Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S noise blanker performance greatly enhanced (at my QTH) -- need testers

[Vic Rosenthal]

This is very interesting, because where I live there are sometimes strong noise 
sources perhaps from OTH radar or other applications which take out big chunks 
of a band.
The technique described is suboptimal because you sacrifice the roofing filter 
function in order to narrow the blanker's passband. Is there some way to do 
this without interfering with the filters?
My guess is that it would require a hardware modification. But maybe it could 
be a plugin replacement for the noise blanker board?
Noise is a huge problem for many of us and it will only get worse in the 
future. Any improvement to anti-noise features would be a big advantage over 
the competition.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO

> On 4 Feb 2016, at 5:03 AM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> If you have...
> 
> - really ugly noise sources that neither of the K3/K3S noise blankers 
> completely clean up, and 
> 
> - a 6-kHz crystal filter, and
> 
> - a narrow crystal filter (200-1000 Hz)
> 
> ...then you may want to try an experimental technique I've been using the 
> past couple of days. In many cases it produces dramatically improved 
> blanking, at least in narrow-band modes (CW, PSK, FSK). I've been able to 
> hear many weak signals that I simply couldn't hear before.
> 
> It may also work for SSB signals in conjunction with a 15-kHz crystal filter, 
> but I haven't tried that yet.
> 
> The kind of noise I'm talking about is often quite unstable, with a buzzy 
> sound, possibly drifting around a bit in frequency and amplitude. Light 
> dimmers, switching power supplies, and various other devices create such 
> noise. The noise may be narrowband: as you tune the VFO, you may find there's 
> a "hump" of noise that's anywhere from 2 kHz to 50 kHz wide. It may also have 
> very complex waveform with multiple noise pulses back-to-back in a burst. 
> 
> These types of noise are difficult to deal with. The IF blanker's signal path 
> may be too wide (0.2 to 2 MHz), resulting in too little energy in-band to 
> trigger the gating signal. The DSP blanker's RF signal path may be too 
> narrow, making it hard for the DSP to distinguish noise from desired signal.
> 
> * * *
> 
> Setup:
> 
> 1. Connect the radio to a computer running K3 Utility. Go into the 
> Configuration / Configure Crystal Filter setup screen.
> 
> 2. Find your 6-kHz filter (probably FL1 or FL2). Now the fun part: fake out 
> the firmware by entering a bandwidth for this filter that's just 50 Hz wider 
> than your narrow CW filter (ideally 250-500 Hz). *Do not* change the filter 
> offset. But *do* make sure that the 6-kHz filter's CW and DATA enable boxes 
> are checked.
> 
> 3. Click "OK" to save this experimental crystal filter configuration setup. 
> 
> 4. You will now find that when the WIDTH control is rotated from, say, 0.40 
> to 0.45, the XFIL selection will jump from something like FL4 directly to FL1 
> or FL2 (your 6-kHz filter). That, hopefully, is the boundary where magic may 
> occur, below.
> 
> * * *
> 
> The Experiment:
> 
> 1. Find one of your most offensive local noise sources. I have them on most 
> low bands. The stronger the amplitude the better. Narrowband sources may 
> provide the most dramatic results.
> 
> 2. Back down the AF gain control, then *turn off AGC*. You may need to use 
> the RF gain to keep the signal from clipping. 
> 
> NOTE: The reason for doing this test without AGC is to make sure you can hear 
> the full effect of applied noise reduction. AGC flattens out the receiver's 
> audio response, making it hard to compare different settings. (If you find 
> that the noise-remediation trick works, you can later turn AGC back on, and 
> while the effect won't be as obvious, any benefit in signal-to-noise ratio 
> will still apply.)
> 
> 3. Select CW mode and adjust the WIDTH control for your narrow filter's 
> bandwidth (example: "BW 0.40"). 
> 
> 4. Turn on the noise blanker (tap NB) and hold NB (LEVEL) to access the 
> blanker parameters. 
> 
> 5. Set the IF blanker to OFF (VFO B). Then experiment with the DSP blanker 
> settings (VFO A) to obtain the best possible reduction in signal.
> 
> 6. While still the LEVEL parameters are still displayed, adjust the WIDTH 
> control to the next step up (example: "BW 0.45"). This should kick in the 
> 6-kHz filter, *but the DSP bandwidth and filter graphic will still show a 
> narrow passband*. In other words, you're widening out the crystal filter but 
> making very little change in the DSP's internal filter bandwidth (15 kHz IF, 
> and AF).
> 
> 7. Now re-optimize the DSP noise blanker settings for the 6-kHz filter case. 
> Did the noise drop? (If you have a signal generator, e.g. an Elecraft XG3, 
> you might put an antenna on it and generate a weak signal right in the middle 
> of the noise to get more definitive results.)
> 
> 8. Try it on other noise sources. It may help on some but not others, due to 
> the wide variance in noise signals.
> 
> Please log your results and report them to the list, at least

Re: [Elecraft] Love me K3 line

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

Once you have a reasonably loud signal and an antenna that allows you to 
hear the DX, the most important attribute of a DX-oriented station is 
agility. You can tune the bands and when you hear something you need to 
be able to jump on it instantly. Get him before he's spotted and the 
pileup builds up. That's where the no-warmup, no-tuning KPA500 helps.


Once the pileup is going, you need to find the stations the DX is 
working and figure out the operator's pattern. That's where the 
subreceiver and the P3 are useful.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 1 Feb 2016 03:09, Paul VanOveren wrote:

I have worked both S Sandwich and S. Georgia Islands on 4 bands and CW and
SSB for ATNOs, # 343 and 344 for my DXCC credits. When I sold my Alpha 374
3 holer amp and purchased the KPA 500 I was somewhat concerned about the
pwr output difference. However I have worked probably 15 ATNOs since the
switch and have NOT missed working any station that I have wanted to work.
The P3 w/SVGA added is a great tool, particulary on CW, looking for a hole
to call in when the DX is listening 5 to 20 Kcs up...

NF8J
Paul
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Re: [Elecraft] KXAT100 "Hunting"

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

My guess is the same as yours -- common-mode current on the outside of 
the coax upsetting the tuner circuitry. If you have a large ferrite 
toroid (ferrite #31 should work on all bands), try winding several turns 
of the coax around it. It might work better near the rig or near the 
antenna.


Also, changing the length of the feedline might help. Odd multiples of 
1/4 wavelength are bad.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 30 Jan 2016 19:54, Dauer, Edward wrote:

My KX-line tuner (the KXAT100 installed in the KXPA100 amp) recently
started an odd behavior.  I wonder if anyone can help explain it.  When
tuning into an indoor Buddipole set at resonance, the ATU finds a
near-perfect solution when the power applied during tuning stays below
about 40 watts.  With the ATU set in “auto” however, if the power out is
higher than 40 watts the tuner hunts without stopping.  I have watched the
SWR readings change, often going briefly to 1.0 or 1.1:1, but the tuner
just keeps hunting, endlessly, even when the frequency is unchanged.  Yet
when it is first tuned at a lower power, either in Auto or Manual-tune,
and the ATU is set to Manual, it stays at the solution perfectly well no
matter how high the power goes.  I can live with this, just by tuning at
low power and then switching to Manual, but I wonder why the Auto function
works well up to a certain point but goes berserk at any power higher than
that?  Is the higher ERP sneaking back into the control circuitry somehow?

Ted, KN1CBR

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Re: [Elecraft] K3S DIGOUT1 question

[Vic Rosenthal]

DIGOUT1 isn't affected by RX ANT, or at least it wasn't when I used it to 
control an external amp some time ago. But a voltmeter will tell you for sure.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO

> On 27 Jan 2016, at 5:00 AM, Jim Miller  wrote:
> 
> I want an external signal that is only activated when 160 and RX Ant is 
> selected. That will be part of logic that detunes my TX antenna on when 
> receiving so as not to ruin my RX antenna pattern. 
> 
> Jim ab3cv
> 
> On Jan 26, 2016, at 9:38 PM, RIchard Williams  wrote:
> 
> You are correct in saying you can assert Digout1 on 160M.  That said, I am 
> not sure what you are trying to accomplish by tying it to enabling the RX 
> antenna?  You can accomplish the same thing by having 160M selected as the 
> band, and then tapping the RX ANT button.   That selection is remembered by 
> the K3 (or K3S), and every time you select 160M, the radio will automatically 
> select the RX ANT (which is exactly what I do here).
> 
> FYI, you can do the same thing for the 6, 10, and 12M preamp;  select each 
> band, turn on the preamp (flashing PRE on the display), and from then on, 
> when you select those bands, the pre amp will turn on automatically,
> 
> Dick, K8ZTT
> 
> 
> 
> From: Jim Miller 
> To: Elecraft Reflector  
> Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 5:22 PM
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3S DIGOUT1 question
> 
> According to the K3S user manual DIGOUT1 is per band and per antenna.
> 
> Does this mean that I could assert DIGOUT1 on the basis of 160m and the
> activation of the RX antenna?
> 
> 73
> jim ab3cv
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 raspy side tone

[Vic Rosenthal]

If it's a REALLY old K2 there is a modification that you should perform in the 
wiring of the control as well as replacing it. It's on the Elecraft website.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO

> On 21 Jan 2016, at 11:36 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Jacob,
> 
> If the AF Gain is scratchy when turned, the best cure is to replace it.  
> Those small pots are sealed, and I doubt that you could get any DeOxit into 
> the body of the control.  Even if you can get some inside the pot, the "cure" 
> will not be long lasting, you will eventually have to replace the pot, so 
> 'bite the bullet' and do it now.
> The carbon (or other material) that forms the resistive layer over which the 
> wiper rides can become pitted and work with extended use - there is no way to 
> fix that other than replacement.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 1/21/2016 10:53 AM, Jacob Chambers via Elecraft wrote:
>> Hello;
>> I have an older K2 that has developed a raspy, scratchy sounding CW note on 
>> receive. All bands affected. The transmit sidetone is clean as a whistle. 
>> Headphones or external sparker are the same. Seems like there is some 
>> popping and scratching when I bump or play with the AF gain control. Could 
>> that be it? And I'm thinking of spraying with DeOxit contact cleaner. Is 
>> that OK? Thanks!
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT} K5P Palmyra Mystery Island

[Vic Rosenthal]

Possibly this explains the deliberate QRM, which so far is all I can hear on 
their frequency.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO

> On 16 Jan 2016, at 11:30 PM, Doug Turnbull  wrote:
> 
> 
> Dear OMs and Yls,
>  Elecraft is a sponsor so perhaps this off topic account of Palmyra
> Island is of interest.   EI6IL did some research on Palmyra and came up with
> this link which gives an interesting account of dark happenings on Palmyra
> Atoll.A read of this may add some spice to your hunt.   Good luck.
> 
> http://mysteriousuniverse.org/2014/07/the-cursed-paradise-of-palmyra-atoll/
> 
>73 Doug EI2CN
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 and P3

[Vic Rosenthal]

I wonder if it would work in fixed mode or just in tracking mode? I know the 
K2's CAT command set is a subset of the K3's. It would be interesting to hear 
from someone who's tried it.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO

> On 15 Jan 2016, at 4:56 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> The answer is yes.  Actually a better answer is maybe.
> The P3 will tune to the K2 IF frequency, but the K2 does not have an IF 
> output.
> Clifton Laboratories used to have a Z1-K2 buffer amplifier to bring the 
> K2 IF out to the rear panel without loading the K2 IF system, however, 
> Clifton Labs has closed shop and the buffer amplifier kit is no longer 
> available.
> The documentation is still available on the website and the buffer amp is not 
> anything complex, so you may be able to build your own version of the 
> Z1-K2 buffer amplifier.
> Once you have an IF output from your K2, the P3 will provide the spectrum 
> display of the K2 IF without modification.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 1/14/2016 7:31 PM, Gee wrote:
>> Can I use my P3 with a K2? If so does it require a modification to either 
>> unit?
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] OT antenna question -- solved, soon to be fixed

[Vic Rosenthal]

I asked my XYL to press the key and watch the SWR meter, and to let go 
when it hit 3:1. Then she ran out and waved to me on the roof, at which 
point I went up the ladder and felt the bolts. Very high tech.


If I'm right that it's the bolt material, just changing to brass bolts 
should work.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 14 Jan 2016 20:14, a...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

Nice work Vic!  Let us know how you determined the stainless screws to
be heating?  Do you have an IR sensing gun with a tight pattern?
Also be curious to hear how you plan to change the connection method and
if successful?  All I can think of is a stainless hose clamp.

73, Mike  AC5P


On Thursday, January 14, 2016 11:40 AM, Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO
 wrote:


I would like to thank the numerous hams who responded to my plea for help.

The problem that was causing my SWR to rise with high power was not in
my shack. The tuner, balun, coax and open wire line were all 100%. The
trouble was at the connection of the feedline to the antenna.

The connection was made where stainless steel bolts passed through the
tubing. The bolts heated up rapidly when running over 500w. At first I
thought the connection was poor, but improving it did not help. From the
way it was heating (away from the point of contact of the lugs to the
antenna tubing) I think that it was due to the ferrous material
(stainless steel) of the bolts heating due to eddy currents in the
strong RF field.

I have experienced this phenomenon in amplifiers, but never an antenna!

I will change the method of connecting the line on Sunday and I hope it
will solve the problem.
--
73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

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[Elecraft] OT antenna question -- solved, soon to be fixed

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

I would like to thank the numerous hams who responded to my plea for help.

The problem that was causing my SWR to rise with high power was not in 
my shack. The tuner, balun, coax and open wire line were all 100%. The 
trouble was at the connection of the feedline to the antenna.


The connection was made where stainless steel bolts passed through the 
tubing. The bolts heated up rapidly when running over 500w. At first I 
thought the connection was poor, but improving it did not help. From the 
way it was heating (away from the point of contact of the lugs to the 
antenna tubing) I think that it was due to the ferrous material 
(stainless steel) of the bolts heating due to eddy currents in the 
strong RF field.


I have experienced this phenomenon in amplifiers, but never an antenna!

I will change the method of connecting the line on Sunday and I hope it 
will solve the problem.

--
73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] Wide CW Signals

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

My guess is that they are that bad.
Luckily, the ones that are hot-switching their relays won't be on the 
air for too long. At least, not with high power.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 14 Jan 2016 18:56, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:

Depending on the radio they are using, some are really nasty!

And with some that seem to run their radio in QSK mode, but without a
QSK qualified amp, that makes things worse as they are likely arcing and
sparking the relays.  Nothing like a good old spark gap transmitter to
eat up lots of bandwidth.

73
Bob, K4TAX





On 1/14/2016 10:48 AM, Amateur Radio Operator N5GE wrote:

Is there something wrong with my P3, or are all of those extremely
wide raged CW signals I see in the DX pile-ups really that bad?
ARS N5GE

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[Elecraft] OT antenna question

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

I'm having a problem which has me stumped. I'm going to describe my 
complete antenna and feed system because something in it is misbehaving 
and I don't know what!


My system works on all bands from 40 to 10 (or it should).

The antenna is a full-size 20m rotary dipole. It is all aluminum tubing, 
no traps or stubs. Just a dipole. I am feeding it with about 30 feet of 
"true ladder line," which is open wire line made of #16 insulated wire 
spaced about 3-1/4" with black PVC spacers every 18" or so, except near 
the antenna and the rotor where I've added extra ones so that the 
spacing doesn't change when the antenna rotates.


The line comes into the shack and is connected to a static drain, which 
is a box with two 10-megohm high voltage resistors to ground and a 
couple of spark gaps. Then a piece of 450-ohm window line about 3 feet 
long connects it to a pair of large air variable capacitors in series 
with each leg which knock out some of the reactance on 40m to make it 
possible to tune more easily. Then a very short piece of window line 
connects to a big 5kW DX Engineering 4:1 balun, spec'ed for tuner 
service, and finally via a piece of RG-213 18" long, to a T-network tuner.


My K3 drives a TL922 amp and I have an SWR meter in line.

Now here is my problem: it works OK on all bands except 40 meters. On 
40, it tunes up fine with low power, but when I run more than a couple 
of hundred watts, after perhaps 10 seconds of key-down, the SWR starts 
to climb. I have watched it go to 4:1 before I stop sending for fear of 
destroying something.


The SWR rises both on the meter in the tuner and the extra one I have in 
line.


Classic symptoms of something heating up. But what?

- The tuner components are all cold.
- The coax to the balun and its connectors are cold.
- The balun itself is just barely perceptibly warmer (I have to touch 
the core to tell).
- The window line, the static drain resistors, the air capacitors and 
all the connections in the shack are cold.


I know the SWR is astronomical on 40 meters, so currents and voltages 
are high. But nothing in the shack seems to be heating up. Any more 
ideas of where to look?


--
73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] Mushy CW in QSK at 38 wpm and above...

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

A K3 with the old synth will sound bad at 38 wpm with any keying method 
unless QRQ is on.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 11 Jan 2016 21:07, Gerry Hull wrote:

Hi Vic,

This is K3, not K3s, no synth upgrade (yet!).   This is a KUSB cable for
CW keying, Stock.

You know, I've never really noticed a difference with QRQ on or off.

But, I do see a big difference when I go between 38 and 40 WPM.   I'll
try the QRQ mode again and see.  I'll also test with someone with QSK on
and off.

Thanks,

73, Gerry W1VE / VE1RM

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Re: [Elecraft] Mushy CW in QSK at 38 wpm and above...

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

Is it a K3 (not K3S) which did NOT have its synthesizer upgraded?
If so, then you MUST have QRQ mode turned on or you will see poor CW 
above about 35 wpm. In addition, note that QRQ mode is automatically 
disabled when you turn RIT/XIT on or use SPLIT.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 11 Jan 2016 18:14, Gerry Hull wrote:

I was operating VE4EA in NAQP this weekend...

A couple of people said the CW sounded mushy.

I was running QSK, with N1MM DTR CW Keying using the KUSB.

I noticed, on the sidetone, that it got mushy around 40 wpm.

I don't know Cary's firmware rev.  Is there a fix for this?

(This is with RIT off).

Interestingly, I also used the K3S at VY1AAA, at the same speeds.  No
issues.

Did anyone notice this on the sig?  Is there a later firmware that
addresses his issue?

73,

Gerry, W1VE / VE1RM

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Re: [Elecraft] (K3) Low output power on 15 meters (new KYSN related ?)

[Vic Rosenthal]

I noted a similar issue and found that increasing the power supply voltage a 
bit returned full output. I think I have about 14.2v at the rig in receive 
mode. This was before I updated the synths so I don't think it's related to 
that.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO

> On 9 Jan 2016, at 6:09 PM, Bruce Meier  wrote:
> 
> Today I noticed that the output power on 15 meters does not reach 100w.  The
> max, according to the front panel meter reading, is 93w.  So, I ran the
> transmitter gain calibration and it did not help. I decreased the power to
> 90w and it reached 90w, so I gradually increased the power and it is fine up
> to 93w.  When set to 94w and above the max output is 93w.  I checked all
> other bands and with the exception of 17 meters they are fine. The same low
> power output occurs on 17 meters.
> 
> I then tried my other K3 going through the exact same testing order and
> received the exact same results. They are both the exact same configuration.
> 
> Specifics:
> 
> - testing into both a dummy load (2 different ones) and 3 different 15 meter
> antennas
> - both K3 rigs are running latest firmware (5.38 / 2.86 / 2.86 / 1.25)
> - The power supply voltage at the rigs is 13.8 and drops to around 13.0 when
> in transmit
> - Reran the Transmitter Gain Calib - no help.
> 
> NOTE: The new KSYN3As were just installed in both rigs including the second
> RX (2 weeks ago)
> 
> Suggestions?
> 
> 73,
> Bruce-N1LN
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] suggested PC???

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

I put together a new Windows PC about 2 years ago. The single component 
that seems to have made the biggest difference is a 250 GB solid-state 
drive (SSD). The computer boots in about 20 seconds (OK, the I7 
processor helps too), which is important to me since I don't like to 
leave it on all the time. I also got a 1 TB conventional drive which I 
use for backups.
One good thing about assembling a computer from components is that you 
can install the OS without all the junk that the manufacturers like to 
gum it up with.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/


Vic

On 5 Jan 2016 19:53, Jerry wrote:

Now that I have had my k3s on the air for a couple of months I'm
ready to interface it to a computer. I am planning on a dedicated PC
just for use in the shack. My only uses (that I can think of now) are
logging and control of the k3s, perhaps remotely at some point.


It seems to me an I7 processor of any speed would be adequate with a
500gb SSD and wifi capability to my LAN (I guess I could hard wire
this). What else do I need in the box in the way of
interconnectivity? Any need for a large amount of memory (>8gb)?


Any suggestions would be appreciated


Jerry, k1tgx
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S + SteppIR Controller+ MacLoggerDX

[Vic Rosenthal]

In other words, the Steppir controller should be connected to receive data but 
not transmit. Only two wires should be connected to it -- receive data and 
signal ground. I always forget the pin numbers, but you can google it. 

If it is connected like this, the computer will not know the Steppir controller 
is connected. I do this successfully with a Palstar autotuner.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO

> On 29 Dec 2015, at 1:25 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> David,
> 
> I do not use a MAC nor do I have the K3S, but from what I understand, you 
> should have the "RS-232 Y" cable to activate the SteppIR controller between 
> the cable between the K3S and the P3 XCVR connector.  That should allow the 
> SteppIR controller to hear the band data information.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 12/28/2015 5:09 PM, David Ahrendts wrote:
>> If you’re running a K3 or K3S with a SteppIR controller and MacLogger DX, 
>> I’ve got a question for you: RS232 frequency data from my P3 is split with a 
>> Y-cable between the SteppIR controller and the Elecraft KUSB cable that runs 
>> to my Mac Mini. However, to allow MacLoggerDX to initialize with the K3S, I 
>> must briefly disconnect the SteppIR controller (MacLoggerDX finds the K3S no 
>> available), allow MacLoggerDX to initialize with the K3S, and then 
>> re-connect the SteppIR controller to the Y-splitter cable.
>> Anyone have a work around? They do share frequency data very efficiently 
>> once initialized.
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] headphone impedance

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

I recently started using an old set of Kenwood HS-5 phones (8 ohm) after 
my cat chewed through the cord on my nice hi-fi phones. I noticed that 
the audio was much louder, I presume a result of the lower impedance. 
I'm even thinking about adding some resistance in series, because the 
audio gain is never past 9 o'clock, even with CONFIG AFG set to LOW.


The Kenwood phones also seem to have a much narrower frequency response 
than 'good' ones. Personally I like this.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/


On 28 Dec 2015 22:36, W2RU - Bud Hippisley wrote:

Perhaps this will help:

Look up the specs on a good home audio amplifier — say, QSC or Crown.
You’ll find something called “damping factor”, and it’s often 50 or
more.  Roughly speaking, it’s the ratio of the (loudspeaker) load
impedance to the internal (source) impedance of the audio amplifier.
So modern semi-pro and stereophile audio amplifiers are “grossly out
of specs”, as you put it.

I have a legacy, hernia-inducing McIntosh power amplifier,
circa-1960s, with output transformers and three taps — for 4-, 8-,
and 16-ohm loudspeaker loads.  Nothing I’ve owned since then uses
output transformers or matched loads.  Most audio amplifier designs
these days are voltage followers.  Most manufacturers don’t attempt
to match source impedance to load impedance.  Highly damped output
stages are “good” things to have.

Yes, it’s true that voltage-follower amplifiers deliver more power to
low-impedance loads than to high-impedance loads.  But if I were to
follow your line of reasoning to its logical conclusion in the home
audio arena, I would conclude that 4-ohm speaker systems are
sonically superior to 16-ohm speaker systems simply because they
require more output power from the audio amplifier to play my music
collection.

Does that seem like a reasonable way to choose your stereo system
loudspeakers?  Or headphones for your K3?

If your 100-ohm (or higher) headphones can’t provide reasonable
levels of undistorted sound pressure at your ears when your K3 or K3S
audio gain control is at, say, 9 or 10 o’clock, perhaps it’s time to
buy a new pair of “cans”.  That’s certainly gotta be cheaper than
reverting to a 75A-4 with its audio output transformer and 500-ohm
tap.

Bud, W2RU

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] 6M power setting anomaly

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

Thanks to all who answered. I guess I never noticed this before.

73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 20 Dec 2015 18:25, Gene Gabry wrote:

Hi Vic,

I have the K3S with 5.33 firmware and see what you see. I believe this is
normal. Page 9 of the manual (Transmitter - output power) implies 6 meters
will be lower power max, although 106 watts is never actually stated. Based
on the statements of a lower max setting for 6 meters in this specification,
it would be a reasonable assumption the max power setting would be something
lower than 10-160m. Also, when setting CONFIG:PWR SET NOR, 6 meters will
operate independent of the other HF bands. Supporting some difference on 6
meters.
I actually thought I saw a thread some time ago from Wayne or Eric
confirming the difference in MAX power sets on 6 meters compared to the rest
of the HF bands, but have not been able to find.

73 Gene N9TF

K3S 10057

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Vic
Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO
Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2015 7:51 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] 6M power setting anomaly

This is strange. Firmware 5.33. On 6 meters when the PWR control is turned
all the way up, the VFO B display only reads 106 watts. On all other bands
it is 110 watts.

I know that the actual maximum power output might vary per band, but
shouldn't the PWR control set the requested power to 110 watts on all bands?

Do others have the same result?
--
73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

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[Elecraft] [K3] 6M power setting anomaly

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

This is strange. Firmware 5.33. On 6 meters when the PWR control is 
turned all the way up, the VFO B display only reads 106 watts. On all 
other bands it is 110 watts.


I know that the actual maximum power output might vary per band, but 
shouldn't the PWR control set the requested power to 110 watts on all bands?


Do others have the same result?
--
73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] Advice on First HF Antenna

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

This is a very broad question! If I had no limitations, financial or 
regulatory, I would probably get a large Steppir beam on a tower at 
least 70' tall. But that is probably not what you are thinking of.


A simple, cheap antenna is a dipole up as high as possible -- no less 
than 30 feet in the air at the center, preferably higher. You could 
simply make a 'fan dipole' for 40 and 20 meters, fed with coax and a 1:1 
balun at the feedpoint.


An even better antenna is a 40 or 80 meter dipole fed with open wire 
line (see ). You can buy this assembled 
quite reasonably. It will work with the KX3 internal tuner plus a 1:1 or 
4:1 balun at the transceiver. If the feedline is at least 33 feet long, 
a 66-foot dipole will work on all bands from 80 through 10 meters 
(probably 6 meters too). Again, the higher the better.


You can buy all kinds of expensive verticals and clever compact 
antennas, but the above will outperform all of them for both DX and 
local work. Some of the expensive ones will be far worse. The only 
better antenna is a directional antenna like a rotary beam.


I'll let someone else answer your question about field antennas.

73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 8 Dec 2015 00:13, CRAIG SCHROEDER wrote:

I am pretty new ham and a brand new KX3/PX3 owner excited to try my
hand at DX'ing!  If you were buying your first HF base antenna,
primarily looking for performance on 20 and 40 meters, what would you
recommend?  Also, what do you suggest as a high performance field
antenna for QRP?

Thank you,

Craig KD0TXL

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Re: [Elecraft] N1MM CW issue

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

If you have a K3 with the old synthesizer, then you will have this 
problem with a paddle or with N1MM, or indeed with any source of CW. One 
solution is to activate QRQ mode (CONFIG CW QRQ = ON). There are some 
limitations, such as not being able to use it with SPLIT or RIT/XIT. The 
better solution is to buy the new synthesizer and replace it. In that 
case, if you have the second receiver, you need two synthesizers, which 
unfortunately will be expensive (especially in Europe).


The K3S comes with the new synthesizer.

I suggest you try sending with a paddle at the speed you want to use to 
determine if this is the cause.


There is also a problem with any computer-generated CW that it can be 
affected by other processes in the computer, especially if you are 
accessing the Internet for spots at the same time. The best solution for 
this is to get a Winkey device which will interface with N1MM+ and 
generate the CW.


Both of these issues could contribute to the problem.

73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 4 Dec 2015 10:14, Fausto Coletti wrote:

Hi all,

I noticed a problem with N1MM + in CW.
When I select a speed higher than 28-30wpm, the weighing between points and 
lines changes and,
at 40wpm the transmitted message becomes incomprehensible.
Any suggestions?

73, Fausto IK4NMF

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Re: [Elecraft] Hang-up on Relay Using QSK

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

Lee,

The Alpha 87A uses PIN diodes for t/r switching, so unless someone 
modified it, it's not the amp t/r relay, which is the usual culprit for 
this problem.


It could also be a poor connection somewhere in the antenna circuit. 
Sometimes a coax plug or socket is oxidized (or whatever) and it has 
high resistance for small voltages such as received signals; a shot of 
RF cleans it up.


I had a problem like this which drove me nuts for months. It turned out 
to be a corroded solder joint in a balun (at the antenna feedpoint, of 
course).


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 1 Dec 2015 19:06, KY7M wrote:

Towards the end of CQWW CW, I was having issues with the K3 not getting back
to receive when I stopped transmitting.  This was an intermittent problem -
if I keyed the radio again with a dit or two, I could get back to full
receive.  I could still hear signals, but greatly attenuated when the relay
would hang up.  I was using QSK with the K3 and my Alpha 87A.  I am not
seeing any fault indication on the 87A and I am trying to figure out if the
problem is in the K3.  I also have a KPA500 but have not used it in a
contest lately to know if the problem would repeat with another amplifier or
barefoot.  It seems to happen only after heavy use.  I think I experienced
it a week earlier in the WAE RTTY contest as well, but did not do as much
operating as in CQWW.



73,



Lee, KY7M

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Re: [Elecraft] Crackling in Headphones

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

See if you hear it with no antenna connected (or switch to ANT 2 if 
nothing is plugged into it).


That will tell you if it is some kind of noise that you are picking up 
or if it is being produced in the radio.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 30 Nov 2015 14:02, j...@kk9a.com wrote:

There are times that I have noticed a crackling sound in my headphones
with my K3S. This is not the normal band noise static that has depth, this
crackle sound seems very close to my ears.  I first noticed it with my
Heil headset and I tried wiggling the connection, changing the RX EQ
settings and turning on noise reduction but nothing had any effect. It
randomly comes and goes and I think I have also heard it on TX. I thought
perhaps it was related to the Heil brand headphones. Last night I plugged
in a new Sony professional headphone and the crackling sound was very
strong for a few minutes and then eventually went away. I have never
experience this with any other radio and I have no idea what is causing it
or how to make it go away.

John KK9A

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Re: [Elecraft] RFI in audio chain

[Vic Rosenthal]

I don't like 'ugly baluns', especially for the lower bands. If you do use one, 
you should wind the coax as a single layer solenoid, not a "hank" of coax. 
Also, as someone else suggested, you need a large number of turns for it to be 
effective on 80 m.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO

> On 23 Nov 2015, at 2:32 AM, Jan Ditzian  wrote:
> 
> In response to the balun recommendation from several hams, I apologize for 
> forgetting to mention that the vertical has an "ugly balun" both at the 
> antenna and near where the feedline enters the house.
> 
> Part of the reason I put the question to this group, after first thinking 
> that the amps group could help, was the fact that the IC-730 shows no RFI, 
> while the K3 shows extreme RFI.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jan, KX2A
> 
>> On 11/22/2015 6:36 PM, John Kramer wrote:
>> Jan
>> 
>> The easiest, quickest and cheapest method is to wind yourself an “ugly 
>> balun” in your coax cable line.
>> It must be located OUTSIDE your shack to choke the common mode currents from 
>> entering the shack.
>> Wind about 15 - 20 turns of your coax on a 6” PVC pipe. This will give you 
>> about 2500 ohms choking
>> impedance.
>> 
>> If there is still RFI getting in the shack, then purchase a commercial choke 
>> either from
>> http://www.balundesigns.com/model-1115d-max-choking-1-1-balun-1-54-mhz-5kw/
>> this will provide about 10 - 12 000 ohms of choking impedance, or buy one 
>> from
>> 
>> http://myantennas.com/wp/product/cmc-130-3k/
>> This one will give from 12 000 - 15 000 ohms of choking impedance.
>> 
>> These common mode chokes merely get plugged inline in your coax cable. 
>> Always better to locate
>> them outside the shack
>> 
>> 73
>> John
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On 23 Nov 2015, at 1:02 AM, Jan Ditzian  wrote:
>> 
>> I have a problem that appears to be changing, but I could use some help.  
>> The problem is RFI in the audio input (microphone input) when I use my 
>> vertical antenna on 40 meters.  Here is a rundown of what has happened:
>> 
>> I have a 67-foot elevated vertical that I can use on 80 and 40, and it works 
>> fine on CW.  However, on SSB, both bands, there clearly is feedback; there 
>> is no feedback on the other bands where I use a C3 yagi.  Initially, the 
>> feedback was so bad that the rig would go into oscillation, and I had to 
>> turn the amp to standby.
>> 
>> I recently purchased the new KSYN3A and decided to install it.  I replaced 
>> the K3 with my IC-730 backup, using the hand microphone that came with the 
>> 730.  The 730 did not have any RFI.  I finished the modification and 
>> returned the K3 as the operating rig.  Now, the RFI on 40 seems to have 
>> diminished substantially or disappeared, but it still happens on 75/80.  
>> However, it seems to be much less there as well.  I do not suspect that the 
>> KSYN3A had anything to do with this, but perhaps I tightened connections 
>> better when I returned the rig to service.  I also redid some ground 
>> connections.
>> 
>> The microphone for the K3 is an Audio-Technica that works well everywhere 
>> else.  It has a long cord, though.  I put a few toroids on the cord near the 
>> microphone connector and that has possibly reduced RFI a little, but it is 
>> still there.
>> 
>> Is there a possibility that a bypass capacitor is bad, or has someone else 
>> had the problem and solved it externally to the K3? For instance, has anyone 
>> found that a long string of ferrite beads has cured this problem?
>> 
>> Despite decades of operating, I am hardly a troubleshooting hotshot, and I 
>> would appreciate guidance.
>> 
>> Thank you,
>> 
>> Jan, KX2A
>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] RFI in audio chain

[Vic Rosenthal]

A vertical should have an RF choke at the feed point. This is sometimes called 
a 'balun', but in this application it is common mode choke.

To reduce RF pickup with ferrite beads or toroids at HF, especially on the 
lower bands, you need to wind multiple turns around the ferrites. Also they 
should be the appropriate type of ferrite material. 31 mix is good for 160-40 
meters.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO

> On 23 Nov 2015, at 1:02 AM, Jan Ditzian  wrote:
> 
> I have a problem that appears to be changing, but I could use some help.  The 
> problem is RFI in the audio input (microphone input) when I use my vertical 
> antenna on 40 meters.  Here is a rundown of what has happened:
> 
> I have a 67-foot elevated vertical that I can use on 80 and 40, and it works 
> fine on CW.  However, on SSB, both bands, there clearly is feedback; there is 
> no feedback on the other bands where I use a C3 yagi.  Initially, the 
> feedback was so bad that the rig would go into oscillation, and I had to turn 
> the amp to standby.
> 
> I recently purchased the new KSYN3A and decided to install it.  I replaced 
> the K3 with my IC-730 backup, using the hand microphone that came with the 
> 730.  The 730 did not have any RFI.  I finished the modification and returned 
> the K3 as the operating rig.  Now, the RFI on 40 seems to have diminished 
> substantially or disappeared, but it still happens on 75/80.  However, it 
> seems to be much less there as well.  I do not suspect that the KSYN3A had 
> anything to do with this, but perhaps I tightened connections better when I 
> returned the rig to service.  I also redid some ground connections.
> 
> The microphone for the K3 is an Audio-Technica that works well everywhere 
> else.  It has a long cord, though.  I put a few toroids on the cord near the 
> microphone connector and that has possibly reduced RFI a little, but it is 
> still there.
> 
> Is there a possibility that a bypass capacitor is bad, or has someone else 
> had the problem and solved it externally to the K3? For instance, has anyone 
> found that a long string of ferrite beads has cured this problem?
> 
> Despite decades of operating, I am hardly a troubleshooting hotshot, and I 
> would appreciate guidance.
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Jan, KX2A
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3s] REV setting keeps being reset automaticaly

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

Try changing bands with no software running that communicates with your 
rig. That will tell you if a program is doing it or there is something 
funny about your rig.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 17 Nov 2015 18:43, Amateur Radio Operator N5GE wrote:

Every time I change bands the REV setting reapears when I go back to
that band.  This happens on all bands.

I know how to turn it off by holding the ALT button when this happens,
but it's iritating to have to keep doing it.

How can I make it stop coming on to begin with?

ARS N5GE

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Re: [Elecraft] K3S DSP Filter Plots

[Vic Rosenthal]

I believe 5 dB is the correct number. But Lyle's suggestion to use the dBV 
function is a good one.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO 

> On 17 Nov 2015, at 1:04 AM, char...@k5ua.com wrote:
> 
> We are also going to assume that the K3 S-meter is 6 dB per S-unit all the 
> way from S5 to S9+40dB.  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Attenuator Turning Itself On

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

I have a 50 kW BC station a few miles away. I had to make a HP filter 
because of the IMD. But it was not strong enough to force the attenuator on!


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 15 Nov 2015 22:22, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Sounds like you may have a strong AM broadcast signal that is
overwhelming the K3 input.
MW signals will be attenuated by the Low Pass Filter, but those signals
below 160m will not be.
The K3 does have some suppression of AM Broadcast band frequencies, but
it may not be sufficient in your case.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/15/2015 3:13 PM, Dennis wrote:

Joe

Yes, I can turn the attenuator off once I'm on 160M, but within 2
seconds of turning it off
it will turn itself back on.

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 troubles

[Vic Rosenthal]

But why would a filter for a band that the operator had never used fail?

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO 

> On 13 Nov 2015, at 11:52 PM, Wes (N7WS)  wrote:
> 
> Why would one filter, that like just like all of the others is switched into 
> the circuit by a relay on each end, fail while none of the others do not?
> 
>> On 11/11/2015 1:32 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
>> 
>> The LPF is on the output of the amplifier. One possible cause of failure 
>> could be lightning.
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 w/KPA100 power resets after approximately 2 hrs of turn-on time

[Vic Rosenthal]

Try checking solder connections in the lowpass filter area of the kpa100, 
especially the toroid leads. Often bad connections produce temperature-related 
problems.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO 

> On 13 Nov 2015, at 3:27 AM, wa4ywm  wrote:
> 
> I originally posted this in July and I still have the problem. The issue is
> as described below past the dashed line. Note that the issue happens even if
> I haven't been transmitting.
> 
> Don Wilhelm helped me attempt to troubleshoot the issue. We eliminated the
> base K2 as the source. After that, at Don's suggestion, I installed the
> KPA100 upgrade kit - no success. At this point we gave up.
> 
> Recently I replaced D16 & D17 on the KPA100 after reading about similar
> problems caused by the damaged diodes. Still no luck.
> 
> Has anyone out there had a similar issue? 
> 
> 73,
> Jim Elmore WA4YWM
> 
> --
> I have a K2 serial no. 4729 with the 100W amp which I have been using for
> almost 10 years.
> 
> It recently developed a problem with the following 2 symptoms:
> 
> 1. After operating for some time (perhaps 1-2 hours) the Tune function will
> begin to display 1 W with a 1.0-1 SWR on all bands. It normally displays
> 22-23W with the correct SWR shown.
> 
> 2. At the same time, if I attempt to transmit, the K2 will apparently begin
> to draw too much current and it shuts down and re-starts. The Tune function
> also shuts the K2 down at this point.
> 
> I observed the same behavior on a dummy load - to eliminate an antenna or
> feedline issue.
> 
> I also left the power supply on while letting the K2 cool down to see if the
> supply
> was the source of the problem. Apparently not since the K2 would operate for
> a significant time after turning the K2 back on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-w-KPA100-power-resets-after-approximately-2-hrs-of-turn-on-time-tp7610298.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 QSK CW Audio Dropouts

[Vic Rosenthal]

I tried to hear this and didn't succeed. And I'm the world's most finicky QSK 
user.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO 

> On 7 Nov 2015, at 3:04 AM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
> 
> We're talking about two different things.
> 
> What OK1RP may be hearing is the ATU switching its relays when he first 
> transmits in a band segment that requires new LC settings. The firmware 
> attempts to do that between CW elements (in RX mode). This should be 
> extremely rare. (If it's happening more frequently, it could be related to 
> particular combination of AGC and QSK menu settings along with high QRM/QRN 
> on a given frequency. I would try selecting "OLD QSK" or "NEW QSK" to see if 
> that has any impact, and/or increase the AGC THR value.)
> 
> The PA temperature anomaly reported earlier should also be extremely rare, 
> and in fact no one had even mentioned it in years. Nothing has changed in 
> this firmware recently. But I'm working on a firmware improvement for that 
> and will discuss it later after testing.
> 
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
> 
>> On Nov 6, 2015, at 9:45 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>> 
>> Petr,
>> 
>> Yes, Wayne' explanation was that the PA Temp is sampled between characters 
>> in CW, so if one uses QSK and listens closely, you can hear the gaps in the 
>> audio when the K3 returns to receive.
>> 
>> You may find a change in a firmware upgrade coming soon, but I don't know 
>> when.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>> 
>>> On 11/6/2015 12:05 PM, ok1rp wrote:
>>> Hi all,
>>> 
>>> few days ago I realized on K3 (using latest MCU/FPF) weird receive audio
>>> dropout problem.
>>> It happends during QSK CW operation and it is hearable in audio in between
>>> TX periods > time to time but it is repeatable. I did not heard these
>>> dropouts during receiving only mode...
>>> Simply when I am listenning on K3 all is ok but when I am starting to call
>>> CW or I am making QSO then dropouts in audio are readable in between TX
>>> periods with QSK.
>>> 
>>> Is there someone with similar effect please?
>>> Is there chance that it is linked to K3S weird transmit audio dropout
>>> problem discussed in different threat?
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] High SWR no power out

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

Make sure the cable to the dummy load is good.

I presume you connected the cable to ANT 2 when you selected it? If not, 
try it.


If it is OK on one antenna, take off the cover and check that the 
antenna connector that doesn't work is plugged into the KAT3 as it 
should be.


Does this happen on all bands? That will tell you if there is a problem 
in the lowpass filters or the KAT3.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 5 Nov 2015 17:23, WR5DC wrote:

 I have a K3 that quit transmitting on SSB last night so I connected an
SWR/Wattmeter/Dummy Load directly to Antenna 1.  I held down the xmit button
and the display reads 16 watts. 99-1  high swr.   I have the optional
antenna tuner but it is in the bypass mode.   I also tried selecting ANT2
with the same results..   Anyone have any ideas before I send it back to the
factory for repair?



Dennis WR5DC


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Re: [Elecraft] P3 - Waterfall Marker?

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

I can usually get close enough to hear the station by eye without a 
marker, either on the P3 or on a 24" VGA.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 4 Nov 2015 20:14, Steve Ellington wrote:

All that's needed is a dot, pointer...something to act as a guide so we can
line up the waterfall with the spectrum's marker. It doesn't need to be a
translucent line.
The dot could be at the bottom of the waterfall since that's where the
desired signal is headed anyway.
Great minds at Elecraft can do this!
Steve N4LQ

On Wed, Nov 4, 2015 at 12:45 PM, Paul Saffren  wrote:


Hi Steve,

It's pretty hard to do what you want with the P3 hardware.  The P3's
hardware is nowhere close to what you can get with a standalone PC, but it
does alright for a standalone panadapter and offers some features not found
on traditional SDR systems.   There's really no way to draw a translucent
line down the waterfall display and still have the P3 run at a reasonable
speed.

Kind regards,

paul

Paul Saffren - N6HZ
Project Manager
Elecraft Inc. 831-763-4211 x122www.elecraft.com

On 11/4/2015 9:32 AM, Steve Ellington wrote:

Paul et al
"Freeze" locks up everything including the marker so how does that help?

When searching for signals we might see one on the waterfall that is half
way down the screen. We want to mark, click or do something to get us
exactly on frequency so we can either wait for the signal to return or try
calling QRZ however there doesn't seem to be a way to get on frequency
other than a rough guess.

At first when you mentioned "freeze" I was excited but now I find that
using freeze makes the situation even worse since nothing responds. I'm
just looking at a locked up system!

The marker needs to be independent of the displayed materialLike a
mouse on virtually any other SDR software.
Is that something Elecraft can do or is it impossible with this hardware
configuration?

Thanks
Steve N4LQ

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 has no output Help!

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

Check TX INH in the CONFIG menu. It should be OFF unless you are using 
that feature.


No, it's not TEST mode, because the TX light is on.

73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 31 Oct 2015 20:46, aver...@mchsi.com wrote:








My K3 has stopped putting out a CW signal!
Red transmit light comes on.No reading on SWR meter.Rcv. is working fine.VOX is 
turned on.Antennas are OK.
HELP!  Any suggestions?
Randy KK4BNC

Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE Smartphone

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Re: [Elecraft] IMD and supply voltage

[Vic Rosenthal]

As I think I remember, in California the limit was 1500 watts, unless you were 
calling an ATNO (all-time new one) in which case it was 5 kW.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO 

> On 30 Oct 2015, at 12:55 AM, Doug Turnbull  wrote:
> 
> Of course this is a comparison of these two amps.   Please note that
> 1500 Watts is only used for contests which we are allowed to use for some
> contests in EI but not for regular operating where our power limit is 400W
> output.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S In-Depth Review Coming Soon?

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

Operators disagree about K3/K3S audio. To me it sounds great, others 
dislike it. The best way to settle the question for your own, personal 
ears, is to find someone nearby who will let you use his/her K3S for a 
few hours.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 27 Oct 2015 19:53, Paul Clay via Elecraft wrote:

I was wondering if and when a full-on review of the K3S would be
forthcoming.  I'm a bit surprised that following its release there
hasn't been a lot of reviews posted (certainly no comparison to the
number of reviews that followed the release of the original K3).  A
comprehensive review of the K3S, particularly with reference to the
original K3, would help me to decide whether the main issue that held
me back from pulling the trigger and ordering a K3 some time ago
(specifically, the quality of the original K3's receive audio, and
the anecdotal observations that the K3's receive audio was "tiring"
to listen to) has been resolved in the K3S.

BTW, if such a review has already been posted or published somewhere
and I just missed it, I'd would really appreciate a referral to it.
(The holidays are approaching and my "wish list" is not yet complete.
)

Thanks!

- Paul N6LQ (happy builder, owner, and operator of an Elecraft
K2/100)

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Re: [Elecraft] When is mode A not mode A?

[Vic Rosenthal]

I want Logikey-type mode B.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO 

> On 23 Oct 2015, at 4:54 AM,   
> wrote:
> 
> I asked for specifics so we can suggest/ask Elecraft for them and all I've
> seen so far is generalities referring to emulation modes.
> Why so vague? Why don't you guys just specifically ask for what you want?
> 
> You guys are coming across as smug and arrogant. I'm sure that's not your
> intent.
> Ask specifically for what you want or ask Eric to close the thread.
> 
> 
> Jerry Moore
> CDXA, INDEXA, SKCC, Fists
> AE4PB, K3S - S.N. 010324
> http://www.qrz.com/db/AE4PB
> An Amateur is - Considerate, Loyal, Progressive, Friendly, Balanced, and
> Patriotic.
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S speaker vibration/whine

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

If you do this, be sure to leave some bare metal around the screws so 
there can be good electrical contact for shielding purposes.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/


On 22 Oct 2015 18:56, ae...@carolinaheli.com wrote:

Outstanding!! I’ll try that. I don’t listen to my rig often over the
speaker as I have some different hearing losses in each ear.



Jerry,

I have this buzzing in my K3, and have heard it in some (not all) of
the K3s I have built for friends. I have found that most of it comes
from vibration between the case top and the vertical metal pieces
that contact the top. If that's what you're hearing, you can minimize
it by putting some vinyl tape over the tops of the metal pieces.  In
each case I've seen,  the buzzing is worst around 400 Hz, near my
favored CW sidetone frequency!

73,

Randy, KS4L



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Received Signal Drops When Roofing Filter Switched In

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

I used the dBV function to match the filter gains so that there would be 
no difference when switching filters. In my case I found it necessary to 
set the 400 Hz filter gain to +5 dB. You can do it by ear, but either 
way you need a steady signal. I used my little Elecraft XG1 to generate 
a steady 1 uv signal.


Note that if you have the subreceiver, filter gains may need to be 
different. The easiest way to set them is with the K3 utility.


Regarding the RX EQ, I don't use it at all on CW, because at narrow 
bandwidths the pitches that you hear are determined by the width and 
shift. If you like to listen to CW with 2 kHz bandwidth, then it might 
be useful, but I don't.


You absolutely should NOT set the RX EQ to boost any frequencies on CW. 
Just cut the ones you don't want. This is because the RX EQ is turned 
off at bandwidths < 150 Hz. As a result, if you are boosting 400 Hz by 2 
dB, then when you go to a narrow bandwidth the boost disappears -- 
exactly what you don't want!


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 22 Oct 2015 03:13, engineercm wrote:

Thanks to all that pointed me to the filter gain settings accessible with the
Utility.  It was set at 2 db which is the recommended value in the K3
manual.  Now that I know where the parameter is, I'll experiment more with
weak signals.  The manual does not suggest going above 2 db claiming DSP
operation would be impaired in some way.

I've also concluded that the sharp drop in noise when the filter kicks in is
to be expected.  I found the same instantaneous drop in noise with the 200
Hz filter is engaged.  Not at all annoying; I was just trying to understand
this marvelous radio.

I'm primarily a CW op and will leave the Rx Eq set at +2db around the
sidetone frequencies and all others -10 or better.  That seems to suit my
ears and my current operating skill.

73 de Clark WU4B



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Re: [Elecraft] When is mode A not mode A?

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

Keyers are very different. For example, I am a mode B guy and a 
'squeezer', but I find mode B on the Logikey, the K3 and the WinKeyer 
have different timing demands. I have beaten myself into being able to 
use the K3 keyer despite formerly using the Logikey, but I had to make a 
conscious effort to do so.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/


Vic

On 22 Oct 2015 01:04, Roger Crofts wrote:

I love my KX3 and its little paddle. Unfortunately my keying is full
of mistakes. When I send the letter C for example, it often comes out
as CT or K. I thought the KX3 must be set to mode B keying, but no,
it was on mode A. I originally learnt to send on an ETM-3b squeeze
keyer many moons ago. The ETM-3b is a mode A keyer. I tried plugging
a Bencher paddle into the KX3 but the problem remained, so the paddle
is not the problem. Is the mode A, that I am used to, somehow
different to the mode A in the KX3?

Roger, VK4YB

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Re: [Elecraft] KRC2 rs232 to cpu not working

[Vic Rosenthal]

I got mine to work several years ago on Win 7. As I recall, I had to update 
both the firmware in the KRC2 and the utility program. It was tricky. I agree 
that Elecraft needs to clean up this situation.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO 

> On 21 Oct 2015, at 9:04 PM, John K9UWA  wrote:
> 
> ATTENTION: Eric
> 
> Elecraft has for several years been saying they were going to rewrite the 
> horrible KRC2 Utility Program that allows programming of the KRC2. And so 
> far they have failed to do so. Way back when about 4 years ago I did 
> manage ONCE to get the KRC2 Utility program to work and programmed 
> my KRC2. Yes today I would love to reprogram it to allow connection to a 
> SIX meter antenna. However as you say the program won't work. I tried on 
> Computer running XP and one running Windows7 both with direct real Serial 
> Port connection to the KRC2. No Luck for me. 
> 
> Eric many of us K3 users are using the KRC2 for band decoder to antenna 
> switching it sure would be nice if we could program the KRC2 easily to do 
> what we want.
> 
> Thanks
> John k9uwa
> 
> 
>> I purchased a used KRC2 band decoder.   Going through the tests in the 
>> manual, it works with the buttons on the KRC2, but I can not get the 
>> unit to communicate with my computer.  I downloaded the software from 
>> Elecraft, using Windows 7 or 10 and real serial ports (not usb-serial).  
>> What am I doing wrong? or is the unit bad?  I have not hooked  up the 
>> auxbuss to the K3 yet, wanted to make sure the bandmap and serial port 
>> work first.
>> 
>> Gordon -- N1MGO
> 
> 
> John Goller, K9UWA & Jean Goller, N9PXF 
> Antique Radio Restorations
> k9...@arrl.net
> Visit our Web Site at:
> http://www.JohnJeanAntiqueRadio.com
> 4836 Ranch Road
> Leo, IN 46765
> USA
> 1-260-637-6426
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KBPF3A < TT Jupiter on Broadcast Band

[Vic Rosenthal]

There is a high pass filter in the K3 to protect the t/r switch. It is in the 
circuit to the main antenna input. To listen to the bc band you should use the 
rx antenna input which is after the h/p filter.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO
Sent from my phone

> On Oct 21, 2015, at 1:36, Carl Jón Denbow  wrote:
> 
> I recently installed a KBPF3A in the sub receiver.  I've been surprised to 
> discover on direct A/B comparisons using the same antenna that my old TT 
> Jupiter is much more sensitive on the broadcast band.  A station that comes 
> in at S-6 on the Jupiter is maybe an S-2 on the K3s.   This is very 
> noticeable to the ear, as you might imagine.  I'm wondering if anyone else 
> has noticed that the KBPF3A is not exactly optimized for the broadcast band.
> 
> Also, I have another issue related to the Jupiter and the K3s.  I tried to 
> install my new SP3 so that I could switch between using it with the K3s and 
> the Jupiter with the front switch.  However, when I hook the K3s to the SP3 
> when the Jupiter is connected, it immediately mutes the speaker.  I can then 
> switch to the K3s connection, and it's working fine.  Switch to the Jupiter 
> and it's muted, unless I physically disconnect the K3s in the back of the 
> SP3.   I've looked at the rather simple schematic of the SP3, and I can't 
> figure out why this is happening.  It appears to me that something must be 
> shorting ring and sleeve in the K3s, but I can't exactly figure out how his 
> can be happening.  Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Carl
> -- 
> =
> Carl Jón Denbow, N8VZ
> 17 Coventry Lane
> Athens, Ohio 45701-3718
> 
> c...@n8vz.com
> www.n8vz.com
> EM89wh
> 
> IRLP 4533   Echolink 116070
> 
> PSK and JT65 Forever!
> =
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 No Receive, No Transmit - SOLVED

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

The TMP connectors are not that hard to insert, but the danger is that 
it is easy to apply too much force when they are not aligned properly, 
and damage the socket-board connection. You can lift the trace from the 
board if you are not careful (yes, I learned this the hard way).


The trick is to start them by hand and make absolutely sure the center 
pin is in its socket, and then push them all the way in with a tool like 
very small needle-nose pliers or forceps.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 20 Oct 2015 19:07, Bob wrote:

The cost differential probably makes that impractical.

However does anyone know if there is a tool for insertion and removal of
those TMP connectors?   I'd surely invest in one if I ever saw it.  They
definitely are a PITA.

73,
Bob
K2TK  ex KN2TKR (1956) & K2TKR .

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Popping noise in headphones??

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

Well, I have an old K3 plus new synths, I have the RX EQ set to zero dB 
all across its range, and I hear the noises. I would call them short 
tone bursts rather than pops, though.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 18 Oct 2015 21:16, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


On 10/18/2015 11:46 AM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:

As a point of reference, my old K3 with the original synthesizer
board pops when changing BW. It's most noticeable going from 150 Hz
to 100 Hz and vice versa.


There will be a slight pop when changing bandwidth between 150 and 100
Hz as the K3/K3S disables the RXEQ at bandwidths less than 150 Hz.  The
level of the "pop" will be related to the amount of EQ in use *around*
*the center of the passband* (e.g., "pitch").  If for example, pitch is
500 Hz and bands 4 (400 Hz) and 5 (800 Hz) are 0, there will be little
or no "pop".  However, if one has 400/800 Hz set for significant boost
there will be a fairly loud "pop" as the level changes.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 10/18/2015 11:46 AM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:

As a point of reference, my old K3 with the original synthesizer board
pops when changing BW. It's most noticeable going from 150 Hz to 100 Hz
and vice versa.
This is with normal AF gain and CM500 in rear headphone jack.

On 10/16/2015 6:01 PM, jim wrote:

I just got my K3 back from Elecraft.  They did the once over and
installed
the new SYN boards.


I have noticed a "popping" noise in the headphones as I change the
bandwidth
control, but ONLY as I transition from 200 Hz, 150 Hz, 100 Hz and 50
Hz.  I
have only checked this in the CW mode.


This popping noise was not there before sending the rig in.


I have the 500 Hz and 200 Hz crystal roofing filters installed, which
is the
same configuration as I had before sending it to Elecraft.


Any thoughts?


Tnx


Jim

W6AIM

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Popping noise in headphones??

[Vic Rosenthal]

Yes, I have it too, and I didn't notice it before installing the new synths. 
Doesn't bother me. 

Vic 
Sent from my phone

> On Oct 17, 2015, at 4:01 AM, jim  wrote:
> 
> I just got my K3 back from Elecraft.  They did the once over and installed
> the new SYN boards.
> 
> 
> 
> I have noticed a "popping" noise in the headphones as I change the bandwidth
> control, but ONLY as I transition from 200 Hz, 150 Hz, 100 Hz and 50 Hz.  I
> have only checked this in the CW mode.
> 
> 
> 
> This popping noise was not there before sending the rig in.
> 
> 
> 
> I have the 500 Hz and 200 Hz crystal roofing filters installed, which is the
> same configuration as I had before sending it to Elecraft.
> 
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> Tnx
> 
> 
> 
> Jim
> 
> W6AIM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Request Advice re K2 Build

[Vic Rosenthal]

But hold the capacitor by the lead, not by its body, when you do this. You 
don't want to accidentally apply twisting force between the lead and the 
capacitor.
I learned this the hard way when I built my K2 and I still remember it!

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO 

> On 16 Oct 2015, at 1:50 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Ted,
> 
> Use your long nose pliers to "de-kink" the leads before inserting into the 
> board.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 10/15/2015 6:42 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:
>> If you¹ll forgive what to the experienced will be a silly question . . .
>> 
>> Building a K2.  Some of the capacitors (e.g. the 0.047) have leads that
>> have a ³kink² in each side, about 2 mm from the cap itself.  (The lead
>> spacing is correct above the kinks and correct again below them.)  If
>> inserted gently into the PCB the component stops at the kink.  But that
>> leaves the leads too long, I think, contrary to the principle that short
>> leads avoid stray couplings.  So, two other possibilities.  One is to
>> ³dekink² the legs with needle-nose pliers - straightening them out,
>> allowing the body of the cap to sit on the PCB surface.  The other is to
>> pull the leads through the PCB until the kinks snap through and come out
>> the other side.  That sounds neater, but it seems as if it¹s putting
>> stress on the capacitor itself.  What¹s the best way to do this?  And why
>> are those kinks there in the first place?
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 VFO LINK - UNLINK

[Vic Rosenthal]

Are you using any rig-control or logging program? If so, see if it the problem 
happens when the K3 is turned on with the program not running.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO 

> On 16 Oct 2015, at 7:48 AM, F5vjc  wrote:
> 
> I have my K3 with dual receivers using latest firmware set to, CONFIG : VFO
> LINK set to OFF.
> 
> However, I find when first switching ON the K3,  VFO A and B are linked.
> The way out of this is to press SUB to engage Diversity and press Sub again
> to release Diversity, then A and B are no longer linked.
> 
> I do not want Linked VFO/s.
> 
> Anyone else see this behaviour?
> 
> 
> 73,  Deni - F5VJC
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Unplugging the radio to protect it

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

Very few hams, if any, disconnect EVERY cable from their rig when it is 
not in use. Having said that, it's certainly a good idea to have a 
common grounded entry point with suppression devices for power, antenna, 
phone, cable, etc. so there won't be potential differences between 
equipment in the event of nearby lightning.


But in my opinion, making total disconnection of the equipment a 
condition for warranty repairs is a statement that they don't take the 
warranty seriously.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 8 Oct 2015 16:46, Peter Pauly wrote:

I had an experience a couple weeks ago where the USB audio chip in my
Kenwood stopped working. Kenwood service refused to fix the problem under
warranty and blamed me for not unplugging every single cable to the radio
when not in use. I had only disconnected the antenna. Not the power, USB,
key, etc. No other equipment was affected and the USB CAT still worked, so
only one chip stopped working. The Kenwood service center even said they
have had tons of people with the same problem. That experience prompted me
to order a K3S and it's currently in a UPS truck somewhere between CA and
IN.

My questions for you guys and gals are:
Do you disconnect every cable when the radio is not in use?  What are
Elecraft's expectations or recommendations to us?  What chip does the K3S
use for USB audio?  How would Elecraft, the company, have handled this
situation?

Peter
W0VLL

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Re: [Elecraft] PC<>P3

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

Salvo,

I don't have an Ultrabeam, but I have an older Palstar AT-AUTO antenna 
tuner hooked up like this. I have simply paralleled the RS232 RXD input 
to the tuner with the TXD line from the P3 that goes to the computer. I 
did not connect the TXD line of the tuner.


The tuner is in a listen-only configuration. In order for this to work, 
my logging program must be running. It polls the K3 and the tuner sees 
the data from the K3.


I believe some are doing the same thing with SteppIR antennas.

73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 6 Oct 2015 12:18, Salvatore Irato wrote:

Hi all.
On behalf of a good friend I would ask if there is anyone out there is
using or having experience using a configuration like this:
PC<>P3<>K3>UB cntrl.
Starting from a PC, connecting a P3 and then a K3, all via RS232, then
via the same RS232 having chained a Ultrabeam (UB) dynamic antenna
controller.
I mean a UB as a paralleled target, over TX data for the K3 VFO data,
coming from the K3 both as a result of any manual or logger charnges
of the K3 QRG.

I don't have all this, as I lack the dynamic antenna, but I am pretty
sure that somebody had already solved successfully all that. Thus
having the Ultrabeam controller getting data from the K3. As to follow
with motion, UB, K3 and logger changes to a new band or in band
segment changes. Isn't?

I ask all this in the more general terms, i.e. cables schema,
preferred speeds, reference url's or and so on. Any information could
be valuable from whoever had made this working.

  TU in advance, BTW feel free to drop me a mail out of list, not to
use too much space here.


   73 de iw1ayd Salvo

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[Elecraft] K3 buglet

[Vic Rosenthal]

I have noticed this before, but it is so inconsistent that I hesitated to 
report it. Sometimes I notice a much higher SWR reported on my K3 than shown on 
an external meter when the KAT3 is bypassed. If I activate the KAT3, allow it 
to tune, and then go back to BYP, the readings agree.
I realize that this won't be a problem with the K3S, but thought it was worth 
mentioning.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S proper grounding?

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

The problem has nothing to do with grounding.

RF is getting into the house wiring. I suggest adding a choke balun at 
the feedpoint of the antenna to reduce "RF in the shack" and wrapping 
the power cord of the TV around a ferrite rod, toroid or bead for 
several turns. Google K9YC's RFI tutorial for details.


OCF dipoles are very bad for RF in the shack due to the degree of unbalance.

Radio Shack used to sell little square ferrite toroids that split apart 
so you can wrap wires around them without interference from plugs, etc.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 26 Sep 2015 20:41, ae...@carolinaheli.com wrote:

On 40m my TV turns off and on by itself when I transmit. I'm thinking that
it's related to grounding because I've not figured that out yet. I have a
roof mounted mast that holds my dipole. The coax comes down through the
roof, routes through the attic down inside the wall to the station. I've
been told I need to ground the feedline BEFORE it enters the house but I'm
not sure how to get a ground correctly up to the roof. No matter how I run
the ground a lightning strike would likely ignite my house inside the attic
if I run it inside the house. I have a low pass filter installed just
before/after the Rig.



The plan I'm thinking of so far.

1.   Run an 8 gauge dedicated power feeder from my main panel (on the
opposite side of the house) to the shack with a 20A breaker. The 8Ga is to
lower ground losses.

2.   Install a ground rod outside my shack and run a heavy gauge to the
shack to bond with the dedicated power line ground.

3.   Ground all gear in the shack to the dedicated power ground.

4.   ?? maybe do a run of 14-2 romex with all three leads bonded together up
to the mast, install a mast antenna switch and ground it with the 14-2.

Thoughts /comments?



Running only 100w into a Buckmaster 7 Band OCF dipole at 35' per the
instructions. The dipole is broadside to 45 degrees for EU coverage.



Thanks in advance. I've read A LOT on grounding but haven't seen this
scenario covered.





On another note I appear to have an allergy to my key. I just can't bring
myself to get on the air with it. I need the practice to get my speed.





Jerry Moore

AE4PB, K3S - S.N. 010324

An Amatuer is - Considerate, Loyal, Progressive, Friendly, Balanced, and
Patriotic.

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft SP3 External Speaker - New Thread

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

Will stainless screws be an option or standard? Will there be a special 
firmware utility program for it, and if so will there be an IBM 7094 
version? Will I be able to copy 75 wpm on it (I already know the answer 
to that one).


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 22 Sep 2015 19:19, Henry Pollock - K4TMC wrote:

I have just spent quite a bit of time reading all the mail relative to the
new SP3...but did not see these questions:

Will the SP3 have a serial number?  If so, can how can I get the number to
match my K3?

For those with the newer K3S model, can they get one with a SP3S logo?

Will there now be a SP2 to match the K2 model?  And, a SPX3?

73,
Henry - K4TMC

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft SP3 External Speaker details [Updated photos]

[Vic Rosenthal]

Just put a piece of PVC pipe, painted appropriately, over the bottom 6 or 8 
feet of the flagpole.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO 

> On Sep 15, 2015, at 6:11 AM, Fred Jensen  wrote:
> 
> OK, just curious here, how can a simple speaker with nice looking enclosure 
> get this much traffic on the list?  I'm pretty sure it doesn't have any DSP 
> firmware, I don't think it has any IMD figures, and I'm very sure it doesn't 
> need any 8 MHz roofing filters.
> 
> I may buy one [SO1R here], just for the looks, my KPA500 may be headed for 
> the auction block, I'll have a flag pole antenna, but I really don't want to 
> electrocute the neighbor kids or the bunnies who eat my grass. Remote to W7RN 
> will happen soon too.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Fred K6DGW
> - Northern California Contest Club
> - CU in the 50th Running of the Cal QSO Party 3-4 Oct 2015
> - www.cqp.org
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 to IC-7800 Comparison?

[Vic Rosenthal]

I bought a K2 the year it came out and I have one of the first K3s. I still 
hate the tap/hold interface. I paid what I feel was an obscene amount of money 
for a set of heavy, machined VFO knobs to replace the stock ones. I wish the K3 
had more room for controls, so there would be less overloading of functions.

But all this pales into insignificance when I dial down the selectivity and 
pick out the weak one in the midst of the pounding 20-over signals from nearby 
EU stations. And then there is the improvement in copy from diversity reception!

Everyone has different interests. Mine is to work DX on CW. Satisfaction 
doesn't come from a comfortable interface, but rather from achieving one's 
goals. The K3 is simply the best tool available to do that.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO 

> On Sep 14, 2015, at 10:51 PM, Luis V. Romero  wrote:
> 
> All:
> 
> 
> 
> OK, I will jump in on this one.  It's close to my heart.
> 
> 
> 
> My closest local ham friends are IC-7800 owners.  All 5 of them.  All of
> them have larger and taller antennas than I do.  I can hear everything they
> hear and, though I'm at a 500w transmitter disadvantage viz their kilowatt
> amplifiers, I can and do work everything they work with my K3.
> 
> 
> 
> My local club (Tampa Amateur Radio Club) is a 100% Icom facility with a
> 7700, two 7600'ds, one 746Pro and a 7100 in their HF "studios"  (more like
> "cubicles": there are 6 of them - one is reserved for "classic" AM rigs)  
> 
> 
> 
> I operated SS SSB two years in succession (2010 and 2011) at our clubhouse
> SOABLP using identical antennas (a C31XR at 108 feet, a EF240 at 118 feet, a
> C19X at 70 feet and a 80m Dipole at 90 ft).  In 2010 I used the club 7700.
> The receiver sounded really crunchy, much like my former TS850.  Lots or
> crackly splatter, lots of adjacent desense.  I use that rig often, so I know
> how to drive it.  It is never pleasant to use that rig in heavy QRM contest
> conditions.  The same can be said for the 7600'ds.  The 746 and the 7100 are
> worse by a long shot to the 7700.
> 
> 
> 
> The following year, I brought my K3 to the club and operated SS using the
> club's identical antenna complement.  Not once did I hear any crunching in
> the receiver, no splatter mess and no desense.  The contest was much more
> pleasant on the ears and all signals were much easier to copy on the K3 than
> on the 7700 receiver.
> 
> 
> 
> I love using the 7700, but not in a serious contesting environment. It
> reminds me of my  old TS850.  But I still love to use it!  The reason is the
> tactile feel of the 7700 and, a bit less by the same token, the 7600'ds
> feels like that too.  While the K3 layout is fine and very workable, the
> controls on the Icoms are just so incredibly smooth!  The "feeling of
> Luxury" is exuded by the 7700'ds tactile feedback from its controls.  As a
> NY friend says "It feels like buttah!". It's a hard concept to explain, but
> the feel of the Icom controls is really special. My K3 feels OK, just not as
> "silky" as the 7700'd. 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of like cars. Drive a Lexus SC430 for show, and a Lotus Elise for go.
> Two sports cars for different priorities.
> 
> 
> 
> If you are into luxury feel, "free" logo'd leather jackets, and 70lb
> transceivers that "feel like buttah", the 78/7700'ds are a great choice.  If
> you are into well behaved receivers, high operational performance in a
> compact, under 10lb lightweight package, the choice is obvious.
> 
> 
> 
> Takes all kinds to make a world!  I have my priorities, you have yours. 
> 
> 
> 
> Lu - W4LT
> 
> K-Line
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 / K3S Station setup question

[Vic Rosenthal]

Here's an idea to consider -- when I built mine I made the shelf out of 3/4" 
plywood with 1 x 4's attached to the front and back of the shelf. Screws and 
glue. This makes the actual thickness of the shelf about 3-1/2", but makes it 
strong enough that you don't need vertical supports except at the ends. 
Vertical supports always seem to be in the wrong places! 

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO 

> On Sep 14, 2015, at 10:28 PM,  
>  wrote:
> 
> It's been a while and I'm a huge proponent of measure twice cut once. I'm
> building a hutch for my operating desk. The desk is 4' wide x 28" deep (2'
> 4"). I'm right handed and my primary mode will be CW. I have both a Bencher
> paddle and a generic straight key. I need about 18" wide for my K3S and
> future P3. The K3S is 10"x10"x7.25"(stand extended and air gap above it.
> Planning to use a 1 x or 2 x 12 for the shelf and 1x for the vertical
> supports. 
> 
> Not sure on right to left arrangement with me sitting in the middle. Was
> thinking keys, then P3, then radio, then space to the left. 
> Allowing 3/4" for the end support, 9 inches for the keys to store, 3/4" for
> a vertical support, then 18" or so for the P3, then K3S, the 3/4 for
> vertical Support. That brings me 29.25" from the Right edge leaving 18" (if
> we subtract 3/4" for the end vertical support) for the Eventual AMP. If I
> eventually get the External antenna tuner it will go on top of the shelf or
> on top of the amp directly if it will fit.
> 
> Does this sound like a proper setup to operate CW with the arm on the
> desk..etc.. turn dials with the left hand..etc.. I'll have a laptop/monitors
> on top of the shelf and a smallish keyboard/mouse on the desktop.
> 
> Just trying to get it all worked out so I don't have to remake this thing
> several times.. why re-invent the wheel when someone has already done it
> right? 
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> Jerry Moore
> K3S SN# TBA Wednesday  
> 
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[Elecraft] Palstar AT-AUTO with K3

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

I have an opportunity to get a Palstar automatic tuner, the AT-AUTO. 
This is an older version, NOT the new HF-AUTO.


It has an RS232 interface which the manual says can be used in a 
listen-only configuration with transceivers that send frequency data 
from a CAT port. It does support the Kenwood protocol.


My question is: has anyone used this tuner with a K3, and if so have 
they been successful in having it get frequency information via the 
RS232 connection in this way?


--
73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 External key out

[Vic Rosenthal]

Are you sure you have VOX on and are actually going into transmit in CW mode?

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO 

> On Sep 7, 2015, at 8:22 PM, Gerry Villhauer  wrote:
> 
> I connected my K3, external key out to my loop antenna control box to shut of 
> the power to the amplifier when the K3 transmitter is keyed.  It works fine 
> in SSB mode but it CW it has no effect.  Did I miss a setting somewhere in 
> the menu?
> 
> Gerry, W0GV
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Options

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

I had both but ended up keeping the audio filter. I think it's a matter 
of personal taste, so if you have the opportunity to try a K2 with those 
options, it's worthwhile.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 7 Sep 2015 06:45, Dauer, Edward wrote:


Still exploring options for a backup rig for the K3.   (The KX3 stays
at the other QTH.)   Began looking into the K2.  The build sounds
interesting.  One choice that has to be made is between the KDSP2 DSP
filter and the KAF2 audio filter and clock.  Apparently it has to be
one or the other - not both.  Any advice about that choice?  Anyone
who chose one now wish they had done the other?  In case it matters I
plan to operate CW only, and would probably go for the internal
KPA100 and the external KAT100.  Thanks for whatever counsel might be
offered . . .

Ted, KN1CBR

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Re: [Elecraft] K3S - Ordered Today!!

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

I have K3 serial 7. Shaken, not stirred.

73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 6 Sep 2015 16:20, Phil Anderson wrote:

Are you looking for 007 or what? Perhaps 7373?

What would a cool number be?


Jerry Moore 
Saturday, September 05, 2015 8:03 PM
YAY!
I ordered my K3S today. I'm really hoping I get a cool serial number

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 KIO2 - Serial to USB

[Vic Rosenthal]

You can use a USB to serial converter, but you MUST make a special cable to 
connect to the K2 that only connects some of the RS232 lines. Look at the K2 
manual for info. If you don't do this you can do serious damage to the K2!

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO 

> On Aug 27, 2015, at 4:27 PM, George Rebong  wrote:
> 
> My K2 has KIO2 RS232. Most of the computers now does not have the RS232 DB9
> port. I wonder if I could use a FTDI serial to USB
> cable to connect my K2.
> 
> 73
> -- 
> George Rebong
>  KE6TE
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S SubRx Question

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

Both receivers are muted on transmit regardless of the antenna 
connections. The carrier operated relay will protect the receiver (or 
not), but it doesn't have any effect on what you hear.


Don't know about the schematic.

73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 27 Aug 2015 14:07, ae...@carolinaheli.com wrote:

On a K3S with a SubRx installed and connected to AUX RF do you continue to
hear reception on the SubRx during transmit? The operations manual seems to
imply that you will unless the antennas are not sufficiently isolated in
which case a carrier sensing switch may engage in an attempt to protect the
RX (and there is something about the potential to damage the unit).

Also is the K3 schematic correct for the K3S?

Thanks in advance.
Jerry Moore
AE4PB

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Re: [Elecraft] If it plugs in, then it should work

[Vic Rosenthal]

Everyone is an idiot sometimes.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO 

> On Aug 24, 2015, at 1:33 AM, bs usb  wrote:
> 
> 
> George Danner wrote:
>> Once you start down the path to "Idiot-Proofing" equipment, you will soon
>> learn that the average idiot is much more clever than you ever imagined!
>> 
>> 73 George AI4VZ
>> 
> 
> Actually the real idiots are the ones attempting to do the idiot proofing.
> 
> I have never understood why anyone would want to build equipment that could 
> be used by idiots.
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 or Sub Rx?

[Vic Rosenthal]

If you are dealing with JA pileups, you only need a P3 because only the station 
that has been called by the DX will answer.
With EU pileups you will also need a subrx because everyone will be calling all 
the time.
USA pileups are in between.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO 

> On Aug 23, 2015, at 1:43 PM, Mike K2MK  wrote:
> 
> Hi Jerry,
> 
> There's 
> A. casual DXing
> B. contesting
> C. casual split pile-up chasing
> D. die-hard split pile-up chasing
> 
> For A you don't need either
> For B you should consider the P3
> For C you should consider the Sub RX
> For D you should order both immediately
> 
> If you get the P3 you will use it every time you turn on your radio. In
> fact, you will feel naked without it. If you get the Sub RX you will have it
> turned off most of the time.
> 
> 73,
> Mike K2MK
> 
> 
> ae4pb wrote
>> Just wondering what DXers who have the K3/K3s think. My main mode will be
>> CW
>> with my objective being DX primarily. With this in mind it's been
>> suggested
>> that the P3 would be more useful than the SubReceiver. I'm starting to
>> rethink that and just wondering which is the most useful for DX? I won't
>> be
>> getting the SVGA adapter unless I get it pre-owned and need it.
>> 
>> Thanks in advance.. just getting close.. 13 days and a wakeup :)
>> 
>> Jerry Moore
>> AE4PB, K3S SN # TBA
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Problem Solved!!!!

[Vic Rosenthal]

Glad it works, but this is strange. I always do firmware updates with the P3 in 
line.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO 

> On Aug 22, 2015, at 2:46 AM, pastor...@verizon.net wrote:
> 
> Well, it seems that the prolific cables do work with windows 10 and the K3. 
> Evidently you can't connect the cable to the P3 and then to the K3. It must 
> be connected directly to the K3. Once I did that the firmware loaded and 
> everything is back to normal. Hopefully Howard at Elecraft will read this. 
> Thanks to all the people that told me to connect the cable directly to the 
> K3. Mark Griffin, KB3Z
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Stuck in MCU LD

[Vic Rosenthal]

You should either get the usb to serial cable that you have working, get 
another one, or use a real serial port if the computer has one. The computer 
needs to be connected directly to the P3 with no intervening devices when you 
load firmware.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO 

> On Aug 21, 2015, at 3:12 PM, pastor...@verizon.net wrote:
> 
> Vic,
> The Digi-Keyer II is connected to the computer via USB. And then there is a 
> cable connected between the Digi-Keyer II and the P3. Then from the P3 to the 
> K3. I think it is a com port issue. Perhaps I should uninstall the interface 
> program and reinstall it again. I have a USB to Serial Port Male cable, but 
> windows 10 told me that it didn't have a driver for it. I will have to try 
> this once I get home from work. Thanks! Mark Griffin, KB3Z 
>  
>  
> On 08/21/15, Vic Rosenthal wrote:
>  
> Hi Mark, 
> 
> For firmware loading you should connect the K3 (or P3 if you have one) 
> directly to the computer, not via the Digi Keyer or any similar device.
> 
> Vic K2VCO/4X6GP
> Sent from my phone
> 
>> On Aug 21, 2015, at 2:39 PM, pastor...@verizon.net wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Vic,
>> Nice to hear from Israel. I haven't visited your country since the late 
>> 90's. I read about the forcing of the Firmware on page 45 of the manual. My 
>> problem is that with my computer keeps polling for a connection with my K3. 
>> Either I have to purchase a direct cable from my PC to the K3 or make some 
>> changes with my Digi Keyer. I have been running the connection between the 
>> Digi Keyer II and my K3 on Com Port 6. But it keeps searching different 
>> speeds on Com Port 6 and cannot connect. I'm sure once I solve that issue I 
>> will be able to force load the new firmware. Computer are just so much 
>> fun!!!  HA HA. Thanks again! Mark Griffin, KB3Z 
>>  
>>  
>> On 08/21/15, Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO wrote:
>>  
>> There's a procedure described in the K3 Utility Help menu under 
>> 'troubleshooting' called Forcing the K3 into "Firmware Load Required" 
>> Mode. Follow this procedure.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
>> Rehovot, Israel
>> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
>> 
>> 
>> On 21 Aug 2015 10:37, pastor...@verizon.net wrote:
>> > I am sending this message again, as it seems my first message never
>> > made it to the board. I was trying to load the new Firmware into my
>> > K3. Well for some reason we had a power blip during a storm and now
>> > my K3 is stuck in MCU LD. Right now the screen in dark when power is
>> > applied and MCU LD is on the screen. The Red TX light is flashing and
>> > after a period of time it will then go to the Delta F light which
>> > will flash yellow. I cannot connect to my K3 via my computer because
>> > I'm sure it's because it is stuck in the MCU LD error. How does one
>> > reset their K3. I read about the EE Init where I Held in the Shift/Lo
>> > button while pressing the Power button and nothing Plus to get the
>> > K3 out of this state I need to shut off the power supply. Every
>> > button is totally useless. Perhaps I need to call the people at
>> > Elecraft once I get home from work this afternoon. Hopefully someone
>> > on the board will have a solution or someone from elecraft will see
>> > this message and help! Thanks! Mark Griff in, KB3Z
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Stuck in MCU LD

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

There's a procedure described in the K3 Utility Help menu under 
'troubleshooting' called Forcing the K3 into "Firmware Load Required" 
Mode. Follow this procedure.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/


On 21 Aug 2015 10:37, pastor...@verizon.net wrote:

I am sending this message again, as it seems my first message never
made it to the board. I was trying to load the new Firmware into my
K3. Well for some reason we had a power blip during a storm and now
my K3 is stuck in MCU LD. Right now the screen in dark when power is
applied and MCU LD is on the screen. The Red TX light is flashing and
after a period of time it will then go to the Delta F light which
will flash yellow. I cannot connect to my K3 via my computer because
I'm sure it's because it is stuck in the MCU LD error. How does one
reset their K3. I read about the EE Init where I Held in the Shift/Lo
button while pressing the Power button and nothing  Plus to get the
K3 out of this state I need to shut off the power supply. Every
button is totally useless. Perhaps I need to call the people at
Elecraft once I get home from work this afternoon. Hopefully someone
on the board will have a solution or someone from elecraft will see
this message and help! Thanks! Mark Griff in, KB3Z

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Re: [Elecraft] FS: K3/100, P3, KPA500, more...

[Vic Rosenthal]

You can pay by PayPal in US dollars and even add the commission fee if 
the seller requests. Who gets eaten alive by currency conversion is the 
buyer, not the seller.


With PayPal you have the same recourse regardless of the location of the 
buyer. And of course you can ask for payment in advance. Sure, in the US 
you can theoretically sue someone. Not practical for $2000.


It is the buyer that takes the risk of local problems, but if he wants 
to pay the premium for UPS or FEDEX, then he can bypass the local postal 
service.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 20 Aug 2015 20:31, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


On 8/20/2015 12:59 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

I also "don't get it". Especially those who specify "Continental
USA" or "Lower 48". Priority Mail to Hawaii or Alaska or even Puerto
Rico is just like that in the rest of the US.


The seller here specified that he would pay standard surface shipping.
Those costs are substantially higher to Alaska, Hawaii, and other US
Territories.  I can understand a limitation with regard to shipping.

 > Yes, International shipping is not difficult at all, just fill in the
 > customs declaration.

Customs declaration is only a small part of the issue ... most sellers
will get eaten alive by currency fees and there is no easy recourse if
something goes wrong in an international transaction.  It's one thing
for me to ship a "care package" to my son in VE2 and entirely more of
a risk to ship $2000 worth of goods somewhere in a "developing economy"
- particularly ones that have histories of "postal issues."

73,

... Joe, W4TV

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Re: [Elecraft] FS: K3/100, P3, KPA500, more...

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

I'm not being critical of Arlen (or anyone), but why do so many people 
selling equipment not want to ship it overseas? If the buyer pays the 
actual shipping cost, then the only difference is the single customs 
declaration the seller has to fill out, which takes about 2 minutes. 
Payment can be made by Paypal, and shipment can be by USPS, or to most 
countries by UPS or Fedex.


As someone who sent huge quantities of stuff from the USA to my kids 
here, I just don't get it.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 20 Aug 2015 18:33, Arlen Fletcher wrote:

I’m selling my K3/100 (S/N 81xx), P3 (S/N 31xx)  and KPA500 (S/N 6xx)
as well as some other misc equipment.  Continental U.S. buyers only
please!

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 & 2 x Amplifiers

[Vic Rosenthal]

All you need are diodes to isolate the keyout lines going to the amplifiers. 
Just turn off the amp you aren't using. You can use a simple transistor switch 
operated by DIGOUT1 to increase the current it can provide.
I would like to see Elecraft add the ability to control all the DIGOUT lines 
via macro to provide more station control functionality.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO 

> On Aug 16, 2015, at 5:09 AM, Michael Eberle  wrote:
> 
> Hi Mike,
> 
> I'm not sure if the Key Out and key line on the Aux port are isolated or not. 
>  At one time I had the KPA500, a tube amp, and a 2M amp for the internal 
> transverter all connected.  I used a KRC2 band decoder connected to a couple 
> of relays that would switch the Key Out signal among the three depending on 
> what band I am on.  It requires some extra cabling because it needs to also 
> needs to connect to the AUX port as well as the KPA500/KAT500.
> 
> With only 2 amps, you may be able to use a relay to switch the Key Out signal 
> controlled by the DIGOUT 1 pin on the Aux connector. You would have to set 
> DIGOUT 1 in the K3 config menu to 'OFF' on every band except for 6M where it 
> would be set to ON.  You would have to make sure to use a relay small enough 
> that it doesn't pull more current than the DIGOUT 1 pin can handle though.
> 
> 73
> Mike - KI0HA
> 
>> On 8/15/2015 5:20 PM, Mike VE3YF wrote:
>> Hi:
>> 
>> I would like to know if it is possible to hook up the KPA500 to the Antenna 
>> Port 2, use the KPAK3AUX cable and splitter cable from the K3 to KPA500,
>> and then other half of the splitter cable to the MK2R+. When in normal use 
>> the I would use Antenna Port #1, and when I want to work 6m or the KPA500
>> amp use Antenna Port #2.
>> 
>> I guess a question comes to mind, is the key out jack isolated from the 
>> keying line on the KPAK3AUX cable. I see that is being the major issue, but 
>> I am
>> sure I am not the first one to think of this possible setup. I welcome any 
>> comments etc. Tnx
>> 
>> 
>> 73 De Mike
>> VE3YF
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Features wanted

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

You can adjust the frequency of the APF peak with the SHIFT encoder. You 
can also tap the FINE button to get a slower tuning rate when you are 
using the APF. This makes it a bit easier.


In some conditions the APF makes the difference between being able to 
copy a station and not. Its usefulness depends on the nature of the 
background noise. Don't give up on it.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 6 Aug 2015 21:50, Greg wrote:

Also I would like to see the APF improved by allowing the peaking filter to
be "tuned" as it was on the FT1000D.  I almost always used the APF on the
Yaesu but end up turning it off when I try it on the K3.  I think the "peak"
is too narrow.
73, Greg-N4CC




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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 tuner

[Vic Rosenthal]

It would be interesting to compare the toroids and capacitors in both products. 
My guess is that they would be similar, and the difference in ratings is based 
on the degree to which the manufacturer wishes to be conservative. As I've said 
on numerous occasions, MFJ products are rated in MFJ watts, which are half the 
size of regular watts (Pmfj = 2EI).

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO

> On Aug 5, 2015, at 4:47 AM, G4GNX  wrote:
> 
> Hi all.
> 
> I am contemplating purchasing a KPA500 amplifier to complement my K3.
> 
> I currently have a MFJ 998 tuner which is good for 1.5KW but I think that the 
> KAT500 tuner from Elecraft will be a superior product. Would this be a 
> sensible assumption?
> 
> If I also buy the KAT500, will it easily interface with my Icom IC700 and is 
> there a specific setting that would allow me to use the IC7100 “Tune” button, 
> which allows tuning at reduced power (ISTR it’s set at 10watts)? 
> 
> 73,
> 
> Alan. G4GNX
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Re: [Elecraft] Diversity Reception

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

I use diversity (vertically and horizontally polarized antennas) on CW a 
lot, and there's more to it than just selecting the louder signal. I 
can't put my finger on the precise mechanism, but it seems that CW 
characters are less prone to being damaged by bursts of QRN in diversity 
mode.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 4 Aug 2015 07:32, Jim Brown wrote:

On Mon,8/3/2015 8:41 PM, Edward R Cole wrote:

However it is not always bad for the two diversity channels to be
combined for best signal.  The example is digital signals which the
human brain cannot process.  The example was given of using two
antennas of differing polarity for HF.


Combining, yes -- into different inputs of the analysis system. Again,
when signals combine IN THE SAME SIGNAL CHANNEL (emphasis added)
differences in the time/phase response of the two signal paths can cause
destructive interference which degrades decoding.

OTOH, in a sophisticated decoding system, there's certainly nothing
wrong with bring both signals in on separate inputs, then combining
them, or choosing the best signal, or even processing the signals to
enhance readability. But ONLY combining them on a single electrical
channel is a bad idea.

One of my neighbors (near Santa Cruz) has a VERY interesting UHF
repeater system. It's multi-site(five sites going on six),voted (meaning
that the RX with the best signal is transmitted), and simulcast (all
sites transmit at the same time). To make this work, Bboth audio and RF
are synchronized to the Hz using a GPS reference and some really
innovative use of low cost audio and networking gear. If you're
interested, look at wb6ece.org, especially the Technical Info page,
where there's video and audio of a talk that KA6SQG did at Pacificon
about his system (WB6ECE is his dad's call). The audio is not well
recorded, so you'll need headphones for good copy.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Linked VFO's -- usage?

[Vic Rosenthal]

I use the RX ANT button to give me b-b. I have programmed one of the 
programmable function buttons on the K3 to turn diversity on and off because it 
is faster than holding the SUB button. I haven't used N1MM macros for this 
because I don't use N1MM when chasing DX and I find these functions useful 
outside of contests too.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO

> On Aug 3, 2015, at 5:25 PM, Arie Kleingeld PA3A  wrote:
> 
> Vic,
> 
> I have the macro's  programmed under F9-F10-F11-F12 in N1MM logger.
> The response of the K3 to the F-keys is swift. Switching Diversity on and off 
> etc. is not as quick.
> Do you use macro's for this Vic?
> 
> 
> 73
> Arie
> .
> 
> Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO schreef op 3-8-2015 om 5:35:
>> 
>> What I do is switch antenna connections. My secondary antenna is connected 
>> to both the RX ANT and the sub's BNC input. So I can listen to the main + 
>> secondary antennas in diversity mode, just the main antenna with diversity 
>> off, or just the secondary antenna (regardless of whether diversity is on or 
>> off) with the RX ANT switch on.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
>> Rehovot, Israel
>> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Linked VFO's -- usage?

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

What I do is switch antenna connections. My secondary antenna is 
connected to both the RX ANT and the sub's BNC input. So I can listen to 
the main + secondary antennas in diversity mode, just the main antenna 
with diversity off, or just the secondary antenna (regardless of whether 
diversity is on or off) with the RX ANT switch on.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 2 Aug 2015 17:34, Arie Kleingeld PA3A wrote:

Hi all,

I might be one of few people who use the Linked VFO's in diversity, not
that I want to, but because I have to.

When listening to diversity I am stuck with the L-MIX-R setting to A-b.
Some times I want to switch from A-b to  A-A   or   b-b  and back again.
It is used when I need to listen to only one antenna because of very
weak signal or QRM via the other antenna to my other ear.
This switching cannot be done when the K3 is in diversity mode, which is
a pity. That's why I Link the VFO's. (All done with computer macro
commands of course).

It's probably not on the list for this to come in the firmware. It's
seems to be only Arie (me) that would appreciate the audio switching in
diversity :-)
The K3 is a very flexible radio, but not at this. If I only could switch
the audio when the radio is in diversity via a macro, that would be
enough. (Does not need to be from a front side button)

73
Arie PA3A

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[Elecraft] FTP download problem solved

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

Thanks to those who responded to my plea that I was unable to access the 
Elecraft ftp site.


I tried different browsers, the Elecraft K3 Utility, and a standalone 
ftp program with no luck. I disabled my antivirus and turned of the 
Windows firewall. Still didn't work.


Finally I tried to connect via a VPN. Immediate success!

So it looks like my ISP thinks I'm too irresponsible to be trusted with 
ftp. Grrr.

--
73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] P3TX Mon

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

I'm unable to access 

The browser says 'connecting...' and sits there. I've tried both Firefox 
and Chrome. I've done this before. Is it just me or is there a problem?


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 29 Jul 2015 20:39, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:

Yes, P3 f/w v1.5  is up on the website at:
http://www.elecraft.com/software/P3/elecraft_p3_software.htm

As with all of our s/w, it is a download from the site for the P3 and is
not included with the P3TXMON kit.

73,
Eric
/elecraft.com/

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: 630m amplifiers

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

A CW amplifier can be designed to run class-C but to be keyed in such a 
way as to pass through the linear portion of the amplifying device's 
curve when a CW element is starting or ending, in order to preserve the 
shaping.


A simple example is the tube-type amplifier that has just enough fixed 
bias applied to allow a small amount of plate current to flow (class 
AB), with a grid resistor that provides the rest of the bias as a result 
of rectified grid current as the drive ramps up. At full power the tube 
is running class C with bias way beyond cutoff.


Good 1950's technology that can be made a little more sophisticated and 
applied today!


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 27 Jul 2015 07:32, Alan wrote:


 > CW would be another mode that would not need a linear amp I think.

No, CW requires a linear amplifier.  CW is not constant-amplitude - the
amplitude changes every time you open or close the key.  A class-C
amplifier would mess up the key shaping, causing key clicks.

Any true FSK or MSK signal should not be bothered by a non-linear
amplifier.  The only caveat I can think of is that the amplitude of an
AFSK signal may have some ripple on it to the extent that the passband
of the transmit crystal filter is not flat.  But I doubt that's a
significant issue.

Alan N1AL

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Re: [Elecraft] Miniature self-supporting HF antennas

[Vic Rosenthal]

Well, I never operated from uncomfortable locations like above the tree
line, but my experience with portable antennas has been the same. Short
loaded antennas are not as good as wires. I prefer a dipole that can be
configured as a sloper, V, etc. I have  a 33' collapsible fiberglass
pole that has been useful where there aren't enough trees. It's not
really suitable for backpacking, but smaller and lighter ones are available.

73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 20 Jul 2015 12:46, Rick M0LEP wrote:

So far, I've found nothing that comes close, and there's nothing
more frustrating than getting to the top and then finding the antenna
you have is doing a poor job. I now regard anything which relies on
loading coils with deep suspicion. That coil's usually doing a fine
job of converting RF to heat. One such antenna I tested against an
inverted-V dipole turned out to be over 20dB down on the dipole for
40 metres.

On Sun 19 Jul Wayne Burdick wrote:

But the search for the ideal miniature HF antenna continues:
something both very compact *and* highly efficient. Ideally it
would break down to a length of 8" or less, do an excellent job on
20 meters and up, and earn a passing grade on 30 and/or 40 meters.

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Re: [Elecraft] Miniature self-supporting HF antennas

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Real Time Clock Battery replacement

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

I have K3 serial number 7 and I forgot it had a realtime clock or the 
last time I set it. It is off about 30 seconds now.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 18 Jul 2015 20:28, Geoffrey Downs wrote:

In the next few days I’ll be taking apart my trusty K3 #266 to
install K3SYNAs and do KBPF3 mods. As it’s seven and a half years old
I could also replace the clock battery while I have it exposed or I
could leave it to see how long it keeps going. Has anyone’s K3 clock
battery run down yet? Any views on how long it should last?

73 to all,

Geoff G3UCK

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Re: [Elecraft] Another one of those filter questions

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

You are correct that the offset is zero for 8-pole filters.

What I do is adjust the filter gains so that there will be no change in 
signal strength when switching filters. You can do this by ear if you 
turn off the AGC, or you can use the K3's DBV function if you are a 
perfectionist.


I found -- and you may get very different results -- that the following 
gain values were about right for my filter complement:


2.8 kHz  0 dB
1.0 kHz  1 dB
400 Hz   5 dB
200 Hz   6 dB

73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 16 Jul 2015 11:19, G4GNX wrote:

I purchased a 400Hz 8 pole (Inrad) filter and installed it in my K3 yesterday.
There were no markings on the box and some obscure numbers on a small label on 
the side of the filter case, but there was no offset figure.
The Cady book mentions that for 8 pole filters an offset is unnecessary, so I 
presume this is correct?
It also mentions adding a small gain figure of 1 or 2, what do others normally 
do for a CW filter?

73,

Alan. G4GNX

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 FD report in high RF (K3 vs Flex 6xxx)

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

A couple of years ago I asked W1RFI at Visalia how come they would 
include a picture of a very sharp keying waveform and a spectrum display 
showing loud clicks or phase noise but not interpret it for the less 
technical types. He said that if you want that you should write to the 
editor of QST and tell him.


So that is what we should do about these issues.

73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 1 Jul 2015 19:06, Jim Brown wrote:

On Wed,7/1/2015 5:17 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:

The K3 and Orion transmitters have much less spurious (particularly
transmitted phase noise from the K3) than most other transceivers while
the Flex is one of the dirtiest according to ARRL Labs.


Yes, ARRL Labs tests are damning, though you would never realize it if
you only read the text. When is ARRL going to assign technically
competent authors to these reviews?

That said, Flex did issue firmware/software that is said to reduce
keying sidebands. I've been trying to coordinate with a local 6700 owner
to test it here.

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] Frequency Limits by license?

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

It wouldn't be a good idea to depend on the transceiver. If you are 
operating USB, for example, you have to keep the (suppressed) carrier 
frequency several kHz below the top of the band so your sideband will be 
inside it; same for LSB and the bottom of the band. Even in CW there is 
a consideration of bandwidth, although the K3 series rigs have very 
narrow CW signals. But it would not be prudent to operate exactly on the 
band edge.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 23 Jun 2015 03:20, Fred Jensen wrote:

They also change from time to time.

It always was your responsibility to make sure you were transmitting
within the ham band.  I know it was my responsibility because I still
have the "Pink Slip" taped to the back of one of my log pages from that
era, more than one stage of my HB transmitter had decided to become an
oscillator.  Sadly, there was no firmware in my HB open-chassis 807
transmitter to warn me. :-)

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 50th Running of the Cal QSO Party 3-4 Oct 2015
- www.cqp.org

On 6/22/2015 3:09 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:


Part of the requirements for obtaining a license in the US is to know
and abide by the limitations of our license class - you just have to
look at the frequency display - it has been that way on all HF
transceivers that I have encountered and many of those were 'wide open'
and would transmit on any frequency that they were tuned to. It is the
responsibility of the operator to know where he is transmitting.  I
think it is an unwise thing to try to depend on the transceiver to tell
you that you are out of your band limits, but then I am an 'old timer'
with 'old thinking' - I would not want my transceiver to try to tell me
I am out of my band limits - I reserve that for my own judgement.

73,
Don W3FPR

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 with rigblaster

[Vic Rosenthal]

K9YC's grounding and choking methods are one part of the solution. The other is 
reducing the amount of RF flowing on your station equipment. Off-center fed 
antennas and verticals often produce common-mode currents on feed lines. 
Changing the feed line length away from odd multiples of 1/4 wavelength helps, 
although you can make the situation worse on one band while improving it on 
another. Antennas should have chokes or baluns at the feed points, and it may 
help to also have a choke where the coax comes into the shack. Take care not to 
ground the feed line on the antenna side of the choke, because this 'shorts' 
it, rendering it ineffective. 

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO 

> On Jun 15, 2015, at 11:33 PM, Don Latham  wrote:
> 
> I'm trying to use a Rigblaster plus with my K2 with 100 watt amp and tuner.
> I've also tried a MFJ TNC switch. Both for digital mode and microphone
> switching. When I use these devices I get interference when in mic mode from
> rf pickup. With the mic alone., no problem. Has anyone out there had this
> problem? I've tried ferrite chokes on all lines, routing the cables in
> different places, etc.etc. I'm totally stumped and very disappointed that I
> have to manually replug everything to accomplish a simple (?) switching task.
> Anyone out there faced this problem? Any advice?
> Thanks
> Don
> 
> 
> -- 
> "Noli sinere nothos te opprimere"
> 
> Dr. Don Latham AJ7LL
> Six Mile Systems LLC
> 17850 Six Mile Road
> Huson, MT, 59846
> 
> mail:  POBox 404
> Frenchtown MT 59834-0404
> 
> VOX 406-626-4304
> CEL 406-241-5093
> Skype: buffler2
> www.lightningforensics.com
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 / KX3 receiver observation - need explanation

[Vic Rosenthal]

Perhaps it was 3-phase hum? The really big amps run on 400V 3-phase circuits 
(no, Elecraft won't be making these)!

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO 

> On Jun 6, 2015, at 12:54 AM, Oliver Dröse  wrote:
> 
> Hi Gernot,
> 
> as I am hearing lots of similar signals from a few of the very very big guns 
> here in Europe contest after contest and no matter if using my K3's, the KX3, 
> or whatever other rig (i.e. FT-817, TS-590, ...), I'd suppose this is rather 
> a TX quality problem of them than one with your receivers. If you would hear 
> it on *every* strong signal than it would sound like an RX problem but I 
> suppose you also heard all the strong but clean signals, did you?
> 
> 73, Olli - DH8BQA
> 
> Contest, DX & radio projects: http://www.dh8bqa.de
> 
> 
>> Am 05.06.2015 um 16:07 schrieb g...@gmx.net:
>> Hello everybody,
>> during the WPX contest I noticed some weird sounds in the K2 when tuning to 
>> strong (>S9+20db) stations.
>> The sound was distorted, kind of ripple, but it did not sound like typical 
>> ringing.
>> I also noticed LZ9W booming in on 80m with S9+40db, producing 3 images in 
>> the K2 and the KX3. However, in the K2 the 2 ghost signals were frequency 
>> modulated. How could this happen?
>> Another big one, LY2W, also produced 3 signals in the KX3 but all the 3 were 
>> nice and clean.
>> 
>> I thought these ghost images would depend on the receiver architecture, or 
>> am I wrong here?
>> 
>> Regarding the first observation: Since the K2 is already > 10 years old, 
>> could component aging already play a role. If so, where to look for?
>> 
>> Thanks for any ideas!
>> 73
>> Gernot
>> DF5RF
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] (K3) Low power on some bands

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

Run the TX Gain calibration procedure in the K3 utility. And try another 
wattmeter!


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 5 Jun 2015 08:16, Jan wrote:

A strange thing just occurred.  I have been using my K3 regularly with
no problem, usually into an amplifier. Recently, I had an amplifier tube
short and I am using the K3 barefoot.  I was tuning up on 80 and saw
that my Autek WM-1 said that I was only putting out 70 watts into my old
1500 watt dry dummy load (SWR<1.35:1).  I checked the power setting and
it was adjusted to 100 on the K3 display.  I ran through the other
bands, and now I am fully confused.  Here is what I found, with the K3
display reading 100 watts at all times:

10 meters 95 watts
12 90
15 50
17 95
20 95
30 95
40 70
80 70
160   100

Does anyone have an explanation or cure?  Could it just be the old Autek?

73,

Jan, KX2A

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Re: [Elecraft] CQ WPX and the KSYN3A board?

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

You really need to do an a/b comparison, which of course I didn't do. I 
also just added a set of 5-pole 200 Hz filters. But subjectively my K3 
felt more comfortable than ever among the big 1-hop signals from EU that 
I experience. I found myself working closer than ever to strong signals.


For what it's worth, there also weren't as many clickers out there as in 
the past. That's progress.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 4 Jun 2015 02:17, Mike Weir wrote:

Good evening to the group, I was not able to participate last weekend
in the CQ WPX CW contest but I was wondering from those of you who
did and had the new KSYN3A synthesizer board in your K3's...how
was the performance ? What did you notice compared to the old
synthesizer board? Mike Weir VE3WDM

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 TX DELAY

[Vic Rosenthal]

Agreed. With a K3 you don't need any special sequencing -- just replace the 
relay with a reed relay for input and a vacuum relay for output (or two vacuum 
relays). It is much more pleasant even if you don't use QSK or VOX.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO 

> On May 31, 2015, at 7:21 AM, Guy Olinger K2AV  wrote:
> 
> Expecting a transceiver to somehow neutralize all amp obsolescence is
> putting the burden where it doesn't belong. And it really can't come
> close to doing the entire job.
> 
> Existing mod kits from Harbach, W7RY, etc, can convert many older amps
> internally (all the way back to SB200 SB220) to *excellent* modern
> status, QSK, modern interface voltages and behavior, good for years of
> slick operating to come. Array Solutions has an excellent external QSK
> device, for those who don't want to tackle an internal mod.
> 
> You didn't say which specific amp with slow frame relays. Many (most?)
> of these were designed back when the expectation was something like a
> footswitch or a toggle switch would be used to place the shack in
> transmit mode.
> 
> I own an FT1000MP.  On CW (only) it has a first in first out bucket
> brigade delay (menu 7-4 keyer break-in time) which allows it to apply
> T/R assert to the amp and allow continuously delayed CW up to 30 ms to
> be transmitted from the MP. With the clunkier amps actually needing
> the max 30 ms delay like my older AL1200, you had to listen to the
> input monitor on the MP if you were sending with a key. Listening to
> the actually sent signal would is so divergent from physical input at
> 30 ms that many simply can not send CW with it.
> 
> But it doesn't fix the parallel problem on SSB.
> 
> Even if the MP's delay was working OK for CW, there is no delay for
> SSB. This would require a continuous bucket brigade voice delay with
> sufficient fidelity. That isn't impossible, but a lot more expensive
> and complex than a faster relay. And it STILL does NOT fix all the
> issues of clunk involved. This includes the recovery time from T back
> to R so slow that in contests often the first baud or two of a reply
> would be lost while the relay is waiting for the contacts to restore
> the RX path through the amp, which now only has the spring to propel
> points to normally closed state.
> 
> IMHO to put it bluntly, any amp relay with T/R duties that won't close
> in 8 ms is obsolete and needs to be replaced by something modern.
> 
> The aftermarket mod boards will modify old tube amps for QSK, low
> voltage low current T/R keying (soft key), step start power-on etc.
> Amps modified with current QSK circuitry will switch quickly enough to
> support VOX on SSB. All the Ameritron amps have superior aftermarket
> QSK mods available, in addition to the manufacturer's own QSK option.
> 
> W2CS helped me QSK my AL1200 with the same circuit he used to upgrade
> his SB220. This was before the current crop of excellent mods were
> available. No excuses.
> 
> 73, Guy K2AV
> 
>> On Saturday, May 30, 2015, David Raymond  wrote:
>> 
>> I'm running an older borrowed K3 to get various I/O issues worked out while 
>> awaiting arrival of my K3S.  I am interfacing the K3 into an older tube amp 
>> with large open frame relays for antenna IN and OUT.  The maximum TX DELAY 
>> limit of 20 ms on the borrowed K3 is not enough to avoid hot switching the 
>> amp output relay contacts. I had the delay in my old FT1000MP set for 30 ms 
>> which was adequate with some margin (it had a max delay of 40 ms I believe). 
>>  Are there any options in newer K3's for more than 20 ms of TX DELAY?  
>> Hopefully the K3S will have more than 20 ms or my options for QRO are QRT. . 
>> hi.  73. . . Dave, W0FLS
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and PX3 with 2m Transverter comments

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

I don't have either a KX3 or PX3, and my 2m work is limited to FM, but 
the problems that you describe could be due to various fixable problems. 
For example, some P3s had spur problems due to bad electrical contact 
between parts of the enclosure, as well as improperly attached BNC 
connectors on the cable between the P3 and K3. I suggest that before you 
make any expensive decisions that you contact supp...@elecraft.com. I'm 
sure they will take your issues seriously.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/


Vic

On 27 May 2015 20:26, David Anderson wrote:

I bought a KX3 and PX3 with a view towards using them with an
external high performance transverter for 144MHz (with an IF of
14MHz). My main interest being weak signal operation on VHF. The
ability to use the I/Q outputs with a sound card or PX3 and the
excellent receiver performance in reviews seemed to indicate this
would meet my needs.

Unfortunately it looks like this is not going to work out for me, as
the level of radiated noise at VHF from both the PX3 severely masks
weak signals, there is also a huge radiated birdie from the KX3 near
144.4MHz.

Turning on the PX3  and listening on 144MHz gives bands of noise
every few kHz which mask weak signals in the noise and I can liken it
to listening to the 6m band with a Band 1 TV transmitter putting out
video sidebands over the band.

Without the PX3 switched on I can hear distant beacons in the noise,
but they are buried by the PX3 when it is switched on and plugged in
to the KX3. The antenna is 60 feet away from the rigs and is fed by
Heliax. Have tried separate supplies for transverter and PX3, running
from batteries on KX3, nothing seems to reduce the QRM from the PX3
to an acceptable level.

There also is a huge S9 spurious near 144.4 from the KX3 that is
independent of band/freq/mode. Confirmed by listening on another
receiver in the shack.

It is so hugely disappointing, I had looked forward to this day,
having finally got my rotator and antenna back up on the tower I am
faced with looking for another rig to drive the 2m transverter.
Unfortunately I don't think it will be Elecraft. Perhaps Elad might
be an alternative, but I need to consult the weak signal VHF
community first. I will keep the KX3 and PX3 for QRP HF work most
likely as selling it at a loss would be a bitter alternative.

On HF where the band noise and signal strengths are much higher I
don't find the same problems, though there are still spurious signals
shown on the PX3 there. I could live with them I think, but on what
is a nice quiet 144MHz band here, the racket from the PX3 is
impossible to put up with.

Incidentally I wonder what causes that big birdie near 144.4 from the
KX3, and if is it related to the similar one reported on the K3?
There doesn't seem to be a lot of commonality between the designs.

Sorry if this sounds like I am trolling, I am not, I love the
Elecraft ethos and products, it is just they don't appear to work for
my specific needs. Unfortunately it wasn't possible to try before you
buy here and I ended up being the guinea pig.

73

David Anderson GM4JJJ

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Re: [Elecraft] Amp power per $$ spreadsheet download

[Vic Rosenthal]

To really do this right, you would need to add factors for things like IMD, 
QSK, fan noise, duty cycle, ease of tuning, etc. Cost per watt is only one 
factor. Of course everyone would have their own personal concerns, so you could 
add a place in the spreadsheet where the user could weight the various factors 
appropriately. A CW operator doesn't care about IMD, a digital guy is very 
interested in duty cycle, a DXer wants instant turn-on and tuneup, etc.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO 

> On Apr 27, 2015, at 12:34 AM, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
>> On Sat,4/25/2015 7:35 PM, Phil Wheeler wrote:
>> Good job, Nick.  I didn't realize my AL-811H was so cost effective. Sure is 
>> a royal PITA to use, though. I'll give it away to someone local who will use 
>> it -- no way I will deal with shipping the beast.
> 
> I modified the spreadsheet a bit and re-sorted it. First, since we here in 
> the US are permitted only 1,500W, I set max power for those amps with higher 
> power ratings to that value. Second, just as Nick has included his used Alpha 
> 99, I added my used Ten Tec Titan 425s.
> 
> k9yc.com/PwrAmpdB.png
> 
> There are many features and properties of power amps that go far beyond pure 
> dB per dollar.  some examples:
> 
> The ACOM 1010 is a reasonably compact competitor to the KPA500, but it 
> doesn't cover 6M. I bought one used from K6SRZ (to have another amp for CQP), 
> who bought a KPA500 just to get 6M. Also, my occupied bandwidth tests show 
> that the KPA500 is a bit cleaner than that ACOM 1010. And the 1010 is a 
> single-voltage amp. It must be rewired to change it. The KPA500 can be 
> switched by removing, rotating, and reinserting the fuse block built into the 
> power plug.
> 
> The ACOM 1000 does cover 6M. Both it and the 1010 have manual antenna tuners 
> built in. Some of these amplifiers have built-in tuners, some of those tuners 
> are automatic or have memories. Some of these amps are much better built than 
> others. My Ten Tec Titans use high quality vacuum relays with logic to 
> prevent hot-switching, as do the Alphas. The Ameritron amps I've seen use 
> much cheaper open-frame relays, so their switching is much slower.
> 
> My Titans are quite clean -- P3 measurements of both the KPA500 and the Titan 
> look exactly like the K3 at the drive level required for rated power. But the 
> Titans, like the lower cost ACOMs, are "manual everything.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Transmit Monitoring Feature: $300? (Not)

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

This would be a big deal for me because of the insane cost of shipping 
anything bigger than an envelope to Israel.


On 20 Apr 2015 20:38, Wayne Burdick wrote:

It may be possible to modify W2 sensors for use with the P3. We'll
let you know when we get closer to releasing the product.

73, Wayne N6KR


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73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
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Re: [Elecraft] New synthesizer shipping status?

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

I also ordered on the 27th. On April 2, I was told they would ship in 7 
to 10 days. So that comes out as April 9 to 12.


Unfortunately for me, I will probably have to wait an additional 3 weeks 
or so before they will get through customs here!


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 8 Apr 2015 15:44, John Fritze wrote:

Anyone know how far along Elecraft is in shipping the new synthesizers for
the K3?  The only reason I ask is because I ordered a 3rd for our club
radio which I have been holding since the end of February (ordered on the
27th).  I wanted to get it installed so that one of our members can write a
"Go Back" program to reset our K3s to where we had them set before Field
Day started.  That way if a new op sits down after the previous op adjusted
things to their liking, the new op could reset everything back to the
starting point.

Since I felt there might be some changes with the new synth. I figured I
would wait to hand off the rig after the board is installed.

John Fritze Jr
K2QY
k...@arrl.net
ACACES president 2014
ARES ENY DEC Northern District
Hudson Div. Asst. Director
Twitter: @k2qy
401 261 4996 (cell)

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Re: [Elecraft] OT - Looking for vendor in Columbia, SC

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

I'm a little far from SC to answer your specific question, but my advice 
is to go to a big truck stop or other place that has CB equipment. They 
have all kinds of mobile antenna stuff. You could even pick up a "10 
meter" linear amplifier if you need one :-)


On 25 Mar 2015 03:06, Ian Kahn wrote:

All,

Earlier this week the mobile antenna mount for my Little Tar Heel II, a
Comet RS-840, failed irreparably. Unfortunately, I couldn't make it by the
local Atlanta HRO before I left town today.  I'm spending a few days with
my father in Columbia, SC. Columbia hams, are there any local stores that
sell ham gear, antenna mounts, etc? Where do you get your gear? I'd love to
pick one up while I'm here so I can have HF mobile for my return to Atlanta
in a few days.

Thanks and 73,

--Ian
Ian Kahn, KM4IK
Roswell, GA  EM74ua
km4ik@gmail.com
10-10 #74624  North Georgia Chapter #2038
PODXS 070 #1962
K3 #281, P3 #688 KAT500 #860, KPA500 #1468


--
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Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] RX antenna

[Vic Rosenthal]

The preamp is on or off per-band and per-antenna. So for example you could have 
it on with the rx antenna and off with antenna 1 and on for antenna 2 on a 
given band. Possibly when you turn the rx antenna on or off you are also 
changing the state of the preamp, and that is what the ham pod is announcing.
In this situation, you would see both rx and pre appear on the screen if both 
were on.

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO 

> On Mar 22, 2015, at 4:53 AM, Ian Westerland  wrote:
> 
> Hi!  My K3 arrived last Wednesday and has since been set up and is now in 
> use.  It is a great transceiver I am enjoying getting to kno.
> 
> I am using a Hampod to provide access via voice output and am wondering about 
> the RX antenna button on the K3 front pannel.  When I turn the RX antenna off 
> and on, the Ham Pod announces "Pre-amp." When I press the Pre-amp button the 
> Ham Pod annunces "Pre-amp enabled/ disabled" depending on which press of the 
> button is active.
> 
> Is the Pre-amp announcement on the RX antenna button what you see on the 
> screen?  I would have thought that the button for the RX antenna would be 
> announced as the Rx antenna off/on.
> By trying  out the transceiver I was able to interpret ok so am not having 
> any problems.
> 
> Thanks in anticipation of an answer/explanation.
> 
> 73
> 
> 
> Ian Westerland,  VK3vin
> 
>  
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Re: [Elecraft] W2 Watt meter suggestion

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

I'm sure it would be easy to add a pickup to the sensor yourself. It 
could be done with a toroid transformer placed on the center pin of one 
of the coax connectors.


On 14 Mar 2015 22:13, Jobst Vandrey wrote:

I operate almost exclusively with digital modes so I would REALLY like to
see a new feature on the W2 sensor module to allow a tektronix scope to be
connected for my K3 so I can monitor the transmission envelope.  I have the
CP1 directional coupler minimodule but putting that in line makes for a
cluttered mess with at least two more connections to create issues.

Any chance that this will be a future enhancement to the sensor module - or
is there another easy way to connect a monitor scope that I am not seeing.

Thanks

Jobst
AC0LP


--
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Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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[Elecraft] GCBAD [K3, P3]

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

So what does GCBAD mean? It's an abbreviation used by my once-teenage 
son and friends for Got Caught Being A Dork.


And I GCBAD again for failing to activate SPLIT.

I know we talked about this before. I have pretty much kept myself 
honest by using a macro to activate split and the subreceiver, etc. But 
it's still possible to get caught.


I've thought about it a lot based on the original discussion. I think 
there is only one thing (short of a bionic brain transplant) that would 
help me:


Optionally make the transmit cursor on the P3 and PSVGA either bright 
yellow or 'flash' (change intensity, not totally go on and off) slowly, 
or both.


I focus on the pileup, looking at the P3 and listening to the 
subreceiver to find the best spot to call. The problem is that I can 
turn on the subreceiver and do all this without activating SPLIT. I need 
an indication that I can't miss that says YOU ARE TRANSMITTING HERE.


I personally don't see red very well, so that's why I suggested yellow. 
The red transmit cursor doesn't stand out well for me. But some 8% of 
males have a problem of color perception, and my particular handicap is 
the most common.


Note -- I said /optionally/. I know it would drive some folks nuts.

--
73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Receive De-sense Problem

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

Hank, check the grounding of the SO239's. I believe the path is through 
some hardware. Also don't absolve the patch cables too quickly.


On 13 Mar 2015 06:30, Hank Garretson wrote:

For the past few months, I have had intermittent receive de-sense with my
K3/100-F, Serial 1523. Firmware 5.14, 2.13, 1.19 installed this week, but
de-sense was there with previous firmware.

Intermittently receive sensitivity will drop about ten dB. Usually happens
after transmitting, but sometimes happens spontaneously with no
transmitting. A dit usually restores sensitivity. If I don't dit,
sensitivity randomly restores itself.

CW, SSB, RTTY. All contest bands. (Don't do WARC.)

I have one-by-one eliminated my BCD antenna-switches, my ACOM amplifier,
and my antenna/dummy load switch. With these items in or out of line, I
still get intermittent de-sense.

Which leads me to believe the problem is with the K3 itself. (It could be
one of my coax patch cables, but I suspect not.)

KXV3 installed, but use ANT1.

SUB installed. Intermittent de-sense with and without SUB engaged.

Suggestions?

73,

Hank, W6SX



--
73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] Useful P3 feature

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

I don't want it to try to maintain the level automatically. I want to be 
able to recall the saved offset with a function button push. That way it 
is up to me if I want to reset it.


On 6 Mar 2015 18:16, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:

Wouldn't that need to be dampened a lot. What happens if there is QRN, you
wouldn't want to be pushing the real stuff down. It would NOT be a simple
function, and there would be wide variation on what seemed "slick".

73, Guy

On Fri, Mar 6, 2015 at 10:16 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV  wrote:



  I don't want to save the REF LVL. I want to save its relationship to

the noise level.



I agree.  Put another way, I'd like to see a reverse baseline "clamp" -
something along the line of holding REF LVL 5 dB below the average
noise level.

73,

    ... Joe, W4TV


On 2015-03-06 7:56 AM, Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO wrote:


Here is something I would like to see on the P3.

The P3 saves the REF LVL setting per band. But of course the noise level
on a given band varies as conditions change, and I find myself often
adjusting the REF LVL.

The optimum setting is with the REF LVL just below the noise level.
Setting it higher loses detail, and setting it lower fills the waterfall
with noise.

What I would like would be to adjust the REF LVL to optimum with respect
to the noise level and then save this relationship. Then I would like to
be able to push a function button to automatically adjust the REF LVL to
re-establish the same relationship.

This would make the readjustment, which I find myself making every few
minutes sometimes, much quicker and easier.

I don't want to save the REF LVL. I want to save its relationship to the
noise level.



--
73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] Useful P3 feature

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

Well, what I was thinking was that you could activate the option and 
adjust the REF LVL with the knob to whatever offset from the noise level 
that you wanted, and then save that 'offset'.


On 6 Mar 2015 17:16, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:



I don't want to save the REF LVL. I want to save its relationship to
the noise level.


I agree.  Put another way, I'd like to see a reverse baseline "clamp" -
something along the line of holding REF LVL 5 dB below the average
noise level.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 2015-03-06 7:56 AM, Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO wrote:

Here is something I would like to see on the P3.

The P3 saves the REF LVL setting per band. But of course the noise level
on a given band varies as conditions change, and I find myself often
adjusting the REF LVL.

The optimum setting is with the REF LVL just below the noise level.
Setting it higher loses detail, and setting it lower fills the waterfall
with noise.

What I would like would be to adjust the REF LVL to optimum with respect
to the noise level and then save this relationship. Then I would like to
be able to push a function button to automatically adjust the REF LVL to
re-establish the same relationship.

This would make the readjustment, which I find myself making every few
minutes sometimes, much quicker and easier.

I don't want to save the REF LVL. I want to save its relationship to the
noise level.



--
73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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[Elecraft] Useful P3 feature

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO]

Here is something I would like to see on the P3.

The P3 saves the REF LVL setting per band. But of course the noise level 
on a given band varies as conditions change, and I find myself often 
adjusting the REF LVL.


The optimum setting is with the REF LVL just below the noise level. 
Setting it higher loses detail, and setting it lower fills the waterfall 
with noise.


What I would like would be to adjust the REF LVL to optimum with respect 
to the noise level and then save this relationship. Then I would like to 
be able to push a function button to automatically adjust the REF LVL to 
re-establish the same relationship.


This would make the readjustment, which I find myself making every few 
minutes sometimes, much quicker and easier.


I don't want to save the REF LVL. I want to save its relationship to the 
noise level.

--
73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
__
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