Re: [Finale] TAN: Tips for Printing and Finishing
On 02.04.2009 Lee Actor wrote: I get all my binding supplies online, which I would think you should be able to order from anywhere. Or do the ones you found only ship to the USA? No, but duty and postage usually make that a rather pricey business. Plus it takes a rather long time. Johannes ___ Finale mailing list Finale@shsu.edu http://lists.shsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/finale
RE: [Finale] TAN: Tips for Printing and Finishing
> I have just realized that plastic coils are completely unavailable in > Germany, it seems. Even wire coils I couldn't find, let alone any > machines for them. The only alternatives to plastic combs are wire combs > (and I have had quite good experiences with them) and a system called > clickbind. I have used clickbind once, and it is certainly a lot better > than combs, but it also does take a lot of space as the special plastic > thingies are large and cannot be bent (which is good). > > Johannes > I get all my binding supplies online, which I would think you should be able to order from anywhere. Or do the ones you found only ship to the USA? -Lee ___ Finale mailing list Finale@shsu.edu http://lists.shsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/finale
Re: [Finale] TAN: Tips for Printing and Finishing
I have just realized that plastic coils are completely unavailable in Germany, it seems. Even wire coils I couldn't find, let alone any machines for them. The only alternatives to plastic combs are wire combs (and I have had quite good experiences with them) and a system called clickbind. I have used clickbind once, and it is certainly a lot better than combs, but it also does take a lot of space as the special plastic thingies are large and cannot be bent (which is good). Johannes ___ Finale mailing list Finale@shsu.edu http://lists.shsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/finale
Re: [Finale] TAN: Tips for Printing and Finishing
Lee Actor wrote: While I can't argue with you about the stackability issue, I've had just as many coil spiral bindings break on me over the years as I've had comb bindings break. I bind many of the scores I print up for my own use in my community band director's job with comb bindings, and they have lasted just fine. And I've never had a problem with noisy page turns while using a score I've comb-bound myself. -- David H. Bailey Are you talking about plastic coils or metal coils? I've been using plastic coils for years and have a hard time even imagining one breaking, short of using wire cutters on it. Lee Actor Composer-in-Residence and Assistant Conductor, Palo Alto Philharmonic Assistant Conductor, Nova Vista Symphony http://www.leeactor.com ___ Finale mailing list Finale@shsu.edu http://lists.shsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/finale Yes, plastic coils. I've not had many of them break, but I have had a few. The same as comb bindings -- I've not had many break, but I have had a few. -- David H. Bailey dhbai...@davidbaileymusicstudio.com ___ Finale mailing list Finale@shsu.edu http://lists.shsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/finale
Re: [Finale] TAN: Tips for Printing and Finishing
On 01.04.2009 Andrew Stiller wrote: The plastic combs I have been using all along are not at all fragile. I have never known one to break on me--and I have specimens going back as far as 1966! Noise is primarily caused by using a binding strip that is too narrow--a common mistake. Put on a comb that is a little wider than you think you need, and almost all the noise goes away. What eventually wears out in a comb-bound volume is not the comb, but the paper; and even so my 1966-67 issues of _Source_ show only minor wear to the covers. You must have a better make of combs than what I get from the local copy shop. I just re-sorted all my music (wow, it took me a long time, but it was necessary after two changes of residence and my music collection mostly consisting of huge piles - although I still knew what was where...) and I found that a lot of stuff which I had comb-bound in the 80s and 90s was completely broken, or mostly broken. It seems that these combs simply give up after a while, and the larger combs I used all the time have the disadvantage of being pressed flat when you stack music in piles. Furthermore I found that in my new sorting system, which uses Leitz archive boxes the comb bound music takes up far more space than it should. Otherwise this system is highly recommended, if anyone is interested. Anyway, when we were recording with WDR a few years back the choir had comb bound scores, and they ended up having to take the combs out as the page turns were too noisy. That tought me, and I haven't touched combs since. I find the wire binding machine from NPC very pricey for the few scores I would use it on. It is certainly not in the budget right now. Johannes ___ Finale mailing list Finale@shsu.edu http://lists.shsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/finale
RE: [Finale] TAN: Tips for Printing and Finishing
> > Are you talking about plastic coils or metal coils? I've been > > using plastic > > coils for years and have a hard time even imagining one breaking, > > short of > > using wire cutters on it. > > I'm the same as you. I'm starting to think there might be regional > quality issues involved here. My coils are tough like nylon, and the > local combs get stiff and crack quickly, but Andrew's big fat comb > binding on his book is pretty good still, and David reports breakage > with coils. > > Christopher I'll add that I've also had Andrew's book for a number of years, and while it has held up well (a couple of the paper holes are almost worn through), the binding exhibits the same excessive friction that every comb binding I've seen has. Just open the book to any page -- it usually takes more than one try to get all the pages to completely open flat. Admittedly that is a very thick book, but the simple fact is that plastic coils have almost no friction, and the pages turn more easily and are much less prone to tearing than those bound by combs. As an extra bonus, the pages open a full 360 degrees. I'm not trying to proselytize, but I've been extremely happy with plastic coils and recommend them highly. Lee Actor Composer-in-Residence and Assistant Conductor, Palo Alto Philharmonic Assistant Conductor, Nova Vista Symphony http://www.leeactor.com ___ Finale mailing list Finale@shsu.edu http://lists.shsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/finale
Re: [Finale] TAN: Tips for Printing and Finishing
On 1-Apr-09, at 1-Apr-09 5:55 PM, Lee Actor wrote: While I can't argue with you about the stackability issue, I've had just as many coil spiral bindings break on me over the years as I've had comb bindings break. I bind many of the scores I print up for my own use in my community band director's job with comb bindings, and they have lasted just fine. And I've never had a problem with noisy page turns while using a score I've comb-bound myself. -- David H. Bailey Are you talking about plastic coils or metal coils? I've been using plastic coils for years and have a hard time even imagining one breaking, short of using wire cutters on it. I'm the same as you. I'm starting to think there might be regional quality issues involved here. My coils are tough like nylon, and the local combs get stiff and crack quickly, but Andrew's big fat comb binding on his book is pretty good still, and David reports breakage with coils. Christopher ___ Finale mailing list Finale@shsu.edu http://lists.shsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/finale
RE: [Finale] TAN: Tips for Printing and Finishing
> While I can't argue with you about the stackability issue, > I've had just as many coil spiral bindings break on me over > the years as I've had comb bindings break. I bind many of > the scores I print up for my own use in my community band > director's job with comb bindings, and they have lasted just > fine. > > And I've never had a problem with noisy page turns while > using a score I've comb-bound myself. > > -- > David H. Bailey Are you talking about plastic coils or metal coils? I've been using plastic coils for years and have a hard time even imagining one breaking, short of using wire cutters on it. Lee Actor Composer-in-Residence and Assistant Conductor, Palo Alto Philharmonic Assistant Conductor, Nova Vista Symphony http://www.leeactor.com ___ Finale mailing list Finale@shsu.edu http://lists.shsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/finale
Re: [Finale] TAN: Tips for Printing and Finishing
Christopher Smith wrote: I have a phone book that I print out every year or two on my computer, cut into quarters and bind. It goes in and out of my coat pocket, or the side pouch of my bag, or gets thrown into my trombone gig bag. Granted, this is a torture test, but the comb bindings I have used have all broken in a few months and the paper holes are worn or worn out, whereas the plastic coil binding I used last is still going strong after two years. Not much music gets subject to THAT kind of wear (unless you are teaching high school or amateur choirs) but it made the point for me. Plus, if you are in the habit of stacking your music flat, the coils can fit in between each other but the combs don't. While I can't argue with you about the stackability issue, I've had just as many coil spiral bindings break on me over the years as I've had comb bindings break. I bind many of the scores I print up for my own use in my community band director's job with comb bindings, and they have lasted just fine. And I've never had a problem with noisy page turns while using a score I've comb-bound myself. -- David H. Bailey dhbai...@davidbaileymusicstudio.com ___ Finale mailing list Finale@shsu.edu http://lists.shsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/finale
Re: [Finale] TAN: Tips for Printing and Finishing
On 1-Apr-09, at 1-Apr-09 3:03 PM, Andrew Stiller wrote: On Mar 31, 2009, at 8:46 AM, Christopher Smith wrote: The plastic coils I got for the CoilMac are sturdy and quiet. I have never broken one yet. Combs, on the other hand, ARE noisy and fragile. The plastic combs I have been using all along are not at all fragile. I have never known one to break on me--and I have specimens going back as far as 1966! Noise is primarily caused by using a binding strip that is too narrow--a common mistake. Put on a comb that is a little wider than you think you need, and almost all the noise goes away. Yes, I agree. Same thing applies for spirals. The next size larger than recommended is best for quiet page turns. I still maintain, however, that the greater edge area of the rectangular holes for combs makes for noisier page turns than the thinner, smoother spirals. What eventually wears out in a comb-bound volume is not the comb, but the paper; and even so my 1966-67 issues of _Source_ show only minor wear to the covers. I have a phone book that I print out every year or two on my computer, cut into quarters and bind. It goes in and out of my coat pocket, or the side pouch of my bag, or gets thrown into my trombone gig bag. Granted, this is a torture test, but the comb bindings I have used have all broken in a few months and the paper holes are worn or worn out, whereas the plastic coil binding I used last is still going strong after two years. Not much music gets subject to THAT kind of wear (unless you are teaching high school or amateur choirs) but it made the point for me. Plus, if you are in the habit of stacking your music flat, the coils can fit in between each other but the combs don't. I have a comb-bound edition of your Handbook of Instrumentation that sees heavy use (!) and it is standing up very well, all considered. Maybe the quality of the paper and the combs you used is better than the ones I get around here. Christopher ___ Finale mailing list Finale@shsu.edu http://lists.shsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/finale
Re: [Finale] TAN: Tips for Printing and Finishing
On Mar 31, 2009, at 8:46 AM, Christopher Smith wrote: The plastic coils I got for the CoilMac are sturdy and quiet. I have never broken one yet. Combs, on the other hand, ARE noisy and fragile. The plastic combs I have been using all along are not at all fragile. I have never known one to break on me--and I have specimens going back as far as 1966! Noise is primarily caused by using a binding strip that is too narrow--a common mistake. Put on a comb that is a little wider than you think you need, and almost all the noise goes away. What eventually wears out in a comb-bound volume is not the comb, but the paper; and even so my 1966-67 issues of _Source_ show only minor wear to the covers. Andrew Stiller Kallisti Music Press http://www.kallistimusic.com/ ___ Finale mailing list Finale@shsu.edu http://lists.shsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/finale
Re: [Finale] TAN: Tips for Printing and Finishing
Yup, I forgot to plug Nick! I got mine from him, too, and it is great and competitively priced. Christopher On 31-Mar-09, at 31-Mar-09 10:51 AM, Chuck Israels wrote: I use plastic coils and an Akiles punch (bought from Nick Carter) and find them to be quiet, strong and practical. Chuck Sent from my iPhone On Mar 31, 2009, at 5:46 AM, Christopher Smith wrote: On Mar 31, 2009, at 7:36 AM, Johannes Gebauer wrote: Most of my full scores are 11"x14", which I bind myself using an Akiles Coil-Mac and a supply of 36" plastic coils; so far, 3 different sizes of coils (8mm, 10mm, and 12mm) have been adequate to handle all my scores from smallest to largest (140+ pages -- no operas yet). There are several advantages to investing in the equipment to bind your scores yourself instead of taking them to a place like Kinko's, not the least of which is that they typically only carry 12" coils -- not ideal for larger conductor's scores. For other reasons not to go to Kinko's, fill in your favorite horror story here: _ (everyone who's been to a Kinko's has one). I would not use plastic coils ever again. They break easily, and they are too noisy for any recording situation. I am tempted to get a wire binding system, but they are quite expensive. I don't really need those often, so the local photocopying shop will usually do. Are you talking about coils (the Coil Mac, which I have, does spiral coils) or combs (Cerlox bindings?) The plastic coils I got for the CoilMac are sturdy and quiet. I have never broken one yet. Combs, on the other hand, ARE noisy and fragile. Plus, the nearest place that can do coils is 10 kilometers away. I own my own machine now for that reason. Christopher ___ Finale mailing list Finale@shsu.edu http://lists.shsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/finale
Re: [Finale] TAN: Tips for Printing and Finishing
On 31.03.2009 Christopher Smith wrote: Are you talking about coils (the Coil Mac, which I have, does spiral coils) or combs (Cerlox bindings?) The plastic coils I got for the CoilMac are sturdy and quiet. I have never broken one yet. Combs, on the other hand, ARE noisy and fragile. Ah, I was talking about combs I guess. I must have a look at the coils. Johannes ___ Finale mailing list Finale@shsu.edu http://lists.shsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/finale
Re: [Finale] TAN: Tips for Printing and Finishing
I use plastic coils and an Akiles punch (bought from Nick Carter) and find them to be quiet, strong and practical. Chuck Sent from my iPhone On Mar 31, 2009, at 5:46 AM, Christopher Smith > wrote: On Mar 31, 2009, at 7:36 AM, Johannes Gebauer wrote: Most of my full scores are 11"x14", which I bind myself using an Akiles Coil-Mac and a supply of 36" plastic coils; so far, 3 different sizes of coils (8mm, 10mm, and 12mm) have been adequate to handle all my scores from smallest to largest (140+ pages -- no operas yet). There are several advantages to investing in the equipment to bind your scores yourself instead of taking them to a place like Kinko's, not the least of which is that they typically only carry 12" coils -- not ideal for larger conductor's scores. For other reasons not to go to Kinko's, fill in your favorite horror story here: _ (everyone who's been to a Kinko's has one). I would not use plastic coils ever again. They break easily, and they are too noisy for any recording situation. I am tempted to get a wire binding system, but they are quite expensive. I don't really need those often, so the local photocopying shop will usually do. Are you talking about coils (the Coil Mac, which I have, does spiral coils) or combs (Cerlox bindings?) The plastic coils I got for the CoilMac are sturdy and quiet. I have never broken one yet. Combs, on the other hand, ARE noisy and fragile. Plus, the nearest place that can do coils is 10 kilometers away. I own my own machine now for that reason. Christopher ___ Finale mailing list Finale@shsu.edu http://lists.shsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/finale ___ Finale mailing list Finale@shsu.edu http://lists.shsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/finale
Re: [Finale] TAN: Tips for Printing and Finishing
Carlberg Jones wrote: At 9:31 AM -0400 3/31/09, dhbailey wrote: I have a long-arm stapler which has a spring-metal clip that can be placed on the base at the precise distance you want from the edge to the staple (8.5" on 11x17 paper) so that all I have to do is to hold the two edges of this clip against the edge of the paper and then the staple will be placed at the precise distance and parallel to the edge of the paper. Will you please post the brand and model number? Thanks. It's the Swingline 44-12 Long Reach Stapler. Amazon has it for around $30 -- just do a search for Swingline Long Reach Stapler. -- David H. Bailey dhbai...@davidbaileymusicstudio.com ___ Finale mailing list Finale@shsu.edu http://lists.shsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/finale
Re: [Finale] TAN: Tips for Printing and Finishing
At 9:31 AM -0400 3/31/09, dhbailey wrote: I have a long-arm stapler which has a spring-metal clip that can be placed on the base at the precise distance you want from the edge to the staple (8.5" on 11x17 paper) so that all I have to do is to hold the two edges of this clip against the edge of the paper and then the staple will be placed at the precise distance and parallel to the edge of the paper. Will you please post the brand and model number? Thanks. -- Carlberg Jones Skype - carlbergbmug Cornista - Orquesta Sinfónica de Aguascalientes Aguascalientes, Ags. MEXICO ___ Finale mailing list Finale@shsu.edu http://lists.shsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/finale
Re: [Finale] TAN: Tips for Printing and Finishing
On Mar 31, 2009, at 7:36 AM, Johannes Gebauer wrote: Most of my full scores are 11"x14", which I bind myself using an Akiles Coil-Mac and a supply of 36" plastic coils; so far, 3 different sizes of coils (8mm, 10mm, and 12mm) have been adequate to handle all my scores from smallest to largest (140+ pages -- no operas yet). There are several advantages to investing in the equipment to bind your scores yourself instead of taking them to a place like Kinko's, not the least of which is that they typically only carry 12" coils -- not ideal for larger conductor's scores. For other reasons not to go to Kinko's, fill in your favorite horror story here: _ (everyone who's been to a Kinko's has one). I would not use plastic coils ever again. They break easily, and they are too noisy for any recording situation. I am tempted to get a wire binding system, but they are quite expensive. I don't really need those often, so the local photocopying shop will usually do. Are you talking about coils (the Coil Mac, which I have, does spiral coils) or combs (Cerlox bindings?) The plastic coils I got for the CoilMac are sturdy and quiet. I have never broken one yet. Combs, on the other hand, ARE noisy and fragile. Plus, the nearest place that can do coils is 10 kilometers away. I own my own machine now for that reason. Christopher ___ Finale mailing list Finale@shsu.edu http://lists.shsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/finale
Re: [Finale] TAN: Tips for Printing and Finishing
Johannes Gebauer wrote: On 31.03.2009 Lee Actor wrote: My method is very similar (even to using the same printer), except that I staple first and then fold. I've got the paper guide on my long-arm stapler carefully set so that the staples enter precisely at the midpoint of the booklet (8.5" in my case, as I use 11"x17" paper for booklets). Folding is much easier when the part is already stapled, and I'm very picky about the precision of the fold (BTW, at one time I used 3 staples per booklet, but have found that 2 staples, placed appr. 1.75" from the top and bottom edges, are far superior). That's interesting. Unfortunately I have never been able to staple accurately enough without already having a folding line there. I will try my luck again, perhaps my current stapler won't work for that. On the other hand I find it interesting that you can get your staples precise enough, as that certainly makes the folding easier. [snip] I have a long-arm stapler which has a spring-metal clip that can be placed on the base at the precise distance you want from the edge to the staple (8.5" on 11x17 paper) so that all I have to do is to hold the two edges of this clip against the edge of the paper and then the staple will be placed at the precise distance and parallel to the edge of the paper. -- David H. Bailey dhbai...@davidbaileymusicstudio.com ___ Finale mailing list Finale@shsu.edu http://lists.shsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/finale
Re: [Finale] TAN: Tips for Printing and Finishing
On 31.03.2009 Lee Actor wrote: My method is very similar (even to using the same printer), except that I staple first and then fold. I've got the paper guide on my long-arm stapler carefully set so that the staples enter precisely at the midpoint of the booklet (8.5" in my case, as I use 11"x17" paper for booklets). Folding is much easier when the part is already stapled, and I'm very picky about the precision of the fold (BTW, at one time I used 3 staples per booklet, but have found that 2 staples, placed appr. 1.75" from the top and bottom edges, are far superior). That's interesting. Unfortunately I have never been able to staple accurately enough without already having a folding line there. I will try my luck again, perhaps my current stapler won't work for that. On the other hand I find it interesting that you can get your staples precise enough, as that certainly makes the folding easier. I use this format for most parts, and reduced scores up to 36 pages (9 sheets of heavyweight 105 g/m2 paper, plus a heavy stock cover, which is about the limit my stapler can handle). As you mention, a heavy duty precision rotary trimmer is a must, though I find that trimming isn't really necessary until the part reaches maybe 16 pages, as page creep isn't particularly objectionable on smaller parts. I wasted a lot of money on a "rolling trimmer", is that what you call a rotary trimmer? I bought one which was specified to cut up to 30 sheets, but it didn't really. So a couple of weeks ago I eventually ordered a Dahle 561 Guillotine cutter, and that is truely excellent. Most of my full scores are 11"x14", which I bind myself using an Akiles Coil-Mac and a supply of 36" plastic coils; so far, 3 different sizes of coils (8mm, 10mm, and 12mm) have been adequate to handle all my scores from smallest to largest (140+ pages -- no operas yet). There are several advantages to investing in the equipment to bind your scores yourself instead of taking them to a place like Kinko's, not the least of which is that they typically only carry 12" coils -- not ideal for larger conductor's scores. For other reasons not to go to Kinko's, fill in your favorite horror story here: _ (everyone who's been to a Kinko's has one). I would not use plastic coils ever again. They break easily, and they are too noisy for any recording situation. I am tempted to get a wire binding system, but they are quite expensive. I don't really need those often, so the local photocopying shop will usually do. I am intrigued by your method of stapling, as my stapler (like many) turns back the legs of the staple so they're curved, and I'd really prefer them to be flat against the paper. Or I could look into a heavy duty saddle stapler, but they tend to be kind of expensive (starting at $150-$200). The curved legs were the reason I had this idea. It was actually much easier than I anticipated, although I broke two steel drills. Here is what I did: My stapler has two ways of bending the legs, inward and outward. I never use the outward setting anyway, so I drilled two holes in it (2mm drill) right at the place where the legs go through. It works amazingly well. And I can staple much thicker booklets this way. Bending the legs by hand is easy, and the whole thing really looks much more professional. Keep the tips and tricks coming... Johannes ___ Finale mailing list Finale@shsu.edu http://lists.shsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/finale
RE: [Finale] TAN: Tips for Printing and Finishing
My method is very similar (even to using the same printer), except that I staple first and then fold. I've got the paper guide on my long-arm stapler carefully set so that the staples enter precisely at the midpoint of the booklet (8.5" in my case, as I use 11"x17" paper for booklets). Folding is much easier when the part is already stapled, and I'm very picky about the precision of the fold (BTW, at one time I used 3 staples per booklet, but have found that 2 staples, placed appr. 1.75" from the top and bottom edges, are far superior). I use this format for most parts, and reduced scores up to 36 pages (9 sheets of heavyweight 105 g/m2 paper, plus a heavy stock cover, which is about the limit my stapler can handle). As you mention, a heavy duty precision rotary trimmer is a must, though I find that trimming isn't really necessary until the part reaches maybe 16 pages, as page creep isn't particularly objectionable on smaller parts. Most of my full scores are 11"x14", which I bind myself using an Akiles Coil-Mac and a supply of 36" plastic coils; so far, 3 different sizes of coils (8mm, 10mm, and 12mm) have been adequate to handle all my scores from smallest to largest (140+ pages -- no operas yet). There are several advantages to investing in the equipment to bind your scores yourself instead of taking them to a place like Kinko's, not the least of which is that they typically only carry 12" coils -- not ideal for larger conductor's scores. For other reasons not to go to Kinko's, fill in your favorite horror story here: _ (everyone who's been to a Kinko's has one). I am intrigued by your method of stapling, as my stapler (like many) turns back the legs of the staple so they're curved, and I'd really prefer them to be flat against the paper. Or I could look into a heavy duty saddle stapler, but they tend to be kind of expensive (starting at $150-$200). One other tip on folding: to ensure that a part lays flat on a music stand, it's critical to fold and crease the pages in the opposite direction to the original fold. I also go through the part page by page and crease each fold. Lee Actor Composer-in-Residence and Assistant Conductor, Palo Alto Philharmonic Assistant Conductor, Nova Vista Symphony http://www.leeactor.com > > I wonder whether there would be interest to start a discussion about > printing, binding and finishing scores and parts. > > Just to start this let me describe what I typically do. > > I have a HP 5000 printer, so I can print large sheets pretty easily. So > I prepare all my scores and parts as PDF booklets (I use CocoaBooklet, > but I believe this would even work through Acrobat itself, it is just > easier using this Mac Application). > > I fold the sheets over. I have started to do this in bunches of four. > I'd love to hear how others do this. I use my paper cutter as an > alignment tool. > > I then staple using a long arm stapler, and I have recently modified it, > so that the staples are not bent but instead go through the paper and > two holes in the stapler (which I drilled), then I bend them over > myself. This works much better in my experience, especially with thicker > booklets. > > Eventually I trim the front. I just bought a rather big and sturdy paper > cutter for this purpose. If I don't do this, in addition to the > unprofessional look, page turns can become difficult at times. > > I'd love to hear from others about some tips they have accumulated over > the years. I am especially interested hearing about better methods to > fold the sheets. > > Johannes > ___ > Finale mailing list > Finale@shsu.edu > http://lists.shsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/finale > ___ Finale mailing list Finale@shsu.edu http://lists.shsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/finale
[Finale] TAN: Tips for Printing and Finishing
I wonder whether there would be interest to start a discussion about printing, binding and finishing scores and parts. Just to start this let me describe what I typically do. I have a HP 5000 printer, so I can print large sheets pretty easily. So I prepare all my scores and parts as PDF booklets (I use CocoaBooklet, but I believe this would even work through Acrobat itself, it is just easier using this Mac Application). I fold the sheets over. I have started to do this in bunches of four. I'd love to hear how others do this. I use my paper cutter as an alignment tool. I then staple using a long arm stapler, and I have recently modified it, so that the staples are not bent but instead go through the paper and two holes in the stapler (which I drilled), then I bend them over myself. This works much better in my experience, especially with thicker booklets. Eventually I trim the front. I just bought a rather big and sturdy paper cutter for this purpose. If I don't do this, in addition to the unprofessional look, page turns can become difficult at times. I'd love to hear from others about some tips they have accumulated over the years. I am especially interested hearing about better methods to fold the sheets. Johannes ___ Finale mailing list Finale@shsu.edu http://lists.shsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/finale
