[Elecraft] K3 Help need to buy old style K3 synthesizer

[DC]

All:

I just had the synthesizer on my K3 stop working.  It is the old style 
synthesizer with a backplate (not necessary).  Does anyone who upgraded 
to the new K3S synthesizers have  a a old style with or without 
backplate that they would sell me?  I know for sure it is the synthesizer.



Thank you & 73's


Richard

K6VV



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[Elecraft] K3 Help Macro Mic Input

[i5nph]

I am using firmware 05.57 and I am tryng to use the command MP to write macro
to switch Microphone from LINEIN and FPH.

But I get response MP?

This macro I know was working before.it is very important because I work
JT65 and I would like to switch the way of the audio input (LINEIN and FPH)
without be forced to go to Menu.

Hope in some help

Thanks in advance

73




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Re: [Elecraft] [ELECRAFT] K3: Help! No output on 80m CW

[Oliver Dröse]

Hi Tom,

sounds like a problem with either your antenna (or coax or connectors) 
or maybe RF in the shack? A friend of mine had a similar problem (only 
on 160 m) and it turned out the KAT500 picked up RF through one of the 
cables connected that drove the KAT500 internal frequency counter nuts. 
A few ferrits solved the problem.


73, Olli - DH8BQA

Contest, DX & radio projects: http://www.dh8bqa.de


Am 29.11.2014 04:13, schrieb tom...@videotron.ca:



Ok more detail. If I set Tune power to 30w and then press Tune, then with the 
KAT500 in manual it will tune down to 1.2:1. HOWEVER, if I leave it there with 
the tune power on,the KAT 500 starts showing 1.2, three seconds later, an bunch 
of relays click, the power SWR scale lights up, the fault line comes on. Then 
all of a sudden, it is steady again. Shows 1.2:1.. Three seconds later it all 
repeats. Now if I do it with CW, same thing is happening although it's more 
difficult to see what's going on due to the intermittent signal.. So it's 
something with the KAT500 and the antenna. But, voice is perfectly fine!

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Re: [Elecraft] [ELECRAFT] K3: Help! No output on 80m CW

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

The average power of voice is far below that of CW. If there is a corroded
connection that is heating up and failing, then cooling and reconnecting,
it could be happening with CW and not SSB. Try reducing the output of the
KPA500 to 100 watts on CW and see if the trouble goes away.

We one time had a failure something like this at NY4A. The trouble was
traced to a male/female UHF elbow coax adapter, one of the cheeep, cheeep
kind that makes the center connection around the bend in the elbow with a
spring in the center. This is easier to manufacture than the good kind,
which is why they are cheeep.

Over time these springs heat up, lose their tension, corrode at the
connection points, and display weird symptoms like you describe. Worth
checking out. The only reliably non-spring elbows are Amphenol's, where the
male center pin screws into the conductor from the female side. Once you
know what to look for, you can tell in an instant.

Throw all the spring based elbow coax adapters into the trash. They cannot
be rehabilitated. If you get any from a supplier, send them back and demand
a refund. I walked around a hamfest and easily found 25 of the Amphenol
types to take home.

You can also get the same kind of symptoms from a PL259 where the braid was
not soldered, or has undergone exceptional amounts of flexing, or has lived
for a long time at a current max at a high current place. These issues are
exacerbated by cheeep coax with lesser amounts of conductor in the shield.

Good luck & 73, Guy K2AV

On Fri, Nov 28, 2014 at 10:13 PM,  wrote:

>
> > Ok more detail. If I set Tune power to 30w and then press Tune, then
> with the KAT500 in manual it will tune down to 1.2:1. HOWEVER, if I leave
> it there with the tune power on,the KAT 500 starts showing 1.2, three
> seconds later, an bunch of relays click, the power SWR scale lights up, the
> fault line comes on. Then all of a sudden, it is steady again. Shows
> 1.2:1.. Three seconds later it all repeats. Now if I do it with CW, same
> thing is happening although it's more difficult to see what's going on due
> to the intermittent signal.. So it's something with the KAT500 and the
> antenna. But, voice is perfectly fine!
> >
>
>
> >
> >
> >
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Re: [Elecraft] [ELECRAFT] K3: Help! No output on 80m CW

[Tom Blahovici]

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Re: [Elecraft] [ELECRAFT] K3: Help! No output on 80m CW

[Fred Jensen]

OK Tom, I'm out of ideas.  Sorry

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 50th Running of the Cal QSO Party 3-4 Oct 2015
- www.cqp.org

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Re: [Elecraft] [ELECRAFT] K3: Help! No output on 80m CW

[tomb18]

> Ok more detail. If I set Tune power to 30w and then press Tune, then with the 
> KAT500 in manual it will tune down to 1.2:1. HOWEVER, if I leave it there 
> with the tune power on,the KAT 500 starts showing 1.2, three seconds later, 
> an bunch of relays click, the power SWR scale lights up, the fault line comes 
> on. Then all of a sudden, it is steady again. Shows 1.2:1.. Three seconds 
> later it all repeats. Now if I do it with CW, same thing is happening 
> although it's more difficult to see what's going on due to the intermittent 
> signal.. So it's something with the KAT500 and the antenna. But, voice is 
> perfectly fine!
> 
 

> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [ELECRAFT] K3: Help! No output on 80m CW

[tomb18]

Hi Test is not on. I can press tune on the K3 with 30W and put ALL the power to 
the antenna. But the minute I try CW no go. Everything goes nuts (tuner amp) 
and then no more output.Tom

On 11/28/14, Byron N6NUL   wrote:
> I don't have a K3, but I'll take a stab anyway ;)
> 
> Is test mode per- band? Or, have the per band power limits been set to 0?
> 
> 73, Byron N6NUL
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> > On Nov 28, 2014, at 18:42, tom...@videotron.ca wrote:
> > 
> > It Tunes fine and I get 1:2 It's only when I transmit CW everything goes 
> > nuts.
> > 
> >> On 11/28/14, Fred Jensen  wrote:
> >>> On 11/28/2014 6:26 PM, Tom Blahovici wrote:
> >>> Hi Antenna is correct, VOX on, checked cw weight. However, perhaps
> >>> it's my Antenna. When I tune with 10w through my kpa500 all is well.
> >>> Output is at around 300w. Voice is fine at 500w. However when I try
> >>> to send some cw through the terminal program, the KAT500 goes crazy,
> >>> has a fault, the kpa500 shows all red in swr and then stops
> >>> transmitting. At that point even if I turn off the amp and clear the
> >>> kat500 there is no power out. It sounds different than when I
> >>> transmit on 160. There no clicking no issues. Even at 500 w same
> >>> antenna.
> >> 
> >> Put KAT500 into tune, HOLD Tune on the K3, and let it tune at your tune 
> >> power [>20W]. Then put KAT500 into MAN mode and see what happens. I run 
> >> MAN all the time, KAT500 doesn't try to tune.
> >> 
> >> 73,
> >> 
> >> Fred K6DGW
> >> - Northern California Contest Club
> >> - CU in the 50th Running of the Cal QSO Party 3-4 Oct 2015
> >> - www.cqp.org
> >> __
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Re: [Elecraft] [ELECRAFT] K3: Help! No output on 80m CW

[Byron N6NUL]

I don't have a K3, but I'll take a stab anyway ;)

Is test mode per- band? Or, have the per band power limits been set to 0?

73, Byron N6NUL

Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 28, 2014, at 18:42, tom...@videotron.ca wrote:
> 
> It Tunes fine and I get 1:2 It's only when I transmit CW everything goes nuts.
> 
>> On 11/28/14, Fred Jensen   wrote:
>>> On 11/28/2014 6:26 PM, Tom Blahovici wrote:
>>> Hi Antenna is correct, VOX on, checked cw weight. However, perhaps
>>> it's my Antenna. When I tune with 10w through my kpa500 all is well.
>>> Output is at around 300w. Voice is fine at 500w. However when I try
>>> to send some cw through the terminal program, the KAT500 goes crazy,
>>> has a fault, the kpa500 shows all red in swr and then stops
>>> transmitting. At that point even if I turn off the amp and clear the
>>> kat500 there is no power out. It sounds different than when I
>>> transmit on 160. There no clicking no issues. Even at 500 w same
>>> antenna.
>> 
>> Put KAT500 into tune, HOLD Tune on the K3, and let it tune at your tune 
>> power [>20W]. Then put KAT500 into MAN mode and see what happens. I run MAN 
>> all the time, KAT500 doesn't try to tune.
>> 
>> 73,
>> 
>> Fred K6DGW
>> - Northern California Contest Club
>> - CU in the 50th Running of the Cal QSO Party 3-4 Oct 2015
>> - www.cqp.org
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Re: [Elecraft] [ELECRAFT] K3: Help! No output on 80m CW

[tomb18]

It Tunes fine and I get 1:2 It's only when I transmit CW everything goes nuts.

On 11/28/14, Fred Jensen   wrote:
> On 11/28/2014 6:26 PM, Tom Blahovici wrote:
> >Hi Antenna is correct, VOX on, checked cw weight. However, perhaps
> >it's my Antenna. When I tune with 10w through my kpa500 all is well.
> >Output is at around 300w. Voice is fine at 500w. However when I try
> >to send some cw through the terminal program, the KAT500 goes crazy,
> >has a fault, the kpa500 shows all red in swr and then stops
> >transmitting. At that point even if I turn off the amp and clear the
> >kat500 there is no power out. It sounds different than when I
> >transmit on 160. There no clicking no issues. Even at 500 w same
> >antenna.
> 
> Put KAT500 into tune, HOLD Tune on the K3, and let it tune at your tune power 
> [>20W]. Then put KAT500 into MAN mode and see what happens. I run MAN all the 
> time, KAT500 doesn't try to tune.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Fred K6DGW
> - Northern California Contest Club
> - CU in the 50th Running of the Cal QSO Party 3-4 Oct 2015
> - www.cqp.org
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Re: [Elecraft] [ELECRAFT] K3: Help! No output on 80m CW

[Fred Jensen]

On 11/28/2014 6:26 PM, Tom Blahovici wrote:

Hi Antenna is correct,  VOX on, checked cw weight. However, perhaps
it's my Antenna. When I tune with 10w through my kpa500 all is well.
Output is at around 300w. Voice is fine at 500w. However when I try
to send some cw through the terminal program, the KAT500 goes crazy,
has a fault, the kpa500 shows all red in swr and then  stops
transmitting. At that point even if I turn off the amp and clear the
kat500 there is no power out.  It sounds different than when I
transmit on 160. There no clicking no issues. Even at 500 w same
antenna.


Put KAT500 into tune, HOLD Tune on the K3, and let it tune at your tune 
power [>20W].  Then put KAT500 into MAN mode and see what happens.  I 
run MAN all the time, KAT500 doesn't try to tune.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 50th Running of the Cal QSO Party 3-4 Oct 2015
- www.cqp.org
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Re: [Elecraft] [ELECRAFT] K3: Help! No output on 80m CW

[Tom Blahovici]

Hi
Antenna is correct,  VOX on, checked cw weight. However, perhaps it's my 
Antenna. 
When I tune with 10w through my kpa500 all is well. Output is at around 300w. 
Voice is fine at 500w. 
However when I try to send some cw through the terminal program, the KAT500 
goes crazy,  has a fault, the kpa500 shows all red in swr and then  stops 
transmitting. At that point even if I turn off the amp and clear the kat500 
there is no power out.  It sounds different than when I transmit on 160. There 
no clicking no issues. Even at 500 w same antenna.

On Nov 28, 2014 9:23 PM, Fred Jensen  wrote:
>
> On 11/28/2014 5:53 PM, tom...@videotron.ca wrote: 
> > Hi, I'm trying to make some QSO's in the contesdt and I am gettings 0 
> > power output on CW. Works on 160m, 20m but nothing on 80. Any ideas? 
>
> Which antenna is selected? 
>
> 73, 
>
> Fred K6DGW 
> - Northern California Contest Club 
> - CU in the 50th Running of the Cal QSO Party 3-4 Oct 2015 
> - www.cqp.org 
>
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Re: [Elecraft] [ELECRAFT] K3: Help! No output on 80m CW

[Fred Jensen]

On 11/28/2014 5:53 PM, tom...@videotron.ca wrote:

Hi, I'm trying to make some QSO's in the contesdt and I am gettings 0
power output on CW. Works on 160m, 20m but nothing on 80. Any ideas?


Which antenna is selected?

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 50th Running of the Cal QSO Party 3-4 Oct 2015
- www.cqp.org

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[Elecraft] [ELECRAFT] K3: Help! No output on 80m CW

[tomb18]

Hi, I'm trying to make some QSO's in the contesdt and I am gettings 0 power 
output on CW. Works on 160m, 20m but nothing on 80. Any ideas?
Thanks
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[Elecraft] K3 help

[kd9sv]

Gentleman, is there any easy practical way to improve the isolation between
the main antenna input and the RX input of the KXV3  module installed.  I
use my K3 mainly working very weak signals on 160 meters  and the noise
floor using the RX input I feel should be better.  

Thanks, gary, kd9sv

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Help DxLabSuite Commander to K3

[KD7YZ Bob]

iain tapped out:

> Did you set the K3 to 38400 baud too? (CONFIG menu, RS232 = 38400 b)

Yes


W4TV had replied and gave a different setting than I thought I'd read in
the K3 things. Namely, 8N(1) not 2 .. plus setup for RTS to key xmit.

Commander now reads and controls K3 nicely.
Now I am awaiting a K3 cable for the SignaLink-USB which connects to K3.
I prefer the external soundcard so as to isolate Win-7 audio and alerts
for the K3.

> Yes, the KAT500 connects to the K3 ACC port  if you ordered (or
> will build) the interface cable.

H... did I order the cable ... hm .. last heard the KAT500 was
B/O .. surely Dave "suggested" I order the cable ... h Yikes!
-- 
73
KD7YZ Bob

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Help DxLabSuite Commander to K3

[iain macdonnell - N6ML]

Did you set the K3 to 38400 baud too? (CONFIG menu, RS232 = 38400 b)

Yes, the KAT500 connects to the K3 ACC port  if you ordered (or
will build) the interface cable.

73,

~iain / N6ML



On Tue, Nov 13, 2012 at 9:59 AM, KD7YZ Bob  wrote:
> Howdy K3' people:
>
> I had been using "Commander" on my FT-950.
> I just re-read the DxLabSuite pages about Commander and Elecraft.
> Tried RS232 cable from K3 to RS232 on Computer (Win-7-64bit)named as
> COM1 with 38.4-N-1-OFF
> Tried the KXUSB cable from K3-rs232 to USB on Computer, named as COM2
> with 38.4-N-1-off
>
> Tried some variations of above WRT Flow-Control x-on/x-off and so forth.
>
> At no time did 'Commander' read the frequency of K3.
>
> The only control I saw was when I used the Config of Commander to try
> PTT. It did toggle K3 to xmit and back off.
>
> I am guessing I need some different cable.
>
> I'd already ordered the larger ATU (500) but haven't seen it arrive yet.
> Does that connect to the "ACC" conn on back of K3?
>
> Also have three transverters arriving soon. Just wondering if some
> interconnection of these will make the computer wake-up to the fact she
> is supposed to run the K3 so I can sleep.
>
>
>
> --
> 73
> KD7YZ Bob
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Help DxLabSuite Commander to K3

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

Commander works just fine with the K3 out of the box - I've been
doing so with K3 s/n 622 since Commander version 6. something.

Set the K3 serial port to 38,400 (CONFIG:RS232=38400 b) and configure
Commander for 38400,8N2 (at least that works for me).  Set K3 CONFIG:
PTT-KEY= OFF-OFF and Commander's RTS/DTR both to Off (N in the Multi
Radio setup).  Use a standard *straight through* male to female DB9
cable.

If you are not using any other interface, you may set CONFIG:PTT-KEY=
RTS-OFF and Commander's Primary CAT Serial Port RTS to TX (X in the
Multi Radio configuration) - leave DTR *OFF*.

To prevent "PTT hang" also check the "suppress CAT" box in the PTT
area on Commander's General tab.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 11/13/2012 12:59 PM, KD7YZ Bob wrote:
> Howdy K3' people:
>
> I had been using "Commander" on my FT-950.
> I just re-read the DxLabSuite pages about Commander and Elecraft.
> Tried RS232 cable from K3 to RS232 on Computer (Win-7-64bit)named as
> COM1 with 38.4-N-1-OFF
> Tried the KXUSB cable from K3-rs232 to USB on Computer, named as COM2
> with 38.4-N-1-off
>
> Tried some variations of above WRT Flow-Control x-on/x-off and so forth.
>
> At no time did 'Commander' read the frequency of K3.
>
> The only control I saw was when I used the Config of Commander to try
> PTT. It did toggle K3 to xmit and back off.
>
> I am guessing I need some different cable.
>
> I'd already ordered the larger ATU (500) but haven't seen it arrive yet.
> Does that connect to the "ACC" conn on back of K3?
>
> Also have three transverters arriving soon. Just wondering if some
> interconnection of these will make the computer wake-up to the fact she
> is supposed to run the K3 so I can sleep.
>
>
>
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[Elecraft] K3: Help DxLabSuite Commander to K3

[KD7YZ Bob]

Howdy K3' people:

I had been using "Commander" on my FT-950.
I just re-read the DxLabSuite pages about Commander and Elecraft.
Tried RS232 cable from K3 to RS232 on Computer (Win-7-64bit)named as
COM1 with 38.4-N-1-OFF
Tried the KXUSB cable from K3-rs232 to USB on Computer, named as COM2
with 38.4-N-1-off

Tried some variations of above WRT Flow-Control x-on/x-off and so forth.

At no time did 'Commander' read the frequency of K3.

The only control I saw was when I used the Config of Commander to try
PTT. It did toggle K3 to xmit and back off.

I am guessing I need some different cable.

I'd already ordered the larger ATU (500) but haven't seen it arrive yet.
Does that connect to the "ACC" conn on back of K3?

Also have three transverters arriving soon. Just wondering if some
interconnection of these will make the computer wake-up to the fact she
is supposed to run the K3 so I can sleep.



-- 
73
KD7YZ Bob

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - help rtty pro sign "IM" end of xmt

[Bruce Beford]

Dick,

So you are suggesting loading an RTTY memory with just an "IM" to end a
CW-RTTY transmission?  IOW, send your message via the paddle, the recall a
memory to send the "IM"?

 

-Bruce, N1RX

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - help rtty pro sign "IM" end of xmt

[Dick Dievendorff]

Bruce:

Once the memory is loaded with an IM, and the computer is disconnected, you
can punch that memory button to send the IM if you're having trouble sending
it with a paddle. 

A computer connection is required to install IM into a memory. 
No computer connection is required to send IM from that memory.

Dick, K6KR



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Beford
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2012 4:08 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - help rtty pro sign "IM" end of xmt

While this is absolutely true, Dick (K3/KX3 Utility author)- The whole idea
of CW to RTTY is to -not- require a computer. 8-)

The K3 CW keyer routines could use some tweaking in the area of spacing
rigidity. (IMHO)

73 and keep up the great work,
Bruce, N1RX


> You can put this into a CW memory with the K3 or KX3 Utility.  Use the 
> vertical bar character | where you want an IM sent. It has no effect 
> when the memory is sent in CW.

>73 de Dick, K6KR





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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - help rtty pro sign "IM" end of xmt

[Don Wilhelm]

Bruce,

While what you say is true, keep in mind that if the user has 
difficulty, using the K3 Utility to store memory contents is still OK.  
After the memories are stored, no computer is required.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/24/2012 7:08 PM, Bruce Beford wrote:
> While this is absolutely true, Dick (K3/KX3 Utility author)-
> The whole idea of CW to RTTY is to -not- require a computer. 8-)
>
> The K3 CW keyer routines could use some tweaking in the area of spacing
> rigidity. (IMHO)
>
> 73 and keep up the great work,
> Bruce, N1RX
>
>
>> You can put this into a CW memory with the K3 or KX3 Utility.  Use the
>> vertical bar character | where you want an IM sent. It has no effect when
>> the memory is sent in CW.
>> 73 de Dick, K6KR
>
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - help rtty pro sign "IM" end of xmt

[Bruce Beford]

While this is absolutely true, Dick (K3/KX3 Utility author)-
The whole idea of CW to RTTY is to -not- require a computer. 8-)

The K3 CW keyer routines could use some tweaking in the area of spacing
rigidity. (IMHO)

73 and keep up the great work,
Bruce, N1RX


> You can put this into a CW memory with the K3 or KX3 Utility.  Use the
> vertical bar character | where you want an IM sent. It has no effect when
> the memory is sent in CW.

>73 de Dick, K6KR





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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - help rtty pro sign "IM" end of xmt

[Dick Dievendorff]

You can put this into a CW memory with the K3 or KX3 Utility.  Use the
vertical bar character | where you want an IM sent. It has no effect when
the memory is sent in CW.

73 de Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Beford
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2012 3:54 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - help rtty pro sign "IM" end of xmt

Robert, Keep in mind that it IS a prosign. That is, it should be sent with
NO SPACING between the "I" and the "M" So, di-di-dah-dah with NO SPACING.
The K3 internal CW keyer is not very forgiving in this regard. I think many
people who have reported difficulty recording the CW memories from the
paddle can attest to this.

GL es 73,
Bruce, N1RX



> I have tried sending this pro-sign with all variations of speed, 
> spacing, etc. However, it's very hit and miss. Most of the time the 
> transmission times out on its own. Every now and then, randomly it seems,
the "im"
> works and the transmission ends immediately. Most of the time, no. Any 
> suggestions? Thanks.



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - help rtty pro sign "IM" end of xmt

[Bruce Beford]

Robert, Keep in mind that it IS a prosign. That is, it should be sent with
NO SPACING between the "I" and the "M" So, di-di-dah-dah with NO SPACING.
The K3 internal CW keyer is not very forgiving in this regard. I think many
people who have reported difficulty recording the CW memories from the
paddle can attest to this.

GL es 73,
Bruce, N1RX



> I have tried sending this pro-sign with all variations of speed, spacing,
> etc. However, it's very hit and miss. Most of the time the transmission 
> times out on its own. Every now and then, randomly it seems, the "im" 
> works and the transmission ends immediately. Most of the time, no. Any 
> suggestions? Thanks.



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[Elecraft] K3 - help rtty pro sign "IM" end of xmt

[Robert G. Strickland]

Hello...
I asked this a bit ago, but have lost that particular email. I'm new to digital 
modes, and I'm trying to use the K3 cw-rtty ability to see what's out there. I 
know 
that the pro-sign "im" ends a transmission. I have tried sending this pro-sign 
with 
all variations of speed, spacing, etc. However, it's very hit and miss. Most of 
the 
time the transmission times out on its own. Every now and then, randomly it 
seems, 
the "im" works and the transmission ends immediately. Most of the time, no. Any 
suggestions? Thanks.
...robert
-- 
Robert G. Strickland, PhD, ABPH - KE2WY
rc...@verizon.net
Syracuse, New York, USA
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[Elecraft] K3 Help with SSB+CW on 6 meters

[Mike K2MK]

I could use a little help on using the SSB+CW feature of CONFIG:CW WGHT. I
tapped "1" and I am able to send CW while in USB. I don't fully understand
the offset explanation of the "5" button. Then there is a suggestion to use
REV CW but if I'm in USB pressing ALT will change me to LSB. Should I have
previously gone to CW mode and pressed ALT prior to going to USB. 

73,
Mike K2MK



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 HELP

[Dick Dievendorff]

See K3 Utility Help, Troubleshooting, MCU Load failure

73 de Dick, K6KR


Sent from my iPad

On May 11, 2012, at 8:40 AM, "Phil LaMarche"  wrote:

> Attempted to download new version and the utility wouldn't connect to K3.
> Tried to turn off but only MCU LD showed in the window. Removed the 13 volts
> and then turned back on and the MCU LD is greyed in the window and the TX
> Red Light is flashing.  Frozen.  Any help on what to do next?
> 
> 
> 
> Phil
> 
> 
> 
> Philip LaMarche
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 727-944-3226
> 
> 727-510-5038 Cell 
> 
>   www.w9dvm.com
> 
>  WWW.FLAMGROUP.COM
> 
> 
> 
> K3 # 1605
> 
> KPA500 # 029
> 
> P3 #1480
> 
> 
> 
> CCA 98-00827
> 
> CRA 1701
> 
> W9DVM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 HELP

[Bill K9YEQ]

See page 66 of the owner's manual.  Hopefully you have saved your settings.
The manual cautions against shutting off by removing power as you go through
the process.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil LaMarche
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2012 10:40 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 HELP

Attempted to download new version and the utility wouldn't connect to K3.
Tried to turn off but only MCU LD showed in the window. Removed the 13 volts
and then turned back on and the MCU LD is greyed in the window and the TX
Red Light is flashing.  Frozen.  Any help on what to do next?

 

Phil

 

Philip LaMarche

 

 

727-944-3226

727-510-5038 Cell 

  <http://www.w9dvm.com/> www.w9dvm.com

 <http://WWW.FLAMGROUP.COM> WWW.FLAMGROUP.COM

 

K3 # 1605

KPA500 # 029

P3 #1480

 

 CCA 98-00827

CRA 1701

W9DVM

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 HELP

[Ken K3IU]

Check the Troubleshooting Section of the K3 Utility Help file.
73, Ken K3IU

On 5/11/2012 11:40 AM, Phil LaMarche wrote:
> Attempted to download new version and the utility wouldn't connect to K3.
> Tried to turn off but only MCU LD showed in the window. Removed the 13 volts
> and then turned back on and the MCU LD is greyed in the window and the TX
> Red Light is flashing.  Frozen.  Any help on what to do next?
>
>
>
> Phil
>
>
>
> Philip LaMarche
>
>
>
>
>
> 727-944-3226
>
> 727-510-5038 Cell
>
>  www.w9dvm.com
>
>     WWW.FLAMGROUP.COM
>
>
>
> K3 # 1605
>
> KPA500 # 029
>
> P3 #1480
>
>
>
>   CCA 98-00827
>
> CRA 1701
>
> W9DVM
>
>
>
>
>
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 HELP

[Monty Shultes]

Phil,

Have you had a local lightning store recently?

Monty K2DLJ

On May 11, 2012, at 11:40 AM, Phil LaMarche wrote:

> Attempted to download new version and the utility wouldn't connect to K3.
> Tried to turn off but only MCU LD showed in the window. Removed the 13 volts
> and then turned back on and the MCU LD is greyed in the window and the TX
> Red Light is flashing.  Frozen.  Any help on what to do next?
> 
> 
> 
> Phil
> 
> 
> 
> Philip LaMarche
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 727-944-3226
> 
> 727-510-5038 Cell 
> 
>   www.w9dvm.com
> 
>  WWW.FLAMGROUP.COM
> 
> 
> 
> K3 # 1605
> 
> KPA500 # 029
> 
> P3 #1480
> 
> 
> 
> CCA 98-00827
> 
> CRA 1701
> 
> W9DVM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
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[Elecraft] K3 HELP

[Phil LaMarche]

Attempted to download new version and the utility wouldn't connect to K3.
Tried to turn off but only MCU LD showed in the window. Removed the 13 volts
and then turned back on and the MCU LD is greyed in the window and the TX
Red Light is flashing.  Frozen.  Any help on what to do next?

 

Phil

 

Philip LaMarche

 

 

727-944-3226

727-510-5038 Cell 

   www.w9dvm.com

  WWW.FLAMGROUP.COM

 

K3 # 1605

KPA500 # 029

P3 #1480

 

 CCA 98-00827

CRA 1701

W9DVM

 

 

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[Elecraft] K3 HELP!

[Phil LaMarche]

Switching bands and the audio came to full volume.  S meter all the way to
the right.  Turned RF gain down to be hearable.  As I change frequency I can
hear actual freq and back ground chatter that stays with moving freq.  

 

 

Phil

 

Philip LaMarche

 

LaMarche Enterprises, Inc

  p...@lamarcheenterprises.com

  www.LaMarcheEnterprises.com 

 

727-944-3226

727-937-8834 Fax

727-510-5038 Cell 

 

  www.w9dvm.com

 

K3 #1605

 

CCA 98-00827

CRA 1701

W9DVM

 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Help Needed in Chicago Area

[Chuck Teeter KE9CE]

Hi, Mike:

Thanks for the suggestion.  Actually, I had done that, and I've done it
again just to play safe.

73,
Chuck KE9CE
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Help Needed in Chicago Area

[N8XPQ]

Chuck,
 
Have you made sure that your synthesizer has been configured properly? The
instructions for this can be found on page 49 in the owners manual.

Synthesizer
This procedure is normally done at assembly time
or by the factory.
• Hold CONFIG and find the CONFIG:VCO
MD menu entry. Set the parameter fully
clockwise to CAL. Exit the menu. The
synthesizer will be tested and calibrated.
• To calibrate the 2nd synthesizer (for the sub
receiver), locate CONFIG:VCO MD and set
the parameter to CAL, tap SUB to turn on the
SUB icon, then exit the menu.

Possibly this may help.

Good luck,

Mike N8XPQ
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Help Needed in Chicago Area

[Paul A DeFelice]

Chuck,

Let me know if you need any help. I'm in Somonauk but I get over to Joliet
at least once a week.

 

73,

Paul K9NU

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Help Needed in Chicago Area

[Chuck Teeter KE9CE]

I had a wonderful tech support session with Dale at Elecraft, and we
determined that the receiver appears to be functioning properly.  I've also
discovered that there may be a defect with my antenna, so I'm returning that
for exchange.  Hopefully, after I get the new antenna and get it in the air,
I'll be able to finish the oscillator configuration.  In the meantime, I'm
going to install the 100Watt amplifier, run the 50Watt test, and finish all
the other odds and ends, including doing some things online.  Thanks for
your help.  Of course, if there is a ham in the area who would let me
connect at his shack, I would really appreciate it.

Best,
Chuck KE9CE
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Help Needed in Chicago Area

[WILLIS COOKE]

I had the same problem two years ago, Chuck.  I spent a good bit of time with 
Gary checking things and ended up sending my K3 to Aptos.  Rene looked at it 
and had it going in a very short time.  I had spent a lot of time trying to 
tune things and had things pretty messed up.  My serial number is 1025.  Maybe 
Gary or Rene will remember what they found and be able to help you.  I still 
don't know where I went wrong but Rene said there was nothing wrong with the 
assembly or any of the parts.  Good luck!
 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ 





From: Charles Teeter 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Mon, June 7, 2010 11:36:02 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 - Help Needed in Chicago Area

Hello:

I¹m in the process of assembling my K3, and I¹ve run into a problem trying
to configure the reference oscillator.  For some reason, I¹m unable to
receive any kind of signal at all.  I have a windom antenna that I plan to
erect, but at the moment, I just have have it connected to the radio and
then spread out in my shack over bookcases and windows, etc.  I probably
have about 20 ­ 25¹ spread out.  Still, I¹m not receiving anything.  I¹d
like to ask if there is a K3 owner in the Chicago area who could either
allow me to bring my radio there, connect to his antenna, and try to do the
configuration or someone nearby, perhaps with a 40M dipole who could arrange
to broadcast a signal at a specific time, etc.  Ideally, I¹d like to bring
my rig to your shack and try to configure there.  I need to be able to
receive WWV, and I need to be sure that my receiver is functioning properly
before I install the 100Watt amplifier and the fans.  Thanks.

73,
Chuck KE9CE
K3 #4073

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[Elecraft] K3 - Help Needed in Chicago Area

[Charles Teeter]

Hello:

I¹m in the process of assembling my K3, and I¹ve run into a problem trying
to configure the reference oscillator.  For some reason, I¹m unable to
receive any kind of signal at all.  I have a windom antenna that I plan to
erect, but at the moment, I just have have it connected to the radio and
then spread out in my shack over bookcases and windows, etc.  I probably
have about 20 ­ 25¹ spread out.  Still, I¹m not receiving anything.  I¹d
like to ask if there is a K3 owner in the Chicago area who could either
allow me to bring my radio there, connect to his antenna, and try to do the
configuration or someone nearby, perhaps with a 40M dipole who could arrange
to broadcast a signal at a specific time, etc.  Ideally, I¹d like to bring
my rig to your shack and try to configure there.  I need to be able to
receive WWV, and I need to be sure that my receiver is functioning properly
before I install the 100Watt amplifier and the fans.  Thanks.

73,
Chuck KE9CE
K3 #4073

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3} Help, hex key for split knob

[ab2tc]

Hi all,

I can't believe all the messages my original post created. Well, today I
swung by the local Home Depot and invested in a 13 piece inch kit that
promised to include the 0.050" one. I am sure I will never use the 3/8" one,
but I could use a new inch kit anyway. It came with a nice yellow plastic
holder to hang on my tool wall. I had no problem putting the knob on, no
excessive friction or tendency of the tool to slip. Just finger tightened it
(them) and don't expect any problem with that one for years to come. Don't
know what all the fuss is about.

AB2TC - Knut


W8JI wrote:
> 
> Knowing the problem we had on assembly lines with small 
> screws... :-)
> 
> 73 Tom
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Don Wilhelm" 
> To: "Jack Brabham" 
> Cc: "'elecraft@mailman.qth.net'" 
> Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 6:38 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3} Help, hex key for split knob
> 
> 
>> Jack,
>>
>> If you stripped out the allen wrench, you were applying 
>> more force than
>> is necessary, and excessive force may be the reason some 
>> of the newer
>> knobs are cracking (that is just a guess).
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
> 
> 

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-Help-hex-key-for-split-knob-tp5024310p5048899.html
Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3} Help, hex key for split knob

[Jack Brabham]

Tom,

Great link, thanks for digging that one up.

So far my concentric knobs haven't split and are staying on the radio, and
so I'm content to leave well enough alone.  

I was mostly grousing about the time and aggravation involved in mounting
them due to the set screw threading issues with the plastic knobs and cheap
allen wrench.

If they ever have to come off or eventually split I'll get better set screws
before replacing them...or look around for a set of better quality knobs.

 
73 Jack KZ5A


-Original Message-
From: Tom W8JI [mailto:w...@w8ji.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 2010 5:36 PM
To: Jack Brabham; d...@w3fpr.com; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3} Help, hex key for split knob

Here's a link I just found

http://www.radax.com/store.asp?pid=15198

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3} Help, hex key for split knob

[Tom W8JI]

Here's a link I just found

http://www.radax.com/store.asp?pid=15198

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3} Help, hex key for split knob

[Tom W8JI]

> The "pinky" tight approach is OK if you are working with a 
> "D" shaft that
> provides positive indexing.  Otherwise, as in the round 
> shaft K3 concentric
> pots, the set screw has to be very tight to maintain the 
> knob indexing.

Jack,

We used tens of thousands of knobs at Prime, Heathkit, and 
other places. Plastic knobs without inserts were generally 
OK except for rare cases. All-plastic knobs without inserts 
historically have been used in everything from TV's and 
radios to cars and everything else around us.

The set screws in my K3's knobs are a cup point style. That 
is not a good holding screw, but it should be OK for a small 
knob if the shaft isn't too hard. It would be great on 
plastic shafts, or even a very soft metal. It is not a screw 
of preference for a plastic knob, especially on a hard 
shaft. Since the knob is pretty well set in one place and 
not frequently removed, and since it is a plastic knob 
without a metal insert and tight clearances, it should 
probably be a sharp pointed setscrew like a cone point.

It would take very minimal torque to securely lock a sharp 
cone point.

Cupped screws mainly lock on the raised edges that run 
parallel with the circumference of the shaft. This means 
they "slip" with the sharp edge in line with the force, like 
a saw cutting across a round shaft. They also spread the 
pressure over a larger area. This all means a great deal 
less holding power, especially with  hard shaft.

A cone pointed screw would put all the pressure on a needle 
point, and even with a hard shaft dig in pretty deep with 
minimal pressure. They are far better on non-insert knobs. 
With metal insert knobs they could make it difficult to 
remove the knob because they would divot the metal and not 
allow easy removal, so a cone point or even flat point and 
higher torque is better with a insert knob.

The problem is the screw has to turn freely, has to have the 
right tip, and can't be torqued down on. It really should 
just take "pinky pressure" or less. This isn't the rear 
axle-shaft nut in a 1960's Chrysler or AMC, it is a tiny 
knob on an easy to turn shaft.

73 Tom


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3} Help, hex key for split knob

[drewko]

Out of curiosity reading this thread I just removed the knobs on my K3
for the first time since they were installed nearly two years ago. The
screws came out easily after the initial stiction was overcome;
Twirling the wrench between thumb and index finger is all that is
required to drive the screws through the knob. I doubt that even the
ceapest 0.05 allen wrench would have a problem loosening them, yet the
knobs have remained firmly in place for all this time.

The "loose" threads on mine make it easy to adjust the screw tightness
by feel. I suppose this would not be the case if the threads were very
tight. In that case I would adjust the screws by sight initially then
cinch them up a bit against the shafts.

If someone is having a problem with the knobs coming loose or
cracking, I'd suggest inserting a small "dot" of neoprene-cork gasket
material into the threaded hole between the shaft and the screw. The
friction will keep the knob on the shaft while the soft seat will
perhaps reduce the chance of overtightening and cracking. (I do this
for the speed weight on my bug to avoid having to apply a lot of
torque to the setscrew; it is very easy to adjust by feel yet holds
the weight snugly in place on the pendulum shaft.)

73,
Drew
AF2Z




On Wed, 12 May 2010 10:29:03 -0500, you wrote:

>Don,
>
>Wrong answer, guess again.
>
>The kit supplied allen wrench strips because it is a cheap, low quality tool
>that can not support the required torque.  The required torque is higher
>than necessary because of the overly tight, tapered, and/or incomplete
>threading of the set screw hole in the knobs.
>
>The concentric knobs are undoubtedly splitting because they are plastic
>knobs that have the set screw threaded directly into the plastic.  That
>design is a non-starter from a quality perspective and is bound to fail in
>one way or another, sooner or later. 
>  
>The engineering dilemma with an all plastic knob is that if the set screw
>threading isn't tight the set screw will strip out the plastic threads
>before achieving enough force to secure the knob to the shaft.  On the flip
>side if the threading is tight enough to allow securing the knob, it is also
>tight enough to tend to split the plastic around the set screw hole via
>radial pressure when torqued.  
>
>This is why quality knobs are either all metal or have metal inserts for the
>set screws.
>
>Being an old gunsmith, I'm not intimidated by slotted screws and wouldn't
>hesitate to swap out the allen drive set screws with slotted ones, and
>probably will if these knobs ever need to be removed.  I realize that this
>is a good solution only if one actually knows how to properly fit and
>operate a slotted screw driver.
>
>The "pinky" tight approach is OK if you are working with a "D" shaft that
>provides positive indexing.  Otherwise, as in the round shaft K3 concentric
>pots, the set screw has to be very tight to maintain the knob indexing.  
>
>
>73 Jack KZ5A
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3} Help, hex key for split knob

[Jack Brabham]

Don,

Wrong answer, guess again.

The kit supplied allen wrench strips because it is a cheap, low quality tool
that can not support the required torque.  The required torque is higher
than necessary because of the overly tight, tapered, and/or incomplete
threading of the set screw hole in the knobs.

The concentric knobs are undoubtedly splitting because they are plastic
knobs that have the set screw threaded directly into the plastic.  That
design is a non-starter from a quality perspective and is bound to fail in
one way or another, sooner or later. 
  
The engineering dilemma with an all plastic knob is that if the set screw
threading isn't tight the set screw will strip out the plastic threads
before achieving enough force to secure the knob to the shaft.  On the flip
side if the threading is tight enough to allow securing the knob, it is also
tight enough to tend to split the plastic around the set screw hole via
radial pressure when torqued.  

This is why quality knobs are either all metal or have metal inserts for the
set screws.

Being an old gunsmith, I'm not intimidated by slotted screws and wouldn't
hesitate to swap out the allen drive set screws with slotted ones, and
probably will if these knobs ever need to be removed.  I realize that this
is a good solution only if one actually knows how to properly fit and
operate a slotted screw driver.

The "pinky" tight approach is OK if you are working with a "D" shaft that
provides positive indexing.  Otherwise, as in the round shaft K3 concentric
pots, the set screw has to be very tight to maintain the knob indexing.  


73 Jack KZ5A


-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 5:39 PM
To: Jack Brabham
Cc: 'elecraft@mailman.qth.net'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3} Help, hex key for split knob

Jack,

If you stripped out the allen wrench, you were applying more force than 
is necessary, and excessive force may be the reason some of the newer 
knobs are cracking (that is just a guess).

73,
Don W3FPR

Jack Brabham wrote:
> Tim,
>
> I had a similar experience assembling #4169 a few weeks ago.
Unfortunately
> my stack of assorted allen wrenches didn't include any that small.
>
> My work around was to grind off the "stripped" portion of the cheesy allen
> wrench each time it stripped.  
>   
>   

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3} Help, hex key for split knob

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

My personal rule for torque-wrenching small allen screws (once I know
threads are clear) is "pinky pressure".

I turn the allen wrench until it *just barely* runs into resistance.
Then I put my pinky on the wrench and let some of the weight of my
forearm (no pushing) tighten it up.  Should not ever be stripping
allen wrenches in K3 RF/AF knobs.

The replacement knobs I got for the flawed early batch that came with
my K3 have been just fine.

73, Guy.


On Tue, May 11, 2010 at 8:21 PM, Tom W8JI  wrote:
>
>> My experiences are different.  For small knobs you need to
>> use high
>> quality wrenches.  Those .050 do work if you have a good
>> one.  It's
>> amazing how much twist you can put in a high quality Allen
>> wrench
>> while trying to deal with a stubborn screw.
>
> I would not ever force the screw. That is just asking for
> problems.
>
> Off the shaft and on the table, run it in until it resists
> turning and then back out. Do that several times cleaning
> the threads out.
>
>
>> As an old-timer I dealt with many a slotted set screw.
>> Nothing but
>> headaches.
>
> No truer words were ever spoken!!! The last thing I would
> want is phillips, and then second last would be slotted
> screws.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3} Help, hex key for split knob

[Tom W8JI]

> My experiences are different.  For small knobs you need to 
> use high
> quality wrenches.  Those .050 do work if you have a good 
> one.  It's
> amazing how much twist you can put in a high quality Allen 
> wrench
> while trying to deal with a stubborn screw.

I would not ever force the screw. That is just asking for 
problems.

Off the shaft and on the table, run it in until it resists 
turning and then back out. Do that several times cleaning 
the threads out.


> As an old-timer I dealt with many a slotted set screw. 
> Nothing but
> headaches.

No truer words were ever spoken!!! The last thing I would 
want is phillips, and then second last would be slotted 
screws. 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3} Help, hex key for split knob

[Tom W8JI]

Knowing the problem we had on assembly lines with small 
screws... :-)

73 Tom
- Original Message - 
From: "Don Wilhelm" 
To: "Jack Brabham" 
Cc: "'elecraft@mailman.qth.net'" 
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 6:38 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3} Help, hex key for split knob


> Jack,
>
> If you stripped out the allen wrench, you were applying 
> more force than
> is necessary, and excessive force may be the reason some 
> of the newer
> knobs are cracking (that is just a guess).
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> Jack Brabham wrote:
>> Tim,
>>
>> I had a similar experience assembling #4169 a few weeks 
>> ago.  Unfortunately
>> my stack of assorted allen wrenches didn't include any 
>> that small.
>>
>> My work around was to grind off the "stripped" portion of 
>> the cheesy allen
>> wrench each time it stripped.
>>
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3} Help, hex key for split knob

[Don Wilhelm]

Jack,

If you stripped out the allen wrench, you were applying more force than 
is necessary, and excessive force may be the reason some of the newer 
knobs are cracking (that is just a guess).

73,
Don W3FPR

Jack Brabham wrote:
> Tim,
>
> I had a similar experience assembling #4169 a few weeks ago.  Unfortunately
> my stack of assorted allen wrenches didn't include any that small.
>
> My work around was to grind off the "stripped" portion of the cheesy allen
> wrench each time it stripped.  
>   
>   
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3} Help, hex key for split knob

[David Christ]

My experiences are different.  For small knobs you need to use high 
quality wrenches.  Those .050 do work if you have a good one.  It's 
amazing how much twist you can put in a high quality Allen wrench 
while trying to deal with a stubborn screw.  The next thing is to 
make sure that you have them inserted all the way into the set screw. 
That sometimes takes a bit of wiggling and pushing.  Unfortunately, 
there is the possibility of a damaged screw if it wasn't done right 
before.

As an old-timer I dealt with many a slotted set screw.  Nothing but 
headaches.  Good small bladed screwdrivers are much harder to find 
than good small Allen wrenches.  My favorite is the Bristol (splined) 
design.  http://www.bristolwrench.com/  Collins used them a lot. 
Every now and then I think about replacing all my radio setscrews 
with Bristol style but have not yet found a reasonable source for 
them.

David K0LUM


At 1:25 PM -0500 5/11/10, Jack Brabham wrote:
>Tim,
>
>I had a similar experience assembling #4169 a few weeks ago.  Unfortunately
>my stack of assorted allen wrenches didn't include any that small.
>
>My work around was to grind off the "stripped" portion of the cheesy allen
>wrench each time it stripped. 
>
>It only took about two hours and several wrench grindings to mount the two
>split knobs, which was really the only PITA encountered during the assembly.
>The allen wrench was much smaller when I finished.
>
>I suspect that a plain old slotted head screw would be more practical in
>this application due to being able to apply torque over the screw's full
>diameter.
>
>73 Jack KZ5A

-- 
Education should be an accumulation of understanding, not just an 
accumulation of facts.
Dr. David M. Pozar
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3} Help, hex key for split knob

[Jack Brabham]

Tim,

I had a similar experience assembling #4169 a few weeks ago.  Unfortunately
my stack of assorted allen wrenches didn't include any that small.

My work around was to grind off the "stripped" portion of the cheesy allen
wrench each time it stripped.  

It only took about two hours and several wrench grindings to mount the two
split knobs, which was really the only PITA encountered during the assembly.
The allen wrench was much smaller when I finished.

I suspect that a plain old slotted head screw would be more practical in
this application due to being able to apply torque over the screw's full
diameter.

73 Jack KZ5A

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of N3XX
Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2010 8:45 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3} Help, hex key for split knob

Hi to all,

I just completed assembly of K3 #4175 a couple of weeks ago.  When 
installing the knobs I had a problem with both sizes of allen wrench 
provided in the kit.  For both size knobs, they would slip inside of the 
allen screw as it started to get tight.  I don't know what the actual size 
should be, but ended up going into the box of allen wrenches I have saved 
over the years and using sizes that fit better, allowing me to tighten the 
screws.  Sorry, I don't have the actual sizes needed, since I just found 
what fit better and put them back into the box after I was finished.  I 
don't think there was actually any marking I could see anyway.

73,
Tim - N3XX

- Original Message - 
From: "David Dunn" 
To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2010 4:47 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3} Help, hex key for split knob


>I cannot imagine it would be hard to buy imperial measure Allen keys in USA
> !
> Even in VK land where "standards" of measure are very dubious. (officially
> all metric)  Our signposts in Kilometres, goods sold by the Kilogram,
> Timber by the metre,  - but they still talk about 4 x 2's and 6 x 8 ft
> sheets of chipboard.
> Now, go in the ironmongers for nuts and bolts and the odds are you will 
> find
> them with BSW threads,a size now very difficult to get in England 
> where
> they originated!
> I wonder why Elecraft used  "inch" measure Allen screws??  when all the
> other threads in the K3 are metric.- Perhaps they had similar problems!
>
> 73 to all from David VK3DBD
>
> On Sat, May 8, 2010 at 10:35 PM, Mike  wrote:
>
>> If you can't find it at the hardware boutique, if there's a hobby shop
>> close, try that. I'd take the knob with me.
>>
>> 73,
>> Mike NF4L
>> ab2tc wrote:
>> > Hi all,
>> >
>> > I guess I"ll be heading out to the hardware store for a 0.050" or 
>> > 1.27mm
>> > allen wrench tomorrow. My radio was a kit originally, but I bought it 
>> > 2nd
>> > hand from the builder and may not have recieved the allen key.
>> >
>> > AB2TC - Knut
>> >
>> >
>> > N1JM wrote:
>> >
>> >> If yours was a kit, you should of got one with it. However, I suspect
>> you
>> >> could get one from Elecraft. The small knobs use a .050" and the large
>> >> knobs take 5/64" allen wrench.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3} Help, hex key for split knob

[Don Wilhelm]

David Dunn wrote:
> I wonder why Elecraft used  "inch" measure Allen screws??  when all the
> other threads in the K3 are metric.- Perhaps they had similar problems!
>
>   
I am not certain why you think the other threads are metric in the K3 - 
most of the screws are 4-40 which are not a metric size.
The K3 threads are "All American" :-) as far as I know.

Son W3FPR
 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3} Help, hex key for split knob

[N3XX]

Hi to all,

I just completed assembly of K3 #4175 a couple of weeks ago.  When 
installing the knobs I had a problem with both sizes of allen wrench 
provided in the kit.  For both size knobs, they would slip inside of the 
allen screw as it started to get tight.  I don't know what the actual size 
should be, but ended up going into the box of allen wrenches I have saved 
over the years and using sizes that fit better, allowing me to tighten the 
screws.  Sorry, I don't have the actual sizes needed, since I just found 
what fit better and put them back into the box after I was finished.  I 
don't think there was actually any marking I could see anyway.

73,
Tim - N3XX

- Original Message - 
From: "David Dunn" 
To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2010 4:47 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3} Help, hex key for split knob


>I cannot imagine it would be hard to buy imperial measure Allen keys in USA
> !
> Even in VK land where "standards" of measure are very dubious. (officially
> all metric)  Our signposts in Kilometres, goods sold by the Kilogram,
> Timber by the metre,  - but they still talk about 4 x 2's and 6 x 8 ft
> sheets of chipboard.
> Now, go in the ironmongers for nuts and bolts and the odds are you will 
> find
> them with BSW threads,a size now very difficult to get in England 
> where
> they originated!
> I wonder why Elecraft used  "inch" measure Allen screws??  when all the
> other threads in the K3 are metric.- Perhaps they had similar problems!
>
> 73 to all from David VK3DBD
>
> On Sat, May 8, 2010 at 10:35 PM, Mike  wrote:
>
>> If you can't find it at the hardware boutique, if there's a hobby shop
>> close, try that. I'd take the knob with me.
>>
>> 73,
>> Mike NF4L
>> ab2tc wrote:
>> > Hi all,
>> >
>> > I guess I"ll be heading out to the hardware store for a 0.050" or 
>> > 1.27mm
>> > allen wrench tomorrow. My radio was a kit originally, but I bought it 
>> > 2nd
>> > hand from the builder and may not have recieved the allen key.
>> >
>> > AB2TC - Knut
>> >
>> >
>> > N1JM wrote:
>> >
>> >> If yours was a kit, you should of got one with it. However, I suspect
>> you
>> >> could get one from Elecraft. The small knobs use a .050" and the large
>> >> knobs take 5/64" allen wrench.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3} Help, hex key for split knob

[David Dunn]

I cannot imagine it would be hard to buy imperial measure Allen keys in USA
!
Even in VK land where "standards" of measure are very dubious. (officially
all metric)  Our signposts in Kilometres, goods sold by the Kilogram,
Timber by the metre,  - but they still talk about 4 x 2's and 6 x 8 ft
sheets of chipboard.
Now, go in the ironmongers for nuts and bolts and the odds are you will find
them with BSW threads,a size now very difficult to get in England where
they originated!
I wonder why Elecraft used  "inch" measure Allen screws??  when all the
other threads in the K3 are metric.- Perhaps they had similar problems!

73 to all from David VK3DBD

On Sat, May 8, 2010 at 10:35 PM, Mike  wrote:

> If you can't find it at the hardware boutique, if there's a hobby shop
> close, try that. I'd take the knob with me.
>
> 73,
> Mike NF4L
> ab2tc wrote:
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I guess I"ll be heading out to the hardware store for a 0.050" or 1.27mm
> > allen wrench tomorrow. My radio was a kit originally, but I bought it 2nd
> > hand from the builder and may not have recieved the allen key.
> >
> > AB2TC - Knut
> >
> >
> > N1JM wrote:
> >
> >> If yours was a kit, you should of got one with it. However, I suspect
> you
> >> could get one from Elecraft. The small knobs use a .050" and the large
> >> knobs take 5/64" allen wrench.
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3} Help, hex key for split knob

[Mike]

If you can't find it at the hardware boutique, if there's a hobby shop 
close, try that. I'd take the knob with me.

73,
Mike NF4L
ab2tc wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I guess I"ll be heading out to the hardware store for a 0.050" or 1.27mm
> allen wrench tomorrow. My radio was a kit originally, but I bought it 2nd
> hand from the builder and may not have recieved the allen key. 
>
> AB2TC - Knut
>
>
> N1JM wrote:
>   
>> If yours was a kit, you should of got one with it. However, I suspect you
>> could get one from Elecraft. The small knobs use a .050" and the large
>> knobs take 5/64" allen wrench.
>>
>> 
>
>   


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3} Help, hex key for split knob

[ab2tc]

Hi all,

I guess I"ll be heading out to the hardware store for a 0.050" or 1.27mm
allen wrench tomorrow. My radio was a kit originally, but I bought it 2nd
hand from the builder and may not have recieved the allen key. 

AB2TC - Knut


N1JM wrote:
> 
> If yours was a kit, you should of got one with it. However, I suspect you
> could get one from Elecraft. The small knobs use a .050" and the large
> knobs take 5/64" allen wrench.
> 

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[Elecraft] [K3} Help, hex key for split knob

[Ken Kopp]

 Knut,

Any hardware store worth the name would have it.
 
 NAPA or virtually any auto parts supply store.
 
 Sears
 
 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
 


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3} Help, hex key for split knob

[N1JM]

If yours was a kit, you should of got one with it. However, I suspect you
could get one from Elecraft. The small knobs use a .050" and the large knobs
take 5/64" allen wrench.
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[Elecraft] [K3} Help, hex key for split knob

[ab2tc]

Hi all,

My RF gain knob finally did the inevitable, it split and fell off. I had
seen the crack and expected this so I have a full set of concentric knobs on
hand supplied free by Elecraft. But they did not supply a hex key and I
don't have one that is small enough! My smallest metric one is 1.5mm and is
too big. My smallest inch one is 5/64" which is close to 2mm and of course
way too big. What is the size required and how do I go about acquiring it?

AB2TC - Knut
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Help on sending RTTY (or PSK) using Utility

[Robin Diane Goldstein]

hi Iian...  thanks for the advice...  it was spot on!

after checking the operating mode i was able to operate my K3 in both 
PSK and RTTY mode...  in fact, last night i even managed an RTTY QSO 
w/ ZL30MDG on 30m using only 35watts (i've been using my HPS-1a 
supply and it won't handle the duty rate of data modes at anything 
higher than about 40w)

so thanks to you, my first RTTY QSO, my first 30m QSO and my first 
low(er) power DX QSO!

73
robin (W6RDG)
http://www.W6RDG.com

At 1:32 PM -0700 10/17/09, Iain MacDonnell - N6ML wrote:
>On Sat, Oct 17, 2009 at 12:33 PM, Robin Diane Goldstein
> wrote:
>>  hi... a real newbie question... i'm trying to figure out how to send
>>  RTTY (or PSK) using the latest windows version of the K3 utility.
>>  i've got a laptop running Win XP connected to my K3 (with the latest
>>  beta firmware) and if i turn on the decode function i can see text
>>  scrolling in the Terminal box of the utility program (properly
>>  decoded RTTY as a matter of fact).  but if i type something into the
>>  bottom box and hit transmit (or cntl t or whathaveyou) i don't seem
>>  to be able to get my K3 to transmit.
>>
>>  i'm guessing i'm missing something obvious.
>
>Make sure you're in the "FSK D" data sub-mode. Do this by holding the
>"AFX" button, then turn the VFO B knob until you see "FSK D". If
>you're in "AFSK A" mode, you'll be able to decode RTTY, but not able
>to send with the K3 Utility.
>
> ~Iain / N6ML

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[Elecraft] K3: Help with K3 and Softrock IF - Poor audio using PSDR/IF as panadapter

[Lawrence Libsch]

   When running PowerSDR/IF as a panadapter with my Softrock IF, I am 
unable to get the audio out of my soundcard to sound right. It sounds as though 
I am tuned either off frequency on the low side or off frequency on the high 
side. The complete setup is: K3 without mod for IF for LP Pan, Z1 buffer 
amp set up for K3, EM 0202 USB, Lenovo T61 laptop running WIN XP Pro SP2, LP 
Bridge v 0.9.86, Power SDR/IF v 0.92.

 

I see a good trace on the PSDR panadapter. When I tune to a 20  m 
sideband frequency where there is a signal, and listen to both the K3 speaker 
audio and the EMU audio from headphones plugged into the headphone speaker 
jack, the signals I hear from the EMU are clearly the same audio as from the K3 
on that frequency. But they aren't clear. I can't copy them. The EMU sounds 
like it is mis-tuned. I have carefully adjusted the Global frequency offset so 
that the frequency peak of WWV at 15 Mhz falls precisely at 15 Mhz on the 
zoomed panadapter trace. I have tried changing the global frequency offset both 
up and down. This does not correct the problem. 

 

Help please.

 


Larry,   K4KGG
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Help on sending RTTY (or PSK) using Utility

[Iain MacDonnell - N6ML]

On Sat, Oct 17, 2009 at 12:33 PM, Robin Diane Goldstein
 wrote:
> hi... a real newbie question... i'm trying to figure out how to send
> RTTY (or PSK) using the latest windows version of the K3 utility.
> i've got a laptop running Win XP connected to my K3 (with the latest
> beta firmware) and if i turn on the decode function i can see text
> scrolling in the Terminal box of the utility program (properly
> decoded RTTY as a matter of fact).  but if i type something into the
> bottom box and hit transmit (or cntl t or whathaveyou) i don't seem
> to be able to get my K3 to transmit.
>
> i'm guessing i'm missing something obvious.

Make sure you're in the "FSK D" data sub-mode. Do this by holding the
"AFX" button, then turn the VFO B knob until you see "FSK D". If
you're in "AFSK A" mode, you'll be able to decode RTTY, but not able
to send with the K3 Utility.

~Iain / N6ML
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Help on sending RTTY (or PSK) using Utility

[Robin Diane Goldstein]

hi... a real newbie question... i'm trying to figure out how to send 
RTTY (or PSK) using the latest windows version of the K3 utility. 
i've got a laptop running Win XP connected to my K3 (with the latest 
beta firmware) and if i turn on the decode function i can see text 
scrolling in the Terminal box of the utility program (properly 
decoded RTTY as a matter of fact).  but if i type something into the 
bottom box and hit transmit (or cntl t or whathaveyou) i don't seem 
to be able to get my K3 to transmit.

i'm guessing i'm missing something obvious.

thanks!
robin (W6RDG)
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help! Wierd bandswitching problem.

[NZ0T]

No Wayne, thank you!

wayne burdick wrote:
> 
> Now on my list--
> 
> tnx
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
> On May 15, 2009, at 6:54 PM, drewko wrote:
> 
>> Try the following.
>>
>> Assuming all your ham bands are mapped "IN", except 5.0 MHz:
>>
>> Starting somewhere on the 40m CW band...
>> FREQ-ENT   5.990   ENTER
>> Move VFO to somewhere above 6.000
>> BAND-UP
>>
>> You end up on 30m (not in the 40m ham band as you would expect).
>>
>> Go to CONFIG BND MAP and use BAND-DOWN to select 7.0: It has been
>> mapped "OUT".
> 
> 
> ---
> 
> http://www.elecraft.com
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help! Wierd bandswitching problem.

[wayne burdick]

Now on my list--

tnx
Wayne
N6KR

On May 15, 2009, at 6:54 PM, drewko wrote:

> Try the following.
>
> Assuming all your ham bands are mapped "IN", except 5.0 MHz:
>
> Starting somewhere on the 40m CW band...
> FREQ-ENT   5.990   ENTER
> Move VFO to somewhere above 6.000
> BAND-UP
>
> You end up on 30m (not in the 40m ham band as you would expect).
>
> Go to CONFIG BND MAP and use BAND-DOWN to select 7.0: It has been
> mapped "OUT".


---

http://www.elecraft.com

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help! Wierd bandswitching problem.

[Gary Hinson]

> Good job, Drew!  I repeated your steps and confirm the same result:  
> 40m is mapped out.  Now that it's repeatable it can be fixed.  (BTW,  
> I'm running FW 3.11)

Same here on FW 3.14

73,
Gary  ZL2iFB

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help! Wierd bandswitching problem.

[Joe Planisky]

Good job, Drew!  I repeated your steps and confirm the same result:  
40m is mapped out.  Now that it's repeatable it can be fixed.  (BTW,  
I'm running FW 3.11)

73
--
Joe KB8AP



On May 15, 2009, at 6:54 PM, drewko wrote:

> Try the following.
>
> Assuming all your ham bands are mapped "IN", except 5.0 MHz:
>
> Starting somewhere on the 40m CW band...
> FREQ-ENT   5.990   ENTER
> Move VFO to somewhere above 6.000
> BAND-UP
>
> You end up on 30m (not in the 40m ham band as you would expect).
>
> Go to CONFIG BND MAP and use BAND-DOWN to select 7.0: It has been
> mapped "OUT".
>
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help! Wierd bandswitching problem.

[drewko]

Try the following. 

Assuming all your ham bands are mapped "IN", except 5.0 MHz:

Starting somewhere on the 40m CW band...
FREQ-ENT   5.990   ENTER
Move VFO to somewhere above 6.000
BAND-UP

You end up on 30m (not in the 40m ham band as you would expect).  

Go to CONFIG BND MAP and use BAND-DOWN to select 7.0: It has been
mapped "OUT". 

Also I now sometimes find that my KAT3 on 40m has been switched from
AUTO to BYP when I have been outside of the ham bands. Not sure how to
replicate that, only that I've had to switch it back to AUTO a couple
of times after leaving the ham bands recently.

No glitchy 3rd party software here. Just using the K3 controls. 

I'm surprised you are happy with the band mapping on the K3 with
general coverage. I think it is pretty annoying, but maybe I am just
using a different method to get around the bands than you are.

73,
Drew
AF2Z




On Sat, 16 May 2009 00:25:20 +0100, DaveL  G3TJP wrote:

>I've rediscovered the pleasures of SWLing again and have spent much time 
>snooping around the bands, particularly the broadcast bands.
>
>There have been no band mapping problems here and no rig control software is 
>in use as I'm into DIY HI!
>
>But seriously, no problems at all encountered on v3.14 at my QTH, but I do so 
>look forward to synchronous AM detection.
>
>73 all.  DaveL  G3TJP

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help! Wierd bandswitching problem.

[NZ0T]

I don't use rig control software.  I do use ACLog to log and downloaded and
starting using K3_EZ the other day and that may be what caused the problem. 
At least now I know what is happening and can resolve any future problems.

73, Bill, NZ0T

I tune out of band on a regular basis for SWLing and have no 
such problem.  If you're using rig control software, I suggest
you look in that area.
 
73, Mac, KR0I
**An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help! Wierd bandswitching problem.

[Kr01a]

I tune out of band on a regular basis for SWLing and have no 
such problem.  If you're using rig control software, I suggest
you look in that area.
 
73, Mac, KR0I
**An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help! Wierd bandswitching problem.

[David Lankshear]

I've rediscovered the pleasures of SWLing again and have spent much time 
snooping around the bands, particularly the broadcast bands.

There have been no band mapping problems here and no rig control software is in 
use as I'm into DIY HI!

But seriously, no problems at all encountered on v3.14 at my QTH, but I do so 
look forward to synchronous AM detection.

73 all.  DaveL  G3TJP
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help! Wierd bandswitching problem.

[David Gilbert]

Address what?  Glitchy 3rd party rig control software? 

I can spin the VFO knob on my K3 through the entire HF spectrum without 
having it un-map any band.

Dave   AB7E



David Cutter wrote:
> That should not happen, that's not user-friendly at all.  I trust this will 
> be addressed at a firmware update.
>
> David
> G3UNA
>
>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help! Wierd bandswitching problem.
>
>
>   
>> Be aware that roaming outside of the ham bands can cause them to get
>> mapped out. Then you have to go back into Config Band Map to reset
>> them to "IN". This happens to me frequently.
>>
>> 73,
>> Drew
>> AF2Z
>>
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help! Wierd bandswitching problem.

[David Cutter]

That should not happen, that's not user-friendly at all.  I trust this will 
be addressed at a firmware update.

David
G3UNA


Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help! Wierd bandswitching problem.


> Be aware that roaming outside of the ham bands can cause them to get
> mapped out. Then you have to go back into Config Band Map to reset
> them to "IN". This happens to me frequently.
>
> 73,
> Drew
> AF2Z
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help! Wierd bandswitching problem.

[Phil LaMarche]

That has happened to me many times.  I have N4PY and Lp-Pan, so it's a
matter of clicking on the band button in those programs and everything comes
back.

Phil 


Philip LaMarche 
LaMarche Enterprises, Inc.
www.instantgourmetspices.com

www.w9dvm.com 
800-395-7795 pin 02 
727-944-3226 
FAX 727-937-8834 
NASFT 30210 

K3  #1605

CCA 98  00827
W9DVM 



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of drewko
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 2:31 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help! Wierd bandswitching problem.

Be aware that roaming outside of the ham bands can cause them to get mapped
out. Then you have to go back into Config Band Map to reset them to "IN".
This happens to me frequently. 

73,
Drew
AF2Z


On Thu, 14 May 2009 18:56:53 -0700 (PDT), Bill NZ0T wrote:

>
>All of a sudden tonight I can't get to 160, 80 and 30 meters with the 
>band up/down button on the K3.  Thinking it might be a glitch with 3.14 
>I downloaded 3.06 (next newest I have saved) but the problem still 
>exists.  I can access the bands by direct frequency entry and my 
>memories on those bands are still there but when I scroll through using 
>the button 160, 80 and 30 just aren't there.  Anyone else had this happen?
>
>73,
>
>Bill NZ0T

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help! Wierd bandswitching problem.

[drewko]

Be aware that roaming outside of the ham bands can cause them to get
mapped out. Then you have to go back into Config Band Map to reset
them to "IN". This happens to me frequently. 

73,
Drew
AF2Z


On Thu, 14 May 2009 18:56:53 -0700 (PDT), Bill NZ0T wrote:

>
>All of a sudden tonight I can't get to 160, 80 and 30 meters with the band
>up/down button on the K3.  Thinking it might be a glitch with 3.14 I
>downloaded 3.06 (next newest I have saved) but the problem still exists.  I
>can access the bands by direct frequency entry and my memories on those
>bands are still there but when I scroll through using the button 160, 80 and
>30 just aren't there.  Anyone else had this happen?
>
>73,
>
>Bill NZ0T

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help! Wierd bandswitching problem.

[NZ0T]

Thanks Joe!  That was it.  

Joe Planisky wrote:
> 
> Hi Bill,
> 
> Yes, a similar thing has happened to me several times.  Sometimes  
> after a FW upgrade, and sometimes just out of the blue.  Check the  
> band map (CONFIG: BND MAP). With the BND MAP entry up, cycle through  
> the bands with the band switch button and see if 1.8, 3.5, and 10.0  
> got set to 'out'.  If they did, use the VFO A knob to change it to 'in'.
> 
> 73
> --
> Joe KB8AP
> 
> On May 14, 2009, at 6:56 PM, NZ0T wrote:
> 
>>
>> All of a sudden tonight I can't get to 160, 80 and 30 meters with  
>> the band
>> up/down button on the K3.  Thinking it might be a glitch with 3.14 I
>> downloaded 3.06 (next newest I have saved) but the problem still  
>> exists.  I
>> can access the bands by direct frequency entry and my memories on  
>> those
>> bands are still there but when I scroll through using the button  
>> 160, 80 and
>> 30 just aren't there.  Anyone else had this happen?
>>
>> 73,
>>
>> Bill NZ0T
>> -- 
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View this message in context: 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help! Wierd bandswitching problem.

[Joe Planisky]

Hi Bill,

Yes, a similar thing has happened to me several times.  Sometimes  
after a FW upgrade, and sometimes just out of the blue.  Check the  
band map (CONFIG: BND MAP). With the BND MAP entry up, cycle through  
the bands with the band switch button and see if 1.8, 3.5, and 10.0  
got set to 'out'.  If they did, use the VFO A knob to change it to 'in'.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On May 14, 2009, at 6:56 PM, NZ0T wrote:

>
> All of a sudden tonight I can't get to 160, 80 and 30 meters with  
> the band
> up/down button on the K3.  Thinking it might be a glitch with 3.14 I
> downloaded 3.06 (next newest I have saved) but the problem still  
> exists.  I
> can access the bands by direct frequency entry and my memories on  
> those
> bands are still there but when I scroll through using the button  
> 160, 80 and
> 30 just aren't there.  Anyone else had this happen?
>
> 73,
>
> Bill NZ0T
> -- 
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[Elecraft] [K3] Help! Wierd bandswitching problem.

[NZ0T]

All of a sudden tonight I can't get to 160, 80 and 30 meters with the band
up/down button on the K3.  Thinking it might be a glitch with 3.14 I
downloaded 3.06 (next newest I have saved) but the problem still exists.  I
can access the bands by direct frequency entry and my memories on those
bands are still there but when I scroll through using the button 160, 80 and
30 just aren't there.  Anyone else had this happen?

73,

Bill NZ0T
-- 
View this message in context: 
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[Elecraft] [K3] Help with K3, TITAN, QSK: redux

[David Windisch]

Tks to all kind enough to reply.  Either way seems to work fine.
73 Dave W8FGX
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help with K3, TenTec TITAN amp, and QSK

[Steve Ellington]

I agree. The K3's keying is excellent and the timing of the keyer matches 
that of the sidetone. This is important. When I use the K1EL keyer or the 
Logickey K5, I find that my timing is slightly off because there seems to be 
a delay in keyer output vs. paddle closure. I feel like I'm dragging the 
sidetone behind. The K3's keyer response is instant.
Steve Ellington
n...@carolina.rr.com
- Original Message - 
From: "Paul Christensen" 
To: "Vic K2VCO" ; "Steve Ellington" 
Cc: 
Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 2:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help with K3, TenTec TITAN amp, and QSK


>> It does. I think this has to do with the slope of the transmitted RF that 
>> Paul referred to.
>
> In the spirit of fairness, I must say that regardless of how critical I am 
> of CW keying performance in general (as is Steve), I think the K3 does a 
> better overall job of keying than any commercially-produced rig I've had 
> in the past.  Just a few slight tweaks would turn it into compete Nirvana.
>
> Paul, W9AC
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help with K3, TenTec TITAN amp, and QSK

[Paul Christensen]

> It does. I think this has to do with the slope of the transmitted RF that 
> Paul referred to.

In the spirit of fairness, I must say that regardless of how critical I am 
of CW keying performance in general (as is Steve), I think the K3 does a 
better overall job of keying than any commercially-produced rig I've had in 
the past.  Just a few slight tweaks would turn it into compete Nirvana.

Paul, W9AC

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help with K3, TenTec TITAN amp, and QSK

[Steve Ellington]

Vic
Nope. There's more to weight than just dot space ratio. Not only must the 
length of the dashes change but so must the dits. The K3 weight control 
changes only the length of the dash, not the dits. If you turn up the K3's 
"weight", it just changes the apparent ration and ends up sounding like a 
bug with normal dits and long dashes. This is not the way to send cw. The 
K3's control is the same as ICOMs which is flat wrong. Kenwood had it right 
in their earlier rigs but went the ICOM way recently. TenTec has it right in 
the Omni 7. Almost all external keyers have it right too.
Steve Ellington
n...@carolina.rr.com
- Original Message - 
From: "Vic K2VCO" 
To: "Steve Ellington" 
Cc: "David Windisch" ; 
Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 2:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help with K3, TenTec TITAN amp, and QSK


> Steve Ellington wrote:
>> Aw come onTurn the "weight" control up and your dahs get longer. The 
>> dits stay the same. This is RATIO, not weight. A weight control would 
>> make your dits shorter, lighter, less heavy. Just like changing the gap 
>> on a bug.
>
> The scope says otherwise. The K3 has a weight control. Dot:Dash ratio is 
> constant. Dot:Space ratio is weight, and that's what the K3 weight control 
> changes.
>
>> The JA boys changed this back a few years ago and started calling weight 
>> ration. Any Curtis keyer has it right. The Idom Press keyers have it 
>> right as well as the K1EL series. All of this have real weight controls 
>> and some even have weight and ration controls. The ICOMs have ratio 
>> controls and they are useless. The correct ratio is 3:1 and should never 
>> vary.
>
> I don't disagree that the Dot:Dash ratio should never change. I don't have 
> an ICOM radio, so I can't tell you what it does, but I know the K3 changes 
> the weight.
>
> The Idiom press keyers have two adjustments: Weight (W), which changes 
> Dot:Space ratio as it should, and Keying Compensation (K), which lets you 
> add a fixed amount to all keyed elements, to compensate for a fixed 
> shortening in the radio.
>
> -- 
> 73,
> Vic, K2VCO
> Fresno CA
> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help with K3, TenTec TITAN amp, and QSK

[Vic K2VCO]

Steve Ellington wrote:
> Paul
> Have you noticed that the sidetone in the K3 sounds slightly heavier than 
> what is actually transmitted? In fact it's a little annoyingly heavy.

It does. I think this has to do with the slope of the transmitted RF that Paul 
referred to.
-- 
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help with K3, TenTec TITAN amp, and QSK

[Vic K2VCO]

Paul Christensen wrote:

> Part of the issue is in determining how to calculate the rise & fall time of
> the keyed envelope.  This becomes more critical as CW rise/fall times
> lengthen.  Myself, I would calculate the keyed element length by referencing
> the mid-point of the slope.  K compensation would then be added or
> subtracted from there.

I've found that because of this you can't just depend on the scope to make the 
adjustment. 
What I do is put an old-time CW operator (myself) :-) on a second receiver and 
have him 
listen to it.
-- 
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help with K3, TenTec TITAN amp, and QSK

[Steve Ellington]

Paul
Have you noticed that the sidetone in the K3 sounds slightly heavier than 
what is actually transmitted? In fact it's a little annoyingly heavy.

Steve Ellington
n...@carolina.rr.com
- Original Message - 
From: "Paul Christensen" 
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 1:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help with K3, TenTec TITAN amp, and QSK


>> The K3's internal keyer does have a weight control which varies the
>> dot:space ratio. This is not the same as the Logikey's K parameter,
>> because the K lengthens the
>> elements by a constant amount regardless of speed (the Logikey also has a
>> weight adjustment if you wish).
>
> Same here.  I use a microHam CW Keyer with K = 3 to compensate for a 
> slight
> bit of "dit shortening" with the K3.  The dit shortening is less 
> problematic
> in the "Old QSK" versus the "New QSK" menu mode.  I would love to see
> variable K compensation added to the K3 that would function on both the
> internal keyer as well as an external keyer.  Adjustable rise/fall CW 
> would
> be a very welcome addition at say 4 ms to 8 ms in 2 ms increments.
>
> Part of the issue is in determining how to calculate the rise & fall time 
> of
> the keyed envelope.  This becomes more critical as CW rise/fall times
> lengthen.  Myself, I would calculate the keyed element length by 
> referencing
> the mid-point of the slope.  K compensation would then be added or
> subtracted from there.
>
> If you calculate the keyed element length at the point where the CW RF
> waveform just begins to rise and continuing all the way to the point where
> it has completed falling to zero, then the K3 is dead-on when referencing 
> an
> external keyed closure.  But, that's not a practical method of determining
> keyed waveform duration with a raised cosine slope.  Again, referencing 
> the
> rise/fall points mid-slope is probably the best compromise with ramped
> up/down keying.  If we had that control, we could then put our keyers back
> to K = 0 where they really belong.
>
> Paul, W9AC
>
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help with K3, TenTec TITAN amp, and QSK

[Vic K2VCO]

Steve Ellington wrote:
> Aw come onTurn the "weight" control up and your dahs get longer. The 
> dits stay the same. This is RATIO, not weight. A weight control would 
> make your dits shorter, lighter, less heavy. Just like changing the gap 
> on a bug.

The scope says otherwise. The K3 has a weight control. Dot:Dash ratio is 
constant. 
Dot:Space ratio is weight, and that's what the K3 weight control changes.

> The JA boys changed this back a few years ago and started calling weight 
> ration. Any Curtis keyer has it right. The Idom Press keyers have it 
> right as well as the K1EL series. All of this have real weight controls 
> and some even have weight and ration controls. The ICOMs have ratio 
> controls and they are useless. The correct ratio is 3:1 and should never 
> vary.

I don't disagree that the Dot:Dash ratio should never change. I don't have an 
ICOM radio, 
so I can't tell you what it does, but I know the K3 changes the weight.

The Idiom press keyers have two adjustments: Weight (W), which changes 
Dot:Space ratio as 
it should, and Keying Compensation (K), which lets you add a fixed amount to 
all keyed 
elements, to compensate for a fixed shortening in the radio.

-- 
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help with K3, TenTec TITAN amp, and QSK

[Paul Christensen]

> The K3's internal keyer does have a weight control which varies the
> dot:space ratio. This is not the same as the Logikey's K parameter,
> because the K lengthens the
> elements by a constant amount regardless of speed (the Logikey also has a
> weight adjustment if you wish).

Same here.  I use a microHam CW Keyer with K = 3 to compensate for a slight
bit of "dit shortening" with the K3.  The dit shortening is less problematic
in the "Old QSK" versus the "New QSK" menu mode.  I would love to see
variable K compensation added to the K3 that would function on both the
internal keyer as well as an external keyer.  Adjustable rise/fall CW would
be a very welcome addition at say 4 ms to 8 ms in 2 ms increments.

Part of the issue is in determining how to calculate the rise & fall time of
the keyed envelope.  This becomes more critical as CW rise/fall times
lengthen.  Myself, I would calculate the keyed element length by referencing
the mid-point of the slope.  K compensation would then be added or
subtracted from there.

If you calculate the keyed element length at the point where the CW RF
waveform just begins to rise and continuing all the way to the point where
it has completed falling to zero, then the K3 is dead-on when referencing an
external keyed closure.  But, that's not a practical method of determining
keyed waveform duration with a raised cosine slope.  Again, referencing the
rise/fall points mid-slope is probably the best compromise with ramped
up/down keying.  If we had that control, we could then put our keyers back
to K = 0 where they really belong.

Paul, W9AC 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help with K3, TenTec TITAN amp, and QSK

[Steve Ellington]

Aw come onTurn the "weight" control up and your dahs get longer. The 
dits stay the same. This is RATIO, not weight. A weight control would make 
your dits shorter, lighter, less heavy. Just like changing the gap on a bug.
The JA boys changed this back a few years ago and started calling weight 
ration. Any Curtis keyer has it right. The Idom Press keyers have it right 
as well as the K1EL series. All of this have real weight controls and some 
even have weight and ration controls. The ICOMs have ratio controls and they 
are useless. The correct ratio is 3:1 and should never vary.
Steve Ellington
n...@carolina.rr.com
- Original Message - 
From: "Vic K2VCO" 
To: "Steve Ellington" 
Cc: "David Windisch" ; 
Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 1:32 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help with K3, TenTec TITAN amp, and QSK


> Steve Ellington wrote:
>> 2 things:
>> I see that the K3 can delay RF generation before keying the amp relay but 
>> what about, upon key up, delaying amp delay until RF ceases?  How is this 
>> accomplished. Is it included?
>
> Yes, AMP KEY does not drop until after RF generation stops. I don't recall 
> how long the delay is.
>
>> 2. The K3's keyer is excellent but it's a ratio adjustment, not weight as 
>> indicated. The dit length or heaviness is non adjustable. This is like 
>> most JA rigs and is really strange. Why would anyone want long dahs like 
>> a bug? A real weight control shortens both dits and dahs equally and 
>> makes overall keying sound more choppy or heavier. Although the K3's 
>> weight is about right, some of us would prefer lighter weight for  high 
>> speed and heavy weight for bad conditions. This goes way back to the 
>> early days of  Morse.
>
> I don't think this is correct. I think it controls the dot:space ratio and 
> the dot:dash ratio is constant. In fact, I looked at it on the scope and 
> is is a weight control.
>
>
> -- 
> 73,
> Vic, K2VCO
> Fresno CA
> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help with K3, TenTec TITAN amp, and QSK

[Vic K2VCO]

Steve Ellington wrote:
> 2 things:
> I see that the K3 can delay RF generation before keying the amp relay 
> but what about, upon key up, delaying amp delay until RF ceases?  How is 
> this accomplished. Is it included?

Yes, AMP KEY does not drop until after RF generation stops. I don't recall how 
long the 
delay is.

> 2. The K3's keyer is excellent but it's a ratio adjustment, not weight 
> as indicated. The dit length or heaviness is non adjustable. This is 
> like most JA rigs and is really strange. Why would anyone want long dahs 
> like a bug? A real weight control shortens both dits and dahs equally 
> and makes overall keying sound more choppy or heavier. Although the K3's 
> weight is about right, some of us would prefer lighter weight for  high 
> speed and heavy weight for bad conditions. This goes way back to the 
> early days of  Morse.

I don't think this is correct. I think it controls the dot:space ratio and the 
dot:dash 
ratio is constant. In fact, I looked at it on the scope and is is a weight 
control.


-- 
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help with K3, TenTec TITAN amp, and QSK

[Steve Ellington]

 Typo correction (amp relay) not amp delay!

>2 things:
> I see that the K3 can delay RF generation before keying the amp relay but
> what about, upon key up, delaying amp relay until RF ceases?  How is this
> accomplished. Is it included?
> 2. The K3's keyer is excellent but it's a ratio adjustment, not weight as
> indicated. The dit length or heaviness is non adjustable. This is like 
> most
> JA rigs and is really strange. Why would anyone want long dahs like a bug? 
> A
> real weight control shortens both dits and dahs equally and makes overall
> keying sound more choppy or heavier. Although the K3's weight is about
> right, some of us would prefer lighter weight for  high speed and heavy
> weight for bad conditions. This goes way back to the early days of  Morse.
> Steve Ellington
> n...@carolina.rr.com
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Vic K2VCO" 
> To: "David Windisch" 
> Cc: 
> Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 12:37 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help with K3, TenTec TITAN amp, and QSK
>
>
>> David Windisch wrote:
>>> Hi, all concerned:
>>>
>>> Please make comments about the situation here before I siubar:
>>>
>>> My TITAN amplifier has a QSK keying loop, which I now use with an
>>> external keyer and
>>> FT-1000D.
>>>
>>> I've RTM ver. D2, searched the Nabble K3 reflector, and see nothing 
>>> about
>>> such a setup
>>> for use with the K3.
>>
>> You do not need the QSK loop with the K3, which has an adjustable delay 
>> of
>> 8 - 20 (I
>> think) ms. between the amp key signal and the generation of RF. You can
>> attach the K3's
>> key out to the Titan's key in, and connect the external keyer to the K2's
>> key in.
>>
>> I use a Logikey K3 and set the K parameter (I've been using K=3 or K=4) 
>> to
>> lengthen the
>> elements to compensate when using the K3 in QSK mode.
>>
>> The K3's internal keyer does have a weight control which varies the
>> dot:space ratio. This
>> is not the same as the Logikey's K parameter, because the K lengthens the
>> elements by a
>> constant amount regardless of speed (the Logikey also has a weight
>> adjustment if you wish).
>>
>> I understand a 'ratio' control as dot:dash ratio. This should, in my
>> opinion, always be
>> exactly 3:1 and I am surprised to hear that any modern keyer still has
>> such a control!
>> Maybe you mean dot:space ratio, which I have always called a 'weight
>> control'.
>>
>> In any event, the internal keyer is not bad and can be set for either
>> iambic mode A or B.
>> I like the Logikey a bit better because the timing seems less critical to
>> me.
>>
>> -- 
>> 73,
>> Vic, K2VCO
>> Fresno CA
>> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
>> __
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>
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help with K3, TenTec TITAN amp, and QSK

[Steve Ellington]

2 things:
I see that the K3 can delay RF generation before keying the amp relay but 
what about, upon key up, delaying amp delay until RF ceases?  How is this 
accomplished. Is it included?
2. The K3's keyer is excellent but it's a ratio adjustment, not weight as 
indicated. The dit length or heaviness is non adjustable. This is like most 
JA rigs and is really strange. Why would anyone want long dahs like a bug? A 
real weight control shortens both dits and dahs equally and makes overall 
keying sound more choppy or heavier. Although the K3's weight is about 
right, some of us would prefer lighter weight for  high speed and heavy 
weight for bad conditions. This goes way back to the early days of  Morse.
Steve Ellington
n...@carolina.rr.com
- Original Message - 
From: "Vic K2VCO" 
To: "David Windisch" 
Cc: 
Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 12:37 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help with K3, TenTec TITAN amp, and QSK


> David Windisch wrote:
>> Hi, all concerned:
>>
>> Please make comments about the situation here before I siubar:
>>
>> My TITAN amplifier has a QSK keying loop, which I now use with an 
>> external keyer and
>> FT-1000D.
>>
>> I've RTM ver. D2, searched the Nabble K3 reflector, and see nothing about 
>> such a setup
>> for use with the K3.
>
> You do not need the QSK loop with the K3, which has an adjustable delay of 
> 8 - 20 (I
> think) ms. between the amp key signal and the generation of RF. You can 
> attach the K3's
> key out to the Titan's key in, and connect the external keyer to the K2's 
> key in.
>
> I use a Logikey K3 and set the K parameter (I've been using K=3 or K=4) to 
> lengthen the
> elements to compensate when using the K3 in QSK mode.
>
> The K3's internal keyer does have a weight control which varies the 
> dot:space ratio. This
> is not the same as the Logikey's K parameter, because the K lengthens the 
> elements by a
> constant amount regardless of speed (the Logikey also has a weight 
> adjustment if you wish).
>
> I understand a 'ratio' control as dot:dash ratio. This should, in my 
> opinion, always be
> exactly 3:1 and I am surprised to hear that any modern keyer still has 
> such a control!
> Maybe you mean dot:space ratio, which I have always called a 'weight 
> control'.
>
> In any event, the internal keyer is not bad and can be set for either 
> iambic mode A or B.
> I like the Logikey a bit better because the timing seems less critical to 
> me.
>
> -- 
> 73,
> Vic, K2VCO
> Fresno CA
> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help with K3, TenTec TITAN amp, and QSK

[Vic K2VCO]

David Windisch wrote:
> Hi, all concerned:
> 
> Please make comments about the situation here before I siubar:
> 
> My TITAN amplifier has a QSK keying loop, which I now use with an external 
> keyer and
> FT-1000D.
> 
> I've RTM ver. D2, searched the Nabble K3 reflector, and see nothing about 
> such a setup
> for use with the K3.

You do not need the QSK loop with the K3, which has an adjustable delay of 8 - 
20 (I 
think) ms. between the amp key signal and the generation of RF. You can attach 
the K3's 
key out to the Titan's key in, and connect the external keyer to the K2's key 
in.

I use a Logikey K3 and set the K parameter (I've been using K=3 or K=4) to 
lengthen the 
elements to compensate when using the K3 in QSK mode.

The K3's internal keyer does have a weight control which varies the dot:space 
ratio. This 
is not the same as the Logikey's K parameter, because the K lengthens the 
elements by a 
constant amount regardless of speed (the Logikey also has a weight adjustment 
if you wish).

I understand a 'ratio' control as dot:dash ratio. This should, in my opinion, 
always be 
exactly 3:1 and I am surprised to hear that any modern keyer still has such a 
control! 
Maybe you mean dot:space ratio, which I have always called a 'weight control'.

In any event, the internal keyer is not bad and can be set for either iambic 
mode A or B. 
I like the Logikey a bit better because the timing seems less critical to me.

-- 
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help with K3, TenTec TITAN amp, and QSK

[Ignacy]

When I asked TT about k3 and the Centurion, they wrote to connect it straight 
without any extra delay and do not worry. So far no problem.
Ignacy

 



Hi, all concerned:

Please make comments about the situation here before I siubar:

My TITAN amplifier has a QSK keying loop, which I now use with an external 
keyer and FT-1000D.  

I've RTM ver. D2, searched the Nabble K3 reflector, and see nothing about such 
a setup for use with the K3.

I use the external keyer because it has real *weight*-control, not the phony 
*ratio*-control passed off as weight-control in (not only) the FT-1000D.

Real weight-control allows me to make the on-the-air signal sound good by 
compensating for delays in the t/r switching interval, which show up as light 
characters.

Common sense tells me this setup ought to work with the K3 as well ;o)

Your input, please.

Tia & 73
Dave Windisch, W8FGX
Cincinnati


-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/Help-with-K3%2C-TenTec-TITAN-amp%2C-and-QSK-tp2639144p2639365.html
Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] [K3] Help with K3, TenTec TITAN amp, and QSK

[David Windisch]

Hi, all concerned:

Please make comments about the situation here before I siubar:

My TITAN amplifier has a QSK keying loop, which I now use with an external 
keyer and FT-1000D.  

I've RTM ver. D2, searched the Nabble K3 reflector, and see nothing about such 
a setup for use with the K3.

I use the external keyer because it has real *weight*-control, not the phony 
*ratio*-control passed off as weight-control in (not only) the FT-1000D.

Real weight-control allows me to make the on-the-air signal sound good by 
compensating for delays in the t/r switching interval, which show up as light 
characters.

Common sense tells me this setup ought to work with the K3 as well ;o)

Your input, please.

Tia & 73
Dave Windisch, W8FGX
Cincinnati
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/Help-with-K3%2C-TenTec-TITAN-amp%2C-and-QSK-tp2639144p2639144.html
Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help with calibrating reference oscillator

[Bruce McLaughlin]

You might try clicking the fine/course button to the right of VFO  A.  See
if that causes some of the decimal places to disappear from the display.  If
it does, continue to click the button until no more decimal places
disappear.  Now set the VFO to the desired reading.  I will qualify the
foregoing by stating that I did not build the K-3 but it really does sound
like it is displaying the frequency to more decimal places than you need or
want for this purpose.

Bruce-W8FU

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dale Harding K7DNH
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 10:43 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] Help with calibrating reference oscillator


Hi everyone - 

need some advice please - at the K3 kit build stage of calibrating the
reference oscillator ( pg 50 of manual )  -  once I get to config: REF CAL -
the readout on the display is  like 42. 487.043 - - and the reading from the
frequency counter is 59.95   

I need to adjust the VFO A to match the frequency counter - however turning
the VFO it appears it is going to take me three weeks of turning to get to
59.95 - as it is moving in 00.000.001  increments - 

is there a way to speed up this process or have I done something wrong (
probably, as I have NEVER done anything like this in my life before! )

thanks for helping a newbie out.

Dale

-
73,

Dale   K7DNH
-- 
View this message in context:
http://n2.nabble.com/Help-with-calibrating-reference-oscillator-tp2538815p25
38815.html
Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Help with calibrating reference oscillator

[Dale Harding K7DNH]

Many have replied off of the reflector to address this - many thanks and I will 
recheck everything, including having the freq counter checked.

Also will call support desk tomorrow when I am with the rig as suggested by 
Wayne.  Another amazing testimony of the personal care given by the principals 
of the company  to their customers - to take the time to personally email a 
purchaser of their product - wow!

I have not yet heard this radio work, but I am very thankful I choose Elecraft. 
 Looking forward to my first QSO... ever.






-
73,

Dale   K7DNH
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/Help-with-calibrating-reference-oscillator-tp2538815p2541096.html
Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] [K3] Help with calibrating reference oscillator

[Dale Harding K7DNH]

Hi everyone - 

need some advice please - at the K3 kit build stage of calibrating the 
reference oscillator ( pg 50 of manual )  -  once I get to config: REF CAL - 
the readout on the display is  like 42. 487.043 - - and the reading from the 
frequency counter is 59.95   

I need to adjust the VFO A to match the frequency counter - however turning the 
VFO it appears it is going to take me three weeks of turning to get to 59.95 - 
as it is moving in 00.000.001  increments - 

is there a way to speed up this process or have I done something wrong ( 
probably, as I have NEVER done anything like this in my life before! )

thanks for helping a newbie out.

Dale

-
73,

Dale   K7DNH
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/Help-with-calibrating-reference-oscillator-tp2538815p2538815.html
Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] K3 Help with KRX3 Installation PL2 Error?

[The Smiths]

I've seen PLL errors when there is an SMD resistor near the pem nut that has 
been crushed by improper tightening, or lack of lock washer placed behind the 
board.  Look at your PCB, and see if you can find any cracked parts going up to 
the TMP connetor output leading to the Sub rec. Synth board.

Also, try swaping the TMP cables between Synth board #1 and Syth board #2 to 
help confirm where the problem is.  Hope this gets you started in the right 
direction

 

Micahel

N6MQL

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Help with KRX3 Installation PL2 Error?

[Allan Bacon]

Problem solved, my lack of a detailed reading of the calibration steps was the 
culprit, when I Looked Up "Calibration" and did those steps on the main and 
sub, working great.
73,
Al
W6GBG



- Original Message 
From: Allan Bacon 
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Cc: Allan Bacon 
Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2009 9:17:44 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Help with KRX3 Installation PL2 Error?


K3 #2252 Factory built, now adding KRX3. Do not want an exotic setup, just want 
to listen on one frequency and transmit on another - same band, same antenna.

Completed installation with no problem, Used good static mat and wrist strap. 
Uploaded latest firmware. Unsed Config Menu to initialize as ANT-BMC (seemed 
like the default I wanted to use) . Do not have a TMP cable plugged in to J92, 
as I believe this is how to keep it simple for what I want to do.

Per troubleshooting chart on a PL2 Error, I tried recalibrating the VCO with 
VCO (CONGIG:VCO:MD), taped SBU, screen showed 255, and SUB starts flashing 
slowly. Rebooted, Still get PL2 Error.

VFO A and B seem to work fine

Looking for help please - 
73,
Al
W6GBG 
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[Elecraft] K3 Help with KRX3 Installation PL2 Error?

[Allan Bacon]

K3 #2252 Factory built, now adding KRX3. Do not want an exotic setup, just want 
to listen on one frequency and transmit on another - same band, same antenna.

Completed installation with no problem, Used good static mat and wrist strap. 
Uploaded latest firmware. Unsed Config Menu to initialize as ANT-BMC (seemed 
like the default I wanted to use) . Do not have a TMP cable plugged in to J92, 
as I believe this is how to keep it simple for what I want to do.

Per troubleshooting chart on a PL2 Error, I tried recalibrating the VCO with 
VCO (CONGIG:VCO:MD), taped SBU, screen showed 255, and SUB starts flashing 
slowly. Rebooted, Still get PL2 Error.

VFO A and B seem to work fine

Looking for help please - 
73,
Al
W6GBG 
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