KR> Kr on gear

[Info at vandykeaviation.com]

I will get you a photo tonight   Call me @ 480-694-8846

Lee Van Dyke

> On Jul 28, 2016, at 8:14 AM, codylee.cramer via KRnet  list.krnet.org> wrote:
> 
> I never got a response from you by sending a message to that contact point. 
> Did you sell to someone else?
> 
> 
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>  Original message From: Info--- via KRnet  list.krnet.org> Date: 7/26/16  9:55 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: KRnet  list.krnet.org> Cc: Info at vandykeaviation.com Subject: Re: KR> Kr on gear 
> Contact me off line.  Lee at vandyke2.com
> 
> Lee Van Dyke
> 
>> On Jul 25, 2016, at 2:53 PM, codylee.cramer via KRnet > list.krnet.org> wrote:
>> 
>> I will buy the gear from you. Can you send me a pic of it? Shipping would be 
>> to middleburg, Florida if you can get me a total price.
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>>  Original message From: Info--- via KRnet > list.krnet.org> Date: 7/25/16  5:14 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: KRnet > list.krnet.org> Cc: Info at vandykeaviation.com Subject: Re: KR> Kr on gear 
>> $2500 for the boat with gear, skins and rudder pedals are in with cables
>> 
>> Lee Van Dyke
>> 
>>> On Jul 25, 2016, at 1:06 PM, codylee.cramer via KRnet >> list.krnet.org> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I would be interested in the boat with the Diehl gear or just the gear. Do 
>>> you have a price in mind for either of them?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>>>  Original message From: Lee Van Dyke via KRnet >> list.krnet.org> Date: 7/25/16  11:43 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: "codylee.cramer 
>>> via KRnet"  Cc: Lee Van Dyke  
>>> Subject: KR> Kr on gear 
>>> One is the original retract, the other is Diehl gear and Diehl wing skins, 
>>> tail draggers,  I also have another set of Diehl gear with hyd brakes.
>>> 
>>> Lee Van Dyke
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
>>> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
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>>> options
>> 
>> 
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KR> Kr on gear

[codylee.cramer]

I never got a response from you by sending a message to that contact point. Did 
you sell to someone else?


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Info--- via KRnet  Date: 7/26/16  9:55 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: KRnet  Cc: Info at vandykeaviation.com Subject: Re: KR> Kr on gear 
Contact me off line.? Lee at vandyke2.com

Lee Van Dyke

> On Jul 25, 2016, at 2:53 PM, codylee.cramer via KRnet  list.krnet.org> wrote:
> 
> I will buy the gear from you. Can you send me a pic of it? Shipping would be 
> to middleburg, Florida if you can get me a total price.
> 
> 
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>  Original message From: Info--- via KRnet  list.krnet.org> Date: 7/25/16? 5:14 PM? (GMT-05:00) To: KRnet  list.krnet.org> Cc: Info at vandykeaviation.com Subject: Re: KR> Kr on gear 
> $2500 for the boat with gear, skins and rudder pedals are in with cables
> 
> Lee Van Dyke
> 
>> On Jul 25, 2016, at 1:06 PM, codylee.cramer via KRnet > list.krnet.org> wrote:
>> 
>> I would be interested in the boat with the Diehl gear or just the gear. Do 
>> you have a price in mind for either of them?
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>>  Original message From: Lee Van Dyke via KRnet > list.krnet.org> Date: 7/25/16? 11:43 AM? (GMT-05:00) To: "codylee.cramer via 
>> KRnet"  Cc: Lee Van Dyke  
>> Subject: KR> Kr on gear 
>> One is the original retract, the other is Diehl gear and Diehl wing skins, 
>> tail draggers,? I also have another set of Diehl gear with hyd brakes.
>> 
>> Lee Van Dyke
>> 
>> ___
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>> options
> 
> 
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KR> Kr on gear

[Info at vandykeaviation.com]

Contact me off line.  Lee at vandyke2.com

Lee Van Dyke

> On Jul 25, 2016, at 2:53 PM, codylee.cramer via KRnet  list.krnet.org> wrote:
> 
> I will buy the gear from you. Can you send me a pic of it? Shipping would be 
> to middleburg, Florida if you can get me a total price.
> 
> 
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>  Original message From: Info--- via KRnet  list.krnet.org> Date: 7/25/16  5:14 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: KRnet  list.krnet.org> Cc: Info at vandykeaviation.com Subject: Re: KR> Kr on gear 
> $2500 for the boat with gear, skins and rudder pedals are in with cables
> 
> Lee Van Dyke
> 
>> On Jul 25, 2016, at 1:06 PM, codylee.cramer via KRnet > list.krnet.org> wrote:
>> 
>> I would be interested in the boat with the Diehl gear or just the gear. Do 
>> you have a price in mind for either of them?
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>>  Original message From: Lee Van Dyke via KRnet > list.krnet.org> Date: 7/25/16  11:43 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: "codylee.cramer via 
>> KRnet"  Cc: Lee Van Dyke  
>> Subject: KR> Kr on gear 
>> One is the original retract, the other is Diehl gear and Diehl wing skins, 
>> tail draggers,  I also have another set of Diehl gear with hyd brakes.
>> 
>> Lee Van Dyke
>> 
>> ___
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>> options
> 
> 
> ___
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KR> Kr on gear

[codylee.cramer]

I will buy the gear from you. Can you send me a pic of it? Shipping would be to 
middleburg, Florida if you can get me a total price.


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Info--- via KRnet  Date: 7/25/16  5:14 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: KRnet  Cc: Info at vandykeaviation.com Subject: Re: KR> Kr on gear 
$2500 for the boat with gear, skins and rudder pedals are in with cables

Lee Van Dyke

> On Jul 25, 2016, at 1:06 PM, codylee.cramer via KRnet  list.krnet.org> wrote:
> 
> I would be interested in the boat with the Diehl gear or just the gear. Do 
> you have a price in mind for either of them?
> 
> 
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>  Original message From: Lee Van Dyke via KRnet  list.krnet.org> Date: 7/25/16? 11:43 AM? (GMT-05:00) To: "codylee.cramer via 
> KRnet"  Cc: Lee Van Dyke  
> Subject: KR> Kr on gear 
> One is the original retract, the other is Diehl gear and Diehl wing skins, 
> tail draggers,? I also have another set of Diehl gear with hyd brakes.
> 
> Lee Van Dyke
> 
> ___
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KR> Kr on gear

[codylee.cramer]

I would be interested in the boat with the Diehl gear or just the gear. Do you 
have a price in mind for either of them?


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Lee Van Dyke via KRnet  Date: 7/25/16  11:43 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: "codylee.cramer via 
KRnet"  Cc: Lee Van Dyke  
Subject: KR> Kr on gear 
One is the original retract, the other is Diehl gear and Diehl wing skins, tail 
draggers,? I also have another set of Diehl gear with hyd brakes.

Lee Van Dyke

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KR> Kr on gear

[Info at vandykeaviation.com]

100 plus shipping for the gear

Lee Van Dyke

> On Jul 25, 2016, at 1:06 PM, codylee.cramer via KRnet  list.krnet.org> wrote:
> 
> I would be interested in the boat with the Diehl gear or just the gear. Do 
> you have a price in mind for either of them?
> 
> 
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>  Original message From: Lee Van Dyke via KRnet  list.krnet.org> Date: 7/25/16  11:43 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: "codylee.cramer via 
> KRnet"  Cc: Lee Van Dyke  
> Subject: KR> Kr on gear 
> One is the original retract, the other is Diehl gear and Diehl wing skins, 
> tail draggers,  I also have another set of Diehl gear with hyd brakes.
> 
> Lee Van Dyke
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
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KR> Kr on gear

[Info at vandykeaviation.com]

$2500 for the boat with gear, skins and rudder pedals are in with cables

Lee Van Dyke

> On Jul 25, 2016, at 1:06 PM, codylee.cramer via KRnet  list.krnet.org> wrote:
> 
> I would be interested in the boat with the Diehl gear or just the gear. Do 
> you have a price in mind for either of them?
> 
> 
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>  Original message From: Lee Van Dyke via KRnet  list.krnet.org> Date: 7/25/16  11:43 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: "codylee.cramer via 
> KRnet"  Cc: Lee Van Dyke  
> Subject: KR> Kr on gear 
> One is the original retract, the other is Diehl gear and Diehl wing skins, 
> tail draggers,  I also have another set of Diehl gear with hyd brakes.
> 
> Lee Van Dyke
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
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KR> Kr on gear

[Global Solutions]

What do you want for the Diehl gear? I already have the calipers?

Regards

Stan



On 2016-07-25 11:43 AM, Lee Van Dyke via KRnet wrote:
> One is the original retract, the other is Diehl gear and Diehl wing skins, 
> tail draggers,  I also have another set of Diehl gear with hyd brakes.
>
> Lee Van Dyke
>
> ___
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KR> Kr on gear

[Info at vandykeaviation.com]

Make me an offer,  they at in good to OK shape

Lee Van Dyke

> On Jul 25, 2016, at 10:56 AM, Global Solutions via KRnet  list.krnet.org> wrote:
> 
> What do you want for the Diehl gear? I already have the calipers?
> 
> Regards
> 
> Stan
> 
> 
> 
>> On 2016-07-25 11:43 AM, Lee Van Dyke via KRnet wrote:
>> One is the original retract, the other is Diehl gear and Diehl wing skins, 
>> tail draggers,  I also have another set of Diehl gear with hyd brakes.
>> 
>> Lee Van Dyke
>> 
>> ___
>> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
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>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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>> options
> 
> 
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> 

KR> Kr on gear

[Lee Van Dyke]

One is the original retract, the other is Diehl gear and Diehl wing skins, tail 
draggers,  I also have another set of Diehl gear with hyd brakes.

Lee Van Dyke

KR> KR Forum-gear placement

[Larry Howell]

Steve I looked at the gear photos on your website and they are just as I 
remember them. The long taper towards the mounting bracket for nose wheel and 
the straight side that goes from bottom to top. I see a taper on the end that 
is the up or top end of the gear. The top cut looks perpendicular to the long 
taper that goes towards the mounting bracket.
I realize we are about to beat this poor horse to death. I am now concerned 
that Sid didn't mount the fiberglass gear properly.


Larry H



> On Jul 10, 2014, at 6:51 PM, "Steve G. via KRnet"  
> wrote:
> 
> It is readily apparent as one side of the taper fits the contour of the 
> mounting bracket perfectly. 
> 
> Steve Glover
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 10, 2014, at 16:32, Flesner  wrote:
>> 
>> At 02:23 PM 7/10/2014, you wrote:
>>> The TD version still has the straight leading edge and rear taper. Tri gear 
>>> is tapered on both sides.
>>> Steve Glover
>> +++
>> 
>> If the tri-gear leg has two tapers, that begs the question: which taper do 
>> you use against the bracket?  I'm assuming the instructions cover that.
>> 
>> Larry Flesner  
> 
> ___
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KR> KR Forum-gear placement

[Jeff Scott]

I would have some concerns about the torque moment of a rearward offset on the 
bolts going through the unidirectional glass gear legs.  The Cessna 120/140 
gear legs were steel.  I don't know how the unidirectional scotchply legs will 
stand up to that, but I would have some concern about them splitting with that 
kind of loading on a hard landing.  This may or may not be a problem, but it's 
something you might want to consider before you do it.  Or perhaps you have 
already considered it and decided it's a non-factor. :o)

-Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM

>
> Larry,
> Thanks for the input on the Cessna 120 gear legs.
> I have done weight and balance on my KR-2 (and on Larry Flesner's also). 
> Getting very familiar with the Excel spread sheet.  My personal measurements 
> on my KR-2 and using the W & B spread sheet clearly indicates the main 
> wheels need to be moved.  The VW engine has been moved 2 inches forward from 
> the plans call out by putting 2-inch spacers between the fire wall and stock 
> engine mount.  Now in process of building some adapters for the bottom ends 
> of the gear legs to extend the wheel axels 3 inches further aft for total of 
> 20 inches aft of datum (leading edge of the stub wing).
> 
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD, USA

KR> KR Forum-gear placement

[Flesner]

At 02:23 PM 7/10/2014, you wrote:
>The TD version still has the straight leading edge and rear taper. 
>Tri gear is tapered on both sides.
>Steve Glover
+++

If the tri-gear leg has two tapers, that begs the question: which 
taper do you use against the bracket?  I'm assuming the instructions 
cover that.

Larry Flesner  

KR> KR Forum-gear placement

[Larry H]

All I know is that when my friend ordered the new trigear set from Diehl we 
were sent the one side taper one side straight set. I assumed they were all 
like that.
If I had a choice who wouldn't want the double taper!   LOL

Larry H



> On Jul 10, 2014, at 2:23 PM, "Steve G. via KRnet"  
> wrote:
> 
> The TD version still has the straight leading edge and rear taper. Tri gear 
> is tapered on both sides. 
> 
> Steve Glover
> 
> 

KR> KR Forum-gear placement

[Christopher Pryce]

The Diehl gear has two separate leg assemblies for conventional or
tricycle. The tricycle gear legs have angles on both sides. The
conventional gear legs are straight on one side.

Chris Pryce
Burlington, NJ

KR> KR Forum-gear placement

[Mark Jones]

- Original Message - 
> The Diehl gear has two separate leg assemblies for conventional or
> tricycle. The tricycle gear legs have angles on both sides. The
> conventional gear legs are straight on one side.
>
> Chris Pryce

I was going to dispute this statement since I went to nvAero web site and 
looked at the Diehl landing gear there now for sale and it is only tapered 
on one side. But, then I pulled out my construction photos from back when I 
was installing my gear and back then the tri-gear mains were tapered on both 
sides and followed the shape of the aluminum mounting brackets exactly. It 
appears that today the same mains are used for both type gear. Both Larry 
Howell and Chris are correct. Regardless of which type leg you actually 
have, on either set up, the angled side must be inward against the bracket 
flange.

Mark Jones (N886MJ)
Stevens Point, WI
E-mail: flykr2s at charter.net
Web: www.flykr2s.com

KR> KR Forum-gear placement

[smwood]

Larry,
Thanks for the input on the Cessna 120 gear legs.
I have done weight and balance on my KR-2 (and on Larry Flesner's also). 
Getting very familiar with the Excel spread sheet.  My personal measurements 
on my KR-2 and using the W & B spread sheet clearly indicates the main 
wheels need to be moved.  The VW engine has been moved 2 inches forward from 
the plans call out by putting 2-inch spacers between the fire wall and stock 
engine mount.  Now in process of building some adapters for the bottom ends 
of the gear legs to extend the wheel axels 3 inches further aft for total of 
20 inches aft of datum (leading edge of the stub wing).

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

> Mark,
> Your statement below reminds me of my old Cessna 120.  The Cessna 120 
> could nose over if the right situation arose probably mostly from applying 
> too much braking by the pilot. Several 120s I have seen over the years had 
> a horizontal steel bracket bolted to the normal axle bolt holes. This 
> bracket extended several inches forward of course because Cessna 120s are 
> tail draggers. The axle was then bolted to the forward end of the 
> extension. This extension with its extra leverage was supposed to really 
> help prevent a nose over situation on the 120. I always assumed that 
> Cessna made these parts since it is a certified aircraft but I don't know 
> that.
> I would imagine this same principle should work on a nose dragger, with a 
> rearward extension. The twisting moment might need to be considered on the 
> fiberglass landing gear. It may not matter as much as my imagination says 
> it may!
> Just wondering Sid if you have done your weight and balance? I will assume 
> you can't move your engine forward!
> Larry H
>
>> Can't you simply bolt an appropriate sized adapter plate to your current 
>> lower gear attach bracket that extends rearward just enough to keep the 
>> thing off it's tail?  Assuming it's thick enough, I would not expect any 
>> toe/camber geometry changes, although if you have wheel pants, they would 
>> need some reworking to meet up with the gear legs.
>>
>> That's essentially what I did to make my gear longer, except I went down 
>> instead of aft.  Really, I just made a new lower bracket that was longer, 
>> but essentially the same concept.  It worked, but I didn't like the view 
>> over the cowling.  You could also take that approach...redesigned bottom 
>> gear brackets that relocate the wheels further aft.
>>
>> Mark Langford

KR> KR Forum-gear placement

[Steve G.]

The TD version still has the straight leading edge and rear taper. Tri gear is 
tapered on both sides. 

Steve Glover

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 10, 2014, at 12:12, Mark Jones via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> - Original Message - 
>> The Diehl gear has two separate leg assemblies for conventional or
>> tricycle. The tricycle gear legs have angles on both sides. The
>> conventional gear legs are straight on one side.
>> 
>> Chris Pryce
> 
> I was going to dispute this statement since I went to nvAero web site and 
> looked at the Diehl landing gear there now for sale and it is only tapered on 
> one side. But, then I pulled out my construction photos from back when I was 
> installing my gear and back then the tri-gear mains were tapered on both 
> sides and followed the shape of the aluminum mounting brackets exactly. It 
> appears that today the same mains are used for both type gear. Both Larry 
> Howell and Chris are correct. Regardless of which type leg you actually have, 
> on either set up, the angled side must be inward against the bracket flange.
> 
> Mark Jones (N886MJ)
> Stevens Point, WI
> E-mail: flykr2s at charter.net
> Web: www.flykr2s.com
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
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> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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> options

KR> KR Forum-gear placement

[Larry Howell]

Mark,
Your statement below reminds me of my old Cessna 120.  The Cessna 120 could 
nose over if the right situation arose probably mostly from applying too much 
braking by the pilot. Several 120s I have seen over the years had a horizontal 
steel bracket bolted to the normal axle bolt holes. This bracket extended 
several inches forward of course because Cessna 120s are tail draggers. The 
axle was then bolted to the forward end of the extension. This extension with 
its extra leverage was supposed to really help prevent a nose over situation on 
the 120. I always assumed that Cessna made these parts since it is a certified 
aircraft but I don't know that.
I would imagine this same principle should work on a nose dragger, with a 
rearward extension. The twisting moment might need to be considered on the 
fiberglass landing gear. It may not matter as much as my imagination says it 
may!
Just wondering Sid if you have done your weight and balance? I will assume you 
can't move your engine forward!
Larry H



> On Jul 5, 2014, at 6:00 PM, Mark Langford via KRnet  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Can't you simply bolt an appropriate sized adapter plate to your current 
> lower gear attach bracket that extends rearward just enough to keep the thing 
> off it's tail?  Assuming it's thick enough, I would not expect any toe/camber 
> geometry changes, although if you have wheel pants, they would need some 
> reworking to meet up with the gear legs.
> 
> That's essentially what I did to make my gear longer, except I went down 
> instead of aft.  Really, I just made a new lower bracket that was longer, but 
> essentially the same concept.  It worked, but I didn't like the view over the 
> cowling.  You could also take that approach...redesigned bottom gear brackets 
> that relocate the wheels further aft.
> 
> Mark Langford
> ML at N56ML.com
> website at http://

KR> KR Forum-gear placement

[Flesner]

At 06:00 PM 7/5/2014, you wrote:
>I am trying to avoid re-designing my KR-2.
++

Sid,

Is your gear the standard Diehl tri-gear setup?  I'm wondering why 
other tri-gear builders aren't having the same problem.  Are you 
using a step or peg located aft of the wing trail edge to board he 
aircraft?  If so, that could create a problem.  Does it go tail to 
the ground every time you try to board and where exactly are you 
placing your weight when you board?  Need to identify the problem 
before identifying the solution.

Larry Flesner

KR> KR Forum-gear placement

[Rob Schmitt]

Sid,

Assuming you are using 8-16 (some say 14 max) from the front edge of the
wing, my KR2S has a 11.5 cg at same condition, pilot and half fuel.  You are
a little farther aft, but not out of bounds by any means. I know sounds
silly, but can you just add a temp weight forward of the main spar?
Obviously the further forward the less weight it would need to be, but if
you have a spreadsheet set up you could figure it out. 

Rob Schmitt


-Original Message-
From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of smwood via
KRnet
Sent: Saturday, July 5, 2014 5:20 PM
To: krnet at list.krnet.org
Subject: Re: KR> KR Forum-gear placement

A retractable pogo stick on the tail does not seem to practical for my KR-2
at this time.
This morning with just myself onboard and half fuel, the cg is at 12.6
inches.  I tried raising the nose on a fast taxi down the runway.  With an
estimated steady ground speed of 25 knots, I can easily raise the nose wheel
off the pavement with back stick about two inches.  I estimate the speed
because the ASI does not register until 40 knots.  I think I have the cg
about correct for flight, but the cg is only 3.4 inches ahead of the main
wheels.  Hence the tendency to dump on the tail.
If I used longer gear legs, that would move the main wheels further aft. 
But then there would be spring or stiffness issues, along with level stance
on the ground.  If I angled the gear legs further aft, then the bottom of
the leg would need rework to get the toe in correct; that would also need
extra length on the legs with spring and stance considerations.  Mr. Pazmany
shows lots of math to design the gear geometry to properly comply with Part
23.  I am trying to avoid re-designing my KR-2.  I want a practical machine
I can fly now without another year or two down time.
So, not dropping bombs yet, anyone have any other suggestions?

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

>
> At 01:11 PM 7/4/2014, you wrote:
>>For tri-gear I am very much aware that the main wheels are not set far 
>>enough to the rear to consistently keep the tail from dumping when 
>>trying to mount or dismount.
>

+++
>
> It's their placement when loaded for flight that is of primary 
> concern.  Put them too far to the rear and it will be more difficult 
> to rotate of takeoff.  One lightweight aircraft that we all know won't 
> even set with the nose wheel on the ground without the pilot on board.  
> If loading and unloading is a problem a retractable tail stand might 
> be in order.  The B-24 puts out a pogo stick when parked.
>
> Larry Flesner
>



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KR> KR Forum-gear placement

[Adam Tippin]

Sid I don't know what gear you have, but if its the two piece gear, could
you put a spacer between the gear base and spar?

KR> KR Forum-gear placement

[smwood]

A retractable pogo stick on the tail does not seem to practical for my KR-2 
at this time.
This morning with just myself onboard and half fuel, the cg is at 12.6 
inches.  I tried raising the nose on a fast taxi down the runway.  With an 
estimated steady ground speed of 25 knots, I can easily raise the nose wheel 
off the pavement with back stick about two inches.  I estimate the speed 
because the ASI does not register until 40 knots.  I think I have the cg 
about correct for flight, but the cg is only 3.4 inches ahead of the main 
wheels.  Hence the tendency to dump on the tail.
If I used longer gear legs, that would move the main wheels further aft. 
But then there would be spring or stiffness issues, along with level stance 
on the ground.  If I angled the gear legs further aft, then the bottom of 
the leg would need rework to get the toe in correct; that would also need 
extra length on the legs with spring and stance considerations.  Mr. Pazmany 
shows lots of math to design the gear geometry to properly comply with Part 
23.  I am trying to avoid re-designing my KR-2.  I want a practical machine 
I can fly now without another year or two down time.
So, not dropping bombs yet, anyone have any other suggestions?

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

>
> At 01:11 PM 7/4/2014, you wrote:
>>For tri-gear I am very much aware that the main wheels are not set
>>far enough to the rear to consistently keep the tail from dumping
>>when trying to mount or dismount.
> +++
>
> It's their placement when loaded for flight that is of primary
> concern.  Put them too far to the rear and it will be more difficult
> to rotate of takeoff.  One lightweight aircraft that we all know
> won't even set with the nose wheel on the ground without the pilot on
> board.  If loading and unloading is a problem a retractable tail
> stand might be in order.  The B-24 puts out a pogo stick when parked.
>
> Larry Flesner
>

KR> KR Forum-gear placement

[GaryH]

Try this.  See attached doc.

Gary

Soli Deo Gloria

-Original Message-
From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Flesner via
KRnet
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2014 3:03 PM
To: KRnet
Subject: KR> KR Forum-gear placement

At 01:11 PM 7/4/2014, you wrote:
>For tri-gear I am very much aware that the main wheels are not set 
>far enough to the rear to consistently keep the tail from dumping 
>when trying to mount or dismount.

+++

It's their placement when loaded for flight that is of primary 
concern.  Put them too far to the rear and it will be more difficult 
to rotate of takeoff.  One lightweight aircraft that we all know 
won't even set with the nose wheel on the ground without the pilot on 
board.  If loading and unloading is a problem a retractable tail 
stand might be in order.  The B-24 puts out a pogo stick when parked.

Larry Flesner 


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KR> KR Forum-gear placement

[Flesner]

At 01:11 PM 7/4/2014, you wrote:
>For tri-gear I am very much aware that the main wheels are not set 
>far enough to the rear to consistently keep the tail from dumping 
>when trying to mount or dismount.
+++

It's their placement when loaded for flight that is of primary 
concern.  Put them too far to the rear and it will be more difficult 
to rotate of takeoff.  One lightweight aircraft that we all know 
won't even set with the nose wheel on the ground without the pilot on 
board.  If loading and unloading is a problem a retractable tail 
stand might be in order.  The B-24 puts out a pogo stick when parked.

Larry Flesner 

KR> KR landing gear

[hussein nagy]

Joe,
That is encouraging , I just bought a project KR2, it hasa retractable main 
gear and tail wheel.
If you give assistance on how did you install and convert the KR2 to nose wheel.
Please contact me and any one had expertise on that subject.
Thank you in advance.

Nagy

Joe Beyer <fly...@spiretech.com> wrote:
I have flown both the tail wheel and nose wheel gear on my KR-2 and by far
the nose wheel is the most practical, due to the increased visibility and
superior ground handling characteristics. One bad thing with the nose wheel
is that if you break it you won't take off, whereas with a bent tail wheel
you can still take off if you had to. At the speed the KR flies the added
drag isn't very great and with the added weight, (about 10 lbs in my case)
it is in the right place, up in the nose. I designed my own landing gear and
have had no problems with the mains but a few with the nose gear. I've used
a hand truck wheel with the cheap bearings. They work well but after a few
landings they will buzz. When that happens then it's time to upgrade to the
more expensive ones. Last week the nose bearings went out so I replaced them
for under ten dollars. They're rated for about 5mph. but if you keep them
greased up real well they can go a lot faster. Tire pressure is at 22psi.
with no shimmy problems. I use 4ea. bellview washers stacked so there is a
preload on the spindle, which is made of 3/4" cold rolled steel. Recently my
throttle was set too high and I had some trouble slowing down and that put
some extra load on the nose wheel. With the bellview washers there are no
shimmy problems, and operating on grass isn't too much different than
asphalt. The main wheels are Azusa's with drum brakes and are good for
steering and parking but not as good for stopping. I use the landing roll
for that. I'm in the habit now of staying off of the brakes right after
touch down. I think my next upgrade will be to install tapered roller
bearings up in the nose gear.

-Joe


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nagy hussein

-
Yahoo! for Good
 Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort. 

KR> KR landing gear

[Steve Bray]

Joe & Bob
The bearings in my nose wheel are rough when installed. Its new, never used. 
I pushed them out and they feel good. I tried to buy new ones locally and 
was told that were non-standard.
I would like to replace them with cone bearings also. Will I have to modifi 
the wheel or can I buy the races that size?

Steve Bray
Jackson, Tennessee




>From: "Robert L. Stone" <rsto...@hot.rr.com>
>Reply-To: KRnet <kr...@mylist.net>
>To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
>Subject: Re: KR> KR landing gear
>Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2005 10:44:39 -0500
>
>Hi Joe,
>  I think when you do install roller bearings you will find that they
>last much longer than ball bearings because the weight and pressure is
>distributed more evenly on the bearing system
>
>Bob Stone, Harker Heights, Tx
>rsto...@hot.rr.com
>
>
>- Original Message -
>From: "Joe Beyer" <fly...@spiretech.com>
>To: <kr...@mylist.net>
>Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2005 1:32 AM
>Subject: KR> KR landing gear
>
>
> >I have flown both the tail wheel and nose wheel gear on my KR-2 and by 
>far
> > the nose wheel is the most practical, due to the increased visibility 
>and
> > superior ground handling characteristics. One bad thing with the nose
> > wheel
> > is that if you break it you won't take off, whereas with a bent tail 
>wheel
> > you can still take off if you had to. At the speed the KR flies the 
>added
> > drag isn't very great and with the added weight, (about 10 lbs in my 
>case)
> > it is in the right place, up in the nose. I designed my own landing gear
> > and
> > have had no problems with the mains but a few with the nose gear. I've
> > used
> > a hand truck wheel with the cheap bearings. They work well but after a 
>few
> > landings they will buzz. When that happens then it's time to upgrade to
> > the
> > more expensive ones. Last week the nose bearings went out so I replaced
> > them
> > for under ten dollars. They're rated for about 5mph. but if you keep 
>them
> > greased up real well they can go a lot faster. Tire pressure is at 
>22psi.
> > with no shimmy problems. I use 4ea. bellview washers stacked so there is 
>a
> > preload on the spindle, which is made of 3/4" cold rolled steel. 
>Recently
> > my
> > throttle was set too high and I had some trouble slowing down and that 
>put
> > some extra load on the nose wheel. With the bellview washers there are 
>no
> > shimmy problems, and operating on grass isn't too much different than
> > asphalt. The main wheels are Azusa's with drum brakes and are good for
> > steering and parking but not as good for stopping. I use the landing 
>roll
> > for that. I'm in the habit now of staying off of the brakes right after
> > touch down. I think my next upgrade will be to install tapered roller
> > bearings up in the nose gear.
> >
> > -Joe
> >
> >
> > ___
> > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> >
>
>
>___
>Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
>to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> KR landing gear

[Robert L. Stone]

Steve Bray,
 I have no idea, my advice would be to use your search engine to find 
someone who specializes in bearings, give them the dementions you need and 
see what they can do for you.  I did this for a trailer I had that came as a 
kit from China.  I bought it from Harbor Freight real cheap and when I 
inquired about parts, like new wheel bearings, I couldn't even get an answer 
after three tries. I don't remember who I got the bearings from now or I 
would give you their address or phone. Good luck.

Bob Stone, Harker Heights, Tx
rsto...@hot.rr.com





- Original Message - 
From: "Steve Bray" <rsb...@hotmail.com>
To: <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 7:02 AM
Subject: Re: KR> KR landing gear


> Joe & Bob
> The bearings in my nose wheel are rough when installed. Its new, never 
> used.
> I pushed them out and they feel good. I tried to buy new ones locally and
> was told that were non-standard.
> I would like to replace them with cone bearings also. Will I have to 
> modifi
> the wheel or can I buy the races that size?
>
> Steve Bray
> Jackson, Tennessee
>
>
>
>
>>From: "Robert L. Stone" <rsto...@hot.rr.com>
>>Reply-To: KRnet <kr...@mylist.net>
>>To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
>>Subject: Re: KR> KR landing gear
>>Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2005 10:44:39 -0500
>>
>>Hi Joe,
>>  I think when you do install roller bearings you will find that they
>>last much longer than ball bearings because the weight and pressure is
>>distributed more evenly on the bearing system
>>
>>Bob Stone, Harker Heights, Tx
>>rsto...@hot.rr.com
>>
>>
>>- Original Message -----
>>From: "Joe Beyer" <fly...@spiretech.com>
>>To: <kr...@mylist.net>
>>Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2005 1:32 AM
>>Subject: KR> KR landing gear
>>
>>
>> >I have flown both the tail wheel and nose wheel gear on my KR-2 and by
>>far
>> > the nose wheel is the most practical, due to the increased visibility
>>and
>> > superior ground handling characteristics. One bad thing with the nose
>> > wheel
>> > is that if you break it you won't take off, whereas with a bent tail
>>wheel
>> > you can still take off if you had to. At the speed the KR flies the
>>added
>> > drag isn't very great and with the added weight, (about 10 lbs in my
>>case)
>> > it is in the right place, up in the nose. I designed my own landing 
>> > gear
>> > and
>> > have had no problems with the mains but a few with the nose gear. I've
>> > used
>> > a hand truck wheel with the cheap bearings. They work well but after a
>>few
>> > landings they will buzz. When that happens then it's time to upgrade to
>> > the
>> > more expensive ones. Last week the nose bearings went out so I replaced
>> > them
>> > for under ten dollars. They're rated for about 5mph. but if you keep
>>them
>> > greased up real well they can go a lot faster. Tire pressure is at
>>22psi.
>> > with no shimmy problems. I use 4ea. bellview washers stacked so there 
>> > is
>>a
>> > preload on the spindle, which is made of 3/4" cold rolled steel.
>>Recently
>> > my
>> > throttle was set too high and I had some trouble slowing down and that
>>put
>> > some extra load on the nose wheel. With the bellview washers there are
>>no
>> > shimmy problems, and operating on grass isn't too much different than
>> > asphalt. The main wheels are Azusa's with drum brakes and are good for
>> > steering and parking but not as good for stopping. I use the landing
>>roll
>> > for that. I'm in the habit now of staying off of the brakes right after
>> > touch down. I think my next upgrade will be to install tapered roller
>> > bearings up in the nose gear.
>> >
>> > -Joe
>> >
>> >
>> > ___
>> > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
>> > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>> > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>> >
>>
>>
>>___
>>Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
>>to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>>please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 

KR> KR landing gear

[Joe Beyer]

I have flown both the tail wheel and nose wheel gear on my KR-2 and by far
the nose wheel is the most practical, due to the increased visibility and
superior ground handling characteristics. One bad thing with the nose wheel
is that if you break it you won't take off, whereas with a bent tail wheel
you can still take off if you had to. At the speed the KR flies the added
drag isn't very great and with the added weight, (about 10 lbs in my case)
it is in the right place, up in the nose. I designed my own landing gear and
have had no problems with the mains but a few with the nose gear. I've used
a hand truck wheel with the cheap bearings. They work well but after a few
landings they will buzz. When that happens then it's time to upgrade to the
more expensive ones. Last week the nose bearings went out so I replaced them
for under ten dollars. They're rated for about 5mph. but if you keep them
greased up real well they can go a lot faster. Tire pressure is at 22psi.
with no shimmy problems. I use 4ea. bellview washers stacked so there is a
preload on the spindle, which is made of 3/4" cold rolled steel. Recently my
throttle was set too high and I had some trouble slowing down and that put
some extra load on the nose wheel. With the bellview washers there are no
shimmy problems, and operating on grass isn't too much different than
asphalt. The main wheels are Azusa's with drum brakes and are good for
steering and parking but not as good for stopping. I use the landing roll
for that. I'm in the habit now of staying off of the brakes right after
touch down. I think my next upgrade will be to install tapered roller
bearings up in the nose gear.

-Joe

KR> KR landing gear

[Robert L. Stone]

Hi Joe,
 I think when you do install roller bearings you will find that they 
last much longer than ball bearings because the weight and pressure is 
distributed more evenly on the bearing system

Bob Stone, Harker Heights, Tx
rsto...@hot.rr.com


- Original Message - 
From: "Joe Beyer" <fly...@spiretech.com>
To: <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2005 1:32 AM
Subject: KR> KR landing gear


>I have flown both the tail wheel and nose wheel gear on my KR-2 and by far
> the nose wheel is the most practical, due to the increased visibility and
> superior ground handling characteristics. One bad thing with the nose 
> wheel
> is that if you break it you won't take off, whereas with a bent tail wheel
> you can still take off if you had to. At the speed the KR flies the added
> drag isn't very great and with the added weight, (about 10 lbs in my case)
> it is in the right place, up in the nose. I designed my own landing gear 
> and
> have had no problems with the mains but a few with the nose gear. I've 
> used
> a hand truck wheel with the cheap bearings. They work well but after a few
> landings they will buzz. When that happens then it's time to upgrade to 
> the
> more expensive ones. Last week the nose bearings went out so I replaced 
> them
> for under ten dollars. They're rated for about 5mph. but if you keep them
> greased up real well they can go a lot faster. Tire pressure is at 22psi.
> with no shimmy problems. I use 4ea. bellview washers stacked so there is a
> preload on the spindle, which is made of 3/4" cold rolled steel. Recently 
> my
> throttle was set too high and I had some trouble slowing down and that put
> some extra load on the nose wheel. With the bellview washers there are no
> shimmy problems, and operating on grass isn't too much different than
> asphalt. The main wheels are Azusa's with drum brakes and are good for
> steering and parking but not as good for stopping. I use the landing roll
> for that. I'm in the habit now of staying off of the brakes right after
> touch down. I think my next upgrade will be to install tapered roller
> bearings up in the nose gear.
>
> -Joe
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 

KR> kr structiure/gear legs

[larry flesner]

At 05:06 AM 7/7/05 +1000, you wrote:
>Can anyone tell me just what role the glass skin on the fuselage does,
>And, does anyone have any experience in using longer undercarriage legs
>than shown on the plans,
>chris johnston


Glass skin on fuselage:  It's used to seal the wood.  Use the lightest
glass available.  Wick's sells what they call "deck cloth" that is
1.4 oz or so.  There are other sources with maybe lighter weight. 
I used it over all my layups and I'm convinced I saved a lot of fill weight.

Gear legs:  both Jeff Scott and I have 30" Diehl gear legs (standard
Diehl gear legs are 24") and as of now neither of us have had any
problems.  I'm using the Diehl upper brackets and I'm assuming
that Jeff does also.  Jeff has several hundred hours on his and I'm
at the 154 hour mark.  I've been on grass at least 25 times with
mine and given them a good workout.  The landing on my first
flight was the roughest I've made to date when I dropped it in from
probably a foot off the runway.  Some of the grass I've been on 
has not been all that smooth.  It would pitch me into the air before
liftoff and it would settle back on.  I'm running a 60" prop and 
have plenty of ground clearance.  

Larry Flesner

KR> kr structiure/gear legs

[Jeff Scott]

-- larry flesner  wrote:
At 05:06 AM 7/7/05 +1000, you wrote:
>Can anyone tell me just what role the glass skin on the fuselage does,
>And, does anyone have any experience in using longer undercarriage legs
>than shown on the plans,
>chris johnston


I have no glass over the plywood skin on my KR.  Just primer and paint.  I do 
get the occasional crack from the plywood grain splitting.  If I was doing it 
over again, I would paint the fuselage with a single coat of thinned epoxy to 
seal it better, but still wouldn't add the weight of glass cloth.  The wood 
itself makes a fine composite finish that shouldn't be prone to cracking after 
it absorbs a little bit of resin into the surface.

As Larry said, he and I both have the longer Diehl gear legs, although Dan 
won't sell them that length anymore.  His concern is for the leverage on the 
aluminum castings in the wing as he didn't do any drop testing with the longer 
legs.  I haven't seen any problems after 500+ hours and ~1000 landings, some of 
which were more of the style of "beat the plane on the ground repeatedly until 
it quits flying." ;o)  I use a 68" diameter prop and haven't had any ground 
clearance issues (i.e., the prop is still intact.)

Jeff Scott

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KR> kr structiure/gear legs

[Mark Langford]

Jeff Scott wrote:

> As Larry said, he and I both have the longer Diehl gear legs, although Dan 
> won't sell them that length anymore.  His concern is for the leverage on 
> the aluminum castings in the wing as he didn't do any drop testing with 
> the longer legs.  I haven't seen any problems after 500+ hours and ~1000 
> landings, some of which were more of the style of "beat the plane on the 
> ground repeatedly until it quits flying." ;o)  I use a 68" diameter prop 
> and haven't had any ground clearance issues (i.e., the prop is still 
> intact.)<

I don't have much KR flying experience, but I DID test the landing gear to 5 
g's on my first landing!  So there's a data point for you.  If I remember 
correctly, I saw somewhere that Dan tested them to 3.5g's, so I just pushed 
the envelope a little further for him.

Marty Roberts ain't got nuthin' on me...

Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama
see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford
email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net 

KR> kr retract gear mods and angled blocks

[VIRGIL N SALISBURY]

Please! Virg

On Mon, 23 May 2005 14:07:22 -0500 "Mark Langford" 
writes:
> Virg wrote:
> 
> May Virgil also recieve the FIX ??? 
> 
> Get from RR.  :  )
> 
> Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama
> see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford
> email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 
> 


Virgil N. Salisbury - AMSOIL
www.lubedealer.com/salisbury
Miami ,Fl

KR> kr retract gear mods and angled blocks

[phil brookman]

hi does anyone know what the angle is on those 3 blocks that join the gear to 
the main spar

and what do people think about adding a small plate at the end of the gear to 
shift the wheels forward and thus place moreweight on that tail the small plate 
would also give it more ground clearance .i see torsion loads being applied to 
the bar and brackets but should be ok i think anyone done it. 

also to get the plane sitting higher has anyone fitted any spacer blocks on top 
of the retracts between the spring gear
phil
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KR> kr retract gear mods and angled blocks

[Lee Van Dyke]

Phil,

I have the original plans for the retract fix at the house.  When I get home
tonight I will get the angle for you, I can also scan the plans I have and
E-mail them to you.

Lee Van Dyke
Mesa AZ
l...@vandyke5.com


- Original Message - 
From: "phil brookman" <p...@ntlworld.com>
To: <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 3:48 AM
Subject: KR> kr retract gear mods and angled blocks


hi does anyone know what the angle is on those 3 blocks that join the gear
to the main spar

and what do people think about adding a small plate at the end of the gear
to shift the wheels forward and thus place moreweight on that tail the small
plate would also give it more ground clearance .i see torsion loads being
applied to the bar and brackets but should be ok i think anyone done it.

also to get the plane sitting higher has anyone fitted any spacer blocks on
top of the retracts between the spring gear
phil






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Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.322 / Virus Database: 266.11.14 - Release Date: 20/05/2005







> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> kr retract gear mods and angled blocks

[Mark Langford]

Virg wrote:

May Virgil also recieve the FIX ??? 

Get from RR.  :  )

Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama
see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford
email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net

KR> kr retract gear mods and angled blocks

[VIRGIL N SALISBURY]

O K, Did not khow that they had them, Virg

On Mon, 23 May 2005 14:07:22 -0500 "Mark Langford" 
writes:
> Virg wrote:
> 
> May Virgil also recieve the FIX ??? 
> 
> Get from RR.  :  )
> 
> Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama
> see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford
> email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 
> 


Virgil N. Salisbury - AMSOIL
www.lubedealer.com/salisbury
Miami ,Fl

KR> kr retract gear mods and angled blocks

[Barry Kruyssen]

Hi Phil

I added 8 degree wedges on top of the retracts between the spring bar to lift 
the aircraft and to tilt the mains forward.

I never flew like this as my gear was fixed down by the previous owner and 
would produce too much drag, I ended up replacing the whole undercarriage.

regards
Barry Kruyssen
Cairns, Australia
RAA 19-3873 

k...@bigpond.com
http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/kr2.htm 



  - Original Message - 
  From: phil brookman 
  To: kr...@mylist.net 
  Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 8:48 PM
  Subject: KR> kr retract gear mods and angled blocks


  hi does anyone know what the angle is on those 3 blocks that join the gear to 
the main spar

  and what do people think about adding a small plate at the end of the gear to 
shift the wheels forward and thus place moreweight on that tail the small plate 
would also give it more ground clearance .i see torsion loads being applied to 
the bar and brackets but should be ok i think anyone done it. 

  also to get the plane sitting higher has anyone fitted any spacer blocks on 
top of the retracts between the spring gear
  phil


--


  No virus found in this outgoing message.
  Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
  Version: 7.0.322 / Virus Database: 266.11.14 - Release Date: 20/05/2005



--


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KR>KR landing gear/brakes

[Timothy Bellville]

Hi everyone,
I have a couple of new questions.
Awhile back , when I wrote about putting toe brakes on my Kr2, a gentleman 
warned me to beef up the rudder control horn else I would bend it pressing to 
hard on the brakes. I have found this to be true.
On my sonerai this was never a issue due to the metal construction of the whole 
tail, but on the Kr, I am hesitant to change the design.
Does anyone know of a way to reinforce this area without doing major surgery or 
adding to much additional weight?
And has anyone ever used a hand brake mounted to the stick to apply both brakes 
at the same time? I had this Idea when I was contemplating the control horn 
problem.
Also I have retracts, if it matters.
Thanks everyone,
Tim
KR2
N7038V

KR>KR landing gear/brakes

[S.F. Vidal]

I have hand brakes on my flying KR. Since it's a taildragger, the two brakes
are separate to help with ground steering... which I strongly recommend for
all taildragger KR2s! My brakes are motrocycle type handles; they are not
mounted on the stick, Russian style, but just ahead of the main spar. You
grab them with one hand, while your other hand is on the stick. Non typical,
but easy to build and effective.

You can have a look at them on Mark Langford's site, under Serge Vidal's KR.

Serge F. VIDAL
KR2 ZS-WEC (between two engines)
Johannesburg, South Africa
E-mail: svi...@icon.co.za


-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
Behalf Of Timothy Bellville
Sent: 10/06/2003 10:04
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: KR>KR landing gear/brakes


Hi everyone,
I have a couple of new questions.
Awhile back , when I wrote about putting toe brakes on my Kr2, a gentleman
warned me to beef up the rudder control horn else I would bend it pressing
to hard on the brakes. I have found this to be true.
On my sonerai this was never a issue due to the metal construction of the
whole tail, but on the Kr, I am hesitant to change the design.
Does anyone know of a way to reinforce this area without doing major surgery
or adding to much additional weight?
And has anyone ever used a hand brake mounted to the stick to apply both
brakes at the same time? I had this Idea when I was contemplating the
control horn problem.
Also I have retracts, if it matters.
Thanks everyone,
Tim
KR2
N7038V
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KR>KR landing gear/brakes

[Dan Heath]

If you are using hydraulic brakes, this should not be a problem, because you
will not have to apply that much pressure.

I believe that the early KRs had a cable running between the calipers,
through the cockpit, that you could grab and pull.  I know of one Old Timer
who flew his that way for many years.  I just heard about a month ago that
he is fitting a fixed gear on it now, so, there may be no more of those left
around. 

N64KR

Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC

da...@kr-builder.org

See you in Red Oak - 2003

See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic
See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org

KR>KR landing gear/brakes

[Timothy Bellville]

What a great Idea Serge, I'm going to give it a try.
Thanks
Tim
- Original Message -
From: "S.F. Vidal" <svi...@icon.co.za>
To: "'KR builders and pilots'" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 5:09 AM
Subject: RE: KR>KR landing gear/brakes


> I have hand brakes on my flying KR. Since it's a taildragger, the two
brakes
> are separate to help with ground steering... which I strongly recommend
for
> all taildragger KR2s! My brakes are motrocycle type handles; they are not
> mounted on the stick, Russian style, but just ahead of the main spar. You
> grab them with one hand, while your other hand is on the stick. Non
typical,
> but easy to build and effective.
>
> You can have a look at them on Mark Langford's site, under Serge Vidal's
KR.
>
> Serge F. VIDAL
> KR2 ZS-WEC (between two engines)
> Johannesburg, South Africa
> E-mail: svi...@icon.co.za
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
> Behalf Of Timothy Bellville
> Sent: 10/06/2003 10:04
> To: kr...@mylist.net
> Subject: KR>KR landing gear/brakes
>
>
> Hi everyone,
> I have a couple of new questions.
> Awhile back , when I wrote about putting toe brakes on my Kr2, a gentleman
> warned me to beef up the rudder control horn else I would bend it pressing
> to hard on the brakes. I have found this to be true.
> On my sonerai this was never a issue due to the metal construction of the
> whole tail, but on the Kr, I am hesitant to change the design.
> Does anyone know of a way to reinforce this area without doing major
surgery
> or adding to much additional weight?
> And has anyone ever used a hand brake mounted to the stick to apply both
> brakes at the same time? I had this Idea when I was contemplating the
> control horn problem.
> Also I have retracts, if it matters.
> Thanks everyone,
> Tim
> KR2
> N7038V
> ___
> see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
>
>
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