KR> Removable turtle deck

[Peter Drake]

Its the back half off a Piel Emeraude, but turned around to make it a bit 
slicker.

I am at last getting on with it having got the approvals for all my mods and 
the Jabiru.

Just done the toe brakes, thanks for the design on your website, Mark.

Just about to start on the firewall forward. I have bought a piece of 0.5mm 
grade 1 Titanium for the firewall to keep the weight down.

Peter

>Note the sexy shape of canopy and turtle deck!
Is that a Grob canopy, or what?  It looks

KR> Removable turtle deck

[Peter Drake]

Hi Paul

I have made a removable turtle deck see www.peterskr2s.co.uk.
It has 6  2024 ally lugs cast in the fibreglass which will have nutplates 
on. They are fixed by screws from the outside.
It means that access to the rear of the fuselage is so much easier. Note the 
sexy shape of canopy and turtle deck!

Peter Drake
Hereford UK


Subject: KR> Removable turtle deck

 Does anyone besides Mark have a removable turtle deck or in the process 
of making one?
 I have mine attached with expanding foam. it would be so simple right 
now to lay the fiberglass and be done with it.

KR> UK aircraft grade lumber supplier?

[Peter Drake]

Rogelio

The sitka grown in the UK is only good for matchsticks and construction it 
grows too fast. We use it graded to C16 for construction which is on the 
limit.
Baltic pine is too dense and not as strong.
I have got Douglas fir spars on mine, but they are heavy compared to spruce 
and must be North American (see above for UK grown Spruce)
Hardwoods in general have too short a fibre length to be any good.
Sorry stuck with Spruce...

Peter

-Original Message- 
From: Rogelio M. Serrano Jr. via KRnet
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: 03 March 2015 12:26
To: Rogelio Serrano
Cc: KRnet
Subject: Re: KR> UK aircraft grade lumber supplier?

On Tue, Mar 3, 2015 at 12:12 PM, Rogelio M. Serrano Jr.
 wrote:

>
> Spruce is like Gold nowadays. Which is a good substitute? Baltic Pine?
> bald cypress?
>
> Anybody got a stand of stika spruce they can spare? ;-)
>

Half of commercial plantations in the UK actually plant Sitka Spruce.
But they are mostly used for paper, furniture and packing crates.
Packing crates!

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KR> UK aircraft grade lumber supplier?

[Peter Drake]

Mark
I thought I enjoyed a chase, but that one is wearing a bit thin now!

Peter Drake

-Original Message- 
From: Mark Langford via KRnet
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: 03 March 2015 03:13
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: KR> UK aircraft grade lumber supplier?

But some
people enjoy the chase and the sense of accomplishment at pulling it
off, so feel free to blaze a trail for us...

Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
http://www.n56ml.com


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KR> UK aircraft grade lumber supplier?

[Peter Drake]

Hi Rogelio

I am based in Herefordshire and am building a much modified KR2s 
(www.peterskr2s.co.uk)
DO NOT MAKE MODIFICATIONS LIGHTLY AND WITHOUT APPROVAL FROM LAA ENGINEERING, 
you will encounter big hassles if you do and you will not get a permit to 
fly without.
I am speaking from personal experience!

Getting spruce in the UK is difficult. However I have found a source in 
Oxfordshire called Bygone Aviation near Witney. (Matt at bygoneaviation.com).

Give me a call on 01497 847340 if you want a chat.

Cheers

Peter Drake

-Original Message- 
From: Rogelio M. Serrano Jr. via KRnet
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: 02 March 2015 00:02
To: KRnet
Subject: KR> UK aircraft grade lumber supplier?

Hi Guys,

I hope UK based builders can get in touch.

I live in the Isle of Man and I'm looking for spruce and okoume
plywood suppliers in the northwest of Britain.

I just ordered flat tow bid uni and triax carbon fiber fabric for my spars.

I hope to be building the fuse as soon as possible.

Thank you in advance.

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KR> Firewall

[Peter Drake]

Hi All

I have just got a sheet of 0.5mm Titanium for my firewall.

Has anyone got any tips on how best to attach it to the ply bulkhead.

Peter Drake
Hereford
UK

KR> Spruce Fungus?

[Peter Drake]

Hi All
I think I am qualified to comment on this one with a degree in forestry and 
a diploma in Timber technology!

If it came from a reputable source the spruce you will be using for your KR 
will have been kiln dried, as long you keep the timber dry it will not get 
infected with fungi.
There are also preservatives which are applied by pressure impregnation or 
surface application by brush or spray, but they are not appropriate for this 
application (used for construction, fencing etc where the timber might get 
damp).
Sometimes the timber might get a bit discoloured if it gets slightly damp. 
This is likely to be blue stain which does not affect the strength. However 
it is vital that the timber is dried out properly if there is any suspicion 
that it may have got damp.

I hope that this clears this one up!

Peter Drake
Hereford UK


Maybe some really qualified person will chime in?




On 1/15/2015 10:20 AM, Chris Prata via KRnet wrote:
> Hi All,  an A friend of mine (and aluminum experimental builder), 
> mentioned some spruce fungus issue that if not caught can be disastrous. 
> Is this an issue with the materials, and if so how to 
> inspect/avoid/prevent?
> Thanks

KR> Polystyrene bonding

[Peter Drake]

Hi Adam

I used 5 minute polyurethane glue with blue Styrofoam on mine. The advantage
is it sets quickly so you can get on with things.
The downside is that it foams up as it sets so you need to ensure the spars
are well restrained so it does not distort.

Hung the Jab 3300 engine on a temporary mount the other day, beginning to
look like an aeroplane!
Pics of the radical surgery I had to undertake cutting off the 6" my 
predecessor added to the fuse so that the 3300 would fit. see 
www.peterskr2s.co.uk

Peter Drake
Hereford UK

What is suggested or most commonly used to bind polystyrene. I'm willing to 
spend to save weight but would rather not sacrifice safety in any way. I'm 
setting up to start my horizontal stab fill/shape.
My photos are in FB Adam Tippin Knoxville TN

KR> Got the go ahead

[Peter Drake]

Hi guys

I have at last got approval from the LAA to use the Jabiru 3300 on my KR!

However I have got to cut the extra 6" off the front we put on when we were 
going to use the Jab 2200 to get the w right! radical surgery.
We have got to double up the main engine bearers behind the firewall as 
well.

I have got to get some more spruce for this. Does anyone know what the 
minimum grain count (rings per inch) I should be looking for.

At last I can get on with it, its been over two years wrestling with red 
tape, not to mention the bill for the engineer.

Peter Drake
Hereford UK 

KR> UK Weather Forecasts

[Peter Drake]

Hi mike

That looks like a good resource. I've just watched the current bulletin and 
am even more depressed than I was before!

Peter Drake
Hereford UK

-Original Message- 
From: Mike
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2014 2:14 PM
To: krnet at list.krnet.org
Subject: KR> UK Weather Forecasts

http://www.weatherweb.net/wxwebtv2.php is the free weather video service
BTW, it's crappy here and looks like getting worse!



Mike Mold

Devon, UK





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KR> Emailing: KR 4271 (3)

[Peter Drake]

Hi Don
Nice plane

What kind of take off run and climb rate do you get?

Peter Drake
Hereford UK

-Original Message- 
From: Don Laverick
atached is a shot of my KR2Ss which has

A  Jabiru 80 hp 4 cylinder engine

   The plane does 140 knots WOT  using 22 litres per hour at 3300rpm and 
cruises at 105 knots at 2850 rpm and15 litres per hour

KR> ethanol-free fuel link

[Peter Drake]

We now have 90UL Avgas which is cleared for use on most engines like 
Lycomings in the UK.
It is 20% cheaper than 100LL and our fuel costs are way higher than in the 
US.
I have been running it in by PA28 140 for about a year with no ill effects.

Peter Drake
UK





"It will be a great day when 100NL (no lead) is available and the lead
problem with valves and plugs, is also removed from the equation."

KR> front-hinging a side-hinged canopy how-to

[Peter Drake]

Hi Mark

I have made an aluminium canopy based on your original canopy with cranked 
hinges.
How did you go about making closing catches? I can't decide which way to go.

Peter Drake
Hereford UK
www.petersKR2s.co.uk

-Original Message- 
From: Mark Langford
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 1:36 AM
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: KR> front-hinging a side-hinged canopy how-to

If you'd read the webpage, you wouldn't asked those questions...

Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
website at http://www.N56ML.com
 


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KR> Jabiru on a KR

[Peter Drake]

Thanks Mike, I have emailed him

I see from the archives that Dene Collett has some engine mount drawings or 
data. Dene if you see this are you able to help me?

Peter Drake

www.peterskr2s.co.uk


- Original Message - 
From: <laser...@juno.com>
To: <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2011 8:51 AM
Subject: KR> Jabiru on a KR


Look up Willie van derl Walt on the archives and email him to see what he


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KR> RE: needs advice

[Peter Drake]

Hi Brian 

You can't post photos to the Net. Put them on a website and point us to it.
I'm in the UK so a phone call might be a bit expensive!

Peter
www.peterskr2s.co.uk

- Original Message - 
From: "Brian Coss" 
To: "KRnet" 
Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2011 1:46 AM
Subject: KR> RE: needs advice


Is there any chance of a ph# to talk to someone in person,cuz I hv so many
questions to ask,about my kr2 project, and I really don't understand how
this kr net thing works?
On Sep 24, 2011 7:23 PM, "Brian Coss"  wrote:
> here is some pics
> On Sep 24, 2011 6:36 PM, "Dan Heath"  wrote:
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KR> New Pics

[Peter Drake]

Hi All

I have just updated my website with a few more pics.
We are using an Emeraude canopy for extra headroom. But I had to modify the 
turtle deck to give it a more organic shape.
Used Mark L's method for making tail access cover, worked a treat!

I am still getting nowhere with obtaining some stress analysis calcs on the 
fire wall for using this Jabiru 3300 we have bought. No reply from Bill Marcy 
or his charity.

60% etc.

Peter Drake
Hereford UK

www.peterskr2s.co.uk


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KR> KR-2 Wood (a bit long story)

[Peter Drake]

Herry
I think you were very wise not to fly a plane built with Rhamin. It is a 
short-fibered hardwood totally unsuitable for this kind of structural use.

Peter Drake
www.peterskr2s.co.uk


I live in Indonesia, plenty of wood, found wood called RHAMIN (in Sumatera 
and Borneo), it has very nice strait grain.
Treated properly (Kiln drying processed) and selected, got about 20% only 
from the total volume.
 Finished. But finally hesitation to fly came to my mind because of this 
un-proven material.

As I was very eager to fly, then I was mad, closed my eyes, closed my ears, 
I bought/ imported Sitka Spruce
 and Aircraf grade plywood, all wood kit for KR-2 (from Aircraf Spruce 
compay).
No .. no.. I don't suggest you anything, but please remember the post from 
Greg Martin bellow

Herry Rudyanto
PK - SKV



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KR> Douglas Fir Veneer and Yellow cedar Veneer

[Peter Drake]

Steve

A veneer is a very thin sheet of decorative timber usually bonded to another 
cheaper timber. Also plywood is made up of veneers maybe only 1mm or less 
thick.
You should be looking for clear lumber for your KR.
I don't know what exact terms you use in the US for this.

Peter Drake
Hereford UK

- Original Message - 
From: "omotosho olalekan" <tosh_linc...@yahoo.com>
To: "K Rnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 11:04 AM
Subject: KR> Douglas Fir Veneer and Yellow cedar Veneer


Hi Folks,

Please am a bit getting confused after i tried to search for materials I can 
get Douglas Fir Venner and Yellow cedar Venner but the word Veneer makes me 
confused if am getting the right material. Please help me on this.

And what size should i be searching for in terms of thickness and both 
length and width

Regards

Steve




From: Marty Martin <martygmar...@gmail.com>
To: omotosho olalekan <tosh_linc...@yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, September 5, 2011 8:32 PM
Subject: Re: KR> About Spruce


Steve


What country are in. Because is some cases. You can look to specific local 
woods that can fill the bill. I have used both Stika Spruce and Douglas Fir. 
The Fir is about 12% heaver but is about 15% stronger. So there are trade 
offs.

So, let me know what country you live in and I will look at the variour 
woods and their weight and strength.

M. G. Martin

On Mon, Sep 5, 2011 at 1:02 AM, omotosho olalekan <tosh_linc...@yahoo.com> 
wrote:

Hi Folks,
>
>Now it time to get hands dirty, please I will like to ask what time of 
>spruce are used in constructing KR2S, the reason is that am trying to 
>search spruce locally in order to minimize cost of importation. I would be 
>very great full to hear from you all.
>
>Regards,
>
>Steve
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KR> Jabiru 3300 weight vs corvair

[Peter Drake]

Mark

I have sent an email to Bill Marcy at the email address he used in the 
archives. I hope he still uses that email.

Regarding the engine weight issue. We have incorporated extra longerons top 
and bottom on the forward part of the fuselage to deal with the extra load.
However its no good without numbers, so I hope Bill can come up with some.

Many thanks for your help.

Peter Drake
www.peterskr2s.co.uk

- Original Message - 
From: "Mark Langford" <m...@n56ml.com>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2011 10:54 PM
Subject: Re: KR> Jabiru 3300 weight vs corvair


There's a guy named Bill Marcy (who I think is from Arizona or Colorado or
somewhere out that way) that did some structural analysis for Rand Robinson
in the 90's, and one of the things he said at the first OSH forum I went to
was that his analysis showed that O-200s and "just about anything else that
would fit" would be OK for the airframe of the KR2S, thanks to the beefing
up it got at the firewall (as opposed to the KR2).  Take a look at the
archives (http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp) and search for "Marcy"
and you may turn up his address.  RR should have his analysis that reports
this info though.  I assume she paid him to do the work, so she should have
it somewhere.  There's a message from Austrian Christian Kogelmann  where he
says he has the flight envelope analysis from Marcy that details max gross
weight, so he may know how to get in touch with him.  I'm betting RR knows
how to get in touch with him as well.

I can tell you that my Corvair engine weighs right at 245 pounds complete,
with everything it needs to run except fuel in the lines and electrons in
the wires (that's carb, exhaust, airbox, generator, oil, etc), and on my
first flight I tested the mount to 5 g's on the meter. I doubt the published
weight for Continentals or Jabirus is absolutely "full-up", so keep that in
mind when my 245 sounds heavy.

It's the downward force of a hard landing that might separate the engine and
firewall from the fuselage, not just pulling it through the air.  That's why
it's more a weight issue than a power issue.  Just improving the load path
from the mount to the outer edges of the firewall (near the longerons) goes
a long way to strengthening that setup.

As for Corvair hp, mine was rated at 110 hp at 4400 rpm, but that was with a
different cam and I've got 15% more displacement now.  You can sift through
the stuff at http://www.n56ml.com/corvair/specs.html and find just about
anything you want to know about the stock Corvair specs or the
implementation that I'm running, with all kinds of  other details at
http://www.n56ml.com/corvair ...

Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
website at http://www.N56ML.com
 


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KR> Jabiru 3300

[Peter Drake]

Hi All

Thanks for all your suggestions.
We have come to the conclusion that the only way to get this one through is 
with raw data.
Engineers like numbers and no amount of hearsay evidence is likely to sway 
them.

So has anyone out there got any numbers that will back up the case for using 
a 120hp engine on a KR2S?

I am mainly looking for any data on torque stress on the airframe.

Thanks

Peter
Hereford UK

I have just had an email from the cheif engineer of the LAA and he has
refused to let us use a Jabiru 3300 in a KR2S because he says it is too
powerful!
Has anyone got any stress data that I can hit him back with?

A frustrated Peter Drake
Hereford UK



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KR> Jabiru 3300

[Peter Drake]

Hi

I have just had an email from the cheif engineer of the LAA and he has 
refused to let us use a Jabiru 3300 in a KR2S because he says it is too 
powerful!
Has anyone got any stress data that I can hit him back with?

A frustrated Peter Drake
Hereford UK

- Original Message - 
From: "Peter Drake" <p...@kingsland.uk.com>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Monday, August 22, 2011 3:22 PM
Subject: KR> Jabiru 3300


Hi All

There has been some discussion about Jabiru engines.

I am in the process of purchasing a Jabiru 3300 for my KR2s
We feel we need the extra grunt of 120hp to get out of some of the tiny farm
strips we have in the UK.
Is there anyone flying a KR with one out there?



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KR> Jabiru 3300

[Peter Drake]

Craig

Unfortunately the LAA are restricting me to 1100lbs MAUW so the Corvair will 
be too heavy.
Anyway getting the Corvair past the LAA would be like the proverbial 
camel

Peter

- Original Message - 
From: "Craig Williams" <kr2seaf...@yahoo.com>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Monday, August 22, 2011 4:01 PM
Subject: Re: KR> Jabiru 3300


Why not a 3.0 liter corvair it's 120Hp.  Even with shipping it's way cheaper 
than the Jabiru.

Craig
www.kr2seafury.com

--- On Mon, 8/22/11, Peter Drake <p...@kingsland.uk.com> wrote:

> From: Peter Drake <p...@kingsland.uk.com>
> Subject: KR> Jabiru 3300
> To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
> Date: Monday, August 22, 2011, 2:22 PM
> Hi All
>
> There has been some discussion about Jabiru engines.


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KR> Jabiru 3300

[Peter Drake]

Hi All

There has been some discussion about Jabiru engines.

I am in the process of purchasing a Jabiru 3300 for my KR2s
We feel we need the extra grunt of 120hp to get out of some of the tiny farm 
strips we have in the UK.
Is there anyone flying a KR with one out there?

Peter Drake
Hereford UK



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KR> Jabiru powered KR2-S

[Peter Drake]

Barry and all

I am in the process of purchasing a Jabiru 3300 for my KR2s
We feel we need the extra grunt of 120hp to get out of some of the tiny farm 
strips we have in the UK.
Is there anyone flying a KR with one out there?

Peter Drake
Hereford UK


- Original Message - 
From: "Barry Kruyssen" <k...@bigpond.com>
To: "'KRnet'" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Monday, May 23, 2011 11:04 PM
Subject: RE: KR> Jabiru powered KR2-S


Hi Kolbjoern

I have a standard KR2 with a Jabiru 2200 Engine.

See my WEB pages
http://athertonairport.com.au/kr2/
http://athertonairport.com.au/kr2/jabiru_engine.htm
http://athertonairport.com.au/kr2/w_and_b.htm

Being that the KR2S is bigger than the standard KR2 I would go for the
Jabiru 3300 engine (which is still lighter than a WV conversion engine and
120HP).

Any other info please contact me.

Regards
Barry Kruyssen
k...@bigpond.com
http://athertonairport.com.au/kr2/


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KR> Kr Robin Macdonald

[Peter Drake]

Has any one heard anything from KR builder Robin Macdonald in New Zealand.
He lives very near the epicentre of the earthquake. I emailed him soon after it 
happened but haven't heard anything.

My KR posts are not getting acknowledged can someone let me know if this is 
getting through.

Thanks

Peter Drake
Hereford UK

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KR> Robin Macdonald

[Peter Drake]

Has anyone heard from Robin Macdonald in NZ
He lives very close to the earthquake epicentre. I emailed him just after it 
happened and have not had a reply.

Peter Drake UK

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KR> Larry F.

[Peter Drake]

Dan
The last post that I had from him was from the following address: 
fles...@frontier.com
Peter
- Original Message - 
From: "Dan Heath" 
To: "'KRnet'" ; "'Larry Flesner'" 

Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2011 4:08 PM
Subject: KR> Larry F.


Has anyone been in contact with Larry Flesner lately?  I have
fles...@verizon.net, and my mail to him was "undeliverable".

Daniel R. Heath



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KR> Re : Mark Langford

[Peter Drake]

Hi
My aileron pushrod control system is based on Ken Atkinsons design. I used 
his drawings and then adapted them to suit my project.
Contact me off net if you would like a set of my drawings.
Phil, I think it is about time we met up, Whereabouts are you? I'm near Hay 
on Wye.

Peter Drake
Hereford UK

From: "phil brookman" <pjb1234...@yahoo.co.uk>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>


yes i would like to know as well  i am up in doncaster  but can travel
phill brookman

Peter Drake
Hereford UK




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KR> Re : Mark Langford

[Peter Drake]

Congrats to Mark. When are you coming over here again Mark? I'd like to show 
my project.

I've just uploaded some pics of my flap/airbrake control onto my website 
www.peterskr2s.co.uk
I have used the stock lever design with a Bowden push-pull cable to the 
torque bar.

Peter Drake
Hereford UK 


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KR> Re: Sanding Vinyl Ester Layup

[Peter Drake]

Polyvinyl acrylate That is white wood glue.

Peter Drake UK

rdrace...@aol.com>
Re: Sanding Vinyl Ester Layup 


What is PVA?




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KR> Glassing wings

[Peter Drake]

Robin

I layed up the whole top and then the whole bottom with a 2" overlap at the 
leading edge (where its needed). I then propped the wing up on the trailing 
edge and the laid up the second layer forward of the main spar in one piece.
Each to his own...

Peter Drake


- Original Message - 
From: "Robin Macdonald" <r.macdon...@clear.net.nz>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 8:52 PM
Subject: KR> Glassing wings


I am in the process of sanding my wings & laying up the glass.

Many thanks for your reply

Robin,

NZ


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KR> Photos

[Peter Drake]

The seat was a 2 stage process.
First I made a pair of ply formers and mounted them in a frame
Then I glued in 3 pieces of 2" foam and sanded them to the formers
Then I glassed the sanded surface
then I removed it from the frame and turned it over, resetting it so that 
the foam was about 3/8" below the former (yes the profile was reversible)
I then sanded it to the formers and glassed it.
The result is a 3/8" sandwich.
I am going to reinforce it with flox and further layers of glass where it 
rests on the bearers to stop the foam collapsing with my weight.

My company website is the same as my domain name, if you want to see more 
buildings. I am not trying to sell in the USA, so there is no marketing 
benefit in this for me.

Peter


- Original Message - 
From: "Fred Johnson" 
To: "'KRnet'" 
Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 5:42 PM
Subject: RE: KR> Photos


Nice looking building Peter.

How did you shape the blue foam for the seats on your bird?

Was it sanded to shape or did you heat and bend? Or what?

For the rest of the guys on the net, they should take a look at the
craftsmanship you put into your buildings, it's reflected too in your
airplane.

Fred Johnson
Reno, NV


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KR> Photos

[Peter Drake]

It most certainly is!
We do garages, stables, workshops etc.
I'm just about to do a clubhouse/pavilion for the local Kart track.
Peter
- Original Message - 
From: "Fred Johnson" 
To: "'KRnet'" 
Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 5:33 PM
Subject: RE: KR> Photos


Nice bird Peter!

Is that garage one of your buildings?

Fred Johnson
Reno, NV


Peter wrote:

Hi
It seems my emails are being swallowed up by a spam filter somewhere

I have just uploaded a whole lot of new photos of my project on my website
www.peterskr2s.co.uk




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KR> Photos

[Peter Drake]

Hi
It seems my emails are being swallowed up by a spam filter somewhere

I have just uploaded a whole lot of new photos of my project on my website 
www.peterskr2s.co.uk

Peter Drake
Hereford UK

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KR> Wing gap cover screws ?

[Peter Drake]

Hi
I have made the wing gaps about 1/16", although I may increase this a bit. I 
am now trying to find  PVC "T" section piping to fit in the gap to finish it 
off.
I am making aluminium plates to cover the holes for the WAF bolts which will 
be mounted on Camlock fasteners.

Peter
Hereford UK

- Original Message - 
From: "MICHAEL SYLVESTER" 
To: "KRNET" 
Sent: Saturday, June 26, 2010 6:23 PM
Subject: KR> Wing gap cover screws ?



Hey Guys, It's a little slow on the net right now so I'll pose this 
question. What do the wing gap cover screws screw into ? Do I need to put 
wood blocks on the inside of the wing ? Looking at a few web sites, I don't 
think that screw location has ever been address. Will small sheet metal 
screws not pull out ?



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KR> Electric Trim

[Peter Drake]

Dave

I have used a heavy duty model airplane radio control servo with a servo 
tester circuit as a controller. It hasn't flown yet so I don't know whether 
the servo is powerful enough.
I tried the wing mirror servo method with a servo off a Jeep Cherokee, but I 
couldn't get it to operate fast enough.

Peter
Hereford UK

- Original Message - 
From: "Dave Dunwoodie" 
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 10:32 PM
Subject: KR> Electric Trim


I haven't seen anything on here about electric trim, and I know lots of


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KR> Aileron counterbalances

[Peter Drake]

Phil
Did the gusset cut into the aileron spar?
Peter
- Original Message - 
From: "phillip matheson" 
To: "KRnet" 
Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 8:17 AM
Subject: Re: KR> Aileron counterbalances


I'm not much of an expert on that but mine are 1/8" aluminium
Larry.
--
Hi guys, my 2 cents worth.
I made my bracket from T6 flat. I bent it to the correct angle, as close to
rear spar as possible.
I welded a gusset on the underside,( so it looks like a "T" section. very
strong and light.


Phil Matheson
SAAA Ch 20
www.phils...@50megs.com



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KR> Aileron counterbalances

[Peter Drake]

Thanks Larry
What thickness steel should I use?
Peter
>There were some posts a couple of years back about it, suggesting
>steel would be best, what size and thickness? Should I  use angle
>rather than bending some plate up?


Yes, go with steel.  Some aluminum brackets have been known to
break.  Go with a 1.5 to 2 inch wide piece of angle, length of the
two arms as you determine.  If you bend up plate you are stressing
the metal before you even install it and you'll want the nice sharp
bend of the angle to make a better fit.  You are limited on the
length of the weighted arm because of the closeness to the rear spar.

Larry Flesner

KR> Aileron counterbalances

[Peter Drake]

I am in the process of building the ailerons. I can,t see from the plans what 
size or type of material they are made from except that they should be 1/8" 
thick.
There were some posts a couple of years back about it, suggesting steel would 
be best, what size and thickness? Should I  use angle rather than bending some 
plate up?
Thanks
Peter Drake UK

KR> today's flight

[Peter Drake]

Mark

Here in the UK we have a "Cloud Appreciation Society", You should be a 
member!
Peter Drake

Mark wrote:

I flew a little today, and it was a real hoot.  See the top two pictures at
http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/sunsets/



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KR> Re: Folding wings

[Peter Drake]

Rich
I have seen Ken Atkinson's wing arrangement. The wings do not fold. All he 
has done is to make the existing WAF arrangement easier to remove the wings, 
by using anchor nuts and a quite ingenious wing joint cover. He keeps it an 
a trailer at home anfd then tows it to the airfield to fly. He says he can 
rig it in about 45 minutes. Unfortunately he does not use a computer so you 
can't contact him on line.
I have some pics I took of it when I visited him last year, contact me off 
net and I will send them.
Peter Drake
- Original Message - 
From: <hart...@charter.net>
To: <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Friday, January 15, 2010 1:51 PM
Subject: KR> Re: Folding wings


A few years ago Mark L had a link on his website about quick detach wing 
fittings from a builder in the UK.  The link was from Willie Wilson and I 
believe the builder was a K. Atkinson on his KR2 G-BVIA.  The link no longer 
works, but maybe someone has a copy of it.  The system looked simple enough 
to build, didn't add a lot of weight and appeared to make wing removal after 
flight practical.
Rich Hartwig
Waunakee WI

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KR> Glueing Foam

[Peter Drake]

Robin
I used polyurethane wood glue, the 30 minute type, it expands just enough to 
fill any gaps, although you have to remove foamed up bits before you sand 
otherwise they break off and gouge out the foam spoiling your day. Remember 
to wet the wood slightly, it acts as a catalyst, I use a garden spray 
bottle.
I tried builders gapfilling foam in an aerosol, however it expands so much 
that it can distort the spars, especially on the horizontal stab (bitter 
experience!).
The big advantage over using epoxy resin is that it dries in 30+ minutes on 
a warm day, so you can get on with things.
Peter Drake
- Original Message - 
From: "Robin Macdonald" <r.macdon...@clear.net.nz>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 7:45 PM
Subject: KR> Glueing Foam


Guys,

I am in the process of glueing the foam to the spars, wing leading & 
trailing edge, tail feathers, etc. I have made the main wing planks in a 
sandwich & they are floxed in placed. Now I want to do the leading & 
trailing edge & the tail feathers.

What is the preferred process to attach the foam to the spares etc. Some 
have used resin, & I understand some have used a sprayon 3M product.  If 
resin is a preferred process what mix have you used. straight resin, resin & 
micro,  or what do you suggest.

Much apprecaited for your reply

Robin

NZ
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KR> William Walsh

[Peter Drake]

The CEO Of British Airways is called Willie Walsh. I'm sure that he can't be 
the same guy!
Peter Drake
- Original Message - 
From: "Lee Van Dyke" <l...@vandyke5.com>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 6:44 PM
Subject: KR> William Walsh


Netters,

I'm trying to get intouch with a person by the name of william walsh.  I 
received an email from a person on this net who knew of him.  I'm selling 
the plane that he flipped.  Does anybody have his email address or know how 
to get in touch of him.  Email me off line please.

Lee Van Dyke
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KR> 2600cc VW/Porsche Type 4 for sale

[Peter Drake]

Hi Ron

What weight is the engine?

Peter Drake
Hereford UK

- Original Message - 
From: "Ronald Piekaar" <ifixthi...@rcabletv.com>
To: <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 12, 2009 12:29 AM
Subject: KR> 2600cc VW/Porsche Type 4 for sale


Hi everyone in KR land,
It's Ron and I have a never used, zero time, never mounted 2600cc 
VW/Porsche Type 4 engine for sale. The engine was originally built by 
Great Planes Aircraft after which it was given to Revmaster Aviation 
for  modification and testing.
Revmaster installed a turbocharger, Revflow carburetor, custom exhaust, 
oil cooler, HD prop flange and provided the machining necessary to 
attach oil pressure, oil temp, EGT, CHT and manifold pressure 
instrumentation as well as various other work (all documentation comes 
with engine).
Dyno test showed that the engine developed 100 hp @ 3400 rpm @ 36" 
manifold pressure and an amazing 119 hp @ 3400 rpm @ 40" manifold 
pressure (original test charts come with engine).
The engine was to be installed on a KR-2S, which quite frankly, I'm 
wondering now if I'll ever have time and money to finish (I started 
this project in 1994...I was so much younger then).
The engine was built in hopes of contending for the Nobel Prize for 
Pocket Rocketry. Maybe someone out there can use this engine and still 
win it.
The "I'm willing to take a real hosing" asking price is $8500 f.o.b. 
Curlew, WA but I will, of course, consider any serious and reasonable 
offer. Compared to the cost of any other engine boasting a proven 119 
hp, this is a great buy.




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KR> Paint

[Peter Drake]

One intrepid builder in the UK has used Rustoleum combicolor paint on his 
aircraft. He was inspired by the amazing finishes the VW campervan community 
were achieving! There is an article about it in the April 2009 LAA magazine. 
(our equivalent to the EAA).
He applied it heavily thinned with white spirit with a 4" roller in very 
thin coats.
The advantage being that small components can be finished and put away, with 
the minimum of workshop preparation as there is no overspray.
The plane hasn't flown yet so we are all waiting to see how durable it is. 
There was some question about how hard it was.

Peter Drake
Hereford UK

- Original Message - 
From: "bobby burington" <bobbycrea...@yahoo.com>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 26, 2009 6:10 PM
Subject: KR> Paint



Hello All ,

Hope everyone is having a great Thanksgiving. I was wondering what everyone 
was using for a primer and finish coat of paint on their planes ?.

KR> gap between wings

[Peter Drake]

Hi
Surely the answer is to remove the rear WAF bolts and only leave the bottom 
main spar bolt in place, when removing the wing. This would prevent any 
unnecessary stresses.
This string interests me as I am doing the wing roots as we speak.
My added complication is that I am using a version of Ken Atkinson's pushrod 
controls which has the pushrod and bellcranks in the gap. So I have inset 
the foam rib on the outboard wings 2" outwards to give clearance. then I 
have tapered the top foam from the join back to the rib and am glassing the 
inside to give the overhang strength. (a bit like Larry's)
Access to the top main WAF bolts remains a problem. I am thinking of cutting 
access holes and floxing in ally shelves with anchor nuts attached and 
fitting a 1/16" ally sheet flush inspection plate with countersunk screws 
for neatness. I can then put a similar, bigger inspection plate on the 
underneath.
Any comments

Peter Drake
Hereford UK

- Original Message - 
From: "John Martindale" <john_martind...@bigpond.com>
To: "'KRnet'" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 12:44 AM
Subject: RE: KR> gap between wings


Hey Phil

How do you do this when the bottom bolts in main and rear spar are not in
alignment (as per the plans)?

If the wing pivots downwards on them they must align otherwise one or other
will bind and strain the WAFs.


John Martindale

KR> Interesting videos

[Peter Drake]

Paul
This is similar to the method I used for my wing tips, except I didn't have 
a former every 2". I just cut 2" layers of foam to the slice profiles, then 
stuck them all together and then sanded them off. See www.peterskr2s.co.uk
Peter Drake
Hereford UK
- Original Message - 
From: "Paul & Karen Smith" <pk.sm...@bigpond.net.au>
To: <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 12:30 PM
Subject: KR> Interesting videos


This series of time lapse videos of a guy building a foam car body plug
Some of the techniques we could use.

KR> South African Speed Record - KR2

[Peter Drake]

Willie
What make of VW turbo engine did the KR2 that broke the record have?

Peter Drake

- Original Message - 
From: "Willie van der Walt" <touri...@intekom.co.za>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 6:15 PM
Subject: KR> South African Speed Record - KR2

KR> Biggin Hill "Air Fair"

[Peter Drake]

Mark
If you want to buy bits for air craft, I suggest you get along to one of the 
LAA regional events. Here you can get up close to the aircraft and they have 
a few stands selling stuff. See http://www.lightaircraftassociation.co.uk/. 
for venues.
Peter Drake
- Original Message - 
From: "Mark Langford" <n5...@hiwaay.net>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Cc: "Corvair engines for homebuilt aircraft" <corvaircr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 30, 2009 12:24 AM
Subject: KR> Biggin Hill "Air Fair"


NetHeads,

Biggin Hill "Air Fair" was this weekend. It's an old RAF Spitfire base that 
I was half expecting to be a quaint grass strip with a bunch of Spitfires on 
hand, but it turned out to be a thriving corporate jet kind of place with 
several runways instead.  I guess I'm spoiled by Oshkosh and Sun N Fun, but 
the planes were kept well away from visitors, and if you think OSH is too 
"commercial", you have no idea how commercial it can get.  I only saw a 
couple of experimental airplanes there, and they were basically Bleirot 
replicas on display for a cosmetic company.

One reason I went was to buy a few metric nuts and bolts from what I figured 
would be a few vendors of those kind of things, but no such luck.  The only 
real airplane parts I saw was one vendor selling instruments from old 
military aircraft (what's a "power loss meter", anyway?).  The majority of 
vendors were selling hamburgers, chips, and ice cream, and a huge proportion 
were inflatable kiddie attractions.  It  was a trifle disappointing.

 As for old warbirds, there were several, but the most notable were an 
ME-109, three Spitfires, a P-51, and a Vulcan bomber.  I couldn't stand to 
stay around long enough to see the Vulcan, but I got to see it later, oddly 
enough.  I was back at the farmhouse when I heard this roar approaching, and 
looked out just in time to see the Vulcan thundering overhead at maybe a 
thousand feet, headed from Biggin Hill (an hour and a half's drive away) to 
it's home base.  What are the chances of me being directly under the flight 
path?

 There was also a worthwhile micro version of the Popham airfield antique 
car show, with a few more cars I'd never  heard of before.  Below are some 
links to the few flying photos that I took.

http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/andover/090627238.jpg is an ME-109.
http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/andover/090627268.jpg is the Spitfire that 
opened the show.  Carolyn Grace did some aerobatics in it just to kick the 
"flying display" off.
http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/andover/090627285.jpg
http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/andover/090627300.jpg
It's a beautiful airplane, and it was great to be able to stand there and 
see a Spitfire fly doing ten or twelve flybys intertwined with aerobatics, 
at one of the very fields where they flew from during WWII.  That alone made 
it worth the visit.  You can't escape the history of this place.  There are 
former RAF fields just about everywhere.  The book vendors were full of 
books detailing accounts of various war stories as told by the guys who'd 
been there and done that.  I have a couple of books that Mac Wood gave me to 
read, and so far, they are quite spellbinding.

For more on Carolyn Grace and her Spitfire, see 
http://www.ml407.co.uk/pages/ ...

Mark Langford
N56ML "at" hiwaay.net
website at http://www.N56ML.com


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17:53

KR> Plexiglas Spray Lat Removal

[Peter Drake]

I suggest after you have sanded it down to 2000 grit, you polish it with 
fine paint cutting compound like T-cut. I have used this to restore 
scratched CDs, it works well.
Peter Drake
- Original Message - 
From: <mplane...@aol.com>
To: <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2009 11:52 PM
Subject: Re: KR> Plexiglas Spray Lat Removal



On the subject, mine is also RR 1997, but I have a nice scratch in the 
center, fairly deep appx. 1" long. Anyone have a way to fix it?

KR> the weather

[Peter Drake]

The problem is that we have forntal weather here the majority of the time, 
and whilst it is possible to predict what is going to happen it is almost 
impossible to predict where and when because the warm fronts that come from 
the Southwest off the Atlantic vary in speed and direction. The UK met 
office do use radar, but I don't know what type.
Was the fly-in at Popham good this year? I was hoping to go myself but other 
things got in the way, not least the weather!
Peter Drake
Hereford UK
- Original Message - 
From: "Mark Langford" <n5...@hiwaay.net>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>; "Corvair engines for homebuilt aircraft" 
<corvaircr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Monday, May 04, 2009 12:53 AM
Subject: KR> the weather


You folks in the US really have it made when it comes to weather prediction. 
A day or two out you can be pretty confident that the forecast will be 
pretty close, but here in the UK, they really have no idea.  Twenty four 
hours is a total crap shoot, and it's beyond me why they even attempt to 
predict a week in advance.  Mark Langford
N56ML "at" hiwaay.net
website at http://www.N56ML.com


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KR> English Langford

[Peter Drake]

We don't all talk like Biggles over here!
Peter Drake

- Original Message - 
From: "Mark Jones" <flyk...@charter.net>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2009 3:15 PM
Subject: KR> English Langford


>- Original Message - 
>From: "Mark Langford

>Cheerio!

Must be what you had for breakfast "Ole Chap".

Mark Jones (N886MJ)
Stevens Point, WI
E-mail: flyk...@charter.net
Web: www.flykr2s.com



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KR> Re: Inspection

[Peter Drake]

Dave
Yes I have used it throughout the wings and tail. I know its not called for 
in the plans. I took this project over from a friend who had already planned 
to use the blue. He is a glider man and they use it a lot. I have also been 
looking at the construction of the Europa which also uses it very 
sucessfully. The only drawbacks I can see are its incompatability with fuel 
and its harder to work. The plus is its very strong.
The seat is supported on 4 ribs which go down to the floor, and a spruce 
cross member. I also intend to make some ribs to make it more rigid with 
extra layers of BID where it rests on the main ribs.
I didn't use carbon fibre because my budget could not stretch to it.
Peter
- Original Message - 
From: "Dave Arbogast, CISSP" 
To: "KRnet" 
Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2009 3:17 AM
Subject: Re: KR> Re: Inspection


Did you use styrofoam any place else in your plane ? Its not called for
in the plans. Also, do you think 1 layer of BID on either side will
support 1,500 pounds ?

Several guys has posted nice seats made with carbon fiber,
-dave

> <>...I have also been making the seat, with blue styrofoam and a layer
> of bid
> both sides...
>
>
>
>
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KR> Inspection

[Peter Drake]

Robin
I am using the Dr Dean hinges on the rudder, and the engineer expressed 
concern that the lateral forces on the rod end needed to be resisted. 
Thoroughly over the top, but a small price to pay. I am going to have to 
seal the inside of the blocks very carefully to avoid them being a corrosion 
trap. I used AN3 bolts.
Peter
- Original Message - 
From: "Robin Macdonald" <r.macdon...@clear.net.nz>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2009 8:20 PM
Subject: Re: KR> Inspection


Peter,

What was the reasoning behind the hardwood blooks, in the orignal RR only
use 0.90 aluminium.

What was the dia of the bolts that held the rod ends onto the spars
, I want to use 3/16th dia.

Robin.


- Original Message -
From: "Peter Drake" <p...@kingsland.uk.com>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: 6 February 2009 11:32 AM
Subject: KR> Inspection


Just had my inspector here. He has signed off all the gluing and foaming and
the dr Dean hinges on my rudder. I have been made to put hardwood blocks to
support the stem of the rod ends see photos on my website
www.peterskr2s.co.uk. All my other mods have been approved.
I have also been making the seat, with blue styrofoam and a layer of bid
both sides, it is fantastically strong and very light. photos soon.
I'll soon be able to start glassing the tail and wings, when the weather
gets a bit warmer.

Peter Drake
Hereford UK
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KR> Inspection

[Peter Drake]

Hi Barry
I agree with you. However we operate in a very different environment here 
and these blocks were specified by the chief engineer of the LAA, so I had 
no choice but to comply. The inspector is just there to check that it has 
been done as specified.
Peter
- Original Message - 
From: "Barry Kruyssen" 
To: "'KRnet'" 
Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2009 10:14 PM
Subject: RE: KR> Inspection


Hi Peter

I don't think your inspector was thinking. That rod end is many times

KR> Re: Inspection

[Peter Drake]

Thanks Sid.
I am going to be very careful to seal any edges to avoid fuel dissolving the 
foam. I am using West System epoxy which seems to work very well with it.
The reason we used it is that it is used quite a lot for gliders and the 
Europa is made with it to very good effect. Although it is harder to work, 
(shaping the wings was exhausting and included a shoulder operation!) it is 
much stronger than PU foam.
We are going for an aluminium tank mounted behind the firewall, so fuel 
spillage onto the wings is less likely to be an issue.
I have got a very heavy Grove one piece landing gear which has 3 equally 
heavy mounting brackets. As weight is a serious issue because I am 
restricted to 1100lbs max, I have been looking at the Deihl gear, however it 
looks a little short for operating out of bumpy farm strips. Does anyone 
know if they do it with longer legs to avoid prop strikes?
Peter Drake
Hereford UK

- Original Message - 
From: "smwood" <smw...@md.metrocast.net>
To: <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2009 3:22 AM
Subject: KR> Re: Inspection


Peter,
Take care not to spill any fuel on the styrofoam; gasoline will dissolve


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KR> Inspection

[Peter Drake]

Just had my inspector here. He has signed off all the gluing and foaming and 
the dr Dean hinges on my rudder. I have been made to put hardwood blocks to 
support the stem of the rod ends see photos on my website www.peterskr2s.co.uk. 
All my other mods have been approved.
I have also been making the seat, with blue styrofoam and a layer of bid both 
sides, it is fantastically strong and very light. photos soon.
I'll soon be able to start glassing the tail and wings, when the weather gets a 
bit warmer.

Peter Drake
Hereford UK

KR> A master list of weight-saving build techniques?

[Peter Drake]

I didnt say that solid mahogany was not strong enough. However the 
"mahogany" used in Far Eastern plywood which is what you will buy down at 
the depot is a mixture of species which are mostly Mahogany substitutes 
which are not a strong as real Honduras or Brazilian Mahogany.
Peter Drake
- Original Message - 
From: "Randy Smith" <crz...@yahoo.com>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2009 12:46 PM
Subject: Re: KR> A master list of weight-saving build techniques?


Don't tell that to my to Bellanca's in the hanger. 1 is a 1947 and the other 
a 1974. The wing is all Mahogany. On the 47 they used 1/8 4 feet out and 
3/32 the rest of the way. On the 74 it is 1/4 4 feet out and 1/16 the rest 
of the way. The airplane does not have any record of a wing departing the 
plane.

KR> A master list of weight-saving build techniques?

[Peter Drake]

Rick
 I would agree with all of that except the mahogany ply. It does not have 
anything like the strength of Birch.
We are not allowed to use it structurally in the UK because of this.
Peter Drake
Hereford UK
- Original Message - 
From: <rahu...@peoplepc.com>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2009 5:07 PM
Subject: Re: KR> A master list of weight-saving build techniques?


Rob Priddy wrote: "Which woods/foams/glass are the lightest variants that
could still be structurally sufficient? Those are the things I'm looking
for. Techniques that lighten it, not money spent that lightens it."

KR> acetone in epoxy mixes

[Peter Drake]

Dont drink Methylated spirits it is methyl alcohol which makes you go blind!
Peter Drake
Hereford, England.
- Original Message - 
From: "Phil Matheson" <phillipmathe...@bigpond.com>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2007 2:06 AM
Subject: Re: KR> acetone in epoxy mixes


> Mentholated Sprits ( think you in US land call it Rubbing Alcohol)is 
> really
> good for thinning and cleaning epoxy. Works very well when thinned to fill
> pin holes,being alcohol,  some even mix with juice and drink it (BUT 
> please
> not before a flight)
>
> But seriously, it works well.
>
>
> Phil Matheson
> SAAA Ch. 20
> VH-PKR
> Australia

KR> Web hosting

[Peter Drake]

Hi can anyone recommend a free website service so I can put some pics up for 
you guys to have a look at?

Peter Drake

KR> Fw: Pushrod ends

[Peter Drake]

Hi
I saw a post recently which suggested using RV pushrod ends. I have a friend 
building an RV9 and I am using a similar setup.
I have machined up a set of inserts for both the 1.5" elevator secondary rod 
and for the .75" tube I am using for the ailerons etc. My question is what 
spec. rivets should I use to fix the inserts into the tubes?

Peter Drake
Hereford UK

KR> Fw: Pushrod ends

[Peter Drake]

Thanks Ed
I finally found them in the LAS Catalogue (UK agents for ACS) under another 
more complicated code.
Why cant they make these things more simple!
Peter Drake
- Original Message - 
From: "Ed Jeffko" <riovi...@bossig.com>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2007 11:25 PM
Subject: Re: KR> Fw: Pushrod ends


> Peter
>
> My Glasiar is similar and it uses MSP 42 pull rivets, 4 on each end, 90
> dedrees apart.   They are listed in ACS catalog and come in different
> lengths.   Hope this helps.
>
> Ed

KR> Dr Dean Hinges

[Peter Drake]

A question for Mark Langford:  The Dr Dean hinges you have used look like a 
really neat solution. However I have one query. How do you lock the bolt 
holding the MW3 Rod end in position?
All the others have self locking nuts, but there is no nut to lock here.

Peter Drake
Hereford UK

KR> Dr Dean Hinges

[Peter Drake]

It seems that epoxy is the way to go. I was wondering if Loctite on the 
threads would be acceptable.

Peter
> Hi Peter
>
> I am using dean hinges and I have locked the bolt in position by
> gluing them with t88 and flox.
> the hime joint mw3 is held in position by the I bolt which I have
> also glued in position with nuts and washers of course.
>
> Mr. Jones what's your two cents here?
>
>
> Keith and Martha Crawford
> mar...@simerson.net
> http://martha.simerson.net

KR> Pushrods and NACA ducts

[Peter Drake]

Pete
I am looking at using a pushrod for my elevator control. It is about 78" 
long.
I can get carbon fibre tube  29.3mm od.
Do you think that would be suitable or might I get away with a smaller 
diameter?
Would the end connections made of steel tube inserts riveted on, with a 
threaded hole to take a rod end be suitable?
The weight saving over T45 or 4130 would be significant.

Peter Drake
Hereford UK

- Original Message - 
From: "Pete Diffey" <pe...@heroic.co.uk>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 1:30 AM
Subject: Re: KR> Pushrods and NACA ducts


> If anyone feels the need to make long pushrods, then make them out of
> pultruded carbon fibre - very light and much stiffer than 4130.

KR> KR Info site update

[Peter Drake]

A question for Mark Langford
I am using a similar elevator linkage set up to yours with rods & cables. 
Did you use any kind of bushing where the bellcranks pivot on the bolt?
and what lever arm distances for the cable shackles and rod linkages were on 
these bellcranks?
Thanks
Peter Drake
Hereford UK
peterdr...@kingslandstabling.com 

KR> Elevator linkages

[Peter Drake]

Hi Guys
I have decided to go with Mark L's system for the elevator linkages with a 
combination of rods & cables. However I have one area of concern. If you use 
shackles both ends to attach the cables to the bellcranks, the cables rub at 
the centre where they cross, is this acceptable or is there another way 
round it?

Peter Drake
Hereford UK

KR> Gorilla Glue/Urethane Glue results

[Peter Drake]

Steve
I have been using PU glue for sticking blue styrofoam to wood with very good
results as long as it is used very sparingly and you have good face
contacts. However the strength of the bond between foam and wood is limited
by the glueline thickness and because of the foaming it would be too great
for wood to wood structural joints, my advice: stick to the proven systems
eg. T88 or Aerolite.

Peter Drake
Hereford UK

-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
Behalf Of Steve Jacobs
Sent: 30 August 2006 15:39
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: KR> Gorilla Glue/Urethane Glue results


> I took a damp cloth and wiped both sides of the capstrip to dampen the
> wood, as this glue needs moisture to activate it. I put a bead of glue on
> the
> surface of one side (not both sides like epoxy) of the strip and used a 1"
> brush to spread it evenly across the 3/4" surface.

++

I learned something in the early hours of this nice day (about polyurethane
adhesives) that really bothers me.  It has been on my mind (since the recent
discussion) that experienced and knowledgeable netters had also done some
testing of their own - and were not impressed - why?

I was attaching a doubler to a fuselage longeron.  The joint offered plenty
glue area (my psi logic) so I used the polyU.  I have been following the
Forest Products recommended procedure of applying glue both sides, rubbing
together and leaving things open for a few minutes.  This was a mistake on
the day, I guess the RH was just to high.  Everything looked good until I
started clamping up.  By chance I noted a gap (maybe 1/32") and came back
increasing the clamping pressure on all of the clamps.  I say by chance
because as we know, once this glue comes fizzing out of the joint, it hides
the gap unless you wipe and look.

No amount of clamping closed the gap, I assumed that I had something trapped
in there (could not imagine what?) so the messy task of de-clamping and
opening.  There was nothing other than glue?  Presumably a core of the
expanding "film" of glue actually was resisting my efforts to close the gap.

>From my tests I know, ANY gap just leads to a weak joint, so I checked the
other side (glued the day before) - same story.  I shut down the shop and
came to work - another messy task tonight!!

For those that use PolyU, be aware of this tendency /possibility - probably
when there is plenty moisture in the air.

Steve J
South Africa


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KR> (no subject)

[Peter Drake]

Hi Guys
I have got my wing spars all set up and wonder if it would be a good idea  
to give them a coat of epoxy before I glue any foam on. will the epoxy  
weaken any bonds, and will it cause any problems later when I start  
glassing?

-- 
Peter Drake

Hereford UK

KR> CAD Software

[Peter Drake]

Hi

Microsoft Visio is idiot proof! Although it is only 2D.
I use it for my business as well as my KR

Peter
On Tue, 02 May 2006 03:50:41 +0100, Bill Johnson  wrote:

> KR Netters (especially you CAD guys):
> This question is a two-parter: 1) What CAD software do you use and, 2)  
> What
> would you recommend for a new CAD user / KR builder?

KR> Engines

[Peter Drake]

Hi Tim

We've been thinking of a Jab6 for our KR2S. Here in the UK we are  
restricted to 500 KG MAUW and the Corvair is too heavy for us to have a  
meaningful payload. The downside is the cost, so the Rotax 912 looks more  
likely for us.

Peter
Hereford UK

On Tue, 14 Feb 2006 15:05:01 -, Tim Haynes  wrote:

> Hi Guys
>
> I have had a good look at Marks Corvair Engine information. Other than  
> cost what is the advantage of using the Corvair 2700 100 hp (realizing  
> they can be developed to put out more power) over the Rotax 100 and  
> 115hp which are a both much lighter engine. 62.6kg and 70kg respectively.
>
> Regards,
>
> Tim
> t...@dodo.com.au
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Réf. : Re: KR> "Mil" as in MILIMETERS off topic

[Peter Drake]

Well mostly!
We still buy our lumber in metric feet!

Peter Drake
Hereford UK

On Sat, 14 Jan 2006 17:56:06 -, Serge VIDAL <serge.vi...@sagem.com>  
wrote:

> Well, Frank, the Brits did it! They switched to metric in 1965, and never
> looked back! Why did they do it? Well, simply because their industry
> needed to import from and export to Europe.
> So, you're right, as long as America ain't "broke" (pun intended), no  
> need
> to start fixing... ; - )
>
> Serge
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Frank Ross <alamo...@yahoo.com>
>
> Envoyé par : krnet-bounces+serge.vidal=sagem@mylist.net
> 14/01/2006 16:47
> Veuillez répondre à KRnet
> Remis le : 14/01/2006 16:47
>
>Pour :  KRnet <kr...@mylist.net>
> cc :(ccc : Serge VIDAL/DNSA/SAGEM)
> Objet : Re: KR> "Mil" as in MILIMETERS off topic
>
>
>
> Thanks Serge, I'll try to be more careful about my
> spelling. :=]
> For sixty-five years I thought I was speaking English;
> then I came to England...
> All too true, Serge, it's just that as an American
> living in England the last two years, I realized the
> English and Australians (and probably New Zealanders
> as well) use the word "mil" when they are talking
> about millimeters and most Americans wouldn't know
> this.
> I think the metric system is a wonderful thing, but I
> have a house full of tools, measuring devices,
> cookbooks, etc., that I'd have to throw out to switch
> over. Is it worth it? All the traffic signs in the US
> (and maybe someplace else in the world, but I think we
> are the only ones left using this wonderful, but
> archaic system) would have to be discarded and
> replaced, billions of dollars. Is is worth it? And, we
> now have the confusion of people converting not only
> from Knots to MPH but kilometers as well, for what
> purpose? Then there's the altitude in meters when so
> much of our existing equipment is still in feet. Will
> it stop? Not until everything new is metric and
> everyone is ready to throw away everything they are
> using.
> I know it'll change someday, but I still say "If it
> ain't broke, why fix it?"
> Cheers,
> Frank
>
> --- Serge VIDAL <serge.vi...@sagem.com> wrote:
>
>> All the more so that "millimeter" can be abbreviated
>> only one way, and
>> that's "mm". Moreover, "millimeter" is spelled with
>> two "l".
>>
>> You see, the Metric system was designed in the 18th
>> century by the same
>> chaps that inspired the American constitution: the
>> Encyclopaedists.These
>> guys had a good sense of organization, and they made
>> the entire system
>> confusion-proof and absolutely consistent. Think of
>> that: they wanted the
>> absolute reference from which all other measures are
>> derived (the meter)
>> to come from something also absolute. They thought
>> Planet Earth would be
>> good enough as a reference. So, they started by
>> measuring... the Earth's
>> circumference (meridien) (an ambitious feat at that
>> time!), and they
>> divided it to get a practical, "yard-size" measure.
>> So, at that time, the
>> meter was "the ten-millionth part of the quarter of
>> the Earth's meridian".
>>
>> The amazing thing is their measurement of the Earth
>> came right by a
>> handful of miles.
>>
>> These guys were so obsessed with invention and
>> precision, they would have
>> deserved to become KR builders!
>>
>> Serge Vidal
>> KR2 "Kilimanjaro Cloud"
>> Paris, France
>
>
> __
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> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
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>
>
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Réf. : Re: KR> "Mil" as in MILIMETERS off topic

[Peter Drake]

  In the UK Lumber is sold in multiples of 0.3m which is the nearest round  
metric measurement to 1 ft which is 0.3048m. It is also the same for all  
the lumber cross sections, they are all to the nearest metric equivalent  
eg. 1" = 25mm.
On the continent they use a completely different set of standard  
dimensions. So we havent really gone metric at all!
Hee Hee!

Peter Drake

On Mon, 16 Jan 2006 17:22:49 -, Joachim Saupe  
<jsaupe6...@earthlink.net> wrote:

> What are metric feet?
> Joachim
>
>
>> [Original Message]
>> From: Peter Drake <peterdr...@kingslandstabling.com>
>> To: KRnet <kr...@mylist.net>
>> Date: 1/16/2006 3:15:01 AM
>> Subject: Re: Réf. : Re: KR> "Mil" as in MILIMETERS off topic
>>
>> Well mostly!
>> We still buy our lumber in metric feet!
>>
>> Peter Drake
>> Hereford UK
>
>
>



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KR> Merry Christmas

[Peter Drake]

Merry Christmas to all you KRnuts across the pond.
WAF problems sorted out. Starting on controls over the holidays.
A prosperous New Year to you all.

Peter Drake
Hereford UK

KR> WAFs revisited

[Peter Drake]

Ron
Whilst I have no problem with the original design of the WAFS used in both 
the KR2 and KR2S. The PFA (our EAA) have stipulated a mandatory modified WAF 
arrangement  for the KR2s which I mentioned on the net a couple of months 
back which has doubled 16g heat treated s515 plates as well as exrta AN4 
bolts through ally bushes thro the spars (I can send you a drawing if you 
like). Thier justification for it is that the increased stresses induced by 
the increased dimensions of the KR2S push the KR2 WAF design too close to 
the limit. I am inclined to say "if it aint broke why fix it?", but this is 
what we have to put up with over here.
Peter Drake
Hereford UK

- Original Message - 
From: "Ron Freiberger" <ronandmar...@earthlink.net>
To: "'KRnet'" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Monday, December 05, 2005 5:51 PM
Subject: KR> WAFs revisited


> Designing an airplane is a lot like designing a chain, but more
> repetitive.  The goal is to have ALL of the parts equally strong.  What
> is there about the WAFs that suggests they are a weak link?
>
> Ron Freiberger
> mail to ronandmar...@earthlink.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
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> ---
>
>
>
>
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> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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>
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---

Fw: KR> control movement for airlerons

[Peter Drake]

- Original Message - 
From: Mac McConnell-Wood 
To: peterdr...@kingslandstabling.com 
Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 10:05 AM
Subject: RE: KR> control movement for airlerons


Peter, Sympathies are with you over the WAF's -The PFA are great at reinventing 
the wheel! I recall some of the comments by a PFA "Engineer" when they looked 
at my KR2. Didn't seem to grasp the concept that KR engineering had been 
scrutinised by FAA engineers for 30 odd years.   The following message was in 
reply to another member ,but I think it dissappeared down the black hole that 
all my e/m's to the net seem to go down - would you fwd it please.
  RegardsMac

Steven , I used the basic /original aileron system . The problem I had 
obtaining full aileron travel was resolved when I checked the distance between 
the aileron hinge and the the horn bolt hole center . It has to be 2.5" max . 
If any longer than that you won't get full range of movement.  This dimension 
was omitted on my drawings but they are Very Old!

 Cheers   MacUK  macw...@hotmail.co.uk




--

  From:  Steven Phillabaum 
  Reply-To:  KRnet 
  To:  
  Subject:  KR> control movement for airlerons
  Date:  Sun, 4 Dec 2005 13:04:21 -0500
  >I am using the Dual stick design I.E. Langford.
  >Just put the assemble together for the welder. I noticed that the shuttle 
rod movement may only be 1.75". (This would be the aileron movement at the 
cable contact for those that don't know of the system).  For those whom used 
this same set up I would like to know if this is OK?  or Should I redo? I Might 
be able to tweek it to get 2" of travel but no more.
  >
  >Steven Phillabaum
  >KR2S; 5048; corvair;
  >Auburn, Alabama
  >
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  >to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
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--- 





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KR> KR2 wing removal

[Peter Drake]

Pete
To make KR2 wings easily removable would require a fairly major 
modification. The PFA dont like KR's anyway so a mod of this kind would a 
fairly big hurdle to cross...

Peter Drake
Hereford UK

- Original Message - 
From: "Peter Diffey" <pe...@heroic.co.uk>
To: <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Monday, November 14, 2005 10:39 PM
Subject: KR> KR2 wing removal


Hi,

I am just in the process of buying a KR2, and one of the big attractions
is being able to easily remove the wings.

My current a/c is stored 45 mins from home, and needs 30 mins to extract
from the hangar, so being able to fly from a strip 10 miutes from the
house is very attractive, plus it will save me £1300 a year.

My question is how realist is it to take the wings off, how long do they
take to fit, how often do you need to replace the bolts, and does this
lead to hole elongation. I am figuring on leaving the wings on through
the high summer months, and on/off at weekends in spring and fall.

It's not gonna stop me going ahead with the purchase if you guys think
it is a bad plan, just alter the economics a bit.

Pete Diffey

St Albans just north of  London  - under the Luton Airport TMA for any
guys who know the area.

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---

KR> WAF's

[Peter Drake]

Should you varnish the wood before sticking foam to it? I would have thought 
it might not bond so well with a layer of varnish in between.
Peter Drake
Hereford England
- Original Message - 
From: "Orma" <o...@aviation-mechanics.com>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 29, 2005 10:44 PM
Subject: Re: KR> WAF's


> At a minimum you should seal the wood with spar varnish.
> Orma
> Southfield, MI
> KR-2  N110LR  1984
> See Tweety at http://www.kr-2.aviation-mechanics.com
> See other KR spces at www.kr-2.aviation-mechanics.com/krinfo.htm
>
>
>
> ___
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> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> ---
>
> 

---

KR> Control cables/rudder springs

[Peter Drake]

Springs it is then!
Peter
- Original Message - 
From: "larry flesner" <fles...@midwest.net>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 4:07 PM
Subject: KR> Control cables/rudder springs


>
>>Have you any opions on the merits of return springs  on the pedals against 
>>a
>>cable run around?
>>Peter Drake
> ++
>
> I used springs like Mark Jones and with 170 hours on the KR it
> seems to work well.  It just seemed like an easier build at the
> time vs. the cable loop.
>
> Larry Flesner
>
>
>
> ___
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> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> ---
>
> 

KR> Control cables

[Peter Drake]

Hi all
What diameter cable should I use for rudder controls. I cant find this info on 
any of the plans or the manual, or should I just get new glasses!

Peter Drake
Hereford UK

KR> Control cables

[Peter Drake]

Thanks for that.
Have you any opions on the merits of return springs  on the pedals against a 
cable run around?

Peter Drake
Hereford UK

- Original Message - 
From: "Mark Jones" <mjo...@muellersales.com>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 1:17 PM
Subject: RE: KR> Control cables


> That is correct and all the control cables are 3/32x7x19.
>
> Mark Jones (N886MJ)
> Wales, WI
> Visit my web site: http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj
> Email: flyk...@wi.rr.com

Re: Réf. : KR> Bellcranks

[Peter Drake]

Serge
Are you using a push rod system for aileron and/or elevator?
If so I would like to see your drawings if possible
Thanks
Peter Drake
Hereford UK

- Original Message - 
From: "Serge VIDAL" <serge.vi...@sagem.com>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 9:22 AM
Subject: Réf. : KR> Bellcranks


Bob,

For the aileron bellcranks, I did exactly like for all other aluminium
parts I make. I redrew the part under Microsoft Powerpoint. I use
Powerpoint as the poor man's CAD package. The dimension of each Powerpoint
object (line, square, circle...) can be specified accurately, and
everything can be aligned and centered at will, so it works well and quick
for simple shapes.  By experience, I found the prints to be accurate to a
fraction of millimeter, which is more than OK for sheet metal. I usually
print on sticker labels (but standard paper and glue would work the same),
glue to the aluminium, then cut and drill following the drawing. I then
remove the paper with acetone.

So, if you are interested, I have a Powerpoint template of the aileron
bellcrank, as well as most other flight controls parts.


Serge Vidal
KR2 "Kilimùanjaro Cloud"
Paris, France





glid...@ccrtc.com

Envoyé par : krnet-boun...@mylist.net
2005-09-21 21:07
Veuillez répondre à KRnet
Remis le : 2005-09-21 21:08


Pour :  kr...@mylist.net
cc :(ccc : Serge VIDAL/DNSA/SAGEM)
Objet : KR> Bellcranks



Netters
Doe's anyone have any drawing for the bellcranks for the ailerons that are
better then the ones on the plans.Please email me them if you do at
glid...@ccrtc.com thanks in advanceBob

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---

KR> Pushtube control

[Peter Drake]

Colin
This looks very similar to what I'm planning to do for the elevator. As far 
as I could see you stuck to the original cable design for the ailerons is 
this correct? Have you any opinions on the merits of rod connections for the 
ailerons?
Peter
- Original Message - 
From: "Colin Rainey" 
To: 
Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 1:56 PM
Subject: KR> Pushtube control


> Peter
> I have push tube control for my KR2 from the dual stick assembly all the 
> way to the elevator horn with a transfer bell crank approximately 12 
> inches behind the seat/rear spar.  It is also drilled to allow for the 
> same and reduced deflection with same total movement at the elevator, but 
> more at the stick to de-tune the sensitivity of the KR elevator.  I really 
> like how positive it feels, and am reassured with each pre-flight that I 
> made a good choice.  Pictures are on the web page, on the krnet.
>
>
> Colin Rainey
> brokerpilot9...@earthlink.net
> EarthLink Revolves Around You.
> ___
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> ---
>
> 

KR> Control System

[Peter Drake]

Has anyone got a design for a rod aileron control system, for KR2s?

Peter

KR> Re: Engine CHT temps

[Peter Drake]

  - Original Message - 
  From: Mac McConnell-Wood 
  To: peterdr...@kingslandstabling.com 
  Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 8:57 PM
  Subject: Engine CHT temps


  Peter,  Can you ask the group what are acceptable CHT temps for a 
Revmaster/VW, .I have a Revmaster running at the bottom end of the green scale 
i.e 300 deg f ,and my test pilot reckons it's too low , and won't fly it ! 
  For some reason I can't post to the KR net directly since I changed to 
Hotmail  . 
 Regards  , Mac.
  macw...@hotmail.co.ukG-BVZJ 
  --- 

KR> Procedure to cover glass cloth on foam.

[Peter Drake]

I have seen "peel-ply" mentioned several times. What is it?

Peter
- Original Message - 
From: "Ron Eason" 
To: "KRnet" 
Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 9:51 PM
Subject: Re: KR> Procedure to cover glass cloth on foam.


> Their is some variations to the following procedure but basically it's
> standard.
> I have added the following steps in my practice.
> 2a. I allow the slurry to cure.
> 2b. Sand and fill voids, sand and smooth out surfaces to near final 
> finish.
> 4a.Add peal-ply cloth over the fiberglass.
> If you want to have a superior finish these my help.
> You will eventually find what is best for your taste after a few tries.
> KRRon
>

KR> Epoxy

[Peter Drake]

Can anyone tell me what is the best type of epoxy to stick Polystyrene foam to 
wood?
I have tried builders gapfilling foam from an aerosol. It sticks wonderfully 
but because of its expanding properties it tends to distort structures.

Peter

KR> Epoxy

[Peter Drake]

Larry
Do you mean the stuff out of a gun?
Peter
- Original Message - 
From: "larry flesner" 
To: "KRnet" 
Sent: Monday, August 15, 2005 3:18 PM
Subject: Re: KR> Epoxy


> At 02:56 PM 8/15/05 +0100, you wrote:
>>Can anyone tell me what is the best type of epoxy to stick Polystyrene
> foam to wood?
>>Peter
> 
> 
> Have you tried "hot glue" ?  The foam really only needs to be
> held in place to complete the shaping and wet layup process at
> which point it is bonded to the glass.
> 
> Larry Flesner
> 
> 
> 
> ___
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> 
>

KR> Epoxy

[Peter Drake]

I tried hot glue last night. AAARGH! I'm using Blue Styrofoam - it melts 
it!
I like the sound of Elmers polyurethane glue only we dont get Elmers here in 
the UK. So I'm looking for an equivalent available here. Any ideas?
Peter
- Original Message - 
From: 
To: 
Sent: Monday, August 15, 2005 6:45 PM
Subject: Re: KR> Epoxy


>I used "Elmer's" ultimate glue. It's polyurethane. It's water activated and
> easy to work with. Like all products in this category it does have some 
> draw
> backs though as the bonding seam is a little hard to sand as compared to
> sanding  the bonded foam. Overall though I have been very pleased with the 
> results.
> The  best thing about it is that you can find it at any good lumber and
> building  supply store for about $13.00 to $14.00 dollars U.S.(16 fl oz.) 
> I found
> it  here in Louisiana at "Home Depot".
>
> ___
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> ---
>
> 

KR> Epoxy

[Peter Drake]

Ron and All
Thank you all for your kind suggestions. It has been very helpful. I have 
found a source of Gorilla Polyurethane glue and have ordered some!
Thanks All
Peter
- Original Message - 
From: "Ron Eason" 
To: "KRnet" 
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2005 2:58 PM
Subject: Re: KR> Epoxy


> Gorilla is another manufacture of this product. Any product that says it's
> Urethane.
> Ron
> - Original Message - 
> From: 
> To: 
> Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2005 8:28 AM
> Subject: Re: KR> Epoxy
>
>
>> Peter, I've contacted Elmer's and was only able to leave a message on
>> their
>> phone answering machine. They have a terrible web site in regards to 
>> their
>> information about distribution. I think as big a product that Elmer's has
>> been
>> here it surely should have an outlet there. If I get a response from them
>> I
>> will  pass it on to you. This glue has great gapping qualities and 
>> holding
>> power
>> for  foam to foam and foam to wood or even foam and wood to metals. It is
>> however  considered non structural.
>> ___
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>> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>>
>>
>
>
>
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>
> 

KR> Starting the adventure!

[Peter Drake]

Hi Cris
I am in the UK. Perhaps we should start a Euro KR builders club?
I took over a part built KR2s which had many modifications, some documented 
some not.
I dont know the system in Italy, but homebuilding is very strictly regulated 
in the UK and you will need to register your project with the Italian 
version of the PFA who may stipulate certain mods to make it acceptable to 
them. I think it is unlikely that they will be as strict as ours but it is 
worth checking.
I am finding building a very stimulating experience and I have learnt a lot 
already. The advice given by others to look at as many builders sites as 
possible is very sound.
Good Luck
Peter
- Original Message - 
From: "Cris." 
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2005 6:19 PM
Subject: KR> Starting the adventure!


> Hi all.
> Thanks, Mark for adding me to the list!
>
> So, folks, my name is Cristiano, 42 year old, writing from Rome, Italy. I
> fly an SG-Aviation Storm 280 SI, I own it together with two nice friends,
> but I want to start a homebuilding. I'll move to a new house in 2006, a 
> huge
> garage available, and the dream could come true. I think I can do it and
> after all I'm going to discover it by myself!
>
> Then, my adventure is starting, decision has been taken for KR2S and my 
> very
> little problem is... getting the plans!
>
> I faxed some questions to Rand Robinson but wasn't faxed back. I really 
> hope
> that if I read on their site to "fax requests" it brings as a consequence
> that they are going to fax me back, but maybe I have missed something and
> won't blame anyone, I'm new to the game :-)
>
> Assuming I want to build the plane even if I received no response, how do 
> I
> order the plans? Calling by phone is not a good idea. My english tends 
> to...
> decay when I'm on the phone and writing is the best option, at the moment.
> So I could request the plans and send the money according to what's 
> written
> in the KR site, but... how do I send it?
>
> As you may understand I'm in trouble starting the whole thing. Any help is
> welcome.
>
> Ciao!
>
> Cristiano (Roma - Italy)
> e-mail: flyi...@gmail.com
>
> -- 
> If it has wheels, tits or a propeller, sooner or later it's bound to give
> you trouble.
> ___
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>
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.10.0/63 - Release Date: 03/08/2005
>
> 

KR> WAF

[Peter Drake]

Larry
I took over this project after the mods had been approved. I am not entirely 
sure what the rationale behind the strengthened WAFs was, however I will 
enquire with the previous owner and let you know.
Peter
- Original Message - 
From: "larry flesner" 
To: "KRnet" 
Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2005 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: KR> WAF


>
>>I have increased the centre section of the wing by 6" overall and 
>>shortened
>>the outboard sections by the same amount.
> . To gain approval
>>from the PFA (UK inspection organisation) we had to use a modified WAF
>>Peter
> +++
>
> Peter,
>
> I think I'm missing something very basic here.  If you increased the span
> of the center section and decreased the span of the outer panels, wouldn't
> that make the load on the WAF LESS, not more?  If so, why did they
> have you increase the strength?
>
> Curious minds want to know !!  :-)
>
> Larry Flesner
>
>
>
> ___
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> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
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>
>
>
>
> -- 
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> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.9.2/53 - Release Date: 20/07/2005
>
> 

KR> WAF

[Peter Drake]

Mark
I agree with you, but here in the UK we have an organisation called the CAA 
("campaign against aviation" otherwise known as the Civil Aviation 
Authority) who are hell bent on specifying homebuilds out of existence! They 
have recently tightened the regulations so much that modifications should 
only be undertaken if you have a lot of patience and time.
Peter
- Original Message - 
From: "Mark Langford" 
To: "KRnet" 
Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2005 2:10 PM
Subject: Re: KR> WAF


> Larry Flesner wrote:
>
>> I think I'm missing something very basic here.  If you increased the span
>> of the center section and decreased the span of the outer panels, 
>> wouldn't
>> that make the load on the WAF LESS, not more?  If so, why did they
>> have you increase the strength?
>
> I wondered the same thing, and decided it was so the inspector could feel
> like a big-shot.  That connection is so strong that people crash planes 
> and
> they're still intact...
>
> Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama
> see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford
> email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net
>
>
> ___
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>
>
>
> -- 
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> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
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>
> 

KR> WAF

[Peter Drake]

Pat
Increasing the outer sections would be yet another modification and knowing 
the PFA they would have required the WAFS to be stronger still, along with 
the spars!

Peter
- Original Message - 
From: "patrusso" 
To: "KRnet" 
Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2005 7:09 PM
Subject: Re: KR> WAF


> Pete
> Gotta agree with larry on this one, but I have another question; why 
> bother
> to decrease the lenght of the outer panels?  A little extra lift wont 
> hurt.
> Would the accompanying drag more than off set this?
> Pat
> - Original Message - 
> From: "larry flesner" 
> To: "KRnet" 
> Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2005 8:27 AM
> Subject: Re: KR> WAF
>
>
>>
>>>I have increased the centre section of the wing by 6" overall and
>>>shortened
>>>the outboard sections by the same amount.
>> . To gain approval
>>>from the PFA (UK inspection organisation) we had to use a modified WAF
>>>Peter
>> +++
>>
>> Peter,
>>
>> I think I'm missing something very basic here.  If you increased the span
>> of the center section and decreased the span of the outer panels, 
>> wouldn't
>> that make the load on the WAF LESS, not more?  If so, why did they
>> have you increase the strength?
>>
>> Curious minds want to know !!  :-)
>>
>> Larry Flesner
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
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>> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>
>
> ___
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>
>
>
> -- 
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> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.9.2/55 - Release Date: 21/07/2005
>
> 

KR> ailerons

[Peter Drake]

Lee
I wondered about this point. I was considering perhaps inserting blocks 
between the strip that holds the piano hinge and the rear spar to ensure a 
more solid mounting. Has anyone done it like this?
Peter Drake
Hereford UK.
- Original Message - 
From: "Lee Van Dyke" <l...@vandyke5.com>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2005 6:18 AM
Subject: KR> ailerons


> Netters
>
> Per the plans, there is no glass wrapped around the rear portion of the 
> wing sealing the wood for the aileron.  Am I correct???.  Has anybody had 
> a problem with that wood coming loose fron the foam??
> If you were me and wanted to secure the wood a little better, what would 
> be the easiest and best way to get it done???
>
> Lee Van Dyke
> Mesa AZ
> l...@vandyke5.com
> ___

KR> wood

[Peter Drake]

Hi Patrick
Aspen is a hardwood (as opposed to a coniferous softwood such as Sitka 
Spruce). It has a shorter fibre length and is thus not suitable for use 
where high tensile stresses are present. I would steer well clear.
Peter
- Original Message - 
From: 
To: "KR Net" 
Sent: Saturday, July 09, 2005 5:42 AM
Subject: KR> wood


> Has anyone tried Aspen wood in their aircraft? I searched the archives but 
> could find nothing on Aspen. I was looking for Douglas fir at the 
> lumberyard and saw some Aspen planks that had a very fine grain (about 18 
> lines per inch).
>   I'm not sure of the strength of this wood and wonder if it could be used 
> for the uprights between the longerons and maybe the intercostals between 
> the spar caps.
> Patrick Driscoll
> Saint Paul, MN
> patric...@usfamily.net
>
>
> --- http://USFamily.Net/dialup.html - $8.25/mo! --  
> http://www.usfamily.net/dsl.html - $19.99/mo! ---
> ___
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>
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.8.11/44 - Release Date: 08/07/2005
>
> 

KR> new pics

[Peter Drake]

I'm building an 's' and its not in mine. Much of the strength is in the 
ply...
However I like the idea, although I would have rounded the foam to give the 
fuselage a more voluptuous shape!
Peter Drake
- Original Message - 
From: "Robert L. Stone" <rsto...@hot.rr.com>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 1:06 PM
Subject: Re: KR> new pics


> Ron,
> It's been a good many years since I built so I was surprised to see
> foam being used on the fuselage.  When I built my KR-2 from 1976 to 1978 
> the
> fuselage was just spruce and plywood skin.  It looks like from the 
> pictures
> you are using foam and then glassing over it?  This is the way the plans
> called for building the tail feathers, upper fudelage and wings but not 
> the
> bottom fuselage.  Is this called for in the "S" plans or just your own
> design?
>
> Bob Stone, Harker Heights, Tex
> rsto...@hot.rr.com
>
>
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Ron Smith" <mercedesm...@yahoo.com>
> To: <kr...@mylist.net>; "ROGER" <rogerthres...@sbcglobal.net>; "Sandy"
> <sand...@comcast.net>; "sandy42" <sand...@attbi.com>
> Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 1:13 AM
> Subject: KR> new pics
>
>
>> Hello Knetters,
>>
>> I have some new pics for you
>>
>> http://ronsmith.myphotoalbum.com/albums.php
>>
>> Regards,
>> Ron Smith,
>> Cypress Ca, U.S.
>>
>> Kr2s boat stage
>>
>> ___
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>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>>
>
>
> ___
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>
>
>
> -- 
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KR> painting WAFs.

[Peter Drake]

Hi Harold
It was me who was asking about painting/rust proofing WAFs. That epoxy 
sounds interesting, I dont know whether we can get it in the UK. However I 
have discovered since that the requirement here is that I have them Cadmium 
plated first then epoxy primed or powdercoated. In fact someone told me that 
the RR ones come powder coated. I have found a company near Cardiff (Wales 
UK) who does cadmium plating to British defence standard - That'll do me! I 
will then probably epoxy prime them and finish with something like Hammerite 
which I think is similar to your Tremclad.
Thanks for your input
Peter Drake
- Original Message - 
From: "haroldwoods" <haroldwo...@rogers.com>
To: <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Friday, June 17, 2005 11:04 PM
Subject: KR> painting WAFs.



> Hi Netters,
> Some one recently asked about painting WAFs.  If you go and talk to your 
> local auto body repair shop you can ask them how they prepare metal for 
> painting. My local painter said that he now used " Green Epoxy Primer". He 
> thinks that it is the best thing that has happened in years. I bought a 
> can (very expensive), it works like a charm. Be sure that the metal is 
> free of oil &/ grease.Use a small syringe to measure out 5 or 10 ml of 
> epoxy and in my case an equal volume of hardener. It is very fluid, It 
> contains a solvent that rapidly evaporates, the epoxy cures in about an 
> hour. If there is any left in the mixture give the metal a second coat. 
> After the primer has cured (next day) , paint it with your favorite paint. 
> I use a rust proof enamel paint called Tremclad. It is a good rust proof 
> paint even without a primer. I can be applied to a rusty surface provided 
> there is no oil or grease on it.  Tremclad now make a clear coat for their 
> paint. You must wait for 3 days before applying it over fresh Tremclad 
> Paint.. It costs about $10.00 Canadian per litre at Wal-Mart. I did the 
> bottom on my KR with a white glossy Tremclad and will follow with the 
> clear coat. I applied the white last year. It is still bright and shiny 
> but I will clear coat it. I intend to paint the entire plane in it. Weep 
> you Netters over the cost of my paint job.
> Regards
> Harold Woods
> Orillia, ON. Canada.
> haroldwo...@rogers.com
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KR> New Member

[Peter Drake]

Hi Guys
Just want to introduce myself to you KRnetters. I live in the UK (near 
Hereford). I have just taken on a part built KR2s project started by a friend 
of mine, John Bally about 5 years ago. It has been the home for his chickens 
since then and needed quite a lot of cleaning up. He had built the basic "boat" 
and the wing spars. As with most KRs it has had a few mods. The centre wing 
section has been increased by 6" with a corresponding reduction in the outboard 
sections to accomodate special air brakes. This has entailed special WAFs to 
give us a reasonable AUW. Also the fuselage has been extended by 6" at the 
front and the seats moved forwards to move the Cof G further forwards. The 
width has been increased by 2" to accomodate us middle-aged men with expanding 
waist lines!
We have just had our first inspection by the PFA (our equivalent to the EAA). I 
think the inspector was a bit daunted by the age of the project and that he was 
not familiar with the type (or a fan of foam & fibreglass construction!).
I am attracted to the idea of using a Corvair engine, however as we are 
somewhat restricted on AUW by the PFA (our rules are much more restrictive than 
yours) we may have to go for something lighter like a Jabiru 120 (blow the 
expense!) any ideas welcome!
I have been following the construction and first flights of Mark's KR and have 
taken much inspiration from it - Well done Mark!

Peter Drake