Re: [MBZ] overheating engines

2007-09-26 Thread Peter Frederick
Replace the radiator cap.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal

2007-09-26 Thread Hendrik & Fay
I find it easier to use axle stands than lump bits of concrete around 
but each to their own. i have heard about people using old batteries to 
support cars and a multitude of other horror stories. The Darwin awards 
are a good source for DIY idiots no longer with us.
Talking about axle stands, I bought a engine removal kit (crane, leveler 
and stand) the other day and got a set of 3 ton stands chucked in on the 
deal.

Jim Cathey wrote:
>
> Good concrete with a board on top would be fine.  Cinder blocks
> aren't what I'd call good concrete!  Wood is good stuff.
>
> -- Jim
>
>
>
>   

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Re: [MBZ] GPS receivers

2007-09-26 Thread Hendrik Riessen
They have come down in price a bit, you can get one of those in car 
navigator thingys pretty cheap now a days, then there is the GPS in a phone, 
which comes with directional stuff as well and then there are the plain old 
hand held co-ordinate receivers.
Basically depends what you want to do with it.

- Original Message - 
From: "Craig McCluskey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "mercedes" 
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 2:12 PM
Subject: [MBZ] GPS receivers


> My next door neighbor is looking at getting a GPS receiver. He found that
> Consumer Reports doesn't rate them, so he wants me to ask all of you.
>
> He's looking at the Garmin C340 and Garmin NUVI350.
>
> Does anyone know anything about them, or about what makes a good GPS
> receiver?
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Craig
>
> P.S. It would be nice to have one when we drive to the IowaQ, but I guess
> I'm too cheap to shell out for one.
>

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Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal

2007-09-26 Thread archer
>> without warning).  Then word got around that concrete blocks were safe
>> if
>> you put a piece of wood on top to distribute the load.  More people got
>> crushed.  Finally nearly everyone became convince that concrete blocks
>> were
>> too risky so they started using wood blocks.  This was before
>> jackstands
>> became cheap.
>
> Good concrete with a board on top would be fine.  Cinder blocks
> aren't what I'd call good concrete!  Wood is good stuff.
> -- Jim

The problem seemed to be whether a person used "solid" concrete blocks such 
as the 4" by 8" by 16" or those which were not solid such as the standard 8" 
by 8" by 16" building blocks.  I used the solid blocks with a piece of 3/4" 
plywood on top with no problem, but always kept a jack under the diff or 
crossmember just in case when I was under it.  Eventually I got around to 
cutting up some 2" by 12" boards which were lighter to handle and much 
safer.
Gerry 


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Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal

2007-09-26 Thread Jim Cathey
> without warning).  Then word got around that concrete blocks were safe 
> if
> you put a piece of wood on top to distribute the load.  More people got
> crushed.  Finally nearly everyone became convince that concrete blocks 
> were
> too risky so they started using wood blocks.  This was before 
> jackstands
> became cheap.

Good concrete with a board on top would be fine.  Cinder blocks
aren't what I'd call good concrete!  Wood is good stuff.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 87 300D did it's job, RIP

2007-09-26 Thread mykd1

Hey Peter, 

?Its good to hear you are ok and the car did its job. If you really think about 
it, its sort of sad to know that everything about a Mercedes leads up to this 
point. They're designed to protect you in?a crash. Kind of like a self 
sacrifice



Harry
69 280 SEL 
72 350SL ?
04 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata ? 


-Original Message-
From: Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Sent: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 2:10 pm
Subject: [MBZ] 87 300D did it's job, RIP



Dingdong in JE Sheckel service van blew at red light on the highway 
this morning about 7:30 and totaled my 300D.  Hit the front door as I 
drove across the highway doing about 60, wasn't watching the road 
(duh).

I got away with some glass embedded in my left arm (gotta go have that 
dug out in the next day or to, I think) and some very sore ribs.  
Didn't break the fountain pens in my front pocket or bend up my reading 
glasses.

Dash is completely crushed, had to break out the climate control 
pushbutton unit and drive the side back to get the glove box open (my 
brother did, I'm not able!) to get my stuff out, like the spare set of 
rear pads I've not gotten around to getting installed.  A helpful 
passerby found some long needlenose pliers (probably off the Sheckel 
van) and turned the engine off, it was running about half throttle and 
boiling (no radiator cap to keep the pressure off the cracked head).  
The keys are about 6" inside the dash now, it's that badly crushed.  
Climate control split in half and folded up, center vent crunched, what 
a mess.

Front doorpost is pushed in at least 18", tire is lying over at 45 
degrees or more (lower control arm not bent much if at all), door is 
pushed in at least a foot. Windshield is busted, floor pan is VERY 
narrow, console cover is torn up and shoved up 6" or so. I unbuckled 
and climbed out the passenger side.

Other than the punch in the ribs I'm fine, got a cut from my exploded 
coffee cup that flew out of my carrier bag.  Cell phone still works in 
spite of being thrown onto the floor under the front seat from my bag 
in the right seat, haven't tried the computer yet, but the bag was 
still on the front seat where I left it.

I ended up pointing straight south rolling down the median from going 
straight east, no skid marks other than my tires going sideways, I 
don't think he ever touched the brakes.  Other driver was fine, airbags 
went off, so that's good (although I'm NOT pleased at my car being 
wiped).  Not a good feeling to look up and see a vehicle speeding 
toward you less than 6 ft away and thinking, oh s this is gonna be 
bad.

Didn't even black out, didn't hit my head, didn't bang my hip, knee, or 
feet.

I feel much better about my mother driving a 300 TE, as much of a pain 
as it has been keeping it running nicely (idle and AC problems, finally 
fixed).  At least if she gets slammed she is unlikely to be hurt.

What a car!  Now I gotta find another one..

Peter


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[MBZ] GPS receivers

2007-09-26 Thread Craig McCluskey
My next door neighbor is looking at getting a GPS receiver. He found that
Consumer Reports doesn't rate them, so he wants me to ask all of you.

He's looking at the Garmin C340 and Garmin NUVI350.

Does anyone know anything about them, or about what makes a good GPS
receiver?

Thanks,


Craig

P.S. It would be nice to have one when we drive to the IowaQ, but I guess
 I'm too cheap to shell out for one.

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Re: [MBZ] overheating engines

2007-09-26 Thread Zoltan Finks
Okay, good to get into this talk about coolant and head gaskets.

Let me ask this: One thing I noticed the day I bought the car is that
just a few moments after parking the car, the top radiator hose was
not hard.

And when you squeeze it (still does the same thing today) you hear
some sort of ticking noises from down in the engine somewhere.

Do these conditions ring a bell with anyone? I'm used to a top
radiator hose being hard after shutting the engine off, as there's
pressure in the system.

Why don't we start three posts: one for the impatient (*sigh*), and
one for those looking to make a snappy joke, and one for those who are
open to thoughtful questions.

Brian

On 9/26/07, Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Glycol raises the boiling point of the coolant to around 240F, pressure
> cap raises the BP to around 260F.  However, if the coolant is not
> circulating, the head can get really hot, and both differential
> expansion of the parts of the head and the difference in expansion
> between the aluminum head and the cast iron block (and steel bolts) can
> both cause distortion of the head, cracks, and a crushed head gasket.
>
> If it didn't blow steam, just replace the alternator and belt and see
> what happens.  Symptoms of a failed head are loose head bolts, coolant
> in the oil (or combustion chambers = white smoke), or oil in the
> coolant tank.  You may also get gas bubbling up in the coolant tank
> from a cracked head or at blown head gasket.  A bad gasket on that car
> will also start to leak oil out the rear right corner.
>
> You may be OK, you will just have to see.
>
> Peter
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-26 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Wed, 26 Sep 2007 21:16:28 -0700 Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> The big heat-sinked paralleled transistors _are_ N-channel
> depletion-mode FET's.  I used the Fluke to measure the channel
> resistance of the pair between source and drain, and got about 0.8
> ohms.  With a negative 1.25V applied to the gate using the Heathkit
> VTVM's ohmmeter function the channel resistance of the pair shot up to
> around 80 ohms.

Amazing. I've never even heard of those as power devices, only enhancement
mode FETs. Now the small, raisin JFETs are a different story.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal

2007-09-26 Thread archer
Years ago people sat cars on concrete blocks and worked under them until a 
few got crushed to death in their own driveway (the blocks can crumble 
without warning).  Then word got around that concrete blocks were safe if 
you put a piece of wood on top to distribute the load.  More people got 
crushed.  Finally nearly everyone became convince that concrete blocks were 
too risky so they started using wood blocks.  This was before jackstands 
became cheap.

I knew a mechanic who was killed back then when a professional spring 
compressor broke.  Next front end job, I'll rent Rustys and carefully put 
the compressed spring in a closet while it's compressed.  That's what they 
do in some front end shops.

Gerry
---
> Hendrik Reissen wrote:
> Yes and I removed a 123 spring with el cheapo external spring compressors,
> second time I tried this the spring slipped out and jumped across the 
> garage
> floor. I have now invested in a proper compressor. How much is my life
> worth? More than 300 bucks.
> You may be able to use that tool to do the job but there is no margin for
> error.
> Anyway you have been warned, not everyone gets a second chance.
> If you are going to persist with a MacPherson strut coil compressor I will
> advise you to not have anyone near it when you are using it. You do not 
> want
> to take the head off your little helper.
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "dave walton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 4:04 AM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..

>>I appreciate the input.
>> Saying it won't work is different than saying you should not use it.
>> To be honest, after handling one to do the job, I find it to be
>> adequately heavy-duty to be used safely. I prefer the quick hydraulic
>> operation to manually tightening and loosening a bolt.
>> One man's opinion...
>> -Dave Walton


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Re: [MBZ] The evil broken lug nut is OUT, rear, 300 SDL

2007-09-26 Thread Peter Frederick
Center punch and drill it out -- once you get most of the bolt out from 
the thread, it lets go.

Makes you want to do nasty things to the monkey with the air wrench.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] The evil broken lug nut is OUT, rear, 300 SDL

2007-09-26 Thread Jim Cathey
My lug-bolt mantra involves the dogleg wrench from the
250C, and a rubber mallet.  I just hit the handle repeatedly
with the mallet until it comes loose.  But I've probably
never had a 'hard case'.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-26 Thread Jim Cathey
The big heat-sinked paralleled transistors _are_ N-channel
depletion-mode FET's.  I used the Fluke to measure the channel
resistance of the pair between source and drain, and got about 0.8
ohms.  With a negative 1.25V applied to the gate using the Heathkit
VTVM's ohmmeter function the channel resistance of the pair shot up to
around 80 ohms.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] The evil broken lug nut is OUT, rear, 300 SDL

2007-09-26 Thread Harry Watkins
On 9/26/07, Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> The problem is that the initial over-tightening causes the bolt to
> bend, binding the spherical surface tighter than you can release by
> turning the bolt.  I've seen them wobble like you wouldn't believe from
> a front wheel, where you can remove the hub.
>
> It won't let go until you relieve the pressure on the seating surface
> -- then the bolt will simply unscrew.
>
> Peter



Exactly, a hole drill made it through the flange and out it came.

Peter, after a front hub is removed, how is the lug bolt gotten out from the
other side?

Harry

Harry

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Re: [MBZ] The evil broken lug nut is OUT, rear, 300 SDL

2007-09-26 Thread Harry Watkins
On 9/26/07, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I forget, did the initial removal oops involve pounding,
> the shock of which can help, or a more gentle twist which
> seems to be more likely to break stuck things?
>
> Congratulations, anyway.
>
> -- Jim


After failing with the normal removal efforts, I did the shock treatments,
however, the twist off occured while using the cheater bar and thinking,
"well its about time".  I thought the lug bolt was on the way out,
however...

I've been calling it a lug nut, sorry, its the very EVIL lug bolt.

Harry

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Re: [MBZ] The evil broken lug nut is OUT, rear, 300 SDL

2007-09-26 Thread Peter Frederick
The problem is that the initial over-tightening causes the bolt to 
bend, binding the spherical surface tighter than you can release by 
turning the bolt.  I've seen them wobble like you wouldn't believe from 
a front wheel, where you can remove the hub.

It won't let go until you relieve the pressure on the seating surface 
-- then the bolt will simply unscrew.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] The evil broken lug nut is OUT, rear, 300 SDL

2007-09-26 Thread Jim Cathey
I forget, did the initial removal oops involve pounding,
the shock of which can help, or a more gentle twist which
seems to be more likely to break stuck things?

Congratulations, anyway.

-- Jim


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[MBZ] The evil broken lug nut is OUT, rear, 300 SDL

2007-09-26 Thread Harry Watkins
I don't never ever want this to happen to me again.  I guesstimate at
least 15 hours of pounding, impacting, Kroiling, grunting, drilling, saying
dang it and grinding before it was all done.  The last step was to grab a
ragged edge with needle nose and easily screw it out.

My big question is; "what things may work to get it out before twisting off
the hex?"  I tried kroil throughout this ordeal but I doubt any got to where
it was needed.  I used the BFH both straight in and in the direction to
tighten or loosen.  I used an impact wrench back and forth, a cheater bar
back and forth, but never any heat for fear of a brake problem either now or
many moons later.

Unless someone shares a better and proven method, right now I think I would
try the heat and replace or rebuild that wheel's brake system.  However, I
don't know that heat would do the trick.  If heat did make it an easy out, I
don't think the cost would be much more than what it has cost me this time,
not counting time spent.

You would have to be one of my very best friends to ever be allowed to
tighten one of my lug nuts and even then, it would be under close, looking
over the shoulder supervision.

Harry
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Re: [MBZ] overheating engines

2007-09-26 Thread Peter Frederick
Glycol raises the boiling point of the coolant to around 240F, pressure 
cap raises the BP to around 260F.  However, if the coolant is not 
circulating, the head can get really hot, and both differential 
expansion of the parts of the head and the difference in expansion 
between the aluminum head and the cast iron block (and steel bolts) can 
both cause distortion of the head, cracks, and a crushed head gasket.

If it didn't blow steam, just replace the alternator and belt and see 
what happens.  Symptoms of a failed head are loose head bolts, coolant 
in the oil (or combustion chambers = white smoke), or oil in the 
coolant tank.  You may also get gas bubbling up in the coolant tank 
from a cracked head or at blown head gasket.  A bad gasket on that car 
will also start to leak oil out the rear right corner.

You may be OK, you will just have to see.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] overheating engines

2007-09-26 Thread Hendrik Riessen
I don't have the info at hand but to what degree does coolant raise the 
boiling point?
I am trying to dig into the memory banks to remember automotive cooling 
systems 101 and the effect of the radiator cap in raising the boiling point. 
This is called the pressure cooker principle, where temps of 100d Celcius+ 
are achieved by raising the pressure within the cooker. So yes a hot motor 
100+ will have more pressure in the system than a motor at 85d C but if it 
is enough to cause damage is hard to tell.
However given the fact that the radiator cap did not blow (unless it is the 
wrong one) is a indicator that no damage was done but it is a 20 year old 
motor and just that little bit of extra pressure could perhaps maybe in some 
circumstances done something which may cause problems further down the road 
but personally I would just keep going.
However we are all just guessing and no one can give you a definite answer 
in regards to damage done. It's like asking how a auto box will last once it 
starts flaring in the shifts, my Mum's lasted years and is only now starting 
to die properly. Sure we could have fixed it when the first signs of trouble 
started but we didn't.

- Original Message - 
From: "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 11:25 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] overheating engines


> That's the key - did it hit the 120 mark and that's as hot as it got,
> or did it exceed the range of the gauge, and actually was much hotter?
>
> On 9/26/07, Zoltan Finks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> Good word. No, no steam and the engine really didn't even feel overly
>> hot when I opened the hood.
>>
>>
>> Brian
>>

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Re: [MBZ] Need PDF of instructions to RnR Alternator

2007-09-26 Thread Wonko the Sane
Can't help you this time, dude.   ;-)

On 9/26/07, Zoltan Finks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I wish I knew this by now, but where can I get the electronic
> instructions to work on this 190D?
>
> Someone kindly gave me the CDs for my 240D, but I don't have anything
> for the 87 190D.
>
> Brian
>
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-- 
LT Don
http://don.homelinux.net/~don/
Proudly marching to the beat of a different kettle of fish.

Make a small loan, Make a big difference - Kiva.org
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Re: [MBZ] Today's sightings in Richville

2007-09-26 Thread Loren Faeth
Put a OM602 turbo in to the 190SL and you'd have double neat in one car!

At 08:50 PM 9/26/2007, you wrote:
>Dasher wagon diesel.
>
>190 SL Convertible.
>
>Neat, both.
>
>Brian
>
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Loren Faeth 


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[MBZ] Need PDF of instructions to RnR Alternator

2007-09-26 Thread Zoltan Finks
I wish I knew this by now, but where can I get the electronic
instructions to work on this 190D?

Someone kindly gave me the CDs for my 240D, but I don't have anything
for the 87 190D.

Brian

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Re: [MBZ] Getting taken by mechanic currently

2007-09-26 Thread Curt Raymond

*SIGH*
The coolant is there for a reason you take it away and bad things happen.
Try overheating your Honda, thats likely got an all aluminum ENGINE. You'll not 
only crack the head but ruin the block.
You want things light you use aluminum. You want heavier duty you pay by 
burning more fuel. Its a pretty simple exchange in most cases.

My '85 190D 2.2l has the same 72hp that my '83 240D had. The 190D weighs like 
600# less and it shows in top speed, acceleration and fuel economy...

-Curt

Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 15:53:24 -0700
From: "Zoltan Finks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Getting taken by mechanic currently
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Message-ID:
 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Wow. So the thing has an aluminum head?

If the stupid thing can't take a minute at 120C or so, then I'm not
sure it's such a good car afterall. I mean, sh*%t happens. If my wife
had been in the car, it might have gotten driven for miles and miles
before she realized anything was wrong. You mean to tell me that it is
literally that easy to destroy a Mercedes Benz?

What kind of excellent German engineering is this?

Brian

   
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Re: [MBZ] CL Detroit 1986 (?) 300d

2007-09-26 Thread Steve MacSween
Also beware that it may have been badged a 300d when imported (seen similar
on other grey market Mercedes on eBay), but may be a 200d or 250d -- both of
which are common as grass in Europe in the w124 chassis cars.

Ask for a VIN.

Mac

on 9/26/07 8:55, Kaleb C. Striplin, work at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> That is a possibility
> 
> ---
> Kaleb C. Striplin
> Cox Auto Trader
> 730 FSBO Supervisor
> 
> - Original Message -
> From: "John Freer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 7:19 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] CL Detroit 1986 (?) 300d
> 
> 
>> So it may  not be a turbo?
>> 
>> On 9/25/07, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>> yes, that appears to be a grey market car
>>> 
>>> Rick Knoble wrote:
 The listing says '86, it appears to have Euro lights on it. Maybe it is
 grey market or something...
 http://detroit.craigslist.org/car/430984228.html
 
 Rick Knoble
 '85 300 CD
 '87 190 DT
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>>> --
>>> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>>> 94 E420, 94 E320, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic,
>>> 91 300D, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
>>> 81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> 
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Re: [MBZ] overheating engines

2007-09-26 Thread OK Don
That's the key - did it hit the 120 mark and that's as hot as it got,
or did it exceed the range of the gauge, and actually was much hotter?

On 9/26/07, Zoltan Finks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Good word. No, no steam and the engine really didn't even feel overly
> hot when I opened the hood.
>
>
> Brian
>
> On 9/26/07, Hendrik Riessen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > That is why there are radiator pressure caps fitted to cars, so unless the
> > wrong cap is on the engine the expanding coolant theory is a bit shaky. Was
> > there any steam action? Is the correct cap on the expansion tank (it should
> > be stamped on the cap, 120 I think)?
> > If there was an expulsion of steam I would say yes you are in the poo poo
> > but if it just got up the 120 mark then you should be pretty right, however
> > every engine is different and just because old cast iron engines can be
> > overheated for a half a day without ill effects does not mean a aluminium
> > and cast iron engine is the same.
> > Remember that MB engines are designed to go up to 110 on a regular basis and
> > as such a little spike to 120 should not be a killer.
> > However sensible design would state that a warning light in conjuntion with
> > a buzzer would be prudent but then how are they gonna make money from cooked
> > engines?

-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics."
-Benjamin Disraeli
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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[MBZ] Today's sightings in Richville

2007-09-26 Thread Zoltan Finks
Dasher wagon diesel.

190 SL Convertible.

Neat, both.

Brian

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Re: [MBZ] overheating engines

2007-09-26 Thread Zoltan Finks
Good word. No, no steam and the engine really didn't even feel overly
hot when I opened the hood.


Brian

On 9/26/07, Hendrik Riessen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> That is why there are radiator pressure caps fitted to cars, so unless the
> wrong cap is on the engine the expanding coolant theory is a bit shaky. Was
> there any steam action? Is the correct cap on the expansion tank (it should
> be stamped on the cap, 120 I think)?
> If there was an expulsion of steam I would say yes you are in the poo poo
> but if it just got up the 120 mark then you should be pretty right, however
> every engine is different and just because old cast iron engines can be
> overheated for a half a day without ill effects does not mean a aluminium
> and cast iron engine is the same.
> Remember that MB engines are designed to go up to 110 on a regular basis and
> as such a little spike to 120 should not be a killer.
> However sensible design would state that a warning light in conjuntion with
> a buzzer would be prudent but then how are they gonna make money from cooked
> engines?
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Curt Raymond" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Diesel List" 
> Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 8:49 AM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Getting taken by mechanic currently
>
>
> > Remember what happens when you overheat the engine:
> > The coolant turns to steam. The steam takes up a LOT more space than the
> > water does. In an earlier post I'd said like 6x I did a little search and
> > apparently it's more like 1500x!!!
> > That much extra pressure has to go somewhere, blowing the headgasket is a
> > really common result.
> > I don't think the head cracks from pressure though, I think the head
> > cracks from the temperature differential through its mass. The hottest
> > part of the head, the combustion chamber, wants to enlarge from the heat
> > of combustion. Thats normally held in check by the coolant which wicks
> > that heat away. Once the coolant is steam the heat concentrates and now
> > the lowest part of the head wants to expand. Unfortunately its connected
> > to the rest of the head which is heating up more slowly and doesn't want
> > to expand or doesn't want to expand as quickly. Thats when you get cracks.
> >
> > Overheating is NEVER good.
> >
> > -Curt
> >
>
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Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..

2007-09-26 Thread OK Don
And with the pump on only one side, the plates for the top and bottom
of the spring are bolted onto the sides of the moving brackets - I
wouldn't use it on a Mercedes spring!

On 9/26/07, Tom Hargrave <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Don't believe I'd want to trust my life with a hydraulic pump, high pressure
> hose & cylinder The traditional screw type compressors are much safer,
> providing they are rated for the load they are compressing.
>
> Thanks,
> Tom Hargrave


-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics."
-Benjamin Disraeli
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] OT color laser printing costs

2007-09-26 Thread OK Don
PC Mag did a test/comparison of ink jet printers for cost per page
recently - I didn't notice if they did color lasers also. There is a
new industry standard for rating the cost per page, and they were
testing to see how closely the manufactures rating matched the
standard - and they were all close enough.


-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics."
-Benjamin Disraeli
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] overheating engines

2007-09-26 Thread Hendrik Riessen
That is why there are radiator pressure caps fitted to cars, so unless the 
wrong cap is on the engine the expanding coolant theory is a bit shaky. Was 
there any steam action? Is the correct cap on the expansion tank (it should 
be stamped on the cap, 120 I think)?
If there was an expulsion of steam I would say yes you are in the poo poo 
but if it just got up the 120 mark then you should be pretty right, however 
every engine is different and just because old cast iron engines can be 
overheated for a half a day without ill effects does not mean a aluminium 
and cast iron engine is the same.
Remember that MB engines are designed to go up to 110 on a regular basis and 
as such a little spike to 120 should not be a killer.
However sensible design would state that a warning light in conjuntion with 
a buzzer would be prudent but then how are they gonna make money from cooked 
engines?

- Original Message - 
From: "Curt Raymond" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Diesel List" 
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 8:49 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Getting taken by mechanic currently


> Remember what happens when you overheat the engine:
> The coolant turns to steam. The steam takes up a LOT more space than the 
> water does. In an earlier post I'd said like 6x I did a little search and 
> apparently it's more like 1500x!!!
> That much extra pressure has to go somewhere, blowing the headgasket is a 
> really common result.
> I don't think the head cracks from pressure though, I think the head 
> cracks from the temperature differential through its mass. The hottest 
> part of the head, the combustion chamber, wants to enlarge from the heat 
> of combustion. Thats normally held in check by the coolant which wicks 
> that heat away. Once the coolant is steam the heat concentrates and now 
> the lowest part of the head wants to expand. Unfortunately its connected 
> to the rest of the head which is heating up more slowly and doesn't want 
> to expand or doesn't want to expand as quickly. Thats when you get cracks.
>
> Overheating is NEVER good.
>
> -Curt
>

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Re: [MBZ] Getting taken by mechanic currently

2007-09-26 Thread Jim Cathey
> About $750 dollars to replace the alternator, and the tensioner pulley
> and its shock.
> and about $160 to replace the thermostat.

That sounds a touch high.  But all that stuff adds up,
it's appalling how much it can total even when you're
getting a deal.

Learn to drive a wrench!

> Anybody want to buy an 87 190D?

My neighbor certainly does.  (Not sure his wife agrees.)

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..

2007-09-26 Thread Jim Cathey
> Cost on these now is $965.00 plus shipping.

Yowch!  Makes the group-purchase price of a few years
ago look good now.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Getting taken by mechanic currently

2007-09-26 Thread Jim Cathey
> Wow. So the thing has an aluminum head?
> If the stupid thing can't take a minute at 120C or so, then I'm not
> sure it's such a good car afterall.

That is why we often recommend the more bulletproof 61X iron
motors used in the 123 and such.  The 60X is a superior motor
in everything but tolerance to overheating.

> You mean to tell me that it is
> literally that easy to destroy a Mercedes Benz?

Or anything else with an aluminum head.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] clunky downshift 300TE

2007-09-26 Thread Hendrik Riessen
The problem I have with vaccum theory is that it is only the 4-3 shift, 
generally speaking vaccum issues affect all changes to a degree. Although if 
the 4-3 shift mechanism is a bit sticky, a touch of extra/less vaccum could 
compensate for that.
This is the same for the stuffed flex plate theory, there would be issues 
all through the shifts, perhaps not to such a degree. As much as I would 
like it to be something as simple as renewing flex plates, I somehow don't 
think it is that easy. Otherwise it may well have been done by now because a 
car is much easier to sell without a clunky gearbox
Also it would seem that the box shifted better while the fluid was cold but 
once up to operating temperature gave the neck muscles a good workout. It is 
also load sensitive, in other words if you floor it the little elf gets the 
sledge hammer out but if you gently accelerate he will only use a little 
hammer to bang third gear into place.

- Original Message - 
From: "Bill Ringgold" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 4:15 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] clunky downshift 300TE


>I am no expert on this, but when I was having that clunk [like someone was
> hiding in the trunk with a sledge hammer] it was a vacuum problem.  Went 
> ok
> for a year after I got it fixed, but I am not having a rebuilt put in.
> BillR

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-26 Thread Jim Cathey
> Junk is often junk because of only a few weak places.  Or
> so I've found.  Sometimes you can correct them.

...And sometimes you find $20 on the nightstand.  Not
too often, though.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 87 300D did it's job, RIP

2007-09-26 Thread Jim Cathey
> It is a good deal for the person willing to work the problems out.  I
> suspect jim cathey will be able to find the parts to make it whole,
> where as I seem to only find really old parts cheap.

You and I are mostly on the same page.  I either get really old
parts cheap, or I fabricate, or I bend over and buy like
everybody else.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Getting taken by mechanic currently

2007-09-26 Thread Hendrik Riessen
I would just find another mechanic, going back to those thieves will only 
spell trouble. More than likely they use the cheapest parts they can find 
and do a crappy job if you start getting smart with them.
What I look for in a mechanic is fairness, I am willing to pay good money 
for a good job. A good mechanic can make car ownership that much more 
enjoyable and having the ability to take your car in to him/her and say fix 
it please, without having to go through the how much is this gonna cost 
dance, is a bonus.

- Original Message - 
From: "Curt Raymond" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Diesel List" 
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 5:20 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Getting taken by mechanic currently


>

> Either find another mechanic or rustle up several different sources for 
> the alt, print 'em and take 'em in with you, preferably when he's busy.
> Tell him you don't mind taking it in the behind but you'd like him to lube 
> you up first.
>
> -Curt
>

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Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..

2007-09-26 Thread Tom Hargrave
Don't believe I'd want to trust my life with a hydraulic pump, high pressure
hose & cylinder The traditional screw type compressors are much safer,
providing they are rated for the load they are compressing.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Rusty Cullens
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 12:21 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..

No.

Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
Tel 1-800-741-5252
Fax   770-454-9745

- Original Message - 
From: "dave walton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 1:15 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..


> Would something like this work?
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Troy-1-Ton-Hydraulic-Coil-Strut-Spring-Compre
ssor-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35625QQihZ003QQitemZ130155502475QQrdZ1QQ
sspagenameZWDVW
>
> -Dave Walton
>
>
> On 9/26/07, Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Rusty Cullens wrote:
>> >
>> > You know that we rent the Klann spring compressor for $75.00?
>>
>>
>> I would not consider fabricating this one.
>> Klann is the factory tool. Costs many hundreds of $$$.
>> SIR is tolerable as a cheap substitute, costs a few hundred.
>> No idea if KD is up to the task, but if it's got the two
>> swinging hook arms on each end, I'd avoid it. The right tool
>> has solid plates to hold the spring, which is far more
>> powerful than the usual automotive spring.
>>
>> I'd take it to an indy who owns a Klann or give Rusty a call and DIY.
>>
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>
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Re: [MBZ] Getting taken by mechanic currently

2007-09-26 Thread Hendrik Riessen
Tell them they are dreaming, those jobs are pretty easy DIY except for 
rebuilding the alternator.
Pull the alternator and take it to a reputable auto sparky for an overhaul, 
the alternators are nothing out of the ordinary.
The thermostat could be about right if the cover needs replacing (MB no 
longer make the plastic thermostat cover and the metal ones are pricey but a 
good S/H one should do the job).
Anyway ask Rusty what the going rate is for those parts.

- Original Message - 
From: "Zoltan Finks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 4:23 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Getting taken by mechanic currently


> How does this sound to y'all?
>
> About $750 dollars to replace the alternator, and the tensioner pulley
> and its shock.
>
> and about $160 to replace the thermostat.
>
> The alternator the guy wants to sell me is some $350.
>
> He won't accept outside parts.
>
> Is this price what I should expect?
>
> Anybody want to buy an 87 190D?
>
> Brian
>

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Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal

2007-09-26 Thread Hendrik Riessen
Yes and I removed a 123 spring with el cheapo external spring compressors, 
second time I tried this the spring slipped out and jumped across the garage 
floor. I have now invested in a proper compressor. How much is my life 
worth? More than 300 bucks.
You may be able to use that tool to do the job but there is no margin for 
error.
Anyway you have been warned, not everyone gets a second chance.
If you are going to persist with a MacPherson strut coil compressor I will 
advise you to not have anyone near it when you are using it. You do not want 
to take the head off your little helper.

- Original Message - 
From: "dave walton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 4:04 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..


>I appreciate the input.
> Saying it won't work is different than saying you should not use it.
>
> To be honest, after handling one to do the job, I find it to be
> adequately heavy-duty to be used safely. I prefer the quick hydraulic
> operation to manually tightening and loosening a bolt.
>
> One man's opinion...
>
> -Dave Walton
>
>

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Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..

2007-09-26 Thread Hendrik Riessen
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1801-Mercedes-Benz-Strut-Coil-Spring-Compressor-Tool_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35625QQihZ019QQitemZ290165001781QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
This is the one I got and it did the job without the price tag, although I 
had to enlarge the hole on the 123 for it to fit. Perhaps I should have used 
some KY.
Shipping from that seller was pretty quick too.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Coil-Spring-Compressor-Suspension-Repair-Tools_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35625QQihZ002QQitemZ120165946852QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
Here is one with a buy it now option.
So basically you will need to use the tool three times to make it 
worthwhile, if you only think you'll need it once then rent from Rusty. Also 
remmeber that these things have a resale value and as such can be sold once 
no longer required.

- Original Message - 
From: "Rusty Cullens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 2:47 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..


> Cost on these now is $965.00 plus shipping. Renting is the only way to go.
>
> Rusty Cullens

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Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..

2007-09-26 Thread Hendrik Riessen
No, the only safe way to do this is with a proper internal compressor. Thr 
problem with that one is that it compresses from one side and the spring can 
jump out the other.

- Original Message - 
From: "dave walton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 2:45 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..


> Would something like this work?
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Troy-1-Ton-Hydraulic-Coil-Strut-Spring-Compressor-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35625QQihZ003QQitemZ130155502475QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
>
> -Dave Walton
>
>

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300D did it's job, RIP

2007-09-26 Thread Hendrik Riessen
Don't really remember, probably somewhere between 70 and 80 cents.
http://www.aph.gov.au/LIBRARY/pubs/rn/2004-05/05rn28.htm

- Original Message - 
From: "Alex Chamberlain" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> 
> What was the exchange rate between Aussie dollars and USD in 1993?
> 
> Alex Chamberlain
> '87 300D et al.
> 
> ___
> 

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Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..

2007-09-26 Thread Hendrik Riessen
I bought an aftermarket copy on stealbay for about 250 US beans, did the job 
on the 123 very safely.

- Original Message - 
From: "Rusty Cullens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 1:57 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..


> You know that we rent the Klann spring compressor for $75.00?
>
>
> Rusty Cullens
> 

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Re: [MBZ] Getting taken by mechanic currently

2007-09-26 Thread Curt Raymond
Remember what happens when you overheat the engine:
The coolant turns to steam. The steam takes up a LOT more space than the water 
does. In an earlier post I'd said like 6x I did a little search and apparently 
it's more like 1500x!!!
That much extra pressure has to go somewhere, blowing the headgasket is a 
really common result. 
I don't think the head cracks from pressure though, I think the head cracks 
from the temperature differential through its mass. The hottest part of the 
head, the combustion chamber, wants to enlarge from the heat of combustion. 
Thats normally held in check by the coolant which wicks that heat away. Once 
the coolant is steam the heat concentrates and now the lowest part of the head 
wants to expand. Unfortunately its connected to the rest of the head which is 
heating up more slowly and doesn't want to expand or doesn't want to expand as 
quickly. Thats when you get cracks.

Overheating is NEVER good.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 14:43:09 -0700
From: "Zoltan Finks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Getting taken by mechanic currently
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Zoikes, I didn't think that running the needle up to about the red
mark for a moment or two would put me in that much danger!

Good thought though, on the money.

I really didn't let it dwell at top temp for more than like a minute or
 so.

Brian
   
-
Tonight's top picks. What will you watch tonight? Preview the hottest shows on 
Yahoo! TV.
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[MBZ] 99 E300D, 87300TD for sale Houston

2007-09-26 Thread Rich Thomas
Saw these in the paper this morning.  If anyone interested I could take 
a look.

--R

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Re: [MBZ] Getting taken by mechanic currently

2007-09-26 Thread Zoltan Finks
Wow. So the thing has an aluminum head?

If the stupid thing can't take a minute at 120C or so, then I'm not
sure it's such a good car afterall. I mean, sh*%t happens. If my wife
had been in the car, it might have gotten driven for miles and miles
before she realized anything was wrong. You mean to tell me that it is
literally that easy to destroy a Mercedes Benz?

What kind of excellent German engineering is this?

Brian

On 9/26/07, Alex Chamberlain <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> On 9/26/07, Zoltan Finks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Zoikes, I didn't think that running the needle up to about the red
> > mark for a moment or two would put me in that much danger!
> >
> > Good thought though, on the money.
> >
> > I really didn't let it dwell at top temp for more than like a minute or so.
>
> A moment or a minute?  Big difference!  The latter is an eternity when
> you're talking about overheated aluminum!  BTDT with my car.
>
> Alex Chamberlain
> '87 300D Turbo
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT color laser printing costs

2007-09-26 Thread Rich Thomas
Cost per page is basically dependent on toner cartridge/tank (or 
whatever vessel it comes in) costs -- check to see what the avg page 
count is and then figure it out.  Of course, finding that info might be 
difficult as the manfs don't want you to know that the are in the razor 
blade business, making money off carts and not the printer.  The carts 
are pretty pricey, and they all seem to be about the same price across 
manfs, so not clear if one is cheaper than another unless you get some 
kind of page count.  Then of course it depends on your usage -- they 
might last you a couple of years if you don't use them much, by then a 
similar printer will be half the cost while the carts are still pricey, 
so either way you'll have to suck it up. 

I get emails from LD which is some sort of cart manf or refiller or 
something, their carts are considerably cheaper than OEM, and seem to 
work OK.  I bought some color inkjet carts from them a couple years ago.

--R

Loren Faeth wrote:
> Since there is an abundance of IT folks on this list:
>
> What are the best/least expensive to operate color laser printers 
> that will do duplex?
> 11x 17 desirable.
> Prefer printers under $2500.
> Does anyone have recent cost per page info of various manufacturers/models?
>
> Brother HL-4070CDW Color Laser Printer looks interesting for 
> $400  Beats the crap out if the $13k printer I bought 6-7 years ago.
>
> Loren
>
>
>
> Loren Faeth  
>
>
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>   

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[MBZ] Fw: 126 chassis front spring removal ..

2007-09-26 Thread George Larribeau
Sent this earlier, doesn't look like it got through
George Larribeau


> "I just used one to remove the front springs on my 99 E300."
>
> do you mean the KD thing ??
>
> PS:
> I don't want to start an 'incident' on the list. Just asking. It may be 
> true about the factory tool however I wish to pursue other options. Like I 
> said I've taken out springs before and the definition of 'wimpy' is 
> relative. The vehicle is still a car in the 2-tone class, not a Truck.I 
> have nothing against Rusty, I buy parts from him. I just have a personal 
> culture of self-sufficncy. It's just a thing. Any relevant experience is 
> of interest. Any one interested is invited to contact me off list.
>
>
>
>
>
> George Larribeau
> Dallas Texas
>
>
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "dave walton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 12:47 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..
>
>
>>I just used one to remove the front springs on my 99 E300.
>> The local Harbor Freight had it on sale for $56.
>>
>> It took a little wiggling to get it in place, but it handled the job 
>> quite well.
>> However, Harbor Freight no longer lists it on their website, so there
>> may have been too many "incidents". Or they sold out.
>>
>> -Dave Walton
>>
>> On 9/26/07, Rusty Cullens <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>> No.
>>>
>>> Rusty Cullens
>>> BuyMBparts, Inc.
>>> Tel 1-800-741-5252
>>> Fax   770-454-9745
>>>
>>> - Original Message -
>>> From: "dave walton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
>>> Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 1:15 PM
>>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..
>>>
>>>
>>> > Would something like this work?
>>> >
>>> > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Troy-1-Ton-Hydraulic-Coil-Strut-Spring-Compressor-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35625QQihZ003QQitemZ130155502475QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
>>> >
>>> > -Dave Walton
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > On 9/26/07, Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >> Rusty Cullens wrote:
>>> >> >
>>> >> > You know that we rent the Klann spring compressor for $75.00?
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >> I would not consider fabricating this one.
>>> >> Klann is the factory tool. Costs many hundreds of $$$.
>>> >> SIR is tolerable as a cheap substitute, costs a few hundred.
>>> >> No idea if KD is up to the task, but if it's got the two
>>> >> swinging hook arms on each end, I'd avoid it. The right tool
>>> >> has solid plates to hold the spring, which is far more
>>> >> powerful than the usual automotive spring.
>>> >>
>>> >> I'd take it to an indy who owns a Klann or give Rusty a call and DIY.
>>> >>
>>> >> ___
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>>> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>>> >>
>>> >
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>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>
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>>
> 



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Re: [MBZ] Getting taken by mechanic currently

2007-09-26 Thread Mitch Haley


OK Don wrote:
> 
> Has he done anything to verify that the head is still OK (leak down
> test)? If not, I'd be leery of spending $910 on it, to find out that
> you also need a new head.

Autozone has radiator pump/gauge pressure testers for loan.

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Re: [MBZ] Getting taken by mechanic currently

2007-09-26 Thread Redghost
My shop would not warrantee the part, but did back their labor to  
install.  I just told them I had world pac drop ship to me.  They  
could not compete on cost there, so I happily paid the labor, since I  
screwed up the work in the first place.

clay



On 26 Sep 2007, at 11:58, Allan Streib wrote:

> Most shops mark up parts 100% that is part of how they make money, and
> why they often refuse to install parts you provide.
>
> Allan
>
> "Zoltan Finks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:
>
>> How does this sound to y'all?
>>
>> About $750 dollars to replace the alternator, and the tensioner  
>> pulley
>> and its shock.
>>
>> and about $160 to replace the thermostat.
>>
>> The alternator the guy wants to sell me is some $350.
>>
>> He won't accept outside parts.
>>
>> Is this price what I should expect?
>>
>> Anybody want to buy an 87 190D?
>>
>> Brian
>
> -- 
> 1983 300D
> 1966 230
>
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Re: [MBZ] Getting taken by mechanic currently

2007-09-26 Thread Redghost
Get a new mechanic

Take the alternator to a rebuild place or just order a NEW one from  
Rusty for half the rebuild cost.  I rebuilt, but should have bought  
new for cost saving.  Did the install my self. No shop labor charge  
or price gouging.

I am sure braindead island has a host of reliable car techs.

clay


On 26 Sep 2007, at 11:53, Zoltan Finks wrote:

> How does this sound to y'all?
>
> About $750 dollars to replace the alternator, and the tensioner pulley
> and its shock.
>
> and about $160 to replace the thermostat.
>
> The alternator the guy wants to sell me is some $350.
>
> He won't accept outside parts.
>
> Is this price what I should expect?
>
> Anybody want to buy an 87 190D?
>
> Brian
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT color laser printing costs

2007-09-26 Thread Wonko the Sane
We have an HP Color Laserjet 2600n. Given that we are a not-for-profit and
not known for spending the big bucks, I suspect that it is good value for
the money.

On 9/26/07, Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Since there is an abundance of IT folks on this list:
>
> What are the best/least expensive to operate color laser printers
> that will do duplex?
> 11x 17 desirable.
> Prefer printers under $2500.
> Does anyone have recent cost per page info of various
> manufacturers/models?
>
> Brother HL-4070CDW Color Laser Printer looks interesting for
> $400  Beats the crap out if the $13k printer I bought 6-7 years ago.
>
> Loren
>
>
>
> Loren Faeth
>
>
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-- 
LT Don
http://don.homelinux.net/~don/
Proudly marching to the beat of a different kettle of fish.

Make a small loan, Make a big difference - Kiva.org
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Re: [MBZ] Getting taken by mechanic currently

2007-09-26 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On 9/26/07, Zoltan Finks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Zoikes, I didn't think that running the needle up to about the red
> mark for a moment or two would put me in that much danger!
>
> Good thought though, on the money.
>
> I really didn't let it dwell at top temp for more than like a minute or so.

A moment or a minute?  Big difference!  The latter is an eternity when
you're talking about overheated aluminum!  BTDT with my car.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo

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Re: [MBZ] Getting taken by mechanic currently

2007-09-26 Thread Zoltan Finks
Zoikes, I didn't think that running the needle up to about the red
mark for a moment or two would put me in that much danger!

Good thought though, on the money.

I really didn't let it dwell at top temp for more than like a minute or so.

Brian

On 9/26/07, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Has he done anything to verify that the head is still OK (leak down
> test)? If not, I'd be leery of spending $910 on it, to find out that
> you also need a new head.
>
> --
> OK Don, KD5NRO
> Norman, OK
> "There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics."
> -Benjamin Disraeli
> '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
>
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Re: [MBZ] Getting taken by mechanic currently

2007-09-26 Thread OK Don
Has he done anything to verify that the head is still OK (leak down
test)? If not, I'd be leery of spending $910 on it, to find out that
you also need a new head.

-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics."
-Benjamin Disraeli
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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[MBZ] OT color laser printing costs

2007-09-26 Thread Loren Faeth
Since there is an abundance of IT folks on this list:

What are the best/least expensive to operate color laser printers 
that will do duplex?
11x 17 desirable.
Prefer printers under $2500.
Does anyone have recent cost per page info of various manufacturers/models?

Brother HL-4070CDW Color Laser Printer looks interesting for 
$400  Beats the crap out if the $13k printer I bought 6-7 years ago.

Loren



Loren Faeth  


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Re: [MBZ] 1987 300D turbo dies on way home...

2007-09-26 Thread R A Bennell
Well, maybe. My younger son plays music that might drown out the sound of the 
motor throwing several rods out
through the oilpan at one time. However, it just makes me wonder if there is 
anything really bad that happened
given the description that the car lost power and coasted to a stop.

As an example, my sister in law once had a Honda Civic. If I recall correctly, 
she parked it and the next time she
went to use it, it would not start. My brother in law and I looked at it and 
ultimately determined that the timing
belt had lost some teeth. It did not hurt the motor. A new belt, and she was 
back on the road. If it had happened
in a different manner, the motor would have been damaged as I believe it was an 
interference engine.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mitch Haley
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 4:05 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1987 300D turbo dies on way home...




R A Bennell wrote:
>
> Does it not seem odd that the car just lost power and coasted to the side of 
> the road if something major broke?

The operator may be one who only notices a problem when the car stops moving.

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Re: [MBZ] Getting taken by mechanic currently

2007-09-26 Thread Tony Wirtel
>
> How does this sound to y'all?
>
> About $750 dollars to replace the alternator, and the tensioner pulley
> and its shock.
>
> and about $160 to replace the thermostat.
>
> The alternator the guy wants to sell me is some $350.
>
> He won't accept outside parts.
>
> Is this price what I should expect?
>
> Anybody want to buy an 87 190D?
>
> Brian
>

I can't remember where the alternator was on my 603 300sdl (that's
assuming they're similar) but on the tensioner, you should be able to
replace it from the top with nothing more than the tools in the trunk.
  This I learned when the car began to shred its belt about 1/2 mile
from the dealer.  Considerate old girl, she was.

Now- the tensioner on a 103 motor car- a whole different kettle of fish.

TOny Wirtel

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Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..

2007-09-26 Thread George Larribeau
Dropping a car on one self from an 'ignorant' spring removal process would 
be extra special stupidly. But hey, ever watch 'Jack Ass' ?? I guess any 
thing is achievable. I've all ready ruled out jacking them in or out  . I've 
done this on other things in the past with mixed results. Another technique 
"not recommended" is to place steel straps around the springs 'while under 
compression using existing suspension, car weight and maybe a jack then 
finding a way to remove them where you still have some protection from 
accidents. The major reason I wont do this here is if it screws up the car 
can have a better day .. oh yea always use some kind of a safety chain to 
limit spring travel if accidentally released and clearly understand the rang 
it could have. Like I said I've been around springs on 'the lose' in the 
past. BTW I have all 10 fingers and toes .I think I've located an internal 
hook type compressor that the ME here at work has used on his Ram Charger.

George Larribeau
Dallas Texas



- Original Message - 
From: "Tom Hargrave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'archer'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 

Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 2:18 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..


> Consider yourself lucky that you were puckering all the way and not
> squashed half way through.
>
> A guy who used to live across the street flew med flight choppers. They
> responded to a call where some guy's car fell on him - no head left to
> speak of.
>
> You can not move fast enough to get out of the way of a falling car!
>
> Thanks, Tom
> 256-656-1924
>
> -Original Message-
> From: "archer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Sent: 9/26/07 1:45 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..
>
> Replaced the ball joints on my '83 300D with two jacks but was puckerin'
> the
> whole time.  Never do it again.
> Gerry
> ---
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Gary Hurst" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> mess with a spring under high pressure, and your demise might be
> sooner
>> than
>> you think.
>> i once removed a spring from a VW rabbit front strut with a $9 spring
>> compressor.  scariest thing i've ever done.
>
>> On 9/26/07, George Larribeau <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>>
>>> I want to find (fabricate if necessary) an adequate spring compressor
> for
>>> my 85 300SD. There is not a hurry but I intend to keep the car until
>>> 'death'
>>> (it's or my own ). I currently do not have an internal type
> compressor.
>>> (I
>>> have an external type for use with struts). KD makes an internal
> type.
>>> Has
>>> any one use on of these?
>>>
>>> I have taken springs out of many other vehicles and know of the
> dangers
>>> involved. ( yes I have seen springs get lose, not a pretty sight).
>>>
>>> George Larribeau
>>> Dallas Texas
>>>
>>>
>>> 1985 300SD 220K
>>> 1987 HD FLHTC 90K, Bent &2 I
>>> 1984 Motoguzzi Cal -2 80K
>>> 1972 Motoguzzi Ambassador LOTS
>>> 1965 Chevy C-10 pick up truck lots of miles 3rd small block ..(Extra
>>> Ugly,but runs)
>>>
>>>
>>> 1993 BMW 323i  125K (Wife's Car)
>>> 1967 BMW R50/2 (Wife's MC, currently in a Basket, Getting Better)
>>> ___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>>
>> ___
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>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1029 - Release Date:
>> 9/24/2007 7:09 PM
>>
>>
>
>
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>
> 



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Re: [MBZ] 1987 300D turbo dies on way home...

2007-09-26 Thread Mitch Haley


R A Bennell wrote:
> 
> Does it not seem odd that the car just lost power and coasted to the side of 
> the road if something major broke? 

The operator may be one who only notices a problem when the car stops moving.

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Re: [MBZ] 1987 300D turbo dies on way home...

2007-09-26 Thread R A Bennell
Does it not seem odd that the car just lost power and coasted to the side of 
the road if something major broke? One
would think that the driver would have noticed and reported some significant 
bang or noise or bucking or something
noteworthy if there was a major malfunction with the engine at speed.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 10:01 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1987 300D turbo dies on way home...


> The engine turns over much quicker I then marked the serpentine
> belt to
> see if it would change position when engine (or starter) was
> engaged the
> belt did not move...

If you definitely hear the starter turning something over, and
not just the unloaded electric motor sound of an uncoupled
starter, then something is broken.  Possibly something very
bad.  Ring gear sheared off the flywheel/TC?  Broken flex
plate?  Broken crank?  Broken timing chain?  Broken key in
front damper/pulley?  No shortcuts here, you're going to
have to have somebody who knows look at it.

You can jump the starter from inside the engine compartment,
I suggest you do that while looking at the cam through the
oil fill hole.  (Or get some help to run the key.)

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Getting taken by mechanic currently

2007-09-26 Thread Mitch Haley


Where's the nearest MBZ dealer?
How much do they want for the parts, and will they let you bring your
own as long as they don't have to redo it for free if your parts fail?
Any bozo at the dealership should be able to handle these jobs, even
if there's no place to plug their computer terminal in.

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Re: [MBZ] Getting taken by mechanic currently

2007-09-26 Thread Curt Raymond

About double what Rusty charges for the alternator.
Either find another mechanic or rustle up several different sources for the 
alt, print 'em and take 'em in with you, preferably when he's busy.
Tell him you don't mind taking it in the behind but you'd like him to lube you 
up first.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 11:53:01 -0700
From: "Zoltan Finks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [MBZ] Getting taken by mechanic currently
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID:
 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

How does this sound to y'all?

About $750 dollars to replace the alternator, and the tensioner pulley
and its shock.

and about $160 to replace the thermostat.

The alternator the guy wants to sell me is some $350.

He won't accept outside parts.

Is this price what I should expect?

Anybody want to buy an 87 190D?

Brian

   
-
Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! 
Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.
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Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..

2007-09-26 Thread Mitch Haley


Rusty Cullens wrote:
> 
> Cost on these now is $965.00 plus shipping. Renting is the only way to go.

That's why I said to hire an independent mechanic with the right tools
(or find a dealer who remembers what a 12x chassis looks like) or rent
yours. I do wish I'd had the spare $$ to buy a Klann when they were
a sub $500 item, but even then it would be cheaper to rent yours once
every five years than to give up the interest income on the purchase money. 

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Warning on Autocraft Titanium A battery from Advance Auto

2007-09-26 Thread Mitch Haley


I bought a 300SD with stuck CC servo drawing 0.4A. It had a five year old
Autozone Duralast group 49 in it. I spent a couple of days driving it
home with no trouble. After I got it home, I ran it dead twice before
I found the electrical problem and took out the climate control fuse
(it was an inline fuseholder, not in the fuse box). The 2nd time
finished off the battery. 
I paid $60 for another one just like it, the new one has a 7 year warranty.
It's in OK shape after 5 years, but doesn't hold a charge in storage as
long as the Interstate in my 190D. I can let the 190D sit for six months,
hook up the battery, glow for ten seconds, and the car starts instantly. 
If I let the 300SD sit six months with the battery unhooked, I have to
charge it. 

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..

2007-09-26 Thread Tom Hargrave
Consider yourself lucky that you were puckering all the way and not
squashed half way through.

A guy who used to live across the street flew med flight choppers. They
responded to a call where some guy's car fell on him - no head left to
speak of.

You can not move fast enough to get out of the way of a falling car!

Thanks, Tom
256-656-1924

-Original Message-
From: "archer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: 9/26/07 1:45 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..

Replaced the ball joints on my '83 300D with two jacks but was puckerin'
the 
whole time.  Never do it again.
Gerry
---
- Original Message - 
From: "Gary Hurst" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> mess with a spring under high pressure, and your demise might be
sooner 
> than
> you think.
> i once removed a spring from a VW rabbit front strut with a $9 spring
> compressor.  scariest thing i've ever done.

> On 9/26/07, George Larribeau <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>> I want to find (fabricate if necessary) an adequate spring compressor
for
>> my 85 300SD. There is not a hurry but I intend to keep the car until 
>> 'death'
>> (it's or my own ). I currently do not have an internal type
compressor. 
>> (I
>> have an external type for use with struts). KD makes an internal
type. 
>> Has
>> any one use on of these?
>>
>> I have taken springs out of many other vehicles and know of the
dangers
>> involved. ( yes I have seen springs get lose, not a pretty sight).
>>
>> George Larribeau
>> Dallas Texas
>>
>>
>> 1985 300SD 220K
>> 1987 HD FLHTC 90K, Bent &2 I
>> 1984 Motoguzzi Cal -2 80K
>> 1972 Motoguzzi Ambassador LOTS
>> 1965 Chevy C-10 pick up truck lots of miles 3rd small block ..(Extra
>> Ugly,but runs)
>>
>>
>> 1993 BMW 323i  125K (Wife's Car)
>> 1967 BMW R50/2 (Wife's MC, currently in a Basket, Getting Better)
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
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>
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>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1029 - Release Date: 
> 9/24/2007 7:09 PM
>
> 


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Re: [MBZ] Getting taken by mechanic currently

2007-09-26 Thread Rick Knoble
>> Anybody want to buy an 87 190D?
>>
>> Brian

Give ya $501.00

Rick Knoble 
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT

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Re: [MBZ] 87 300D did it's job, RIP

2007-09-26 Thread Kevin Kraly
what kind of benz cost $120,000 in 1989?

I think Hendrik was referring to Aussie dollars not USD.

Kevin in Portland, OR
1983 300SD 267Kmi, Ursula
2006 Sprinter PV 1.7Kmi, die Kiste

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Re: [MBZ] Getting taken by mechanic currently

2007-09-26 Thread Tom Hargrave
Makes me glad I'm working on my own stuff.

Tom
www.kegkits.com
 
Original Message
From: Zoltan Finks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: 09/26/07 01:53 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Getting taken by mechanic currently
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
How does this sound to y'all?

About $750 dollars to replace the alternator, and the tensioner pulley
and its shock.

and about $160 to replace the thermostat.

The alternator the guy wants to sell me is some $350.

He won't accept outside parts.

Is this price what I should expect?

Anybody want to buy an 87 190D?

Brian

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Re: [MBZ] Getting taken by mechanic currently

2007-09-26 Thread Allan Streib
Most shops mark up parts 100% that is part of how they make money, and
why they often refuse to install parts you provide.

Allan

"Zoltan Finks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:

> How does this sound to y'all?
>
> About $750 dollars to replace the alternator, and the tensioner pulley
> and its shock.
>
> and about $160 to replace the thermostat.
>
> The alternator the guy wants to sell me is some $350.
>
> He won't accept outside parts.
>
> Is this price what I should expect?
>
> Anybody want to buy an 87 190D?
>
> Brian

-- 
1983 300D
1966 230

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[MBZ] Getting taken by mechanic currently

2007-09-26 Thread Zoltan Finks
How does this sound to y'all?

About $750 dollars to replace the alternator, and the tensioner pulley
and its shock.

and about $160 to replace the thermostat.

The alternator the guy wants to sell me is some $350.

He won't accept outside parts.

Is this price what I should expect?

Anybody want to buy an 87 190D?

Brian

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Re: [MBZ] clunky downshift 300TE

2007-09-26 Thread Bill Ringgold
I am no expert on this, but when I was having that clunk [like someone was
hiding in the trunk with a sledge hammer] it was a vacuum problem.  Went ok
for a year after I got it fixed, but I am not having a rebuilt put in.
BillR
Jacksonville FL
1981 300SD 295k miles 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Hendrik Riessen
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 5:50 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] clunky downshift 300TE

I got a chance to test drive that 300TE that I got my eye on, seemed alright

except for a real clunky 4-3 shift. You know when you are cruising along and

give it a bootfull, usually the downshift should be smooth but in this car 
it is real neck snapping clunky.
I am guessing something is a bit sticky in the box somewhere because all the

other shifts are normal and as expected.
Experience preferred but guesses accepted. 

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Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..

2007-09-26 Thread archer
Replaced the ball joints on my '83 300D with two jacks but was puckerin' the 
whole time.  Never do it again.
Gerry
---
- Original Message - 
From: "Gary Hurst" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> mess with a spring under high pressure, and your demise might be sooner 
> than
> you think.
> i once removed a spring from a VW rabbit front strut with a $9 spring
> compressor.  scariest thing i've ever done.

> On 9/26/07, George Larribeau <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>> I want to find (fabricate if necessary) an adequate spring compressor for
>> my 85 300SD. There is not a hurry but I intend to keep the car until 
>> 'death'
>> (it's or my own ). I currently do not have an internal type compressor. 
>> (I
>> have an external type for use with struts). KD makes an internal type. 
>> Has
>> any one use on of these?
>>
>> I have taken springs out of many other vehicles and know of the dangers
>> involved. ( yes I have seen springs get lose, not a pretty sight).
>>
>> George Larribeau
>> Dallas Texas
>>
>>
>> 1985 300SD 220K
>> 1987 HD FLHTC 90K, Bent &2 I
>> 1984 Motoguzzi Cal -2 80K
>> 1972 Motoguzzi Ambassador LOTS
>> 1965 Chevy C-10 pick up truck lots of miles 3rd small block ..(Extra
>> Ugly,but runs)
>>
>>
>> 1993 BMW 323i  125K (Wife's Car)
>> 1967 BMW R50/2 (Wife's MC, currently in a Basket, Getting Better)
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1029 - Release Date: 
> 9/24/2007 7:09 PM
>
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Re: [MBZ] Warning on Autocraft Titanium A battery from Advance Auto

2007-09-26 Thread archer
I bought an Autozone battery one year that it was top rated in CU.  It 
lasted well.  I dealt mostly with Autozone for while until they started 
demanding that we write down our name, address, telephone number, etc. when 
we dumped used oil.
Gerry
--
- Original Message - 
From: "Curt Raymond" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 > I don't like our Autozone very much but I like Advance Auto alot less. 
Which is too bad the store LOOKS like it ought to have all kinds of 
good/cool stuff, it just doesn't...
> Anyway on the subject of batteries I used to be stuck on the idea of 
> Diehard as the way to go. Then when the battery in my 240D was conking out 
> just as I was getting rid of it I put in a $60 (vs $140 for the diehard I 
> put in my 300TD) which is still going fine 2 years later (I know the guy 
> who bought the car).
> Heck I could buy the AZ battery twice as often and still be money ahead.
> Marshall contends they're probably the same battery with different names 
> and I tend to agree. The AZ battery was marked with "Made by Johnson 
> Controls".
>
> -Curt

> Tom Hargrave wrote:
>> Modern car batteries are "fill & forget". And because of this, the
> younger
>> guys & gals at the auto stores don't have a clue. They just test &
>> replace.
>
> Gerry:  That seems to be the case, but some stores will give you the
> benefit
> of the doubt and let you show them why a part is defective.
>
>> I suspect that you purchased a battery that had been spilled or
>> incorrectly
>> filled and the problem probably did not occur at Advance Auto. The
>> batteries
>> are manufactured under contract & are just branded with their name.
>
> G: Probably so.  However, If I had bought a Bosch alternator, put it on
> the
> shelf, and then two months later found that it was missing the diode, I
>
> would expect them to replace it with one that had a diode.  If a
> battery is
> missing electrolyte I expect them to replace it with one that was not
> missing electrolyte.  There are stores that will do that sort of thing.
>  The
> store which Advance Auto bought out (Discount Auto) would have.
>
>> It's also possible that your charging system is over charging & the
> dry
>> cells cooked off first. The timing is about right.
>
> G: Actually, my charging system is undercharging (I just put in another
>
> diode) but maybe the cells cooked off anyway.
> I usually buy one of Consumer Reports higher rated batteries.  Should
> have
> gotten a jump at the store and the next day at home and then went and
> bought
> a NAPA which was the top rated battery.  Duh!  Live and learn.
> Gerry


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-26 Thread OK Don
And then there's the challenge issue. If price is no object, then
there is no challenge to overcome when buying new. You get a lot of
satisfaction from turning a POS into a good useful tool, etc.
Heck - some of us get vicarious satisfaction from Jim's exploits!
Reading about them is a lot more fun than "I bought a new genset today
- it works".

On 9/26/07, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > sounds to me that the lesson here is that junk is still junk and ought
> > to be
> > avoided, whatever the price.
>
> If price was no object, I'd have bought a better one, new.
> Junk is often junk because of only a few weak places.  Or
> so I've found.  Sometimes you can correct them.
>
> -- Jim

-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics."
-Benjamin Disraeli
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..

2007-09-26 Thread dave walton
I appreciate the input.
Saying it won't work is different than saying you should not use it.

To be honest, after handling one to do the job, I find it to be
adequately heavy-duty to be used safely. I prefer the quick hydraulic
operation to manually tightening and loosening a bolt.

One man's opinion...

-Dave Walton


On 9/26/07, Gary Hurst <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> mess with a spring under high pressure, and your demise might be sooner than
> you think.
>
> i once removed a spring from a VW rabbit front strut with a $9 spring
> compressor.  scariest thing i've ever done.
>
> On 9/26/07, George Larribeau <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > I want to find (fabricate if necessary) an adequate spring compressor for
> > my 85 300SD. There is not a hurry but I intend to keep the car until 'death'
> > (it's or my own ). I currently do not have an internal type compressor. (I
> > have an external type for use with struts). KD makes an internal type. Has
> > any one use on of these?
> >
> > I have taken springs out of many other vehicles and know of the dangers
> > involved. ( yes I have seen springs get lose, not a pretty sight).
> >
> > George Larribeau
> > Dallas Texas
> >
> >
> > 1985 300SD 220K
> > 1987 HD FLHTC 90K, Bent &2 I
> > 1984 Motoguzzi Cal -2 80K
> > 1972 Motoguzzi Ambassador LOTS
> > 1965 Chevy C-10 pick up truck lots of miles 3rd small block ..(Extra
> > Ugly,but runs)
> >
> >
> > 1993 BMW 323i  125K (Wife's Car)
> > 1967 BMW R50/2 (Wife's MC, currently in a Basket, Getting Better)
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> ___
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>

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Re: [MBZ] What constitutes harmful overheating? 87 190D

2007-09-26 Thread Zoltan Finks
Oh, I guess I assumed that my other post about my alternator going bad
would be related to this one.

Yeah, it was the belt getting thrown - I assume by bad alternator
bearings. Or perhaps the egg came before the chicken, but whatever.

Brian

On 9/26/07, Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Needle in the red zone is bad.
>
> Fix whatever cause the coolant loss, then watch for oil or gas in the
> coolant.  The head, once it gets that hot (and it was MUCH hotter than
> the temp gauge) tends to crack, warp, or collapse.  You will also
> likely get premature head gasket failure.
>
> The side of the highway is the best place.  Scary, perhaps, but you
> have to balance inconvinience with replacing the head.
>
> Peter
>
>
> ___
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Re: [MBZ] CL Detroit 1986 (?) 300d

2007-09-26 Thread OK Don
You caught me - I was looking the pics of the "Chicago '87 300d" that
were posted earlier - wrong car!

On 9/26/07, Kaleb C. Striplin, work <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> how can you tell, there is no pic of the engine.
>

-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics."
-Benjamin Disraeli
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..

2007-09-26 Thread Gary Hurst
mess with a spring under high pressure, and your demise might be sooner than
you think.

i once removed a spring from a VW rabbit front strut with a $9 spring
compressor.  scariest thing i've ever done.

On 9/26/07, George Larribeau <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I want to find (fabricate if necessary) an adequate spring compressor for
> my 85 300SD. There is not a hurry but I intend to keep the car until 'death'
> (it's or my own ). I currently do not have an internal type compressor. (I
> have an external type for use with struts). KD makes an internal type. Has
> any one use on of these?
>
> I have taken springs out of many other vehicles and know of the dangers
> involved. ( yes I have seen springs get lose, not a pretty sight).
>
> George Larribeau
> Dallas Texas
>
>
> 1985 300SD 220K
> 1987 HD FLHTC 90K, Bent &2 I
> 1984 Motoguzzi Cal -2 80K
> 1972 Motoguzzi Ambassador LOTS
> 1965 Chevy C-10 pick up truck lots of miles 3rd small block ..(Extra
> Ugly,but runs)
>
>
> 1993 BMW 323i  125K (Wife's Car)
> 1967 BMW R50/2 (Wife's MC, currently in a Basket, Getting Better)
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
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Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..

2007-09-26 Thread Curt Raymond

What to kill yourself with? Absolutely.

Dave remember that everybody on the list is saying something like "the right 
tool costs HUNDREDS of dollars" and "If you don't use the right tool you'll 
DIE".

Do you really want to try a cheapo tool on this? Is your life worth the money.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 13:15:27 -0400
From: "dave walton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Message-ID:
 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Would something like this work?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Troy-1-Ton-Hydraulic-Coil-Strut-Spring-Compressor-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35625QQihZ003QQitemZ130155502475QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

-Dave Walton




   
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Re: [MBZ] Warning on Autocraft Titanium A battery from Advance Auto

2007-09-26 Thread Curt Raymond

I don't like our Autozone very much but I like Advance Auto alot less. Which is 
too bad the store LOOKS like it ought to have all kinds of good/cool stuff, it 
just doesn't...

Anyway on the subject of batteries I used to be stuck on the idea of Diehard as 
the way to go. Then when the battery in my 240D was conking out just as I was 
getting rid of it I put in a $60 (vs $140 for the diehard I put in my 300TD) 
which is still going fine 2 years later (I know the guy who bought the car).
Heck I could buy the AZ battery twice as often and still be money ahead.
Marshall contends they're probably the same battery with different names and I 
tend to agree. The AZ battery was marked with "Made by Johnson Controls".

-Curt

Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 12:46:35 -0400
From: "archer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning on Autocraft Titanium A battery from
 Advance Auto
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
 reply-type=original

Tom Hargrave wrote:
> Modern car batteries are "fill & forget". And because of this, the
 younger
> guys & gals at the auto stores don't have a clue. They just test & 
> replace.

Gerry:  That seems to be the case, but some stores will give you the
 benefit 
of the doubt and let you show them why a part is defective.

> I suspect that you purchased a battery that had been spilled or 
> incorrectly
> filled and the problem probably did not occur at Advance Auto. The 
> batteries
> are manufactured under contract & are just branded with their name.

G: Probably so.  However, If I had bought a Bosch alternator, put it on
 the 
shelf, and then two months later found that it was missing the diode, I
 
would expect them to replace it with one that had a diode.  If a
 battery is 
missing electrolyte I expect them to replace it with one that was not 
missing electrolyte.  There are stores that will do that sort of thing.
  The 
store which Advance Auto bought out (Discount Auto) would have.

> It's also possible that your charging system is over charging & the
 dry
> cells cooked off first. The timing is about right.

G: Actually, my charging system is undercharging (I just put in another
 
diode) but maybe the cells cooked off anyway.
I usually buy one of Consumer Reports higher rated batteries.  Should
 have 
gotten a jump at the store and the next day at home and then went and
 bought 
a NAPA which was the top rated battery.  Duh!  Live and learn.
Gerry 

   
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Re: [MBZ] What constitutes harmful overheating? 87 190D

2007-09-26 Thread Curt Raymond

Any overheating is harmful overheating. Thats why its OVERheating.
The coolant turns to steam, expands 6x (or more I don't really remember) and 
breaks things.

Anyway should this happen in the future remember that with just a dead 
alternator you're actually in pretty good shape. A few years ago the waterpump 
siezed in my Dodge Dakota and I managed to drive another 15 miles (took hours) 
to safety.
The trick is to shut the car off before it gets too hot. I'd run my truck up a 
hill, kill the engine and coast down the other side. Of course sometimes I 
didn't get all the way up the hill so I'd kill it in motion and roll until it 
stopped, then let it cool and continue.

That was 6 years (and about 100,000 miles) ago and I've seen no ill effects. 
But I made sure the temp never even nudged the red...

-Curt

Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2007 22:56:02 -0700
From: "Zoltan Finks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [MBZ] What constitutes harmful overheating? 87 190D
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID:
 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

I must say that I am very thankful that this breakdown has been on par
with about every one I have ever had in terms of fortuitousness.

I looked down and noticed several of the dummy lights glowing. I then
saw the engine temperature rising shockingly fast.

I threw it in neutral and shut it off as I coasted at around 45 - 50
mph down a long hill. Then started it again to get up a hill, and
watched the temp approach the 120 mark and the little red mark.

I may have been unwise, but I wanted to get it off the highway and to
a safe place.

By the time I shut the thing off and rolled to a stop, the gauge was
just about touching that top temp reading (120, right?). But I did not
let it run for any length of time at that temp.

So how bad is what I've done? I mean really, not idealistically.

I know that these engines are at least somewhat prone to head gasket
failures, aren't they? But I would imagine that like any engine, it
can take being badly overheated several times throughout its life.

Brian

   
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Re: [MBZ] Warning on Autocraft Titanium A battery from Advance Auto

2007-09-26 Thread archer
> On 9/26/07, archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> I usually buy one of Consumer Reports higher rated batteries.  Should 
>> have
>> gotten a jump at the store and the next day at home and then went and 
>> bought
>> a NAPA which was the top rated battery.  Duh!  Live and learn.
>
> Gerry, which NAPA line did CR recommend (I assume the store sells a
> couple different varieties at different price levels)?  I have been
> buying Autozone red top batteries on Dave Meimann's recommendation on
> the list but am not particularly impressed with them.  The one in my
> 300D is getting wheezy after only two or three Oregon winters.
> Alex Chamberlain
> '87 300D Turbo et al.
--
Group 65 lists a NAPA 84 Select 8465 as the top pick, then Duralast 65-DL, 
then Everstart MAXX-65N.

Group 34/78 lists Everstart MAXX-1N as top pick, then Nascar XLT Performance 
Series NXDT34, then AC Delco Professional 78DT-6YR.

Those are the batteries for the largest cars but I seem to remember that MB 
diesels take a special group which is not listed.

CU also says Everstart, AC Delco, Napa, and Nascar are best for cold 
climates.

CU goes into a lot of detail about the various batteries, but those seem to 
be the best choices.

Good luck,
Gerry 


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Re: [MBZ] 300SD Fuel Line

2007-09-26 Thread Fred Johnson
Dave,  I pass by a Harbor Freight on the way home and
will look tonight.  I was also thinking about the
overlap thing.  

While I don't do WVO, I do get free 3-5 gallon pails
of vegetable oil occasionally, food service business. 
I add a gallon or two at each fill up to stretch the
$3.20/gal. diesel.  It's enough to leave a nice aroma
and it's free.

Fred


--- dave walton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> You still have to do something with the ends. You
> can order nylon that
> will fit snugly inside the existing flexible tubing
> at the gas tank
> and lift pump - the same way the current metal
> tubing does.
> I use a larger size tubing and did the overlap thing
> with the existing
> hose, rather than fit inside it. I'm running on WVO
> and the larger
> tubing helps the thicker liquid flow better.
> 
> I have found the Harbor Freight digital caliper to
> be helpful when
> measuring for tubing size:
>
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47257
> The 6" is on sale for $16 online. If you print the
> page and show it to
> the local store, they will match the price.
> 
> -Dave Walton
> 
> On 9/26/07, Fred Johnson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
> > I would be able to replace the complete line with
> > Nylon 6 tubing if I follow your logic.  I'd prefer
> > this to patching.
> >
> >
> > --- dave walton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > > You need a somewhat rigid tubing to hold up to
> the
> > > vacuum created by
> > > the lift pump on the engine. I've had good luck
> with
> > > Nylon-6 tubing
> > > from Mcmaster.com . I use a more flexible tubing
> to
> > > join the nylon to
> > > the existing metal in a butt-joint by covering
> both
> > > pieces and using
> > > spring clamps. I prefer spring clamps because
> they
> > > apply constant
> > > pressure as the metal tubing expands and
> contracts,
> > > and as the softer
> > > tubing deforms over time. When I've used
> worm-gear
> > > hose clamps, I've
> > > had to go back and tighten them up every year or
> so.
> > > If you don't
> > > overlap, use compression fittings.
> > >
> > > -Dave Walton
> > >
> > > On 9/26/07, Fred Johnson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > wrote:
> > > > In replacing my rear breake line I also found
> > > several
> > > > leaks in the fuel lines where the rubber
> buffers
> > > are.
> > > > The buffers are great places for dirt and
> water to
> > > be
> > > > held in place to corrode these lines over
> time.
> > > >
> > > > For the past month I've been seraching out
> fuel
> > > lines.
> > > >  Mercedes no longer makes them.  None but one
> > > > dealership in the area had any idea on how to
> > > proceed.
> > > >  This morning I spoke to a tech who said I'm
> not
> > > > working with a lot of pressure in the lines
> > > because
> > > > the fuel pump is on the engine not the fuel
> tank,
> > > so I
> > > > should be able to cut out the corroded
> sections
> > > and
> > > > replace with fuel hose.
> > > >
> > > > What is the lists collective wisdom on this? 
> It
> > > would
> > > > be a lot easier than hunting down the correct
> size
> > > > line and bending to fit.  And so far I've run
> into
> > > > dead end after dead end to finf replacement
> line.
> > > >
> > > > The good news (OT), I replaced the steering
> rack
> > > > bushing on the Alfa last weekend.  Now steers
> as
> > > > sharply as I thought it should.
> > > >
> > > > Fred Johnson
> > > > Chicago
> > > > 1977 240D
> > > > 1983 300SD
> > > > 1991 A/R 164L
> > > > 1996 Civic
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

> > > > Got a little couch potato?
> > > > Check out fun summer activities for kids.
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=summer+activities+for+kids&cs=bz
> > > >
> > > > ___
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> > >
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> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >  
>

> > Check out the hottest 2008 models today at Yahoo!
> Autos.
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> >
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Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..

2007-09-26 Thread dave walton
I just used one to remove the front springs on my 99 E300.
The local Harbor Freight had it on sale for $56.

It took a little wiggling to get it in place, but it handled the job quite well.
However, Harbor Freight no longer lists it on their website, so there
may have been too many "incidents". Or they sold out.

-Dave Walton

On 9/26/07, Rusty Cullens <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> No.
>
> Rusty Cullens
> BuyMBparts, Inc.
> Tel 1-800-741-5252
> Fax   770-454-9745
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "dave walton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 1:15 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..
>
>
> > Would something like this work?
> >
> > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Troy-1-Ton-Hydraulic-Coil-Strut-Spring-Compressor-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35625QQihZ003QQitemZ130155502475QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
> >
> > -Dave Walton
> >
> >
> > On 9/26/07, Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >> Rusty Cullens wrote:
> >> >
> >> > You know that we rent the Klann spring compressor for $75.00?
> >>
> >>
> >> I would not consider fabricating this one.
> >> Klann is the factory tool. Costs many hundreds of $$$.
> >> SIR is tolerable as a cheap substitute, costs a few hundred.
> >> No idea if KD is up to the task, but if it's got the two
> >> swinging hook arms on each end, I'd avoid it. The right tool
> >> has solid plates to hold the spring, which is far more
> >> powerful than the usual automotive spring.
> >>
> >> I'd take it to an indy who owns a Klann or give Rusty a call and DIY.
> >>
> >> ___
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> >>
> >
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> >
>
>
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..

2007-09-26 Thread Rusty Cullens
No.

Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
Tel 1-800-741-5252
Fax   770-454-9745

- Original Message - 
From: "dave walton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 1:15 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..


> Would something like this work?
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Troy-1-Ton-Hydraulic-Coil-Strut-Spring-Compressor-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35625QQihZ003QQitemZ130155502475QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
>
> -Dave Walton
>
>
> On 9/26/07, Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Rusty Cullens wrote:
>> >
>> > You know that we rent the Klann spring compressor for $75.00?
>>
>>
>> I would not consider fabricating this one.
>> Klann is the factory tool. Costs many hundreds of $$$.
>> SIR is tolerable as a cheap substitute, costs a few hundred.
>> No idea if KD is up to the task, but if it's got the two
>> swinging hook arms on each end, I'd avoid it. The right tool
>> has solid plates to hold the spring, which is far more
>> powerful than the usual automotive spring.
>>
>> I'd take it to an indy who owns a Klann or give Rusty a call and DIY.
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>
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> 




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Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..

2007-09-26 Thread Rusty Cullens
Cost on these now is $965.00 plus shipping. Renting is the only way to go.

Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
Tel 1-800-741-5252
Fax   770-454-9745

- Original Message - 
From: "Mitch Haley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..


> 
> 
> Rusty Cullens wrote:
>> 
>> You know that we rent the Klann spring compressor for $75.00?
> 
> 
> I would not consider fabricating this one.
> Klann is the factory tool. Costs many hundreds of $$$.
> SIR is tolerable as a cheap substitute, costs a few hundred. 
> No idea if KD is up to the task, but if it's got the two
> swinging hook arms on each end, I'd avoid it. The right tool
> has solid plates to hold the spring, which is far more
> powerful than the usual automotive spring. 
> 
> I'd take it to an indy who owns a Klann or give Rusty a call and DIY.
> 
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[MBZ] 126 PS Pump leak Help/Thanks

2007-09-26 Thread Dan Weeks
Thanks to whoever suggested I check the front pump seal. That's great  
news. Will do. Sorry I lost the message with your name. Much  
appreciate it!

Dan
82 300SD 293k



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Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..

2007-09-26 Thread dave walton
Would something like this work?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Troy-1-Ton-Hydraulic-Coil-Strut-Spring-Compressor-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35625QQihZ003QQitemZ130155502475QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

-Dave Walton


On 9/26/07, Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
> Rusty Cullens wrote:
> >
> > You know that we rent the Klann spring compressor for $75.00?
>
>
> I would not consider fabricating this one.
> Klann is the factory tool. Costs many hundreds of $$$.
> SIR is tolerable as a cheap substitute, costs a few hundred.
> No idea if KD is up to the task, but if it's got the two
> swinging hook arms on each end, I'd avoid it. The right tool
> has solid plates to hold the spring, which is far more
> powerful than the usual automotive spring.
>
> I'd take it to an indy who owns a Klann or give Rusty a call and DIY.
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>

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Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..

2007-09-26 Thread Rich Thomas
Rent Rusty's when you need it.  Cheap, easy, fast and it is the proper 
tool that will not kill you.

--R

George Larribeau wrote:
> I want to find (fabricate if necessary) an adequate spring compressor for my 
> 85 300SD. There is not a hurry but I intend to keep the car until 'death' 
> (it's or my own ). I currently do not have an internal type compressor. (I 
> have an external type for use with struts). KD makes an internal type. Has 
> any one use on of these? 
>
> I have taken springs out of many other vehicles and know of the dangers 
> involved. ( yes I have seen springs get lose, not a pretty sight).
>
> George Larribeau
> Dallas Texas
>  
>  
> 1985 300SD 220K
> 1987 HD FLHTC 90K, Bent &2 I
> 1984 Motoguzzi Cal -2 80K
> 1972 Motoguzzi Ambassador LOTS
> 1965 Chevy C-10 pick up truck lots of miles 3rd small block ..(Extra
>  Ugly,but runs)
>  
>  
> 1993 BMW 323i  125K (Wife's Car)
> 1967 BMW R50/2 (Wife's MC, currently in a Basket, Getting Better)
> ___
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>
>
>   

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Re: [MBZ] 126 chassis front spring removal ..

2007-09-26 Thread Mitch Haley


Rusty Cullens wrote:
> 
> You know that we rent the Klann spring compressor for $75.00?


I would not consider fabricating this one.
Klann is the factory tool. Costs many hundreds of $$$.
SIR is tolerable as a cheap substitute, costs a few hundred. 
No idea if KD is up to the task, but if it's got the two
swinging hook arms on each end, I'd avoid it. The right tool
has solid plates to hold the spring, which is far more
powerful than the usual automotive spring. 

I'd take it to an indy who owns a Klann or give Rusty a call and DIY.

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Re: [MBZ] Warning on Autocraft Titanium A battery from Advance Auto

2007-09-26 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On 9/26/07, archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I usually buy one of Consumer Reports higher rated batteries.  Should have
> gotten a jump at the store and the next day at home and then went and bought
> a NAPA which was the top rated battery.  Duh!  Live and learn.

Gerry, which NAPA line did CR recommend (I assume the store sells a
couple different varieties at different price levels)?  I have been
buying Autozone red top batteries on Dave Meimann's recommendation on
the list but am not particularly impressed with them.  The one in my
300D is getting wheezy after only two or three Oregon winters.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo et al.

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Re: [MBZ] 300SD Fuel Line

2007-09-26 Thread dave walton
You still have to do something with the ends. You can order nylon that
will fit snugly inside the existing flexible tubing at the gas tank
and lift pump - the same way the current metal tubing does.
I use a larger size tubing and did the overlap thing with the existing
hose, rather than fit inside it. I'm running on WVO and the larger
tubing helps the thicker liquid flow better.

I have found the Harbor Freight digital caliper to be helpful when
measuring for tubing size:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47257
The 6" is on sale for $16 online. If you print the page and show it to
the local store, they will match the price.

-Dave Walton

On 9/26/07, Fred Johnson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I would be able to replace the complete line with
> Nylon 6 tubing if I follow your logic.  I'd prefer
> this to patching.
>
>
> --- dave walton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > You need a somewhat rigid tubing to hold up to the
> > vacuum created by
> > the lift pump on the engine. I've had good luck with
> > Nylon-6 tubing
> > from Mcmaster.com . I use a more flexible tubing to
> > join the nylon to
> > the existing metal in a butt-joint by covering both
> > pieces and using
> > spring clamps. I prefer spring clamps because they
> > apply constant
> > pressure as the metal tubing expands and contracts,
> > and as the softer
> > tubing deforms over time. When I've used worm-gear
> > hose clamps, I've
> > had to go back and tighten them up every year or so.
> > If you don't
> > overlap, use compression fittings.
> >
> > -Dave Walton
> >
> > On 9/26/07, Fred Johnson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > wrote:
> > > In replacing my rear breake line I also found
> > several
> > > leaks in the fuel lines where the rubber buffers
> > are.
> > > The buffers are great places for dirt and water to
> > be
> > > held in place to corrode these lines over time.
> > >
> > > For the past month I've been seraching out fuel
> > lines.
> > >  Mercedes no longer makes them.  None but one
> > > dealership in the area had any idea on how to
> > proceed.
> > >  This morning I spoke to a tech who said I'm not
> > > working with a lot of pressure in the lines
> > because
> > > the fuel pump is on the engine not the fuel tank,
> > so I
> > > should be able to cut out the corroded sections
> > and
> > > replace with fuel hose.
> > >
> > > What is the lists collective wisdom on this?  It
> > would
> > > be a lot easier than hunting down the correct size
> > > line and bending to fit.  And so far I've run into
> > > dead end after dead end to finf replacement line.
> > >
> > > The good news (OT), I replaced the steering rack
> > > bushing on the Alfa last weekend.  Now steers as
> > > sharply as I thought it should.
> > >
> > > Fred Johnson
> > > Chicago
> > > 1977 240D
> > > 1983 300SD
> > > 1991 A/R 164L
> > > 1996 Civic
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> 
> > > Got a little couch potato?
> > > Check out fun summer activities for kids.
> > >
> >
> http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=summer+activities+for+kids&cs=bz
> > >
> > > ___
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> > http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > >
> > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > >
> >
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> > >
> >
> > ___
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> >
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> >
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
>
>
>
>   
> 
> Check out the hottest 2008 models today at Yahoo! Autos.
> http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html
>
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>

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Re: [MBZ] 300SD Fuel Line

2007-09-26 Thread Redghost
I agree with the tech.  Gump has rubber lines connecting to the solid  
lines at the tank, and then more rubber to make the bend up to the  
engine from under the car.  No low tech return line rubber, but  
hardier stuff like the cigar hose is made of.  If it is exposed to  
the elements in a harmful way, I would shield it though

clay


On 26 Sep 2007, at 06:25, Fred Johnson wrote:

> In replacing my rear breake line I also found several
> leaks in the fuel lines where the rubber buffers are.
> The buffers are great places for dirt and water to be
> held in place to corrode these lines over time.
>
> For the past month I've been seraching out fuel lines.
>  Mercedes no longer makes them.  None but one
> dealership in the area had any idea on how to proceed.
>  This morning I spoke to a tech who said I'm not
> working with a lot of pressure in the lines because
> the fuel pump is on the engine not the fuel tank, so I
> should be able to cut out the corroded sections and
> replace with fuel hose.
>
> What is the lists collective wisdom on this?  It would
> be a lot easier than hunting down the correct size
> line and bending to fit.  And so far I've run into
> dead end after dead end to finf replacement line.
>
> The good news (OT), I replaced the steering rack
> bushing on the Alfa last weekend.  Now steers as
> sharply as I thought it should.
>
> Fred Johnson
> Chicago
> 1977 240D
> 1983 300SD
> 1991 A/R 164L
> 1996 Civic
>
>
>
> __ 
> __
> Got a little couch potato?
> Check out fun summer activities for kids.
> http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=summer+activities 
> +for+kids&cs=bz
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] Warning on Autocraft Titanium A battery from Advance Auto

2007-09-26 Thread archer
Tom Hargrave wrote:
> Modern car batteries are "fill & forget". And because of this, the younger
> guys & gals at the auto stores don't have a clue. They just test & 
> replace.

Gerry:  That seems to be the case, but some stores will give you the benefit 
of the doubt and let you show them why a part is defective.

> I suspect that you purchased a battery that had been spilled or 
> incorrectly
> filled and the problem probably did not occur at Advance Auto. The 
> batteries
> are manufactured under contract & are just branded with their name.

G: Probably so.  However, If I had bought a Bosch alternator, put it on the 
shelf, and then two months later found that it was missing the diode, I 
would expect them to replace it with one that had a diode.  If a battery is 
missing electrolyte I expect them to replace it with one that was not 
missing electrolyte.  There are stores that will do that sort of thing.  The 
store which Advance Auto bought out (Discount Auto) would have.

> It's also possible that your charging system is over charging & the dry
> cells cooked off first. The timing is about right.

G: Actually, my charging system is undercharging (I just put in another 
diode) but maybe the cells cooked off anyway.
I usually buy one of Consumer Reports higher rated batteries.  Should have 
gotten a jump at the store and the next day at home and then went and bought 
a NAPA which was the top rated battery.  Duh!  Live and learn.
Gerry 


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Re: [MBZ] Warning on Autocraft Titanium A battery from Advance Auto

2007-09-26 Thread archer

- Original Message - 
From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 8:50 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Warning on Autocraft Titanium A battery from Advance Auto


>> Only two of the six battery cells were 'way low on electrolyte.  I
>> think
>> they were not filled at the factory.  Haven't been low since I filled
>> them
>> with water but their specific gravity is lower than the other four
>> cells.
>
> And you are assuming they had the correct amount of ACID put
> in at the factory, why?  My guess is that you just diluted those
> two cells.
> -- Jim

No.  After running it two months I assumed it was either too little acid or 
the cells were defective and running hot/boiling out the electrolyte or 
both.  I don't know what the capacity of each cell is, so it's just a guess 
as to whether the electrolyte is low enough to cause a drop in sp.gr.  If I 
had been using my head I would have taken it back to the store before adding 
water to the cells, but I'm glad I didn't because the manager refused to 
open the cells when I did take it back and refused to even talk about the 
cells being low on electrolyte.  He said the batteries were sealed at the 
factory, they had the correct amount of electrolyte, and why did I think two 
were low?  I told him I looked and knew they were low, and thought they had 
not put enough electrolyte in at the factory.  He got nasty then and made a 
little speech about how this is the computer age and everything is tested 
electronically.  He did a voltage and load test on the battery and said 
there was nothing wrong with it and he would not replace it.  SoI wait 
until the battery goes bad and then take it back, I suppose.
Discount Auto, a regional chain, was pretty cooperative about this sort of 
thing and I bought batteries and such from them for years.  Then, after 
Advance Auto bought them out, I kept right on trading there; buying oil, 
ATF, etc.  This little episode was informative.  I deal with Autozone or 
NAPA from now on.
Gerry 


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Re: [MBZ] 87 300D did it's job, RIP

2007-09-26 Thread Redghost
It is a good deal for the person willing to work the problems out.  I  
suspect jim cathey will be able to find the parts to make it whole,  
where as I seem to only find really old parts cheap.

clay

On 25 Sep 2007, at 23:27, Zoltan Finks wrote:

> There is one for sale that you can find in the Craigslist posting  
> sent by Clay.
>
> Here's the url:
>
> http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/431419769.html
>
> Rear end damage. Don't know if it's a good deal or not, just  
> noticed it.
>
> Brian
>
> On 9/25/07, Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> Kaleb:
>>
>> I'm in Evansville, IN.  Gotta settle with the insurance (through the
>> other driver's) and don't want to promise anything yet.
>>
>> I do need another 87 300D though.
>>
>> Peter
>>
>>
>> ___
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>>
>
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Re: [MBZ] 300SD Fuel Line

2007-09-26 Thread Fred Johnson
I would be able to replace the complete line with
Nylon 6 tubing if I follow your logic.  I'd prefer
this to patching.

  
--- dave walton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> You need a somewhat rigid tubing to hold up to the
> vacuum created by
> the lift pump on the engine. I've had good luck with
> Nylon-6 tubing
> from Mcmaster.com . I use a more flexible tubing to
> join the nylon to
> the existing metal in a butt-joint by covering both
> pieces and using
> spring clamps. I prefer spring clamps because they
> apply constant
> pressure as the metal tubing expands and contracts,
> and as the softer
> tubing deforms over time. When I've used worm-gear
> hose clamps, I've
> had to go back and tighten them up every year or so.
> If you don't
> overlap, use compression fittings.
> 
> -Dave Walton
> 
> On 9/26/07, Fred Johnson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
> > In replacing my rear breake line I also found
> several
> > leaks in the fuel lines where the rubber buffers
> are.
> > The buffers are great places for dirt and water to
> be
> > held in place to corrode these lines over time.
> >
> > For the past month I've been seraching out fuel
> lines.
> >  Mercedes no longer makes them.  None but one
> > dealership in the area had any idea on how to
> proceed.
> >  This morning I spoke to a tech who said I'm not
> > working with a lot of pressure in the lines
> because
> > the fuel pump is on the engine not the fuel tank,
> so I
> > should be able to cut out the corroded sections
> and
> > replace with fuel hose.
> >
> > What is the lists collective wisdom on this?  It
> would
> > be a lot easier than hunting down the correct size
> > line and bending to fit.  And so far I've run into
> > dead end after dead end to finf replacement line.
> >
> > The good news (OT), I replaced the steering rack
> > bushing on the Alfa last weekend.  Now steers as
> > sharply as I thought it should.
> >
> > Fred Johnson
> > Chicago
> > 1977 240D
> > 1983 300SD
> > 1991 A/R 164L
> > 1996 Civic
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

> > Got a little couch potato?
> > Check out fun summer activities for kids.
> >
>
http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=summer+activities+for+kids&cs=bz
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >
>
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> 
> ___
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
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> 



  

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