[Elecraft] K3s and P3 Sale Price Reduced

2023-09-18 Thread Buck K4IA

K3S # 114** (Jan 2018)
100W ATU 2nd RX DVR MH4 Mic
Filters Main RX 250, 400, 1.0, 1.8, 2.7
Filter 2nd RX 2.7
Beautiful condition w/Cady Book
$3100 reduced to $3000

P3 #1755
VGA board and cables
Beautiful condition w/Cady Book
$700

Prefer to sell together $3,600  Plus shipping USA only ($100?)

--
Buck, K4IA
DXCC Honor Roll
8BDXCC
Author EasyWayHamBooks.com
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[Elecraft] K3S and P3 for sale

2023-09-11 Thread Buck K4IA
My K4 is now firmly affixed to the operating position and it is time to 
sell the second best radio I have ever owned.  Pics on request.


K3S # 114** (Jan 2018)
100W ATU
2nd RX
DVR MH4
Mic
Filters Main RX 250, 400, 1.0, 1.8, 2.7
Filter 2nd RX 2.7
Beautiful condition w/Cady Book
$3100

P3 #1755
VGA board and cables
Beautiful condition w/Cady Book
$700

Together $3,600 Plus shipping USA only ($100?)

--
Buck, K4IA
DXCC Honor Roll
8BDXCC
Author EasyWayHamBooks.com
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Re: [Elecraft] For Sale K3/100

2023-01-16 Thread Buck K4IA

You got a heck of a deal.  I've seen those P3/VGAs go for $800 or more.

Buck, K4IA
DXCC Honor Roll
8BDXCC
Author EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 1/16/2023 3:40 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 1/16/2023 7:14 AM, Marc via Elecraft wrote:
I rarely do not post a price when selling, but I am not sure what this is worth now. 



I recently bought an early serial number K3 and P3/SVGA from a member 
of our local contesting club for $2K. It had the second RX, both were 
loaded with 2-3 filters, and the P3 had the wattmeter.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] RFIth

2021-12-20 Thread Buck K4IA
The impedance increases with the square of the turns.  2 turns = 4 times 
the impedance.  It would take 4 chokes in series to equal one choke with 
2 turns.  A "turn" is one pass through the middle.  More turns is better 
until we get to very large chokes where the inter-coil capacitance 
lowers the impedance.


Buck, K4IA
DXCC Honor Roll
8BDXCC
Author EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 12/20/2021 9:49 PM, David Herring wrote:

Pete,

Yes. You either have to have lots of them, or you need to get bigger ones and 
run multiple turns through them. Also get the right “mix” for the frequency 
range in question. Type 31 is pretty good for HF.

Not an expert, but studiedhttp://k9yc.com/RFI-Ham.pdf  
<http://k9yc.com/RFI-Ham.pdf>,http://k9yc.com/RXChokesTransformers.pdf  
<http://k9yc.com/RXChokesTransformers.pdf>,http://k9yc.com/GroundingAndAudio.pdf  
<http://k9yc.com/GroundingAndAudio.pdf>  and others athttp://k9yc.com/publish.htm  
<http://k9yc.com/publish.htm>.  There is a wealth of information there, available for free.
  
73,

Dave - N5DCH





On Dec 20, 2021, at 7:21 PM, Pete Smith N4ZR  wrote:

Others can speak more authoritatively about this, but I thought those clamp-on 
cores, where they go right on the existing run of coax, offered too little 
inductance to be of much use below VHF.  Experts?

73, Pete N4ZR
Check out the new Reverse Beacon Network
web server at <http://beta.reversebeacon.net  <http://beta.reversebeacon.net/>>.
For spots, please use your favorite
"retail" DX cluster.

On 12/20/2021 8:02 PM, Bob McGraw wrote:

For those using the clamp-on ferrite devices, when installing them, be sure 
part A closes completely and solidly contacts part B. Otherwise, there is no 
flux path and the device is ineffective. If it is closed and loose on the 
cable, then that's good.   If it is closed or difficult to close, it isn't 
large enough for the cable and will likely not be effective.   Any gap between 
the halves renders it worthless for the application.

73

Bob, K4TAX


On 12/20/2021 6:18 PM,elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net  wrote:

Message: 11
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2021 08:34:24 -0800
From: Dave
To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RFI
Message-ID:<8cdb19ae-b111-5a6c-3f2a-d29efdd25...@nk7z.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

Hi,

Purchase some FT240-31 ferrite cores,
(https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1912768.pdf), and wind at least 5
turns of each cable going to, or from, the computer through the ferrite.

I have several of these, and they stopped ALL of my RFI issues with my
computer, and with a weather station I have as well.

Shop around looking for the best price, some folks are asking 10 bucks
for one of these, others are asking 5 bucks...  I use Newark, and
Digikey as my goto places.

Also look to K9YC's site, for more information on how to make the chokes...

http://k9yc.com/2018Cookbook.pdf

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist, RFI
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

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Re: [Elecraft] RFI

2021-12-19 Thread Buck K4IA
Bond the computer case and radio with strap.  That provides an alternate 
path for RF reducing the amount on the USB cable.


Buck, K4IA
DXCC Honor Roll
8BDXCC
Author EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 12/19/2021 7:24 PM, David F. Reed wrote:


Due to some HOA C&R, I am confined to attic and gutter antennas for 
the time being.


I am getting a bit of RFI on occasion into my PC; it manifests itself 
mainly by apparently disconnecting the com port from Commander.  When 
this happens, I can restore functionality by selecting a different com 
port, and then re-selecting the original correct com port.


I am grounded to a 10' ground rod about 8 ft. from the station via 2" 
copper strap. I did install ferrite beads on the USB cables at the 
back of the PC as well as on the power cord, and this has reduced the 
frequency of occurrence, but I would like to eliminate it altogether.


Any other ideas and suggestions would be most appreciated!

Thanks & 73 de Dave, W5SV
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Re: [Elecraft] HELP! XFINITY SHUT OFF INTERNET DUE TO HAM ANTENNAS

2021-10-21 Thread Buck K4IA
My bet is you have a rogue tech who couldn't find the problem and 
decided to blame you.  He greatly exceeded his authority and as soon as 
a higher-up hears what happened, this will be reversed.  Besides, since 
we know you aren't the problem, the problem is still there and his 
"solution" will be proven wrong.


Buck, K4IA
DXCC Honor Roll
8BDXCC
Author EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 10/21/2021 9:35 AM, Julia Tuttle wrote:

But remember, you're required to use the lowest power level feasible...

...so time to try for some really challenging DX, and keep your logs!

Seriously though, did you find out if they're actually kicking you off or
if this was just a grumpy local tech misguidedly trying to fix a problem by
threatening you?

73,

Julie

On Thu, Oct 21, 2021, 09:27 Al Lorona  wrote:


Jim beat me to it. I was also going to urge you to transmit as much as
possible on 20 meters with the highest power you can. The idea is to become
a hair ball that Xfinity can't swallow nor can't cough back up.

If anybody comes up to you to complain that you're still causing outages,
use the same twisted logic that Xfinity used and tell them, "That's
impossible. It couldn't be me because Xfinity has already disconnected me."

Al  W6LX/4




and 3) operate at you highest practical power
level as often as possible.
73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] K3s Crystal Filter Config Qustion

2016-07-03 Thread K4ia via Elecraft
In the utility, you tell the K3 which filters are installed.  They kick 
in when you narrow the DSP to within their range.  You can select when 
they kick in in another setting.


Buck
k4ia  K3 #101
Honor Roll 335
8 Band DXCC

On 7/3/2016 10:23 AM, Bill Leonard N0CU wrote:

I am uncertain on how to configure the radio's filters using the K3 Utility.
I have the 6 KHz & 2.8 KHz filters. I am totally confused by Cady's book,
which shows (pg 27) almost all of the ENABLE boxes checked. This doesn't
make any sense to me since I doubt the hardware can be configured with all
four filters inline, and even if it could, why would anyone want to use a
350 Hz filter on AM.

I assume that I check one box for each mode depending on which filter I want
used.

Thanks,

Bill  N0CU



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Re: [Elecraft] Headset

2016-05-26 Thread K4ia via Elecraft
The CM500 is offered on Amazon for $59.  Don't know about shipping to 
the Falklands.


Buck
k4ia  K3 #101
Honor Roll 334
8 Band DXCC

On 5/26/2016 11:44 AM, Brian Denley wrote:

I use the Koss SB45 headset.  Works very well.

Brian Denley
KB1VBF
Sent from my iPad


On May 26, 2016, at 10:14 AM, Mike Harris  wrote:

Hi,

If I remember correctly the Koss SB45 headset has been offered as a suitable 
substitute for the K3 weapon of choice the Yamaha CM500. Any experience out 
there?

My much used CM500 are starting to shed the leatherette covering and the foam 
inside the cavities is wearing away. CM500 can be rather difficult to source.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO
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Re: [Elecraft] Wide CW Signals

2016-01-14 Thread K4ia via Elecraft
Those extremely wide ragged looking signals are probably all the hounds 
chasing the DX fox.  You are seeing multiple signals, not one ragged one.


Buck
k4ia  K3 #101
Honor Roll 333
8B DXCC

On 1/14/2016 11:48 AM, Amateur Radio Operator N5GE wrote:

Is there something wrong with my P3, or are all of those extremely
wide raged CW signals I see in the DX pile-ups really that bad?
ARS N5GE

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 troubles

2015-10-20 Thread K4ia via Elecraft
Does anyone have a serial number for the changeover?  I don't see 
anything on the Elecraft wab page.


Buck
k4ia  K3 #101
Honor Roll 333
8B DXCC

On 10/20/2015 11:58 AM, ok1rp wrote:

Hi Jack,

if your KPA500 has LPF board rev. D or earlier then You will need to make
LPF TR Switch Rework REV5 modification, Elecraft parts kit: E850607. But
maybe there is another issue in your case.

Try to read first then decide. If you want and you have SMD tools then You
can try to make this mods first and test if it was the case. If not then you
can send to Elecraft service. If you have no SMD tools and experiences then
it is better to send it to them now. The people at Elecraft service are
great and professional so no worry about.

It is not complicated just a bit tight on the board and not so much space
around the parts to remove the old one. Must be done very carefully. I made
this mod on KPA500 for two friends already and in both cases amps worked
well after that.

Hope it helps.

73 - Petr, OK1RP



-
http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
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[Elecraft] Travel with KX3

2015-09-01 Thread Buck. K4ia via Elecraft


Just sailed through security at Reagan National, JFK and El AL on my way to 
Israel.  Had the KX3, a wire antenna and coax in the carry on.  Those are some 
of the toughest security check points in the world.  No one asked a question or 
wanted to open the bag.  
Listen for 4x/k4ia on the qrp frequencies.  Holiday style. 


K4iaBuck
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[Elecraft] K3 Sub Rx RF Gain issue and TX sticking

2015-07-02 Thread K4ia via Elecraft
The RF Gain control on the Sub RX acts weird.  It will seem deaf until 3 
o'clock on the dial.   Once past 3, the gain jumps up and then is linear 
if you turn it down.   This pattern will repeat if you turn off the Sub 
Rx and turn it back on again.  The main RX Rf Gain control is smooth and 
linear all through the dial range.   I have done the RX calibration 
routine on both receivers.


During Field Day, if I hit the Esc Key or the paddle to interrupt a CQ 
(N1MM+) , my external keyer (MKUSB) would stop keying but the rig would 
stay in transmit mode.  Tapping the XMT button would put the rig back to 
RX mode.


Ideas?

--
Buck
k4ia  K3 #101
Honor Roll 333
8B DXCC

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[Elecraft] Sub RCVR RF Gain dropping

2015-06-29 Thread K4ia via Elecraft
I have noticed that the RF gain on the Sub RX will often drop way down. 
I recall it happens when the SUB RX is first engaged.  But twisting the 
knob a bit brings it right back up.  This happened at FD when I was 
using the Sub Rx to S&P listening between CQs.


Ideas?

--
Buck,  k4ia
DXCC Honor Roll 333  8B DXCC
K3# 101  KX3 #715

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[Elecraft] Ham enthusiast arrested

2015-04-01 Thread K4ia via Elecraft
Ham-radio enthusiast, Hezekiah Bambershoot, of Ft Jackson, was arrested 
yesterday at police headquarters for disorderly conduct and assaulting a 
police officer.Bambershoot initially came to headquarters reporting he 
had been victimized by buying a radio from a mysterious Californian 
named Ellie Craft.


Ms Craft allegedly took advantage of Bambershoot by claiming to have 
down-conversion which he mistook for a syndrome of the same name. 
Bambershoot was happy with his purchase until his friends told him all 
the problems he should be having with his new radio.


According to Police spokesman, Ken Wood, "The poor man was distraught 
and raving about roofing filters.What the heck are roofing filters?"


The arrest report filed by fellow-ham, Officer Ike Com, listed 
Bambershoot's original complaint as "radio mushiness" but notes, "I told 
him all my radios sound mushy but he was upset he couldn't hear it on 
his.When we tried to calm him down he became unruly."


Su Yae, an EMT called to the scene, defended Bambershoot saying, "When I 
got there they claimed he was making clicking noises with his keys but I 
never heard any key-clicking.The poor man was just frustrated because 
his purchase had so many faults he couldn't find.I feel sorry for him."


Bambershoot is being held on $10,000 bond.Police are still searching for 
the elusive Ellie Craft.


--
Buck
k4ia

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Re: [Elecraft] More Power Pole. . Roll Pin substitute

2015-02-17 Thread K4ia via Elecraft

And therein lies the problem:
First, they may be cute but they ain't cheap
Then, you have to buy a special crimper
The assembly is tricky (up, down, right, left - did I hear it snap in 
place or snap in two?)
You could try to use a roll pin - oh no, those don't work as designed so 
you use a broken-off QTip
Even with the QTip/roll pin/toothpick, you have to superglue the halves 
together because they won't hold as designed

Then, you have to put a zip tie or tape around them so they don't pull out
Plus, they are flimsy plastic so they are prone to breaking

The Powerpole is a Mickey Mouse solution in search of a problem. What 
was wrong with the good old Molex?


To keep this on an Elecraft related topic, I just hope these things 
don't show up on any more wonderful Elecraft equipment.


Buck
k4ia

On 2/17/2015 5:08 PM, Terry Schieler wrote:

Similar to Phil's approach, rather than using the metal roll pin, I break off a 
wooden toothpick in the retention hole and put a drop of super glue on the 
toothpick.

Terry W0FM


-Original Message-
From: Phil & Debbie Salas [mailto:dpsa...@tx.rr.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 10:21 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] More Power Pole. .

I have to admit.  I hate those 2.1mm DC connectors.  Most are really not 
designed for current over 1-amp, though there are expectgions. I wish the KX3 
had Powerpoles on it instead!  I have Powerpoles all over my ham shack and work 
bench, and have had no problems.  Rather than used those roll-pins, I use a dab 
of super-glue to hold the connectors together.

Phil - AD5X


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Re: [Elecraft] Power Pole connectors

2015-02-17 Thread K4ia via Elecraft
You are about to ignite a firestorm with a debate about the merits of 
Powerpoles.  IMHO, there are only two kinds of Powerpoles, those that 
have already fallen out and those that are going to fall out soon.


Make double-plus certain you have the blades snapped into the shell 
properly.  Then put tape around the junction.  Cross your fingers.


Buck
k4ia
K3# 101  KX3 #715

On 2/17/2015 9:58 AM, Chris Hallinan wrote:

Hi list,

I've noticed that almost every time I move my K3, it powers down.  I
have little doubt it's the power pole connectors.  I soldered them,
and I'm pretty good with a soldering iron.  It seems to be plugged in
and fully seated.  But why is it so fragile?  I used the powerpole
connectors and contacts that came with my K3 kit.

Has anyone else notice this phenomenon?  Any advice?

Thanks and 73,

Chris
K1AY



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Re: [Elecraft] K3: best roofing filter on RTTY

2015-02-16 Thread K4ia via Elecraft
I attended Contest University at Dayton last year and the RTTY expert 
suggested he found that too narrow a filter compromised the decoding.  
It seemed to work best when the filter was a little wider.  He suggested 
500Hz and 250Hz only in the presence of strong QRM.  He did NOT like the 
dual-tone filtering in the K3 or Icom's twin-peak filter.


It is on slide 3 of the Advanced RTTY Contesting presentation available 
in the Files section on the Contest University website.


Buck
k4ia
K3# 101  KX3 #715

On 2/16/2015 12:47 PM, dm...@nexicom.net wrote:




David Moes
VE3DVY

Since I find that the 8 pole 250 Hz filter is really a bit wider I 
tell my K3 in filter setups its 300hz It  works fine for me this way 
including on RTTY


During the WPXRTTY this weekend   I had good luck copying weak signals 
right beside a power house signal using the 250hz filter.


--- Original message ---
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: best roofing filter on RTTY
From: Jim's Desktop 
To: 
Date: Monday, 16/02/2015  9:49 AM

The narrowest filter I have in both receivers is the 400 Hz one.  I
borrowed a K3 that had a 250 Hz filter in it once and tried it on RTTY.
It works, but it's right on the margin of being too narrow.  If someone
is using one of the older Packet TNC's that have RTTY mode in them (they
used 200 Hz shift instead of 170 and there are still a lot of them out
there) it's really hard to get them tuned in with a 250 Hz filter,
especially in weak signal/selective QSB situations.  The 400 Hz filter
doesn't seem to have that limitation though it does let slightly more
noise in (easily handled with the DSP filters anyway.

Jim - W0EB



On 2/15/2015 11:35 PM, David Cole wrote:


Hi,
I ordered and use the 400 for RTTY, I suspect the 250 is a bit to
narrow.




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Re: [Elecraft] [TowerTalk] Elecraft package for sale

2014-12-12 Thread K4ia via Elecraft
My scamdar is on high alert.  The offer itself seems benign but there is 
something just not right.  I will bet that when you get into the 
details, this will get fishier and fishier.  Someone got just enough 
information to seem legitimate. The offer to see the equipment will 
never occur for countless reasons.  Somewhere along the line, after you 
have been lulled in, this will degenerate.


I an in a business where we are targeted every day with increasingly 
sophisticated and believable stories.  When in doubt, just say no.


Buck
k4ia
K3# 101  KX3 #715

On 12/12/2014 6:26 PM, Nick Kemp wrote:

Regardless of all the arguments about the potential for a scam, the
final message should be "proceed with eyes wide open".

Nick
N1KMP

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Re: [Elecraft] Strange "Ticking" sound with K3/0 Mini to RemoteRig for remotely controlling K3.

2014-10-05 Thread K4ia via Elecraft
USB or serial port polling?  Try a different adapter or one that uses an 
optoisolater   

Craig Buck

> On Oct 5, 2014, at 5:36 PM, "Brian F. Wruble"  wrote:
> 
> Hi All:
> 
> The symptom I am describing persists despite changing routers, internet
> systems, and cities.  In a QSO this morning, the other parties reported a
> ticking sound on my transmitted signal --- faint but noticeable --- and I
> could also hear it in XMIT Monitor.  I was operating my remote gear as a
> test --- in the same room as the K3, and on the same LAN.
> 
> I have now set myself up 110 miles away, and the sound persists.  I am able
> to work others, get good signal reports, but I can hear the tick tick tick,
> about 2 per second.
> 
> In testing, I find the sound is there even if I power down the gear --- the
> radio and the control end.  It persists if I remove 12VDC from the K3/0
> mini.  Also if I remove the wifi module from the RemoteRig control box.
> 
> If I remove power from the RemoteRig, it goes away.  With power to the RR,
> the ticking goes away if I unplug the "TTL" line from the K3/0 mini.
> Unplugging the other lines makes no difference, though it becomes fainter
> if I unplug "Aux/Mic." It persists if I remove the ethernet cable
> connecting the RemoteRig to my router.  It persists if I unplug the USB
> line from the RemoteRig to my PC.
> 
> This symptom appeared after a good period of time when everything worked.
> And all functionality is still there --- just this maddening tick tick tick
> --- like something from Edgar Allan Poe.
> 
> All ideas gratefully accepted.
> 
> 73 de Brian W3BW
> 
> *Brian F. Wruble, C.F.A.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 AF Gain

2014-07-19 Thread K4ia via Elecraft
The AF Gain dial can also be used like a balance control.  When you say 
they are both set the same, what is probably happening is you have the 
balance control over to the one side.   Look in the Tech Menu for a 
setting called SUB AF. The choices are nor and balance.


If you are in balance mode and you want them to be the same you have to 
set the Sub AF Gain knob to the middle.


Buck
k4ia
K3# 101  KX3 #715

On 7/19/2014 5:11 PM, Mike via Elecraft wrote:

I know I'm probably stupid and missing something obvious, but when I turn
on the sub receiver it is much louder in my right ear than the main is in my
  left with the AF gain set the same on both receivers and both VFO's tuned
to the  same frequency. RF gain is set the same on both receivers.  I  have
one antenna connected to ANT 1 (which then goes to KPA500 then  KAT500).
The settings are as came from the factory and diversity is not  on.  I've
looked through the K3 manual and Fred KE7X's book and don't find  anything. Is
this the 3 db attenuation when signal split to both  receivers?  I would
think the attenuation would be equal. Firmware is the  latest. Sorry for the
bandwidth, it's probably something obvious.   Thanks.
  
Mike KD8RQE

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Re: [Elecraft] Unhook *ALL* connections before Lightning storm

2014-07-15 Thread Buck - k4ia via Elecraft
I have had several instances of nearby impulse damage and surge voltage 
on the AC line.  It could have been very expensive but for insurance.


I would put in a plug for either the ARRL or Ham Radio Insurance 
Associates equipment insurance.  HRIA will cover up to $5000 in losses 
for $136/yr including Mechanical Breakdown.  The two policies are very 
different so review them to decide which is best for you.


If you love your K Line as much as I do, you'll get it insured.

Buck
k4ia

On 7/15/2014 6:58 AM, Bill Blomgren (kk4qdz) via Elecraft wrote:

  And another warning: Nearby (like next door) lightning will be picked up by 
ANY long wires which end up acting as antennas.

I did computer repair in Florida.  I had a time share/multitasking system in a 
law office that had thousands of dollars in damage after the building next door 
got hit.

The terminals were plugged into serial lines back to the central system.  So 
were the printers. (Think: 6 processor unix type system with a network inside 
the box)

The tops of ICs were all over the guts of every printer, terminal and the computer let 
out the magic smoke.  ALL of the terminals and printers had been "unplugged" - 
but not from the RS232 connections.

The ONLY way to isolate the rig is totally unplug the thing: antennas, power 
supplies and so on... same with your computers.

Down in Florida, there are code required surge MOV's in every circuit breaker 
panel.  All they do is eliminate something close by.  They get vaporized by a 
direct hit.


KK4QDZ - Now with Extra Class Priv's, and a tiny KX3 to enjoy them!



  From: Keith Trinity WE6R 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2014 8:19 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Unhook *ALL* connections before Lightning storm
  


Hi all, I work on K3's all day and would like to advise/remind folks
that lightning comes in through ANY path it pleases, not just the antenna.
Time and time again folks say they unhooked their antenna but the
lightning took out the DSL modem, computer and K3 via the RS232 port!
Anything connected is a potential path...
Be safe! '73
Keith WE6R

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Re: [Elecraft] Hi Cur

2014-06-14 Thread K4ia via Elecraft
Does it draw current when turned off?  If so, you have a shorted final 
transistor.  

Craig Buck 

> On Jun 14, 2014, at 7:04 PM, "Robert 'RC' Conley"  wrote:
> 
> how can a K3 have a "Hi Cur" display while in the receive mode?
> The K3 "mutes" slightly when "Hi Cur" is displayed
> KC5WA
> 
> -- 
> 
> Wiol ono
> 
> Ham Radio!
> IT IS MY ADDICTION
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Sub RX audio to right Line Out SOLVED

2014-04-30 Thread Buck - k4ia via Elecraft

In the interest of future readers, here is what I found.

I had the LIN OUT menu item set to NOR 10 as recommended.  In fact, they 
warn of going over that level.  However, when you turn on the SUB RX, 
the signal is split and you lose 3db.  This can be heard in the 
headphones.  It seems it also affects the Line Out.


When I increased the LIN OUT level to 35, the Sub Rx could be heard in 
the right channel of the Line Out.  I have no idea how linear the LIN 
OUT level setting is but I suspect that increase to 35 is what was 
needed to overcome the attenuation that occurs when the Sub Rx switches in.


Now the issue is, the output seems unbalanced with the Main Rx signal on 
the left channel of the Line Out jack being louder than the Sub Rx 
signal on the right channel.   I am able to compensate for this by 
turning down the Main Rx gain control on the MicroHam MKII.  I wasn't 
able to even them out with the RF Gain control on the K3 but I will play 
around with that some more.



Buck
k4ia

On 4/29/2014 11:43 AM, Buck - k4ia via Elecraft wrote:
Joe - that is what I have set up.  If I turn on the Sub Rx and plug a 
set of headphones directly into the K3 Line Out jack in the back, I 
hear audio on the left channel only. So I don't think it is the MH 
cable pigtail.  The problem seems to be in the K3.


Sub Rx works fine in the headphone jack on the front.  This is the 
first time I have tried to listen to the Sub Rx through the rear Line 
Out jack.  I was hoping it was a menu setting I was missing. I will 
check L2.  I guess you are telling me it could be "open?" Why would 
that happen?


Buck
k4ia

On 4/29/2014 9:50 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:

Buck,

Where (how) are you connecting between the K3 and MK II?

You should use a the stereo audio cable supplied with MK II to connect
the 3.5mm "pigtail" on the LINE OUT plug of the DB3-EL-K23 or K3R
cable set to the "Sub RX" jack on the back of MK II.

Sub RX audio is present *only* when the "SUB" icon is displayed on
the K3 display (DUAL or DIVERSITY).  If the Sub RX is on and you
have audio in right headphone connected to the headphone jack but
no audio in the right channel (ring) of the LINE OUT (or tip of the
pigtail on the DB37-EL-K23/K3R) I would check L2 on the KIO3 Audio
I/O board.

Check for audio directly at the LINE OUT jack and at the "pigtail"
in case you've snagged the pigtail and broken a wire in either jack.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 4/29/2014 8:22 AM, K4ia via Elecraft wrote:

  I played with that setting to no avail.   I am going into a Microham
KeyerII which has a separate audio line for the Sub Rx.  If I plug
headphones into the Line Out jack on the back of the K3, I hear signals
on the left side but nothing on the right so I am convinced it is the
output from the K3 that is missing, not an issue with the computer 
or MKII.



Buck
k4ia
K3# 101  KX3 #715

On 4/29/2014 8:05 AM, Sam Morgan wrote:

hmmm, what is your Line Out set to?
mine is the recommended 010
also is the computer a desktop or laptop?

On 4/29/2014 6:47 AM, K4ia wrote:
Thanks Sam but that isn't it.  I get the Sub RX audio just fine in 
the

headphones.

What I am missing is the Sub Rx on the right channel of the Line Out
jack on the back of the radio.

Buck
k4ia
K3# 101  KX3 #715




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Sub RX audio to right Line Out

2014-04-29 Thread Buck - k4ia via Elecraft
Joe - that is what I have set up.  If I turn on the Sub Rx and plug a 
set of headphones directly into the K3 Line Out jack in the back, I hear 
audio on the left channel only. So I don't think it is the MH cable 
pigtail.  The problem seems to be in the K3.


Sub Rx works fine in the headphone jack on the front.  This is the first 
time I have tried to listen to the Sub Rx through the rear Line Out 
jack.  I was hoping it was a menu setting I was missing. I will check 
L2.  I guess you are telling me it could be "open?" Why would that happen?


Buck
k4ia

On 4/29/2014 9:50 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:

Buck,

Where (how) are you connecting between the K3 and MK II?

You should use a the stereo audio cable supplied with MK II to connect
the 3.5mm "pigtail" on the LINE OUT plug of the DB3-EL-K23 or K3R
cable set to the "Sub RX" jack on the back of MK II.

Sub RX audio is present *only* when the "SUB" icon is displayed on
the K3 display (DUAL or DIVERSITY).  If the Sub RX is on and you
have audio in right headphone connected to the headphone jack but
no audio in the right channel (ring) of the LINE OUT (or tip of the
pigtail on the DB37-EL-K23/K3R) I would check L2 on the KIO3 Audio
I/O board.

Check for audio directly at the LINE OUT jack and at the "pigtail"
in case you've snagged the pigtail and broken a wire in either jack.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 4/29/2014 8:22 AM, K4ia via Elecraft wrote:

  I played with that setting to no avail.   I am going into a Microham
KeyerII which has a separate audio line for the Sub Rx.  If I plug
headphones into the Line Out jack on the back of the K3, I hear signals
on the left side but nothing on the right so I am convinced it is the
output from the K3 that is missing, not an issue with the computer or 
MKII.



Buck
k4ia
K3# 101  KX3 #715

On 4/29/2014 8:05 AM, Sam Morgan wrote:

hmmm, what is your Line Out set to?
mine is the recommended 010
also is the computer a desktop or laptop?

On 4/29/2014 6:47 AM, K4ia wrote:

Thanks Sam but that isn't it.  I get the Sub RX audio just fine in the
headphones.

What I am missing is the Sub Rx on the right channel of the Line Out
jack on the back of the radio.

Buck
k4ia
K3# 101  KX3 #715




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Sub RX audio to right Line Out

2014-04-29 Thread K4ia via Elecraft
 I played with that setting to no avail.   I am going into a Microham 
KeyerII which has a separate audio line for the Sub Rx.  If I plug 
headphones into the Line Out jack on the back of the K3, I hear signals 
on the left side but nothing on the right so I am convinced it is the 
output from the K3 that is missing, not an issue with the computer or MKII.



Buck
k4ia
K3# 101  KX3 #715

On 4/29/2014 8:05 AM, Sam Morgan wrote:

hmmm, what is your Line Out set to?
mine is the recommended 010
also is the computer a desktop or laptop?

On 4/29/2014 6:47 AM, K4ia wrote:

Thanks Sam but that isn't it.  I get the Sub RX audio just fine in the
headphones.

What I am missing is the Sub Rx on the right channel of the Line Out
jack on the back of the radio.

Buck
k4ia
K3# 101  KX3 #715




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Sub RX audio to right Line Out

2014-04-29 Thread K4ia via Elecraft
Thanks Sam but that isn't it.  I get the Sub RX audio just fine in the 
headphones.


What I am missing is the Sub Rx on the right channel of the Line Out 
jack on the back of the radio.


Buck
k4ia
K3# 101  KX3 #715

On 4/28/2014 10:57 PM, Sam Morgan wrote:

also you might have the sub set to AUX Antenna with no antenna on it?

hold RX ANT button and watch to see the vfo b window say MAIN

On 4/28/2014 9:54 PM, Sam Morgan wrote:

maybe you have the 2m module and were using RF/SQL for squelch?


page 37 of manual tells all the tricks

SUB AF gain normally sets the sub’s volume
level. Alternatively, SUB AF can be used as a
main/sub balance control (see CONFIG:SUB
AF). With stereo headphones or dual speakers,
you'll normally hear main on the left and sub on the
right. CONFIG:L-MIX-R selects various alternate
combinations of main/sub audio mixing.

CONFIG:SPKRS must be set to 2 if you use
stereo speakers; otherwise, set it to 1.
SUB RF gain normally sets the sub receiver’s
RF GAIN level. If this knob is assigned to main/sub
squelch (CONFIG:SQ MAIN), then RF gain for
main/sub is controlled by the main RF gain control.

hope that helps

On 4/28/2014 9:32 PM, K4ia via Elecraft wrote:

I am trying to set up the K3 Sub Rx audio to come out on the right Line
Out.   I hear nothing on that side.  The Main Audio is fine on the left
side.

I can't find anything about a setting that would control this.  I
thought it would be automatic.

Can someone point me in the right direction please?







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[Elecraft] K3 - Sub RX audio to right Line Out

2014-04-28 Thread K4ia via Elecraft
I am trying to set up the K3 Sub Rx audio to come out on the right Line 
Out.   I hear nothing on that side.  The Main Audio is fine on the left 
side.


I can't find anything about a setting that would control this.  I 
thought it would be automatic.


Can someone point me in the right direction please?

--
Buck
k4ia
K3# 101  KX3 #715

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 in WPX SSB with 2.7 roofer

2014-03-31 Thread Buck - k4ia
I have found that if I shift the passband I can still understand SSB 
even though the DSP filter says it is only 1.1 khz wide. Try it and the 
signal will be very clear once you hit the sweet spot.  I think this is 
because the intelligence carrying portion of the voice is not 
necessarily in the center of the passband.



Buck
k4ia

On 3/31/2014 10:52 AM, George Danner wrote:

One of the things that Bell Labs found in adding loading coils to phone
lines (to reduce the high frequencies) was that in an audio system if you
reduce the high frequencies then you needed to also reduce the low
frequencies to keep the intelligibility constant. Since a phone system
needed intelligibility above fidelity; Bell Labs just decreased the coupling
capacitors to reduce the low end while using the line loading coils to
reduce the high frequencies.

I tend to use lo-cut to improve "listen ability" when I cut the high end.
I use a 1.8 kHz filter for a morning SSB net that has other nets 3 kHz away
usually on both sides. Some of the transmitters on the adjacent frequencies
can't fit in 5 kHz much less being 3 kHz away. The 1.8 kHz filter is the
best solution - the filter skirts along with the DSP skirts help the most I
can expect.

I would recommend adjusting Hi-Cut for the interference and Lo-Cut for the
best compromise on fidelity & intelligibility; if that switches in a tighter
filter, then that might be needed.

My 2 cents!
73
George  AI4VZ

-Original Message-
From: Al
For years I have heard folks state that 1.8 kHz is mandatory for SSB
contesting... but I have never understood how one could put up with this
narrow bandwidth for long. I need more information hitting my ears and am
perfectly happy with letting the famous 'ear-brain' filter extract the
maximum from that information.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3, KPA500 KAT500 Firmware Upgrades

2014-03-25 Thread Buck - k4ia
You only plug one USB cable into the computer and the device creates x 
number of virtual serial ports.


Here's another one that has 4 serial outlets
http://www.amazon.com/GearMo%C2%AE-36inch-Windows-Certified-Drivers/dp/B004ETDC8K/ref=sr_1_29?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1395768623&sr=1-29&keywords=usb+serial+adapter 



Buck
k4ia

On 3/25/2014 12:10 PM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote:

What exactly is the function of this device? Does it give you 8 separate serial 
ports? Or is it just a hub? Is it somehow different from plugging 8 
USB-to-serial cables into a computer?
Thanks!

Slava Baytalskiy
sla...@nullserv.com
W2RMS

On Mar 25, 2014, at 11:28 AM, Doug Person  wrote:


There is also a Siig brand usb to serial port unit available in 2, 4 or 8 
serial ports that is far less expensive and works very well.

SIIG *-Port USB to RS-232 Serial Adapter Hub 
<http://www.amazon.com/SIIG-8-Port-RS-232-Adapter-JU-SC0211-S1/dp/B005PAJV5A/ref=pd_cp_e_1>

73, Doug -- K0DXV

On 3/25/2014 8:47 AM, Dick Dievendorff wrote:

Edgeport 8-port USB to Serial adapter

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Re: [Elecraft] The case for a Panadapter - opinions, please?

2014-02-28 Thread Buck - k4ia
I am using the LPpan with my K3.  I feel lost without it.  It is amazing 
to be able to see the whole band then click on the signal for automatic 
QSY.  You can walk up and down the band easily picking off the S&Ps.  
You can also see in a second if the band is open and not waste time 
tuning around looking for the action. When working split you can see 
where everyone is calling and spot the hole where you can slip in and be 
heard.


Get one and you will be amazed.

Buck
k4ia

On 2/28/2014 1:08 PM, Jim Lowman wrote:
I'm basically a S&P operator, especially in contests.  I've found that 
calling CQ is something of a waste of valuable time.


When I see options like the Panadapter, or bandscopes from other 
manufacturers, I get the metaphor of fishing in a stocked pond.


So, for those of you who have this option, could you describe how it 
has assisted you?
In another message, someone mentioned that weak stations outside of 
the passband could be missed, which is a good point.


BTW, I'm not opposed to giving the good folks at Elecraft more of my 
$$$ if this is a good idea.


Thanks in advance and 73 de Jim - AD6CW
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/KPA500/KAT500 SWR problem UPDATE

2014-01-08 Thread Buck - k4ia
An OCF is an unbalanced antenna and it must have a choke to keep RF off 
the feed line into the shack.  I use about ten turns of coax on a 4 inch 
PVC pipe right outside the wall where the feed comes into the house.  It 
might be more or less, I am not at home to look. You can research it.  
Other choke baluns would help, if they present a high enough impedance.


That seems to have cured RFI problems for me but I have occasionally 
felt like I needed more isolation.  Many people have advised me to get 
rid of the OCF and go with something balanced but it suits my multi-band 
needs for now.


I am pretty sure RF on the feed line would cause the tuning circuits in 
the KAT to act crazy.  I'll leave that one for the Elecraft gurus to 
answer.


Buck
k4ia

On 1/8/2014 5:57 AM, Ray Coles wrote:

As the original poster under this heading I figured you might be interested
to know what I have achieved so far, even though I am not yet ready to send
the white smoke up the chimney.  Briefly, my problem was that my KAT500
would go into uncommanded tunes during a QSO, usually on digital modes.The
practical result was that I had to restrict TX power to less than 40Watts on
most bands to avoid a burst from the Chicago Piano in the KAT. I had assumed
an antenna/feeder problem and had changed every last connector, wire, balun
and insulator in my system before asking for help from the Reflector Brains
Trust. All of the other people who subsequently reported a similar problem
made me feel a little better, and I also received a lot of diagnoses and
practical advice which I have followed or will follow soon. One of the
simplest was from Ron WB4OOA: Carry out a K3 Gain Calibration via the K3
Utility (I had to download the latest Utility version to make this work
properly) then Install the KAT500 V1.42 Beta (Not quite as easy as it
sounds). After this things were better, and my power setting on the K3
always appeared on the KPA500 wattmeter. I could now operate at higher power
on some bands but had to stay below 40W on 40m. I had also adjusted the per
band retune trigger SWRs upwards via the KAT500 Utility which also helped a
little.

I remain convinced though, that the basic trigger problem lies with the
antenna system (an OCF multiband dipole) and I am continuing to work on this
aspect using my analyser. Why it should have suddenly kicked off after many
months of solid performance, and why changing everything hasn't yet cured it
remains a mystery. My next steps are to try a choke balun on the feeder
(parts now to hand) and to prune the antenna to get a better resonance on
the bands of interest. Now if only this darn rain would stop! (I still think
some tweaking of the KAT500 software might also help!)

  


Ray Coles, C.Eng. M0XDL

10 Littlemoor Road,

Weymouth DT3 6AA

Tel: +44 (0) 1305 833699

Mob: 07831 516517

  

  

  


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Re: [Elecraft] K3/KPA500/KAT500 SWR problem

2013-12-30 Thread K4ia
That points to a common connector as the problem  Check your common connector  
- something before the antennas.  

Craig Buck 

> On Dec 30, 2013, at 3:14 PM, Jim Bennett  wrote:
> 
> They are on all of MY various HF antennas: doublet, Inverted L's, and a 
> ground mounted vertical.
> 
>> On   Monday, Dec 30, 2013, at  Monday, 11:54 AM, Jim Miller wrote:
>> 
>> Do you have coomon mode chokes on you feed lines?
>> 
>> Jim ab3cv
>> 
>> On Dec 30, 2013, at 1:29 PM, Bill W2BLC  wrote:
>> 
>> In regards to proper grounding etc.: I think it is safe to say that K3 
>> owners have a very good grasp of what is needed to construct and operate a 
>> proper station - safety and RF wise.
>> 
>> I do, yet still went back over every last connector/connection/lug, etc. 
>> Everything is locked down properly here. No baluns, good coax, and 
>> everything is mechanical and soldered along the entire antenna routes. Yet, 
>> the problem continues. Perhaps the most disconcerting part is that my other 
>> auto tuners/rigs do not exhibit this difficulty. Perhaps the KAT500 is 
>> seeing something the others do not.
>> 
>> The difficult part is never knowing when the tuner will take off and the 
>> fact that MANUAL selection does not appear to make any difference. I have 
>> been using MANUAL for a couple of months. I do not see that it has made any 
>> difference in occurrences. The instances of "run-away" are random and it is 
>> usually days between events.
>> 
>> Bill W2BLC K-Line
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/KPA500/KAT500 SWR problem

2013-12-30 Thread Buck - k4ia
I had a similar issue.  Drove me crazy.  Then one day I put my hand on 
the PL259 on my antenna switch and noticed it was warm.  Swapped out the 
90 degree connector on the coax and problem solved.  The high power from 
the amp must have been causing a fault in the connector.


Lesson 1.  Check all your connections.
Lesson 2.  Stop buying cheap coax connectors

Buck
k4ia

On 12/30/2013 2:13 PM, Ray Coles wrote:

Forgot to mention that I hauled my MFJ wattmeter/dummy load out to the bush and 
pushed up 100 watts into it down the feeder with 1:1 SWR, which convinced me 
that at least my UR8 feeder is OK. Also didn't mention I hooked up my FG01 
antenna analyser up at the shack and all seemed normal, but of course the 
problem only comes over 40 watts (which equates to a pre balun 500V). THE 
PROBLEM REMAINS and I am still mystified!
73

Sent from my iPhone
Ray Coles CEng M0XDL
10 Littlemoor Road,
Weymouth DT3 6AA
United Kingdom
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 / KPA500 / KAT500 Tuning

2013-11-12 Thread Buck - k4ia
Is it possible that your antenna is tuned already?  If it weren't, and 
the SWR were too high, you would not get 500 watts out of the amp.  You 
would get a FAULT message and the whole thing would shut down.


Buck
k4ia

On 11/12/2013 2:40 PM, Jim Bennett wrote:

Folks, sorry if this has been discussed on the reflector before, but I've 
looked through the archives and drew a blank. I know I saw it but try as I may, 
can't find any related posts.

I just this week added a KPA500 and KAT500 to my K3 station. Documentation sez that 
the KAT500 tunes best when the K3 is set to 25 watts of tune power. OK, got that 
set. But, what ideally should happen is that if the amp is in OPER mode and I press 
& hold the TUNE button on the K3, the amp should temporarily go to STBY mode 
until the tuner has finished doing it's thing. It doesn't - the amp fires out 450 - 
500 watts - not cool.

Have I missed a setting somewhere that will make this happen, in case I forget 
to put the amp in standby mode, before I run a tune cycle?

Tnx, Jim / W6JHB
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Current Drain When Off

2013-10-16 Thread Buck - k4ia
Be careful.  The power is on to the finals even when the K3 is turned 
off. Therefore, if the finals short, they can overheat leading to all 
sorts of issues.  Trust me, I found out the hard way.  Mine was drawing 
2 amps with the K3 turned off.


I make it a habit now to turn off the power supply when I am not around.


Buck
k4ia

On 10/16/2013 3:59 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
K3 #642 measures just over 4mA when off.  FT-847 reads 12mA. However, 
with both those loads on the FP-1030A power supply, it appears to be 
consuming about 3wH [72 watt-days/26.28 kw-years], apparently just to 
light the little LED on the panel.  In fact, it's very close to 3wH 
with all the loads disconnected.  Our highest marginal PG&E rate is 
$0.34/kWh which works out to $8.94/yr max.


Maybe a "leak" outside the K3(s)?

It does raise the question, just how many electrons are being wasted 
in the TV, DirecTV receiver/DVR, microwave, and the myriad of 
phone/Kindle chargers plugged in all over the house, not to mention 
this computer which is on nearly all the time?  I suspect it's a lot 
more than 9 bucks a year.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org

On 10/16/2013 12:15 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

Nope. I measured both units several times, and just now repeated the
measurements.

73, Jim

On 10/16/2013 11:23 AM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:

Hi Jim - you must be misreading the meter by several decimal points :-)

We just measured several K3s in the lab and they both draw less than 5
mA when off.

Eric
elecraft.com



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Re: [Elecraft] W2 - Possible Addition to Station

2013-09-02 Thread Buck k4ia
I use both the W2 and the KAT500.  The W2 is closest to the antenna and 
tells me what the SWR really is.  The KAT500 tells me what the 
transmitter is seeing.  You really need both.


Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101  KX3 #715

On 9/2/2013 6:44 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Jim,

Under normal operation, the resolution between an SWR of 1.3 and 1.5 is
not of impo0rtance (pardon those who always strive for an SWR of 1.0).
At HF that amount of resolution is unimportant unless you are doing
measurements on your antenna system (that is different from normal
operating) - and in that case, you would likely be using the computer
connection to provide you with the greater resolution values.

I sense that several hams are offering their W2 wattmeters for sale
because they have purchased the KPA500 and/or the KAT500 and find that
the SWR display on those devices renders the use of the W2 redundant.

The W2 *is* an accurate wattmeter.  I cannot comment on the accuracy of
the MFJ unit.  In general, wattmeters are getting more accurate, but
some are still rated at 20% of the full scale readings - that is typical
for analog meter readouts.

So bottom line, do you want accuracy or do you want precision indication
of power and SWR.  If your concern is for SWR only, keep in mind that
almost all wattmeters are accurate when they read an SWR of 1.0.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/2/2013 6:17 PM, Jim Bennett wrote:

Currently my station includes a K3/100, P3, Ameritron AL-811
amplifier, and the LDG AT-600 ProII auto tuner with the M-600 analog
display. I have the 10-watt 2 meter module installed in the K3.
Further, I am in the process of building the 80-watt linear amplifier
for 2 meters that was presented by W6PQL in the May 2013 issue of QST.

The above equipment does not have the ability to display SWR or power
output on 2 meters with the amplifier online. So, I've been looking at
something to fill this gap. One option was the $80 MFJ-873 V/U meter.
A second, much more expensive option is the Elecraft W2.

I'm not a big fan of a string of LED's for measurement of anything, as
it simply does not give the resolution one would like to have. I dealt
with that when I had the Elecraft KPA500 last year. Nice to look at,
but not overly big on resolution. What I DO like about the W2 is the
software that is available from the web site - the W2 Interface
Program. In addition to bar graphs for SWR and Power Fwd/Ref, there is
a numeric display with a LOT more resolution than one normally would
see with any analog "meter". Since I nearly always have my MacBook Air
turned on when I operate, needing to have a computer for higher
resolution than LED's isn't an issue for me.




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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Key Paddle Option

2013-06-30 Thread Buck k4ia
I took an Altoids tin and cut a piece of foam to fit the paddles.  I 
remove the paddles and put them in the tin for transport.  Altoids tin 
weighs next to nothing and the paddles are safe.


Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101  KX3 #715

On 6/30/2013 1:49 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

Is the key paddle rugged enough that
carrying the KX3 in a backpack or other carrying bag would not break it or
damage or alter keying action.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 PA temp acting up

2013-04-28 Thread Buck k4ia
Thanks for the try Tom.  No it is not transmitting.  In fact, it is even 
weirder than that, the finals heat up while the radio is turned off.  It 
draws 2 amps when off.



Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101  KX3 #715

On 4/27/2013 7:43 PM, Tom H Childers wrote:

Howdy Buck,

The first thing that comes to mind is that a strait key has something
on top of it, but I sure you checked that.  Is it possible that there
is a short in a keying circuit or maybe a foot switch that has
something on it or is shorted out while the rig is set in the CW
mode?

I don't think having either situation could cause transmit unless the
rig is in CW or data mode.

Is the TX LED lit up?

Good luck finding it...

73,
Tom
Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
ARRL Lifetime Member
QCWA Lifetime Member

On Sat, 27 Apr 2013 19:11:17 -0400, Buck k4ia  wrote:


Left the receiver on overnight and when I came down this morning I could
hear the fan running.  That's odd.  PA TEMP 45

If I turn off the power, the finals still heat up and when I turn the
power back on the HI TEMP warning activates, power is reduced and the PA
TEMP reads 105.  Only way to cool it down is to unplug the power.

Any ideas?


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 PA temp acting up

2013-04-27 Thread Buck k4ia

Don - thanks

If I let it sit while turned on, the fan will bring the temp down, then 
I can turn the power back up and operate at 100w.  The fans keep the PA 
temp around 45C.  So I don't think the finals have gone - yet.


It is drawing about 2 amps with the power turned off but plugged in and 
a little under 4 amps in receive when turned on.


I was biased toward the bias but don't understand why it is drawing 2 
amps of current while turned off.


I have not installed the gold connector mod yet.  KPA3CONMDKT  Any 
chance the problem is there?


Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101  KX3 #715

On 4/27/2013 7:56 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Buck,
If indeed the finals are heating while the K3 is truly in receive mode,
then that would indicate either the PA finals have 'turned belly up' or
that there is a failure in the bias circuits that is turning the PA
transistors on.
First unplug everything from the K3 except for a dummy load.  Then plug
it in and see if it still draws PA current
If you have the same problem with everything unplugged, an email to
K3support is in order (or a phone call after they wake up and have their
morning beverage Monday morning.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/27/2013 7:11 PM, Buck k4ia wrote:

Left the receiver on overnight and when I came down this morning I
could hear the fan running.  That's odd.  PA TEMP 45

If I turn off the power, the finals still heat up and when I turn the
power back on the HI TEMP warning activates, power is reduced and the
PA TEMP reads 105.  Only way to cool it down is to unplug the power.

Any ideas?





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[Elecraft] K3 PA temp acting up

2013-04-27 Thread Buck k4ia
Left the receiver on overnight and when I came down this morning I could 
hear the fan running.  That's odd.  PA TEMP 45


If I turn off the power, the finals still heat up and when I turn the 
power back on the HI TEMP warning activates, power is reduced and the PA 
TEMP reads 105.  Only way to cool it down is to unplug the power.


Any ideas?


--
Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101  KX3 #715
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft USB interface.

2013-02-10 Thread K4ia
Check the date on the article. He says they made mods to the later models. 

Craig Buck

On Feb 10, 2013, at 12:06 PM, "Gil G."  wrote:

> This is what I found:
> 
> http://www.frenning.dk/OZ1PIF_HOMEPAGE/SignaLinkUSB-mods.html
> 
> http://www.frenning.dk/OZ1PIF_HOMEPAGE/images/Wireless%20Article%20-%20Signalink%20USB%20Mods%20v6.pdf
> 
> http://www.k7sfn.com/projects/signalink.html
> 
> Maybe not a big problem on HF, but I wonder..
> 
> I am not saying that the Signalink is bad. Apparently it is widely used and 
> appreciated. I just want to get the best possible product to use with my KX3, 
> being it a Signalink or something else. Suggestions are welcome.
> 
> Anyway, it would be cool if Elecraft made one..
> 
> Gil.
> --
> PGP Key: http://keskydee.com/gil.asc
> 
> On Feb 10, 2013, at 11:46 AM, W4GRJ wrote:
> 
>> Gil,
>> What kind of noise problem are you referring to? I use a SL USB with my K3 
>> with no issue.
>> Jack
>> W4GRJ
>> 
>> 
>> On Feb 10, 2013, at 11:43, "Gil G."  wrote:
>> 
>> Hello,
>> 
>> I was going to buy a Signalink USB for my KX3, but after reading about the 
>> noise problems I am not so sure. I wish Elecraft would build a USB 
>> interface… It would undoubtedly be a hot seller and I am sure perform 
>> flawlessly… Anyone in support…?
>> 
>> Gil.
>> --
>> PGP Key: http://keskydee.com/gil.asc
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 "fun" Programmable switch display possible?

2013-01-17 Thread Buck - k4ia
I have the same trouble with programmable switches.  I can't remember 
what is behind each one.


It would be nice if the display could be set up to say what the 
programmed button was going to do and then you would push again to 
confirm or push a different button to try something else.


Buck
k4ia

On 1/17/2013 10:39 AM, Brian Alsop wrote:

Now if we only had some decent labels to stick on those "10 switches"

Conventional computer labels seem to last a couple weeks before 
peeling off.  Tiny writing isn't my strength so they are cryptic and 
only marginally readable. M1-M4 require diagonal printing.


The other criterion is they have to come off at a desired time without 
residue.


73 de Brian/K3KO


On 1/17/2013 15:26, Wayne Burdick wrote:

The K3 has an average number of menu entries for a radio in its class.
But we've reduced the need to use the menu in two ways.

First, virtually every switch on the K3 has both tap and hold functions.
This doubles the number of functions available on the panel.

Second, the K3 has up to 10 switches that can be programmed to directly
execute menu functions or macros. Of these, up to four are taps and six
are holds. Macros are, in effect, fully customizable switches (allowing
the operator to define what "fun" means :)

Macros can be created using KX3 Utility and sent to the radio. A single
macro can do things like "turn on the sub RX, copy VFO A to B, move B up
2 kHz, enter split mode, and set BW to 200 Hz."

73,
Wayne
N6KR



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Re: [Elecraft] iSDR app and KX3 not working

2012-12-29 Thread Buck k4ia
You need more than the Griffin to get the iPad to control the radio. 
You also need a computer to radio interface such as the PigTail from 
Pignology.net which uses wireless networking to talk to the iPad.


I too had trouble with the Griffin but chalked it up to cheap cables I 
bought from China - they were terrible (shorted).  I have since gotten 
the Elecraft cables but not had a chance to try them.  What iSDR app are 
you using?


Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101  KX3 #715

On 12/29/2012 5:48 PM, GDR wrote:

I am in need of advice. I have the newer iPad 2 and am having no luck getting 
it to work with the KX3 using the iSDR app. I am using the Griffin external 
sound card and basically doing what the uTube video I Googled is doing but all 
I am seeing is noise, no stations and the iPad has no control of the KX3. Seems 
that the KX3 and the iPad are not talking to one another. My first question is, 
has anyone used the new generation iPad successfully with iSDR? Any tricks to 
get it to work? Thanks for reading.



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Re: [Elecraft] Vibroplex

2012-12-14 Thread Buck - k4ia
Nov (?) QST had a cheap suggestion.  There is a gadget that attaches to 
the sides of a carpenter's triangle to hold a setting when they are 
making lots of repetitive cuts.  A pair sell for about $3.50 at your 
local building supply store. They are brass colored and attach nicely to 
the arm, either in place of or in addition to the stock weight.  I found 
adding one of these to my original weight (no room for more) slowed the 
dits down nicely.


Another example of hamgenuity improvising a product for an unintended 
use.  But, I much prefer being able to reach over and turn the knob on 
my K3/KX3.


Buck
k4ia

On 12/14/2012 1:37 PM, Bill Hammond wrote:

Vibroplex makes several different weights for these bugs.  However, I always 
just used the large solder wrapped on top of the original weight. The new 
weights are on this page:
http://vibroplex.com/accessories.html
73,
Bill
AK5X



On Dec 14, 2012, at 12:27 PM, Joe K2UF wrote:


Steve,

I also have been playing with a couple of bugs.  I converted one to a
lefthanded bug.  Trying to be able to send with either hand.  I can send
reasonably clean CW with either hand  at about 10 to 15 WPM.  To slow down
the original bug I have used extra washers on the shaft and also wrapped
several turns of solder.  You might want to try the CW reflector for more
info.

Good luck

73  Joe K2UF


With enough THRUST pig fly just fine.



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Stephen Roberts
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2012 8:13 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] Vibroplex

I'm looking for a vary-speed attachment for my newly acquired 1943 Vibroplex
Original plus a couple of extra weights to experiment with.

Anyone?

Off list please.

73
Steve
W1SFR
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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2742 / Virus Database: 2617/5355 - Release Date: 10/26/12
Internal Virus Database is out of date.

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Bill Hammond
wham...@aol.com
Bill Hammond-AK5X
a...@mac.com
a...@sbcglobal.net
K3 #69
P3 #817
KPA500 # 149
K2/100 #4637
K1 #2033
KX1 #1023
KX3 #583
W2
T1

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Re: [Elecraft] KUSB Noise Query - K3

2012-12-13 Thread Buck - k4ia
I have found that I must be sure to screw in (not just plug in)  the 
serial connector on the back of the K3.  If I don't, I will hear a 
pulsed rushing noise from the USB.



Buck
k4ia

On 12/13/2012 12:53 PM, Matthew Zilmer wrote:

USB uses differential signaling.  Your problem may not be conductive noise, but 
instead it could be radiated directly from the adapter, where the ferrite won't 
help.

KeySpan makes a USB - serial adapter that is pretty much noise-free.  Its model 
 is HS19, I think.

Matt Zilmer
Consultant - Product Management Dept.
Magellan Navigation / MiTAC Digital Corp.
Tel: (909) 394-6052
Cell: (909) 730-6552
In status quo voluntas non sufficit


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of john petters
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2012 9:25 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KUSB Noise Query - K3

Hi Folks,
I posted a query about K3 Serial ports a few months back - we could not get the 
K3 to work properly with the RS232 connection. It turned out to be a fault with 
the sound card, which took out the serial connections.
When I first built the K3, I bought a cheap Prolific USB converter, which 
radiates awful noise over the spectrum. I decided to bite the bullet and buy 
the proper lead, which arrived today.

Using my Toshiba laptop, on battery power, I get a couple of s points of noise 
on 10M with the KUSB connected and HRD fired up. This is using my
2 element DJ4VM quad, which is fed with 300 ohm twin into the shack, i.e. near 
the laptop.

On LF, I can hear the pulsing information, in sympathy with the flashing LEDs 
on the KUSB on 160M at quite a high level. I can even detect this when fed into 
a Marconi dummy load. The K3 and the tuning units are bonder to an RF earth - a 
copper stake about 8 feet away from the K3.

I have tried choking the USB lead at the laptop end, which does reduce the 
noise to a degree.

The question I have is - am I being unrealistic in expecting zero noise to be 
radiated from these adaptors?
Does anyone else have this problem - or has anyone looked for it?

It is not very noticeable on CW or SSB. To hear it best, listen in the AM mode 
with the AGC off. On SSB it sounds like band noise.

Is this a problem JUST with USB adaptors or can I expect silence when 
connecting a computer via RS232 to RS232.

If not we are sacrificing a low noise floor for the convenience of computer 
control.

Any views appreciated,

73




--
John Petters
www.traditional-jazz.com
Amateur Radio Station G3YPZ
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Re: [Elecraft] Sub RX no work

2012-11-28 Thread K4ia
Check your filter locations and make sure they are "selected". As I recall you 
must instal the filters in slot 1 then 2 then 3. In other words, no skipping 
over slots.  

Craig Buck

On Nov 28, 2012, at 6:19 PM, "Mike Sanders"  wrote:

> Well, I think I have found it. I have not gotten
> the filters selected for the sub RX and the rig
> keeps going back to a FL1 position. I only
> have FL2 and FL4 populated with 2.8 and
> 400hz respectively. When I go into Bset I
> can get to those filters and the RX is FB
> but when I get out of Bset it goes back to
> one of the filter slots I do not have.
> Apparently I need to deselect FL1, 3 and
> 5 from the sub RX. Not sure How to do that?
> Thanks for the tips so far. Any help on the
> filter issue appreciated. 73 again.
> 
> 
> 
>Mike Sanders
>KØAZ
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net]On Behalf Of Cady, Fred
> Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2012 16:55 PM
> To: Elecraft Reflector
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Sub RX no work
> 
> 
> Hi Mike,
> Make sure the sub rx and the main rx are on the same antenna. Turn Sub on
> and then Hold RX until you see MAIN displayed, not AUX.
> 73 and cheers,
> Fred KE7X
> 
> Fred Cady
> fcady at ieee dot org
> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-
>> boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mike Sanders
>> Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2012 3:51 PM
>> To: Elecraft Reflector
>> Subject: [Elecraft] Sub RX no work
>> 
>> Greetings All, Well I have just installed a sub RX in a late
>> K3 (67xx). Before I go back into the radio and quadruple
>> check my work I just have to ask if I am missing something
>> in config.
>> I have audio and control of the sub RX and can even hear
>> signals through it but very very weak compared to the Main.
>> All seems OK but just very poor RX. I have selected the
>> ATU as source of antenna and have my connections there.
>> (I will go in later and see if I have any thing mis/dis connected).
>> Am I missing something in config? I have two filters installed
>> in the sub and NO BPF. No error messages and again it
>> seems to respond to everything input to it. Even receives
>> just poorly. Thanks for any help.  73, Mike
>> 
>> 
>>Mike Sanders
>> KØAZ
>> 
>> 
>> 
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> -
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 10.0.1427 / Virus Database: 2629/5424 - Release Date: 11/28/12
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] need help with hiss on ssb receive

2012-11-26 Thread Buck k4ia

Reduce your RF gain,  Use the attenuator on the lower bands.

The reason it is the same with the AGC on or off is because with AGC off 
the receiver is running full bore amplifying all the background noise. 
You must reduce your RF gain until the background noise (hiss) goes away 
so the signal you want to hear will be just above the silence.  Then, 
set the AGC controls to the defaults or follow some of the other 
suggestions on this list.


Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101  KX3 #715

On 11/23/2012 11:00 PM, Mike Rodgers wrote:

I've been putting up with this hiss on receive for two years. Others have complained 
as well. It sounds like a rushing wind. Kinda like old cassette tape hiss. It's the 
dirty little secret no one wants to talk about and the first thing that comes up on 
other forums when you mention k3. The most common being "tiring to listen to.

I think I've got it the best it can be but I'm looking for tips to make it 
better.
It keeps me from listening wide. Any hi cut above 2400 starts to irritate me so 
that limits me to a width of 2.1!

Others complain on LSB but to me it seems more noticeable on USB where I hang 
out.

It's a two year old k3 #5047 running latest firmware (not the beta).
It's not Agc related as its the same with agc off.

I feel I have a very aggressive negative eq as follows.

0.  0.  0.  -3.  -3.  -12.  -12/16.  -16

I love the rig except for this. I'm not planning to sell it but I would like to 
make it better if possible.
Right now I'm stuck at a width of 2.1 because of this. Am I doomed to just get 
used to it? I can filter it out with a kenwood speaker with filters but that's 
really just doing the same as reducing hi cut or bandwidth.

Any ideas welcomed.

Thanks and 73
Mike R



Play me some fiddle, but no stinkin' violin!

Amateur/Ham Radio KE5GBC
HF & Echolink mobile
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[Elecraft] For Sale MicroHam MicroKeyer with K3 cable

2012-11-20 Thread Buck k4ia
Original MicroHam Microkeyer with DB37-EL-K3 cable to hook to the K3.

This device interfaces the K3 with your computer providing complete 
isolation while automatically selecting the proper input for SSB and 
digital modes including FSK.  It also produces flawless CW from your 
computer logging program to the radio.  One USB cable controls it all 
including the serial interface to the K3.

This model does not have a built in sound card like the MicroKeyerII but 
uses the sound card in your computer.  Stereo cables to connect to the 
computer are included.

Details, manuals and software are on the MicroHam USA website.  Photos 
on request.  Excellent condition.

$250 including shipping in the US.

-- 
Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101  KX3 #715
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 in the ARRL auction

2012-10-19 Thread Buck k4ia
You just made the mistake of spotting the DX BEFORE you worked it.  Now 
the pileup begins in earnest.

Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101  KX3 #715

On 10/19/2012 8:53 AM, John Fritze wrote:
> So I got a notice today that the ARRL is offering a KPA500 in their on line
> auction...how do I get all you guys to not bid on it so I can win it?
> H?
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft newbie considering K3 vs KX3

2012-10-16 Thread Buck - k4ia
You are going to get a ton of answers but here's my take (and I own both).

It all depends on what you want to do.  I would compare it to the choice 
of a laptop computer vs a desktop or a 5-shot 38 revolver vs a 13-round 
45 semi-auto.  Either one will get the job done but they have different 
pros and cons.

If you want a light weight, low power consumption rig that is really 
easy to move around, the KX3 is better.  It is perfect for hikers, 
campers, backyard operators, battery power and all-around fun with much 
better performance than the typical "trail" rig.  Not so sure how that 
will change once you add the 100w amplifier.  I suspect it and the 
larger power supply will be more of a desktop profile at that point but 
without the additional performance of the K3.

If you want maximum flexibility, more power, more features you go for a 
desktop.  The K3 has become the standard by which all other contest 
quality rigs are measured.  Some of them are as big as suitcases.  The 
K3 is small by comparison but it is lunchbox-sized compared to the KX3 
which is more the size of a VHS tape.

Either one is an excellent choice but you wouldn't want to haul a 
desktop up a mountain and you wouldn't want to use a laptop to do high 
resolution gaming, video editing or multiple DVD burning.

So, ask yourself, what do you want to do?  Most will say you need both.

Buck
k4ia

On 10/16/2012 4:22 PM, KF9QL wrote:
> Hello all, Tom here. I am new to all-things Elecraft and have been looking
> at the K3 vs KX3 options. I spoke with David at Elecraft this morning, and
> he was most helpful. He also suggested that I post here to ask for opinions.
> I've also been searching the forum archive as well, and will continue those
> efforts. I apologize in advance for a lengthy first post, as this not my
> usual level of verbosity...
>
> I have been a HAM for 25 years now, but inactive for the past several
> years--and now getting back into things. I recently retired from practicing
> medicine due to a medical disability, and have earned a degree in Computer
> Science and started a small technology company out of a home office. My
> current project involves a biomedical device that can work as a remote
> monitor of a subject's status. Basically, I am trying to meet two needs here
> I suppose: Re-kindle my HAM radio hobby, and learn more about digital data
> transmission with an eye towards using HAM radio to help in that effort. As
> my level of knowledge about electronics is growing daily, I have been
> considering a build of either a K3 or a KX3. The radio would be used in my
> home shack, but I would also like to make it somewhat mobile in an RV...or
> even a normal auto. Obviously the KX3 is supremely qualified for this
> purpose, but I think the K3 probably is as well. And of course the K3 has
> much a greater potential for future expansion and capability. But to get
> started, it appears that it is very hard to beat the features and price
> point of the KX3.
>
> So I guess what I am looking for is a bit of advice from experienced
> owners/users on which might be the better choice for me? I understand that
> the 100w amplifier intended for the KX3 is not yet in production--but of
> course that will change. My intention will also be to add in a 2m module at
> some point, and I understand that the KX3 module for 2m is not yet available
> either. However again, these things will change--and one can always find a
> small amplifier to use with the KX3 in the meantime. The price for a K3
> build would be $500-1000 more than that for a KX3, but if this is my primary
> radio...is that money well-spent at this point? Also, in terms of possible
> research activities using digital data transmission, would the K3 be clearly
> superior to the KX3? David told me about the accessory in/out ports on the
> K3, which would indeed be convenient. However the size of the KX3 is very
> attractive for possible field-work, so it has that going for it--and having
> to use the main mic port is not the end of the world. But still, the K3
> really isn't unwieldy by any stretch, so the size differential between the
> two might not even be an issue at all.
>
> Anyway, I would appreciate whatever advice folks are willing to offer. I
> anticipate making a purchase sometime in the next 1-2 weeks, and have been
> reading everything I can find, and watching every YouTube video I can come
> across on either of these two units.
>
> Thanks in advance for the help!
>
> KF9QL
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Elecraft-newbie-considering-K3-vs-KX3-tp7564208.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Filter suggestions for new builder

2012-09-25 Thread Buck - k4ia
You have chosen the bread-and-butter choices.  You may find they are all 
you need. You can add others later, if needed.

Could you go with less?  Personally, I only use the sub-receiver for 
chasing split DX.  I don't need razor sharp filtering - in fact, I need 
to hear a broad spectrum so I can figure out where the DX is listening.  
Therefore, I elected no special filters in the sub.  If you use the sub 
for diversity reception, you probably need to filter it up.

Buck
k4ia

On 9/25/2012 1:20 PM, Stan AE7UT wrote:
> I'm asking for a little help with filter choices.  I've read all I can on the
> subject
> and have come up with what I think is a good choice for me.
> I'm going to be getting the sub-receiver so I'm going to be getting 2 of
> each filter.
> At almost $300 a filter set I would hate to make a choice that I later have
> to replace.
>
> I'm new to CW and spend about an hour a night working CW on 80/40/30/20.
> I like to chase DX both CW and SSB.
> I do some contesting but I usually only have an hour or two in each contest
> to operate.
> I'm just too busy with family and work to put more into it.  I would like to
> do more.
> I've never worked FM or AM/ESSB because I've never had the capability.
> I'm coming from an Orion II and really liked the diversity reception and
> want that back.
>
> I'm pretty sure about getting the:
> 2.8 Khz, 8 pole
> 1.8 Khz, 8 pole
> 400 Hz, 8 pole
>
> Wondering if I should put in the:
> 1.0 Khz, 8 pole
> 13 Khz FM
>
> Thanks for any thoughts on the choices.
> 73
> Stan AE7UT
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 + NaP3

2012-09-11 Thread Buck k4ia
I think NAP3 stands for "Not A P3"

Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101  KX3 #715

On 9/11/2012 10:46 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> It's a great example of why acronyms are absurd if you want to communicate
> anything to others outside of an exclusive small group.
>
> It's been a problem as long as I've been writing technical literature, which
> goes back to the 1960's!
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
> -Original Message-
> NaP3 is a panadapter display program.  I know just a little tiny bit about
> it, such as how to spell it but not much more.
>
>
> On Sep 11, 2012, at 6:48 PM, gdaug...@stanford.edu wrote:
>
>>> NaP3 seems to work well but the display shows vertical lines every
>>> 1-2 KHz.
>>
>> I've seen NaP3 references many times, but I'm completely in the dark
>> about what it means.  Could somebody clue me in, please?
>>
>> Sodium Phosphide would be Na3P (If it exists)...
>>
>> 73,
>>
>> George T Daughters, K6GT
>> CU in the California QSO Party (CQP)
>> October 6-7, 2012
>
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Re: [Elecraft] The next new radio from Japan?

2012-08-26 Thread Buck k4ia
I like the clever design of the control head but -
Upconversion
Over 6 pounds
1.2 Amp on standby
No internal antenna tuner mentioned
Mandatory D-$tar

Seems like a combination of the worst of the old and new in what is 
likely to be a very expensive package.


Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101  KX3 #715

On 8/26/2012 11:17 AM, Gary wrote:
> I saw this press release and thought I share it. It seems Icom (Japan) has
> introduced their new all band/all mode amateur transceiver. It will likely
> be some time before we see some version of it in the USA. More info can be
> seen at: http://www.icomuk.co.uk/News_Article/3508/17675/
>
> Gary
>
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Re: [Elecraft] 2.5mm 3conductor RX I/Q to 3.5mm 3conductor soundcard line input cable

2012-08-21 Thread Buck k4ia
I believe they have one - whether your store does or not is another 
issue.  I haven't found it locally.

Elecraft recommends a pigtail cable to reduce strain on the board. 
There are some for sale on the internet (from China) but buy at least 
two because they are not the best quality.

Maybe someone else can cite a dependable source.

Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101  KX3 #715

On 8/20/2012 8:44 AM, Jeff Herr wrote:
> This is a radio shack item?
>
>
>
> WW6L
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 - Pandapter woes

2012-08-19 Thread Buck k4ia
Yes, indeed.  One of the Chinese pig-tail adapters was shorting the two 
signals.

I changed adapters and gave the program some time to run and cancel out 
images and it works much better now.  I still have some recurring spurs 
that run up and down the band chasing the center frequency so there's 
work remaining to be done.

Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101  KX3 #715

On 8/18/2012 6:39 AM, Stephen Prior wrote:
> Both of the 3.5 to 2.5mm pigtail adapters I bought from Amazon were not
> wired correctly, with no connection at all to the ring (if I remember
> correctly).  Cheap doesn't always pay in my Experience!
>
> 73 Stephen G4SJP
>
>
> On Saturday, 18 August 2012, Ignacy wrote:
>
>> I got the same results initially with a laptop using HDSDR. Turned out it
>> had
>> a mono input. A bit better picture with a default sound card on desktop.
>> Then ran sound card calibration in HDSDR to decrease image and the center
>> has disappeared.
>>
>> Now HDSDR works very well; adding frequency display by OmniRig is simple.
>> The effective range is 45KHz. Not sure this is limit of my sound card or IQ
>> in KX3.
>>
>> No complains as free I/Q in KX3 is icing on the cake.
>>
>> Ignacy
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> View this message in context:
>> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX3-Pandapter-woes-tp7561244p7561249.html
>> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] KX3 - Pandapter woes

2012-08-17 Thread Buck k4ia
I am having a devil of a time with my KX3 and NaP3 running through an 
EM0202 outboard soundcard.  It works great with my K3 to an LpPan 
pandapter.

With the KX3, I get a big blip in the middle and mirror images on either 
side that move along with the tuning.  I have tried reversing the I/Q. 
This is telling me there is something wrong with the cables but I have 
switched them out, including the 2.5>3.5 adapter to no avail.  Now, I am 
suspecting the I/Q jack on the KX3 but that seem unlikely.

Anyone have an idea for me to try?

-- 
Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101  KX3 #715
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and HDSDR

2012-08-11 Thread K4ia
Try reversing the cables. 

Craig Buck

On Aug 11, 2012, at 11:13 AM, Ignacy  wrote:

> I connected KX3 to a laptop and ran HDSDR. It appears that sideband are not
> distinguished as during tuning some signals move left and some move right.
> Also no movement on phase pictures. 
> 
> I checked that the cable is stereo. No Omni-Rig yet.
> 
> Any idea?
> 
> Ignacy, NO9E
> 
> 
> 
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX3-and-HDSDR-tp7560855.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] Sherwood ranking

2012-08-10 Thread Buck k4ia
Very well done indeed.  But, I am confused.  How is the ranking decided? 
  Is it subjective or is there a formula?
-- 
Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101  KX3 #715
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Filter question Again?

2012-08-08 Thread K4ia
My thought on the 5 pole was that it would give you some protection but because 
the skirts were not as steep you could hear someone calling you off frequency 
better. They would be down but not out.  The 5's have slightly less insertion 
loss and are cheaper. On the other hand they need an offset adjustment and 
therefore don't lend themselves to diversity reception as well.

I think the answer is: it depends on your style of operating and what you want 
to spend. The reason there is more than one choice is that one size does not 
fit all. Or, as my Nana used to say, "that's why they don't make it all 
vanilla."

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 8, 2012, at 10:04 PM, Matt Zilmer  wrote:

> Those 8-pole filters have steeper skirts.  Either the 5- or 8-pole
> work quite well.
> 
> I use 5-pole for the narrower filters (250, 500), and the 8-pole for
> 1.8, 2.8, 13 KHz bandwidths.
> 
> 73,
> matt W6NIA
> K3 #24
> 
> On Wed, 08 Aug 2012 19:12:58 -0600, you wrote:
> 
>> Why an 8 pole filter
>> 
>> OR
>> 
>> Why a 5 pole filter?
>> 
>> Yeah I know the 5 poles are cheaper... but other than that.
>> 
>> Phil
>> Santa Fe
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3: Missing instructions for screws?

2012-08-07 Thread Buck - k4ia
Those holes are for the KXPD3 paddles - you can ignore them.  Elecraft 
always gives you some extra hardware - just in case.

Buck
k4ia

On 8/7/2012 11:36 AM, Kevin Luxford wrote:
> When I finished the build of the KX3, there were a couple of small flat
> head black screws left over.  I found a couple of spots where they
> fitted, but for the life of me I could not find reference to them in the
> assembly instructions.  These screws seem to go on either side of a male
> connector visible in the window of a square cut-out on the top cover.
> Further, I could find no reference to this 4 pin connector.  Has it
> something to do with the yet un-released 2 m option and linear amplifier?
>
> I have gone through both the assembly and operator's manuals at least
> three times, however, this is no guarantee that I have not overlooked
> the explanation I am looking for.
>
> 73
> Kevin
> VK3DAP / ZL2DAP
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[Elecraft] KX3 I/Q output for pandapter

2012-08-01 Thread Buck k4ia
I am fooling around with an EM0202 external soundcard and NaP3 which 
works just fine with an LpPan pandapter providing the I/Q from my K3 but 
I am not having much luck with the KX3,  I have turned on the RX I/Q in 
the menu and run the I/Q output from the KX3 to the soundcard.  I had to 
crank the gain way up but the signals are not there - just images, a 
blip in the center frequency and mirrored spurs on either side.  .

Before I go crazy trying to get this to work, is it fully implemented at 
this time and should it work?  If it is, I will go about trouble 
shooting my cables and connectors.

-- 
Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101  KX3 #715

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[Elecraft] KX3 Macros for Split Operation

2012-07-25 Thread Buck k4ia
I have written a couple of Macros for the KX3 but need some help

This one will put the rig into Split, Xmt on VFOB, VFOB up 2, RIT=0, 
XIT=0, Turn on Dual Watch, Clear the Menu off the screen

SWT25;SWT25;FT1;UPB5;RT0;XT0;MN140;MP016;SWH09;

This one will restore to regular operation (undoing above)

SWT25;SWT25;FT0;UPB0;MN140;MP000;SWH09;

Question #1: How do I make the OFS/B knob set to activate the B 
function?  If it is on OFS, it will control VFO A and I want it to 
control VFO B so I can tune to hear the other side of the pileup. 
Nothing I do seems to alter whatever it was set to when I started.

Question #2:   I can't find a CONFIG:MACRO x menu item on the KX3 to 
assign my masterpieces to a button.  How do I do that?  It looks like I 
can assign a simple menu item to PF1/2 (page 19 of Operator Manual) but 
I can't find anything about Macros.

Question #3:  Other than PF1 and PF2, how do I assign macros to other 
keys?  The K3 had the M1 - M4 keys but they are not on the KX3.

-- 
Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101  KX3 #715
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[Elecraft] KX3 Thumbscrews

2012-07-19 Thread Buck k4ia
I notice the thumbscrews on the paddles have a screwdriver slot but the 
ones on the case do not.  The ones on the case have a tendency to bind 
and can be very hard to release with just finger pressure.  I hate to 
apply pliers and mar the surface.  May I suggest future kits include 
case thumbscrews with a screwdriver slot?
-- 
Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101  KX3 #715

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Re: [Elecraft] Lighter spring pressure for the KXPD3

2012-07-18 Thread Buck - k4ia
Good ideas.  I hadn't tried to take the paddles apart yet.

Maybe I'll send it off to Pierro Begali and see what he would design.  
Probably end up with paddles that cost as much as the rig - but they 
would be beautiful!

Buck
k4ia

On 7/16/2012 7:18 PM, Art Nienhouse wrote:
> Hi Buck
>
> Lighter spring pressure how I did it.
>
> I found a longer spring  I cut off the ends where the coil bind winding
> are, cut it just short of installed length same as the (original) spring
> length.
> Next I closed one end a bit to fit tight on the threads of the screw
> then Installed the spring by screwing in on the threads holding it in
> place. Install it on the other paddle arm screw before putting the arms
> in place, squeezing the paddle arms together dropping the arms on the pins.
>
> I reassembled the paddle tried it for feel on the second try the spring
> feels right with a lighter closure pressure. I cut the spring a bit
> short in length then pulled the spring apart to stretch it to the proper
> length same as the one that came with the key.
> I think these keys could be supplied with several springs so the closure
> pressure could be set to a preference by the operator.
> Shims could be supplied to add pressure to an existing spring. This
> changed the feel making the key usable for me.
>
> Thinking of how I could make the spring tension adjustable I would do this.
>
> Find the right length allen screw ( no head ) the length to be
> determined for final build.
>
> Next I would find a spring with a bigger diameter with less turns per
> length, the end to fit a shoulder washer.
>
> Turn a washer or find a washer shaped with a shoulder so the inside
> could be threaded to fit the allen and the out side  diameter would hold
> the spring the shoulder of the washer would be inside the spring.
>
> Install this on the allen with washer and spring about half way along
> the length to be timed out when installed the allen would be flush with
> the out side of the paddle arm, when the final dimensions are set
> Loctite thread locker would hold this washer in place so it could not move.
>
> Last install it from the inside out now this lighter spring with less
> turns bigger diameter would be more sensitive to closing (adding)
> pressure against the two paddle arms now turning the allen screw from
> the outside will adjust the arm closing pressure.
>
> Several springs /shim washers might be the way to go.
>
> Regards
> Art
> ka9zap
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[Elecraft] Kx3 Paddles spring adjustment?

2012-07-15 Thread Buck k4ia
Is there an adjustment for the spring tension?  I am spoiled by my 
Begali and these feel like I am lifting weights.
-- 
Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101  KX3 #715

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[Elecraft] KX3 - Little issue closing the case.

2012-07-13 Thread Buck k4ia
I am having trouble getting the case to close properly.  It feels like 
the speaker plug is hitting the RF board and causing that side to not go 
all the way down.  I checked my speaker placement and it is right.  I 
discovered the speaker plug needs an extra push to seat all the way down 
- but that wasn't enough.

Anyone have an idea before I whittle down the speaker plug?
-- 
Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101
KX3 #715

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[Elecraft] KX3 Got a good feeling about this

2012-07-12 Thread Buck k4ia
My KX3 (ordered Dec 29) was delivered today.  Hot Doggity!

I started the build and it is remarkable  As always with Elecraft, the 
unpacking is to behold a work of art.  How do they put together such a 
beautiful package?

The hardest part for me is discriminating (is that a bad word?) between 
a 1/4 inch and a 3/16 inch screw or a 2-56 vs a 4-40 thread.   If you 
work with this stuff every day (I don't) it might be easy.  But, it is a 
puzzle with easy answers.  Don't be intimidated by my comment. If the 
instructions say there are 7 of something, you can figure out which of 
the doohikies in front of you have 7 - and that must be it.

Thanks Wayne and Eric.  You have redefined the modern amateur 
transceiver from the technical side in a revolutionary way. You went 
against the conventional wisdom of quadruple up-conversion and produced 
receivers of remarkable sophistication.  Then you did the impossible and 
kitted it out.  Amazing.

-- 
Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101

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[Elecraft] K3 - 5 pole 500Hz filter for Sale

2012-07-05 Thread Buck - k4ia
No longer needed so now it needs a new home.

New $89.95 plus shipping.  I'll sell for $75 including shipping to US.

PayPal preferred.

-- 
Buck
k4ia

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Re: [Elecraft] k3 and field day

2012-05-11 Thread Buck - k4ia
I've taken mine out on Field Day for the past 3 years. Not a problem.

If you're really worried, use the K3 utility to back up your settings 
and you can restore pretty easily.

If that doesn't work, post the following:

ACHTUNG!
Alles touristen und non-technischen look unds peepers!

Das machin kontrol is nicht fur dial gespinnen, finger gepoken und 
mitten grabben.
Uderwise ist easy schnappen der springenverk, blowen fuzen, und poppen 
corken mit spitzen sparken.

Der radio machine ist fur experten operator.
Ist nicht fur geverken by dumpkopfen.

Rubber necken zighten seers keepen sur cotton picken hands in sur pockets.

Pencil necken geeken farbs - relaxen, und vatchen das blinken lights.

Buck
k4ia


On 5/11/2012 3:11 PM, dm...@nexicom.net wrote:
> I agree that this is risky but Id like to point out thatit will be
> used by a core group.   who are pretty dedicated and they are all used
> to some pretty nice rigs just none a K3It will not be the GOTA
> station we have a ts430 for that.  I am just wanting to avoid to much
> confusion.  If we all had a few old rigs kicking arround we would use
> them.   having the config files to correct  someones  boo boo is a
> great idea.  I guess I would have thought of that eventually.
>
>
> David Moes
> VE3DVY
>
>
> On Friday 11/05/2012 at 1:04 pm, Anthony Scandurra K4QE  wrote:
>> David,
>>
>> This applies to ANY competition class radio, not just the K3.
>>
>> I strongly recommend AGAINST bringing out your radio out unless you
>> know for
>> a fact that those who will be using it know how to use it already.
>>
>> If it is a free-for-all, you should only take out a radio that is
>> dead-simple to operate like an ICOM IC-718, a Yaesu FT-840,  or a
>> Yaesu
>> FT-747.
>>
>> Otherwise, you will be constantly be asked questions and/or really
>> frustrating operators.  Even worse, they might get the radio into some
>> state
>> rendering it unusable (yes, it DOES happen) and without a quick
>> resolution
>> because you won't know exactly what they changed.
>>
>> Sorry, but it is really not worth your trouble unless you know the
>> operators
>> are K3-aware.
>>
>> 73, Tony
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: dm...@nexicom.net
>> Sent: Friday, May 11, 2012 12:29 PM
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: [Elecraft] k3 and field day
>>
>> I will have my k3 at Field Day this year and would like a little
>> advice.I will have the Yamaha cm500,  a hand held mic plus a set
>> of paddles.   It will have one multiband antenna.   plus a will
>> periodically be connected  to a beam when its available.
>>
>> Since it will also be used by several other ops that probably wont
>> know the K3 I would like to set it up as user friendly as possible and
>> lock out as much as possible in the menus to prevent it from being
>> messed up.
>>
>> What  settings have others used in this situation.   and what
>> precautions are there?   and any other thoughts please.
>>
>>
>>
>> Please answer to the reflector  and not directly to me.
>> David Moes
>>
>> VE3DVY
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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[Elecraft] Connect your radio and computer wirelessly

2012-04-30 Thread Buck - k4ia
This popped up on the KX3 reflector but I thought it should be here 
too.  Pardon if someone beat me to it.

Here's a neat new device that connects your computer and radio over an 
ad hoc wireless network. It is really designed for the iPad and the 
maker's program HamLog but I see it having application here.  
Communication with the computer is wireless and communication with the 
rig is over its serial port.  No USB or serial port from your computer 
is required.

1.  Take your iPad to the field and log your contacts with HamLog, then 
import them into your home logging program (yes the program supports 
ADIF file transfers).  HamLog supports Elecraft radios, including the KX3.

2.  Maybe you've had bad luck with ProLific and FTDI drivers trying to 
run USB>Serial converters.  You could have your radio and computer talk 
wireless while you access the internet over a network cable.

Go to pignology.net

I have no connection with the company - just interested in the 
possibilities and marveling at the creativity.

-- 
Buck
k4ia

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Re: [Elecraft] AD-1-K doesn't have blocking capacitor, Heil claims

2012-02-24 Thread Buck - k4ia
Yes but. . .

The Mic pinout used by Elecraft is the Kenwood pinout.  So, you would 
use a Kenwood adapter with a Heil product.  Hence the issue with the 
blocking cap - unless Heil has now made available a mic adapter cable 
specifically for the Elecraft line.

Buck
k4ia


On 2/24/2012 2:53 PM, Dick Dievendorff wrote:
> Bob Heil just told me that only the ICOM Heil adapters have blocking
> capacitors.
>
>>> Of course NONE of the Kenwood or Yaesu have any blocking caps as none of
> their inputs have phantom voltage (thank goodness)
>
> Dick, K6KR
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
> Sent: Friday, February 24, 2012 11:32 AM
> To: Tom
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Heil Proset Headphones
>
> Tom,
>
> Since you have the Icom adapter now, I must ask - Is that a Proset-Ic?
> You can find the "Ic" designation in the end of the microphone tube that
> attaches to the earphone.
> If it is an "Ic" type, it has an electret microphone element which requires
> bias.
> I believe the Kenwood adapter has a blocking capacitor that will prevent the
> bias voltage from reaching the mic element.
> If you are using this with a K3, just plug it into the rear panel jack, no
> need for an adapter.  If you are using it with the K2, rewire the Microphone
> Configuration Header to match your Icom adapter.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 2/24/2012 1:58 PM, Tom wrote:
>> I have the headset with the adapter for my Icom 756Pro.  Which Heil
>> adapter do I need to use the headset with the K3? AD-1-K?
>>
>> Tom
>> KQ5S
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Re: [Elecraft] DXCC map

2012-02-21 Thread Buck - k4ia
http://hamradiomap.qth.com/

You'll have to add the Elecraft logo yourself

Buck
k4ia


On 2/21/2012 3:18 AM, István Szabó wrote:
> Let's have it a price! I would buy one.
>
> István Szabó
>
>
>
> On 2/21/2012 4:46 AM, Gary K9GS wrote:
>> An excellent idea!
>>
>> I can picture a problem though.  It's already nearly impossible to get
>> near the front of the Elecraft booth at Dayton.  If they were handing
>> out free maps you couldn't even get in the building.
>>
>> Maybe Elecraft could rent a portion of the flea market parking lot and
>> set up a beer garden?  They could hand out maps there.  I volunteer for
>> bar tending duties.  They could also set up an operating area to demo
>> radios.
>>
>> Just thinking out loud...
>>
>> On 2/20/2012 4:27 PM, István Szabó wrote:
>>> My map is so obsolete, that there is USSR, East Germany and so on on it.
>>> It would be great to have an Elecraft map as the next one. Any source or
>>> plan?
>>>
>>> 73'
>>>
>>> István Szabó
>>>
>>> HA4ZD
>>>
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Re: [Elecraft] Older K3/100s and the "ERR12V" problem

2012-02-14 Thread Buck - k4ia
Don't tease us like that. ;-)  What is the "bypass surgery" method?  I 
don't remember seeing it.

Buck
k4ia


On 2/14/2012 2:41 PM, Ralph Parker wrote:
> I had this problem after #1823 came back from PJ6A. Luckily, it didn't
> happen while we were there, although another K3 did show this error. Tnx
> goodness we had a spare (mine).
>
> I bought a set of gold pins (they were not offered for free), but elected
> to use the 'bypass surgery' method, suggested as an alternative, as I was
> afraid of damaging the PC boards during the removal/replacement of the pins.
>
> The bypass was easy to do, and I have not had the 'problem' since.
> A few of my K3 friends have had the problem too, and I have, since my
> episode,  recommended the bypass solution. Cheap, easy, works.
>
> Ralph, VE7XF
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Hum on transmit

2012-01-23 Thread Buck - k4ia
I have found, on occasion, I get a raspy pulsing noise on the audio.  I 
believe it is coming from a USB connection through an audio switching 
device.  I must make sure the RS232 plug on the back of the K3 is 
securely screwed on (not just pushed on) and wiggling the audio plugs in 
the row below the RS232 and the ACC jacks will make it go away.  I 
haven't figured out exactly which one it is yet.

The K3 is star-point grounded with the computer case but not the audio 
switching device.  I have done the pin1 mic mod.

The plugs are one more thing to check as you look for the source of your 
"hum."

Buck
k4ia


On 1/23/2012 11:28 AM, Phil Hystad wrote:
> Cary,
>
> I battled a hum/buzz problem just two weeks ago.  After almost a full day 
> spent hunting, experimenting, searching, and doing everything under the sun 
> plus some very helpful dialog from others here on Elecraft forum, the 
> hum/buzz was finally fixed.
>
> I did not fix it, it just disappeared.  So, here are some things I did...
>
> (1)  I did all my tests with the monitor on and TX in TEST mode since that in 
> itself showed the hum/buzz.
>
> (2)  With the help of Jim Brown (K9YC) I used the TX EQualization feature of 
> the K3 to crimp down to minimum
>the low frequencies of the hum/buzz.  Doing this, it appeared that 
> this was indeed a buzz and not a 60-cycle
>hum because the buzz did not start to be attenuated until after the 
> 400 Hz TXEQ was set to zero and I started
>working on the next higher frequency band.
>
> (3)  I was confused as to whether this was front mic and back end mic inputs 
> or just front.  I finally determined that
>this was on the front mic only with 98 percent confidence.  It is not 
> 100 percent confidence because all of my
>experiments to prove one way or the other were a bit scrambled but I 
> think this was front panel mic only.
>
> (4)  I then focused on the mic itself, an Elecraft MH2 hand mic.  
> Unfortunately it was the only mic I had for the front
>panel but if you have more then one then I definitely suggest you test 
> them all to see if the hum/buzz is
>independent of mic.
>
> (5)  I jiggled and bumped this front panel mic and connector to see if there 
> was some loose connection.  Someone
>suggested florescent lighting as a noise generated and I tested with 
> all lights turned off (see next point).
>
> (6)  I also had a nice 13.8 Li-nanoPhosphate battery so I disconnected 
> EVERYTHING from the K3.  The only two
>things connected were the 13.8 volt battery on the power and the mic 
> on the front panel.  No Antenna, no
>ground, no other connector to the K3.  Hum/Buzz was still there and in 
> that test I also turned off the circuit
>breaker for all AC in my shack.  Did not help.
>
> (7)  After some tests, and other things, the hum just seemed to disappear and 
> never came back since.  My best
>guess is that it was one of the following: (1)  either an external 
> noise source that eventually turned off and
>my front panel mic was just more susceptible to picking it up; or, (2) 
> the front panel mic itself had some kind
>of loose connection that just seemed to finally correct itself.  I 
> favor cause (1) though.  I am kind of hoping it
>comes back so I can test some more.
>
> 73, phil, K7PEH
>
>
> On Jan 23, 2012, at 7:37 AM, Hunsdon Cary III wrote:
>
>> Don:
>>  You know it's hard to tell the difference between a buzz and a 60 hertz 
>> hum, at least to my 66 year old ears.  HOWEVER, when I disconnected the mic 
>> front the front panel connector and used the XMIT button on the front panel, 
>> there is no buzz or hum!  I'll start troubleshooting the mic cable now!
>>  Tnx for your help.
>>  73,
>>  Cary, K4TM
>>
>> On Jan 23, 2012, at 10:23 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>>
>>> Cary,
>>>
>>> Is it hum or is it actually "buzz"?  Hum is 60 Hz AC, but buzz will be of 
>>> various frequencies, and it is difficult to tell them apart with just your 
>>> ears as detectors.
>>>
>>> Does it disappear if the microphone is not connected?  Use XMIT to put the 
>>> K3 in transmit while you are listening.  If it is only when the microphone 
>>> is connected, you may have a broken wire in the mic cable.
>>>
>>> 73,
>>> Don W3FPR
>>>
>>> On 1/23/2012 10:10 AM, Hunsdon Cary III wrote:
>>>> K3 Experts:  My K3-100 has been flawless in its performance until 
>>>> yesterday.  I had a schedule with W5ZNN who told me I had a hum on my 
>>>> signal; 

[Elecraft] K3 and LP 100A calibration

2012-01-15 Thread Buck k4ia
Following up on an exchange I had some time ago with Larry, I couldn't 
figure out why his LP100A watt meter was reading low - even after he had 
calibrated it in his shop.  With some help from Don W3FPR, I got it 
figured out and offer this for future reference to others who may 
experience the same confusion.

There is a procedure on page 49 on the K3 manual to calibrate the power 
out on the K3.  After doing this you calibrate "per-band" using a 
procedure on the same page.  I didn't realize the K3 power meter is not 
absolute.  In other words, this procedure on page 49 is what tells the 
K3 power meter how much 100 watts really is (actually 50 watts is used 
for the test).

I had calibrated my K3 watt meter some time ago against an MFJ-949E 
antenna tuner watt meter.  (OK stop laughing).  Turns out the MFJ unit 
and another cheapo SWR meter I had here were both way off.  The MFJ 
reported 100w when the true output was more like 70.  As a result, even 
though my K3 watt meter read 100w, in perfect agreement with the MFJ, 
both were wrong.

I re-calibrated, per Don's suggestion, using the LP100A as the 
reference.  Now 100w on my K3 shows 100w on the LP100A and 125 watts on 
the MFJ.  As an added bonus, my amplifier now puts out full power as it 
was being under driven before.

-- 
Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Hum on Audio...

2012-01-13 Thread Buck - k4ia
Is it possible that in setting the power level, you accidentally turned 
up the compression?  (they are on the same knob).  If the compression is 
too high it will make a rushing, buzzing sound on the audio

Buck
k4ia


On 1/13/2012 2:09 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:
> Ron,
>
> OK, now it appears I was mistaken when I said that that the hum was in both 
> mics.  I think I flubbed something up in my previous test due to the way that 
> the macros are assigned to keys which led me to thinking that the hum 
> occurred in both mics.   But, I learned something in this...
>
> One, don't try to use one of your macro assigned keys (in my case M2 and M1) 
> while in the menu because that merely reassigns the key to the new menu 
> entry.  I made this mistake several times this morning.  But, when I 
> discovered it and then reset my macro definitions, I rediscovered that the 
> HUM occurs in the front panel MH2 hand held mic only.  I did this test 
> several times to make sure I was not confusing things.
>
> I discovered something else that I did not know before.  PTT is actuated by 
> any of the methods of PTT.  So, when I thought I had the headphones CM500 mic 
> enabled I used my foot switch for push to talk and since that worked for some 
> dumb reason I was thinking I had successfully switched from front panel to 
> rear panel.  But, I had not.  I also discovered that I could use the hand mic 
> (front panel) PTT switch even though my rear panel mic was being used.  Now, 
> after I discovered this, I realize that it is obvious but something that lead 
> to my confusion.
>
> So, the problem occurs on the FRONT PANEL mic only and not the rear panel.  
> And, the problem occurs when the K3 is in TOTAL isolation from all AC sources 
> except for possibly me.  I mean, I am holding the mic but then I don't think 
> that is a cause of the hum because I tried it with a insulated hand and it 
> still caused the hum on the front panel mic.
>
> I doubt that this is caused by wall-outlet type AC because I have erased all 
> AC for some of my tests.  And, besides, this problem seemed to occur 
>
> OK, while writing that last sentence something occurred to me.  Another 
> change I had made on Wednesday after I had my good audio reports on the MH2 
> front panel mic was that I set the configuration for the band specific power 
> levels to work with the KPA500.  So, I just now went to test the mic and 
> change that setting around but the hum is gone.
>
> I repeat, the hum is gone from the front panel mic.   I now can't test the 
> band specific power menu setting because I have no problem.
>
> But, I have a suspicion as to the cause now and I am going to do some other 
> experiments.
>
> 73, phil
>
>
> On Jan 13, 2012, at 10:15 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>
>> Yeah, Phil, two mics doing it eliminates the easy idea of a bad wire in one
>> of them.
>>
>> When switching mics, be sure to physically disconnect the one you are not
>> using. An ungrounded mic hot lead might introduce hum, even if you have the
>> other mic enabled.
>>
>> Hand effects suggest a ground loop- either AC or RF. Being in TEST mode
>> eliminates RF, since you aren't making any.
>>
>> I'd start disconnecting things one at a time. If the hum is still there with
>> everything but the mic and power supply connected, you can be sure it's not
>> in the external gear.
>>
>> Do you have another power supply you can substitute? All it needs to do is
>> provide enough current for receive, since you are "transmitting" in TEST
>> mode. One possibility is that you'd lost filtering in the power supply. That
>> can produce different levels of hum from different mics, depending upon the
>> gain settings, etc.
>>
>> If it's clean on the alternate power supply, that leaves ONLY the K3, of
>> course.
>>
>> 73,
>>
>> Ron AC7AC
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Phil Hystad [mailto:phys...@mac.com]
>> Sent: Friday, January 13, 2012 9:21 AM
>> To: Ron D'Eau Claire
>> Cc: 'Elecraft List'
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Hum on Audio...
>>
>> Ron,
>>
>> I have been able to do more tests.  Unfortunately, it is in both mics but
>> not as strong in the Yamaha CM500 mic as in the MH2 but it is present.
>>
>> This morning I double checked all connections (most in the back).  This
>> includes the key out to the KPA500, the plugs for the cm500, the external
>> speaker, my foot PTT switch, and even the svga cable to the KPA500.  Nuts,
>> have not tested the serial port yet.  However, absolutely no difference in
>>

Re: [Elecraft] K3 #6150

2012-01-08 Thread Buck k4ia
How about a Mouser part # for those knobs?

Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101

On 1/8/2012 2:17 PM, David Gilbert wrote:
>
> I certainly agree with your overall sentiment.   It beats me why
> Elecraft would continue to use a parts vendor that produces knobs with
> such horrible quality control.   Three years is a ridiculous amount of
> time for any supplier to get its act together.
>
> My AF/RF knobs had the cracking problem, and while Elecraft did quickly
> replace them I bought the machined aluminum knobs from Mouser anyway and
> I love them.  They have a very solid feel to them and I actually like
> the fact that they stick out.  They don't stick out any more than the
> main VFO knob, and since I am right handed they are easier for my hand
> to quickly access past the other four small knobs.
>
> 73,
> Dave   AB7E
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
>> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of NZ8J
>> Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2012 1:04 AM
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 #6150
>>
>>
>> K3/100 kit sn 6150 arrived yesterday just in time for the weekend.  Took
>> my time today and it went together in about 8 hours, with no significant
>> issues. Everything worked according to the manual as I expected. There
>> is one issue that is somewhat irritating though.  The AF and RF knobs
>> cannot be "nested" as they should be to fit properly. In order to be
>> able to turn the AF gain or RF gain without having them catch on the
>> larger respective SUB knobs they have to be pulled out so they won't
>> catch. They are visibly out of alignment.
>>
>> A quick search of the archives revealed a rather long 2 /1/2 year old
>> thread about some defective knobs.  The gist of the thread was not so
>> much about them cracking or breaking as some had experienced, it was
>> because they were "off center" and would not allow for a proper
>> installation. Apparently whatever the issue was, it is still there 2 1/2
>> years later as the one I received yesterday has the same problem.
>>
>> It's hard to understand how a product can be so well designed and the
>> manufacturing tolerances so close (take the cabinet parts and pieces as
>> one example) but yet something as seemingly simple as a plastic knob
>> some 2 1/2 years after an in-depth discussion that Elecraft was part of
>> are still being manufactured and delivered out of tolerance. I don't
>> have a problem with the intended look or feel of the knobs, I think they
>> are fine, just the fact they turn out so badly in many cases and detract
>> from the end product.
>>
>> I was having a lot of fun putting this together today until I got to the
>> part where I installed the knobs, big disappointment!
>>
>> I have a set of the Mouser  machined aluminum knobs and although they
>> are smooth and have a nice feel they just don't match the rest of the
>> knobs to my liking, I wonder if anyone has come up with an alternative
>> to the Mouser knobs?
>>
>> Tim
>> NZ8J
>>
>> K3 - 6150
>> P3- 1775
>> KPA500 - 618
>>
>>
>>
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Internal Tuner Question

2012-01-03 Thread Buck k4ia
Well here's one for you:

My setup is K3 to wattmeter to dummy load.

The K3 says 100w
If the external wattmeter is:
MFJ 949E tuner/SWR meter (tuner out of circuit) it says 100w
cheapo Radio Shack SWR meter 100w
LP 100A digital wattmeter says 70 watts
Elecraft W2 says 70 watts

Yes, I have run the transmitter calibration routine in the K3 Utility 
program.  SWR in all three cases is nominal 1:1

The result is the same to a real antenna although the SWR is not 1:1

What could be causing the external-sensor type wattmeters to read low?

Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101

On 1/2/2012 10:14 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> Quite right.
>
> There a couple of impedance transformations that occur between the
> collectors (or plates) of the power amplifiers and the antenna. The first is
> done by the output filters. In modern rigs, they are fixed tuned and
> designed in common Ham rigs to convert the impedance at the collectors to 50
> ohms, resistive.
>
> If your antenna presents that impedance, no further conversion is necessary.
> But many antennas don't.
>
> In the "old" days the output network was adjustable and we simply did the
> necessary adjustments and all was good.
>
> Nowadays, with fixed tuned amplifier output networks, we need another
> matching network to handle the conversion when the antenna doesn't present a
> 50 ohms resistive load.
>
> Enter the "antenna tuner" that converts what the antenna shows to the 50
> ohms needed by the output filter. The built in SWR meter displays the SWR on
> the link between the tuner and the output filter.
>
> Ron AC7AC
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Tom Azlin N4ZPT
> Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 6:19 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Internal Tuner Question
>
> Thanks Matthew. I should not have spoken like that. Should just
> have said the meter in the line would not change just because a radio
> tuner transformed impedance to make the radio happy. 73, tom n4zpt
>
> On 1/2/2012 9:11 PM, Matthew Pitts wrote:
>> Tom,
>>
>> All an antenna tuner does is show the radio the load it expects; the
>> SWR will still be high at the output of the tuner, and an SWR meter
>> in the coax at that output will show it as it actually is at that
>> point, not as it is on the input of the tuner/output of the radio.
>>
>> Matthew Pitts N8OHU
>
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Re: [Elecraft] N1MM with K-3

2011-12-11 Thread K4ia
I have found in S&P that I like the pitch to start high and come down as I tune 
closer. It makes it easier to hear the signal "coming".   Thus, the need to be 
on a different side depending on if I am tuning up or down.  

Craig Buck

On Dec 11, 2011, at 2:08 PM, Jim McCook  wrote:

> On a recent post I discussed the need to use a memory to return to the 
> bottom of a CW band without changing the SUB frequency.  While using 
> N1MM the best answer seems to be to use a zero in the entry window or 
> clicking on band bottom with the bandmap.  However, this changes the CW 
> REV to CW (using LSB tuning).  For me this requires a hold of the ALT to 
> return to what I think is normal (USB tuning).  I've never understood 
> the desire to use LSB tuning, but I guess some folks like that method.  
> I'm trying to figure out how to NOT change the CW REV by this method, or 
> by changing the K-3 so normal CW mode is USB tuning like I think it 
> should be.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> I still hope for an option for a memory to only affect the MAIN receiver 
> and NOT THE SUB.  I also wish for the amplifier key line to be disabled 
> when PTT is not activated.  This remains a huge flaw with me and with 
> all my friends, especially those who use the lockout feature when 
> running M/S.
> 
> 73, Jim
> W6YA
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Re: [Elecraft] Mic problem

2011-11-26 Thread Buck k4ia
In the main Config Menu > Mic Sel, I plug the mic into the front panel 
and use FP-H and no bias.  Mic gain 18-20.  Unless you have an Icom 
cartridge in the Pro-Set.  That would require bias.

Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101

On 11/26/2011 4:35 PM, Jack Berry wrote:
> I have a Pro-Set mic that came with the purchase of a used K3, s/n #3012 for
> reference.  The mic seems to be nearly dead and I wanted to make sure that I 
> am
> not  doing something wrong before sending it to Heil for testing and repair.
>
> Even with the gain full up and the mic right next to my mouth I can't  move 
> the
> ALC but do hear my voice in the head set with monitor volume up  full. I have
> tried it through both the front and rear mic sockets and  another Heil mic 
> works
> fine with the radio.
>
> Any suggestions?
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[Elecraft] K1 for Sale

2011-11-12 Thread Buck k4ia
4 Band (40,30,20 and 15) meter K1 with antenna tuner. Upgraded Firmware 
Rev 109. A really neat build - if I do say so myself. This a truly 
fantastic radio that will amaze you with its sensitivity and great 
filtering. The built-in antenna tuner will tune a wet noodle making it 
perfect for portable operation. I took it traveling and made 100s of 
QSOs all over the world with minimal antennas and a walwart power 
supply. Excellent condition non-smoking. One tiny mark on the top. Lots 
of QRP radios are just toys. The K1 is a serious rig with an excellent 
receiver. Experience Elecraft mojo at its best for only $475 plus $10 
shipping in US. Includes walwart power supply and BNC to SO239 adapter.

Please reply off list.  Thanks for looking.
-- 
Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101
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Re: [Elecraft] Accessory Build order

2011-11-12 Thread Buck k4ia
Having done this several times myself, my advice would be to do it all 
at once.  There is a certain amount of "overhead" removing screws, 
breaking into the radio and moving stuff around to get to the parts.  It 
is pain to do that multiple times.  Just get it over with.

Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101

On 11/12/2011 8:35 AM, KC9QQ wrote:
> Don,
>
> Thanks for you detailed reply.  I think I will install the KIO2 first so I
> can interface the K2 to my computer for CW contesting.
>
> I don't know if I was being very patient or just afraid I would break the K2
> which was already working so well!
>
> Fred, KC9QQ
>
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Accessory-Build-order-tp6987212p6988060.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] Who had the W2 for Sale?

2011-10-25 Thread Buck - k4ia
Whoever had the W2 for sale, please contact me.  Thunderbird ate your 
email and I am interested in buying it from you.

-- Buck k4ia
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Re: [Elecraft] Remote Control of K3 with iPhone/iDevice

2011-10-03 Thread Buck k4ia
Interesting but I could sure use some more detailed instructions how to 
set it up

Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101

On 10/3/2011 7:31 PM, Michael Downs wrote:
> I have two apps in the Apple App Store that allow you to remotely control 
> your K3 using your iPhone, iPad, or iPod Touch. These apps are free as I want 
> to encourage those who are interested to try them out and provide me feedback 
> on any bugs discovered and enhancements desired.
>
> The apps use two different approaches to communicate with the K3 from your 
> iDevice. K3iConnect establishes an ad hoc network with a wifi serial adapter 
> that fits in the RS232 port on the K3. Thus, no PC/Mac or cables are required 
> and the K3 can be remotely controlled from anywhere within 30+ feet of the 
> radio.
>
> K3iNetwork uses your local WiFi network and PC/Mac to communicate with the 
> K3. In this case you need to have your K3 tethered to your PC or Mac via an 
> RS232 cable. The advantage here is that sound from the K3 line out can be 
> streamed to the iDevice with a third party app such as Airfoil.
>
> Both apps will work with the P3.
>
> I have used these apps to carry on CW and data QSOs with other amateurs. I 
> think they are an exciting addition to the Elecraft Mojo, but they also need 
> the benefit of users ideas on how to make them better. Also, maybe other 
> iDevice or Android developers will be inspired to develop their own apps to 
> add even more capabilities.
>
> Enjoy!
>
> Mike, ks7d
>
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Re: [Elecraft] noise on SSB modulation

2011-09-23 Thread Buck k4ia
Try reducing your compression setting.  I get a noise at 25 also.


Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101

On 9/23/2011 7:33 AM, DK5EW wrote:
> Dear Buck,
> thanks for your tips but I'm not sure if I have to do any mor because my
> K3 is brand new !
> It came 05.September 2011 and has serial 5776.
> 73's Erwin/DK5EW
>
> Am 23.09.2011 13:24, schrieb Buck k4ia:
>> It is not a fan, it is RF or other noise getting back into the mic
>> circuit.  I had the same problem.  Check the two mods on the Elecraft K3
>> Enhancements and Application Notes page.  Look for Older K3 Mods>
>> "Front Panel Microphone" and "Improving the Immunity of the real panel
>> RS232 and audio connectors" to see if they apply to your rig's serial
>> number.  Do both to solve your problem.
>>
>>
>> Buck
>> k4ia
>> K3 # 101
>>
>> On 9/23/2011 6:39 AM, DK5EW wrote:
>>> Hi all,
>>> I use at my K3 a HEIL PRO SET ELITE "IC", I had this as I use it at my
>>> old ICOM IC-275H as well.
>>> Now I recognised that I have a small noise on modulation like a fan that
>>> gives me some power output when I just push PTT.
>>> OK I have in my shack 2 additional fans for cooling the PA so I switched
>>> them of. The noise is lower but still there.
>>> and there are no other noise sources. So my setting for the HEIL headset
>>> are:
>>> - MIC: 25
>>> - CMR: 25
>>> - MIC SEL: RP + HIGH BIAS
>>> - MIC+LIN: OFF
>>> Do you have any idea if I can change setting to cancel that noise ?
>>> I can not believe that the microphone is that sensitive to pick up all
>>> little noises around.
>>> best regards Erwin/DK5EW
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -
>>> eMail ist virenfrei.
>>> Von AVG überprüft -www.avg.de
>>> Version: 10.0.1410 / Virendatenbank: 1520/3913 - Ausgabedatum: 22.09.2011
>>> __
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>>
> 
>
> eMail ist virenfrei.
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>
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Re: [Elecraft] noise on SSB modulation

2011-09-23 Thread Buck k4ia
It is not a fan, it is RF or other noise getting back into the mic 
circuit.  I had the same problem.  Check the two mods on the Elecraft K3 
Enhancements and Application Notes page.  Look for Older K3 Mods > 
"Front Panel Microphone" and "Improving the Immunity of the real panel 
RS232 and audio connectors" to see if they apply to your rig's serial 
number.  Do both to solve your problem.


Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101

On 9/23/2011 6:39 AM, DK5EW wrote:
> Hi all,
> I use at my K3 a HEIL PRO SET ELITE "IC", I had this as I use it at my
> old ICOM IC-275H as well.
> Now I recognised that I have a small noise on modulation like a fan that
> gives me some power output when I just push PTT.
> OK I have in my shack 2 additional fans for cooling the PA so I switched
> them of. The noise is lower but still there.
> and there are no other noise sources. So my setting for the HEIL headset
> are:
> - MIC: 25
> - CMR: 25
> - MIC SEL: RP + HIGH BIAS
> - MIC+LIN: OFF
> Do you have any idea if I can change setting to cancel that noise ?
> I can not believe that the microphone is that sensitive to pick up all
> little noises around.
> best regards Erwin/DK5EW
>
>
>
> -
> eMail ist virenfrei.
> Von AVG überprüft - www.avg.de
> Version: 10.0.1410 / Virendatenbank: 1520/3913 - Ausgabedatum: 22.09.2011
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Contesters using N1MM voice keyer versus K3DVK

2011-09-03 Thread Buck k4ia
The advantage of the N1MM voice keyer is that it will automatically send 
the next message depending on where you are in the logging sequence. 
You can also go so far as to record individual letters and it will 
string them together to "say" callsigns and incremental QSO numbers. 
Its a lot of work to do that trick but it can be done.

If you use the K3DVK, you have to take your hands off the keyboard to 
punch a button on the front panel of the radio and your number of 
available messages is much more limited.

And, the N1MM voice keyer is free.

Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101

On 9/3/2011 9:46 PM, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:
> Hi...
>
> I am a fossil using CT on DOS.  I am now upgrading and am wondering
> about using the N1MM "DVK" option versus or in conjunction with the
> K3DVK (which I do not yet own).
>
> I suggest that you reply off-reflector; that is, directly to me, but
> clearly, "your choice."
>
> 1.  If you utilize the "DVK" in N1MM instead of the K3DVK, please
> discuss that with me
>
> 2.  If you utilize N1MM to key the K3DVK please discuss that with me.
>
> 3.  Something else?
>
> I'd like to know "why" in each case.
>
> Thanks,
> de Doug KR2Q
>
> I dislike phone, but love contesting..maybe this will help.
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Re: [Elecraft] low power on 6 meters

2011-07-17 Thread K4ia
I notice high swr when my AL572 is in the antenna circuit - even when turned 
off.  When I hook the coax directly to the K3, the swr is 1:1. Haven't figured 
out why except maybe there is a low pass filter built in the amp that is in 
line all the time.  

Craig Buck

On Jul 17, 2011, at 11:07 AM, WILLIS COOKE  wrote:

> Bob, do you have an amplifier in line on 6 meters?  I have noticed that my 
> Clipperton L absorbs about 15 watts on 6 meters even when it it turned off.  
> It 
> does not do this on the lower bands.  You can easily find out by taking the 
> connectors loose on the amp and replacing with a short barrel connector.  May 
> not be your problem, but it is mine.
>  Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
> K5EWJ & Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: Robert Garceau 
> To: Elecraft 
> Sent: Sun, July 17, 2011 6:11:59 AM
> Subject: [Elecraft] low power on 6 meters
> 
> I have seen this issue posted before, but no answers that I can see.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a K3 and the output is no more than 52 watts with an swr of
> 1.23..sometime get it up to 62.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I have the KPA500 and using 40 watts to exite the amp, I get just a tad
> over 425 watts.
> 
> 
> 
> Don't think I want to push it over 40 watts. And to be honest there probably
> isn't much difference between 425 and 500, but would like to know why I
> can't get the 100 like I should..
> 
> 
> 
> Bob, W1EQ
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [N1MM] Re: [microHAM] Re: K3/ Microkeyer/N1MM lockup at FD

2011-06-28 Thread Buck - k4ia
That confuses me - how does the Winkey chip send PTT based on data in 
the buffer?  Is there a setting I am missing?

Buck
k4ia


On 6/28/2011 10:56 AM, Steve London wrote:
> On 06/28/2011 08:37 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
>
>> I'm concerned because you indicated that the CW Keyer PTT LED was
>> lit.  Even though you did not have a PTT line connected between the
>> CW Keyer and K3, that tells me that N1MM had sent the WinKey PTT On
>> command (and the K3 "TX1;" command) and did not send the PTT OFF
>> commands when you hit the key.  The fact that *BOTH* (potential)
>> sources of PTT were engaged would point to an N1MM timing issue -
>> I can't see both devices "missing" the PTT Off commands.
> N1MM Logger only sets Winkey PTT for SSB. For CW, the Winkey PTT is set
> automatically by the Winkey chip, based on data in the buffer, not by any N1MM
> Logger command.
>
> 73,
> Steve, N2IC
>
>
> 
>
> This list is for the exchange of information about the use and operation of 
> microHAM products.
>
> Anyone with specific hardware support issues should contact microHAM support 
> at mailto:supp...@microham.com.
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> <*>  To visit your group on the web, go to:
>  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/microHAM/
>
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>
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>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/ Microkeyer/N1MM lockup at FD

2011-06-28 Thread Buck - k4ia
Joe

You're right - the correct name is the MicroHam CW Keyer.  Router 
version 7.7.1  Was using the latest N1MM 11.5.1

I was not using a PTT cable - I had "PTT via Radio Command" checked in 
the N1MM serial port setup.  I did not have "Energize Hardware and 
Software PTT" because I wasn't using Hardware PTT.  Should I check it 
anyway?

I don't think this is a MH issue.  Sounds more like you suggested, N1MM 
is not releasing the PTT properly when a key is struck - or the K3 is 
being confused by the software command.  It may be a data-clash timing 
issue depending on exactly when in the sequence of commands flying back 
and forth I hit a key.  I say this because the lockup doesn't happen 
every time I interrupt the auto CQ sequence.  In the heat of battle I 
can't say for sure, but it seems like it happened if I hit a key right 
about the same time the auto CQ was just getting started.

If it is a data clash, one solution could be to hook up the PTT line and 
use hardware PTT.  What do you think?

Buck
k4ia


On 6/27/2011 6:56 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
>
> > The setup was a K3, N1MM and a MicroHam MicroKeyer (the CW only
> > model).
>
> Do you mean the microHAM CW Keyer or some other interface?
>
>> Several times, the keying stopped but the radio remained frozen in
>> transmit mode. The PTT light was ON on the MicroKeyer, the transmit
>> light was ON on the K3 and N1MM wouldn't respond.
>
> I assume you had a PTT cable connected from the CW Keyer to the K3
> PTT jack.
>
> 1) What version of N1MM Logger were you using?
>
> 2) What PTT settings did you have in N1MM Logger?
>
> 3) Did you have PTT assigned to an RTS line on the Radio port?
>
>If so, did you have "Energize Hardware & Software PTT" checked
>in the N1MM serial port configuration?
>
>If you had "Energize Hardware & Software PTT" checked did you
>have "PTT via Radio Command CW Mode" checked?
>
> microHAM Router intercepts the WinKey "PTT On" and  "PTT Off" commands
> and translates them to serial (RTS) PTT internally.  I have not tried
> to look at the WinKey data stream recently but perhaps N1MM Logger is
> not sending the WinKey "PTT Off" command when you strike any key
> except .
>
> 73,
>
>... Joe, W4TV
>
>
> On 6/27/2011 5:59 PM, Buck - k4ia wrote:
>> The mighty K4TS, Rappahannock Valley Amateur Radio Club, 8A Field Day
>> featured 1 K3 - mine on 40 CW.  40 CW made 925 contacts but only 854
>> after eliminating the dupes.  The K3 really strutted its stuff and it
>> was obvious what a superior rig it is when I went around and listened to
>> what other radios were hearing - a mush of noise and IMD that made
>> operating almost impossible Saturday night.  Several ops just gave up as
>> the noise and close signals crushed their rigs.  They marveled out how
>> clear the K3 sounded.  No news there.
>>
>> I did have one glitch that happened several times.  I proffer it to all
>> three groups for comment.
>> The setup was a K3, N1MM and a MicroHam MicroKeyer (the CW only model).
>>
>> The keyer would start to auto-send CQ just as I heard a call.  When I
>> hit a key on the computer keyboard (including the ESC key), the keying
>> should stop and the radio go into receive mode.  Several times, the
>> keying stopped but the radio remained frozen in transmit mode.  The PTT
>> light was ON on the MicroKeyer, the transmit light was ON on the K3 and
>> N1MM wouldn't respond.  Paddles plugged into the MicroKeyer did
>> nothing.  The "fix" was to turn off the K3 and turn it back on again.
>> That would release the PTT and all would go back to normal.  It didn't
>> happen every time but it did happen a lot.
>>
>> Anyone with any ideas, chime in.
>>
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[Elecraft] K3/ Microkeyer/N1MM lockup at FD

2011-06-27 Thread Buck - k4ia
The mighty K4TS, Rappahannock Valley Amateur Radio Club, 8A Field Day 
featured 1 K3 - mine on 40 CW.  40 CW made 925 contacts but only 854 
after eliminating the dupes.  The K3 really strutted its stuff and it 
was obvious what a superior rig it is when I went around and listened to 
what other radios were hearing - a mush of noise and IMD that made 
operating almost impossible Saturday night.  Several ops just gave up as 
the noise and close signals crushed their rigs.  They marveled out how 
clear the K3 sounded.  No news there.

I did have one glitch that happened several times.  I proffer it to all 
three groups for comment.
The setup was a K3, N1MM and a MicroHam MicroKeyer (the CW only model).

The keyer would start to auto-send CQ just as I heard a call.  When I 
hit a key on the computer keyboard (including the ESC key), the keying 
should stop and the radio go into receive mode.  Several times, the 
keying stopped but the radio remained frozen in transmit mode.  The PTT 
light was ON on the MicroKeyer, the transmit light was ON on the K3 and 
N1MM wouldn't respond.  Paddles plugged into the MicroKeyer did 
nothing.  The "fix" was to turn off the K3 and turn it back on again.  
That would release the PTT and all would go back to normal.  It didn't 
happen every time but it did happen a lot.

Anyone with any ideas, chime in.

-- 

Buck
k4ia

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Re: [Elecraft] New rig, so sigs

2011-06-12 Thread Buck k4ia
Go back and be double plus certain you put the filter in the right slot 
and that you have enabled it in the menu.

Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101

On 6/12/2011 9:34 AM, Iain Haywood wrote:
> Well,
>
> My K3 arrived promptly, constructed it in 6 hrs last night, easy peasy..
>
> However I was last active two sunspot maxima ago, (1983 ish) and found
> it easy to receive on all bands with just a 30 foot length of wire slung
> out my rooms window.
>
> I know its now just passed a solar minima but hell its quiet.
>
> So far I have heard no sigs, although the the receiver seems to be
> working fine, aerial tunes up oK, normal band noise.
>
> About S9 noise on most bands though, without the attenuator switched in,
> NB and NR work well.
>
> Very frustrating, gonna have to take it somewhere with a good antenna to
> test properly, as I expect at least to hear a few locals.
>
> Unfortunately I rent and have no room for a dipole even but Im working
> on that, neighbours are being primed, may get away with a trapped
> inverted L next week.
>
> Gonna go round switching off all TV's and floro lights
>
> Sure its fine but very frustrating.
>
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Something *really* new at Dayton from Elecraft

2011-05-22 Thread Buck - k4ia
Wayne mentioned the possibility of a low power 2 meter module in the KX3.

Stay tuned - there is lots more to come.

Buck
k4ia


On 5/22/2011 6:54 AM, Julian, G4ILO wrote:
> Oliver Dröse wrote:
>> It isn't! At least 2 m is missing. :-((
>>
>>
>>
> Yes, I have to agree. Is it too late for provision to be made in the design
> for a 5W (at least) internal 2m transverter module? I think there are a lot
> of people for whom this would make a big difference to the eventual purchase
> decision.
>
> -
> Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
> * G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
> * KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
> * KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html
>
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Something-really-new-at-Dayton-from-Elecraft-tp6380523p6391223.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3. RX too sensitive for me - S-meter/RFgain/absolute mode...

2011-05-17 Thread Buck k4ia
Riding the RF gain just changes the floor.  An S7 signal will still read 
S7.  No?

Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101

On 5/17/2011 7:56 PM, VK7JB wrote:
> Helpful comments, Jim.
> I ride the RF gain control on the K3 to very good effect.  The only problem,
> as you point out, is that the S-meter won't read signal strength at the
> antenna with the RF gain wound back.  I have my K3 s-meter set in absolute
> mode, so using ATT or PRE does not influence the s-meter reading, but using
> RF gain does.
>
> On my TenTec Eagle, the S-meter reads independently of ATT, PRE AND RF gain
> control.  I find this very helpful, given that rely on the RF gain control
> adjustment to give me comfortable listening.  I can then look at the s-meter
> and give a meaningful report without having to wind up the RF gain.
>
> Is there a way of implementing this on the K3?  Is there any reason why this
> hasn't been implemented in absolute mode?  Would be great if it could be.
>
> 73,
> John
> VK7JB
>
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-RX-too-sensitive-for-me-tp6374861p6375785.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: How to set Split in PSK31 Data mode

2011-05-11 Thread Buck - k4ia
Press 2 times quickly to transfer both frequency and mode to VFO B.  
Then, press and hold to go into Split Operation.

Or, even easier, using a program like WinWarbler that decodes multiple 
traces, you can pick your transmit frequency and watch the receive side 
in a separate frame.  That is the way I would do PSK split.

Buck
k4ia


On 5/11/2011 5:49 PM, w...@w5ov.com wrote:
> At the risk of beating the same old expired equine, this is because the
> radio's SPLIT function is disabled unless you already have the other VFO
> and mode set in a way that allows you to go SPLIT. This is a bad thing and
> a flaw in the K3's operational logic.
>
> I have pointed out that this is a flaw previously, and yours is just
> another example that proves the point.
>
> The way it should work is that when you PRESS and HOLD SPLIT,
>
> ***AND *ONLY IF* both VFO's are NOT on the same band and mode***
>
> the radio should do a VFOA->VFOB and then enable SPLIT. Otherwise, if both
> VFOs are already on the same band and mode, it should only enable SPLIT
> without first making the VFOs equal.
>
> The error message that it won't allow SPLIT when the VFO and mode is
> different serves no useful purpose and is a waste of time. Talk about
> ergonomic overhead!
>
> 73,
>
> Bob W5OV
>
>
>
>> LU,
>>
>> Aaaahnow the light bulb has been energised...Grin
>>
>> Guess I better go listen around some more and yes I see the reason now.
>>
>> 73's
>> Gary - slow learner
>>
>> On 12 May 2011 02:03, Kos  wrote:
>>
>>> Joe, W4TV may have hit on the answer - both VFOs muct be in DATA A mode;
>>> I'll have to wait to get home to check this out. This of course wouldn't
>>> allow cross-mode operation, though I don't see that happening with these
>>> particular modes.
>>>
>>> I've seen two DX stations on PSK in the last two weeks using split mode
>>> -
>>> the latest was an A4 on PSK-63 this past weekend advertising he was
>>> listening 1-2 UP. He had a rather robust pileup going I can see the
>>> usefullness of this for DXpeditions that would choose to operate on PSK.
>>>
>>> Kos, N4NIA
>>>
>>>   --
>>> *From:* Lu Romero
>>> *To:* Gary Gregory; S Kosmetatos
>>> >> *Cc:* lrom...@ij.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>> *Sent:* Wed, May 11, 2011 11:30:16 AM
>>>
>>> *Subject:* Re: [Elecraft] K3: How to set Split in PSK31 Data mode
>>>
>>> I dont know either, Gary... Usually, when I operate PSK31, I
>>> use the computer, and since I dont use that mode too often
>>> either, I have never run into the need to run split.
>>>
>>> But it is a valid question... Why cant you set split in
>>> Digital mode PSK on the radio, yet you can set it for RTTY
>>> and AFSK...
>>>
>>> Seems to me it should make no difference to the radio.
>>> Maybe it has something to do with the firmware decoder for
>>> PSK31.
>>>
>>> -lu-w4lt-
>>> K3 # 3192
>>>
>>> - Original Message Follows -
>>> From: Gary Gregory
>>> To: S Kosmetatos
>>> Cc: lrom...@ij.net, elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: How to set Split in PSK31 Data
>>> mode
>>> Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 14:08:16 +1000
>>>
>>>> I am puzzled as to why split would be used in PSK-31???
>>>> Given the mode it is, the band width used etc, etc..
>>>>
>>>> I have not come across stations operating split on PSK-31
>>>> but then that is most likely my fault as I don't use that
>>>> mode very often nowadays...:-)
>>>>
>>>> 73's
>>>> Gary
>>>>
>>>> On 11 May 2011 12:36, S Kosmetatos
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hey guys,
>>>>>
>>>>> I was glad to see Luis' question on this as I ran into
>>>>> this issue as well using PSK over the weekend, and though
>>>>> HRD has a split mode, it wasn't as intuitive or as handy
>>>>> as just being able to invoke a split mode using the VFOs.
>>>>>
>>>>> Is this working as designed for this particular data mode
>>>>> , or am I too missing something in the configuration?
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>
>>>>> Kos, N4NIA
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> -

Re: [Elecraft] Power Supply For K3?

2011-05-11 Thread Buck - k4ia
35A Astron linear running for 24/7 10 years at home with no issues.

Samlex 1223 switcher at Field Day for 24 hours of constant CW in 
Virginia-summer heat with no issues.  There is no "head room" in this 
supply to run any other accessories so it is a bare minimum for 
capacity.  I do not hear any RFI with it but I only operate 40M.  I 
understand Samlex supplies are quiet but, as others have pointed out, 
there is bound to be noise somewhere.


Buck
k4ia



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Re: [Elecraft] Mac Grounding

2011-04-12 Thread Buck - k4ia
I found it necessary to ground my computer chassis to prevent the 
incursion of RFI.  I scraped off some paint on the rear and bolted a 
ground strap from there to my star point ground system for the shack.  
It was not an issue of safety ground but of RF being induced into the 
computer from the nearby antennas.  My RFI manifested itself as 
distortion when using the soundcard as a DVR for contests.   The 
recording sounded fine but what went out over the air was distorted.

I also had to perform the pin1 mods to my early serial number K3.  
Anyone having RFI issues should investigate these mods.  Info is 
available on the Elecraft website under Alerts, Enhancements and 
Application Notes.  There are two mods - one to the microphone jack and 
one to the real panel.

After doing the above, I have had no more problems with RFI.

Buck
k4ia


On 4/12/2011 2:07 PM, Edward R. Cole wrote:
> None of my computer chassis are grounded directly to my radio
> grounds.  I made it especially that way to avoid audio ground
> loops.  All the computers are normal appliances with UL rated
> connections to AC mains which are required by code to have a safety
> ground tied to the main service entrance.  You do not see the
> millions of computer users worrying about having extra grounding on
> the computers.
>
> IF your home has improper AC wiring then FIX that.  There is no need
> for extra grounding if your home is properly wired.  Lightning is
> something that no amount of grounding will prevent.  This has also
> been thoroughly discussed for those that want to know how to protect
> equipment from lightning.
>
> More important is that the radio equipment have better grounding for
> RF as well as safety.  I do that thru a #8 awg wire to an outside
> ground rod.  Beyond saying that, the topic of grounding in the ham
> shack has been thoroughly discussed on this reflector (and should not
> need further discussion).
>
> That's my two cents on this topic and all you will hear from me on it.
>
>
> 73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
> ==
> BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
> EME: 144-1.4kw, 432-100w, 1296-testing*, 3400-winter?
> DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@hotmail.com
> ==
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Re: [Elecraft] OT Hearing HRD Communicate w/K3

2011-03-18 Thread Buck - k4ia
There are also two pin 1 mods that solved my problems.  Search the 
Alerts Enhancements page on the Elecraft website.

Buck
k4ia


On 3/18/2011 6:18 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
> On 3/18/2011 2:51 PM, Elecraft K3 wrote:
>> I am experiencing a confounding problem with Ham Radio Deluxe, Digital 
>> Master 780 and my K3.  I've determined that HRD polling the K3 is 
>> introducing a croaking pulse-like noise into my signal chain.
> I strongly suspect that HRD is NOT causing this problem, but rather a
> problem with either the computer or the K3 generating RF trash on the
> serial connection. This is not uncommon, and generally is the result of
> a Pin One problem at one or more of the data and/or audio ports.
> Virtually all computer sound cards and data ports have Pin One problems.
>
> IF the trash is coupled by RF to the antenna(s), a SERIOUS multi-turn
> ferrite choke on the problematic cable(s) should help.  The choke should
> be tuned (by varying the number of turns) to cover the frequency range
> where you are hearing interference.
>
> Study http://audiosystemsgroup.com/RFI-Ham.pdf
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] K3 - If you're having audio problems

2011-01-04 Thread K4IA
I don't operate phone much but when I tried to I  heard a weak pulsing buzz 
corresponding to the USB port polling the radio.   I also had trouble 
getting the mic gain and compression right.  It seemed I  had to turn both way 
down and yell in the mic because if I turned either up, I  got a rushing noise 
in the audio.  There was no RF "bite" and I was using a  star-point ground 
system so I assumed I did not have any RF in the  shack.

I asked Joe at Microham about it and he suggested the two mods on  the 
Elecraft website dealing with bypassing a few RF chokes and modifying the  
microphone jack.  These mods are for early K3s and the instructions tell  how 
to 
check if you need them using a DVM.  My K3 #101 was a  candidate.  Neither 
mod is particularly difficult and the only part  required is a bit of wire.  

I am glad to say that after performing  the surgery the pulsing buzz is 
gone and the mic gain and compression settings  are working normally.  Night 
and day difference.

I offer this as  advice to anyone who experiences issues with noise in the 
audio or difficulty  adjusting the mic gain and compression.  

Buck
k4ia
K3 #101  

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Re: [Elecraft] An AGC story

2010-12-09 Thread K4IA
As I understand the graphs and  operation:

AGC Threshold is the point at which AGC action  starts.  The higher the AGC 
THR number, the higher point at which AGC  starts.  The highest AGC THR (8) 
starts AGC action at S3.   That  is a pretty low level but any setting less 
than THR 8 starts the AGC action with  even less signal. 

AGC SLP is how aggressive the AGC action is as  signals rise.  A highest 
AGC SLP number means the AGC flattens  everyone.  AT SLP = 15 all signals 
above S3 are brought to roughly the same  level.  Heard one at a time, two 
signals - one at S3 and one at S9 will  sound the same level.

But, since AGC works on every signal in the  passband, if there are two 
signals - one S9 and the other S3 appearing at the  same time, the S3 signal 
will disappear because the AGC is knocking down the S9  signal to an S3 level 
and thereby also reducing the S3 signal to the  noise.  Using a less 
aggressive (lower) slope number will help but the  dynamic range between and S3 
and 
S9 signal is compressed.  The core problem  is the AGC starts at such a low 
level.  Background noise alone on 80 - 40  is almost always more than S3. 

The suggestion is an AGC THR  setting to allow higher than an S3 level 
before AGC action starts.  That  makes sense but does it start to degrade the 
high-end dynamic range of the  radio?  Are we in danger of overloading the 
intermediate amplifiers/mixers  generating IMD and other unwanted issues?  
Seems like there is a balancing  act here.

Another way to accomplish this is to use the Attenuator  and/or reduce the 
RF gain to reset our starting point so that the S5 signal at  the antenna 
becomes an S3 signal at the AGC level and our AGC action doesn't  really begin 
until S5.  I would like the ability to switch in even more  attenuation for 
high noise conditions.  Can that be done through the  software?

Still I would like to try a higher AGC THR setting and see how  it plays.  
The beauty of this radio is its ability to adjust to different  conditions - 
one size does not fit all.  Unfortunately, its also  complicated.  It has 
taken me three years to figure this little bit  out.  

Comments?  Do I understand it  right?

Buck
k4ia
K3  #101








In  a message dated 12/9/2010 10:11:19 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
barry.n...@gmail.com writes:
Thanks Don.  I just realized that I can do  some quick experiments to get my
answer using an XG2's s3/s9 capability and  noting audio level increase with
AGC Off and then with AGC On and reducing RF  Gain until same audio increase
is accomplished.

An aside to KE7X and  W4TV:  I too wish we could try experimental firmware
that significantly  raised the max AGC THR value.

And to K6LL: Yes, I too fear loss of weaker  signals

73, Barry N1EU

On Thu, Dec 9, 2010 at 3:00 PM, Don Wilhelm   wrote:

>  Barry,
>
>  Without doing any measurements it may be difficult to say precisely, and 
 I
> would think there would be a bit of difference from one K3 to  another.
>
> However, there is a quick and easy way to accomplish  that - note that the
> S-meter increases as the RF gain is reduced.   So if you want to increase 
the
> AGC Threshold by (say) 3 S-units,  disconnect the antenna, and reduce the 
RF
> Gain until you move the  no-signal S-meter up by 3 S-units.  That should 
be
> close to your  goal.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 12/9/2010 9:07  AM, Barry N1EU wrote:
>
>>
>> Cady, Fred  wrote:
>>
>>> I made some measurements and have posted the  results for your perusal
>>> and information at  www.ke7x.com.
>>>
>> Very interested findings -  Fred  has a graph of AGC action with AGC 
THR=8
>> labeled figure 3 on  http://www.ke7x.com/home/the-k3-agc-story  :
>>
>> So I  ask this group: is it possible to raise the AGC Threshold from s3 
to
>>  s6
>> or s9 by simply reducing the RF Gain control?  Can anybody  estimate what
>> settings of the RF Gain control would accomplish  that?
>>
>> Barry  N1EU
>>
>>
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