Re: [h-cost] Costume events/groups in Sacramento
Not yet, although I need to visit the county historical society anyway. The local building permit and other records offices dumped all their pre-1980 records on the historical society and we want to get hold of our house plans. I understand that it works for some others, but I absolutely refuse to volunteer. I've spent decades dealing with people who don't want to pay me for my professional work and I'm not going to go there any more. I'm just looking for social organizations. Thanks, Fran www.lavoltapress.com On 6/8/2017 5:02 AM, Susan Data-Samak wrote: Fran, Congrats on your new home with all the trimmings. Have you checked the local historical society for historic homes/museums? About 15 years ago, I attended an open house at a local historic house/museum. Of all the beautiful artifacts, I stumbled on a dress form wearing a paper dress. Upon inspection, it was actually a life sized “invitation” to join a group of women who acted as living props for the museum’s open houses. I inquired and as a result, the sewing, socializing and modeling are still a part of my life. The ladies are so helpful and supportive of any/all sewing projects, historically based or not. Susan NJ On Jun 7, 2017, at 10:54 PM, Lavolta Press wrote: My husband and I bought a huge, lovely old Colonial Revival house in Sacramento. We've been doing a lot of remodeling, and sometimes I think it will never end. Currently we're simultaneously working on remodeling a half-bath, extending the irrigation (the plot is 1.8 landscaped acres), and putting up some exterior Arts & Crafts lighting. Among many smaller projects. I have been reorganizing all my sewing stuff, which considering there are few things I hate more than tidying, is quite painful. But! Someday we will be done. I've been looking around on the net. As far as I can tell very little is going on here in terms of costuming, historic reenactment, etc. That's hard to believe, considering Sacramento is a reasonably large and sophisticated city. I'm sure I'm missing something. There must be local groups who don't have much of an Internet presence. Can anyone who lives in this area tell me more? Au rest, if anyone is thinking of moving out of the SF Bay Area, Sacramento has much less expensive housing. Pricewise, our house here was pretty much a direct trade for what we were paid for an undistinguished 2-bedroom, 1-bathroom house in the Sunset district of San Francisco, complete with ancient galvanized plumbing and gravity furnace. This area has mature trees everywhere--all the streets, everybody's lawns, shopping malls, you name it. It's really lovely. We love the climate (no more fog!), and there's almost no traffic (compared to SF). You can get almost anywhere, including the suburbs, in 10-30 minutes. It's just great. So, if anyone has any information on what to do here I'd be grateful. Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Costume events/groups in Sacramento
My husband and I bought a huge, lovely old Colonial Revival house in Sacramento. We've been doing a lot of remodeling, and sometimes I think it will never end. Currently we're simultaneously working on remodeling a half-bath, extending the irrigation (the plot is 1.8 landscaped acres), and putting up some exterior Arts & Crafts lighting. Among many smaller projects. I have been reorganizing all my sewing stuff, which considering there are few things I hate more than tidying, is quite painful. But! Someday we will be done. I've been looking around on the net. As far as I can tell very little is going on here in terms of costuming, historic reenactment, etc. That's hard to believe, considering Sacramento is a reasonably large and sophisticated city. I'm sure I'm missing something. There must be local groups who don't have much of an Internet presence. Can anyone who lives in this area tell me more? Au rest, if anyone is thinking of moving out of the SF Bay Area, Sacramento has much less expensive housing. Pricewise, our house here was pretty much a direct trade for what we were paid for an undistinguished 2-bedroom, 1-bathroom house in the Sunset district of San Francisco, complete with ancient galvanized plumbing and gravity furnace. This area has mature trees everywhere--all the streets, everybody's lawns, shopping malls, you name it. It's really lovely. We love the climate (no more fog!), and there's almost no traffic (compared to SF). You can get almost anywhere, including the suburbs, in 10-30 minutes. It's just great. So, if anyone has any information on what to do here I'd be grateful. Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Victorian button boots
I have already asked, she says sizes under 6 just don't sell well enough. Fran On 8/30/2016 3:30 PM, Sharon Collier wrote: Try asking Lauren (owner American Duchess) if she can make you a smaller pair. There might be others who'd like smaller sizes. -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Lavolta Press Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2016 3:21 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Victorian button boots I had a nice pair of Victorian repro button boots with scallops. They looked very authentic. I need to replace them. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement? American Duchess won't work for me. There are a number of their shoes I would buy if they made smaller than a size 6, but I wear 5 or 5 1/2. Thanks. Fran Lavolta Press Books on historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Victorian button boots
I had a nice pair of Victorian repro button boots with scallops. They looked very authentic. I need to replace them. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement? American Duchess won't work for me. There are a number of their shoes I would buy if they made smaller than a size 6, but I wear 5 or 5 1/2. Thanks. Fran Lavolta Press Books on historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Question for 1920s reenactors
They're absolutely real, but all my dance books are packed for moving. For the 1920s they are old fashioned, 1890s is more like it. But Henry Ford was into promoting old-fashioned dances. Fran Lavolta Press Books on historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com On 8/4/2016 10:10 AM, ruthan...@mindspring.com wrote: Hello the list, after so long… Doing a play (“Camping with Henry and Tom”) where the character Henry Ford refers to two dances: The Ripple and The Newport. A quick Google doesn’t yiield anything. Did the playwright just make up these dance names, or were they real dances around 1920? I’d very much like to hear from any reenactor who has danced one or both, or even heard of one or both. Any help appreciated! —Ruth Anne Baumgartner On Jun 9, 2016, at 11:14 PM, Christine Robb wrote: (Retrying - originally sent May 30 but it failed to be delivered) Best website with a couple of pictures: http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/kitchener-waterloo/guelph-museum-lady-duff-gordon-lucile-1.3566150 Heard about this exhibit on the radio today. There's a longer call-in radio show here: http://www.cbc.ca/ontariotoday/episodes/ "For the love of Lucille" with people calling in to share stories about clothing that was personal to them in some way, and with some additional content about the exhibition, but the 5 minute clip on the first link is probably more informative about the exhibit. Runs May 7 - November 13, 2016 http://guelphmuseums.ca/event/lucile-fashion-titanic-scandal/ Christine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Question for 1920s reenactors
The Newport and the Ripple are not the same dance. Try Melvin Ballou
Gilbert's 1890s dance manual "Round Dancing" for instructions.
Fran
On 8/4/2016 10:27 AM, Katy Bishop wrote:
In vintage dance circles we've done the Newport and the Ripple--they are
real 1890s dance steps.
The NEwport (sort of a limping step:
NewportLeap back left, across LOD (gents) with a quarter
turn, Side right and close, Side right and Close, Leap forward right
(gents) with a quarter turn, Side left and close, Side left close..i.e.:
{1&2&3,4&5&6}.
Don't remember the ripple sequence of steps.
On Thu, Aug 4, 2016 at 1:10 PM, ruthan...@mindspring.com <
ruthan...@mindspring.com> wrote:
Hello the list, after so long…
Doing a play (“Camping with Henry and Tom”) where the character Henry Ford
refers to two dances: The Ripple and The Newport. A quick Google doesn’t
yiield anything. Did the playwright just make up these dance names, or were
they real dances around 1920? I’d very much like to hear from any reenactor
who has danced one or both, or even heard of one or both.
Any help appreciated!
—Ruth Anne Baumgartner
On Jun 9, 2016, at 11:14 PM, Christine Robb
wrote:
(Retrying - originally sent May 30 but it failed to be delivered)
Best website with a couple of pictures:
http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/kitchener-waterloo/guelph-
museum-lady-duff-gordon-lucile-1.3566150
Heard about this exhibit on the radio today. There's a longer call-in
radio show here: http://www.cbc.ca/ontariotoday/episodes/ "For the
love of Lucille" with people calling in to share stories about
clothing that was personal to them in some way, and with some
additional content about the exhibition, but the 5 minute clip on the
first link is probably more informative about the exhibit.
Runs May 7 - November 13, 2016
http://guelphmuseums.ca/event/lucile-fashion-titanic-scandal/
Christine
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[h-cost] Drafting/drawing table for sale
Bieffe brand table for drafting sewing patterns or drawing fashion illustrations. The top is 60 inches wide by 38 inches tall. It can be tilted to a variety of positions, and the chosen position locked by a foot brace. The base is very sturdy. The table is in very good condition. $50 cash. The table is in San Francisco and the buyer needs to pick it up. It can be disassembled. Here is a link to a description of smaller models of the same table: http://www.jerrysartarama.com/bieffe-artist-drafting-tables Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Floor loom for sale
Similar to this: http://www.gilmorelooms.com/MapleFloor.html 46" size, 8 harnesses, jack loom. Great condition. No bench included. I think I have a warping board around that I can include, if I can find it. Various reeds. Located in San Francisco and I will not try to ship it or deliver it. The buyer needs to find a truck and helpers and take it to their own home or studio. The back beam can be removed for transport. $500. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Large jewelry box with large compartments
I'm still packing my stuff to move to Sacramento. I have a fair amount of steampunk and historic-inspired costume jewelry that's just big. Large necklaces. Chunky cuff bracelets. Tiaras. It's been lying around on top of things because I didn't have any jewelry box big enough for it all. I'd like a nice box, not the kind of plastic bin people use for sewing supplies. (Artbin, anyone?) Preferably wooden, but leather would do. And I'm not finding one. I've always thought the Reed & Barton jewelry boxes (bought on Ebay) were the best quality for the money, but half their drawers have small, fixed compartments for things like little pendants, which this stuff won't fit into. I need a big box with big compartments and deep drawers. Any suggestions? Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Craftsman decorating
The furniture mass-produced by Stickley and his imitators was extremely popular, as were all those prefab bungalow houses from Sears, etc., and the premade room dividers and other built-ins you could buy to put in them. Thanks but I forgot to say, clear glasses. Best, Fran On 3/24/2016 4:56 PM, Sharon Collier wrote: The arts and crafts movement shunned mass produced items. So, how about something like this: http://www.worldmarket.com/product/carats+barware.do?&from=fn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Craftsman decorating
Following on the lace curtain discussion, any suggestions for Craftsman/Arts & Crafts glasses, for iced tea and lemonade? About 14 ounces? My husband and I are drinking lemonade every day now that we have a Meyer lemon tree, which fruits pretty much continuously all year. Meanwhile, we only had four, nonmatching glasses from different sets of ours and our respective parents', and one of those just broke. Does anyone know of any glasses that look Arts & Crafts? Thanks for any help. Fran Lavolta Press Books on historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Another historic-house lace curtain source
http://www.cottagelace.com/ Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Curtains for old houses
Thanks. It had better be. We've been working on it for almost 7 months already. Fran On 2/27/2016 11:46 AM, Sharon Collier wrote: Your home is going to be lovely! Sharon -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Lavolta Press Sent: Saturday, February 27, 2016 11:35 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Curtains for old houses We saw the Hoot Judkins, but the quality is not as good as Barn Furniture and Amish Direct. Both the latter places will cut deals. About 10-15% off and free shipping is the range. Fran On 2/27/2016 11:09 AM, Sharon Collier wrote: Good to know. I've seen Amish made furniture at the local Hoot Judkins. It's lovely, but as you say, very pricey. Good luck with the hunt. Sharon ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Curtains for old houses
We saw the Hoot Judkins, but the quality is not as good as Barn Furniture and Amish Direct. Both the latter places will cut deals. About 10-15% off and free shipping is the range. Fran On 2/27/2016 11:09 AM, Sharon Collier wrote: Good to know. I've seen Amish made furniture at the local Hoot Judkins. It's lovely, but as you say, very pricey. Good luck with the hunt. Sharon ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Curtains for old houses--a fabric
BTW, I wanted curtain fabric by the yard because this house has six basic sizes of windows, plus a few outliers, and the architect had no problem with putting two or three sizes, shapes, and placements of windows in one room. I ended up buying lace drapes from all four of the historic lace drape sellers I mentioned, plus a heap of unused Quaker lace drapes from eBay. But, back when I was searching for an all-natural fabric that would give me a uniform look on the sheer drapes, I bought some of this from the Etsy seller FabricTreasury: https://www.etsy.com/listing/123909862/sheer-cotton-curtain-fabric-unbleached?ref=shop_home_feat_2 This is a very thin, good-quality, 100% cotton muslin suitable for a variety of historic dresses. The seller has several other woven patterns of it and as she points out, it can be dyed. I tested shrinkage and it shrinks a lot, so thorough preshrinking is essential. It's the kind of fabric you could pull through a wedding ring and it will be a pain to sew. I decided on hand sewing as being overall less trouble than machine sewing over tissue paper. Then decided not to use this fabric right now because I already have to sew all the outer drapes; the seller took all their window coverings. Maybe I'll use it for sheer drape replacements. Anyway it's nice fabric at a good price. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Curtains for old houses
We're not looking for used furniture (unless you know someone with some great antiques). We'll just get the patio furniture we want to begin with, and buy it in Sacramento or by mail order and have it delivered. It's true Sacramento summers are so hot people seem to spend a lot of time outdoors, but we won't move for weeks. We're still waiting for the Amish indoor furniture we had made to be delivered. We ordered from two distributors and they both take 12-14 weeks from the order date to deliver. BTW, Amish-built furniture is the way to go if you want new Arts & Crafts furniture. We bought a lot of great Arts & Crafts and Art Nouveau antique furniture in the 1980s. But we needed more for a larger house, and discovered that Arts & Crafts is out of style these days. Hardly any local antique stores have it. These are the distributors we bought from: http://www.barnfurnituremart.com/ http://amishdirectfurniture.com/ We haven't seen any of our furniture yet, but Barn Furniture Mart is in LA. My husband flew down there to look at the display furniture in the store and was very impressed with their quality. All the Amish outdoor furniture, though, is rough, rustic picnic tables and that sort of thing. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 2/26/2016 9:44 PM, Sharon Collier wrote: Around here, we have an email group called Next Door. There may be one in your area. Also, have you checked Craigslist? If you want, I can put out a request for aluminum patio furniture. (I'm in Redwood City, have friends who live in Sacramento.) Also, IKEA has some metal furniture that you might find acceptable. Table and 2 chairs for$99. A stand-in, maybe until you find the stuff you really like. Sharon C. -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Lavolta Press Sent: Friday, February 26, 2016 7:59 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Curtains for old houses Looking for lace curtains for our Sacramento house (which we are decorating in Arts & Crafts style) has been a pain in the tail because lace curtains are very much out of style. I was unable to find any cotton lace drapery fabric with an overall, antique-looking pattern. And very little lace fabric at all, just sheers with modern patterns that scream synthetic. However, I've found a number of pricey but authentic-looking sources for old-house curtains: * J. R. Burrows, as previously suggested on this list http://www.burrows.com/lace.html * Olde Worlde Lace http://www.oldeworldelace.com/ * London Lace http://www.londonlace.com/ * Albert Rackstand Lace on Etsy https://www.etsy.com/shop/AlbertRackstandLace?section_id=16135864&ref=shopse ction_leftnav_9 In addition I recommend trolling eBay and Etsy for: * Quaker Lace curtains. A hugely popular 20th-century brand, so you can still find 100% or at least 75% cotton lace curtains for sale in their original packages. * Quaker Lace tablecloths. Denser laces but usable, and often available for low prices. Try and stay away from the thicker ones made in the 1960s. * Knotted lace tablecloths. Also known as darned net, lacis, and sellers may even call it crochet or bobbin lace or still other terms. Whatever: These are 100% natural fiber, sturdy, and very handsome. They probably date from the 1940s, give or take some years. Patterns can be either geometric or flowing. I don't like the geometric ones as much, but it's easier to find matching tablecloths in the geometric patterns. The difficulty is finding two tablecloths with the same pattern and especially, in *exactly the same shade of white or off-white*. But for rooms with single windows, the tablecloth solution can be a handsome and economical way to go. For non-lace fabric, I recommend Restoration Fabrics and Trims: * http://www.restorationfabricsandtrims.com/store.html#ecwid:category=194227&m ode=category&offset=0&sort=normal Also plain linens available from: * http://www.fabrics-store.com/ and also, various discount home-dec stores. One of my projects is to stencil some linen drapes. And silks, from: * http://www.silkbaron.com * http://www.hyenaproductions.com/ * And an eBay seller with three IDs: brocadeandmore, exclusive_silks, and pure_silks. And, um, I'm using some tone-on-tone Renaissance brocade from my fabric stash. Look, the Victorians would have done it! Now I'm beating my brains out over finding the patio furniture. Specifically a dining set with a round table, and garden benches. There is a brand called Oakland Living that has great-looking, other-metal-colored aluminum pieces that imitate wrought iron. Unfortunately, they have terrible reviews for quality. I'm not a fan of teak (or any other wood) for outdoors. When new it looks gorgeous, but it involves too much upkeep if you want it to stay gorgeous. Wrought iron rusts, and plas
[h-cost] Curtains for old houses
Looking for lace curtains for our Sacramento house (which we are decorating in Arts & Crafts style) has been a pain in the tail because lace curtains are very much out of style. I was unable to find any cotton lace drapery fabric with an overall, antique-looking pattern. And very little lace fabric at all, just sheers with modern patterns that scream synthetic. However, I've found a number of pricey but authentic-looking sources for old-house curtains: * J. R. Burrows, as previously suggested on this list http://www.burrows.com/lace.html * Olde Worlde Lace http://www.oldeworldelace.com/ * London Lace http://www.londonlace.com/ * Albert Rackstand Lace on Etsy https://www.etsy.com/shop/AlbertRackstandLace?section_id=16135864&ref=shopsection_leftnav_9 In addition I recommend trolling eBay and Etsy for: * Quaker Lace curtains. A hugely popular 20th-century brand, so you can still find 100% or at least 75% cotton lace curtains for sale in their original packages. * Quaker Lace tablecloths. Denser laces but usable, and often available for low prices. Try and stay away from the thicker ones made in the 1960s. * Knotted lace tablecloths. Also known as darned net, lacis, and sellers may even call it crochet or bobbin lace or still other terms. Whatever: These are 100% natural fiber, sturdy, and very handsome. They probably date from the 1940s, give or take some years. Patterns can be either geometric or flowing. I don't like the geometric ones as much, but it's easier to find matching tablecloths in the geometric patterns. The difficulty is finding two tablecloths with the same pattern and especially, in *exactly the same shade of white or off-white*. But for rooms with single windows, the tablecloth solution can be a handsome and economical way to go. For non-lace fabric, I recommend Restoration Fabrics and Trims: * http://www.restorationfabricsandtrims.com/store.html#ecwid:category=194227&mode=category&offset=0&sort=normal Also plain linens available from: * http://www.fabrics-store.com/ and also, various discount home-dec stores. One of my projects is to stencil some linen drapes. And silks, from: * http://www.silkbaron.com * http://www.hyenaproductions.com/ * And an eBay seller with three IDs: brocadeandmore, exclusive_silks, and pure_silks. And, um, I'm using some tone-on-tone Renaissance brocade from my fabric stash. Look, the Victorians would have done it! Now I'm beating my brains out over finding the patio furniture. Specifically a dining set with a round table, and garden benches. There is a brand called Oakland Living that has great-looking, other-metal-colored aluminum pieces that imitate wrought iron. Unfortunately, they have terrible reviews for quality. I'm not a fan of teak (or any other wood) for outdoors. When new it looks gorgeous, but it involves too much upkeep if you want it to stay gorgeous. Wrought iron rusts, and plastic/resin wicker might work but might blow over. Aluminum seems like a good idea but all I see is relentlessly modern in style. I'm also not a fan of super-deep or super-low seats in any material. Any suggestions? Fran Lavolta Press Books on historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dummy wearing this season?
Well, there is Gone with the Wind. Fran On 1/14/2016 6:00 PM, R Lloyd Mitchell wrote: Devious mind, are ther literary referances to curtains being made from Garments? From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com on behalf of Lavolta Press Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2016 1:16 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dummy wearing this season? Mine is wearing hand-knotted lace drapes for the kitchen. They used to be hand-knotted lace tablecloths. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 1/14/2016 8:56 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: My mannequin is wearing a partially completed shift that was a massive fail. I have to re-think the whole thing, so there it hangs. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: R Lloyd Mitchell To: Historical Costume Sent: Thu, Jan 14, 2016 10:37 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dummy wearing this season? One mannequin is holding a robe for Queen Anne, hems and trim are waiting patiently, Queen Maud is fitfully pacing about because her coronation gown is still without the sleeve lace she has chosen and it has not arrived yet. Her white morning robes are constantly being donned and cast aside. I fear they will be dusty before the package has arrived! We have a new client, (Mrs Jack Gardner) Isabella. She has been asked to sit for Mr Sargent and has decided nothing in the closet will do. Measurements have been taken and a lovely bolt of black silk velvet chosen. The patterns are being drafted with the help of friend Miss Grimble. Mona is looking wildly about for pearls We may have to get them matched and restrung as they are to adorn the waist. Wish us God-speed as we have heard that she is Very particular) (Truth be told, after our exploits with Q.Maud, I think we should feel quite practiced in completing this project!!) From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com on behalf of michaela de bruce Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2016 6:18 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dummy wearing this season? I have a display mannequin in the lounge, but she is naked, she is mainly holding a sci-fi alien headpiece up to prevent it deforming. So I'm going to put that on once I finish typing :) My dressform is loaned out to a friend, and the one I have borrowed in replacement is also naked while I tidy my art space. I have just restored my sewing/ironing desk top so I can actually start working again :) I have a new removeable cover to finish sewing as well. Then I can iron huge applique pieces again. As for current projects: Finally finishing my c1600 Spanish gown, stage one anyway. I decided I probably won't have enough trim for the doublet and the galerilla as I thought so doublet is a higher priority. It means all new stays, finishing the underlayers and tracking down lace of a suitable size. While doing this I have documentation to write up, which means a fair amount of scanning so, ugh. Got that to look forward to. I also have an Elsa spring gown to make (Frozen Fever) as the ice gown sleeves can get a little warm at big children's events :) Michaela -- http://arrayedindreams.com https://instagram.com/i.chimaera/ https://www.facebook.com/mdb.i.chimaera ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dummy wearing this season?
Oh wait, the opposite. On 1/14/2016 6:00 PM, R Lloyd Mitchell wrote: Devious mind, are ther literary referances to curtains being made from Garments? From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com on behalf of Lavolta Press Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2016 1:16 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dummy wearing this season? Mine is wearing hand-knotted lace drapes for the kitchen. They used to be hand-knotted lace tablecloths. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 1/14/2016 8:56 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: My mannequin is wearing a partially completed shift that was a massive fail. I have to re-think the whole thing, so there it hangs. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: R Lloyd Mitchell To: Historical Costume Sent: Thu, Jan 14, 2016 10:37 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dummy wearing this season? One mannequin is holding a robe for Queen Anne, hems and trim are waiting patiently, Queen Maud is fitfully pacing about because her coronation gown is still without the sleeve lace she has chosen and it has not arrived yet. Her white morning robes are constantly being donned and cast aside. I fear they will be dusty before the package has arrived! We have a new client, (Mrs Jack Gardner) Isabella. She has been asked to sit for Mr Sargent and has decided nothing in the closet will do. Measurements have been taken and a lovely bolt of black silk velvet chosen. The patterns are being drafted with the help of friend Miss Grimble. Mona is looking wildly about for pearls We may have to get them matched and restrung as they are to adorn the waist. Wish us God-speed as we have heard that she is Very particular) (Truth be told, after our exploits with Q.Maud, I think we should feel quite practiced in completing this project!!) From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com on behalf of michaela de bruce Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2016 6:18 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dummy wearing this season? I have a display mannequin in the lounge, but she is naked, she is mainly holding a sci-fi alien headpiece up to prevent it deforming. So I'm going to put that on once I finish typing :) My dressform is loaned out to a friend, and the one I have borrowed in replacement is also naked while I tidy my art space. I have just restored my sewing/ironing desk top so I can actually start working again :) I have a new removeable cover to finish sewing as well. Then I can iron huge applique pieces again. As for current projects: Finally finishing my c1600 Spanish gown, stage one anyway. I decided I probably won't have enough trim for the doublet and the galerilla as I thought so doublet is a higher priority. It means all new stays, finishing the underlayers and tracking down lace of a suitable size. While doing this I have documentation to write up, which means a fair amount of scanning so, ugh. Got that to look forward to. I also have an Elsa spring gown to make (Frozen Fever) as the ice gown sleeves can get a little warm at big children's events :) Michaela -- http://arrayedindreams.com https://instagram.com/i.chimaera/ https://www.facebook.com/mdb.i.chimaera ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dummy wearing this season?
Mine is wearing hand-knotted lace drapes for the kitchen. They used to be hand-knotted lace tablecloths. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 1/14/2016 8:56 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: My mannequin is wearing a partially completed shift that was a massive fail. I have to re-think the whole thing, so there it hangs. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: R Lloyd Mitchell To: Historical Costume Sent: Thu, Jan 14, 2016 10:37 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dummy wearing this season? One mannequin is holding a robe for Queen Anne, hems and trim are waiting patiently, Queen Maud is fitfully pacing about because her coronation gown is still without the sleeve lace she has chosen and it has not arrived yet. Her white morning robes are constantly being donned and cast aside. I fear they will be dusty before the package has arrived! We have a new client, (Mrs Jack Gardner) Isabella. She has been asked to sit for Mr Sargent and has decided nothing in the closet will do. Measurements have been taken and a lovely bolt of black silk velvet chosen. The patterns are being drafted with the help of friend Miss Grimble. Mona is looking wildly about for pearls We may have to get them matched and restrung as they are to adorn the waist. Wish us God-speed as we have heard that she is Very particular) (Truth be told, after our exploits with Q.Maud, I think we should feel quite practiced in completing this project!!) From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com on behalf of michaela de bruce Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2016 6:18 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dummy wearing this season? I have a display mannequin in the lounge, but she is naked, she is mainly holding a sci-fi alien headpiece up to prevent it deforming. So I'm going to put that on once I finish typing :) My dressform is loaned out to a friend, and the one I have borrowed in replacement is also naked while I tidy my art space. I have just restored my sewing/ironing desk top so I can actually start working again :) I have a new removeable cover to finish sewing as well. Then I can iron huge applique pieces again. As for current projects: Finally finishing my c1600 Spanish gown, stage one anyway. I decided I probably won't have enough trim for the doublet and the galerilla as I thought so doublet is a higher priority. It means all new stays, finishing the underlayers and tracking down lace of a suitable size. While doing this I have documentation to write up, which means a fair amount of scanning so, ugh. Got that to look forward to. I also have an Elsa spring gown to make (Frozen Fever) as the ice gown sleeves can get a little warm at big children's events :) Michaela -- http://arrayedindreams.com https://instagram.com/i.chimaera/ https://www.facebook.com/mdb.i.chimaera ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] drapery fabrics was . Re: Is h-costume still going?
Two or three weeks ago, I emailed the Whole 9 Yards about any Art Nouveau drapery fabrics they might have. They very kindly sent me two batches of swatches. Unfortunately, I wouldn't describe more than one swatch as plausibly Art Nouveau and that was in colors that won't go with our decor. They really seem like a nice store to deal with but their current inventory is apparently not to our taste. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 1/8/2016 10:01 PM, Patricia Dunham wrote: So, we had a trip north today and stopped by The Whole 9 Yards to see, as we had never heard of it, and fabric stores are few and far between here… it is gorgeous, VERY easy to find and has a small amount of off-street parking (important in that part of town). Very impressive displays (as far as we were concerned) but only a little that could have been applied to our interests (Tudor & Elizabethan costuming, if we were doing those…) Did not see a lot I would have described as Art Nouveau, but a little Arts-n-Crafts or Victorian, maybe. Definitely interior decor fabrics, with a few bits of costume-applicable overlap. chimene & gerek On Dec 17, 2015, at 12:56 PM, Agnes Gawne wrote: Frances: The Whole 9 Yards fabric store in Portland had a great selection of Art Nouveau and Arts and Craft type drapery textiles last time I was in there. The good news is no sales tax in Oregon, the bad news, the store is in Oregon. They do shipping. http://w9yards.com/ (503) 223-2880 Mon - Fri 10-6 Sat 10-5 1820 E Burnside St Portland, OR 97214 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costumes in "War and Peace"
Oh sure, I just don't understand why some people think it's so much fun to get together and tear someone down. Which is really what's happening in a lot of those discussions. Some feel snarking is off limits with people they know, but the movie/TV industry is fair game. Fran On 1/5/2016 1:14 PM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: If we all liked the same thing, there would only be vanilla ice cream, as they say. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Lavolta Press To: Historical Costume Sent: Tue, Jan 5, 2016 2:17 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costumes in "War and Peace" I gave up on snarking at movie costumes many years ago. Movies are fiction. They are not documentaries, they are not meant to be educational, and they are not made primarily for viewing by historic reenactors. In many, much of the history itself is, at best, speculation. I don't watch movies for the costumes. I watch them to see whether it's good drama and looking for things to criticize just spoils the drama. When I want solid information I look elsewhere. And really, some of the Facebook discussions sound just like catty little junior-high girls gleefully tearing down each other's clothes. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 1/5/2016 2:59 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: Some of my Facebook friends are following. No one shoulder bare, or many, many, other things. I know it's theater, but even allowing for that, seems very weird. My opinion is, even though it is a story, it is based so firmly in a historical time and place, it seems downright strange to go off on such flights of fancy. Wonder if there will be a "making of" wherein it is explained? Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Victorian lace curtains
The house is a 1940s "Colonial Revival." The floor layout is absolutely not Colonial, but the architect did their bit with window shutters, wide plank oak floors, some wood paneling, and windows with historically small panes, among other details. One south-facing window appears to have been replaced and it is a single pane. Other than that, there's an issue trying to do something with all those small panes. Also, Sacramento summers are sunnier and hotter than those in San Francisco--there were plenty of days over 100 degrees this past summer. The former owner painted the house for sale, apparently following a Sherwin & Williams historic color scheme (we saw it in their exterior paint brochure and it's OK). But our contractors have told us the exterior paint and the windows will really take a beating from the heat, especially on the south sides. Other than that, the house conforms to Arts & Crafts decor as well as to anything else. In fact the living room fireplace (with onyx green tile) is more Arts & Crafts than Colonial. And some former owner put up a lot of nice brass door and window hardware, though it's mostly plated and many of the doorknobs need replacing by now. I could wish away a couple of folding plantation/shutter doors into the living room, but my husband is taking up Arts & Crafts style woodworking and after he finishes my built-in closets I hope he will replace those doors. There are two bedroom-sized rectangular rooms next to my new sewing room that the former owners used as closets. (They were both political lobbyists with huge work wardrobes.) We took out the their open closet systems because stuff stored there would fade too much, and are building in closed closets with Arts & Crafts doors. We decided not to put in any wallpaper after realizing how sunny all the rooms are. The sewing room in our San Francisco house is on the ground floor, with the windows below a kind of ledge where the upper floor sticks out more. And I've always taken care to keep the shades down and curtains drawn at all times when the room is not in use. That's probably why the wallpaper there is unfaded. One of our new neighbors used to manufacture Arts & Crafts style furniture for Rejuvenation, but he sold his business to them some years ago. Rejuvenation does send us their furniture catalogs and I'm not impressed with their current furniture. (We are having a boodle of oak furniture custom made by the Amish, especially bookcases, but their work takes 12-14 weeks.) One of our other neighbors is a very experienced cabinet maker and has been very friendly, so my husband can probably get lots of advice on his woodworking. The larger renovations are actually almost done (except for the closets my husband will build), but there a lot of some small stuff like refinishing some bathroom and pantry cabinets, which currently amply demonstrate why we'll never want a cat. Also, my husband is doing a lot of tasks like restoring more antique light fixtures we bought, installing a some oak medicine cabinets we had made, putting up curtain rods, etc. Considering we can't paint our SF house for sale till after the rainy season, and we won't get our Amish furniture till the middle to the end of February at least, we might as well actually live here and fix up the Sacramento house till then. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 1/5/2016 1:00 PM, Christine Robb wrote: On Mon, Jan 04, 2016 at 11:40:40AM -0800, Lavolta Press wrote: When we bought our San Francisco house over 30 years ago, we papered my sewing room in J. R. Burrows William Morris wallpaper, still in wonderful condition and unfaded. I'm really hoping to sell to someone who sees the wallpaper as an asset rather than something weird to just paint over. It doesn't conform to the decoration I see in most houses for sale, which tends to be beige, off-white, and modern. As for our antique light fixtures, we're moving them all to the new house and putting up cheap replacements for sale. We've uncovered some paintings on our walls that were buried under wallpaper, and cleaned some others that had always been exposed but become a bit grimy over the years. So we hope for exactly the same thing whenever we sell this house! And we'll be taking almost all our lights with us too. Too bad we can't take the walls... Great to hear that the wallpaper has stood up to the test of time. I'd love to use some, someday. The tablecloths actually look very good, although they are often heavier than commercial lace curtains. At $30 or so per tablecloth instead of $250 or so per curtain, they're a deal. Being next to sunny windows, they'll rot out and need to be replaced every few years. I've been dealing with that forever in our San Francisco house. We put window film in o
Re: [h-cost] Victorian lace curtains (Re: What costume-related gifts did everyone get?)
Those curtains are lovely. I've looked at them off and on for over 30 years, since we bought our San Francisco house. And the same or a similar manufacturer sells such curtains (with slight defects) for about half the price on Etsy. But I don't like them as much as the ones I have. I'm not restoring a historic house, I'm just furnishing my house the way I like it. I'm very glad we passed up on a couple of National Historic Register houses in Portland that we considered. In fact, I'm glad we passed up on Portland. Dealing with contractors in Sacramento and my husband driving there several times a week is enough of a headache. There seems to be a new small issue every day. I really would not want to be dealing with historic accuracy or a longer distance in addition. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 1/5/2016 5:53 AM, Katy Bishop wrote: Sonic's AntiSpam detection systems have identified this email as possible spam. The original message has been attached to this report so you can view it (if it isn't spam.) If this is a false positive, you may want to whitelist the sender or messages subject using our member tools. For more information see http://www.sonic.net/support/faq/advanced/spam.shtml To manage your E-Mail filter and delivery options see http://members.sonic.net/email/ If you have any questions, see supp...@sonic.net for details. Content preview: John Burrows lace curtains are lovely, I have some in my house. They're made on historic looms in Scotland. On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 2:06 PM, Christine Robb wrote: > On Sat, Dec 26, 2015 at 10:12:19AM -0800, Lavolta Press wrote: > > In terms of what I'm doing, right now it's making drapes. Or more like, > buy > > curtain rods, return half of them because they're theoretically Arts & > > Crafts style but they're ugly, buy more rods. Buy brass electrical > plates, > > return half of them because they are a lovely Art Nouveau style but > > oversized so would overlap the baseboards, buy smaller ones. Order > swatches > > for curtain material, half haven't arrived because the fabric store > owners > > are busy this season. Meanwhile, kitchen contractor goes on vacation for > two > > weeks. We won't actually be moving to Sacramento till March at this rate. > > > > On the bright side, I found out that if you want more or less Victorian > lace > > drapes (I'm not claiming 100% accuracy), try those Quaker Lace brand > > tablecloths that are all over eBay and Etsy every day, often at low > prices. > > You can easily get them in 100% cotton. Just sew on curtain rings. Many > of > > the expensive repro Victorian curtains actually look like tablecloths, > with > > a large central motif and borders all around. Matching the shade of > > off-white for several windows in a room is a trick but can be done. > > I haven't ordered anything from him, but he's well known in social > dance circles so some of you may know him too: > http://www.burrows.com/ > > He's done work at the MFA in Boston, tv shows, the list goes on. > Beautiful photos on the website and facebook... I don't know my > Victorian lace curtains, but would be willing to bet these aren't the > tablecloth variety. > > Fran, I expect you know about them already, but in case not, > Rejuvenation and Lee Valley both sell hardware that might be of > interest. > > Christine > > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > [...] Content analysis details: (99.9 points, 5.0 required) pts rule name description -- -- -100 SUBJECT_IN_WHITELIST Subject: contains string in the user's white-list 100 USER_IN_BLACKLIST From: address is in the user's black-list 100 SUBJECT_IN_BLACKLIST Subject: contains string in the user's black-list 0.0 FREEMAIL_FROM Sender email is commonly abused enduser mail provider (katybishop64[at]gmail.com) 0.0 DKIM_ADSP_CUSTOM_MED No valid author signature, adsp_override is CUSTOM_MED 0.0 HEADER_FROM_DIFFERENT_DOMAINS From and EnvelopeFrom 2nd level mail domains are different -1.0 SONIC_FRIEND Someone you've likely exchanged email with before -0.0 RP_MATCHES_RCVDEnvelope sender domain matches handover relay domain 0.5 SNF4SA Message Sniffer 0.1 DKIM_SIGNEDMessage has a DKIM or DK signatu
Re: [h-cost] Costumes in "War and Peace"
I gave up on snarking at movie costumes many years ago. Movies are fiction. They are not documentaries, they are not meant to be educational, and they are not made primarily for viewing by historic reenactors. In many, much of the history itself is, at best, speculation. I don't watch movies for the costumes. I watch them to see whether it's good drama and looking for things to criticize just spoils the drama. When I want solid information I look elsewhere. And really, some of the Facebook discussions sound just like catty little junior-high girls gleefully tearing down each other's clothes. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 1/5/2016 2:59 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: Some of my Facebook friends are following. No one shoulder bare, or many, many, other things. I know it's theater, but even allowing for that, seems very weird. My opinion is, even though it is a story, it is based so firmly in a historical time and place, it seems downright strange to go off on such flights of fancy. Wonder if there will be a "making of" wherein it is explained? Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Victorian lace curtains (Re: What costume-related gifts did everyone get?)
When we bought our San Francisco house over 30 years ago, we papered my sewing room in J. R. Burrows William Morris wallpaper, still in wonderful condition and unfaded. I'm really hoping to sell to someone who sees the wallpaper as an asset rather than something weird to just paint over. It doesn't conform to the decoration I see in most houses for sale, which tends to be beige, off-white, and modern. As for our antique light fixtures, we're moving them all to the new house and putting up cheap replacements for sale. The tablecloths actually look very good, although they are often heavier than commercial lace curtains. At $30 or so per tablecloth instead of $250 or so per curtain, they're a deal. Being next to sunny windows, they'll rot out and need to be replaced every few years. I've been dealing with that forever in our San Francisco house. When we bought our San Francisco house, we got our hardware from a Rejuvenation print catalog, but I find their website hard to navigate. We've bought a lot of light switch plates and other hardware for our Sacramento house from http://www.houseofantiquehardware.com/, our cabinet hardware (kitchen, bathroom, and pantry doors) from http://www.rockler.com/ (if you search on terms like "stickley" and "arts and crafts" there's a lovely selection), and lots of antique door hardware and more antique light fixtures from eBay. We buy antiques where we can find them, but it can be hard to get certain things as antiques when you want them. And we got some of our switch plates from this site: http://jamesmattson.com/collections/switchplates-bungalow-rose Fran Lavolta Press Books on historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com --- I haven't ordered anything from him, but he's well known in social dance circles so some of you may know him too: http://www.burrows.com/ He's done work at the MFA in Boston, tv shows, the list goes on. Beautiful photos on the website and facebook... I don't know my Victorian lace curtains, but would be willing to bet these aren't the tablecloth variety. Fran, I expect you know about them already, but in case not, Rejuvenation and Lee Valley both sell hardware that might be of interest. Christine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What costume-related gifts did everyone get?
In terms of what I'm doing, right now it's making drapes. Or more like, buy curtain rods, return half of them because they're theoretically Arts & Crafts style but they're ugly, buy more rods. Buy brass electrical plates, return half of them because they are a lovely Art Nouveau style but oversized so would overlap the baseboards, buy smaller ones. Order swatches for curtain material, half haven't arrived because the fabric store owners are busy this season. Meanwhile, kitchen contractor goes on vacation for two weeks. We won't actually be moving to Sacramento till March at this rate. On the bright side, I found out that if you want more or less Victorian lace drapes (I'm not claiming 100% accuracy), try those Quaker Lace brand tablecloths that are all over eBay and Etsy every day, often at low prices. You can easily get them in 100% cotton. Just sew on curtain rings. Many of the expensive repro Victorian curtains actually look like tablecloths, with a large central motif and borders all around. Matching the shade of off-white for several windows in a room is a trick but can be done. Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com On 12/26/2015 12:18 AM, Patricia Dunham wrote: Well, I got my husband the civil war uniform pattern from McCall's for his some-day Steampunk wardrobe. We haven't sewn for SCA or anything else in years, sigh. He got me a truckload of period cookery resources, but the next MC&T isn't gonna' be out until Feb or some-such. A whole buncha' stuff will be arriving next year, apparently. That's OK. I actually got my old-carpal-buzzy-nerveless fingers to do a couple of repairs on his everything-work-vest, very short stretches of very plain stitching, but now the saggy SAGGY front pocket is now looking much more respectable, as the velcro strips on both sides of the closure are actually attached! Hmm, next maybe I'll tackle the other hem on his new shop coverall, he got one done and distracted… We also have a replacement everything-vest "safari coat" remodel to finish. If we can. Have taken it apart, ready to re-make, but… that was a couple of months ago. We may be in trouble… oh well. looking forward to seeing what you all are doing! chimene On Dec 25, 2015, at 10:42 AM, Lavolta Press wrote: My husband gave me the following books: The First Book of Fashion: The Book of Clothes of Matthaeus and Veit Konrad Schwarz of Augsburg Fashion Plates: 150 Years of Style, by April Calahan Regency Women's Dress: Techniques and Patterns 1800-1830, by Cassidy Percoco and a biography: Queen Victoria's Mysterious Daughter: A Biography of Princess Louise, by Lucinda Hawksley Fran Grimble Lavolta Press Books of historic clothing patterns www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] What costume-related gifts did everyone get?
My husband gave me the following books: The First Book of Fashion: The Book of Clothes of Matthaeus and Veit Konrad Schwarz of Augsburg Fashion Plates: 150 Years of Style, by April Calahan Regency Women's Dress: Techniques and Patterns 1800-1830, by Cassidy Percoco and a biography: Queen Victoria's Mysterious Daughter: A Biography of Princess Louise, by Lucinda Hawksley Fran Grimble Lavolta Press Books of historic clothing patterns www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Stockings and Charity Sewing
I would think that, in the unlikely situation where a woman was visiting a family and did not bring enough "work" of her own, there would be a conversation like this: Guest: Please, let me help you darn those stockings. Hosts: Oh no, we wouldn't dream of asking you to do that. Guest: Honestly, I'd really love to. Hosts: Well, if you insist . . . And note that the hosts would be making their guest more comfortable by giving her something to do when she needed that. Fran Books on historic costuming www.lavoltapress.com On 12/23/2015 4:23 PM, Carol Kocian wrote: Yeah, the idea of charity sewing adds another dimension… The situation, theoretically, is a female relative visiting (cousin, maybe), with no problem for others to darn stockings or socks in her presence, but not expecting her to work on the immediate family’s old holey socks. Rather than cutting a hole for her to mend, I think having charity sewing projects around would mean she could have worked on that. If it would be the norm to have projects like that in the basket, seems it would be preferred. Or, she could be working a new item, like making a shirt or shift. Something done with new stockings is “running in” the heels. Researcher Steve Rayner found a Cuthbertson reference from 1768: …"running them in the heels will strengthen them exceedingly, therefore every Soldier should learn that piece of oeconomy, as well as to mend his stockings, it being very praise worthy, besides saving him a constant expence.” Run-in heel reinforcements are something I’ve seen in extant early 19thC stockings, but before the above info I didn’t know how early we had it documented. (Pre Rev War, Yay!!!) S, coming back around to the original story: If the relative could work on new stockings but not old ones, I think she could have done the heel reinforcements (running-in). Unless, by later eras, the running-in was part of the finishing done before you would buy the stockings. Maybe I’ll never find the source of the “cutting a hole” story, but it would be nice to know if it was from real experience or not. Thanks! -Carol On Dec 21, 2015, at 7:45 PM, Elena House wrote: (snip) My first thought was that it was historical fiction, but not necessarily modern historical fiction, if that makes sense. It could have been written say in the middle of the 20th century, when this practice might possibly have occurred to someone--or it could be a result of the earlier pulp fiction years, and possibly written by a male (who wouldn't know this didn't sound quite right) under a female pen name. My second thought was that from what I'm thinking is the original post, by Carol, I couldn't really tell what era this was supposed to be, or what class the young woman/women were supposed to belong to. Surely there would be a class divide between those who are socially expected to do 'pretty' work to show off their accomplishments, and those who would feel they were impressing the people they wanted to impress more by showing off their usefulness...? A middle-upper class family's daughter in say, 1880s NYC would certainly sew different things when a guest was there than a farming family's daughter in Ohio in the 1940s would. I still find the idea of cutting a hole in NEW stocking a bit of a stretch, but if it were a plot point in an Isn't-Our-Heroine-Just-Too-Angelic-For-Words type of 1910s young adult pulp, I wouldn't be at all surprised to find myself reading about it; it sounds like the kind of story meant to show off someone's virtue. -E House On Fri, Dec 18, 2015 at 6:32 PM, Marjorie Wilser wrote: I vote for fiction. It seems wrong on so many levels. You don’t “cut a hole" in a (new!) stocking to darn. You cut a thread and let it ravel a little. In that day, I suspect making ANY kind of hole would never have happened. You wouldn’t destroy new goods for any reason, much less to make busy work. However, the very idea of them darning stockings in a social setting is suspect. It just wouldn’t be done in polite circles. Wish I could help on the reference. ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Dec 18, 2015, at 2:05 PM, aqua...@patriot.net wrote: A young woman is visiting a household with other young women, and they are darning some stockings. It would not be proper to give her one of the family's stockings to mend, so they cut a hole in a new stocking for her to darn. The whole idea seems silly to me, because it seems that there would be some new clothing to be made or something for her to do that would not require making busy work. That's why it sounds more like historical fiction. Does it sound familiar to anyone? Thanks! -Carol ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://ma
Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?
Maybe, but the family was very much at home in that scene. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 12/18/2015 4:02 AM, Elizabeth Jones wrote: I actually wonder about how charity sewing would fit in to the fancy vs plain sewing rule in Mansfield Park there is one evening (I think they have company over but I can't remember) when Mrs Norris complains that Fanny should be sewing and if she has nothing of her own to work on there is plenty of work in the 'poor box'. Implying that making things for the poor (almost certainly underclothes, the workwoman's guide is only slightly later than this novel and it has a lot to say about making underclothes and baby clothes as charity) was a normal and expected occupation for young ladies. If it was somehow clear that what you were making was for the poor of the parish instead of your own family working on that in public would show off your charitable virtues (not a bad thing for a gentleman to look for in a wife as anything that makes your tenants happier is likely to make your estate more stable and profitable). Elizabeth On Fri, Dec 18, 2015 at 6:23 AM, Lavolta Press wrote: I get the impression that in the nineteenth century there was "private" versus "public" needlework. Unmarried young women, at least, tended to do mending and make underclothes (shirts fell into that category) only within the family (when no callers were expected) or at most, only in front of intimate female friends. Their public, "fine" needlework showed off their skills in embroidery, netting, and so forth. When they made calls, they might be embroidering a flounce for a dress, or embroidering a fire screen, but not mending stockings. Unpretentious matrons and mothers of large families might do plain sewing and mending in a more public way, but elegant married women, not. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] drapery fabrics was . Re: Is h-costume still going?
Thanks, I just emailed them. Fran On 12/17/2015 12:56 PM, Agnes Gawne wrote: Frances: The Whole 9 Yards fabric store in Portland had a great selection of Art Nouveau and Arts and Craft type drapery textiles last time I was in there. The good news is no sales tax in Oregon, the bad news, the store is in Oregon. They do shipping. http://w9yards.com/ (503) 223-2880 Mon - Fri 10-6 Sat 10-5 1820 E Burnside St Portland, OR 97214 Good luck with your house. - -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Lavolta Press Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2015 10:57 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going? I'm still here and have been since h-costume started. I am not sewing any garments because I have to make all the drapes for a 5,000-square-foot house my husband and I bought in June and have not moved into yet. (Not to mention a lot of time-consuming stuff like picking out paint colors and Arts & Crafts cabinet knobs.) Not a fixer-upper but lots of work being done, like complete kitchen remodeling, installing hardwood floors in several rooms that did not have them already, and painting. Then the landscaping needed work too. Everything takes longer than it was supposed to. The house is a 1940s Colonial Revival and we are furnishing it combined Arts & Crafts/Art Nouveau style. Many features like oak flooring and a fireplace with green tile carry over quite well. The sellers took all the window coverings, which we probably wouldn't have liked anyway. Some of the windows are fairly strange sizes and we ordered historic reproduction custom-made roller shades for most of them. Which BTW turned out not to cost any more than most of the ready-made shades I looked at, and they're actually cotton instead of polyester. The challenge I am facing is getting the fabric for the drapes. It seems I want a fairly flat look, probably 1 1/2 times fullness. Since this is not a bungalow, I figured a general-Victorian-look brocade is OK, and I have a lot of that in my stash, though in many cases not enough for a window. And I had some embroidered linen I bought online that turned out to have motifs too large for clothes. For three rooms that only have one window, what with only 1 1/2 times fullness I managed to squeeze three windows' worth of drapes out of stash fabric. The rest of the fabric is proving to be a pain to find. So if anyone knows where to buy repro Arts & Crafts or Art Nouveau drapery fabric in quantities up to 18 yards for a single room, I'd LOVE to know. It seems I can use a textured fabric such as dupioni or linen (preferably stenciled linen) if I have to, but I wanted to furnish some rooms with Art Nouveau brocades. Have to say I think the average "bungalow" decorating book (trendier than just Arts & Crafts) is somewhat misleading on recommending no drapes at all or maybe only sheer drapes if you must have something. The few period pictures mostly show the usual set of lace drapes, outer drapes, sometimes a valance as well. The Victorians and Edwardians didn't want the sun full on their faces at dawn, or the neighbors peering into their windows, any more than we do. Fran Lavolta Press Books of historic clothing patterns www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume End of h-costume Digest, Vol 14, Issue 54 * ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?
I think the question is who a woman wanted (or needed) to impress, with both her fine needlework skills, and with the evidence that she had sufficient leisure to devote to those instead of mending and plain sewing. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 12/17/2015 12:13 PM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: You are probably mostly right. However, Rachel Van Dyke did write once of taking her "bundles" of mending down when a friend called and so had one bundle less at the end of the visit. Of course, even those clothes in the bundle that needed mending may not have been the most intimate ones, or, as you say, it may have been an intimate friend--I don't think she specified. And yes, mending stockings seems to have been mostly a solitary pursuit and may have added to the drudgery of the chore. Hard to know if Ruth Henshaw was in company or alone when mending, but remember she was visiting away from home. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Lavolta Press To: Historical Costume Sent: Thu, Dec 17, 2015 2:23 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going? I get the impression that in the nineteenth century there was "private" versus "public" needlework. Unmarried young women, at least, tended to do mending and make underclothes (shirts fell into that category) only within the family (when no callers were expected) or at most, only in front of intimate female friends. Their public, "fine" needlework showed off their skills in embroidery, netting, and so forth. When they made calls, they might be embroidering a flounce for a dress, or embroidering a fire screen, but not mending stockings. Unpretentious matrons and mothers of large families might do plain sewing and mending in a more public way, but elegant married women, not.FranLavolta Presswww.lavoltapress.comOn 12/17/2015 6:38 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:> I have been getting the monthly reminders from indra.com, but I have to admit I don't read them.>>> I also have something to share--this is based on the paper I gave at the Jane Austen Society of North America's annual general meeting in Louisville in October.>>>> http://www.jasna.org/persuasions/on-line/vol36no1/wass.html>>> Ann Wass>>>> -Original Message-> From: Robin Netherton > To: Historical Costume > Sent: Thu, Dec 17, 2015 9:33 am> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?>> I'm here -- but my first post saying so (from an alternate address by mistake) was rejected.On 12/17/2015 12:17 AM, Carol Kocian wrote:> Hi all,>> Is h-costume still going? I’m trying to change my e-mail address for it, but the link below does not work.>> Thanks!> -Carol>>>>> ___>> h-costume mailing list>> h-costume@mail.indra.com>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume>>> ___> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume>-- Robin NethertonEditor, Medieval Clothing and Textilesrobin@netherton.netvoice: (314) 439-1222Life is just a bowl of queries._ __h-costume mailing listh-costume@mail.indra.comhttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume> ___> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume>>___h-costume mailing listh-costume@mail.indra.comhttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?
Yeah, well, I've looked into Spoonflower and all I'd get is cheap-looking garment-weight cottons that fade fast. The drapes will receive plenty of light from other windows in the rooms, so lining doesn't solve the whole problem. I'm looking for silks (or at least really good synthetic equivalents) and maybe 100% linens. Fran On 12/17/2015 11:51 AM, Sharon Collier wrote: What if you lined them? That's what I do with my drapes; the lining takes the UV beating, not my fashion fabric. -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Lavolta Press Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2015 11:27 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going? I've heard of Spoonflower many times, and I'm staying firmly away from it. Their fabrics are not supposed to be very fast and some windows get a lot of sun. After going to all this trouble I want the drapes to last as many years as possible. Anyway, I don't want printed cotton drapes unless they are something really nice like Liberty home-dec. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 12/17/2015 11:15 AM, Sharon Collier wrote: Have you heard of www.spoonflower.com? It's a site where you can design your own fabric or choose from thousands of others designed by others. After you find your design, you can choose to have it made in one of over a dozen fabrics. So you could have matching drapes and upholstery, for example. Sharon C. -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Lavolta Press Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2015 10:57 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going? I'm still here and have been since h-costume started. I am not sewing any garments because I have to make all the drapes for a 5,000-square-foot house my husband and I bought in June and have not moved into yet. (Not to mention a lot of time-consuming stuff like picking out paint colors and Arts & Crafts cabinet knobs.) Not a fixer-upper but lots of work being done, like complete kitchen remodeling, installing hardwood floors in several rooms that did not have them already, and painting. Then the landscaping needed work too. Everything takes longer than it was supposed to. The house is a 1940s Colonial Revival and we are furnishing it combined Arts & Crafts/Art Nouveau style. Many features like oak flooring and a fireplace with green tile carry over quite well. The sellers took all the window coverings, which we probably wouldn't have liked anyway. Some of the windows are fairly strange sizes and we ordered historic reproduction custom-made roller shades for most of them. Which BTW turned out not to cost any more than most of the ready-made shades I looked at, and they're actually cotton instead of polyester. The challenge I am facing is getting the fabric for the drapes. It seems I want a fairly flat look, probably 1 1/2 times fullness. Since this is not a bungalow, I figured a general-Victorian-look brocade is OK, and I have a lot of that in my stash, though in many cases not enough for a window. And I had some embroidered linen I bought online that turned out to have motifs too large for clothes. For three rooms that only have one window, what with only 1 1/2 times fullness I managed to squeeze three windows' worth of drapes out of stash fabric. The rest of the fabric is proving to be a pain to find. So if anyone knows where to buy repro Arts & Crafts or Art Nouveau drapery fabric in quantities up to 18 yards for a single room, I'd LOVE to know. It seems I can use a textured fabric such as dupioni or linen (preferably stenciled linen) if I have to, but I wanted to furnish some rooms with Art Nouveau brocades. Have to say I think the average "bungalow" decorating book (trendier than just Arts & Crafts) is somewhat misleading on recommending no drapes at all or maybe only sheer drapes if you must have something. The few period pictures mostly show the usual set of lace drapes, outer drapes, sometimes a valance as well. The Victorians and Edwardians didn't want the sun full on their faces at dawn, or the neighbors peering into their windows, any more than we do. Fran Lavolta Press Books of historic clothing patterns www.lavoltapress.com On 12/17/2015 9:36 AM, aqua...@patriot.net wrote: You're welcome! I suppose people could say what they are working on. Right now I'm working on switching things to a new e-mail address. :-) So, the url below doesn't do anything. I suppose I could try the sub and unsub options. Does anyone have the info for that? I tried "help" but the message bounced. Thanks! -Carol Thanks for letting me know you are all here. Monica Spence -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-bou
Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?
I've heard of Spoonflower many times, and I'm staying firmly away from it. Their fabrics are not supposed to be very fast and some windows get a lot of sun. After going to all this trouble I want the drapes to last as many years as possible. Anyway, I don't want printed cotton drapes unless they are something really nice like Liberty home-dec. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 12/17/2015 11:15 AM, Sharon Collier wrote: Have you heard of www.spoonflower.com? It's a site where you can design your own fabric or choose from thousands of others designed by others. After you find your design, you can choose to have it made in one of over a dozen fabrics. So you could have matching drapes and upholstery, for example. Sharon C. -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Lavolta Press Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2015 10:57 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going? I'm still here and have been since h-costume started. I am not sewing any garments because I have to make all the drapes for a 5,000-square-foot house my husband and I bought in June and have not moved into yet. (Not to mention a lot of time-consuming stuff like picking out paint colors and Arts & Crafts cabinet knobs.) Not a fixer-upper but lots of work being done, like complete kitchen remodeling, installing hardwood floors in several rooms that did not have them already, and painting. Then the landscaping needed work too. Everything takes longer than it was supposed to. The house is a 1940s Colonial Revival and we are furnishing it combined Arts & Crafts/Art Nouveau style. Many features like oak flooring and a fireplace with green tile carry over quite well. The sellers took all the window coverings, which we probably wouldn't have liked anyway. Some of the windows are fairly strange sizes and we ordered historic reproduction custom-made roller shades for most of them. Which BTW turned out not to cost any more than most of the ready-made shades I looked at, and they're actually cotton instead of polyester. The challenge I am facing is getting the fabric for the drapes. It seems I want a fairly flat look, probably 1 1/2 times fullness. Since this is not a bungalow, I figured a general-Victorian-look brocade is OK, and I have a lot of that in my stash, though in many cases not enough for a window. And I had some embroidered linen I bought online that turned out to have motifs too large for clothes. For three rooms that only have one window, what with only 1 1/2 times fullness I managed to squeeze three windows' worth of drapes out of stash fabric. The rest of the fabric is proving to be a pain to find. So if anyone knows where to buy repro Arts & Crafts or Art Nouveau drapery fabric in quantities up to 18 yards for a single room, I'd LOVE to know. It seems I can use a textured fabric such as dupioni or linen (preferably stenciled linen) if I have to, but I wanted to furnish some rooms with Art Nouveau brocades. Have to say I think the average "bungalow" decorating book (trendier than just Arts & Crafts) is somewhat misleading on recommending no drapes at all or maybe only sheer drapes if you must have something. The few period pictures mostly show the usual set of lace drapes, outer drapes, sometimes a valance as well. The Victorians and Edwardians didn't want the sun full on their faces at dawn, or the neighbors peering into their windows, any more than we do. Fran Lavolta Press Books of historic clothing patterns www.lavoltapress.com On 12/17/2015 9:36 AM, aqua...@patriot.net wrote: You're welcome! I suppose people could say what they are working on. Right now I'm working on switching things to a new e-mail address. :-) So, the url below doesn't do anything. I suppose I could try the sub and unsub options. Does anyone have the info for that? I tried "help" but the message bounced. Thanks! -Carol Thanks for letting me know you are all here. Monica Spence -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Robin Netherton Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2015 9:31 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going? I'm here -- but my first post saying so (from an alternate address by mistake) was rejected. On 12/17/2015 12:17 AM, Carol Kocian wrote: Hi all, Is h-costume still going? I’m trying to change my e-mail address for it, but the link below does not work. Thanks! -Carol ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- Robin Netherton Edito
Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?
I get the impression that in the nineteenth century there was "private" versus "public" needlework. Unmarried young women, at least, tended to do mending and make underclothes (shirts fell into that category) only within the family (when no callers were expected) or at most, only in front of intimate female friends. Their public, "fine" needlework showed off their skills in embroidery, netting, and so forth. When they made calls, they might be embroidering a flounce for a dress, or embroidering a fire screen, but not mending stockings. Unpretentious matrons and mothers of large families might do plain sewing and mending in a more public way, but elegant married women, not. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 12/17/2015 6:38 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: I have been getting the monthly reminders from indra.com, but I have to admit I don't read them. I also have something to share--this is based on the paper I gave at the Jane Austen Society of North America's annual general meeting in Louisville in October. http://www.jasna.org/persuasions/on-line/vol36no1/wass.html Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Robin Netherton To: Historical Costume Sent: Thu, Dec 17, 2015 9:33 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going? I'm here -- but my first post saying so (from an alternate address by mistake) was rejected.On 12/17/2015 12:17 AM, Carol Kocian wrote:> Hi all,>> Is h-costume still going? I’m trying to change my e-mail address for it, but the link below does not work.>> Thanks!> -Carol>>>>> ___>> h-costume mailing list>> h-costume@mail.indra.com>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume>>> ___> h-costume mailing list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume>-- Robin NethertonEditor, Medieval Clothing and Textilesrobin@netherton.netvoice: (314) 439-1222Life is just a bowl of queries.___h-costume mailing listh-costume@mail.indra.comhttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?
I'm still here and have been since h-costume started. I am not sewing any garments because I have to make all the drapes for a 5,000-square-foot house my husband and I bought in June and have not moved into yet. (Not to mention a lot of time-consuming stuff like picking out paint colors and Arts & Crafts cabinet knobs.) Not a fixer-upper but lots of work being done, like complete kitchen remodeling, installing hardwood floors in several rooms that did not have them already, and painting. Then the landscaping needed work too. Everything takes longer than it was supposed to. The house is a 1940s Colonial Revival and we are furnishing it combined Arts & Crafts/Art Nouveau style. Many features like oak flooring and a fireplace with green tile carry over quite well. The sellers took all the window coverings, which we probably wouldn't have liked anyway. Some of the windows are fairly strange sizes and we ordered historic reproduction custom-made roller shades for most of them. Which BTW turned out not to cost any more than most of the ready-made shades I looked at, and they're actually cotton instead of polyester. The challenge I am facing is getting the fabric for the drapes. It seems I want a fairly flat look, probably 1 1/2 times fullness. Since this is not a bungalow, I figured a general-Victorian-look brocade is OK, and I have a lot of that in my stash, though in many cases not enough for a window. And I had some embroidered linen I bought online that turned out to have motifs too large for clothes. For three rooms that only have one window, what with only 1 1/2 times fullness I managed to squeeze three windows' worth of drapes out of stash fabric. The rest of the fabric is proving to be a pain to find. So if anyone knows where to buy repro Arts & Crafts or Art Nouveau drapery fabric in quantities up to 18 yards for a single room, I'd LOVE to know. It seems I can use a textured fabric such as dupioni or linen (preferably stenciled linen) if I have to, but I wanted to furnish some rooms with Art Nouveau brocades. Have to say I think the average "bungalow" decorating book (trendier than just Arts & Crafts) is somewhat misleading on recommending no drapes at all or maybe only sheer drapes if you must have something. The few period pictures mostly show the usual set of lace drapes, outer drapes, sometimes a valance as well. The Victorians and Edwardians didn't want the sun full on their faces at dawn, or the neighbors peering into their windows, any more than we do. Fran Lavolta Press Books of historic clothing patterns www.lavoltapress.com On 12/17/2015 9:36 AM, aqua...@patriot.net wrote: You're welcome! I suppose people could say what they are working on. Right now I'm working on switching things to a new e-mail address. :-) So, the url below doesn't do anything. I suppose I could try the sub and unsub options. Does anyone have the info for that? I tried "help" but the message bounced. Thanks! -Carol Thanks for letting me know you are all here. Monica Spence -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Robin Netherton Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2015 9:31 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going? I'm here -- but my first post saying so (from an alternate address by mistake) was rejected. On 12/17/2015 12:17 AM, Carol Kocian wrote: Hi all, Is h-costume still going? I’m trying to change my e-mail address for it, but the link below does not work. Thanks! -Carol ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- Robin Netherton Editor, Medieval Clothing and Textiles ro...@netherton.net voice: (314) 439-1222 Life is just a bowl of queries. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Moving
I never post any photos online. Re fixups, my husband is turning two rooms, each the size of a small bedroom, into closet rooms, with closets all along the walls. One is for sewing stuff and one is for my clothes. I also want to replace two bifold "plantation" doors to the living room (they look like big shutters) which are too fussy for my taste. He's taking up DIY carpentry (he's done a little before) and I am all for it. I've bought him several books. I hope to talk him into building the new fence, or at least the wood part of it. There is also a wrought iron area of fencing and a stucco wall area, but the wood is what we need to replace. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 9/1/2015 12:14 PM, Galadriel wrote: Well now you've got me curious! Are you willing to post some pictures? Sounds divine! My house is a vintage 1997... I love that it has good insulation and no electrical or plumbing problems, but it is a bit short in the charm department! It's so fun to look at real estate and see how people fix things up! We have been fixing our house up despite its newness (former forclosure - angry teenager punched 39 holes in the wall, multi-colored badly painted walls, that kind of thing). --Rachel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Moving
In terms of the proportion of houses of different dates available, 1940s does seem old. Our SF house was built in 1941 and it's kind of scary to think that was 74 years ago. Anyway, we are really glad to get this house. It is so much better than anything we could possibly buy for that price anywhere in the SF Bay Area, even the far fringes. Even for Sacramento, getting two acres in an urban area, close to lots of shopping, is pretty unusual. It was a divorce sale. When the couple finally quit fighting about the house, they knocked the price way down to sell it and we bid soon after that. We are liking the Sacramento climate. It doesn't feel as hot as we expected and it's not foggy like the Sunset in SF. One good thing about an older house is that it does not have wall-to-wall windows, which are trendy but not what I want in a hot, sunny climate. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 8/31/2015 12:10 PM, Ginni Morgan wrote: Ummm, 1940s isn't old for Northern California considering Sacramento has been around since 1849/50 and the Sacramento and San Joaquin Valleys were pretty much completely settled and being farmed by the 1860s through 1880s. And a lot of the other towns in the Valley are of similar age. However, a 1940s house certainly can be considered to be of late middle age. It's just not really a senior citizen in comparison to a lot of others houses around town. ;>) Congratulations on your new home and welcome to Sacramento! Ginni (Sacramento almost native since 1957) -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Lavolta Press Sent: Sunday, August 30, 2015 2:43 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Moving We're not going to take care of the garden ourselves. The previous owner had a team of two gardeners who come once a week and we kept them on. Yes, there are many large, mature trees. Also an incredibly prolific Meyer lemon tree. A lot of rose bushes but all white. It's more like a landscaped park than a flower garden. It even has an outdoor lighting system for night use. The previous owner didn't obey any water restrictions and the Sacramento water department asked us to cut down, so we cut down 50%. Things are a little droopy now, but would be better if the arrangement of the sprinkler system were more effective. We're going to get some landscaping people to look at the garden once we move in, move the sprinklers or install a drip system, prune some trees, and maybe we'll change gardeners. But that's not our first priority. I want to plant a mandarin orange tree, which should flourish considering how well the lemon tree is doing. I will look into the Sacramento heritage housing for information. 1940s is old for northern California, after all. Thanks for the suggestion. Currently what information we have on remodels is from long-time neighbors. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 8/30/2015 2:16 PM, Patricia Dunham wrote: Sounds MARVELOUS! We've been following American Bungalow magazine and the other major Arts-n-Crafts-houses one (which I can never remember the name of!) for quite a while now. Since it's only the 40's, that's probably too recent for any Sacramento heritage-housing organization to be interested in??? Such a group MIGHT have info about the early days of your house. The Rehab Addict gal (HGTV) often finds wonderful pictures of early days of her houses that way. Hope you have some medium or bigger, drought-resistant trees to help with microclimates and passive cooling! We have several maples and hazelnut trees that help our (VERY) little 50s rancher a LOT that way. Also, 2-acre garden, oy! Best wishes! chimene the envious, 8-) On Aug 30, 2015, at 12:30 PM, Lavolta Press wrote: The seller did a lot of work to prepare for the sale, including a new roof, and we now have estimates for all the indoor work we want to do. So I don't think there will be any more expensive surprises. The other surprises are kind of fun. The house is almost 5,000 square feet (plus garage) and was built in the 40s as a Colonial Revival style. I grew up in an area where there were plenty of real Colonial houses and see little resemblance, unless you count wide hallways, and wide doorways to all the public rooms. It could as easily be Mission, which is more the look we're aiming at. Anyway, there have been a number of owners and each one has remodeled the property in some significant way. We're not even sure how much of the house is original and what was added on or when. We keep discovering things. The other day a painting contractor who came to give an estimate examined the drywall on the living room ceiling. He pointed out there were long patches indicating that the ceiling once had ornamental Mission style beams across it. I'd rather like to p
Re: [h-cost] Moving
We're not going to take care of the garden ourselves. The previous owner had a team of two gardeners who come once a week and we kept them on. Yes, there are many large, mature trees. Also an incredibly prolific Meyer lemon tree. A lot of rose bushes but all white. It's more like a landscaped park than a flower garden. It even has an outdoor lighting system for night use. The previous owner didn't obey any water restrictions and the Sacramento water department asked us to cut down, so we cut down 50%. Things are a little droopy now, but would be better if the arrangement of the sprinkler system were more effective. We're going to get some landscaping people to look at the garden once we move in, move the sprinklers or install a drip system, prune some trees, and maybe we'll change gardeners. But that's not our first priority. I want to plant a mandarin orange tree, which should flourish considering how well the lemon tree is doing. I will look into the Sacramento heritage housing for information. 1940s is old for northern California, after all. Thanks for the suggestion. Currently what information we have on remodels is from long-time neighbors. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 8/30/2015 2:16 PM, Patricia Dunham wrote: Sounds MARVELOUS! We've been following American Bungalow magazine and the other major Arts-n-Crafts-houses one (which I can never remember the name of!) for quite a while now. Since it's only the 40's, that's probably too recent for any Sacramento heritage-housing organization to be interested in??? Such a group MIGHT have info about the early days of your house. The Rehab Addict gal (HGTV) often finds wonderful pictures of early days of her houses that way. Hope you have some medium or bigger, drought-resistant trees to help with microclimates and passive cooling! We have several maples and hazelnut trees that help our (VERY) little 50s rancher a LOT that way. Also, 2-acre garden, oy! Best wishes! chimene the envious, 8-) On Aug 30, 2015, at 12:30 PM, Lavolta Press wrote: The seller did a lot of work to prepare for the sale, including a new roof, and we now have estimates for all the indoor work we want to do. So I don't think there will be any more expensive surprises. The other surprises are kind of fun. The house is almost 5,000 square feet (plus garage) and was built in the 40s as a Colonial Revival style. I grew up in an area where there were plenty of real Colonial houses and see little resemblance, unless you count wide hallways, and wide doorways to all the public rooms. It could as easily be Mission, which is more the look we're aiming at. Anyway, there have been a number of owners and each one has remodeled the property in some significant way. We're not even sure how much of the house is original and what was added on or when. We keep discovering things. The other day a painting contractor who came to give an estimate examined the drywall on the living room ceiling. He pointed out there were long patches indicating that the ceiling once had ornamental Mission style beams across it. I'd rather like to put beams in there now, but my husband refuses. There is a family room next to it with an entirely wooden ceiling, massive (pr! o! bably) nonsupportive beams and all, so I suppose that will have to do. We hadn't even really examined the grounds closely till recently. There are a number of benches and things we may have to do something about at some point. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 8/30/2015 12:02 PM, WorkroomButtons.com wrote: ... BTW, for the few who are left in h-costume, I just wanted to say my husband and I are cashing in our SF house, which we've owned for over 30 years, to take advantage of the local real estate boom. And we already bought our dream house in the Sacramento area! We don't expect to move in till sometime in the fall. We're having the house painted in Arts & Crafts colors, oak flooring put into the few rooms that don't already have it, and remodeling the kitchen with custom "mission" cabinets. And some fixups here and there. There is a gorgeous garden (almost 2 acres), but we recently discovered the sprinkler system needs to be moved and part of the fence needs to be replaced . . . My sewing room is a huge master bedroom with a separate large room (formerly an indoor swimming pool, according to the neighbors), for use as a closet. There are two other bedrooms plus a guest suite, so we don't need to sleep in it, anyway for a bedroom it's absurdly large. So we are really excited. We also need to buy more furniture, preferably antique, late 19th/early 20th century. Especially more bookcases. So if anyone knows of any great antique stores in that area, email me! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@
Re: [h-cost] h-costume on facebook?
Really, Majordomo lists are superior except for not transferring images, which people discussing costuming often want to do. I'd assume maybe they can, if the moderator sets it up? People have more bandwidth now than they did 20+ years ago when I first joined. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 8/30/2015 12:13 PM, Brenda Bell wrote: From: Carol Kocian Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2015 14:13:50 -0400 Subject: [h-cost] h-costume on facebook? Does h-costume have a presence on facebook? Someone was just asking for an all-era sewing group, not just for patterns, not just for challenges, but a place to discuss and ask questions. Thanks! -Carol From: Patricia Dunham Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2015 12:01:19 -0700 Subject: Re: [h-cost] h-costume on facebook? Message: 2 I hope not, or if so, that it is an open site… I don't care to turn my life over to the world via Facebook and SO many research sites there are locked up where you can't see the info! I'd encourage folk to join mailing lists like this one -- even though it's "older technology", there are no issues with Facebook's constantly changing privacy settings, harvesting user information, and so on. (I have not, and will not, join Facebook. That said, I *am* on LinkedIn, Google+, Twitter, Pinterest, and a number of Yahoo groups, which *also* do a bunch of privacy invasion/info harvesting). Brenda F. Bell webwar...@earthlink.net Support me in riding the 2015 Tour de Cure to Stop Diabetes! http://main.diabetes.org/goto/tmana ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Moving
The seller did a lot of work to prepare for the sale, including a new roof, and we now have estimates for all the indoor work we want to do. So I don't think there will be any more expensive surprises. The other surprises are kind of fun. The house is almost 5,000 square feet (plus garage) and was built in the 40s as a Colonial Revival style. I grew up in an area where there were plenty of real Colonial houses and see little resemblance, unless you count wide hallways, and wide doorways to all the public rooms. It could as easily be Mission, which is more the look we're aiming at. Anyway, there have been a number of owners and each one has remodeled the property in some significant way. We're not even sure how much of the house is original and what was added on or when. We keep discovering things. The other day a painting contractor who came to give an estimate examined the drywall on the living room ceiling. He pointed out there were long patches indicating that the ceiling once had ornamental Mission style beams across it. I'd rather like to put beams in there now, but my husband refuses. There is a family room next to it with an entirely wooden ceiling, massive (probably) nonsupportive beams and all, so I suppose that will have to do. We hadn't even really examined the grounds closely till recently. There are a number of benches and things we may have to do something about at some point. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 8/30/2015 12:02 PM, WorkroomButtons.com wrote: That really does sound like a dream house! Hope the transition goes smoothly and that there are no more surprises (at least not costly ones). :-) -Dede _ West Village Studio www.workroombuttons.com From: Lavolta Press To: Historical Costume Sent: Sunday, August 30, 2015 2:05 PM Subject: [h-cost] Moving BTW, for the few who are left in h-costume, I just wanted to say my husband and I are cashing in our SF house, which we've owned for over 30 years, to take advantage of the local real estate boom. And we already bought our dream house in the Sacramento area! We don't expect to move in till sometime in the fall. We're having the house painted in Arts & Crafts colors, oak flooring put into the few rooms that don't already have it, and remodeling the kitchen with custom "mission" cabinets. And some fixups here and there. There is a gorgeous garden (almost 2 acres), but we recently discovered the sprinkler system needs to be moved and part of the fence needs to be replaced . . . My sewing room is a huge master bedroom with a separate large room (formerly an indoor swimming pool, according to the neighbors), for use as a closet. There are two other bedrooms plus a guest suite, so we don't need to sleep in it, anyway for a bedroom it's absurdly large. So we are really excited. We also need to buy more furniture, preferably antique, late 19th/early 20th century. Especially more bookcases. So if anyone knows of any great antique stores in that area, email me! Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Moving
BTW, for the few who are left in h-costume, I just wanted to say my husband and I are cashing in our SF house, which we've owned for over 30 years, to take advantage of the local real estate boom. And we already bought our dream house in the Sacramento area! We don't expect to move in till sometime in the fall. We're having the house painted in Arts & Crafts colors, oak flooring put into the few rooms that don't already have it, and remodeling the kitchen with custom "mission" cabinets. And some fixups here and there. There is a gorgeous garden (almost 2 acres), but we recently discovered the sprinkler system needs to be moved and part of the fence needs to be replaced . . . My sewing room is a huge master bedroom with a separate large room (formerly an indoor swimming pool, according to the neighbors), for use as a closet. There are two other bedrooms plus a guest suite, so we don't need to sleep in it, anyway for a bedroom it's absurdly large. So we are really excited. We also need to buy more furniture, preferably antique, late 19th/early 20th century. Especially more bookcases. So if anyone knows of any great antique stores in that area, email me! Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume on facebook?
I don't think GBACG restricts their FB membership to local residents, but they do focus primarily on local events. If you want a regional FB group that includes some discussion of more general costuming issues, there is a huge number of them for different areas. Just look up your city, state, region, and you'll probably find such a group. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 8/30/2015 10:02 AM, Carol Kocian wrote: It is, and they seem to fit the criteria of an all-era group. Unless they limit membership to the Greater Bay Area? I think the person asking (on facebook) wanted to see if there was a group already established before starting her own. There are a lot with a specific era of focus. -Carol On Aug 30, 2015, at 10:35 AM, costumrs wrote: I believe that is the FB page for the Greater Bay Area Costumers Guild. Sandy Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone Original message From: Wicked Frau Date:08/29/2015 2:41 PM (GMT-06:00) To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] h-costume on facebook? That is the official facebook page for this list? I never knew there was one. On Sat, Aug 29, 2015 at 12:35 PM, Cin wrote: Yes, https://www.facebook.com/groups/gbacg/ and each Guild event often has it's own FB event announcement. --cin Cynthia Barnes On Sat, Aug 29, 2015 at 11:13 AM, Carol Kocian wrote: Does h-costume have a presence on facebook? Someone was just asking for an all-era sewing group, not just for patterns, not just for challenges, but a place to discuss and ask questions. Thanks! -Carol ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- -Sg- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume on facebook?
I don't think many FB groups are invitation only or require a private request to a moderator to be added. But to post, you do have to join by clicking a "Join this group" button. That said, FB is generally not a venue where long, substantive discussions take place. Its tiny message boxes encourage people not to write anything longer than two lines. You can post a longer message--the box expands to some extent--but many people don't. The other thing about FB is that its basic setup, the culture the company has strongly encouraged, is for people to get torqued about how many people "like" what they say (and by extension themselves), which also does not encourage substantive discussion. Collecting likes is silly and juvenile, but it does appeal to something in human nature. There is no real substitute for Majordomo and Yahoo type groups. Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com On 8/30/2015 6:38 AM, Genie wrote: Many of the groups on FB are closed/invitation only, or you request to be added. there are options if you don't want to set up an open group. FB doesn't have to be a black hole. -Original Message- From: Cin Sent: Aug 29, 2015 2:35 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] h-costume on facebook? Yes, https://www.facebook.com/groups/gbacg/ and each Guild event often has it's own FB event announcement. --cin Cynthia Barnes On Sat, Aug 29, 2015 at 11:13 AM, Carol Kocian wrote: Does h-costume have a presence on facebook? Someone was just asking for an all-era sewing group, not just for patterns, not just for challenges, but a place to discuss and ask questions. Thanks! -Carol ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume on facebook?
You could start one. Fran On 8/29/2015 11:13 AM, Carol Kocian wrote: Does h-costume have a presence on facebook? Someone was just asking for an all-era sewing group, not just for patterns, not just for challenges, but a place to discuss and ask questions. Thanks! -Carol ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Stange detail on early 1900's shirtwaists - help?
I don't know where the blouse came from, but there is another issue with vintage items. Dealers repair items to make them salable. I have seen ties I am sure were modernly shortened (different thread and stitch lengths), probably because the ends were frayed. And ties cut off altogether all the way up to the center back where they were sewed down. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 8/14/2015 11:02 AM, WorkroomButtons.com wrote: Thanks so much! We have shirtwaists that do have a longer front, but this one does not. Also, even assuming a tiny waistline, the outside ties are not long enough for a bow -- they can only be knotted. Would the knotted ties be hidden under the skirt top? Any clue as to the purpose of the longer inner ties? Dede _ West Village Studio www.workroombuttons.com From: Lavolta Press To: Historical Costume Sent: Friday, August 14, 2015 1:31 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Stange detail on early 1900's shirtwaists - help? The ties are quite usual in Edwardian blouses. They are sewn to the back of the blouse and come around to tie in front. They are often too short to tie in a bow rather than a knot, although possibly the original wearer had a smaller waistline than a modern wearer. It's hard to tell the waist size with a full style of blouse. The purpose of the ties is to keep the blouse from riding up, and to secure the arrangement of waist folds the wearer made when putting on the blouse, especially if the blouse has a front "puff" (it will look longer in front than in back when not being worn if that is the case). Blouses of this period could button in either the front or the back, but whichever has the ties sewn to it is the back. Hope this helps. Fran Lavolta Press Books of historic clothing patterns www.lavoltapress.com On 8/14/2015 8:21 AM, WorkroomButtons.com wrote: We've encountered a puzzling detail present on several early 1900's shirtwaists at the Reed Homestead (THS Clothing Collection). One example can be seen here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/workroombuttons/albums/72157657235770901 Please be sure to scroll down a bit and read the descriptions below the photos. 1. What is the function of the ties? Front ties are too short to be tied into a back bow, and inside ties...?2. Which is the front side of the shirtwaist: pleats or buttons? We're really stuck here! Can anyone help us out? Thanks! Sincerely,Dede O'Hair _ West Village Studio www.workroombuttons.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Stange detail on early 1900's shirtwaists - help?
The ties are quite usual in Edwardian blouses. They are sewn to the back of the blouse and come around to tie in front. They are often too short to tie in a bow rather than a knot, although possibly the original wearer had a smaller waistline than a modern wearer. It's hard to tell the waist size with a full style of blouse. The purpose of the ties is to keep the blouse from riding up, and to secure the arrangement of waist folds the wearer made when putting on the blouse, especially if the blouse has a front "puff" (it will look longer in front than in back when not being worn if that is the case). Blouses of this period could button in either the front or the back, but whichever has the ties sewn to it is the back. Hope this helps. Fran Lavolta Press Books of historic clothing patterns www.lavoltapress.com On 8/14/2015 8:21 AM, WorkroomButtons.com wrote: We've encountered a puzzling detail present on several early 1900's shirtwaists at the Reed Homestead (THS Clothing Collection). One example can be seen here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/workroombuttons/albums/72157657235770901 Please be sure to scroll down a bit and read the descriptions below the photos. 1. What is the function of the ties? Front ties are too short to be tied into a back bow, and inside ties...?2. Which is the front side of the shirtwaist: pleats or buttons? We're really stuck here! Can anyone help us out? Thanks! Sincerely,Dede O'Hair _ West Village Studio www.workroombuttons.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] post-mortem photos
Didn't they ever use stands to keep live infants in position for the time necessary for the photo? It's not like the parents can just tell them to keep still. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 1/16/2015 4:24 PM, stils...@netspace.net.au wrote: What a bright and cheery way to start the year. Was the cross added by family or could it be a mark made by the photographer for the touch-up artist? Maybe not, it looks more like a Christian cross than an X Either way, speaking as someone who has just spent a week dressing human forms filled with ballistics gel & latex (don't ask), it is possible to prop something human-shape in the way shown in the photograph. Loose clothing is the key. To be really morbid, could one of the kids be holding the boy's upper body up? Still, my vote on this one is vertical pole behind, probably using the belt to hold the bulk of the weight. Keeping the upper body from flopping over is the problem. It brought to mind the pic seen here: http://artsearch.nga.gov.au/Detail.cfm?IRN=40548 & http://bluerangestudio.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/Joe-Byrne-on-door-close-up-260x430.jpg & http://bluerangestudio.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/Joe-on-Door-side-view-300x217.jpg the body of Joe Byrne, member of outlaw Ned Kelly's gang, suspended for public viewing and for photographers on a police station door a day or two after death (late June, 1880. Cause of death, bullet wound, body then subjected to building fire). Aside to self: I wonder how "scholarly" we would be if the portrait of the child were a more recent pic., -C. - Original Message - From: "Historical Costume" To:"Historical Costume" Cc: Sent:Fri, 16 Jan 2015 12:11:23 -0500 Subject:Re: [h-cost] post-mortem photos It isn't impossible. Difficult, yes. But not impossible. As any EMT worker can tell you. Yes, it is difficult. But that's why you used things like stands, or straps. http://cabinetofcuriosities.ca/pictures-of-the-dead-the-truth-about-post-mortem-photography/ On Fri, Jan 16, 2015 at 7:08 AM, mhprobe...@gmail.com wrote: > This question made me curious because I've seen so many photos labeled PM > when I thought they weren't. And of course I stare with same morbid > curiosity as the next person (Thanatos?)! But standing poses - I don't > know. It's practically impossible to hold an unconscious person upright - I > know this - so imagine a corpse. To make the costume connection, it's also > difficult to dress one! > > Anyway, these links were the first to come up. Interesting. > > http://mourningportraits.blogspot.com/p/hoaxes-scams-ebay-optimism.html > > > http://www.pinterest.com/angelusmortis2/post-mortem-photography-no-you-dont-see-dead-peopl/ > > Melissa Roberts > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > -- http://dirtygirldesigns.wordpress.com/ http://www.etsy.com/shop/dirtygirldesigns ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] New York garment district
Is there a printed exhibit catalog? Fran Lavolta Press Books of historic clothing patterns www.lavoltapress.com On 1/15/2015 7:31 PM, Monica Spence wrote: The Met has an awesome show called "Death Becomes Her" Mourning clothes from 1800-1915or so. One of Queen Victoria's gowns is on display, and two from Alexandra, Edward's wife. You should not miss it. It is in the costume institute, below the Egyptian Exhibit. I believe the show runs until February. Monica -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Brenda Bell Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2015 9:11 AM To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: [h-cost] New York garment district AtMon, 01 Dec 2014 22:27:11 -0800, humbugfo...@att.net wrote: Also, I've checked the Met and FITM for costume exhibits and there doesn't seem to be anything particularly exciting on their schedules. Can anyone suggest any other museums or exhibitions that would have (historical) costumes on display? I'd check the People Center at the American Museum of Natural History for costumes of indigenous peoples. I might also check the Museum of the City of New York, the New York Historical Society, the Museum of Folk Art, and the American Crafts Museum to see if there will be any interesting exhibits. You might also check to see if you can do some specific study at the Met's Costume Institute, if there's something particular you wish to research. Brenda F. Bell webwar...@earthlink.net Support me in riding the 2015 Tour de Cure to Stop Diabetes! http://main.diabetes.org/goto/tmana ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Pomona Green: vote now!
My understanding is that it's a yellowish green, making the color in the middle link most accurate. At least on my monitor. Exclusive_silks is the same business as pure_silks on eBay; you might want to look at their listings too. For myself, I don't worry about not being able to find a solid fabric color, since I can always dye white or off-white fabric. See http://www.dharmatrading.com/dyes/dyes-for-dyeing-silk-wool-nylon.html?lnav=dyes.html Fran Lavolta Press Books of historic clothing patterns www.lavoltapress.com On 1/15/2015 1:19 PM, Hope Greenberg wrote: The color name "pomona green" appears throughout early 19th century fashion magazines. Fashion plates display women in pomona green gowns, or with pomona green accessories, and descriptions of the color usually refer to leaves or apples. First problem: the images depicted are showing a range of greens (understandable in that they are usually handpainted). Second problem: trying to find a green that matches any of the greens in that range is rather difficult in our current decade of very blue greens or very yellow/olive greens. Even the pantone color chart shows us that this range of greens doesn't seem to be in vogue. So, here's a challenge! Which of the three fabrics linked here would you place in the "closest to pomona green" category. I know, "none of them" or "you can't tell from an online picture" are both logical responses as is "just buy some and then decide"! But I'm hoping some of you will take a stab at this. And if anyone knows of another site that has the perfect pomona green in a lightweight silk taffeta (especially at these prices) oh my! I would love to know about it. :-) http://www.puresilks.us/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=4014 http://www.puresilks.us/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=2741 http://www.puresilks.us/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=2163 and this is the color I'm most in love with in an illustration: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/194991858836404282/ - Hope P.S. And my apologies for sending a question about greens amidst the discussion about post mortem photographs...(groan: ducking and running). ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] searching for a graphed pattern
I bought all the packets when they came out. They're somewhere around . . . They are not books, but sheets packaged in envelopes, so less likely to be in libraries than books would be. Libraries don't like publications that have a lot of separate pieces that can get lost. Fran Lavolta Press Books of historic clothing patterns www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Amazon Warriors, including what they wore
This looks like a solid book. My husband is interested in classical history and this one's all over the blogs. I asked him to give it to me for Christmas. http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2014/10/141029-amazons-scythians-hunger-games-herodotus-ice-princess-tattoo-cannabis/ Fran Lavolta Press Books of historic clothing patterns www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] pattern questions
Not very suitable. The issue is not the size, it's the garment shapes. The petticoat is for early 20th-century skirts, which were fuller than in the 1910s. The camisole is for the pouched bosom look of the early 20th century, which was gone by the 1910s. The 1910s drawers were also less full. See http://www.pastpatterns.com/1900.html for some pattern shapes with dates. Fran Lavolta Press Books of historic clothing patterns www.lavoltapress.com On 11/2/2014 10:13 AM, llwa...@juno.com wrote: I have two questions about the Folkwear "Edwardian Underthings" pattern for anyone who's used it: 1) How accurate would it be for the World War I era? 2) I know they say it goes to 3XL, but given Folkwear's habit of sizing things small I'm not counting on the pattern being usable straight out of the package -- how easy to resize is it? Thanks. Leah ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] any must-see exhibits in Dec or Jan?
My husband has years-old frequent flyer points that he keeps active by occasionally buying a book at Barnes & Noble online (specifically). You might see whether your frequent flyer account enables you to buy something at a certain store, etc., to keep your points. Fran Lavolta Press Books on historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com On 10/24/2014 10:25 AM, Charlene C wrote: I need to fly somewhere in December or January to keep my frequent flyer points active (apparently I've been using my husband's points too much). Therefore, I now have an excuse to go someplace in the continental US. Are there any must-see museum exhibits you'd recommend? [Or any other events, shows, points of interest, etc.; feel free to send to me off-list.] Thanks! --Charlene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] re wardrobe size, middle class
Sounds like you are looking at the lower middle class. As for parties, everybody had them, at least on holidays, weddings, and other special occasions. The issue is how fancy the parties were. Note that judging from period fiction, women of the Victorian lower and middle-middle classes were often financially anxious. Unmarried women had few alternatives but to marry, but not all that many opportunities. Until they were "settled," they had to strive to look as good as possible and attend as many parties as possible, even on a small budget. They also had to work to acquire "accomplishments," such as singing, dancing, and playing the piano, to be more popular at parties and more attractive to potential husbands. If they were widowed, the anxiety started all over again, unless their husband had left them a comfortable amount of money. If they were matrons, they had to worry about marrying off their daughters. Even grandmothers, aunts, married older sisters, and family friends lent a hand. Women put an incredible amount of effort into achieving marriages for themselves and their relatives. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 10/12/2014 10:51 AM, Cascio Michael wrote: Hi All, I've given some thought as to how I would describe middle class for my research project since you're all correct in that middle class covers a wide range. I'm looking at people who had enough that they could grow or purchase enough food to not worry about having food, farm families would be included since even if the women didn't work outside the home as in more recent centuries they definitely contributed, maybe afford to throw the occasional gathering or party and had a special outfit or two for funerals or special occasions such as holidays. I'm thinking yeoman or burgher class for earlier centuries. People with enough not to feel threatened financially on a daily basis but not so much that the adults were idle. I hope I'm making sense. And on a another note I just saw Lizzie Borden Took an Axe with Christine Ricci in it and the outfit she's wearing through most of the movie's day of the murder just seems wrong to me. Is it supposed to be an underdress because it's hot or a housedress or a fantasy? Cassandra ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] wardrobe size
And for the 19th and 20th centuries, manuals of wardrobe advice and articles about it in fashion magazines. Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com On 10/8/2014 7:27 PM, Heather Rose Jones wrote: Wills are often a great place to research this type of question. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] wardrobe size
What's middle class? For example, in the Victorian era this included people who were just barely managing to keep up a middle-class appearance, and an upper middle class that could be quite affluent. Fran Lavolta Press Books on historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com On 10/8/2014 4:16 PM, Cascio Michael wrote: Hello, I'm trying to look into the size of the average middle-class woman's wardrobe through the centuries. Finding advice on the trousseau is easier, at least after the advent of ladies' magazines but I'm most interested in how many dresses a middle class woman would own. How common was the one dress for every day and one for Sunday with a multitude of aprons? Do women start having more dresses after the advent of cheap cotton? Since the list covers a large span of history I'm hoping for answers from many centuries. Cassandra ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Barge's cement
When gluing anything to anything else, you want the optimal glue to stick those specific two substances together, AND strong enough for the uses to which it is to be put. I've used Barge cement to glue leather to leather, with no respirator, gloves, or panic. I'm still alive and well. It's not very strong in my experience, though. Also in my experience, most white glues are optimized for wood and paper. See the following website for advice on glues: http://www.thistothat.com/ Fran Lavolta Press Books on historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com On 8/31/2014 11:33 PM, Marjorie Wilser wrote: So I have a repair project which is only marginally costume-y. However. It is a cheapie modern trunk made to look old with vinyl trim. The trim is stitched and then glued down. Yeah. Right. But it’s coming up all over and looks horrible. I still like the little trunk and want to make it shipshape again. In examining the offerings on Amazon, I find (link below) http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=barge%27s+cement Too many packages to make an intelligent choice from. All claim to be Barge’s cement. So, users of Barge’s for shoemaking and other wonders— which is my best bet, please? Many thanks! ==Marjorie Wilser ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] slashing fabric
If I recall, fish glue was sometimes applied to the slashed edges, or alternatively they were overcast. Fabric cut on the bias *does* fray and stretch. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 7/23/2014 12:09 PM, Cherylyn Crill wrote: There were also a variety of agents that could have been applied to cut edges that would have acted as glue, preventing fraying. ~Cherylyn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Ancient Sythian day spas
Thought this might be of interest--ancient Sythian day spas. http://www.wondersandmarvels.com/2012/09/beauty-secrets-of-the-ancient-amazons.html Fran Lavolta Press Books of historic clothing patterns www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] New Book!
I just ordered it, I have been waiting for it to come out. Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com On 1/31/2014 5:45 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: I am pleased to announce that Susan Greene's book, "Wearable Prints, 1760-1860," is finally out! It is published by Kent University Press and is available discounted on Amazon. For those of you who don't know Susan, she has been working on this project for years, and I am glad to see it finally come to fruition. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Loot-n-Booty Report, 2013
Costume-related gifts I received from my husband: A year of 1916 La Mode Illustree with the pattern sheets The book Textiles, the Art of Mankind, by Mary Schoeser Another book, Jacques Henri Lartigue: The Invention of an Artist, by Kevin Moore Three identical crewel-embroidered shawls from Heritage Trading to make a Regency dress And my gift to myself, a whole wad of 1908 La Mode Illustree with the pattern sheets Fran Lavolta Press Books of historic clothing patterns www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Historic costuming books
Because the holiday season is coming up, I thought people might want to be reminded about my books on making 19th- and early 20th-century clothing. Details are at www.lavoltapress.com and many online bookstores. Thanks! Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re the 15th-century undergarments
Someone pointed me to a couple of blog posts where people are making reconstructions: http://renikasanachronisticadventures.blogspot.se/search/label/Lengberg http://deventerburgerscap.blogspot.se/2013/04/making-my-bra-shirt-part-ii.html As for the rest, I do hope NESAT does get around to publishing their XI proceedings at the end of this year. Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Where is publication of NESAT XI research?
This is one of the many popular-audience articles that appeared on the discovery of some 15th-century brassieres: http://ajw.asahi.com/article/behind_news/social_affairs/AJ201211140001 I heard that a paper would be presented on these brassieres at NESAT XI, which happened in 2011. I have been eagerly waiting its publication, presumably in the anthology of NESAT papers. But I cannot find such an anthology for NESAT XI, including on the NESAT website, though I may be missing something since I can't read German. Does anyone know if this research has been published and if so where I can find it? Thanks, Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] names for velvets...
"Doux" also means "soft," but here it seems to be a brand name/manufacturer's label rather than a type of fabric. Velvet is a weave. You *can* weave velvets from any fiber, though some fibers are more attractive than others, and some velvets are significantly more available and/or affordable than others. If you want to make clothes, make sure you are not getting upholstery weight velvet, which can be very heavy indeed, except maybe for a small garment like a vest. All the linen velvet (velvet weave, linen fiber) that I have seen has been upholstery velvet. If you find any garment weight linen velvet, please post the source and I'll go buy some! Cotton velvet may commonly be either garment or upholstery weight, but if it's from a home-dec store it's probably upholstery weight. On housefabric.com, with the velvets labeled "Flanders," "Nevada," etc., those are just brand names/manufacturer's labels, not standard fabric names. When you are buying garment-weight velvet, make sure it's not a stretch velvet unless you want stretch. Fran Frances Grimble Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com On 9/13/2013 1:57 PM, Patricia Dunham wrote: my steam-punker has been attracted recently by victorian velvet outfits from the "OMG that dress" site, so he's been looking on-line at velvets. we have hit a term we can't find a real definition for. does anyone know what is meant by "doux cotton velvet". "doux" literally means "sweet". some of the descriptions say "100% cotton", which indicates warp, weft and PILE all of cotton. we have also run across descriptions of linen velvet, and mohair velvet! both the cotton and linen velvet appear to run around $17/yard; 54-56" width -- oh, the linen is on 66% sale, usually more like $50/yd! flanders velvet, housefabric.com, 63% cotton, currently on sale $10/54" yd... well, enough dithering, he can pull up examples faster than I can transcribe them, 8-) so... doux cotton velvet, linen velvet, flanders velvet... any definitions? thx much chimene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Wall calendars
Has anyone found any good (preferably pre-1930) costume related wall calendars for 2014? Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Nazi propaganda photos of occupied Paris in World War 2
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2417335/Paris-Nazi-lens-Propaganda-images-occupied-French-capital-citizens-thriving-German-rule.html ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Costume Society of America--free newsletter subscription
The Costume Society of America is offering free electronic newsletter subscriptions to non-members. The newsletter contains information about current and future museum exhibits, new books, events, museum jobs, and similar topics. To subscribe, contact the newsletter editor at e-n...@costumesocietyamerica.com. Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com <http://www.lavoltapress.com> www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Review of The White Queen
Very amusing review of "The White Queen," including the costumes: http://www.sfgate.com/default/article/White-Queen-review-Royally-entertaining-romp-4717571.php Fran Lavolta Press Books of historic clothing patterns www.lavoltapress.com www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Period Hair, and Accessories
On 7/31/2013 2:11 PM, R Lloyd Mitchell wrote: An interesting Costume item from the OED, Costume is the whole experience of mind and body...Appearance is only a small part of being 'in costume'. The way you stand, walk, sit, what you are thinking about...all this is necessary to pull yourself backward to Be in the times of your dress! Hair, nails, shoes, hatted or not, props...all is necessary to be truely in Costume! Well, if we are snarking, one of my pet peeves is the actresses in period productions who habitually walk as if they were trying to beat the traffic light in a New York intersection, who swing their arms wildly, or who have to constantly make little scrunchy faces at the camera. Fran Lavolta Press Books on historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] BBC article on 16th-century fashion book
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-22766029 Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Wedding in 1882
Early in 1882 she was probably wearing a dress with only a small bustle (the "natural form" era), though late in 1882 it would have been a larger bustle. She had on either a polonaise (long tunic) over a skirt, or a bodice/overskirt/skirt ensemble. Either the polonaise or the overskirt likely provided the back drapery. Her dress probably had a high day neckline and 3/4 or full length sleeves, but might well have had detachable parts (a front gilet, and lower sleeves) to turn it into a lower-necked, shorter-sleeved evening dress, especially if it was an expensive dress. Wedding dresses were often worn as evening dresses after the wedding, if the bride expected to attend many social events. Other than that, there's not enough detail to go on. The dress was likely off-white, but might have been colored, if it were to be used later as a day dress by a bride who did not expect to attend many evening events. As for the mother-in-law, a shiny fabric (satin) and glittering jewels (diamonds) were not mourning. You might be interested in my book Fashions of the Gilded Age, which contains patterns, images, and descriptions of wedding dresses in Volume 2. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 6/19/2013 7:38 PM, Cathy Raitt wrote: On a recent trip "home" I found a letter written by my great grandmother to her sister describing her daughter's wedding, which I have been trying to transcribe. The wedding took place at home and the bride's attire was described as a "simple costume."Her veil was described, but not the dress itself. This is what I've been able to figure out so far. (Some of the words might not be exactly right - I'm still deciphering the handwriting!) "The pure white --- veiling(?) trimmedwith many rows of lace and with drapery of white watered ribbon at the back was very pretty. The veil a large square of tulle fell a little over her face and was caught on one side of the head by a cluster of natural white roses. Anotherbunch at the left side of the neck among the laces and a third larger upon the skirts holding the veils back a little. Black stockings & slippers and long white gloves made up the t ensemble. The only ornaments were a beautiful Silver comb & earrings sent her by Cousin..." What would this dress have looked like? We haven't been able to find any pictures that could be this gown. She comments that the groom's mother looked "uncommonly well in black satin & lace. Some beautiful diamonds at her throat." Was it normal to wear black to a wedding? How long would someone wear mourning for a son? (The groom's brother had died in 1875.) Thanks! Cathy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Multiple machines
The Bernina 1008 is a solid, no-frills workhorse. The sewing machine store tried to upsell me a fancier model of Bernina on the grounds that those make better buttonholes, but since I was having the Viking restored I stuck with my choice of the 1008. No machine is perfect, but I still have a case of accumulitis, thinking about all the machines I could have bought and thinking another one wouldn't hurt . . . Fran Lavolta Press Books on historic sewing www.lavoltapress.com On 4/2/2013 8:24 PM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: My new Bernina 1008 makes cruddy buttonholes, I'm surprised your Bernina makes cruddy buttonholes. I wonder if they've changed how it works. One reason I wanted a Bernina was their reputation for good buttonholes. They were at that time the only machine that did the zigzag of both sides forward, instead of going down one side and up the other--that is accomplished by going up the other side with a straight stitch and then coming down with a zigzag. Mine also has a optical buttonholer so, once I make one, all the others match exactly. But that feature, of course, was possible with the buttonhole attachment. My old Kenmore has a buttonhole attachment, but it isn't the kind with the drop-in cams, so I'm limited to 5 sizes. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Multiple machines
I still keeping thinking about getting an embroidery-sewing machine, and if I did, I would probably leave it set up for embroidery and use my Bernina for sewing. However, I have been hesitating for a long time because machine embroidery is a whole new craft and I want to make sure I am committed enough for the machine to be worth the substantial investment. When I was shopping for a workhorse machine, I didn't really investigate buttonholing closely. My new Bernina 1008 makes cruddy buttonholes, which is acceptable because my old Viking 400 makes sort-of-OK buttonholes. But I find myself really longing for the great buttonholes made by a Greist or Singer attachment on my long-departed Sears Kenmore. Somewhere along the line I disposed of its buttonhole attachment but plenty of similar vintage ones are available. Are the buttonholes on the high-end embroidery machines like the Husqvarna Designer Diamond really good, or--an alternative--should I buy a cheap vintage Kenmore or some other old machine and a buttonhole attachment? I ran into someone who did that; they just use their $15, vintage thrift-store machine exclusively for buttonholes. Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] what is everyone working on?
On 4/1/2013 8:13 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: I forgot about the post-apocalypse! And I thought I knew all the excuses for having a fabric stash! Fran Lavolta Press Books of historic clothing patterns www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] what is everyone working on?
I love my Bernina, but the Viking is also pretty good, now that it has been restored to like-new condition. For years I thought having two machines was unnecessary, but that was when there were more good local repair places that could fix a machine in only a few days. I originally planned to sell the Viking. But when I discovered the really good repair place I finally found was so popular there was a one-month wait, I realized I need two machines now. Even if the Bernina chugs happily along for years, having the backup machine makes me feel more secure. Fran Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com On 3/31/2013 5:32 PM, Kim Baird wrote: 2 sewing machines are the minimum number a real sewer need. And Bernina is cream of the crop! Kim ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] what is everyone working on?
I've always done a lot of hand hemming and hand finishing, but lately I am having a hard time not hand sewing. I started hand sewing everything when my Viking's straight stitch went wonky. There was a period of two or three months where I took it to repair places who did not fix it properly. In the meantime I was doing hand sewing exclusively. Then I replaced the Viking with my Bernina and furthermore, found a great repair place that fixed the Viking like new, meaning I now have two sewing machines in great working order. And I'm still wanting to hand seam everything. I just got into it. Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com On 3/31/2013 4:45 PM, Marjorie Wilser wrote: Finally finished hemming a neck kerchief for my colonial. That's one long hem, but I insisted on doing a hand hem. == Marjorie Wilser =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:= http://3toad.blogspot.com/ "Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] what is everyone working on?
In my lifelong effort to find something that looks pre-1930 to wear when that is not in style, Victorian/Edwardian and medieval-inspired lagenlook and daytime (watered-down) steampunk. Also I have really gotten into using Japanese sewing pattern books. Fran Lavolta Press Books of historic clothing patterns www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Polyester is the great new fiber
The Wall Street Journal says so! http://online.wsj.com/article/SB120430818244003421.html?mod=slideshow_overlay_mod Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press)
Whenever you make something you are transforming the materials into something else. As for what eras should be remodeled, durability is a key issue. This is affected not only by the age of the materials but the fiber, how thin/thick they are, how they were stored (for example with moth repellant or not, in the dark or not), how they were prepared for sale (for example soaked in chlorine bleach or not), and other factors. I have no idea how purist anyone wants to get about the age (and it's easy to dictate an age if you never do it anyway), but many of the things people are going to get really agitated about cutting up or wearing aren't durable enough to be worth the effort. And/or they are too expensive on today's market. Somethings you can't easily buy or even get the look of today, such as handmade lace. And handmade linen bobbin lace is often quite durable. Fran Lavolta Press Books on historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com On 3/30/2013 10:41 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: Costumers ARE consumers! Somebody or something is going to be wearing the product, right? Even if it is made for display on a mannequin, that is consumption. And re-making something isn't destroying it. But I don't collect vintage or antiques clothing or textiles, either. I just admire others'. I'm strictly making period style things from modern materials. I have been known to buy 1950s and 1960s era things from thrift stores, though, and altering them to fit to wear for costume. So, how far do we go? 1950s? 1040s? 1920s? Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Marjorie Wilser To: Historical Costume Sent: Sat, Mar 30, 2013 11:19 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press) And here I thought this list was for *costumers* and not consumers and destroyers. == Marjorie Wilser On Mar 30, 2013, at 7:40 AM, Lavolta Press wrote: But apparently you don't even collect antique textiles yourself. You are certainly welcome to do so, but are in no position to dictate to others regarding it. Rather than taking that dress in or out, why not check out the seam lines and see if you can recreate a pattern from it? Because I don't want to. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press)
On 3/30/2013 4:44 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: Fran and I don't always see eye to eye. But I have to agree with her on this one. Sounds like these tunics/shifts, which started the discussion, exist in great numbers. Let us hope someone, somewhere, has saved a couple, along with their provenance (if they were indeed worn at institutions, or whatever). For the rest, well, we can't save EVERYTHING. If we did, we would be covered with mountains of stuff. I am intrigued by these because in 40 years, I have never seen anything like them (this sturdy) from American, UK, or Canadian dealers. French dealers seem to accept them as common and sometimes call them "rustic." Maybe, but then the French lower classes, rural or perhaps urban, were willing to sacrifice comfort for extreme durability more than the Americans or British. I have not seen any from other European countries, but then, the vast majority of dealers I see on English-speakingwebsites are naturally from English-speaking countries. They are all cut with the selvage across the hem of the bottom (except sometimes the side gores) and any sleeves (many are sleeveless) and there is no hem there, just the selvage. I also see men's shirts made from the same fabric, but I have not bought any. Fran Lavolta Press Books on historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com . ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press)
Also, in the Victorian age, they loved doing exactly what you are doing - taking antique dresses and outfits > to wear to fancy balls. Do you have any idea how many we lost during that time period? How many not only > Rococo but Elizabethan outfits? Just because someone wanted to look pretty and was incapable of thinking > about the historic value of the item in their hands. And that is one of the things I love about the Victorian era. I love reading about people in the late 1870s and early 1880s remodeling men's 18th-century vests for dresses. >Not only are you doing this yourself, but encouraging others to do this as well - which is where my outrage is coming from. I've > seen plenty of people post something to ebay/etsy/pick your favorite online flea market that they had no idea what it was. By > encourage others to do what you do to create a t-tunic - beginners garb for most Medieval groups- you are encouraging people who have little knowledge on the subject of historical textiles to rip apart something that may be very valuable. Apparently, you don't have the slightest idea what is valuable on the vintage market and what is not. Perhaps you should do some research before you express outrage. > That supposed 19th C chemise may actually be 17th C. Since I have been studying and collecting textiles for over 40 years, I do know the difference. > You may not consider yourself a "custodian" of historical wears but we all are. But apparently you don't even collect antique textiles yourself. You are certainly welcome to do so, but are in no position to dictate to others regarding it. > Rather than taking that dress in or out, why not check out the seam lines and see if you can recreate a pattern from it? Because I don't want to. >As for the items being yours - well, the old house was your parents', right? I highly doubt they were allowed to do whatever they pleased with it. Of course they were allowed to do whatever they pleased with it. You are under a major misconception that every older house is under historic protection. There are a great many of them around and the vast majority are not. The only thing the owners have to conform to is local zoning relations and the building code. Everybody remodels and upgrades older homes all the time. Check your local real estate section for the ads for older homes and what the realtors say has been done to them. >I know you won't listen, Fran. I've been on this list long enough to know that. Well, naturally, I don't regulate my life by the advice of a perfect stranger who doesn't have a clue what she is talking about. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press)
I fail to see how it's any of your business. Fran On 3/29/2013 10:45 PM, Marjorie Wilser wrote: Dear Isabella, Likewise. I am sure. Brava! for saying so out loud. == Marjorie Wilser On Mar 29, 2013, at 1:25 PM, . . wrote: I am HORRIFIED at the idea of using an antique piece of our cultural history as something to wear; let alone cut it and dye it! Would you buy a slightly rundown Victorian house and tear it up to sell off the pieces and remake it into a modern home? Of course not! Most countries now have regulations to protect these homes as part of our cultural heritage. It's sad that we do not have similar laws to protect against the destruction of antiquities as is being described here. I'm completly revolted at the idea of tearing up a garmet that is not shreaded, not in rags, just to make a t-tunic? You can make a t-tunic out of good old linen for far less than $40 if watch for coupons and stash reduction sales. There is no reason whatsoever to destroy a piece of history just to get something to wear. -Isabella ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press)
Unless you are buying direct from an estate auction where everything's been untouched in the attic for decades and nothing has been prepared for sale except to throw it in a box lot, you're not seeing most garments in their original state anyway. Dirty rags don't sell well. Dealers take anything salvageable off badly damaged garments and throw the rest out. They not only clean and mend others, and replace buttons: They often dye stained items. They alter waistlines to fit the modern figure where at all possible. They cut off damaged parts to do things like make a petticoat much shorter or turn a nightgown into a blouse. If white dresses with empire waists are in style, they sew a petticoat onto a crocheted yoke. I've been seeing a bunch of those on eBay lately. If knee-length skirts gathered all around are in style, they shorten petticoats and redistribute the gathering all around. I've been seeing a lot of those on eBay too. They turn chemises into camisoles, which people are more likely to wear--I see a lot of those alterations. If heavily trimmed drawers are in style, they add trimming to plainer ones. Dealers do whatever it takes to give a garment rack appeal to someone who wants to wear it and who will pay the highest price obtainable. You are often not getting a pristine historical item, and almost never one with any provenance. Vintage jewelry dealers (at least the higher end ones) commonly restring pearls and beads and replace clasps. With other items it depends. But, for example, I see Edwardian sash pins made into not only belt buckles but statement necklaces. I adore Art Nouveau sash pins, but they are not very wearable in modern life and it can be preferable to have a necklace you will wear than a sash pin you will not. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 3/29/2013 7:52 PM, Sybella wrote: Never mind. I give up. LOL! Maggie, I love the Bake King glass baking dishes for the philbe and sapphire design. And I do use them. I'm sure I'd like your mother's depression glass but it's usually delicate, which makes me nervous. :) 'Bella On Fri, Mar 29, 2013 at 7:31 PM, Lavolta Press wrote: People are entitled to preserve their own items for any aesthetic or sentimental reason they want. I certainly have things I think are beautiful that I would not alter for style (at least not right now), but that is different from being a custodian of history, let alone a custodian of someone else's stuff, and different from thinking everything old is precious and should be inviolable. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 3/29/2013 7:22 PM, Sybella wrote: Yeee!! Maggie's got it!! :) Though, I do use my vintage gold and silver hat pins, jewelry, hair combs, etc. they will never be altered while I own them. Their history is an important part of why I adore them so much. I have a few vintage hats that I have considered hand-sewing some vintage bobbles to but I'm having a hard time convincing myself that it's okay to alter them. One time I hurt my finger and had to get a ring off quick because my finger was swelling. You should have seen me stressing about cutting it off! It was comical! The inside is inscribed "10 29 1895-1945" because it was someone's 50 year anniversary ring at one time. The people that were with me were looking at me funny because I couldn't bring myself cut the center middle. "What are you doing?!!?" they were saying, "You don't cut a ring toward the front!" All the while, I was just hoping I would miss the inscription. Finger, be damned! LOL! Clothing, household textiles and whatnot, I don't have that same problem with. I do buy linen at thrift stores just to harvest the fabric for other projects. 'Bella __**_ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/**listinfo/h-costume<http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume> ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press)
People are entitled to preserve their own items for any aesthetic or sentimental reason they want. I certainly have things I think are beautiful that I would not alter for style (at least not right now), but that is different from being a custodian of history, let alone a custodian of someone else's stuff, and different from thinking everything old is precious and should be inviolable. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 3/29/2013 7:22 PM, Sybella wrote: Yeee!! Maggie's got it!! :) Though, I do use my vintage gold and silver hat pins, jewelry, hair combs, etc. they will never be altered while I own them. Their history is an important part of why I adore them so much. I have a few vintage hats that I have considered hand-sewing some vintage bobbles to but I'm having a hard time convincing myself that it's okay to alter them. One time I hurt my finger and had to get a ring off quick because my finger was swelling. You should have seen me stressing about cutting it off! It was comical! The inside is inscribed "10 29 1895-1945" because it was someone's 50 year anniversary ring at one time. The people that were with me were looking at me funny because I couldn't bring myself cut the center middle. "What are you doing?!!?" they were saying, "You don't cut a ring toward the front!" All the while, I was just hoping I would miss the inscription. Finger, be damned! LOL! Clothing, household textiles and whatnot, I don't have that same problem with. I do buy linen at thrift stores just to harvest the fabric for other projects. 'Bella ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Reusing antiques, was: Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press)
But you never know what you have in the attic. Her rags could be a rare example that could be conserved, preserved and displayed. Then again, maybe not. My father bought me a fair number of auction lots of clothes at rural estate auctions. I threw many of them out immediately (especially the woolens which were usually moth-riddled). Some fell apart while I cleaned them and I threw those out. After, of course, removing any salvageable laces and buttons. The vast majority of stuff available to the average person is hardly rare. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press)
I buy garments close to my size and sure, I hem them, let them out, take them in, whatever is needed. As for the components issue, it depends on: * Whether I like the style/bought the garment to wear in that style * Whether the fiber is sturdy enough to warrant reuse * Whether the fabric is unique enough to warrant reuse * Whether the price is low enough to warrant reuse * Whether the item is actually suitable for making into a garment. For example, tablecloths with very large patterns are more problematic than ones with smaller patterns Although I've altered plenty of pre-1930 silk dresses to wear, I don't reuse silks of that era for other projects because they are not sturdy enough to work with. If it's a plain silk, I can often buy a modern silk that looks similar and which is sturdy enough to work with. I like buying hand-embroidered and intricately tucked cottons and linens (usually in the form of home textiles or lingerie) because there is all that decoration to use, which would be time-consuming to duplicate. But, I often see petticoats at $250 and almost identical ones at $25, both in great condition. I don't buy the $250 ones for any purpose; why should I? I know items I dye may fall apart in the process and if they go, they go. I know old lace may be fragile and if a seller misleads me, and I tug on it and it rips, into the garbage can it goes. What I am saying is my decisions about what to cut up and what not are based on practicality. They are not based on any feeling that things are terribly precious, historic, etc. or that I am obliged to be a custodian. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 3/29/2013 6:54 PM, Maggie Koenig wrote: Fran, I think what is being asked is are there antique items of any kind that you won't mess with. For example, my mom's antique cups and saucers that she collected were never used. However, we did use the antique depression glass that she collected on a daily basis. Personally, I won't take apart a textile to use its components. However I will use vintage ribbon and trims on reproduction items that won't get heavy use. I don't wear vintage clothing at all which is fine since I'm a little fluffy for it. Maggie Koenig. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press)
Absolutely no item that belongs to anyone else is sacred to me. It's not my business to decide that for other people. My collection and my wardrobe freely overlap. I bought everything I own with the possibility of wearing it someday, even if only on rare occasions. Otherwise I would not enjoy it. I don't have room to display clothes and for me there's no point in acquiring things that just sit around in a closet or chest for decades. What I wear and don't wear changes over time, depending on the occasions I have to wear things and on whatever vintage styles may currently be in fashion. I have pulled out garments I wasn't wearing to dye or to cut up. I've put away other garments, most merely because I currently have no occasion to wear them. It's whatever I need and want at the moment. I don't make a permanent decision never to wear or alter anything. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 3/29/2013 6:36 PM, Sybella wrote: Oh no...please don't feel I'm putting you in the place to defend yourself. I'm not judging you, Fran. I agree that people can do what they want with what they own but there are a few things that I wish people would leave alone. (The Wittelsbach Diamond, for example -- 400 years went down the toilet in 2011.) However, those that have responded to this thread seem to fall in different areas of a save or reuse spectrum. I find that interesting! Compared to Isabella's outrage, you're on the other extreme. I'm just curious if there is anything "sacred" to you, any certain item that should be saved, not reused or recycled. If so, what is it?? ;) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic
I like Fortuny but I think his simpler styles, while elegant, are
somewhat overrated. There is a European label called Cocoon
Commerz/Privatsachen that makes crinkle silk dresses and tunics rather
like Fortuny, in a variety of colors that change from season to season.
You can buy one on eBay for two or three hundred dollars, which may be
pricey but it's a lot cheaper than a vintage Fortuny. They are
probably actually made in India for a depressingly low price.
Fran
On 3/29/2013 6:21 PM, A. Thurman wrote:
I too am torn between the Indiana Jones impulse ("It belongs in a
museum!") and realizing that clothes are ultimately made to be worn.
For example, much as I revere Fortuny gowns as the artworks that they
are, I can't say I wouldn't be tempted to wear one if given the
opportunity (after showering thoroughly and having a vintage textile
conservator lined up to take the gown off my hands once I'm out of
it).
Re: vintage: there's something to be said for older clothing, in that
often I find anything from the 1950s or earlier seems to be so much
better made. If it's lasted this long, why NOT wear it?
Allison T.
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Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press)
Sorry, I meant it's not other people's business to criticize it. For me, one issue is how I feel about the item aesthetically, which is a personal judgement. There is some mega-ugly antique jewelry out there, for example. Of course, someone else might like it, but if it were mine, their liking something I hated would do me no good. Fran On 3/29/2013 6:10 PM, Lavolta Press wrote: What I am saying is the do-not-cross line is strictly up to the owner of the item. The families wealthy enough to have "family jewels" have traditionally often reset them to current styles and sometimes, recut stones with new techniques. The 18th-century diamond necklace might be lovely, and so is the Victorian one later made from the same diamonds, and so is the Art Deco one even later made from the same diamonds. It's other people's business to criticize the owners for their goal of having stylish jewelry to wear now instead of unstylish jewelry preserved in a vault. And it's useless. Everyone on this list can get together in a committee and decide no one should ever alter any jewelry set after 1920, or whatever, and the owners will go right ahead and do it. I doubt I'm ever going to have to face that particular issue personally, but if someone ever gives me a whopping diamond necklace in a style I don't like, I will certainly feel free to have it reset in a style I do like. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 3/29/2013 5:51 PM, Sybella wrote: Ha. Wicked, wicked woman!! Hands off my precious!!! LOL! (When my eyeballs popped out of my head, my dogs thought they were new toys and didn't want to give them back.) Fran, isn't there something you are partial to?? It can't be all materials to reuse. You already know my weakness. I don't want anyone messing with old fine jewelry. Come on...fess up. There's got to be something old with a do-not-cross line. 'Bella On Fri, Mar 29, 2013 at 4:47 PM, Lavolta Press wrote: Your mother will never notice if you mail all those embroidered linens to me. Trust me. Here's my address! And if I owned a huge historic diamond and wanted to wear it, I'd certainly consider having it recut. If you've got any diamonds around the house, send those along too. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press)
What I am saying is the do-not-cross line is strictly up to the owner of the item. The families wealthy enough to have "family jewels" have traditionally often reset them to current styles and sometimes, recut stones with new techniques. The 18th-century diamond necklace might be lovely, and so is the Victorian one later made from the same diamonds, and so is the Art Deco one even later made from the same diamonds. It's other people's business to criticize the owners for their goal of having stylish jewelry to wear now instead of unstylish jewelry preserved in a vault. And it's useless. Everyone on this list can get together in a committee and decide no one should ever alter any jewelry set after 1920, or whatever, and the owners will go right ahead and do it. I doubt I'm ever going to have to face that particular issue personally, but if someone ever gives me a whopping diamond necklace in a style I don't like, I will certainly feel free to have it reset in a style I do like. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 3/29/2013 5:51 PM, Sybella wrote: Ha. Wicked, wicked woman!! Hands off my precious!!! LOL! (When my eyeballs popped out of my head, my dogs thought they were new toys and didn't want to give them back.) Fran, isn't there something you are partial to?? It can't be all materials to reuse. You already know my weakness. I don't want anyone messing with old fine jewelry. Come on...fess up. There's got to be something old with a do-not-cross line. 'Bella On Fri, Mar 29, 2013 at 4:47 PM, Lavolta Press wrote: Your mother will never notice if you mail all those embroidered linens to me. Trust me. Here's my address! And if I owned a huge historic diamond and wanted to wear it, I'd certainly consider having it recut. If you've got any diamonds around the house, send those along too. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press)
Your mother will never notice if you mail all those embroidered linens to me. Trust me. Here's my address! Seriously, hand-embroidered linens are far from rare on eBay. You can buy oodles of embroidered pillow cases, table/dresser runners (great for camisoles, blouses, skirt borders, and other things), tablecloths (great for skirts), not to mention crocheted doilies (which can be hard to use, but they are good for lace patchwork). Plain linen tablecloths are a costumer favorite for getting cheap linen fabric to make into clothes. The late 19th-century and early 20th-century chemises I spoke of are all over the place. The minute I bought the four for $40 (which just arrived in today's mail, and they are great), the seller contacted me to offer me another four. There are oodles of eyelet-trimmed petticoats around too, and if they are sturdy they dye up nicely for skirts, and if not, the eyelet ruffles are often useful for trimming other garments. I am currently adding one to the bottom of a chemise, having dyed the eyelet in the same batch. Most museums receive public funding to preserve artifacts. I don't. That's not my mission in life. Everyone is welcome to make their own decisions regarding their own property--I certainly have some items in my collection I would not cut up. But, I haven't saved every garment I've owned in my life for posterity, either, and everything I make from vintage textiles is also part of history. Maybe someone will someday display part of it is "early 21st-century upcycling." Who knows. And if I owned a huge historic diamond and wanted to wear it, I'd certainly consider having it recut. If you've got any diamonds around the house, send those along too. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com On 3/29/2013 4:26 PM, Sybella wrote: Ha. I'm with Fran on this one. If we saved every vintage textile we found, we could fill a warehouse...and it would all just sit there. What would be the point? Mom has boxes and boxes of vintage embroidered sheets, pillow cases, dish towels, table clothes, etc. Since she wants to "save" them, we don't use for them. Frankly, I'm sick of trying to live with boxes, lugging them around to get to other things, and endlessly moving "useless" stuff around the house. If I could do it without Mom noticing and getting ticked off, I'd start mailing it all to Fran. LOL! That said, I also understand where Isabella is coming from because I HATE it when people take a piece of vintage jewelry and destroy it by tweaking it into something modern. I find stuff on eBay all the time that just blows my mind. I cry when I read about someone who bought an historic diamond then had it recut. If it used to be in a royal crown and can be seen in portraits from hundreds of years ago, leave it alone! Man, oh man, I want to smack some people!! Things like that can never be replaced. But really, linen tunics?? Eh, they're nothing special. It's the rare stuff, especially things that have significant history, presses my buttons. 'Bella ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press)
I've been a vintage clothing collector since I was 16. I've always worn items from my collection. I've always altered them for size, and in any and every other way I felt like. Lately, I have been been buying a lot of chemises and petticoats to dye and alter, transforming embroidered linens into clothes, and so on. When I was five, my parents bought a house that was built in 1860 and pristine, untouched, except for paint jobs (still in the original colors of white with green shutters). I am one of the few members of my generation with an intimate knowledge of what it's like to plunk my bottom on an icy privy seat in the middle of winter. Believe me, that house was vastly improved by the installation of modern central heating and plumbing. Termite extermination was nice too. Oh, and a covered well with an electric pump? And a septic tank? Definitely. No doubt, if the house had been a museum, there might have been regulations against changing it. But it was a private residence. Likewise, the clothing I buy is mine, not part of a museum. I am entitled to do whatever I want with it, have always done so, and will continue to do so. Obviously, if you have a clothing collection you may do whatever you wish with your own property--just as I do. Fran Lavolta Press Books on historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com On 3/29/2013 1:25 PM, . . wrote: I am HORRIFIED at the idea of using an antique piece of our cultural history as something to wear; let alone cut it and dye it! Would you buy a slightly rundown Victorian house and tear it up to sell off the pieces and remake it into a modern home? Of course not! Most countries now have regulations to protect these homes as part of our cultural heritage. It's sad that we do not have similar laws to protect against the destruction of antiquities as is being described here. I'm completly revolted at the idea of tearing up a garmet that is not shreaded, not in rags, just to make a t-tunic? You can make a t-tunic out of good old linen for far less than $40 if watch for coupons and stash reduction sales. There is no reason whatsoever to destroy a piece of history just to get something to wear. -Isabella Today's Topics: 1. Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press) -- Message: 1 Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2013 16:00:45 -0700 From: Lavolta Press To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic Message-ID: <5154cb9d.8050...@lavoltapress.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Really easy way to get a handsewn T-tunic: Buy one of the heavy French linen chemises regularly sold by sellers on Etsy. They are sometimes labeled as nightgowns, sometimes labeled as hemp (maybe they are, but I suspect poor translation), sometimes labeled as "metis" (apparently a linen/cotton blend), sometimes labeled as handwoven which I don't think they are, but they *are* often (not always) completely hand sewn. They are sometimes labeled as Regency or Georgian but the tradition cut hung on and most are likely late 19th or early 20th century. The necklines tend to be round or square, but not V. Sometimes there is a front slit, sometimes not. Some have sleeves, some are sleeveless. Prices vary, but are often reasonable (especially for a hand sewn garment in good condition). I recently bought a lot of four for $40 on eBay. Here is one: http://www.etsy.com/listing/127568458/french-nightgown-thick-rustic-metis?ref=sr_gallery_41&ga_search_query=chemise&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_ship_to=US&ga_order=date_desc&ga_page=0&ga_search_type=vintage There are enough of these regularly for sale (especially on Etsy) from different vendors, and all apparently French, that I suspect some kind of common institutional use, boarding schools or convents or hospitals, perhaps. These chemises are practically bulletproof. They are always in great condition in my experience, and they machine dye beautifully in Procion dyes. I personally think wearing one either as an undergarment crammed under a corset (which was usual for chemises at the time they were made), or as a nightgown over bare skin, would be uncomfortable. Apparently, at the time these were made plenty of French women disagreed. These are, however, great worn as dresses or tunics over another garment. You can decorate them with braid, embroidery, what you fancy. You will probably need to add a piece to enlarge the sleeves. Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress -- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume End of h-costume Digest, Vol 12, Issue 61 *
[h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic
Really easy way to get a handsewn T-tunic: Buy one of the heavy French linen chemises regularly sold by sellers on Etsy. They are sometimes labeled as nightgowns, sometimes labeled as hemp (maybe they are, but I suspect poor translation), sometimes labeled as "metis" (apparently a linen/cotton blend), sometimes labeled as handwoven which I don't think they are, but they *are* often (not always) completely hand sewn. They are sometimes labeled as Regency or Georgian but the tradition cut hung on and most are likely late 19th or early 20th century. The necklines tend to be round or square, but not V. Sometimes there is a front slit, sometimes not. Some have sleeves, some are sleeveless. Prices vary, but are often reasonable (especially for a hand sewn garment in good condition). I recently bought a lot of four for $40 on eBay. Here is one: http://www.etsy.com/listing/127568458/french-nightgown-thick-rustic-metis?ref=sr_gallery_41&ga_search_query=chemise&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_ship_to=US&ga_order=date_desc&ga_page=0&ga_search_type=vintage There are enough of these regularly for sale (especially on Etsy) from different vendors, and all apparently French, that I suspect some kind of common institutional use, boarding schools or convents or hospitals, perhaps. These chemises are practically bulletproof. They are always in great condition in my experience, and they machine dye beautifully in Procion dyes. I personally think wearing one either as an undergarment crammed under a corset (which was usual for chemises at the time they were made), or as a nightgown over bare skin, would be uncomfortable. Apparently, at the time these were made plenty of French women disagreed. These are, however, great worn as dresses or tunics over another garment. You can decorate them with braid, embroidery, what you fancy. You will probably need to add a piece to enlarge the sleeves. Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Greenland dress on eBay
Aside from the Empire waist seam and the wider fabric used, doesn't this look rather familiar? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Privatsachen-Cocon-Commerz-Kleid-Hebenaht-aus-Ecoflachs-Farbe-weidenkatzch-/261163276651?pt=DE_Damen_Kleider&var=&hash=item826d69d1df Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Terms for pants
I look absolutely horrible in both jumpsuits and farmer-style overalls, so have never worn either style. Pity, because farmer overalls can be cute, though I've never liked jumpsuits. Fran Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com On 3/20/2013 4:24 PM, costumegal66 wrote: I wore gauchos for my modeling portfolio in 1977 and my husband bought me a red corduroy knicker jumpsuit in 1982. Still have both of them. Penny Ladnier The Costume Gallery Websites Www.costumegallery.com >From my Android phone on T-Mobile. The first nationwide 4G network. Original message From: Lynn Downward Date: 03/20/2013 7:08 PM (GMT-05:00) To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Terms for pants Tongue stuck firmly in cheek: It never changes. Some guy (Charles Worth, for example) decides we all need to wear hoop skirts (for example) and we all follow along. I bet it's been going on since Mankind first started wearing clothes. And I don't mean only women who follow fashion slavishly; men are right in there too. We finally figure it out, Terry figured it out once she got out of high school. It takes other people decades to realize that the most up to date fashion isn't always the one for them. I love people! And what would we costumers do if no one followed fashion? How could we tell an 1875 bonnet from an 1885 one? Lynn On Wed, Mar 20, 2013 at 3:57 PM, Terry wrote: Hey, be loud and proud about your sartorial choices. I had two pairs of knickers I got in my last year or two of high school--'81 or '82--the kind with the band just below the knee. One pair was a tasteful tweed. The other was lilac corduroy that I wore with cream colored socks and lavender shoes. I actually had two pairs of lavender shoes, but only one pair was deemed dressy enough for the knickers. After that, I stopped following fads... Terry -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Sybella Yes, I did mean the 1980s and "capri" is another one, Cynthia! And Carol may be right, where my memories blended '70s with the '80s...but I do distinctly remember asking Mom to take me shopping for a pair of knickers, pants that came to a gather just below the knee, during my childhood. Honestly, it's something I'd rather not admit to so I'll trust you all to keep it a secret! ;) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Terms for pants
in the 1980s I had green velvet knee breeches/knickers a la Princess Diana, and several pairs of (vintage, 20s or 30s) natural linen jodhpurs a la Ralph Lauren. I just thought I'd throw in a mention of the jodhpurs, because both styles looked great on me. I enjoy following fashion trends I really like, but since most trends are not historic (which to me is pre-1930), I follow many of the historic ones and ignore most of the others. Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress On 3/20/2013 3:57 PM, Terry wrote: Hey, be loud and proud about your sartorial choices. I had two pairs of ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fabrics Medieval vs Modern
Ramie was trendy in the 1980s. I had a couple of 100% ramie blouses. They were like a slightly bristly linen, less shiny after ironing, and did not wear quite as well as linen. They retained dye at about the same level as linen, that is, less well than cotton. Then again, some of that may have been due to the quality of the blouses, which although not rock bottom quality/label/price were not high end, either. Fran Lavolta Press Books of historic clothing patterns www.lavoltapress.com www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress On 3/12/2013 7:40 AM, Kate Bunting wrote: I once had a cardigan which included ramie fibre. According to Wikipedia this is the same plant as the "Chinese grass" that Fran mentioned, a kind of nettle. Apparently it is difficult to use alone as it doesn't stretch and has many projecting "hairs". I can vouch that this is true of stinging nettle fibre, which I once had a try at hand-spinning. Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor Derby, UK ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fabrics Medieval vs Modern
Vintage tablecloths made of Chinese "grass cloth," made from nettle fibers, are sold on eBay from time to time. It's a cellulose fiber. On the tablecloths, it's like a good grade of handkerchief linen, with that sheen linen gets after ironing, not really like silk. Fran Lavolta Press Books of historic clothing patterns www.lavoltapress.com On 3/10/2013 1:34 PM, Simone Bryan wrote: I have been working on that here in the West Kingdom (Northern California) for many years! I give a class and demonstration on such, So what specific information are you looking for? Like what fibers are still used and what materials? For example, there was a fabric created from Stinging Nettle, we don't currently have this material that I know ofbut you can use silk gauze or organza and soft organza. There are many things when working to find fabrics and fibers that mimic the Medieval look. Then you need to look at your pocket book, because we can get fabrics that are like medieval fabrics but they come at a cost, some as much as $86.00 or more per yard/meter! So What it that you really want? Cilean ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
