KR> Re AIRCRAFT INSPECTIONS

[Larry via KRnet]

Sid, are you saying your DAR usually charges $1,500.00 for a sign off?
If so, he seems like he is taking advantage of you guys!!
Larry H
> 
> Our EAA Chapter has a member who is also a DAR.  He charges $500 per 
> inspection visit and usually takes 3 visits.
> 
> Sid Wood
> 


___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html.
see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
options
To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org

KR> Re Archives

[Steve]

I would be glad to contribute via PayPal. ?We take so much for granted these 
days...don't even think about what takes place so we can do what we do!
The archives are priceless!
A sincere THANKS to all that keep KRNet going.

Steve

KR> . Re: Wing Attach Fitting questions (Chris Kinnaman)

[Adam]

I highly recommend against welding the WAFs.  You will change the Temper of the 
4130 steel. You need not worry about the strength of the WAFs, they will 
outlast the spars. In strength and time. The connection between the sets are 
shear load. (Not friction). 
If you will insert a cotter pin through the retaining nut or safety wire, you 
can set and forget. 

Adam Tippin
A KR2S builder

> On Jan 25, 2016, at 2:12 PM, Frank Hamelly via KRnet  list.krnet.org> wrote:
> 
> Chris, I was lying in bed last night wondering about the integrity of the
> WAFs myself.  Those four little bolts are all there is between flying and a
> wing ripping off, especially under heavy G.  Has anyone ever welded the
> inner and outer WAF fittings after assembly 'just in case' or would that
> impose unwanted stresses on them?
> 
> Frank
> 
>> On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 12:00 PM,  wrote:
>> 
>> Send KRnet mailing list submissions to
>>krnet at list.krnet.org
>> 
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>>http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>>krnet-request at list.krnet.org
>> 
>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>>krnet-owner at list.krnet.org
>> 
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..."
>> 
>> 
>> Today's Topics:
>> 
>>   1.  Wing Attach Fitting questions (Dave Acklam)
>>   2.  VW engines (Oscar Zuniga)
>>   3. Re:  Wing Attach Fitting questions (Chris Kinnaman)
>>   4. Re:  clean workshop (Paul)
>>   5. Re:  Manifold vacuum (S)
>>   6. Re:  Manifold vacuum (Gary Hinkle)
>>   7. Re:  Manifold vacuum (Jeff Scott)
>>   8. Re:  Manifold vacuum (Nerobro)
>>   9. Re:  Manifold vacuum (Dave Acklam)
>>  10. Re:  Manifold vacuum (Randall Smith)
>>  11. Re:  Manifold vacuum (david)
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2016 10:35:43 -0800
>> From: Dave Acklam 
>> To: KRnet 
>> Subject: KR> Wing Attach Fitting questions
>> Message-ID:
>><
>> CAAeYjfhsT9eKvgaXChTheActKHPncM29UmT2Raq7xwWGxo14AQ at mail.gmail.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>> 
>> Ok...
>> 
>> Since some folks here have a much better understanding of the 'design'
>> behind the WAFs than I do...
>> 
>> I'm not an engineer, and I don't want to die... So further experience would
>> probably help
>> 
>> Some questions:
>> 
>> 1) What is the key force or mechanisim providing strength to the WAF joint?
>> Is it the clamping pressure imparted by the bolts? The shaft of the bolt
>> itself?
>> 
>> 2)  Is there a preferred method to 'adjust' a set of wing fittings that
>> were drilled wrong? Would welding up the hole & re-drilling work? Bushings?
>> Just make a new set?
>> 
>> Any other info would be useful.
>> 
>> I'm trying to mate wings from another KR, that I bought, to mine...
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2016 11:08:12 -0800
>> From: Oscar Zuniga 
>> To: "krnet at list.krnet.org" 
>> Subject: KR> VW engines
>> Message-ID: 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>> 
>> I've been looking for pictures and a writeup on a beautiful KR with a Type
>> 4 that was built by a Florida medical guy.  As I recall, it won some awards
>> at Sun 'n' Fun and may have won a 'Best Engine' at a KR Gathering.  I
>> believe the builder sold it and he may have died since then too, but I may
>> also be getting my stories mixed up.  Anyway, studying pictures of that
>> firewall forward would be informative.
>> Oscar ZunigaMedford, OR
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 3
>> Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2016 12:49:08 -0700
>> From: Chris Kinnaman 
>> To: KRnet 
>> Subject: Re: KR> Wing Attach Fitting questions
>> Message-ID: <56A52AB4.5070809 at spinn.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>> 
>> If you have mismatched hole locations between the WAFs and the spar,
>> first determine if the wing fittings were actually drilled wrong. If the
>> hole diameters are within limits and fit the bolts without play, setback
>> of hole from the edge of the WAF is adequate, and they match one spar,
>> either the center section or the outer panels, you could glue
>> tight-fitting dowels into the unmatched spar's fitting holes and
>> carefully re-drill new fitting holes which match the WAF hole locations.
>> Clamping pressure is not considered when engineering this type of bolted
>> joint, it's the shaft of the bolt in shear in this case which bears the
>> loads.
>> 
>> Chris
>> 
>>> On 1/24/2016 11:35 AM, Dave Acklam via KRnet wrote:
>>> Ok...
>>> 
>>> Since some folks here have a much better understanding of the 'design'
>>> behind the WAFs than I do...
>>> 
>>> I'm not an engineer, and I don't want to die... So further experience
>> would
>>> probably help
>>> 
>>> Some questions:
>>> 
>>> 1) 

KR> . Re: Wing Attach Fitting questions (Chris Kinnaman)

[Frank Hamelly]

Chris, I was lying in bed last night wondering about the integrity of the
WAFs myself.  Those four little bolts are all there is between flying and a
wing ripping off, especially under heavy G.  Has anyone ever welded the
inner and outer WAF fittings after assembly 'just in case' or would that
impose unwanted stresses on them?

Frank

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 12:00 PM,  wrote:

> Send KRnet mailing list submissions to
> krnet at list.krnet.org
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> krnet-request at list.krnet.org
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> krnet-owner at list.krnet.org
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>1.  Wing Attach Fitting questions (Dave Acklam)
>2.  VW engines (Oscar Zuniga)
>3. Re:  Wing Attach Fitting questions (Chris Kinnaman)
>4. Re:  clean workshop (Paul)
>5. Re:  Manifold vacuum (S)
>6. Re:  Manifold vacuum (Gary Hinkle)
>7. Re:  Manifold vacuum (Jeff Scott)
>8. Re:  Manifold vacuum (Nerobro)
>9. Re:  Manifold vacuum (Dave Acklam)
>   10. Re:  Manifold vacuum (Randall Smith)
>   11. Re:  Manifold vacuum (david)
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2016 10:35:43 -0800
> From: Dave Acklam 
> To: KRnet 
> Subject: KR> Wing Attach Fitting questions
> Message-ID:
> <
> CAAeYjfhsT9eKvgaXChTheActKHPncM29UmT2Raq7xwWGxo14AQ at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> Ok...
>
> Since some folks here have a much better understanding of the 'design'
> behind the WAFs than I do...
>
> I'm not an engineer, and I don't want to die... So further experience would
> probably help
>
> Some questions:
>
> 1) What is the key force or mechanisim providing strength to the WAF joint?
> Is it the clamping pressure imparted by the bolts? The shaft of the bolt
> itself?
>
> 2)  Is there a preferred method to 'adjust' a set of wing fittings that
> were drilled wrong? Would welding up the hole & re-drilling work? Bushings?
> Just make a new set?
>
> Any other info would be useful.
>
> I'm trying to mate wings from another KR, that I bought, to mine...
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2016 11:08:12 -0800
> From: Oscar Zuniga 
> To: "krnet at list.krnet.org" 
> Subject: KR> VW engines
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> I've been looking for pictures and a writeup on a beautiful KR with a Type
> 4 that was built by a Florida medical guy.  As I recall, it won some awards
> at Sun 'n' Fun and may have won a 'Best Engine' at a KR Gathering.  I
> believe the builder sold it and he may have died since then too, but I may
> also be getting my stories mixed up.  Anyway, studying pictures of that
> firewall forward would be informative.
> Oscar ZunigaMedford, OR
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 24 Jan 2016 12:49:08 -0700
> From: Chris Kinnaman 
> To: KRnet 
> Subject: Re: KR> Wing Attach Fitting questions
> Message-ID: <56A52AB4.5070809 at spinn.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> If you have mismatched hole locations between the WAFs and the spar,
> first determine if the wing fittings were actually drilled wrong. If the
> hole diameters are within limits and fit the bolts without play, setback
> of hole from the edge of the WAF is adequate, and they match one spar,
> either the center section or the outer panels, you could glue
> tight-fitting dowels into the unmatched spar's fitting holes and
> carefully re-drill new fitting holes which match the WAF hole locations.
> Clamping pressure is not considered when engineering this type of bolted
> joint, it's the shaft of the bolt in shear in this case which bears the
> loads.
>
> Chris
>
> On 1/24/2016 11:35 AM, Dave Acklam via KRnet wrote:
> > Ok...
> >
> > Since some folks here have a much better understanding of the 'design'
> > behind the WAFs than I do...
> >
> > I'm not an engineer, and I don't want to die... So further experience
> would
> > probably help
> >
> > Some questions:
> >
> > 1) What is the key force or mechanisim providing strength to the WAF
> joint?
> > Is it the clamping pressure imparted by the bolts? The shaft of the bolt
> > itself?
> >
> > 2)  Is there a preferred method to 'adjust' a set of wing fittings that
> > were drilled wrong? Would welding up the hole & re-drilling work?
> Bushings?
> > Just make a new set?
> >
> > Any other info would be useful.
> >
> > I'm trying to mate wings from another KR, that I bought, to mine...
> > ___
> > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> > To UNsubscribe from 

KR> Re: Regardez "VID 20131216 144515 420" sur YouTube

[laolan(p)]

Bonjour,

je suis preneur de l'info ?galement. Sont pas l?gion le KR en France.
Je construit un KR-1, en Charente.
Jean Charles

/Hi,//
//Would like to know the home base of this KR-2, as well.//
//KRs are few in France. I'm building a KR-1 in Charente.//
//Jean Charles/


Le 22/01/2016 17:40, jean paul GLOTIN via KRnet a ?crit :
> Connect? par Motorola
>
>
> S  a ?crit :
>
>> https://youtu.be/9qAsXIBuUD0
>>
> Bonjour, il est bas? o? ce KR-2? (where is based this KR-2 plane)
>
> Merci !
>
> Stefan
> s_sbal "at" hotmail.com
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options

KR> Re: Regardez "VID 20131216 144515 420" sur YouTube

[lrffrench]

Bonjour,
Unfortunately this KR-2 is not based in France. It is in Austin, Texas. Bur I 
worked 15 months in Annecy, 22 years ago
The kr.net is really very good about answering question and providing support.
I wish you all plenty of good luck..Bon ChanceRene ?Ffrench
Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S?4, an AT 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message 
From: "laolan(p) via KRnet"  
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: 01/22/2016  11:42 AM  (GMT-08:00) 
To: KRnet  
Cc: "laolan(p)"  
Subject: Re: KR>  Re:  Regardez "VID 20131216 144515 420" sur YouTube 


Bonjour,

je suis preneur de l'info ?galement. Sont pas l?gion le KR en France.
Je construit un KR-1, en Charente.
Jean Charles

/Hi,//
//Would like to know the home base of this KR-2, as well.//
//KRs are few in France. I'm building a KR-1 in Charente.//
//Jean Charles/


Le 22/01/2016 17:40, jean paul GLOTIN via KRnet a ?crit :
> Connect? par Motorola
>
>
> S  a ?crit :
>
>> https://youtu.be/9qAsXIBuUD0
>>
> Bonjour, il est bas? o? ce KR-2? (where is based this KR-2 plane)
>
> Merci !
>
> Stefan
> s_sbal "at" hotmail.com
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options

___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
options

KR> RE RUDDER CABLES

[ol' weirdo via KRnet]

If you are building in Canada you will be required to use 1/8 cable unless
the design specifically specifies other. Them's the rules and the delegated
inspector will check.

Bill Weir

KR> Re KR Landing Lights

[Virgil N.Salisbury]

On 3/10/2013 4:22 AM, Mike wrote:
> If you're thinking of installing a landing light in your wing leading edge,
> ensure that the lens is blown rather than flat wrapped and reliant on the
> attachment screws for maintaining the curvature. See recent accident report
> http://www.lightaircraftassociation.co.uk/2013/Magazine/January/safety_spot_
> jan.pdf where a wrapped lens cracked and resulted in turbulent airflow over
> the wing of a Jodel on take-off. There is speculation about whether this
> actually caused the loss of control and the subsequent crash or whether it
> was enough of a distraction for the pilot to have the same result.
>
> Mike Mold
> Devon, UK.
 Could not get to the site, Virg
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options
>

KR> RE KR Propellers

[Robert7721]

Just to provide another data point on the prop discussion.

Engine Revmaster 2100D (65 hp variety). 390 hours total time (since 2006)

Original prop was Ed Sterba 54 x 50. My static rpm was 3200, max was 3400 in 
level flight. I used to cruise at 120 mph at 3100 rpm.

Just recently changed to a Ed Sterba 54 x 54. Much better for my engine. Static 
RPM now 2900. I can now cruise at 3000 rpm at 130 mph. Feels much better on the 
engine. I was never comfortable running the Revmaster at 3400 rpm at max 
throttle.

I do believe there are major differences in Prop manufacturers.  I stayed with 
Sterba because I knew the replacement would be consistent with that 
manufacturer. He also makes pretty good props - love the leading edge 
protection. 

Rob Schmitt
N1852Z


Message: 5
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 09:18:47 -0800 (PST)
From: Lee Parker 
Subject: Re: KR> Propellers
To: KRnet 
Message-ID:
<1326820727.56120.yahoomail...@web160301.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

My KR2 with a Revmaster 2100D has a Sterba 54X50 prop and my static is still 
too 
high at 3400 RPM.  Maybe you should check your engine to see if it is putting 
out all the power it should.

KR> Re: VW engine baffles

[Sid Wood]

I used the stock VW cooling shrouds ($23 at Performance VW store).  These 
shrouds fit any size VW engine.   I made a fiberglass duct for each side 
from the cowl front to each shroud.  Be sure to install the Cool Tins also. 
My thinking is: If it has worked for millions of VW Beetles, it ought to 
work for my VW engine installation.  Ground runs keep about 350 degrees F on 
all four cylinders.  Have not flown yet; your results may vary.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/20665890934ab16f0f36bca.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/8620959324ab16f0f41a6f.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/2515593214a29ac55a01d0.jpg

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net
--

Does anyone have a good pattern (or a disgaurded set) of engine baffels to 
fit a 1834 vw with the Diehl cowl?
>
>Thanks
>Russ Barnett
>Ozark, MO
>N8227 

KR> Re: VW engine baffels

[Russell Barmett]

Does anyone have a good pattern (or a disgaurded set) of engine baffels to fit 
a 1834 vw with the Diehl cowl?

Thanks
Russ Barnett
Ozark, MO
N8227

KR> RE: First day working with N86DK.....

[Dan Heath]

My first KR was 650 pounds, this KR is 750 pounds and is much more stable
and easier to fly than my first KR was.

See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics 
See you at the 2012 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il – MVN – 40th
Anniversary
There is a time for building and it is over.
Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC


-Original Message-

2) Learn to hand prop. You will save weight not having a starter. The plane
flies better if it's light weight.

KR> RE: First day working with N86DK.....

[Joe Beyer]

Message: 1
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2012 00:06:08 -0500
From: Dave_A 
Subject: KR> First day working with N86DK.
To: KRnet 
Message-ID: <4f07d2c0.50...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed



1) It looks to me like it is a HAPI engine conversion. Most likely an
1835cc. Stock 69mm crank with 92mm bore.
2) Learn to hand prop. You will save weight not having a starter. The plane
flies better if it's light weight.
3) Polyester/vinyl ester is not compatible with epoxy. Use epoxy resin to
make any repairs. I don't know where you get this 'polyurethane' stuff.
4) I would get rid of those seats and put the KR sling seats in for
starters. Then see where your knees are in relation to the cross member.
Move your seat back.

Joe Beyer
Estacada, Ore.

KR> Re: Something wrong with KRNET

[Ronald Wright]

Yahoo is having some issues..  This has been going on for a while but recently 
it has gotten even worse..  List Moderator needs to contact Yahoo and tell them 
about the problem.  Sometimes it helps.
 
Ron

From: L.G. McCaw <l...@mccaw.net>
To: KRnet <kr...@mylist.net> 
Sent: Saturday, January 7, 2012 8:57 AM
Subject: Re: KR> Re: Something wrong with KRNET

Well, I'm seeing multiple posts too, but I see 1,3 & 5. 2 & 4 seem to be 
missing.. 

Strange... I've also seen replies too missing posts, but hadn't really thought 
about it.

Good luck,
L G

On Jan 7, 2012, at 8:19 AM, Glenn Martin <rep...@martekmississippi.com> wrote:

> On 1/7/2012 8:16 AM, Glenn Martin wrote:
>> On 1/7/2012 8:13 AM, Glenn Martin wrote:
>>> Why is it that half the posts I send to KRNet I have to send 2 or 3 
>>> times to get them to post, and half the things I see referred to in 
>>> other peoples posts I never get (I do not use a spam filter at all).
>> 2nd time sent
>> 
> 3rd time sent
> 
> -- 
> Glenn Martin, 2Lt
> Director Of Communications, MS-066
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Re: Something wrong with KRNET

[L.G. McCaw]

Well, I'm seeing multiple posts too, but I see 1,3 & 5. 2 & 4 seem to be 
missing.. 

Strange... I've also seen replies too missing posts, but hadn't really thought 
about it.

Good luck,
L G

On Jan 7, 2012, at 8:19 AM, Glenn Martin  wrote:

> On 1/7/2012 8:16 AM, Glenn Martin wrote:
>> On 1/7/2012 8:13 AM, Glenn Martin wrote:
>>> Why is it that half the posts I send to KRNet I have to send 2 or 3 
>>> times to get them to post, and half the things I see referred to in 
>>> other peoples posts I never get (I do not use a spam filter at all).
>> 2nd time sent
>> 
> 3rd time sent
> 
> -- 
> Glenn Martin, 2Lt
> Director Of Communications, MS-066
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Re: Something wrong with KRNET

[Glenn Martin]

On 1/7/2012 8:16 AM, Glenn Martin wrote:
> On 1/7/2012 8:13 AM, Glenn Martin wrote:
>> Why is it that half the posts I send to KRNet I have to send 2 or 3 
>> times to get them to post, and half the things I see referred to in 
>> other peoples posts I never get (I do not use a spam filter at all).
> 2nd time sent
>
3rd time sent

-- 
Glenn Martin, 2Lt
Director Of Communications, MS-066

KR> Re: Something wrong with KRNET

[Glenn Martin]

On 1/7/2012 8:13 AM, Glenn Martin wrote:
> Why is it that half the posts I send to KRNet I have to send 2 or 3 
> times to get them to post, and half the things I see referred to in 
> other peoples posts I never get (I do not use a spam filter at all).
2nd time sent

-- 
Glenn Martin, 2Lt
Director Of Communications, MS-066

KR> Re: Diehl Nose Gear Spacer

[Dave_A]

I have a new-in-packaging Diehl gear assembly waiting for me in FL

I'll let you know how thick the spacer is, when I get down there & get 
started installing it...

On 1/5/2012 9:24 PM:
> From: Chris corbine
> Netters,
>
> There is a spacer (thick washer) that goes between the pivot and the tire
> yoke. Could someone please give me the dimensions of this spacer? I am
> primarily concerned with the thickness any other information would be
> greatly appreciated.
>
> Thank You,
> Chris Corbine
> N5834-Porkopolis
>
>
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Re: Diehl Nose Gear Spacer

[smwood]

Try contacting Dan Diehl at 918-299-4445 or email at d...@diehlaero.com
http://diehlaero.com/

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

From: Chris corbine 
Netters,

There is a spacer (thick washer) that goes between the pivot and the tire 
yoke. Could someone please give me the dimensions of this spacer? I am 
primarily concerned with the thickness any other information would be 
greatly appreciated.

Thank You,
Chris Corbine
N5834-Porkopolis

KR> RE: KRnet Digest, Rotary Anyone?

[Joe Beyer]

I have a little stick time in a rotary powered aircraft. A Coot amphibian
with a pilon mounted Mazda 12A with electronic ignition, 2:1 reduction with
a 5 blade ground adjustable prop. It slows down to 500rpm and takes off at
about 6800rpm. Very smooth operation but very high fuel consumption. Also
extremely loud. It had nitrous oxide injection which added another thousand
rpm for takeoff. It got you up on the step and off the water. About 2100
lbs. empty weight. Not for the light sport pilot.

Joe
Eagle Creek, Ore.

KR> RE: Aeropoxy

[robert7...@aol.com]

Joe,

I used Aeropoxy on my wings, I used the gallon kit if I recall correctly. I 
 recommend making up the epoxy in small batches as you move along, not a 
large  pot - it will cook off. Aeropoxy comes with set mix ratio, I used a set 
of West  System pumps which matched the required ratio. I took the Aeropoxy 
resin and  hardener and put it in containers that the West pumps would mate 
to without  problems. This simplified things greatly and made for a way of 
mixing batches  quickly.

Thanks,

Rob Schmitt
N1852Z
_www.robert7721.com_ (http://www.robert7721.com) 

From: cruz...@frontiernet.net
Subject: KR> Aeropoxy
To:  kr...@mylist.net
Message-ID:
<233746709.11955.1325293098664.javamail.r...@cl05-host04.roch.ny.frontiernet
.net>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8


I am wondering how much Aeropoxy I will need for wing construction  on my 
KR2S. How much should I have on hand while laying up the fiberglass ? I  plan 
just one layer of glass at a time with peel-ply.Is there is a method to  
figure how much to mix for a given area ? From previous experience with the  
older type Rand resins ,I always seemed to have extra resin gone to waste.   
Also is the one hour hardener enough time to wet out one layer of glass? I'm 
 thinking it's plenty of time with this lower viscosity type resin.

Happy  New Year 

Joe  Cruz
KR2S
Spencer,NY

KR> Re: Cranks and Flywheels

[Russell Barmett]

Has anyone ever considered the quality of the line bore in the case and the 
tolorance of the main bearings?  I would think that a very good fit on the main 
bearing journals would help keep the crank from flexing as much. Some people 
may put in a crank and bearings and as long as it turns it is OK maybe leaving 
excessive clearance in the mains.Just thought i would throw that out there 
for what it is worth. 

Russ Barnett
N8227   

KR> Re: KRnet Digest, Vol 353, Issue 355

[robert7...@aol.com]

Seth,

I just used the zinc chromate spray can on my wing attach fittings as  the 
primer then hit it with a black rustolem for the final coat. Works  fine.

Rob Schmitt
N1852Z



In a message dated 12/25/2011 11:00:57 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
krnet-requ...@mylist.net writes:

From:  Seth and Karen Jersild 
Subject: KR> steel and  aluminum protection--suggestions?
To: kr...@mylist.net
Message-ID:  <4ef7a60b.8000...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;  charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed


> Hello all, and Merry  Christmas--

I just received my wing attach fittings from the shop and  am wondering 
if any of you have specific recommendations for protecting  4130 
steel--specific types of paint or protective coatings that you  
particularly like and  trust.

KR> Re: Cad program for RAF-48

[velocityo...@yahoo.com]

Russell, 
I don't think you got my first response but on the ribs. When you fit the ribs 
you will cut them up to fit the skins. It won't be anywhere near the drawing 
anyway. You will take off about 3/8 inch in most places. This will be done by 
fitting so it's not anything that you could practically do before hand. Its a 
very simple process. I built my wings under Dan's supervision in 5 days start 
to finish and that included 2 fuel tanks. 
Give me a call if you want before you get started and I would be happy to give 
you some tips. 

Victor Taylor
Irvington, Alabama 
251-377-5216

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 22, 2011, at 9:25 PM, Russell Barmett  wrote:

> I am finding that the wing ribs for the Diehl wing skins are not as accurate 
> as i would like to have them (just saw cut to the line)  I would like to get 
> a program 
> so i could run the RAF-48 airfoil on a CNC machining center. Does anyone have 
> any 
> suggestions???
> 
> Thanks
> Russ Barnett
> Ozark, MO.
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Re: KR-2 Fuse at the EAA Woodworking Workshop

[smwood]

Rich,
I trailered my KR-2 fuselage to the EAA Woodworking Workshop in 1994 to 
demonstrate installation of the Diehl wingskin kit.  We did not finish the 
wings that week, but did get a pretty good start.  My snail's pace 
construction was greatly speeded up that week.
I was also convinced that week to convert to the fixed tri-gear.

I work with Mark Forss at AirVenture in the Composites Workshop every year. 
Highly recommend the volunteer experience at Oshkosh.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

-
Hi folks,

I had a chat yesterday with EAA's Mark Forss. He is the gentleman who 
coordinates the traveling road show that is EAA's SportAir Workshops. They 
came to near-by Columbus, Ohio in late October. The timing and proximity 
could hardly be better so I took in the composites workshop taught by Mark 
Forss himself.

Recently, while looking through KRNet's archives I discovered an article 
from the Oct. 1975 Sport Aviation about the woodworking workshop at 
Airventure turning out a KR-2 fuse and most of a horizontal stab by weeks 
end. I had been wanting to fire off a note of thanks to Mark for such a well 
done effort on the October workshop when the thought occurred to me that it 
sure would be nice if a KR-2S fuse build were the focus of a workshop coming 
back to a future Oshkosh Airventure workshop.

Now many of you are probably well past needing something like this, but I'm 
sure some of us would be greatly benefited and that would be a great way to 
draw attention to the KR in an audience of likely builders.

Mark tells me that there are several woodworking projects being considered 
for upcoming Osh workshops and though the KR-2S wasn't one of them, he'd see 
that it was "thrown in the hat".

Mark's email addy is mfo...@eaa.org and I bet it would "ramp up the 
momentum" if others among us fired off a note to him supporting the idea. 
Just a thought.

Thanks,

Rich

KR> Re: Prop (flight adjustable)

[stef...@kpnmail.nl]

Hi Sid,
Thanks for youre sponce. Sorry for my late.
I know it is much more complex with the in flight adjustable. It will cost you 
more mony an weight ( 2000 $ / 16LBS). But if there is not that much different 
in the numbers I think I will plan the ground adjustible on the 95 HP.

Tanks Stef.









Stef and Ted are building the KR-2S see   
http://www.masttotaalconcept.nl/kr2





Van: krnet-bounces+stefkr2=kpnmail...@mylist.net namens smwood
Verzonden: wo 30-11-2011 15:17
Aan: kr...@mylist.net
Onderwerp: KR> Re: Prop (flight adjustable) 



An in flight adjustable prop is something like an automatic transmission in
a car.  You can better match the takeoff, climb and cruise performance for
your engine and airframe.  It works great on a 215 horsepower T-34B.
However, a KR-2S application may be somewhat unknown.
Down side is the increased weight and complexity plus there is another
control to properly use.  You can also easily destroy an engine with
improper use of the prop pitch control.  Some engines, such as the direct
drive VW, will not long tolerate the heavier weight and gyro loading of a
controllable pitch prop trying to break the crank shaft.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

---
What is your experiance about the in flight adjustible prop?
Is it wirth the weight and money? Or should I buy next year(S) a ground
adjustible 3 blade. I planned a 95 HP engine.
Stef

Stef and Ted are building the KR-2S see
http://www.masttotaalconcept.nl/kr2





___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> RE: short span aircraft

[zorc...@aol.com]

In a message dated 12/20/2011 1:13:55 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,  
gmisyst...@cox.net writes:

Barney  Wainfan of Wind Tunnel in Kit planes a few years ago wrote an 
article  extolling the possible advantages of low aspect design. 
The article can  probably be located in the Kitplanes' archives. About five 
years ago or so if  memory serves.   
John Milland  
___
Search the KRnet Archives at  http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a  message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at  http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> RE: short span aircraft

[J M]

Barney Wainfan of Wind Tunnel in Kitplanes a few years ago wrote an article 
extolling the possible advantages of low aspect design. 
The article can probably be located in the Kitplanes' archives. About five 
years ago or so if memory serves.   
John Milland 

KR> RE: Flying Stories

[Jeff York]

Rob,

Great hearing from you. Fantastic story and adventure. Isnt it funny the 
attention a KR can get even in the company of some other outstanding airplanes. 
I had hoped to catch up with you again when I was in KC a few months ago. 
Unfortunately I left home without your contact information and my schedule was 
very limited while I was there.

Good to hear a great KR story from you.

Merry Christmas,


Jeff York
Georgetown. Scott County FAA airport of the year
2010 KR2 Gathering Peoples Choice and Best Interior
2011 Air Fest Best Experimental, Best Instrument Panel




 From: Robert7721 <robert7...@aol.com>
To: kr...@mylist.net 
Sent: Monday, December 19, 2011 1:58 PM
Subject: KR> RE: Flying Stories


Flying Stories;

I had one of my best trips in October this year. The flight was from Kansas 
City up to Granite Falls, MN (KGDB). I used the KR2S for business which is 
pretty rare, but in this case the weather looked good and the time I saved was 
even better. To get to Granite Falls you have to fly commercial to Minneapolis, 
then drive  2 1/2 hours to Granite Falls. Flying the KR was only 3 to 4 hours 
each way depending the headwind/tailwind. That wasn?t' the coolest part 
however. Granite Falls airport is the home of Ron Fagen (Owner of Fagen Inc.)  
My business visit was to see the Fagen folks regarding an Engineering project 
my company is developing with their construction folks. Ron Fagen is big in the 
aviation community and owns several warbirds. Two of the more famous ones are 
specifically the P38 ?Ruff Stuff? and the P51 ?Twilight Tear? which won the 
Grand Champion Warbird at Oshkosh this last summer.  I got a personal tour of 
Ron's warbirds up close -
 wow!  I also got to go into their restoration shop where they are now 
restoring a P40 Warhawk ? which will be at least the 3rd one flying that Ron 
owns. Ron saw my little KR2S on the ramp and had to come out and look it over 
himself!  You wouldn?t think a little KR would get someone?s attention like 
Ron, but he was genuinely interested and asked several questions about it. Ron 
is building a WWII museum on the airport which will probably be open sometime 
in 2012 for pubic visitors. The Hanger will be a direct replica of a WWII 
facility with his airplanes in it. Definitely, this will be on my future flight 
lists.

Link to the Oshkosh story on Twilight Tear is 

http://www.airventure.org/news/2011/110728_p51.html

Thanks,

Rob Schmitt
N1852Z
www.robert7721.com


List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Sun, 18 Dec 2011 07:28:58 -0600
From: Mike Sylvester <shagste...@hotmail.com>
Subject: KR> flying stories ?
To: KRNET <kr...@mylist.net>
Message-ID: <bay167-w9fdb23f459ee428e0f196c4...@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"


___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> RE: Flying Stories

[Robert7721]

Flying Stories;

I had one of my best trips in October this year. The flight was from Kansas 
City up to Granite Falls, MN (KGDB). I used the KR2S for business which is 
pretty rare, but in this case the weather looked good and the time I saved was 
even better. To get to Granite Falls you have to fly commercial to Minneapolis, 
then drive  2 1/2 hours to Granite Falls. Flying the KR was only 3 to 4 hours 
each way depending the headwind/tailwind. That wasn?t' the coolest part 
however. Granite Falls airport is the home of Ron Fagen (Owner of Fagen Inc.)  
My business visit was to see the Fagen folks regarding an Engineering project 
my company is developing with their construction folks. Ron Fagen is big in the 
aviation community and owns several warbirds. Two of the more famous ones are 
specifically the P38 ?Ruff Stuff? and the P51 ?Twilight Tear? which won the 
Grand Champion Warbird at Oshkosh this last summer.  I got a personal tour of 
Ron's warbirds up close - wow!  I also got to go into their restoration shop 
where they are now restoring a P40 Warhawk ? which will be at least the 3rd one 
flying that Ron owns. Ron saw my little KR2S on the ramp and had to come out 
and look it over himself!  You wouldn?t think a little KR would get someone?s 
attention like Ron, but he was genuinely interested and asked several questions 
about it. Ron is building a WWII museum on the airport which will probably be 
open sometime in 2012 for pubic visitors. The Hanger will be a direct replica 
of a WWII facility with his airplanes in it. Definitely, this will be on my 
future flight lists.

Link to the Oshkosh story on Twilight Tear is 

http://www.airventure.org/news/2011/110728_p51.html

Thanks,

Rob Schmitt
N1852Z
www.robert7721.com


List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Sun, 18 Dec 2011 07:28:58 -0600
From: Mike Sylvester 
Subject: KR> flying stories ?
To: KRNET 
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

KR> Re: Flying Stories

[Glenn Martin]

Ive been LOVING the time spent sanding my KR..Getting to see whats 
underneath all that paint, doing inspections that give me faith in her 
basic structure. I'm slowly getting there, at least to where i can begin 
gluing broken glue joints, and patching up fiberglass dings and cracks. 
The time just FLYS. BTW..Look for the news this afternoon here. My CFI 
told me that were going up at 3pm, and if it goes as well as it did 
yesterday, I'm gonna get my tailwheel endorsement. 
-- 
Glenn Martin,
KR2 N1333A,
Biloxi, MS

KR> Re: Ellison efs2

[923te]

Hi Russ
I have one of these that I bought but no longer have the project I bought it for
http://www.aeroconversions.com/products/aerocarb/

Let me know if you are interested
Ned

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 17, 2011, at 12:47 PM, Russell Barmett  wrote:

> Does anyone happen to have an Ellison carb for the 1834cc Volks engine that 
> they 
> would be willing to sell?
> Thanks 
> Russ Barnett
> N8227 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Re: Ellison efs2

[Lee Parker]

Check out the Rotec TBI




From: Russell Barmett <rbarn...@ipa.net>
To: KR net <kr...@mylist.net> 
Sent: Saturday, December 17, 2011 1:47 PM
Subject: KR> Re: Ellison efs2

Does anyone happen to have an Ellison carb for the 1834cc Volks engine that 
they 
would be willing to sell?
Thanks 
Russ Barnett
N8227 

___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Re: Ellison efs2

[Russell Barmett]

Does anyone happen to have an Ellison carb for the 1834cc Volks engine that 
they 
would be willing to sell?
Thanks 
Russ Barnett
N8227 

KR> Re: Air Fuel Ratio

[Dene Collett]

Steven,
I applaud you and your attitude towards engine management. I have also
broken away from the distributor ignition and gone "electronic", well sort
of. I have every component in the system backed up by a secondary.
Having the oxygen sensor is a good idea. You will probably have to set the
mapping of whatever controller you use by tweaking a few parameters while
monitoring performance at various RPM ranges with the mixture pot set to a
neutral position. After that you can make it run richer or leaner by setting
the mixture pot to where you want it on the O2 meter.
I am currently doing precisely that on a revmaster that I have turbo charged
and fitted with EFI.

Regards
Dene Collett
Avlec Projects cc
Port Elizabeth 
South Africa
To earn 100% commisions follow the link below:
http://www.empowernetwork.com/almostasecret.php?id=Dene1

> >-Original Message-
> >From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On
Behalf Of
> >smwood
> >Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2011 4:08 PM
> >To: kr...@mylist.net
> >Subject: KR> Re: Air Fuel Ratio
> >
> >Stephen,
> >The fully programmable ignition system may need some help to set the
> >mixture.  A simpler way is to install an Oxygen sensor in the exhaust
system
> >to feed a Mixture Meter aka Air/Fuel Ratio (AFR).  Then you can set the
> >mixture exactly to what you want it to be in real time while flying for
any
> >power setting and any altitude.  (Assuming you do have a manual mixture
> >control somewhere in the fuel system.)  No more waiting to see which
> >cylinder peaks first and other such antiquated methods.
> >
> >Sid Wood
> >Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> >Mechanicsville, MD, USA
> >smw...@md.metrocast.net
> >
>
>---
---
> >...I have just decided to break from my original edict and purchase a
fully
> >programmable ignition system instead of keeping everything stock. This
will
> >allow me to program my A/F ratio and ignition advance or retard at any
RPM ,
> >any boost, and any load. Something a modern "certified" aircraft engine
> >could never hope to do.
> >But weather I make 1 hours or not even 10, people believe what they
> >want, and that is just the way it is. So if you think you can do it
better
> >and or different then get after it. Change will happen.
> >
> >Stephen Teate
> >Paradise, Texas
> >
> >Stephen Teate
> >Paradise, Texas
> >
> >
> >
> >___
> >Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> >to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> >please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Re: Air Fuel Ratio

[smwood]

Stephen,
The fully programmable ignition system may need some help to set the 
mixture.  A simpler way is to install an Oxygen sensor in the exhaust system 
to feed a Mixture Meter aka Air/Fuel Ratio (AFR).  Then you can set the 
mixture exactly to what you want it to be in real time while flying for any 
power setting and any altitude.  (Assuming you do have a manual mixture 
control somewhere in the fuel system.)  No more waiting to see which 
cylinder peaks first and other such antiquated methods.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

--
...I have just decided to break from my original edict and purchase a fully 
programmable ignition system instead of keeping everything stock. This will 
allow me to program my A/F ratio and ignition advance or retard at any RPM , 
any boost, and any load. Something a modern "certified" aircraft engine 
could never hope to do.
But weather I make 1 hours or not even 10, people believe what they 
want, and that is just the way it is. So if you think you can do it better 
and or different then get after it. Change will happen.

Stephen Teate
Paradise, Texas

Stephen Teate
Paradise, Texas

KR> Re: KR2 spars

[Phillip E. Harrison]

Greg,   
I am working on a kr2 project. I brought it to University of Alabama
where the engineering guru's and their students are using it as a learning
tool.
One of the things they are exploring is composite spars with
removable out board wing sections using the as5048/46. They will build wing
spar with wing attach to test. I will be glad to share the results.
They also have decided to go with retractable gear. So I can offer
you / ( kr netters) the fixed gear, wheels...
Question: I see there is a combined 48/45 wing template set has
anyone built a 48/46?   Does anyone have insight/suggestions on this
combination?
Phillip 

-Original Message-
From: krnet-bounces+mistion=earthlink@mylist.net
[mailto:krnet-bounces+mistion=earthlink@mylist.net] On Behalf Of smwood
Sent: Monday, November 14, 2011 9:05 AM
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: KR> Re: KR2 spars

The Lancair 320/360 and the Pulsar XP have all composite construction, fuel 
in the wings and removable wings.  The Lancair wing spars are attached with 
only two bolts for both wings at the two common attachment points inside the

fuselage.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net


--
Hi Dave

Many thanks the reply. I am well familiar with the KR2 Super and its 
website, have been studying it since February of this year as well as many 
other KR builders sites.

I like the KR2Super very much and building with composites is no problem for

me - been doing for about ten years for model RC planes ( a different story 
but composites are not new to me). As usual one sets out with a plan and a 
list of desires which normally are not fulfilled in every way by existing 
designs - in other words one tends to like different things about different 
designs but never finds the "ultimate solution". So I want a two seat, side 
by side and homebuilt from plans. It would be great if it could fit into LSA

limits (again a wishful thought). That led me to KR and the KR2S. Further 
research led me to alternative materials due to wood availability in my 
country. I found the KR Super and got excited.

Trouble for me though is I want the original wing design with WAF's, fixed 
undercarriage, fuel tanks in the stub wings and I want to put it onto a 
trailer to take home in winter and save storage cost for fuel! Scott's KR2 
Super does not allow for this with his spar design. I also like the way Mark

has rebuilt his wings - from the fotos it is a far simpler construction the 
the Supers but he used "beefed up" woodens spars.

I also find nothing difficult/complicated about the Supers spar design - 
website has excellent instructions, very good foto's and if followed 
correctly and taking care with the layups and methods an easy part to make.

I am by no means a designer and would be lying if I said I understood half 
the technical discussion on spar design so was hoping to compare what I have

found out and worked with to someone else who may be more familiar with the 
design aspects of a spar.

So back to my original question/query - has anyone designed alternative 
composite wing spars using the original WAF's mountings design idea?

thanks again

Greg
--




___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Re: KRnet Digest, Vol 353, Issue 336

[Tom Lynch]

Sent from my MetroPCS Wireless Phone

krnet-requ...@mylist.net wrote:

>Send KRnet mailing list submissions to
>   kr...@mylist.net
>
>To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>   http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet
>or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>   krnet-requ...@mylist.net
>
>You can reach the person managing the list at
>   krnet-ow...@mylist.net
>
>When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..."
>
>
>Today's Topics:
>
>   1.  For sale Deihl Cowling (Margaret Davis)
>
>
>--
>
>Message: 1
>Date: Wed, 7 Dec 2011 14:44:16 -0800 (PST)
>From: Margaret Davis 
>Subject: KR> For sale Deihl Cowling
>To: kr...@mylist.net
>Message-ID:
>   <1323297856.29619.yahoomailclas...@web120501.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
>Hi Guys, If anyone is interested I have a new Deihl cowling for a VW KR -2. 
>Never used. Brad
>
>--
>
>___
>See KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
>
>End of KRnet Digest, Vol 353, Issue 336
>***
>


RN Degree Programs
Attend Class Anytime Day or Night! Earn Your Degree in Nursing Online
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4ee0f7e0e7c939e8c9est04duc

KR> RE: KR Canadian Bingelis etal/Eaa books

[Tim]

I only go with US Postal Service or No dealCanada Post is their own 
broker, so '0' extra fee's

Time line about same , Courriers also might end up at Customs so delay & 
extra charges.Big companies in Bed with banks but maybe Courrier's also 
( ? ;-)

CldLk-Tim
Free West


- Original Message - 
From: <garya...@kwic.com>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Friday, December 02, 2011 7:51 AM
Subject: KR> RE: KR Canadian Bingelis etal/Eaa books


RE: KR> Canadian Bingelis etal/Eaa books
To all Canadian KR people and other lurkers like me, whenever you order 
books from EAA be sure to have them shipped by USpost as they (EAA) usually 
use Purlator or some other type and you will be faced with an additional 
'brokerage fee'. I ordered their Christmas special of the 3 book Bingelis 
Special several years ago and was faced with an additional $38 brokerage 
fee - not nice!. I phoned EAA about it and got no satisfaction and wonder if 
their shipping rules still apply. ( I/we now have a US drop box that is only 
60 miles away for USA purchases - eliminating high delivery charges etc)


Gary Canada




-Original Message-

From: Larry Flesner

Sent: Fri, 02 December 2011 14:18:29

To: KRnet

Subject: RE: KR> Instrument panel wire







When in doubt, consult your Tony Bingelis book with the chart of amp

loads and wire size needed, in a bundle or open air. Everyone

building should have all of Tony's books, especially his first

three. "..Larry Flesner







___

Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp

to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net

please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html







___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html 

KR> RE: KR Canadian Bingelis etal/Eaa books

[garya...@kwic.com]

RE: KR> Canadian Bingelis etal/Eaa books
 To all Canadian KR people and other lurkers like me, whenever you order books 
from EAA be sure to have them shipped by USpost as they (EAA) usually use 
Purlator or some  other type and you will be faced with an additional 
'brokerage fee'. I ordered their Christmas special of the 3 book Bingelis 
Special several years ago and was faced with an additional $38 brokerage fee - 
not nice!. I phoned EAA about it and got no satisfaction and wonder if their 
shipping rules still apply. ( I/we now have a US drop box that is only 60 miles 
away for USA purchases - eliminating high delivery charges etc)


Gary Canada




-Original Message-

From: Larry Flesner 

Sent: Fri, 02 December 2011 14:18:29

To: KRnet 

Subject: RE: KR> Instrument panel wire







When in doubt, consult your Tony Bingelis book with the chart of amp 

loads and wire size needed, in a bundle or open air. Everyone 

building should have all of Tony's books, especially his first 

three. "..Larry Flesner







___

Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp

to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net

please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Re: Prop (flight adjustable)

[smwood]

An in flight adjustable prop is something like an automatic transmission in 
a car.  You can better match the takeoff, climb and cruise performance for 
your engine and airframe.  It works great on a 215 horsepower T-34B. 
However, a KR-2S application may be somewhat unknown.
Down side is the increased weight and complexity plus there is another 
control to properly use.  You can also easily destroy an engine with 
improper use of the prop pitch control.  Some engines, such as the direct 
drive VW, will not long tolerate the heavier weight and gyro loading of a 
controllable pitch prop trying to break the crank shaft.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

---
What is your experiance about the in flight adjustible prop?
Is it wirth the weight and money? Or should I buy next year(S) a ground 
adjustible 3 blade. I planned a 95 HP engine.
Stef

Stef and Ted are building the KR-2S see 
http://www.masttotaalconcept.nl/kr2

KR> Re: Diehl Wing skins

[smwood]

Russ,
The Diehl plans call for putting the bottom skin on first then put on the 
top skins.  Before you do the top skin, put in the inspection ports in the 
bottom skins.  That's a lot easier to do at that stage.  If you are careful 
in cutting out the holes, you can use the cutout piece as a cover plate for 
the inspection hole.  I used a Dremel tool with tiny router bit and a router 
adapter taped to a hole cutting guide.  Lowes has all the parts.
You will need inspection holes big enough to get one hand and arm through. 
Put them everywhere there is a nut or bolt head or vent pipe for a fuel 
cell.  I have 26 openings on the bottom of my wings and everyone has a 
needed purpose.
Don't worry over the exact dimension of the airfoil shape of the ribs.  When 
you get them glued between the spars, you will have to cut them down as much 
as 1/4-inch to allow for the varying thickness of the Diehl skins.  Then you 
use lots of VE flox to fill the gaps.  When the top skin goes on, you can 
reach in through the inspection ports and make sure the flox is 
finger-filleted in all the joints.  That is especially important to close 
leaks on the blind side of the fuel cells.  (Been there, done that.)
You vary the gel time for the vinylester by adjusting the amount of catalyst 
you use.  The higher the temperature the faster it goes off.  The 
instruction ratio calls for 4 cc catalyst to 8 oz resin.  You can use 1 cc 
per 8 oz and it still works ok.  Do use a calibrated syringe for the 
catalyst.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

--
Hi Russ,
 I used Dan's skins on my KR2 some years ago and was fortunate in having
met Dan at a gathering. I think I was the first to use them in the UK ,and
had no problems except that the rib cut out markings didn't correspond
somehow .
 I contacted Dan and he reassured me that my markings were not
accurate ( it was in the '90's and I've forgotten how exactly-but I'll look
up my notes if you can't get better advice).
 One thing I do remember is how fast vinylester goes off , so you have to
get a reliable pal and rehearse the procedure.
  I also had to open inspection panels in the lower skins to satisfy our
inspection authorities who would reinvent the wheel if it hadn't been made
in Birmingham!

Cheers,   Mac  ex  KR2 G-BVZJ
On Mon, Nov 21, 2011 at 3:41 PM, Russell Barmett  wrote:

>
> Is there anyone that is getting ready to do Diehl wing skins on thier
> KR?
> I have a stock KR and will be attempting to do the wing skins soon. I have
> already modified the spar to the 4-15/16" at the outboard end. I purchased
> the skins and ribs from a builder a lot of years ago and the ribs were
> already cut from the sheet.
> However how do i verify that the ribs are correct and as accurate as they
> need to be? What is the spacing for the ribs?  and i need some information
> on the spar extension.
>I would be willing to help anyone that is getting ready to do this in
> my area
> I am in SW MO.
>My goal is to fly to MVN Sept 2012
>
>Forgive me if i make a mistake on the KRlist ( I am computer 
> challanged)
>
>Thanks in advance for the help.
>
> Russ Barnett
> rbarn...@ipa.net
> N8227
>

KR> Re: Proseal help?

[Dave_A]

Proseal 'cures' to a rubbery substance, not a hard one like epoxy.

Before it cures, it's the 'adhesive from hell' - sticky, gooey mess that 
gets on everything, intended workpiece or otherwise, and stinks to hell 
& back

One of the messiest jobs I can remember, was replacing the cockpit 
windows on an OH-58. They are attached with proseal and rivets.

On 11/21/2011 1:20 AM, Rodger wrote:
> Thanks all, I think I found my answer. According to an article on Van's 
> website, it will take up to 3-4 days for it to cure tack free and another 2-3 
> days for it to fully cure. What a pain! Note to self: Get tanks welded on 
> next project.
> Rodger
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 20, 2011, at 11:27 AM, Rodger  wrote:
>
>> FYI: I mixed the entire 1 pint resin and hardener (100/10 mixture) while 
>> working in about 65 degrees ambient temp.
>> Rodger
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Nov 20, 2011, at 10:09 AM, Rodger  wrote:
>>
>>> Netters,
>>> Is Proseal supposed to harden like epoxy or is it supposed be a gooey tar 
>>> like mess?  I used the two hour stuff on my first tank, yet it has not set 
>>> up. I tried a heater after 12 hours and it just runs more. What can I do to 
>>> fix this?
>>> Rodger
>>> bandenok...@gmail.com
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ___
>> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
>> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Re: Proseal help?

[keni...@aol.com]

Yes Proseal can be very slow to cure at 65*, especially the 2 hr stuff. We  
usually use B1/2 (1/2 hr working time) on most aircraft I work on and 
figure at  least 72 hrs for a descent cure at above 75*F. If you are using the 
"A" type it  is quite runny for a long time! If you can warm it up a bit it 
may help speed up  the cure.


In a message dated 11/20/2011 1:50:55 P.M. Mountain Standard Time,  
bandenok...@gmail.com writes:

Thanks  all, I think I found my answer. According to an article on Van's 
website, it  will take up to 3-4 days for it to cure tack free and another 2-3 
days for it  to fully cure. What a pain! Note to self: Get tanks welded 
on next  project. 
Rodger 

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 20, 2011, at  11:27 AM, Rodger  wrote:

> FYI: I mixed  the entire 1 pint resin and hardener (100/10 mixture) while 
working in about  65 degrees ambient temp. 
> Rodger
> 
> Sent from my  iPhone
> 
> On Nov 20, 2011, at 10:09 AM, Rodger   wrote:
> 
>> Netters,
>>  Is Proseal supposed to harden like epoxy or is it supposed be a gooey 
tar like  mess?  I used the two hour stuff on my first tank, yet it has not 
set up.  I tried a heater after 12 hours and it just runs more. What can I do 
to fix  this?
>> Rodger 
>> bandenok...@gmail.com
>>  
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>  ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at  http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet,  send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info  at  http://www.krnet.org/info.html

___
Search  the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to  UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see  other KRnet info at  http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Re: Proseal help?

[Rodger]

Thanks all, I think I found my answer. According to an article on Van's 
website, it will take up to 3-4 days for it to cure tack free and another 2-3 
days for it to fully cure. What a pain! Note to self: Get tanks welded on 
next project. 
Rodger 

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 20, 2011, at 11:27 AM, Rodger  wrote:

> FYI: I mixed the entire 1 pint resin and hardener (100/10 mixture) while 
> working in about 65 degrees ambient temp. 
> Rodger
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Nov 20, 2011, at 10:09 AM, Rodger  wrote:
> 
>> Netters,
>> Is Proseal supposed to harden like epoxy or is it supposed be a gooey tar 
>> like mess?  I used the two hour stuff on my first tank, yet it has not set 
>> up. I tried a heater after 12 hours and it just runs more. What can I do to 
>> fix this?
>> Rodger 
>> bandenok...@gmail.com
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Re: Proseal help?

[Rodger]

FYI: I mixed the entire 1 pint resin and hardener (100/10 mixture) while 
working in about 65 degrees ambient temp. 
Rodger

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 20, 2011, at 10:09 AM, Rodger  wrote:

> Netters,
> Is Proseal supposed to harden like epoxy or is it supposed be a gooey tar 
> like mess?  I used the two hour stuff on my first tank, yet it has not set 
> up. I tried a heater after 12 hours and it just runs more. What can I do to 
> fix this?
> Rodger 
> bandenok...@gmail.com
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone

KR> RE: Fuel tank pick up and vent

[Dan Heath]

There is much more than you want to know at:
http://krbuilder.org/ConvertingToWingTanks/index.html

But the vent line and fuel pick up are in there.  The actual vent is simply
a bulkhead fitting with one end cut off at an angle and fit through the
bottom of the wing.  I can take a pic of that if you like.  I copied it from
what the RV guys do.  Also, the fuel pickup is a copy of the way it is done
on the RV.

See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics 
See you at the 2012 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il – MVN – 40th
Anniversary
There is a time for building and it never seems to end.
Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC


-Original Message-

> I'm about ready to close up my aluminum wing fuel tanks and need some
advice on the pick up and vent. These tanks are very similar to those on
Mark Jones' website

KR> RE: Fuel tank pick up and vent

[Rodger]

Joe,
Thank you. That's kinda what I was thinking for the vent. 

Rodger


On Nov 17, 2011, at 8:37 PM, "Joe Beyer"  wrote:

> 
>> I'm about ready to close up my aluminum wing fuel tanks and need some
> advice on the pick up and vent. These tanks are very similar to those on
> Mark Jones' website. 
>> 1: I'm thinking of eliminating the pick up tube and installing the AN
> fitting, with a finger screen attached, right near the bottom of the tank. I
> think this setup would prevent the possibility of a loose pick up tube
> falling off inside the tank.
>> 2: I'm installing the filler/ cap toward the wing tip end of the tank.
> What are your thought of a simple 1/4" tube attached on the filler neck
> pointing toward the airstream above the wing like the header tank design in
> the KR plans? Or should I attach the tube to the filler neck and route it
> out the bottom of the wing? Which would perform better? Pro and cons?
>> Your thoughts and ideas are welcomed. 
>> 
>> Rodger Nicolls 
>> bandenok...@gmail.com
>> 
>> Blue skies!
> 
> 
> I would install the vent line into the lower skin, extend it through the 
> underside pointing downward. Cut a 50deg. angle in the tube on the foreword
> face to give you positive air flow. I did this on my composite tank,
> extending the vent tube through the firewall and downward with that angle. I
> didn't want a ram air effect that pressurizes the tank with increased
> airspeed speed. Also I attached a little screen to the bottom of the vent.
> 
> Joe
> 
> Valley View, Ore.
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> RE: Fuel tank pick up and vent

[Joe Beyer]

> I'm about ready to close up my aluminum wing fuel tanks and need some
advice on the pick up and vent. These tanks are very similar to those on
Mark Jones' website. 
> 1: I'm thinking of eliminating the pick up tube and installing the AN
fitting, with a finger screen attached, right near the bottom of the tank. I
think this setup would prevent the possibility of a loose pick up tube
falling off inside the tank.
> 2: I'm installing the filler/ cap toward the wing tip end of the tank.
What are your thought of a simple 1/4" tube attached on the filler neck
pointing toward the airstream above the wing like the header tank design in
the KR plans? Or should I attach the tube to the filler neck and route it
out the bottom of the wing? Which would perform better? Pro and cons?
> Your thoughts and ideas are welcomed. 
> 
> Rodger Nicolls 
> bandenok...@gmail.com
> 
> Blue skies!


 I would install the vent line into the lower skin, extend it through the 
underside pointing downward. Cut a 50deg. angle in the tube on the foreword
face to give you positive air flow. I did this on my composite tank,
extending the vent tube through the firewall and downward with that angle. I
didn't want a ram air effect that pressurizes the tank with increased
airspeed speed. Also I attached a little screen to the bottom of the vent.

Joe

Valley View, Ore.

KR> Re: KRnet Digest, Vol 353, Issue 315

[Roger]

This is an unusual manner of comment... I question the manner that 
"whitehouse.gov" is being utilized... Something is fishy here!!!
Roger

On 11/17/2011 12:00 AM, krnet-requ...@mylist.net wrote:
> Send KRnet mailing list submissions to
>   kr...@mylist.net
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>   http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>   krnet-requ...@mylist.net
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>   krnet-ow...@mylist.net
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1.  Fwd: petition for FAA's upcoming fee's for AeroNav maps
>(kr2coo...@comcast.net)
>
>
> ___
> See KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html

KR> Re: Stock Retracts

[Roger Bulla]

Glenn
I had the stock retracts on my kr for the 22 years I flew it. They can be 
made to work pretty much in stock form. Mine had spring loaded hold-down 
latches, the left side with a positive latch, and never collapsed on some 
very bad landings and on some very rough fields. When dropped in real hard 
the spring bar would pop a hole in the top of the wing roots, but would take 
the punishment. I was going to replace the 3/4 inch spring bar with a 1 inch 
to get rid of some of the sag mine had before I crashed the plane. Having 
said that, I would agree with Larry that spending your resources on fixed 
gear would be a better way to go. My new kr project has Rand fixed gear. If 
you still want to pursue the retracts I have the stock gear legs, wheels, 
mechanical brakes and tires that you are welcome to. Email me if want them.

Roger Bulla
rbu...@cdmsinc.net
--

Message: 3
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 15:04:12 -0600
From: Glenn Martin 
Subject: KR> Stock Retracts
To: KRnet 
Message-ID: <4ebedf4c.7060...@martekmississippi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

As I continue to research the stock retracts on the KR. I keep hearing about 
how hard landings can
overload and possibly bend the landing gear.

-- 
Glenn Martin,
KR2 N1333A,
Biloxi, MS

KR> Re: KR2 spars

[smwood]

The Lancair 320/360 and the Pulsar XP have all composite construction, fuel 
in the wings and removable wings.  The Lancair wing spars are attached with 
only two bolts for both wings at the two common attachment points inside the 
fuselage.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

--
Hi Dave

Many thanks the reply. I am well familiar with the KR2 Super and its 
website, have been studying it since February of this year as well as many 
other KR builders sites.

I like the KR2Super very much and building with composites is no problem for 
me - been doing for about ten years for model RC planes ( a different story 
but composites are not new to me). As usual one sets out with a plan and a 
list of desires which normally are not fulfilled in every way by existing 
designs - in other words one tends to like different things about different 
designs but never finds the "ultimate solution". So I want a two seat, side 
by side and homebuilt from plans. It would be great if it could fit into LSA 
limits (again a wishful thought). That led me to KR and the KR2S. Further 
research led me to alternative materials due to wood availability in my 
country. I found the KR Super and got excited.

Trouble for me though is I want the original wing design with WAF's, fixed 
undercarriage, fuel tanks in the stub wings and I want to put it onto a 
trailer to take home in winter and save storage cost for fuel! Scott's KR2 
Super does not allow for this with his spar design. I also like the way Mark 
has rebuilt his wings - from the fotos it is a far simpler construction the 
the Supers but he used "beefed up" woodens spars.

I also find nothing difficult/complicated about the Supers spar design - 
website has excellent instructions, very good foto's and if followed 
correctly and taking care with the layups and methods an easy part to make.

I am by no means a designer and would be lying if I said I understood half 
the technical discussion on spar design so was hoping to compare what I have 
found out and worked with to someone else who may be more familiar with the 
design aspects of a spar.

So back to my original question/query - has anyone designed alternative 
composite wing spars using the original WAF's mountings design idea?

thanks again

Greg
--

KR> RE: KR2 spars

[Gregory Moss]

Hi Dave

Many thanks the reply. I am well familiar with the KR2 Super and its website, 
have been studying it since February of this year as well as many other KR 
builders sites.

I like the KR2Super very much and building with composites is no problem for me 
- been doing for about ten years for model RC planes ( a different story but 
composites are not new to me). As usual one sets out with a plan and a list of 
desires which normally are not fulfilled in every way by existing designs - in 
other words one tends to like different things about different designs but 
never finds the "ultimate solution". So I want a two seat, side by side and 
homebuilt from plans. It would be great if it could fit into LSA limits (again 
a wishful thought). That led me to KR and the KR2S. Further research led me to 
alternative materials due to wood availability in my country. I found the KR 
Super and got excited.

Trouble for me though is I want the original wing design with WAF's, fixed 
undercarriage, fuel tanks in the stub wings and I want to put it onto a trailer 
to take home in winter and save storage cost for fuel! Scott's KR2 Super does 
not allow for this with his spar design. I also like the way Mark has rebuilt 
his wings - from the fotos it is a far simpler construction the the Supers but 
he used "beefed up" woodens spars.

I also find nothing difficult/complicated about the Supers spar design - 
website has excellent instructions, very good foto's and if followed correctly 
and taking care with the layups and methods an easy part to make.

I am by no means a designer and would be lying if I said I understood half the 
technical discussion on spar design so was hoping to compare what I have found 
out and worked with to someone else who may be more familiar with the design 
aspects of a spar.

So back to my original question/query - has anyone designed alternative 
composite wing spars using the original WAF's mountings design idea?

thanks again

Greg
--

Message: 4
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 11:06:44 -0600
From: "Dave McCauley" 
Subject: RE: KR> KR2 spars
To: "'KRnet'" 
Message-ID: <000901cca094$4a7a6140$df6f23c0$@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="us-ascii"

Greg,

I'm building a KR Super2 which is an all composite derivative of the KR2S.
The main spar has a core of 1/2 inch last-a-foam sandwiched with multiple
layers of fiberglass and has spar caps of carbon-fiber rod.  The
construction is complicated and goes very slowly.  It is strong but only 1
inch thick so replacing the wood KR2S box structure wouldn't be easy and
mounting the landing gear would also require much work.  So, I believe you'd
be much better off building the spar per KR2 plans.  If you like to learn
more about building the KR Super2  go to www.krsuper2.com

Dave McCauley

KR> Re: KR-2 Spars

[smwood]

Bill Clapp had formed a company to produce an all fiberglass version of the 
KR-2.  He had exhibited the fuselage at AirVenture two years ago.  Don't 
know if he got any orders.  We made a bet as to who would get their creation 
flying first: Bill or me.  I could not find Bill at AirVenture 2011.  Have 
not heard from Bill lately, so don't know who is winning the bet.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net
-
Greg,

I'm building a KR Super2 which is an all composite derivative of the KR2S.
The main spar has a core of 1/2 inch last-a-foam sandwiched with multiple
layers of fiberglass and has spar caps of carbon-fiber rod.  The
construction is complicated and goes very slowly.  It is strong but only 1
inch thick so replacing the wood KR2S box structure wouldn't be easy and
mounting the landing gear would also require much work.  So, I believe you'd
be much better off building the spar per KR2 plans.  If you like to learn
more about building the KR Super2  go to www.krsuper2.com

Dave McCauley
--
Subject: KR> KR2 spars

Has anyone designed composite spars to replace the wooden style spars used
in the KR series? Maintaining the same design idea, outboard spars
connecting to main spar with the WAF's, but using the modern composite
materials.
___

KR> Re: CorvAircraft> Free at last or the Bird flys again

[Mark Jones]

Dan, Congrats on being back in the air. Your rpm should reach 3400 WOT in 
the air. I have the same prop you do. I would suggest you check your timing. 
If you have it retarded it can cost you power. I did the same thing setting 
mine. It was retarded and when I set the static actually while running full 
rpm, the timing advanced and so did my rpm.


Mark Jones (N886MJ)
Stevens Point, WI
E-mail: flyk...@charter.net
Web: www.flykr2s.com

KR> Re: RAF 48 airfoil

[Patrick Driscoll]

Lee Van Dyke said;   Does anybody have a digital version of the RAF 48 that 
I can take to Kinkos

I downloaded Mark L's drawings to a disk and took it to Kinko;s and they 
gave me a full size printout that I used to cut out the ribs

Patrick Driscoll
Saint Paul, MN
patric...@usfamily.net
www.pensbypat.com
If you can read this, Thank a teacher
If you are reading this in English, thank a veteran 

KR> Re: RAF 48 airfoil

[Brock Schuler]

This can be done with Plotfoil (plot an airfoil out at a
certain size in postscript). If the printers can't print postscript the program
Ghostscript could be used to convert the postscript file to PDF or an image
file. I think Plotfoil is more intended for model airplanes as it seems to work
best with small one-page outputs. I could only get either the top or bottom
section above/below the camber line to print at one time for airfoils larger
than two pages which would require more cutting and pasting. Plotfoil is DOS or
UNIX based and may require an emulator. I could create the PDF or image files
for you if you?re unfamiliar with these programs. I assume both programs output
accurate files but it might be best to manually check the drawings.
Brock
Does anybody have a digital version of the RAF 48 that I can take to Kinkos to 
have them printed up?ie the right size to cut templates.
Lee Van Dyke

KR> Re: antenna length

[Pete Klapp]

Mark / Netters
My antenna is a twin to what you bulit. The top half of the dipole is under the 
glass in the vert stabalizer. The lower half is inside the section of plastic 
wire mold and mounted in a straight line with the other half of the dipole in 
as vertical a line as possible. I have three toroid baluns on the coax at the 
point of connection like yours and held with heat shrink. I did cut the coax at 
a multiple of 20.3" when terminating it at the comm radio. I also added an 
additional grounding sheath over the coax as suggested by Joe Horton and 
grounded it only at one end at the panel. I can clearly hear Akron-Canton tower 
and approach / departure frequencies, but an unable to contact them for a radio 
check. That may be due to the fact that they have a much more powerful 
transmitter and I'm trying to reach them with only 4 to 5 watts and located in 
my basement workshop.
I going to leave things as they are for now and work on other things. I'll wait 
till the plane is out of my work shop to continue testing.
Thanks to all that provided help and some good laughs. Maybe I have the flux 
transducer thingy in backwards.
Pete Klapp

> From: m...@n56ml.com
> To: kr...@mylist.net
> Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 17:43:45 -0500
> Subject: KR> Re: antenna length
> 
> Pete Klapp wrote:
> 
> >>I've read Glenn Martin's explanation for the 20.3" antenna length that you 
> >>used. I have no knowledge on this subject, so I'll just follow these 
> >>recommendations. I do have another question. Did you cut the coax to a 
> >>multiple of the wavelength?<<
> 
> I did cut mine to a multiple of 20.3, and I also used the toroidal baluns 
> that Jim Weir recommends. I also have a friend that's an electrical engineer 
> and HAM radio buff drop by and check the SWR, and he said it was 
> perfect..."don't change a thing". 
> 
> The range of my radio is nothing short of awesome. I routinely hear 
> communications from 200 miles out, and have talked several times with Joe 
> Horton at ranges in the 175 mile range. That aint bad for a homemade antenna 
> made of copper foil... 
> 
> Mark Langford
> ML at N56ML.com
> website at http://www.N56ML.com 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Re: antenna length

[Glenn Martin]

On 11/4/2011 6:23 PM, Larry Flesner wrote:
> I have an antenna as seen onhttp://www.advancedaircraft.com/   ( the
> 5I or 5T.   The antenna is a bit pricey, ( I got mine for free many years
> ago) but you could probably build one for less than $20.


The AAE VHF-5T antenna is a folded dipole (as you recall, I recommended 
that type in an earlier post). This will be pre- tuned, and although it 
will have some minor detuning introduced by ANY installation, that is 
not a major issue, making this probably the BEST antenna to be used in 
the KR. It has lower received noise than the standard antennas used. 
Best installation: Place 1/2 of it up inside the tail and the other 
half  secured safely down below the tail inside the empennage. Keep the 
antenna as straight as you can when installing it in your plane, and as 
close to straight up and down as the plane permits. Bends in the antenna 
will adversely effect it's impedance and radiation pattern. This will 
also give the antenna the proper polarization (comm antennas should be 
vertical polarized) Building the same antenna from scratch is easy,  
getting the original 300 ohm impedance to reduce to 50 ohms is not. The 
MATCHED and TUNED antenna is what costs you the 150 or so bucks. WELL 
WORTH THE COST if your not an radio guy. SEE?? All that damned schooling 
DID pay off!!!

-- 
Glenn Martin,
KR2 N1333A,
Biloxi, MS

KR> Re: antenna length

[Larry Flesner]

At 05:43 PM 11/4/2011, you wrote:
>The range of my radio is nothing short of awesome.  I routinely hear 
>communications from 200 miles out,
>Mark Langford
+

I have an antenna as seen on  http://www.advancedaircraft.com/  ( the 
5I or 5T, I don't recall which) which is tie-wrapped to a cross 
member in the tail cone with the top and bottom ends bent forward to 
fit,  a hand held JRC radio ($250 from A.S.) with a coax of 
unknown length, and I've talked to Langford at a distance of 135 
sm.  The antenna is a bit pricey, ( I got mine for free many years 
ago) but you could probably build one for less than $20.

I bit the bullet and ordered me an IFly 700 GPS this morning. I've 
been wanting one for six months or more.  Getting a "re-conditioned" 
unit for $499.  I was told that a new software update is coming soon 
to give a "3-D" terrain screen as well as being able to rotate the 
unit 90 degrees so the 7 inch side is vertical. Can't wait. :-) 
:-)  With my new exhaust, new GPS, new artificial horizon instrument 
, I'm beginning to think I have a real airplane.  I may even get my 
transponder wired up that I've had in the panel for the last eight 
years. The "inop" sign is beginning to look a bit tattered. :-)

Larry Flesner

KR> Re: antenna length

[Mark Langford]

Pete Klapp wrote:

>>I've read Glenn Martin's explanation for the 20.3" antenna length that you 
>>used. I have no knowledge on this subject, so I'll just follow these 
>>recommendations. I do have another question. Did you cut the coax to a 
>>multiple of the wavelength?<<

I did cut mine to a multiple of 20.3, and I also used the toroidal baluns that 
Jim Weir recommends.  I also have a friend that's an electrical engineer and 
HAM radio buff drop by and check the SWR, and he said it was perfect..."don't 
change a thing".  

The range of my radio is nothing short of awesome.  I routinely hear 
communications from 200 miles out, and have talked several times with Joe 
Horton at ranges in the 175 mile range.  That aint bad for a homemade antenna 
made of copper foil...  

Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
website at http://www.N56ML.com 

KR> RE: tri-gear conversion

[Joe Beyer]

Message: 1
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 00:00:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: velocityo...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: KR> Continuing thoughts on tri-gear conversion
To: KRnet 
Message-ID:
<1320217247.32437.yahoomail...@web126104.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

>Hello Dave,
 
>First off my salute to you and sincere thanks for your service to this
>country! You have my respect and help at any time.
 
>Glad to see you planning to get this thing going. A couple of things to go
>over. The original spring-bar isn't what is used for the tri gear
>conversion

I used the spring bar sawed in half and tapered for my tri gear conversion.
I made a trailing link gear leg which has taken some pretty bouncy landings.
The biggest challenge was getting the nose wheel to not shimmy or bend at
the pivot point. 
Joe
Valley View (Estacada)

KR> Re: Tri-gear Conversion

[Lee Parker]

I changed the small 4" tail wheel on my KR to a larger 6" tail wheel (solid 
rubber). . That makes the tail wheel farther back a few inches.  It now sits 
about 3 1/2" higher which makes it easier to see over the nose.  I know the 
math doesn't add up but, the new tail wheel I installed I made from a hospital 
stretcher and it sits higher.  The Tractor Supply cap bearing will fit right 
into the holes and a 1/4" will fit the bearings.  It also makes it easier to 
land and roll out is a lot easier to control.. I am not as likely to ground 
loop it now.  I takes a little more room to turn it around but, at least I can 
land it now without ground looping it. I am a 2000 hr. pilot but learning to 
fly a KR is a lot different but I have found that the more you play with it the 
more you learn..  Tail wheels are a whole different ball game.  I now have 10 
hours on it and still working out the bugs.




From: smwood <smw...@md.metrocast.net>
To: kr...@mylist.net
Sent: Wednesday, November 2, 2011 10:13 AM
Subject: KR> Re: Tri-gear Conversion

Dave,
I converted N6242 from a conventional retract gear to fixed tri-gear using 
Diehl fixed mains and nose gear.  The large holes in the wing in front of 
the spar were converted to inspection panels; very useful.  The large holes 
aft of the spar were mostly closed in with foam and glass lay-up.  You are 
correct: After fill, sanding and paint, the cover up is invisible.
If you use the RR spring gear, the RR gear legs may be to short to match the 
nose gear height and steering geometry.  The RR spring bar would need to be 
absolutely latched in the down and locked position; you may not have room 
under the seat for that setup.  The RR gear legs are HUGE flat plates 
hanging out in the air stream; sort of a speed brake permanently deployed. 
You will have much difficulty fairing around those wiggly gear legs.  On 
most retract KR-2 there is an aileron control cable running through the area 
aft of the main spar.  You will need to re-route the cable or use more 
modern control linkages.  If you have a spring bar aft of the spar, where 
are you going to mount the stick?

Highly recommend you use the Diehl or similar fixed main gear.  Fairings are 
also available.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

--
The aircraft was issued it's N-Number (N86KR) in 1986, and is in need of
3 things, it seems - wing pins, some avionics replacement, and
conversion to tri-gear (personal preference).

The pins can be bought from NVAero from what I understand, I've got the
avionics I plan to install back home - those are the 'easy' jobs..

The tri-gear conversion seems the most difficult, and has been the
subject of much thought & online research, resulting in the following
plan (which I'm seeking comments/advice on)

1) Components would be the original KR2 spring-bar mains, and the Diehl
nose gear kit as sold by NVAero.

2) The 'objective' is to convert the plane from taildragger to tri-gear
'in-place', prior to ferrying it from where it is now to my home state.

3) From what I've read here and online, the largest block of time (and
largest requirement for jigs/tools/space/etc) in doing this work is the
post-conversion re-assembly - which generally is done by flipping the
plane and re-glassing the area cut open to gain access to the spar/gear.

What I have come up with, is a *possible* process to accomplish this
conversion without flipping the plane, by raising it up on jacks,
cutting away a rectangular patch of skin (and saving it in-tact for
later) to create access to the mains. At this point, the gear could be
'flipped' from the front of the spar to the back, and then the
rectangular patch would be re-attached with doublers around the edges
(inside the stub wings, not out in the airstream) and Hysol 9309.3
(microbead structural adhesive) for an adhesive and gap filler. Properly
done (eg, keeping the patch sucked up tight to the plane while the Hysol
cures) it should be just about as strong as the original structure, and
once sanded & painted, invisible...

Now, I'm not familliar with the specifics of the KR2 design yet (this is
a mix of army helo repair techniques, online research, and so on),
beyond what I can read online. Apart from a small bit of added weight
(from 4 doubler strips and the 9309), do you guys see any issues with
this plan? Is it going to create issues with the structure of the
stub-wings? Am I going to have trouble cutting out the 'access patch'
and separating the glass skin from the rest of the structure (Say, due
to the skin being adhered to foam & wood structure, making intact
removal of a cut-out section impossible)

I'm submitting this for comment, because you guys know alot more about
these planes than I do at this point... For all I know, there is a very
good reason why everyone flips t

KR> Re: Tri-gear Conversion

[smwood]

Dave,
I converted N6242 from a conventional retract gear to fixed tri-gear using 
Diehl fixed mains and nose gear.  The large holes in the wing in front of 
the spar were converted to inspection panels; very useful.  The large holes 
aft of the spar were mostly closed in with foam and glass lay-up.  You are 
correct: After fill, sanding and paint, the cover up is invisible.
If you use the RR spring gear, the RR gear legs may be to short to match the 
nose gear height and steering geometry.  The RR spring bar would need to be 
absolutely latched in the down and locked position; you may not have room 
under the seat for that setup.  The RR gear legs are HUGE flat plates 
hanging out in the air stream; sort of a speed brake permanently deployed. 
You will have much difficulty fairing around those wiggly gear legs.  On 
most retract KR-2 there is an aileron control cable running through the area 
aft of the main spar.  You will need to re-route the cable or use more 
modern control linkages.  If you have a spring bar aft of the spar, where 
are you going to mount the stick?

Highly recommend you use the Diehl or similar fixed main gear.  Fairings are 
also available.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

--
The aircraft was issued it's N-Number (N86KR) in 1986, and is in need of
3 things, it seems - wing pins, some avionics replacement, and
conversion to tri-gear (personal preference).

The pins can be bought from NVAero from what I understand, I've got the
avionics I plan to install back home - those are the 'easy' jobs..

The tri-gear conversion seems the most difficult, and has been the
subject of much thought & online research, resulting in the following
plan (which I'm seeking comments/advice on)

1) Components would be the original KR2 spring-bar mains, and the Diehl
nose gear kit as sold by NVAero.

2) The 'objective' is to convert the plane from taildragger to tri-gear
'in-place', prior to ferrying it from where it is now to my home state.

3) From what I've read here and online, the largest block of time (and
largest requirement for jigs/tools/space/etc) in doing this work is the
post-conversion re-assembly - which generally is done by flipping the
plane and re-glassing the area cut open to gain access to the spar/gear.

What I have come up with, is a *possible* process to accomplish this
conversion without flipping the plane, by raising it up on jacks,
cutting away a rectangular patch of skin (and saving it in-tact for
later) to create access to the mains. At this point, the gear could be
'flipped' from the front of the spar to the back, and then the
rectangular patch would be re-attached with doublers around the edges
(inside the stub wings, not out in the airstream) and Hysol 9309.3
(microbead structural adhesive) for an adhesive and gap filler. Properly
done (eg, keeping the patch sucked up tight to the plane while the Hysol
cures) it should be just about as strong as the original structure, and
once sanded & painted, invisible...

Now, I'm not familliar with the specifics of the KR2 design yet (this is
a mix of army helo repair techniques, online research, and so on),
beyond what I can read online. Apart from a small bit of added weight
(from 4 doubler strips and the 9309), do you guys see any issues with
this plan? Is it going to create issues with the structure of the
stub-wings? Am I going to have trouble cutting out the 'access patch'
and separating the glass skin from the rest of the structure (Say, due
to the skin being adhered to foam & wood structure, making intact
removal of a cut-out section impossible)

I'm submitting this for comment, because you guys know alot more about
these planes than I do at this point... For all I know, there is a very
good reason why everyone flips the plane & does it the 'conventional'
way - or maybe it's just that's the way that always comes to mind... I
just started from 'assume you cannot flip the bird, what would you do to
fix a hole in the bottom (that conveniently happens to expose the spar &
landing gear)...

KR> re-registration - another registration question

[Larry Flesner]

At 10:01 AM 10/31/2011, you wrote:
>My previous post on this subject apparently failed to go through the 
>mail servers...
++

Jeff,

I'm convinced the problem is in the krnet server.  Your first post 
came through in its entirety.  I too send e-mails that I never get 
returned to me but can usually find them in the  archives.  This has 
been a problem for six months now or longer.

Thanks for your knowledgeable replies.

Larry Flesner

Fw: Re: KR> re-registration - another registration question

[Jeff Scott]

This can turn into a real can of worms, but here's the information I got from a 
lengthy conversation with the head of the Albuquerque FSDO. I ended up in this 
can of worms over a plane that I built and sold 11 years ago that was in the 
process of being re-registered, then was confiscated from the new owner as 
settlement for a law suit. It has been sitting in somebody's back yard for the 
last 10 years. A friend has been trying to buy the plane, but the registration 
is now expired. Since I was the last legally registered owner, we needed to 
find out what had to be done to make the plane legal and airworthy once again.

 If one fails to renew their registration, the registration number is removed 
from the FAA registry and unavailable for re-assignment for 5 years. Losing the 
registration number also voids the airworthiness certificate, regardless of 
whether the plane is certificated or Experimental. If one was to buy a plane 
with an expired registration, you would have to apply to the FAA for the 
issuance of a new registration number. Then the aircraft would have to go 
through a new airworthiness inspection by the FAA or a DAR, same as when the 
original airworthiness was issued. For a certificated aircraft, the same rules 
apply. The aircraft would have to go through an airworthiness (type certificate 
compliance) inspection by the FAA or a DAR to have a new airworthiness issued 
to go with the new registration number. All the previously filed STCs and 337s 
would still apply to the aircraft since they are tied to the serial number.

 So, as an example, let's say I failed to renew the registration for my KR. My 
N number N1213W would go away and be ineligible for reassignment for the next 5 
years. Then Joe decides to buy my KR. Joe would have to apply for the issuance 
of a new registration number and would have to have a new airworthiness 
inspection done by the local DAR once he gets the plane home. This would also 
include the issuance of new operating limitations paperwork. However, Joe would 
not have to do the phase 1 test flights as that time has already been logged 
and signed off in the log books for the plane as those logs go with the plane 
and serial number.

 So, there is a penalty for not renewing your registration. That is that the 
airworthiness becomes invalid and the buyer of the plane would have to pay for 
a new airworthiness, which runs about $650 in my neck of the woods. That would 
essentially devalue your plane by that amount.

 Hopefully that clears up the reregistration questions without opening a can of 
worms.

 Jeff Scott
 Los Alamos, NM


- Original Message -
From: Dave_A
Sent: 10/31/11 01:44 AM
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: Fw: Re: KR> re-registration - another registration question

 So what happens if you don't renew in time - say, because the registration 
expired when someone else owned the plane?

KR> re-registration - another registration question

[Larry Flesner]

At 02:44 AM 10/31/2011, you wrote:
>So what happens if you don't renew in time - say, because the
>registration expired when someone else owned the plane?
++

Everything you need to know is at:

http://www.faa.gov/licenses_certificates/aircraft_certification/aircraft_registry/reregistration/


Larry Flesner

KR> re-registration

[Dan Heath]

One thing to be aware of is that if you want to renew on-line, you must do
it by a different deadline give in the letter.  You don't have until your
expiration date to do it ON-LINE.  I learned this the hard way.

See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics 
See you at the 2011 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN
There is a time for building and it never seems to end.
Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC


-Original Message-
Joe, et al, Go to  and plug in your registration
number. It will tell you when it expires and the window to renew. As Lee
said, the FAA will send you a letter, if nothing has changed on your
registration, you can renew it on line using a special number in the FAA
letter

Fw: Re: KR> re-registration

[joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com]

Thanks, JeffI think I see why I am confused -- The date that they have as my 
registration date is something like Jan. 15th which is when I originally 
applied for the N number and I thought that the date used was the date the 
aircraft was signed off which is June 30th. So i guess i don't need to think 
about it for another year and a half.Joe Horton

-- Forwarded Message --
From: "Jeff Scott" 

Joe, et al, Go to  and plug in your registration 
number. It will tell you when it expires and the window to renew. As Lee said, 
the FAA will send you a letter, if nothing has changed on your registration, 
you can renew it on line using a special number in the FAA letter, then charge 
$5 to your credit card. My new registration arrived in 4 days. -Jeff Scott 
---

60-Year-Old Mom Looks 27
Mom Reveals Free Wrinkle Trick That Has Angered Doctors!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4eadfcdf8e84b3f5475st01duc

KR> re-registration

[Larry Flesner]

At 07:40 PM 10/30/2011, you wrote:
>Joe, et al, Go to  and plug in your 
>registration number. It will tell you when it expires and the window 
>to renew. As Lee said, the FAA will send you a letter, if nothing 
>has changed on your registration, you can renew it on line using a 
>special number in the FAA letter, then charge $5 to your credit 
>card. My new registration arrived in 4 days. -Jeff Scott ---


Thanks, guys.  I had forgotten my KR was due and my "window" ends 
tomorrow.  I looked franticly all over the house for the letter and 
finally found it.  You need the letter with the code to register on line.

Get your current info from the site above as given from Jeff Scott 
and go to  http://registry.faa.gov/renewregistration  to do the on 
line registration.

Thanks again, guys.  You pulled me out of the FAA fire 

Larry Flesner

KR> re-registration

[Jeff Scott]

Joe, et al, Go to  and plug in your registration 
number. It will tell you when it expires and the window to renew. As Lee said, 
the FAA will send you a letter, if nothing has changed on your registration, 
you can renew it on line using a special number in the FAA letter, then charge 
$5 to your credit card. My new registration arrived in 4 days. -Jeff Scott 
--- Hey Guys,I've got myself confused about the reregisrtaion of 
N357CJ. For some reason I thought I had to have it done this fall. But I went 
to the FAA registry and it says that it does not expire until 9/30/2013. The 
chart that they give on their site says all years due now. Anyone know for sure 
how this works. If it is now I have to send by tomorrow.Joe Horton

KR> re-registration

[Lee Parker]

I have three planes.  You will get a letter in the mail explaining when you 
need to re-register each plane.  There is a three month window to do it.  You 
can do it online and it cost $5.00.




From: "joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com" <joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com>
To: corvaircr...@mylist.net; kr...@mylist.net
Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2011 1:15 PM
Subject: KR> re-registration

Hey Guys,I've got myself confused about the reregisrtaion of N357CJ. For some 
reason I thought I had to have it done this fall. But I went to the FAA 
registry and it says that it does not expire until 9/30/2013. The chart that 
they give on their site says all years due now. Anyone know for sure how this 
works. If it is now I have to send by tomorrow.Joe Horton

60-Year-Old Mom Looks 27
Mom Reveals Free Wrinkle Trick That Has Angered Doctors!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4ead866151ac412a46f0st06duc
___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> re-registration

[joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com]

Hey Guys,I've got myself confused about the reregisrtaion of N357CJ. For some 
reason I thought I had to have it done this fall. But I went to the FAA 
registry and it says that it does not expire until 9/30/2013. The chart that 
they give on their site says all years due now. Anyone know for sure how this 
works. If it is now I have to send by tomorrow.Joe Horton

60-Year-Old Mom Looks 27
Mom Reveals Free Wrinkle Trick That Has Angered Doctors!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4ead866151ac412a46f0st06duc

KR> Re: KR2 model for MS Flight Sim

[robert7...@aol.com]

Dave,

Not for MSFS, but for X-Plane. 

When I was in Iraq a couple years ago, I spent some time on both MS FSX and 
 X-Plane. I built the X-Plane model for my KR2S after I got back. I think I 
did  find a couple of KR MSFS models on a site 
_http://www.simviation.com/downloads.html_ 
(http://www.simviation.com/downloads.html) ,  specifically 
try  _http://simviation.com/1/search?submit=1=kr2=_ 
(http://simviation.com/1/search?submit=1=kr2=) 

but they were junk and not really flyable.

Link to my X-plane model is on my web site at.

_http://www.robert7721.com/_ (http://www.robert7721.com/) 

Yes, .50 cals are fun to play with as well. 

Thanks,

Rob Schmitt
N1852Z





In a message dated 10/29/2011 11:00:20 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
krnet-requ...@mylist.net writes:

Message:  6
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Sat, 29 Oct 2011 18:33:35 +0430
From: Dave_A  
Subject: KR> KR2 model for MS Flight  Sim
To: KRnet 
Message-ID:  <4eac07b7.3010...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;  charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Does anyone have one?

Yeah,  MSFS isn't exactly comparable to real flying, but it's the only 
thing I  have until I get back to the States... Out here in A-stan, the 
only  controls I can get behind are those for my truck's gun  turret...

KR> Re: VW 2180 headbolt torque and annual suggestions

[smwood]

Anyway, it would seem to me that after all these years that there would have 
been something that has been done to keep the heads on a VW motor torqued 
down. Better studs or fasteners ? Loc tite ??? Is there are new torque spec 
for a 2180 vs what the book calls for when it was a 1600 ?

I know I am rambling a bit but as I go through my annual checklist I am just 
thinking, and wondering if anyone out there has come up with some 
improvements thoughts and ideas to share.

Jeff York
KR-2


--

Bolts stretch under tension.  When heated under tension, they not only get 
longer but will relax to a longer length when they are cool.  The longer the 
bolt, the more stretch you get.  That is the way most metals, including 
steel, work.  If you go beyond elastic limits, it's time for new bolts.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> Re: Taxi Test Prop strike

[Glenn Martin]

On 10/24/2011 10:51 AM, Jeff York wrote:
> That is my opinion .
>
> Jeff York
Mine also

-- 
Glenn Martin, 2Lt
Director Of Communications, MS-066

KR> Re: Taxi Test Prop strike

[Jeff York]

Any prop strike would give me cause to be concerned. No mater if it was a 
Corvair or a Continental or Lycoming or VW. My life and the lives of those in a 
plane with me or on the ground below me would give me cause enough to open it 
up and be sure there is no damage to that crank or other assemblies. 


That is my opinion .

Jeff York
KR-2
Georgetown Scott County FAA airport of the year
2010 KR Peoples Choice and Best Interior
2011 Air Fest Best Experimental and Best Instrument Panel






___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html



___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Re: Taxi Test

[Volucer]

I usually always reading but this time I feel to write also.

My general opinion and not only regarding a Corvair is: Open your engine and 
inspect it. Better safe then sorry!

I also remember that few members of the group already broke a crankshaft 
spontaneously and more then a time.
Shahar

___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> RE: KRnet Tri Gear Conversion

[Joe Beyer]

*
Message: 2
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2011 05:04:38 +
From: Dave Acklam 
Subject: KR> Purchased a KR-2, want to change the landing gear
config

I want to convert it to tri-gear, as all my time has been in 172s & I'm not
quite comfortable picking up a new airframe and learning to fly tailwheel at
the same time.

My KR-2 was a tail dragger years ago and after a hard landing on my fifth
flight I decided to do the conversion. It was a great improvement in the
ground handling. I think the 2-s version is better suited for tail wheels
due to it's longer length. I designed my own hardware and the biggest
challenge was getting the nose wheel right. 

Joe
Estacada Ore.

KR> RE: CorvAircraft> nV Aero at Corvair College #21

[Dan Heath]

Steve and KR fliers,

I hope to claim to be a KR flier soon and have always wanted to make the
trip to the West Coast.  I think it would be awesome and there are already a
couple KR fliers who have proven to be capable of making such a trip.
Please keep us informed as you finalize the date and other logistics.   As
soon as I join the KR flier category, I will start making my preparations to
make that trip.

See you in Barnwell, with or without the Black Bird.

See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics 
See you at the 2011 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN
There is a time for building and it never seems to end.
Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC


-Original Message-
From: corvaircraft-boun...@mylist.net
[mailto:corvaircraft-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Steve Glover

Hello Netters,

For those interested in the KR series of aircraft for their Corvair power
plant, Brennen and I will be attending CC #21 to answer questions, get
greasy, and generally just have a great time with the rest of you.  

We will be having a West Coast KR Gathering in May for anyone wanting to get
a closer look at the new 2-SX with the Corvair installation


Steve Glover

KR> Re: wingspan / spar analysis (Matt Elder)

[Donald Lord]

Excellent post with a lot of great info to consider. It seems modifications 
often add weight and risk. Thank you, Matt.

In His service,

Donald K. Lord
Sent from my iPad

KR> Re: Wingspan

[M]

The wingspan on the KR motor glider built by Ken Rand was 27 feet.

Mike Turner
Edgewood N.M.

- Original Message - 


The wingspan on my KR-2 is 23 feet 3 inches using the Diehl plans and wing
skin kit.  My weight and balance has a max useful load of 528 pounds and
still remains within stable loading.  I have seen many KR-2 aircraft flying
for years with the Diehl wing skin mod that uses the RAF48 airfoil.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

-Search the KRnet Archives at 
http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html 

KR> Re: Wingspan

[smwood]

The wingspan on my KR-2 is 23 feet 3 inches using the Diehl plans and wing 
skin kit.  My weight and balance has a max useful load of 528 pounds and 
still remains within stable loading.  I have seen many KR-2 aircraft flying 
for years with the Diehl wing skin mod that uses the RAF48 airfoil.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

-

Ask Navaro sp.RR said do not extend the wings on the KR-2, Virg

On 10/10/2011 6:51 PM, Craig Williams wrote:
> I have been reading in the archives about the RAF48 wing span and loading. 
> I see that Garry Morgan's KR2SS had
> a span of 27 feet.  Was wondering if anyone stateside had gone this big. 
> The reason I ask is I think to get the
> useful load for my 250lb frame I need to up the wing span to 27 feet.  I 
> would do this by adding 36 inches
> to the stub wings.
>
> Craig
> www,kr2seafury.com
>

KR> RE: KR Crash

[robert7...@aol.com]

I found an article that gives some information from his family. It may have 
 been his 1st flight.

_http://www.wcyb.com/news/29421820/detail.html_ 
(http://www.wcyb.com/news/29421820/detail.html) 

Rob Schmitt
N1852Z


From: "Tim" 
Subject: Re: KR> KR crash
To:  "KRnet" 
Message-ID:  <867137A057314E69BBFBF4A9AEAF92C2@timpc>
Content-Type: text/plain;  format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original

Newspaper  38yr old  >>>
http://www.swvatoday.com/news/article/plane_crashes_in_groseclose/11167/


-  Original Message - 
From: "Bob Glidden" 
To:  "KRnet" 
Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2011 7:03  PM
Subject: KR> KR crash

KR> Re: EIS Thermocouple Wiring

[smwood]

Joe,
Yes, GRT does have ready-made connector terminations for their EGT and CHT 
sensors.  They use a 20-ton press with a $6,000 tool head to crimp the pins 
onto the thermocouple wires.  When I bought my EIS 4000, they  did not have 
that option available.  I don't have access to that tooling.  I just have 
the hand-operated ratchet crimper.  The wires, I have now, do not have any 
terminations on them.  So, I am doing a work around to hookup what I have 
now.  I am going with the European barrier strips from Radio Shack to 
terminate the thermocouple wires at the instrument panel, then use copper 
wire to the D-sub connector.  I will twist the wire pairs to help cut down 
on radio frequency interference to the high impedance EIS 4000 front end. 
Galvanometers are somewhat immune from rfi.

Solder on copper wires and brass works fine.  Solder on iron and constantan 
connections does create a thermocouple that will mess with the calibration 
for the factory thermocouple.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net
--
Guys,I am totally confused. I thought that the thermal couples that i 
received from GRT (i.e. exhaust and head temp) were premade with ends 
installed - They are not to be cut or modified in any way. The kit includes 
extra terminals to cut and terminate the wires from the instrument to the 
correct install length and then connect to the thermal couple wire. Why are 
we talking about terminating the thermal couple wires, What did i miss?Joe 
Horton,Coopersburg, PA.

-- Forwarded Message -
On 10/5/2011 8:46 AM, smwood wrote:
> Solder does not stick to well on them and even
> if you did solder the pins, you create a dissimilar metal joint that 
> messes
> with the thermocouple calibration
Soldering does not create a dissimilar metal connection as such, but
creates an alloy at the junction of the two metals, which provides a
reliable conductive path. I have a hard time believing that the
calibration error introduced by this junction would be anywhere near
the  error introduced by the galvanometer (meter movement) it is
normally displayed on (considering that there are solder joints along
the meter path INSIDE the unit). What is the accuracy of the
thermocouple itself, 2-5%? Perhaps less accurate?

-- 
Glenn Martin
Biloxi, MS

KR> Re: paint scheme

[smwood]

I painted my KR-2 plain white and put on vinyl self-stick from a sign shop 
with a red, white and blue flag bunting theme.  The sign shop had every 
color, print, picture and scheme you could ever imagine.  My hangar partner 
is planning to re-paint his Pulsar XP and do an entire airplane wrap with 
the vinyl stick-on material.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

---

>I need to pick out a paint scheme, where can I find lots and lots!!!
>pictures of completed kr2 planes? Thanks! :)
++

Go to  www.krgathering.org and scroll down to pictures of the
Gathering or go to www.krnet.org and scroll down to "completed KR's"
and you'll find hundreds of photos.

Larry Flesner

KR> Re: EIS Thermocouple Wiring

[Craig Williams]

Some of us are doing steam gauges and not GRT or engine management systems.  My 
EGT is 6 probes that go to a six pos switch and to a single Westach EGT gauge.  
Guess I can do it most any way I want as long as it works in the end.

Craig
www.kr2seafury.com



- Original Message -
From: "joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com" <joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com>
To: kr...@mylist.net
Cc: 
Sent: Wednesday, October 5, 2011 11:32 AM
Subject: Fw: Re: KR> Re: EIS Thermocouple Wiring


Guys,I am totally confused. I thought that the thermal couples that i received 
from GRT (i.e. exhaust and head temp) were premade with ends installed - They 
are not to be cut or modified in any way. The kit includes extra terminals to 
cut and terminate the wires from the instrument to the correct install length 
and then connect to the thermal couple wire. Why are we talking about 
terminating the thermal couple wires, What did i miss?Joe Horton,Coopersburg, 
PA.
-- Forwarded Message -
From: Glenn Martin <rep...@martekmississippi.com>
To: KRnet <kr...@mylist.net>
Subject: Re: KR> Re: EIS Thermocouple Wiring
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Wed, 05 Oct 2011 10:36:47 -0500

On 10/5/2011 8:46 AM, smwood wrote:
> Solder does not stick to well on them and even
> if you did solder the pins, you create a dissimilar metal joint that messes
> with the thermocouple calibration
Soldering does not create a dissimilar metal connection as such, but 
creates an alloy at the junction of the two metals, which provides a 
reliable conductive path. I have a hard time believing that the 
calibration error introduced by this junction would be anywhere near 
the  error introduced by the galvanometer (meter movement) it is 
normally displayed on (considering that there are solder joints along 
the meter path INSIDE the unit). What is the accuracy of the 
thermocouple itself, 2-5%? Perhaps less accurate?

-- 
Glenn Martin
Biloxi, MS




___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

Penny Stock Jumping 3000%
Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4e8c86f349142a7f6bcst04duc
___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

Fw: Re: KR> Re: EIS Thermocouple Wiring

[joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com]

Guys,I am totally confused. I thought that the thermal couples that i received 
from GRT (i.e. exhaust and head temp) were premade with ends installed - They 
are not to be cut or modified in any way. The kit includes extra terminals to 
cut and terminate the wires from the instrument to the correct install length 
and then connect to the thermal couple wire. Why are we talking about 
terminating the thermal couple wires, What did i miss?Joe Horton,Coopersburg, 
PA.
-- Forwarded Message -
From: Glenn Martin <rep...@martekmississippi.com>
To: KRnet <kr...@mylist.net>
Subject: Re: KR> Re: EIS Thermocouple Wiring
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Wed, 05 Oct 2011 10:36:47 -0500

On 10/5/2011 8:46 AM, smwood wrote:
> Solder does not stick to well on them and even
> if you did solder the pins, you create a dissimilar metal joint that messes
> with the thermocouple calibration
Soldering does not create a dissimilar metal connection as such, but 
creates an alloy at the junction of the two metals, which provides a 
reliable conductive path. I have a hard time believing that the 
calibration error introduced by this junction would be anywhere near 
the  error introduced by the galvanometer (meter movement) it is 
normally displayed on (considering that there are solder joints along 
the meter path INSIDE the unit). What is the accuracy of the 
thermocouple itself, 2-5%? Perhaps less accurate?

-- 
Glenn Martin
Biloxi, MS




___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

Penny Stock Jumping 3000%
Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4e8c86f349142a7f6bcst04duc

KR> Re: EIS Thermocouple Wiring

[Glenn Martin]

On 10/5/2011 8:46 AM, smwood wrote:
> Solder does not stick to well on them and even
> if you did solder the pins, you create a dissimilar metal joint that messes
> with the thermocouple calibration
Soldering does not create a dissimilar metal connection as such, but 
creates an alloy at the junction of the two metals, which provides a 
reliable conductive path. I have a hard time believing that the 
calibration error introduced by this junction would be anywhere near 
the  error introduced by the galvanometer (meter movement) it is 
normally displayed on (considering that there are solder joints along 
the meter path INSIDE the unit). What is the accuracy of the 
thermocouple itself, 2-5%? Perhaps less accurate?

-- 
Glenn Martin
Biloxi, MS

KR> Re: EIS Thermocouple Wiring

[Craig Williams]

Sid

I used those EU style terminals on a project a few years back and loved them.  
Bought them for my KR from Mouser and plan on doing all my wiring that way.

Craig
www.kr2seafury.com



- Original Message -
From: smwood <smw...@md.metrocast.net>
To: kr...@mylist.net
Cc: 
Sent: Wednesday, October 5, 2011 8:46 AM
Subject: KR> Re: EIS Thermocouple Wiring

The GRT thermocouple wires are iron and constantan.  There are no 
terminations on the wires.  Solder does not stick to well on them and even 
if you did solder the pins, you create a dissimilar metal joint that messes 
with the thermocouple calibration.  With a little luck you can also create a 
corrosion problem at the pins, not pretty.
I went to the Omega Instruments site.  This is a large outfit that 
specializes in industrial instrumentation, especially thermocouples.  All of 
their connections for thermocouple wires use tin coated screw-type clamps. 
One page even has step by step how to.  If it works for Omega, I could copy 
their system.  I found a European style barrier strip at Radio Shack that 
has tin coated screw contacts for bare wire connection.  These barrier 
strips have electrical isolation and are made for high vibration 

KR> Re: EIS Thermocouple Wiring

[smwood]

The GRT thermocouple wires are iron and constantan.  There are no 
terminations on the wires.  Solder does not stick to well on them and even 
if you did solder the pins, you create a dissimilar metal joint that messes 
with the thermocouple calibration.  With a little luck you can also create a 
corrosion problem at the pins, not pretty.
I went to the Omega Instruments site.  This is a large outfit that 
specializes in industrial instrumentation, especially thermocouples.  All of 
their connections for thermocouple wires use tin coated screw-type clamps. 
One page even has step by step how to.  If it works for Omega, I could copy 
their system.  I found a European style barrier strip at Radio Shack that 
has tin coated screw contacts for bare wire connection.  These barrier 
strips have electrical isolation and are made for high vibration 
environments found on aircraft.  The plan is to terminate the thermocouple 
wires at the barrier strip and then run copper wires to the DP-25 connector. 
I will let you know in a few days how the Radio Shack barrier strips work 
out.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smwood@md,metrocast.net
---
If the thermocouples are like the ones from Westach, with the little male
pin on the end.  Get some of the female pins and make you a connector with
whatever size wire you like and run that wire into the 25-pin connector.
Westach can supply the female pin ends.  This is very easy to do.

Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC

--

I've done alot of wiring of small pins for the lighting system on a friends 
plane and found that the best thing is always to solder the pin connections 
no matter how good you think the crimp is. With a good iron it takes only 
moments to do and will keep the wires in place. If you are using a DB25 
connector (looks like a computer cable) those come as a unit which you 
solder together and then screw on the strain relief w/o crimping.

GT

KR> Re: KRnet Digest, Vol 353, Issue 271

[Tom Lynch]

Sent from my MetroPCS Wireless Phone

krnet-requ...@mylist.net wrote:

>Send KRnet mailing list submissions to
>   kr...@mylist.net
>
>To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>   http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet
>or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>   krnet-requ...@mylist.net
>
>You can reach the person managing the list at
>   krnet-ow...@mylist.net
>
>When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..."
>
>
>Today's Topics:
>
>   1. Re:  Landing gear and brakes. (Lee Van Dyke)
>   2.  Progress (Lee Van Dyke)
>   3. Re:  Landing gear and brakes. (Brian Coss)
>   4. Re:  KRnet List Rules - please follow them! (Mark Langford)
>   5. Re:  Urgent- Need another Engine mount (Derek Lewis)
>   6. RE:  Still for sale. (Tim & Gail McKenna)
>   7.  KRnet posts, and the rules (Mark Langford)
>   8.  retracts (Clay)
>
>
>--
>
>Message: 1
>Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2011 21:22:51 -0700
>From: Lee Van Dyke 
>Subject: Re: KR> Landing gear and brakes.
>To: KRnet 
>Message-ID: <2ed8e85b-acc4-4732-ab22-461ec1601...@vandyke2.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain;  charset=us-ascii
>
>Stick with the retract gear.  Get it flying again
>
>Lee Van Dyke
>
>On Oct 1, 2011, at 12:18 PM, Brian Coss  wrote:
>
>> Im in the retract dilemma, gonna have to stick with it 4 now, very
>> pricey!!!, I'd like to make a 6 care system out of the old spring bar cut in
>> half, would like to find drawings on mounting bracket an attachment points
>> to make a fixed gear out of my spring bar.
>> On Oct 1, 2011 2:12 PM, "Virgil N. Salisbury"  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Is there a POSITIVE lock down system for the retracts ? Virg
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On 9/28/2011 10:21 PM, Brian Coss wrote:
 Thanks for the info on the retracts,Dave, much appreciated,leaning to the
 fixed gear is gettin more interesting, a used, proven, fixed type for krs
 would be nice,if I can find one?
 On Sep 28, 2011 9:02 PM, "Prototype Mech" wrote:
> Hello Brian,
> I have a Plans Built KR2 with retracts too. The retracts arn't bad. The
 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
>>> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>> ___
>> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
>> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>> 
>
>
>
>--
>
>Message: 2
>Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2011 22:01:23 -0700
>From: Lee Van Dyke 
>Subject: KR> Progress
>To: KRnet 
>Message-ID: <3df07705-eb07-46ba-a13d-087c491cf...@vandyke2.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain;  charset=us-ascii
>
>More work on my friends wings today.  More glass patches and body fill. I will 
>start early in the AM tomorrow.  Found out my day will be cut short to move 
>daughter back home.  But I will get up early and do the sanding that needs to 
>be done.  Paint will be on this week.  Something everyday   Period
>
>Lee Van Dyke
>
>
>--
>
>Message: 3
>Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2011 07:39:39 -0500
>From: Brian Coss 
>Subject: Re: KR> Landing gear and brakes.
>To: KRnet 
>Message-ID:
>   
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
>Thx lee, gd advice! Guna keep it simple for now! :) I will just fabricated a
>nice latch mechanism, I have a nice pic of 1 in a newsletter. been trying to
>send a picture to virgil, :)
>On Oct 1, 2011 11:23 PM, "Lee Van Dyke"  wrote:
>> Stick with the retract gear. Get it flying again
>>
>> Lee Van Dyke
>>
>> On Oct 1, 2011, at 12:18 PM, Brian Coss  wrote:
>>
>>> Im in the retract dilemma, gonna have to stick with it 4 now, very
>>> pricey!!!, I'd like to make a 6 care system out of the old spring bar cut
>in
>>> half, would like to find drawings on mounting bracket an attachment
>points
>>> to make a fixed gear out of my spring bar.
>>> On Oct 1, 2011 2:12 PM, "Virgil N. Salisbury" 
>wrote:

 Is there a POSITIVE lock down system for the retracts ? Virg


 On 9/28/2011 10:21 PM, Brian Coss wrote:
> Thanks for the info on the retracts,Dave, much appreciated,leaning to
>the
> fixed gear is gettin more interesting, a used, proven, fixed type for
>krs
> would be nice,if I can find one?
> On Sep 28, 2011 9:02 PM, "Prototype Mech"
>wrote:
>> Hello Brian,
>> I have a 

KR> RE: CorvAircraft> Corvair powered KR Progress

[Dan Heath]

Yes, I have a WW KR2S cowling and almost have it fitted for my KR. The top
is installed and am now installing the pins along the seam.  I will have a
little glass work to do, but that should not be too bad, but. I might
have to sing the sanding song again.

I don't know what the RPM is, because I did not want to run it very long and
cause it to over heat.  I will check that out as soon as I can get the
cowling on it, secure enough to do a full RPM run-up.

Mark Jones flew his for a while with the EFS-2 and said that he got around
28 or 29...  I think.

See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics 
See you at the 2011 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN
There is a time for building and it never seems to end.
Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC


-Original Message-
So it runs fine?  What kind of RPM will it turn with that EFS-2 
carb on it?  You're going to need a cowling if you're going to fly it to 
Barnwell.  

KR> Re: CorvAircraft> Corvair powered KR Progress

[Mark Langford]

Dan Heath wrote:

>>Today, I took off the EFS-3A and shipped it back to Ellison.  I put on one
of my old EFS-2 and the engine runs as you would expect it to run.>>

Excellent!  So it runs fine?  What kind of RPM will it turn with that EFS-2 
carb on it?  You're going to need a cowling if you're going to fly it to 
Barnwell.  I hope you have one on order!  I talked to Steve Glover last 
night and he said he had something like 15 different cowlings (not sure if 
he meant molds, or "in stock").  I'll bet there's plenty of room under an 
O-200 cowling.  You've probably researched all that stuff though...

Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
website at http://www.N56ML.com

KR> Re:6

[Virgil N. Salisbury]

On 9/30/2011 8:50 PM, Chelsea Berryman wrote:
>
>
>   GO AWAY, Virg
>
>
> 
> From: Neal<lt1corve...@earthlink.net>
> To: jeffjones...@yahoo.com; jnorri...@yahoo.com; lnico...@aol.com;
> joe2387...@gmail.com; hmst...@yahoo.com; jhorn...@suddenlink.net;
> jwise...@whiteallen.dealercrm.com; kenbjo...@cinci.rr.com; kr...@mylist.net
> Sent: Fri, September 30, 2011 3:28:23 PM
> Subject: KR>  Re:6
>
> Aloha State,
> http://teste.colegiovascodagama.net/index101ww--.php?jhotmailID=51py
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>

KR> Re:6

[Brian Coss]

Hi,every one,im lookin for more avice or design pics of a fixed gear system,
made out of spring bar from retract system,thx, :)
On Sep 30, 2011 9:32 PM, "Pete Klapp" <pke...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Mark
> Can we UNSCRIBE the individual that keeps posting links for Canadian med
sales?
> Pete Klapp, Canton,Ohio
>
>
>> Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 17:50:10 -0700
>> From: earlbe...@att.net
>> Subject: Re: KR> Re:6
>> To: lt1corve...@earthlink.net; kr...@mylist.net
>> CC:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> 
>> From: Neal <lt1corve...@earthlink.net>
>> To: jeffjones...@yahoo.com; jnorri...@yahoo.com; lnico...@aol.com;
>> joe2387...@gmail.com; hmst...@yahoo.com; jhorn...@suddenlink.net;
>> jwise...@whiteallen.dealercrm.com; kenbjo...@cinci.rr.com;
kr...@mylist.net
>> Sent: Fri, September 30, 2011 3:28:23 PM
>> Subject: KR> Re:6
>>
>> Aloha State,
>> http://teste.colegiovascodagama.net/index101ww--.php?jhotmailID=51py
>>
>> ___
>> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
>> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>> ___
>> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
>> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Re:6

[Pete Klapp]

Mark
Can we UNSCRIBE the individual that keeps posting links for Canadian med sales?
Pete Klapp, Canton,Ohio


> Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 17:50:10 -0700
> From: earlbe...@att.net
> Subject: Re: KR> Re:6
> To: lt1corve...@earthlink.net; kr...@mylist.net
> CC: 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: Neal <lt1corve...@earthlink.net>
> To: jeffjones...@yahoo.com; jnorri...@yahoo.com; lnico...@aol.com; 
> joe2387...@gmail.com; hmst...@yahoo.com; jhorn...@suddenlink.net; 
> jwise...@whiteallen.dealercrm.com; kenbjo...@cinci.rr.com; kr...@mylist.net
> Sent: Fri, September 30, 2011 3:28:23 PM
> Subject: KR> Re:6
> 
> Aloha State, 
> http://teste.colegiovascodagama.net/index101ww--.php?jhotmailID=51py
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Re:6

[Chelsea Berryman]

From: Neal <lt1corve...@earthlink.net>
To: jeffjones...@yahoo.com; jnorri...@yahoo.com; lnico...@aol.com; 
joe2387...@gmail.com; hmst...@yahoo.com; jhorn...@suddenlink.net; 
jwise...@whiteallen.dealercrm.com; kenbjo...@cinci.rr.com; kr...@mylist.net
Sent: Fri, September 30, 2011 3:28:23 PM
Subject: KR> Re:6

Aloha State, 
http://teste.colegiovascodagama.net/index101ww--.php?jhotmailID=51py

___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Re:6

[Virgil N. Salisbury]

GO  AWAY, Virg

On 9/30/2011 4:28 PM, Neal wrote:
> Aloha State, 
> http://teste.colegiovascodagama.net/index101ww--.php?jhotmailID=51py
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>

KR> Re:6

[Neal]

Aloha State, 
http://teste.colegiovascodagama.net/index101ww--.php?jhotmailID=51py