Re: [Elecraft] W1 Programming???

[David Woolley]

When you are interacting with a USB thumb drive, you are normally 
interacting with a USB mass storage class device, not with raw USB. 
Most cheap USB boltons to hardware are done with the communications 
class, and emulate an asynchronous serial port (although some may use 
the human interface device (mouse/keyboard) class.


As such, the ability to write code for the thumb drive doesn't mean you 
can use the same code on the wattmeter, even though the chances are that 
the USB side can be treated as though it were something else.


--
David Woolley
Owner K2 06123.

On 05/09/2020 01:57, kevinr wrote:
I just wrote a little code using Posix standards under Ubuntu with g++ 
for my compiler.  Looks like USB is treated as a normal stream of 
characters.  The most difficult part was finding my USB thumb drive in 
the file system.



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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Programming???

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

I have successfully used an Arduino to talk to a W2. Like Bruce I could not
get it to work with SoftwareSerial, only the hardware Serial port would
work. I have it working with an Uno, a Nano and a Mega all using the Serial
port. Lest you are tempted to use the hardware serial ports Serial1, Serial2
or Serial3 on the Mega, they will also will not work.

I did not test with a W1 but based on what has been described here I expect
it behaves the same as the W2.

Unfortunately the same Serial port is used to download the program via USB,
so you need to disconnect the W2 (or W1) when doing downloads.

73,
Lou   W2ROW




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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Programming???

[K1FFX]

And for trying out W1 commands and seeing what the expected response is, it's
handy to
use a terminal emulator that will talk over a serial (or serial via USB)
port.  I use 
putty for this purpose (and actually never built a program ... I just fire
up putty
when I want to get a more precise power readout from the W1).

I played around with trying to build an Arduino version .. thought it would
be fun
to display W1 output on an LCD ... I used SoftwareSerial on the Arduino, but
never
succeeded in getting it to talk to the W1.

-   Bruce K1FFX




-
Bruce Rosen
K1FFX
K2/100 6982 KSB2 KAT100-1 KAF2 KIO2

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Programming???

[James Bennett via Elecraft]

Guys - thanks for the replies! I might have enough info to get started. That 
is, after the W1 gets here from Watsonville and I get it soldered together. 
I’ll be doing it in Xojo (based on Real Basic) and can port it to the Rpi 
and/or Linux should I ever got it working.

73 & thanks, Jim / W6JHB

> On Sep 4, 2020, at 2:46 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> I just ordered the nifty little W1 Wattmeter. I see that it can supply serial 
> data to an external program, and that there is a free download of a Visual 
> Basic program on the Elecraft web site. I use a Mac and a Raspberry Pi and do 
> not have VB on either, nor do I want to. I’m fairly proficient in several 
> other programming languages and am thinking that I might “roll my own”, 
> starting on the Mac.
> 
> I know that this is a stretch, but has anyone done this? I know - hahahaha… 
> OK, how about anyone out there who has read serial data (coming over USB with 
> the Elecraft Serial->USB cable? Any pointers or links to documentation on how 
> to do that?
> 
> Jim / W6JHB
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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Programming???

[kevinr]

I just wrote a little code using Posix standards under Ubuntu with g++ 
for my compiler.  Looks like USB is treated as a normal stream of 
characters.  The most difficult part was finding my USB thumb drive in 
the file system.  Under Ubuntu it is in the /media folder.  Once I 
located it I was able to read from it, and write to it, using 
straightforward code.  The W1 wattmeter should react the same way.  
Write a trap to catch the data packet then a little code to parse it 
however you like.  I did not know it would be so simple: open(), read(), 
write(), close().


Since Macs are running Linux, with enhancements, writing code to catch 
the wattmeter's data stream should not be difficult.  I assume you can 
send it commands too.  You will need to determine how a data packet is 
formed but that is part of the fun.


   73 and GL,

   Kevin.  KD5ONS


On 9/4/20 2:46 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft wrote:

I just ordered the nifty little W1 Wattmeter. I see that it can supply serial 
data to an external program, and that there is a free download of a Visual 
Basic program on the Elecraft web site. I use a Mac and a Raspberry Pi and do 
not have VB on either, nor do I want to. I’m fairly proficient in several other 
programming languages and am thinking that I might “roll my own”, starting on 
the Mac.

I know that this is a stretch, but has anyone done this? I know - hahahaha… OK, 
how about anyone out there who has read serial data (coming over USB with the 
Elecraft Serial->USB cable? Any pointers or links to documentation on how to do 
that?

Jim / W6JHB
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[Elecraft] W1 Programming???

[James Bennett via Elecraft]

I just ordered the nifty little W1 Wattmeter. I see that it can supply serial 
data to an external program, and that there is a free download of a Visual 
Basic program on the Elecraft web site. I use a Mac and a Raspberry Pi and do 
not have VB on either, nor do I want to. I’m fairly proficient in several other 
programming languages and am thinking that I might “roll my own”, starting on 
the Mac.

I know that this is a stretch, but has anyone done this? I know - hahahaha… OK, 
how about anyone out there who has read serial data (coming over USB with the 
Elecraft Serial->USB cable? Any pointers or links to documentation on how to do 
that?

Jim / W6JHB
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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Power Meter Checkout

[Brian Heinitz]

Don,

Good tip. I just checked again, making sure I wasn't in contact with anything, 
and got the same result. I confirmed the accuracy of my DMM against several 
resisters from my spare parts inventory, and received accurate readings in the 
lower resistance ranges, but did not have anything in higher resistance, or 
enough smaller resisters to string together in series to verify the 2M range 
setting of the meter. It is a no-name meter I bought from a hardware store a 
few years ago, and I have a new one on my wish list. But at this point I have 
no evidence that this meter is inaccurate.

Although I have not had the opportunity to connect the unit to an antenna 
system, the rest of the functionality tests out fine so far.

Thanks!

Brian Heinitz
KI7LKB
n17...@gmail.com

> On Apr 29, 2017, at 3:03 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Brian,
> 
> Were your fingers clear of the metal parts of the probes when you made that 
> resistance measurement?  If not, you may have been measuring the resistance 
> of your body.  That is common when making very high resistance measurement.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 4/29/2017 5:11 PM, Brian Heinitz wrote:
>> The only aspect of the checkout and calibration which was not normal was the 
>> resistance test across the battery holder terminal. With the power switch ON 
>> and no battery or DC power connected to the unit, the resistance should be > 
>> 1 megohm. With my DMM on 2M ohms selection, I receive a reading of 0.651, 
>> which is < 1 megohm.
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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Power Meter Kit -- For cost of mailing it to you.

[Phil Hystad]

Wow, that went fast!  Sorry, but the W1 Kit has been taken.

73, phil, K7PEH


> On Apr 29, 2017, at 3:16 PM, Phil Hystad  wrote:
> 
> I have a W1 power meter kit.  I started it a while back but was interrupted 
> and never got back to it.  It is way down low on my list of things to do plus 
> I have no strong usage for it anymore.  So I would like to GIVE it to someone 
> who would like to take over.  All parts and everything else is available, I 
> even have the marked spot that I had worked through on the kit build.
> 
> It is available to the first person who would like it.  If I can send in mail 
> for low cost, I will not bother charging for the cost of shipping.  
> Otherwise, would prefer help in cost of shipping.  It is very light though.
> 
> Contact me offline if interested.
> 
> 73, phil, K7PEH
> 
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[Elecraft] W1 Power Meter Kit -- For cost of mailing it to you.

[Phil Hystad]

I have a W1 power meter kit.  I started it a while back but was interrupted and 
never got back to it.  It is way down low on my list of things to do plus I 
have no strong usage for it anymore.  So I would like to GIVE it to someone who 
would like to take over.  All parts and everything else is available, I even 
have the marked spot that I had worked through on the kit build.

It is available to the first person who would like it.  If I can send in mail 
for low cost, I will not bother charging for the cost of shipping.  Otherwise, 
would prefer help in cost of shipping.  It is very light though.

Contact me offline if interested.

73, phil, K7PEH

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Power Meter Checkout

[Don Wilhelm]

Brian,

Were your fingers clear of the metal parts of the probes when you made 
that resistance measurement?  If not, you may have been measuring the 
resistance of your body.  That is common when making very high 
resistance measurement.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/29/2017 5:11 PM, Brian Heinitz wrote:

The only aspect of the checkout and calibration which was not normal was the 
resistance test across the battery holder terminal. With the power switch ON and no 
battery or DC power connected to the unit, the resistance should be > 1 megohm. 
With my DMM on 2M ohms selection, I receive a reading of 0.651, which is < 1 
megohm.

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[Elecraft] W1 Power Meter Checkout

[Brian Heinitz]

I completed assembly of the W1 and proceeded with the Checkout and Calibration. 

1. Power-up was normal, with the Forward Power LEDs, SWR LEDs, and Range LEDs 
properly flashing momentarily in sequence, then the 1.4 Range LED remains 
illuminated.

2. The calibration was normal. With power on the system, I adjusted the CAL 
potentiometer for 4.5 VDC between the ground test point and TP1.

The only aspect of the checkout and calibration which was not normal was the 
resistance test across the battery holder terminal. With the power switch ON 
and no battery or DC power connected to the unit, the resistance should be > 1 
megohm. With my DMM on 2M ohms selection, I receive a reading of 0.651, which 
is < 1 megohm.

I confirmed the orientation, location and values of all components, confirmed 
the quality of solder joints, and verified that there are no bridges. Unless I 
missed something, the assembly is correct.

Any thoughts on the resistance reading? Can I proceed with using the W1 or will 
this affect the accuracy of its operation?

Thanks!

Brian Heinitz
KI7LKB
n17...@gmail.com
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Re: [Elecraft] (W1) W1 Power/SWR Meter Question

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

When you turn off the switch on the meter you are cutting power.

When you turn of the PS you are probably watching the PS Caps bleed down to 
zero (hence the fade)



  From: stan levandowski <sjl...@optonline.net>
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2017 12:25 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] (W1) W1 Power/SWR Meter Question
   
Will I harm my W1 by leaving the W1 Power slide switch in the "on" 
position and turning the meter on and off with my station supply?

I'm asking because the tiny slide switch seems rather fragile and using 
it perhaps several times a day is sure to eventually break it.


I noticed that when I power the W1 off with the station supply, the 
green LED slowly decays; when turning the W1 off with the slide switch, 
the same LED goes out immediately.  That suggests that the 
microprocessor is involved in shutdown.


I know that all Elecraft transceivers require an orderly shutdown via 
their onboard processors.  Does this apply to my W1 also?  Am I looking 
for trouble here??


Thanks and 73,
Stan WB2LQF
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Re: [Elecraft] (W1) W1 Power/SWR Meter Question

[Chip Stratton]

I rewired mine so that it is always on when connected to external 12V, and
the switch just switches the battery into the circuit for portable
operation. I

 was always killing the battery by forgetting to turn it off when I powered
down the station, this takes care of that problem!

Chip
AE5KA

On Sat, Jan 14, 2017 at 12:25 PM, stan levandowski 
wrote:

> Will I harm my W1 by leaving the W1 Power slide switch in the "on"
> position and turning the meter on and off with my station supply?
>
> I'm asking because the tiny slide switch seems rather fragile and using it
> perhaps several times a day is sure to eventually break it.
>
>
> I noticed that when I power the W1 off with the station supply, the green
> LED slowly decays; when turning the W1 off with the slide switch, the same
> LED goes out immediately.  That suggests that the microprocessor is
> involved in shutdown.
>
>
> I know that all Elecraft transceivers require an orderly shutdown via
> their onboard processors.  Does this apply to my W1 also?  Am I looking for
> trouble here??
>
>
> Thanks and 73,
> Stan WB2LQF
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Re: [Elecraft] (W1) W1 Power/SWR Meter Question

[Don Wilhelm]

Stan,

That orderly shutdown process only applies to the K3, K3S, KX3, KX2, P3, 
PX3, KXPA100, KPA500, and KAT500.
The rest of the gear that Elecraft produces can be powered on/off with 
the station supply with no ill effects.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/14/2017 12:25 PM, stan levandowski wrote:

Will I harm my W1 by leaving the W1 Power slide switch in the "on"
position and turning the meter on and off with my station supply?


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[Elecraft] (W1) W1 Power/SWR Meter Question

[stan levandowski]

Will I harm my W1 by leaving the W1 Power slide switch in the "on" 
position and turning the meter on and off with my station supply?


I'm asking because the tiny slide switch seems rather fragile and using 
it perhaps several times a day is sure to eventually break it.



I noticed that when I power the W1 off with the station supply, the 
green LED slowly decays; when turning the W1 off with the slide switch, 
the same LED goes out immediately.  That suggests that the 
microprocessor is involved in shutdown.



I know that all Elecraft transceivers require an orderly shutdown via 
their onboard processors.  Does this apply to my W1 also?  Am I looking 
for trouble here??



Thanks and 73,
Stan WB2LQF
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Re: [Elecraft] W1

[Bob Novas]

Ed - What are you putting the output power to --  a dummy load or an
antenna?  Do you have the KAT internal antenna tuner?  If there is an SWR on
the antenna line that the KAT is tuning out for the transceiver, then the W1
will read forward power and reverse power on the antenna line whereas the K3
will read output power.  If you subtract the W1's reverse power reading from
the W1's forward power reading, does that compare to the K3's power reading?
Try reading the two power meters into a good dummy load. Then the K3 reading
and the W1 forward reading should be equal. Bob - W3DK

> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ed
> Lambert
> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2015 6:33 AM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] W1
> 
> It is probably necessary to restate my question with more precision.
> 
> 1.   I have calibrated the K3s using Elecraft K3 Utility
> 
> 2.   I have carefully calibrated the W1 using the DDM method with a
good
> quality DDM.
> 
> 3.   Comparing the results, I see that the W1 consistently calculates
> power about 1 dB higher than the K3s. Statistically, I would have expected
them
> to be closer. From the W1 specifications, and not knowing the K3s power
> accuracy specifications, it seems that, possibly, the K3s is displaying
about 3
> sigma low and the W1 3 sigma high, which is unlikely.
> 
> 4.   The question: Should the K3s be calibrated from the W1 or should
> the W1 be calibrated from the K3s?
> 
> (There could be a detailed, separate discussion of the meaning of
"average"
> power and "PEP" as used in the W1 programming reference. It is my belief
that
> the two should be the same thing if using a cw signal and the FCC
definition of
> "PEP". It would be interesting to know what is going on in the K3s
transmitter
> gain calibration process. It seems like there is an internal power
measurement
> process and the gain is being set against that. Does that internal
measurement
> process have accuracy equivalent to the W1 or vice
> versa?)
> 
> 
> 
> Ed
> 
> KD3Y
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] W1

[John Oppenheimer]

I performed some additional research, Johnny, VR2XMC, measured TP1 V at
4.82 back in December 2006. Maybe the 4.5 is a typo and should be 4.8:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/some-questions-of-W1-td442330.html

John KN5L

On 12/31/2015 06:22 AM, John Oppenheimer wrote:
> Hi Ed.
> 
> The W1 DC voltage calibration resulted with incorrect reading with my
> W1. My hunch is that components have changed since Elecraft established
> the TP1 DC calibration voltage almost a decade ago.
> 
> I have a KX3F with unchanged factory power calibration. Based on
> comments from Wayne, the KX3 is calibrated at 7.0 watts.
> 
> My W1 TP1 voltage is 4.812 using a Fluke 87V
> 
> Setting up a test bench with KX3 -> W1 -> DL1
> 
> Using W1 Utility to display W1 power:
> http://www.elecraft.com/software/W1/elecraft_w1_software.htm
> 
> TP1 V = 4.812
> KX3 power = 7.0 W
> W1 power = 7.02
> DL1 V = 12.91 = 6.93 watts
> 
> The W1 20 dB directional coupler does absorb power, at 7 watts, the
> directional coupler will absorb 0.07 watts. Adding 0.07 to the DL1
> measurements equals 7.00 watts.
> 
> John KN5L
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[Elecraft] W1

[Ed Lambert]

It is probably necessary to restate my question with more precision.

1.   I have calibrated the K3s using Elecraft K3 Utility

2.   I have carefully calibrated the W1 using the DDM method with a good
quality DDM.

3.   Comparing the results, I see that the W1 consistently calculates
power about 1 dB higher than the K3s. Statistically, I would have expected
them to be closer. From the W1 specifications, and not knowing the K3s power
accuracy specifications, it seems that, possibly, the K3s is displaying
about 3 sigma low and the W1 3 sigma high, which is unlikely.

4.   The question: Should the K3s be calibrated from the W1 or should
the W1 be calibrated from the K3s?

(There could be a detailed, separate discussion of the meaning of "average"
power and "PEP" as used in the W1 programming reference. It is my belief
that the two should be the same thing if using a cw signal and the FCC
definition of "PEP". It would be interesting to know what is going on in the
K3s transmitter gain calibration process. It seems like there is an internal
power measurement process and the gain is being set against that. Does that
internal measurement process have accuracy equivalent to the W1 or vice
versa?)

 

Ed

KD3Y

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Re: [Elecraft] W1

[John Oppenheimer]

Hi Ed.

The W1 DC voltage calibration resulted with incorrect reading with my
W1. My hunch is that components have changed since Elecraft established
the TP1 DC calibration voltage almost a decade ago.

I have a KX3F with unchanged factory power calibration. Based on
comments from Wayne, the KX3 is calibrated at 7.0 watts.

My W1 TP1 voltage is 4.812 using a Fluke 87V

Setting up a test bench with KX3 -> W1 -> DL1

Using W1 Utility to display W1 power:
http://www.elecraft.com/software/W1/elecraft_w1_software.htm

TP1 V = 4.812
KX3 power = 7.0 W
W1 power = 7.02
DL1 V = 12.91 = 6.93 watts

The W1 20 dB directional coupler does absorb power, at 7 watts, the
directional coupler will absorb 0.07 watts. Adding 0.07 to the DL1
measurements equals 7.00 watts.

John KN5L
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Re: [Elecraft] W1

[Robert Nobis]

Just wondering. Why is an accuracy within less than 1dB important?

Happy New Year.

73,

Bob Nobis - N7RJN
n7...@nobis.net


> On Dec 31, 2015, at 09:42, Ed Lambert <g_e_lamb...@comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> John,
> 
> Thank you for your response.
> My original K3s test setup was per the manual: good quality dummy load (not
> the DL1 because of its 20 watt upper limit) with the ATU off. My high
> quality dummy load does not have a test point.
> After reading your results, I decided to take the DL1 as my "truth model". I
> found that the W1 display was 0.8 dB high and the K3s power display was 0.9
> dB low. Each one was at the opposite end of the error budget. (sort of like
> winning the "losers" lottery).
> So, I set up the W1 to match the DL1 up to 20 watts and, surprise, the W1 TP
> voltage is now 4.87 volts.
> I don't have the W1 software and cabling installed yet. At that time I can
> fine tune all of this.
> It seems as though a consensus is building that the W1 manual specification
> of 4.5 volts is no longer correct, unless there is something "off" with the
> W1 internal algorithm.
> Good stuff. Thank you everyone for your comments and help.
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of John
> Oppenheimer
> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2015 7:22 AM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1
> 
> Hi Ed.
> 
> The W1 DC voltage calibration resulted with incorrect reading with my W1. My
> hunch is that components have changed since Elecraft established the TP1 DC
> calibration voltage almost a decade ago.
> 
> I have a KX3F with unchanged factory power calibration. Based on comments
> from Wayne, the KX3 is calibrated at 7.0 watts.
> 
> My W1 TP1 voltage is 4.812 using a Fluke 87V
> 
> Setting up a test bench with KX3 -> W1 -> DL1
> 
> Using W1 Utility to display W1 power:
> http://www.elecraft.com/software/W1/elecraft_w1_software.htm
> 
> TP1 V = 4.812
> KX3 power = 7.0 W
> W1 power = 7.02
> DL1 V = 12.91 = 6.93 watts
> 
> The W1 20 dB directional coupler does absorb power, at 7 watts, the
> directional coupler will absorb 0.07 watts. Adding 0.07 to the DL1
> measurements equals 7.00 watts.
> 
> John KN5L
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Re: [Elecraft] W1

[Lewis Phelps]

“Because it’s there.” 

George Leigh Mallory, 1923, answering the question why he continued to try to 
climb to the summit of Mt. Everest.

73,

Lew N6LEW

> On Dec 31, 2015, at 8:51 AM, Robert Nobis  wrote:
> 
> Just wondering. Why is an accuracy within less than 1dB important?
> 
> Happy New Year.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Bob Nobis - N7RJN
> n7...@nobis.net 
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] W1

[Bob McGraw - K4TAX]

For the same reason I find the AUTO SPOT function to be in error some 2 Hz.

73
Bob, K4TAX

On 12/31/2015 3:36 PM, Gary Smith wrote:

Because accuracy is or isn't.

73,

HNY

Gary
KA1J



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Re: [Elecraft] W1

[Gary Smith]

Because accuracy is or isn't.

73,

HNY 

Gary
KA1J

> Just wondering. Why is an accuracy within less than 1dB important?
> 
> Happy New Year.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Bob Nobis - N7RJN
> n7...@nobis.net
> 
> 
> > On Dec 31, 2015, at 09:42, Ed Lambert <g_e_lamb...@comcast.net> wrote:
> > 
> > John,
> > 
> > Thank you for your response.
> > My original K3s test setup was per the manual: good quality dummy load (not
> > the DL1 because of its 20 watt upper limit) with the ATU off. My high
> > quality dummy load does not have a test point.
> > After reading your results, I decided to take the DL1 as my "truth model". I
> > found that the W1 display was 0.8 dB high and the K3s power display was 0.9
> > dB low. Each one was at the opposite end of the error budget. (sort of like
> > winning the "losers" lottery).
> > So, I set up the W1 to match the DL1 up to 20 watts and, surprise, the W1 TP
> > voltage is now 4.87 volts.
> > I don't have the W1 software and cabling installed yet. At that time I can
> > fine tune all of this.
> > It seems as though a consensus is building that the W1 manual specification
> > of 4.5 volts is no longer correct, unless there is something "off" with the
> > W1 internal algorithm.
> > Good stuff. Thank you everyone for your comments and help.
> > 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of John
> > Oppenheimer
> > Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2015 7:22 AM
> > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1
> > 
> > Hi Ed.
> > 
> > The W1 DC voltage calibration resulted with incorrect reading with my W1. My
> > hunch is that components have changed since Elecraft established the TP1 DC
> > calibration voltage almost a decade ago.
> > 
> > I have a KX3F with unchanged factory power calibration. Based on comments
> > from Wayne, the KX3 is calibrated at 7.0 watts.
> > 
> > My W1 TP1 voltage is 4.812 using a Fluke 87V
> > 
> > Setting up a test bench with KX3 -> W1 -> DL1
> > 
> > Using W1 Utility to display W1 power:
> > http://www.elecraft.com/software/W1/elecraft_w1_software.htm
> > 
> > TP1 V = 4.812
> > KX3 power = 7.0 W
> > W1 power = 7.02
> > DL1 V = 12.91 = 6.93 watts
> > 
> > The W1 20 dB directional coupler does absorb power, at 7 watts, the
> > directional coupler will absorb 0.07 watts. Adding 0.07 to the DL1
> > measurements equals 7.00 watts.
> > 
> > John KN5L
> > __
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> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message
> > delivered to g_e_lamb...@comcast.net
> > 
> > __
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> > Message delivered to n7...@nobis.net
> > 
> 
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[Elecraft] W1

[Ed Lambert]

Regarding my earlier message, I am guessing that the W1 displays peak power
"out of the box" and I am guessing that the K3 power is average power. 

If the above is true, then the K3 is actually showing a higher output power
than, in fact, it is producing. 

Until I know, for sure, what is being measured in each (the W1 and the K3),
I guess I cannot make meaningful comparisons between the two.

Ed

KD3Y

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[Elecraft] W1

[Ed Lambert]

Just before Christmas I finished building a K3s/100.

 

I did the transmitter gain calibration using the Elecraft K3 Utility.

 

This week, to satisfy my need for rosin fumes, I completed a W1. I carefully
calibrated the W1 using the DMM method (Fluke 189).

 

Working into a 50 ohm dummy load, I notice that the W1 reads considerably
higher power than that set on the K3s. The W1 is generally about "one LED"
higher than the K3. For example, right now when the K3 setting just reaches
79 watts, the W1 100 watt LED illuminates.

 

Before digging deeper, is there a known answer to the question "Which one is
correct?"

 

Ed

KD3Y

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[Elecraft] W1 Power Meter For Sale

[Rod Hotz]

I have a like new Elecraft W1 Power Meter for sale. It is built into a W8FGU
LexanR enclosure and stand with BNC connectors on the back side of the
enclosure and a power on/off switch. Includes the Elecraft and W8FGU
manuals. Will ship priority and insure in the continental US for $130.
Payment must be by US Postal money order. Please contact me off list if
interested. All questions answered immediately.

 

73,

 

Rod, K5BGB 

 

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[Elecraft] W1 power meter for sale

[Carl Yaffey]

W1 built into a plexiglass box by SK K8IDN. $75.

Also, a couple of frequency counters.

See them here:  http://www.carl-yaffey.com/estate_sale.html



Carl Yaffey  K8NU
Recording studio.
cyaffeyno_s...@gmail.com 
614 268 6353, Columbus OH
http://www.carl-yaffey.com
http://www.grassahol.com








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[Elecraft] W1 SOLD

[Carl Yaffey]

Carl Yaffey  K8NU
Recording studio.
cyaffeyno_s...@gmail.com 
614 268 6353, Columbus OH
http://www.carl-yaffey.com
http://www.grassahol.com








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Re: [Elecraft] W1 versus WM1

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

I believe that is the case.

73,
Eric
elecraft.com

On 1/13/2015 8:34 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:

A typo that was repeated through the document and made its way to being 
labelled on the PCB!!

That is some typo.  Check the docs and I doubt you will think them as a typo.  
Seems like a lot of opinions of people who think this is some other product of 
another company or a mistake.  But the document is still on the Elecraft web 
site and can be read.

The user guide has a date of 2006 and there is also a data sheet along with 
other mini-modules from Elecraft.  It is listed for $89.95.



I am convinced it was the older name of the W1.  Maybe some Elecraft person can 
confirm.

PEH's iPad



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Re: [Elecraft] W1 versus WM1

[Augie Gus Hansen]

You might be confusing the Elecraft W1 with the older Oak Hills WM-1 (and later 
model WM-2).  I don’t recall anything from Elecraft designated “WM1”.



The WM1 Computing Meter is a product of Autek Research. It is a very 
nice 20/200/2000 watt power/SWR meter with selectable average and peak 
reading capabilities. SWR and power are shown simultaneously on separate 
meters. This is a very good quality meter that I have used for many years.


For my QRP work I also have the OHR WM-2 wattmeter. It, too, is a 
quality instrument, and it allows you to make accurate forward and 
reverse power measurements on 10/1/0.1 watt scales. (SWR is not shown 
directly - it must be calculated from the power readings.)


Gus Hansen
KB0YH

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 versus WM1

[Fred Townsend]

Peace Phil:
I don't doubt what you say. I'm sure you are familiar with Mr. Murphy. If the 
typo was made by document control and given to the RP (writer, tech, engineer, 
etc.) then that would explain the consistency of the error. Once created bad 
files are forever. Been there, done that.
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Phil Hystad [mailto:phys...@mac.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2015 8:34 PM
To: Fred Townsend
Cc: Augie Gus Hansen; w7...@cox.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1 versus WM1

A typo that was repeated through the document and made its way to being 
labelled on the PCB!!

That is some typo.  Check the docs and I doubt you will think them as a typo.  
Seems like a lot of opinions of people who think this is some other product of 
another company or a mistake.  But the document is still on the Elecraft web 
site and can be read.

The user guide has a date of 2006 and there is also a data sheet along with 
other mini-modules from Elecraft.  It is listed for $89.95.  I am convinced it 
was the older name of the W1.  Maybe some Elecraft person can confirm. 

PEH's iPad

 On Jan 13, 2015, at 8:19 PM, Fred Townsend fptowns...@earthlink.net wrote:
 
 Could it be as simple as a typo. Did you compare file dates?
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
 Phil Hystad
 Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2015 4:43 PM
 To: Augie Gus Hansen; w7...@cox.net
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1 versus WM1
 
 The document that I found on the Elecraft Web site was IDENTICAL to the 
 document for the current W1.  Except, it was called WM1.  Not only that, the 
 contents of the two documents were as close to identical as my brief read 
 through could determine.  And, not only that (ditto) but the photograph of 
 the WM1 PCB and parts layout was IDENTICAL to the W1 PCB and parts layout 
 with the exception of the label that said WM1.
 
 So, this is definitely an Elecraft product.  Not some Autek Research thing 
 nor some older Oak Hills WM-1 unless Elecraft totally renamed it and put 
 their name on the PCB board!
 
 I am guessing that the item was renamed from WM1 to W1 and maybe because 
 there was discovered a name conflict with this Autek or Oak Hills product.
 
 73, phil, K7PEH
 
 On Jan 13, 2015, at 4:36 PM, Augie Gus Hansen augie.han...@comcast.net 
 wrote:
 
 
 
 You might be confusing the Elecraft W1 with the older Oak Hills WM-1 (and 
 later model WM-2).  I don’t recall anything from Elecraft designated “WM1”.
 
 
 The WM1 Computing Meter is a product of Autek Research. It is a very nice 
 20/200/2000 watt power/SWR meter with selectable average and peak reading 
 capabilities. SWR and power are shown simultaneously on separate meters. 
 This is a very good quality meter that I have used for many years.
 
 For my QRP work I also have the OHR WM-2 wattmeter. It, too, is a 
 quality instrument, and it allows you to make accurate forward and 
 reverse power measurements on 10/1/0.1 watt scales. (SWR is not shown 
 directly - it must be calculated from the power readings.)
 
 Gus Hansen
 KB0YH
 
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 email
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 -
 No virus found in this message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 2015.0.5645 / Virus Database: 4260/8926 - Release Date: 
 01/13/15
 


-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.5645 / Virus Database: 4260/8926 - Release Date: 01/13/15


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Re: [Elecraft] W1 versus WM1

[Fred Townsend]

Could it be as simple as a typo. Did you compare file dates?

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil 
Hystad
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2015 4:43 PM
To: Augie Gus Hansen; w7...@cox.net
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1 versus WM1

The document that I found on the Elecraft Web site was IDENTICAL to the 
document for the current W1.  Except, it was called WM1.  Not only that, the 
contents of the two documents were as close to identical as my brief read 
through could determine.  And, not only that (ditto) but the photograph of the 
WM1 PCB and parts layout was IDENTICAL to the W1 PCB and parts layout with the 
exception of the label that said WM1.

So, this is definitely an Elecraft product.  Not some Autek Research thing nor 
some older Oak Hills WM-1 unless Elecraft totally renamed it and put their name 
on the PCB board!

I am guessing that the item was renamed from WM1 to W1 and maybe because there 
was discovered a name conflict with this Autek or Oak Hills product.

73, phil, K7PEH

 On Jan 13, 2015, at 4:36 PM, Augie Gus Hansen augie.han...@comcast.net 
 wrote:
 
 
 
 You might be confusing the Elecraft W1 with the older Oak Hills WM-1 (and 
 later model WM-2).  I don’t recall anything from Elecraft designated “WM1”.
 
 
 The WM1 Computing Meter is a product of Autek Research. It is a very nice 
 20/200/2000 watt power/SWR meter with selectable average and peak reading 
 capabilities. SWR and power are shown simultaneously on separate meters. This 
 is a very good quality meter that I have used for many years.
 
 For my QRP work I also have the OHR WM-2 wattmeter. It, too, is a 
 quality instrument, and it allows you to make accurate forward and 
 reverse power measurements on 10/1/0.1 watt scales. (SWR is not shown 
 directly - it must be calculated from the power readings.)
 
 Gus Hansen
 KB0YH
 
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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.5645 / Virus Database: 4260/8926 - Release Date: 01/13/15

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 versus WM1

[Phil Hystad]

A typo that was repeated through the document and made its way to being 
labelled on the PCB!!

That is some typo.  Check the docs and I doubt you will think them as a typo.  
Seems like a lot of opinions of people who think this is some other product of 
another company or a mistake.  But the document is still on the Elecraft web 
site and can be read.

The user guide has a date of 2006 and there is also a data sheet along with 
other mini-modules from Elecraft.  It is listed for $89.95.  I am convinced it 
was the older name of the W1.  Maybe some Elecraft person can confirm. 

PEH's iPad

 On Jan 13, 2015, at 8:19 PM, Fred Townsend fptowns...@earthlink.net wrote:
 
 Could it be as simple as a typo. Did you compare file dates?
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil 
 Hystad
 Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2015 4:43 PM
 To: Augie Gus Hansen; w7...@cox.net
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1 versus WM1
 
 The document that I found on the Elecraft Web site was IDENTICAL to the 
 document for the current W1.  Except, it was called WM1.  Not only that, the 
 contents of the two documents were as close to identical as my brief read 
 through could determine.  And, not only that (ditto) but the photograph of 
 the WM1 PCB and parts layout was IDENTICAL to the W1 PCB and parts layout 
 with the exception of the label that said WM1.
 
 So, this is definitely an Elecraft product.  Not some Autek Research thing 
 nor some older Oak Hills WM-1 unless Elecraft totally renamed it and put 
 their name on the PCB board!
 
 I am guessing that the item was renamed from WM1 to W1 and maybe because 
 there was discovered a name conflict with this Autek or Oak Hills product.
 
 73, phil, K7PEH
 
 On Jan 13, 2015, at 4:36 PM, Augie Gus Hansen augie.han...@comcast.net 
 wrote:
 
 
 
 You might be confusing the Elecraft W1 with the older Oak Hills WM-1 (and 
 later model WM-2).  I don’t recall anything from Elecraft designated “WM1”.
 
 
 The WM1 Computing Meter is a product of Autek Research. It is a very nice 
 20/200/2000 watt power/SWR meter with selectable average and peak reading 
 capabilities. SWR and power are shown simultaneously on separate meters. 
 This is a very good quality meter that I have used for many years.
 
 For my QRP work I also have the OHR WM-2 wattmeter. It, too, is a 
 quality instrument, and it allows you to make accurate forward and 
 reverse power measurements on 10/1/0.1 watt scales. (SWR is not shown 
 directly - it must be calculated from the power readings.)
 
 Gus Hansen
 KB0YH
 
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 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 2015.0.5645 / Virus Database: 4260/8926 - Release Date: 01/13/15
 
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[Elecraft] W1 versus WM1

[Phil Hystad]

I have a W1 but when I was searching for some information on-line I discovered 
the Elecraft product named WM1.  The WM1 seems to be the same as W1, but is it?

Is is merely a renaming of the WM1 - W1 (I am thinking W1 might be newer) or 
is it an older but similar product.

73, phil, K7PEH

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 versus WM1

[Phil Hystad]

The document that I found on the Elecraft Web site was IDENTICAL to the 
document for the current W1.  Except, it was called WM1.  Not only that, the 
contents of the two documents were as close to identical as my brief read 
through could determine.  And, not only that (ditto) but the photograph of the 
WM1 PCB and parts layout was IDENTICAL to the W1 PCB and parts layout with the 
exception of the label that said WM1.

So, this is definitely an Elecraft product.  Not some Autek Research thing nor 
some older Oak Hills WM-1 unless Elecraft totally renamed it and put their name 
on the PCB board!

I am guessing that the item was renamed from WM1 to W1 and maybe because there 
was discovered a name conflict with this Autek or Oak Hills product.

73, phil, K7PEH

 On Jan 13, 2015, at 4:36 PM, Augie Gus Hansen augie.han...@comcast.net 
 wrote:
 
 
 
 You might be confusing the Elecraft W1 with the older Oak Hills WM-1 (and 
 later model WM-2).  I don’t recall anything from Elecraft designated “WM1”.
 
 
 The WM1 Computing Meter is a product of Autek Research. It is a very nice 
 20/200/2000 watt power/SWR meter with selectable average and peak reading 
 capabilities. SWR and power are shown simultaneously on separate meters. This 
 is a very good quality meter that I have used for many years.
 
 For my QRP work I also have the OHR WM-2 wattmeter. It, too, is a quality 
 instrument, and it allows you to make accurate forward and reverse power 
 measurements on 10/1/0.1 watt scales. (SWR is not shown directly - it must be 
 calculated from the power readings.)
 
 Gus Hansen
 KB0YH
 
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Re: [Elecraft] W1 versus WM1

[dyarnes]

You might be confusing the Elecraft W1 with the older Oak Hills WM-1 (and later 
model WM-2).  I don’t recall anything from Elecraft designated “WM1”.  

The Oak Hills watt meters were first offered in the mid 90’s, and were very 
popular—still are I guess.  I have a WM1, but the WM2 was something of an 
improved version I think.  Very accurate, but much bigger than the Elecraft W1, 
and limited to QRP levels.

I think you can still get a WM2 through Milestone Technologies.  Check this 
link out:  http://www.ohr.com/

Dave W7AQK

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[Elecraft] W1 kit is sold

[Doug Person via Elecraft]

The W1kit is sold.  Thanks.  Doug -- K0DXV
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[Elecraft] W1 for sale

[G7KXZ]

Happy to purchase if you want to post to UK

Kevin 
G7KXZ
QTHR


Sent from my iPhone5

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[Elecraft] For Sale: Unbuilt Elecraft W1 Wattmeter Kit

[Doug Person via Elecraft]

For Sale:

Unbuilt W1 SWR/Wattmeter as received from Elecraft.

$80 + Shipping -- PayPal Only

Doug -- K0DXV
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[Elecraft] W1: adapting for high-power

[K1LI]

I need an internal wattmeter for a homebrew project. Except for the fact that
the W1 only takes up to 140W without modification, it looks like a great
solution. I'm thinking about using a surplus bridge from an industrial ISM
generator and padding the DC output by 12-dB before feeding (via miniature
coax) to the junctions at D1/R3 and D2/R4.

Can anyone think of a reason that this would NOT work?

Also, if I simply change the voltage at TP1 by adjusting R17, does the
entire power range follow, or does the accuracy suffer at one end of the
range or the other?

Thanks,

Brian K1LI



--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/W1-adapting-for-high-power-tp7572935.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] W1: adapting for high power use

[Brian Machesney]

I need an internal wattmeter for a homebrew, legal limit, solid-state amp.
Except for the fact that the W1 only takes up to 140W without modification,
it looks like a great solution. I'm thinking about using a surplus bridge
from an industrial ISM generator and padding the DC output by 12-dB
before feeding (via miniature coax) to the junctions at D1/R3 and D2/R4.

Can anyone think of a reason that this would NOT work?

Also, if I simply change the voltage at TP1 by adjusting R17, does the
entire power range follow, or does the accuracy suffer at one end of the
range or the other?

Thanks,

Brian K1LI
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[Elecraft] W1 wanted

[Brian Alsop]

Let me know if you have one available and shipped price.

73 de Brian/K3KO


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[Elecraft] W1 Found!

[NZ8J]

I found a nice W1 wattmeter from a fellow list member.. Thanks to all
who responded
73
Tim
Nz8J
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[Elecraft] W1/K2 Question

[Tom McCulloch]

Hi gang,
   I have a W1 watt meter, which I probably purchased just before the W2 
was released, and I'm finally fed up with changing the 9 volt battery 
every time I forget to turn the W1 off.  So I'm thinking of pulling the 
voltage from my K2 to power the W1.

In the back of my mind I'm remembering a thread from a good number of 
years ago which advised Don't pull any voltage from the K2 for external 
uses.  Does anyone know if it would be OK to take 9 to 13 volts from 
the K2 to power my W1 (which really doesn't draw much current).  If so, 
has any one tapped into the K2 to set up a voltage out jack?  I'd be 
interested in knowing where you took the voltage. I'm looking at P3 or 
perhaps F1 (I have the the battery installed in the K2).

OK and thanks for any help you may provide.

Tom, WB2QDG
K2 #1103

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Re: [Elecraft] W1/K2 Question

[Don Wilhelm]

Tom,

I would suggest if you do that, to use the cathode of D12 for the source 
of your voltage.  That is turned on/OFF with the K2 power switch.

The K2 maximum current (CAL CUR) is normally set to 3.50, and the 
internal fuse is rated at 5 Amps.
The difference is 150 ma, but I would suggest limiting the draw to 100 
ma or less.  The W1 is spec'ed at 30 ma with 10 LEDs lighted, so no problem.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/9/2012 7:43 PM, Tom McCulloch wrote:
 Hi gang,
 I have a W1 watt meter, which I probably purchased just before the W2
 was released, and I'm finally fed up with changing the 9 volt battery
 every time I forget to turn the W1 off.  So I'm thinking of pulling the
 voltage from my K2 to power the W1.

 In the back of my mind I'm remembering a thread from a good number of
 years ago which advised Don't pull any voltage from the K2 for external
 uses.  Does anyone know if it would be OK to take 9 to 13 volts from
 the K2 to power my W1 (which really doesn't draw much current).  If so,
 has any one tapped into the K2 to set up a voltage out jack?  I'd be
 interested in knowing where you took the voltage. I'm looking at P3 or
 perhaps F1 (I have the the battery installed in the K2).

 OK and thanks for any help you may provide.

 Tom, WB2QDG
 K2 #1103


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[Elecraft] W1 wattmeter kit

[Tony Morgan]

Does anyone have a W1 wattmeter kit they would like to part with?
w7go at arrl.net

73,

Tony W7GO

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[Elecraft] W1 software updates

[Mike Markowski]

I've been in a programming mood lately and have added a few new features 
to my W1 software.  One program now offers 3 meter faces: analog, 
digital, and tiny.  Analog is dual meter, optionally providing 
lollipops with digital readings; digital, with VU meter display; and 
tiny, offering units of W or dBm along with color coded SWR. 
Screenshots and one-click run are available at:

   http://udel.edu/~mm/ham/elecraft/w1/

I also added a little program at:

   http://udel.edu/~mm/ham/elecraft/antBw/

to measure antenna bandwidth.  Bypass your ATU and change to the band of 
interest first, then start it up.  It will loop through the frequency 
range, tx at 1W, measure SWR, go to rx, and continue.  A file is 
generated that you can plot then plot.

Please email direct (offlist) with any problems and I'll try to sort 
them out.  Thanks!

73,
Mike ab3ap
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[Elecraft] W1 metal housing

[edward kacura]

Hi Bob, 
    Here's my W1 in a metal case built by Larry, AG4NN. I bought it sometime 
ago from him, and it's a great match for my K2 and KAT 100/ KPA 100 combo ! 
Here's the link. www.lawrenceingram.com. Once there, click on ham radio and 
to the right, click on W1 meter.

73 de Ed N7EDK

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[Elecraft] W1 software testing help

[Mike Markowski]

If you have a W1, I hope you can take a few minutes to help me test software.

The software runs, but the test is to see if it can be run with a single click
from a web page.  I'm fairly new to that aspect.  If you'd like to test it, can
you please follow the directions below and email me offlist whether it worked or
not?  And if not, what OS, 32/64 bit, serial port info (motherboard or usb
converter), and errors you received?

Thanks very much!  73,
Mike ab3ap


1. Connect to serial port and turn on your W1.

2. Go to:   http://udel.edu/~mm/ham/elecraft/w1/

3. Below the top two pictures is a little Elecraft icon that says Click me.
Click it and hopefully an analog face to the W1 will start up.  (When prompted,
it's safe to accept the certificate.)
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[Elecraft] W1 metallic enclosure

[k7hbg @dslextreme.com]

Howdy Everyone;

 A few days ago someone provided a picture of a beautiful W1 metal
enclosure.
I can't find the e-mail containing this picture or link and was wondering
if somebody
here could give a bit of direction to this e-mail.

Many thanks for any info! Bob, K7HBG
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Re: [Elecraft] W1 metallic enclosure

[Mike Markowski]

Bob,

It's probably the enclosure made by Heinz HB9BCB.  Some photos are at 
the bottom of my W1 page at

   http://udel.edu/~mm/ham/elecraft/w1/

Heinz did an excellent job on it and other Elecraft accessories!  73,

Mike ab3ap

On 03/15/2012 09:24 PM, k7hbg @dslextreme.com wrote:
 Howdy Everyone;

   A few days ago someone provided a picture of a beautiful W1 metal
 enclosure.
 I can't find the e-mail containing this picture or link and was wondering
 if somebody
 here could give a bit of direction to this e-mail.

 Many thanks for any info! Bob, K7HBG
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[Elecraft] W1 metallic enclosure

[k7hbg @dslextreme.com]

That's it! Thank you very much Mike.
 I was thinking about doing something similar in a little TenTek enclosure.
Your W1 meter works on my PC just fine. Win-XP 32bit, newly built and
perfectly perky.

73, Bob K7HBG
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[Elecraft] W1 software analog meter face

[Mike Markowski]

A few weeks ago I mentioned I was writing code to give the W1 watt meter 
a dual needle, analog face.  I was unsure if any were interested but was 
surprised at the number of emails received.

I've continued putting in the occasional hour or two here and there, 
knocking off the rough corners and polishing it up.  Some screen shots 
are at

   http://udel.edu/~mm/ham/elecraft/w1/

Some of you might be familiar with my older K2 and W1 software that is 
in Java.  At the time I didn't know how to package libraries, etc., so 
it was a bit of a chore to install the programs.  I know how now and 
once that's complete the download link will be active.  Till then, I 
thought I'd give a preview to those who might be interested.

Now...to stop programming and get back on the air!  73,

Mike ab3ap
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[Elecraft] W1 analog face (software)

[Mike Markowski]

Here is a dual-meter fwd, refl, swr meter face I made for the W1:

   http://udel.edu/~mm/ham/elecraft/swrMeter-hiSwr.png

The black is forward power, blue reflected, and the cross point shows an 
swr of around 4.5.  (K1 untuned into a random wire.)  The challenge that 
prompted me to make this was to learn how to make the SWR lines where 
the needles overlap.  When the window is resized the meter is 
recalculated and redrawn.  The unlabeled SWR lines from right to left 
are 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.8, 2, 3, 5 to 1.

Since the W2 has now displaced the W1 - except for those of us who don't 
have one! - I wonder if anyone is interested in this program?  If so, 
I'll spend a few more weeks of occasional evening effort to clean it up. 
  If not, I've learned what I wanted  as a side effect have a 
rough-around-the-edges tool that I'll leave as is.  :-)

73,
Mike ab3ap
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[Elecraft] Elecraft W1

[Tom Harson]

Hello
I'm having a bit of a problem with a W1 Wattmeter, and need some advice !
The W1 communicates with the computer under Windows XP just fine with
a USB to Serial adapter. I can read data from the watt meter and store
user parameters just fine.

Under Windows 7, I can read data from the W1 with either of two USB to 
serial
adapters and also from hardware serial ports on the computer. I can not 
write
user parameters to the W1 with any combination of serial devices.

I have tried every trick I know, with no luck. The firmware version on 
the W1 is 1.05
It looks like the Windows 7 machine is sending data to the W1 too fast, 
but that
is speculation on my part. Anyone else see this ??

73 de Tom K5VJZ

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[Elecraft] W1 Meter ( FOUND )

[edward kacura]

Good Morning,
 Yesterday I was looking for a W1 meter, and have found one ! So there 
is no further need . Thanks again to those who replyed.73 de Ed N7EDK
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[Elecraft] W1 meter

[edward kacura]

Good Morning
 Does anyone have a W1 power meter excess to their needs, and would be 
interested in parting with it ?? I can do PayPal, contact me off-line @ 
ekac...@yahoo.com.
 
72/73 de Ed N7EDK  ( This wait for the KX3 is killing me ! )
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[Elecraft] W1 for sale

[Mike Short]

I have a W1 wattmeter with the W8FGU plexi case with tilt stand for sale. I
changed the LED's to color coded ones that someone posted here.

$130 new. $100 OBO shipped.

 

Mike

AI4NS

 

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[Elecraft] [W1, W2], Power Connector Size

[Dave Van Wallaghen]

Hi all,

I just looked at the W1 manual and see the power jack is listed as 2.1mm 
in size. I cannot find the size for the power jack for the W2. Would 
anyone have that info?

Thanks in advance.

73,
Dave W8FGU


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[Elecraft] W1: Can you remote the readout lightbars?

[Jim Robbins]

Does anyone know if the W1 wattmeter LED lightbar readouts can be physically 
and electrically remoted from the rest of the circuit board, e.g. say, cut the 
board and use wire flat ribbon?  Anyone tried this?  Doing so would make 
mounting the board in an enclosure so much easier.  Jim Robbins, N1JR
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Re: [Elecraft] W1: Can you remote the readout lightbars?

[L. D. Ingram]

Jim,

Yes, I did it some time ago.

You can see pictures of what I did on my web site www.lawrenceingram.com
Let me know if you have any questions

73,

Larry Ingram  AG4NN

At 02:08 PM 5/28/2010, you wrote:
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Does anyone know if the W1 wattmeter LED lightbar readouts can be 
physically and electrically remoted from the rest of the circuit 
board, e.g. say, cut the board and use wire flat ribbon?  Anyone 
tried this?  Doing so would make mounting the board in an enclosure 
so much easier.  Jim Robbins, N1JR

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Re: [Elecraft] FOR SALE: ELecraft W1 Wattmeter Kit--SOLD

[Elliott Lawrence]

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[Elecraft] FOR SALE: ELecraft W1 Wattmeter Kit

[Elliott Lawrence]

FOR SALE:  Elecraft W1 Wattmeter Kit  new in bag never openned.  Won at 
Visalia.  $80 shipping Priority Mail included.  Money Order preferred.

Please contact me directly.

73
Elliott WA6TLA 

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[Elecraft] Elecraft W1 - SOLD

[Johnny Siu]

Thanks for all your interest and the W1 was sold.

73

Johnny VR2XMC



- 轉寄的郵件 -
寄件人﹕ Johnny Siu vr2...@yahoo.com.hk
收件人﹕ Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
傳送日期﹕ 2010/1/30 (六) 12:01:43 PM
主題： FS: Elecraft W1 computing wattmeter and SWR bridge

Hello Group,

I have already had the LP100A and W2.  This W1 is surplus to my requirement. It 
comes with the PC interface cable.  Original price from Elecraft was $104.9 + 
shipping.

I would like to sell it at $55 plus $10 for shipping by registered airmail.  
The W1 was well built and 100% functional.  I accept payment by paypal.

If interested,  please email me off the list.

73

Johnny Siu VR2XMC


      Yahoo!香港提供網上安全攻略，教你如何防範黑客! 請前往 http://hk.promo.yahoo.com/security/ 了解更多!



  Yahoo!香港提供網上安全攻略，教你如何防範黑客! 請前往 http://hk.promo.yahoo.com/security/ 了解更多!

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[Elecraft] FS: Elecraft W1 computing wattmeter and SWR bridge

[Johnny Siu]

Hello Group,

I have already had the LP100A and W2.  This W1 is surplus to my requirement. It 
comes with the PC interface cable.  Original price from Elecraft was $104.9 + 
shipping.

I would like to sell it at $55 plus $10 for shipping by registered airmail.  
The W1 was well built and 100% functional.  I accept payment by paypal.

If interested,  please email me off the list.

73

Johnny Siu VR2XMC


  Yahoo!香港提供網上安全攻略，教你如何防範黑客! 請前往 http://hk.promo.yahoo.com/security/ 了解更多!

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[Elecraft] W1 Wattmeter SWR Bridge

[John Lawrence]

I have need to place a remote 120 watt rf power measuring device out at the 
antenna site some 450 feet from the shack.  I have 
RS-232 wireless connectivity at the remote location and would like to use the 
W1 to provide the measurement.  
 
Does anyone have experience using the W1 with the GUI software provided by 
Elecraft?  
 
Any ifo would greatly appreciate input from those who are using or have used 
this device.
 
Thanks
 
73,
 
John, W1QS
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[Elecraft] W1 software

[K5WA]

I finally got a chance to download and try the W1 software.  I could not get
it to recognize the attached W2.  The W2 Configuration utility recognizes
the W2 just fine.  I released the port when closing down the W2 Utility and
then made sure the port speed was correct before launching the W1 software.
Still no connection.  Is there something else I needed to do?

 

Thanks,

Bob K5WA

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 software

[David Fleming]

Hi Bob,

You should be using the W2 interface software. Not W1. You can find it here:

http://www.elecraft.com/software/W2/elecraft_w2_software.htm

Regards and 73,

David, W4SMT

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 software

[K5WA]

Thanks David.  I see that my keen eye for detail is still active.



-Original Message-
From: David Fleming [mailto:df...@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 11:53 AM
To: K5WA
Cc: Elecraft reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1 software

Hi Bob,

You should be using the W2 interface software. Not W1. You can find it here:

http://www.elecraft.com/software/W2/elecraft_w2_software.htm

Regards and 73,

David, W4SMT

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 - W1 wattmeter for Sale

[Robert Dorchuck]

The W1 Wattmeter has been sold.
Thanks,
Bob  W6VY
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[Elecraft] W1 - Elecraft W1 Wattmeter for Sale

[Robert Dorchuck]

I have a W1 Wattmeter mounted in the W1 Lexan enclosure by W8FGU for sale.  I 
now
have a Powermaster meter and no longer need the W1.  A serial cable and DC power
cable are included.  The BNC connectors exit the rear of the enclosure.  Price 
is $80
plus shipping.  Please contact me off list if interested.  Thanks  w6vy at 
verizon dot net
Bob  W6VY
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[Elecraft] W1 Wattmeter for sale

[Craig D. Smith]

I've recently acquired a LP-100A, and no longer have an application for my
W1 wattmeter.  It works just fine, is in like-new condition, and has been
modified with green, yellow and amber LEDs on the lower part of the SWR
scale similar to the upcoming W2 meter.  Complete with all documentation.
Price includes USPS priority mail shipment to your US address.  $65 via
PayPal.

73   Craig   AC0DS



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Re: [Elecraft] W1 - Power readout Low

[Don Wilhelm]

David,

Check Q1 - does it have zero ohms resistance (when powered) from the 
drain to ground?  It should when in the low range, but not in the high 
range.
Q2 and Q5 should behave similarly.

It seems your W1 is stuck in the high range even though the firmware 
thinks otherwise - that would be a logical consequence of a shorted Q1, 
Q2 and/or Q5.

It my guess here is not correct, then the firmware chip itself may have 
a faulty input for the VSCL signal.

73,
Don W3FPR

David Heinsohn wrote:
   I recently built a W1.  It worked fine both via the LEDs and remotely 
 via the puter.  About a week ago the indicated output power dropped such 
 that it always shows less than 1.4w.  The selected output on the K2 is 
 5w.  My old analog 200w scale power meter still shows about 5w as it did 
 when the W1 was agreeing with it.  Any ideas what's changed that might 
 cause this?  I've looked at the manual and checked the settings on the 
 remote program.  Even locked the W1 to the 14w scale with no effect.

 TNX
 de
 kd0r
 David
   

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[Elecraft] W1 - Power readout Low

[David Heinsohn]

  I recently built a W1.  It worked fine both via the LEDs and remotely 
via the puter.  About a week ago the indicated output power dropped such 
that it always shows less than 1.4w.  The selected output on the K2 is 
5w.  My old analog 200w scale power meter still shows about 5w as it did 
when the W1 was agreeing with it.  Any ideas what's changed that might 
cause this?  I've looked at the manual and checked the settings on the 
remote program.  Even locked the W1 to the 14w scale with no effect.

TNX
de
kd0r
David

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Circuit Board

[Brett Howard]

I thought the RoHS compliant stuff that Elecraft is doing was all in the
ENIG process.  I've ordered a K1 and a K3 since RoHS and all the boards
are ENIG.  Perhaps for the W1 they are using IMAg?  

I should explain:
ENIG = Electroless Nickel Immersion Gold (or gold pads)
or
IMAg = Immersion Silver (or silver (whiteish) pads)

For the record both have their pluses and minuses such as the IMAg is
more susceptibile to oxidization and other cleaning issues (cleaning
when the boards are made) where as ENIG is usually less often plagued by
cleaning issues however contamination in the process can lead to whats
referred to as black pads.  ENIG costs a little more and is generally
accepted as slightly better.  Probably mostly because of the higher
cost. ;)

~BTH

On Sat, 2009-07-25 at 19:52 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 David,
 
 I believe that is one version of the RoHS compliant solder pads.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 David Heinsohn wrote:
I just started working on the W1.  So I just really looked at the 
  circuit board.  I noticed that the pads seem to be white rather than 
  silver or gold.  So all you bright folks can tell me what's different 
  and why.  I assume that this is a new and better way to produce a 
  board.  It certanly takes solder OK.
 
  TNX
  de
  KD0R
  David

 
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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Circuit Board

[Matt Palmer]

ENIG is better but unless its class 3 equipment it doesnt make much
difference


Matt
W8ESE
Former KD8DAO




On Sun, Jul 26, 2009 at 5:00 AM, Brett Howardbr...@livecomputers.com wrote:
 I thought the RoHS compliant stuff that Elecraft is doing was all in the
 ENIG process.  I've ordered a K1 and a K3 since RoHS and all the boards
 are ENIG.  Perhaps for the W1 they are using IMAg?

 I should explain:
 ENIG = Electroless Nickel Immersion Gold (or gold pads)
 or
 IMAg = Immersion Silver (or silver (whiteish) pads)

 For the record both have their pluses and minuses such as the IMAg is
 more susceptibile to oxidization and other cleaning issues (cleaning
 when the boards are made) where as ENIG is usually less often plagued by
 cleaning issues however contamination in the process can lead to whats
 referred to as black pads.  ENIG costs a little more and is generally
 accepted as slightly better.  Probably mostly because of the higher
 cost. ;)

 ~BTH

 On Sat, 2009-07-25 at 19:52 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 David,

 I believe that is one version of the RoHS compliant solder pads.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 David Heinsohn wrote:
    I just started working on the W1.  So I just really looked at the
  circuit board.  I noticed that the pads seem to be white rather than
  silver or gold.  So all you bright folks can tell me what's different
  and why.  I assume that this is a new and better way to produce a
  board.  It certanly takes solder OK.
 
  TNX
  de
  KD0R
  David
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Circuit Board

[David Pratt]

On Sun, Jul 26, 2009 at 5:00 AM, Brett Howardbr...@livecomputers.com wrote:
 I thought the RoHS compliant stuff that Elecraft is doing was all in the
 ENIG process.  I've ordered a K1 and a K3 since RoHS and all the boards
 are ENIG.  Perhaps for the W1 they are using IMAg?

Bring back Lead/Tin solder!

We all got our water through lead pipe and brushed our teeth with 
toothpaste from lead tubes.  We got along very nicely until we had to 
find jobs for the legislative bureaucrats.  The world has gone crazy.

73
-- 
David G4DMP
Leeds, England, UK


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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Circuit Board

[Brett Howard]

HASL is the best of all worlds...  Cept for one small problem...  It
really cuts into your European sales! ;)

~Brett

On Sun, 2009-07-26 at 13:03 +0100, David Pratt wrote:
 On Sun, Jul 26, 2009 at 5:00 AM, Brett Howardbr...@livecomputers.com wrote:
  I thought the RoHS compliant stuff that Elecraft is doing was all in the
  ENIG process.  I've ordered a K1 and a K3 since RoHS and all the boards
  are ENIG.  Perhaps for the W1 they are using IMAg?
 
 Bring back Lead/Tin solder!
 
 We all got our water through lead pipe and brushed our teeth with 
 toothpaste from lead tubes.  We got along very nicely until we had to 
 find jobs for the legislative bureaucrats.  The world has gone crazy.
 
 73

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Circuit Board

[gdaught6]

David wrote...

 snip 

 The world has gone crazy.

Perhaps from too much lead ingestion!   8-)

73,



George T Daughters, K6GT
CU in the California QSO Party (CQP)
October 3-4, 2009


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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Circuit Board

[Alan Bloom]

The K3 needs the gold flash coating so that the pushbuttons work
reliably.  That's probably why it uses ENIG.

Al N1AL


On Sun, 2009-07-26 at 02:00 -0700, Brett Howard wrote:
 I thought the RoHS compliant stuff that Elecraft is doing was all in the
 ENIG process.  I've ordered a K1 and a K3 since RoHS and all the boards
 are ENIG.  Perhaps for the W1 they are using IMAg?  
 
 I should explain:
 ENIG = Electroless Nickel Immersion Gold (or gold pads)
 or
 IMAg = Immersion Silver (or silver (whiteish) pads)
 
 For the record both have their pluses and minuses such as the IMAg is
 more susceptibile to oxidization and other cleaning issues (cleaning
 when the boards are made) where as ENIG is usually less often plagued by
 cleaning issues however contamination in the process can lead to whats
 referred to as black pads.  ENIG costs a little more and is generally
 accepted as slightly better.  Probably mostly because of the higher
 cost. ;)
 
 ~BTH
 
 On Sat, 2009-07-25 at 19:52 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:
  David,
  
  I believe that is one version of the RoHS compliant solder pads.
  
  73,
  Don W3FPR
  
  David Heinsohn wrote:
 I just started working on the W1.  So I just really looked at the 
   circuit board.  I noticed that the pads seem to be white rather than 
   silver or gold.  So all you bright folks can tell me what's different 
   and why.  I assume that this is a new and better way to produce a 
   board.  It certanly takes solder OK.
  
   TNX
   de
   KD0R
   David
 
  
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[Elecraft] W1 Circuit Board

[David Heinsohn]

  I just started working on the W1.  So I just really looked at the 
circuit board.  I noticed that the pads seem to be white rather than 
silver or gold.  So all you bright folks can tell me what's different 
and why.  I assume that this is a new and better way to produce a 
board.  It certanly takes solder OK.

TNX
de
KD0R
David

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Circuit Board

[Don Wilhelm]

David,

I believe that is one version of the RoHS compliant solder pads.

73,
Don W3FPR

David Heinsohn wrote:
   I just started working on the W1.  So I just really looked at the 
 circuit board.  I noticed that the pads seem to be white rather than 
 silver or gold.  So all you bright folks can tell me what's different 
 and why.  I assume that this is a new and better way to produce a 
 board.  It certanly takes solder OK.

 TNX
 de
 KD0R
 David
   

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[Elecraft] W1: Announcing the RWD-1 (Remote Wattmeter Display) for the W1

[Dave Van Wallaghen]

Hello all,

Steve Silverman, KB3SII, has designed a remote head for the W1 wattmeter 
that utilizes the serial port and serial commands of the W1 to remotely 
display many of the software functions of the W1 including forward, 
reverse, peak and average power. They are displayed on a Newhaven LCD 
graphic module and Steve has come up with a very nice and tight package 
with a small footprint for very convenient placement. In essence, this 
unit will emulate many of the W1 software commands in a nice hardware 
package without the need for a computer. It will of course be offered 
with one of my Lexan enclosures for protection form the elements and 
operators.

It was our intention to publish some details and pictures on my website 
and make the announcement here on the reflector as well as display the 
unit in the Elecraft booth in Dayton this weekend. But, do to some 
unforeseen and unfortunate circumstances on my end, I am not able to 
update my site before departing for Dayton. In fact, I will not be able 
to arrive in Dayton until Saturday morning. So, I am announcing the 
RWD-1 here in hopes that any of you who are attending Dayton this year 
will drop by on Saturday or Sunday to see a demo version of the unit.

I should have enough time to complete a couple of enclosures for the 
demo units this week and will meet Steve on Saturday to put the demo 
units together. We have not settled on exact pricing as yet, but plan to 
offer the RWD-1 as separate components: the RWD-1 display kit, serial 
cable, and enclosure. Or as a total package. We would value any input 
form those interested in this product by those attending the show or I 
would be happy to answer questions posted on the reflector, although, my 
time will be very restricted for the next few days until I arrive in Dayton.

This is a very exciting project that enhances the W1 nicely and should 
fill the niche of display performance problems noted here on the 
reflector a number of weeks ago. I also believe the RWD-1 will fill a 
gap between the W1 and the new W2 I saw announced by Wayne here today 
(good stuff).

So please drop by the booth and ask me about this project. I will also 
have my enclosures on display as well and be taking in the buzz of all 
that is Elecraft in the booth. I will try to answer any email questions 
you have, but please be patient for my replies for a few days. As time 
permits, I will put up a page on my website with pictures and 
documentation for the RWD-1 along with pricing info.

Take care all and hope to see you in Dayton.

73,
Dave W8FGU


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[Elecraft] W1 Power Meter and W8FGU Case

[Bill Miner]

Hello Elecrafters,
 
I just completed assembly of a W1 Power Meter kit.  It seems to work well with 
good accuracy.  
 
For some reason I had a bit of trouble making good solder connections.  This is 
the first RoHS board that has given me trouble.  It seemed like it took extra 
amounts of time and heat to make good solder joints. Is there some special 
solder flux that should be used when using normal lead solder on an RoHS board?
 
The W8FGU case is very nice.  Fit and finish were perfect and the installation 
instructions on his web site are very clear.  I have some experience working 
with plastics and probably could have made my own case.  However, considering 
time and the cost of materials a DIY case would probably cost more and might 
not turn out as nice.  Many thanks to Dave for providing this service. 
 
73,
Bill - K6WLM
K2
KX1 


  
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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Power Meter and W8FGU Case

[Randy Moore]

I recently also completed the W1 with the W8FGU case and was at least as 
pleased as Bill.  I didn't notice any problems with the soldering, 
however.  I'm still using my non-RoHS Kester solder and simple Weller 
single temp soldering iron that I bought 10 years ago to build my K2 #337!

Anyway, the W1 and the W8FGU case are a great combo!

73,
Randy, KS4L

Bill Miner wrote:
 Hello Elecrafters,
  
 I just completed assembly of a W1 Power Meter kit.  It seems to work well 
 with good accuracy. ...
 The W8FGU case is very nice.  Fit and finish were perfect and the 
 installation instructions on his web site are very clear.  ...
 73,
 Bill - K6WLM
 K2
 KX1 
   
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Re: [Elecraft] W1 Power Meter and W8FGU Case

[Don Wilhelm]

Bill,

I have not had any problems myself, but some boards suck away the heat 
from the soldering iron tip more so than others - and that is true 
whether the boards are RoHS or not.
I routinely use about 750 deg F for soldering and bump it up to 800 deg 
if the board traces are large or there is a large ground plane.
Leaded solder usually works fine with the RoHS boards too.  Just be 
certain to heat the pads adequately - watch for the point when the 
solder flows out onto the pad.  If the solder pads are not adequately 
heated there will be a poor solder connection just waiting until some 
crucial moment to fail.  Murphy strikes at the worst possible moments.

Many, boards that I repair are solved by reflowing the solder with a 
hot soldering iron.  There seems to be a tendency among some builders to 
not heat the solder pads.  Whether that stems from old experiences of 
lifting solder pads on poor boards or fear of damaging components, I 
just don't know, but when using a temperature controlled soldering iron 
and applying heat until the solder flows, those fears should be put to 
rest.  Elecraft uses thru-plated holes on the boards and components will 
stand soldering temperatures for short times (usually 6 to 10 seconds), 
so there should not be a fear of damaging components with soldering heat 
applied for 2 to 3 seconds.  On a normal size solder pad, if the solder 
does not flow in 3 seconds, the iron is not hot enough and if it flows 
in less than 2 seconds the iron is too hot.

My other 'rule' is to use a solder thin enough so you can control the 
amount of solder applied easily (.015 to .020 inch diameter) and a 
mildly activated flux so the flux does not create a mess (Kester 285 is 
my opinion of good solder and flux).

73,
Don W3FPR

Bill Miner wrote:
 Hello Elecrafters,
  
 I just completed assembly of a W1 Power Meter kit.  It seems to work well 
 with good accuracy.  
  
 For some reason I had a bit of trouble making good solder connections.  This 
 is the first RoHS board that has given me trouble.  It seemed like it took 
 extra amounts of time and heat to make good solder joints. Is there some 
 special solder flux that should be used when using normal lead solder on an 
 RoHS board?
  
 The W8FGU case is very nice.  Fit and finish were perfect and the 
 installation instructions on his web site are very clear.  I have some 
 experience working with plastics and probably could have made my own case.  
 However, considering time and the cost of materials a DIY case would probably 
 cost more and might not turn out as nice.  Many thanks to Dave for providing 
 this service. 
  
 73,
 Bill - K6WLM
 K2
 KX1 
   

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[Elecraft] W1 and HexKey enclosures

[Ken Kopp]

I asked Dave about making a smoked W1 enclosure for
me a few weeks ago and I now have the first one.  It will 
be on display at Visalia, along with other cases by Dave.

Dave's HexKey cover has a bottom that the paddle is set 
in before the cover is placed over the key ... a nice feature ...
and the feet are stickier that those on the key, as Fred has
mentioned .  It amounts to a fully-enclosed case for the key.

I've printed a stack of brochures for Dave and will have them 
at Visalia.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
  elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
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Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers

[Dave Van Wallaghen]

Good morning all,
I apologize for the late reply. I was up late last night during my shift 
and the dog and I took a little siesta this morning when I got home ;-)

Just to add a little more info. I looked up the internal Elecraft part 
#'s for the leds used in the W1 and the KAT100 and the red ones are 
specified as different internal part numbers. I sat my W1 next to the 
KAT100 this morning and indeed they physically look different also.

I'm not exactly sure, but I think the Mouser part numbers posted may be 
the leds specified for use in the KAT100 and may be the reason they look 
dimmer.

I don't want to duplicate any efforts here, so has anyone tracked down 
the manufacturers part number for the leds used in the W1 from Elecraft? 
If not, I can surely email Scott and see if he has one that we can cross 
reference with Digi-Key. Usually, if you have at least some type of 
manufacturer number, you can search for it on their web site. Or is that 
what you already did Doug?

Thanks for the generous offers to both Doug and Ken for sending me some 
samples. Maybe we can track this down a little further before we get 
there though.

Thank you all for your time, I didn't realize this was going to take up 
such bandwidth here. Hopefully we're getting closer.

Take care  73,
Dave W8FGU

Doug Joyce wrote:
 Ken / Dave:  Just to let you know, I did this with equivalent / the same 
 parts (I'll provide the part numbers I used later this AM) and at 20 ma 
 fwd current they do indeed seem to all have equivalent brightness.  The 
 problem I found is that when installed in the W1, they don't light up 
 with the same intensity as the red ones supplied.  I used other colours 
 of green, yellow and amber / orange.
  
 I haven't spent a lot of time to investigate, but what I found so far is 
 that the fwd voltage drop on the red LEDs is smaller than on the other 
 colours, and in the W1 cct it is a smaller percentage of the supply 
 voltage of 5 volts.  This results in more fwd current that available for 
 the red compared to the other colours, hence the red appears to be 
 brighter.  The next step I need to do is to actually measure the current 
 provided by the W1 for these other colours.
  
 I got 10 of each when I  ordered then from DigiKey - Dave, if you 
 provide your mailing address, I'll send you a couple of each and you can 
 try then in the W1 as well.
  
 73
  
 Doug,  VE3MV
  
  
  
  
 
 - Original Message -
 *From:* Ken Kopp mailto:k...@rfwave.net
 *To:* w8...@comcast.net mailto:w8...@comcast.net ; Doug Joyce
 mailto:d_jo...@sympatico.ca ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 *Sent:* Thursday, February 19, 2009 10:52 PM
 *Subject:* Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers
 
 I have a set of additional green and yellow LED's
 from Scott at Aptos.  He got them for me from the
 stock bins and didn't include their stock numbers.
  
 I'll light them with a PS and see if their all the same
 brightness and take a photo.
  
 They -should- be the same product line and therefore
 light equally, I'd think.  They're from the KAT-100
 tuner.
  
 Scott was at least receptive to making all the W1
 kits with three colors of LED's.
  
 73! Ken
 
 
 
 I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter http://www.spamfighter.com/len.
 We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam.
 SPAMfighter has removed 1012 of my spam emails to date.
 The Professional version does not have this message.

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers

[Bill Johnson]

I don't think anyone will mind the time spent on this.  I looked in Mouser
catalogue and was unable to find specs for higher output green, yellow and
orange LED's.  I did order the ones originally posted here and they are
installed.  So, please continue on your quest and let me know if I can help.
I would love a replacement set match the output of the red ones.
Personally, I think the W1 is cool!  Now if I could just add another row and
a remote pickup for my amp I would be sooo happy! Heck, this setup is easy
to see, lightening fast reporting even if it is redundant to all the rest of
the meters and readouts.  Just plain cool IMNSHO (In My Not So Humble
Opinion!)


73,

Bill
K9YEQ
K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dave Van Wallaghen


Good morning all,
I apologize for the late reply. I was up late last night during my shift 
and the dog and I took a little siesta this morning when I got home ;-)

Just to add a little more info. I looked up the internal Elecraft part 
#'s for the leds used in the W1 and the KAT100 and the red ones are 
specified as different internal part numbers. I sat my W1 next to the 
KAT100 this morning and indeed they physically look different also.

I'm not exactly sure, but I think the Mouser part numbers posted may be 
the leds specified for use in the KAT100 and may be the reason they look 
dimmer.

I don't want to duplicate any efforts here, so has anyone tracked down 
the manufacturers part number for the leds used in the W1 from Elecraft? 
If not, I can surely email Scott and see if he has one that we can cross 
reference with Digi-Key. Usually, if you have at least some type of 
manufacturer number, you can search for it on their web site. Or is that 
what you already did Doug?

Thanks for the generous offers to both Doug and Ken for sending me some 
samples. Maybe we can track this down a little further before we get 
there though.

Thank you all for your time, I didn't realize this was going to take up 
such bandwidth here. Hopefully we're getting closer.

Take care  73,
Dave W8FGU

Doug Joyce wrote:
 Ken / Dave:  Just to let you know, I did this with equivalent / the same 
 parts (I'll provide the part numbers I used later this AM) and at 20 ma 
 fwd current they do indeed seem to all have equivalent brightness.  The 
 problem I found is that when installed in the W1, they don't light up 
 with the same intensity as the red ones supplied.  I used other colours 
 of green, yellow and amber / orange.
  
 I haven't spent a lot of time to investigate, but what I found so far is 
 that the fwd voltage drop on the red LEDs is smaller than on the other 
 colours, and in the W1 cct it is a smaller percentage of the supply 
 voltage of 5 volts.  This results in more fwd current that available for 
 the red compared to the other colours, hence the red appears to be 
 brighter.  The next step I need to do is to actually measure the current 
 provided by the W1 for these other colours.
  
 I got 10 of each when I  ordered then from DigiKey - Dave, if you 
 provide your mailing address, I'll send you a couple of each and you can 
 try then in the W1 as well.
  
 73
  
 Doug,  VE3MV
  
  
  
  
 
 - Original Message -
 *From:* Ken Kopp mailto:k...@rfwave.net
 *To:* w8...@comcast.net mailto:w8...@comcast.net ; Doug Joyce
 mailto:d_jo...@sympatico.ca ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 *Sent:* Thursday, February 19, 2009 10:52 PM
 *Subject:* Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers
 
 I have a set of additional green and yellow LED's
 from Scott at Aptos.  He got them for me from the
 stock bins and didn't include their stock numbers.
  
 I'll light them with a PS and see if their all the same
 brightness and take a photo.
  
 They -should- be the same product line and therefore
 light equally, I'd think.  They're from the KAT-100
 tuner.
  
 Scott was at least receptive to making all the W1
 kits with three colors of LED's.
  
 73! Ken
 
 
 
 I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter
http://www.spamfighter.com/len.
 We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam.
 SPAMfighter has removed 1012 of my spam emails to date.
 The Professional version does not have this message.

__
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Post

Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers

[Tom, N5GE]

On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 03:52:17 -, you wrote:

I have a set of additional green and yellow LED's
from Scott at Aptos.  He got them for me from the
stock bins and didn't include their stock numbers.

I'll light them with a PS and see if their all the same
brightness and take a photo.

They -should- be the same product line and therefore
light equally, I'd think.  They're from the KAT-100
tuner.

Scott was at least receptive to making all the W1
kits with three colors of LED's.

73! Ken


Good information, Ken.

Last night just before crawling into the sack I realized another
source of the Elecraft PN's might be the LED's used in the power out
displays of the  XVTR's.  You can probably get them by downloading one
of the XV*** manuals.

73,

Tom, N5GE

K3 806
XV144
XV432

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.swotrc.net

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers

[Bill Johnson]

I am not sure if they match the output of the W1's red leds.  IF they do
perfect.  Can anyone test?


Bill


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Tom, N5GE
Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 10:47 AM
To: Ken Kopp
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers

On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 03:52:17 -, you wrote:

I have a set of additional green and yellow LED's
from Scott at Aptos.  He got them for me from the
stock bins and didn't include their stock numbers.

I'll light them with a PS and see if their all the same
brightness and take a photo.

They -should- be the same product line and therefore
light equally, I'd think.  They're from the KAT-100
tuner.

Scott was at least receptive to making all the W1
kits with three colors of LED's.

73! Ken


Good information, Ken.

Last night just before crawling into the sack I realized another
source of the Elecraft PN's might be the LED's used in the power out
displays of the  XVTR's.  You can probably get them by downloading one
of the XV*** manuals.

73,

Tom, N5GE

K3 806
XV144
XV432

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.swotrc.net

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers

[Dave Van Wallaghen]

I just looked them up and they are the same Elecraft part numbers as 
listed for the KAT100.

Just for clarity. The part numbers for the red LED's are:
KAT100, XVTR, XG2 etc  - E570007
W1 - E570026

73,
Dave W8FGU

Tom, N5GE wrote:
 On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 03:52:17 -, you wrote:
 
 I have a set of additional green and yellow LED's
from Scott at Aptos.  He got them for me from the
 stock bins and didn't include their stock numbers.

 I'll light them with a PS and see if their all the same
 brightness and take a photo.

 They -should- be the same product line and therefore
 light equally, I'd think.  They're from the KAT-100
 tuner.

 Scott was at least receptive to making all the W1
 kits with three colors of LED's.

 73! Ken
 
 
 Good information, Ken.
 
 Last night just before crawling into the sack I realized another
 source of the Elecraft PN's might be the LED's used in the power out
 displays of the  XVTR's.  You can probably get them by downloading one
 of the XV*** manuals.
 
 73,
 
 Tom, N5GE
 
 K3 806
 XV144
 XV432
 
 http://www.n5ge.com
 http://www.swotrc.net
 
 
 

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers

[Tom, N5GE]

On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 12:01:32 -0500, you wrote:

I just looked them up and they are the same Elecraft part numbers as 
listed for the KAT100.

Just for clarity. The part numbers for the red LED's are:
KAT100, XVTR, XG2 etc  - E570007
W1 - E570026

73,
Dave W8FGU

[snip]

Hmm...

Well, if the red LED's are the only problem, then why not just replace
them too?

73,

Tom, N5GE

K3 806
XV144
XV432

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.swotrc.net

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers

[Dave Van Wallaghen]

Well, that is certainly a good idea and a good option. (Not to mention 
consistent with the scales on other Elecraft equipment). 

If we can't find the W1 led versions, that may well be the best option.

73,
Dave W8FGU
--Original Message--
From: Tom, N5GE
To: Dave Van Wallaghen
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers
Sent: Feb 20, 2009 12:47 PM

On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 12:01:32 -0500, you wrote:

I just looked them up and they are the same Elecraft part numbers as 
listed for the KAT100.

Just for clarity. The part numbers for the red LED's are:
KAT100, XVTR, XG2 etc  - E570007
W1 - E570026

73,
Dave W8FGU

[snip]

Hmm...

Well, if the red LED's are the only problem, then why not just replace
them too?

73,

Tom, N5GE

K3 806
XV144
XV432

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.swotrc.net


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[Elecraft] W1 LED's

[Ken Kopp]

I must confess that when I replied to Dave about changing
the W1 LED's I inadvertently sent my message to the list.
I didn't intend to do so, but it looks like there's a LOT of
interest in changing the LED colors used in the W1's SWR
display.

I had ordered a W1 and asked Scott to add the yellow and
green LED's to my order, which he did.  I was on the phone
with him while he was looking into the stock bins and he has
my thanks for the trouble he took.  Another example of the
attitude of the Aptos folks.

As Scott pointed out, there would be a good bit of behind-the
scenes work to make the SWR display in all production kits
a three-color display.  Lots of documentation to change and 
verify, etc. I'm sure the designer of the W1 could answer the
questions about the brightness of the three colors.

Perhaps, if/when there's time someone at Aptos can tell us
if such a change might be in the future.  Maybe a Mod kit 
would meet the needs of those of us who want to make the 
change, even if -all- the SWR LED's need to be changed to 
achieve equal brightness in the row.I expect the Aptos 
stockroom has all colors needed, but perhaps it's unrealistic 
to make up change kits and bill them out.  In reality, probably 
not worth the effort.  On the other hand, for those of us in the 
outback, the only alternative is a supply house with a likely 
minimum order fee that's far beyond the LED cost.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
  elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
  
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Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED's

[Bill Johnson]

Ken,  

Thank you for putting it on the list as I would not have necessarily seen
it.  I think Aptos would be supportive of what we are doing.  They may have
the power to get better prices on what we need, or may already possess the
parts to make the change.  Now how many units have sold and what is the
interest... that's another story. We could volunteer to put together a
manual update and kit.  I would be happy to assist.  I have done some manual
writing in my past life working on a software design team and there are
those of us who are interested to put together a well thought out update.  I
would consider it an honor to do so.  

We can move this off list and start our own group until we have finished the
effort.


73,

Bill
K9YEQ
K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken Kopp
Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 1:05 PM


I must confess that when I replied to Dave about changing
the W1 LED's I inadvertently sent my message to the list.
I didn't intend to do so, but it looks like there's a LOT of
interest in changing the LED colors used in the W1's SWR
display.

I had ordered a W1 and asked Scott to add the yellow and
green LED's to my order, which he did.  I was on the phone
with him while he was looking into the stock bins and he has
my thanks for the trouble he took.  Another example of the
attitude of the Aptos folks.

As Scott pointed out, there would be a good bit of behind-the
scenes work to make the SWR display in all production kits
a three-color display.  Lots of documentation to change and 
verify, etc. I'm sure the designer of the W1 could answer the
questions about the brightness of the three colors.

Perhaps, if/when there's time someone at Aptos can tell us
if such a change might be in the future.  Maybe a Mod kit 
would meet the needs of those of us who want to make the 
change, even if -all- the SWR LED's need to be changed to 
achieve equal brightness in the row.I expect the Aptos 
stockroom has all colors needed, but perhaps it's unrealistic 
to make up change kits and bill them out.  In reality, probably 
not worth the effort.  On the other hand, for those of us in the 
outback, the only alternative is a supply house with a likely 
minimum order fee that's far beyond the LED cost.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
  elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
  
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[Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers

[Dave Van Wallaghen]

I read a posting last month about getting the Digi-Key part numbers for 
green and amber/orange rectangle LED's that will fit and have the same 
illumination as the red LED's already installed in the W1.

Did anyone come up with those part #'s? Did they work? I'd be interested 
in retro fitting my W1 SWR scale. The W1 manual only has the Elecraft 
part numbers and no generic description numbers.

Thanks,
Dave W8FGU

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers

[Bill Johnson]

I am waiting on the same thing Dave as I installed the LED's which are
rather dim. It would be fantastic with brighter LED's.  I leave mine in line
as it provides a quick visual between the K3 and the ALS 600, esp when I
just push the tune button in the bypass tuner mode.  The K3 does the same
thing but I just love the LED's on the W1.  


73,

Bill
K9YEQ
K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods
-Original Message-


I read a posting last month about getting the Digi-Key part numbers for 
green and amber/orange rectangle LED's that will fit and have the same 
illumination as the red LED's already installed in the W1.

Did anyone come up with those part #'s? Did they work? I'd be interested 
in retro fitting my W1 SWR scale. The W1 manual only has the Elecraft 
part numbers and no generic description numbers.

Thanks,
Dave W8FGU

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers

[Doug Joyce]

Dave:  That was likely my post.   I'll provide an update when I get a few
minutes tomorrow about the part numbers and the info re the relative
brightness etc.

73, Doug  VE3MV

- Original Message - 
From: Dave Van Wallaghen w8...@comcast.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 9:32 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers


 I read a posting last month about getting the Digi-Key part numbers for
 green and amber/orange rectangle LED's that will fit and have the same
 illumination as the red LED's already installed in the W1.

 Did anyone come up with those part #'s? Did they work? I'd be interested
 in retro fitting my W1 SWR scale. The W1 manual only has the Elecraft
 part numbers and no generic description numbers.

 Thanks,
 Dave W8FGU

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers

[Dave Van Wallaghen]

Thanks a lot Doug. I really appreciate it. If I can get them to match right I'm 
thinking of offering them as an option with my W1 enclosure.

Thanks again  73,
Dave W8FGU

--Original Message--
From: Doug Joyce
To: Dave Van Wallaghen
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers
Sent: Feb 19, 2009 8:21 PM

Dave:  That was likely my post.   I'll provide an update when I get a few
minutes tomorrow about the part numbers and the info re the relative
brightness etc.

73, Doug  VE3MV

- Original Message - 
From: Dave Van Wallaghen w8...@comcast.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 9:32 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] W1 LED Part Numbers


 I read a posting last month about getting the Digi-Key part numbers for
 green and amber/orange rectangle LED's that will fit and have the same
 illumination as the red LED's already installed in the W1.

 Did anyone come up with those part #'s? Did they work? I'd be interested
 in retro fitting my W1 SWR scale. The W1 manual only has the Elecraft
 part numbers and no generic description numbers.

 Thanks,
 Dave W8FGU

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