[Elecraft] KPA100 SWR Bridge Issue

2016-06-22 Thread Curt Milton via Elecraft
Before I dismantle this thing one more time, curious if any sage info is 
available --
I noticed that with a dummy load plugged in, and operating at 5 watts -- I get 
a reasonable power reading but SWR is around 10:1.  It does not change at all 
as I tweak C1.  both outputs from the op amp are reading around 1 volt more or 
less.  both diodes are reading okay with my DVM.  both pots have been adjusted 
for 43k ohms per the instruction.  

maybe I damaged C1 is disassembly, or I don't have the windings connected to 
the PC board - but DVM affirms conductivity so at least one is attached.  yes I 
realize not much in this network, yet something is astray.  (no surprise that 
sensing a high SWR that the KPA won't do high power?)

73 Curt
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Re: [Elecraft] spectrogram no signal

2011-04-14 Thread Curt Milton
Even without an input (antenna QRN or a noise diode) you should see the noise 
from your sound card's ADC.  Nothing at all on the plot equates to me to the 
settings being off, so I suggest patiently following N0SS's instructions on 
EVERY setting.  


Also understand that the Spectrogram does need to know which input (line or 
microphone) is getting the audio, and you need to adjust the 'audio slider' 
your 
PC provides in 'software.'  


It may not be your OS - but I myself still use XP.  

73 Curt

 
- Original Message 
From: John Cooper w...@gt.rr.com
To: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wed, April 13, 2011 8:50:58 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] spectrogram no signal

OK I finally downloaded the free spectrogram ver 5.17 running on windows 7 it 
comes up set like on NOSS site says too have a noise generator hooked up to 
antenna.  Headphone jack to line in jack on computer can hear noise thru 
speakers.  But nothing shows up on spectrogram just white screen.  Tried 
running 
in compatibility mode for win 95 xp and vista.  any ideas?

WT5Y
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 keying question

2011-04-13 Thread Curt Milton
Perhaps you just acquired a K2 ?  If so, the first thing to check is the menu 
setting regarding the type of input the K2 is expected.  


Go to menu -- look for InP - now press and hold the menu key and there are 
three 
settings --
PdLn -- for a paddle to use the built-in keyer
PdLr -- same, except dit and dah are reversed on the paddle
HAnd -- this is for a straight key or direct keying input from an external keyer

If you lack a manual, download it from Elecraft ... or if you problem is more 
complex provide a little more info for the list, such as whether this is a 
'failure' or your learning to use a real nice rig.  


73 Curt




- Original Message 
From: Ian Liston-Smith ian...@hotmail.co.uk
To: Elecraft List elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wed, April 13, 2011 4:24:36 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 keying question


Two questions - both may be due to incorrect set up so please bear with me...

1) Just tried to use the K2 and first key stroke put it into tx mode and would 
not 'un-key' unless switched off and switched back on. I found that once re-set 
in this way, if I changed the mode switch to something else then to CW, this 
cleared it and it's now ok. It's not done this before. Any ideas?

2) I have noticed that the first key stroke after switch on produces little if 
any RF for about half a second, or until the next dot or dash. I have often 
noticed this, though put it down to some error in set-up. But since I have now 
just had the first problem, I thought I'd ask about this one now.

Thanks and regards,

Ian, G4JQT
  
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 lifespan

2011-03-25 Thread Curt Milton
Shane

perhaps you are reading that folk are as passionate about their K2's as those 
that have K3's - likely for differing reasons.  If you think about the rigs we 
had 15-20 years ago - both rock!  I have owned a K2 for  10 years, and enjoyed 
operating a K3 twice at field day.  both are rather compact rigs vs. the big 
boxes that many (but not all) contest enthusiasts like.  


to some, whether the rig was built in a factory or your kitchen table doesn't 
matter.  Others of us grew up reading QST when a large percentage of the 
population built their rigs - either from a kit or from parts from a disposed 
TV 
set.  


I figure lifespan of sale will depend upon when Elecraft runs out of parts for 
it, and even then a mixed thru-hole SMT hybrid could be conceived (maybe!).  


I especially enjoy my K2 on CW - the variable crystal filter can be configured 
to act similar to a four-position DSP when well aligned - and the receive audio 
for CW sounds nice and clean.  now that I think about it, the rig I have with 
DSP is almost always set for 300 or 400 Hz when doing CW.  


When 'old technology' has the right virtues it works fine.  

73 Curt


PS - maybe when field day rolls around someone will have an Elecraft rig that 
you can try !  or ask what hams in your local club might have that you could 
try 
on a visit.  




- Original Message 
From: Shane software.research.developm...@gmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wed, March 23, 2011 11:05:05 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 lifespan

Hi,

Hope this list is for questions like this, apologies if not. Never
used an Elecraft, thinking about getting a K2, and was wondering what
people thought about it, especially at this time, 11 years later.
Looks like it came out in 2000? I like the reviews and I don't think
I'm advanced enough for a K3 so, just wanted to hear what others
though about the life on this rig. Will it be replaced anytime soon?

Thanks,
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Re: [Elecraft] Documentation to import k2 kit

2011-03-03 Thread Curt Milton
Jean Michel

If you cannot figure it out, I suggest contacting Elecraft for info - as maybe 
they have already addressed this (in particular if it is a requirement for most 
of Europe and related places).  


The K2 is a nice rig, and of course many will want to make contact with you 
from 
FK.  Also if you email me direct, I will be glad to share from my K2 
building/operating experience

73 Curt WB8YYY



- Original Message 
From: Jean Michel  Marina Dufermon du...@nautile.nc
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thu, March 3, 2011 2:02:26 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Documentation to import k2 kit

Hi

I'm Jean Michel fk8et.
I would like to import a K2 kit.
The french administration who control all the Hams and give 
import permit for transceiver ask me a CE declaration of conformity.
Do you have this document or one similar to prepare my folder.

Your faithfully

73 de jm


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Kit Questions

2011-03-01 Thread Curt Milton
Phil

Others opinions may vary, but here is my experience - a K2 works well without 
DSP.  


Yes you already likely heard a base K2 is all analog.  But note that is has 
this 
feature - the xtal filter bandwidth is programmable.  I literally have mine set 
up for 700, 400, 250 and 100 Hz bandwidth.  After getting these selectable 
filters well centered - it acts a lot like using a DSP filter - and I find it 
provides enough settings for CW.  The filter shapes are not quite as sharp as 
DSP, but still pretty good.  Also with no DSP, the audio is pleasant to listen 
to.  In my opinion, the rig works great with no DSP.  


I also have the SSB filters set to vary from 1.6 kHz upward.  They also work 
pretty well.  Here a DSP filter could help with adjacent frequency interference 
by being sharper.  


If you are planning on all CW, or even mostly CW, I suggest you can do well 
without the DSP.  For many years my K2 was only equipped with 160m and SSB 
options.  


I do use a NESCAF external audio filter for pulling weak signals out on 160 and 
80m.  It has a potentiometer for BW adjustment - which you might prefer over 
the 
internal fixed settings.  


But I have this feeling you might be thrilled enough with using your K3 at QRP 
levels, so you'll have to weigh do you really need this other rig in the shack, 
or for travel when you have a KX1.  You could diversify your 'build' portfolio 
by doing something homebrew and/or another QRP project (hint check Az Scorpions 
and FourState for ideas).    


73 Curt

Gang,  So, I am thinking that another kit is in my future.  I have a K3 and a 
KX1 and I am thinking about the K2.  I would be using it for CW and QRP or 
2*QRP 
only.  So, I wouldn't plan on getting the SSB option and I am not planning on 
the 100 watt PA or the ATU.  But, I do have questions about filters (remember, 
CW usage only).  1.  Question:  is the radio a completely analog radio (no DSP) 
if you DO NOT buy the DSP filter option?  2.  Question:  is the DSP filter 
worth 
the money?  3.  Question:  is the Audio filter useful?  Is the Audio filter 
still useful if I buy the DSP filter?  Any other comments and suggestions are 
definitely accepted.  73, phil, K7PEH  


  
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[Elecraft] K2 XMT Power Meter is Gone

2011-02-22 Thread Curt Milton
My K2 seems to be working fine -- the KAT100 is working, and it is transmitting 
full power.  But there is no power indication on the LED meter, and instead I 
get a high current warning even though all is well.  This just turned up today 
on 'an old K2.'  It is misbehaving at all power levels - woops I just figured 
out the power control does not seem to be working when I am above 'QRP' 
settings.  The rig was only moved a few inches since it was last used.  Has 
anyone else experienced this ?

73 Curt


  
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Re: [Elecraft] What made you decide on purchasing an Elecraft transceiver?

2011-02-22 Thread Curt Milton
While I enjoy having a factory-built rig sitting here, the joy of building and 
operating a rig is literally 'historic' and very gratifying.  By the time I was 
of employment age, Heath was nearly gone.  After assembling a few kits it was 
time to 'pounce.'  The K2 has been a fun adventure - I enjoyed it for years 
before adding the QRO option.  I confess that my 2000-series K2 does have a 
bunch of required jumpers and cut traces - but that is part of the adventure.  
As for contesting, I really like its clear clean receive audio and the very 
fast 
ATU (used for tuning my low band verticals primarily).  


Except for not having 6m 'affordably', the K2 is a nifty rig.  As many of us 
cannot 'afford one of each' from the Elecraft line, I suggest listing your own 
rig requirements to determine which one best fits your interests - literally 
which one you would use the most.  


73 Curt


  
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 not dead yet

2008-04-21 Thread Curt Milton
Brian

Fine on your progress with this fine rig.  I plan to
continue to enjoy my own K2 as the flagship rig of my
station!  

On PSK31 and digital modes -- you don't need to modify
your K2 -- check out the application note posted at
elecraft.com.  essentially all you need is a stereo
cable on receive, a mic connector and a few parts on
transmit, and some means to do the T/R switching.  

The kids will 'resonate' with PSK31 based upon their
other PC experiences.  

Remember to run the K2 at approx half power when doing
the digital modes !!  

I have seen PSK31 at field day, and it tends to be
rather tough in the pile-ups -- so calling CQ may be
preferred if you run QRP-battery/solar.  Meanwhile
PSK31 may be ideal for non-contest operating with your
youth.  

This is NOT the ideal time for QRP-SSB !  You just
might need that amp.  

Do check the calendar for kids-day events, as this may
charm them more than an array of 599 my state-is
reports.  And consider scheds to other schools or
kids.  Here in Maryland, a contact station is KI3DS.  

73, curt



--- Brian Lloyd [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 OK, We just finished the K2 for our school. I was
 planing to teach the  
 kids to solder and wanted a radio that the kids
 could build so I asked  
 the ARRL for the K2 instead of the low-end Ikensu
 (Yaecomwood?) they  
 were offering. I remember how much I learned from
 building Heathkits,  
 Knight kits, and Eico kits as a kid so I thought we
 could do the same  
 with the K2.
 
 Construction took much of the school year (October
 to April) including  
 a few dry spells when I sat after school and slung
 solder just so we  
 would keep making forward progress. (It was a big
 project for 10-13  
 year-old kids.) Regardless, the K2, KSB2, and KNB2
 are finished and on- 
 the-air. The KPA100 is now in the build area and my
 star builders  
 (5th graders who think that soldering is just about
 as much fun as you  
 can have) have just unpacked, taken inventory, and
 soldered the first  
 parts. (I took inventory too and couldn't find the
 output transistors.  
 I darned near tore my hair out until I found the
 drawer where they had  
 been carefully, neatly, and incorrectly stored.) We
 have 5 more weeks  
 of school so we are going to have to push to get the
 KPA100 done,  
 especially with all the other end-of-year projects.
 (I suspect I will  
 have to keep the momentum going. Poor me. :-) I
 think I have said that  
 we will be on the air for Field Day using the K2
 with solar power. I  
 hope to have a couple who will be ready to do some
 slow-and-simple CW  
 QSOs too. Gotta get those multipliers!
 
 I know everyone is dumping their K2s so they can get
 a K3 but, gee- 
 whiz, the K2 is some good receiver. I *love* this
 radio! I have had a  
 LOT of radios come and go in the shack
 (top-of-the-line Kenwood, two  
 sets of Collins S-Line, several Icom, a Yaesu
 station, and a plethora  
 of Heathkits) and I have to say that, so far, I
 think this is my  
 favorite radio, even at just 10W. The only thing it
 is missing (stock)  
 is a good way to do digital modes. (I have seen the
 mod for getting  
 audio out before the audio amp but not sure how well
 it will fit after  
 getting the KPA100 in there.)
 
 So, the K3 looks like a superb radio. I want one.
 But, compared to  
 just about everything else, the K2 is still a
 winner.
 
 (For some reason it keeps following me home on the
 weekends.)
 --
 
 Brian Lloyd Granite Bay
 Montessori
 brian AT gbmontessori DOT com   9330 Sierra
 College Blvd.
 +1.916.367.2131 (voice) Roseville, CA
 95661, USA
 
 http://www.gbmontessori.com
 
 I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny
 of petty things . . .
 — Antoine de Saint-Exupéry
 
 PGP key ID:  12095C52A32A1B6C
 PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0  CC09
 1209 5C52 A32A 1B6C
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] ARRL CW DX

2008-02-18 Thread Curt Milton
Lenny, 

nice work with your K2.  i enjoyed the event with a
K2/100 (that previously enjoyed similar contests QRP
before its 'upgrade').  the low bands especially are
in nice shape, even for modest stations - and I even
worked VP6DX on 15m from the east coast with only a
vertical.  

at least one of the ops at PZ5WW is K8DD, a K2-user. 
prior to event on thursday nite he was running QRP
from his K2 on 40 and 20 meters.  hint -- look for
some of these visiting DX ops lingering today after
the contest.  

73, Curt

--- w2bvh [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 70 Q's, 42 countries, 12 watts with K2 1520 and a
 130 ft cf zepp. Not 
 exactly QRP, but with sunspots the way they are I'm
 willing to stretch a 
 point. One of the countries was new for me: PZ5WW. 
 Lots of band noise 
 on all bands. Coudn't break *any* pileups at all.
 When the sunspots were 
 up I could break 60-70% at 5-10 watts. Even so it
 was fun. Did about 5 
 hours total.
 
 73,
 Lenny W2BVH
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Re: [Elecraft] Power 160M

2008-01-29 Thread Curt Milton
David

In addition to the other comments, you antenna may be
a factor.  If you have a dummy load (if not try to
make one that can handle 5 watts or so) try it.  If
your K2 is not operating into a reasonable match, of
course it will limit the transmit output to protect
the power transistors.  If all is well with the load,
then check your 160 board as suggested.  The low power
output of my K2 will output 5 or more watts into a
2.5:1 match (that I used to run before i upgraded my
tuner).  In my case the KPA100 is less forgiving,
requireing a better match on 160m, FYI.  

73, curt

--- David N. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hi all
 I Noticed that during the cq 160m contest this
 weekend
 that I could not get more than 4 watts out of my K2
 The Requested power goes up to 15.2 of course but I
 cannot get more than 4 and on the first transmit I
 get
 a momentary Hi current. My power supply is steady on
 voltage and current. I switched the display on the
 K2
 to display V/I and the voltage drops on transmit and
 the current goes up to about 2.4. This is within the
 Cal Current range. Now on 40 meters it is fine it
 puts
 out 14 watts. same with 30m. I haven't tried the
 other
 bands. Also the Requested power on 160m does not
 match
 at any request of power through out the range from
 lowest to highest. Is this connected?
 Thanks
 David KR4OW 
 K2 4320
 
 
  


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Re: [Elecraft] KFL1-4 wishes

2008-01-27 Thread Curt Milton
Chris

FB on your band collection.  While I remember some at
ARRL HQ were trading 2-band modules back and forth
when the K1 was 'new' -- it wasnt designed for that
kinda band changing.  If you really want to qrp on
80m, maybe another QRP project is in order.  But no
kit single banders come to mind that will output 5w. 
Or if you have a qro rig, crank the power down to qrp.
 Or explore something homebrew.  The K1 does seem like
a nifty rig for portable operation, but sounds like
you enjoy yours from home.  

73, curt
 
--- Christopher A. Kantarjiev [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 Even though I'm sure that design work for the K1 is
 pretty far from almost everyone's mind...
 
 I've got a new-to-me K1 (s/n 735) and it's got both
 4-band (40/30/20/15) and 2-band (80/17) boards. 
 Those are pretty good combinations at a higher point
 in the solar cycle - but right now, I find that 
 40 dies in the early evening and I want to switch to
 80. So I have to remove the KAT1 and band 
 module and swap and fiddle with the standoffs...
 
 It sure would be nice to have a 4-band module that
 covers 80/40/30/20.
 
 It also would be nice if those standoffs were
 threaded on one end - I'm probably going to make
 that 
 change.
 
 Overall though, it's a really neat little radio!
 
 73 de chris K6DBG
 
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[Elecraft] K2 Aux Bus - DC Bias at 9pin Connector ?

2008-01-26 Thread Curt Milton
I am still troubleshooting my KAT100, and now I am
wondering if the problem might be the aux bus.  

When the 9-pin connector is attached to the K2, and
the KAT100 is disconnected - should there be 5-6 volts
DC on pin 6 ?  I see voltages on pin 8 and 9, but
nothing on pin 6.  (And yes i verified the cable is ok
on pin 6).  

I had previously checked the DC path from pin 6 back
to the IOC in the K2 - but I hadn't probed this any
further.  

I suspect there are no other users of the Aux Bus
except an ATU (my K2 has only ssb, 160m and kpa100
installed).  

Info appreciated.  


  

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Aux Bus - DC Bias at 9pin Connector ?

2008-01-26 Thread Curt Milton
Don

Thanks - that was the hint i needed to sort out the
maze of connectors.  

Yes it was open from KAT100 U1 pin 40 to K2 Control
Board P4 pin 2.  So i opened the K2 and laid
everything flat -- each board was ok.  I powered up
and it came to life.  I suspect the ribbon cable
between the K2 control board and KPA100 was pinched. 
I carefully put it together and all is well now.  

Thanks again for your help, and verifying voltage on
your own K2.  

73, Curt K2 #2117

--- Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Curt,
 
 All options use the Auxbus - your KSB2, the KPA100
 and even the KIOC 
 chip inside the K2 use th eAUXBUS.  If the K2 is
 working normally when 
 the KAT100 is attached, then the AUXBUS signal is
 working.
 
 What is the problem with the KAT100?  If it is not
 recognized in the K2 
 menu, then the KAT100 firmware chip is not
 communicating with the K2 
 (yes, it uses the AUXBUS for that).  Be certain all
 pins of the KAT100 
 firmware chip socket are soldered (did you miss
 soldering pin 1? - that 
 often happens).  Connect the cable to the KAT100
 (turn power off) and 
 check continuity from KAT100 U1 pin 40 to K2 Control
 Board P4 pin 2 - 
 somewhere near 470 ohms is expected.
 
 If all the above is correct, the KAT100 firmware
 should be communicating 
 with the K2.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 
 Curt Milton wrote:
  I am still troubleshooting my KAT100, and now I am
  wondering if the problem might be the aux bus.  
 
  When the 9-pin connector is attached to the K2,
 and
  the KAT100 is disconnected - should there be 5-6
 volts
  DC on pin 6 ?  I see voltages on pin 8 and 9, but
  nothing on pin 6.  (And yes i verified the cable
 is ok
  on pin 6).  
 
  I had previously checked the DC path from pin 6
 back
  to the IOC in the K2 - but I hadn't probed this
 any
  further.  
 
  I suspect there are no other users of the Aux Bus
  except an ATU (my K2 has only ssb, 160m and kpa100
  installed).  
 
  Info appreciated.  
 
 
   


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 and PSK

2008-01-22 Thread Curt Milton
Jim

PSK is an enjoyable change of pace, and an effective
mode for low power/modest antenna operation.  It is a
great conversational mode (and to boot one can listen
to music while having QSO's!).  

Since processing is done in the PC, you generally want
to give the PC the full audio passband - meaning you
use your widest filter to see as much spectrum as
possible on the waterfall screen.  So you will use the
wide SSB filter that comes on the KSB2 and bypass the
audio filtering.  

Frequency diversity is a good thing for PSK as well -
the last few days there has been PSK activity on 20,
30, 40 and 80m.  

Hint -- there is an app note on the Elecraft site for
wiring up your own PSK interface.  

73, Curt

--- Jim Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I'm considering adding KSB2 to do some PSK. The $99
 price seems very good to 
 add an allband capability rather than something like
 a Warbler.
 
 Is there any reason to get a KDSP2 for PSK purposes
 rather than the KAF2 
 which I already have?
 
 No microphone in my plans...
 
 73
 
 jim ab3cv 
 
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[Elecraft] KAT100 Initial Test Failure

2008-01-21 Thread Curt Milton
I am at step 1 of KAT100 testing.  When K2 is turned
on, indicators default to Ant 1 and Low Power.  I cant
get them to change, as my ATU is unrecognized.  I am
using latest firmware.  I have traced the Aux bus from
my K2/100 board all the way into the KAT100.  I
reflowed all the solder joints at the MCU, and even
replaced the MCU.  When the K2 goes into transmit the
4 MHz clock does appear.  I am lost as to how to
proceed.  Has anyone run into a similar malady?  I
didn't try taking off the front panel board, but I
think I have tried everything else.  How do I know my
K2 is producing a useful aux bus to communicate with
the KAT100 ?  My K2 is #2117 - yes I did modify the
resistor required on the K2 control board.  



  

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Song

2008-01-15 Thread Curt Milton
Craig

Don't quit your day job (even if Clint Black is a
close relative) !  

Even though my KAT100 doesn't work yet, I am not
singing the blues or one of those teary CW songs ...
I am working DX on the low bands with my humble
antennas attached to my K2 !  

Building (including winding those cores) is part of
the fun ... when you have another rig to use in the
mean time.  

I am not fretting (pun intended) lack of sunspots, or
not having $$ to buy a K3 ... its K2 (or K1 or KX1)
time for those not enjoying the latest rig.  

73, curt

--- Craig Black [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 With apologies to Mr Buffett and Parrot Heads
 everywhere (I've got Boats to Build).
 Listen to the song while you build your Elecraft and
 check out these words.
 
 I got Kits to build
 
 It's time for a change 
 I'm tired of that same ol same 
 The same ol rigs the same ol dynes 
 The same ol bands and the same ol times 
 
 Parts many parts 
 Inventory is not much fun 
 I got leads to bend I got caps to find
 I got logs to fill I got lists to run
 
 I'm gonna build me a kit
 With these two hands 
 It'll be a fine rig 
 From an Elecraft man
 Let the chips fall where they will 
 Cause I've got kits to build 
 
 FETs are just like tubes 
 Too much gain can make em sing 
 Logs of DX  from a rare zone
 Logs of contacts far from home
 I'm gonna build me a kit 
 With these two hands 
 It'll be a fine rig 
 From an Elecraft man 
 Let the chips fall where they will 
 Cause I've got kits to build 
 
 Cores ferrite cores 
 Torrid winding is a chore
 Lighted magnifier to guide the way 
 Solder through night into the day
 
 I'm gonna build me a kit 
 With these two hands 
 It'll be a fine rig 
 From an Elecraft man 
 Let the chips fall where they will 
 Cause I've got kits to build
 
 
 DE W8HQ 
 
 
 
  


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 #6358 Build Begins

2008-01-10 Thread Curt Milton
Tony

very FB.  a lot of us took the K2 plunge to enjoy the
building experience, and using a fine radio we built
afterwards.  focus on getting the correct parts in
place and making good solder joints - and do the
intermediate checkouts.  when part ID is confusing ask
for help.  make sure your tools are up to the job.  

i enjoyed my stock/QRP K2 for many years on various
modes.  be glad yours has the mods built-in as my
older K2 has a bunch of jumper wires.  see where your
journey takes you with yours.  

73, curt
K2 #2117 (SSB/160m/100w+KAT100 in progress)


--- Tony Parker [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hello Elecrafters!
 
 I began the build of K2 s/n 6358 today.
 
 I have been QRT for the last 25+ years due to career
 and family.  Now  
 that
 both are at the stage where I have more free time,
 it seemed like the  
 perfect
 time to get active again.
 
 Since I have been mostly a cw operator since first
 licensed in 1967,   
 I began
 looking for a no compromise cw radio.  After much
 googling for radio  
 reviews,
 the K2 stood out due to the feature set and the
 passion of the owners.
 The K2 seemed like a can't miss (especially
 considering the price/ 
 performance).
 
 My initial impression is that this isn't your
 father's Heathkit:
 They sure shrunk the parts!
 
 
 Tony
 
 ke6g
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Mojo

2007-12-14 Thread Curt Milton
I appreciate being able to fire up my K2 and enjoy
whatever HF operating suits the moment.  I can't say
its clearly superior to other rig choices that could
be in my shack, but it is there, and I assembled it
myself.  Original motivation was to experience the
build, and use it as a QRP supplement to my higher
powered rig.  Then i discovered an interest in
low-band DX - i wanted a rig with a receiver 'at least
as good as a K2.'  Well the other options were less
affordable than upgrading my K2 (and I already knew
how to use it, so i thought).  So I am enjoying 80m
propagation (which is quite interesting) with my
K2/100 and a modest vertical.  And I decided it's time
for an autotuner for more seamless operating in the
next contest (particularly on 80m where CW spectral
use does expand up the band).  Nice the same rig can
QRP, as we have enjoyed using K2's in FD battery class
(we had 4 available last year, and now another
participant has built a K2 so now there are 5 around
representing 3-digit thru the latest serial numbers.  

Yes a list that was once merely people who soldered
their rigs together has expanded a bit.  In 2008 the
K3 matters should settle down a bit, and folk will
continue to use and advance their K2's.  These rigs
are 'merely' windows into enjoying what propagation
(and what antennas we can deploy) allows.  So those of
us with mere K2's or K1's or KX1's can continue to
thrive.  

73, curt

--- Goody K3NG [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I was away from this reflector for several years
 after I built my K1 
 (#505), just due to email volume and other things
 going on.  I returned 
 recently when I heard of the K3.  Several years ago
 there were a lot of 
 mojo posts that gave you a warm, fuzzy feeling
 inside.  You'd hear of 
 folks' first QSOs with a K1 or K2 or the gazillion
 miles per watt 
 contacts or just everyday yet memorable contacts. 
 You could feel the mojo.
 
 Does your rig and the operator on that key or mic
 still have that mojo?  
 Let's hear about.
 
 72
 Goody
 
 -- 
 Blog: http://thek3ngreport.blogspot.com/
 
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[Elecraft] KAT100 with Ladder Line

2007-11-15 Thread Curt Milton
I admit I enjoyed using a KAT100 at FD, but I wonder
how much value it would be at my station.  

For feeding my wire antenna with balanced line, I
suspect I need an external balun, that has to go
someplace, and better to be attached to one of the
tuner inputs.  Currently I use a manual MFJ tuner
(with its internal 4:1 balun) to operate my wire
antenna on 30, 40, 80 and 160m.  I can imagine the
autotuner being useful here, but I can't envision the
balun to use and how to attach it to the KAT100.  

My other antennas are 2 multiband verticals (80/40 and
20/17/15/12/10), and these are nicely matched where I
operate - so not much utility for the KAT100 here.  

So will a KAT100 make my QSY more seamless, and what
balun to use and how to integrate it ?

73, curt



  

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Re: [Elecraft] any suggestions? cheap qrp xcvr kits

2007-08-27 Thread Curt Milton
Doug

part of the choice may be whether you want to build
the unit yourself vs. buying something someone else
already built to operate with.  

if you truly want to experience building the rig, it
will limit your choices.  

TT1300-series.  looks great on paper, good value over
all.  i have a 1340 - here are the limitations:

(1) the xtals in the kit are not well matched, so your
filter may be a bit wider than some other rigs.  

(2) the parts placement of the transmitter output
matching circuitry is not ideal.  check N5ESE's
website for how to address this.  i found there is one
ferrite transformer involved, and its positioning 
orientation relative to the other inductors is the
most critical (in my experience).  

(3) the PA bias network is not ideal, but it can be
fixed

(4) the single FET mixer in the receiver is cute but
not the highest performance.  it does work though.  

(5) the final assembly design of the rig is a pain if
you have to dissemble it for mods or debugging.  

the bottom line is the TenTec won't work well as
readily as a more refined kit, but with patience it
can be a decent rig.  

note some choices suggested are direct conversion -
great for a building experience but not as fun to use
on congested bands.  

if you really expect to do some portable operating,
rethink your expenditure into a simple rig vs. a K1 or
KX1.  

73, curt

--- DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hi all:
 
 I am looking for an inexpensive qrp transceiver kit
 (monoband if fine)
 and I would appreciate some suggestions.  I do not
 want to be
 rock-bound.
 
 I'm looking at the Ten Tec 13xx series adn the MFJ
 Cub (93xxK series).
  Both are under $100.  The keying waveform on the
 MFJ (as per ARRL
 review) looks like key click city to me (looks to be
 zero rise/fall
 time).
 
 Any comments on these radios?  Any other
 suggestions?
 
 Thanks!
 de Doug KR2Q
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 option almost done...

2007-08-16 Thread Curt Milton
FB on your progress.  I built mine a few months ago
and really enjoy operating the rig.  

I suspect the power variation you cite is merely
thermodynamics.  Did you happen to touch the finals
key down?  

The VSWR sensor likely needs tweaking per the manual
instructions - mine recognizes a match pretty
accurately.  

My built-in speaker sounds dreadful as well !  I
wonder if its the impact of the metal shield ?  It is
especially sour sounding on CW, SSB is not quite as
bad.  If you do remove the shield, see how the speaker
sounds.  I figure the shield is to keep it from
becoming a receiver at 100 watts, and thumping on CW?

Proceed with care and enjoy the extra 8 dB gain in
output power.  

73, curt

--- Steve Kallal [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Well after about a month, I almost have my KPA100
 option finished for the
 K2. I didn't accurately time the hours, but I think
 it is in the 25 hour
 region. This is the first serious kit I've built in
 years and the most
 serious ever. I had only one mistake to correct. U7,
 the dual op amp, was
 reversed. Once that got replaced, the amp came to
 life.
  
 I have a couple of issues left, minor ones.
  
 1. The power does seem to vary a little bit on key
 down, nothing major, but
 a few percent before the power level settles. The
 TUNE function indicates
 1.5:1 SWR into a dummy load. Perhaps I need to go
 back and retweak the SWR
 setting.
  
 2. The speaker sounds like the cone is bad. I
 ordered a bunch of parts from
 Elecraft, but the speaker slipped my mind. I will
 need to remove the shield
 if the speaker gets replaced. Does the adhesive
 comes loose easily?
  
 Thanks for all help from this reflector!
  
 73,
  
 Steve N6VL
  
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Re: [Elecraft] operating question about K2 pre-amp/attenuator

2007-08-14 Thread Curt Milton
Matt

asking questions is a good thing.  2 great answers
already posted.  here is the 'punch line':

for 80, 40 and 30m i suggest you turn the preamp off. 
(to confirm, with your antenna matched to the rig -
tune in a weak signal and verify that preamp makes no
difference here in detecting the signal, and receiver
will have more dynamic range)

for 20m and up - turn the preamp on, and leave it
unless you get obvious 'thumping' from nearby large
signals.  (up here atmospheric noise is less so we
benefit from the preamp).  

you may rarely need to change these settings - but be
aware of the opportunity.  enjoy your rig!  

73, curt

--- Matthew Denson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hi All,
 
 My operating experience is fairly limited, so I have
 a question about operating the K2.
 
 What circumstances would cause one to turn off the
 pre-amp? And related, what circumstances would cause
 one to turn on the attenuator?  Even my old FT-101
 had an attenuator to switch in, but I never came
 across a situation where I thought I'd want to.
 
 73, Matthew AE6UP
 
 
 
 



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Re: [Elecraft] 6M

2007-07-20 Thread Curt Milton
Julius, 

domestic SSB: 50.125 (calling freq) and up

CW: 50.100 and down is typical.  (below 50.080 listen
for CW beacons)

DX window 50.110 (DX calling freq) - 50.125.  

hint - when 10m has very short, strong e-skip it often
means 6m is open for business.  

73, curt

--- J F [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Having never ever been on 6 meters, would some kind
 soul advise me where the best to look for CW
 stations
 (and SSB I guess) this weekend might be? Thinking I
 should get my feet wet before the K3 arrives...
 
 Thanks,
 Julius
 n2wn
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Frequency probe

2007-06-26 Thread Curt Milton
Greg

FB on your improvision here.  

The reason for the capacitor is to provide a DC block,
so if there is DC on the circuit being measured, it
won't get into the counter.  

A counter probe is a bit more forgiving than trying to
measure a signal level - you merely need to get enough
RF energy to counter to measure, without loading the
circuit being measured.  

To see some probe designs, look in a ARRL handbook and
also visit the N5ESE website.  For your application,
nothing complicated is required - use your coax,
provide a short probe tip at the end, and a DC block
either as part of the counter or the probe. Do
consider the max power that your counters can handle,
and whether you need some form of limiting to protect
your counter.   

73, curt

--- Greg Derda [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I've searched and Googled all over for this, but can
 find nothing.  I 
 have both a benchtop frequency counter (from a
 Hamfest w/ no probe), 
 and the NorCal FCC-1, and I need a frequency probe
 for both of them.  I 
 have some RG-174 and BNC connectors.
 
 For the benchtop counter, I presume I connect the
 center conductor and 
 shield to the BNC connector in the usual way.
 
 For the FCC-1, there are two holes on the board for
 the conductor and 
 ground.
 
 Question is, what do I do on the other end?  Do I
 need a capacitor like 
 the K2's internal probe has?  Do I need to ground
 the shield to the 
 circuit under test (with a clip)?  Is there more
 than one kind of probe 
 depending on the type of measurement?
 
 One goal of mine is to use the FCC-1 with the AMQRP
 Tenna Dipper (which 
 has one hole for frequency measurement).  So, in
 addition to learning 
 how to build a generic probe, I am also hoping to
 learn enough (from 
 you all) to let me know whether I need to ground the
 shield to the 
 Tenna Dipper, in addition to connecting the center
 conductor to that 
 hole.
 
 Any and all comments will be greatly appreciated!
 
 Thank you  73,
 Greg
 ki4mmm
 k2 #6100
 
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Re: [Elecraft] My K2 is unbelievable!

2007-06-15 Thread Curt Milton
Gary

very FB.  sometimes the missing 10-13 dB (2-3 S-units)
is not so big a loss on a clear freq, on bands where
you can get above the QRN.  

when you have the itch for some SSB activity see who
is strong on 20m, and look for sporadic E on 10
meters.  

it is not so hard to wire this rig up for PSK31 - see
the app note on the elecraft site.  and its too good
of a CW rig not to use it on this mode.  

i may take my recently completed 100w addition to the
K2 for a spin this weekend in the WV contest.  i
enjoyed this rig for several years without the extra
8-10 dB, so do appreciate your rig as is.  

73, curt


--- Gary D Krause [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I had a blast on 20 meters last night.  The band was
 really bad and there were 
 very few weak signals.  I installed the SSB board a
 couple of nights ago and I 
 wanted to test it out on the air.  I called and
 called CQ most of the evening 
 but, no luck.  So, I went to the CW portion of the
 band and just happened to 
 hear Pedro in Mexico calling CQ.  We had a great
 chat and we were both running 
 5 watts QRP.  He is my first DX contact with the K2.
  I went back to SSB but, 
 there wasn't much to listen too.  I tried calling
 again.  At eight o'clock I 
 gave up.
 
 Thirty minutes later I tried again.  I called with
 no response.  Tuning 
 further up the band I came across Mike in
 Farmington, Maine booming in here 
 (Wyoming) with a 20 over nine signal.  I figured if
 anyone can hear me, he 
 could.  We had a great conversation.  He was running
 1000 watts and a 
 tribander.  I told him that I was running 10 watts
 with a quarter wave 
 vertical.  He couldn't believe it.  Anyway, he was
 my first contact with SSB 
 and I am pretty excited to know that it works great
 even in crummy conditions!
 
 I just had to tell someone.  This rig is fantastic!
 
 Thanks,
 Gary, N7HTS
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 and SSB

2007-06-12 Thread Curt Milton
Gary

the K2 works nifty on SSB, either as a 15 or 100 watt
radio.  even with only a vertical I would not hesitate
to call someone DX on 20m.  of course its easier when
sunspots are higher!  i have made many contest QSO's
running SSB QRP.  and this is a great rig for running
PSK31.  so if you have the board go ahead and install
it!  

count the dB's carefully and convert them to the
number of S-units.  i am not saying don't QRO, as when
i discovered working DX on 80m CW is interesting I
added 100w to my K2.  i won't debate the K2 vs. K3
trade!  converted to $ per dB of performance, i am not
sure where this will fall.  

73, curt

--- Gary D Krause [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I was just wondering how many here use SSB with
 their 15 watt K2?  Does it 
 meet your expectations?
 
 The reason I am asking is because, I have the SSB
 board ready to install.  I 
 have been using the basic K2 the last few days in CW
 mode and I really like it 
 since I work mostly CW.  I have a Kenwood TS-530SP
 that works great on SSB so, 
 I'm trying to decide if it's really worth installing
 the SSB option.  So, I'm 
 trying to gather as many opinions as possible so
 that I can sit and torture 
 myself further. :-)  I did own an Argonaut V for
 about eight months.  It would 
 put out about 20 watts which made SSB a bit more of
 a challenge.  Since I have 
 the Kenwood that will put out 170 watts, believe it
 or not, I'm thinking that 
 I would probably not use the SSB option unless it's
 for QRP SSB.
 
 Your opinions are welcome.  I should mention that
 I'm not planning to add the 
 100 watt amp to the K2.  If I'm going to do that,
 I'll just buy a K3!  I also 
 work a lot of QRP CW.
 
 Thanks,
 Gary, N7HTS
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 build question

2007-06-06 Thread Curt Milton
Gary

all is well.  the K2 menu has dot and bar modes, so
you can set it up for either.  it will take a while to
find what all these settings are used for.  

(push menu and look thru something that abbreviates
s-meter by scrolling with the main tuning knob, then
HOLD the menu button until it jumps to the right, then
scroll thru options, then HOLD the menu button to
accept your setting).  

enjoy the build and pace yourself!  the HF bands
should only get better so don't rush and end up with
rework and troubleshooting.  

73, curt



--- Gary D Krause [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I just completed the second alignment and test of
 the K2 and everything 
 checked out fine.  I noticed that only the leading
 bar is lit on the s-meter. 
  In other words, if the signal strength is S-9 only
 that bar is lit and all 
 the others to the left are not.  I suspect that
 isn't normal however, I kind 
 of like it that way.  Is that normal?
 
 Gary, N7HTS
 
 
 
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Re: Fwd: [Elecraft] KPA100 Failing to Produce High Power

2007-06-01 Thread Curt Milton
Don and others who responded - thanks!  

(1) its hard to fix what isn't broke
(2) i have been using this rig many years 
(3) somehow i falsely believed i could tweak the power
knob BEFORE hitting TUNE
(4) maybe i hard time believing i assembled this board
without any issues! 
(5) the two button routine to transmit full power is
actually nifty !  

my rig does produce 100 watts!  

i do notice the finals are too hot to touch when
transmitting, but they cool in a few seconds when
transmit ceases.  maybe this is normal (i have never
touched an operational 50 watt device before).  i
guess i need to find where the K2 will tell me its
temperature to see if all is well.

73, curt

--- Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Curt,
 
 How are you attempting to initiate transmit?  If you
 ae pressing TUNE, 
 then 20 watts is what should be produced - the
 KPA100 firmware limits 
 TUNE to 20 watts.  If you need to try at a higher
 power than that, you 
 must press TUNE and DISPLAY together.
 
 OTOH, if you are already doing TUNE/DISPLAY, then
 check the KPA100 LPF 
 toroids for the correct number of turns - count the
 nmber of times the 
 wire passes through the center of the core.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 Curt Milton wrote:
  I did some additional troubleshooting, but maybe
 there
  is nothing unusual in these bias measurements?
  
  Bias   RxTx
  D11   13.70.7
  D12   0.7129
  D13   13.7   0.2
  D14   0.7   129
  Q1/2 base  00.6 
  
  Still puzzled as why rig is limited to around 20w
  output.  Current draw is proportional to RF power
  output, as above 20w setting rig will neither draw
  additional current nor output additional power.  
  
  --- Curt Milton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
  Has anyone experienced this problem, or know if I
  should troubleshoot the bias, input, or output
  circuitry.  All is well with the low power bypass
  path, and rig seems to work up to around 25 watts
  output.  
  --- Curt Milton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Date: Sun, 27 May 2007 12:08:40 -0700 (PDT)
  From: Curt Milton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Subject: [Elecraft] KPA100 Failing to Produce
 High
  Power
 
  All has been well up until now, including
 setting
  the
  bias per instructions.  Without PA's my bias
  current
  was 330 mA, so I successfully set it for 730 mA
  with
  the PA's.  
 
  I had adjusted R26 for 5w and got the VSWR
 sensor
  zeroed.  During my high power test (into a
 matched
  antenna on a clear channel into a good antenna)
 my
  VSWR is reading 1.2 on the K2 and similar on my
  external meter.  When I transmit the PA devices
 do
  get
  very hot (too hot to touch after about 10
 seconds)
  but
  they quickly cool (maybe around 5 seconds or
 less)
  after transmit ceases.  
 
  Here is the behavior i am getting.  First column
  is
  K2
  power setting (on 20m), second is what the K2
  reads
  on
  transmit, and third is my meter.  My meter is
 not
  state of the art but it is reasonable with my
  other
  rig.  
 
  K2 SettingK2 Indicated   Meter
 
  1515 20
  2020 28
  2525 30
  3023 28
  3522 30
  4022 35
  5023 32
 
  Thinking that maybe R26 was way off, i set the
 K2
  for
  40 watts and tried to adjust R26 to read 40
 watts
  -
  no
  this got me no where.  
 
  I tried to operate on different bands with two
  different antennas.  Same impact on all bands,
  except
  it has even lower output on 10m.  
 
  Troubleshooting suggestions appreciated!  
 
  73, Curt
 
 
   
 
 


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Re: [Elecraft] dynamic range questions

2007-06-01 Thread Curt Milton
Mike

for two tone dynamic range testing, both signals are
located intentionally outside the detection passband
(narrowest filter) of the receiver, and the receiver
is tuned so that one of the third order intermods is
within the passband.  

you may find that this is a useful reference:

http://www.arrl.org/tis/info/pdf/109435.pdf

when the measurement is bounded by phase noise, it
means that instead of introducing a distortion product
or reducing the level of a weak signal, instead the
phase noise introduced by the receiver itself
(generally the local oscillators) has degraded
detection of the weak signal.  

otherwise, you seem to be on the right track with your
understanding.  

73, curt

--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I've got some questions for the receiver meisters.
 These are not K3
 questions but will affect my understanding of the K3
 specs when they
 appear.
 
 IMD for the K3 (Orion, FTxxx, etc) refers to
 spurious signals produced
 by operation of a stage (or stages) in the nonlinear
 portion of its
 transfer curve (or whatever it's called)?
 
 The measurement ground rules imply two signals:
 one at fc and the
 other at fc+x, where x is 20khz, 10khz, ... ?
 
 The parameter usually being determined is referred
 to as the two tone
 dynamic range and indicates the point at which third
 order signals
 resulting from 2fc-(fc+x) and 2(fc+x)-fc begin to
 appear in the signal
 path?
 
 fc and fc+x are chosen to put (at least one of) the
 third order
 signals in the IF passband?
 
 I assume that receiver circuit characteristics
 before the roofing
 filters (or IF bandpass filter) essentially
 determine the dynamic
 range. However, dynamic range figures always seem
 to degrade for
 small separations of fc and fc+x. Is this because fc
 and/or fc+x are
 falling within the IF passband and are producing
 spurious signals in
 the stages following the roofing filters?
 
 For the case of strong signals in the IF passband,
 are the dynamic
 range tests run with the AGC disabled? In actual
 operation, wouldn't
 the AGC reduce signal levels below the point where
 distortion products
 were being generated (in the stages following the
 roofing filters)?
 
 The two tone test is only a proxy for the real
 world. In actual
 operation, if any signal (or signals) in the RF
 passband or mixer
 passband exceeds the receiver dynamic range, will
 ALL of the signals
 in the passband begin contributing third order
 products?
 
 Is the magnitude of the third order distortion
 products a function of
 the degree of the nonlinearity? Can different
 receiver models with
 the same dynamic range numbers (operating under the
 same conditions)
 differ considerably in the signal strength of junk
 signals?
 
 When test results are phase noise limited, what is
 going on? Is the
 phase noise acting simply as RF noise that masks the
 spurious signals
 being observed? Or is it acting as a third signal
 that mixes with fc
 and fc+x and causes the production of third order
 products at a lower
 signal level than fc and fc+x would alone?
 
 
 Mike  W5FTD
 
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Re: Fwd: [Elecraft] KPA100 Failing to Produce High Power

2007-05-31 Thread Curt Milton
I did some additional troubleshooting, but maybe there
is nothing unusual in these bias measurements?

Bias   RxTx
D11   13.70.7
D12   0.7129
D13   13.7   0.2
D14   0.7   129
Q1/2 base  00.6 

Still puzzled as why rig is limited to around 20w
output.  Current draw is proportional to RF power
output, as above 20w setting rig will neither draw
additional current nor output additional power.  

--- Curt Milton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Has anyone experienced this problem, or know if I
 should troubleshoot the bias, input, or output
 circuitry.  All is well with the low power bypass
 path, and rig seems to work up to around 25 watts
 output.  
 --- Curt Milton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Date: Sun, 27 May 2007 12:08:40 -0700 (PDT)
  From: Curt Milton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Subject: [Elecraft] KPA100 Failing to Produce High
  Power
  
  All has been well up until now, including setting
  the
  bias per instructions.  Without PA's my bias
 current
  was 330 mA, so I successfully set it for 730 mA
 with
  the PA's.  
  
  I had adjusted R26 for 5w and got the VSWR sensor
  zeroed.  During my high power test (into a matched
  antenna on a clear channel into a good antenna) my
  VSWR is reading 1.2 on the K2 and similar on my
  external meter.  When I transmit the PA devices do
  get
  very hot (too hot to touch after about 10 seconds)
  but
  they quickly cool (maybe around 5 seconds or less)
  after transmit ceases.  
  
  Here is the behavior i am getting.  First column
 is
  K2
  power setting (on 20m), second is what the K2
 reads
  on
  transmit, and third is my meter.  My meter is not
  state of the art but it is reasonable with my
 other
  rig.  
  
  K2 SettingK2 Indicated   Meter
  
  1515 20
  2020 28
  2525 30
  3023 28
  3522 30
  4022 35
  5023 32
  
  Thinking that maybe R26 was way off, i set the K2
  for
  40 watts and tried to adjust R26 to read 40 watts
 -
  no
  this got me no where.  
  
  I tried to operate on different bands with two
  different antennas.  Same impact on all bands,
  except
  it has even lower output on 10m.  
  
  Troubleshooting suggestions appreciated!  
  
  73, Curt
 
 
 
  


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Fwd: [Elecraft] KPA100 Failing to Produce High Power

2007-05-29 Thread Curt Milton
Has anyone experienced this problem, or know if I
should troubleshoot the bias, input, or output
circuitry.  All is well with the low power bypass
path, and rig seems to work up to around 25 watts
output.  
--- Curt Milton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Date: Sun, 27 May 2007 12:08:40 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Curt Milton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] KPA100 Failing to Produce High
 Power
 
 All has been well up until now, including setting
 the
 bias per instructions.  Without PA's my bias current
 was 330 mA, so I successfully set it for 730 mA with
 the PA's.  
 
 I had adjusted R26 for 5w and got the VSWR sensor
 zeroed.  During my high power test (into a matched
 antenna on a clear channel into a good antenna) my
 VSWR is reading 1.2 on the K2 and similar on my
 external meter.  When I transmit the PA devices do
 get
 very hot (too hot to touch after about 10 seconds)
 but
 they quickly cool (maybe around 5 seconds or less)
 after transmit ceases.  
 
 Here is the behavior i am getting.  First column is
 K2
 power setting (on 20m), second is what the K2 reads
 on
 transmit, and third is my meter.  My meter is not
 state of the art but it is reasonable with my other
 rig.  
 
 K2 SettingK2 Indicated   Meter
 
 1515 20
 2020 28
 2525 30
 3023 28
 3522 30
 4022 35
 5023 32
 
 Thinking that maybe R26 was way off, i set the K2
 for
 40 watts and tried to adjust R26 to read 40 watts -
 no
 this got me no where.  
 
 I tried to operate on different bands with two
 different antennas.  Same impact on all bands,
 except
 it has even lower output on 10m.  
 
 Troubleshooting suggestions appreciated!  
 
 73, Curt



 

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Re: [Elecraft] Erratic behavior in a one year old K2

2007-05-28 Thread Curt Milton
John

before you go too far, strip your set-up down to bare
essentials for operating either CW or SSB.  first rule
out that RF feedback is not the cause, particularly if
you dont have much PSK31 experience with the complete
set-up.  

73, curt

--- John Wiener [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I was working PSK for about half an hour or less
 when some odd things  
 started happening.
 I couldn't turn off XMIT through Cocoamodem so I
 turned the K2 off  
 and back on.  Unplugged and replugged the ATU. 
 Turned the Signalink  
 off and on. (I am using iMac and Cocoamodem thru a
 Griffin connector  
 to Signalink.)
 
 Now no relay clicks on any band.  The ATU will not
 tune on 80M on  
 either the G5RV or folded dipole (it used to).   I
 got weird reverse  
 iambs (dah-dit) when keying dahs on the Elecraft
 keyer but only on  
 some bands.  later that went away.
 
 Still, the TUNE button no longer is momentary (stays
 on XMIT)
 
 Any ideas?
 
 Thanks in advance
 
 John
 AB8O
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[Elecraft] KPA100 Failing to Produce High Power

2007-05-27 Thread Curt Milton
All has been well up until now, including setting the
bias per instructions.  Without PA's my bias current
was 330 mA, so I successfully set it for 730 mA with
the PA's.  

I had adjusted R26 for 5w and got the VSWR sensor
zeroed.  During my high power test (into a matched
antenna on a clear channel into a good antenna) my
VSWR is reading 1.2 on the K2 and similar on my
external meter.  When I transmit the PA devices do get
very hot (too hot to touch after about 10 seconds) but
they quickly cool (maybe around 5 seconds or less)
after transmit ceases.  

Here is the behavior i am getting.  First column is K2
power setting (on 20m), second is what the K2 reads on
transmit, and third is my meter.  My meter is not
state of the art but it is reasonable with my other
rig.  

K2 SettingK2 Indicated   Meter

1515 20
2020 28
2525 30
3023 28
3522 30
4022 35
5023 32

Thinking that maybe R26 was way off, i set the K2 for
40 watts and tried to adjust R26 to read 40 watts - no
this got me no where.  

I tried to operate on different bands with two
different antennas.  Same impact on all bands, except
it has even lower output on 10m.  

Troubleshooting suggestions appreciated!  

73, Curt
   


   
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[Elecraft] No Sidetone with Firmware Upgrade - K2

2007-03-25 Thread Curt Milton
In process of upgrading K2 #2117.  

Installed BFO and PLL thermal upgrade kits.  All was
well.  Then I put in the new firmware.  It came up ok
with INFO 201 and then Elecraft.  Following
instructions I did the EDIT ST L.  As I don't have
anything but SSB and 160 currently installed, I
realize I need the U6-25 setting.  When I hit display
it shows one of these options, and when I hit display
it toggles to the other option.  But neither produces
a sidetone.  I tried exiting when U6-25 is displayed,
still no sidetone.  

I am not convinced I know how to properly set it for
U6-25?

It just calibrated the PLL OK as I was typing this,
but not fun to not have a sidetone.  

Firmware was 2.01F - now its 2.04P.  I also updated
the IOC firmware on the RF board to 1.09.  

Please and thanks for help.  

73, curt



 

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - How good on SSB?

2007-03-16 Thread Curt Milton
Very interesting question.  When sunspots were good, i never hesitated even on 
20m (unless there was a huge pile-up) to speak into the mic of my QRP K2.  It 
rewarded me with lots of QSOs (using a vertical antenna).

Recently I decided to check out its IF filtering across busy bands in the ARRL 
DX SSB contest.  The narrower settings on the main board filter did do a good 
job of reducing QRM, as it improved with each toggle from 2 to 1.8 to 1.6 
settings.  

Things I don't know are:

(1) How well the K2 shape factors of the main board filter compare to typical 
1.8 kHz accessory filters in higher end rigs.  Note these typically have a wide 
~ 2.4 kHz or wider stock filter and a single selectable narrow filter.  

(2) How well the K2 speech processor works in comparison to other rigs.  

I have no reason to discern any limitations for these - i just don't have any 
information other than casual use.  

At one time I thought that not having passband tuning (IF shift) was a 'big 
limitation.'  But now I realize its only a big factor on SSB when your filters 
is wider than needed (as is on many lower end HF rigs).  Some folk have set 
their SSB filter up to be a quasi-IF shift by having one oriented down and one 
oriented up on say a 1.8 kHz BW -- but I can't say this is the best use of the 
4 available settings.  

(Gee - I know the enterprise would appreciate you buying a second K2, but you 
can only do one mode at once.  No reason why your existing K2 can't be a CW QRP 
machine, a SSB machine, and by flipping the lid also a 100w multimode rig. ) 

73, curt


- Original Message 
From: Fred (FL) [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 11:35:05 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 - How good on SSB?


Thinking about building my 2nd K2.  First # 54xx,
was a very sucessful build.

Does anyone have thoughts on how well the K2,
operates, by itself, as a SSB HF rig?  It would
seem 15W is kind of pushing it for a suitable
signal - but just wondered if any successful
K2 SSB ops are around.

And I've always had this belief that 15W is not
enough to drive many or any amps?

Thanks,
Fred, N3CSY




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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Filter settings

2007-03-16 Thread Curt Milton
Nick

you did not say if you are receiving CW or SSB (i presume likely SSB since it 
is more BW dependant in fidelity).  

if you dont have the SSB adaptor installed, all the filters may be a little bit 
narrower than many HF rigs.  when/if you add this board you will have an even 
higher fidelity SSB receive signal.  

if you get some decrease in intelligiability with narrower BW, no reason for 
alarm yet.  I suggest also listening to both USB and LSB to see if you hear a 
difference.  

do download spectrogram and the application note at the Elecraft site (and/or 
use instructions at other's websites).  it takes just an audio cable from your 
K2 audion output into your PC soundcard.  software settings may take some 
patience to get them set up, but you will be rewarded by 'seeing' your filters. 
 and for fun you will likely check out your other rigs!  

enjoy your K2 build!  73, curt


- Original Message 
From: Nick Henwood [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 6:20:04 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Filter settings


Thrilled to get my K2 working on 7 MHz receive but I seem to have a problem 
with filter settings.
Everything has checked out according to the book - no problems at all (even my 
home-wound coils seem to work!!)
I have set up the filters exactly according to pages 88 and 89. On Filter 1 the 
rx sounds great - plenty of gain, clean signals. On the other 3 filters it 
sounds like I am listening through a dense fog - I can tell the bandwidth is 
far narrower than F1 but signals are weak and it sounds as if the filters are 
overlapping each other (if you know what I mean). I have checked settings again 
and all look OK. Does anyone recognise this problem please? I am reluctant to 
proceed until I have sorted it out.
73 Nick G3RWF
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Re: [Elecraft] Vetical Antennas

2007-03-02 Thread Curt Milton
Mike

you already have received some excellent advice from others, so i will keep 
this brief.

(1) understand that mounting a vertical above the ground works best with 
resonant (quarter wave length radials) while on the ground it does not require 
resonant radials, but is more challenging as it wants as much metal as possible 
over the ground.  

(2) mounting something that tall (around 26 feet) onto a house is no small 
undertaking!  remember your house is more vital than your ham radio experience 
(and more costly to repair than the antenna).  some people have adequately 
installed such an antenna onto a house, but its a big effort to do it 
sufficiently well (understatement).  

(3) the TVI cure you allude to is to reduce feed line radiation.  if the 
feedline is closer to the TV's than your antenna, this is a greater help.  its 
certainly good practice to work to minimize feed-line radiation, but it is not 
a fix-all.  

antenna installations have lots of challenges, so don't push the envelope 
beyond your capabilities.  and don't rule our wire antennas, as this might get 
you in business quicker while working the vertical more.  

73, curt


- Original Message 
From: Mike Walkington [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft-Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, March 2, 2007 5:55:54 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Vetical Antennas


Hi All,

I've moved to a new house and I'm trying to get a Hustler 5BTV working
really well with my K2 in my new location. I plan to install the antenna in
a ground plane configuration on a 2 storey home and feed it with coax. I was
planning to use a few quarter wave radial for each of the bands of interest.

I've had problems with TVI using this antenna before, so this time I will
use some sort of a choke to block currents on the outer surface of the coax
braid. Any suggestions on what I should use?

How should I protect myself from lightning? I initially thought about
running a lead from the base of the antenna to ground, but the length of
this would probably turn the antenna into a vertical dipole.

I was reading some doco for this antenna and read the following: Never use
an antenna tuner to tune the antenna.Use of a tuner only fools the
transmitter and does not correct a problem at the antenna.
This doesn't seem right can I use my K2's tuners?

Finally, I've been reading Moxon's HF Antennas for All Locations, and he
doesn't seem to recommend quarter wave radials for ground planes. I'm not
sure I comprehend why. Is anyone familiar with his concerns?


Mike
VK1KCK, K2 #2599

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Re: [Elecraft] re: vertical antenna - dirty secrets article

2007-03-02 Thread Curt Milton
I am familiar with the article, but be careful with its conclusions.  It is a 
bit biased in its perspective.  

Verticals can work when they are center fed, or end fed appropriately.  

Many antennas are a great compromise over the ideal.  Few of us can afford the 
ideal!  

I now have both a half-wave style vertical (R5) and a ground mounted (AP8) 
vertical.  The latter has a modest field of radials (around 30 of varying 
lengths all  3/16 wavelength).  My findings on bands they have in common - the 
antennas perform similarly (generally less than an S-unit in variation).  

With only a modest ground radial field, I would not assume a vertical not 
requiring radials is bad in comparison.  Its a matter of degree.  If someone 
cannot get the attributes sought from a horizontal wire antenna, and if one 
cannot install a large radial field - I would not so quickly rule out a 
half-wave style vertical.  I recognize there are better designs than the R5, 
but I have found it to be effective in comparison to its physical size.  

Sure I would rather have a full sized, ground-mounted set of quarter wave 
verticals (or elevated ones) with near-ideal radials  but other solutions 
may be more realistic.  

73, curt


- Original Message 
From: RC kc5wa [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, March 2, 2007 12:07:58 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] re: vertical antenna


on the http://www.bencher.com web site is a very good 
article called Dirty little Secrets about antennas. 
It should be required reading if your considering a 
vertical antenna. I've used both the hustler 5btv and 
the Butternut 10-80m vertical with excellent results.

RC http://www.kc5wa.us
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[Elecraft] Upgrading K2 #2117 to 100w

2007-02-22 Thread Curt Milton
I confess I have not been inside my K2 since I installed the SSB board, not too 
long after I built it.  I still need to perform the mod on the static-ky audio 
(mine isnt that bad but I think its time).  

Now I am contemplating upgrading to 100 watts, once I figure out how many 
upgrades I need to make.  I downloaded the Upgrading to Rev B instructions, and 
the KPA100 instructions.  And I am trying to digest all this!  

My current firmware is 2.01F.  

Now what purchases must I make (in addition to KPA100) to enjoy this rig at 
100w?  

I am sensing with the additional thermal load that perhaps the PLL and BFO 
upgrades are prudent.  OK another $29 here does not sound too scary.  My QRP K2 
has nice frequency accuracy thru 20m, but on 10 and 15m i have noticed a small 
error which puzzled me until I read about the PLL upgrade.  

I am not contemplating adding DSP or an autotuner - so is my firmware good 
enough ?  

Is there anything else that I must upgrade to enjoy this rig at 100 w ?  

I understand it is prudent to evaluate all the aspects in the revision B 
instructions while the rig is receiving other mods, but I havent noticed any of 
these issues yet.  

Looking for enlightenment on how to upgrade this middle-aged K2.  

73, curt


 

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