[Elecraft] T1 ATU Not Staying In Tune Mode
All: Is it normal for the T1 ATU not to stay in tune mode after tuning an antenna? I've noticed that my T1 will occasionally default back to power mode so I need to switch the T1 back into tune mode whenever I switch bands and need to re-tune. Tony __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] T1 ATU for 200mW WSPRlite
Thanks Bill, but I wasn't clear the options I was looking for were how to use he T1 with the EndFed antenna I have with the WSPRlite, given that the T1 requires 0.5W and the WSPRlite outputs only 0.2W. Odd as it sounds, I'm looking for an "amplifier" to switch in to bump 10-25 fold to 2-5W as the T1 likes 2-5W for initial tune cycle and 0.5W thereafter. The T1 has latching relays so it seems I *could* tune with a KX2 and then swap in the WSPRlite - so that's the backup plan. BRET/N4SRN -- Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] T1 ATU for 200mW WSPRlite
Bret I assume from your gear list that the 30 meter WSPRlite is the only transmitter. In that case, a resonant 30 meter antenna either a center fed dipole, a ¼ wave vertical with radials or an end fed ½ wavelength wire with a L match should satisfy the antenna requirement. Bill AF4B Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: MaverickNH Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2019 7:47 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] T1 ATU for 200mW WSPRlite I'm planning to do some camping and will bring along a KX3Helper EndFed 40-6m antenna with 9:1 Unan, T1 ATU and SOTAbeams WSPRlite to run on 30m from a USB battery bank. The T1 requires 0.5W to tune but the WSPRlite output is 0.2W. Any thoughts on options other than tuning up with another radio (like KX2 w/o ATU)? BRET/N4SRN -- Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to a...@att.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] T1 ATU for 200mW WSPRlite
I'm planning to do some camping and will bring along a KX3Helper EndFed 40-6m antenna with 9:1 Unan, T1 ATU and SOTAbeams WSPRlite to run on 30m from a USB battery bank. The T1 requires 0.5W to tune but the WSPRlite output is 0.2W. Any thoughts on options other than tuning up with another radio (like KX2 w/o ATU)? BRET/N4SRN -- Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] T1 ATU
I recently bought and built the T1 ATU, and it works great - no issues from first power up on. I should say it functions correctly - but I have a problem with the battery voltage displayed by the ATU. It seems to be over 1V high. I don’t expect calibrated precision, but a semi used 9V battery is being displayed as(mores as) 10.3+ V? Is something wrong and if so any ideas? I have checked the values of all installed components that I believe are related to this circuit meaning specifically everything on the control board. I am concerned that when the battery is getting too low, The ATU won’t know or warn me. Thanks Dave KB2NGK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] T1 ATU parts question
I'm taking a parts inventory and noticed that I've been provided with a 78L06 instead of an 78L05. Is this expected or should I contact Elecraft for the specified part? Thanks,Scott N1ST __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] FOR SALE: ELECRAFT T1 ATU - Factory Built
The Elecraft has been sold - thanks to all who have replied! Dan - NB1C -Original Message- From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dan Boardman Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2016 1:03 PM To: Elecraft Subject: [Elecraft] FOR SALE: ELECRAFT T1 ATU - Factory Built I have a Elecraft T1 (factory built) for sale - I used it ounce, Non smoking user. Sell for $125 shipped in the US - Paypal OK - ADD 3% for fees. First responder that tells me they will take it will be the lucky new owner! Thanks much Dan - NB1C __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to dan.board...@shreditfast.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] FOR SALE: ELECRAFT T1 ATU - Factory Built
I have a Elecraft T1 (factory built) for sale - I used it ounce, Non smoking user. Sell for $125 shipped in the US - Paypal OK - ADD 3% for fees. First responder that tells me they will take it will be the lucky new owner! Thanks much Dan - NB1C __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] T1 ATU remote operation?
I have a T1 ATU and would like to use it remotely. Is there a way to do it without the added wires for the TUNE control? Mt SGC ATU has the ability to automatically tune when the SWR is above a certain limit. Is there a way to make the T1 operate the same way? Larry n0sa -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/T1-ATU-remote-operation-tp7579744.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] FS: Elecraft T1 ATU
Hi, All, I'm selling my Elecraft T1 portable ATU. I purchased this T1 directly from Elecraft, factory assembled tested. This T1 is in excellent condition and operates perfectly. Though I can't identify any obvious scratches, assume it could have some very slight ones. Selling because both my KX1 and KX3 now have built-in ATUs. I only used this tuner for a couple of months, so it has seen very little use. Comes with owner's manual and original 9V battery (that still works)! Non-smoking home. It will be packaged carefully and shipped USPS Priority Mail. Price: $145 (shipping included) PayPal. If interested, please reply off-list. Thanks! Cheers, Tom K4SWL __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Fwd: FS: Elecraft T1 ATU
The Elecraft T1 ATU has sold. Thanks! Thomas K4SWL *Hi, All, I'm selling my Elecraft T1 portable ATU. I purchased this T1 directly from Elecraft, factory assembled tested. This T1 is in excellent condition and operates perfectly. Though I can't identify any obvious scratches, assume it could have some very slight ones. Selling because both my KX1 and KX3 now have built-in ATUs. I only used this tuner for a couple of months, so it has seen very little use. Comes with owner's manual and original 9V battery (that still works)! Non-smoking home. It will be packaged carefully and shipped USPS Priority Mail. Price: $145 (shipping included) PayPal.* * * *If interested, please reply off-list. Thanks! Cheers, Tom K4SWL* __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] T1 ATU problem?
I have been hooking up a G5RV Lite I am hooking up the antenna twin lead balanced line to an elecraft wideband HF balun I built which then connects to a little Opek SWR meter then to the T1 which connects to the radio, either a K1 or an FT817ND. (Described in reverse direction.) At first, I had a problem with a short coax connector that was not conducting due to a broken PL259 connector so I removed that converted it to have two lugs to connect the balun to the end of the antenna feed line's SO239. When I put it all together at home started testing conductivity ruling out any shorts or breaks, I noticed conductivity between the shields the center feed. I finally isolated it to the T1 wherever I test the outer to the inner leads of the BNC connectors, there is no resistance they all conduct. Something is wrong with this recently purchased pre-built unit, wouldn't you agree? I just want to be sure about this before I call /or send it back for some repair so I thought I would check to see what anyone thinks or might suggest. I don't think there is anything that I could have done to cause this but one never knows, I guess. Could I have done something to create a short in the tuner by hooking it up improperly at one time or another, possibly? I would hate to think that these instruments are that 'fragile' but then again I am not that experienced, yet, being a ‘rookie’. Any suggestions or comments are welcome. Thank you, *Sidney * * * (K6DMT)** __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] T1 ATU problem?
Sidney- This is normal. Take a look at the schematic for the T1 tuner (in the manual) and you will see there is a DC path through transformer T2. BTW- you can not/should not put your swr meter between the T1 tuner and the antenna. It rightly belongs between the tuner and the radio. GL, Bruce, N1RX __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] T1 ATU problem?
BTW Sidney- If you are using the K1 you bought from me, keep in mind it has the KAT1 internal tuner. There should generally be no need to use the T1 with it. If you -do- use the T1, remember to put the internal tuner in the K1 in CLS or CLP mode. See page 11 of the KAT1 manual I provided. 73, Bruce, N1RX __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] WTB Elecraft T1 ATU
Hi.. I'm looking for a T1ATU to buy. Tnx 73s Noel Anderson. W1XB Pse contact me off-list noel58...@gmail.com Sent from my iPhone __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] T1 ATU problem
Hi Elecrafters, Something strange (?) is happening with my T1 and a Yaesu FT817 using the cable. I tune a band, work it, then go to another one. If I return to the previous band, the yellow light is flashing instead of the green one, as it is supposed to do. Sometime, the green light flashes ok, but not always. Any idea? 73 de Pierre VE2PID ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] T1 ATU and Sierra
I have an Elecraft T1 ATU that I am trying to make work with a Wilderness Radio QRP rig. I am new to using ATU's and have what might be a simple question: Am I doing it right? I made an end-fed antenna that is often called the W3EDP antenna. 85 feet long with a 17ft counterpoise. I hooked it up for the first time today and tried to get it to tune on 40M. I could hear the relays clicking and clicking. Finally, it seemed to get a 2:1 or so match. I think. To do the tuning I would hit the PWR/TUN button on the T1 until it flashed green. Then I would hit both speed buttons on the Sierra to put it into Tune mode. The relays would click, click and click some more. Finally the T1 would settle down and then I would kick the Sierra out of Tune mode. Is this the correct procedure? When the Sierra is tuning it shows the estimated Watts out. As the T1 relays are clicking I can see the Watts out number changing on the Sierra. I would see it move around. Often, the final match would show up as a very number of watts out ( 1) but I had seen higher numbers while it was tuning. Am I doing this correct and is there a way to validate that it has tuned it OK? Thanks in advance. 73 de Keith KB3ILS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Antennas for use with Elecraft T1 ATU
Hi from Fargo, ND and many camp sites. This is the antenna I have used for the last 5 years in my camper with I feel excellent results. It is a 44 foot doublet (22 feet) on each side of center) with a feed line of 22 feet of 450 ohm window line. The center is supported by a 23 foot telescoping painter's handle with a hook at the top made out of an old paint roller. The ends are supported by 10 foot lengths of 3/4th inch PVC pipes to make an inverted vee. This loads well with either my KAT2 or KAT100. I added a W2DU 1 to 1 balun and I find the antenna so stable the settings the tuner picked from the last camp site usually work at the next camp site with no changes. I have a 1 foot jumper of RG8 between the tuner and the balun. This works as is on all bands except 30 and 80 meters. On 30 meters 22 feet of feed line is a bad length and transforms the low impedance of what is a 30 meter dipole to a high impedance which gives the tuner trouble. I cut a jumper of 22 feet of 300 ohm twin lead and wound it into a coil with a 7 inch diameter. All my twin lead feed lines use alligator clips so to use 30 meters I just clip the additional 22 feet loop of feed line in series with the 450 ohm window line. I have 22 foot extensions I can add to each side of the doublet to make it 88 feet for use on our 75 meter SSB net. These extensions have to be tied to a tree or other support but the 44 ft doublet is self supporting by the 23 foot painters handle on the hitch of my camper and the 10 foot PVC pipes which are supported by the rear bumper of the camper and the front bumper of my tow vehicle. If I want to work 160 meters or don't have a location where I can add the 22 foot extensions for 75 meters I have a loading coil and can tie the two sides of the 22 foot feed line together and use the loading coil to make a top loaded vertical which uses the frame of my camper as a counterpoise and that works about as well as a good mobile station. I used to use a home made full wave quarter wave vertical on 20 meters which used the frame of the camper as a counterpoise. I thought it worked well but in 2001 the 44 ft doublet was brought up here on this reflector. I built it and used both antennas for just two camping trips. The doublet was so much better than the vertical that I quit taking the vertical along. I have run QRP battery 1B for the last 5 field days and the weak point is me as an operator and not my station or antenna. Last week end I was set up at Fort Ransom State Park, ND. I worked W1PID on 20 running 3 watts on a K1 and 88 foot doublet (I was running the 100 watts). I QSYed to 30 meters and ran 5 watts on my end and had a 25 minute QSO with K4AKC who was running a K1 and 4 Watts to a G5RV. When we got done CU2BV from the Azores called me and we had a 15 minute QSO down at 13 wpm and I was still running 5 watts. I have been camping and portable for about 39 years and used many different rigs and antennas but nothing I ever had before has worked as well with as little effort on my part as the K2/100 and 44 ft doublet. I hope more of you try this antenna and have as good luck with it as I have had. 73 from North Dakota where it is now 94 degrees F headed to -30 degrees F in just 6 months. Ken W0CZ [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Antennas for use with Elecraft T1 ATU
I'm a T1 owner and I use the 44 and 88 foot dipoles. I can say with experiance that everything Ken says is true. You just can't do better. 73 Karl Kenneth A. Christiansen wrote: Hi from Fargo, ND and many camp sites. This is the antenna I have used for the last 5 years in my camper with I feel excellent results. It is a 44 foot doublet (22 feet) on each side of center) with a feed line of 22 feet of 450 ohm window line. The center is supported by a 23 foot telescoping painter's handle with a hook at the top made out of an old paint roller. The ends are supported by 10 foot lengths of 3/4th inch PVC pipes to make an inverted vee. This loads well with either my KAT2 or KAT100. I added a W2DU 1 to 1 balun and I find the antenna so stable the settings the tuner picked from the last camp site usually work at the next camp site with no changes. I have a 1 foot jumper of RG8 between the tuner and the balun. This works as is on all bands except 30 and 80 meters. On 30 meters 22 feet of feed line is a bad length and transforms the low impedance of what is a 30 meter dipole to a high impedance which gives the tuner trouble. I cut a jumper of 22 feet of 300 ohm twin lead and wound it into a coil with a 7 inch diameter. All my twin lead feed lines use alligator clips so to use 30 meters I just clip the additional 22 feet loop of feed line in series with the 450 ohm window line. I have 22 foot extensions I can add to each side of the doublet to make it 88 feet for use on our 75 meter SSB net. These extensions have to be tied to a tree or other support but the 44 ft doublet is self supporting by the 23 foot painters handle on the hitch of my camper and the 10 foot PVC pipes which are supported by the rear bumper of the camper and the front bumper of my tow vehicle. If I want to work 160 meters or don't have a location where I can add the 22 foot extensions for 75 meters I have a loading coil and can tie the two sides of the 22 foot feed line together and use the loading coil to make a top loaded vertical which uses the frame of my camper as a counterpoise and that works about as well as a good mobile station. I used to use a home made full wave quarter wave vertical on 20 meters which used the frame of the camper as a counterpoise. I thought it worked well but in 2001 the 44 ft doublet was brought up here on this reflector. I built it and used both antennas for just two camping trips. The doublet was so much better than the vertical that I quit taking the vertical along. I have run QRP battery 1B for the last 5 field days and the weak point is me as an operator and not my station or antenna. Last week end I was set up at Fort Ransom State Park, ND. I worked W1PID on 20 running 3 watts on a K1 and 88 foot doublet (I was running the 100 watts). I QSYed to 30 meters and ran 5 watts on my end and had a 25 minute QSO with K4AKC who was running a K1 and 4 Watts to a G5RV. When we got done CU2BV from the Azores called me and we had a 15 minute QSO down at 13 wpm and I was still running 5 watts. I have been camping and portable for about 39 years and used many different rigs and antennas but nothing I ever had before has worked as well with as little effort on my part as the K2/100 and 44 ft doublet. I hope more of you try this antenna and have as good luck with it as I have had. 73 from North Dakota where it is now 94 degrees F headed to -30 degrees F in just 6 months. Ken W0CZ [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Antennas for use with Elecraft T1 ATU
Thanks to everyone who provided advice on my antenna question. My Elecraft balun kit showed up today and I am going to get it built. I will try out of some of the ideas from this message thread and hopefully get some good outside operating in over the next month. I think I have everything I need. If you hear an unsteady CW fist and a signal that sounds like the antenna is waving around in the wind.check to see if it is me! If the prosigns are messed upthen it is even more likely that it is me. 73 de Keith KB3ILS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Antennas for use with Elecraft T1 ATU
Kieth, A dipole cut for 40 meters will provide a high feedpoint impedance on 20 - and the L network used in the Elecraft tuners do not do high impedances very well. Of course, all that does depend on your feedline length as well as the flattop length - the feedline will act as an impedance transformer when it has SWR on the feedline, so unless you can state the length and impedance and velocity factor of your feedline, we cannot answer your question with any degree of certainty. I use an antenna cut at 22 feet each side of center with a 25 foot feedline for portable use, and it works FB on all bands except that it is marginal on 30 meters - adding an additional 10 feet of feedline allows it to tune 30 meters just fine with the Elecraft L network tuners. I deploy my portable antenna as a horizontal dipole, or and inverted VEE, or as a vertical with a single radial, whichever is convenient for the location I have at the moment - I do carry a 32 foot collapsible mast to deploy the antenna if I have no other suitable supports. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Thanks for the quick response. For a field dipole I could use that in an inverted V format I assume? I did purchase a collapsable pole to try some of those out. If I used ladder line or twinleadwould I need a balun in-line before connecting to the T1? If I understood you correctly, I could cut the dipole for 40M and then use the T1 to use it on other bands. For my base setup I use a dipole setup and it works well on multiple bandsI am just not real clear on how to make this work on a portable setup with the T1 ATU. Is there any special twinlead or ladderline I should stock for these projects? I hope to try a bunch of antenna designs for different locations and learn from them...so I may as well stock some wire. I think a recent QRP Quaterly that had a plan for a portable vertical...I will check it out. Thanks again for all the advice. 73 de Keith KB3ILS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Antennas for use with Elecraft T1 ATU
Craig, Thanks for the info. I checked out the Elecraft baluns you mention and will order one up. This sounds like a reasonable size setup for the times when I can get up a center pole to support the antenna. Is there a preferred height for the apex or do I just go as high as I can? I do have the 80M band module for the Sierra. Is it possible to make the doublet long enough to cover 80M and down? 73 de Keith KB3ILS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Antennas for use with Elecraft T1 ATU
Don Wilhelm wrote: Kieth, A dipole cut for 40 meters will provide a high feedpoint impedance on 20 - and the L network used in the Elecraft tuners do not do high impedances very well. I find the T1 does very well with a very high impedance. I end feed 1/2 wave wire connected right to the T1 with a counterpoise and it matches right up! I ran a test and the T1 can match a 4700 ohm resistor. So it's not bad with high resistance. 73 Karl Of course, all that does depend on your feedline length as well as the flattop length - the feedline will act as an impedance transformer when it has SWR on the feedline, so unless you can state the length and impedance and velocity factor of your feedline, we cannot answer your question with any degree of certainty. I use an antenna cut at 22 feet each side of center with a 25 foot feedline for portable use, and it works FB on all bands except that it is marginal on 30 meters - adding an additional 10 feet of feedline allows it to tune 30 meters just fine with the Elecraft L network tuners. I deploy my portable antenna as a horizontal dipole, or and inverted VEE, or as a vertical with a single radial, whichever is convenient for the location I have at the moment - I do carry a 32 foot collapsible mast to deploy the antenna if I have no other suitable supports. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Thanks for the quick response. For a field dipole I could use that in an inverted V format I assume? I did purchase a collapsable pole to try some of those out. If I used ladder line or twinleadwould I need a balun in-line before connecting to the T1? If I understood you correctly, I could cut the dipole for 40M and then use the T1 to use it on other bands. For my base setup I use a dipole setup and it works well on multiple bandsI am just not real clear on how to make this work on a portable setup with the T1 ATU. Is there any special twinlead or ladderline I should stock for these projects? I hope to try a bunch of antenna designs for different locations and learn from them...so I may as well stock some wire. I think a recent QRP Quaterly that had a plan for a portable vertical...I will check it out. Thanks again for all the advice. 73 de Keith KB3ILS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Antennas for use with Elecraft T1 ATU
Don, Right now my feedline length is 0. I have not built the antenna yet. I work about 20 mins from HRO and hope to swing over there at lunch. I have seen ladder line there before. It sounds like the 22 feet per side is a common length that works for people. I will start with that. It also sounds like I should test different feedline lengths as well to get the best setup. I also like the idea that was posted about using Anderson Power Pole connecters to extend the dipole for good 80M coverage. I have those lying around and will see about giving that a try. I have a bunch of wire ready to cut to various lengths to try this stuff out. The goal is to get a couple of antennas built so I can operate outside and hone the CW that I have been practicing. After that...I can move into experimentation mode. With your 25 foot feedline, are you using open ladder line or some twinlead from Radio Shack etc? Thanks for all the advice. I am learning a lot. 73 de Keith KB3ILS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Antennas for use with Elecraft T1 ATU
Keith, KB3ILS wrote: It sounds like the 22 feet per side is a common length that works for people. I will start with that. It also sounds like I should test different feedline lengths as well to get the best setup. -- Another approach many use to get around an out-of-range impedance on some bands is to put an Elecraft BL2 balun at the rig end of the feeder and switch it between 1:1 and 4:1 impedance ratios as needed. That has the same effect as changing the length of the feedline. I've used that antenna with excellent results on 40-10 meters. It was between 25 and 30 above the ground. At that height it's a FB short-skip antenna (NVIS) on 40 that gave me excellent signals out to 1,000 miles or so with the occasional contact well beyond that when cdx were just right. On 20 meters, where it was almost 1/2 wave up (the optimum height for a half wave horizontal antenna), and above I worked the world without hesitation whenever the bands were open/ 44 feet (22 each side of the feed point) is a good compromise length for a doublet 7MHz and above. You don't start to see significant loss of radiated signal until the radiator gets shorter than 1/4 wavelength, or about 33 feet on 40 meters, as long as you make up the missing radiator length in the feedline (keep in mind that the feeder has two wires, so 15 feet of feeder equals 30 feet of radiator). So 22 feet gets you a fairly short doublet for easier installation that is still virtually as good as a full half wave on the lowest band, and is as good or better than a dipole on the higher frequencies. I think that length became popular, in part, due to the work by Cebik in an article he wrote about his ideal multiband dipole (see http://www.cebik.com/radio.html). L.B. Cebik's (W4RNL) web site is a treasure trove of excellent data and observations about antennas for anyone tinkering with them! Cebik observed that is the ideal length that provides the must useful radiation pattern up through 10 meters. Longer antennas start breaking up their pattern in ways that aren't always helpful on the higher frequencies where they are well over one wavelength long. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Antennas for use with Elecraft T1 ATU
Kieth, This is a portable field antenna for me, and I have made the feedline from a pair of twisted #22 teflon insulated wires. Some years back, someone on QRP-L did some tests on various feedlines, and this turned out to have good loss characteristics, and it is flexible and lightweight which are two major advantages for my use. It rolls up nicely and the teflon insulation helps keep it from tangling and snarling on other objects. YMMV. Jim N2GO is my source of the teflon wire, he posts occasionally on QRP-L. If I were using either a 44 or 88 foot flatop as a permanent antenna, I would do it differently. I would use #14 wire for the radiating section and well positioned 450 ohm ladder line (or homebrew parallel line spaced about 4 inches apart) for the feedline. The advantage of the 44 foot antenna is that you know that the radiation is broadside to the antenna and without side lobes for operation on 40 through 10 meters, and the 88 foot length is similar for 80 through 20 meters. Yes, it is only 2/3 of a half wave long on the lowest band, and is not as efficient there, but this is a multiband antenna, and some compromises must be made for any antenna, particularly a multiband one. In my case, I have accepted compromises both for portable usability and multi-band use, but 'it don't work too bad'! The feedline length of 25 feet is just what is convenient for my situation. The proper feedline length should always be 'long enough to reach from the shack to the antenna'! The feedline length will change the impedance seen at the shack end, but if your tuner will match that impedance, the exact value is unimportant. If you want information on how this impedance transformation works in laymen's terms, take a look at the Antenna, Transmission lines, and Tuners article on my website http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com - There really is no magic in antennas, it just seems that way at times especially if you do not know some basic principles - at least enough to be aware of the ridiculous claims made by some. The fact that someone worked DXCC in 2 months with a wet noodle does not say anything about the real characteristics of that antenna. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Right now my feedline length is 0. I have not built the antenna yet. I work about 20 mins from HRO and hope to swing over there at lunch. I have seen ladder line there before. It sounds like the 22 feet per side is a common length that works for people. I will start with that. It also sounds like I should test different feedline lengths as well to get the best setup. I also like the idea that was posted about using Anderson Power Pole connecters to extend the dipole for good 80M coverage. I have those lying around and will see about giving that a try. I have a bunch of wire ready to cut to various lengths to try this stuff out. The goal is to get a couple of antennas built so I can operate outside and hone the CW that I have been practicing. After that...I can move into experimentation mode. With your 25 foot feedline, are you using open ladder line or some twinlead from Radio Shack etc? Thanks for all the advice. I am learning a lot. 73 de Keith KB3ILS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Antennas for use with Elecraft T1 ATU
I find the T1 does very well with a very high impedance. I end feed 1/2 wave wire connected right to the T1 with a counterpoise and it matches right up! I ran a test and the T1 can match a 4700 ohm resistor. So it's not bad with high resistance. 73 Karl == I wonder if an end fed half wave antenna is a high resistance if a counterpoise is used. This actually would look like a 3/4 wave (with a quarter wave counterpoise) offset fed antenna with no feedline. This would be a resonant antenna with a few hundred ohms at the feedpoint. Most of the radiation should be from the half wave section so should be an efficient antenna. 73 Rick Dettinger K7MW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Antennas for use with Elecraft T1 ATU
Rick, Like everything else It all depends... In your particular case, it depends on how the elements are oriented - and that includes the counterpoise. It also depends on the proximity of ground and other objects. Is the counterpoise in the air, or is it laying on the ground? That is the stuff that antenna modeling is made of - but modeling has limits if you do not feed it proper information, a wire isolated in space behaves differently than one 20 feet off the ground. Often it is easier to just put it up and measure it - an electrical halfwavelength of feedline will repeat the feedpoint impedance of the antenna, so yes, you can use your antenna analyzer to measure it with the antenna in the air. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I wonder if an end fed half wave antenna is a high resistance if a counterpoise is used. This actually would look like a 3/4 wave (with a quarter wave counterpoise) offset fed antenna with no feedline. This would be a resonant antenna with a few hundred ohms at the feedpoint. Most of the radiation should be from the half wave section so should be an efficient antenna. 73 Rick Dettinger K7MW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Antennas for use with Elecraft T1 ATU
I have an Elecraft T1 ATU and am looking for some simple antenna ideas for using it with my QRP rigs including my Wilderness Radio Sierra and SWL-20. I am new to this outdoor portable QRP operations...so I apologize if the questions seem very basic. I would like a setup that uses the T1 and is easy to deploy at a park or when camping. I have been doing a lot of reading on the W3EDP antenna and think I will start with that. Is this a good place to start? It seems like a lot of people somehow manage to cut the right length of wire and shoot it over a tree and make contacts. Then there are other articles that talk about cutting the wires to exact lenghts for performance. Then there is another article explaining that there is no magic in the length defined by the previous article. Any and all advice on where to start would be helpful. I have a lot of band modules in the Sierra and would like an antenna that lets me move around a bit. Thanks in advance 73 de Keith KB3ILS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Antennas for use with Elecraft T1 ATU
Keith, the absolute all around easy, and works every time, antenna is the simple balanced dipole; a half wave long for the band in use. You can use a tuner with it and ladder line or TV twin lead feeder on higher bands. The other simple portable antenna is the loaded ground plane. You can do 20, thru 10m with a simple coil in the base of a vertical about 9 feet tall. You can use simple, four, zip cord radials with it. One such commercial version of this is called The Minuteman antenna and is on the web. Off center feeds can work, but then in some earth conditions you may have RF on the rig chassis problems, and they may not work well. They have the disadvantage of bringing the high current antenna feedpoint right to the radio, increasing the chance for lossy coupling to nearby conductors. -Stuart K5KVH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Antennas for use with Elecraft T1 ATU
Stuart, Thanks for the quick response. For a field dipole I could use that in an inverted V format I assume? I did purchase a collapsable pole to try some of those out. If I used ladder line or twinleadwould I need a balun in-line before connecting to the T1? If I understood you correctly, I could cut the dipole for 40M and then use the T1 to use it on other bands. For my base setup I use a dipole setup and it works well on multiple bandsI am just not real clear on how to make this work on a portable setup with the T1 ATU. Is there any special twinlead or ladderline I should stock for these projects? I hope to try a bunch of antenna designs for different locations and learn from them...so I may as well stock some wire. I think a recent QRP Quaterly that had a plan for a portable vertical...I will check it out. Thanks again for all the advice. 73 de Keith KB3ILS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Antennas for use with Elecraft T1 ATU
For a field dipole I could use that in an inverted V format I assume? I did purchase a collapsable pole to try some of those out. If I used ladder line or twinleadwould I need a balun in-line before connecting to the T1? If I understood you correctly, I could cut the dipole for 40M and then use the T1 to use it on other bands. You're on the right track Keith. If 40 is the lowest frequency you normally will use, then I would recommend you make your doublet 44 ft long (22 ft each side) and feed it with any twinlead or ladder line. The exact impedance of the feedline isn't important. The inverted V configuration will work well and is very convenient with a single pole for supporting the center. Put one of the Elecraft 4:1 baluns at the T1 output and connect the feedline to it and you will easily be able to tune all bands from 40 to 10. You really don't want a resonant full size 40 meter dipole as it will be difficult/impossible to tune on 20. I think you will enjoy this setup. 73 ... Craig AC0DS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] T1 ATU
I tried to use my Elecraft T1 ATU this weekend at a special event station outing on Jamestown Island, VA as an adjunct to the main station. I used my NC2030 on 20 mtrs, and ATS-3 on 40 Mtrs, both about 5 watts output, or that was to be the plan. The antenna was pretty poor, an end fed wire of roughly 100 feet sloping from about 10 feet up to about 30 to 35 feet, with about 20 feet of counterpoise wire under it. I used a BNC to banana adapter on the antenna output of the T1 with the antenna to red, counterpoise to black. Initially the T1 tuned this wire on 20 mtrs to an SWR of 1.0:1, according to the Info function of the T1. I made one contact on 20 to a station in FL, but the band conditions weren't too good at the time, so I switched over to 40. The tuner refused to tune this situation. It would not even start a tune cycledead silence, no relay activity. I tried different frequencies on 40 with same luck, and now the Info function of the T1 showed an SWR of 9.9:1. I went back to 20, but this time it refused to tune here either, stuck at 9.9:1 SWR. So I packed it all up for the day. When I got back home, I tried the T1 with the ATS-3, and my K2 in CAL S mode, and it tuned up the dipoles and loop antenna here just as always, first time. My question is, if the SWR of the random wire in the field was so high that the T1 couldn't handle it, would it not even attempt to tune it? I would have thought it would have searched around for some time, then stopped at it's best shot. Does this T1 sound like a normal one, or is there something intermittent going on with it? Just hoping someone out there has had a similar experience and could offer a bit of advice on what's going on. Thanks, Ken, NU4I ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] T1 ATU used in attic environment
Hi All, I am considering using my T1 to tune a couple of attic antennas, a 40 mtr dipole with drooping ends, and a horizontal loop of about 130 feet total length, as close to the feed point of each antenna as possible to reduce losses in the coax from shack to attic. I would plan to use a relay to select between the antennas, the placement of same which would keep the coax length to about 6 feet after the relay to one antenna, and zero feet to the other. Directly prior to the relay (toward the transceiver) I would place the T1. I would use a small reed relay mounted in a pill box or something similar, to plug into the external tune jack on the side of the T1 to initiate the TUNE cycle, and observe the SWR on a separate SWR meter in the basement shack to know when the tune-up is finished. My concern is the heat buildup in the attic during our hot, sticky Virginia summers. Has anyone else tried to do this, and how did the T1 take the heat? It's a great little tuner, but I doubt it was designed to take 120+ degree heat for extended periods. Any thoughts and observations will be appreciated. BTW, 10 watts from my K2 will be the max expected power for this setup to handle. 72, Ken, NU4I ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] T1 ATU used in attic environment
Being an engineer I am sure you enjoy putting these kinds of pieces together. OTOH, the Ameritron 4-position switch placed in your attic will switch up to four antennas. The control voltage to activate the switch rides on the coax. One coax, four antennas. Quality RG213 and your db loss ain't that much. de Joe, aa4nn - Hi All, I am considering using my T1 to tune a couple of attic antennas, a 40 mtr dipole with drooping ends, and a horizontal loop of about 130 feet total length, as close to the feed point of each antenna as possible to reduce losses in the coax from shack to attic. I would plan to use a relay to select between the antennas, the placement of same which would keep the coax length to about 6 feet after the relay to one antenna, and zero feet to the other. Directly prior to the relay (toward the transceiver) I would place the T1. I would use a small reed relay mounted in a pill box or something similar, to plug into the external tune jack on the side of the T1 to initiate the TUNE cycle, and observe the SWR on a separate SWR meter in the basement shack to know when the tune-up is finished. My concern is the heat buildup in the attic during our hot, sticky Virginia summers. Has anyone else tried to do this, and how did the T1 take the heat? It's a great little tuner, but I doubt it was designed to take 120+ degree heat for extended periods. Any thoughts and observations will be appreciated. BTW, 10 watts from my K2 will be the max expected power for this setup to handle. 72, Ken, NU4I ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] T1 ATU Battery storage tip
This last weekend I finished construction on my T1 auto-tuner. The manual recommends that for transport that you reverse the battery in the storage compartment. I tried that and was not real comfortable with hearing the battery flop around as I walked around with the T1 in my fanny pack. I have inserted a small strip 1 of magnetic tape with an adhesive backing into the battery compartment. So far it does not seem to have any adverse effect on the T1's performance. The magnetic tape is the type you can find in small rolls at any hobby or craft shop. For what it is worth I figured I would pass on the tip. 73, KI4DGH Chuck Gehring ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] T1 ATU Kit Build Help
Hello, I am a fairly new builder. I have been doing some soldering on and off for about a year. I managed my way through a NorCal keyer and a SWL 20+. I have a few more kits here to build and practice on...then I hope to order up a K1. Right now I am working on a T1 ATU kit. I am at the point where most of the components are on the boards and the directions have me doing the resistance checks on the control board assembly. I am completely new to using a DMM for the most part. I have played with an analog one a bit. I have also started to read through the RS book, Using Your Meter. I am trying to do the requested measurements and all three seem to be wrong. Either I did some bad soldering (possible) or I could be using the DMM incorrectly. I would love some guidance on this. The first check has me test the resistance on C19 and look for a reading of between 137 K-ohms and 148 K-ohms. Then I am supposed to press S2 and check the resistance again and see if it goes to between 117 K-Ohms and 135 K-Ohms. When I do the first reading by putting the test leads on the leads of C19, I get a reading of 142. That seems good. Then I hit S2 and check the resistance again...I still get a reading of about 142. That seems bad. What is the best place to put the test leads? On the underside of the board where the leads came through to be soldered or? The next test has me test the resistance between D3 anode and the - pad near D7. I don't seem to get a reading when I try it before or after I hit S2. When I try the Diode testI don't see any numbers change on the DMM when i test the various pins it asks me too. Soany ideas? Is it my soldering or my DMM skills (or both!) that are causing me the problem. Any help would be appreciated. 73 de Keith KB3ILS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] T1 ATU CUSTOMER NOTICE: Removing protective film from the label
The label supplied with the T1 ATU has a very thin protective film layer that should be removed after the label is installed. If the film is left on, the label will have a dull appearance, may have small bubbles trapped beneath it, and will be susceptible to scratching. The underlying label has a much nicer appearance and is highly scratch-resistant. IF YOU HAVE THE KIT VERSION: The label supplied with the kit version of the T1 has the protective film in place. You must removed it as described below. IF YOU HAVE THE FACTORY-ASSEMBLED VERSION: Factory-assembled T1s are now being shipped with the film removed. However, the first 50 or so assembled T1s shipped still had the film. If you ordered an assembled T1, examine the label carefully to see if the film is present. The film is actually there if you can take your fingernail and gently leave a scratch on the surface. REMOVING THE FILM: You can use a fingernail or a fine-tipped tool such as a small jeweler's screwdriver or plastic tuning tool. Don't use a knife or razor blade, since you might nick the label itself. Place your fingernail or the tip of the tool on the surface of the label at one corner, then rub gently until the film starts to peel off. You can then use tweezers or long-nose pliers to pull the film back far enough to grasp with your fingers. Pull with a steady pressure to remove it. 73, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] T1 ATU CUSTOMER NOTICE: Removing protective film from the label
In a message dated 6/1/2005 11:05:49 AM US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: IF YOU HAVE THE KIT VERSION: The label supplied with the kit version of the T1 has the protective film in place. You must removed it as described below. Done! Didn't even know it was there. Dave W7AQK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft T1 ATU passes brief stress-tests at 100 W
The T1 is rated at 20 W SSB/CW and 10 W FM/AM/digital modes, but we wanted to make sure it could survive brief operation at much higher power levels. One of our field testers set up the tuner on all bands using three different antennas, then transmitted at 100 watts intermittently. As expected, the T37-size cores in the T1's SWR bridge became quite warm and eventually saturated. However, they recovered quickly after they were allowed to cool, and there was no damage to the unit. Another of our field-testers did extensive testing at 40 watts to simulate the use of back-packing amps. The T1's SWR bridge transformers again got very warm, but did not saturate until he increased the duty cycle (by going key down for longer intervals). These results suggest that operation at the T1's rated power of 20 W peak will be quite safe, even with high-SWR loads. It's nice to know that the risk of damage is low if the operator accidentally transmits at 100 W, or might require brief use of the T1 at up to 40 W in an emergency communications situation. 73, Wayne, N6KR Eric, WA6HHQ --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft T1 ATU passes brief stress-tests at 100 W
In a message dated 3/5/2005 10:49:28 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: One of our field testers set up the tuner on all bands using three different antennas, then transmitted at 100 watts intermittently. Wayne: You meant: One of our intrepid field testers courageously transmitted at 100 watts. 73 DX, Rob, W3DX K1 0005, K2 0005, KX1 0005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft T1 ATU FAQ: #1 question answer
Hi all, The frequently-asked-questions page for our new T1 antenna tuner will be up in a few hours. Meanwhile, by popular demand, here's the first Q, and first A. 73, Wayne N6KR * * * Q: How does the T1 compare to Elecraft’s other low-power ATUs – the KAT2, KAT1, and KXAT1? A: The T1 is intended for stand-alone use with QRP kits, home-built rigs, and factory-assembled transceivers such as the Yaesu FT-817, Icom IC-703, Ten-Tec Argonaut, and SG2020. It also includes coverage of 6 meters. In contrast, our other QRP ATUs are fully integrated with specific Elecraft HF transceivers, providing internal installation, instant ATU band switching, menu access to ATU information, and additional features. For example, the KAT2 has dual antenna jacks, per-antenna memories, direct readout of power or SWR on the K2’s LCD, and extended matching range on the lowest bands. All three of our internal ATU options also act as the SWR bridge/wattmeter for their respective transceivers, which ensures good power-setting accuracy. --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
