Re: [MBZ] W124 charging system fails, how far can you drive, lots....

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

In my 560(which I have not driven in a long time because its cursed), 
when the alternator was not charnged and you turned on the heated seats, 
the lights in the switches would flash I guess to let you know you have 
a problem.


Marshall Booth wrote:


John M McIntosh wrote:


PS well I might have stopped once I started to enter the city it was  
unclear how bright (not) the brake lights were. Still it appears you  
can run a w124 diesel a long way with faulty electrical system.



I've driven from Pittsburgh to Washington DC (and back ~250 mi each way) 
several times without a working alternator and my daughter made the trip 
from Harrisburg PA to Pittsburgh (200 miles) without an alternator. I've 
never counted on more than a few hours of electrical function (lights, 
heater fan, wipers, radio, etc.) and I don't turn the engine off (just 
lock the car with the engine running when making a "rest" stop). I 
always tried to leave EARLY in the morning or at least 5-6 hours BEFORE 
dusk and a RainX treatment of the windows makes it possible to drive in 
all but the  worst weather without wipers (can get tough in snow 
though). Once moving there's plenty of heat even without the blowers on.


Did I correctly interpret "heat seater lights" as an indication that you 
have seat heaters in the car? Seat heater problems CAN knock out a 
battery and exceed the capacity of the alternator I'm told, but I've 
never dealt with that problem as I don't have seat heaters in ANY of my 
cars. I'm PRETTY sure there were revisions to the seat heater circuits 
but I'm NOT sure when they occurred.


Marshall


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

Re: [MBZ] Absolutely pathetic fuel "economy"

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Is it possible something is wrong with your fuel guage and you really 
still have plenty of fuel left in it?


andrew strasfogel wrote:


My 300TD has been getting progressively, steadily worsening fuel economy
over the last few years. It runs fine, there are no fuel leaks to speak of,
and I haven't changed my driving habits. I had been driving it in "2" at
Marshall's recommendation, but thought this might be causing the decline in
fuel economy so switched back to "D" around town.
Makes zero difference.
 When I say the fuel economy s*cks, this means that whereas I used to drive
up to 380 miles before the reserve light came on, now it's exactly 100 miles
LOWER when I hit reserve (under 300 miles). This translates to 18 or 19 mpg.
I am beginning to feel ashamed that my DIESEL could fare so POORLY in fuel
consumption. Best I ever got was 27 on the highway but until a couple years
ago I faithfully averaged 22-24 during the non-winter seasons, mixed
driving.
 I assume my problem is that the engine is running "rich". How would this be
addressed?
 Thanks in advance,
 1983 300 TD
267 K miles
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

Re: [MBZ] Kaleb's new ride

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

The duramax is a pretty good engine but VERY complicated and expensive 
to work on.  I like the 6.5's as well.  Yes, some of them had weak IP's 
but usually once thats sorted out properly they are fine.


Kevin wrote:


On Thu, Nov 17, 2005 at 01:03:40PM -0500, Sunil Hari wrote:


seriously, are the 6.2 diesel engines any good? I remember at some point
that GM converted gas engines to diesel with poor success



That was the oldsmobile 5.7 liter diesel. The 6.2 was a detroit design,
and as long as it was operated within spec, it was fine. It was a teense
light duty for a one ton dually (it was originally designed for 1 GVW
and below). In a suburban or a half ton, it was rock solid. Some people
had problems with turbos, some didn't, that was probably more of an issue
of hauling heavy loads uphill in the wrong gear with the throttle held to
the wood than anything (just a guess).

Given all four of GM's light duty truck diesels (5.7, 6.2, 6.5, duramax), I'd
take the 6.2 long before the others.

K

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

Re: [MBZ] checkout my new ride

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Oh I dont know about that, my 6.5td 1 ton could probably tow a few at a 
time though.


Nick Gough wrote:


Kaleb,
  
  Looks like it could be decent find.
  
  However, that red velour interior is more akin to a house of ill repute  than it is to a truck. Of course, that was the style back then.

  :>)
  
  It could probably tow your entire collection of Benzes... all at once. :>)
  
  Enjoy.
  
  
  Nick Gough

  86 300SDL 171k
  93 300E 2.8 121k
  97 Jetta 70k
  
		

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

Re: [MBZ] Kaleb's new ride

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

The ford used the navistar/international engines, GM was detroit.

Chuck Landenberger wrote:


IIRC, it's not a GM diesel  Maybe International?

My '86 Ford F250 has a 6.9 International Diesel.

Chuck
Phoenix AZ

On Nov 17, 2005, at 11:03 AM, Sunil Hari wrote:



kleb, i h8 u.

seriously, are the 6.2 diesel engines any good? I remember at some  
point

that GM converted gas engines to diesel with poor success



On 11/17/05, Donald Snook <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Kaleb Wrote:



check out my new ride



http://www.striplin.net/90%20suburban/





I'll give you $500.





Donald H. Snook

McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn & Herrington, P.A.

300 West Douglas

P.O. Box 207

Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207

Tel. (316) 263-5851

This confidential message may be subject to the attorney-client
privilege or protected by the attorney work-product doctrine. If you
have recieved this message in error, please delete it and notify me.



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--
Sunil Hari
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

Re: [MBZ] Kaleb's new ride

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

The 5.7 was a gas 350 converted to diesel.  They gave diesels a bad name 
.  From what I understand though even those are OK once they are sorted 
out properly.  The 6.2 was a diesel from scratch.  Built by Detroit. 
Seems people either love them or hate them.  I have NEVER had trouble 
with a 6.2.  Others will say they are junk but thats probably because 
whoever was working on them didnt know what they were doing.  GM really 
didnt support the dealers as far as educating them on diesels.


Sunil Hari wrote:


kleb, i h8 u.

seriously, are the 6.2 diesel engines any good? I remember at some point
that GM converted gas engines to diesel with poor success



On 11/17/05, Donald Snook <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Kaleb Wrote:



check out my new ride



http://www.striplin.net/90%20suburban/





I'll give you $500.





Donald H. Snook

McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn & Herrington, P.A.

300 West Douglas

P.O. Box 207

Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207

Tel. (316) 263-5851

This confidential message may be subject to the attorney-client
privilege or protected by the attorney work-product doctrine. If you
have recieved this message in error, please delete it and notify me.



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--
Sunil Hari
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

Re: [MBZ] Kaleb's new ride

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

HAHA, no, they removed all that but Im betting I can put some back in, 
along with lights!!


Chuck Landenberger wrote:


Kaleb,

Siren still work

Chuck
On Nov 17, 2005, at 10:30 AM, Donald Snook wrote:



Kaleb Wrote:



check out my new ride



http://www.striplin.net/90%20suburban/





I'll give you $500.





Donald H. Snook

McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn & Herrington, P.A.

300 West Douglas

P.O. Box 207

Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207

Tel. (316) 263-5851

This confidential message may be subject to the attorney-client
privilege or protected by the attorney work-product doctrine. If you
have recieved this message in error, please delete it and notify me.



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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

Re: [MBZ] Absolutely pathetic fuel "economy"

[Peter Frederick]

First, unless you've fixed it already, it's somewhat likely the 
odometer is slipping and not recording the milage correctly.


Second, you very likely have a worn timing chain unless it's been 
replaced.


Fix the odometer, replace the timing chain, do a valve adjust (or valve 
job if the valves aren't tight in the guides, you're about due for one 
of those, too), and you will be back up in the correct milage range.


Peter

Re: [MBZ] Kaleb's new ride

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

haha

Donald Snook wrote:

Kaleb Wrote: 

 


check out my new ride

 


http://www.striplin.net/90%20suburban/

 

 

I'll give you $500.  

 

 


Donald H. Snook

McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn & Herrington, P.A. 


300 West Douglas

P.O. Box 207

Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207

Tel. (316) 263-5851

This confidential message may be subject to the attorney-client
privilege or protected by the attorney work-product doctrine. If you
have recieved this message in error, please delete it and notify me.  

 


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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

Re: [MBZ] check out my new ride

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

That was the only one.  Picked it up at the city surplus auction last 
week.  Just one other dude bidding on it so I picked it up real cheap. 
Its only got 71K miles on it too.


Kayoooh wrote:


From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [MBZ] check out my new ride

http://www.striplin.net/90%20suburban/




Congratulations Kaleb, looks nice.

I have been looking for one myself for a while now!
Please tell me if there is more where that one came from.

Take care,

Omar.



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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

Re: [MBZ] How far can you drive a diesel with faiIed charging sys?

[Peter Frederick]

About 590 miles for my 87 300D assuming 30 mpg.  My brother's SDL 
should go almost 800 miles.


Too long for me, I have to stop every couple hours anymore or my knees 
swell up.


Peter

Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG)

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Just unscrew then from the sway bar and the control arm

Luther Gulseth wrote:


I hate to say this...but that's what I paid for my '82 300CD with a supposedly 
bad transmission.  $60 for M1 ATF and filter kit and she's as good as new.  
Kaleb, how do you replace the sway bar links?

-Original Message-
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Nov 17, 2005 10:21 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD  (LONG)



Smith, Todd wrote:



Hello,

I am a recent newcomer and lurker on this list and I have enjoyed the expert 
advice and friendly atmosphere to frequently asked questions.  About a month 
ago, I purchased a 1985 300CD from eBay that I had planned to use as a daily 
driver and as a suitable candidate for biodiesel.  Unfortunately, neither of 
these goals has been met since some unexpected expenses have tapped my 
biodiesel fund and the car has issues that were not correctly presented during 
the sale.

This has led me to the unenviable task of selling the car to recover the funds 
that I have in it.  My goal is to accurately report everything that I know or 
believe about the car with enough pictures to hopefully cover all angles.  I 
want the next buyer to be able to make an informed decision.  Yes, I know that 
this is stupid since it will probably cost me the sale but I am tired of being 
burned and this is the only way to break the cycle.  The pictures are available 
at http://photos.yahoo.com/tssmith2002

The car is white; the paint is somewhat faded but is generally okay, especially 
considering its age.  There is rust on one fender and but the rubber covers 
over the bumpers still seem good.  It may appear to have rust along the trunk 
lid but that is actually two leaves that I didn't't notice until I was looking 
at the pictures.  I can take another picture if someone wishes me to confirm 
that statement.  The doors are solid with the exception of the trim of the 
passenger's door.  There is a picture with me placing my finger in the gap that 
is sprung from the trim.

The interior is worn but still serviceable with the majority of the wear in the 
driver's seat.  There is a tear or spilt seam in the middle of the back seat 
that looks like it needs some attention.  I believe that the interior pictures 
cover the interior pretty well.  If anyone needs a better picture or can make a 
suggestion as to something that a buyer might want to see; please feel free to 
ask me.

Good points:

1)  Car runs and I have driven it over 300 miles at Interstate 
speeds from Maryland to its current home in Charleston, West Virginia.
2)  Aftermarket radio plays pretty well with good reception.
3)  Climate control seems to work with the exception of A/C.
4)  Front windows work howbeit slowly.  The rear power windows do 
not retract, PO says that switches are bad but motors are good.  (Motor 
condition not verified)
5)  Rides pretty good for a car of its age.
6)  My personal belief is that the engine and transmission is good 
but both need attention.
7)  It's a MB diesel and if it finds a good home then it should run 
for a while longer.
8)   Tires are almost brand new and show very deep tread.

Bad points:

	1)	Serious vacuum issues:  Engine doesn't't cutoff, Automatic Transmission shifts poorly, Door locks are inoperable, 



Just track down the vacuum leak, probably one of the door lock elements.
Cruise Control works but will not hold speed for long.

Needs new CC unit.



2)  Extremely poor acceleration:  This is my first diesel and first 
MB, so this might be user error.  When at a light, I have to almost stand on 
the accelerator to get it to crawl through a light.  It takes several car 
lengths to accelerator to 20MPH and then it seems to run better.  It will reach 
70+ MPH but it doesn't't like to hold it.  Letting off the accelerator seems to 
have a large drop in speed by 10-15MPH almost immediately.



Plugged ALDA line, and/or need to adjust boost and ALDA



3)  Power steering is inoperable.  PO indicates that power steering 
pump leaks profusely and removed PS drive belt and pulley.  I have taken 
pictures of belt and pulley and they are with the car but not installed.



I have plenty of pumps cheap



4)  Unknown mileage since odometer doesn't't work.  The Title says 
248K miles but the odometer says 238K and I have added ~400 miles on since I 
have owned it.  I believe that the mileage on the Title is reasonably correct 
but I have no way of verifying what the PO placed on the Title.



Oh well, easy to fix the odo



5)  Trunk lock has been drilled out by PO.



Stupid PO



6)   Since the engine doesn't cutoff, then the engine has to be killed 
with the fuel cutoff switch on the IP.  The primary hood release has broken off 
at the handle and protrudes through the hood.  Since the primary 

Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG)

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Smith, Todd wrote:


Hello Kaleb,

Thank you for your response.  I agree that plumbing the vacuum lines would be 
make a big difference.  Are the door lock elements in the door itself or under 
the hood?


The lock elements are in each door.  Really need to get the factory 
manual or CD and will make that testing easy.






Just track down the vacuum leak, probably one of the door lock elements.


Cruise Control works but will not hold speed for long.


Needs new CC unit.



Is the CC unit a pricey component?  Of course, CC is low on the priority list 
right now but for future planning purposes.


Not really, I have plenty of used ones in stock if/when you need one.




Plugged ALDA line, and/or need to adjust boost and ALDA



I have read about adjusting boost on the of the few articles still left on 
mbz.com page but I heard of people talking about ALDA but I don't know what 
that is?



There is a plastic line that runs from a banjo bolt on the back of the 
intake manifold to a little protection switch on the firewall, then to 
the top of the injection pump, the ALDA.  Take the banjo bolt out, make 
sure its clean, make sure the line is clean, bypass the switchover valve 
for testing purposes then see what it does.  If the little black cap is 
still on top of the ALDA, it has never been adjusted.  Pop that cap out 
and adjust it out about 1/2 a turn at a time, no more than 2 turns total.



6)  A clunking noise that is seems to emanate from the rear 
passenger wheel.  It is noticeable at low speeds and seems to quiet down at 
highway speed but it is always in the background.  I believe that this may be a 
sticking brake since the brakes are very firm when pressed.  Dr. Booth in 
answering a similar question that was posted recently suggested a possible bad 
half-axle.



Its the rear sway bar links.  ABout $15 each and takes about 3 minutes 


to replace.

That is good news to hear since I was afraid that it was the axle half-shaft or 
worse.


If it was the axle shaft it would be banging around pretty loud.


Thank you for your time

Todd Smith

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

Re: [MBZ] Fuel Shutoff Valve Replacement

[Chuck Landenberger]

Bob,

I've had a golf tee in the line for several months Not anxious to  
"skin" the doors to chase down the leak.  One of those things on the  
"someday" list.  The trunk lock will remain locked and require a key  
be used all the time if your car acts the same as mine.


Take care,

Chuck
Phoenix AZ
1980 300SD

On Nov 17, 2005, at 2:41 PM, Bob Rentfro wrote:

Everything works well with the yellow line disconnectedexcept  
for, of
course, the door locks, fuel filler flap, and the trunk lock. At  
some point
I suppose I'll tear into the doors and start systematically  
replacing the

almost 30 year old lines and pods and switches.
I still must address the oil in the lines issue and I reckon I will  
check
out the "oil"  more closely to see if it oil...or maybe brake  
fluid...or M1

ATF.
Thanks again, smart guys, for your help. As the kids would say,  
"You ROCK!"


Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 142K
Litchfield Park, AZ




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Re: [MBZ] Absolutely pathetic fuel "economy"

[l02turner]

Thanks Bob (and Marshall),
Very well explained.  I missed it the 1st time Dokter Booth instructed us 
;-)


Now, how does the fuel injection timing affect fuel economy & performance - 
with the kind of background provided below.


Sorry if this has been explained in the past - my memory is terrible (due to 
meds).  We;re changing meds so hopefullly that sideaffect will disappear. 
Or, I guess it could get worse and I'd forget I have a memory loss problem. 
;-\


;-)

TIA --

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Bob Rentfro" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 4:45 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Absolutely pathetic fuel "economy"



Herr Doktor Booth schooled us as follows:

" Your engine is NOT running "rich." With diesels there really is NO such
thing (except at wide open "throttle" under full load - and then there
IS smoke). More fuel simply translates into the engine running faster -
UNTIL you use up all the air and then the engine smokes. If you are
using more fuel to go the same distance (and NOT smoking all the way)
you are either NOT measuring something correctly, OR doing more work, OR
the energy isn't being effectively transformed into motion OR the fuel
is leaking/being dumped somewhere - somehow. There really aren't any
more options."

This was my nugget for the day...

Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 142K
Litchfield Park, AZ




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Re: [MBZ] Absolutely pathetic fuel "economy"

[Christopher McCann]

also makes it harder to collect ALL 5 high mileage awards - one of my life 
goals.
  
  Chris

David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Another thought: VDO odometers have 
a tendency to develop cracks in the 
gears that make them stick or slip at certain points in the rotation.  
(I had one in a VW that would stick briefly every time three tenths came 
around, for example.)  This isn't always very noticeable if you aren't 
watching closely, and it can cause low and wildly variable fuel economy 
numbers.

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] How far can you drive a diesel with faiIed charging sys?
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rumor has it that Zeitgeist wrote:

> Even the old-fangled diesels with distributer-type injection pumps (VW
> / Cummins) would eventually fall victim to a lack of sufficient
> electrons, due to their electro-mechanical shutoff solenoids.
> 
> On 11/17/05, Kevin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > On Thu, Nov 17, 2005 at 01:50:20PM -0500, wilton strickland wrote:
> > > 'Til it's out of fuel.
> >
> > Unless it's one of the new-fangled models with electronics, of course.

That's why the 14L Cummins engines have a thumbscrew to force the
solenoid to the "on" position - even with no electron flow.

 Philip, who drove a BigCam3 >500 miles with a dead alternator

Re: [MBZ] Absolutely pathetic fuel "economy"

[David Brodbeck]

Another thought: VDO odometers have a tendency to develop cracks in the 
gears that make them stick or slip at certain points in the rotation.  
(I had one in a VW that would stick briefly every time three tenths came 
around, for example.)  This isn't always very noticeable if you aren't 
watching closely, and it can cause low and wildly variable fuel economy 
numbers.

Re: [MBZ] Absolutely pathetic fuel "economy"

[Christopher McCann]

crappy post Katria fuel and funky odo have been my  pet theories as to why my 
mpgs have gone down recently too (on the SD).  Not cold enough in the last 
couple months for THAT (coldness) to have  effected it.
  
  Also, the TD (haven't had it long enough to really get a feel for it),  does 
not seem to get great mpg's...makes me think of more crappy fuel...
  
  Chris

David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Christopher McCann wrote:
> don't forget to test the odo with a GPS or against mile markers on the highway
>   

Good point.  Mine is 5% high.


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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Absolutely pathetic fuel "economy"
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This brings up a past experience for me.  1 tank full I got over 400 to the 
tank, the next one I was struggling to get 300, same with the next 2.  I 
thought I had a fuel leak.  Checked and checked and...nothing.  Then the 
next tank the odo quit right at 200 miles into the tank, viola, we have the 
cause to our problem.  Just a thought from my experience.

-Original Message-
From: Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Nov 17, 2005 5:10 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Absolutely pathetic fuel "economy"

don't forget to test the odo with a GPS or against mile markers on the highway
  
  Chris




Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (happily running diesel/WVO mix)
'82 300CD slate grey, black interior, 152,xxx mi

Re: [MBZ] Absolutely pathetic fuel "economy"

[Marshall Booth]

andrew strasfogel wrote:

My 300TD has been getting progressively, steadily worsening fuel economy
over the last few years. 


Different fuel supplies WILL result in differences as great as 20% in 
fuel economy. My 190D 2.5 turbo will deliver 33-36 mpg on BP/Amoco fuel, 
while MOST other brands I've tried in the last two years, deliver 28-32 mpg.


When fuel supplies have gotten tight, even the energy content of 
BP/Amoco fuel has declined.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] idle insanity!

[Christopher McCann]

Brilliant! and so simple, even I can do it! Will  do if not cured when I pick 
the SD back up from the Indy who is  re-re-adjusting the idle. Nifty little 
tool for that he has...much  simpler on a W124 though.
  
  Thanks,
  
  Chris

Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Christopher McCann wrote:
> Timing chain is brand new.
>   
>  Damper bolt is new and the new style. Also, I don't have any lope (know  
> what that is...that's why I got the new bolt)...this is a rhythmic  
> revving...like pushing the accelerator ever so slightly - no engine  loping 
> at all. It happens in PARK, NEUTRAL and DRIVE WHEN THERE IS NO  LOAD 
> (coasting down hill). The rev is between - oh - 600 and 800 rpm  and cycles 
> every 1.5 seconds...but NO LOPE.
>   

Try disconnecting the accelerator linkage COMPLETELY from the injection 
pump next time the engine revs rhythmically! Sometimes when a motor 
mount collapses, the engine ends up hanging from the accelerator linkage 
and as it shakes, that tugs on the linkage and changes the idle speed. 
Replacing all three mounts and adjusting the linkage WILL cure that.

Marshall
-- 
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

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Content preview: Christopher McCann wrote: > don't forget to test the
odo
with a GPS or against mile markers on the highway > Good point. Mine is
5% high. [...] 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Absolutely pathetic fuel "economy"
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Christopher McCann wrote:
> don't forget to test the odo with a GPS or against mile markers on the highway
>   

Good point.  Mine is 5% high.

Re: [MBZ] Absolutely pathetic fuel "economy"

[Christopher McCann]

don't forget to test the odo with a GPS or against mile markers on the highway
  
  Chris

Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  David Brodbeck wrote:
> 
> The most accurate way to calculate fuel economy is as follows:
> - Fill the tank until the pump shuts off.
> - Drive.
> - Refill the tank, preferably from the same pump, since the shutoff
> point varies from pump to pump.

I'd run it off a small tank under the hood, even a quart mayonaise jar
will do. Plug the lines from the tank, and hook both the supply and
return lines to the jar. You can conduct an accurate mpg test in
a few miles this way. If your mileage still stinks, you know the
problem is under the hood and not with a rusty line under the car.

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-
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Content preview:  Bob Rentfro wrote: > Everything works well with the
yellow line disconnectedexcept for, of > course, the door locks,
fuel filler flap, and the trunk lock. At some point > I suppose I'll
tear into the doors and start systematically replacing the > almost 30
year old lines and pods and switches. > [...] 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fuel Shutoff Valve Replacement
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Bob Rentfro wrote:
> Everything works well with the yellow line disconnectedexcept for, of 
> course, the door locks, fuel filler flap, and the trunk lock. At some point 
> I suppose I'll tear into the doors and start systematically replacing the 
> almost 30 year old lines and pods and switches.
>   

If you pull up the passenger side carpet, you can access the point where 
the individual lines split off.  You can then test each lock and unlock 
line with yo

Re: [MBZ] Absolutely pathetic fuel "economy"

[Rich Thomas]

OK guys, it's time to start putting more fuel INTO Andrew's tank every 
few nights!


HAHAHAHA, I don't care who you are, that right there is funny!

--R

andrew strasfogel wrote:


My 300TD has been getting progressively, steadily worsening fuel economy
over the last few years. It runs fine, there are no fuel leaks to speak of,
and I haven't changed my driving habits. I had been driving it in "2" at
Marshall's recommendation, but thought this might be causing the decline in
fuel economy so switched back to "D" around town.
Makes zero difference.
When I say the fuel economy s*cks, this means that whereas I used to drive
up to 380 miles before the reserve light came on, now it's exactly 100 miles
LOWER when I hit reserve (under 300 miles). This translates to 18 or 19 mpg.
I am beginning to feel ashamed that my DIESEL could fare so POORLY in fuel
consumption. Best I ever got was 27 on the highway but until a couple years
ago I faithfully averaged 22-24 during the non-winter seasons, mixed
driving.
I assume my problem is that the engine is running "rich". How would this be
addressed?
Thanks in advance,
1983 300 TD
267 K miles
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Re: [MBZ] idle insanity!

[Marshall Booth]

redghost wrote:
since the timing chain is new install, could it have jumped a tooth on 
the IP sprocket?


I think it may be accumulated off fuel.  this is not the AKP, I assume. 
  cold weather making it not flow as it wants to, so the engine is 
searching for proper idle


NO CHANCE! A tooth off (that's an 18 degree error) and the engine runs 
HORRIBLY. In one direction, the engine won't even turn over (pistons 
will hit valves).


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] idle insanity!

[Marshall Booth]

Christopher McCann wrote:

Timing chain is brand new.
  
  Damper bolt is new and the new style. Also, I don't have any lope (know  what that is...that's why I got the new bolt)...this is a rhythmic  revving...like pushing the accelerator ever so slightly - no engine  loping at all. It happens in PARK, NEUTRAL and DRIVE WHEN THERE IS NO  LOAD (coasting down hill). The rev is between - oh - 600 and 800 rpm  and cycles every 1.5 seconds...but NO LOPE.
  


Try disconnecting the accelerator linkage COMPLETELY from the injection 
pump next time the engine revs rhythmically! Sometimes when a motor 
mount collapses, the engine ends up hanging from the accelerator linkage 
and as it shakes, that tugs on the linkage and changes the idle speed. 
Replacing all three mounts and adjusting the linkage WILL cure that.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] Water in the trunk

[Marshall Booth]

David Brodbeck wrote:

Nick Gough wrote:

Have you checked the trunk seal itself? The trunk lid could be out of  
alignment and allowing water to get in through the gap. BTDT.


That's on my list, too.  Any good tricks for checking it?  I was 
thinking of smearing lipstick on the seal, closing the trunk, then 
opening it again and looking for gaps in the 'kiss mark' on the trunk lid...



Slip a strip of paper in and close the trunk. Try that several times in 
different places. There should be resistance to pulling the paper out. 
If the water is dripping off of the hinges, the water probably isn't 
likely coming in around the truck seals (and certainly NOT the tail 
light seals or the filler pipe seal), but from above - like around the 
rear window. The truck DOES have some adjustment of the hinge to insure 
that it does seal.


On some models, water CAN enter the trunk around the model (300D/190D 
etc) emblem or the star or the truck latch.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] Absolutely pathetic fuel "economy"

[Bob Rentfro]

Herr Doktor Booth schooled us as follows: 

" Your engine is NOT running "rich." With diesels there really is NO such 
thing (except at wide open "throttle" under full load - and then there 
IS smoke). More fuel simply translates into the engine running faster - 
UNTIL you use up all the air and then the engine smokes. If you are 
using more fuel to go the same distance (and NOT smoking all the way) 
you are either NOT measuring something correctly, OR doing more work, OR 
the energy isn't being effectively transformed into motion OR the fuel 
is leaking/being dumped somewhere - somehow. There really aren't any 
more options."


This was my nugget for the day...

Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 142K
Litchfield Park, AZ

 

Re: [MBZ] Absolutely pathetic fuel "economy"

[Mitch Haley]

Marshall Booth wrote:
> Tire pressure below the top
> end of the Mercedes recommendations can reduce fuel economy by 10-15%.
> Improperly adjusted valves can reduce it a little.

I'm thinking that if he had a brake hose acting like a one-way valve
it would have killed the pads a few times in the last couple of years,
but I suppose it wouldn't hurt to jack up the wheels and give them
a spin to find out.

Re: [MBZ] Fuel Shutoff Valve Replacement

[Bob Rentfro]

Everything works well with the yellow line disconnectedexcept for, of 
course, the door locks, fuel filler flap, and the trunk lock. At some point 
I suppose I'll tear into the doors and start systematically replacing the 
almost 30 year old lines and pods and switches.
I still must address the oil in the lines issue and I reckon I will check 
out the "oil"  more closely to see if it oil...or maybe brake fluid...or M1 
ATF.

Thanks again, smart guys, for your help. As the kids would say, "You ROCK!"

Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 142K
Litchfield Park, AZ

Re: [MBZ] Absolutely pathetic fuel "economy"

[Marshall Booth]

andrew strasfogel wrote:

My 300TD has been getting progressively, steadily worsening fuel economy
over the last few years. It runs fine, there are no fuel leaks to speak of,
and I haven't changed my driving habits. I had been driving it in "2" at
Marshall's recommendation, but thought this might be causing the decline in
fuel economy so switched back to "D" around town.
Makes zero difference.
 When I say the fuel economy s*cks, this means that whereas I used to drive
up to 380 miles before the reserve light came on, now it's exactly 100 miles
LOWER when I hit reserve (under 300 miles). This translates to 18 or 19 mpg.
I am beginning to feel ashamed that my DIESEL could fare so POORLY in fuel
consumption. Best I ever got was 27 on the highway but until a couple years
ago I faithfully averaged 22-24 during the non-winter seasons, mixed
driving.
 I assume my problem is that the engine is running "rich". How would this be
addressed?
 Thanks in advance,


Your engine is NOT running "rich." With diesels there really is NO such 
thing (except at wide open "throttle" under full load - and then there 
IS smoke). More fuel simply translates into the engine running faster - 
UNTIL you use up all the air and then the engine smokes. If you are 
using more fuel to go the same distance (and NOT smoking all the way) 
you are either NOT measuring something correctly, OR doing more work, OR 
the energy isn't being effectively transformed into motion OR the fuel 
is leaking/being dumped somewhere - somehow. There really aren't any 
more options.


How does chain stretch measure? More than 6 degrees and economy will 
drop a little. When the thermostats in my cars stick open, fuel economy 
drops - sometime by 20%. Engine needs to come from a cold start up to 
85+ degrees C. (185 F) within several minutes of driving or the 
thermostat is likely stuck open (at least a little) and fuel economy 
WILL suffer (maybe a little or maybe a lot). Tire pressure below the top 
end of the Mercedes recommendations can reduce fuel economy by 10-15%. 
Improperly adjusted valves can reduce it a little.


Fuel leaking somewhere is the most common cause.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] Fuel Shutoff Valve Replacement

[Loren Faeth]

Bad vacuum pod on one of the door locks, or the vac hose is unhooked 
somewhere.  I had a 123 where the yellow line came off the rubber connector 
for no apparent reason.


At 02:35 PM 11/17/2005, you wrote:

I seem to remember that the yellow line goes to the door locks.

On 11/17/05, Bob Rentfro <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> The shutoff valve is not at fault!
> What does the yellow line go to? I plugged off the yellow vacuum line, as
> a
> manner of troubleshooting, and now everything works wicked good. Is it it
> doors?
>
> Bob Rentfro
> '77 300D 142K
> Litchfield Park, Az
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "LT Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 10:31 AM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fuel Shutoff Valve Replacement
>
>
> > Is your car shutting off as it should?
> >
> > On 11/17/05, Bob Rentfro <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >>
> >> LT Don reassured me:
> >>
> >> "If you can tug on the valve and feel resistance when it is being held
> on
> >> only by the MityVac, you're good to go."
> >>
> >>
> >> So...help me review...
> >> There are only two places oil can get into the vacuum system: the
> vacuum
> >> pump and the shut off valve, correct?
> >>
> >> If I put the Mity Vac on the currently installed shut off valve, its
> hold
> >> vacuum all day long...now I'm kinda stumped.
> >>
> >> Bob Rentfro
> >> '77 300D 142K
> >> Litchfield Park, AZ
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ___
> >> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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> >>
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> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > 1977 240D
> > 1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle
> >
> > http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
> > ___
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>
>
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--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

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Re: [MBZ] Absolutely pathetic fuel "economy"

[Mitch Haley]

David Brodbeck wrote:
> 
> The most accurate way to calculate fuel economy is as follows:
> - Fill the tank until the pump shuts off.
> - Drive.
> - Refill the tank, preferably from the same pump, since the shutoff
> point varies from pump to pump.

I'd run it off a small tank under the hood, even a quart mayonaise jar
will do. Plug the lines from the tank, and hook both the supply and
return lines to the jar. You can conduct an accurate mpg test in
a few miles this way. If your mileage still stinks, you know the
problem is under the hood and not with a rusty line under the car.

Re: [MBZ] Fuel Shutoff Valve Replacement

[Marshall Booth]

Bob Rentfro wrote:

LT Don reassured me:

"If you can tug on the valve and feel resistance when it is being held on
 only by the MityVac, you're good to go."

So...help me review...
There are only two places oil can get into the vacuum system: the vacuum 
pump and the shut off valve, correct?


If I put the Mity Vac on the currently installed shut off valve, its hold 
vacuum all day long...now I'm kinda stumped.


If the vacuum line to the shutoff holds vacuum (and shuts off the 
engine) it's NOT the valve. You CAN get engine oil into the lines from 
the valve or the vacuum pump or transmission fluid (on cars that 
modulate transmission operation with vacuum) from the transmission or 
brake fluid from the vacuum booster. I can't think of anything else - 
any other suggestions?


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] idle insanity!

[Christopher McCann]

chain jumping a tooth - well, don't know, but i  really doubt it as the chain 
was new in June and the rhythmic revving  (not loping) started about 1 month 
ago.
  
  No, not the AKP-Wagen, this is the SD. Bad fuel - well, this IS  possible. 
THe rhythmic revving thing started after the car was parked  for two 
weeks...maybe bugs grew... But then I would have clogged  filters and loss of 
power, which I do NOT have. Also, it does it  whether it is warm out or cold.

redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  since the timing chain is new install, 
could it have jumped a tooth on 
the IP sprocket?

I think it may be accumulated off fuel.  this is not the AKP, I assume. 
  cold weather making it not flow as it wants to, so the engine is 
searching for proper idle


On Thursday, November 17, 2005, at 08:44 AM, Christopher McCann wrote:

> Thanks for the research. Sounds like all the  suggestions thus far 
> were repeated there. Obviously not the first time  this problem has 
> been presented to the list.
>
>   Chris
>
>

--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 charging system fails, how far can you drive,
lots
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John M McIntosh wrote:
> Voltage regulator, bad. Did not charge the battery. By observing the  
> issues the few days before, this
> happened over a few days and that morning glowing, heaters etc  
> managed to suck the last amps out
> of the battery.
> 
> PS funny thing is that last week when I was diagnosing my climate  
> controls issues I had a volt meter
> test on the voltage to various parts of the cc logic when idling and  
> was thinking, gee the voltage seems low if the system
> is suppose to be charging the battery, but warning bells didn't go off.

The voltage regulator on 124/201 cars usually last ABOUT 150kmi. (all of 
mine did). All of mine wore out before 155kmi and I quickly learned to 
change them the first time at 135-140kmi and when they fail again 
(between 260-300kmi), I buy a rebuilt alternator (rebuilt by Bosch - 
with the Bosch 2 year warranty) since the bearings are likely to be 
toast by then.

Marshall
-- 
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] Absolutely pathetic fuel "economy"

[Christopher McCann]

  
"Someone told me it was because they were using crappier gas at 
the stations."

I have been secretely suspecting this myself since Katrina...

Chris

  
Levi Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  I assume, you're actually calculating 
your mileage based on filling up the
tank and doing the math of miles driven to gallons of gas used and averaging
your mileage over several tanks or more in a row?

If you're simply going by the low fuel light, my first thought would be if
your low fuel light is coming on at the same amount of gallons ever time.

Not to say that you don't have a "real" problem, but just checking to make
sure you know what sort of mileage you're really getting.

If it makes you feel any better I noticed the same thing with my 97' Subaru
Impreza. Someone told me it was because they were using crappier gas at the
stations. I'm trying some acetone and it's helping (though I'm also driving
a little easier, so I haven't yet done enough testing to say for sure which
is helping more). You may want to try it on your Benz. Though it is quite
possible the issue is elsewhere...

Levi (:

On 11/17/05, andrew strasfogel  wrote:
>
> My 300TD has been getting progressively, steadily worsening fuel economy
> over the last few years. It runs fine, there are no fuel leaks to speak
> of,
> and I haven't changed my driving habits. I had been driving it in "2" at
> Marshall's recommendation, but thought this might be causing the decline
> in
> fuel economy so switched back to "D" around town.
> Makes zero difference.
> When I say the fuel economy s*cks, this means that whereas I used to drive
> up to 380 miles before the reserve light came on, now it's exactly 100
> miles
> LOWER when I hit reserve (under 300 miles). This translates to 18 or 19
> mpg.
> I am beginning to feel ashamed that my DIESEL could fare so POORLY in fuel
> consumption. Best I ever got was 27 on the highway but until a couple
> years
> ago I faithfully averaged 22-24 during the non-winter seasons, mixed
> driving.
> I assume my problem is that the engine is running "rich". How would this
> be
> addressed?
> Thanks in advance,
> 1983 300 TD
> 267 K miles
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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

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Re: [MBZ] idle insanity!

[Christopher McCann]

If the IP were "WAY out of calibration" what else might I notice...poor fuel 
economy...like 23mpg hwy? 19mpg city/hwy?
  
  Chris

Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Christopher McCann wrote:
> Two problems with the SD re: idle:
>  
>  1. When engine is cold (not ambient brr cold, just room temp, but  worse 
> when truly COLD) it idles fine BUT as soon as I put it in reverse  (or turn 
> on the A/C in hot weather), the idle drops and the car usually  stalls. Will 
> stall at about 450 RPM.
>  
> 2. Let's say we  start the car and no reverse or A/C is needed, the idle is 
> fine...we  drive 1-3 miles. Come to a stop and the idle is PULSATING between, 
> say,  550-700 or so...just revving between those two engine speeds,  
> rhytmiically, on its own. I would say 1 complete rev cycle per 1.5  seconds.
>  
>  3. Drive it a bit more, get the engine hot and the rhythmic idle goes away 
> as does the reverse stall problem.
>  
>  Took to my Indy today. He said, "Adjust Idle". OK. It was cold (engine  and 
> 0 degrees C out), car starts, put in reverse, get halwayt out of  the parking 
> spot - STALL. Drive a few miles to my friend's house, park  it and lo and 
> behold, the rythmic idle rec described above.
>  
>  Obviously something other than idle adjust needs done. Is there some  GIZMO 
> that controls idle when a load is put on (A/C, reverse (no  acceleration in 
> reverse, just reverse and idle backwards (down hill -  still stalls!))) 
> and/or would also cause the rhythmic idling?
>  
>  Please help! Have had idle adjusted twice (with no effect) and I have  no 
> idea what the problem is. Would like to get some list opinions to  take with 
> me when I go back to my Indy tomorrow.

The engine lope you describe is almost always the result of the rack 
damper not doing its job properly. It may be that it's an original 
(silver) rack damper or it may be that a revised (gold) rack damper 
screw is not properly adjusted.

The OM61x engine NO machinery to raise the idle in response to changing 
load (it's supposed to be held at the the set rpm under all conditions, 
but isn't - especially in very cold or very hot situations). Older 
versions had a dash knob that could be twisted to raise idle when 
required, but that was eliminated and the end of the '70s. On worn 
engines, it's sometimes necessary to raise the idle to the upper end of 
the allowable idle range (700-800 rpm) or even a little higher to 
prevent stalling under some conditions. It's POSSIBLE that the injection 
pump is simply worn out or WAY out of calibration.

Marshall
-- 
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-
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Re: [MBZ] check out my new ride

[Dave Wakin]

Gotta ask - was that a $500'er?

Dave W

- Original Message - 
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Banned List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Mercedes mailing list" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 11:53 AM
Subject: [MBZ] check out my new ride



http://www.striplin.net/90%20suburban/
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Re: [MBZ] idle insanity!

[Christopher McCann]

Timing chain is brand new.
  
  Damper bolt is new and the new style. Also, I don't have any lope (know  what 
that is...that's why I got the new bolt)...this is a rhythmic  revving...like 
pushing the accelerator ever so slightly - no engine  loping at all. It happens 
in PARK, NEUTRAL and DRIVE WHEN THERE IS NO  LOAD (coasting down hill). The rev 
is between - oh - 600 and 800 rpm  and cycles every 1.5 seconds...but NO LOPE.
  
  Chris

Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Christopher McCann wrote:
> 1. Idle speed is not too low - just now adjusted a bit high (to address this 
> problem)...prolly around 800.
>   2. what are other symptoms of late injection timing...don't you tend to get 
> smoke? I never have smoke - ever.
>   3. Timing chain is brand new
>  4. rack positioner stop bolt - is that the same as the rack damper  bolt? If 
> so, already had it replaced with the new one - know exactly  what you mean 
> about THAT problem being worse hot than cold

IF injection timing is late (chain stretched) there WILL be additional 
smoke IF the ALDA is optimally set, but many 617.95 engines (especially 
later ones) had the ALDAs set VERY "lean" at the factory so may NEVER 
smoke no matter what you do. You can't use either the presence or 
absence of smoke to diagnose stretch - chain stretch needs to be 
MEASURED and since you need to be in there every 15kmi to check valves, 
it takes only one minute more to measure stretch.

The rack damper screw spring prevents the rack from oscillating. If it's 
not adjusted in far enough the engine will lope. If it's adjusted too 
far in it will impede or prevent cold starting. The revised damper (with 
a short stiff spring) is NOT temperature sensitive. The original one 
(with a long weak spring) was or became temp sensitive as it aged. 
Proper adjustment requires the engine be warmed up and the damper turned 
in until the lope JUST stops (this happens VERY suddenly - from no 
damping to full damping in a tiny fraction of a turn). Just a little too 
far and the engine will not start well (or even at all) when cold. Then 
the damper must be locked down (without changing the adjustment).

That MAY not prevent the engine from stalling (stalling is a matter of 
the engine not getting sufficient fuel to keep it running), but it WILL 
correct the lope!

Marshall
-- 
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] idle insanity! (another observation)
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Re: [MBZ] 124 Control Arm Bushings

[Dave M.]

John,

The dealer is either lazy or mis-informed:

You can buy the bushings separately, for something like $100 per side
(list price). Labor to install shouldn't be more than a couple hours
per side, plus alignment. I have a hard time seeing this job over
$500-$600, even at the dealership. They need to pull the control arms,
with the spring compressor, but it's not THAT difficult or time
consuming. The ball joints are replaceable separately, if they are
good, you do NOT have to change them.

Now, for cars with an M104 or M119 engine, the control arms are
different. The bushings are still replaceable separately, however the
ball joints are NOT... they are welded into the arm, requiring
complete replacement of the arm. The whole new arm is bloody expensive
at ~$400/each, list.

If so inclined, you can choose to have Sportline bushings installed,
intead of the squishy stock bushings. The price is almost the same.

:-)

-Dave M.

> --
> Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 09:20:17 -0500
> From: "John Peterson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] 124 Control Arm Bushings
>
>
> I brought  my '91 300D 2.5 74k miles in to the dealer to diagnose a slight
> clunking sound in the front end over uneven pavement.  They say the noise is
> the control arm bushings, which sounds reasonable, but they say that they
> have to change the ball joints, that it is "all one piece".  Total price for
> job, $900 including 4 wheel alignment.  I didn't want to let them do the
> work until I had a second opinion.
>
> Is this true that they have to change the ball joints along with the control
> arm bushings?  They said the ball joints had no play at all in them.
>
> John Peterson
> Kingston RI 1991 300D 2.5 74k

Re: [MBZ] W124 charging system fails, how far can you drive, lots....

[Dave M.]

That's the great thing about the "old", mechanical OM60x engines. Once
the engine is started, it requires zero electrical connections to STAY
running. You will lose wipers, lights, climate control, etc... but the
engine will run until the fuel tank is emptied. The 1990-up models
that have vacuum-operated wategates may suffer power loss (no boost),
but they also should keep running.

:-)

+dm

> --
> Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2005 13:13:27 -0800
> From: John M McIntosh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] W124 charging system fails, how far can you drive,
>lots
>
>
> For excitement this morning, got in w124 wagon, started up drove off
> to highway, then notice heat seater lights blinking, heated rear
> window switch blinking.
> Mmm, charging issue, or battery (new battery tho). Yes the
> serpentine  belts is still there, make decision surely I can make it
> to dealer 20 miles away, shut everything electrical off, that or stop
> car on highway and deal with it. Nah lets assume the alternator isn't
> working, should have enough amps to get there.
>
> Let's see ABS light comes on, SRS light, ASD  light, wipers quit,
> lights go dim... Still runs tho, I wonder is that diesel lift pump is
> mechanical or electric?
> 5 miles to go, starts to rain. I'm toast, wiper won't function, find
> a nice large parking lot to pull into and arrange  car for towing.
>
> Wait an hour for tow truck etc... If it' hadn't started to rain I
> would have made the dealer, in thinking back it must be the glow plug
> relay stuck pulling more
> amps than what the 65Amp alternator could deal with and sucked
> everything dry within 30 minutes, should have thought of that and
> pulled the glowplug
> connector, sigh...
>
> PS well I might have stopped once I started to enter the city it was
> unclear how bright (not) the brake lights were. Still it appears you
> can run a w124 diesel a long way with faulty electrical system.
>
>
> John
> 1983 300TDt  358k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
> 1990 300TDt  154k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
> 1993 500SEL 168k Kilometers (mobil 1 0w40)

Re: [MBZ] check out my new ride

[redghost]

Bet that will get attention when you go to drag home new benz donors.  
Congrats on a cool sweet ride.


On Thursday, November 17, 2005, at 08:53 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:


http://www.striplin.net/90%20suburban/
--



--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] idle insanity!

[redghost]

since the timing chain is new install, could it have jumped a tooth on 
the IP sprocket?


I think it may be accumulated off fuel.  this is not the AKP, I assume. 
 cold weather making it not flow as it wants to, so the engine is 
searching for proper idle



On Thursday, November 17, 2005, at 08:44 AM, Christopher McCann wrote:

Thanks for the research. Sounds like all the  suggestions thus far 
were repeated there. Obviously not the first time  this problem has 
been presented to the list.


  Chris




--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] W124 charging system fails, how far can you drive, lots....

[Marshall Booth]

John M McIntosh wrote:



PS well I might have stopped once I started to enter the city it was  
unclear how bright (not) the brake lights were. Still it appears you  
can run a w124 diesel a long way with faulty electrical system.


I've driven from Pittsburgh to Washington DC (and back ~250 mi each way) 
several times without a working alternator and my daughter made the trip 
from Harrisburg PA to Pittsburgh (200 miles) without an alternator. I've 
never counted on more than a few hours of electrical function (lights, 
heater fan, wipers, radio, etc.) and I don't turn the engine off (just 
lock the car with the engine running when making a "rest" stop). I 
always tried to leave EARLY in the morning or at least 5-6 hours BEFORE 
dusk and a RainX treatment of the windows makes it possible to drive in 
all but the  worst weather without wipers (can get tough in snow 
though). Once moving there's plenty of heat even without the blowers on.


Did I correctly interpret "heat seater lights" as an indication that you 
have seat heaters in the car? Seat heater problems CAN knock out a 
battery and exceed the capacity of the alternator I'm told, but I've 
never dealt with that problem as I don't have seat heaters in ANY of my 
cars. I'm PRETTY sure there were revisions to the seat heater circuits 
but I'm NOT sure when they occurred.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] battery chargers

[Don & Teresa Merriman]

electrolyte level goes down on discharge and back up when fully charged. A
constant low level can also warp the plates in the battery. NAPA sells a
real neat automatic 20 amp charger, leave it on and it will not boil the
battery dry, however you need at least 4 volts in the battery for it to
work.

Adios amibo

On 11/17/05, Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> LT Don wrote:
> > Marshall,
> >
> > The battery is an Interstate MPT-93, which appears to be a sealed unit.
> > There are two panels on top that might be access to add water, but they
> are
> > flush with the top of the battery, which leads me to believe that they
> are
> > not intended to be removed.
>
> You need to open the two "panels" on that battery and be sure the
> electrolyte is well above the plates (and check it every month or so if
> you are charging it frequently). Add distilled water if the level is low.
>
> Marshall
> --
> Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
> "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
> turbo 237kmi
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>



--
Don & Teresa Merriman
Market Place Mexico
Vacation Rentals
Property Administration
www.marketplacemexico.com 

Re: [MBZ] Absolutely pathetic fuel "economy"

[David Brodbeck]

andrew strasfogel wrote:

 When I say the fuel economy s*cks, this means that whereas I used to drive
up to 380 miles before the reserve light came on, now it's exactly 100 miles
LOWER when I hit reserve (under 300 miles). This translates to 18 or 19 mpg.
I am beginning to feel ashamed that my DIESEL could fare so POORLY in fuel
consumption.


Have you actually calculated the fuel economy?  If you're going by the 
reserve light, it may just be that the light isn't working right.  Mine 
sometimes comes on with the tank FULL. ;)


The most accurate way to calculate fuel economy is as follows:
- Fill the tank until the pump shuts off.
- Drive.
- Refill the tank, preferably from the same pump, since the shutoff 
point varies from pump to pump.

- Divide the distance driven by the gallons needed to refill the tank.
- Ideally, repeat this two or three times to get an average.


 I assume my problem is that the engine is running "rich". How would this be
addressed?
  


If it's running rich enough to cause that kind of drop in fuel economy, 
it should be laying down quite a smoke screen...


Have you checked to make sure none of your brakes are dragging?  I've 
seen a single draggy brake drop fuel economy by a good 20% on some 
cars.  Put your hand down by the wheel vents after a freeway run and see 
if one brake disc is throwing off a lot more heat than the others.

Re: [MBZ] Absolutely pathetic fuel "economy"

[Levi Smith]

I assume, you're actually calculating your mileage based on filling up the
tank and doing the math of miles driven to gallons of gas used and averaging
your mileage over several tanks or more in a row?

If you're simply going by the low fuel light, my first thought would be if
your low fuel light is coming on at the same amount of gallons ever time.

Not to say that you don't have a "real" problem, but just checking to make
sure you know what sort of mileage you're really getting.

If it makes you feel any better I noticed the same thing with my 97' Subaru
Impreza. Someone told me it was because they were using crappier gas at the
stations. I'm trying some acetone and it's helping (though I'm also driving
a little easier, so I haven't yet done enough testing to say for sure which
is helping more). You may want to try it on your Benz. Though it is quite
possible the issue is elsewhere...

Levi (:

On 11/17/05, andrew strasfogel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> My 300TD has been getting progressively, steadily worsening fuel economy
> over the last few years. It runs fine, there are no fuel leaks to speak
> of,
> and I haven't changed my driving habits. I had been driving it in "2" at
> Marshall's recommendation, but thought this might be causing the decline
> in
> fuel economy so switched back to "D" around town.
> Makes zero difference.
> When I say the fuel economy s*cks, this means that whereas I used to drive
> up to 380 miles before the reserve light came on, now it's exactly 100
> miles
> LOWER when I hit reserve (under 300 miles). This translates to 18 or 19
> mpg.
> I am beginning to feel ashamed that my DIESEL could fare so POORLY in fuel
> consumption. Best I ever got was 27 on the highway but until a couple
> years
> ago I faithfully averaged 22-24 during the non-winter seasons, mixed
> driving.
> I assume my problem is that the engine is running "rich". How would this
> be
> addressed?
> Thanks in advance,
> 1983 300 TD
> 267 K miles
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>



--
It isn't what you have, or who you are, or where you are, or what you are
doing that makes you happy or unhappy. It is what you think about.
-Dale Carnegie

Re: [MBZ] How far can you drive a diesel with faiIed charging sys?

[Tom Scordato]

If you turn everything hvac/electrical off and you do not need any lights or 
radio, a fairly long time...
- Original Message - 
From: "R A Bennell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 4:22 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] How far can you drive a diesel with faiIed charging sys?



Unless it is really dark out - that may limit how far one gets.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of wilton strickland
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 10:50 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] How far can you drive a diesel with faiIed charging sys?


'Til it's out of fuel.

Wilton

___
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Re: [MBZ] Help

[Rusty Cullens]

Thanks Jim, I am replacing cap today. We'll see what happens.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, November 16, 2005 1:27 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Help

 
In a message dated 11/15/2005 3:52:09 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

In a  message dated 11/15/2005 1:27:34 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,

[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Well,  I'll be damned. I need  help. My W108 1969 280SEL smells horribly
of fuel in  the cockpit, but  there are no leaks anywhere to be found.
Anybody ever  experience  this? Clogged air filter maybe?



Rusty,
 
I thought of something else.  If this only happens with a full tank it
may 
be that the gas cap is not sealing properly and gas is flowing out of
the  tank 
on turns.  This in itself is not bad but if the big rubber grommet  that

seals the fender to the filler pipe is rotten, gas will run into the
trunk  and 
from there all over the passenger compartment.
 
Regards,  

Jim Friesen  (after that 10%)
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 261 K miles 
98 ML 320, 138 K  miles

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[MBZ] Absolutely pathetic fuel "economy"

[andrew strasfogel]

My 300TD has been getting progressively, steadily worsening fuel economy
over the last few years. It runs fine, there are no fuel leaks to speak of,
and I haven't changed my driving habits. I had been driving it in "2" at
Marshall's recommendation, but thought this might be causing the decline in
fuel economy so switched back to "D" around town.
Makes zero difference.
 When I say the fuel economy s*cks, this means that whereas I used to drive
up to 380 miles before the reserve light came on, now it's exactly 100 miles
LOWER when I hit reserve (under 300 miles). This translates to 18 or 19 mpg.
I am beginning to feel ashamed that my DIESEL could fare so POORLY in fuel
consumption. Best I ever got was 27 on the highway but until a couple years
ago I faithfully averaged 22-24 during the non-winter seasons, mixed
driving.
 I assume my problem is that the engine is running "rich". How would this be
addressed?
 Thanks in advance,
 1983 300 TD
267 K miles

Re: [MBZ] Has There Been A Rapture?

[David Brodbeck]

Bumper sticker: "IN THE EVENT OF RAPTURE, CAN I HAVE YOUR CAR?"

Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG)

[David Brodbeck]

Smith, Todd wrote:


I have read about adjusting boost on the of the few articles still left on 
mbz.com page but I heard of people talking about ALDA but I don't know what 
that is?
  


Look for a little square metal device on the injector pump.  It will 
have a thin hose connected to it, via a banjo connection, and a round 
cap on top (or a screw with locknut, if someone's removed the cap.)


Before I cleaned the boost lines and adjusted the ALDA, my car acted 
like yours...dead slow until it hit 2000 rpm, then it would pick up 
steam.  Now it accellerates smartly.  The Mercedes diesels are not 
sports cars, but these are *not* sluggish cars when properly tuned, at 
least not at sea level.


This is *not* the same thing as adjusting the boost level itself -- 
that's done by adjusting the turbocharger wastegate.  You shouldn't mess 
with the wastegate until you have the ALDA straightened out.


There are good instructions for this on the web, but I've lost track of 
where they are.  Hopefully someone will post a pointer.  It's not a 
difficult job.

Re: [MBZ] How far can you drive a diesel with faiIed charging sys?

[Zeitgeist]

Even the old-fangled diesels with distributer-type injection pumps (VW
/ Cummins) would eventually fall victim to a lack of sufficient
electrons, due to their electro-mechanical shutoff solenoids.

On 11/17/05, Kevin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> On Thu, Nov 17, 2005 at 01:50:20PM -0500, wilton strickland wrote:
> > 'Til it's out of fuel.
>
> Unless it's one of the new-fangled models with electronics, of course.

Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler (210k)
'84 300D (205k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (186K)

Re: [MBZ] idle insanity! (another observation)

[Marshall Booth]

Christopher McCann wrote:
The rhythmic revving ONLY happens in PARK and NEUTRAL. NEVER in DRIVE, REVERSE, 3 or 2...even when at a dead stop. 
  


Almost surely suggests that at least ONE motor or transmission mount is 
NOT doing it's job (if they are all the same age, they may all may be 
defective - any that are more than 10-15 years old are NOT doing the job 
they were designed to do). The transmission mount is often neglected and 
in my experience they fail almost as often as motor mounts.


The rhythmic lope problem is managed by the rack damper screw, but only 
WHEN everything else is working as it should work! It manages a 
resonance that relates to the mass of the rack when attached to the 
accelerator linkage. Anything that changes that relationship (and failed 
motor/transmission mounts CAN do that) will result in the resonance 
changing. The little shock absorbers on the engine (some have NONE, some 
have one and some have two) can have a substantial influence on the 
smoothness of idle, but that will not ever result in engine stalling or 
it changing speed/loping.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] W124 charging system fails, how far can you drive, lots....

[John M McIntosh]

Of course the sad thing here is a huge discussion of battery charging/ 
voltage.
And last week when I was doing diagnostics on my climate controls  
system, and looking at the
voltmeter I'm thinking *gee that voltage seems low if the car is  
sitting here idling and charging (not) the battery *

Nah, couldn't be anything wrong with the charging system...

On 17-Nov-05, at 7:23 AM, John M McIntosh wrote:


Voltage regulator, bad. Did not charge the battery. By observing the


John
1983 300TDt  358k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1990 300TDt  154k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1993 500SEL 168k Kilometers (mobil 1 0w40)

Re: [MBZ] How far can you drive a diesel with faiIed charging sys?

[R A Bennell]

Unless it is really dark out - that may limit how far one gets.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of wilton strickland
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 10:50 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] How far can you drive a diesel with faiIed charging sys?


'Til it's out of fuel.

Wilton

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Re: [MBZ] How far can you drive a diesel with faiIed charging sys?

[Kevin]

On Thu, Nov 17, 2005 at 01:50:20PM -0500, wilton strickland wrote:
> 'Til it's out of fuel.

Unless it's one of the new-fangled models with electronics, of course.

K

Re: [MBZ] CU's latest reliability ratings-

[David Brodbeck]

OK Don wrote:

http://autos.msn.com/advice/CRArt.aspx?contentid=4023544&src=LP%20Passenger

Least reliable:

SEDANS: Jaguar S-Type, Lincoln LS, Mercedes-Benz E-Class, Saab 9-3,
Mercedes-Benz S-Class, BMW 5-Series (V8), Audi A8, Chrysler 300 (V8)*,
BMW 7 series
  


I've never been entirely sure what to make of CU's reliability ratings.  
They're so generic.  "Unreliable" could mean anything from "the sunroof 
jams a lot" to "the engine falls out onto the road."  This is 
demonstrated by the fact that luxury cars (which have more to go wrong) 
tend to make the "least reliable" list regularly.

Re: [MBZ] Water in the trunk

[David Brodbeck]

Nick Gough wrote:

Have you checked the trunk seal itself? The trunk lid could be out of  
alignment and allowing water to get in through the gap. BTDT.


That's on my list, too.  Any good tricks for checking it?  I was 
thinking of smearing lipstick on the seal, closing the trunk, then 
opening it again and looking for gaps in the 'kiss mark' on the trunk lid...

Re: [MBZ] CU's latest reliability ratings-

[TimothyPilgrim]

Also note:

Least Reliable:

SPORTY CARS/
CONVERTIBLES/COUPES: Volkswagen New Beetle Convertible, Mercedes-Benz
SL, Mercedes-Benz CLK, Ford Mustang (V6)*, Chevrolet Corvett

WAGONS: Mercedes-Benz E-Class, Volkswagen Passat (V6) (2005), Volvo V50*

Yet none of the M-B SUVs make the best or worst lists... Now why is
that? Is Mercedes also now an SUV company that happens to produce
cars? At least the C-class didn't score poorly.

Tim
1982 300TD Moby

On 11/15/05, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> http://autos.msn.com/advice/CRArt.aspx?contentid=4023544&src=LP%20Passenger
>
> Least reliable:
>
> SEDANS: Jaguar S-Type, Lincoln LS, Mercedes-Benz E-Class, Saab 9-3,
> Mercedes-Benz S-Class, BMW 5-Series (V8), Audi A8, Chrysler 300 (V8)*,
> BMW 7 series
>
> --
> OK Don, KD5NRO
> Norman, OK
> '90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
> The FSM created the Diesel Benz
> http://www.venganza.org/
>
> ___
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>

[MBZ] How far can you drive a diesel with faiIed charging sys?

[wilton strickland]

'Til it's out of fuel.

Wilton

Re: [MBZ] Where not to buy fuel in GA

[Gary Hurst]

the guy i gladly bought fuel from at 4.50 a gallon didn't make the list.

On 11/16/05, redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> http://wsbradio.com/news/111505gaslist.html
>
> --
> Clay
> Seattle Bioburner
>
> 1972 220D - Gump
> 1995 E300D - Cleo
> 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
> The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
>
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] checkout my new ride

[Nick Gough]

Kaleb,
  
  Looks like it could be decent find.
  
  However, that red velour interior is more akin to a house of ill repute  than 
it is to a truck. Of course, that was the style back then.
  :>)
  
  It could probably tow your entire collection of Benzes... all at once. :>)
  
  Enjoy.
  
  
  Nick Gough
  86 300SDL 171k
  93 300E 2.8 121k
  97 Jetta 70k
  

-
 Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.  
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On Thu, Nov 17, 2005 at 01:03:40PM -0500, Sunil Hari wrote:
> seriously, are the 6.2 diesel engines any good? I remember at some point
> that GM converted gas engines to diesel with poor success

That was the oldsmobile 5.7 liter diesel. The 6.2 was a detroit design,
and as long as it was operated within spec, it was fine. It was a teense
light duty for a one ton dually (it was originally designed for 1 GVW
and below). In a suburban or a half ton, it was rock solid. Some people
had problems with turbos, some didn't, that was probably more of an issue
of hauling heavy loads uphill in the wrong gear with the throttle held to
the wood than anything (just a guess).

Given all four of GM's light duty truck diesels (5.7, 6.2, 6.5, duramax), I'd
take the 6.2 long before the others.

K

Re: [MBZ] Fuel Shutoff Valve Replacement

[l02turner]

Hi Bob -
Here's a online location with schematics of the Vacuum system - 
http://www.peterschmid.com/


Hopefully you have a Mighty Vac to assist the troubleshooting --?

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB,  78 240D)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Bob Rentfro" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 1:38 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fuel Shutoff Valve Replacement



The shutoff valve is not at fault!
What does the yellow line go to? I plugged off the yellow vacuum line, as 
a

manner of troubleshooting, and now everything works wicked good. Is it it
doors?

Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 142K
Litchfield Park, Az


- Original Message - 
From: "LT Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 10:31 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fuel Shutoff Valve Replacement



Is your car shutting off as it should?

On 11/17/05, Bob Rentfro <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


LT Don reassured me:

"If you can tug on the valve and feel resistance when it is being held 
on

only by the MityVac, you're good to go."


So...help me review...
There are only two places oil can get into the vacuum system: the vacuum
pump and the shut off valve, correct?

If I put the Mity Vac on the currently installed shut off valve, its 
hold

vacuum all day long...now I'm kinda stumped.

Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 142K
Litchfield Park, AZ




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--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
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Re: [MBZ] battery chargers

[Marshall Booth]

LT Don wrote:

Marshall,

The battery is an Interstate MPT-93, which appears to be a sealed unit.
There are two panels on top that might be access to add water, but they are
flush with the top of the battery, which leads me to believe that they are
not intended to be removed.


You need to open the two "panels" on that battery and be sure the 
electrolyte is well above the plates (and check it every month or so if 
you are charging it frequently). Add distilled water if the level is low.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] Fuel Shutoff Valve Replacement

[Bob Rentfro]

The shutoff valve is not at fault!
What does the yellow line go to? I plugged off the yellow vacuum line, as a 
manner of troubleshooting, and now everything works wicked good. Is it it 
doors?


Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 142K
Litchfield Park, Az


- Original Message - 
From: "LT Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 10:31 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fuel Shutoff Valve Replacement



Is your car shutting off as it should?

On 11/17/05, Bob Rentfro <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


LT Don reassured me:

"If you can tug on the valve and feel resistance when it is being held on
only by the MityVac, you're good to go."


So...help me review...
There are only two places oil can get into the vacuum system: the vacuum
pump and the shut off valve, correct?

If I put the Mity Vac on the currently installed shut off valve, its hold
vacuum all day long...now I'm kinda stumped.

Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 142K
Litchfield Park, AZ




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--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
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Re: [MBZ] idle insanity!

[Christopher McCann]

not sure, I think it is gold...the Indy was fully aware of the old and new 
bolts and said he put the new style in. 
  
  He's very good with diesels. From the 60's through 80's he worked at an  MB 
owned repair shop in Hungary, then was hired by the Hugarian govt to  service 
their embassy benzes all over the world, then worked at  Sindelifingen (after 
fleeing Hungary) for 10 years as one of the last  guys on the line...when the 
10 million point inspection was done, it  was his job to fix WHATEVER was not 
right, so he knows these cars  pretty thoroughly. Anyway, if he said he used 
the new bolt, he probably  did.
  
  Chris

Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Christopher McCann wrote:
>  1. Rack damper bolt in too far - possible. As I first noticed this  problem 
> this summer when I had the old bolt replaced with the new  style. This seems 
> very likely.
>   
>   2. Rack damper bolt out too far - well, this problem, (the revving idle) is 
> new.
>   
>   Another lister mentioned a "worn IP"...what would indicate a worn IP?
>   
>   Someone also mentioned late timeing - but I think that creates smoke and I 
> never smoke.
>   
>   Thanks
>   
>   Chris

What color is the rack damper screw? If it's silver CHANGE it! See 
attachment!

Marshall
-- 
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi
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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-
 Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.  
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Christopher McCann wrote:
> 1. Idle speed is not too low - just now adjusted a bit high (to address this 
> problem)...prolly around 800.
>   2. what are other symptoms of late injection timing...don't you tend to get 
> smoke? I never have smoke - ever.
>   3. Timing chain is brand new
>   4. rack positioner stop bolt - is that the same as the rack damper  bolt? 
> If so, already had it replaced with the new one - know exactly  what you mean 
> about THAT problem being worse hot than cold

IF injection timing is late (chain stretched) there WILL be additional 
smoke IF the ALDA is optimally set, but many 617.95 engines (especially 
later ones) had the ALDAs set VERY "lean" at the f

Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG)

[Luther Gulseth]

I hate to say this...but that's what I paid for my '82 300CD with a supposedly 
bad transmission.  $60 for M1 ATF and filter kit and she's as good as new.  
Kaleb, how do you replace the sway bar links?

-Original Message-
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Nov 17, 2005 10:21 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD  (LONG)



Smith, Todd wrote:

> Hello,
> 
> I am a recent newcomer and lurker on this list and I have enjoyed the expert 
> advice and friendly atmosphere to frequently asked questions.  About a month 
> ago, I purchased a 1985 300CD from eBay that I had planned to use as a daily 
> driver and as a suitable candidate for biodiesel.  Unfortunately, neither of 
> these goals has been met since some unexpected expenses have tapped my 
> biodiesel fund and the car has issues that were not correctly presented 
> during the sale.
> 
> This has led me to the unenviable task of selling the car to recover the 
> funds that I have in it.  My goal is to accurately report everything that I 
> know or believe about the car with enough pictures to hopefully cover all 
> angles.  I want the next buyer to be able to make an informed decision.  Yes, 
> I know that this is stupid since it will probably cost me the sale but I am 
> tired of being burned and this is the only way to break the cycle.  The 
> pictures are available at http://photos.yahoo.com/tssmith2002
> 
> The car is white; the paint is somewhat faded but is generally okay, 
> especially considering its age.  There is rust on one fender and but the 
> rubber covers over the bumpers still seem good.  It may appear to have rust 
> along the trunk lid but that is actually two leaves that I didn't't notice 
> until I was looking at the pictures.  I can take another picture if someone 
> wishes me to confirm that statement.  The doors are solid with the exception 
> of the trim of the passenger's door.  There is a picture with me placing my 
> finger in the gap that is sprung from the trim.
> 
> The interior is worn but still serviceable with the majority of the wear in 
> the driver's seat.  There is a tear or spilt seam in the middle of the back 
> seat that looks like it needs some attention.  I believe that the interior 
> pictures cover the interior pretty well.  If anyone needs a better picture or 
> can make a suggestion as to something that a buyer might want to see; please 
> feel free to ask me.
> 
> Good points:
> 
>   1)  Car runs and I have driven it over 300 miles at Interstate 
> speeds from Maryland to its current home in Charleston, West Virginia.
>   2)  Aftermarket radio plays pretty well with good reception.
>   3)  Climate control seems to work with the exception of A/C.
>   4)  Front windows work howbeit slowly.  The rear power windows do 
> not retract, PO says that switches are bad but motors are good.  (Motor 
> condition not verified)
>   5)  Rides pretty good for a car of its age.
>   6)  My personal belief is that the engine and transmission is good 
> but both need attention.
>   7)  It's a MB diesel and if it finds a good home then it should run 
> for a while longer.
>   8)   Tires are almost brand new and show very deep tread.
> 
> Bad points:
> 
>   1)  Serious vacuum issues:  Engine doesn't't cutoff, Automatic 
> Transmission shifts poorly, Door locks are inoperable, 

Just track down the vacuum leak, probably one of the door lock elements.
Cruise Control works but will not hold speed for long.

Needs new CC unit.

>   2)  Extremely poor acceleration:  This is my first diesel and first 
> MB, so this might be user error.  When at a light, I have to almost stand on 
> the accelerator to get it to crawl through a light.  It takes several car 
> lengths to accelerator to 20MPH and then it seems to run better.  It will 
> reach 70+ MPH but it doesn't't like to hold it.  Letting off the accelerator 
> seems to have a large drop in speed by 10-15MPH almost immediately.

Plugged ALDA line, and/or need to adjust boost and ALDA

>   3)  Power steering is inoperable.  PO indicates that power steering 
> pump leaks profusely and removed PS drive belt and pulley.  I have taken 
> pictures of belt and pulley and they are with the car but not installed.

I have plenty of pumps cheap

>   4)  Unknown mileage since odometer doesn't't work.  The Title says 
> 248K miles but the odometer says 238K and I have added ~400 miles on since I 
> have owned it.  I believe that the mileage on the Title is reasonably correct 
> but I have no way of verifying what the PO placed on the Title.

Oh well, easy to fix the odo

>   5)  Trunk lock has been drilled out by PO.

Stupid PO

>   6)   Since the engine doesn't cutoff, then the engine has to be killed 
> with the fuel cutoff switch on the IP.  The primary hood release has broken 
> off at the handle and protrudes through the ho

Re: [MBZ] W124 charging system fails, how far can you drive, lots....

[Loren Faeth]

That is correct, but I was talking theory, and with a relatively small 
current drain, as in running a diesel down the road with lights and all 
un-necessary electric consumers off.


Hitting the starter changes the underlying assumptions.  In practice, if 
you have 100 Amp hours, you might only get 70-80 hours of 1 amp draw due to 
operating losses.


In practice, a 100 Amp hour battery may only have 50-60 amp hours available.

At 11:50 AM 11/17/2005, you wrote:

That's not quite right. You probably have 50-60 hours of life at 1 amp.
When the battery gets much over 50% discharged, it probably won't have
enough juice to run the starter, and the lights will be noticeably dim.
The radio will probably run a lot longer, but not much else.

Ron Dwelle

On Nov 17, 2005, at 12:12 PM, Loren Faeth wrote:

  If your battery has 100 Amp hours available, and you can
draw only 1 amp, then you have 100 hours of lifemore or less


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Re: [MBZ] Kaleb's new ride

[Chuck Landenberger]

IIRC, it's not a GM diesel  Maybe International?

My '86 Ford F250 has a 6.9 International Diesel.

Chuck
Phoenix AZ

On Nov 17, 2005, at 11:03 AM, Sunil Hari wrote:


kleb, i h8 u.

seriously, are the 6.2 diesel engines any good? I remember at some  
point

that GM converted gas engines to diesel with poor success



On 11/17/05, Donald Snook <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Kaleb Wrote:



check out my new ride



http://www.striplin.net/90%20suburban/





I'll give you $500.





Donald H. Snook

McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn & Herrington, P.A.

300 West Douglas

P.O. Box 207

Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207

Tel. (316) 263-5851

This confidential message may be subject to the attorney-client
privilege or protected by the attorney work-product doctrine. If you
have recieved this message in error, please delete it and notify me.



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--
Sunil Hari
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474
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Re: [MBZ] idle insanity!

[Marshall Booth]

Christopher McCann wrote:
> 1. Rack damper bolt in too far - possible. As I  first noticed this probl=
em this summer when I had the old bolt replaced  with the new style. This s=
eems very likely.
>   =

>   2. Rack damper bolt out too far - well, this problem, (the revving idle=
) is new.
>   =

>   Another lister mentioned a "worn IP"...what would indicate a worn IP?
>   =

>   Someone also mentioned late timeing - but I think that creates smoke an=
d I never smoke.
>   =

>   Thanks
>   =

>   Chris

What color is the rack damper screw? If it's silver CHANGE it! See =

attachment!

Marshall
-- =

  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 =

turbo 237kmi
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117/32c60d28/61795RackDamp.jpg

Re: [MBZ] Cruise Control Question

[Marshall Booth]

Fred Johnson wrote:

Issue solved!!!

First time I've heard on this or any MB list, it was
the actuator!!

Haven't been able to take it apart but am guessing
that a solenoid or something along those lines is
going bad.

Replaced the amplifier with a known good amplifier and
had the same issue.  Replaced the actuator and the
cruise control will now hold the desired speed.


Actuator failure is mush less common than amplifier failure, but they DO 
fail. Usually it's from wear - not from age (corrosion or loose 
connections) as is the case with many amplifier problems. The ratio of 
amp to amplifier to actuator failures I've seen reported is at least 5:1 
(maybe almost 10:1).


Most DIYer actuator fixes don't last (while more than 50% of DIYer amp 
resolder jobs DO cure the problem and last). The rebuilders do a pretty 
good job I'm told (I've never needed to have an actuator repaired).


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] Kaleb's new ride

[Sunil Hari]

kleb, i h8 u.

seriously, are the 6.2 diesel engines any good? I remember at some point
that GM converted gas engines to diesel with poor success



On 11/17/05, Donald Snook <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Kaleb Wrote:
>
>
>
> check out my new ride
>
>
>
> http://www.striplin.net/90%20suburban/
>
>
>
>
>
> I'll give you $500.
>
>
>
>
>
> Donald H. Snook
>
> McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn & Herrington, P.A.
>
> 300 West Douglas
>
> P.O. Box 207
>
> Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207
>
> Tel. (316) 263-5851
>
> This confidential message may be subject to the attorney-client
> privilege or protected by the attorney work-product doctrine. If you
> have recieved this message in error, please delete it and notify me.
>
>
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>



--
Sunil Hari
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474

Re: [MBZ] Kaleb's new ride

[Chuck Landenberger]

Kaleb,

Siren still work

Chuck
On Nov 17, 2005, at 10:30 AM, Donald Snook wrote:


Kaleb Wrote:



check out my new ride



http://www.striplin.net/90%20suburban/





I'll give you $500.





Donald H. Snook

McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn & Herrington, P.A.

300 West Douglas

P.O. Box 207

Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207

Tel. (316) 263-5851

This confidential message may be subject to the attorney-client
privilege or protected by the attorney work-product doctrine. If you
have recieved this message in error, please delete it and notify me.



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Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG)

[Rich Thomas]

I think the accel part is a quick easy cheap fix -- the other guys have 
the adjustments for the ALDA thing.  If you have a leak in a vac line 
you can just plug it, see if the shutoff and brakes then work OK, if not 
the vac pump rebuild is not too expensive and fairly easy.  The PS pump 
-- see waht Kaleb will sell you one for, or he will buy the whole car 
for $500 and sell all the parts to others!


I know you say you have the $ situation, but it would be sad to let a 
decent car go for want of not too many $$ to get it sorted out OK. The 
age-old conundrum, alas.  Give a try on the cheap easy fixes then 
re-evaluate.


--R

Smith, Todd wrote:


Hello Rich,

Thank you for your response.  I really don't think that the car is in 
unreasonable condition but I had purchased it with the understanding that it 
was a daily driver since I was in the process of getting rid of my gas car.  
Unfortunately, the time and money for parts is at a premium right now.  I 
didn't expect perfect for $1500.00 but I did expect to be able to drive it and 
the acceleration problem is dangerous for where I live.

Todd Smith

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 10:15
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG)


Sounds like you need to invest a couple hundred $ in some used parts (PS 
pump and brake caliper, or a rebuild kit) and a vac pump rebuild kit, 
and a weekend of wrenching, and you would have an OK car.  The windows 
are easy to open up and clean/lube, as are the switches.


This is all stuff that is not unreasonable on a 20 yr old car.

--R

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Re: [MBZ] 124 Control Arm Bushings

[Marshall Booth]

John Peterson wrote:
I brought  my '91 300D 2.5 74k miles in to the dealer to diagnose a slight 
clunking sound in the front end over uneven pavement.  They say the noise is 
the control arm bushings, which sounds reasonable, but they say that they 
have to change the ball joints, that it is "all one piece".  Total price for 
job, $900 including 4 wheel alignment.  I didn't want to let them do the 
work until I had a second opinion.


Is this true that they have to change the ball joints along with the control 
arm bushings?  They said the ball joints had no play at all in them.


Including the ball joints along with replacing the control arms and 
bushing only does not add materially to the cost. Using the old ones 
would cost MORE!


Many independents replace just the bushings, but when labor costs get 
into the $100+/hour range, it's less expensive to replace the entire 
control arm (including bushing AND ball joint) that to replace the 
bushings in the old control arm and ALL of the parts are new and 
warranty issues almost vanish. The control arm with bushings and ball 
joint lists for less than $350 each while the repair kits cost about 
$100 per side and installing it, pulling the old ball joint and 
installing it (you MAY have to replace the ball joint boot - it often 
splits when the joint is removed or reinstalled) will probably take at 
least $250 worth of labor and you'll have a used ball joint. It takes a 
much more skilled mechanic to replace just the bushings as well and 
there are so very many more things that could go wrong. You MIGHT save 
$30-35 a side in parts cost by using the old ball joints, but the labor 
will eat that up and then some.


You might want to find an independent - and you might get an estimate of 
just a little more than 60-70% of what the dealer wants you to pay.


74kmi is VERY early for failing control arm bushings. Make darned sure 
it's not just sway bar bushings (that's maybe a $100 job - or even less) 
- they often fail before 100kmi and they clatter a bit when driving 
slowly over uneven surfaces.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] W124 charging system fails, how far can you drive, lots....

[Ron Dwelle]

That's not quite right. You probably have 50-60 hours of life at 1 amp. 
When the battery gets much over 50% discharged, it probably won't have 
enough juice to run the starter, and the lights will be noticeably dim. 
The radio will probably run a lot longer, but not much else.


Ron Dwelle

On Nov 17, 2005, at 12:12 PM, Loren Faeth wrote:

 If your battery has 100 Amp hours available, and you can
draw only 1 amp, then you have 100 hours of lifemore or less

Re: [MBZ] check out my new ride

[Rich Thomas]

Fine Corinthian wood grain interior too!

--R

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:


http://www.striplin.net/90%20suburban/
 

Re: [MBZ] The old toe flick

[Rich Thomas]

I had that same problem, the linkages on the lower side of the engine, 
below the air cleaner, connects from the throttle to the tranny (I 
forget what it is called) runs horizontally aft, came loose and was 
hanging full on (fun ride home that evening!).  Contorted myself and 
reattached and readjusted and lubed a threaded link (was in the manual 
somewhere) and it works fine now.  Took about 30 min, in the dark, 
though it was mostly a "by feel" job.  I think I had to use some tape on 
a stick or something to hold it in place so I could reattach the 
threaded end as I could not get my 3 hands in there.


--R

Tom Scordato wrote:

1977 300D Have an accelortor pedal or linkgage that is getting stuck in high 
fire.  Will trouble shoot soon .  Any suggestions besides the "toe flick" to 
release it?  Cheers Tom Scordato 




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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Shutoff Valve Replacement

[Luther Gulseth]

Oil (brake fluid) can get in through the vacuum brake booster

-Original Message-
From: Bob Rentfro <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Nov 17, 2005 12:28 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fuel Shutoff Valve Replacement

LT Don reassured me:

"If you can tug on the valve and feel resistance when it is being held on
 only by the MityVac, you're good to go."


So...help me review...
There are only two places oil can get into the vacuum system: the vacuum 
pump and the shut off valve, correct?

If I put the Mity Vac on the currently installed shut off valve, its hold 
vacuum all day long...now I'm kinda stumped.

Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 142K
Litchfield Park, AZ

 



Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (happily running diesel/WVO mix)
'82 300CD slate grey, black interior, 152,xxx mi

Re: [MBZ] Kaleb's new ride

[Donald Snook]

Kaleb Wrote: 

 

check out my new ride

 

http://www.striplin.net/90%20suburban/

 

 

I'll give you $500.  

 

 

Donald H. Snook

McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn & Herrington, P.A. 

300 West Douglas

P.O. Box 207

Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207

Tel. (316) 263-5851

This confidential message may be subject to the attorney-client
privilege or protected by the attorney work-product doctrine. If you
have recieved this message in error, please delete it and notify me.  

 

Re: [MBZ] Fuel Shutoff Valve Replacement

[Bob Rentfro]

No...it almost does...but not quite.
Cruise works well, HVAC is squirrely but it's always squirrely, no oil in 
the line from the vac pump to the air cleaner housing.

Brakes feel correct.

BR
- Original Message - 
From: "LT Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 10:31 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fuel Shutoff Valve Replacement



Is your car shutting off as it should?

On 11/17/05, Bob Rentfro <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


LT Don reassured me:

"If you can tug on the valve and feel resistance when it is being held on
only by the MityVac, you're good to go."


So...help me review...
There are only two places oil can get into the vacuum system: the vacuum
pump and the shut off valve, correct?

If I put the Mity Vac on the currently installed shut off valve, its hold
vacuum all day long...now I'm kinda stumped.

Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 142K
Litchfield Park, AZ




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--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Shutoff Valve Replacement

[LT Don]

Is your car shutting off as it should?

On 11/17/05, Bob Rentfro <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> LT Don reassured me:
>
> "If you can tug on the valve and feel resistance when it is being held on
> only by the MityVac, you're good to go."
>
>
> So...help me review...
> There are only two places oil can get into the vacuum system: the vacuum
> pump and the shut off valve, correct?
>
> If I put the Mity Vac on the currently installed shut off valve, its hold
> vacuum all day long...now I'm kinda stumped.
>
> Bob Rentfro
> '77 300D 142K
> Litchfield Park, AZ
>
>
>
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>



--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen

Re: [MBZ] Fuel Shutoff Valve Replacement

[Bob Rentfro]

LT Don reassured me:

"If you can tug on the valve and feel resistance when it is being held on
only by the MityVac, you're good to go."


So...help me review...
There are only two places oil can get into the vacuum system: the vacuum 
pump and the shut off valve, correct?


If I put the Mity Vac on the currently installed shut off valve, its hold 
vacuum all day long...now I'm kinda stumped.


Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 142K
Litchfield Park, AZ

[MBZ] The old toe flick

[Tom Scordato]

1977 300D Have an accelortor pedal or linkgage that is getting stuck in high 
fire.  Will trouble shoot soon .  Any suggestions besides the "toe flick" to 
release it?  Cheers Tom Scordato 

Re: [MBZ] W124 charging system fails, how far can you drive, lots....

[Loren Faeth]

I drove the 124 TD over 100 miles with the lights on, and still had 
battery.  On the return trip, I charged the battery before leaving, and 
drove back over 200 miles with the lights on for only 50 miles or 
so.  Still had enough battery to start at the end of both cases.


The true answer is How strong is your battery / how little current draw can 
you live with.  If your battery has 100 Amp hours available, and you can 
draw only 1 amp, then you have 100 hours of lifemore or less
Lights draw a lot of current.  Turn off all unnecessary current draws: 
radio, A/C, Heater fan etc.


At 09:18 AM 11/17/2005, you wrote:

I drove my turbodiesel vanagon from Chicago to Scranton, PA with no
alternator, even using the wipers and lights the last two hours.
Still had enough juice to roll start the next morning.

Dan

>Still it appears you  can run a w124 diesel a long way with faulty
>electrical system.
>
>
>John


--
Dan Weeks
82 VW Westfalia 1.6 TD conversion 182k
82 Mercedes 300SD, 275k

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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Shutoff Valve Replacement

[LT Don]

If you can tug on the valve and feel resistance when it is being held on
only by the MityVac, you're good to go.

On 11/17/05, Bob Rentfro <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I need a chicken
>
> Thanks Don.
>
> Bob Rentfro
> '77 300D 142
> Litchfield Park, AZ
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "LT Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 10:08 AM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fuel Shutoff Valve Replacement
>
>
> > Just did this a couple of months ago.
> >
> > 1. Remove old.
> >
> > 2. Install new, being careful to use washer(s) AND being careful to seat
> > the
> > hook end of the lever.
> >
> > 3. Hook up a MityVac to the shutoff valve and pump.
> >
> > 4. If the shutoff valve doesn't fall off, reinstall screws. If it does
> > fall
> > off, return to step 2.
> >
> > 5. Test repeatedly with MityVac. The more anal you are, the more times
> you
> > will test. When satisfied, replace vacuum line.
> >
> > 6. Position fire extinguisher at front of car, just in case.
> >
> > 7. Pray. Then pray again. At your option, sacrifice a live chicken.
> >
> > 8. Have a helper start the car while you hold the fire extinguisher,
> just
> > in
> > case.
> >
> > 9. When car doesn't go into runaway mode, shut eyes and say a silent
> > prayer.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On 11/17/05, Bob Rentfro <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >>
> >> Where in the shop manual is the replacement of the fuel shutoff valve
> >> addressed?
> >> I can't find it. I did this a LONG time ago ( probably was successful
> due
> >> to beginners luck) and I know it must be done just so or bad things
> >> happen.
> >>
> >> Thanks
> >>
> >> Bob Rentfro
> >> '77 300D 142K
> >> Litchfield Park, AZ
> >> ___
> >> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> >> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >>
> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > 1977 240D
> > 1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle
> >
> > http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
> > ___
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>
>
> ___
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>



--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen

Re: [MBZ] check out my new ride

[Kayoooh]

>From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [MBZ] check out my new ride
>
>http://www.striplin.net/90%20suburban/


Congratulations Kaleb, looks nice.

I have been looking for one myself for a while now!
Please tell me if there is more where that one came from.

Take care,

Omar.

Re: [MBZ] Fuel Shutoff Valve Replacement

[Bob Rentfro]

I need a chicken

Thanks Don.

Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 142
Litchfield Park, AZ

- Original Message - 
From: "LT Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 10:08 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fuel Shutoff Valve Replacement



Just did this a couple of months ago.

1. Remove old.

2. Install new, being careful to use washer(s) AND being careful to seat 
the

hook end of the lever.

3. Hook up a MityVac to the shutoff valve and pump.

4. If the shutoff valve doesn't fall off, reinstall screws. If it does 
fall

off, return to step 2.

5. Test repeatedly with MityVac. The more anal you are, the more times you
will test. When satisfied, replace vacuum line.

6. Position fire extinguisher at front of car, just in case.

7. Pray. Then pray again. At your option, sacrifice a live chicken.

8. Have a helper start the car while you hold the fire extinguisher, just 
in

case.

9. When car doesn't go into runaway mode, shut eyes and say a silent 
prayer.





On 11/17/05, Bob Rentfro <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Where in the shop manual is the replacement of the fuel shutoff valve
addressed?
I can't find it. I did this a LONG time ago ( probably was successful due
to beginners luck) and I know it must be done just so or bad things 
happen.


Thanks

Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 142K
Litchfield Park, AZ
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--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
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Re: [MBZ] Fuel Shutoff Valve Replacement

[LT Don]

Just did this a couple of months ago.

1. Remove old.

2. Install new, being careful to use washer(s) AND being careful to seat the
hook end of the lever.

3. Hook up a MityVac to the shutoff valve and pump.

4. If the shutoff valve doesn't fall off, reinstall screws. If it does fall
off, return to step 2.

5. Test repeatedly with MityVac. The more anal you are, the more times you
will test. When satisfied, replace vacuum line.

6. Position fire extinguisher at front of car, just in case.

7. Pray. Then pray again. At your option, sacrifice a live chicken.

8. Have a helper start the car while you hold the fire extinguisher, just in
case.

9. When car doesn't go into runaway mode, shut eyes and say a silent prayer.




On 11/17/05, Bob Rentfro <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Where in the shop manual is the replacement of the fuel shutoff valve
> addressed?
> I can't find it. I did this a LONG time ago ( probably was successful due
> to beginners luck) and I know it must be done just so or bad things happen.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob Rentfro
> '77 300D 142K
> Litchfield Park, AZ
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>



--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen

Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG)

[Smith, Todd]

Hello Kaleb,

Thank you for your response.  I agree that plumbing the vacuum lines would be 
make a big difference.  Are the door lock elements in the door itself or under 
the hood?

>Just track down the vacuum leak, probably one of the door lock elements.
>>Cruise Control works but will not hold speed for long.
>Needs new CC unit.

Is the CC unit a pricey component?  Of course, CC is low on the priority list 
right now but for future planning purposes.

>Plugged ALDA line, and/or need to adjust boost and ALDA

I have read about adjusting boost on the of the few articles still left on 
mbz.com page but I heard of people talking about ALDA but I don't know what 
that is?

>   6)  A clunking noise that is seems to emanate from the rear 
> passenger wheel.  It is noticeable at low speeds and seems to quiet down at 
> highway speed but it is always in the background.  I believe that this may be 
> a sticking brake since the brakes are very firm when pressed.  Dr. Booth in 
> answering a similar question that was posted recently suggested a possible 
> bad half-axle.

>Its the rear sway bar links.  ABout $15 each and takes about 3 minutes 
to replace.

That is good news to hear since I was afraid that it was the axle half-shaft or 
worse.

Thank you for your time

Todd Smith

Re: [MBZ] check out my new ride

[Bob Rentfro]

You can get a butt-load of parts in the back of that.

Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 142K
Litchfield Park, AZ

- Original Message - 
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Banned List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Mercedes mailing list" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 9:53 AM
Subject: [MBZ] check out my new ride



http://www.striplin.net/90%20suburban/
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

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[MBZ] check out my new ride

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

http://www.striplin.net/90%20suburban/
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

Re: [MBZ] idle insanity!

[Christopher McCann]

Thanks for the research. Sounds like all the  suggestions thus far were 
repeated there. Obviously not the first time  this problem has been presented 
to the list.
  
  Chris

redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Number 2 issue sounds like loping at idle. 
 Both are fuel 
delivery/timing issues.  Gump had them, but I can not remember what I 
did.

this is from the   2000 digest

--

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 15:48:28 -0500
From: Steve MacSween 
Subject: Re: [DIESEL] Loping idle on 300D

Larry Henderson wrote:
 >
 > Hey all,
 >
 > My '83 300D turbo diesel lopes at idle.  It only does
 > this when in drive or when the a/c is on (or both).  I
 > have loosened my injectors (to bleed air with the
 > engine running) and tried adjusting the screw on the
 > back of the injection pumper (right next to the piping
 > hot oil filter; pointing at the oil filter 14mm lock
 > screw and 12 mm adjusting screw).  This did not seem
 > to make a whole lot of difference.

 From disucssions on the Mercedes lists over the last couple of years, I
have gleaned the following:

1. The five-cylinder turbodiesels have a tendency to do this.
2. Some people manage to fix it by playing with the rack damper bolt
and/or upgrading to the one with the stronger spring.
3. Others (like me) do #2 once in a while, and live with it otherwise.

However, most people who talk about it say it's the reverse of your
situation: their cars do it idling in park but are okay in gear.

Have you checked your motor mounts? If one is shot, then when you put
the car in gear the engine may be torquing around a bit, and pulling on
the throttle linkage, which could cause similar behaviour.

Just a theory.

If the infamour rack damper bolt upgrade/adjustment fix does not work,
and the mounts are okay, then evidence seems to point to the injection
pump governor. This is not really fantastic news, so we don't like to go
there ;-(.

Regards,

steve
  ---
Sexton says   My opinion: it's a vacuum leak. Mine doesn't do this.

--

The updated damper screw will probably help to get most if not all of it
out. My 300SD did this and the bulk of it went away when I replaced the
damper screw with the updated version. Now it only seems to want to do 
it
under high temperatures, and inconsistently at that. . .

Dan Penoff

-

to which Sexton replies

Loping: increasing then decresing the idele speen in a rhythmic pattern
with a frequesnty of .1 to .25 cps.

Thats what I call loping anyway. This is what McSweens car does.

The rack damper bolt is to smooth out vibration at idle and
you a) get the new longer bolt and b) only do this once your
car is tuned to *perfection* or else it's wasted time.

--

Bill Jones adds

Have you checked the condition of your primer pump?  This little item 
caused havoc in Mike's 300TD.  Loss of power and air in the in-line 
fuel filter.

Thanks to Marshall and Dan, we corrected the problem.  It is a very 
simple and inexpensive cure.  The primer pump can be easily replaced 
with a crowfoot wrench.

Regards,
Bill


I think Gump had a fuel quality and temperature issue that made the 
stuff too thick to flow well, so the IP was not able to properly feed 
and would oscillate slow/fast trying to get it right.  Also would start 
and run to the end of the block, then quit when I brake.  Not warm 
enough?  The block heater made it all go away




On Tuesday, November 15, 2005, at 07:31 PM, Christopher McCann wrote:

> Two problems with the SD re: idle:
>
>  1. When engine is cold (not ambient brr cold, just room temp, but 
> worse when truly COLD) it idles fine BUT as soon as I put it in 
> reverse (or turn on the A/C in hot weather), the idle drops and the 
> car usually stalls. Will stall at about 450 RPM.
>
>  2. Let's say we start the car and no reverse or A/C is needed, the 
> idle is fine...we drive 1-3 miles. Come to a stop and the idle is 
> PULSATING between, say, 550-700 or so...just revving between those two 
> engine speeds, rhytmiically, on its own. I would say 1 complete rev 
> cycle per 1.5 seconds.
>
>  3. Drive it a bit more, get the engine hot and the rhythmic idle goes 
> away as does the reverse stall problem.
>
>  Took to my Indy today. He said, "Adjust Idle". OK. It was cold 
> (engine and 0 degrees C out), car starts, put in reverse, get halwayt 
> out of the parking spot - STALL. Drive a few miles to my friend's 
> house, park it and lo and behold, the rythmic idle rec described > above.
>
>  Obviously something other than idle adjust needs done. Is there some 
> GIZMO that controls idle when a load is put on (A/C, reverse (no 
> acceleration in reverse, just reverse and idle backwards (down hill - 
> still stalls!))) and/or would also cause the rhythmic idling?
>
>  Please help! Have had idle adjusted twice (with no effect) and I have 
> no idea what the problem is. Would like to get some list opinions to 
> take with me when I go back to my Indy tomorrow.
>
>  Than

Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG)

[Smith, Todd]

Hello Rich,

Thank you for your response.  I really don't think that the car is in 
unreasonable condition but I had purchased it with the understanding that it 
was a daily driver since I was in the process of getting rid of my gas car.  
Unfortunately, the time and money for parts is at a premium right now.  I 
didn't expect perfect for $1500.00 but I did expect to be able to drive it and 
the acceleration problem is dangerous for where I live.

Todd Smith

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 10:15
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] FS: 1985 300CD (LONG)


Sounds like you need to invest a couple hundred $ in some used parts (PS 
pump and brake caliper, or a rebuild kit) and a vac pump rebuild kit, 
and a weekend of wrenching, and you would have an OK car.  The windows 
are easy to open up and clean/lube, as are the switches.

This is all stuff that is not unreasonable on a 20 yr old car.

--R

Re: [MBZ] idle insanity!

[Christopher McCann]

Tom,
  
  Have the new primer pump. Will check rubber down stream of it.
  
  Thanks,
  
  Chris

tom savage <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Christopher McCann wrote:

>  Obviously something other than idle adjust needs done. Is there some  GIZMO 
> that controls idle when a load is put on (A/C, reverse (no  acceleration in 
> reverse, just reverse and idle backwards (down hill -  still stalls!))) 
> and/or would also cause the rhythmic idling?

I don't know about the existance of any gizmos (would an '85 have the 
newer (MW?) IP?), but I went through a similar situation with my '82 
300D a few years ago.  Turned out to be a leaking primer pump letting 
air into the fuel stream.  Only happened with a cold engine in cold 
ambient temps; it was fine when either warmed up a bit.  Next winter it 
did the same thing again, as a hose clamp had managed to wear a tiny 
hole in the short fuel line between the prefilter and the IP.

So if you've got the old style primer pump and it leaks when you use it, 
I'd call it highly suspect.  Ditto any old rubber downstream of the IP.

Hope this helps,
Tom
'82 300D valve body on kitchen table
'96 Passat TDI getting IP timing reset on Sunday

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-
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From: "Bob Rentfro" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Subject: [MBZ] Fuel Shutoff Valve Replacement
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Where in the shop manual is the replacement of the fuel shutoff valve =
addressed?=20
I can't find it. I did this a LONG time ago ( probably was successful =
due to beginners luck) and I know it must be done just so or bad things =
happen.

Thanks

Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 142K
Litchfield Park, AZ
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Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 08:39:14 -0800 (PST)
From: Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Re: [MBZ] idle insanity!

[Christopher McCann]

1. Idle speed is not too low - just now adjusted a bit high (to address this 
problem)...prolly around 800.
  2. what are other symptoms of late injection timing...don't you tend to get 
smoke? I never have smoke - ever.
  3. Timing chain is brand new
  4. rack positioner stop bolt - is that the same as the rack damper  bolt? If 
so, already had it replaced with the new one - know exactly  what you mean 
about THAT problem being worse hot than cold
  
  Thanks, Chris
  

Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Chris:

The two problems are separate.  Your idle speed is too low, the 
injection timing is late, or the pump is worn.  I would up the idle 
speed a bit (this isn't just turning a screw, alas), and would check 
the timing chain for "stretch" -- likely you have 6-8 degrees of 
"stretch" and the IP is late, making things worse.

The rough idle hot is partially cured by an adjustment of the rack 
positioner stop bolt.  If you don't have the new one, replace it (I've 
not done this, not having a 617 turbo).  The idle will smooth out as 
soon as you lift off the idle stop, and the problem is worse hot than 
cold.  ]

The issue is actually a weak spring for the fuel control rack, but you 
have to completely disassemble the IP to fix it -- it will get worse 
with time, and evetually may force you to get the pump worked on.

Peter


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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

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Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2005 08:30:46 -0800 (PST)
From: Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] idle insanity!
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1. Rack damper bolt in too far - possible. As I  first noticed this problem 
this summer when I had the old bolt replaced  with the new style. This seems 
very likely.
  
  2. Rack damper bolt out too far - well, this problem, (the revving idle) is 
new.
  
  Another lister mentioned a "worn IP"...what would indicate a worn IP?
  
  Someone also mentioned late timeing - but I think that creates smoke and I 
never smoke.
  
  Thanks
  
  Chris

John Robbins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Christopher McCann wrote:
> Two problems with the SD re: idle:
> 
> 1. When engine is cold (not ambient brr cold, just room temp, but
> worse when truly COLD) it idles fine BUT as soon as I put it in
> reverse (or turn on the A/C in hot weather), the idle drops and the
> car usually stalls. Will stall at about 450 RPM.

Could be that your rack dampner bolt is in too far.  If it is in too far 
it will restrict fuel too much during idle conditions...

> 2. Let's say we start the car and no reverse or A/C is needed, the
> idle is fine...we drive 1-3 miles. Come to a stop and the idle is
> PULSATING b

Re: [MBZ] Way OT: Anti-theft system problem on '99 Chevy Malibu

[JFreezn]

 
In a message dated 11/17/2005 7:58:04 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

1999  Chevy Malibu.  About one time out of every four that you try to 
start  it, it fails to start and the THEFT SYSTEM light in the instrument 
cluster  starts blinking.  The only solution is to wait about ten minutes 
for  the anti-theft system to reset.  After that it starts right up every  
time.  Anyone know how to fix this or, failing that, how to disable  the 
stupid anti-theft system?



Try the other key to eliminate the possible failing key.  You can  order a 
new key from your nearest GM dealer.  Not the keys, probably a bad  sensor loop 
around the key cylinder, or a failing wire in the steering  column.  
 
Good luck  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 261 K miles 
98 ML 320, 138 K  miles

Re: [MBZ] test

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

you failed as well.

Craig McCluskey wrote:


You know the drill ...

--- 
Craig McCluskey


Present: 1982 240D/3.0 (Euro 1984 617.912 engine, 4-speed) 222 kmi
   Past: 1964 190Dc
 1972 220D/8
 1972 220/8
 1987 190E/2.3

 /"\   
 \ /  ASCII RIBBON CAMPAIGN	  "Friends don't send friends

  X   AGAINST HTML MAIL   HTML email."
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  http://pruffle.mit.edu/~ccarter/I_do_not_use_microsoft.html

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Re: [MBZ] Test

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

you also failed

Vernon Ritchey wrote:

Scott Ritchey, Kittrell, NC
1982 300 SD 225K miles
1979 300 TD 355K miles
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Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

Re: [MBZ] Test

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

you failed

frederick w moir wrote:


Testicle? Testicle?



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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

Re: [MBZ] W124 charging system fails, how far can you drive, lots....

[John M McIntosh]

Voltage regulator, bad. Did not charge the battery. By observing the  
issues the few days before, this
happened over a few days and that morning glowing, heaters etc  
managed to suck the last amps out

of the battery.

PS funny thing is that last week when I was diagnosing my climate  
controls issues I had a volt meter
test on the voltage to various parts of the cc logic when idling and  
was thinking, gee the voltage seems low if the system

is suppose to be charging the battery, but warning bells didn't go off.


On 16-Nov-05, at 1:13 PM, John M McIntosh wrote:


For excitement this morning, got in w124 wagon, started up drove off
to highway, then notice heat seater lights blinking, heated rear
window switch blinking.


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Corporate Smalltalk Consulting Ltd.  http://www.smalltalkconsulting.com
 
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