RE: [Elecraft] Toroids frequency range and baluns
Jim, Why are choke baluns wound as a coil vastly superior to choke baluns made with a sting of ferrite beads? With the coil type, you're adding additional coax loss... What am I missing here? 73, Bob W1SRB -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Brown Sent: Saturday, September 20, 2008 4:17 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Toroids frequency range and baluns On Fri, 19 Sep 2008 20:45:57 -0700, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: Balun is an unfortunate, all-inclusive and misleading term. One so-called balun may be as different from another balun in its requirements and application as a motorcycle is different from railroad locomotive. Yes, it really is. I stand by my statement when talking about a choke balun consisting of a string of ferrite beads on some coax or a coaxial line on a coil form such as I described. The only losses caused by such a balun will be those of the transmission line itself, which cannot be ignored if the SWR is high. Yes on all counts. BUT -- the chokes wound as a coil are vastly superior. So-called baluns that transform impedances are, typically, transformers -- often transmission-line transformers. They're a whole different animal and can be very unpredictable, especially when they use ferrite or powdered iron cores and are exposed to a wide range of impedances. Yes. Again, poor use of words by the industry. 73, Jim K9YC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Toroids frequency range and baluns
Hello All, There have been several e-mail threads recently about ferrite cores and about baluns and transmission line loss with high SWR. Related to this is a question that I haven't seen addressed anywhere - toroids all have a specified frequency range but what happens when they're used outside of that range? To be more specific, I have a multiband fan dipole fed with ladder line into a 4:1 current balun that then connects to my rig through about 5 feet of RG-8. I made the balun using a pair of T200-2 powder iron cores, which have a specified frequency range of 0.25 to 10 MHz. Since I'm using this single antenna from 160m to 10m, I'm way beyond the specified frequency range of the cores - is the balun likely to be very inefficient above it 10MHz? The antenna seems to work very well on 40m and 20m and OK on 15m. Since the band conditions haven't been particularly good in the last few years that I've been using this antenna, I can't tell whether my lack of many QSOs on 15m and above is due to inefficiencies in the balun or to band conditions? What do you think? Bob W1SRB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] LINIX PCs and ham SW?
Hello All, Thanks to all who responded to my request for info on ham SW on a Linux PC. From the responses that I've received, I've concluded that a Linux PC would serve my needs for logging and for control of my K2, but not for SDR/panadapter purposes. (My other uses, e.g., EZNEC, etc., aren't as critical as I can run those applications on the family PC when my wife isn't using it). So, it appears that my other option is a Vista PC - and I have the same questions - what ham SW runs or doesn't run under Vista: logging programs, K2 rig control programs, SDR programs, EZNEC, transmission line programs, etc.? Thanks. Bob W1SRB -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Solosko, Robert B (Bob) Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2008 11:05 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] LINIX PCs and ham SW? Hi Folks, I'm considering buying an inexpensive LINIX PC (i.e., ASUS eee) to be dedicated to my station - my primary uses would be logging, rig control and as a panadapter. Other uses would be running design programs, e.g. EZNEC, TL-details, and general word processing, spreadsheet, e-mail and web browsing. What is the availability of ham SW for these applications that will run under LINIX? Will any of the SRD programs that can be used for panadapter purposes run under LINIX? What about sound card capability and audio input and output? Will EZNEC, etc. ruin under LINIX? Thanks. Bob W1SRB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] LINIX PCs and ham SW?
Hi Folks, I'm considering buying an inexpensive LINIX PC (i.e., ASUS eee) to be dedicated to my station - my primary uses would be logging, rig control and as a panadapter. Other uses would be running design programs, e.g. EZNEC, TL-details, and general word processing, spreadsheet, e-mail and web browsing. What is the availability of ham SW for these applications that will run under LINIX? Will any of the SRD programs that can be used for panadapter purposes run under LINIX? What about sound card capability and audio input and output? Will EZNEC, etc. ruin under LINIX? Thanks. Bob W1SRB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Very Dissatisfied With Elecraft Support
Jon, I can understand your frustration, but there may be a simplier solution. The K2 comes with the parts to make a simple RF probe: 1N34A diode, .01 uf cap, 47 M ohm resistor and a length of RG-174 coax. You should be able to order all of the parts from Elecraft, including the small PC board that is used - part number E100079 (it's also used as a spacing tool for mounting the front panel switches). The instructions are on page 9 of Appendix E in the K2 manual that can be downloaded from the Elecraft web site. 73, Bob W1SRB -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jon Perelstein Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 9:23 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Very Dissatisfied With Elecraft Support I ordered a K1 based that They all ... have built-in test equipment to simplify alignment and testing (from the Elecraft web site). Now -- according to Elecraft support -- I have to source obsolete parts from China, buy drill equipment and copper bathroom pipe, and rip apart my television (or my computer) to cannibalize printed circuit boards. Either that or buy an oscilloscope that would cost me more than the K1. I'm building a 2 band K1 -- 40 meters (band 1) and 20 meters (band 2). During receiver alignment, Band 1 (40 meters) seems to be working fine. Band 2 (20 meters) however, does nothing. The support guys are telling me that I have to build an RF probe for further testing, and they've pointed me to a schematic in the K1 user manual and told me to go build the probe from scratch. That's about as useful to me as pointing me to the schematic of the K1 and telling me to go build the K1 from scratch. I'm a new ham (March, 2008). I'm not a home electronic hobbyist. I don't have test equipment. I have no experience at homebrew, nor do I have the knowledge to do so. I bought the K1 as a starter to get my feet wet in working electronics. After a number of emails with support about how to build an RF probe (a question that was repeatedly ignored), I was finally referred to a couple of different web sites: - The first site starts out with ... using an old piece of double-sided printed circuit board that you have in your junk bin Where exactly do I have double-sided printed circuit board sitting around? Do I hacksaw off a hunk from my television or from my computer? Radio Shack doesn't sell it, nor does Mouser. - The next site also wants me to use double-sided printed circuit board, plus they want me to insert it into a copper pipe and drill holes through the pipe. Rght ... so in other words I have to go out and buy a drill that's capable of drilling through copper. And I have to buy the copper pipe and end caps. Will I have to get the pipe threaded in order to mount the end caps? - Then there's the site that built the RF probe inside a ball-point pen. The author of that site admitted that it took him a number of tries before he was able to build it without breaking the diode, and that this is a project for the more advanced hobbyist. It also turns out that nobody carries the diode specified by the schematic (1N34A). According to Mouser, it's obsolete and out of stock, but if I want to pay a couple of hundred bucks, they'll gladly source it from China. Mouser will sell me something that they claim is a replacement for the 1N34A, but all of the web sites I've been referred to tell me not to use that specific replacement. I bought a kit because it comes with all the parts, has a pre-built chassis, has pre-drilled holes, and includes complete and well-thought out instructions on how to mount everything -- as well as a commitment to provide support during the construction process. Maybe in two or three years I'll have the experience to build my own RF probe, but in the meantime I'm stuck with a K1 that I can't finish without an RF probe, and there's no way that I can build an RF probe without a trip to China. Anybody want a mostly complete K1? Make me an offer -- I'll even throw in shipping. Jon KB1QBZ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] simple iambic paddle
Lloyd, I also made one very simply and cheaply from double sided copper clad board based on a QST article that was published several years ago (which I have in my files at home and can send you a copy). Mine has a small horizontal board with a vertical board soldered o it. The vertical board is about 2 long and 1 high and has the contacts for the paddle arms. The paddle arms are a little narrower and about an inch longer than the vertical board. The attached to each side of the vertical board at the back with several layers of double sided foam tape, giving a spacing between the paddle arms and the center vertical board of about 1/8 and between each other of about 3/8. The spacing can be changed by using more or fewer layers of foam tape. The foam tape acts as the spring, as well as an insulator between the center vertical board and the paddle arms. The whole thing is attached to an Altoids box that's filled with pennies to give it a heavy base. I used this for many QSOs as I was getting my code speed up. 73, Bob W1SRB -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ian Stirling Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 1:49 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] simple iambic paddle On Thursday 24 April 2008 12:39:01 pm Brian Lloyd wrote: Does anyone have a design for a very simple iambic key that can be made with simple materials and hand tools? I made one when I built The Ultimate Keyer Mk2 by G3RVM in the February 1980 issue of Radio Communication. I used two thin strips of copper clad board. Mine was double sided but singe sided is all that's needed. I sawed a small diecast box to get two nice right angle brackets and screwed them on the base of the main diecast box where I had the electronics. The PCB strips came out the front of the box separated about half an inch. I used stick-on rubber feet as the thumb abd finger contacts. For the switch contacts, I drilled quarter inch staggered holes in the PCBs and using the other two corners of the cut box, mounted them outside the PCBs with a long screw going through each PCB hole. So the mounts for the screws are both outside the strips. The PCB strips were nicely springy and I adjusted the screws to a very fine touch. I bought a Bencher paddle soon afterwards. I have no idea why I dismantled my own paddles; I remember their being just as good as the Bencher. Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 #4962 -- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] grounding K2
That's true, but all you need to do is get a matching 6-32 screw to fit the K2's threaded hole for the ground post. 73 Bob W1SRB -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ken Wagner K3IU Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2008 3:01 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] grounding K2 Except that the grounding post is part of the KAT2 ATU which may not be installed. 73, Ken K3IU ~~ Roger Stein wrote: Yes, good RF/safety practice, to the ground post on the back of the K2 provided for that purpose. Roger WA7BOC k2 755 k3 75 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Scott McDowell Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2008 11:19 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] grounding K2 Hello Has anyone ever felt the need to ground their K2, and if so, where did you connect the ground wire to the K2? Thanks Scott N5SM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net Announcement - how did the K3s do?
Hello All, How did the K3s perform under last night's conditions? At just about 9PM EST, I heard the word Elecraft on 7188, and after that I could hear that there were transmissions on that frequency, but given the static crashes and high QRN level, nothing more was understandable (it just goes to show the Elecraft stands out). At about 9:15, I clearly heard K4PV in N.W. Florida and he was able to copy me, then he talked to another station who I could hear but not understand. At about 9:30, everything disappeared (except the static and QRN). My K2 does a wonderful job on CW under such high QRN conditions since I can use my very narrow IF and DSP filters to essentially eliminate the QRN, but it doesn't do well at all on SSB - when the signal is barely understandable, using narrower SSB filters doesn't significantly reduce the QRN and makes the signal even more difficult to understand (the SSB filters work better under heavy QRM conditions). And the noise blanker in my K2 of course has no effect on the static and QRN conditions we had last night. So, how did the K3s do under last night's conditions? 73, Bob W1SRB Reading, Ma (just north of Boston) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry Putman Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 9:18 AM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net Announcement Hi, Actually I did find the group on 188! despite very heavy static crashes on my end I could copy several stations out west! I was very impressed with the great audio! Really punched right through!! I was using a TT RX340 receiver and a Wellbrook Loop Larry Putman WB3ANQ Pasadena, Maryland K3 waiting Larry Putman WB3ANQ Pasadena, Maryland - Original Message From: Mark Saunders, KJ7BS [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Larry Putman [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, March 6, 2008 10:13:03 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net Announcement Larry, Roger checked 7.188 and found a QSO in progress so he slid down to 7.185. In actuality the QSO he heard on 188 was two guys waiting for the ESN to start. We had the net on 7.185 this evening. That is why Roger said 7.188+-. Wish you could have found us. It was fun. Mark, KJ7BS Glendale, AZ Editor, The SKCC Centurion Elecraft K2 S/N 0539 Fists # 2972 CC 1806 SKCC # 2240 C56 T20 MQFD # 128 QRP-ARCI # 12647 AZ ScQRPions COGRC Emergency Communications - Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] OT: Relays for antenna switching
Thank you to everyone who replied - I received much very good advice about how to determine the relay characteristics that I need, how to mount the relays and specific relay recommendations. Thanks again and 73, Bob W1SRB -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Solosko, Robert B (Bob) Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2008 1:00 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Relays for antenna switching Hello All, I planning to put up a 20m switchable vertical yagi made up of 4 vertical elements, with a relay control box to switch the elements to be either the driven element or the reflector elements. Preferable the relays should be DPDT, although I can use SPDT relays if they're cheap enough. - What relays should I use (any specific recommendations?) , or what characteristics should I look for in relays. The relay control box will be mounted on the antenna, so it has to operate over a very wide range of temperatures (below 0 to over 100 degrees), and be controlled via 12VDC. - What should the relay contact rating be to use with my K2 at 100 watts? - Will there be a significant amount of loss if I use power relays for RF applications (which seem to be the only ones in the catalogs that probably have a sufficient contact rating)? - Are the relays used in the KAT100 appropriate for external use (they would be in mounted a sealed box)... and does anyone know what the KAT100 relays are? (I expect the Elecraft would prefer that I order them from some othe rsource so that they're not a parts supplier for non-Elecraft projects). Thanks. Bob W1SRB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Re: Best way to secure RF ground from 2nd floor- a related question
Hi All, I have a related question: how do I tune the counterpoises? My shack is also on the 2nd floor and I had major problems with RF in the shack on 15m, 17m and 20m. My antenna is a 100' dipole connected with ladder line to a 4:1 current balun that's just outside the window where my shack is. Then I have 5' of RG-8 running through the window to my KAT100 inside. I also have the braid from some old RG-8 as a ground wire running from the KAT100 through the window to an 8' ground rod. I had RF in the shack problems with this arrangement that was mostly resolved by connecting 3 counterpoises to the ground side of the balun, one for each band. It's not perfect, but it's a major improvement. The counterpoises were cut approximately for each band - so the question is how do you tune the counterpoises, since the effects of RF in the shack at this point are somewhat subtle. I just purchased an MFJ 259B antenna analyzer (mine actually seems to work out of the box!), but I don't see any obvious way to use it to tune the counterpoises, since the counterpoises are just heavy insulated wire, and not coax. Can the antenna analyzer be used to tune the counterpoises? If not is there some other way to do so without needing other specialized equipment? Thanks. Bob W1SRB -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 2:24 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Re: Best way to secure RF ground from 2nd floor -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Larry Dodson Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 10:26 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Re: Best way to secure RF ground from 2nd floor I recently tried this on my multi band offest center dipole. 300 ohn twin feed to near ground; box there contailing 4:1 balum which connects via RG8 to rig in second floor room. In the box ( one foot above ground) I connected outer sheild of coxial to horizontal copper earth pipes below ground. Result is that I get good SWR across 80M band and no RF in shack. I am getting good signal reports, but have not had the opportunity to check ___ That's a setup that often works well. The balun decouples the twin lead from the coax, so there's little RF current flowing on the outside of the shield (lots of RF INSIDE, but the RF doesn't penetrate the shield). The coax is far enough from the antenna itself that it's not picking up too much RF on the outside by induction. So, even if a high impedance voltage loop happens to appear at the rig end, the high RF voltages are safely shielded inside the coaxial line. The dangers of such an arrangement, as your comment suggests you're aware, are: 1) The behavior of the balun can be quite unpredictable with potentially high losses when the SWR on the line is high, as it probably is on most bands. 2) The coaxial line will have relatively high losses, also due to a high SWR. Your 300 ohm ribbon will also show losses but they are much lower because of its higher impedance. For example, if you terminate the 300 ohm line in a 2000 ohm load it will see an SWR of about 7:1. Terminate the 50 ohm coax in the same 2000 ohm load, and it will see an SWR of 40:1! The ideal solution is a remote antenna tuner, in your case where the balun is located. Then the 50 ohm coax would always have a very low SWR. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT: Relays for antenna switching
Hello All, I planning to put up a 20m switchable vertical yagi made up of 4 vertical elements, with a relay control box to switch the elements to be either the driven element or the reflector elements. Preferable the relays should be DPDT, although I can use SPDT relays if they're cheap enough. - What relays should I use (any specific recommendations?) , or what characteristics should I look for in relays. The relay control box will be mounted on the antenna, so it has to operate over a very wide range of temperatures (below 0 to over 100 degrees), and be controlled via 12VDC. - What should the relay contact rating be to use with my K2 at 100 watts? - Will there be a significant amount of loss if I use power relays for RF applications (which seem to be the only ones in the catalogs that probably have a sufficient contact rating)? - Are the relays used in the KAT100 appropriate for external use (they would be in mounted a sealed box)... and does anyone know what the KAT100 relays are? (I expect the Elecraft would prefer that I order them from some othe rsource so that they're not a parts supplier for non-Elecraft projects). Thanks. Bob W1SRB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] UNPCBs
Hello DW, There are a few people who are making things for the K2 that are not provided by Elecraft that provide additional capabilities and convenience - these are individuals, like Gary Hvizdak, Don Wilhelm, Mike Phipps and Jack Smith, who don't sell a lot of their products and don't make any significant profit from them either. You'll see them post information about their products to the reflector, and occasionally, as in Gary's case, send e-mail directly to someone who has just ordered a K2 and not burden the entire list. My K2 was built with Gary's UNPCBs, and now includes Don's fixed audio output board (which he no longer as available but may be picked up by Tom Hammond, N0SS), and which, among other things, I use to drive Jack Smith's Z100 tuning indicator. There are obviously differing opinions about the usefulness of the UNPCBs. Don Wilhelm, who is a very experienced builder (and an invaluable resource to all of us - he's helped me solve a number of problems with my K2), has no problems removing and replacing components - but some of us do. Even if you've ordered all of the K2 options you're ever likely to install, you still need to build the basic K2 first and calibrate and test it before adding the options. That means removing and replacing components. I built by K2 with the UNPCBs several years ago and then added options one at a time over the last few years. For me, adding options were then really just plug-and-play, and I avoided the dreaded unsoldering and replacing components. The UNPCBs had another advantage when my K2 developed a problem that required the removal of several of the options to trace down - all I had to do was plug the UNPCBs back in, in place of the removed options. Without them, I would have had to again unsolder, remove and replace some components. Don does raise a good point with the UNPCBs in that installing the K60XV UNPCB may cause calibration problems (if I did, I wasn't aware of it and my K2 seemed to work fine). But there appear to be no issues with the remaining UNPCBs. Bob W1SRB -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of DW Holtman Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 9:51 AM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] UNPCBs Hello, Are these really necessary? Didn't Elecraft make the K2 to where additional parts are really not necessary? I have ordered every option that I will ever want along with a Elecraft Mic, why would I want to pay for UNPCBS? Should companies be able to mine information such as who ordered what from this forum and send E-Mails for selling their goods? I understand that this is parts for K2. Maybe this is alright and I'm all wet. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Best, DW Holtman WB7SSSN ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] OT - 10 meter contest
For the few hours that I was on throughout the weekend, I managed 10 CW
and 2 SSB QSOs (and Scott was one of my CW QSOs) in MA, NH and RI, all
within about 50 miles of my QTH . But in the 2 years that I've had my
K2/100, these are my first QSOs on 10m, so I'm quite satisfied.
Bob W1SRB
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of B. Scott Andersen
Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2007 8:44 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT - 10 meter contest
I've been playing in the contest on-and-off.
QRP is always tough but it looks like this is going to be a worked all
MA effort. {grin} So, I'm not sure you're having worse luck than the
rest of us.
The good news is that I had done a little work on my K2 (QRP version--no
100w option) and wanted to know if it was behaving well. My friend in NH
just over the border) worked me and said the radio sounded like music.
I know that's music to my ears!
Conditions aren't the greatest. I've put about 20 in the log with MA,
NH, and ME as mults.
I've got just a dipole hidden in some adjacent woods. Perhaps those with
aluminum farms are having better luck?
I must say, as I sit here I'm thinking of building another K2. This
really is a sweet little radio!
-- Scott (NE1RD)
Craig D. Smith wrote:
Anybody else having a go at the 10 meter contest? Conditions pretty
bleak here in Colorado - much worse than last year.
So far I have 21 Texas QSOs, 21 local Colorado, 16 other assorted
stateside and only one DX (Jamaica). Only 11 multipliers.
Anyone having better luck? Or a similar tale of woe?
73
... Craig AC0DS
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RE: [Elecraft] RE: not about technical issues (was Shipping StatusPage)
Julian, It's just as much of an insult to call the Elecraft crew liars and accuse them of broken promises. Anyone who's ever been involved in product development and ramping up production, especially complex products where you're dependent on suppliers to meet their schedules, know that schedules more often than not slip because of unforeseen circumstances, and even the most pessimistic schedules may in hindsight seem to have been overly optimistic. Please give the Elecraft crew the respect they deserve for designing and getting into production a unique and outstanding product - and please stop insulting them by calling them liars. Bob W1SRB -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Julian G4ILO Sent: Friday, December 07, 2007 11:20 AM To: elecraft Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RE: not about technical issues (was Shipping StatusPage) Arrogant? Whining? Twits? I don't see any arguments there for why it is not legitimate to voice one's frustration over optimistic delivery estimates and broken promises. But thanks to your reasoned reply I have now decided to consider cancelling my order. I don't *need* a K3. I have a perfectly good K2. And at this point I wonder why I need a hobby pursued by people who can think of nothing better than hurl insults at others who express opinions they just don't agree with. I'm out of here, too. -- Julian, G4ILO K2 s/n: 392 K3 s/n: ??? G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com Zerobeat Ham Forums: www.zerobeat.net/smf On 07/12/2007, Greg Derda [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'll finally chime in as well, and AGREE with Jason! We have to get used to it? I've never seen so many arrogant, whining twits in my entire life!! Get a hobby! I'm outta here as well. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Re: KAT100 with Ladder Line
Peter, I agree- my 100' fan dipole is fed with about 70' of ladder line into a current balun, which is then connected to my KAT100 through about 5' of RG-8. The balun is attached to the side of my house just outside the window and the coax brings it into the house. Since at 100w, a significant mismatch could cause the balun to heat, I made my own current balun using a pair of FT43-240 cores which has a much higher capacity than the small core used in the BL2. I followed the basic BL2 circuit diagram, replacing the switch with an external jumper so I could try it at both 1:1 and 4:1. For my antenna, the 4:1 ratio worked better - the KAT100 will get the SWR down to 1:1 on the transmitter side on all bands from 10m to 80m, and on the lower 2/3rds of 160m. I seem to have no problems getting out, having worked most of Europe (which is the direction favored by my dipole), much of South America, and most of the US Canada on SSB. Whatever losses there are in the balun seem to be small, and more than compensated for by the use of the very low loss ladder line. Bob W1SRB -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Joe-aa4nn Sent: Friday, November 16, 2007 10:04 AM To: Peter Wollan; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re: KAT100 with Ladder Line Hi Peter, Try not to worry too much about feeding balanced lines. Get the Elecraft BL2 and hook it to the balanced line. Connect a 2 or3 foot piece of coax from the BL2 to your rig. Tune up and away you go. If the balun tends to get a little warm, just cut off 5 or 6 feet of the balanced feedline and give it another go. You don't want to connect balanced line directly to KAT2. 73 gl, de Joe, aa4nn - Original Message - From: Peter Wollan [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, November 16, 2007 9:50 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Re: KAT100 with Ladder Line Please, I'd like some more discussion of this question. I've seen before that baluns on ladder line can be lossy, but I'm not about to get a balanced tuner, so it doesn't really help. What happens if you connect the balanced line directly to the KAT100? Or, in my case, to the KAT2? I haven't had any problems so far -- maybe low power makes a big difference, or maybe I've just had antennas which were reasonable in some way. I gather it's possible to get unpleasant currents on the case, mic, or paddle. Is that exactly the condition in which the balun will be lossy? Does connecting the ground screw on the KAT2 (or the one on the balun?) alleviate the common mode current problems? Peter N8MHD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2/100 or K3/10?
Just to throw a little theory in here, the ability to extract information from a signal in a noisy environment is a function of both the signal level and the information rate of the signal. CW has a much lower information rate than does SSB (as does PSK, for example), and thus an SSB signal has to have a much higher signal level relative to the noise than does a CW signal to be understood. The 10dB difference in power that 100 watts provides over 10 watts doesn't quite make up the difference in information rate between a CW signal and an SSB signal, but it goes a long way to equalize the difference. Scaling this up, a 100 watt CW signal should be more or less as good a KW SSB signal in terms of understandability in a noisy environment. Bob W1SRB -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 4:13 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2/100 or K3/10? Another way to look at it is that 10 watts is 10 dB (about 1.5 S-units) below 100 watts. That's enough to make a difference, but not a huge difference in who you can work and when, especially on CW. SSB is perhaps a little more of a challenge, but that might be because I'm a CW op too and only get on SSB on rare occasions. Were I faced with that choice, I'd go for the 10 watt rig with more potential for expansion and performance than the 100 watt rig. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- So, assuming it is one or the other, which do you think would be a better choice for a CW operator who is mostly an east-coast rag chewer with occasional DX chasing and light duty contesting? I'm leaning toward the K3/10 since it can eventually be upgraded to 100 watts, but I wonder if 10 watts (3 dB more than QRP) is enough to keep me happy for a year or so. - Keith N1AS - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2
John, There's lots of good advice here - I used a small pocket magnifier to read the markings on some of the components. At some point I bought a magnifying lamp from the local office supply store - it worked fine for reading component values and for lighting the work, but the range of the magnifier was much to close to actually build the K2 under it. These lamps are intended for reading, so they focus quite close to the page. If you need a magnifying lamp for building, I understand that you can order lamps with a longer range magnifier that focus further away from the circuit board. Check the archives as this subject has been discussed in the past. My approach to managing components is to stick all components of the same type and value on a strip on masking tape wrapped over the end of the leads, and then write the value on the tape. As I need a component, I just pull it out of the tape. Good luck. Bob W1SRB -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Robie Elms Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 12:45 AM To: John Huggins; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [SPAM?] Re: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2 John, I suggest that you obtain a good lamp with a magnifying glass attached. Mine has a round florescent lamp that fits around the lens. This provides plenty of light and the magnification really improves you productivity. I am not saying that the K2 is too small - just that time has taken a toll on my eyes!! Another item that may help is a vice to hold the circuit boards while you are installing components and soldering. I do not consider this as important as the magnifying lamp. Robie - AJ4F K2 s/n 6165 - Original Message - From: John Huggins [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 11:08 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2 OK so I have decided to buy the base K2 kit and build it along with my son; He needs to see a process like this unfold. I have read the various FAQs, tips, etc. I am not new to kit building. We have a good soldering station. If the K2 works out well we will use it on CW for a while and then add enhancements: SSB first then others (perhaps DSP, 160M, 60M-Xvrter, 100Watts).. Are there tools or tips I am missing before I drop the coin? John ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2/100, KAT100 strange tuning problem
Hello All, I hope that someone can suggest where to start tracing down a rather strange tuning problem that cropped up in the middle of working the IARU on Saturday. The short description is that the K2/100-KAT100 stopped tuning in AUTO mode when in high power mode on 40 meters. Here's some of the details: 1 - Tuning with the K2/100 and KAT100 on 40 meters has worked fine since I completed the KPA100 (rev. D) 6 months ago. 2 - I had no problems tuning for about the first 10 QSOs on 40m, and then the rig suddenly wouldn't tune at all when in high power mode (there were no lightening strikes during that time) - then tuning became erratic. 3 - Tuning worked fine when the power was reduced to low power mode: all I had to do was reduce the power just to the point where the power LEDs on the KAT100 switched from high power to low power and everything worked fine - then increasing the power just to the point where the power LEDs on the KAT1200 switched from low power to high power and the KAT100 wouldn't tune at all. 4 - If I tuned in low power mode, then cranked up the power to 100w, the rig transmitted just fine (and I made a bunch more 40m QSOs working like that) 5 - The rig tuned just fine in high power mode on all other bands. 6 - The problem doesn't seem to an antenna problem as the same thing happens when the antenna is replaced with a dummy load. The KAT100 manual has an obscure comment under troubleshooting that says: Erratic tuning in AUTO mode: This is much more likely to occur at high power, and could be due to high RF voltages on the K2 chassis, mic, key, power supply leads, or KAT100 control cable. First, try reducing power to 10 watts or less. This will force auto-tune to be done at 2 watts. If this cures the problem, you may need to add RF bypassing to your power supply, key, or mic; improve your ground system; move the antenna farther away; or use a choke balun between the ATU and the transceiver. -- That actually doesn't tell me much about where to start looking, since the everything has been working for 6 months (OK, I did get the new MH2 mic, but that was several weeks ago and it's been working fine), and everything worked for at least the first 1/2 hour on 40m in the IARU, so nothing's that I changed that could account for the sudden lack in ability to tune in high power mode on 40m. Help! Where do I start looking for the cause? Thanks in advance. Bob W1SRB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2/100, KAT100 strange tuning problem
Thanks Don... My KPA100 was ordered in December and is Rev D, so it's the version with the 40m parasitic problem fixed (it doesn't have RFC 10 on the antenna connector that the earlier versions did)- I wonder if the change to Rev D didn't quite fix the problem. Rev. E came out shortly after I built my KPA100, but I don't know what changed from D to E. Are there other things that I should check? Thanks. Bob W1SRB -Original Message- From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 11:17 AM To: Solosko, Robert B (Bob) Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2/100, KAT100 strange tuning problem Bob, There is nothing unique to 40 meters in the KAT100, *but*. Behavior like that *could* be related to a parasitic oscillation in the KPA100. The parasitic usually revealed itself during a TUNE operation with the KAT100 also installed. The KPA100 T/R switch was re-designed to address that very problem. If your KPA100 was ordered before last December, it has the old T/R switch in it, and can have the parasitic problem on 40. I suggest you promptly obtain the KPA100UPKT and install it in your KPA100. 73, Don W3FPR Solosko, Robert B (Bob) wrote: Hello All, I hope that someone can suggest where to start tracing down a rather strange tuning problem that cropped up in the middle of working the IARU on Saturday. The short description is that the K2/100-KAT100 stopped tuning in AUTO mode when in high power mode on 40 meters. Here's some of the details: 1 - Tuning with the K2/100 and KAT100 on 40 meters has worked fine since I completed the KPA100 (rev. D) 6 months ago. 2 - I had no problems tuning for about the first 10 QSOs on 40m, and then the rig suddenly wouldn't tune at all when in high power mode (there were no lightening strikes during that time) - then tuning became erratic. 3 - Tuning worked fine when the power was reduced to low power mode: all I had to do was reduce the power just to the point where the power LEDs on the KAT100 switched from high power to low power and everything worked fine - then increasing the power just to the point where the power LEDs on the KAT1200 switched from low power to high power and the KAT100 wouldn't tune at all. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2/100, KAT100 strange tuning problem
Thanks Don, That could be the problem - my Rev D manual says it .033uf. I'll check it out and see it that cures the problem. Thanks again. Bob -Original Message- From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 12:32 PM To: Solosko, Robert B (Bob) Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2/100, KAT100 strange tuning problem Bob, Since you do have early updated version of the KPA100 - there is one thing yet to check, and that is the value of C31. If it is not a .22 uf capacitor, it should be changed to the new value. Elecraft will supply one if you ask - the part number is E530295. The capacitor situation was not discovered until after the updated KPA100s began shipping. Under certain conditions the updated KPA100 will oscillate near 600 kHz with the lower value capacitor at C31. I know this is confusing - the older KPA100s had a 40 meter parasitic, likely caused by RFC10 while the newer version has this other oscillation problem if the bypass capacitor is not large enough. Similar outward behavior, but entirely different causes. BTW - the changes from 'D to E' were only to clean up the manual. There is only a loose link between the manual level and the hardware revision level. 73, Don W3FPR Solosko, Robert B (Bob) wrote: Thanks Don... My KPA100 was ordered in December and is Rev D, so it's the version with the 40m parasitic problem fixed (it doesn't have RFC 10 on the antenna connector that the earlier versions did)- I wonder if the change to Rev D didn't quite fix the problem. Rev. E came out shortly after I built my KPA100, but I don't know what changed from D to E. Are there other things that I should check? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] The Elecraft MH2 Hand Mic is Back!
Hi All, My MH2 arrived on Friday and its first use was for field day - My very first FD contact returned the unsolicited remark that I had a very nice sounding signal (which never happened with my homebrew mic using a Radio Shack replacement element). Bob W1SRB -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of wayne burdick Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 4:22 PM To: Elecraft Reflector Subject: [Elecraft] The Elecraft MH2 Hand Mic is Back! Our redesigned MH2 hand mic is now shipping. It has the same high-quality electret element, same sound, and same dimensions as the original, but with more rugged internal construction. The MH2 is the perfect match for both the K3 and K2 transceivers. You can see it at: http://www.elecraft.com/elecraft_mics.htm 73, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Switching Power Supply Recommendations Wanted
Hi Elecrafters, I just sold my big, heavy linear power supply to replace it with a small, light weight switching supply that I can pack into a suitcase with my K2/100. Looking at the eham.net reviews, comments on all of the switching supplies seem to range from great, absolutely no switching noise to noise everywhere, and everything in between. Given the sensitivity of the K2's receiver, is power supply switching noise likely to be more of a problem with the K2 than with some other rigs? Are there any switching power supplies that you'd recommend that work well with the K2 (and have little or no switching noise that the K2 would pick up) and are there any that I should definitely avoid? Thanks. Bob W1SRB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FS: ARRL Extra Class Q A
For Sale: ARRL Extra Class Q A book. Questions from the pool that is valid through 6/30/2008. Costs $17.95 directly from the ARRL plus postage and handling (they charge $7.00 from CT to MA, for a total of $24.95) - selling for $15.00 including postage within the continental US. Contact me off list and [EMAIL PROTECTED] and [EMAIL PROTECTED] (please send to both e-mail addresses). The book is very clean - not a mark in it. I passed the Extra class on Saturday so I don't need this any more. Bob W1SRB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: FS: ARRL Extra Class Q A - OOPS, wrong e-mail address
Hello again, Sorry, I had the wrong e-mail address - the company merged a few months ago and I still have the old-e-mail address in my brain. The two e-mail addresses to use are [EMAIL PROTECTED] and [EMAIL PROTECTED] Bob W1SRB _ From: Solosko, Robert B (Bob) Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 3:46 PM To: 'elecraft@mailman.qth.net' Cc: Bob Solosko Subject: FS: ARRL Extra Class Q A For Sale: ARRL Extra Class Q A book. Questions from the pool that is valid through 6/30/2008. Costs $17.95 directly from the ARRL plus postage and handling (they charge $7.00 from CT to MA, for a total of $24.95) - selling for $15.00 including postage within the continental US. Contact me off list and [EMAIL PROTECTED] and [EMAIL PROTECTED] (please send to both e-mail addresses). The book is very clean - not a mark in it. I passed the Extra class on Saturday so I don't need this any more. Bob W1SRB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FS: Astron RS-35A power supply
For Sale: Astron RS-35A power supply - 35 Amp linear supply, about 1 1/2 years old, excellent condition. Cost $150, will sell for $110, not including shipping. I'd prefer to sell it to someone in the Boston, southern N.H or western Massachusetts areas since at 27 lbs. the cost of shipping may be prohibitive. This is a great power supply that just loafs along powering my K2/100 - but it's much more power than I need, and it's not quite practical to pack in a suit case along with my K2 - I need to replace it with a smaller, and much lighter, switching supply that's easy to take with me. Contact me off list at [EMAIL PROTECTED] or [EMAIL PROTECTED] Bob W1SRB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Rf in the shack distorting audio - the results
Lowell, Don is giving some good advice here, as usual. The circuit of balun that I built is essentially identical to the BL2. I made mine using two FT-240-43 toroid cores - I needed a balun in a watertight box since it located outside in the rain and snow. I also wanted a balun that can handle more power than the BL2, since I aspire to higher power when I grow up. The one I made uses 12 bifilar turns of #12 wire, and should easily handle a kW. A diagram of this two core balun is found on page 26-24 of the ARRL antenna book (the same diagram is also in the transmission line section of my 1999 edition of the ARRL handbook). I mounted the two toroids in a plastic box from Radio Shack, with a coax connector on one side and screw terminals for the ladder line on the another side, plus a screw terminal for the ground connection for the counterpoises. If you look at the schematic on the BL2, several of the toroid leads go the switch. In place of the switch, I brought those leads out to screw terminals and use one external jumper between screw terminal for the 4:1 configuration, and two external jumpers between from the other screw terminals for the 1:1 configuration. With wing nuts on these jumper screw terminals, I can quickly switch between the 1:1 and 4:1 configurations (for my home setup, I just keep the balun in the 4:1 configuration - the quick change ability I use when I take the K2 on the road with antennas that the characteristics will change depending on the trees they're attached to) - of course, you can put the BL2 in a watertight box, but then you don't have easy access to the 1:1/4:1 switch, which in a fix setup you probable don't need to change often anyway. 73 Bob W1SRB -Original Message- From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 12:44 PM To: Lowell; Solosko, Robert B (Bob); elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Rf in the shack distorting audio - the results Lowell, Look at the Elecraft BL2 for a switchable 1:1/4:1 balun, it will handle up to 250 watts. If you do not need the switchable arrangement, the BL1 can be constructed for either a 1:1 or a 4:1 configuration and its power rating is 150 watts. A convenient ground lug is located on the balun output side. Look on the Elecraft website - click Our Products, and from there click on Mini-module kits. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I found your solutions to curing RF in the shack very interesting. I have a similiar problem to yours and would appreciate info on the 4:1/1:1 Current balun. Thanks Lowell, W5FH -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.3/697 - Release Date: 2/22/2007 11:55 AM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Rf in the shack distorting audio - the results
Hello All, Several weeks ago, I posted the attached e-mail describing my problems with RF in the shack distorting the audio when transmitting. I received many responses with good suggestions about how the cure the problem -- thank you to all of you who responded, and especially thank you to Don, the Friendly, Patient Radioman, with whom I subsequently had an e-mail dialog about the design of by balun and the materials used. The results: problem cured! The first thing I did was move the counterpoises from the ground on the KAT100 to the ground side of the coax where it connects to the balun. That had the most effect, significantly reducing the level of RF in the shack, as measured by my field strength meter, and mostly eliminated the RF getting into the computer speakers. The next thing was to use the 4:1 taps on my voltage balun instead of the 9:1 taps - that reduced the RF level a little more, at the expense of the KAT100 not being able to get down to a 1:1 SWR on 15m; the lowest SWR achieved was about 2:1 (I was using the 9:1 taps because the KAT100 could get down to essentially 1:1 on all bands). Next, AA1SB gave me a few toroid cores of unknown type that were just large enough to fit over a PN-259 connector- I slipped them over the coax where it connects to the balun. That made a slight difference in the RF level on 10m, but had no other affect on any other bands. The final step was to replace my 9:1/4:1 voltage balun, made using a T300A-1 core, with a 4:1/1:1 current balun made using a pair of FT-240-43 baluns. Don, W3FPR, had suggested that the FT material in a current balun would be much more effective at eliminating the RF problem. I finally got this current balun made and installed this weekend, and just as Don predicted, the RF in the shack is essentially completely eliminated. Also, the KAT100 now can achieve a 1:1 SWR on 15m. However, you don't get something for nothing - with this balun, I lost the upper 40 kHz of 160m... The KAT100 doesn't get the SWR down below 9:1 and just gives up. But, below that, there is about a 10kHz range over which the minimum SWR that the KAT100 can achieve goes from 1:1 to 9:1. This is not quite surprising since my antenna is a 100' shortened multi-band dipole which by design has a very narrow bandwidth on 160M. Furthermore, the inductance of the 4:1 current balun made with the FT material is about 50 times greater than the 9:1 voltage balun I made. On 160m the balun impedance was likely less that the impedance at the balun end or the ladder line (the rule of thumb is that the balun impedance should be at least 4 times the impedance at the balun input)... So, it's likely that the KAT100 was really tuning to the balun impedance and not the antenna impedance. However, with the new 4:1 current balun, the balun impedance shouldn't be much of a factor and the KAT100 is probably seeing more of the actual characteristics of the antenna... And, now that I think of it, all of the few QSOs that I've had on 160m have been below the upper 50kHz or so. So, thank you all again - I'm very satisfied with the results. Bob W1SRB -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Solosko, Robert B (Bob) Sent: Monday, January 22, 2007 12:57 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Rf in the shack distorting audio Hello All, Several month ago, after I finished my KPA100, I found that when transmitting SSB on the higher bands (20, 17 15), the computer speakers across the room, when turned on, would screech - adjusting the speaker volume had no effect (but turning off the speakers quieted them). During a QSO a few weeks ago, it was commented that it sounded like I was getting RF into my audio. To make a short story long, I don't have a very good ground system, so there's a high level of RF in the shack - the shack is on the 2nd floor, about 18 ft above the ground rod. My primary antenna is a 100 ft multiband horizontal dipole feed with ladder line into a 9:1 balun, which is connected to my KAT100 via 6' of RG8. While the antenna works great on all bands (the KAT100 has no trouble tuning it), there's a fairly high SWR on the feedline on the higher bands. I have two different length wires connected the ground rod to the KAT100, and adding counterpoises for 20, 17 15 meters hasn't change the high level of RF in the shack on these bands. A week or two ago, I put up a second antenna, a vertical parallel dipole for 20, 17 15 meters, fed with RG8 - this antenna has very low SWR on these bands. When using this antenna, I have no problems with the computer speakers screeching, so there's apparently not much RF in the shack. This weekend, during the NA QSO party, when using the ladder line fed dipole on the higher bands, several times, I was told that my audio was distorted, and switching to the vertical coax fed dipole immediately cured the problem
[Elecraft] Rf in the shack distorting audio
Hello All, Several month ago, after I finished my KPA100, I found that when transmitting SSB on the higher bands (20, 17 15), the computer speakers across the room, when turned on, would screech - adjusting the speaker volume had no effect (but turning off the speakers quieted them). During a QSO a few weeks ago, it was commented that it sounded like I was getting RF into my audio. To make a short story long, I don't have a very good ground system, so there's a high level of RF in the shack - the shack is on the 2nd floor, about 18 ft above the ground rod. My primary antenna is a 100 ft multiband horizontal dipole feed with ladder line into a 9:1 balun, which is connected to my KAT100 via 6' of RG8. While the antenna works great on all bands (the KAT100 has no trouble tuning it), there's a fairly high SWR on the feedline on the higher bands. I have two different length wires connected the ground rod to the KAT100, and adding counterpoises for 20, 17 15 meters hasn't change the high level of RF in the shack on these bands. A week or two ago, I put up a second antenna, a vertical parallel dipole for 20, 17 15 meters, fed with RG8 - this antenna has very low SWR on these bands. When using this antenna, I have no problems with the computer speakers screeching, so there's apparently not much RF in the shack. This weekend, during the NA QSO party, when using the ladder line fed dipole on the higher bands, several times, I was told that my audio was distorted, and switching to the vertical coax fed dipole immediately cured the problem. So, the question is, what can be done to fix the distorted audio when there a high level of RF in the shack (besides getting a better ground system - I plan to put in one or two more ground rods, but I won't be able to do that until after the ground defrosts in the spring). The mic I'm using is a RadioShack Electret replacement element in an old mobile mic case - the case is plastic and not shielded, but the cable is shielded, and I have grounded the mike jack in my K2. All suggestions about how I can eliminate the distortion will be greatly welcomed, as well as suggestions about how I can reduce the high level of RF in the shack besides adding more ground rods. Thanks Bob W1SRB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Heil Handi Mic
Hello All, There seems to be differing opinions about whether the Heil HM-4 and HM-5 provide enough output to properly drive the K2. Looking through the HRO catalog, I found that Heil now has several electret mikes (HM-iC, iCM, etc.) which they say gives higher output, but they also say these work only for ICOM radios... Does anyone have experience with these mikes? Do they solve the low drive problem for the K2?... And why are they only for ICOM radios? And one final question: are they likely to work better than the mike that I'm using that I put together using a $3 Radio Shack electret replacement element (plenty of drive, but mediocre audio reports)? Thanks. Bob W1SRB -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 6:54 PM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Heil Handi Mic Mike AI4NS wrote: I am using the Heil HM-5, and the audio is just fine according to reports. I didn't have to do anything special. I set SSb A menu to 2, and SSbB menu to 3-1, And it works well for my voice. Just another option. - Excellent point Mike! The SSb A menu will switch in about 10 dB of attenuation if it's set to 1! That's useful when an external mic preamp to over-driving the K2 but will keep many mics from properly driving the rig when connected without a preamp. Even so, I've noticed that several mics won't drive the K2 properly on 10 meters (where the TX gain is lowest) especially if I use any compression. That seems to be the experience of a great many operators. I use an electret element that has an output of about -64 dB. It works FB once I changed R14 to 5.6K. I considered an external preamp, but it seemed to me more efficient to reduce the unnecessary loss at the mic input rather than add external active components to make up for it. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Help - XFIL doesn't work -problem solved
Don, Your experience, expertise and advice does it again. Since my K2 has worked fine since I built it a year ago, I didn't think that this would be a solder problem, especially since the problem surfaced when installing the KPA100. Tom, N0SS, suggested that I re-do the BFO calibration, as you did. Re-doing the BFO range check the other day showed that the lower end of the range was above the limit by several kHz and re-setting the filters with Spectrogram didn't improve things. Then last night I resoldered all of the components used in the BFO and IF filter. Doing the BFO range check again, it was now right where it should be. Running CAL PLL and resetting the filters with Spectrogram brought my K2 back to it normal operation. So, apparently there was a marginal solder joint that was loosened by all of the moving and shaking associated with installing the KPA100. Thank you so much, and to Tom also, for your help and advise. Bob W1SRB PS - the Rework Eliminators again showed their value. I had to remove the DSP board to get to one of the test points, and I removed the SSB and noise blanker boards to re-solder the BFO and filter components. It took all of about 15 seconds to put the unheaders back in place of these boards so I could test the BFO and filters, both before and after the re-soldering effort. -Original Message- From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 8:32 PM To: Solosko, Robert B (Bob); elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Help - XFIL doesn't work Robert, Did the base K2 receive OK before you added the KPA100? - note that the KPA100 has nothing to do with the base K2 receive, but I would like to know if it worked fine at one time in the past. The most likely thing that would cause the filter settings to fail is a failure of the BFO or a failure in the IF filter itself. My vote is on the BFO - go back to page 62 of your manual and re-do the BFO range test. If that is OK, then try to re-do the filter alignment using Spectrogram. Should you notice strange results with the filter alignment, then check all the components in the lower center portion of the schematic sheet 2 of 4 for proper soldering and proper component placement. The most probable cause of failure is a bad solder connection. First thing is to check the soldering, then re-check the soldering. When you have completed that, check the soldering! Often another pair of eyes will see something that you have overlooked numerous times - if you can find someone else to review your work, that may prove revealing. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Then, on CW I tuned in a strong signal, and because there was lots of QRM, hit the XFIL to a narrower filter, and the signal al shifted up a lot in frequency and almost disappeared. It did completely disappear with a still narrower filter. Going to SSB, there were lots of signals, but none of them were intelligible. Checking the XFIL menu setting, they were all still as I had set them, so this isn't a menu problem. I then removed the KPA100 and the XFIL problem was still there. The next step was to see just what the filters were doing using Spectrogram. The broadest CW filter, which I had set to 1.6kHz, was more like 2.6 kHz (which explains the QRM). The other filters, which I had set to 1.0, 0.6 and 0.3 kHz were also about 30% broader and were all centered around 1.4kHz. For these filters, changing the BFO down to a setting of 0 moved them down only to about 750Hz and there was no way to get them down to 600Hz. The LSB filters were similarly messed up, with really messed up filter shapes. I adjusted them as I could. Plugging in my antenna, CW signals were a little more readable, but not much, and SSB was still unintelligible. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Help - XFIL doesn't work
Hello All, After building almost every option that will fit into the K2 and having everything working great the first time, I finished the KPA100 over the weekend (after getting beyond the in-line fuse problem), and in the process, broke something in the K2. The KPA100 checked out fine but when I installed it in the K2, nothing happened - the K2 wouldn't even turn on. Measuring my power supply voltage, it was about 1 volt when plugged into the K2, but the normal 13.6 volts when not plugged in. Opening up the K2, it was evident right away that the problem was that the internal 12V wire between the K2 and the KPA100 was pinched between the KPA100 shield and the side of the K2 and apparently shorting out somewhat (but none of the fuses were blown). Taping the wires where the shield cut through the insulation and moving the wires so the wouldn't be pinched fixed that problem and now everything seemed to be working fine (or so I thought). Then, on CW I tuned in a strong signal, and because there was lots of QRM, hit the XFIL to a narrower filter, and the signal al shifted up a lot in frequency and almost disappeared. It did completely disappear with a still narrower filter. Going to SSB, there were lots of signals, but none of them were intelligible. Checking the XFIL menu setting, they were all still as I had set them, so this isn't a menu problem. I then removed the KPA100 and the XFIL problem was still there. The next step was to see just what the filters were doing using Spectrogram. The broadest CW filter, which I had set to 1.6kHz, was more like 2.6 kHz (which explains the QRM). The other filters, which I had set to 1.0, 0.6 and 0.3 kHz were also about 30% broader and were all centered around 1.4kHz. For these filters, changing the BFO down to a setting of 0 moved them down only to about 750Hz and there was no way to get them down to 600Hz. The LSB filters were similarly messed up, with really messed up filter shapes. I adjusted them as I could. Plugging in my antenna, CW signals were a little more readable, but not much, and SSB was still unintelligible. So, it appears that something broke, possible as a result of the pinched 12 wire (but maybe not). Everything else besides the XFIL filters seems to work. What controls the shape and center frequency of the XTAL filters and where do I start looking for what's broken? Thank you for any help and suggestions that you can offer. Bob W1SRB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Help - XFIL doesn't work
Keith, I did add the Rework Eliminators when I built the K2, and it made adding all of the internal options a breeze (KDSP2, KNB2, K160RX, KSB2 and now the KPA100) - I highly recommend them when building a K2. The problem I encountered with the KPA100 was my own inattentiveness when installing the KPA100 into the K2 and not watching where the 12V power wire from the KPA100 was (it just plugs into the K2 - nothing related to the REs). Bob -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Darwin, Keith Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 2:33 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Help - XFIL doesn't work I wonder, once this gets figured out, if we'll find that having the Rework Eliminators (so as to avoid pulling the K2 board out once it is done) would have avoided the problem ... Just thinking. Enjoy it as I'm not always known to do it :-) - Keith N1AS - -Original Message- From: Solosko, Robert B (Bob) Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 10:43 AM ... I finished the KPA100 over the weekend ... and in the process, broke something in the K2. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
FW: [Elecraft] OT: Looking for some foam.
Scott, Here's yet another idea... One of my other hobbies is making custom cases for stringed musical instruments. For the bottom and sides of the cases, I use closed-cell noodles used by kids (and adults) in swimming pools, etc. They're available in almost store that sells toys or swimming stuff for a few dollars for a 4 or 5 foot long one. I cut them to length and slice them with a box cutter (very easily), then use double sided tape to fasten them to a piece of file folder cut to the shape of the case bottom or side. I then cover the foam and board with a piece of cloth, also attached with double sided tape, and then glue the whole thing into the case. This is very cheap for a lot of foam and provides just the right density to protect the instrument. For the top of the case, I use a piece of soft foam I get from a fabric store to keep everything from moving. One of the projects on my list is to make a custom case for my K2, KAT100, key, mic, cables, etc., and I'll be using the noodle foam to keep eve! rything padded and in place. Bob -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Scott Spencer Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2006 1:26 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Looking for some foam. This is a bit off of the normal topics but since there are a lot of portable operators on this list, I figure somebody may be able to help me out. I have a good transport case for my KX-1 and accessories but I'm having a hard time finding some good foam to line the case with. I'd really like to find some of the pre-scored foam to make it easier to shape for the contents. I've tried the local hobby shops but all they seem to carry is the low density foam. Not suitable for my needs. Any input would be greatly appreciated. NN4W Scott ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] newbie question
The only really necessary option is the finger dimple (plus a source of power)! Bob W1SRB -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of KU4YP Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2006 9:51 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] newbie question Hello, I would like to ask a question. If you were buying a k2, what would be the basic options you could not do without when buying the kit? Like everyone, I am on a set budget but have enough for the rig plus a little more. Wanted to get the most bang for the buck and also get the options that are really needed right out of the gate. I am looking forward to your replies. Tnx and 73 mike ku4yp ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: K2 Front Panel Extension
Hello All, Thanks everyone, there have been a lot of good suggestions. Some of them seem to move beyond a simple front panel extension into the realm of a remote front panel, which also has been explicitly mentioned. Perhaps there could be two different products here, a simple front panel extension and a separate remote front panel. Mike, WA1SEO, pointed to his web page where he has a photo of his version of a front panel extension. Mike, I'd be interested in hearing how well this works from a performance perspective, since that was a concern that was raised, e.g., slow K2 response to commands over the KIO2. It appears that Mike used rotary switches in his box. My preference is for push buttons with associated LEDs, but more important when designing something for manufacturing is to use the same parts that are already used in other products and minimize the number of new parts introduced (as a System Engineer in Product Development, manufacturing and resource utilization issues are always part of the new product thought process). Also, I didn't include any knobs/pots functions in my original list as I know how much more complex (i.e., expensive) that would make the front panel extension, and I didn't see any existing knob/pot functions that are not already easily accessible on the K2 front panel - that changes, of course, when we get away from a simple front panel extension into the realm of a remote front panel. 73 Bob W1SRB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 Front Panel Extension
Hi Don and everyone else, The ability of software such as HRD to control a K2 is what gave me the idea for a hardware front panel extension that would interface through a KIO2. While a hardware front panel extension wouldn't have all of the capabilities and flexibility of HRD, the goal would be to have better and easier control over the K2 in a very small box that would take up much less space on my small operating desk and be much smaller and lighter to pack than a laptop when I travel with my K2... and I wouldn't have to negotiate with my wife over who gets to use the computer and when. A hardware front panel extension could be very simple - say a 4X4 array of pushbuttons and associated LEDs - that could be done in a space just slightly wider that the dimensions of the push buttons on the right side of the K2 front panel. With 16 push buttons, 8 of them could be used for the xtal and AF/DSP filters, one for power on/off, 3 for tuning rate, one for clock, one for ANT tune and one for some other function. With a 4X5 array of buttons, there are even more possibilities, all within dimensions that are probably less than half of the K2 front panel width and probably about 1 deep. It could probably be designed to run off of an internal battery (for use when the K2 is running on it's internal battery) or from an external power source. Question for everyone: If there would be a small hardware front panel extension with say 16 or 20 pushbuttons and LEDs (either associated with the buttons or for independent functions), what functions would you most want? 73 Bob W1SRB -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Don Wilhelm Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 7:14 PM To: Lemkes; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 Front Panel Extension I already have a K2 Front Panel extension quite similar to what you are discussing (Control through the KIO2). It is called Ham Radio Deluxe! And it is as big as my computer screen or whatever I size it to. About the only thing it can't do is adjust the AF Gain and the RF Gain. Besides that, it is customizable so I can put the buttons in most any pattern that suits me. And best of all it is free, a lobor of love by a very generous and talented ham. It can also make many other brand transceivers have the same controls as the K2. Thanks Simon. but most of the time, I end up using the original panel and find it sufficient. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I really like the idea of a Front Panel Extension for the K2 and have seriously thought about building one myself. I like lots of knobs, switches and buttons. I dislike having to do repeated long presses of a button to cycle through the DSP filter bandwidths, for example. I'd much rather have a button for each bandwidth for both the DSP and crystal filters. And, as another example, I long press for tune several times a day, but never use short press Ant 1/2 except inadvertently when I'm trying to tune in a hurry! So, my K2 front panel extension, some day, will have single function buttons with indicators, and be run by a dedicated computer mother board that talks to the front panel and the K2. 73, Dick, AD7AF ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] wherefore art thou, K3?
It seems to me that the K2 does everything I want it to do from a feature and performance point of view - where it's lacking, as may people have said, is in user ergonomics. There are just too many functions that are squeezed into the limited front panel to make it very easy to use. While I haven't yet hooked my K2 to a computer, it looks like a number of the programs that work with the K2 effectively expand the front panel with more push buttons and controls. But since I don't want to have to haul a laptop with me when I travel with my K2, what I would like is not another bigger (and more expensive) K2+ or K3 but a simple, and small front panel extension box... perhaps something about the size of a KX-1. This box would have separate push buttons for each XTAL and DSP filter and for each of the tuning rates - that way I can just press a button and not have to cycle around all of the different choices to get to the one that I want. And, each button would have a built in L! ED that would light to indicate which button I pushed so that the choice is immediately obvious. This front panel extension box could also have a number of buttons for other functions that now require several menu steps, such as turning the DSP noise filter on and off, displaying the clock, etc. It can also have separate LED indicators to indicate when the RIT is on, when the XIT is on, etc. The box wouldn't duplicate any of the functions that are now directly available on the K2 front panel but would make it much easier to get to the frequently used functions that require multiple pushes of a button or multiple menus. The nice thing about such a front panel extension, besides making the K2 much more user friendly, and being small and light enough to take along, is that it could be easily implemented with a small processor that interfaces to the K2 via the remote K2 commands through the KIO2. So, would you buy such a front panel extension? How much would this go toward satisfying your desire for a K2+ or a K3, and how much would you be willing to pay for it? Bob W1SRB P.S. I sent this idea to Wayne and Eric several months ago. . -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Fred (FL) Sent: Monday, August 28, 2006 3:13 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] wherefore art thou, K3? I feel, all Elecraft needs to consider - is creating a 2007 version of the K2, updated with 2006 technology, 2006 microelectronics, better display, and a few bells and whistles to play with. What the HOO bigger knobs, larger front panel to boot. Call it the K2+ or K2MKII or K207 IMHO many new and previous K2 owners would buy it. Consider how many auto owners upgrade to buy the latest VERSION of their favorite auto. Happens every day. Unfortunately, in the U.S. auto industry - NEW MODELS may contain less features, and less quality. Ala no chrome, no metal bumpers, no HP, no 8 cylinders, no oil pressure If Elecraft told me I could buy the K2+ or K207 - why wouldn't I want one? And this would give the Elecraft principals - more memory to play around in, and more technology to beef up the performance even more. Its a win, win. Thanks, Fred N3CSY __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 Noise Blanker Slot as Additional IF Amplifier S tage
Dick, If your filters are adjusted correctly (best done using Spectrogram, as others have mentioned), it may be that you're not tuning the CW signal to the center of the filter's band pass (usually set to 600Hz). I recently added a CW tuning indicator to my K2, and now, once the indicator shows that the CW signal is centered at 600HZ, I can switch to any of the much narrower XTAL or DSP filters and the signal is always right there. To avoid the slight reduction in signal level with the narrowest XTAL filters, I have my narrowest XTAL filter set to 300Hz and when needed, then use my narrowest DSP filter, which is set to 100Hz. 73, Bob W1SRB -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Lemkes Sent: Friday, August 11, 2006 10:58 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Noise Blanker Slot as Additional IF Amplifier Stage Has anyone thought of, or tried modifying the K2 Noise Blanker to be an additional K2 IF amplifier stage? My problem is that when I really, really need the crystal filter, I am trying to copy a very weak (but readable) CW signal with adjacent S-9 QRM. When I switch in tighter than about 1200 Hz of crystal filtering, I tend to lose the target signal due to filter loss. ( Losing the target signal is not because the BFOs are not properly calibrated). When I use just the DSP filter to block the adjacent S-9 QRM, then I still lose the target DX due to AGC pumping (without the IF roofing filter). I'd really like some additional IF gain to compensate for the crystal filter loss. I would try using the Noise Blanker's U1, MC1350, as the added IF stage, and use U3, the Controller's decoded program lines to adjust U1's AGC input for front panel gain control. I could use P1's pin 8, 8R, as power for the MC1350 so that it's only active on receive. Any feedback would be appreciated. 73, Dick, AD7AF Dick and Marty Lemke PO Box 1038 Ocean Park, WA 98640 Tel. 360-665-2438 www.lemkestudios.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KIO2 is it to expensive ? / Was KIO2 For S/N 0539
Martin, I agree that the KIO2 is a very expensive option if you want to use a KAT100 but don't need the serial computer interface (or if you plan to add a KPA100, as I will eventually do). However, for about $5 in parts, I put together a KIO2 alternative to control my KAT100 - it has the KAT100 control signals but not the RS-232 interface. All of the information needed to do this can be extracted from the KIO2 schematic. Bob W1SRB -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Martin DD4UKP Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2006 4:40 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: Elecraft Reflector Subject: [Elecraft] KIO2 is it to expensive ? / Was KIO2 For S/N 0539 Hello Mark, Yes you are right the KIO2 is another Elecraft quality kit ! Please don't get me wrong for what I'm gonna write : I love my K2 ! BUT I have the feeling it is also the most overpriced extension that you can purchase for your K2. I have a full loaded K2 (KDSP2, KAT2, KNB2, KSB2, K160M) and KPA100+KAT100 in a EC2 enclosure. At $89 I really have the feeling that it is twice to expensive considering what you get. Also you MUST have it four a couple of option like the KAT100 or the transverter. As it is the only proper way to get Auxbus signals out of the K2 I really think it should have been included into the basic K2. I'm not aware of what the RD cost for this option where but I feel that the price should be around $35 to $45 ... Maybe we will have the luck to get it on the K3 :) Martin DD4UKP / F4UKP Fellow Elecrafters, I just completed building and installing the KIO2 in K2 S/N 0539. WOW! Nice accessory kit. It would have been a single evening kit if it were not for other obligations. Two nights to get it assembled, tested, and installed? Not bad. I was very pleased to see the display on Ham Radio Deluxe change as I rotated the VFO dial and changed bands. I know this is going to be an excellent accessory for my K2. This included the MPU v2.04 upgrade. It looks like Elecraft makes another quality kit. THANKS ELECRAFT! Mark Saunders, KJ7BS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] ATU K2 Question
John, There is an alternative to the KIO2. The KAT100 uses only a few control signals from the K2 and doesn't use the RS-232 interface. You can easily and inexpensively build a replacement for the control portion of the KIO2. Look at the circuit diagram for the KIO2 and for the KAT100 and the wiring of the cable between them. Only the ground and pins 6,7,8 and 9 are used (and one of those isn't needed, but I don't have the circuit diagram in front of me to look at right now). I ordered the plug that goes into the control board and the 15 mh inductors from Elecraft, and found everything else that I needed at my local RadioShack (the rear panel connector, a cable connector, a few capacitors and a small circuit board - the 2nd cable connector and the cable wire itself comes with the KAT100). If you want, I can send to the circuit diagram and layout of the 2 little circuit boards. One of the web pages that has information about building the KPA100 and KAT100 into a single EC2 cabinet has a section on using the KAT100 without the KIO2. I started with that, but found that the circuit diagram didn't quite agree with the Elecraft schematics or the cable wiring. Eventually I plan to add a KPA100, but probably not for a quite while and I didn't want to have to purchase the KIO2 when I would get one with the KPA100. 73, Bob W1SRB -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Don Wilhelm Sent: Friday, July 07, 2006 9:30 AM To: John Bahun; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] ATU K2 Question The KAT100 uses a cable to connect it to the K2, and that cable plugs into either the KPA100 AUX I/O or the AUX I/O connector in the QRP lid. So the answer is yes if and only if you have the KIO2 installed in the QRP lid. If you do not have the KIO2, then you will have to wait until you build up the KPA100 to use the KAT100 tuner. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I have completed my basic QRP K2. I have the KAT100 tuner. My question is this... Can I use the KAT100 tuner in QRP mode without adding the 100 Watt Amplifier? Or should I build the 100 Watt Module and then build the KAT100 Tuner? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 VFO band to band accuracy?
I recently added a CW tuning indicator to my K2 (a very useful addition). The other night I was listening to W1AW code practice and wanted to see how well I picked it up one each of the bands on which code practice is sent. Tuning to W1AW on 160m, the side tone of the W1AW signal was essentially right at 600 Hz, as indicated by the CW tuning indicator. Switching to 80m and tuning to the W1AW frequency, there was a slight but noticeable difference in side tone and I had to tune up about 20 Hz to be in the center of the CW tuning indicator band width. On one of the other bands on which I could pick up W1AW (either 20m or 40m, I don't recall which one), the difference in side tone when tuned to the W1AW frequency was even more noticeable, and the CW tuning indicator didn't even light up until I tuned up about 40Hz. So, either W1AW's transmitting frequency accuracy isn't very good (not likely), or there is this noticeable variation in VFO frequency display accuracy from band to ! band in my K2. The difference is not very large (max of about 40 Hz) and is really not a problem, but it's enough that it's clearly detectable, both audibly and with the CW tuning indicator. Has anyone else noticed this, and is there anything I can do to get the tuning accuracy better across all of the bands? Thanks Bob W1SRB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Q: Building the K2
Jean-Francois, Of course, you don't need most of these neat things - I have a Panvise (an old one) and found it not very useful because it wouldn't hold the board once the components very close to the edge were put in. For de-soldering, I've been using de-soldering wick, which looks like a roll of very fine copper braid and sucks up an amazing amount of solder... best of all, a roll costs only a dollar or two from your local RadioShack or equivalent. A temperature controlled iron is a must, but you really need only one tip - I bought several, in several different sizes and temperatures, and after building the K2 and most of the options that would fit into it (plus some other add-ons), I'm still using the first soldering tip I started with. One tool that hasn't been mentioned but is cheap and very useful is a surgical hemostat - this looks like a cross between a small scissor and a locking pliers, and it serves as a small needle nose pliers that also locks. RadioShack and other electronics suppliers are now selling these for a few dollars for building electronic stuff. Bob W1SRB -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 3:18 PM To: Jean-Francois Joly; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Q: Building the K2 Hi Jean-Francois, Congratulations on your upcoming passing of the CW exam. Also, I think you've made a great choice in going with the K2, its a great rig. I don't think that you need too many tools out of the ordinary to build the K2, but it is certainly is a great opportunity (or excuse) to buy a bunch of neat stuff. Among the tools I bought, using the K2 as a reason (or excuse) were: a Panvise with the Printed Circuit board holder attachment a de-solder iron (got lots of use from that) a magnifier/flourescent lamp a temperature controlled soldering station (with lots of different tips) Silver bearing solder (before they said not to use it) Kesters multi-core solder (after they said not to use the silver stuff) a solder pot and a bar of solder (which I used before placing my order with toroid guy!) Of course after you finish the basic K2, they temp you with all sorts of things you just have to have, like dsp filter, ssb, et al. All in all building the K2 was a lot of fun and a very satisfying experience. Have a lot of fun building it and don't forget to post your questions here, these guys have seen it all and they are a great help. 73 de Tom WB2QDG -- Original message -- From: Jean-Francois Joly [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi all, I will be passing my morse code exam soon and I was looking for the best radio to start with for CW. Up to now I'm pretty sure I will go with the K2. I just wanted to know if any special tools are required to complete the kit? I'm aware of what they say in the advertisement... But still, once I bought an OHR100 kit, claiming that no special tools were required, but at the end of the alignement stage, they *assumed* you already had another transceiver as your main rig to tune the OHR. Is this the case with the K2? Thanks, Jean-Francois VA2JFJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 intermittent CW fault - help!
Michael, Yes, I had the mike plugged in, so that's a possibility. However, I tried reducing the power from 10 watts down to 2 watts or so and it had no affect (I don't have a KPA100). I also changed from my antenna to a dummy load, which also had no affect on the problem. But there could be some interaction problem with the mike PTT. The mike cable shield is connected to pin 8 on the connector, but the front panel chassis mike connector is not grounded. When this happens again, I'll remove the mike and see if that cures the problem. Thank and 73. Bob W1SRB -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Masleid, Michael A. Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2006 11:25 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 intermittent CW fault - help! Bob, is the Mic plugged in when this happens? /DOT-PTT is wired to the Mic input, and perhaps picks up RF if the shield ground on J2 Mic isn't working. Michael AB9GV --Hi All, -- I have an intermittent problem with CW on my K2 (ser 5309). ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 intermittent CW fault - help!
Hi All, I have an intermittent problem with CW on my K2 (ser 5309). My K2s been on the air for several months now on SSB and everything works fine. Several weeks ago, I attempted CW (not having had a CW QSO in 40 or so years), and it work OK for a few minutes -- then when I pressed the hand key (my trusty old J-38), I would get the side tone for a very short time followed by 2 shorter high pitched tones, then nothing (no receive either). Releasing the key, I got receive but pressing the key again, the same thing happened. After a while, I gave up, assuming that I had some wiring problem with the key or the key plug (it was rather a jury-rigged affair). Yesterday I re-wired the key with new wires and a new plug and tried again. Every thing worked OK for a few minutes (except the band was dead) and then the same thing happened. I have an iambic paddle (even though my code speed isn't quite good enough yet to use it) and I plugged that in. In hand key mode, the same thing happened. Putting the K2 into paddle and iambic B mode, the same thing h! appened when the side of the paddle connected to the center connector of the plug was pressed, but the side connected to the plugs middle ring worked fine. Reversing the paddle using the menu changed the sides for the dots and dashes, and the paddle side connected to the middle ring work, giving either a string of dots or dashes and expected. For the side connected to the plug's center, I would still get the short side tone followed by the two high pitched tones and then nothing. I the reversed the wiring of the paddle, and the same thing happened, the paddle side connected to the middle ring worked and the side connected to the center didn't. On the K2 schematic, the center is labeled as DOT/PTT. When running SSB, PPT worked fine. So, can anyone suggest what the problem might be and where to start looking? Thanks. Bob Solosko W1SRB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] DSP XTAL filter settings?
Hello All, I just added the DSP processor to my K2 and adjusted both the DSP and XTAL filters to the same center frequency using Spectrogram. The DSP and XTAL filters work fine together, except that when using the default filter settings, the DSP and XTAL filters essentially duplicate each other and it's not obvious what the best combination of filter settings should be and how the XTAL and DSP filters should be used in combination, particularly for SSB. I found a posting from Tom Hammond from January in which he recommends that for CW, because of the signal loss of the XTAL filters below 200Hz, use the DSP filters below 200 Hz. and the XTAL filters above 200 Hz. Thus, it seems that I should set the CW DSP filters to something like 200 Hz, 100 Hz, 50 Hz and LOPASS, and the XTAL CW filters to something like 1.5 kHz, 1.0 kHz, 700 Hz and 400 Hz. Then, when I want the wider bandwidth, I'd use one of the XTAL filters with the DSP filter set to LOPASS, and when I want the narrower bandwidth, I'd use one of the DSP filters (and since the XTAL filters all would have wider bandwidths, it wouldn't make any difference which XTAL filter is selected). That seems like a reasonable approach to the DSP and XTAL filter settings and combinations on CW. (Comments?) However, I have no idea how to set up the DSP and XTAL filters and what filter combinations to use for SSB. It seems to be a waste of the K2 capabilities just to have the DSP and XTAL SSB filters essentially duplicate each other, as their default settings seem to do. So, is there some optimum way to setup the DSP and XTAL filters and use them in combination for SSB that makes best use of the K2 capabilities? Thanks for any advice and suggestions that you can give me. Bob Solosko W1SRB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Using a KAT100 without a KIO2
Hello All, I plan to soon add the KAT100 to my K2 and eventually add the KPA100 (but probably not soon given budgetary constraints). I'd rather not have to buy a KIO2 with the KAT100, since it will come with the KPA100. On KK7P's web page describing remoting the KAT100, there is a circuit diagram for using the KAT100 without a KIO2, with a note that says it is untested. The risk is entirely yours. Has anyone used this circuit to avoid having to purchase a KIO2 with the KAT100, and 1) does it work? 2) is there any differences to the operation of the KAT100 with the K2? Are there other inexpensive alternatives? Thanks. Bob Solosko W1SRB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Why remote the KPA100?
Hi All, Even though I'm still building my basic K2, I'm already planning future additions, which include the KPA100 and the KAT100. I read a number of comments about putting the KPA100 in an EC2 case along with the KAT100 rather than in the K2 itself. What are the advantages and disadvantages of doing this? What else is needed? How is the KPA100 connected to the K2 for control and RF? Are there instruction, either with the KPA100 or from another source on how to do this? Thanks. Bob Solosko W1SRB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Thanks, and will this work as a microphone?
Hello All, Thank you to all of you who answered my query about building a K2 without having to remove components as I add options - the Rework Eliminators is just what I was looking for. Now for the next question - down in the bottom of my parts box was a handheld speaker/microphone that I picked up at a flea market a long time ago - it was probably from a CB rig as it has a 2 character display as well as the PTT switch, volume and squelch controls and an up/down switch. If I remove everything except the speaker/mic, PTT switch and up/down switch and rewire it, can I use it on the K2. Specifically, will the speaker/mic element work as a mic on the K2? Thanks. Bob W1SRB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FW: Building Advice Wanted
Hello - My K2 kit is in the mail and is expected to arrive next week. I ordered the K2, KSB2 and K160RX, so I'll be building those right away. Eventually I plan to add the KDSP2 and KPA100. It appears that all of these add-ons require some modifications to the basic K2. What should I do, or not do, when building the K2 to make it easier and to avoid problems when I need to modify it for the add-ons? All advise and suggestions are welcome. Thanks. Bob Solosko W1SRB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
