Re: [Elecraft] Working Split with a Sub RX

2019-03-11 Thread Peter Dougherty
I've tried it both ways personally, and I guess through 18 years of hardcore
DXing I got used to the DX on VFO-A and the pileup on VFO-B. But the
argument could certainly be made for the opposite way. I'd wager that's how
Dxpeditions operate, transmitting on VFO-B and scanning the pileup on VFO-A.

The Left-Mix-Right menu option is great, since it allows you to easily do
whichever mode seems right for your style of operating.

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of William Levy
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2019 8:41 PM
To: Elecraft 
Subject: [Elecraft] Working Split with a Sub RX

I have always thought the K3 did it backwards.
Before the K3 I had a transceiver and a seperate RX above it.
The Receiver listened to the DX station and the Transceiver would tune to
find who was working him at the moment. Then the pounce!
So with the K3 I don't use the SPLIT button. I use the Sub on the DX station
and I lock it and then I use the transceiver knob to find the guys working
split. If you have a P3 attached you can see it and the P3 will put you
there instantaneously.

I think that's a better way to work split. Would love to hear from those
that agree or disagree.

Sincerely Bill N2WL
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Re: [Elecraft] Working Split with a Sub RX

2019-03-11 Thread Ken
Exactly what I have been doing for many years now and can’t see why I would do 
it any other way.  I switched my audio to my headphones to B-A instead of A-B 
to keep the DX station in my left ear and finding where the last station who 
worked him was located with my right ear. 

Ken,  NU4I 

Sent from my iPod

> On Mar 11, 2019, at 20:40, William Levy  wrote:
> 
> I have always thought the K3 did it backwards.
> Before the K3 I had a transceiver and a seperate RX above it.
> The Receiver listened to the DX station and the Transceiver would tune to
> find who was working him at the moment. Then the pounce!
> So with the K3 I don't use the SPLIT button. I use the Sub on the DX
> station and I lock it and then I use the transceiver knob to find the guys
> working split. If you have a P3 attached you can see it and the P3 will put
> you there instantaneously.
> 
> I think that's a better way to work split. Would love to hear from those
> that agree or disagree.
> 
> Sincerely Bill N2WL
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[Elecraft] KPA-1500 tuner questions

2019-03-11 Thread Peter Dougherty
I have a couple of questions about the KPA1500's internal tuner. 

For the most part, I leave the tuner inline. Except for two sub-bands (SSB
on both 40 and 80m) I am well below 2:1, and maybe 2.5:1 at the top end of
160m. The KPA does a good job throughout.

The problems/questions arise when I need to transition between the KPA's
internal tuner on the bottom ends of both 40 and 80, and the external
Palstar HF-Auto tuner, which I need to wrangle very high SWRs on the phone
portions of those bands. Obviously I don't want both automatic tuners inline
at the same time. The situation is most acute on 40.

The HF-Auto (external automatic tuner) is bypassed everywhere except the
range of 3650 to 4000, and 7100 to 7300. I would like to automatically have
the KPA1500's tuner go into bypass at the above ranges, just as the Palstar
auto-tuner bypasses outside of those ranges. Is this somehow possible, or
must I manually switch the tuner in and out when I cross the appropriate
thresholds?

Second question, and I think this relates to the whole "bins" thing, which I
don't understand, relates to having different tuning solutions on the same
band segment. This could be handy for me on 80m. Unlike on 40, for 80 I have
an inverted vee, and it's easy for me to drop the ends and change the length
of the antenna, so that instead of being resonant at 3550 I could make it
3700. I did this for the ARRL-SSB contest and it worked pretty well. Is it
possible to have two different sets of memorized tuning solutions in the
KPA-1500, in the event I have the vee set for CW (normal) or SSB (for phone
contests only)?


-
73 and Good DX
Peter, W2IRT



President, North Jersey DX Association

DXCC Card Checker
Letter O Manager, ARRL Incoming 2nd District QSL bureau

 

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Re: [Elecraft] 80m KPA1500 High reflected power problems **SOLVED!**

2019-03-11 Thread Peter Dougherty
This summer I intend to get an entry panel from KF7P, along with a ton of
arrestors inside for everything. 

The real difficult part will be getting all the cables that now enter the
house at base of the tower and across the crawl space to instead run under
the deck. I'm to tall, too fat, and too creaky to slither under there over
rocks and gravel to run a half-dozen or more cables. I should consider
hiring someone to attach some 4" conduit with sweeps under there. It would
make the problem go away quickly. 

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Dave
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2019 8:52 PM
Cc: Reflector Elecraft 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 80m KPA1500 High reflected power problems
**SOLVED!**

Pete,

I had a similar problemon lower end of 80 meters. Fix for me was to ground
outer jacket of all antenna cables where they enter the house. This
eliminated common mode current coming into the shack on a second coax.

Check your RX antenna cable, which does not go through the RCS-12.

Dave wo2x

Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 11, 2019, at 6:13 PM, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
>> On 3/11/2019 1:40 PM, Peter Dougherty wrote:
>> I've got my bonding about as good as I can get it for the moment, 
>> although I'm probably going to do some improvements this year. The 
>> lightning arrestors are built in to the RCS-12 antenna switchbox 
>> (RCS-12L with the gas discharge tubes), and everything's bonded at the
base of the tower.
> The function of GDTs is to offer some protection of equipment in the event
of a strike. To do that, they must be close to the equipment, not at the
tower. Lightning can induce a lot of current on the coax between the tower
and the shack. I suggest that you add arrestors (including that vertical you
use for RX) where all of your coax enters the shack, bond them to your
rod(s), and to the shack bonding.  That's probably the missing bonding that
I suspected! Also, what about bonding to the power entry panel?
>> There's
>> a single feedline coming inside from that tower-mounted switchbox. 
>> Each piece of radio gear and the computer inside is bonded by 1" 
>> braid going to a copper bus. LAN and voice line comms are not, 
>> however the connection from the pole is fiber, not copper so that's not
likely a problem.
> Agreed.
>> The copper bus
>> inside is bonded to a ground rod outside the shack, which in turn is 
>> bonded to the tower ground system.
>> 
>> The deficiency is that the copper bus is not grounded to the same 
>> point as the tower, since the tower is about 50 feet away from the shack.
> This distance is borderline for bonding to the house.
>> I guess I
>> could run a 50 or 60' run of 2" strapping from the desk, through the 
>> floor, across the crawlspace, and out the conduit to the tower, but I 
>> suspect that might be more a hindrance than a help, quite honestly.
> 
> Agreed.
> 
> My shack is in what used to be a "mother-in-law" apartment of a detached
garage. I have a rod where power enters that building (fed from the house),
a half-perimeter #6 running around the building to the shack, where there
are five driven rods, all exposed to rainfall, and three rods along that
perimeter ground. The coax entry panels (added a second one when the first
filled up) on the wall of the shack are bonded down to the rods and up to
the ground bus for the equipment. They're also bonded to steel conduit that
runs back to the entry panel.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 - FAULT:LPF VMON

2019-03-11 Thread Bob McGraw K4TAX
According to the fault table, LPF VMON is  "incorrect bias voltages at 
the TR switch".


I suggest you call or e-mail Elecraft Support with your concerns.

73

Bob, K4TAX


On 3/11/2019 7:55 PM, Hisashi T Fujinaka wrote:

What does this mean?

Other than that I can't transmit on FT8 right now? :)

I'm running KPA1500 MCU revision 02.09.



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 - FAULT:LPF VMON

2019-03-11 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
Hi Hisashi,

This usually means there is a fault with one of the control voltages in the 
amplifier. 

I will follow up with you off list via direct email about diagnosing this 
further.

73,

Eric
elecraft.com
_..._



> On Mar 11, 2019, at 5:55 PM, Hisashi T Fujinaka  wrote:
> 
> What does this mean?
> 
> Other than that I can't transmit on FT8 right now? :)
> 
> I'm running KPA1500 MCU revision 02.09.
> 
> -- 
> Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com K7EMI
> BSEE + BSChem + BAEnglish + MSCS + $2.50 = coffee
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Re: [Elecraft] ELECRAFT K2. Installing KBT2 with KIO2 in place

2019-03-11 Thread Don Wilhelm

Brian,

No problem with the KAT2 installed.  Ty-wrap the speaker cable to the 
KAT2 cable, but do not put any ty-wraps at the end of the battery.
If the speaker wire has ty-wraps that fall at the end of the battery, 
cut them off.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/11/2019 9:00 PM, Brian Denley wrote:

I should also mention that the KAT2 is in the cover as well.

Brian
KB1VBF
Sent from my iPad


On Mar 11, 2019, at 7:33 PM, Brian Denley  wrote:

Is the KBT2 going to fit ok with the KIO2 in the cover as well?  It seems like 
the battery is pinching the KIO2 coax cable pretty well.


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Re: [Elecraft] ELECRAFT K2. Installing KBT2 with KIO2 in place

2019-03-11 Thread Brian Denley
I should also mention that the KAT2 is in the cover as well.

Brian 
KB1VBF
Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 11, 2019, at 7:33 PM, Brian Denley  wrote:
> 
> Is the KBT2 going to fit ok with the KIO2 in the cover as well?  It seems 
> like the battery is pinching the KIO2 coax cable pretty well.
> 
> Anyone else have both?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Brian 
> KB1VBF
> Sent from my iPad

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[Elecraft] KPA1500 - FAULT:LPF VMON

2019-03-11 Thread Hisashi T Fujinaka

What does this mean?

Other than that I can't transmit on FT8 right now? :)

I'm running KPA1500 MCU revision 02.09.

--
Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com K7EMI
BSEE + BSChem + BAEnglish + MSCS + $2.50 = coffee
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Re: [Elecraft] 80m KPA1500 High reflected power problems **SOLVED!**

2019-03-11 Thread Dave
Pete,

I had a similar problemon lower end of 80 meters. Fix for me was to ground 
outer jacket of all antenna cables where they enter the house. This eliminated 
common mode current coming into the shack on a second coax.

Check your RX antenna cable, which does not go through the RCS-12.

Dave wo2x

Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 11, 2019, at 6:13 PM, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
>> On 3/11/2019 1:40 PM, Peter Dougherty wrote:
>> I've got my bonding about as good as I can get it for the moment, although
>> I'm probably going to do some improvements this year. The lightning
>> arrestors are built in to the RCS-12 antenna switchbox (RCS-12L with the gas
>> discharge tubes), and everything's bonded at the base of the tower.
> The function of GDTs is to offer some protection of equipment in the event of 
> a strike. To do that, they must be close to the equipment, not at the tower. 
> Lightning can induce a lot of current on the coax between the tower and the 
> shack. I suggest that you add arrestors (including that vertical you use for 
> RX) where all of your coax enters the shack, bond them to your rod(s), and to 
> the shack bonding.  That's probably the missing bonding that I suspected! 
> Also, what about bonding to the power entry panel?
>> There's
>> a single feedline coming inside from that tower-mounted switchbox. Each
>> piece of radio gear and the computer inside is bonded by 1" braid going to a
>> copper bus. LAN and voice line comms are not, however the connection from
>> the pole is fiber, not copper so that's not likely a problem.
> Agreed.
>> The copper bus
>> inside is bonded to a ground rod outside the shack, which in turn is bonded
>> to the tower ground system.
>> 
>> The deficiency is that the copper bus is not grounded to the same point as
>> the tower, since the tower is about 50 feet away from the shack.
> This distance is borderline for bonding to the house.
>> I guess I
>> could run a 50 or 60' run of 2" strapping from the desk, through the floor,
>> across the crawlspace, and out the conduit to the tower, but I suspect that
>> might be more a hindrance than a help, quite honestly.
> 
> Agreed.
> 
> My shack is in what used to be a "mother-in-law" apartment of a detached 
> garage. I have a rod where power enters that building (fed from the house), a 
> half-perimeter #6 running around the building to the shack, where there are 
> five driven rods, all exposed to rainfall, and three rods along that 
> perimeter ground. The coax entry panels (added a second one when the first 
> filled up) on the wall of the shack are bonded down to the rods and up to the 
> ground bus for the equipment. They're also bonded to steel conduit that runs 
> back to the entry panel.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
> 
> 
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[Elecraft] Working Split with a Sub RX

2019-03-11 Thread William Levy
I have always thought the K3 did it backwards.
Before the K3 I had a transceiver and a seperate RX above it.
The Receiver listened to the DX station and the Transceiver would tune to
find who was working him at the moment. Then the pounce!
So with the K3 I don't use the SPLIT button. I use the Sub on the DX
station and I lock it and then I use the transceiver knob to find the guys
working split. If you have a P3 attached you can see it and the P3 will put
you there instantaneously.

I think that's a better way to work split. Would love to hear from those
that agree or disagree.

Sincerely Bill N2WL
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Re: [Elecraft] ELECRAFT K2. Installing KBT2 with KIO2 in place

2019-03-11 Thread Don Wilhelm

Brian,

I have both in my K2.  Ty-wrap the battery wires and the KIO2 cable 
together, but do not put any ty-wraps at the ends of the battery.


I also have the KAT2.  In a similar manner, ty-wrap the speaker wiring 
to the KAT2 cable, but not at the ends of the battery.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/11/2019 7:33 PM, Brian Denley wrote:

Is the KBT2 going to fit ok with the KIO2 in the cover as well?  It seems like 
the battery is pinching the KIO2 coax cable pretty well.


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Re: [Elecraft] ELECRAFT K2. Installing KBT2 with KIO2 in place

2019-03-11 Thread Jay Rutherford
I have both in my K2 with no problem. Well, I did until I removed the battery 
and its holder; too heavy and too old technology. I also have a digital card I 
got from Pauli, EA3BLQ (SK) that fits in as well. The KIO2 hangs on its plug, 
but stays in place.

73 
Jay K3BH

On Mon, Mar 11, 2019, at 19:33, Brian Denley wrote:
> Is the KBT2 going to fit ok with the KIO2 in the cover as well?  It 
> seems like the battery is pinching the KIO2 coax cable pretty well.
> 
> Anyone else have both?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Brian 
> KB1VBF
> Sent from my iPad
> __
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[Elecraft] ELECRAFT K2. Installing KBT2 with KIO2 in place

2019-03-11 Thread Brian Denley
Is the KBT2 going to fit ok with the KIO2 in the cover as well?  It seems like 
the battery is pinching the KIO2 coax cable pretty well.

Anyone else have both?

Thanks

Brian 
KB1VBF
Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] 1500 W is a lot of power

2019-03-11 Thread riese-k3djc


that would be the ARRL  handbook,,, it was for me

Bob K3DJC


On Mon, 11 Mar 2019 20:07:54 + (UTC) Al Lorona
 writes:
> About two months ago I posted that amateur radio needs a tutorial, 
> 'What to expect when you get an amplifier'. As we see again and 
> again here even basic things like cables, connectors, grounding, and 
> house wiring that work fine at 100 W may be inadequate for 1500 W. 
> We need guidance to study our stations piece by piece to ensure 
> those pieces can handle these power levels without failing or 
> causing problems.
> 
> Al  W6LX
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Re: [Elecraft] 1500 W is a lot of power

2019-03-11 Thread hawley, charles j jr
Put a ceramic .1 uF across the connector on the door opener where the wire to 
the button by the kitchen door comes from.

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Robert Sands 
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2019 4:32 PM
To: Bob McGraw K4TAX
Cc: Elecraft Discussion List
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 1500 W is a lot of power

my garage door opens with only 500 watts. fun reminder about RF capture.

On Mon, Mar 11, 2019, 2:20 PM Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:

> Three things:
>
> (a) ARRL Handbook - contains everything you need to know and then some.
>
> (b) ARRL Antenna book -  contains everything you need to know and then
> some.
>
> (c) Grounding and Bonding,  by Ward Silver, an ARRL Publication -
> MANDATORY reading.
>
> And of course one must visit the contents of these books frequently
> along with each manual that came with the product. RTFM
>
> 73
>
> Bob, K4TAX
>
>
> On 3/11/2019 3:07 PM, Al Lorona wrote:
> > About two months ago I posted that amateur radio needs a tutorial, 'What
> to expect when you get an amplifier'. As we see again and again here even
> basic things like cables, connectors, grounding, and house wiring that work
> fine at 100 W may be inadequate for 1500 W. We need guidance to study our
> stations piece by piece to ensure those pieces can handle these power
> levels without failing or causing problems.
> >
> > Al  W6LX
> > __
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Re: [Elecraft] 80m KPA1500 High reflected power problems **SOLVED!**

2019-03-11 Thread Jim Brown

On 3/11/2019 1:40 PM, Peter Dougherty wrote:

I've got my bonding about as good as I can get it for the moment, although
I'm probably going to do some improvements this year. The lightning
arrestors are built in to the RCS-12 antenna switchbox (RCS-12L with the gas
discharge tubes), and everything's bonded at the base of the tower.
The function of GDTs is to offer some protection of equipment in the 
event of a strike. To do that, they must be close to the equipment, not 
at the tower. Lightning can induce a lot of current on the coax between 
the tower and the shack. I suggest that you add arrestors (including 
that vertical you use for RX) where all of your coax enters the shack, 
bond them to your rod(s), and to the shack bonding.  That's probably the 
missing bonding that I suspected! Also, what about bonding to the power 
entry panel?

There's
a single feedline coming inside from that tower-mounted switchbox. Each
piece of radio gear and the computer inside is bonded by 1" braid going to a
copper bus. LAN and voice line comms are not, however the connection from
the pole is fiber, not copper so that's not likely a problem.

Agreed.

The copper bus
inside is bonded to a ground rod outside the shack, which in turn is bonded
to the tower ground system.

The deficiency is that the copper bus is not grounded to the same point as
the tower, since the tower is about 50 feet away from the shack.

This distance is borderline for bonding to the house.

I guess I
could run a 50 or 60' run of 2" strapping from the desk, through the floor,
across the crawlspace, and out the conduit to the tower, but I suspect that
might be more a hindrance than a help, quite honestly.


Agreed.

My shack is in what used to be a "mother-in-law" apartment of a detached 
garage. I have a rod where power enters that building (fed from the 
house), a half-perimeter #6 running around the building to the shack, 
where there are five driven rods, all exposed to rainfall, and three 
rods along that perimeter ground. The coax entry panels (added a second 
one when the first filled up) on the wall of the shack are bonded down 
to the rods and up to the ground bus for the equipment. They're also 
bonded to steel conduit that runs back to the entry panel.


73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] 1500 W is a lot of power

2019-03-11 Thread Fred Jensen
The Internet, HTML, Email, and Google have made finding answers much 
easier.  Unfortunately, for every increment of increase in use of these 
sources, there has been a corresponding decrease in trips to the 
bookshelf.  There has also been a corresponding decrease in the ICFTO 
Coefficient ["I Can Figure This Out"] and some posts for help are 
beginning to approximate, "My KPA500 quit.  What's wrong?"


A side benefit of the books, at least for me, is that I inevitably run 
across something I didn't know while researching what I walked to the 
bookshelf for in the first place.


73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 3/11/2019 2:19 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:

Three things:

(a) ARRL Handbook - contains everything you need to know and then some.

(b) ARRL Antenna book -  contains everything you need to know and then 
some.


(c) Grounding and Bonding,  by Ward Silver, an ARRL Publication - 
MANDATORY reading.


And of course one must visit the contents of these books frequently 
along with each manual that came with the product. RTFM


73

Bob, K4TAX


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Re: [Elecraft] 1500 W is a lot of power

2019-03-11 Thread Robert Sands
my garage door opens with only 500 watts. fun reminder about RF capture.

On Mon, Mar 11, 2019, 2:20 PM Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:

> Three things:
>
> (a) ARRL Handbook - contains everything you need to know and then some.
>
> (b) ARRL Antenna book -  contains everything you need to know and then
> some.
>
> (c) Grounding and Bonding,  by Ward Silver, an ARRL Publication -
> MANDATORY reading.
>
> And of course one must visit the contents of these books frequently
> along with each manual that came with the product. RTFM
>
> 73
>
> Bob, K4TAX
>
>
> On 3/11/2019 3:07 PM, Al Lorona wrote:
> > About two months ago I posted that amateur radio needs a tutorial, 'What
> to expect when you get an amplifier'. As we see again and again here even
> basic things like cables, connectors, grounding, and house wiring that work
> fine at 100 W may be inadequate for 1500 W. We need guidance to study our
> stations piece by piece to ensure those pieces can handle these power
> levels without failing or causing problems.
> >
> > Al  W6LX
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
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Re: [Elecraft] 1500 W is a lot of power

2019-03-11 Thread Bob McGraw K4TAX

Three things:

(a) ARRL Handbook - contains everything you need to know and then some.

(b) ARRL Antenna book -  contains everything you need to know and then 
some.


(c) Grounding and Bonding,  by Ward Silver, an ARRL Publication - 
MANDATORY reading.


And of course one must visit the contents of these books frequently 
along with each manual that came with the product. RTFM


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 3/11/2019 3:07 PM, Al Lorona wrote:

About two months ago I posted that amateur radio needs a tutorial, 'What to 
expect when you get an amplifier'. As we see again and again here even basic 
things like cables, connectors, grounding, and house wiring that work fine at 
100 W may be inadequate for 1500 W. We need guidance to study our stations 
piece by piece to ensure those pieces can handle these power levels without 
failing or causing problems.

Al  W6LX
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Re: [Elecraft] 1500 W is a lot of power

2019-03-11 Thread Tom Doligalski via Elecraft
Anyone who writes one should include a note about replacing older GFCI breakers 
(ARRL website is quite helpful). 

Tom W4KX

Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 11, 2019, at 4:07 PM, Al Lorona  wrote:
> 
> About two months ago I posted that amateur radio needs a tutorial, 'What to 
> expect when you get an amplifier'. As we see again and again here even basic 
> things like cables, connectors, grounding, and house wiring that work fine at 
> 100 W may be inadequate for 1500 W. We need guidance to study our stations 
> piece by piece to ensure those pieces can handle these power levels without 
> failing or causing problems.
> 
> Al  W6LX
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] 80m KPA1500 High reflected power problems **SOLVED!**

2019-03-11 Thread Peter Dougherty
I've got my bonding about as good as I can get it for the moment, although
I'm probably going to do some improvements this year. The lightning
arrestors are built in to the RCS-12 antenna switchbox (RCS-12L with the gas
discharge tubes), and everything's bonded at the base of the tower. There's
a single feedline coming inside from that tower-mounted switchbox. Each
piece of radio gear and the computer inside is bonded by 1" braid going to a
copper bus. LAN and voice line comms are not, however the connection from
the pole is fiber, not copper so that's not likely a problem. The copper bus
inside is bonded to a ground rod outside the shack, which in turn is bonded
to the tower ground system.

The deficiency is that the copper bus is not grounded to the same point as
the tower, since the tower is about 50 feet away from the shack. I guess I
could run a 50 or 60' run of 2" strapping from the desk, through the floor,
across the crawlspace, and out the conduit to the tower, but I suspect that
might be more a hindrance than a help, quite honestly.

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Jim Brown
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2019 2:18 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 80m KPA1500 High reflected power problems
**SOLVED!**

On 3/10/2019 10:33 PM, Peter Dougherty wrote:
> I have a 30 foot vertical ground-plane style antenna that I use for
diversity RX on 40 and 80, which was connected to the AUX antenna port. This
was being overloaded by the QRO power from the TX antenna feedpoints just a
few feet laterally and 40-50' higher vertically. As soon as I disconnected
this antenna the problem went away.

Hi Peter,

It sounds to me like your station (and maybe your home) is not properly
bonded. All of your feedlines SHOULD be bonded to a common ground at
lightning arrestors where they enter your shack, all the equipment in your
shack SHOULD be bonded together and to all of the grounds in your home
including that one, power, telco, CATV, and satellite. If you've done this,
disconnecting one of the antennas from your rig should not change anything
on the transmit side -- the only change should be overload of the second RX
by that antenna.

Two good references on grounding and bonding. One is N0AX's recent ARRL book
on the topic. The second is the set of slides for talks I've done at
Pacificon and Visalia on the topic.

http://k9yc.com/GroundingAndAudio.pdf

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] 1500 W is a lot of power

2019-03-11 Thread Robert G Strickland via Elecraft

There's also the traditional maxim: Get an amp, meet the neighbors.
...robert

On 3/11/2019 20:07, Al Lorona wrote:

About two months ago I posted that amateur radio needs a tutorial, 'What to 
expect when you get an amplifier'. As we see again and again here even basic 
things like cables, connectors, grounding, and house wiring that work fine at 
100 W may be inadequate for 1500 W. We need guidance to study our stations 
piece by piece to ensure those pieces can handle these power levels without 
failing or causing problems.

Al  W6LX
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--
Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
rc...@verizon.net.usa
Syracuse, New York, USA
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Spontaneous HI CUR, audio reduction in RX mode - UPDATE

2019-03-11 Thread Nr4c
If the “723” doesn’t fix it, call Astron. They don’t have much of a customer 
service department, but the guy who answers the phone will sell you a 
replacement “control board” for $20.00 plus $7.00 shipping. Assuming the diodes 
and caps are still good. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Mar 11, 2019, at 8:04 AM, Charlie T  wrote:
> 
> It would also be very helpful if you can find the cause of the problem
> inside the RS-20A.
> There's probably more of those particular supplies and their family than any
> others.
> I'm fairly sure they use the old reliable "723" regulator that has been
> around since it seems, Hertz experimented with sparks.
> 
> As an old sage used to offer a useful piece of advice."It's probably a
> resistor or a capacitor or something".
> 
> 73, Charlie k3ICH
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
> Behalf Of Mike K8CN
> Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 8:25 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Spontaneous HI CUR, audio reduction in RX mode
> - UPDATE
> 
> I may have found the cause of the anomalous HI CUR warning in **receive**
> mode, thanks to my big orange Maine coon cat, Mr. Opie.  In rubbing his chin
> on the VFO B knob while I was listening last night, he rotated the control
> to the 12V DC bus voltage display, which I then noticed was oscillating
> between 13.6 V and 12.7 V.  When I checked the DC bus current display, it
> was oscillating between 0.4 A and 2.1 A - clearly something was amiss. 
> 
> Tonight I checked the terminal voltage on my Astron RS20-A linear supply,
> and found it to be stable at 13.7 V with no load (K3 turned off), but then
> it dropped to 13.4 V with the K3 'on' in receive mode.  I again checked the
> K3's internal volt/ammeter readings and found the same periodic oscillation
> in each one.  Curious to know if the oscillation was due to an interaction
> with the supply regulator, I swapped out the RS20-A for my Astron SS-30
> SMPS, which I normally use with my K2/100 setup.
> 
> Lo and behold, the DC bus oscillations ceased!  
> 
> I have not yet spent enough time listening using the alternate power supply
> to know if the HI CUR warnings will also cease, but will do so over the
> coming week. Fortunately, I don't have to watch the K3 display because the
> HI CUR condition also reduces headphone audio substantially, which gets my
> immediate attention.
> 
> Kudos to Mr. Opie for his uncanny sense of what might reveal a potential
> cause of the spontaneous HI CUR warnings in receive mode.
> 
> 73,
> Mike, K8CN
> 
> 
> 
> --
> Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] 80m KPA1500 High reflected power problems **SOLVED!**

2019-03-11 Thread Peter Dougherty
I have that exact front-end protector on the main RX line from the K9AY, but
I didn't have it on the AUX antenna. I will now, obviously.

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of j...@kk9a.com
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2019 1:58 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 80m KPA1500 High reflected power problems
**SOLVED!**

I am not sure how a second antenna effects the amplifier, I believe that the
K3(S) has a safeguard from some overload conditions. If your RX antenna is
close to your TX and you run HP, I would protect your transceiver from
overload by either shorting the RX feedline during TX or with a protector
such as this one:  
https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/dxe-rg-5000

John KK9A




PETER DOUGHERTY W2IRT wrote:

-

Hi folks,
FOUND THE PROBLEMMaybe??

I have a 30 foot vertical ground-plane style antenna that I use for
diversity RX on 40 and 80, which was connected to the AUX antenna port. 
This was being overloaded by the QRO power from the TX antenna feedpoints
just a few feet laterally and 40-50' higher vertically. As soon as I
disconnected this antenna the problem went away.

NOTE that the problem only occurred on the lower CW portions of both 80 *and
40*, as I found out tonight. In the SSB sections, even on CW transmit, there
were no problems. But as I said, disconnecting the diversity AUX antenna
solved the High SWR amp fault.

So now, the big question, is there some form of filtering within the K3s to
disable receive on the AUX line during transmit, or do I have to look into a
second "front end protector" device as I have on my K9AY loop connected to
the RX IN port. Or perhaps some other valid solution?

At least I'm glad I finally have full operation back on 40 and 80!
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3S] sub receiver filter recommendation

2019-03-11 Thread Robert G Strickland via Elecraft
Thanks to all respondents. To clear up one point... "Migration," as per 
Elecraft, means to transfer whatever components in a K3 that will work 
to a K3S. In my case, just filters. I end up with a new K3S and the 
original K3, ie two radios. I have never operated SO2V in a contest. So, 
my curiosity is focused on which CW filter in the sub-receiver, if any, 
works best in the SO2V contest environment. With the K3, I have usually 
run with the 500cps filter, so I'm guessing there should be no 
significant difference when operating SO2V. But, I want(ed) to get a 
feel for this mode from others who have used it in contests. The 
Elecraft 400cps filter seems to be slightly preferable to the 500cps 
filter for reasons cited. Diversity is not an option here [limited 
antennas]. Again thanks.

...robert

On 3/11/2019 01:59, Robert G Strickland via Elecraft wrote:

I am migrating my K3 [Ser# 6232] to a K3S with a sub-receiver. In the
K3S main receiver I will have the following crystal filters from the K3:

2.8Kc 8-pole Elecraft
1.9kc ?-pole Elecraft
0.5kc 8-pole Inrad
0.2kc 5-pole Elecraft

I operate almost exclusively CW in contests and DX chasing. in contests,
I anticipate using the sub-receiver in a SO2V arrangement, the main
receiver in S and the sub- in running. Given this operating
arrangement, which single crystal filter in the sub- would be "best?" I
understand that personal preferences play a big part in choosing a
filter, yet I'm wondering if there's a broad consensus in the filter
width that most folks choose, most of the time, in this application.
Thanks in advance for any and all opinions and advice.

..robert


--
Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
rc...@verizon.net.usa
Syracuse, New York, USA
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[Elecraft] 1500 W is a lot of power

2019-03-11 Thread Al Lorona
About two months ago I posted that amateur radio needs a tutorial, 'What to 
expect when you get an amplifier'. As we see again and again here even basic 
things like cables, connectors, grounding, and house wiring that work fine at 
100 W may be inadequate for 1500 W. We need guidance to study our stations 
piece by piece to ensure those pieces can handle these power levels without 
failing or causing problems.

Al  W6LX
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Re: [Elecraft] 80m KPA1500 High reflected power problems **SOLVED!**

2019-03-11 Thread Jim Brown

On 3/10/2019 10:33 PM, Peter Dougherty wrote:

I have a 30 foot vertical ground-plane style antenna that I use for diversity 
RX on 40 and 80, which was connected to the AUX antenna port. This was being 
overloaded by the QRO power from the TX antenna feedpoints just a few feet 
laterally and 40-50' higher vertically. As soon as I disconnected this antenna 
the problem went away.


Hi Peter,

It sounds to me like your station (and maybe your home) is not properly 
bonded. All of your feedlines SHOULD be bonded to a common ground at 
lightning arrestors where they enter your shack, all the equipment in 
your shack SHOULD be bonded together and to all of the grounds in your 
home including that one, power, telco, CATV, and satellite. If you've 
done this, disconnecting one of the antennas from your rig should not 
change anything on the transmit side -- the only change should be 
overload of the second RX by that antenna.


Two good references on grounding and bonding. One is N0AX's recent ARRL 
book on the topic. The second is the set of slides for talks I've done 
at Pacificon and Visalia on the topic.


http://k9yc.com/GroundingAndAudio.pdf

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] 80m KPA1500 High reflected power problems **SOLVED!**

2019-03-11 Thread john
I am not sure how a second antenna effects the amplifier, I believe that 
the K3(S) has a safeguard from some overload conditions. If your RX 
antenna is close to your TX and you run HP, I would protect your 
transceiver from overload by either shorting the RX feedline during TX 
or with a protector such as this one:  
https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/dxe-rg-5000


John KK9A




PETER DOUGHERTY W2IRT wrote:

-

Hi folks,
FOUND THE PROBLEMMaybe??

I have a 30 foot vertical ground-plane style antenna that I use for 
diversity RX on 40 and 80, which was connected to the AUX antenna port. 
This was being overloaded by the QRO power from the TX antenna 
feedpoints just a few feet laterally and 40-50' higher vertically. As 
soon as I disconnected this antenna the problem went away.


NOTE that the problem only occurred on the lower CW portions of both 80 
*and 40*, as I found out tonight. In the SSB sections, even on CW 
transmit, there were no problems. But as I said, disconnecting the 
diversity AUX antenna solved the High SWR amp fault.


So now, the big question, is there some form of filtering within the K3s 
to disable receive on the AUX line during transmit, or do I have to look 
into a second "front end protector" device as I have on my K9AY loop 
connected to the RX IN port. Or perhaps some other valid solution?


At least I'm glad I finally have full operation back on 40 and 80!
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Re: [Elecraft] K2: Flaky 160M switching-solved?

2019-03-11 Thread Jim KO5V
As a follow-up, I've either fixed the problem, or it's become a lot more (or 
less?) 
intermittent...

Twice, I re-touched all of the solder joints involved with the 160M option, 
both on 
the 160M board and the K2's RF board - it never helped. Tapping on the 160M 
board's 
mounting screw, or the left side panel at the rear 2d connector would cause the 
band
to work.

J14 is a tall header that connects the 160M board to the K2. It is made up of 
two 
parts, and seems a bit fragile. I replaced it, and so far 160M has not failed 
again.
 
Also, I had tightened the BNC antenna connector against the heat sink panel. 
That was 
apparently flexing the RF board. My guess is that J14 had an internal failure 
because 
of that, so I left the BNC loose on the heat sink panel.

We'll see if everything continues to function.

Again, thanks for the help! 73,

Jim KO5V

-Original Message--
>From: Don Wilhelm 
>Sent: Mar 2, 2019 5:36 PM
>To: Jim KO5V , Elecraft List 
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2: Flaky 160M switching
>
>Jim,
>
>Unplug the K160RX and then plug it back in to wipe any oxidation off the 
>pins.  That may or may not help, but is one easy thing to do "just in case".
>
>73,
>Don W3FPR
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Spontaneous HI CUR, audio reduction in RX mode - UPDATE

2019-03-11 Thread Charlie T
It would also be very helpful if you can find the cause of the problem
inside the RS-20A.
There's probably more of those particular supplies and their family than any
others.
I'm fairly sure they use the old reliable "723" regulator that has been
around since it seems, Hertz experimented with sparks.

As an old sage used to offer a useful piece of advice."It's probably a
resistor or a capacitor or something".

73, Charlie k3ICH




-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Mike K8CN
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 8:25 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Spontaneous HI CUR, audio reduction in RX mode
- UPDATE

I may have found the cause of the anomalous HI CUR warning in **receive**
mode, thanks to my big orange Maine coon cat, Mr. Opie.  In rubbing his chin
on the VFO B knob while I was listening last night, he rotated the control
to the 12V DC bus voltage display, which I then noticed was oscillating
between 13.6 V and 12.7 V.  When I checked the DC bus current display, it
was oscillating between 0.4 A and 2.1 A - clearly something was amiss. 

Tonight I checked the terminal voltage on my Astron RS20-A linear supply,
and found it to be stable at 13.7 V with no load (K3 turned off), but then
it dropped to 13.4 V with the K3 'on' in receive mode.  I again checked the
K3's internal volt/ammeter readings and found the same periodic oscillation
in each one.  Curious to know if the oscillation was due to an interaction
with the supply regulator, I swapped out the RS20-A for my Astron SS-30
SMPS, which I normally use with my K2/100 setup.

Lo and behold, the DC bus oscillations ceased!  

I have not yet spent enough time listening using the alternate power supply
to know if the HI CUR warnings will also cease, but will do so over the
coming week. Fortunately, I don't have to watch the K3 display because the
HI CUR condition also reduces headphone audio substantially, which gets my
immediate attention.

Kudos to Mr. Opie for his uncanny sense of what might reveal a potential
cause of the spontaneous HI CUR warnings in receive mode.

73,
Mike, K8CN



--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Temp. Cal. Routine Issue Revisited

2019-03-11 Thread Brian Waterworth
Hi Rick,

I did not have the same results as you have described using a hair dryer.
But, I didn't get the results I wanted or expected using a hair dryer based
on process documented in the Elecraft manual.  If you can find an
incandescent light bulb (60w is fine) and try that instead of the hair
dryer, I wonder if your results will be different.  I had much better
results with the light bulb approach than the hair dryer when doing the KX3
temp compensation procedure.

regards,
Brian
VE3IBW

On Mon, Mar 11, 2019 at 11:15 AM rick jones via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

> So I'm having the same problem as I've read in a few past posts (with no
> resolution). At Approx. 40DegC I lose the signal in the speaker, the S
> meter reads no signal, and the F value starts to wildly swing in the 700
> range. I'm directing my hot air at the heatsink for what that's worth. I
> had it increasing at about 1degC per 1-2 minutes as instructed. I can't
> imagine the procedure is still going ok given those symptoms but maybe it
> is. Any thoughts? Thanks.
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[Elecraft] KX3 Temp. Cal. Routine Issue Revisited

2019-03-11 Thread rick jones via Elecraft
So I'm having the same problem as I've read in a few past posts (with no 
resolution). At Approx. 40DegC I lose the signal in the speaker, the S meter 
reads no signal, and the F value starts to wildly swing in the 700 range. I'm 
directing my hot air at the heatsink for what that's worth. I had it increasing 
at about 1degC per 1-2 minutes as instructed. I can't imagine the procedure is 
still going ok given those symptoms but maybe it is. Any thoughts? Thanks.
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 SPAN Instability

2019-03-11 Thread Dave Cole (NK7Z)

Thanks for the info sir!

73s and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
Award Manager, 30MDG Grid Awards
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL OOC for Oregon

On 3/10/19 12:01 PM, Victor Rosenthal 4X6GP wrote:

No, the save/restore restored everything to how it was before.


73,
Victor, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
Formerly K2VCO
CWops no. 5
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
On 10 Mar 2019 20:57, Dave Cole (NK7Z) wrote:
I have been thinking of that.  When you did it, was your P3 revocered 
to the same exact setup as when you saved the config file?  Did you 
have to resetup anything else?


73s and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
Award Manager, 30MDG Grid Awards
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL OOC for Oregon

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[Elecraft] K2: Looking for two kits for the K2

2019-03-11 Thread John Wingard
I am looking for two kits for the K2...the K6XX zero-beat indicator kit for
the K2 and the Rework Eliminators internal mic adapter kit for the K2. If
anyone has either of these kits that are excess to their needs, please
contact me off list.

73, John WB4GLJ
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Re: [Elecraft] ALC

2019-03-11 Thread Jim Ragsdale
Does anyone have a built or un-built KSB2 SSB Option for K2 they would 
sell? Please reply off-reflector to j...@w5la.net.


73, Jim W5LA

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Re: [Elecraft] 80m KPA1500 High reflected power problems **SOLVED!**

2019-03-11 Thread Peter Dougherty
Well, there's one final, further item to add to this. I've almost certainly 
destroyed my sub receiver. It's not completely deaf, but very, very, very close 
to it. Signals that are in the noise on VFO-B are S9 on VFO-A on the same 
frequency.

Anything I can do to test this out? With Bouvet coming soon (hopefully) I'm 
really hoping to have a working radio to work this ultra rare one. The risk of 
another 4 or 5 weeks of down time is very depressing at this stage.

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: Peter Dougherty  
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2019 1:33 AM
To: 'elecraft@mailman.qth.net' 
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] 80m KPA1500 High reflected power problems **SOLVED!**

Hi folks,
FOUND THE PROBLEMMaybe??

I have a 30 foot vertical ground-plane style antenna that I use for diversity 
RX on 40 and 80, which was connected to the AUX antenna port. This was being 
overloaded by the QRO power from the TX antenna feedpoints just a few feet 
laterally and 40-50' higher vertically. As soon as I disconnected this antenna 
the problem went away.

NOTE that the problem only occurred on the lower CW portions of both 80 *and 
40*, as I found out tonight. In the SSB sections, even on CW transmit, there 
were no problems. But as I said, disconnecting the diversity AUX antenna solved 
the High SWR amp fault.

So now, the big question, is there some form of filtering within the K3s to 
disable receive on the AUX line during transmit, or do I have to look into a 
second "front end protector" device as I have on my K9AY loop connected to the 
RX IN port. Or perhaps some other valid solution?

At least I'm glad I finally have full operation back on 40 and 80!

 - pjd


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