[MBZ] W126 Tie rod assembly part numbers

[Trampas]

I ordered tie rod assemblies from Rusty awhile back and was getting ready to
put them on my 91 560SEL and noticed that the part numbers start with 107
and they are labeled for a 560SL. I was wondering if the W126 tie rod
assembly were the same as the W107?

Thanks
Trampas

Re: [MBZ] Injector life

[RELNGSON]

<>

My friend AC tells me that the first set of injectors in his Cummins powered 
KW tractor were replaced at 740,000 miles. Of course, this vehicle is either 
working or parked. No puttering over to Home Depot or the mall.

Buys his fuel in California.

He makes one trip weekly from Seattle to LA. Hauls fresh vegetables and fruit 
northbound in his 40 ft. refrigerated trailer.

RLE

Re: [MBZ] Hello again, and back to my 240d battle

[Peter Frederick]

There is no magic repair for a worn out cylinder -- if a ring is broken 
(or badly stuck, etc), the liner will by now be worn to the point the 
rings cannot reliably seal, resulting in no compression cold.  No 
amount of jacking around on it will do anything but increase the wear, 
your only real options are a replacement engine from the junkyard or a 
rebuild.


Peter

[MBZ] w126 SD transmisson control cable question

[Steve MacSween]

My reply to Scott's post about turbo boost brings me to another question:
the cable that runs from the linkage on top of the valve cover, down into
the transmission... is that for shift control, kickdown, or both?

TKS

-- 
Mac
'82 300sd
'82 240d (x2)
'60 220s

Re: [MBZ] Low Turbo Boost

[Steve MacSween]

on 5/15/06 7:03 PM, Scott Ritchey at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> 
> So the problem is intermittent.  I'll just have to get the problem to repeat
> and then troubleshoot some more.  Thanks for all the help.  Jim Cathey's
> comment about positive feedback is spot on.  You cannot test boost without
> load.  Think I'll leave my hose and gage in the back seat for the next time
> this happens.

Probably a dumb question, but are you sure you are getting transmission
cooperation when you want to accelerate?

I ask as my current SD was behaving somewhat the same way. However, I guess
I was so intent on swearing and stomping the pedal that I did not notice the
real culprit is that my transmission has a mind of its own on whether it
starts from a stop in first or second. Same for kickdown from 2 to 1 for low
speed power demands, and 3-2 is kinda iffy as well.

For now I just use the lever and live with it.

Cheers

-- 
Mac
'82 300sd
'82 240d (x2)
'60 220s

Re: [MBZ] Low Turbo Boost

[Scott Ritchey]

I think Jim Friesen's pressure cut-out switch was probably the correct
diagnosis but ...

I bypassed the crossover valve, connected a pressure gage, and did a road
test.  Plenty of boost (maybe too much, looked like 1 bar or more, so now I
wonder if the waste gate is functioning).  Then I reconnected the crossover
valve and disconnected the pressure switch.  Everything still worked fine,
plenty of boost.  So I reconnected the pressure switch and everything still
worked fine.  Rats.

So the problem is intermittent.  I'll just have to get the problem to repeat
and then troubleshoot some more.  Thanks for all the help.  Jim Cathey's
comment about positive feedback is spot on.  You cannot test boost without
load.  Think I'll leave my hose and gage in the back seat for the next time
this happens.

Scott Ritchey
Kittrell NC
1982 300SD 220K
1979 300TD 350K



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 2:12 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Low Turbo Boost



In a message dated 5/11/2006 9:55:52 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

My 82  300SD (Garret turbo) suddenly lost turbo boost last weekend. The
banjo
fitting id not plugged and the circuit to the ALDA is not  leaking.
Measuring the manifold pressure, I get almost no boost until  3-4,000 rpm
and
then I get about 6 psi max.  I don't see any obvious  leaks in the intake or
exhaust and I can hear the turbo turning.

Any  guesses on probable cause?  I'm wondering if the waste gate is  somehow
suck open.  I have noticed jerky boost at high power settings  (boost cuts
in
and out near max power) in the past so I'm wondering if the  waste gate may
be sticking.  And If it is a sticky waste gate ...  what's the cure?




Scott,

#!. Look for loose nuts that hold the exhaust manifold to the head, much
pressure can be lost here.

#2  Disconnect the single wire going to the pressure sensor on the  intake
manifold.  It sounds like it may be defective and is cutting off  your boost
signal way too soon.  You can drive it like that for testing  purposes.

#3.  Run the boost sense line direct from the banjo to the ALDA,  teeing
into
it right at the ALDA to verify the boost signal is getting to the  ALDA.

#4.  Remove the U shaped pipe from the filter to the turbo so you can  reach
in and give the nose of the turbo a spin with your fingers.  It won't  spin
much but should feel free, with no roughness.  Wiggle the shaft side  to
side to
see if you can make the impeller touch the housing.  Some play  is
acceptable.  Look for FOD, foreign object damage,  on the parts of  the
impeller you can
see.

#5.  If all looks good, adjust the screw on the top of the ALDA about  1 1/2
turns CCW to add more fuel, which will add more boost, which will add more
fuel, etc.

#6.  Get back to the list with your findings.

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles
98 ML 320, 142 K  miles

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Re: [MBZ] Hello again, and back to my 240d battle

[Steve MacSween]

on 5/15/06 6:24 PM, John Berryman at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> 
> On May 15, 2006, at 12:05 PM, Steve MacSween wrote:
> 
>> I am a stubborn bastid. I saw that car run ok and drove it. I don't
>> want to
>> give up.
> 
> So don't give up. How far are you willing to go? Piston/liner?
> Rings? You may have already spent a good portion of the parts money
> on snake oil.
> 
> Johnny B.
> I Mac Therefore I am

LoL, yes I know, I between the snake oil and the oil change, over $100.

Biggest challenge is a clean place to work, but I am looking into that.

Piston and ring would be my limit. Liner would mean pulling the block and at
that point I'd just look for a used motor.

Mac

Re: [MBZ] Hello again, and back to my 240d battle

[Mike Canfield]

Bet it drives like a new car other than the engine.  AMAZING how solid that 
car is for the mileage.  I guess I probably don't need to make a road trip 
for a car right now.It would have to be a twin to yours if I did.  That 
color combo is perfect for the 123 chassis. I really don't like the lighter 
colors.


Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "Steve MacSween" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 4:58 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hello again, and back to my 240d battle


LoL, well believe it or not, the guy who dragged the 240d back here for 
me,
I THINK now has a fairly straight/intact 123 with a bad motor, probably 
was

a 300d.

He might part with it. Want me to ask?

Hilarious car exchange we may have going here

I really liked driving the dark blue car (man that sunroof feels HUGE) so 
my

inclination is to keep it, as in any case I have probably $700 into it by
now, mostly stuff to pass inspection

Mac

on 5/15/06 4:51 PM, Mike Canfield at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Hey Mac...If you decide you want to give up on the ole girl let me
know.I might buy it back from you.Found a 76 240D 4spd with 65K
miles and a very rusted body that would make a good donor with some
tinkering.

Mike
- Original Message -
From: "Steve MacSween" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 12:05 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Hello again, and back to my 240d battle



Hey, everyone, I sort of dropped off the face of the earth but now I'm
back Nice to 'see' you all again (huh?).

Okay, way back months ago I was talking about the 240d I picked up from
Mike, and the fact that I sorta lost one cylinder without warning, one
morning (excuse the rhyme). Number 1 cylinder showed 15 lbs compression,
but
came way up when I squirted in some oil. This thing as 300k on it, so it
does not owe anyone a whole lot. But it ran great last fall when I was
driving it, albeit was smoking a  bit and using oil.

When the weather cleared I put in a lot of time on it. Adjusted the 
valves

and tried every snake-oil remedy I could think of, hoping I had a stuck
ring, maybe carbon buildup. Yeah I was reaching.

In any case, I eventually had it running on about half a crankcase full 
of

Marvel Mystery oil, with Marvel in the fuel as well. Turned the idle up
way
high and literally ran it for days on end, trying to see if I could lose
the
smaking and hard miss.

And lo and behold it was just about back after about 3 days. If you left
it
on high idle, after an hour or so the exhaust cleared up and it ran 
smooth
with just the odd pop-pop-pop (soft miss). HOWEVER, if you took it out 
on
the road, tho it would perform okay and not smoke while driving, once 
you

came back to idle the hard miss was back for about 20 minutes.

So then I changed the oil and had to park it for a week. Came back, and 
it
was back to square #1. Smokes WORSE than it ever did, now is hard to 
start

(started great before I did that oil change and parked it). DOH.

Took it to a reliable, old-time German independent. He says ring has 
come
unseated, forget it, no T-shirt, put a fork in it, etc. Says it's now 
zero

compression on #1. He can't believe I was driving it.

I am a stubborn bastid. I saw that car run ok and drove it. I don't want
to
give up.

I want to tow it back to my storage lot and try a 1/2 oil 1/2 varsol 
"oil

change" as one last shot. Maybe let some Pepsi soak down there too.

THoughts? TIA

--
Mac
'82 300sd
'82 240d (x2)
'60 220s



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Re: [MBZ] this car was run on diesel secret, see where its at

[Hendrik Riessen]

Yeah I always suspected that the Doctor has twenty arms and three heads to 
keep up with all the lists he (or should that be "it") populates.
Well at least our alien friend brought us advanced oil technology in the 
form of mobil 1.
So tell us Marshall (if that is your real name) how hard is it to convert a 
201 into an intergalactic cruiser. 190D my bottom, more like an advanced 
hyper drive under the bonnet and ray guns in the fenders.


Hendrik
who has not been probed by aliens.yet

- Original Message - 
From: "Marshall Booth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 11:13 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] this car was run on diesel secret, see where its at



Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-S-Class-Biofuel-Run-300-SDL-turbodiesel-BIOFUEL-PROVEN_W0QQitemZ4640221695QQcategoryZ6336QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


...and I was born on the planet Pluto!

Marshall

--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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Re: [MBZ] 300D Turbo Problem

[Marshall Booth]

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Marshall wrote:your engine is more complex. If your

engine senses that the EGR is NOT working as it should, it defeats all
fuel enrichment the ALDA might >>>


Marshall,
2 Questions - First - how do I check the EGR?

Next, I've tested 0-60 and it comes in around 13-14 sec.  But other times, 
it seems slower.  Haven't timed it but it really feels slow - but not all 
the time.  It seems the fastest 1st thing in the morning - foot to the 
floor, kick into 1st and the turbo roars, shifts to 2nd and the turbo roars 
again.  Later as it warms, the roar of the turbo is not as noticeable nor is 
the acceleration as noticable.  Sometimes the turbo really pushes me back in 
the seat.  Other times it accelerates great - compared to my 240D - but not 
as great as it does those times in the morning.


Also, (3rd?) ;-) The startup problem I have that occurs when it's below 40 
has started to happen when it's damp and the car is 1st started. Then, for 
maybe 100yds it runs like it's on 3 cylinders - then Zoom! it runs great. 
If the EGR is working intermittantly perhaps it's causing that?  We've put 
4000 highway miles on it at 55-75 and the problem is much less severe, so 
maybe it's the coke in the head and around the GPs you suggested before?  Or 
could the EGR have something to do with that?


May as well, ask one more - what's the purpose of the EGR?  I know it stands 
for Exhaust Gas Recirculation - but isn't all exhaust gas exited thru the 
exhaust?  Recirculated where?


Start with what you can MEASURE. What you sense may result from how the 
car behaves or just a easily from how you feel. Concentrate on what you 
CAN measure.


EGR takes exhaust gas and sends it back into the air intake to reduce 
the nitrogen/oxygen content of the ingested air so that combustion 
temperatures will be lowered and the generation of oxides of nitrogen 
(NOx) will be reduced. This is only supposed to occur after the engine 
fully warms up and when the engine is running at partial throttle and at 
engine speeds between about 1200-2400 rpm (the actual engine speed 
varies from engine to engine and I haven't memorized them all, but that 
the general range).


Any way, all of the sensors that feed to the EDS (electronic diesel 
system) must provide correct information (engine temp, air temp, air 
quantity, engine speed, accelerator pedal position, etc.) and translate 
that into appropriate signals to the EGR valve that open or close it. If 
the signals aren't PERFECT or the actuator doesn't work flawlessly, 
exhaust gases will be in the wrong place at the wrong time and that will 
reduce power. So the EGR valve must work properly, open when it's 
supposed to and close COMPLETELY when it's supposed to. That can of 
course be checked (application and release of vacuum from a MityVac to 
the EGR allows you to see if it opens and closes).


Another concern about EGR is that it increases particulate emissions 
(soot) in the exhaust and may (especially in an engine running 
conventional oil and being driven largely in a typical city cycle - 
group IV oils like M-1 or Amsoil don't seem to do this) coat the intake 
manifold with soot/oil contaminate that CAN block the pressure line to 
the ALDA and result in erratic or no fuel enrichment. In earlier 
diesels, that could be corrected by defeating the EGR, but starting in 
the late '80s, the EPA required that when EGR failure was sensed, the 
engine power must be reduced.


It's all covered (not particularly clearly) in sections 7.1-010 and 
7.1-1120 in the 602/603 engine manual and on the CD.


The EGR isn't likely to be involved in starting problems. Starting 
problems ALMOST always involve fuel supply or the preglow system. Allow 
the plugs to glow for 10+ seconds AFTER the dash light goes out and see 
if that corrects the rough running at startup.


Reversed vacuum lines going to and from the ignition switch CAN result 
in poor power some of the time. The line that goes from the switch to 
the shutoff valve on the injection pump MUST be vented when the engine 
is staring/running and the line from the vacuum pump must be plugged 
when the engine is running. If they are reversed, the engine may not get 
full fuel supply. Often shutting the engine down and restarting will 
seem to "cure" the problem. The ONLY cure is to correctly install the 
lines to the correct ports on the switch.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] Hello again, and back to my 240d battle

[John Berryman]

On May 15, 2006, at 12:05 PM, Steve MacSween wrote:

I am a stubborn bastid. I saw that car run ok and drove it. I don't  
want to

give up.


	So don't give up. How far are you willing to go? Piston/liner?  
Rings? You may have already spent a good portion of the parts money  
on snake oil.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] 300D Turbo Problem

[Jim Cathey]

May as well, ask one more - what's the purpose of the EGR?  I know it 
stands
for Exhaust Gas Recirculation - but isn't all exhaust gas exited thru 
the

exhaust?  Recirculated where?


To the intake manifold.  It's an emission thing, by replacing some 
oxygen

in the intake stream with carbon mon-/di-oxide, combustion is slowed
down and nitrous oxides are reduced.  That works peachy perfect, but
unfortunately there is also soot in the exhaust, and that, in 
combination

with oil in the intake manifold makes for a sooty caked-on mess that
can ultimately (under non-Italian conditions) make the engine run
worse, causing IMHO more pollution than it's supposed to cure.  The
EGR is only supposed to operate at partial throttle settings, maybe
while warm.  Many of us find that it never operates, imagine that!

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Fuel Injector Life

[Chuck Landenberger]

FWIW, My 1980 300SD (348,000 miles) has original FI''s (and FI Pump)  
that show no symptoms of needing any attention.  Not driving her a  
lot since I got the 16V, but do exercise her every week or so


Largely highway miles and quite a few track miles also.

Take care,

Chuck
Phoenix AZ
On May 15, 2006, at 1:41 PM, Marshall Booth wrote:


Loren Faeth wrote:
I assume you are talking about your diesel.  Even on OM 621  
engines, the
injector nozzles would last 150-200k miles.  On my 603, I replaced  
the
nozzles at 300k, on principle, not because I could prove they were  
bad.  I

would guess you should look for 300-500K on yours, based on better
machining and better metallurgy than 30 years ago.

The 240D had about 220k on the clock when i put new nozzles in when i
rebuilt the engine.  Those nozzles were tested and were bad.   
Kinda low
miles if the odometer was accurate.  My guess is that the car had  
more
miles, but who knows?  It may have racked up 150 k running short  
hops in
Dallas and never left town.  On the diesel injector, only the  
nozzle is
replaced, and it is shimmed to pressure spec.  The nozzle holder  
can stay,
as it has no bearing on the performance of the nozzle.  Rusty  
sells rebuilt
injector assemblies, so you send in your old ones, holder and  
all.  That is

what I did on the 603.  Unless one is nailing and does not clear, you
probably don't need to worry until you  hit 250-300k, then get  
them tested.


At 01:35 PM 5/15/2006, you wrote:

How long do FI's last before they need to be cleaned?


There is NO set period nor can you set up one that makes any sense.  
They

need to be cleaned/serviced when the engine no longer idles smoothly.
That may only be a few 10s of thousands of miles in a city driven  
car or
could be well over 200kmi in a largely highway driven car. When the  
car

tells you - THEN it's time to clean the fuel system/injectors.

As to the life of injectors (or really injector nozzles) it's rare for
them to need to be replaced more often then every 150-200kmi and many
last MUCH longer - IF the engine is serviced as it should be and if
complaints are addressed as they occur..

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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Re: [MBZ] 300D Turbo Problem

[l02turner]

Marshall wrote:your engine is more complex. If your

engine senses that the EGR is NOT working as it should, it defeats all
fuel enrichment the ALDA might >>>


Marshall,
2 Questions - First - how do I check the EGR?

Next, I've tested 0-60 and it comes in around 13-14 sec.  But other times, 
it seems slower.  Haven't timed it but it really feels slow - but not all 
the time.  It seems the fastest 1st thing in the morning - foot to the 
floor, kick into 1st and the turbo roars, shifts to 2nd and the turbo roars 
again.  Later as it warms, the roar of the turbo is not as noticable nor is 
the acceleration as noticable.  Sometimes the turbo really pushes me back in 
the seat.  Other times it accelerates great - compared to my 240D - but not 
as great as it does those times in the morning.


Also, (3rd?) ;-) The startup problem I have that occurs when it's below 40 
has started to happen when it's damp and the car is 1st started. Then, for 
maybe 100yds it runs like it's on 3 cylinders - then Zoom! it runs great. 
If the EGR is working intermittantly perhaps it's causing that?  We've put 
4000 highway miles on it at 55-75 and the problem is much less severe, so 
maybe it's the coke in the head and around the GPs you suggested before?  Or 
could the EGR have something to do with that?


May as well, ask one more - what's the purpose of the EGR?  I know it stands 
for Exhaust Gas Recirculation - but isn't all exhaust gas exited thru the 
exhaust?  Recirculated where?


Thanks as always -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Marshall Booth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 4:30 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300D Turbo Problem



[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Marshall wrote (on the MBCA Forum) <(not vacuum) line clogs with a soot and oil residue at the junction with 
the
intake manifold. This is particularly common in cars with EGR and that 
have

been largely city driven for moderately short distances. The clog is most
often located at the banjo bolt fromthe line to the intake manifold, but 
may

also be within the pressure line or the lumen of the switchover valve.>>>

Marshall,
Is this description of an 87 300D similar to what I should look at on 
my
91 300D.  I'd like to confirm the line you described is clean on my 91 
300D

and your description seems very precise, i.e. the Pressure line clogs.


All of the same issues apply, but your engine is more complex. If your
engine senses that the EGR is NOT working as it should, it defeats all
fuel enrichment the ALDA might request and the engine reverts to the
power of a naturally aspirated 602 engine (~90 vs 120 hp when the
turbo/EGR/ALDA are working as they should).

When everything is correct the 0-62 mph acceleration should be ABOUT 13
sec and if the ALDA/turbo/EGR system is misbehaving the acceleration
could be expected to drop to at least 16 sec and maybe a bit more than 
that.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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Re: [MBZ] CARFAX , Please

[Chuck Landenberger]

David,

Thanks...

Chuck
On May 15, 2006, at 1:47 PM, David Brodbeck wrote:


Chuck Landenberger wrote:

Hi,

Anyone have a CARFAX account...???

1992 500E - VIN WDBEA36E5NB694959



CARFAX Vehicle History Report1992 MERCEDES-BENZ 500E
 WDBEA36E5NB694959
 SEDAN 4 DR
  5.0L V8 EFI / REAR WHEEL DRIVE
 CARFAX Safety & Reliability Report

  CARFAX Vehicle History - At A Glance
 *  4 billion vehicle history events checked from public and  
private

sources
 *   Qualifies - CARFAX Buyback Guarantee
  *  Last reported mileage - 163,282 miles


Title Problems   No Problem
  Fire/ Flood | Hail Damage | Buyback | Lemon  No Problem
  Not Actual Mileage | Exceeds Mechanical LimitsNo Problem
  GUARANTEED - None of these major title problems were reported by a
state Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV). If you find that any of  
these

title problems were reported by a DMV and not included in this report,
CARFAX will buy this vehicle back.

Other Information   Other Information
 Not all accidents or other issues are reported to CARFAX
Summary
  Frame Damage Check

No frame damage reported to CARFAX.
  No Issues Reported
  Airbag Deployment Check

No airbag deployment reported to CARFAX.

No Issues Reported
  Odometer Rollback Check

No indication of an odometer rollback.

No Issues Indicated
  Accident Check

No accidents reported to CARFAX.

No Issues Reported
  Manufacturer Recall Check

 No recalls still require repair.

No Recalls Reported

No data reported to CARFAX.


No Data Reported
  Tell us what you know about this vehicle


Details

A CARFAX Vehicle History Report is based only on information  
supplied to

CARFAX. CARFAX checked over 4 billion vehicle history events and found
12 record(s)  for this 1992 MERCEDES-BENZ 500E (WDBEA36E5NB694959).
  Date:  Mileage:  Source:  Comments:
   04/24/1992   California Motor Vehicle Dept.  Title  
issued

or updated
   02/22/1995  27,837  California Inspection Station  
Sacramento,

CA  Passed emissions inspection
   04/14/1997  59,327  California Inspection Station  
Sacramento,

CA  Passed emissions inspection
   03/25/1999  80,373  California Inspection Station  
Sacramento,

CA  Passed emissions inspection
   04/06/2000   California Motor Vehicle Dept. Sacramento,
CA  Title issued or updated
   04/05/2001  100,848  California Inspection Station
Passed emissions inspection
   04/01/2003  120,071  California Inspection Station
Sacramento, CA  Passed emissions inspection
   10/15/2003   Service Facility  Vehicle serviced
   04/15/2004  127,710  California Inspection Station
Passed emissions inspection
   05/01/2004   California Motor Vehicle Dept. Brentwood,
CA  Title issued or updated New owner reported
   04/25/2006  163,282  California Inspection Station
Passed emissions inspection
   05/15/2006   Mercedes-Benz USA, Inc.  No recalls  
open for

repair


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Re: [MBZ] Hello again, and back to my 240d battle

[Steve MacSween]

LoL, well believe it or not, the guy who dragged the 240d back here for me,
I THINK now has a fairly straight/intact 123 with a bad motor, probably was
a 300d.

He might part with it. Want me to ask?

Hilarious car exchange we may have going here

I really liked driving the dark blue car (man that sunroof feels HUGE) so my
inclination is to keep it, as in any case I have probably $700 into it by
now, mostly stuff to pass inspection

Mac

on 5/15/06 4:51 PM, Mike Canfield at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Hey Mac...If you decide you want to give up on the ole girl let me
> know.I might buy it back from you.Found a 76 240D 4spd with 65K
> miles and a very rusted body that would make a good donor with some
> tinkering.
> 
> Mike
> - Original Message -
> From: "Steve MacSween" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 12:05 PM
> Subject: [MBZ] Hello again, and back to my 240d battle
> 
> 
>> Hey, everyone, I sort of dropped off the face of the earth but now I'm
>> back Nice to 'see' you all again (huh?).
>> 
>> Okay, way back months ago I was talking about the 240d I picked up from
>> Mike, and the fact that I sorta lost one cylinder without warning, one
>> morning (excuse the rhyme). Number 1 cylinder showed 15 lbs compression,
>> but
>> came way up when I squirted in some oil. This thing as 300k on it, so it
>> does not owe anyone a whole lot. But it ran great last fall when I was
>> driving it, albeit was smoking a  bit and using oil.
>> 
>> When the weather cleared I put in a lot of time on it. Adjusted the valves
>> and tried every snake-oil remedy I could think of, hoping I had a stuck
>> ring, maybe carbon buildup. Yeah I was reaching.
>> 
>> In any case, I eventually had it running on about half a crankcase full of
>> Marvel Mystery oil, with Marvel in the fuel as well. Turned the idle up
>> way
>> high and literally ran it for days on end, trying to see if I could lose
>> the
>> smaking and hard miss.
>> 
>> And lo and behold it was just about back after about 3 days. If you left
>> it
>> on high idle, after an hour or so the exhaust cleared up and it ran smooth
>> with just the odd pop-pop-pop (soft miss). HOWEVER, if you took it out on
>> the road, tho it would perform okay and not smoke while driving, once you
>> came back to idle the hard miss was back for about 20 minutes.
>> 
>> So then I changed the oil and had to park it for a week. Came back, and it
>> was back to square #1. Smokes WORSE than it ever did, now is hard to start
>> (started great before I did that oil change and parked it). DOH.
>> 
>> Took it to a reliable, old-time German independent. He says ring has come
>> unseated, forget it, no T-shirt, put a fork in it, etc. Says it's now zero
>> compression on #1. He can't believe I was driving it.
>> 
>> I am a stubborn bastid. I saw that car run ok and drove it. I don't want
>> to
>> give up.
>> 
>> I want to tow it back to my storage lot and try a 1/2 oil 1/2 varsol "oil
>> change" as one last shot. Maybe let some Pepsi soak down there too.
>> 
>> THoughts? TIA
>> 
>> -- 
>> Mac
>> '82 300sd
>> '82 240d (x2)
>> '60 220s
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.striplin.net
>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 
> 
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] Hello again, and back to my 240d battle

[Steve MacSween]

Yeah, well you are dealing with Mr. Obstinate here... Mike sold me the car
as a parts car, but I was so impressed with the shape it was in, I went
ahead and put money into it to get it inspected and onto the road, and I
drove it for a few months.

Pigheaded or not, however, I learned what little I know about these cars
from guys on the lists who have over and over told me that it's damn hard to
kill these motors. Over and over I have heard advice to get the car set up
right, then DRIVE DRIVE DRIVE it until it works right again. So I am loathe
to throw in the towel on this one.

As much as I respect this older wrench who is saying one cylinder is done, I
also respect the guys (like Todd Knutson, if he's still here) who have
persisted and got 'dead' engines going again. Actually, I did it myself
twice, once with a 300sd pronounced to have a bad pump, also with an older
gas Volvo with a straight six that smoked as bad as this diesel, when I got
it.

The only catch here is that, if the ring is unseated, I guess I risk making
a complete mess of the cylinder wall.

Cheerio

Mac



on 5/15/06 4:28 PM, kevin kraly at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> What a battle you've been having with that car!  It sounds like I may be
> dealing with a cylinder on my 1981 300CD that has low compression.  I want
> the opposite thing to happen, higher compression, better idle, easier
> starting, etc.  The temp is WY up in the 90's here, so she should fire
> up on her own (usually needs a slight boost of WD40/starter fluid to get
> going).
> 
> Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
> 1981 300CD 204K miles, Giesela
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] Hello again, and back to my 240d battle

[Mike Canfield]

Hey Mac...If you decide you want to give up on the ole girl let me 
know.I might buy it back from you.Found a 76 240D 4spd with 65K 
miles and a very rusted body that would make a good donor with some 
tinkering.


Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "Steve MacSween" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 12:05 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Hello again, and back to my 240d battle



Hey, everyone, I sort of dropped off the face of the earth but now I'm
back Nice to 'see' you all again (huh?).

Okay, way back months ago I was talking about the 240d I picked up from
Mike, and the fact that I sorta lost one cylinder without warning, one
morning (excuse the rhyme). Number 1 cylinder showed 15 lbs compression, 
but

came way up when I squirted in some oil. This thing as 300k on it, so it
does not owe anyone a whole lot. But it ran great last fall when I was
driving it, albeit was smoking a  bit and using oil.

When the weather cleared I put in a lot of time on it. Adjusted the valves
and tried every snake-oil remedy I could think of, hoping I had a stuck
ring, maybe carbon buildup. Yeah I was reaching.

In any case, I eventually had it running on about half a crankcase full of
Marvel Mystery oil, with Marvel in the fuel as well. Turned the idle up 
way
high and literally ran it for days on end, trying to see if I could lose 
the

smaking and hard miss.

And lo and behold it was just about back after about 3 days. If you left 
it

on high idle, after an hour or so the exhaust cleared up and it ran smooth
with just the odd pop-pop-pop (soft miss). HOWEVER, if you took it out on
the road, tho it would perform okay and not smoke while driving, once you
came back to idle the hard miss was back for about 20 minutes.

So then I changed the oil and had to park it for a week. Came back, and it
was back to square #1. Smokes WORSE than it ever did, now is hard to start
(started great before I did that oil change and parked it). DOH.

Took it to a reliable, old-time German independent. He says ring has come
unseated, forget it, no T-shirt, put a fork in it, etc. Says it's now zero
compression on #1. He can't believe I was driving it.

I am a stubborn bastid. I saw that car run ok and drove it. I don't want 
to

give up.

I want to tow it back to my storage lot and try a 1/2 oil 1/2 varsol "oil
change" as one last shot. Maybe let some Pepsi soak down there too.

THoughts? TIA

--
Mac
'82 300sd
'82 240d (x2)
'60 220s



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Re: [MBZ] Adjusting ALDA

[l02turner]

Thanks David -
that's *exactly* what I needed to hear about.

I believe my ALDA needs adjusting and wanted to know which was the easiest. 
Marshall mentioned I should adjust it shortly after I described some 
symptoms I was having.  I'm finally getting around to it.


Thanks again --

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "David Brodbeck" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 3:18 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Adjusting ALDA



[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I've seen 2 methods for adjusting the ALDA - turning the set screw .5 to 
1.5

turns or adding a shim.

Is there a preferred method?  Why is one better than the other?
I need to adjust it and want to use the best method - I also plan to 
check

the pressure hose and and banjo fitting.



Adjusting the screw is easier. Adding a shim does not require removing
the anti-tamper cap. I've never heard of anyone having problems with an
emissions check station noticing the missing cap, but I imagine it could
happen.  Adding a shim is also helpful if you need more adjustment than
the screw can provide. There is no defined end stop but cranking it too
far will damage the ALDA.


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Re: [MBZ] CARFAX , Please

[David Brodbeck]

Chuck Landenberger wrote:

Hi,

Anyone have a CARFAX account...???

1992 500E - VIN WDBEA36E5NB694959
  


CARFAX Vehicle History Report1992 MERCEDES-BENZ 500E
WDBEA36E5NB694959
SEDAN 4 DR
 5.0L V8 EFI / REAR WHEEL DRIVE
CARFAX Safety & Reliability Report

 CARFAX Vehicle History - At A Glance
*  4 billion vehicle history events checked from public and private 
sources

*   Qualifies - CARFAX Buyback Guarantee
 *  Last reported mileage - 163,282 miles


Title Problems   No Problem
 Fire/ Flood | Hail Damage | Buyback | Lemon  No Problem
 Not Actual Mileage | Exceeds Mechanical LimitsNo Problem
 GUARANTEED - None of these major title problems were reported by a 
state Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV). If you find that any of these 
title problems were reported by a DMV and not included in this report, 
CARFAX will buy this vehicle back.


Other Information   Other Information
Not all accidents or other issues are reported to CARFAX
Summary  
 Frame Damage Check


No frame damage reported to CARFAX.
 No Issues Reported
 Airbag Deployment Check

No airbag deployment reported to CARFAX.
 
No Issues Reported

 Odometer Rollback Check

No indication of an odometer rollback.
 
No Issues Indicated

 Accident Check

No accidents reported to CARFAX.
 
No Issues Reported

 Manufacturer Recall Check

No recalls still require repair.
 
No Recalls Reported


No data reported to CARFAX.

 
No Data Reported

 Tell us what you know about this vehicle


Details

A CARFAX Vehicle History Report is based only on information supplied to 
CARFAX. CARFAX checked over 4 billion vehicle history events and found 
12 record(s)  for this 1992 MERCEDES-BENZ 500E (WDBEA36E5NB694959).

 Date:  Mileage:  Source:  Comments:
  04/24/1992   California Motor Vehicle Dept.  Title issued 
or updated
  02/22/1995  27,837  California Inspection Station Sacramento, 
CA  Passed emissions inspection
  04/14/1997  59,327  California Inspection Station Sacramento, 
CA  Passed emissions inspection
  03/25/1999  80,373  California Inspection Station Sacramento, 
CA  Passed emissions inspection
  04/06/2000   California Motor Vehicle Dept. Sacramento, 
CA  Title issued or updated
  04/05/2001  100,848  California Inspection Station  
Passed emissions inspection
  04/01/2003  120,071  California Inspection Station 
Sacramento, CA  Passed emissions inspection
  10/15/2003   Service Facility  Vehicle serviced
  04/15/2004  127,710  California Inspection Station  
Passed emissions inspection
  05/01/2004   California Motor Vehicle Dept. Brentwood, 
CA  Title issued or updated New owner reported
  04/25/2006  163,282  California Inspection Station  
Passed emissions inspection
  05/15/2006   Mercedes-Benz USA, Inc.  No recalls open for 
repair

Re: [MBZ] Fuel Injector Life

[Marshall Booth]

Loren Faeth wrote:
I assume you are talking about your diesel.  Even on OM 621 engines, the 
injector nozzles would last 150-200k miles.  On my 603, I replaced the 
nozzles at 300k, on principle, not because I could prove they were bad.  I 
would guess you should look for 300-500K on yours, based on better 
machining and better metallurgy than 30 years ago.


The 240D had about 220k on the clock when i put new nozzles in when i 
rebuilt the engine.  Those nozzles were tested and were bad.  Kinda low 
miles if the odometer was accurate.  My guess is that the car had more 
miles, but who knows?  It may have racked up 150 k running short hops in 
Dallas and never left town.  On the diesel injector, only the nozzle is 
replaced, and it is shimmed to pressure spec.  The nozzle holder can stay, 
as it has no bearing on the performance of the nozzle.  Rusty sells rebuilt 
injector assemblies, so you send in your old ones, holder and all.  That is 
what I did on the 603.  Unless one is nailing and does not clear, you 
probably don't need to worry until you  hit 250-300k, then get them tested.


At 01:35 PM 5/15/2006, you wrote:

How long do FI's last before they need to be cleaned?


There is NO set period nor can you set up one that makes any sense. They 
need to be cleaned/serviced when the engine no longer idles smoothly. 
That may only be a few 10s of thousands of miles in a city driven car or 
could be well over 200kmi in a largely highway driven car. When the car 
tells you - THEN it's time to clean the fuel system/injectors.


As to the life of injectors (or really injector nozzles) it's rare for 
them to need to be replaced more often then every 150-200kmi and many 
last MUCH longer - IF the engine is serviced as it should be and if 
complaints are addressed as they occur..


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] Adjusting ALDA

[Marshall Booth]

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I've seen 2 methods for adjusting the ALDA - turning the set screw .5 to =
1.5 =

> turns or adding a shim.
> =

> Is there a preferred method?  Why is one better than the other?
> I need to adjust it and want to use the best method - I also plan to chec=
k =

> the pressure hose and and banjo fitting.
> =

> Thanks - BTW, I hope to use the ALDA removal method shown at =

> http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_injection/ where the intake =

> manifold is left in place.

There is NO really "correct" way as Mercedes discourages any adjustment =

in the field. Still they finally did publish a description in the late =

'80s/early 90s (attached) and that might be considered "preferred."

It CAN be done on an OM602.96 engine without pulling off the intake =

manifold (it just looks impossible).

The screw adjustment (as outlined) is MUCH easier and minor adjustments =

a quick and easy. Establishing the correct shim thickness is more of a =

challenge.

Marshall
-- =

  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 =

190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
-- next part --
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515/aba8eab3/ALDA_adj.pdf

Re: [MBZ] 300D Turbo Problem

[Marshall Booth]

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Marshall wrote (on the MBCA Forum) <(not vacuum) line clogs with a soot and oil residue at the junction with the 
intake manifold. This is particularly common in cars with EGR and that have 
been largely city driven for moderately short distances. The clog is most 
often located at the banjo bolt fromthe line to the intake manifold, but may 
also be within the pressure line or the lumen of the switchover valve.>>>


Marshall,
Is this description of an 87 300D similar to what I should look at on my 
91 300D.  I'd like to confirm the line you described is clean on my 91 300D 
and your description seems very precise, i.e. the Pressure line clogs.


All of the same issues apply, but your engine is more complex. If your 
engine senses that the EGR is NOT working as it should, it defeats all 
fuel enrichment the ALDA might request and the engine reverts to the 
power of a naturally aspirated 602 engine (~90 vs 120 hp when the 
turbo/EGR/ALDA are working as they should).


When everything is correct the 0-62 mph acceleration should be ABOUT 13 
sec and if the ALDA/turbo/EGR system is misbehaving the acceleration 
could be expected to drop to at least 16 sec and maybe a bit more than that.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] Hello again, and back to my 240d battle

[kevin kraly]

What a battle you've been having with that car!  It sounds like I may be 
dealing with a cylinder on my 1981 300CD that has low compression.  I want 
the opposite thing to happen, higher compression, better idle, easier 
starting, etc.  The temp is WY up in the 90's here, so she should fire 
up on her own (usually needs a slight boost of WD40/starter fluid to get 
going).


Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
1981 300CD 204K miles, Giesela 

Re: [MBZ] Fuel Injector Life

[Steve MacSween]

on 5/15/06 3:41 PM, archer at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> I'm wondering if  this is likely an injector problem or a
> compression problem?  If it's likely compression, I'll just live with it
> until I have more time.

In my experience, it isn't that unusual to have a lumpy idle, when you've
returned to regular traffic after running at highway speeds, particularly in
hot weather. Two of my three SDs have done that.

Now if you mean a real, dead miss (engine shakes BAD), then I strongly
suggest you pull the injectors and do a compression test. Cleaning the
injectors helps to ensure long engine life anyway, and the squeeze test will
give you a better indicaton if you have any cylinder issues.

Either way, cleaning the injectors isn't a bad idea.

-- 
Mac
'82 300sd
'82 240d (x2)
'60 220s

Re: [MBZ] Fuel Injector Life

[archer]

My '83 300D with 250K miles will miss on one cylinder while idling at a stop 
light occasionally after driving at highway speeds.  By the time I get home, 
while driving more slowly, it's idling OK again.  The car doesn't miss while 
driving.  I've never did anything to the injectors durng the last six years, 
and the previous owner had no receipts showing anything was done to the 
injectors.I'm wondering if  this is likely an injector problem or a 
compression problem?  If it's likely compression, I'll just live with it 
until I have more time.


Thanks,
Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D

- Original Message - 
From: "Loren Faeth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 3:10 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fuel Injector Life



I assume you are talking about your diesel.  Even on OM 621 engines, the
injector nozzles would last 150-200k miles.  On my 603, I replaced the
nozzles at 300k, on principle, not because I could prove they were bad.  I
would guess you should look for 300-500K on yours, based on better
machining and better metallurgy than 30 years ago.

The 240D had about 220k on the clock when i put new nozzles in when i
rebuilt the engine.  Those nozzles were tested and were bad.  Kinda low
miles if the odometer was accurate.  My guess is that the car had more
miles, but who knows?  It may have racked up 150 k running short hops in
Dallas and never left town.  On the diesel injector, only the nozzle is
replaced, and it is shimmed to pressure spec.  The nozzle holder can stay,
as it has no bearing on the performance of the nozzle.  Rusty sells 
rebuilt
injector assemblies, so you send in your old ones, holder and all.  That 
is

what I did on the 603.  Unless one is nailing and does not clear, you
probably don't need to worry until you  hit 250-300k, then get them 
tested.


At 01:35 PM 5/15/2006, you wrote:

How long do FI's last before they need to be cleaned?

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)

Re: [MBZ] Adjusting ALDA

[David Brodbeck]

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I've seen 2 methods for adjusting the ALDA - turning the set screw .5 to 1.5 
turns or adding a shim.


Is there a preferred method?  Why is one better than the other?
I need to adjust it and want to use the best method - I also plan to check 
the pressure hose and and banjo fitting.
  


Adjusting the screw is easier. Adding a shim does not require removing 
the anti-tamper cap. I've never heard of anyone having problems with an 
emissions check station noticing the missing cap, but I imagine it could 
happen.  Adding a shim is also helpful if you need more adjustment than 
the screw can provide. There is no defined end stop but cranking it too 
far will damage the ALDA.

Re: [MBZ] Fuel Injector Life

[Loren Faeth]

I assume you are talking about your diesel.  Even on OM 621 engines, the 
injector nozzles would last 150-200k miles.  On my 603, I replaced the 
nozzles at 300k, on principle, not because I could prove they were bad.  I 
would guess you should look for 300-500K on yours, based on better 
machining and better metallurgy than 30 years ago.


The 240D had about 220k on the clock when i put new nozzles in when i 
rebuilt the engine.  Those nozzles were tested and were bad.  Kinda low 
miles if the odometer was accurate.  My guess is that the car had more 
miles, but who knows?  It may have racked up 150 k running short hops in 
Dallas and never left town.  On the diesel injector, only the nozzle is 
replaced, and it is shimmed to pressure spec.  The nozzle holder can stay, 
as it has no bearing on the performance of the nozzle.  Rusty sells rebuilt 
injector assemblies, so you send in your old ones, holder and all.  That is 
what I did on the 603.  Unless one is nailing and does not clear, you 
probably don't need to worry until you  hit 250-300k, then get them tested.


At 01:35 PM 5/15/2006, you wrote:

How long do FI's last before they need to be cleaned?

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info


___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[MBZ] Fuel Injector Life

[l02turner]

How long do FI's last before they need to be cleaned?

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info

Re: [MBZ] Hello again, and back to my 240d battle

[Steve MacSween]

LoL, yes, duuude, that was my point (guess you didn't read my entire reply).

Mac

on 5/15/06 2:13 PM, andrew strasfogel at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Why not simply replace the engine with a good used one?  Wouldn't that be
> the cheaper option?
> 
> 
> On 5/15/06, Steve MacSween <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> 
>> Good advice, but in my experience over the years the problems is, that
>> once
>> you get the head off things start to multiply like wabbits. The car has
>> 300k
>> miles, so there's really no point in not having the head re-conditioned
>> once
>> it's out... then while we're at it, what about the leaking seals... and so
>> on.
>> 
>> Once you start whipping it back into shape, it starts to look much the
>> same
>> as getting a rusty parts car and exchanging engines.
>> 
>> I was willing to deal with the other defects of this high miles engine, as
>> it is, but I just don't see what starts as a quick fix, ending up that
>> way.
>> 
>> Someone by all means persuade me to the other side. It's just that I've
>> BTDT
>> in similar circumstances on other cars and I'm very, very loathe to pull
>> the
>> head for anything but a head gasket job.
>> 
>> Cheers
>> 
>> Mac
>> 
>> on 5/15/06 1:32 PM, Richard Hattaway at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>> 
>>> 
>>> Steve,
>>> 
>>> You can pull the head, pull the lower pan, ream #1 cyl ridge ring, pop
>>> out #1 and repair the ring/replace the piston/whatever, and put it back
>>> in w/o taking the engine out of the car.
>>> 
>>> More than likely the sleeve is within spec, and you can fix the car for
>>> very few bux.  Rings are cheap.  Ring and piston is somewhere around
>>> $100 as I recall.
>>> 
>>> Now #4 is a bit more difficult (c:
>>> 
>>> Richard
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> --- Steve MacSween <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>> 
 Hey, everyone, I sort of dropped off the face of the earth but now
 I'm
 back Nice to 'see' you all again (huh?).
 
 Okay, way back months ago I was talking about the 240d I picked up
 from
 Mike, and the fact that I sorta lost one cylinder without warning,
 one
 morning (excuse the rhyme). Number 1 cylinder showed 15 lbs
 compression, but
 came way up when I squirted in some oil. This thing as 300k on it, so
 it
 does not owe anyone a whole lot. But it ran great last fall when I
 was
 driving it, albeit was smoking a  bit and using oil.
 
 When the weather cleared I put in a lot of time on it. Adjusted the
 valves
 and tried every snake-oil remedy I could think of, hoping I had a
 stuck
 ring, maybe carbon buildup. Yeah I was reaching.
 
 In any case, I eventually had it running on about half a crankcase
 full of
 Marvel Mystery oil, with Marvel in the fuel as well. Turned the idle
 up way
 high and literally ran it for days on end, trying to see if I could
 lose the
 smaking and hard miss.
 
 And lo and behold it was just about back after about 3 days. If you
 left it
 on high idle, after an hour or so the exhaust cleared up and it ran
 smooth
 with just the odd pop-pop-pop (soft miss). HOWEVER, if you took it
 out on
 the road, tho it would perform okay and not smoke while driving, once
 you
 came back to idle the hard miss was back for about 20 minutes.
 
 So then I changed the oil and had to park it for a week. Came back,
 and it
 was back to square #1. Smokes WORSE than it ever did, now is hard to
 start
 (started great before I did that oil change and parked it). DOH.
 
 Took it to a reliable, old-time German independent. He says ring has
 come
 unseated, forget it, no T-shirt, put a fork in it, etc. Says it's now
 zero
 compression on #1. He can't believe I was driving it.
 
 I am a stubborn bastid. I saw that car run ok and drove it. I don't
 want to
 give up.
 
 I want to tow it back to my storage lot and try a 1/2 oil 1/2 varsol
 "oil
 change" as one last shot. Maybe let some Pepsi soak down there too.
 
 THoughts? TIA
 
 --
 Mac
 '82 300sd
 '82 240d (x2)
 '60 220s
 
 
 
 ___
 http://www.striplin.net
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> __
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>>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>> 
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_stri

[MBZ] Adjusting ALDA

[l02turner]

I've seen 2 methods for adjusting the ALDA - turning the set screw .5 to 1.5 
turns or adding a shim.


Is there a preferred method?  Why is one better than the other?
I need to adjust it and want to use the best method - I also plan to check 
the pressure hose and and banjo fitting.


Thanks - BTW, I hope to use the ALDA removal method shown at 
http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_injection/ where the intake 
manifold is left in place.


Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info 

[MBZ] 300D Turbo Problem

[l02turner]

Marshall wrote (on the MBCA Forum) <(not vacuum) line clogs with a soot and oil residue at the junction with the 
intake manifold. This is particularly common in cars with EGR and that have 
been largely city driven for moderately short distances. The clog is most 
often located at the banjo bolt fromthe line to the intake manifold, but may 
also be within the pressure line or the lumen of the switchover valve.>>>


Marshall,
   Is this description of an 87 300D similar to what I should look at on my 
91 300D.  I'd like to confirm the line you described is clean on my 91 300D 
and your description seems very precise, i.e. the Pressure line clogs.


Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info 

Re: [MBZ] Hello again, and back to my 240d battle

[andrew strasfogel]

Why not simply replace the engine with a good used one?  Wouldn't that be
the cheaper option?


On 5/15/06, Steve MacSween <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Good advice, but in my experience over the years the problems is, that
once
you get the head off things start to multiply like wabbits. The car has
300k
miles, so there's really no point in not having the head re-conditioned
once
it's out... then while we're at it, what about the leaking seals... and so
on.

Once you start whipping it back into shape, it starts to look much the
same
as getting a rusty parts car and exchanging engines.

I was willing to deal with the other defects of this high miles engine, as
it is, but I just don't see what starts as a quick fix, ending up that
way.

Someone by all means persuade me to the other side. It's just that I've
BTDT
in similar circumstances on other cars and I'm very, very loathe to pull
the
head for anything but a head gasket job.

Cheers

Mac

on 5/15/06 1:32 PM, Richard Hattaway at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

>
> Steve,
>
> You can pull the head, pull the lower pan, ream #1 cyl ridge ring, pop
> out #1 and repair the ring/replace the piston/whatever, and put it back
> in w/o taking the engine out of the car.
>
> More than likely the sleeve is within spec, and you can fix the car for
> very few bux.  Rings are cheap.  Ring and piston is somewhere around
> $100 as I recall.
>
> Now #4 is a bit more difficult (c:
>
> Richard
>
>
>
> --- Steve MacSween <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> Hey, everyone, I sort of dropped off the face of the earth but now
>> I'm
>> back Nice to 'see' you all again (huh?).
>>
>> Okay, way back months ago I was talking about the 240d I picked up
>> from
>> Mike, and the fact that I sorta lost one cylinder without warning,
>> one
>> morning (excuse the rhyme). Number 1 cylinder showed 15 lbs
>> compression, but
>> came way up when I squirted in some oil. This thing as 300k on it, so
>> it
>> does not owe anyone a whole lot. But it ran great last fall when I
>> was
>> driving it, albeit was smoking a  bit and using oil.
>>
>> When the weather cleared I put in a lot of time on it. Adjusted the
>> valves
>> and tried every snake-oil remedy I could think of, hoping I had a
>> stuck
>> ring, maybe carbon buildup. Yeah I was reaching.
>>
>> In any case, I eventually had it running on about half a crankcase
>> full of
>> Marvel Mystery oil, with Marvel in the fuel as well. Turned the idle
>> up way
>> high and literally ran it for days on end, trying to see if I could
>> lose the
>> smaking and hard miss.
>>
>> And lo and behold it was just about back after about 3 days. If you
>> left it
>> on high idle, after an hour or so the exhaust cleared up and it ran
>> smooth
>> with just the odd pop-pop-pop (soft miss). HOWEVER, if you took it
>> out on
>> the road, tho it would perform okay and not smoke while driving, once
>> you
>> came back to idle the hard miss was back for about 20 minutes.
>>
>> So then I changed the oil and had to park it for a week. Came back,
>> and it
>> was back to square #1. Smokes WORSE than it ever did, now is hard to
>> start
>> (started great before I did that oil change and parked it). DOH.
>>
>> Took it to a reliable, old-time German independent. He says ring has
>> come
>> unseated, forget it, no T-shirt, put a fork in it, etc. Says it's now
>> zero
>> compression on #1. He can't believe I was driving it.
>>
>> I am a stubborn bastid. I saw that car run ok and drove it. I don't
>> want to
>> give up.
>>
>> I want to tow it back to my storage lot and try a 1/2 oil 1/2 varsol
>> "oil
>> change" as one last shot. Maybe let some Pepsi soak down there too.
>>
>> THoughts? TIA
>>
>> --
>> Mac
>> '82 300sd
>> '82 240d (x2)
>> '60 220s
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.striplin.net
>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>>
>
>
> __
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> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> ___
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> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] Hello again, and back to my 240d battle

[Steve MacSween]

Good advice, but in my experience over the years the problems is, that once
you get the head off things start to multiply like wabbits. The car has 300k
miles, so there's really no point in not having the head re-conditioned once
it's out... then while we're at it, what about the leaking seals... and so
on.

Once you start whipping it back into shape, it starts to look much the same
as getting a rusty parts car and exchanging engines.

I was willing to deal with the other defects of this high miles engine, as
it is, but I just don't see what starts as a quick fix, ending up that way.

Someone by all means persuade me to the other side. It's just that I've BTDT
in similar circumstances on other cars and I'm very, very loathe to pull the
head for anything but a head gasket job.

Cheers

Mac

on 5/15/06 1:32 PM, Richard Hattaway at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> 
> Steve,
> 
> You can pull the head, pull the lower pan, ream #1 cyl ridge ring, pop
> out #1 and repair the ring/replace the piston/whatever, and put it back
> in w/o taking the engine out of the car.
> 
> More than likely the sleeve is within spec, and you can fix the car for
> very few bux.  Rings are cheap.  Ring and piston is somewhere around
> $100 as I recall.
> 
> Now #4 is a bit more difficult (c:
> 
> Richard
> 
> 
> 
> --- Steve MacSween <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
>> Hey, everyone, I sort of dropped off the face of the earth but now
>> I'm
>> back Nice to 'see' you all again (huh?).
>> 
>> Okay, way back months ago I was talking about the 240d I picked up
>> from
>> Mike, and the fact that I sorta lost one cylinder without warning,
>> one
>> morning (excuse the rhyme). Number 1 cylinder showed 15 lbs
>> compression, but
>> came way up when I squirted in some oil. This thing as 300k on it, so
>> it
>> does not owe anyone a whole lot. But it ran great last fall when I
>> was
>> driving it, albeit was smoking a  bit and using oil.
>> 
>> When the weather cleared I put in a lot of time on it. Adjusted the
>> valves
>> and tried every snake-oil remedy I could think of, hoping I had a
>> stuck
>> ring, maybe carbon buildup. Yeah I was reaching.
>> 
>> In any case, I eventually had it running on about half a crankcase
>> full of
>> Marvel Mystery oil, with Marvel in the fuel as well. Turned the idle
>> up way
>> high and literally ran it for days on end, trying to see if I could
>> lose the
>> smaking and hard miss.
>> 
>> And lo and behold it was just about back after about 3 days. If you
>> left it
>> on high idle, after an hour or so the exhaust cleared up and it ran
>> smooth
>> with just the odd pop-pop-pop (soft miss). HOWEVER, if you took it
>> out on
>> the road, tho it would perform okay and not smoke while driving, once
>> you
>> came back to idle the hard miss was back for about 20 minutes.
>> 
>> So then I changed the oil and had to park it for a week. Came back,
>> and it
>> was back to square #1. Smokes WORSE than it ever did, now is hard to
>> start
>> (started great before I did that oil change and parked it). DOH.
>> 
>> Took it to a reliable, old-time German independent. He says ring has
>> come
>> unseated, forget it, no T-shirt, put a fork in it, etc. Says it's now
>> zero
>> compression on #1. He can't believe I was driving it.
>> 
>> I am a stubborn bastid. I saw that car run ok and drove it. I don't
>> want to
>> give up.
>> 
>> I want to tow it back to my storage lot and try a 1/2 oil 1/2 varsol
>> "oil
>> change" as one last shot. Maybe let some Pepsi soak down there too.
>> 
>> THoughts? TIA
>> 
>> -- 
>> Mac
>> '82 300sd
>> '82 240d (x2)
>> '60 220s
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.striplin.net
>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>> 
> 
> 
> __
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
> 
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] Gullwing at Twighlight

[George Gregory]

On 5/15/06 12:26 PM, "Dennis Perkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> A Bob Sirna owns the car and I was a little dissapointed that more of the
> technical side of the car was shown.  Does anyone know of this car and tell
> us about it?

http://www.szwedo.com/gullwing.htm

http://www.szwedo.com/autoweek-gullwing.htm

-- 
+-- 
GG
1997 SL500 (104k)
http://homepage.mac.com/deneals/SL500.htm
http://homepage.mac.com/deneals
+--

Re: [MBZ] Hello again, and back to my 240d battle

[Richard Hattaway]

Steve,

You can pull the head, pull the lower pan, ream #1 cyl ridge ring, pop
out #1 and repair the ring/replace the piston/whatever, and put it back
in w/o taking the engine out of the car.

More than likely the sleeve is within spec, and you can fix the car for
very few bux.  Rings are cheap.  Ring and piston is somewhere around
$100 as I recall.

Now #4 is a bit more difficult (c:

Richard



--- Steve MacSween <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Hey, everyone, I sort of dropped off the face of the earth but now
> I'm
> back Nice to 'see' you all again (huh?).
> 
> Okay, way back months ago I was talking about the 240d I picked up
> from
> Mike, and the fact that I sorta lost one cylinder without warning,
> one
> morning (excuse the rhyme). Number 1 cylinder showed 15 lbs
> compression, but
> came way up when I squirted in some oil. This thing as 300k on it, so
> it
> does not owe anyone a whole lot. But it ran great last fall when I
> was
> driving it, albeit was smoking a  bit and using oil.
> 
> When the weather cleared I put in a lot of time on it. Adjusted the
> valves
> and tried every snake-oil remedy I could think of, hoping I had a
> stuck
> ring, maybe carbon buildup. Yeah I was reaching.
> 
> In any case, I eventually had it running on about half a crankcase
> full of
> Marvel Mystery oil, with Marvel in the fuel as well. Turned the idle
> up way
> high and literally ran it for days on end, trying to see if I could
> lose the
> smaking and hard miss.
> 
> And lo and behold it was just about back after about 3 days. If you
> left it
> on high idle, after an hour or so the exhaust cleared up and it ran
> smooth
> with just the odd pop-pop-pop (soft miss). HOWEVER, if you took it
> out on
> the road, tho it would perform okay and not smoke while driving, once
> you
> came back to idle the hard miss was back for about 20 minutes.
> 
> So then I changed the oil and had to park it for a week. Came back,
> and it
> was back to square #1. Smokes WORSE than it ever did, now is hard to
> start
> (started great before I did that oil change and parked it). DOH.
> 
> Took it to a reliable, old-time German independent. He says ring has
> come
> unseated, forget it, no T-shirt, put a fork in it, etc. Says it's now
> zero
> compression on #1. He can't believe I was driving it.
> 
> I am a stubborn bastid. I saw that car run ok and drove it. I don't
> want to
> give up.
> 
> I want to tow it back to my storage lot and try a 1/2 oil 1/2 varsol
> "oil
> change" as one last shot. Maybe let some Pepsi soak down there too.
> 
> THoughts? TIA
> 
> -- 
> Mac
> '82 300sd
> '82 240d (x2)
> '60 220s
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 


__
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[MBZ] Gullwing at Twighlight

[Dennis Perkins]

I just saw a program called "Gullwing at Twighlight.  It was about an 87 
year old driver by the name of John Fitch who drives a highly modified 300 
SL gullwing a the Bonneville Salt flats.  The photography was beautiful and 
it was shown in HD, so for you people that have that capability I would 
highly recommend watching the program.  Heck, watch it anyway.


A Bob Sirna owns the car and I was a little dissapointed that more of the 
technical side of the car was shown.  Does anyone know of this car and tell 
us about it?


Dennis Perkins
84 300SD 

[MBZ] Hello again, and back to my 240d battle

[Steve MacSween]

Hey, everyone, I sort of dropped off the face of the earth but now I'm
back Nice to 'see' you all again (huh?).

Okay, way back months ago I was talking about the 240d I picked up from
Mike, and the fact that I sorta lost one cylinder without warning, one
morning (excuse the rhyme). Number 1 cylinder showed 15 lbs compression, but
came way up when I squirted in some oil. This thing as 300k on it, so it
does not owe anyone a whole lot. But it ran great last fall when I was
driving it, albeit was smoking a  bit and using oil.

When the weather cleared I put in a lot of time on it. Adjusted the valves
and tried every snake-oil remedy I could think of, hoping I had a stuck
ring, maybe carbon buildup. Yeah I was reaching.

In any case, I eventually had it running on about half a crankcase full of
Marvel Mystery oil, with Marvel in the fuel as well. Turned the idle up way
high and literally ran it for days on end, trying to see if I could lose the
smaking and hard miss.

And lo and behold it was just about back after about 3 days. If you left it
on high idle, after an hour or so the exhaust cleared up and it ran smooth
with just the odd pop-pop-pop (soft miss). HOWEVER, if you took it out on
the road, tho it would perform okay and not smoke while driving, once you
came back to idle the hard miss was back for about 20 minutes.

So then I changed the oil and had to park it for a week. Came back, and it
was back to square #1. Smokes WORSE than it ever did, now is hard to start
(started great before I did that oil change and parked it). DOH.

Took it to a reliable, old-time German independent. He says ring has come
unseated, forget it, no T-shirt, put a fork in it, etc. Says it's now zero
compression on #1. He can't believe I was driving it.

I am a stubborn bastid. I saw that car run ok and drove it. I don't want to
give up.

I want to tow it back to my storage lot and try a 1/2 oil 1/2 varsol "oil
change" as one last shot. Maybe let some Pepsi soak down there too.

THoughts? TIA

-- 
Mac
'82 300sd
'82 240d (x2)
'60 220s

[MBZ] CARFAX , Please

[Chuck Landenberger]

Hi,

Anyone have a CARFAX account...???

1992 500E - VIN WDBEA36E5NB694959

TIA,

Take care,

Chuck
Phoenix AZ

[MBZ] [Fwd: 1982 300 CD Specifications]

[Darrell W. Sigmon]

 Original Message 
Subject: 1982 300 CD Specifications
Date: Mon, 15 May 2006 11:21:35 -0400
From: Darrell W. Sigmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Frank, in looking over the Technical Specifications on page 57,May/June
2006 issue, 1982 300 CD I noticed that the Valves Per Cylinder states it
has FOUR (4)!!!  HOW DID THEY DO THAT ???/
Inquiring minds want to know...

Darrell W. Sigmon
Hickory NC 28601

Re: [MBZ] 126 Seat pad

[Rusty Cullens]

Will do.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zeitgeist
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 2:34 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 Seat pad

Rusty should really begin advertizing some of the other products and
services he offers outside of the WorldPac stuff, even if there is no
way to utilize the web interface to sell them.  It pays to advertize.

On 5/8/06, Luther Gulseth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Rusty can get anything for your beloved Benzcall him and give him
the chance to find it.

Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (214k)
'84 300D (212k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)

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Re: [MBZ] 126 Seat pad

[Rusty Cullens]

You need to call, not all we carry is on the web site. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of BillR
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 11:30 AM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 Seat pad

I know.  I checked there first.  I could find nothing on the site and a
search turned up nothing.
BillR 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Rick Knoble
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 11:23 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 Seat pad

> @$65, but they also want $100 for the pad.  I think I have seen them 
> on eBay
> for @$50.  Any other sources for these?   I think the $65 labor charge
> sounds more than fair, but not as sure about the $100 for the pad.
> Thoughts?
Yeah,
 Check out Rusty.
http://www.buymbparts.com/

You know... one of the list sponsors.

Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT

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Re: [MBZ] '91 300D purchase inspection

[Rich Thomas]

Lung cancer, heart disease, and clogged arteries.  Drive it like ya 
stole it and it will cure it.  Pour some old oil or tranny fluid in it 
when you go for a test drive to get it really belching smoke, then offer 
them $500 for it...


--R

Luther Gulseth wrote:


I'm going to look at a '91 300D that smokes.  What things should I look for on 
this car before making an offer?  It has 235kmi, clean body, no rust or dents 
(just parking lot dings) and the interior is clean and everything works.  
Suggestions welcome.  TIA all.



 

Re: [MBZ] this car was run on diesel secret, see where its at

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Yea, I will resend that private message.

Luther Gulseth wrote:


Private email?

~I too sent him a message saying the head was most likely cracked, not 
~counting the damaged caused by the diesel secret.  Now respond to your 
~private email.

~





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] '87 190D blinker and blower problems

[Marshall Booth]

Daniel Konow wrote:
Thanks list, my blower problem is gone after disconnecting the aux water pump. 
  But the more important problem remains: blinker non op. I switched the hasard switch a couple of times and the blinker worked this morning. Then this afternoon no more. switched a zillion times but still not working (left and right) at all. 
  Wonder if a new switch would do the trick?

  Thanks
  Daniel 


Zoltan Finks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  Anytime I can actually add some information rather than requesting it, I do:
I can attest that the cycling the hazard switch works. It cured my blinker
problem.

Brian
83 240D

Daniel and Jim wrote:

Then sometimes, only the right side works and the

left not at all - and right now nothing works - no blinker what so
ever. Sometimes on a very rare but lucky day, the blinker actually
works - next day:



Cycle the hazard switch fifty billion times, maybe soaking it with
contact cleaner. They can also be removed, disassembled, and cleaned.


If it worked ONCE, then it's almost surely the switch. Once the switch 
actually breaks, you almost sure need to replace it if you want the turn 
signals to work RELIABLY!!! If it doesn't matter that they work 
reliably, then play more with the 19 year old switch. You MIGHT win.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] Universal replacement boots

[Marshall Booth]

archer wrote:

Has anyone tried:  Astoria 2000 (ARAFB3000) Universal Car C.V. Flex Boot?

http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=836

The boot is stretched with a $250 special air tool, slid over the can on 
each end of the half-axle, released, and secured with two hose type clamps. 
The expensive installation tool would be the main problem while trying it 
unless it could be rented.


Neat idea, but I'll wager the boots won't last anything like as long as 
the boot that come on a Mercedes. I'd bet they'll last as long as the 
boots on a "rice rocket."


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] this car was run on diesel secret, see where its at

[Luther Gulseth]

Private email?

~I too sent him a message saying the head was most likely cracked, not 
~counting the damaged caused by the diesel secret.  Now respond to your 
~private email.
~



-- 
Luther KB5QHU 
Alma, Ark 
'83 300SD (231,xxx kmi) 
'82 300CD (159,222 kmi) 
'82 300D (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR work

Re: [MBZ] this car was run on diesel secret, see where its at

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

I too sent him a message saying the head was most likely cracked, not 
counting the damaged caused by the diesel secret.  Now respond to your 
private email.


Luther Gulseth wrote:


I sent the guy an email asking where he got the idea that only 5% of these 
heads cracked.  Gave him the info that Marshall tells us that 20% of the heads 
have cracked.  I'm curious to see if he replies or not.  IF no one bids on the 
car, it might be worth it for parts..

Luther


~30 mpg too, geez what a deal. They should get a photography award "no actual 
~picture has been taken..." and it overheats in a mile or two... Lemmie guess, 
~leaking radiator full of stopsleaks?
~   
~  -Curt BTDT
~   
~  Date: Sun, 14 May 2006 20:37:49 -0500

~From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
~Subject: [MBZ] this car was run on diesel secret, see where its at
~To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
~Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
~Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
~
~http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-S-Class-Biofuel-Run-300-SDL-turbod
~iesel-BIOFUEL-PROVEN_W0QQitemZ4640221695QQcategoryZ6336QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] OT: House repair

[Curt Raymond]

I didn't want to have him see me doing it in case the whole blasted board came 
down on my head! If he didn't know and the other realtor asked he could quite 
honestly say "no idea, musta been like that."
  We've got a buyer's agent, young kid still learning the ropes. His boss is a 
friend of my wife and keeps an eye on all the goings on but the kid does the 
actual grunt work which is good because hes a real go-geter.
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Sun, 14 May 2006 20:22:13 -0500
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: House repair
To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

The realtor?  Why would the realtor care?  You are not working with the 
listing agent are you?  You would be much better off working with a 
different realtor that the one who has the property listed.




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30 mpg too, geez what a deal. They should get a photography award "no actual 
picture has been taken..." and it overheats in a mile or two... Lemmie guess, 
leaking radiator full of stopsleaks?
   
  -Curt BTDT
   
  Date: Sun, 14 May 2006 20:37:49 -0500
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [MBZ] this car was run on diesel secret, see where its at
To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-S-Class-Biofuel-Run-300-SDL-turbodiesel-BIOFUEL-PROVEN_W0QQitemZ4640221695QQcategoryZ6336QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
  85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
  76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



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X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus
Subject: Re: [MBZ] this car was run on diesel secr

[MBZ] Universal replacement boots

[archer]

Has anyone tried:  Astoria 2000 (ARAFB3000) Universal Car C.V. Flex Boot?

http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=836

The boot is stretched with a $250 special air tool, slid over the can on 
each end of the half-axle, released, and secured with two hose type clamps. 
The expensive installation tool would be the main problem while trying it 
unless it could be rented.

Gerry Archer
'83 240D and 300D 

Re: [MBZ] synthetics in the trans and aft....

[Alex Chamberlain]

On 5/14/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:



I have some first-person hands-on experience. Not in an MB but in my
Porsche.
I switched from Swepco to M1 75W90 in the transmission (I prefer not to
use
the Pontiac invented term, transaxle) and the improvement in shifting ease
was
substantial. The trans uses Borg-Warner synchros, BTW.



Surely "transaxle" is a necessary and more accurate term, no?  It describes
not just a particular kind of transmission but a transmission and axle in
one, as found in most any car where the transmission is at the same end as
the drive wheels (like an air-cooled VW or Porsche, any conventional
front-driver, Alfa GTV, or, yes, Pontiac Tempest).  As far as I know there
is no other word for that particular piece of machinery.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper

Re: [MBZ] synthetics in the trans and aft....

[Zoltan Finks]

I assume you're talking about an automatic trans. I have found that the
manual trans. in my 83 240D (I realize that I only know about my particular
case) is fantastic - very smooth, quick and painless - and the clutch is so
forgiving, I consider it half-way between a manual and and automatic -
almost like the clutch is a formality. Worlds apart from the klunky
operation in my Saab 900.

As an aside: It seems out of place that the smooth, short-throw shifter
should be in the larger, more luxury-oriented vehicle (83 240D); and the
jerky, catchy, longer-throw shifter is in the smaller, more sporty vehicle
(84 Saab 900) - but that's the way it is. I think I should experiment with
using some different trans. lube in the Saab (I have 30W engine oil in there
now). I know - maybe I'll use Mobil 1. But the question is: Mobil 1 engine
oil, or Mobil 1 ATF?

RLE wrote:
And anything that could improve shift quality
in an MB would be a good idea.

Re: [MBZ] rotten wood and termites

[RELNGSON]

Ever heard the expression "Act in haste, repent at leisure?"

My entire experience with foundation rot is what I have learned by watching 
"This Old House" and "Flip this House" and the repair is always, "replace the 
damaged wood."

When selling time comes around, a home inspector is sure to find any 
patch-jobs. Pay me now or pay me later.

RLE

Re: [MBZ] '87 190D blinker and blower problems

[Jim Cathey]

  But the more important problem remains: blinker non op. I switched 
the hasard switch a couple of times and the blinker worked this 
morning. Then this afternoon no more. switched a zillion times but 
still not working (left and right) at all.

  Wonder if a new switch would do the trick?


Perhaps, but have you tried contact cleaner in the switch?  Have you
tried disassembling the switch and cleaning the guts?  Both approaches
are substantially cheaper, and usually work.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] synthetics in the trans and aft....

[RELNGSON]

<> 

I have some first-person hands-on experience. Not in an MB but in my Porsche. 
I switched from Swepco to M1 75W90 in the transmission (I prefer not to use 
the Pontiac invented term, transaxle) and the improvement in shifting ease was 
substantial. The trans uses Borg-Warner synchros, BTW. 

Whether the innards of the box will last longer is unknown but I was looking 
for something else and found it. And anything that could improve shift quality 
in an MB would be a good idea.

BTW, after purchasing the special tool to remove the fill plug, I filled it 
with a battery syringe. So simple. Further, the lubricant level is 8mm below 
the filler hole. I made a gauge.

RLE

Re: [MBZ] OT: House repair

[Craig McCluskey]

On Sun, 14 May 2006 20:22:13 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> The realtor?  Why would the realtor care?  You are not working with the 
> listing agent are you?  You would be much better off working with a 
> different realtor that the one who has the property listed.

Indeed. And most times, unless explicitly stated, when you approach a
house purchase with an agent "of your own", BOTH agents, the seller's as
well as the buyer's, work for the SELLER!!!

So, get a buyers agent ...


Craig

Re: [MBZ] OT: House repair

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Dont know about where you are, but here in OK before any contracts are 
accepted a cap is put on repairs that both the buyer and seller have to 
agree to.  Then the buyer can spend that $350 or whatever for the 
inspection and the seller will only have to pay up to that certain 
amount, which is usually 1k, sometimes up to 2k in repairs.  The catch 
is that the buyer has to pay the first 1/4 of 1% of the contract price 
of the house.  So often times the repairs would be less than what the 
amount would be before the seller would have to kick in, and other 
times, buyers expect a new house for the price of an old house, so they 
then have to decide which repairs are important.  I have seen those 
inspectors come up will all sorts of BS crap such as "bathroom sink knob 
loose", well crap, tighten the screw.  As I said before, take inspection 
reports with a grain of salt, you still need to somewhat know what you 
are doing if you are buying a house.  That is where the importance of 
having a good realtor comes in.


andrew strasfogel wrote:


When i sold my  house the buyer's inspector was a tough SOB who made
me correct a whole bunch of stuff.  Few months latter we made an offer
on a house with an inspection contingency.  I hired the same inspector
who had flunked my old place.  Working for us, he found a water heater
that was leaking gas, a frayed major electrical cable, poor grading,
and need for roof repairs.  The inspection cost $350 but resulted in
nearly 10X the value in repairs that the sellers had to make.




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] '87 190D blinker and blower problems

[Daniel Konow]

Thanks list, my blower problem is gone after disconnecting the aux water pump. 
  But the more important problem remains: blinker non op. I switched the hasard 
switch a couple of times and the blinker worked this morning. Then this 
afternoon no more. switched a zillion times but still not working (left and 
right) at all. 
  Wonder if a new switch would do the trick?
  Thanks
  Daniel 

Zoltan Finks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  Anytime I can actually add some information rather than requesting it, I do:
I can attest that the cycling the hazard switch works. It cured my blinker
problem.

Brian
83 240D

Daniel and Jim wrote:

Then sometimes, only the right side works and the
> left not at all - and right now nothing works - no blinker what so
> ever. Sometimes on a very rare but lucky day, the blinker actually
> works - next day:


Cycle the hazard switch fifty billion times, maybe soaking it with
contact cleaner. They can also be removed, disassembled, and cleaned.
___
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: House repair
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Yea, those inpections are nice, but I would take them with a grain of 
salt.  Their job is to find thing wrong, so of course they are going to 
find things wrong with an old house.  Just dont take everything too 
serious.  It would be about like taking a 240D down to the dealership to 
have them tell you want is wrong with it before you buy it.

Gary Thompson wrote:

> I'll second the motion for a pro inspection. If nothing else, it will
> give you a second opinion, and allow you to go in with your eyes open.
> 
> Like old Benz repairs, though, the real problem may be much more
> extensive than what you see at first glance.
> 
> 
> Gary Thompson
> 1913 Craftsman Bungalow
> National and Texas Historic Registry "Easley/Raper House"
> Georgetown, TX
> 1995 E320
> 
> 
> On 5/14/06, Ed Booher <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
>>Curt,
>>
>>Whether it's a classic Benz or an older house, I have Two Words for you:
>>
>>Professional Inspection.
>>
>>If you are that serious in this house, even if you know without a
>>doubt you can do the repairs yourself, it is worth every penny you
>>spend to have an honest (can you find one?) and professional
>>construction/repair contractor go through the house and perform
>>inspections. The house might have a bad foundation, or termites, or
>>... or ... or carbon buildup in the intake ... oops, slid backwards
>>
>>You get the idea,
>>
>>Ed
>>
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 
> 
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
  85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
  76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] OT: House repair

[andrew strasfogel]

When i sold my  house the buyer's inspector was a tough SOB who made
me correct a whole bunch of stuff.  Few months latter we made an offer
on a house with an inspection contingency.  I hired the same inspector
who had flunked my old place.  Working for us, he found a water heater
that was leaking gas, a frayed major electrical cable, poor grading,
and need for roof repairs.  The inspection cost $350 but resulted in
nearly 10X the value in repairs that the sellers had to make.

On 5/14/06, John M McIntosh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

As mentioned you should have a professional home inspector check
things out. Cost should be the same as having your friendly benz dealer
do a pre-buy car inspection for you.

Beside the last house we bought, armed with a long list of issues
from the inspector,  we managed to talked the seller into shaving an
additional $10,000 off the price, which of course was better in my
pocket (soon to be spent) than his.




On 14-May-06, at 6:57 AM, Curt Raymond wrote:

> Considering the other topics we hit on here
>   My wife and I are looking at a house, MBZ content: its got a 3
> car garage, no more paying for repairs I can do myself!
>   Anyway theres this one house we really like, its in our price
> range and I think the seller will move on price to make it very
> affordable. Yesterday we really went through with a fine toothed
> comb. Its an old house so of course there are problems but theres
> one that sort of scares me.
>   At the front of the house theres one sill beam thats rotted
> pretty bad. The owners have allowed dirt to get pushed up against
> the house so water has gotten against that beam. Its not broken yet
> but it would definately want to be replaced. I don't *think* it
> would be a big deal, its accessable from the bottom and the top,
> I'd figured to clean the dirt away, jack the house just a bit to
> take pressure off the sill, pull the bad and put in new but
> I've never actually done this sort of thing on a house, all my
> experience is with camps.
>   Anyway anybody ever replaced rotted sills?
>
>   -Curt
>   soon to be first time homebuyer

John
1983 300TDt  364k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1990's 300TDt  166k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1993 500SEL 174k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)



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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] OT: House repair

[Gary Thompson]

I'll second the motion for a pro inspection. If nothing else, it will
give you a second opinion, and allow you to go in with your eyes open.

Like old Benz repairs, though, the real problem may be much more
extensive than what you see at first glance.


Gary Thompson
1913 Craftsman Bungalow
National and Texas Historic Registry "Easley/Raper House"
Georgetown, TX
1995 E320


On 5/14/06, Ed Booher <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Curt,

Whether it's a classic Benz or an older house, I have Two Words for you:

Professional Inspection.

If you are that serious in this house, even if you know without a
doubt you can do the repairs yourself, it is worth every penny you
spend to have an honest (can you find one?) and professional
construction/repair contractor go through the house and perform
inspections. The house might have a bad foundation, or termites, or
... or ... or carbon buildup in the intake ... oops, slid backwards

You get the idea,

Ed

Re: [MBZ] 300CD - Failure of locking vacuum on both front seats

[andrew strasfogel]

Thanks, Jim and Marshall.  That's exactly what I needed.  I'll run
some tests but my instinct says it's a faulty check valve or driver's
door jamb servo.



On 5/14/06, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> each seat operates independent of the other, or whether a leak in one
> side affects the other as well?  I checked under the hood and all

They are in parallel, and if one leaks both will fail.  There ought
to be a blue line under the hood, that is the seatback locking vacuum
source line.  Got MityVac?  The seatbacks are not hooked to the
vacuum reservoir that runs the locks, though both systems are of
course fed from the same vacuum pump.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] this car was run on diesel secret, see where its at

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

That would explain things then

Marshall Booth wrote:


Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-S-Class-Biofuel-Run-300-SDL-turbodiesel-BIOFUEL-PROVEN_W0QQitemZ4640221695QQcategoryZ6336QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem



...and I was born on the planet Pluto!

Marshall



--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] OT: House repair

[John M McIntosh]

As mentioned you should have a professional home inspector check  
things out. Cost should be the same as having your friendly benz dealer

do a pre-buy car inspection for you.

Beside the last house we bought, armed with a long list of issues  
from the inspector,  we managed to talked the seller into shaving an  
additional $10,000 off the price, which of course was better in my  
pocket (soon to be spent) than his.





On 14-May-06, at 6:57 AM, Curt Raymond wrote:


Considering the other topics we hit on here
  My wife and I are looking at a house, MBZ content: its got a 3  
car garage, no more paying for repairs I can do myself!
  Anyway theres this one house we really like, its in our price  
range and I think the seller will move on price to make it very  
affordable. Yesterday we really went through with a fine toothed  
comb. Its an old house so of course there are problems but theres  
one that sort of scares me.
  At the front of the house theres one sill beam thats rotted  
pretty bad. The owners have allowed dirt to get pushed up against  
the house so water has gotten against that beam. Its not broken yet  
but it would definately want to be replaced. I don't *think* it  
would be a big deal, its accessable from the bottom and the top,  
I'd figured to clean the dirt away, jack the house just a bit to  
take pressure off the sill, pull the bad and put in new but  
I've never actually done this sort of thing on a house, all my  
experience is with camps.

  Anyway anybody ever replaced rotted sills?

  -Curt
  soon to be first time homebuyer


John
1983 300TDt  364k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1990's 300TDt  166k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1993 500SEL 174k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)

Re: [MBZ] '91 300D purchase inspection

[andrew strasfogel]

What it's worth depejnds on the difference between maket value if
running perfectlyand what it would cost to R/R th engine and
transmission...

On 5/14/06, Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Sunil Hari wrote:
>
> give him $500 and part it out.

How about giving him $500 and shipping in an OM604 or OM605 from Europe?
Add an intercooler (probably easier to make room with the 604 16v),
competition
IP from Mynä-Diesel, big exhaust & turbo, and you could have a one of a kind
diesel supercar for no more than the usual going rate for a nice 300D 2.5.
If the
OM606 is good for 450hp, you should be able to get 250-300hp out of the 4
cyl.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] this car was run on diesel secret, see where its at

[Marshall Booth]

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-S-Class-Biofuel-Run-300-SDL-turbodiesel-BIOFUEL-PROVEN_W0QQitemZ4640221695QQcategoryZ6336QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


...and I was born on the planet Pluto!

Marshall

--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

[MBZ] this car was run on diesel secret, see where its at

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-S-Class-Biofuel-Run-300-SDL-turbodiesel-BIOFUEL-PROVEN_W0QQitemZ4640221695QQcategoryZ6336QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] OT: House repair

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

The realtor?  Why would the realtor care?  You are not working with the 
listing agent are you?  You would be much better off working with a 
different realtor that the one who has the property listed.


Curt Raymond wrote:


Wow Barry, thanks thats quite a reply!
   
  While the realtor wasn't looking yesterday I took a screwdriver and probed the "bad" sill, at the bottom it was quite soft and squashy. At the top it was entirely solid. This is (I think) a 2x10. I'm not sure if I mentioned it before but its worth noting that the floor above the bad sill is just fine it doesn't creak or anything. The sill definately needs replacing but its not like the house is falling down.
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Sun, 14 May 2006 10:01:09 -0700

From: "Barry Stark" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: House repair
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Curt -
If you have access, definitely replace the bad lumber if it is 
threatening
to affect the structural integrity of the house. When you replace that 
one

obvious member you may find *SNIP*


-
New Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Call regular phones from your PC and save big.
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] Shamless plug for Club 123D spring "rally"

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

actually, I think that might be the case.

Luther Gulseth wrote:


does the elevator even leave the basement?




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] 300CD - Failure of locking vacuum on both front seats

[Jim Cathey]

each seat operates independent of the other, or whether a leak in one
side affects the other as well?  I checked under the hood and all


They are in parallel, and if one leaks both will fail.  There ought
to be a blue line under the hood, that is the seatback locking vacuum
source line.  Got MityVac?  The seatbacks are not hooked to the
vacuum reservoir that runs the locks, though both systems are of
course fed from the same vacuum pump.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Synthetic vs. conventional oil in diffs, etc.

[Marshall Booth]

Alex Chamberlain wrote:

Listers,

What is the advantage of synthetic oil over conventional in a differential,
manual transmission, or similar mechanism, as opposed to in an engine where
the ability to suspend combustion byproducts is critical?  Is it just that
the synthetic is less viscous when cold, or is it likely to decrease
friction and wear significantly over the whole operating temperature range?
Or something else?  Does anybody have any anecdotal evidence from M-Bs or
anything else of, say, differentials appearing to last longer because they
had Mobil 1 in them?

I'm asking because I need to change the oil in the front and rear
differentials, transfer case, and manual transmission in my Isuzu (supposed
to be done every 30K and who knows when the moron PO did it last), and I'm
trying to decide whether to just put any old thing in there or spring for
all Mobil 1 products.  (5W30 is specified for the tranny and transfer case,
and 80W90 for the diffs.  The rear diff is limited-slip.)


Quality synthetics are desirable whenever longest life and lowest 
friction are desirable. In my experience, the effect in an automobile 
differential is less dramatic than in transmissions or much less 
apparent in engine oil, but still desirable. Under most conditions, in a 
passenger car I expect conventional lubricants are entirely satisfactory.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] Synthetic vs. conventional oil in diffs, etc.

[Mitch Haley]

I think it's worth it for improved shifting and possible extended syncro life 
in the manny tranny. 
Guys who tow heavy stuff with diesel pickups find that the diff runs cooler 
with synthetic lube. If the diff is limited slip, you will need a friction 
modifier to mix with the lube, Dodge/Chrysler dealers sell a good one.