Re: [Elecraft] Straight Key on my K2
Try the Vibroplex Code-Mite, looks like a toy but it's not, it's a nice solid little key. 73 de NS6Y. Alex. On Jul 28, 2006, at 10:50 AM, David Pratt wrote: In a recent message, Tom Althoff [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote ... I connected a diode in series with the tip and a diode in series with the ring across the paddle mini-plug and out to my sparkless Navy straight key. So can send with the paddle and the straight key just by moving my hand from device to the other. I am pleased to learn that you have had success in doing this, Tom. I am afraid that in trying to do this I get alternate dots and dashes occasionally when pressing the straight key. Following suggestions on here, I have even tried using matched Schottky diodes but still get the trouble. I find that the only sure way of sending using the straight key is to change the menu to InP HAnd 73 de David G4DMP ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Difference between PN2222 and PN2222A?
My understanding is the A is the military spec version. Maybe I'm wrong, but it's got to be something like that, either that or a slightly later version.. you might try googling a bit, spec sheets for common parts can be pretty easy to find, I'm always looking up the simple stuff myself. 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jul 25, 2006, at 11:28 AM, Ben Hofmann KB1AHR wrote: What's the difference between a PN and a PNA transistor? When used as a switch, can a PN be used as a substitute for the PNA? Thanks. -Ben K1NT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Grumman (was Weller)
It means you got to play with the GOOD stuff! 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jul 23, 2006, at 6:55 AM, Vin Cortina wrote: I was doing field service on what we called Test and Measurement equipment, and I was specializing in microwave network analysis. Regards, Vin KR2F K1-4 s/n:1977 KX1 s/n:1476 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Smoked my K1
I'd do my troubleshooting with an ohmmeter FIRST. 73 de alex NS6Y On Jul 23, 2006, at 4:58 PM, Rick Tavan N6XI wrote: Hi, guys. I smoked my K1 by plugging in the wrong DC cable. It came from a 35V supply instead of 12V. The radio worked for about 15 seconds, then died with an odor of burning components; no visible smoke. Realizing what I had done, I connected it to 12V to troubleshoot. I see only 1Hz pops of (low) voltage on the 12V line using an analog meter. I hear a weak 1 Hz click from the speaker, see nothing on the display. I removed all daughter boards. I see no visibly burned components. I removed and checked C35 and it still acts like a capacitor. I measured 4 ohms on the 12V line which seemed low to me. I removed U5 and saw the same 4 ohms. I reinstalled C35 and U5 (although I suppose U5 could be the victim/culprit itself) and, per the troubleshooting suggestions in the manual, measured 5.5K on the 8V line and 670 ohms on the 6V line. RF-Q7 tab measures 3.5 ohms to ground. No idea what these resistances should be. Should I just replace U5? Look elsewhere? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks 73, /Rick N6XI ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Soldering Stations Question
OK here's what you do. You get the handpiece to the Weller WTCPT and you just run it on DC. The base unit is just a transformer. Actually maybe not DC, run the handpiece on AC, use a transformer to step down your wall voltage and there you go. The temp control is all in the handpiece with these. Yes, Curie was a genius. Goot makes good (or goot?) stuff. Hakko is also good. For desoldering, I just use braid these days. I know enough about Pace desoldering stuff to go work for 'em rebuilding their stations, but I just use braid. 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jul 21, 2006, at 10:56 PM, Wyn Hughes wrote: I agee with these comments. Weller has a good reputation but is also a very high end product price wise here in Hong Kong. Hakko, Goot, though 'made in Japan' are similar and also made with outsourced parts and probbaly labour. A Hakko 936 runs about $150 and a Hakko 808 desoldering gun around $200 here. Importing from the US is not very satisfactory, as local voltage here is 220VAC I bought a Gordak 936A (China made clone of the Hako 936ESD) to build my K2. Cost $35. It worked perfectly satisfactorily although I did buy a Hakko 'made in Japan' steel tip, 1.6mm for the job. I used it for every solder joint in the K2, the tip still has llife left in it. I treated it to the recommended Kester 44 solder, which I had to import from Mouser, as I would be reluctant to trust 'brand x' China made solder at this stage of their development, warranty issues apart. Also have a Aoyue 936A which is similar. I also have a Aoyue 808 desoldering gun (China clone of the Hakko 808, cost about $55). That worked ok too using the standard (China made alloy) nozzle, as the Hakko nozzles were $25 here which I felt was too expensive. As things turned out I only had to use the desoldering gun a couple of times. Maybe it will fall apart in due time but it has served its purpose to date. The China made products seem reasonably well made and are good value for money out in thispart of the world. I have a Aoyue 474 desoldering station (Hakko 474 clone) waiting in the wings unused for that time! Wyn, VR2AX Weller is good but not made in the USA. At least not anymore. Components are made in China and Mexico like everything else. Get whatever you are comfortable with. Many soldering stations are overkill for most hobbiest. Pace makes a nice small soldering station called the Heatwise and like the METCAL uses the Currie effect to maintain very stable tip temp regardless of thermal load. Bottom line is to get something that your comfortable with and won't empty your wallet. Robert VE3RPF ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Soldering Stations Question
This is why you need to get a Weller WTCPT which still uses real copper, iron-clad tips and is made in the USA. I swear by my Weller, life is too short for junky irons! 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jul 21, 2006, at 11:55 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I recently purchased a Xytronic 379 Auto-Temp soldering station. I also purchased several optional tips.I was mainly interested in the XY-B03 fine tip for circuit boards with tiny pads such as the K2 SSB board.I've found the long Xy-B03 fine tip to be worthless due to it being made out of hollow steel that wont hold the heat. The all steel tip that came with the iron is just fine if your careful in tight areas. So my question is: Do any of the soldering stations currently being sold come with real brass or copper tips? I'm not talking about the soldering stations purchased 10 yrs ago. I mean the current production irons. Most - if not all - of todays offerings appear to be made in China and my guess is all them have gone to 100% steel tips. The irons I have used previously from 25 yrs ago had brass or copper alloy which have a protective layer of iron on the tip. And they hold the heat perfectly, unlike these new all steel tips. Even though this Xytronic 379 has auto temp control, it cant keep up with the heat loss of the B03 hollow tip and I've found it completely useless for even a tinniest of pads. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Soldering Stations Question
I'm glad you brought that up since I love the Metcal. You can get decent Metcal stuff on Ebay. If I had to choose one iron, and I did, since I had a Metcal too, I'd choose my Weller. There's another brand, Japanese, called Hakko and imitators of the Weller stuff but that's ok they're good. The Weller WTCPT is the sweet spot, the most high quality iron for the cheapest price, spend $120 and you have a good soldering iron for life. Mine is USA-made, as far as I can tell the tips are, I don't know about the new stuff, they'd better not be making it in China but you'd better check the label if you want to avoid paying the people putting us out of work. Yes, the Weller Magnetrol system uses the Curie effect, it's really neat! 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jul 21, 2006, at 4:03 PM, Robert wrote: I use a METCAL soldering station and a METCAL Desoldering station. This is a real high end and expensive set-up and not for everyone. Weller is good but not made in the USA. At least not anymore. Components are made in China and Mexico like everything else. Get whatever you are comfortable with. Many soldering stations are overkill for most hobbiest. Pace makes a nice small soldering station called the Heatwise and like the METCAL uses the Currie effect to maintain very stable tip temp regardless of thermal load. Bottom line is to get something that your comfortable with and won't empty your wallet. Robert VE3RPF ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Passed Amateur Extra Class License Today
Congrats to the new Extra! I wish I'd done my 20WPM Extra back in the early 80s when I had all that momentum built up from getting my Advanced. I really wish I'd done it now that I hear you can get an FCC 2nd class radiotelegraph license and get credit for the code part if you're a 20WPM Extra. Instead, if I want to do this, I have to study like mad and do the actually rather harder FCC commercial test. 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jul 16, 2006, at 5:56 PM, Vin Cortina wrote: Congratulations Lynn!!! Good for you, we look forward to seeing you in the Extra subband. Of course now we'll have to teach you the secret handshake... :) I was one of the last 20 WPM extras, but hey, if you want to learn it, you will. See you on the bands. Vin KR2F k1-4 s/n:1977 KX1 s/n:1476 (under construction) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] N-Gen Output
I seem to remember not being able to see much more than a hint that a signal was there on my scope, but on a spectrum analyzer, which is essentially a receiver, I was able to see it just fine - adjust it just right, and the output looked like a fuzzy little caterpillar! 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jul 17, 2006, at 4:04 AM, Stewart Baker wrote: Hi Kevin, If your calculations are right ( and I have not checked them) then 56 uV would be very difficult, if not impossible to see on the average oscilloscope. On most oscilloscopes the maximum Y axis sensitivity is 1 to 5mV/ cm, so you are trying to measure something approx 100 times smaller. 73 Stewart G3RXQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] New Member
Fine Business! A lot of us don't have time to build our own, Welcome! 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jul 12, 2006, at 8:16 PM, Harry wrote: Just aquired a K2 with 100 watts with tuner Just joined the list. any other sites that would be good to Join . 73 Harry Ve7JHParksville BC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 problem
I'm working on one too, and the flat sides are printed on the board but you have to look close and use some imagination. There are also photos of the boards finished in the back of the manual. There's also looking at the schematic and seeing what connects to what, and finally some have built K1's and put photos of the boards on the net, you can look for that kind of info. Hope this is helpful, 73 de Alex NS6Y On Jul 12, 2006, at 4:46 PM, Dr. Dan Swartling wrote: I am half-way through building my K1 # and have hit a stumbling block. How are trimmer caps C13 and C20 installed? On the revision E board it is not obvious (to me) which way to orient the flat side. Dan -- To make a difference, one must first be different. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 vs. FT-817
I am very happy to announce that I am apparently all wet! From the sound of it, the KX1 I built a couple of years ago had some undocumented features built in like perhaps the partial deafness problem. Some serious testing on my part would have sniffed this out and caused me to hunt down and solve the problem. I am working on a K1 now, and when it's done I'll make sure it's recieving the way it ought to. 73 de Alex NS6Y On Jul 10, 2006, at 1:56 PM, ron wrote: I always thought them KX1's were far superior to them 817's! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Alignment tools
There are some ceramic tools out there, under the name pro'skit or pros'kit. Made in Japan, good stuff! I think radioshack.com has 'em. 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jul 7, 2006, at 12:16 PM, Steve Knapp wrote: When trying to tweak my KX1 I noticed that most of my plastic tools were too weak, and metal tools changed the setting. Looking around I found a few that seemed interesting. http://cgi.ebay.com/IF-Transformer-Alignment-Tool-Kit-HAM-antique- Radio_W0QQitemZ140002425458QQihZ004QQcategoryZ4671QQssPageNameZWDVWQQr dZ1QQcmdZViewItem http://www.wihatools.com/270serie.htm Having had good luck with Wiha, I bought one of those. We'll see how it works out. FYI! Steve K. KA9QOA. -- Steve Knapp ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 vs. FT-817
With all this talk of nearly-deaf KX1's I'm beginning to wonder. Which has a better reciever, the KX1 or the Yaesu FT-817? Because in my experience, the FT-817 is Much better. Could I have built my KX1 with the deafness problem and not known it? 73 de Alex NS6Y ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] plexiglass
In my reading about green radios I can't afford (but want anyway) and in various readings I've heard that detecting the 455-kHz LO of a superhet isn't all that hard, and that for instance in countries that require a radio license, they use such techniques to check if people in their houses have radios (or TVs) that they're not on record of having licenses for! And, in a lot of the military radios, the shielding is VERY good so that detection is much harder to do. 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jul 9, 2006, at 5:29 AM, Gil Stacy wrote: But the German radar detector receivers used supperregenerative detectors,which radiate a weak signal. Don't know whether this is apocryphal or not, but I had heard from a former USAF EW tech that the VC in Viet Nam in the early days figured out how to make U.S. field superhets' LO howl , giving away qth, causing some units to switch to TRF technology. Gil NN4CW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] plexiglass
Aha that sounds like Pycrete! Fine wood fibers, mixed with water to make a slurry, and frozen. Interesting stuff, read up on it if you want to be entertained! 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jul 9, 2006, at 7:26 AM, J F wrote: Didn't the allies look into building aircraft carriers from ice? if you had impregnated the ice with say fine copper mess, would it not also be somewhat of an RF sheild... or maybe just a good ground plane for the minature 160M vertical ummm I've said too much already ;o) 73, Julius n2wn Some nice QRP signals on 40M SSB during IARU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Bands?
Thanks for posting this, since I've been really itching to know if the K2 can be used to listen to some of that interesting other stuff out there. Thanks! 73 de Alex NS6Y See http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/K2_GenCov.htm for one example. Remember every rig will be slightly different though. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] FD wipe-out-need advice on the Iambic key
I myself regret not sticking around during FD to work code, I seem to be good for about 13WPM and I thought that was too slow, but frankly, sub-10 making contacts is better than 13 and staying home! And so what if I flubbed a few calls, including my own? We'd have muddled through. This FD, my first, was not spectacularly fun for me, but wait'll next year. ! 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jun 28, 2006, at 3:05 PM, William Moore wrote: 10 wpm isn't terribly fast for Field Day. Typical speed is closer to 15-30 wpm. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Solar Panels
I just got a copy of the ARRL book Emergency Power and I am impressed! That stuff may be old hat to some of you, but I'm a real noob at this and it looks very good for getting up to speed. Lots of basic stuff like Don't let shadows fall across your panel and more advanced stuff like charge controller theory and schematics. Let me get my k1 done then I may well build or at least buy a no- frills K2. 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jul 3, 2006, at 3:23 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Mon, 3 Jul 2006 14:38:59 -0500 Don Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I sell the low power solar controller kits. Just want to add a testimonial for Don's solar charge controller kits. We used one at Field Day to run a 12 A-hr battery (RS Jump Starter) with a 15 watt panel for the K2, and also with a set of three 15 watt panels and a 100 A-hr marine battery to run the inverter for the logging computer - gotta figure out a better, more QRP friendly logger - maybe cellulose fiber graphic panels coupled with a manually vectored graphite character generator - I'm told they support the full ASCII set and have integrated error correction. Anyway, Don's kit are great - good parts, good boards, and good instructions, at a good price... ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Antennas for KX-1
(1) Wire up in a tree, (2) Pac-12. Between those two, you're taken care of with the KX1. 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jun 29, 2006, at 6:20 PM, J. Coote wrote: I've been following the 4-band antennas for KX-1 thread. Interesting and a real challenge for field operations. K2HYD's idea of a 51 foot antenna and counterpoise was helpful. Some additional thoughts- the ATU in the KX-1 is a little limited, as compared to other larger ATUs with more combinations, so we need antenna lengths which are relatively close to 50 ohms and nonreactive. The G5RV has already been done, but I am thinking of getting out my MFJ bridge thingie and trying flattop/feeder, or antenna/counterpoise length combinations (other than the G5RV) that will work well, and repeatably with the KX-1 internal ATU. Seems to me there have to be many flattop/feeder or antenna/ counterpoise length combinations. 73 Jay W6CJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT - iMac Macintosh G5 for sale
Is this OK to post? I have an iMac G5, a little over a half a gig of ram, 17 inch screen, works great, photos on request, $700, rather see someone on the EleList get it, tired of the flakes on Craigs List, 73 de Alex NS6Y. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] American Morse Paddle?
I have one too and don't plan to give it up, BTW rather than screwing down the nuts and hoping they'll stay, I use washers for shims and just tighten it all down, it stays put, the paddle's a bit rattly but I like it. 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jun 28, 2006, at 7:50 PM, Sam Binkley wrote: Anyone have a American Morse Paddle gathering dust in their pile of 'I never use this thing I should get rid it' ~ Steve/n0tu - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 #1403 Antenna Project
Well, it's probably the Pac-12. Add 1-2 more of those sections to the part below the coil, use plenty of radials, and try something I saw someone set up, they just use the 40m coil with a jumper with an E-Z Hook on it to select turns for higher bands. It's a nice antenna! 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jun 28, 2006, at 10:39 PM, Jack Regan wrote: I have been following the antenna threads since I started building the KX1. These experiments are based on that thread, the ARRL Handbook 2004, previous research into commercial verticals and my own experience. The goals are to find the best antenna for the KX1 under various operating conitions. 1. Smallest, lightest, easiest to set up 4 band backpacking antenna. 2. Smallest, lightest, easiest to set up for 1, 2, or 3 bands for backpacking. 3. Most efficent antenna for 4 bands but still backpackable. 4. Most efficent 1, 2, or 3 band antennas but still backpackable. 5. Learn Antenna Theory and Practice. Formulas, Software, Instruments ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Using Elecraft 100W antenna tuners with any rig
Is there a way to use the antenna tuner that is meant for the 100W k2, with an arbitrary other rig? I mean, it's an Elecraft it's a GOOD tuner, is there any thought in mind of making an interface box or something that allows this? I'm seeing a lot of autotuner complaints on eham etc lately and had a few myself, I'd happily build a 100W Elecraft tuner for my applience, hehe. 73 de Alex NS6Y. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Hi Alex
Again proof that humor also stops at the US'ian border. I'm sorry but when the guy wrote, What's wrong with Alaska, Hawaii, and Canada? I just had to laugh. Hilarious! It's FUNNY, see? Especially coming from a Canadian! Really, we need to print up a Humor For Dummies book (the For Dummies series are actually great for getting up to speed on a subject) and put it online for free. Oh, and give my regards to the Queen and all, 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jun 26, 2006, at 8:32 AM, Valveman wrote: Sellers often restrict sales to the continental US or CONUS, because of shipping troubles, perceived higher costs, etc. In my own case (I sell on Ebay) I'll ship anywhere in the Empire, but it MUST be part of the Empire. Thus, Alaska, Hawaii, US bases overseas, no problem. However, absolutely NOT Canada. You see, Canada is not actually part of the USA. Many Canadians wish it were, and your message shows you are one of these. I feel for you, almost everyone in the world wishes they were in our wonderful Empire. I suggest you write to whatever you use for politicians up there and see if you can initiate a movement to beg the USA to incorporate Canada as a state, after all, you guys have oil. Good luck! Let us know how it goes, and we wish your success! 73 de Alex NS6Y. I find you comments rude, arrogant and insulting. If your intention was to piss off a few people then missson accomplished. You should use some tact next time! Robert VE3RPF __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: Canada
Yeah, I know, I just had to laugh when a Canadian said What's wrong with Alaska, Hawaii, and Canada? with the tacit assumption that Canada's just another part of the US, aww come on. And Canada is better off just being Canada, beating us at hockey, and that way we'll not have to learn what poutine is all about. 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jun 26, 2006, at 2:09 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hey Alexandra - just a minute. We need Canada for the Commonwealth Contest - without the VEs, the ZLs and VKs would have only each other to work for much of the contest. G I know it's off-topic, but look for Jacky ZM8CW from Raoul Island (Kermadecs) during the next few days- mostly 20,40 and 80m. I offered him one of my K2s but as he's going there by ship, weight is not a problem so he's taking his own rig and amp. He's a great CW op - QSL via Ron ZL1AMO. 73, Ken ZL1AIH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Hi Alex
This only gets funnier! Well, Canada DOES suck, don't get me wrong. One of the largest groups marrying Americans to get that all- important green card are Canadians. Kinda reminds me of the old Father Guido Sarducci routine, Help, they are keeping me in here, they feed me poutine 3 times a day, . lol. You're just hurt because the what's wrong with Hawaii, Alaska, Canada guy spoke truth. Here's a helpful household hint and for free: get to work processing your US visa/green card paperwork now, since these things can take time. And when in doubt, you can always petition to join the US Army, a caution though, they'll make you do push-ups. 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jun 26, 2006, at 12:13 PM, Valveman wrote: I find it interesting you excuse your comments as an attempt at humour. You just shown your true feelings about my Country with this comment Again proof that humor also stops at the US'ian border. I can guarantee you if I made the same comments about the US, you nor anyone else would have considered it humour. That's all I have to say. No need to reply. Robert VE3RPF ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: Hi Alex
Sad attempt at rebuttal posted for everyone's edification - much hiliarity ensues. Just think, this guy can't give up and neither can I, we may end up at war with a country that at least isn't so darned sandy. 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jun 26, 2006, at 1:33 PM, Randy Rathbun NV0U wrote: -BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE- Hash: SHA1 Alex, I thought it was funny too... I think that guy has been smoking too much back bacon. Like the French, Canadians seem to be easily ticked off at the stupidest things. I had some Canuk get mad because I said his logging program was okay, but not great. He then proceeded to make a fool of himself to the rest of the world. I see the guy just posted posted a rebuttal with all that how dare you show the world what a stupid message I sent! stuff to the reflector just now. No wonder Quebec wants to be it's own country! :) 73 and all that stuff... Randy NV0U ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Field Day at Home
Rock you're a genius. I tried my first Field Day with a club and know why I've stayed strictly away from it in 23 years of being licensed. Lots of watching others operate, watching computers (which have no place near a radio or anything fun) fail, freeze, and piss people off, watching a rat's nest of mutually not-always-compatible antennas get put up with varying degrees of success, and enough safety violations to make an OSHA officer crap their pants. Next time I'm staying home. 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jun 25, 2006, at 1:23 PM, Kevin Rock wrote: Good Afternoon, I took Wayne's advice and had a little fun during Field Day. I did want to work with other folks for a change but the cancellation at the very last minute did not allow me to find another group. So I worked about 220 contacts on 20, 40, and 80 meters using only CW with a solely search and pounce technique. I did get a couple hours of 40 contacts or more but I did take a number of hours off to do chores and to write some assembly language. It is my way of relaxing :) I ran the entire time on emergency power (1E) but ran from two rigs, two sets of paddles, and five separate antennas from three locations. The power jumped all over the place from 3 watts to 100 watts. Since I am not submitting any log this does not matter. I just have fun handing out points to others and seeing who I can hear. It is fun to test my CW skills against the fast and slow ops. There were a wide variety of fists as well ;) My goal was to beat what I did last year. I did that. I also wanted to work with a group of folks to get the full effect of the field day crowd. I did not get to do that. So a resolution for next year will be to start very early to find a group who will not bail out at the last minute. I also need to find a group who wants a CW operator. I was not successful with finding one in Oregon. Around here you have to be careful if you mention the mode. Too many folks are adamantly opposed to its use or even its existence. I had no idea of the depth of feeling until I mentioned how much fun I had running CW. I was never again welcome at that club! Now to ask a favor of folks in Washington, Northern California, Idaho, Nevada, Utah, or Montana. Is there any group who would have me as a CW op for next year's Field Day? I am willing to travel with my radio and camping gear to work with a friendly group of folks. QRP or not, it does not matter to me. I just want to work CW. If there are others working voice and data modes that is fine. I simply want to find a group where I will not be shunned for mentioning my enjoyment of CW. I've met a great number of very nice folks while working CW and especially after I started the Elecraft CW Net. I am sure I can find a group in the Pacific Northwest who will have me for next year's Field Day outing. Take care, Kevin. KD5ONS P.S. Next week we will have both nets at their normal times and frequencies. KJR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Field Day at Home
Thanks for the encouragement! Actually, I feel this is a valuable learning experience: (1) Bring your own gear and be familiar with its use in the field through practice, that way you'll always have a rig to plop yourself down in front of and operate - yours. (2) Bring salt and pepper for the burgers, and mayo too, sriracha perhaps too, just to see if anyone tries it (super hot sauce found in all vietnamese noodle shops) (3) Be good at code - If I were more up to speed on code, I'd have felt confident to just wait in the very short line to get on the CW station. Problem is, while I've been putting in work on it and getting better, I just wasn't there yet. (4) Nice simple antennas work great, think long hunks of wire + tall trees = happiness. (5) Computers are NOT your friends!! I signed up to do the digital station (psk31) because I can type better than most in the group and at least it's one thing I can do. Computers crapped out both for logging and I think when the one guy who set up the PSK31 station went home, the station went with him, at sundown. At the SSB station, same story, computer problems and unreliability. The GOTA station started humming right along once their computer died and they started a proper paper log. Learn to write well, quickly and cleanly, look up directed script or whatever it's called that the old time CW ops used. It can be transferred into a logging program that checks for dupes etc later, but in the 24-hour time window of FD, computers only slow ya down. Now, I actually don't have any Elecraft rigs right now. It's a long story. if I build yet ANOTHER KX1 I'll prolly just get the stock one and the internal tuner, and not mess with additional bands. I could always add them later, but keep it really simple at first. And I'll probably just use my own paddle - I have one of the little American Morse jobs and it's neat. Also, a Vibroplex Code-Mite straight key which looks like a toy but isn't, it's a very nice, sturdy, good- feeling little key. Oh, and I have an IC-7000 I just got. 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jun 25, 2006, at 4:05 PM, Joseph Trombino Jr wrote: Howdy Alex: I gave up on participating in club Field Day efforts many years ago precisely because of the points you raised. But don't give up on Field Day altogether.you are a QRP'er which makes you a special breedtake your QRP gear out to the field and have fun. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: FS Elecraft K- twins
Chalk it up to pure xenophobia, that and the fact that the crookedness/fraud/psycho rate is over 50%. It's profitable to hate foreigners just like it's profitable to avoid really bad parts of town at midnight with $100 bills hanging out of one's pocket. Xenophobia - it's a good thing. 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jun 25, 2006, at 7:22 PM, michael taylor wrote: Is is shipping costs? Legal hassle? Bad deals? Xenophobia? Dislike of other countries? Longer line-ups or slower service at the post office to send foreign mail? -Michael, VE3TIX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Watkins-Johnson (now audio filters)
That SCAF sounds fine business. I might well go with one of those when I can. My radio earphones are old WWII can jobs, they work great, they do take some of the noise out. 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jun 22, 2006, at 1:46 PM, Rick Dettinger wrote: Alex, I recently built an Idiom Press SCAF-1 audio filter and it was a vast improvement for my Icom-706IIG (it doesn't do much if anything for the K2). 73, Doug W6JD == I built the SCAF 1 and agree with one exception: I don't have good communication headphones and use Sony stereo 'phones. These are hifi and I get serious thumps from the K2, even with the AF 1 turned on. This is true with other rigs as well. The SCAF 1 removes this noise. I just need to make sure I don't overdrive the SCAF 1 as it is very sensitive to this. The filter really cleans up less than pure sidetone audio, too. I would like to get some good communication 'phones, without the microphone thingee. Any recommendations. I like the kind that seal out external noise. I like to use a bug but the damper clacking is distracting to me. 73 Rick Dettinger K7MW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Watkins-Johnson
OT here, but I recently got a Watkins-Johnson 8709 and wow do I ever love it! OK so the bottom case sheet metal is missing, gonna have to replace that with something, and one of the pushbuttons came off and fell on the floor this morning (I pushed it back onto its post) and it's idea of a narrow filter is 2.5kHz, this thing can really dig 'em out. Two questions - #1 do you think this is about as good as a K2 as a reciever, better, or worse, or what? Just curious. And #2, how well do audio filters, or even audio DSP like SGC sells, for narrowing things down for listening to CW? Man this thing is the bees knees. 73 Alex NS6Y ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Watkins-Johnson
I do not intend to use this near transmitters, so that should solve that, I hope! As for that batt, you have a point and thanks for the reminder. I need to get in there and see where that batt is, and see if it's ok. I need to make a replacement bottom panel for it too! 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jun 21, 2006, at 10:05 PM, Stuart Rohre wrote: Alex, Have you read the reviews of it on eham and the companion full rack width radio? There is a chance of blowing the front end, as these were used in listening posts, not near transmitters. Another reviewer mentioned the back up battery being prone to leaking and has posted the substitution of a back panel battery on pigtails to circumvent this problem. He used a RS battery of 2.4 volts as a replacement. I think that was on the 8718A full rack model, but likely yours will also have a battery back up. Good luck with the radio, Stuart K5KVH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: What's wrong with Serial
I have to side with Mario on this one - while I hate computers and love the idea of 'em getting fried, it can still be damned inconvenient. I know there's an RS-232 connection that uses a little connector that looks like the old one on the IBM PS/2 mouse, little round thing, could that be used? 73 de Alex NS6Y On Jun 20, 2006, at 12:53 AM, Mario Lorenz wrote: Am 19. Jun 2006, um 22:03:11 schrieb wayne burdick: Correct. Then the principle designer, N6KR, wrote: We didn't have room for two connectors. Wayne, Sorry to have to disagree. The issue is that you use what is a commonly used connector for a commonly used purpose (ie, a db9 for serial communications) in a way that is non-standard so badly that it might cause equipment damage when someone mistakenly assumes its standard. If space were the issue, you could have opted for even smaller footprint connectors that are not _that_ widely used for serial communications like RJ45 (Cisco routers being a notable exception), or, probably even better - a VGA connector, which gives you lots more pins on the same footprint. Mario ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Issue
If it won't tune to a dummy load then something is really wrong. 73 de Alex NS.Y. On Jun 20, 2006, at 6:24 AM, Brian Murrey wrote: Any experts on KXAT1 debugging? Yesterday I had the KX1 in the car with the 20m hamstick and for about half the day I was about to work Florida, Mass, Texas...with 2w and the KX1. I was using the KXAT1 to tune my hamstick, even though I have the hamstick adjusted to 1.2 : 1 without the tuner. BIG storm comes along, I'm not running CW now, I'm driving and listening to CW and lots of static. So I shut off the rig and keep tooling on down the road. About 20 mins later I pull into Riley Park in Greenfield IN and and park so I can play radio...except the KXAT1 is saying I am only putting out . 05 watts, then sometimes maybe .09 watts...SWR is like 8:1 now. So I move the car...I am in the clear...nothing metal near me...same thing. huh. When I get home I take the rig in to the radio room and attach it to the attic dipole, that never fails. I put it in auto tune mode...on 40m...SWR reads 9:1 on the KX1 but 1.2:1 on my external meter. I take it out of auto tune...do a manual tune...KXAT! says SWR is 9.9:1 and power out is less than half a watt...on a 14.0v power supply. So I go through the ATU setting, no error code (showing E00). I yank the KXAT1, jumper pins 1 and 3 on J7...which now makes it a KX1 without an internal ATU. I connect it to my external antenna tuner/SWR meter and tune for 1:1 SWR and I'm getting almost 3w on 40m, 4w on 30m, and 2.8w on 20mlike normal...according to the external meter. Made a couple of QSO's and got 579 and 599...meter showing just about 3w as expected. So what happened to my KXAT1? Did the firmware take a dive? I also notice that when I transmit now, I only get one LED at the far left of the display to pop on...it used to show three or four...external meter shows 3w usually. I did reset to factory defaults, turned the 30m back on...maybe I don't know what the SIG settings should be... Anyone have any ideas? I have tuned C9 on the KXAT1 for the lowest DC voltage at the REFL point...I'm getting .62 vDC. I have stepped through the relays and they all click when activated, so I'm kind of stumped other than thinking the firmware got hosered up somehow in the storm. It will not tune to a dummy load...or at least the LED display says it won't. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: UK import duty
Except that, having a car isn't as required in the UK as in the US, and I don't think you have average ppl in the UK doing 20K miles a year. I myself am quite a light driver, only doing about 7k a year. And, car insurance in the US is generally $100 a month and up, not sure what it is in the UK. 73 de Alex NS6Y On Jun 18, 2006, at 1:19 AM, Nick Waterman wrote: David [M0WAM] wrote: Sorry to continue such an OT thread, but you US citizens should really count your blessings... In 2002 total tax burdens as percentage of GNP were: S, nobody tell them how much we pay for petrol - they'd have a heart attack if their gas cost anywhere near as much ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: UK import duty
Yes, indeed. The US has probably the highest tax rate in the world, the better to support all those illegals getting benefits under 7 different names, I'm only halfway joking, we have a serious problem with things like this! 73 de Alex NS6Y On Jun 16, 2006, at 11:45 PM, David Douglass wrote: Alex, I always though we had one of the highest levels of Tax in the world !! Looks like the US must hold the record on this !!! Regards David, VK2NU -Original Message- From: Alexandra Carter [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, 16 June 2006 4:08 PM To: David Douglass Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re: UK import duty Ugh, try living in the US. For a single working person, about 1/3 of earnings go for federal taxes, then there are state taxes, then there are sales taxes of an average of close to 9%! And none of our postal people are that cool lol! 73 de Alex NS6Y On Jun 15, 2006, at 4:40 AM, David Douglass wrote: When I got my first K2, I had to pay 10% of valve (~$75AUS) at the post office before I could collect it. I was told this was applicable for all imported items above $500AUS. When I got my second K2 earlier this year I also expected to have to pay the same amount, but was informed by the local postmaster, that customs couldn't be bothered to collect the money on postal items anymore, and I didn't have to pay a thing. Obviously the Australian government are ripping us off enough in income tax, to not have to worry about VAT on imports.. David, Vk2NU -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.0/366 - Release Date: 15/06/2006 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Pelican Case for K2 Portable Station
Sounds like you'd better consider the kind of Pelican case rifle shooters use! Honestly! 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jun 12, 2006, at 7:23 AM, Mark Baugh wrote: Has anyone already solved the question of what Pelican case to use with a K2 complete station? I would like to put a K2, with antenna and K1EL K-40, a Heil set, computer keyboard and associated cables into a Pelican. I'm thinking about the Buddipole but an not yet decided. Links to photos and specs would be greatly appreciated! --- I use a Pelican 1600 case; plenty big to hold the whole station but not too big to handle. About the size of a medium suitcase. 73, Byron 73, Mark Baugh W5EZY Grenada MS __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Black Widow paddle kit
From the looks of it, the paddles themselves are guitar picks - which are easy to get replacements for, and REALLY hard to break (essentially can't be), esp. the heavier thicknesses, which is what it looks like are on the paddle in the picture. I think you guys may make me decide to get one. It looks like a neat little key! Speaking of neat little keys, I recently got a code mite key from Vibroplex, which is a little straight key, and it's neat! I really like this little key. 73 de Alex NS6Y It looks to be a fine piece of engineering, Eric, apart from the paddles which seem very fragile. Considering that the force of the thumb and index finger will be pushing against the paddles which only have a screw head supporting them, my guess is that one would need to be very light fisted. Just an observation from the picture - I could be wrong. Timothy A. Raymer Missouri Department of Health and Senior Services ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Building KX-2 SN 1482 Question
Definately keep the BNC connector on there, and just use an adaptor. Alligator clip pigtails will be much more of a headache than you realize at this time. 73 de Alex NS6Y On Jun 6, 2006, at 10:08 AM, Larry Wright wrote: The build is going well. My question is this: has anyone used alligator clip outputs in place of the BNC connector? What do you see as the pros and cons of using alligator clips? I have been using the SST and the L-tuner (which has alligator clip outputs) since last fall and so am accustomed to using alligator clips. I anticapate mostly using the KX-1 for camping, backpacking, and portable use with an endfed wire and counterpoise.. So instead of using the BNC and an adapter, I am considering contructing it with alligator clip outputs. It would appear to me to be easy to put the BNC connector in later if I decide the alligator clips are not a good choice. Removing the BNC looks like a difficult task if I later decide I don't like it. I welcome any comments. 73 Larry N4QY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] kx1 for sale
Well, I've gone through my equipment inventory and my finances, and I can keep my spectrum analyzer or my KX1 not both, I got the KX1 then ended up with the spec-an, and my ft-897 which I love, and I have to trim the inventory down now. So, I've put the kx1 on ebay, I'm sure it's the only half built on one there, so have a look if you guys like and ask me any questions you may have. 73 de Alex NS6Y ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 EMBARKATION of #001363
As for crystal clear, I'll just say now, read the instructions carefully on the crystals, since the GND wires are placed on the sides not on the tops like you've seen in tons of stuff, and keep some nice wires like off of LEDs or even your own bus wire for the ground wires since the regular old resistor leads etc are often copper plated and tinned soft iron and will want to stick to your soldering iron tip. 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Jun 3, 2006, at 4:11 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Well the games have begun, I started building KX1 serial #001363 It looked intimidating at first.; but yes, the instruction are crystal clear!! That's just what this reflector said. THIS WILL BE LOTS OF FUN...BTW my new HAKKO 936 from dayton sure is a pleasure to use. Ken K1UM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Useful DMM/Cap/Transistor Meters
Thanks, I was wondering. Seems my missive against PayPal was disappeared Alex. On May 31, 2006, at 10:56 PM, Mark Bayern wrote: Looks like you are! Mark AD5SS On 6/1/06, Alexandra Carter [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Testing testing test message. Am I still on this list? Alex. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Way OT - eBay - HELP
OK people. Listen up and listen up good. DON'T have anything to do with PayPal until you have read the sites www.paypalwarning.com and www.paypalsucks.com - then look into the many class-action and individual lawsuits against PayPal and then and only then will you be equipped to decide if you want them to own a piece of your life forever. THEN, if you get SPAM from PayPal, forward it with full headers to [EMAIL PROTECTED] You see, PayPal is owned by Ebay therefore all PayPal scams and spoofs are actually done by Ebay. Anything newsworthy, go to your news media right away - if it bleeds it leads and PayPal/Ebay make plenty of people do just that, all accounts cleaned out and the victem left living under a bridge and begging for a living. de Alex NS6Y. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Just built AADE capacitance meter - great!
Aren't those just the greatest little toys? I've built one too and they're great! I can also recommend the M2 Electronix Component Analyzer. That will tell you what kind of transistor/diode you have, it's hfe and stuff like that, another cool little toy. 73 de Alex NS6Y On May 31, 2006, at 7:04 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Just a burst of enthusiasm from a satisified customer - I just built an AADE capacitance/inductance meter. Went together in about 1 1/2 hours, worked at first power up -- what a nice instrument! I will be building an HFPacker amp for use with my K1, thought it would be a good idea to be able to check the caps as they go in. I do this routinely for resistors. 73, Mike N2HTT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: Enclosure for Elecraft T1 tuner
OH, ok, I guess I feel better now! 73/72/HP-41C de Alex NS6Y On May 29, 2006, at 2:39 PM, W2AGN wrote: FYI, for many years 72 has been used among QRPers to indicate Best QRP. Originated by Oleg, RV3GM back in 1994 or 1995. -- _ _ _ _ _ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ John L. Sielke ( W ) ( 2 ) ( A ) ( G ) ( N ) http://w2agn.net \_/ \_/ \_/ \_/ \_/ http://www.blurty.com/users/w2agn/ CRUSTY OLD CURMUDGEON - AND PROUD OF IT! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Wha'ts Wrong With Our Radios (WAS:NewProducts, Building Demo, ...
I think the influence may have been military. Pre-WWII radios are the long shallow model, some early 1930s mil rigs were, but as WWII got more serious, the rigs seemed to settle on the small panel-deep chassis form factor. It makes sense when you're cramming a lot of gear into an airplane, making a radio to fit in a backpack or Jeep, in a tank, etc. Since a lot of ham gear was actually ex-military gear following WWII, and since the US's warlike nature has supplied hams with a constant supply of military surplus stuff since, (this has only recently dried up, due to the classified/controlled nature of the modern mil gear) we seem to have radios these days that are about the same shape as military ones. Frankly, if you're putting a radio in your car or RV or boat, taking one along in a backpack, etc. the military type of shape makes sense. I notice these days there are radios with the old prewar form factor, such as the FT-1000 series and the new $5000-$10 rigs the makers have just come out with. Those are not meant to go into anyone's car or boat... or tank. And they are relatively wide and shallow. The megabuck rigs even allow for a computer screen to be added, making the total thing even wider and shallower overall. Just some thoughts, 73 de Alex NS6Y. On May 26, 2006, at 9:30 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Whether the rig was simple or complex, the small panel/deep chassis idea became the most common, even for rigs that would obviously never be used mobile. It became electro-politically incorrect to build a ham rig any other way, even though the original reason for the form factor was gone (2). That influence continues to the present day. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Enclosure for Elecraft T1 tuner
This is a letter/replay to American Morse Guess I only rate a 72 lol! But, who knows, this may happen. for the record the plastic case is fine with me! Alex. On May 29, 2005, at 1:30 PM, Doug Hauff wrote: Thanks, Alex, I'll check it out! 72, Doug W6AME You ought to make an enclosure for the Elecraft T1 tuner, I've just read through the reviews of it on Eham and a lot of people don't like the plastic case. 73 de Alex NS6Y ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] T1 tuner from elephant-craft
It never forgets! That it's a tuner! The AT-897 from LDG often forgot it was a tuner and thought it was a rock. I returned it and ordered a T1 kit, and what a neat lil' tuner! Works tickety-boo as I think they say in Oz, and while the operator interface is 3 LEDs and 2 buttons, it's both easy to work with and tells you a lot. Tells me a lot. Tells one a lot. It does tune right down to a very low SWR, brrt brrt brt and there you are. I took it to the park today with my 897 and a bunch of wire and got 12 feet of that wire up in a tree (took 3 throws) and laid out a counterpoise... here and there and talked to Minnesota on 20W. Don't feel ashamed if you choose to order it already built, they sure earn that $50 or so difference at the factory, this is harder than any of the mini-kits or rig accessories I've built, although there's less to it than to a KX1 or K1. You get to wind about 10 or so toroids, really no problem, and when you're done toroids will be familiar territory for you. The smallest value one is wound left- handed for a change, meanwhile I'm left-handed and have learned to wind toroids right-handed because that's the standard. With an 800 degree iron the BNC conns are easy to solder, for the rest a 700-degree pointy tip iron is just right. One row of relays has .1uF SMD caps between their legs so you have to solder a bit carefully. The control board needs to have its components trimmed close so have good flush cutters and solder the Elecraft way without leaving a big blobby fillet. It was greatly satisfying to see everything clearing the CPU very nicely when it all went together. When inserting the CPU get those legs at a nice perfect 90 degrees and make sure it all lines up when you install it in the socket, because it's going into a bit of a tight spot. It doesn't hurt to look at it from a few different angles to make sure the legs are all going in, as you squeeze it down bit by bit. That's a very high quality socket Elecraft uses so once it's in there right It's going to stay right. I'd say go slow and do it right, I did it in 2 evenings, someone else told me theirs took a bit longer, it's possible to put one together in one sitting I guess . With my 897 on battery power I'm limited to 20W and this is a 20W max tuner, so it works out just right. Everything is very logically laid out so I feel if I ever zorch something I can easily order the parts and fix it. Great, great little tuner! 73 de Alex NS6Y ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: T1 tuner from elephant-craft
Yerg, but Eham's still down. I'll write an even better one when the site's back up, it'll be the bestest review in the whole wide world! Or something. I have to admit, when I first heard the name Elecraft, I imagined a cartoon of a bunch of elephants sitting around a table building stuff. ought to draw it someday. 73 de Alex NS6Y On May 26, 2006, at 8:43 AM, wayne burdick wrote: Thanks, Alex :) This would make a great T1 review on eHam (better written than most) when they come back up, someday the URL for T1 reviews is: http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/4956 73, Wayne N6KR On May 26, 2006, at 1:36 AM, Alexandra Carter wrote: It never forgets! That it's a tuner! The AT-897 from LDG often forgot it was a tuner and thought it was a rock. I returned it and ordered a T1 kit, and what a neat lil' tuner! Works tickety-boo as I think they say in Oz, and while the operator interface is 3 LEDs and 2 buttons, it's both easy to work with and tells you a lot. Tells me a lot. Tells one a lot. It does tune right down to a very low SWR, brrt brrt brt and there you are. I took it to the park today with my 897 and a bunch of wire and got 12 feet of that wire up in a tree (took 3 throws) and laid out a counterpoise... here and there and talked to Minnesota on 20W. Don't feel ashamed if you choose to order it already built, they sure earn that $50 or so difference at the factory, this is harder than any of the mini-kits or rig accessories I've built, although there's less to it than to a KX1 or K1. You get to wind about 10 or so toroids, really no problem, and when you're done toroids will be familiar territory for you. The smallest value one is wound left-handed for a change, meanwhile I'm left-handed and have learned to wind toroids right-handed because that's the standard. With an 800 degree iron the BNC conns are easy to solder, for the rest a 700-degree pointy tip iron is just right. One row of relays has .1uF SMD caps between their legs so you have to solder a bit carefully. The control board needs to have its components trimmed close so have good flush cutters and solder the Elecraft way without leaving a big blobby fillet. It was greatly satisfying to see everything clearing the CPU very nicely when it all went together. When inserting the CPU get those legs at a nice perfect 90 degrees and make sure it all lines up when you install it in the socket, because it's going into a bit of a tight spot. It doesn't hurt to look at it from a few different angles to make sure the legs are all going in, as you squeeze it down bit by bit. That's a very high quality socket Elecraft uses so once it's in there right It's going to stay right. I'd say go slow and do it right, I did it in 2 evenings, someone else told me theirs took a bit longer, it's possible to put one together in one sitting I guess . With my 897 on battery power I'm limited to 20W and this is a 20W max tuner, so it works out just right. Everything is very logically laid out so I feel if I ever zorch something I can easily order the parts and fix it. Great, great little tuner! 73 de Alex NS6Y ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: eham site down?
I've dug around and they're worried about it too on QRZ, the word is they're doing some rebuilding. Sheesh DOS attacks, won't some ppl grow up? 73 de Alex NS6Y. PS just built the little ciggy-pack ATU and checked for basic heartbeat, it's aliive! I have to do more testing now, you see the only time I get for hamming is after midnight and I have to pay for it with decreased sleep. On May 24, 2006, at 10:44 PM, wayne burdick wrote: They may have shut down because of a denial-of-service attack. This has happened several times. On one occasion they were down for over four days rebuilding and/or moving to a different server. 73, Wayne N6KR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Eham.net
I just checked and still no Eham, let's hope whatever's broken can be fixed and they're back soon! 73 de Alex NS6Y. On May 25, 2006, at 12:04 AM, Tom Harson wrote: eHam.net site is back up! ___ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: Re [Elecraft] DX News and two questions
Yes, 2-meters is no problem, HF may be a bit harder but not impossible. Our trains here are kinda noisy though, I swear some of those cars have square wheels! 73 de Alex NS6Y On May 24, 2006, at 12:17 AM, Sverre Holm wrote: -- Date: Wed, 24 May 2006 00:13:12 +0300 From: Bekir Kemal Ataman [EMAIL PROTECTED] Is it possible at all to work from a train in motion? de TA2RX - Merhebe Bekir, Yes, you can operate from a train, see LA5XOA's story from last year about LA1TRAIN - LA9TRAIN where they also operated in motion from a steam- powered train: http://193.213.26.174/main_trip_train.htm?1148454757239 I think you will have a fun time doing this! 73 Sverre LA3ZA http://www.qslnet.de/la3za/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] eham site down?
I think the web site eham.net is down, as in permenantly. This is a loss because it's a useful source of reviews on all kinds of equipment, not only Elecraft but other makers too. As well as articles, discussions, elmers QA, and a bunch of other great resources. However, they've been down for a few days now, with not even a placeholder message telling when they'll be back up. Disappearances like this are seen in cases like: Hurricane Katrina (when the servers are at least 10ft below the water line), direct missile strikes, or sudden and severe cases of bankruptcy where the site owner, webmaster, etc. dont' have time to leave any info because they have to catch that redeye flight out of country. However Eham has come to its demise, it will be missed. It was a really good site. RIP. 73 de Alex NS6Y. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Begali contacts - old thread reprise...
Interesting post on the DeOxit.. I just got a bug and was told, They're not as good as modern keyers, they truncate their dits. But maybe some DeOxit and paper burnishing will change this. Thanks for the info, 73 de Alex NS6Y On May 24, 2006, at 9:11 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: I'm one of those who has used DeOxit on some old keys - two bugs from the 1950's that see regular service on my operating desk. I was having to constantly buff the contacts. I used bit of paper, drawing it through the contacts while holding them closed several times. If I didn't use a particular key for several days, it'd be needing a considerable cleaning. Even when in constant use, I'd have to do a cleaning every week or so. Keep in mind that the contact closure is far more critical on a bug than it is on paddles. If the logic sees a contact closure when using a keyer, it'll make a dot or dash of exactly the correct length. With a bug, that dot or dash length is totally dependent upon the rig seeing a good, stable contact closure for exactly the right length of time. If the contact is dirty, the element will be truncated. The sending is often described as scratchy with the carrier jumping on and off perhaps several times in the length of one dash at 20 wpm as the keying circuit interprets the poor contact is alternately an open or closed circuit. It really makes for nasty sending. One day I was launching into yet another cleaning and saw, right next to my key, a little squeeze bottle of Caig DeOxit. So I put a small drop on the contacts. The surface tension held it in place with the contacts open. A few minutes later I tried the key. Perfect contact action. I did have to remove the excess DeOxit from the dot contacts since the liquid interfered with the smooth action of the pendulum that makes dots on a bug. So all that was left was the very thin film of DeOxit that clung to the metal. It was more than six months later that I noticed the contacts needing help. Before I had to clean them ever few days. I now keep a little squeeze bottle of DeOxit at the operating desk G. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of David A. Belsley Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 7:48 PM To: ROBERT CARROLL Cc: 'Elecraft Reflector' Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Begali contacts - old thread reprise... Yes. It's fantastic for virtually all contacts and pots. dave belsley, w1euy On May 24, 2006, at 10:28 PM, ROBERT CARROLL wrote: Dave- I bought a Graciella at Dayton so am very interested in this thread. Are you talking about Caig Deoxit or something else? Bob W2WG -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of David A. Belsley Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 10:21 PM To: Kenneth Moorman Cc: Elecraft Reflector Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Begali contacts - old thread reprise... I put the stuff on my keys a couple of years ago and haven't had any problems since. I think it will last indefinitely. I learned about the stuff on this reflector, so I suspect there are those with even longer experience who may want to chime in. best wishes, dave belsley, w1euy On May 24, 2006, at 9:54 PM, Kenneth Moorman wrote: Hi David, How long will the Deoxit treatment last? Thanks, Ken, NU4I - Original Message - From: David A. Belsley [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: n3drk [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 9:26 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Begali contacts - old thread reprise... A tenth-drop of Deoxit on the contacts will produce the same effect with no abrasion at all. best wishes, dave belsley, w1euy On - david a. belsley professor of economics ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com - david a. belsley professor of economics ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to:
[Elecraft] Re: failure notice
Here is the message again. I keep going back and checking, and they've been nuked off of the face of the earth. I have visions of the owner/webmaster either making a panicky buy of plane tickets under assumed names to Switzerland or Brazil, or of them under a bridge right now, deciding who gets the Spam and who gets the pork'n'beans and who keeps first watch. The site was very, very, very good. The reviews were an irreplaceable service. They will be missed. 73 de Alex NS6Y. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] New KX1
Congrats!! It is truly The Apocalyptic Radio! 73 de Alex NS6Y On May 13, 2006, at 5:20 AM, a.yoshida wrote: Hello Finished asembling KX1/KXAT1. What a great Tranceiver it is !!! -- 73 de aki, ja1nlx [EMAIL PROTECTED] K2 #4504, K1 #1963, KX1 #1450 http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~yy7a-ysd/ http://ja1nlx.exblog.jp/_ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] New KX1
yeah, sadly. Tis true though. 73 de Alex NS6Y On May 14, 2006, at 4:19 PM, wayne burdick wrote: That's all ham radio needs is a good, solid, 9-out-of-100 apocalypse. Restore our faith in independent communications W On May 14, 2006, at 10:55 AM, Alexandra Carter wrote: Congrats!! It is truly The Apocalyptic Radio! 73 de Alex NS6Y ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Question for KX1
Try taking a big fat toroid from somewhere and looping your coax through that about 15 times at the antenna end and see how that works for you. Alternately, put a bunch of clip-on beads on the coax at the antenna end and try that. Alternately, try lengthening the antenna on the 'hot' side as the coax braid may be acting as the ground side. Not saying I know, just saying, Try. 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Apr 30, 2006, at 5:49 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: Paul, A balun may or may not help. and in any case, a balun or no balun is not the answer to your situation - the 20 ft of coax is acting like an impedance transformer, and without a thorough analysis of your antenna and feedline system, it is difficult to say what would help. Perhaps some experimentation is in order - add a 4:1 balun and see what happens, simlarly try a 1:1 balun, try changing the length of the parallel feedline, and try changing the length of the coax. All these things will influence the results, as will changing the length of the antenna wires. If you do not have adequate instrumentation to analyze the system, then a bit of old fashioned 'cut and try' may be the way to properly answer your questions - in any case, keep notes of what happens so you will know which way to go when making future changes. When you find something that works, rejoice and let us know, perhaps some of us can give you some info relating to why it works. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I have been playing with my KX1 in the back yard the last week or so and found that about 26ft of wire in the hot side of the bnc connector and about the same to the cold side gets me a good match with the built in ATU on 40,30,20m Now if I use the same wires but add 20ft of coax between the radio and these wires I find it very hard to get a match on any band, do I need to use a balun at the end of the coax? Any thoughts Paul M0BMN ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Soldering tip
Translation: Wipe on a wet sponge before use. 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Apr 23, 2006, at 7:35 AM, Tom Hammond wrote: Ken: There has been alot of soldering how-to on the reflector. No matter what I do my soldering station tip does not stay shiny. It seems that I must retin it after every connection... What could cause this? The following comments are from my personal experience from 40+ years of building. I DO NOT FANCY MYSELF TO BE AN EXPERT ON SOLDERING... particularly in the company of some of the folks here on this reflector... HEAT will cause the tip to develop a thin coating of oxidized lead in a very short period of time, as will burnt flux. DO NOT EXPECT the tip to remain bright and shiny when it's sitting, waiting for the next joint. And be sure to set your tip temperature at a level which is appropriate for your soldering operations. Generally 700-725 deg. F seems to work pretty well for most kit soldering. If you leave the iron setting for long periods of time, TURN THE TEMP DOWN... or OFF. There's little (if any) need to clean the tip AFTER you complete a soldered joint... the solder remaining on the tip will help to protect it from excessive oxidation of the iron cladding on the tip. However, keep a 'cleaning pad' of some sort next to your soldering station and wipe the tip on the pad each time JUST BEFORE you solder that next joint. There has been some discussion with regard to what type of 'wiping pad' to use. Some prefer to use a dampened sponge, others a damp rag, and I personally prefer to use a coiled stainless steel kitchen 'scrubbie'... similar to those offered by Hakko for its line of soldering stations. From experience, I've found that rubbing the tip of my soldering iron against a damp pad of any type does a nice job of cleaning off the crud which has built up on the tip of the iron, but it also cools down the tip just at the instant I'm wanting to use it... never quite rang true for me... cool the tip just before you use it... but I found that merely inserting the tip of my iron down into the coils of a stainless steel kitchen scrubbie... www.n0ss.net/soldering_iron_tip_cleaner.pdf will produce a nice clean tip with minimal tip cooling. And any 'dross' scraped off the tip filters down to the bottom of the enclosure I'm using to hold the scrubbie, so I can pull it out once a month and dump out the crud into the wastebasket. I've used this cleaning method for the past 15-20 years on all sorts of soldering iron tips and have never experienced ANY evidence of excessive tip wear or abrading of the plated-on iron coatings of any of my tips. Now once I get this soldering tip matter cured, then I'm ready to start the KX1 Hope these suggestions might help a bit. Now, I'll wait for the rebuttals from those who know what they're doing. G 73, Tom HammondN0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] PC BOARD DRILL BITS
Tungsten carbide bits live a LOT longer if they're used an a drill press, they just can't stand ANY side forces. 73 de Alex NS6Y On Apr 23, 2006, at 7:11 AM, Tom Hammond wrote: Just a note for builders, especially those who make their own PC boards. While you CAN use high-speed steel drill bits to drill your glass-epoxy PC boards, you'll find that they (the bits) will dull very quickly (sometimes within the first dozen holes) due to heating (especially when turned at high rotational speeds) and the dulling effects of the fiberglass in the PC board substrate. For drilling holes in PC boards, drill bits made of Tungsten Carbide will last MUCH LONGER (typically several THOUSAND holes), even when turned at very high speeds. The problem with carbide bits though is that they are EXTREMELY BRITTLE and will break if you even look at them askance, or if they're subjected to lateral stress. Run them straight up 'n down and they'll last for a LONG time, but apply even a small amount of lateral stress and you'll be replacing the bit in a heartbeat. JUST A WORD TO THE WISE SHOULD BE SUFFICIENT. For the past 20+ years, I've been making my own PC boards... in the kitchen... with the kind forbearance of my dear XYL, Jeri (K0RPH). And I've been using an old Dremel MotoTool, secured in a drill stand designed to hold the device, for virtually all drilling tasks. The drill stand allows me to run the drill motor (and bit) straight up and down, with virtually no lateral stress on the bit (unless I try to move the PC board before the bit's fully exited the last-drilled hole (bad things happen then!). I've had problems finding reasonably-priced suitable tungsten-carbide bits however. Most new bits run $4-$5 (US) each and I shudder to think of breaking one each time I chuck it up into the drill motor. I found a semi-local source of used bits (but still good for a few thousand holes), but I think he's no longer available, so I've had to search for another source. Fortunately a friend, Willie, KH6NO/7, has found a source of resharpened tungsten-carbide bits in Drill Bit City... http://www.store.yahoo.com/drillcity/restool.html While the prices ($0.90/bit) are not those I was paying a year or two ago, they're still a LOT better than 4X to 5X that price, for bit which will break just as fast, and which won't drill any more holes than a resharpened bit. Just thought I'd bring this to the attention of anyone who might be searching for a more reasonable price for their PC board drill bits. A sharp tungsten-carbide bit, chucked up in a high-speed drill motor will go thru PC board like a hot knife thru butter. Enjoy. 73, Tom HammondN0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 RX deaf after KB3080 installation
I got so. dismayed... .with this problem with my 30m module I just finally decided to remove it and see if the KX1 would work again, I did and it did. Then I replaced the pieces of wire for the 30m module and started again, really from scratch, installed it again, and the 2nd time worked the charm. It's kind of the IBM Field Tech way to fix a problem but it did work.. 73 de Alex NS6Y On Apr 20, 2006, at 11:42 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: I can't see anything wrong with L6 or the circuitry around CA and C26. I'll lift one end of L6 tomorrow- but now I'm starting to wonder if Q7 might be shorted. Bruce N7CEE ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Second RX
Just get a 2nd K2! By boots I suspect you mean an amp, they're out there, the HFpack group has an amp in the works, I think you can buy the kit, and there are other kits out there. Our FCC in the US is very uneasy about anything that could be conceivably be used on CB, so HF QRP amps are not as common on the US market as they could be. 73 de Alex NS6Y On Apr 21, 2006, at 2:25 PM, Mike Harris wrote: Hi, Had the chance to play with a Yaesu MP1000-M Mk.V (apologies for swearing) today and was most impressed with the functionality that the second RX path gives when working split. Never experienced that before. Other than that a bit OTT for me. Wouldn't it be nice to have a second RX module, rather like the external VFO of old, slaved to the main K2 chassis. Or maybe an interface module that enables another RX to be coupled to the K2 for common antenna feed, switching and muting. Something else I thought about was boots for the KX1. 20W or so would make it handy as a slightly more potent, holiday, restricted bands, mini rig. It would still be a pretty compact combo. Regards, Mike VP8NO ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 U1 part number
The way I do it, is melt slobber and goo ahead! 73 de Alex NS6Y On Apr 21, 2006, at 3:24 PM, Nigel A. Gunn G8IFF/KC8NHF wrote: Same device, different number. Goo ahead and melt solder. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 U1 part number
Yep the NE602/SA602/SA612 are the same part as far as I know! 73 de Alex NS6Y (KX1 LED still white, just checked!) On Apr 21, 2006, at 3:15 PM, Bill Reid wrote: The K2 manual lists SA602 for U1 on the control board and the part number in my kit is SA612. Is this IC OK to install? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 U1 part number
You know that little white light in your KX1? Well, that's an LED. The KX1 LED. 73 de Alex NS6Y On Apr 21, 2006, at 3:31 PM, Nigel A. Gunn G8IFF/KC8NHF wrote: I've not got a KX1 LED. Do I need one? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 problem or is it the antenna? - SOLVED
Never take cables completely for granted. I recently had a Pomona BNC jumper, looked good, ohm'ed out good, but on my analyzer was BAD. It was weird! Physically looked beautiful, tested out perfect with the DMM, but wow, was it ever a baddie on the RF analyzer. Here's how to check: Put a dummy load on the end and test'um. You should see 50 ohms all across the range, SWR 1:1 across the range. Yes, I threw the bad cable in the trash, don't worry no one will buy it from me for $1 at the next ham swap meet! 73 de Alex NS6Y On Apr 20, 2006, at 4:48 AM, Darwin, Keith wrote: Last night, while driving home from work, I was formulating my plan of attack. First I'd do a walk around at the antenna base to see if things are good there. I noticed the connection between the coax and the antenna was just a tad loose. I hand tightened it and then checked the system with my analyzer. All was back the way it should be. Tuner settings on 40 meters is once again wide and forgiving. I'm getting 200 KHz of more of 2:1 bandwidth and the settings are back to where they used to be. K2 is once again happy and the Palstar meter are saying I have a good match. To celebrate, I made a CW contact on 40 with the K2. Very nice Thanks for all the suggestions such. It helps to get a guys thoughts organized. 73! - Keith - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 RX deaf after KB3080 installation
This sounds like the problem I had with the old 30m module, finally I just took it out and re-installed, I never did figure out what I did wrong although I'm sure one wire went in the wrong hole, then went in the right one the 2nd go. 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Apr 20, 2006, at 9:54 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: L6 is good, it measures 1 ohm. But I'm seeing only 1 to 4 ohms from min to max RF gain. That tallies with what I'm hearing- the RF gain has almost no effect on received sigs. So I'll look for whatever is pulling R1 down. Thanks again- it always helps to have a second set of eyes. 73 Bruce N7CEE ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] DSL filters as RFI filters -- don't bother!
My own understanding is that DSL operates in the 1-2 MHz range, read it in some manual somewhere. 73 de Alex NS6Y At 02:34 PM 4/17/2006, Vic K2VCO wrote: Although the DSL signal is much lower in frequency than ham signals (I believe 10-100 KHz, correct me if I'm wrong), I thought it would be worth a try.73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] soldering station info
I'll second all of that!! Good rundown on slobbering irons. I deal in electronic surplus and see broken temp-adjustable irons all the time, at the same time there are tons of Magnetrol type Wellers out there, some as old as I am, still working fine. (Got the tuner, key, and first part of my KX1 done with my trusty Weller myself last night.) 73 de Alex NS6Y On Apr 15, 2006, at 6:55 AM, G. Beat wrote: Some comments, each station design has its strengths and weaknesses The Haako 936 uses ceramic heaters - some users swear by them other swear at them. The true Haako replacement heaters are NOT cheap - and their are already Chinese copies of poorer quality (users beware of future cheap replacements. IF you drop the iron - the ceramic can (and does crack) - causing failures. The Weller EC series (EC1002, EC2002) was discontinued by Weller in 2002. The Weller WES51 (WES50 earlier) was introduced around 1999 as a direct competitor for the Haako 936. The Pace ST-25 is also of this same class of station The price points (~ $90 ) are virtually identical for the Haako 936 and WES51 (Fry's Electronics still has cheapest price for a walk-in store purchase in US) - both are temperature controlled (knob up front) - as well as the Pace. The WES51 offers a magnetic wand to set or lock the temperature. The replacement iron for the WES51 is $30 .. significantly less than the Haako or its heater. The more expensive units (Hakko, OKI, Weller, Pace etc.) feature temperature set-backs The Weller TCP series is still a tremendous bargain (and still made after 40 years of production and 50 years after first patent filing. Either used or new - any competent Elecraft builder can repair it ! The surface mounted control board (knob and all) stations -- require expensive control boards, thermostats or heater assemblies - and MUST be properly calibrated for temperature - or the knob has NO meaning !! w9gb Sometime simplicity Like you, I have a Hakko 936. The reason I like it over the Weller in a $100 soldering station is for the Hakko's front-panel temperature control instead of changing tips to change temperatures. Of course Weller offers front-panel temperature change too, but at substantially more money than the Hakko. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Hakko soldering station
I think any Hakko is worth it, but I'll extend that to say any soldering station costing more than $100 is worth it these days. 73 de Alex NS6Y On Apr 14, 2006, at 1:53 AM, Paul Gates, KD3JF wrote: In fact if I went back to some folders on soldering of mine I think you are the one who recommended that I get the Hako 936. A good choice. I would like to get their de-soldering station. Paul, KD3JF EX: WA4JGI, WA8TER Central Maryland FM19qd (Map Grid Square) - Original Message From: Alexandra Carter [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 12:48:15 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Hakko soldering station I'm a diehard Weller user and I agree - I think the Hakkos are a good increment better - they've taken the basic functionality of the Weller and refined it, the handpiece is smaller, etc., and they're used in production work so they're good instruments. 73 de Alex NS6Y On Apr 13, 2006, at 9:29 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: Dave K4TO asked: Any opinions about the model 936 Hakko soldering station...any better recommendations? It's a great soldering station. I've had one for several years. I especially like being able to adjust the temperature with a knob on the front panel. Lots of heat output: comes up to full temperature from cold very fast and the temp remains constant in spite of the soldering activity. The only real competition I know of are the Wellers. After using it for a few years I'll take the Hakko over a Weller any day. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] soldering station info, from a guy who does it all day: slightly OT
There are cheapie soldering irons made by almost everyone, including Weller. The minimum Weller model is the WTCPT, the minimum Hakko is whatever model is in that same price range. 73 de Alex NS6Y On Apr 14, 2006, at 1:16 PM, Bob Nielsen wrote: On Apr 14, 2006, at 12:40 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: The Pace and Edsyn soldering stations are in the $130 range. The OKI (was Metcal) soldering stations like the Wellers with front-panel temperature controls get up near $200. Of course, they all have special purpose tools that cost much, much more, but which do different things such as provide far higher heats one would ever use on a PCB (up to 1000F), desoldering tools, etc. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Under Construction #5459 - Flux Remover
If you like, you can use flux remover carefully with Q-Tips right where the flux is, DON'T douse the whole board in it! 72s de Alex NS6Y On Apr 14, 2006, at 1:22 PM, Mark RAYBOULD wrote: Just to make the PCBs sparkle, is there any reason why I should not spray a completed PCB with a Flux Remover/PCB Cleaner. I have not used one in the past for the K1 or KX1 builds, but as the K2 task is slightly bigger, it would keep everything spic-and-span. Comments welcome. 72s Mark Raybould G3XYS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] I'm In!!!/palm paddles
One possibility is to get the Elecraft paddles for the KX1 and either mounting them on a base or making a bracket or something that allows their use with the K1. 73 de Alex NS6Y On Apr 14, 2006, at 2:03 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Many thanks to all who responded to my post. There are plenty of options to mull over on the paddles. First things first, I guess. Now is the time to clear the bench and dust off the scope. 73s and Happy Easter -Pete wd4lst NAQCC 363 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] LED light
The LED light in the KX1 is red, and will not allow you to read color codes. That is not its purpose. 73 de Alex NS6Y ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] LED light
OK maybe I goofed, I thought it was red to prevent destroying night vision. 73 de Alex nS6y The LED light in the KX1 is red, and will not allow you to read color codes. That is not its purpose. 73 de Alex NS6Y My LED (map reading) light on the front side is very bright white. It works very well for color recognition. Geoff, K6TFZ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Color code help?
I use an Ott-Lite, an even-spectrum light sold in art and office supply stores, great for kitbuilding and taking photos of small stuff too. In a pinch, a white LED light is also a very good light source - at worst some of them seem slightly bluish, most of the time the problem with lighting is too much yellow. I also swear by having a dependable meter (fluke) and my AADE LC Meter for those cap and inductor jobs. The LC meter is a very easy kit, and costs $100, $130 or so if you order it built. When in doubt, check that part! 73 de Alex NS6Y On Apr 10, 2006, at 1:57 AM, ron_w wrote: Hi, I just made a discovery today that might help others having difficulty identifying color code bands on resistors and the like...especially if you aren't working in natural lighting conditions. Go buy one of those dinky LED torches and shine that on the resistorsit makes the colors *really* stand out..far more so than a normal torch. FWIW Cheers...Ron ZL1TW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAF2, KDSP2 or BMF2
Glad you posted this, it's a FB handy household hint to save hearing! 73 de Alex NS6Y On Apr 6, 2006, at 11:01 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: Look at these commercial operators at work for examples of what Jim is talking about: http://www.radiomarine.org/historic-5.html Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Michael, A lot of us older hams developed the habit of wearing our cans (as the headphones were known) a bit in front of our ears when working CW. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KAF2 or KDSP2 for K2 #5287
To me that's like saying The MFJ antenna analyzer has given me nothing but trouble therefore I won't buy ANY antenna analyzer. I won't go into what company I think is gradually buying Ten-Tec as their founders die off.. Alex. On Apr 6, 2006, at 3:10 AM, Tom Althoff wrote: It depends on how you operate Alexander.My experience with the Ten-Tec Orion's DSP as well as external audio DSP's on the K2 convinced me not to buy the KDSP2 option for the K2.Tom K2TA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] WA3WSJ Red Hot Vertical - Backpacker's Special!
Sir, you are my hero, since you are not just talking about designing antennas, you are designing 'em. Let me know your web site or something when this is ready for prime time, I may well buy one! 73 de Alex NS6Y On Apr 6, 2006, at 6:27 PM, Edward R. Breneiser wrote: Hello all! I'm very excited about this vertical as hiking season is here. I'm still in the prove-in stage, but it looks very promising. I have a vertical antenna system that should weigh-in around 7oz excluding the coax on 40m, 30m and 20m with SWRs around 1.5 or so. Today I just added some 15m components and it looks good on 15m too. It looks like I'll use a separate radiator for 15m and 10m. So I now have a small lightweight vertical for the trail that plays on 40m,30m,20m,15m and 10m. All the pieces fit in a small baggie and weigh-in around 9oz for 5-band operation! This vertical is designed to hang from a tree etc. More to come soon as I now look to further refine the system. Oh yes - no tuner needed! One last item before I head up to watch TV, don't forget to look for N7UN, NU3E and WA3WSJ operating from the AT in NJ next Saturday and Sunday morning. We plan to hike inside the Delaware Water Gap and play radio. I'll be testing my Red Hot Vertical during the hike. 72, Ed, WA3WSJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 #2
Got it today, United Parcel Slingers damaged one corner of the outer box a little but the inner's perfect, plus I got some packing peanuts to recycle (I'm a recycling fool) and this came at 10AM! I'd have gotten right on it already except I have some antenna fiddling to do first and other stuff. Whoohoo build time! 73 de Alex NS6Y ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] WTB Norcal BLT Tuner or Similar
You know, Elecraft makes a NEAT little tuner that's smaller and lighter than anything, puts the Emtech, BLT, etc in the dark. Literally as small and light as a pack of ciggies. I'd get one of those. 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Apr 3, 2006, at 7:28 PM, Richard Powers wrote: I am looking for an external tuner for my Elecraft K1 preferably for 10 thru 40 meters while out camping. 73, Dick WB9PWQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KXB3080 Manual - minor mistake but important for newbies?
Weller WTCPT baby! Read the solder tutorial on the Elecraft site, it's the best I've seen anywhere! 73 de Alex NS6Y On Apr 3, 2006, at 11:34 AM, Martin Gillen wrote: I was just going out to buy equipment to build this when I noticed: Fine-tip temperature-controlled ESD-safe soldering station with 700 to 800°F tip (370-430°C). Recommend a spade tip approx. 0.05 (0.13 mm) wide. Do not use a high-wattage iron or soldering gun since this can damage pads, traces, or the parts themselves. I know it's minor but 0.05 is more like 1.3mm than 0.13mm... Looking forward to getting my 80m on the air! 73 Martin. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] My new K2
You sure as heck aren't in California! 73 de Alex NS6Y On Apr 2, 2006, at 1:56 PM, n3drk wrote: Its 81 degrees outside. Put the kit away till next winter and go out and plant some azaleas. john ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] high altitude solder
I need to trot right up to NASA up the street and ask to trade my recently acquired 50 rolls of Kester 44 for some of that HAHA, I saw these messages about high altitude solder last night and never heard of anything so dumb! April Fool's! 73 de Alex NS6Y On Apr 2, 2006, at 8:23 AM, Jeremiah McCarthy wrote: Kester 44HA will be available at any NASA facility commissary in the near future...The crew returning from the space station this week brought back 5,000 1 pound rolls that were taken up there in order to out-gas them for high altitude use...Prices will be high... ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement
Meanwhile my dumb atomic clock has decided it doesn't believe in this stuff either, right now I have it on mountain time to keep it ahead an hour of where it was. Is WWV/WWVH not sending info that accounts for daylight savings time any more? 73 de Alex NS6Y On Apr 2, 2006, at 8:48 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Kevin Rock [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: If the April 28, 2005, Indiana state legislation stands up, on April 2, 2006, Indiana will no longer be counted as one of three states which do not Spring ahead from standard to daylight saving time or Fall back from daylight to standard six months later. The Indiana Legislature voted to approve Daylight Saving Time for Indiana and to petition the US Department of Transporation to hold hearings to determine the location of the dividing line between the Eastern and Central time zones, relative to Indiana. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement
I just put mine on Mountain time, if I find it an hour fast later I'll just put it back on Pacific time. Thanks for the answers all! 73 de Alex NS6Y. On Apr 2, 2006, at 3:36 PM, John R. Lonigro wrote: Mine has a bug in the DST function. I disable that feature and then do what Alexandra does to make it read properly in the Spring/Summer. John AA0VE ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] 30-80 module for the kx1
I was told on the weekend by a guy who just built one, they they need to change the toroids in the 3080 module, the present one lowers the KX1's power to 2W across the bands. Is this true? My kx1 comes tomorrow, with the 3080 backordered, and I don't mind, I'm sure Elecraft will come up with some new version that increases output across the bands hihi! 73 de Alex NS6Y ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] kx1 weak recieve
I noticed myself that going back and forth between bands and peaking and re-peaking, seemed to get things dialed in well. 73 de Alex NS6Y On Mar 28, 2006, at 7:20 PM, tom martin wrote: hello to all. I have made the first peaking adjustments on my Kx1. I do get a peak on recieve but it seems to be low in sensitivity. Is this normal for the first adjustment cycle? looking for a specific way to verify if there is an issue? Any suggestions would be helpful.. thanks. Tom km4cu ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] kx1 weak recieve
On Mar 29, 2006, at 2:58 PM, Alexandra Carter wrote: I didn't test for sensitivity, and I could have at least made relative measurements. I guess this is what the XG1 is for, and that's especially good since it's a dead-stable calibrated source. And I sold mine. And I want another one now. time to write a check to Elecraft. I'll get the XG2. My understanding of the peaking is, you're using antenna noise to do the peaking, so by definition a good peak means it's more sensitive on receive. So, weak on receive must mean in comparison to something else. For me, the something else was an FT-817, which hears stuff the KX1 doesn't. Breaking news, it's got a pre-amp, and I understand has a pretty hot little receiver. I don't think the KX1's receiver is going to make anyone give up their full-sized modern rig for receiver duty. I think the KX1 is a milder receiver, which means you're more likely to hear the folks who can hear you too. I think the proper way to go about this is to look up the specs on the KX1 and see how many uVolts this thing is supposed to be able to pick up in the different bands, then using a signal generator or XG2 etc., see if your KX1 performs to spec. You have me interested in doing this also, and I have my KX1 #2 (sold the first one, sadly) coming in the mail any day now. 73 de Alex NS6Y PS - Prior proper preparation prevents piss-poor performance! When in doubt, Peak! On Mar 29, 2006, at 2:42 PM, tom martin wrote: Alex, thanks for getting back to me. I do get a definite peak on both bands, but it sounds weak on recieve. Do you remember a difference in sensitivity or an increase in sensitivity after completing the radio and re peaking, or was it the same ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] LP-100 Digital Vector Wattmeter kit
If I were you, I'd not expect much enthusiasm until I listed some prices and how to order on the web page, I'd have one on order already if this were the case. 73 de Alex NS6Y On Mar 25, 2006, at 7:17 PM, Larry Phipps wrote: Just a reminder that Monday is the last day to get a guaranteed slot in the first production run of these unique kits. To order (or just peruse) visit www.telepostinc.com. 73, Larry N8LP ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] LP-100 Digital Vector Wattmeter kit
OK looks like it's down there, in the grass. but there. Im more interested in the handheld unit, - at least the seller is right regarding PayPal, charge an extra fee, PayNotYourPal only wants 10% of all you make now, and 100% of all you have next week! 74 de NS6Y Alex. On Mar 25, 2006, at 8:25 PM, Vic K2VCO wrote: Alexandra Carter wrote: If I were you, I'd not expect much enthusiasm until I listed some prices and how to order on the web page I found it at http://www.telepostinc.com/lp100.html, etc. Click the links above the pictures of the units. Very interesting. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] LP-100 Digital Vector Wattmeter kit
OK that's OK, I have some Elecraft stuff to build! I put a credit card order in to Universal Radio over a week ago, and a mailed-in order with a personal check in to Elecraft in yesterday's mail - which do you think Ill have in my hands first? I'm betting the Elecraft order will be here and built by the time I find out what's happened to my money at Universal Radio, much less have thing thing I ordered, if I get it from them. Once my 2nd KX1 etc is built, I can look at watt meters 73 de Alex NS6Y On Mar 25, 2006, at 9:20 PM, Larry Phipps wrote: The handheld unit will be for sale shortly. I will be showing both at Dayton, BTW. I haven't been assigned a booth number yet, but I'll post it when I have. I'll also be at QRP-ARCI vendor night with the handheld unit. There's also link to a comparison page with a good comparison of the three wattmeter products. 73, Larry N8LP ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Heat strippable enamel wire
In my experience, it's ALL heat strippable! Your mileage and smells may vary! 73 de Alex NS6Y On Mar 24, 2006, at 12:17 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Before I go and order the wrong thing, can someone tell me a Mouser or Dig-Key (or other) reference number for heat strippable enamel covered wire similar to that which is provided with the Elecraft kits. Thanks, Tom, WB2QDG K2 1103 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 and KXB3080 build
I'm really close to getting one too, the K2 was just more complicated than I wanted to get involved with, but I was walking around Half Moon Bay last Sunday and thinking, how nice it would be to sit under a tree and make some contacts, on a KX1. That rig had it all, all in one box. My first KX1 build, I built the tuner and 30m module and then set them aside, then built the rig, tested, then added the modules and tested. The only hitch in the whole thing was the 30m module, I don't know what I did wrong but I put the wrong wire the wrong place somewhere, and ended up just removing it and re-installing from scratch. Then the rig worked. 73 de Alex NS6Y On Mar 23, 2006, at 9:39 PM, AI4EJ wrote: Gang- My tools have arrived, the KX1 sits in its box, already inventoried, waiting to be put together. The KX1 manual says to build it without the options to aid in any troubleshooting and to get familiar with the rig. After reading a downloaded copy of the KXB3080 manual, I'm thinking I'd be better off doing them both at once to avoid the rework. Any thoughts, comments or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks and 73, Ricardo AI4EJ __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 build - Control board Resistor SIPs not marked right.
Yes, inventorying is a very good idea, and sometimes there are parts of the same value but of two different types, like a regular 25pF cap and an NPO one that's the same value, to be used in different areas. The resistors are taken care of with the K2, no problems there, but there are a lot of other parts. I found good old antistatic foam to be great for sticking the parts in, I had all my caps by value smallest to largest, etc., they the parts stick up in it so they're easy to pick up. 73 de Alex NS6Y On Mar 20, 2006, at 2:13 PM, Fred Jensen wrote: Ian Stirling wrote: The most important step in my opinion is to do a full inventory, at the same time partitioning components that look similar to separate marked locations. I strongly second Ian's inventory comment, and his reasons for doing it. It's a bit of a drag, and we all want to heat up the solder station and start the real building, but a complete inventory will likely prevent micro, mini, and mega disasters. Also, beware of inadvertently mixing up a part value with a reference designator, there are a lot of words in the assembly instruction book, and nearly all of them are important! (e.g., and speaking from experience, starting to install C25 and fetching a 25pf cap for it when the real value is 15pf) Fred K6DGW Auburn CA CM98lw ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Broken core
I'd NOT use super-glue, sheesh!! It amazes me how people think this stuff is a cure-all. It gets brittle, outgasses, and I'd not let it anywhere near any beautiful Elecraft product! I'd use J-B Weld, which is a very strong epoxy glue and should make the core good as new. 2nd choice is just regular old 2-part epoxy glue. 73 de Alex NS6Y On Mar 15, 2006, at 6:20 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: While winding the cores on my KPA100, I pulled too hard on the wire and broke one in the low pass filters. I ordered a replacement from Elecraft. I continued assembly as far as I could. After staring sadly at the three core pieces, I thought of super-gluing the core back together. My thought was to replace the repaired core with the replacement part when I receive it. I fixed the broken core and finished assembly. Gluing it back together was easy, but getting my fingers appart was a trick. I think these things are just metal filings glued together anyway. Is there any reason that the repaired core would have to be replaced? Rich - KE1EV ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Desoldering and installing the KX1 3080 option
In my experience, desoldering irons come with a tip, and the one they come with fits at least 99% of the desoldering jobs you'll encounter - of course you can order other ones for unusual jobs, but the one that comes with it will be just about perfect. 73 de Alex NS6Y --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Having had several harrowing desoldering experiences over my kit building career, I read with interest the posts on the Hakko 808 - I'm on the verge of ordering one on the spot. But I have a question to anyone who has used one, especially if you've used to install your 3080 option: Does the unit come with the right tip, or do you need to order an extra? I've found a number of good internet sites to buy it, but none mention what tip if any it ships with. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Desoldering and installing the KX1 3080 option
When all else fails, if you can melt the solder, pull out the part while keeping the solder hot and melted (keep the iron on the component pin while pulling igently/i on the part to be removed) then clean up the hole with a little braid, you're good. This is how I installed my 30m module, twice! 73 de Alex NS6Y On Mar 14, 2006, at 8:39 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: That was a spring-loaded desoldering pump, not a squeeze bulb or braid. I'm not saying that one might not do the job with a bulb or braid, but Wayne was quite clear and I agree that the safest route is to use a good spring-loaded desoldering pump. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
