Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread Kevin
This was going to be my suggestion as well. Check parts that could wear
before assuming someone was stupid. If the parts are broken, you'll need to
replace them anyways.

That failing, if you have a complete prop shaft that is known to be good,
I'd probably swap that in rather than trying to remember enough high
school math to calculate out the number of wrong attempts I'll have to make
before I get the thing to work.

Jim balanced his at home. I think I'd rig up some sort of driveshaft launcher
to torment the neighbors long before I did something that creative AND useful.


On Tue, Apr 29, 2008 at 12:54:43AM -0500, Harry Watkins wrote:
 Check the u-joint close up.  Mine was bad but it took a close look to see
 where it cracked open.  I would select A if in your shoes, then do B if
 I ever got in a tight for another one.
 
 Harry

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Re: [MBZ] (OT) general motors and their old tricks (my old story, but i tell it every time they upset me)

2008-04-29 Thread LWB250

--- LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hyundai has some excellent products -

I looked carefully at the luxury sedan they make in
the $25k range, and I'll say that it's a fantastic car
for the money and very well built.  Add to that the
100k warranty and you've got a fairly good long-term
auto, IMHO.

Dan





  

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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread LWB250
You know how much I struggled with the driveshaft
vibration in the 250LWB - that went on for over two
years.

First, give it a good visual inspection - drive shafts
don't go bad.  If you find the offending part, like
a bad U joint, mark everything like a maniac and take
it somewhere to get the job done.

Look carefully for the alignment arrows on all the
parts.  If some dillweed had it out and wasn't paying
attention, they could have reassembled it incorrectly.
 Look at the manuals for pictures of the arrows -
they're nearly impossible to see unless you know what
you're looking for.

I would caution you against the just one more spline
and I've got it approach, unless you have the
patience of Job and a good part of Eternity available.

Dan (BTDT and NEVER want to go back)


--- Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Got a bad driveshaft vibration going down the
 highway.  Would it be best 
 to A: just swap in a complete driveshaft from a
 different car, B: pull 
 driveshaft and have it balanced, or C: just keep
 moving the center 
 section one notch at a time till it gets lined back
 up like it should 
 be.  Apparantly it was seperated at some point and
 not marked.
 -- 



  

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Re: [MBZ] A continuation of Challenges

2008-04-29 Thread Dave H...

Peter,

Finally got it out and did most of the work I wanted to get accomplished.

It looks as though it will have to come back out though (I purposely had not 
put it all the way in during the testing phase) because my soldering to by 
pass the lighting rheostat was obviously not up to par.:)Still no 
dash light even though an individual testing of all the bulbs proved them to 
be good.

Another (maybe next) weekend's challenge.   :)


Dave H...
--
From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 8:38 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] A continuation of Challenges

 WhoooHoo!  Got a free afternoon?

 Yes, there is a knob on that devil, and unless you take it off, you
 cannot remove the cluster intact (as I assume you want to do).

 Take off the parking brake bracket, and with the front seat all the
 way back, you can stuff yourself in there are see up to where it is.
 I suggest a rubber grippy pad (the ones for seniors to open jar lids)
 as getting it to turn is a real pain.  Once you get it off, it will
 fall down and hit you in the face, keep your mouth closed

 The cluster will then simple pull out of the dash just like the
 W115.  Do not crimp the oil pressure gauge line OR the temperature
 sender line, they are both mechanical.

 Worst part is that you MUST put the blasted thing back in the same
 way, or the cluster will fall out all the time.  That's even more
 fun, trying to get the knob to start back onto the threads.

 I suppose you might be able to reach the knob through the dash if you
 take the heater controls out, but it's much easier to get to it from
 underneath, I've done both jobs, and I'd go in from underneath.

 I hope you have small arms -- if not a heavy cotton shirt is in order
 to keep the abrasions to a minimum.

 If not done recently, you need to replace all the rubber bits in the
 fuel injection system too -- I discovered that I was missing one
 injector seal completely!

 Peter


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Re: [MBZ] OT Steam engine hybrid

2008-04-29 Thread MG
Actually there were quite a few condensing steam train engines starting 
from way back in the 1700 all the way to the end of the steam era. Many 
of them were used in service but none were really successful, not 
because of the condenser size but because of the amount of dirt stirred 
up by the train as it moved. This caused too much clogging of the 
condensers and the use was mostly discontinued unless there was an 
overriding problem with getting water as in some of the desert regions 
in Africa where there were some of these in use from the 50s till some 
time in the 60s. There were even some here in the states but they were 
more a demonstration then a real useful thing and I think they were 
scrapped after less then a year and the steel used for the war effort.

Manfred




Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 20:18:14 -0500
From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED]

The heat exchanger to recover the exhaust is going to be half the
size of the car, at least.  That's why no one ever made one, even for
locomotives.  Ships get to use the ocean, which works a whole lot
better, and the condensers are still pretty large.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] (OT) general motors and their old tricks (my old story, but i tell it every time they upset me)

2008-04-29 Thread pm7088
A Lodge brother has one, about 2003 or so.  Has 125Kmi on it, claims Toyota 
reliability, great dealer in this area, price speaks for itself.

Pete
 -- Original message --
From: LWB250 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 --- LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Hyundai has some excellent products -
 
 I looked carefully at the luxury sedan they make in
 the $25k range, and I'll say that it's a fantastic car
 for the money and very well built.  Add to that the
 100k warranty and you've got a fairly good long-term
 auto, IMHO.
 
 Dan
 
 
 
 
 
   
 
 
 Be a better friend, newshound, and 
 know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.  
 http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
 
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Re: [MBZ] W123 lightening

2008-04-29 Thread Curt Raymond

Okay I'm hip, it won't save enough weight to make anything, 60# isn't worth it.

But did anybody else notice its a $400 car? How much could I possibly devalue 
it? I'm below Kaleb money already.

To recap:
I bought it in 2001 (the day before the fall of Baghdad) for $1500. Drove it on 
my commute, racked up something like 50,000 miles.
In 2005 I sold it for $800. The new owner puts on a paltry 6000 or so miles.
Now I'm buying it back for $400 to have as a spare car and fuel saver for the 
wife.
Yes it'll cost more to run than a 25mpg gasser but the pickup shes driving now 
is only about a 15mpg gasser so it'll save money overall...
And besides what else can I get for $400 that comes with MY ownership records?
Sure it needs an exhaust, so it'll be $700, still, what can I buy for that?

-Curt


Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 19:53:49 -0500
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 lightening
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

I dont see where you would save any mileage really, not going to make 
that much of a weight difference.  Would devalue the car more than you 
would ever save.

   
-
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[MBZ] you can easily find numerous (maybe 1000 or so?)

2008-04-29 Thread Donald Snook
Gary,

Have you tried talking to the Service Manager at your local Saturn dealer? (I 
would guess you have). The next step is to tell him you want to talk to the 
Zone Representative.  GM used to have zone for individual brands. But, I think 
they have consolidated some of these. There is probably a zone rep for Saturn 
in Atlanta.  Your car has so few miles on it, you can ask for a goodwill 
policy adjustment.  It would help if you have had service done at the dealer.  
Be friendly and cooperative unless the zone rep shoots you down. Then you can 
raise holy hell. You should also try to talk to the dealer (I don't mean the 
New Car Manager or some other lackey). The owner of the dealership should be 
concerned about this. He can put pressure on the zone rep to make you happy.

One thing that may present a problem for you, is that your car has not failed. 
It is still working.  Usually, they won't do anything unless it has actually 
failed.  Is the timing chain making noise?  That might be a way to get it 
fixed.  Can you show paperwork that would document the oil changes?

Donald H. Snook

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Re: [MBZ] I take my 560SL out for a spin.

2008-04-29 Thread Rusty Cullens
and a radiator too.

Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
Tel 1-800-741-5252
Fax   770-454-9745

- Original Message - 
From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 9:14 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] I take my 560SL out for a spin.


 Rusty can sell you a soft top.

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
 Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 7:41 PM
 To: Banned List; mercedes Mailing List; SL Discussion List
 Subject: [MBZ] I take my 560SL out for a spin.

 Pulled the hard top off after figuring out the rube goldburg contraption
 for getting it off.  Geez it really hauls.  Got back home and put the
 soft top up.  Well, its going to need a new soft top.  Got a couple of
 splits in it.  Is this one of those deals you have to take it somewhere
 to have it done?  Im thinking so.  Also will need a new radiator, the
 top neck is cracked, typical.  Still a pretty good deal.
 -- 
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
 http://www.okiebenz.com

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 No virus found in this incoming message.
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[MBZ] Make your own G-force meter

2008-04-29 Thread Rich Thomas
Your 240D needs one of these!

--R

http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2008/04/how_to_make_your_own_gfor.html?CMP=OTC-0D6B48984890
 


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Re: [MBZ] (OT) general motors and their old tricks

2008-04-29 Thread Donald Snook
Larry wrote:

Hyundai has some excellent products

I agree. There are a lot of cars out there that will give 75,000-100,000 of 
trouble free service.  The only problem with a lot of these cars is that they 
will never get 200,000 miles or 300,000 miles.  I don't know whether the new 
Mercedes will do that either. But, I know all of the Mercedes most of us own 
will.


Donald H. Snook




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Re: [MBZ] I take my 560SL out for a spin.

2008-04-29 Thread Rusty Cullens
Yes, he can.

Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
Tel 1-800-741-5252
Fax   770-454-9745

- Original Message - 
From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 9:14 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] I take my 560SL out for a spin.


 Rusty can sell you a soft top.

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
 Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 7:41 PM
 To: Banned List; mercedes Mailing List; SL Discussion List
 Subject: [MBZ] I take my 560SL out for a spin.

 Pulled the hard top off after figuring out the rube goldburg contraption
 for getting it off.  Geez it really hauls.  Got back home and put the
 soft top up.  Well, its going to need a new soft top.  Got a couple of
 splits in it.  Is this one of those deals you have to take it somewhere
 to have it done?  Im thinking so.  Also will need a new radiator, the
 top neck is cracked, typical.  Still a pretty good deal.
 -- 
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
 http://www.okiebenz.com

 ___
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 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG.
 Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.5/1401 - Release Date: 4/28/2008
 7:18 AM


 No virus found in this outgoing message.
 Checked by AVG.
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Re: [MBZ] W123 lightening

2008-04-29 Thread Jim Cathey
 But did anybody else notice its a $400 car? How much could I possibly 
 devalue it? I'm below Kaleb money already.

I bought a $500 car, some may recall.  Sold it for $2500.  Perhaps
could have gotten more if some dumb SOB hand not _removed_ all of
the AC stuff in front, 'cause I could probably have fixed it.  Gina
now has a nice-looking car, but it won't ever have AC unless she's
stupidly extravagant or has some clever friends.  Fortunately she
lives in an area where AC is not needed too often.  See:

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mb240d.html

It still torques me.

 I bought it...for $1500. Drove it...sold it for $800.

When missing parts the sale price is generally lower than otherwise.
So either you lose more or don't gain as much.

 Now I'm buying it back for $400

You get another whack at it!  See if you can run it up higher
this time, when it's time.

 what else can I get for $400 that comes with MY ownership records?

Nada!  For the right price I'd buy back either of the two
MB's I've sold.  (Well, I wouldn't right now, more cars
is the _last_ thing I need!)

 Sure it needs an exhaust, so it'll be $700, still, what can I buy for 
 that?

How badly does it need an exhaust?  I've welded up holes in exhaust
systems before.  No, it doesn't last as long nor work as well as
a new system, but for about $3 and maybe a couple of hours of
time you get a pretty good ROI, if you've got the welder.

I combined two 'bad' exhaust systems for our 190D, and so far
it's working well.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] (OT) general motors and their old tricks (my old story, but i tell it every time they upset me)

2008-04-29 Thread Jim Cathey
 I looked carefully at the luxury sedan they [Hyundai] make
 in the $25k range, and I'll say that it's a fantastic car
 for the money and very well built.

I saw something like a Kia or Hyundai on the road a couple
of years ago that was very attractive.  I had to do a
double-take when I saw the badge.  Worth a look, certainly,
if you're after such a thing.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] I take my 560SL out for a spin.

2008-04-29 Thread Rusty Cullens
Original canvas soft tops are $550.00 from me.


Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
Tel 1-800-741-5252
Fax   770-454-9745

- Original Message - 
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 1:42 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] I take my 560SL out for a spin.


 for getting it off.  Geez it really hauls.  Got back home and put the
 soft top up.  Well, its going to need a new soft top.  Got a couple of
 splits in it.  Is this one of those deals you have to take it somewhere
 to have it done?  Im thinking so.
 
 You're thinking rightly.  A new soft top is something like
 a $1000 bill, and installation is half of it.  Not for the
 faint of heart, or so I'm told.
 
 I've glued umbrella canvas inside the splits on the 380 SL's
 top, which actually looks pretty nice except for the splits.
 (It's a nice dark black, and water beads easily on it.)  I
 used beige canvas inside, and strips of black outside to fill
 the 'gill slits'.  Doesn't look all that bad, and is perfectly
 serviceable.  I used 'Tear Mender' glue, it's great stuff
 for that.
 
 -- Jim
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] I take my 560SL out for a spin.

2008-04-29 Thread Mitch Haley
And if you take your car to Bimby, Rusty can have Tom install your
top for you. ;-)

Rusty Cullens wrote:
 
 Yes, he can.
 
 Rusty Cullens
 BuyMBparts, Inc.
 Tel 1-800-741-5252
 Fax   770-454-9745
 
 - Original Message -
 From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 9:14 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] I take my 560SL out for a spin.
 
  Rusty can sell you a soft top.
 
  Thanks,
  Tom Hargrave
  www.kegkits.com
  256-656-1924
 
 
  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
  Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 7:41 PM
  To: Banned List; mercedes Mailing List; SL Discussion List
  Subject: [MBZ] I take my 560SL out for a spin.
 
  Pulled the hard top off after figuring out the rube goldburg contraption
  for getting it off.  Geez it really hauls.  Got back home and put the
  soft top up.  Well, its going to need a new soft top.  Got a couple of
  splits in it.  Is this one of those deals you have to take it somewhere
  to have it done?  Im thinking so.  Also will need a new radiator, the
  top neck is cracked, typical.  Still a pretty good deal.
  --
  Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
   94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
   89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
   84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
   76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
  http://www.okiebenz.com
 
  ___
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  For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
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  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG.
  Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.5/1401 - Release Date: 4/28/2008
  7:18 AM
 
 
  No virus found in this outgoing message.
  Checked by AVG.
  Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.5/1401 - Release Date: 4/28/2008
  7:18 AM
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Make your own G-force meter

2008-04-29 Thread Jim Cathey
 Your 240D needs one of these!

Does it have an expanded-scale option?  :-)

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Make your own G-force meter

2008-04-29 Thread Rich Thomas
Yes, I think you can make it go to 4 decimal places.

--R

Jim Cathey wrote:
 Your 240D needs one of these!
 

 Does it have an expanded-scale option?  :-)

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] (OT) general motors and their old tricks

2008-04-29 Thread John Robbins
Donald Snook wrote:
 I agree. There are a lot of cars out there that will give
 75,000-100,000 of trouble free service.  The only problem with a lot
 of these cars is that they will never get 200,000 miles or 300,000
 miles.  I don't know whether the new Mercedes will do that either.
 But, I know all of the Mercedes most of us own will.

I'm on my way to finding out!  I'm biased, but I have been very 
impressed with the build quality of the CDI.  I don't know where anyone 
gets the idea that it is plasticy or has poor fit and finish.

John
'05 CDI


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Re: [MBZ] you can easily find numerous (maybe 1000 or so?)

2008-04-29 Thread Gary Hurst
it's a little late once the car fails

On Tue, Apr 29, 2008 at 9:16 AM, Donald Snook [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Gary,

 Have you tried talking to the Service Manager at your local Saturn dealer?
 (I would guess you have). The next step is to tell him you want to talk to
 the Zone Representative.  GM used to have zone for individual brands. But, I
 think they have consolidated some of these. There is probably a zone rep for
 Saturn in Atlanta.  Your car has so few miles on it, you can ask for a
 goodwill policy adjustment.  It would help if you have had service done at
 the dealer.  Be friendly and cooperative unless the zone rep shoots you
 down. Then you can raise holy hell. You should also try to talk to the
 dealer (I don't mean the New Car Manager or some other lackey). The owner of
 the dealership should be concerned about this. He can put pressure on the
 zone rep to make you happy.

 One thing that may present a problem for you, is that your car has not
 failed. It is still working.  Usually, they won't do anything unless it has
 actually failed.  Is the timing chain making noise?  That might be a way to
 get it fixed.  Can you show paperwork that would document the oil changes?

 Donald H. Snook

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Re: [MBZ] you can easily find numerous (maybe 1000 or so?)

2008-04-29 Thread Allan Streib

On another, VW-oriented list, this guy started a thread about how the CV
joints on his new Passat were failing and the dealer was not honoring
the warranty.  Turns out that the dealer had offered to replace the CV
joints, but was going to use with reman parts.  The guy felt they should
be using new parts for warranty work, and they got into a long argument
about it.  Eventually the dealer said you've f-ed around so long and
kept driving the car so now the damage is your fault, and we're not
going cover any of it under warranty.

Various people responded, offering different strategies and advice, but
it eventually became clear that the guy just wanted to bitch about the
dealer, and didn't really want to make any effort at solving his own
problems.

What's going on here?

Allan
--
1983 300D


Gary Hurst [EMAIL PROTECTED] said:
 it's a little late once the car fails
 
 On Tue, Apr 29, 2008 at 9:16 AM, Donald Snook [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Gary,
 
  Have you tried talking to the Service Manager at your local Saturn dealer?
  (I would guess you have). The next step is to tell him you want to talk to
  the Zone Representative.  GM used to have zone for individual brands. But, I
  think they have consolidated some of these. There is probably a zone rep for
  Saturn in Atlanta.  Your car has so few miles on it, you can ask for a
  goodwill policy adjustment.  It would help if you have had service done at
  the dealer.  Be friendly and cooperative unless the zone rep shoots you
  down. Then you can raise holy hell. You should also try to talk to the
  dealer (I don't mean the New Car Manager or some other lackey). The owner of
  the dealership should be concerned about this. He can put pressure on the
  zone rep to make you happy.
 
  One thing that may present a problem for you, is that your car has not
  failed. It is still working.  Usually, they won't do anything unless it has
  actually failed.  Is the timing chain making noise?  That might be a way to
  get it fixed.  Can you show paperwork that would document the oil changes?
 
  Donald H. Snook
 

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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
No its a 87 300SDL

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
 In a message dated 4/28/2008 9:26:31 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
 Got a  bad driveshaft vibration going down the highway.  Would it be best 
 to  A: just swap in a complete driveshaft from a different car, B: pull  
 driveshaft and have it balanced, or C: just keep moving the center  
 section one notch at a time till it gets lined back up like it should  
 be.  Apparantly it was seperated at some point and not  marked.
 
 
 
 kaleb,
  
 If this is your 560, somewhere about 88 they started match marking the two  
 pieces of drive shaft at the factory.  That don't mean yours is assembled  
 right, it could have been assembled by someone with no concern for match  
 marks.  
 You have to have the drive shaft out to see the marks.  Before  removing it, 
 seize the drive shaft near the support bearing and try to move it  up and 
 down. 
  anymore than about an 1/8 of movement means the rubber  support is shot.
  
 Good luck,  
 
 Jim  Friesen
 Phoenix AZ
 79 300SD, 264 K miles 
 98 ML 320, 155 K  miles
 
 
 
 
 **Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car 
 listings at AOL Autos.  
 (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp0030002851)
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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Man that sure seems beyond my rigging skills

Jim Cathey wrote:
 Got a bad driveshaft vibration going down the highway.  Would it be 
 best
 to A: just swap in a complete driveshaft from a different car, B: pull
 driveshaft and have it balanced, or C: just keep moving the center
 section one notch at a time till it gets lined back up like it should
 be.  Apparantly it was seperated at some point and not marked.
 
 You don't say on what.  Past about '80 or so the mark
 is cast into the metal.  C sucks, there's something like
 27 different positions to try and as I've found, it seems
 like there are 26 wrong positions.  Perhaps D?  See:
 
   http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/JSLdline.html
 
 -- Jim
 
 
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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Well this is OK Dons old SDL, he said somebody had it apart and didnt 
put it back right, cant remember all of what he told me.  So by this 
year are the halves supposed to be marked?  That would sure make life 
MUCH easier.

LWB250 wrote:
 You know how much I struggled with the driveshaft
 vibration in the 250LWB - that went on for over two
 years.
 
 First, give it a good visual inspection - drive shafts
 don't go bad.  If you find the offending part, like
 a bad U joint, mark everything like a maniac and take
 it somewhere to get the job done.
 
 Look carefully for the alignment arrows on all the
 parts.  If some dillweed had it out and wasn't paying
 attention, they could have reassembled it incorrectly.
  Look at the manuals for pictures of the arrows -
 they're nearly impossible to see unless you know what
 you're looking for.
 
 I would caution you against the just one more spline
 and I've got it approach, unless you have the
 patience of Job and a good part of Eternity available.
 
 Dan (BTDT and NEVER want to go back)
 
 
 --- Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 Got a bad driveshaft vibration going down the
 highway.  Would it be best 
 to A: just swap in a complete driveshaft from a
 different car, B: pull 
 driveshaft and have it balanced, or C: just keep
 moving the center 
 section one notch at a time till it gets lined back
 up like it should 
 be.  Apparantly it was seperated at some point and
 not marked.
 -- 
 
 
 
   
 
 Be a better friend, newshound, and 
 know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.  
 http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
 
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 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread Luther
I'll trade you mine for it straight up

Luther

On Tue, 29 Apr 2008 11:20:00 -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Well this is OK Dons old SDL, he said somebody had it apart and didnt
 put it back right, cant remember all of what he told me.  So by this
 year are the halves supposed to be marked?  That would sure make life
 MUCH easier.





-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
'82 300CD (166 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine

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Re: [MBZ] Clunky ball joint 86 W201

2008-04-29 Thread Peter Frederick
None of the supplied sleeves will fit the top of the old ball joint to press it 
out the bottom of the control arm (this is assuming it's the same as the W124, 
you need to check).  Any bit of pipe that will seat in the tool and fit inside 
the hole in the control arm will work, as you don't care about the joint you 
are pressing out.  It's tight, make sure you have the car supported well!.  
Going back in the sleeves and cups that come with the tool work.

I believe the strut in the W201 will come out with the spring in place like 
most McPhearson types do, but I don't know that for a fact.  If not, you will 
have to use external spring compressors, which I hate (I've had one slip off 
before).  If it comes out complete, as I expect it does, this becomes a fairly 
easy job as suspension work goes.

Peter



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[MBZ] How easy is it to break a radiator?

2008-04-29 Thread Alex Chamberlain
Having had no luck finding a used radiator locally for my new POS 300E
I ordered one of the ones on Ebay for $90 shipped.  I know I will
probably regret it when it craps out in a few years, but I was feeling
particularly cheap, and was really curious to see just what I would
get for half the price of a Behr from Rusty.   It's Chinese, of
course, and fits just fine; the tanks are made of lightweight plastic,
but to the manufacturer's credit it does have a drain plug and metal
reinforcements in all the fittings.   (For comparison, the leaky one
that it's replacing is all-metal, but has no drain plug; it has no
tri-star or other brand ID marked on it, but does have a plate stamped
Made in Singapore. Original?  No idea.)

I'm glad it was cheap, though, because I dropped it.  It hit the
nozzle of a bottle of dish-washing detergent that was sitting upright
on the ground.  (Haynes: Coat fittings with fairy liquid to ease
reassembly---tee hee!)   The fins are crushed in an area about the
size of a dime, and the horizontal tube next to that row of fins is
dented.  So, did I ruin the radiator?  Is the damage going to impede
flow significantly?  More important, is it going to leak?  During the
process of refilling the system with coolant, I did see a little bit
of smoke or steam coming from the radiator on the side where the
damage is, but I thought that could be dust or some kind of residue
from manufacturing burning off as the unit quickly got hot with the
engine running (I haven't put the fan back on yet).  Thoughts?

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo, '86 300E, et al.

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Re: [MBZ] (OT) general motors and their old tricks

2008-04-29 Thread Ed Booher
On Tue, Apr 29, 2008 at 9:21 AM, Donald Snook [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Larry wrote:

 Hyundai has some excellent products

 I agree. There are a lot of cars out there that will give 75,000-100,000
 of trouble free service.  The only problem with a lot of these cars is that
 they will never get 200,000 miles or 300,000 miles.  I don't know whether
 the new Mercedes will do that either. But, I know all of the Mercedes most
 of us own will.


This is where I sit on the fence currently. I no longer care if an engine
will bring me 200K+, I want the body to be permanent. 500K, 800K, 1M, I want
my car to last pretty much my life time, and I will perform mechanical
maintenance when needed. Up to and including replacing a tired engine with a
new one. To me that's an acceptable expense if the car lasts and the
mechanicals are rebuildable, replaceable, or upgradeable

EdB

-- 
I'm a Night Elf Mohawk! - Mr. T.
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[MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts

2008-04-29 Thread Jeff Zedic
Hey Rusty,

 I'm wondering if you're able to get me some parts for my Audi A4 like
you can for Euro MBs.

Let me know. I'd have them shipped to Canada not the UK.

Zedic

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts

2008-04-29 Thread Gary Hurst
only audi parts to my knowledge would be what you see on
www.buyeuroparts.com.

On Tue, Apr 29, 2008 at 1:02 PM, Jeff Zedic [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hey Rusty,

  I'm wondering if you're able to get me some parts for my Audi A4 like
 you can for Euro MBs.

 Let me know. I'd have them shipped to Canada not the UK.

 Zedic

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Re: [MBZ] (OT) general motors and their old tricks

2008-04-29 Thread Rich Thomas
I kinda feel the same way.  Our 2000 Burb has about 135k miles on it, 
body is excellent (except where wifey contacted that corner barrier in 
the parking garage), I figure if the engine or tranny craps out, either 
get another one at a junkyard or a rebuild or short block or whatever, 
for a couple grand.  It's not burning much oil now (a bit), so I figure 
it has a lot more miles in it.  Sure beats spending another $30k or $50k 
on a new one.  Brakes, bearings, and all that stuff are easily 
replaced.  It has been no trouble mostly, except for the rear glass that 
blew out, I got the dealer to replace it free after they got district to 
approve it (another one of those minimal recall pervasive problems).

--R

Ed Booher wrote:
 On Tue, Apr 29, 2008 at 9:21 AM, Donald Snook [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

   
 Larry wrote:

 Hyundai has some excellent products

 I agree. There are a lot of cars out there that will give 75,000-100,000
 of trouble free service.  The only problem with a lot of these cars is that
 they will never get 200,000 miles or 300,000 miles.  I don't know whether
 the new Mercedes will do that either. But, I know all of the Mercedes most
 of us own will.
 


 This is where I sit on the fence currently. I no longer care if an engine
 will bring me 200K+, I want the body to be permanent. 500K, 800K, 1M, I want
 my car to last pretty much my life time, and I will perform mechanical
 maintenance when needed. Up to and including replacing a tired engine with a
 new one. To me that's an acceptable expense if the car lasts and the
 mechanicals are rebuildable, replaceable, or upgradeable

 EdB

   
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Re: [MBZ] OK Don has a new car

2008-04-29 Thread Ed Booher
On Mon, Apr 28, 2008 at 10:44 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 I get in cars all the time that have bad paint, bad interior, bad
 engine, but NO rust.  Makes it hard to part them out knowing that they
 have no rust


I *like* those kinds of cars. Rust is very bad, I don't know how to use a
TIG welder ... or an Arc welder ... or a metal press really ... or a lathe
. I can turn bolts though, and pretty sure I can paint well enough to
keep rust from starting. So I like cars with no rust.

EdB

-- 
I'm a Night Elf Mohawk! - Mr. T.
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts

2008-04-29 Thread Rusty Cullens
All we can get for Audi is at www.BuyEUROparts.com


Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
Tel 1-800-741-5252
Fax   770-454-9745

- Original Message - 
From: Jeff Zedic [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 1:02 PM
Subject: [MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts


 Hey Rusty,
 
 I'm wondering if you're able to get me some parts for my Audi A4 like
 you can for Euro MBs.
 
 Let me know. I'd have them shipped to Canada not the UK.
 
 Zedic
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts

2008-04-29 Thread Jeff Zedic
Yeah, I've been perusing them but want to ensure that they'll fit.

I need a wheel bearing and don't know if it's inner/outer or case
style as I've not disassembled it yet. I also like the price on the cv
joint as I've got a torn boot.

Any way to know for sure?

Zedic

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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread LWB250
Drive shafts were marked as far back as 84 if not
earlier.  I see no reason why they wouldn't have
always been marked, as they have always been assembled
and tested as a unit.

Dig out a service manual or a CD and look at the
section on drive shafts to see what the marks look
like.  I can't do them justice here, suffice to say
the one on the yoke of the U joint is cast in the yoke
and the one on the drive shaft tube is a stamping with
two parallel lines and a ^ at the end to form an
arrow of sorts.

Once you see a picture you'll know what to look for.

Dan

--- Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Well this is OK Dons old SDL, he said somebody had
 it apart and didnt 
 put it back right, cant remember all of what he told
 me.  So by this 
 year are the halves supposed to be marked?  That
 would sure make life 
 MUCH easier.
 
 LWB250 wrote:
  You know how much I struggled with the driveshaft
  vibration in the 250LWB - that went on for over
 two
  years.
  
  First, give it a good visual inspection - drive
 shafts
  don't go bad.  If you find the offending part,
 like
  a bad U joint, mark everything like a maniac and
 take
  it somewhere to get the job done.
  
  Look carefully for the alignment arrows on all the
  parts.  If some dillweed had it out and wasn't
 paying
  attention, they could have reassembled it
 incorrectly.
   Look at the manuals for pictures of the arrows -
  they're nearly impossible to see unless you know
 what
  you're looking for.
  
  I would caution you against the just one more
 spline
  and I've got it approach, unless you have the
  patience of Job and a good part of Eternity
 available.
  
  Dan (BTDT and NEVER want to go back)
  
  
  --- Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:
  
  Got a bad driveshaft vibration going down the
  highway.  Would it be best 
  to A: just swap in a complete driveshaft from a
  different car, B: pull 
  driveshaft and have it balanced, or C: just keep
  moving the center 
  section one notch at a time till it gets lined
 back
  up like it should 
  be.  Apparantly it was seperated at some point
 and
  not marked.
  -- 
  
  
  
   


  Be a better friend, newshound, and 
  know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now. 

http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
  
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   94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 300D,
   89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE
 5.0 Euro,
   84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76
 240D,
   76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts

2008-04-29 Thread Jeff Zedic
I guess I'm out of luck on the bearing thenalso a ball joint.

Since this is a diesel I'd expect it to have a completely different front end.

Thanks,

Zedic

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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Thanks, will check it out.  Didnt know they were marked, so that should 
be easy.

LWB250 wrote:
 Drive shafts were marked as far back as 84 if not
 earlier.  I see no reason why they wouldn't have
 always been marked, as they have always been assembled
 and tested as a unit.
 
 Dig out a service manual or a CD and look at the
 section on drive shafts to see what the marks look
 like.  I can't do them justice here, suffice to say
 the one on the yoke of the U joint is cast in the yoke
 and the one on the drive shaft tube is a stamping with
 two parallel lines and a ^ at the end to form an
 arrow of sorts.
 
 Once you see a picture you'll know what to look for.
 
 Dan
 
 --- Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 Well this is OK Dons old SDL, he said somebody had
 it apart and didnt 
 put it back right, cant remember all of what he told
 me.  So by this 
 year are the halves supposed to be marked?  That
 would sure make life 
 MUCH easier.

 LWB250 wrote:
 You know how much I struggled with the driveshaft
 vibration in the 250LWB - that went on for over
 two
 years.

 First, give it a good visual inspection - drive
 shafts
 don't go bad.  If you find the offending part,
 like
 a bad U joint, mark everything like a maniac and
 take
 it somewhere to get the job done.

 Look carefully for the alignment arrows on all the
 parts.  If some dillweed had it out and wasn't
 paying
 attention, they could have reassembled it
 incorrectly.
  Look at the manuals for pictures of the arrows -
 they're nearly impossible to see unless you know
 what
 you're looking for.

 I would caution you against the just one more
 spline
 and I've got it approach, unless you have the
 patience of Job and a good part of Eternity
 available.
 Dan (BTDT and NEVER want to go back)


 --- Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:
 Got a bad driveshaft vibration going down the
 highway.  Would it be best 
 to A: just swap in a complete driveshaft from a
 different car, B: pull 
 driveshaft and have it balanced, or C: just keep
 moving the center 
 section one notch at a time till it gets lined
 back
 up like it should 
 be.  Apparantly it was seperated at some point
 and
 not marked.
 -- 


  
 
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 know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now. 
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 -- 
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
   94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 300D,
   89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE
 5.0 Euro,
   84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76
 240D,
   76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
 http://www.okiebenz.com

 ___
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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread LWB250
In a situation like this, where you've got vibration
but you don't know the (whole) history, your best bet
is to inspect the whole drive shaft, make sure
everything is lined up properly, and after you're
satisfied that it is, if the vibration persists, pull
the whole thing out and take it to a shop that can
balance it.

Trust me, you can spend years trying to sort this out
on your own.  A good example of leaving something to a
professional.

Dan



--- Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Thanks, will check it out.  Didnt know they were
 marked, so that should 
 be easy.
 
 LWB250 wrote:
  Drive shafts were marked as far back as 84 if not
  earlier.  I see no reason why they wouldn't have
  always been marked, as they have always been
 assembled
  and tested as a unit.
  
  Dig out a service manual or a CD and look at the
  section on drive shafts to see what the marks look
  like.  I can't do them justice here, suffice to
 say
  the one on the yoke of the U joint is cast in the
 yoke
  and the one on the drive shaft tube is a stamping
 with
  two parallel lines and a ^ at the end to form an
  arrow of sorts.
  
  Once you see a picture you'll know what to look
 for.
  
  Dan
  
  --- Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:
  
  Well this is OK Dons old SDL, he said somebody
 had
  it apart and didnt 
  put it back right, cant remember all of what he
 told
  me.  So by this 
  year are the halves supposed to be marked?  That
  would sure make life 
  MUCH easier.
 
  LWB250 wrote:
  You know how much I struggled with the
 driveshaft
  vibration in the 250LWB - that went on for over
  two
  years.
 
  First, give it a good visual inspection - drive
  shafts
  don't go bad.  If you find the offending part,
  like
  a bad U joint, mark everything like a maniac and
  take
  it somewhere to get the job done.
 
  Look carefully for the alignment arrows on all
 the
  parts.  If some dillweed had it out and wasn't
  paying
  attention, they could have reassembled it
  incorrectly.
   Look at the manuals for pictures of the arrows
 -
  they're nearly impossible to see unless you know
  what
  you're looking for.
 
  I would caution you against the just one more
  spline
  and I've got it approach, unless you have the
  patience of Job and a good part of Eternity
  available.
  Dan (BTDT and NEVER want to go back)
 
 
  --- Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  wrote:
  Got a bad driveshaft vibration going down the
  highway.  Would it be best 
  to A: just swap in a complete driveshaft from a
  different car, B: pull 
  driveshaft and have it balanced, or C: just
 keep
  moving the center 
  section one notch at a time till it gets lined
  back
  up like it should 
  be.  Apparantly it was seperated at some point
  and
  not marked.
  -- 
 
 
   
 


  Be a better friend, newshound, and 
  know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now. 
 

http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
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  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
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  -- 
  Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E
 4Matic,
  91 300D,
89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85
 380SE
  5.0 Euro,
84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D,
 76
  240D,
76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
  http://www.okiebenz.com
 
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
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  http://www.buymbparts.com/
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  know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now. 

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  ___
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 http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 

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 -- 
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
   94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 300D,
   89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE
 5.0 Euro,
   84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76
 240D,
   76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 
 ___
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 For new parts see official list sponsor:
 http://www.buymbparts.com/
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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread Mitch Haley


LWB250 wrote:
 
 In a situation like this, where you've got vibration
 but you don't know the (whole) history...

I'm wondering if maybe somebody assembled a driveshaft out
of parts from two driveshafts. That would make the matchmarks
useless. 

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts

2008-04-29 Thread E M
I didn't know you dealt in Porsche parts too Rusty??

Ed
300E

2008/4/29 Rusty Cullens [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

 All we can get for Audi is at www.BuyEUROparts.com


 Rusty Cullens
 BuyMBparts, Inc.
 Tel 1-800-741-5252
 Fax   770-454-9745

 - Original Message -
 From: Jeff Zedic [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 1:02 PM
 Subject: [MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts


  Hey Rusty,
 
  I'm wondering if you're able to get me some parts for my Audi A4 like
  you can for Euro MBs.
 
  Let me know. I'd have them shipped to Canada not the UK.
 
  Zedic
 
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Re: [MBZ] W123 lightening

2008-04-29 Thread Curt Raymond

The exhaust thats on there is 5 years old almost exactly and was a cheapo 
(well, it was crappy but not so cheap) tide me over deal at the time.
It needed to have a piece of pipe welded into the front right before I sold the 
car 3 years ago and now the rear muffler has fallen off.

I think for the money I'd rather just buy a good exhaust and not have to muck 
with it... You do make a good point though.
The thing is that this will be my wife's car and she is NOT keen on having 
something that isn't reliable. At this point my welds are not super reliable.

Of course welding school is this weekend!

-Curt

Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 06:35:22 -0700
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 lightening
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
 Sure it needs an exhaust, so it'll be $700, still, what can I buy for
 
 that?

How badly does it need an exhaust?  I've welded up holes in exhaust
systems before.  No, it doesn't last as long nor work as well as
a new system, but for about $3 and maybe a couple of hours of
time you get a pretty good ROI, if you've got the welder.

I combined two 'bad' exhaust systems for our 190D, and so far
it's working well.

-- Jim

   
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Re: [MBZ] you can easily find numerous (maybe 1000 or so?)

2008-04-29 Thread Curt Raymond

I think I'm with Don on this one, drive the snot out of it, if it fails give 
'em hell. If it doesn't your use of synthetic oil makes you a supergenius.

Complaining BEFORE you have a problem is going to make you look like a kook.

See we already know that about you so its no big deal. However for some people 
it might be, offputting.

-Curt

Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 10:48:48 -0400
From: Gary Hurst [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] you can easily find numerous (maybe 1000 or so?)
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

it's a little late once the car fails

On Tue, Apr 29, 2008 at 9:16 AM, Donald Snook [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Gary,

 Have you tried talking to the Service Manager at your local Saturn
 dealer?
 (I would guess you have). The next step is to tell him you want to
 talk to
 the Zone Representative.  GM used to have zone for individual brands.
 But, I
 think they have consolidated some of these. There is probably a zone
 rep for
 Saturn in Atlanta.  Your car has so few miles on it, you can ask for
 a
 goodwill policy adjustment.  It would help if you have had service
 done at
 the dealer.  Be friendly and cooperative unless the zone rep shoots
 you
 down. Then you can raise holy hell. You should also try to talk to
 the
 dealer (I don't mean the New Car Manager or some other lackey). The
 owner of
 the dealership should be concerned about this. He can put pressure on
 the
 zone rep to make you happy.

 One thing that may present a problem for you, is that your car has
 not
 failed. It is still working.  Usually, they won't do anything unless
 it has
 actually failed.  Is the timing chain making noise?  That might be a
 way to
 get it fixed.  Can you show paperwork that would document the oil
 changes?

 Donald H. Snook

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts

2008-04-29 Thread Rusty Cullens
Yes, we do most European cars. Everything for them is at the 
www.BuyEUROparts ,com site. We also have a lot for Asian cars at 
www.BuyASAINparts.com we don't promote it a lot because we love Mercedes and 
understand them. But if you can navigate the sires we'll ship anything we 
have.


Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
Tel 1-800-741-5252
Fax   770-454-9745

- Original Message - 
From: E M [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 2:08 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts


I didn't know you dealt in Porsche parts too Rusty??

 Ed
 300E

 2008/4/29 Rusty Cullens [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

 All we can get for Audi is at www.BuyEUROparts.com


 Rusty Cullens
 BuyMBparts, Inc.
 Tel 1-800-741-5252
 Fax   770-454-9745

 - Original Message -
 From: Jeff Zedic [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 1:02 PM
 Subject: [MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts


  Hey Rusty,
 
  I'm wondering if you're able to get me some parts for my Audi A4 like
  you can for Euro MBs.
 
  Let me know. I'd have them shipped to Canada not the UK.
 
  Zedic
 
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Re: [MBZ] you can easily find numerous (maybe 1000 or so?)

2008-04-29 Thread Curt Raymond
On a slightly related note I've heard lots of people say the 2.8l v6 GM used in 
the S trucks was no good but my '88 GMC S15 went 150,000+ with no serious 
engine issues.
Sure it didn't have squat for power (better than my 190D 2.2l though) but it 
did get 25mpg pretty consistantly. I'd have another one in a heartbeat if I 
could find one that wasn't all rusted out.

-Curt

   
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts

2008-04-29 Thread Smith, Todd
Rusty,

You don't have any GM/Ford parts do you?  Can you recommend a web dealer that 
offers anywhere near your level of quality service for American brands?

Todd Smith

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rusty Cullens
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 14:28
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts


Yes, we do most European cars. Everything for them is at the 
www.BuyEUROparts ,com site. We also have a lot for Asian cars at 
www.BuyASAINparts.com we don't promote it a lot because we love Mercedes and 
understand them. But if you can navigate the sires we'll ship anything we 
have.


Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
Tel 1-800-741-5252
Fax   770-454-9745

Confidentiality Note: The information contained in this message 
may be privileged and confidential. If this e-mail contains 
protected health information, you are hereby notified that any 
dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is 
strictly prohibited,except as permitted by law. If you have 
received this communication in error, please notify the sender 
immediately by replying to this message and deleting it from your 
computer.  Thank you.

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts

2008-04-29 Thread Rusty Cullens
I don't, sorry.


Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
Tel 1-800-741-5252
Fax   770-454-9745

- Original Message - 
From: Smith, Todd [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 2:41 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts


 Rusty,

 You don't have any GM/Ford parts do you?  Can you recommend a web dealer 
 that offers anywhere near your level of quality service for American 
 brands?

 Todd Smith

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rusty Cullens
 Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 14:28
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts


 Yes, we do most European cars. Everything for them is at the
 www.BuyEUROparts ,com site. We also have a lot for Asian cars at
 www.BuyASAINparts.com we don't promote it a lot because we love Mercedes 
 and
 understand them. But if you can navigate the sires we'll ship anything we
 have.


 Rusty Cullens
 BuyMBparts, Inc.
 Tel 1-800-741-5252
 Fax   770-454-9745

 Confidentiality Note: The information contained in this message
 may be privileged and confidential. If this e-mail contains
 protected health information, you are hereby notified that any
 dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is
 strictly prohibited,except as permitted by law. If you have
 received this communication in error, please notify the sender
 immediately by replying to this message and deleting it from your
 computer.  Thank you.

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 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread Rolf
I missed the beginning of this, did it suddenly occur following car
work? Have the carrier bear/bushing / flexdisks / transmounts all been
inspected?

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts

2008-04-29 Thread Allan Streib

Don't know how kosher it is but you can go into www.buymbparts.com --
go to the online catalog, select any year.  Then, don't select a
Mercedes model but click the Vehicle link at the top, then you can
pick any vehicle in the WorldPac catalog, Ford, whatever.

Allan
--
1983 300D

Smith, Todd [EMAIL PROTECTED] said:
 Rusty,
 
 You don't have any GM/Ford parts do you?  Can you recommend a web dealer
 that offers anywhere near your level of quality service for American
 brands?
 
 Todd Smith
 
 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rusty Cullens
 Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 14:28
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts
 
 
 Yes, we do most European cars. Everything for them is at the 
 www.BuyEUROparts ,com site. We also have a lot for Asian cars at 
 www.BuyASAINparts.com we don't promote it a lot because we love Mercedes
 and 
 understand them. But if you can navigate the sires we'll ship anything we 
 have.
 
 
 Rusty Cullens
 BuyMBparts, Inc.
 Tel 1-800-741-5252
 Fax   770-454-9745
 
 Confidentiality Note: The information contained in this message 
 may be privileged and confidential. If this e-mail contains 
 protected health information, you are hereby notified that any 
 dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is 
 strictly prohibited,except as permitted by law. If you have 
 received this communication in error, please notify the sender 
 immediately by replying to this message and deleting it from your 
 computer.  Thank you.
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts

2008-04-29 Thread Smith, Todd
Sorry for all of us that are trying to support American brands, since there 
isn't like your knowledge and customer service in the rest of the auto world.  
I know that we say it from time to time but the truth is that your company 
can't be beat on customer service and price.

Rusty helped me track down an obscure radiator fan temperature switch for a 
Toyota that not of the local dealerships even acknowledge even existed.  In '95 
Toyota built the Camry both stateside and in Japan.  This radiator temperature 
switch has two different models but the same part number and of course they are 
physically incompatible.  I really hadn't even ordered from him before but he 
took the time to order the part from the warehouse and measure it for me so 
that I would get the right part.  If I wasn't hooked before, then I was 
certainly hooked now.  My only problem is that I have too many vehicles that he 
doesn't stock parts for and only a hobby vehicle that really needs his 
attention.

Thanks Rusty and all of the Bimby guys and gals!

Todd Smith




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Re: [MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts

2008-04-29 Thread John Robbins
Allan Streib wrote:
 Don't know how kosher it is but you can go into www.buymbparts.com --
 go to the online catalog, select any year.  Then, don't select a
 Mercedes model but click the Vehicle link at the top, then you can
 pick any vehicle in the WorldPac catalog, Ford, whatever.


Now that is a nice little trick!! :)



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Re: [MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts

2008-04-29 Thread Rusty Cullens
I learn something new everyday. Thanks Alan.


Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
Tel 1-800-741-5252
Fax   770-454-9745

- Original Message - 
From: Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 3:05 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts



 Don't know how kosher it is but you can go into www.buymbparts.com --
 go to the online catalog, select any year.  Then, don't select a
 Mercedes model but click the Vehicle link at the top, then you can
 pick any vehicle in the WorldPac catalog, Ford, whatever.

 Allan
 --
 1983 300D

 Smith, Todd [EMAIL PROTECTED] said:
 Rusty,

 You don't have any GM/Ford parts do you?  Can you recommend a web dealer
 that offers anywhere near your level of quality service for American
 brands?

 Todd Smith

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rusty Cullens
 Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 14:28
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts


 Yes, we do most European cars. Everything for them is at the
 www.BuyEUROparts ,com site. We also have a lot for Asian cars at
 www.BuyASAINparts.com we don't promote it a lot because we love Mercedes
 and
 understand them. But if you can navigate the sires we'll ship anything we
 have.


 Rusty Cullens
 BuyMBparts, Inc.
 Tel 1-800-741-5252
 Fax   770-454-9745

 Confidentiality Note: The information contained in this message
 may be privileged and confidential. If this e-mail contains
 protected health information, you are hereby notified that any
 dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is
 strictly prohibited,except as permitted by law. If you have
 received this communication in error, please notify the sender
 immediately by replying to this message and deleting it from your
 computer.  Thank you.

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts

2008-04-29 Thread Gary Hurst
works for me.

On Tue, Apr 29, 2008 at 3:05 PM, Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 Don't know how kosher it is but you can go into www.buymbparts.com --
 go to the online catalog, select any year.  Then, don't select a
 Mercedes model but click the Vehicle link at the top, then you can
 pick any vehicle in the WorldPac catalog, Ford, whatever.

 Allan
 --
 1983 300D

 Smith, Todd [EMAIL PROTECTED] said:
  Rusty,
 
  You don't have any GM/Ford parts do you?  Can you recommend a web dealer
  that offers anywhere near your level of quality service for American
  brands?
 
  Todd Smith
 
  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rusty Cullens
  Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 14:28
  To: Mercedes Discussion List
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts
 
 
  Yes, we do most European cars. Everything for them is at the
  www.BuyEUROparts ,com site. We also have a lot for Asian cars at
  www.BuyASAINparts.com we don't promote it a lot because we love Mercedes
  and
  understand them. But if you can navigate the sires we'll ship anything
 we
  have.
 
 
  Rusty Cullens
  BuyMBparts, Inc.
  Tel 1-800-741-5252
  Fax   770-454-9745
 
  Confidentiality Note: The information contained in this message
  may be privileged and confidential. If this e-mail contains
  protected health information, you are hereby notified that any
  dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is
  strictly prohibited,except as permitted by law. If you have
  received this communication in error, please notify the sender
  immediately by replying to this message and deleting it from your
  computer.  Thank you.
 
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  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts

2008-04-29 Thread Gary Hurst
another think you can do is find, say, a hengst number or  a pagid number
for your ford and then type that into the catalog.  my saturn filters are
hengst and cheap, but you looked it up by application, you would come up
only with the Ful filters that fit the car.

On Tue, Apr 29, 2008 at 3:25 PM, Rusty Cullens [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I learn something new everyday. Thanks Alan.


 Rusty Cullens
 BuyMBparts, Inc.
 Tel 1-800-741-5252
 Fax   770-454-9745

 - Original Message -
 From: Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 3:05 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts


 
  Don't know how kosher it is but you can go into www.buymbparts.com --
  go to the online catalog, select any year.  Then, don't select a
  Mercedes model but click the Vehicle link at the top, then you can
  pick any vehicle in the WorldPac catalog, Ford, whatever.
 
  Allan
  --
  1983 300D
 
  Smith, Todd [EMAIL PROTECTED] said:
  Rusty,
 
  You don't have any GM/Ford parts do you?  Can you recommend a web
 dealer
  that offers anywhere near your level of quality service for American
  brands?
 
  Todd Smith
 
  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rusty Cullens
  Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 14:28
  To: Mercedes Discussion List
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts
 
 
  Yes, we do most European cars. Everything for them is at the
  www.BuyEUROparts ,com site. We also have a lot for Asian cars at
  www.BuyASAINparts.com we don't promote it a lot because we love
 Mercedes
  and
  understand them. But if you can navigate the sires we'll ship anything
 we
  have.
 
 
  Rusty Cullens
  BuyMBparts, Inc.
  Tel 1-800-741-5252
  Fax   770-454-9745
 
  Confidentiality Note: The information contained in this message
  may be privileged and confidential. If this e-mail contains
  protected health information, you are hereby notified that any
  dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is
  strictly prohibited,except as permitted by law. If you have
  received this communication in error, please notify the sender
  immediately by replying to this message and deleting it from your
  computer.  Thank you.
 
  ___
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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread LWB250
True, but you'll never know until you get the marks
aligned to begin with.

My point was to get a point of reference and then go
from there.  You have to assume nothing is right to
begin with

Dan


--- Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I'm wondering if maybe somebody assembled a
 driveshaft out
 of parts from two driveshafts. That would make the
 matchmarks
 useless. 
 
 Mitch.
 



  

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[MBZ] Antarctic ice threatened by ozone-hole recovery

2008-04-29 Thread Rich Thomas
Good news for all of us with old cars.  What with global warming, er, 
climate change, we should now be able to get freon again if we want to 
keep the ice cap from melting.

--R


http://www.nature.com/news/2008/080429/full/news.2008.787.html

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Re: [MBZ] OK Don has a new car

2008-04-29 Thread LarryT
Ed wrote  I like cars with no rust

Your logic is impeccable!  I feel the same way.  Although I can weld well 
enough - not pretty but passable - I'd rather not take that route if it can 
be helped.   I prefer to pull a fender if needed and paint the inside 
surfaces with POR15 or equivilent - that's *my* kind of restoration work. 
;-)

Course, I realize there are lots of cars out there with rust here and there 
that are significant cars which require the effort needed to rid it of rust. 
I'd just rather not be involved with those.  Luckily, there are lots of 
talented people who will take a truck load of boxes filled with unknown 
parts and no rust-free sheetmetal larger than a hubcap and end up a couple 
of years later on the lawn at Pebble Beach reaching for the blue ribbon -

Larry T (66 MGB, 74 911, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
800-583-8601
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs



- Original Message - 
From: Ed Booher [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 1:13 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OK Don has a new car


 On Mon, Apr 28, 2008 at 10:44 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:

 I get in cars all the time that have bad paint, bad interior, bad
 engine, but NO rust.  Makes it hard to part them out knowing that they
 have no rust


 I *like* those kinds of cars. Rust is very bad, I don't know how to use a
 TIG welder ... or an Arc welder ... or a metal press really ... or a lathe
 . I can turn bolts though, and pretty sure I can paint well enough to
 keep rust from starting. So I like cars with no rust.

 EdB

 -- 
 I'm a Night Elf Mohawk! - Mr. T.
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[MBZ] Goofbay

2008-04-29 Thread LWB250
This is a site (Goofbay.com) that has been around for
some time, but it's been sort of dormant until
recently.

Some years back these guys figured out how to crack
some of the eBay code used to track various stats on
the site, and when they set up the site originally,
they had a suite of tools that were really nice for
figuring out where to be with bids, sellers, etc.

eBay got wind of it and changed some of their coding,
which broke these guy's tools.

They're back - and with a new set of goodies that are
really helpful if you do any sort of selling or buying
on eBay.  They have a free snipe tool that's really
nice- I've used it a couple of times in the last week
and it's worked great!

Enjoy!

Dan




  

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Re: [MBZ] (OT) general motors and their old tricks (my old story, but i tell it every time they upset me)

2008-04-29 Thread R A Bennell
A good friend has a new Azera (sp?) so we shall see how he does with it over 
time. So far, he thinks it is great.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of LWB250
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 4:20 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] (OT) general motors and their old tricks (my old
story,but i tell it every time they upset me)



--- LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hyundai has some excellent products -

I looked carefully at the luxury sedan they make in
the $25k range, and I'll say that it's a fantastic car
for the money and very well built.  Add to that the
100k warranty and you've got a fairly good long-term
auto, IMHO.

Dan





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Re: [MBZ] W123 lightening

2008-04-29 Thread R A Bennell
So take the parts off and store them in the garage. When Jim buys the car from 
you, put the spare parts in the
trunk. Best of both worlds.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 7:35 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 lightening


 But did anybody else notice its a $400 car? How much could I possibly
 devalue it? I'm below Kaleb money already.

I bought a $500 car, some may recall.  Sold it for $2500.  Perhaps
could have gotten more if some dumb SOB hand not _removed_ all of
the AC stuff in front, 'cause I could probably have fixed it.  Gina
now has a nice-looking car, but it won't ever have AC unless she's
stupidly extravagant or has some clever friends.  Fortunately she
lives in an area where AC is not needed too often.  See:

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mb240d.html

It still torques me.

 I bought it...for $1500. Drove it...sold it for $800.

When missing parts the sale price is generally lower than otherwise.
So either you lose more or don't gain as much.

 Now I'm buying it back for $400

You get another whack at it!  See if you can run it up higher
this time, when it's time.

 what else can I get for $400 that comes with MY ownership records?

Nada!  For the right price I'd buy back either of the two
MB's I've sold.  (Well, I wouldn't right now, more cars
is the _last_ thing I need!)

 Sure it needs an exhaust, so it'll be $700, still, what can I buy for
 that?

How badly does it need an exhaust?  I've welded up holes in exhaust
systems before.  No, it doesn't last as long nor work as well as
a new system, but for about $3 and maybe a couple of hours of
time you get a pretty good ROI, if you've got the welder.

I combined two 'bad' exhaust systems for our 190D, and so far
it's working well.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts

2008-04-29 Thread mykd1
The wheel bearings on the Audi are the sealed type and need to be pressed out. 


Harry
69 280 SEL 
72 350SL ?
04 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata ? 


-Original Message-
From: Jeff Zedic [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 12:17 pm
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts



Yeah, I've been perusing them but want to ensure that they'll fit.

I need a wheel bearing and don't know if it's inner/outer or case
style as I've not disassembled it yet. I also like the price on the cv
joint as I've got a torn boot.

Any way to know for sure?

Zedic

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Re: [MBZ] (OT) general motors and their old tricks (my old story, but i tell it every time they upset me)

2008-04-29 Thread Kevin
Well, you hit on where I was going with that. Looking back at history for
a comparison, the Koreans are breaking into the market much the same way the
japanese did roughly 30 years ago - making something at least as good 
for less and standing behind it.

I don't care for anything coming to market from Korea, but we're all in the 
minority that doesn't view a car as strictly an appliance. For the majority
that dumps a car before it racks up 100k, low capital expense and a warranty
that covers you until you dump it is VERY attractive, and the cars don't seem
to be noticeably worse (or better) than things costing 10-200% more.

On Mon, Apr 28, 2008 at 11:10:38PM -0400, LarryT wrote:
 Hyundai has some excellent products -
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Kevin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 5:08 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] (OT) general motors and their old tricks (my old 
 story,but i tell it every time they upset me)
 
 
  Naw. Honda and Toyota now are in the same position as GM was 20-30 years 
  ago.
  They have been playing off past successes and starting to cheapen their
  vehicles. There's going to be a new leader in a few years, and it won't be
  either of them. Wait and see.
 
  On Mon, Apr 28, 2008 at 05:05:37PM -0400, Gary Hurst wrote:
  i guess i'm hard headed.  seems everyone of basically normal intelligence
  has already figured out you say to hell with these gangsters and just get 
  a
  honda or a toyota

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts

2008-04-29 Thread Rick Knoble
 You don't have any GM/Ford parts do you?  Can you recommend a web dealer that 
 offers anywhere near your level of quality service for American brands?
 
 Todd Smith

http://www.rockauto.com/

OEM parts @ discount prices.

Rick Knoble 
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT

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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
oh yea, I will inspect for sure.  Im sure it just needs to have the 
marks lined up though.  I cant for the life of me remember what OK Don 
told me about that

LWB250 wrote:
 In a situation like this, where you've got vibration
 but you don't know the (whole) history, your best bet
 is to inspect the whole drive shaft, make sure
 everything is lined up properly, and after you're
 satisfied that it is, if the vibration persists, pull
 the whole thing out and take it to a shop that can
 balance it.
 
 Trust me, you can spend years trying to sort this out
 on your own.  A good example of leaving something to a
 professional.
 
 Dan
 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
I just got the car, was told something was replaced or something and the 
shaft was apart then and not put back togehter correctly

Rolf wrote:
 I missed the beginning of this, did it suddenly occur following car
 work? Have the carrier bear/bushing / flexdisks / transmounts all been
 inspected?
 
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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Antarctic ice threatened by ozone-hole recovery

2008-04-29 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
that would be GREAT if that could happen

Rich Thomas wrote:
 Good news for all of us with old cars.  What with global warming, er, 
 climate change, we should now be able to get freon again if we want to 
 keep the ice cap from melting.
 
 --R
 
 
 http://www.nature.com/news/2008/080429/full/news.2008.787.html
 
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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] CYA on an eBay Sale

2008-04-29 Thread Barry Wolff
Hold the camera until the buyer gets there address fixed with paypal and
let them know that it is Paypals policy and not yours if you have not
seen a response or update of status on Paypal offer a 2nd chance to
bidder #2.  

Barry Wolff 
06 R350 
02 E55 
91 Range Rover GDE 
53 356 Cab  

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Hendrik  Fay
Posted At: Monday, April 28, 2008 5:31 PM
Posted To: OkieBenz
Conversation: [MBZ] CYA on an eBay Sale
Subject: Re: [MBZ] CYA on an eBay Sale

I am looking to upgrade my mobile phone and have been looking at some on

fleabay, naturally I check the feedback of sellers to determine if they 
are straightup.
Came across one feedback where the buyer claimed that the package 
arrived empty, the seller answered back that the receipt he/she got from

the post showed the weight of the package as it entered the postal 
system, proving that it contained a phone. The buyer had a feedback 
rating of zero and the seller had over a 100 feedbacks with 99.3% 
satisfaction.
Over here we have what is called registered post, costs a bit more but 
you have the security that the package will only be handed over with a 
signature.
So make sure that you get the weight of the package officially 
registered, in case your buyer uses the empty package trick.

Hendrik

LWB250 wrote:
 I just sold a video camera on eBay last night.  The
 bidding was pretty frenzied in the last few seconds,
 resulting in a snipe for about $50 over the next
 highest bidder.  While the ending price was not
 unrealistic, it was in the high range for this camera.

 SNIPPED

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[MBZ] Washington Post's Mensa Invitational

2008-04-29 Thread archer
Here is the Washington Post's Mensa Invitational which, once again,
asked readers to take any word from the dictionary, alter it by adding, 
subtracting, or changing one letter and supply a new definition.

The winners are:
1. Cashtration (n.): The act of buying a house, which renders the
subject financially impotent for an indefinite period of time.

2. Ignoranus: A person who's both stupid and an asshole.

3. Intaxication: Euphoria at getting a tax refund, which lasts until you
realize it was your money to start with.

4. Reintarnation: Coming back to life as a hillbilly.

5. Bozone (n.): The substance surrounding stupid people that stops
bright ideas from penetrating.

The bozone layer, unfortunately, shows little sign of breaking down in
the near future.

6. Foreploy: Any misrepresentation about yourself for the purpose of
getting laid.

7. Giraffiti: Vandalism spray-painted very, very high.

8. Sarchasm: The gulf between the author of sarcastic wit and the person
who doesn't get it.

9. Inoculatte: To take coffee intravenously when you are running late.

10. Hipatitis: Terminal coolness.

11. Osteopornosis: A degenerate disease. (This one got extra credit.)

12. Karmageddon: It's when everybody is sending off all these really bad
vibes,

and then the Earth explodes, and it's a serious bummer.

13. Decafalon (n.): The grueling event of getting through the day
consuming only things that are good for you.

14. Glibido: All talk and no action.

15. Dopeler effect: The tendency of stupid ideas to seem smarter when
they come at you rapidly.

16. Arachnoleptic fit (n.): The frantic dance performed just after
you've accidentally

walked through a spider web.

17. Beelzebug (n.): Satan in the form of a mosquito, that gets into your
bedroom at three in the morning and cannot be cast out.

18. Caterpallor (n.): The color you turn after finding half a worm in
the fruit you're eating.
--

The Washington Post has also published the winning submissions to its
yearly contest, in which readers are asked to supply alternate meanings for 
common  words.

1. coffee, (n.) the person upon whom one coughs.

2. flabbergasted, (adj.) appalled by discovering how much weight one has
gained.

3. abdicate, (v.) to give up all hope of ever having a flat stomach.

4. esplanade, (v.) to attempt an explanation while drunk.

5. willy-nilly, (adj.) impotent.

6. negligent, (adj.) absentmindedly answering the door when wearing only
a nightgown.

7. lymph, (v.) to walk with a lisp.

8. gargoyle, (n.) olive-flavored mouthwash.

9. flatulence, (n.) emergency vehicle that picks up someone who has been
run over by a steamroller.

10. balderdash, (n.) a rapidly receding hairline.

11. testicle, (n.) a humorous question on an exam.

12. rectitude, (n.) the formal, dignified bearing adopted by
proctologists.

13. pokemon, (n.) a Rastafarian proctologist.

14. oyster, (n.) a person who sprinkles his conversation with
Yiddishisms.

15. Frisbeetarianism, (n.) the belief that, after death, the soul flies
up onto the roof and gets stuck there.

16. circumvent, (n.) an opening in the front of boxer shorts worn by
Jewish men.


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Re: [MBZ] (OT) general motors and their old tricks (my old story, but i tell it every time they upset me)

2008-04-29 Thread archer
 On Mon, Apr 28, 2008 at 11:10:38PM -0400, LarryT wrote:
 Hyundai has some excellent products -
--
One of my grandsons has a Hyundai SUV with about (50K?) on it that was 
bought new.
A while back he started smelling raw gas.  I found a leaking fuel line on 
the engine.  The fuel line was made out of plain rubber with no reinforcing 
cords and the rubber seemed to be of poor quality.  He replaced all the 
rubber fuel lines which did not have reinforcing AFAIK.  I still can't 
understand how that could have happened.

If anyone buys a Hyundai, it would be a good idea to check and see if the 
rubber fuel lines are satisfactory.  On my grandsons SUV, the leaking fuel 
hose was on the right near the engine as you face the front of the car, and 
after you've taken off the plastic cover over the engine.
Gerry 


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Rusty Euro Audi Parts

2008-04-29 Thread Jeff Zedic
Sealed type for what years? You see, the worldpac catalogue lists the
two types for my car with a chassis split.

Zedic

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[MBZ] The 560 SL

2008-04-29 Thread Douglas
I am curious as to the fuel requirements of the SL series.. I know that the old 
450's take regular as does the 380's to 1984. What is the octane rating of the 
others I have been seeing many other SL's through like 1998 and would like to 
know the rating of these cars.

I cannot find it on the net. 

Thanks Douglas
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Re: [MBZ] Clunky ball joint 86 W201

2008-04-29 Thread Hendrik Fay
The 86 201 does not have a McPherson strut, it uses a shock absorber 
strut next to the spring. How do I know this? Because I used an internal 
spring compressor to remove the springs yesterday and I will be using an 
internal spring compressor to re-install the springs today.
Unfortunately the rear rubbers where pretty much toast, so I had to get 
the control arm fully rebuild.

Hendrik

Peter Frederick wrote:
 None of the supplied sleeves will fit the top of the old ball joint to press 
 it out the bottom of the control arm (this is assuming it's the same as the 
 W124, you need to check).  Any bit of pipe that will seat in the tool and fit 
 inside the hole in the control arm will work, as you don't care about the 
 joint you are pressing out.  It's tight, make sure you have the car supported 
 well!.  Going back in the sleeves and cups that come with the tool work.

 I believe the strut in the W201 will come out with the spring in place like 
 most McPhearson types do, but I don't know that for a fact.  If not, you will 
 have to use external spring compressors, which I hate (I've had one slip off 
 before).  If it comes out complete, as I expect it does, this becomes a 
 fairly easy job as suspension work goes.

 Peter




   

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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread Peter Frederick
In order:

Check for damage to the shaft (even a dent will make it shake).

Check for condition of flex disks -- any cracks, replace.

Check center carrier and bearing -- a bad bearing can sound like a  
bad muffler, and the vibration will be centered on the carrier, right  
at the rear of the front seats.  You will be able to feel the floor  
shake if it's the carrier or bearing.

Check the u-joint.  This is probably the first thing that is likely  
to be bad other than the carrier bearing rubber mount, but you have  
to take the shaft out to check it.  It must be smooth through the  
entire arc of movement -- typically there is a catch at a much wider  
angle than it will every operate in the car, but it that catch is  
there, it will drum.  Usually sounds like a bad muffler, but varies  
with road speed and not engine speed.

If it's worse, shaking the whole car, the center joint is bad or the  
carrier rubber is shot, allowing the shaft to orbit rather than spin  
on center.  You won't mistake it for a bad bearing.

For repair, if you have a known good shaft, the easy thing it to just  
swap it in with new flex disks, bearing, and carrier.  Problem gone.   
If you don't have a good shaft, check the carrier and u-joint., but  
you CANNOT replace the u-joint unless you have both a centering  
fixture to strake the new on in exactly centered AND a balancing  
machine with the correct adapters for MB drive shafts.  Last price I  
heard some time ago was $650, probably higher now, for a joint  
replacement/balance.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
thanks!!

Peter Frederick wrote:
 In order:
 
 Check for damage to the shaft (even a dent will make it shake).
 
 Check for condition of flex disks -- any cracks, replace.
 
 Check center carrier and bearing -- a bad bearing can sound like a  
 bad muffler, and the vibration will be centered on the carrier, right  
 at the rear of the front seats.  You will be able to feel the floor  
 shake if it's the carrier or bearing.
 
 Check the u-joint.  This is probably the first thing that is likely  
 to be bad other than the carrier bearing rubber mount, but you have  
 to take the shaft out to check it.  It must be smooth through the  
 entire arc of movement -- typically there is a catch at a much wider  
 angle than it will every operate in the car, but it that catch is  
 there, it will drum.  Usually sounds like a bad muffler, but varies  
 with road speed and not engine speed.
 
 If it's worse, shaking the whole car, the center joint is bad or the  
 carrier rubber is shot, allowing the shaft to orbit rather than spin  
 on center.  You won't mistake it for a bad bearing.
 
 For repair, if you have a known good shaft, the easy thing it to just  
 swap it in with new flex disks, bearing, and carrier.  Problem gone.   
 If you don't have a good shaft, check the carrier and u-joint., but  
 you CANNOT replace the u-joint unless you have both a centering  
 fixture to strake the new on in exactly centered AND a balancing  
 machine with the correct adapters for MB drive shafts.  Last price I  
 heard some time ago was $650, probably higher now, for a joint  
 replacement/balance.
 
 Peter
 
 
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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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[MBZ] funny

2008-04-29 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJKEtc5tB-0NR=1
-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Make your own G-force meter

2008-04-29 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Tue, 29 Apr 2008 08:27:05 -0500 Rich Thomas
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Your 240D needs one of these!
 
 --R
 
 http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2008/04/how_to_make_your_own_gfor.html?CMP=OTC-0D6B48984890

The 240D won't show much forward acceleration, but it should certainly
show backward and sideways acceleration!


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] bad vibration

2008-04-29 Thread OK Don
I told you that the engine was replaced by the PO - prior to me - and
that it has had the vibration as long as I had it. I was considering
using the two hose clamps balancing method - just move one relative to
the other until it stops shaking. However, I just drove above or
(sometimes) below the speed it vibrates at, rather than mess with it -
must be part of getting older.

On Tue, Apr 29, 2008 at 6:47 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 oh yea, I will inspect for sure.  Im sure it just needs to have the
  marks lined up though.  I cant for the life of me remember what OK Don
  told me about that


-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics.
-Benjamin Disraeli and/or Mark Twain
'92 300D, '90 300D, ' '81 240D, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] How easy is it to break a radiator?

2008-04-29 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Tue, 29 Apr 2008 09:36:08 -0700 Alex Chamberlain
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 The fins are crushed in an area about the size of a dime, and the
 horizontal tube next to that row of fins is dented.  So, did I ruin the
 radiator? 

No.


 Is the damage going to impede flow significantly? 

No.


 More important, is it going to leak? 

Hard to say. Clean it off good and if you see a residue build up in the
area and have dropping coolant level, you have a small leak. They can be
repaired.

If you're really interested in checking for a leak, remove the radiator
and take it to a radiator shop for a leak check or do the equivalent
yourself by sealing all the openings, pressurizing it with air, and
submersing it in water.


Craig

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[MBZ] trans RR shade-tree style

2008-04-29 Thread Luther
I'm looking for tips and knowledge for getting my SDL high enough to RR the
trans using floor/bottle jacks, jack stands, and ramps.  Ideas?  Any
experience?  TIA all. 

-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi) BioBeast
'82 300CD (176 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine





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Re: [MBZ] Make your own G-force meter

2008-04-29 Thread Luther
Is that from bug or bird impacts? :D

-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi) BioBeast
'82 300CD (176 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine



Quoting Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

 On Tue, 29 Apr 2008 08:27:05 -0500 Rich Thomas
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Your 240D needs one of these!

 --R

 http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2008/04/how_to_make_your_own_gfor.html?CMP=OTC-0D6B48984890

 The 240D won't show much forward acceleration, but it should certainly
 show backward and sideways acceleration!


 Craig




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Re: [MBZ] funny

2008-04-29 Thread Luther
Funny how??  Flinstone mobile?

-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi) BioBeast
'82 300CD (176 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine



Quoting Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJKEtc5tB-0NR=1


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Re: [MBZ] funny

2008-04-29 Thread Chuck Landenberger
Hey Kaleb,

I agree with Luther..  What's funny?

Chuck
On Apr 29, 2008, at 9:49 PM, Luther wrote:

 Funny how??  Flinstone mobile?

 -- 
 Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
 '87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
 '85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi) BioBeast
 '82 300CD (176 kmi)
 '82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
 '85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine



 Quoting Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJKEtc5tB-0NR=1


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