Re: riding arena crowning
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] There is a very useful booklet made available by the USDF (United States Dressage Federation) on arena construction. I think their number is 402-434-8550 or they can be reached at www.usdf.org. It's extremely helpful for any type of arena. It includes much information on drainage, slopping, materials, base, etc. I built an arena this year and opted for a gradual slope over a 200' area (about a foot of fall) instead of a crown because you cannot feel the slope at all when you ride. Sometimes a horse can have a tough time with a crowned arena, especially if you ride a lot of circles. I think the booklet would be most helpful before you begin construction.
Re: new Fjord owner
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I live in southern Ca. and blanket my Fjords throughout the winter once they have been clipped. They are worked 5 days a week and if I left their thick, winter coats on and worked them hard in often 80 temperatures, they would not only be miserable, but physically stressed from the heat. They just wilt in the heat with those heavy coats. I usually have to clip twice, November and then again in January. The horses probably get acclimatized and a 40 degree night can be very cold to a clipped horse when it's been in the 70's and 80's during the day.
Re: PMU Fjord-cross foals for adoption
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] If you have had this discussion before, I must have missed it. Sorry!
Re: PMU Fjord-cross foals for adoption
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I have talked many women out of using Premarin and switching to estrogen replacement hormones made from other sources than mare's urine. There are several that are manufactured from sweet potatoes that work just as well according to their doctors. And the women seem just as satisfied with the other medication. From the literature I have read from PETA, and the photos I have seen of the farming practices used to collect mare's urine, it is a practice that seems cruel to any horse lover. Similar to veal farming. And there is the issue with the discarded foals. If List readers looked in to this, maybe they can "convert" more women into switching from Premarin to something else.
Re: stall flooring
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I have just built a new barn and after much research, I chose dirt floors and shavings for several reasons. Even though cement is easier to care for, it is still hard on the legs even with stall mats and tons of shavings.(Fjords do seem to eat straw). You can actually feel this yourself by standing in such a stall and then comparing it to the outside. The rubber mats make stall cleaning much easier but they do hold the wet shavings right there and the ammonia is more under foot and hard on hooves. And several of my horses were getting black rubber sore spots on their hocks where the rubber rubbed off the hair when they got up. The best stall material I ever had was clay. I can't find it in Ca., otherwise I would have used that. Maybe you could start with clay, native dirt or a compacted DG product and see how if works first. If you start with a cement floor, you are more or less stuck with it.
Re: Hoof Problems
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I'm certainly not expert on feet, but my Fjords, and most Fjords that I have been around seem to have thin walls or thin soles or both. I have seen a few Fjords with a good, thick wall, but the majority of the ones I've had any experience with tend to be on the thin side. I assume it is a genetic thing. I have fed a good biotin supplement for years and I think it makes somewhat of a difference, but it does not seem to make the walls any thicker, it just improves on what you have. It takes about 6 months to see any difference. Exercise does help hoof condition because of the increased circulation to the hoof. If your horses are thin walled, you need to have a good farrier that is careful with nailing and trimming.
Re: Teeth,testicles etc.
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I have been experiencing some problems with the testicles of two young Welsh colts that I own, and believe me, you want to avoid this in the Fjord breed because it is more trouble than meets the eye. One colt, at 1 1/2yrs.has dropped only one testicle and has to be sent to the hospital to be gelded, an extra expense and more dangerous for the animal. The other colt, at 11 mos. old was sold as a top stallion prospect. And he is spectacular! However, he is showing no testicles at all upon veterinary examination. At this age, the vets feel they should detect "something" up there. Since this colt was purchased as a potential show animal,(at 6mos. old) what would he be shown as?? If neither testicle drops we are in for a rough time. When I called the breeder of these Welsh ponies, he did say he has had some trouble with this, but he," didn't think too much about it," unfortunately. Also, I'm not sure, but I think the mares might carry this type of genetic problem because these two colts are from different stallions, but their mother's are related.
Re: Arena floor
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I think the arena material that looks like shredded foam is actually shredded sneakers. I'm not positive, but I do remember seeing this before and being told that is what it was.
Re: Brushing the Tail
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Some more thoughts on tail care..I have been asked many times by people, "What do you do, your horses' tails are so full and beautiful?" My answer always seems to surprise them. I hardly touch them at all unless they are going to a show. If the horse is showing, his tail gets washed, allowed to dry (never comb a wet tail!) and then some conditioning agent is applied like Cowboy Magic or Show Sheen. Then I use my fingers to rake through the tail and remove any snags before I carefully brush it with a human hair brush. I keep the tail banged on the bottom and I am usually cutting off a few inches every month. I do know the Fjords' tail seems to get itchy in this dry, dusty climate and if I see them start to rub, I will rinse the tail with plain water or wash the dock with soap. I don't know if all this matters, but my friend who brushes her Arab's tail everyday, has a very skimpy tail.
Re: Finding The Right Dressage Saddle
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] As a rider who's focus is on dressage, I hope I can give you a few tips on saddles. For years I competed warmbloods until recently where I have been competing on a Fjord. Both types of horses needed the proper fit and width to make them comfortable and allow free shoulder movement. However, sometimes fitting your horse with the correct width can present problems for the rider as the tree can become so wide, or the so called "twist" of the saddle that it becomes uncomfortable for the rider. Most good dressage saddles put you in position similar to you standing on the floor, they don't lean you forward nor put you in a chair position. Good saddles are going to cost from $1,200-up unless you can find a used one, but they don't depreciate in value much. There are many popular brands like Passier, Nedersuiess(sp?), County, etc., and it becomes a matter of personal choice. I heard Wintec makes a good synthetic dressage saddle. Some of these saddles put your legs in slightly different positions. But your own body conformation, the length of your leg, the size of your hips, your upper body. etc. all are factors when picking a saddle. The only way to know is to try several different ones for a test ride. Many tack stores will let you try out the saddle for a week. Dressage Extensions store where you can order saddles from a catalog has the same policy. Riding in the saddle is the ONLY way to see if it will work. I tried out 4 different ones before I ended up with a custom made Passier that fits both my very wide horse and me. If you have difficulty finding a tack store that does this, you could contact me and I can give you the name of one that ships anywhere and allows a 30 day try out.
Re: Bitting
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] On the subject of thin bits for Fjords, I have found the best luck with my bradoon snaffle bit. This is the thin snaffle that is normally used with a double bridle and it is quite thin, but I use it as my regular bit. It seems to fit this Fjord's mouth well and he goes very well with it. The thick snaffle interfered with his mouth and I think stuck him in the roof of his mouth when it was used. The bradoon is a legal bit for showing in AHSA/USDF dressage shows.
Re: Young Stallion Show in Alsfeld, Germany
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Could you give a description of what the stallion Kjorna, the overall champion, was like in terms of height, conformation and movement? Thank you!
Re: fallabella?
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] They are a miniature horse that I believe originated in South America. They look like small thoroughbreds and I think they are named after the person who did the initial breeding...
Re: THE DUTCH KEURINGS -
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I wanted to comment on the Dutch Keurings because I did have an opportunity to watch some of the Keuring in Ca.; the first time I have ever seen any Keuring. I can tell you it was absolutely valuable, educational and fun! Not to detract from an American evaluation of which I have never seen, Mr.von Bon had an incredible eye and understanding of the mechanics of the horse. And he has had 35 years of experience with the Fjord horse. To me, that level of experience is what separates him from any other evaluator. I strongly suggest if the Dutch Keuring ever happens again in the US, make a point to go. You cannot go to an event like this without gaining some knowledge.
Re: colic and insurance
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I know many vets will not agree with this, but the horses that I have experience with that had been on the Strongid C daily program came in my barn all alike: dull coat with long hair, poor tone and blood and fecal tests that indicated a WORM LOAD despite this daily dose of wormer. My vet says giving a daily dose of wormer is a good way to have worms that will be resistant. Some of the larvae will survive and be tougher to kill. Also, I am not sure giving a toxic substance everyday is a good thing for the horse's system.
Re: Tyr is SO slow.
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] For your lazy Fjord...have you ruled out any physical problems and/or training problems? Has he been trained to go forward with the right aids? Another thing might be if he is shod or barefoot. There would be a 1/2 mile between me and my trail partner until I got shoes put on my Fjord when he was young. I find many Fjords to have thin soles and thin hoof walls and go slow when they are "ouch" on their feet. Just a thought.
Re: Buller invited to Royal Ascot
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Could you tell some more about Royal Ascot? Is it a horse show or an exhibition? Thank you!
Re: Heat
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I live in a warm climate where clipping my Fjord's is a necessity if they are worked. I think the type of clip you do depends on how you use your horse. If he is shown, he'll need a full body clip. If not, you could get by with a trace clip where the body is clipped but the hair is left on the legs. I think these clips look funny but they cut the clipping time in half and afford the horse's legs some protection from brush, etc. if you trail ride. Your horse will need to be blanketed at night and sheeted during a cool day if he is clipped, otherwise the temperature change cannot only make him cold but susceptible to colic.
Re: Salt/Mineral Blocks
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] In the discussion of salt blocks you said that you read that they could be bad for horses. I was recently told by my vet not to let my Fjord gelding eat the mineral salt block for a while because he is a horse that likes to eat salt and he finished a 5lb. salt block in less than two weeks. My vet was indicating that my horse could be getting too much copper and this can irratate his tendons. Some salt blocks contain selinium too and heavy metals can be dangerous if too much is consumed. I have never heard of this before, but on this particular horse, I give him only the white salt block now.
Re: Head
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] All good riding, English or Western, employs the use of leg and seat aids in conjunction with rein aids. If you just pull the head as you mentioned, you tend to just unbalance the horse and the horse cannot turn properly. In addition to the rider knowing how to apply leg, seat and rein aids, the horse also has to be trained to understand the different cues you are giving him. I would suggest you find a good instructor to help you with this, or at the very least, you can read up on some of the basics. I know of several good books and you can email me privately if you are interested.
Re: sarcoids Can they just go away???
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I have not read the Horse Illustrated article on sarcoids yet, but I will pass on the information I got on them from the Chino Valley Equine Hospital. The doctor there said that they do not know the exact cause of sarcoids but they appear to be viral in nature (like herpes,ugh!) and tend to run in different herds. He said chances are that if you horse has sarcoids, he has been exposed to them from his herd situation. I don't know if that means they are contagious, or that certain individuals are susceptible to the virus.
Re: Sarcoid
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] My horse is getting a rather large sarcoid near the tip on his ear. It started out about the size of a pea and now, it is about the size of a grape. The vet recommends removing it before it gets bigger and more difficult to remove since it can affect the ear leather. He wants to have it removed with a laser, which is a common method now, apparently. Has anyone else had this done? My reluctancy to do this is because the horse will have to be anesthetized and put on an operating table for the laser. However, if it is just cut off, there is no guarantee the ear won't be damaged and he could end up with the tip of the ear gone or worse. I wish the sarcoid was in another spot!
Re: Lameness question
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] You can't tell for sure what's wrong with Thor without radiographs. Knowing for sure is well worth the price. It could be a lot of other things other than side bone or ringbone, even shoeing or trimming issues. I just went through months of a vague lameness with one of my horses and it turned out his heels were very sore from shoes that where too small and they were putting pressure on his heels and frogs. It sure did help to have a set of x-rays to verify his condition, though.
Re: Our Clutzy mare
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I wanted to reply to your Fjord being clumsy as this is one of the biggest criticisms I hear about the breed from many people. There have been many discussions on this List about tripping, conformation and way of going and how it varies from one horse to another. I guess I am in the camp that attributes conformation and breeding to whether or not the horse moves well and can carry himself with tripping, etc. There is a night and day difference between my two Fjord geldings when it comes to movement and tripping. I would say watch your mare on a longe line with the help of someone knowledgeable to really see how she is moving. Make sure she is shod with a balanced foot and not too much toe. Before you can help her, it is always good to know exactly what she is doing with her feet when she trots and canters. Is she catching her toes, interfering, toeing in or out, etc. Without seeing her, but from how you describe her, she sounds like she does not have enough strength yet in her hind quarters to carry herself and the weight of the rider properly. Weaving around, not paying attention are things horses can do when they are first broke and do not know the aids very well. Hopefully, you can find a good trainer that can help you get started and your mare will develop some strength and training and be safer for you to ride.
Re: zimectrin...white line
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] If you read the ads for Zimectrin it sounds like that is the only wormer you have to use and it will kill all types of parasites. Wellmy Fjord started to loose weight one summer and act very tired. I thought he was sick and called the vet. I told him I wormed every 8 weeks with only Zimectrin, so I thought I had the worming covered. That wasn't the case. His blood work showed a very high histamine level which can indicate a large worm load. The vet tube wormed him once with a stronger dose of another type of wormer, and then we followed up weeks later with a different paste wormer. It took a while, but he finally started to get back to normal. So rotating products is still necessary despite what you read. And we discussed not using those products that you give daily like Strongid C, because it is a good way to create a resistance by giving a low dose every day. I now rotate with 4-5 different paste wormers and never have had this problem again.
Re: white line fungus
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Ingrid, I had experienced the "white line" disease with several imported horses from Europe that had spent time in pasture. They arrived with rather mild cases and it shows itself as a crumbly hoof wall between the outside wall and the next layer, the white layer. The white layer gets very soft and falls away. It is caused by a fungus. Left untreated, it travels through the hoof and can eat away at the entire hoof. I've seen horses with 1/4 of their hoof wall missing, and it had to be constructed with plastics to save it. In my case, the farrier carved areas out of the hoof that were about the size of a quarter and packed it with some type of iodine packing. I don't know if it ever goes entirely away, but it always had to be managed by the farrier trimming it away before it spread. I know it is made worse by the wet conditions that the fungus seems to like. I am not sure shoeing the horse will improve the condition, because we found the condition was worse right under the shoes where the shoes kept moisture close to the hoof. And shoes can be hard to keep on as the hoof wall is weakened. I think finding a good farrier that has treated this before, and keeping your horses feet dry will help the condition.
Re: horse oriented/domination/imprinting
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I know nothing about foals and imprinting except what a friend of mine went through with her imprinted foal. When it came time to saddle train her horse that she raised from a foal, it launched her time and time again until she became so afraid of it that she eventually sold it. Other than her body, her feelings were hurt from getting bucked off so many times from a horse she thought of as her "friend." I guess when you are breaking a horse you can't expect them to act much differently from how they evolved as a species.
Re: Horse Help
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I wouldn't touch this horse with a "ten foot pole" unless you have his feet x-rayed by a veterinarian. Forget the cost, it's better than having a useless horse that you dump a lot of money into keeping sound. He also could have a chronic fungus type thing called "white line disease" in the hoof wall which can be a major headache to treat. I hope you get him checked out. Good luck!
Re: Pedigree in Show programmes
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Anneli, I tried to email you privately, but it would not go through. I would like to chat with you about the pedigree of your horse. It sounds like we like a similar type of Fjord. Would you please email me. Thank you, Elaine Olsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Clipping Muzzle Hairs
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Susan, I agree with you that when you are showing Fjords in open competitions, you stand out if you do not groom the same. I wrestled with the" to clip/ or not to clip" the feathers on my Fjord competing in dressage until a well known competitor and judge came up to me and said, "Your horse has good legs, let's see them...loose the feathers! I must say, he looks more elegant. And I was told for years by my German instructor that Germans leave on the muzzle hairs because they feel the horse uses them somewhat for orientation and balance, and that they don't trim ear hair. But, I always see muzzle hairs and ear hair trimmed in shows. The one time that I did let it grow, I was constantly catching it in the noseband and yanking out muzzle hairs accidentally which the horse did not like. I guess if you plan to show in open competition the saying fits, "When in Rome."
Re: Clipping Muzzle Hairs
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] My experience with body clipping Fjords in a warmer climate has proven to a necessity. They still grow a fairly thick coat and are miserable as the day time temperatures even in the winter in California can reach the high 70's. I see them breath heavy and they tire quickly when they have their thick coats. I often will clip in Oct. and then again in Jan. They are kept blanketed at night. The difference in their performance and attitude is night and day. It almost seems cruel to let them keep a thick coat in this warm climate.
Re: Midwest Horse Fair in Madison
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Just curious, but what horse had the "huge stride'? Do you know the breeding? As a dressage rider, I am always interested in this type of info.
Re: Sand crack
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] A lot of times sand cracks can be caused by the conformation of the hoof, and/ or the balance of the hoof from trimming, i.e., too much toe out front, etc. I know sometimes that going from wet to dry conditions, like a lot of rain, then dry spells are rough on the hoof condition, too. It is a good idea to have your farrier stop the crack before it travels up the hoof to the hairline where it becomes a much bigger problem and can cause soreness. They usually do this by taking a hot file and burning a line parallel to the ground to stop the vertical crack from going up. It does not hurt the horse at all.
Re: RBent Branderup
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] My German instructor always "reminds" me that compact, muscular horses like my Fjord need extra time to warm up because of their build. It really does feel like a "wall" until the hind end is active and they are loose in the back. I do a lot of supplying exercises with my horse, circles, serpentines, etc.,until he comes lower and softer. Then we can start to work. It is important not to push them in a frame with your hands. They must come through from you legs and seat.
Re: Trimming Ergots
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] My quarter horse always seems to grow large, hard chestnuts. I greased them for a week with hoof oil before trying to peel them off. He was very fussy about this, but I yanked on one hard and half if it came off, but then he really started to bleed and bleed. Oops! I guess there is a blood vessel right under there close to the surface. I think I'll try to let the farrier handle it next time.
Re: Improving the Fjord Horse with X-breeding
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Lynn, a geneticist would probably have to answer your question about why a Fjord doesn't seem to pass on his "good" traits when crossbred. From the amount of first hand accounts that responded on the List, the results of crossbreeding do not seem to create a new and improved horse. I have only seen and heard of a donkey cross and it looked exactly like a Fjord except it had an AWFUL temperament and it's probably in an Alpo can by now. I, personally, am against indiscriminate animal breeding on any kind, horses, dogs, cat, etc. I think a good breeding program takes a dedicated, educated person willing to invest a lot of time and money and CARE into the process, and is best handled by professionals. I recently had a conversation with a former member of the German Olympic Team. We were discussing Dutch Warmbloods. He said,"They are starting to produce some decent horses, but they are so NEW at it, they've only been breeding these horses for about 100 years"
Re: Improving the Fjord Horse with X-breeding
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Anna, exactly what specific traits do you think the Fjord would pass along to other breeds if you did crossbreeding? No offense, but crossing a Fjord with a thoroughbred sounds like a train wreck! Unfortunately, there is more evidence to support the fact that Fjords do not bring along their wonderful temperament, or much else except for some odd coloring to their crosses. I hope you rethink your position. Some crosses might make more sense, but I don't think the Fjord is a good candidate for this type of tinkering.
Re: a question for the list
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I would like to point out that it has probably taken hundreds, if not thousands of years of breeding to create the diverse group of horse breeds we have today. To think we can accomplish much by crossbreeding a couple of times is unrealistic.
Re: His name is Winslow
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I have read in The Chronicle of The Horse Magazine that the Romans fed bran to their horses excessively as it was an available food source and their horses developed very large heads because their bones became malformed from the bran messing up the calcium/phosporus ratio in their bone growth. Apparently, bran contains a lot of phosphorus that affects calcium absorption. I think an occasional bran mash is a good thing after a horse has worked hard because it brings extra water to his gut, but feeding large amounts every day can be harmful according to the articles I have read. Elaine Olsen
Re: His name is Winslow
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I am sure you are going to get a lot of response to the questions you asked about general care for your new horse, and a lot of different ways of doing things. Here are some things that I think are essential to basic horse care. Vaccinations-the programs depends on what part of the country you're in but should include Tetanus, Flu/Rhino(often given 2x a year), Easter/Western. There are many other vaccinations. Good thing to discuss with your vet. Worming-Rotate different paste wormers every 8-12 weeks as instructed. About once a year, I have a fecal check done on my horses. If they are still showing an egg count, my vet will do a tube worming, which is stronger than the paste wormers. Paste wormers can be done by you, the vet tube worms(inserts hose thru nose to stomach to administer medicine)Worming your horse is very important. Feed-A good grass hay seems to be best for Fjords. The 1/2/ to 1 cup of oil a day seems excess for a Fjord. Oil produces energy and this seems like too much. Go easy on the bran mash. It should be a once and a while thing. Too much can leach calcium from their bones, as bran has a high phosphorus content. Trimming-find a very good farrier. After training, this is one of the most important things that can affect your horse physically. Even if you don't put shoes on your horse, he should be trimmed every 8-12 weeks depending on how fast his foot grows and his use. Keeping is foot in good balance is critical for his tendons, etc.
Re: Selling young horses...
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I am responding to the topic of training young horses on your own, or for the first time, and I would like to add that there is a big difference between riding and training. Sometimes a good rider will attempt to train a horse and it can be a disaster because the methods of safe breaking is not something that everyone just knows. It also takes a higher degree of athleticism on the rider's part for the inevitable, bolting, bucking, shying etc.that kind of comes with the turf with youngsters as they get out in the world. If you want to try it on your own, I think it works best with professional supervision. It is rewarding to have a well trained horse with a "clean slate," and it can be worth the effort if you do it right.
Re: equine chiropractors
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Brigid, If you horse is feeling "stiff," you might want to have his hocks checked out. Many horses with sore hocks from arthritic changes will often show it in their backs, polls and jaws as a stiff feeling. A simple flexion test might rule this problem out before you try a chiropractor.
Re: Redraft vs. sport
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Marcy, I think your post was so accurate, sheer size and bulk are not the only factors in determining function. I have one larger Fjord, 14.2, easily over 1000 lbs. with big feet (No. #3 shoes), and just a lot of bulk to him even though he's not fat. But all the other things you describe come into play here, because this large boned, big Fjord is a wonderful mover and very athletic.
Re: Dutch Kuering/ American Fjord?
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Debby, you asked, "Are Fjords the rich man's pony?". I'm sure my answer will be very controversial, but I wish people would realize that ALL horses are expensive to own and care for properly. Fjords seem very reasonably priced for a pure bred animal especially compared to most other breeds. I, for one, hope their prices stay the same or even go up because it might ensure that they can go to homes were people can afford, regular shoeing, training, vaccinations, worming, tack, etc. that are part of good horsemanship. I've seen too many sad cases where a buyer is looking for a cheap horse and then gives them the worse care, scrimping on quality food, and other basics. I know someone that found the cheapest farrier she could find and he trimmed her horse so incorrectly that her Fjord bowed both tendons in his hind legs and will never be the same. My point is, horses and horse care will always be expensive. Lowering the price of Fjords will not help the matter.
Re: BREYER HORSE
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] White socks on a Fjord? Maybe all those crossbreeding discussions should be taken more seriously!
Re: implements of training
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Denise, you could be having some difficulties with your young horse because of teething. Have you ever had his teeth floated? You'd be surprised how sharp the points can be even on a 2 yr. old. In addition, he could have wolf teeth or sharp canines (sp?) which interfere with biting and make the horse pretty miserable. You might want to have this checked before you resort to "stronger" aids.
Re: farrier woes...
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Ingrid, about your bad shoeing experienceI had a similar reaction from my usually, very quiet horse when he got shod, and it was caused by a painful abscess that was not immediately visible on his sole. It must have hurt my horse so badly that the next year of shoeing, he did require some tranquilizing as 4 of us could not hold him. After a year, he has finally regained his confidence and trust and he is wonderful to shoe again. Since your horse's reaction was so violent, it sounds like some pain was involved someplace.
Re: mules and some comments on hybrids
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Kathy, in your post concerning cross breeding you stated that, "in nature, the barriers against crossbreeding are geographic I think this is exactly one of the strongest contributing forces that shaped the Fjord. With the Fjord, I believe you have to give special consideration to it's antiquity and preserve it's ancient beginnings. I know the Arab is an old breed, too, but I'm not sure which goes back further, the Fjord or the Arab. The point is, you are not dealing with a modern day horse like a quarter horse, etc. when it comes to cross breeding, you are custodians of a living piece of history.
Re: Cross Breeding
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sherrie, You made some very good points about why not to crossbreed the Fjord. I had no idea it's been tried so many times! I assume these are people experimenting in their own backyards, but I agree, horses like this will make it to the general public and it could hurt the breed. I know of a case where a donkey "accidentally" bred a Fjord mare and the offspring looked exactly like a Fjord. You'd never know it was crossbreed, except it had an AWFUL temperament.
Re: mules
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Alison, zip up your flame suit because here comes some small flames. Breeding a zebra to another horse is a very bad idea because the horse will be loosing some of his domesticity and could be a dangerous animal to train. You know how hard it is to desensitize a horse from his normal fight or flight response, i.e. bolting, shying, bucking, rearing? Why on earth would you want to introduce a non-domestic animal into a horse population that we have been trying to TAME for 2000yrs? Besides that, I am a big animal lover and I am very against recreational breeding just to "see what we would get." There are many other hobbies that can be fulfilling without creating misbegotten animals that usually have to be euthanized or end up hurting someone. I think if people have this big urge to watch odd animals get together, buy a fish tank and try it there!
Re: mules
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Zebras are wild, undomesticated animals that can be very difficult and dangerous to handle. That's one of the reasons you don't ever see them under saddle, barring a few exceptions for circus acts. To breed them with a domesticated horse with a kind nature, who has been bred for centuries to be tractable, like the Fjord seems like folly and doesn't do the horse or the zebra any good.
Re: Blonken
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] In response to Vivian's comments about low priced Fjords, it does seem to go hand in hand with some sad situations for the horses. When I first started to look for a Fjord, I responded to some ads for Fjords maybe in the $2,000 range and it was so depressing. The horses very,very thin, lame and poorly put together. There was even a brother (stallion)and sister of breeding age together in the same pasture and this didn't seem to bother the owner at all! Fortunately, I had seen nicer Fjords in the past and I knew these weren't very good. It's depressing what people will do to make a buck and very sad for the horses. It's not their fault.
Re: Redford
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sheri, Has Redford been taught to longe? The youngsters that I have had experience with are usually taught to walk, trot and canter with tack, on the line at about a 20 meter circle. Bucking is reprimanded with a sharp tug and the word "no" when the horse is tacked up. The horse must be taught that when the saddle is on, it's time to work. I've always seen the youngsters longed for about 15-20 min. before the rider gets on, and have not experienced any bucking.
Re: winter weather
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Speaking about weather, it was 80 degrees in California, today, with a nice breeze. I rode in a tee-shirt. Where's that cold snap, again?
Re: In hand
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Alison, I have shown one of my Fjords in many open halter classes against ponies and horses with very good success. There is quite a bit involved with having him move properly in halter classes. Is there anyone around that could give you some pointers? Mainly, your horse must be obedient to your aids to trot off, go back to walk and stand square but still show expression. I worked with someone when my horse was young teaching him to trot off immediately without being pulled around. It took the use of a dressage length whip at my side used as a gentle, tapping aid as I gave a voice aid. I worked on this for several weeks at home before I went into a show ring. You never want to look like you are pulling your horse, or that he is trotting ahead of you(you'll get marked down in open shows). His head should be even by your shoulder. And YOU really have to move to show off the trot well, close to running, to get his trot forward. Hopefully, you can find someone near you that can work with you and your horse. Sometimes, the people in 4-H that enter horsemanship classes are good at this type of showing. Elaine Olsen
Re: Tripping
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] In response to the tripping issueThere is a huge difference between my two Fjord geldings and tripping. The one that does trip at both the canter and trot has conformational issues that have been pointed out by both my vet and farrier. They are angle of shoulder, straight pasterns, and neck set. Playing around with the shoeing helped a little but the possibility of a trip is always there. My horse that trips is not drafty in build, but he is from one of the more draft lines. The other gelding from a different lineage, never trips and is one of the more surefooted horses I have ever ridden through any kind of footing. Perhaps, this issue could be made part of the evaluation process because I think tripping and stumbling does exist in quite a number of Fjords and it is a big negative because of the danger of a fall. It is not always evident when the horse is in pasture or on the lounge line. It becomes more evident when the horse is asked to work and the added weight and balance of the rider can affect this type of horse. I know many people have responded that their Fjords have never tripped and I am sure that is true, just as sure as there are many people that have Fjords that trip. I guess it's something that should be checked out prior to a purchase. I wish I was aware of it at the time. Elaine Olsen
Re: Rosendalsborken
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Steve, Your image of Rosendalsborken looks very much like the stallion I saw from Germany last year, "Ohlsen," who by the way was very good at dressage Elaine Olsen
Re: fjordhorse-digest V2000 #8
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Anne, Thanks for your message about the Norway judges. I did misunderstand it and thought the judges just went for a "pretty" horse and did not take the movement into consideration. I haven't received my copy of the Fjord Herald, yet, but I look forward to reading your article. Elaine Olsen
Re: Rosendalsborken, Fjord type, movement
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Julie, your post was really informative. In fact, I want to thank everyone that has engaged in this discussion of type and movement because it is so educational. Without belaboring this point, I am still curious to see why a discussion of dressage with the Fjord automatically makes it seem like we would somehow have to change the breed standard to achieve this. When I was looking for a new Fjord, I spoke with the Fjord Association in Germany to get the names of breeders that might have dressage prospects.(Steffen Peters suggested this to me, a member of our last Olympic Dressage Team). The German Assoc. gave me several names right away. He didn't say, "oh, that's not to Standard," or "are you crazy?" In fact, the breeder's brochure showed photos and boasted of their stallion's many wins in the dressage ring. To me dressage is not exaggerated movement. That's more like a gaited Saddlebred, Hackney or an Icelandic in a tolt. Dressage movement to me is free flowing, long strides, relaxed and forward, something I think the Fjord can truly do. Thanks again and good luck with your horses in whatever you do. Elaine Olsen
Re: Agree/Disagree - BDF IDAR - 1 of top 5
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Doesn't the Fjord Standard call for versatility? Doesn't that include that they are nice under saddle, too? If you have been shopping for fjords lately as I and many of my friends have, you might be appalled how some of them move so inadequately that you want to get off for safety reasons. We are not talking about creating Grand Prix Fjords, but how about ones that have THREE normal, good gaits and can carry a rider with balance. I can't imagine that the Vikings rode around on horses that didn't canter very well
Re: Fjords and Dressage
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Paula, I think you have brought up some very interesting points. I too, am relatively new to Fjords (5 years) and I have both "types" of Fjords. Oddly, the one that is heavier in body mass and bone and shear bulk, is the one that I have started to compete in dressage. My other one, the first Fjord I purchased has an outstanding face and appeal, but struggles with his canter and has been a stumbler from day one. I had my neck "whiplashed" by his stumbles more times than I wish to count. Shoeing, vetting, training, did not really change this. Recently, I was looking a a Norwegian magazine that had featured the top Norwegian Studs and was amazed how big and beautiful their gaits looked. I was especially taken with a stallion, Buggedals Foss whose grandfather was Rei Halsnaes. The Norwegian breeders that were there went on to tell me how great Rei Halsnaes was and sired many great moving Fjords. I assume this is definitely to the Fjord Standard or they wouldn't be in the stud book. Maybe some of the breeding of late has strayed from the standard. I think the Fjord still needs to be functional and safe to ride, but unfortunately quite a few that I have ridden are almost scary to canter because you feel they are going to wipe out.
Re: Flash v/s Function
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Anne, Since we are on this topic of type, your story from Norway left me a little confused. It sounds like the judges where just going for looks and the pretty face instead of function. I'd take a real homely, nice mover over a gorgeous looking, average one. What's that old saying, "beauty is as beauty does"...or something like that. But maybe I am brainwashed by years of working with warmbloods! Elaine Olsen
Re: Agree/Disagree - BDF IDAR - 1 of top 5
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I think if I was a breeder of Fjords for more than just my own personal use, I would take in to consideration how the majority of the Fjords are most used. I think there is a tremendous market for riding type Fjords. Every time I go to a show with mine, I am besieged with the question, 'where do I buy one." And I don''t think the riding types have to be finer boned, lighter weight, etc. It's more how all the parts work together and where the neck comes out of the body and the natural gaits. I'm not a breeder, just a rider, so I probably can't articulate it well enough, but just because a horse makes a great riding horse, I shouldn't think it would make him inept at draft. Elaine Olsen
Re: Agree/Disagree - BDF IDAR - 1 of top 5
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jean, Without crossing the Fjord with any other breed, isn't there still room for improvement within the breed, and staying within the breed standards, for a horse with greater rideability and better gaits? I saw a video once from a breeder of Fjords in Germany who owns the top stallion "Olhsen" (no relation to me) and his young children where riding these Fjords around and they were so balanced, and beautiful movers, light and soft. I not suggesting breeding Fjords for a specific use in dressage, just to make them better to ride, period. I don't know if the average Fjord breeder cares about that, maybe they do. I think that a Fjord that is heavy on his forehand, stumbles a lot, and labors at his canter, isn't really fun to ride. Of course, this is my own opinion. Elaine Olsen
Re: Agree/Disagree - BDF IDAR - 1 of top 5
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I wanted to reply to some of Carol's statements about Fjords and dressageI own an upper level, FEI Dutch Warmblood that won the North American Championships several years ago with another owner, and I own BDF Idar. I too, believe that Fjords can compete and win in dressage, and I think some have just the right equipment to make wonderful dressage horses up the levels. They are strong, smart, willing partners, generally with wonderful, workman attitudes. I do think there is a big difference in their abilities based on their confirmation, movement and suspension. The dressage training is coming easier to my Fjord, Idar, than it has to many warmbloods that I have had. Idar has big, strong hindquarters and it enables to have a very light canter with a lot of jump. His neck carriage is more uphill and getting him on the bit is very easy. As everyone knows, warmbloods have been bred carefully for years for use in this sport. Couldn't a similar thing happen to improve the athleticism and rideability of the Fjord in the US? Not only would this make the Fjord a good dressage horse, it would make him a better riding horse for any type of riding. A small correction from Carol's statements about Idar. He has only been shown one show season, and he placed Sixth in the United States Dressage Federation Regional Championships. Elaine Olsen
Kissing
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] While we are on the subject of kissing, here's something you might want to avoid I had one of my horses at a training barn for a while ( a warmblood), and when he came back, I noticed a quarter-sized scaly patch on his forehead. I washed it and picked at it, but it only seemed to get a little bigger. Then one morning I woke up with an intense red, circular mark on my neck that itched like crazy. And I noticed that my poor dog had the same thing on her nose! Well, it turned out to be RINGWORM. All three of us were treated with the same medicine! I still kiss and snuggle up to all my animals, but I keep my eye out for anything scaly!!!
Re: driving v. riding
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Has anyone actually bailed out of a cart when the horse has become a runaway? Since I am new to driving, I wondered if this is an option if there seems to be no stopping your horse and he's headed for a lake, cliff, tree, etc.
Driving
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Concerning the discussion of driving and safety, I wanted to relate the experience I am having with my 7 yr. old Fjord gelding. I sent him to a good trainer about 3 months ago. He was a horse that had been ridden and did know how to longe, but had never even seen a cart. For the last 3 months the trainer worked on desensitizing him to "stuff" rattling on and around him while he was ground driven. Slowly, she used PVC plastic poles as shafts for him and ground drove him all over her neighborhood making quite a racket as they got drug over the ground. Next came wooden shafts, and he, again, was ground driven all around with these dragging and making more noise. While doing this, she worked on his turns, pivots,etc, and general obedience. It's been 3 1/2 months in to the training and he was hitched to the cart for the first time last week. It went great and he has been going out each day without incident. The trainer stresses always keeping good contact with his mouth, as she feels Fjords are very quick and can be bolters. At 7 yrs old., my horse managed the new training, but good training and preparation seem to be the key. He'll be driven around for at least a month before I try driving him(a new and novice driver)on the streets. I am assuming most training for driving happens at this pace, and I can sure see the importance of going at it slowly. Elaine Olsen
Re: Saddles
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I have been reading the posts about saddle fit and I can relate to what everyone goes through trying to fit their horse because I spent a lot of time trying a lot of different saddles. I think some Fjords are quite a challenge. I have a wide horse and he trains and competes in dressage. With the amount of sitting trot work that is done, it is imperative that he is comfortable and that the saddle does not jam the top of his shoulders or restrict his movement in any way. The only advice I can give, is get good help with your saddle fit. Some tack stores have people that know what to look for and they need to see the saddle on the horse. Friends of mine have driven their horse to the parking lot of tack stores in downtown Los Angeles to get this checked! And for the rider that rode bareback first...I think it will feel weird at first in whatever saddle you try, if you ride bareback. It can be actually be harder to ride in a saddle. Once you decide what you want to ride, English or Western, get the help and ride in the saddle more than once. Some stores let you have a 30 day tryout. I ended up with a custom Passier dressage saddle and he feels like a new horse! Regards, Elaine Olsen
Re: BDF KANADA KING (GJEST X STINE)
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I thought it was interesting that at our recent Dressage Championships in Ca., it was announced for every horse at all levels as they entered the arena; the horse's name, his age, breed and his sire and dam! Lineage does matter. Elaine Olsen
Re:
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I am originally from Vermont and I would like to hear more about what it is like to show dressage there now. I have an FEI Level Dutch Warmblood and a First Level Norwegian Fjord. Could you Email me so that we could chat about it? Thanks, Elaine Olsen ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
Re: Cantering
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Adding to what has said about waiting to ride horses...I recently read that the plates in a horse's spine are not fully developed (or closed) until almost 6 year's of age, so getting on their backs at 2 yrs. doesn't seem like a sound idea.
Re: Cantering
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I think tripping at the trot and difficulty cantering go hand in hand with some Fjords. I attribute it to conformation issues, and the type of mover you have, although I am sure some would argue that point. I think you have to have someone knowledgeable evaluate your horse as a riding prospect and if you decide to use him that way, be prepared for extra work in keeping him balanced and off his forehand as he becomes trained. One of my Fjords is like this and it can get better, but it is always an issue and he has had some bad trips that real jerk the rider's neck, so be careful! Elaine Olsen
Re: Dressage Championships in Ontario
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Renee, It was so interesting to read your post about your success in dressage with your Fjords. I would like to hear more about it and about your horses. Could you please Email me at my address: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thank you. Elaine Olsen
Dressage Championships
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] For anyone on the List that is interested in dressage competitions, I thought I would share with you some pretty exciting news. This year I have been showing a gelding, BDF Idar, that I purchased from Beaver Dam Farm last year. This horse was primarily a driving horse and his exposure to any type of dressage training was new to him. When I first got him, I couldn't work him hard for almost 6 months because he got a bad pneumonia shipping from Nova Scotia to CA. Once he was healthy, we began working on fundamental dressage, and I am proud to say that in less than a year, this horse has come home from the United States Dressage Federation Regional Championships Show where he placed 6th in the Training Level Division against a fabulous field of the top dressage horses in this region. Realistically, it is hard to place at a show of this caliber with ANY horse, so the fact that I was riding a Fjord made it even more special. After a well-deserved "break" of a few weeks from training (any longer than this and he gets bored), Idar will begin preparing for his next show at First Level. So if anyone else has a Fjord with very good gaits and a good attitude, get them out to the dressage arena! Regards, Elaine Olsen
Re: Trace clipping
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Martie, I compete my Fjord a lot in dressage and to me, it is imperative that they are clipped otherwise they suffer by overheating. I live in a warm climate(CA) and I often do a full body clip twice a year. I clipped my competition horse at least a week before the show because even clipping a horse can create some stress because of the difference in body cooling. I clipped him in Oct. and I am sure he will need it again in January. I think Fjords look beautiful with a full body clip...just like a summer coat. And I do sheet or blanket him when his clipped. So clip away! Elaine Olsen
Re: Thrush
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jean, You might be killing the fleas in your dog house, but you might be hurting your dog, too. The fumes from Clorox can burn lungs, eyes and skin. If I use it in my laundry and there is an animal or bird,( which are very sensitive to chemicals) in the room, I open the window for ventilation. I've heard my dog sneezing from Clorox even in it's diluted in the washing machine. I'm not trying to criticize, but as an animal lover, thought I'd mention it. Elaine Olsen
Re: Ivermectin
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] That's a good thought...I have only seen it used a few times. Maybe because it was used only once every eight weeks or so the horse did not associate it with being bridled.
Re: Ivermectin
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] For horses that are REALLY tough to worm, there is a hollow bit device that can be used to give medicines. I've seen it in use and it is pretty neat. You put this special device on a headstall, pop it in their mouth like a normal bit, and then apply the medicine in a side of the bit and it goes directly into their mouth and down the hatch. I've seen it advertised in several Vet Supply type catalogs. Elaine Olsen
Re: Zeno 2
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Congratulations on your new Fjord,"Zeno." I was curious what his gaits are like since he comes from such a good stallion. Have you seen him trotting and cantering, yet? Curious in California, Elaine Olsen
Re: Libby show '99
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Any chance of a Fjord Flag being available for sale? I know they sell a lot of different horse flags. It sure would look great at the entrance of my barn. Elaine Olsen
Re: Libby
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Shirley, For those of us that did not make the Libby Horse Show, it will be great to hear all about it and perhaps, get some class results. Elaine Olsen
Re: crop...leg aids
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Marsha, To reply to your post about bits used on Fjords... I just wanted to add that it depends on what type of riding you will be doing with your Fjord. I think for pleasure riding, anything that works well for both horse and rider is OK, but it you compete in any kind of discipline, there are bits that are considered "legal" and can be used and some that are not allowed in the ring. For instance, if I showed up at a dressage competition at the lower levels with anything other than some kind of snaffle, I would not be allowed in the ring. There are ring stewarts that often check bits and the metal they are made of. I know this holds true for other disciplines, too. The AHSA handbook outlines what tack and bits are allowable. A lot of people will switch back and forth between bits, too, maybe schooling in a snaffle and switching to something else for trail. This really seems to help keep a horse "listening." Elaine
Re: Introducing me
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Mary Anne, I am responding to your post because the way you described some of the training with your Fjord caused concern. Are you riding him in field with his buddies that are loose? If you are, I would stop immediately because it is an accident waiting to happen. What happens if they decide to get playful and start to run and you are in there with them? Most training of young horses takes place in an arena or pen, and it does often help to have another horse and rider (under saddle) in there with a green horse while you are riding. Most horses are green to me until they have been under saddle at least a full year. The pokiness that you experience is that they horse is not fully trained to respond to your legs, yet. It takes many months of repetitive, consistent training where you give the aid with your legs and if he doesn't respond right away, a quick tap-tap with a dressage whip(which is used in a position to re-enforce your leg aid) or blunt spur. This does not mean you hit him with the whip, it is an aid like someone tapping you on the shoulder. If you get no response you can do it a little stronger. Also, he can be pokey because he is not strong enough yet to carry your weight, balance himself and go forward, and this type of thing can take months to develop. Hopefully, you have a good trainer in your area that can help you out. Elaine
Re: Melanomas in Fjords
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] On my horse, the melanoma is a smooth, firm, black(like their skin) lump that protrudes about 1/2" out of his hair. I have not had this horse that long, so I don't know how it looked when it first started. The one on his ear is about the size of a pea and it looks the same. Elaine
Re: melanomas in fjords
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I also have a Fjord with a melanoma on his chest that will be surgically removed after the show season. It is about the diameter of a quarter and the vet says it is just in the skin, not growing into the muscle. He seems to have a smaller one on his ear that we will not remove. I've been told by several people that they can grow back after they are removed, too. I don't know if this is common in the breed. Elaine Olsen
Re: I'm shopping...
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Do you ride English or Western? If you want to Email me, I can give you some titles. [EMAIL PROTECTED] Elaine Olsen
Re: I'm shopping...
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sounds like your horse is not trained to listen to either leg or seat aids, and as a last resort, you have to use only your hands. This is a long process that would take a knowledgeable trainer with a lot of patience. Usually, a young horse learns the leg and seat aids in the beginning of his training so that he stays light in his mouth, responsive, and obedient. You might want to get some good training books so that you understand the problem, and then find a suitable trainer to help you through it. By the way, spurs and crops will not work here because your horse has no idea of what you're asking for. Elaine Olsen
Re: I'm Shopping
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] In response to your tack questions...I assume it is a Fjord that you are outfitting. First, get some help with the saddle fit, because Fjords can be tricky to fit with their wide bodies. A correct fitting saddle is THE most important thing, along with the correct fitting bit and bridle. Sounds like you will want an all purpose or jumping saddle for the kind of work that you do. They usually take white pads that conform to the shape of the saddle, so it important to get the saddle first. The black saddle pad is not one that I see for jumping saddles but can be used for dressage and it is square. It is never a good idea to mix black and brown tack, and it would be frowned upon at any competition or rally. Fjords look good in either color as long as it fits properly, it matches, and it is kept clean. Good luck, Elaine Olsen
Re: thin soles, x-rays @ evaluations
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I've had four pre-purchase exams on four different Fjords in the last two years that included routine x-rays of the front feet, ankles and hocks. All of those Fjords, from different parts of the country(one imported from Holland), showed less than 1/4 inch of sole, I believe, on the films. It was mentioned by several of the vets that looked at the x-rays. If the horses were in wet weather, the sole became quite spongy, and you could push it in easily with your fingers.(I mean it had give, not that I could punch a hole in it). Where it became a factor was that my young horse could not go barefoot when he started work because he was too "ouchy" on trail until he was shod. It also became critical that the farrier did not carve out anything from the sole because the horses would get sore and sometimes show lameness. I think some of the farriers in Ca. try to take out too much sole, but now I have one that doesn't. I don't know if many Fjords are like this, but all of mine are pretty thin in the sole area. I have them all on a biotin supplement and I insist that they are not trimmed too short, and left with plenty of foot. This seems to work. Elaine Olsen
Re: Glued-on Horseshoes and Woodstock Anyone?
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Susan, I am commenting on your abscess problem because it happened to me twice when my Fjords were trimmed too short, or had too much sole removed. I have had Fjords of different lines and they all seem to show that they do not have much sole in their foot(by radiographs). Has anyone else noticed this, too? If too much sole gets removed it can making bruising and abscesses more common. Now that I have switched farriers and insist that they do not carve out the bottom of the foot, or trim too short, I haven't had another abscess. Elaine Olsen
Re: sire & dam, breeder on show programs
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Putting breeding information in programs is routinely done at all larger dressage competitions and especially at championship shows. Everyone seems to read this information and it helps people be knowledgeable when they are looking to buy. Elaine Olsen
Re: responding to a post
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Being new to computers, I have question when responding to a post. I have AOL and if I push the Reply command does it print the prior message and mine, too? Or, should I erase the person's message and type mine in it's place? Elaine Olsen
Re: Insurance for Fjords
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Susan, I think there are many good insurance companies out there now, and I believe that the AHSA has horse insurance now, too. They would be very reputable and competitive with their pricing. I have used a company called Ziplow for over 10 years and I have had no problems.(800-822-2202). It is always a tough decision whether or not to spend money on insurance. I had a friend that spent over 50K on a horse, did not insure it, and it died within a week. She is still paying on the loan for the horse. I live in an urban area where my horses are always trailered on the freeways, and are left at different show grounds, etc. I feel that they are at a little more risk than if I lived in the country. The most useful thing about insurance is the major medical coverage, that you have to ask for in addition to mortality. It has a $250 deductible, but it covers anything that is not routine maintenance. We all know how fast vet bills can get over $250, so it can come in handy. You should be able to get rates of 3% if you are not using the horse for any thing other than pleasure or dressage. So for a horse insured for $4000, let say, you should have to pay $120, plus and additional $150-250 for major medical a year. Hope this gives you some information. Elaine Olsen
Re: Insurance for Fjords
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I have my Fjords insured, and my other horses, too. They do a lot of traveling. Insurance is based on the purchase price of the horse. You can raise the amount of your coverage, but often have to substantiate it when you get in the higher amounts. In other words, someone just can't say, this filly is worth $100, 000. without proving it somehow. I am requested to submit show records every year to show that I do use the horse for dressage (a lower rate than jumping). Most insurance companies have you pay a premium based on 3-5% of your insured value per year. I would strongly recommend adding major medical coverage to the policy for an extra $150-250. If you don't know the market value of your horse, I'm sure the insurance company can help you with that. It only gets tricky when you start getting horses valued over $25,000. Then, you have to submit a vet check every year with your application. Unfortunately, I had to use my insurance policy when I lost a horse to colic. The bills were over $5000 (surgery involved) and they paid for everything, including what I paid for the horse. Elaine Olsen
Re: In defense of Morgans
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I am originally from Vermont, the home of the Morgan horse. I had an old style Lippitt Morgan that was steadfast and wonderful. He reminded me of the Fjord in strength and temperament. However, I don't recognize most of today's Morgans. The "refinement" that was bred in these horses, to me, destroyed a lot that was good. I would hate to see these happen to the Fjord by crossing them with any other blood. Elaine Olsen
Re: fjordhorse-digest V99 #117
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Gayle, Sorry, I must have misunderstood Debbie Nevelski's email to me. I have an interest in Roza because I sold her Debbie and thought she was a wonderful young horse. And, I used the wrong address to email Carol. I didn't mean to message the List. I hope all goes well for whomever Roza gets as a "husband"! Elaine Olsen
Re: Geldings for Sale from BDF
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Carol, This sounds like a wonderful group of horses. Wish I had more time!! I heard again from Debbie Nevelski and she said Roza was not pregnant at this time. She decided to take Roza to Oregon and leave her there with Kanada King until she becomes pregnant. I'm glad she changed her mind because from what you told me, King is spectacular and a great mover. All is well here. Idar is moving great. He felt like a third level horse today, all collected and light in the front, and going very forward. His next show is August 7, an overnight trip near San Diego at a large facility where I've never been before... always an adventure. Best, Elaine
Re: Fjord hybrids
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Commenting on the Fjord-Zebra cross...no offense but it sounds horrible.
Re: Tack questions
This message is from: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tami, If you want to Email me with any tack, saddle questions, I would be happy to help you out. I have and compete both warmbloods and Fjords. This year, I have been showing a Fjord that is quite wide and finally ended up having a custom saddle made from tracings off his back,a pretty standard thing to do for dressage saddles where fit is critical. Elaine Olsen ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
