 
of the DSP-based noise reduction and to some degree the noise blanker.  
There is a pulse function in the AGC system that you can enable or disable,


These settings may all interact to some degree.

As the station operator, you have a complete communications system to 
manage: antenna, feedline, QTH, desired path, time of day and so forth.  
The radio is one component of the system.  The K3 offers a range of 
tools for you to use, but in the end there is unlikely to be a magic 
setting that works for everything. If there were, we would have set that 
at the factory for you (and probably removed the settable knobs for 
you to adjust)!


I suggest that if you are having a severe noise problem, you experiment 
with the various settings - including AGC threshold and slope and PRE 
and ATT settings as part of the tool set - and note which work best for 
you in your system and under which types of noise and mode(s) of operation.


You won't hurt anything, and you may learn a lot.

And, yes, some radios may work better than others with some types of 
noise under some circumstances.


73,

Lyle KK7P (still learning after all of these years...)


NO MAGIC BULLET.

I am hoping someone out there has come up with a magic bullet setting 
(or even a workable setting) that can be shared. This has been a 
summer with loads of lightning static.

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[Elecraft] K3 - noise reduction query

2014-07-04 Thread Johnny Siu
I find the noise reduction NR in KX3 is much easier to use and gives a better 
effect than NR in K3.  I just wonder whether other elecrafters feel the same.

Regrettably, none of the 4 x 8 =32 settings in the NR of K3 gives the 
performance in par with the NR in KX3.

My observations only relate to SSB operation.  I always try to find a way to 
effectively use the NR in K3 but failed.

Perhaps, experts here could guide me to the right way to use the NR in K3.

73

Johnny  VR2XMC
 


 寄件人︰ Lyle Johnson kk7p4...@gmail.com
收件人︰ elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
傳送日期︰ 2014年07月5日 (週六) 12:47 PM
主題︰ Re: [Elecraft] K3 - noise reduction query
  

There is an incredible range of characteristics to unwanted signals 
that we loosely call noise.

The K3 has an array of tools to fight noise, and sometimes they work 
well in concert and sometimes better alone.

There is an IF blanker with adjustable threshold and pulse width - but 
some impulse noise ay wider than the widest available setting and this 
is likely to include lightning-based pulses.

There is also a DSP-based IF noise blanker.

There is a noise reduction, or denoiser function available with a wide 
range of settings.

AGC settings can also affect the operation, and apparent effectiveness, 
of the DSP-based noise reduction and to some degree the noise blanker.  
There is a pulse function in the AGC system that you can enable or disable,

These settings may all interact to some degree.

As the station operator, you have a complete communications system to 
manage: antenna, feedline, QTH, desired path, time of day and so forth.  
The radio is one component of the system.  The K3 offers a range of 
tools for you to use, but in the end there is unlikely to be a magic 
setting that works for everything. If there were, we would have set that 
at the factory for you (and probably removed the settable knobs for 
you to adjust)!

I suggest that if you are having a severe noise problem, you experiment 
with the various settings - including AGC threshold and slope and PRE 
and ATT settings as part of the tool set - and note which work best for 
you in your system and under which types of noise and mode(s) of operation.

You won't hurt anything, and you may learn a lot.

And, yes, some radios may work better than others with some types of 
noise under some circumstances.

73,

Lyle KK7P (still learning after all of these years...)

 NO MAGIC BULLET.

 I am hoping someone out there has come up with a magic bullet setting 
 (or even a workable setting) that can be shared. This has been a 
 summer with loads of lightning static.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - noise reduction query

2014-07-04 Thread Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft
Joe - Please stop posting personal criticisms of other list posters. This is 
both rude and against list policy. The Op in this case was asking a reasonable 
opinion.

Eric
List Moderator
elecraft.com
_..._



 On Jul 4, 2014, at 11:18 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote:
 
 
 On 2014-07-04 4:23 PM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:
  Assumes facts not in evidence and is uncalled for.
 
 Not true - first the question was asked and answered if nothing
 else by the lack of responses.  Second - the question was asking
 for information to make the noise reduction do something that it
 is not designed to do (reduce impulse noise) and comparing it to
 a different product in an unfavorable light.
 
 Asking a loaded question - one that has been answered previously -
 in a manner to provoke a negative response is the very essence of
 trolling.
 
 73,
 
   ... Joe, W4TV
 
 
 On 2014-07-04 4:23 PM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:
 Assumes facts not in evidence and is uncalled for.
 
 On 7/4/2014 6:36 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
 
  The sad part is that My cheap little Kenwood TS480 does a much better
  job of cleaning up this noise.
 
 You are trolling for complaints on the Elecraft noise reduction - not
 looking for a solution.
 
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