Re: [MBZ] OT external HDs ?? + bit of benz content.

2010-06-25 Thread Mathieu J. Cama


On Jun 25, 2010, at 1:27 PM, E M wrote:

I thought I'd ask the group, as many of you seem quite knowledgeable  
on all

things computers.

 SNIP

Thanks everyone,

Ed
300E


Ed,

Here is the solution to your needs: http://www.newertech.com/products/gmax.php 
.


I have one sitting on my desk here in the shop on the Mac and it just  
does its job. I read many reviews and researched these things for some  
time. This one came out on top and I am still very happy with my  
purchase. Most of the big box store stuff had very mixed reviews.


Mathieu
www.oldworldauto.com

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Re: [MBZ] 300D crapped out on way to work

2010-06-17 Thread Mathieu J. Cama
  ---Original Message---
  From: Bob Rentfro azbob...@gmail.com
  To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300D crapped out on way to work
  Sent: 17 Jun '10 18:40
  
  I didn't notice the pressure. It made no noise and spewed no smoke. Is just
  lost power and died the moment put it in neutral.
  

Bob,

Check for a seized accessory. A frozen alternator or waterpump (a/c or p/s pump 
too, I'm sure) coupled with a tight belt 
can stop the motor dead in its tracks just like you describe.

The m103 is known for this when the alternator seizes. Had the same happen to a 
client with a '66 230sl a couple of 
months back. No warning, the car simply stalled at a traffic light and acted as 
if the motor were locked solid. Turned out 
to be a seized waterpump.

Mathieu


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[MBZ] Going bald in 20010

2010-05-06 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

Folks,

Please join me in supporting St. Baldrick's Foundation! On Saturday, 15 
May, I will have my head shaved to raise funds to help those children 
who are fighting cancer. Many of you are aware that I have not had a 
haircut in nearing two years to donate my hair to Locks of Love in 
honor of family and friends that has been lost to cancer. That hair now 
reaches past my shoulders and is long enough for donating. On that 
Saturday, two groups will benefit from this shearing of the fleece.


Please make a donation with the knowledge that you, too, are helping 
those children that are fighting this terrible plight. Until we have a 
cure, at the very least, we can show our support to those who are 
wrestling with their own recoveries and hope to make them more 
comfortable. Please, everyone, let us make this one count!


Directions for donating and more information about the event may be 
found here: https://www.stbaldricks.org/participants/oldworld.


Thank you for your support and encouragement! Please, spread the word. 
:)


Best regards,

Mathieu Cama

Old World Automotive
Lawrenceville, GA
www.oldworldauto.com
404-550-8000
9:30 AM - 5:30 PM Mon-Fri


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Re: [MBZ] Overheating 1977 300D

2010-02-27 Thread Mathieu J. Cama
Park the car with the nose slightly pointed uphill, heater valves fully open. 
Open the bleeder on the top of the 
thermostat housing (unique to '77 and '78 300d) and run the motor. When a 
steady stream of coolant comes out, 
close the bleeder. These early om617 motors are a pain to properly bleed out. 
On extreme cases, I have filled coolant 
into the bleed to help purge the air pocket. Takes me usually about 30 minutes 
to get one of these well bled out. 
Ornery cars have taken well over an hour. Driving by itself will not do it. 
Usually results in overheating and a coolant 
fountain when the cap is off. 

Also, it could be your t-stat, water pump, radiator, loose belt, etc, etc.

Mathieu

  ---Original Message---
  From: Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net
  To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Overheating 1977 300D
  Sent: 27 Feb '10 14:19
  
  Don't they have to be burped when you fill them?
  
  --R
  
  On 2/27/2010 9:13 AM, Mitch Haley wrote:
   Peter Hertzing wrote:
   Hello All
  
   Friend has a 77 300D.  Overheats at idle and in traffic - and gets hot
   quick.
  
   Is the fan turning or freewheeling?
  
   Mitch.
  
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Re: [MBZ] Rack Damper Screw

2010-02-23 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

On Feb 22, 2010, at 7:57 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

Matt is right. I think if its torn, you will probably have to have the 
IP rebuilt, I dont think its a DIY repair.


It can be replaced in-situ. Not the most pleasant job, but feasible 
with patience and the factory manual to reference.



Regards,

Mathieu Cama

Old World Automotive
Lawrenceville, GA
www.oldworldauto.com
404-550-8000
9:30 AM - 5:30 PM Mon-Fri


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Re: [MBZ] Rack Damper Screw

2010-02-22 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

Bruce,

Check for a torn diaphragm in the back of the IP. An oscillating idle 
is a common symptom for this. Other symptoms include poor fuel economy 
and more than normal smoke out the tailpipe.


Regards,

Mathieu Cama

Old World Automotive
Lawrenceville, GA
www.oldworldauto.com
404-550-8000
9:30 AM - 5:30 PM Mon-Fri


On Feb 21, 2010, at 11:56 PM, B Dike wrote:


Hi All,
 
The 74 W115 240D engine swap is done.  It runs great, except for one 
minor problem (of course):  At idle, the motor surges (or lopes) at a 
1.5 hz oscillation.  It is particularly bad when cold.  Is there a 
rack damper screw at the back of the IP like the W123 motors?  Is 
there something else I should look for?

 
Thanks,
 
Bruce



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Re: [MBZ] Need a part number check on a transmission.

2010-01-14 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

On Jan 14, 2010, at 2:12 PM, Walt Zarnoch wrote:


Hi all,

If anyone can confirm what a '115 281 18 01   4 1 is, and whether 
it is

5 or 4 speed it would be much apreciated.
It's a manual and came out of a 240D with a 616 in it.

Thanks in advance,

Walt


Walt,

Not a 5 speed.


Regards,

Mathieu Cama

Old World Automotive
Lawrenceville, GA
www.oldworldauto.com
404-550-8000
9:30 AM - 5:30 PM Mon-Fri


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Re: [MBZ] Injector rebuild and balance

2010-01-08 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

On Jan 7, 2010, at 10:46 PM, Dr. Brian Carey wrote:

I've used Yankee Diesel. They are great, have very sophisticated 
equipment

for rebuilding injectors.

Yankee Diesel Inc

220 S Main St, Newtown, CT, 06470

(203) 364-1275



You won't go wrong with Yankee. After 20 years I have yet to have a 
single complaint with any of his work.



Regards,

Mathieu Cama

Old World Automotive
Lawrenceville, GA
www.oldworldauto.com
404-550-8000
9:30 AM - 5:30 PM Mon-Fri


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Re: [MBZ] Injector rebuild and balance

2010-01-08 Thread Mathieu J . Cama



On Jan 8, 2010, at 9:47 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 
53310 wrote:



Matt - welcome back!  I haven't seen any email traffic from you in a
long time...

-Max



Max,

There was this flood that happened back in September you could say 
it disrupted our lives a bit. Glad to still be here and be able to 
type. It was a close one.


Mathieu


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Re: [MBZ] Injector rebuild and balance

2010-01-08 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

On Jan 8, 2010, at 10:16 AM, Mitch Haley wrote:


One last quote on injector tolerances:

All of the injectors should be within 5 bar of one another (the 
tolerable window for new or rebuilt injectors from Bosch is 10 bar). 
Getting the injectors closer than that (within 1 or 2 bar) will smooth 
the idle a bit more, but that's a LOT of work. I seem to recall that 
the standard shim increment changes pressure by 3 bar. To get closer 
than that the shims need to be ground by hand.


Marshall



When I order injectors from Yankee, they are typically matched to 
within 2 bar of one another. The result is well worth it and it will 
show on a healthy motor that is properly maintained. Idle quality, 
power, and overall efficiency are greatly affected by injector 
characteristics.


Having worked for Yankee during my college years, I can say that when 
he matches them to that tolerance, 2 bar variance, he often has to hand 
grind the shims. It costs more for that level of tolerance, but it is 
well worth it.


Rebuilding injectors is not difficult, but it is an art that is honed 
with time. It is a tedious task to make the injectors perform 
optimally, a task very few are willing to invest the time into.


Regards,

Mathieu Cama

Old World Automotive
Lawrenceville, GA
www.oldworldauto.com
404-550-8000
9:30 AM - 5:30 PM Mon-Fri


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Re: [MBZ] OT - Mathieu's back!

2010-01-08 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
On Jan 8, 2010, at 10:34 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 
53310 wrote:



I can't imagine how bad that was, and look forward to hearing all about
it when you feel like typing it out for us.  Did your insurance co. do
the right thing?

-Max



Max,

No offense, I really don't want to re-live the experience yet. The 
wounds are too fresh and I do not want to be a side show. The short of 
it is a 15 foot deep river went through our home. The waters began 
coming in at 3:30AM and we were lucky to escape with our lives. We 
escaped with our dog and the clothes that were in the dryer as we fled 
out of the home and were lucky to make it through the water current as 
our driveway was already awash. It was akin to watching the Titanic 
going down from the street before the entire cul-de-sac went awash. The 
water was roughly 30' deep in our back yard when all was said and done 
and three foundation walls of the house are now compromised.


FEMA is a bloody joke, you are completely subjected to the whims and 
incompetence of their adjuster with little recourse. If it were not for 
close friends we would have been on the street. Still battling with the 
flood insurance company, but looks like we will have resolution on part 
of the claim soon. It took hiring an attorney and a public adjuster to 
make this happen. It is clear that in no way will we be made whole. 
Quite the mess!


Mathieu



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Re: [MBZ] the mighty german strikes again

2010-01-08 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

On Jan 8, 2010, at 5:50 PM, Gary Hurst wrote:

she's been outside all day.  i will probably bring her in at dark with 
the
hope that the little adventure has been fully expunged.  if she still 
feel

sick, i'll just let her drink some more and then put her back outside

this is one thing good about this dog.  she will always come to you 
when she
is in distress rather than let go inside.  my other dog will just crap 
or

puke where she is if she feels the urge.

germans are clean like that!



A German with the squirts... brings back nasty memories of my youth 
from when we had five of them around the shop.  Browned chop meat and 
rice will take care of things if this does not stop on its own in 24 
hours or so. From squirts to dust bombs!



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Re: [MBZ] OT - Mathieu's back!

2010-01-08 Thread Mathieu J . Cama



On Jan 8, 2010, at 5:50 PM, Rolf wrote:

I'm happy to hear most is OK. Count yourself lucky you had flood 
insurance at all... A friend neighbors mortgage company had said that 
he could cancel his, 2 months before his house was flooded in that 
storm :(...


-Rolf


All of our neighbors had no flood insurance. Granted they still have 
habitable homes, many of them did wind up with 5 figure losses. Our 
community pulled together to help one another out after the flood. We 
give thanks for the fact that we did have flood insurance as it seems 
it will turn out OK for the most part. Still it is not near enough to 
rebuild or replace what was lost and temporary housing is not part of 
the policy. Having our health is the key. The worst of it is the loss 
of family pictures and the like. The rest is just stuff, including the 
cars. It seems Cobb county is doing a good job of taking care of its 
habitants who were effected. Gwinnett county... well that is another 
story. My heart goes out to anyone who has gone through something like 
this.



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Re: [MBZ] OT - Mathieu's back!

2010-01-08 Thread Mathieu J . Cama



On Jan 8, 2010, at 6:19 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:


what all cars did you lose in the flood?



Three... and it hurts to talk about it. I'll just say that the good 
ones are what are usually kept at home.



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Re: [MBZ] Post-Apocalypse Planning

2009-09-15 Thread Mathieu J . Cama



On Sep 15, 2009, at 11:50 AM, Rich Thomas wrote:

So will our diesels still start and run after the EMP blast?  I would 
think so, if the starter and battery don't fry.  The ACC probably 
won't, but it doesn't now, so that won't be an issue.


--R



EMP will take out the glow plug relays. Starting with the SDs (w116) 
and possibly even the 300d w115, there is a 555 timer in the relay. 
That will be fried by the EMP. A tired diesel does not like to fire 
without glow plugs.


If you want a sure shot, assuming you are still around and able to 
drive on roads that may or may not still exist, you need to have one of 
the early diesels with the manual glow plugs. It is precisely the 
reason I keep my '70 220D around. I wont have radio, but everything 
else should survive the EMP.


Mathieu



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Re: [MBZ] fuel tank screen hose

2009-09-04 Thread Mathieu J . Cama


On Sep 4, 2009, at 12:23 PM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 
53310 wrote:



Agreed on the name 'lift pump'.  The service manual merely calls it the
fuel pump, I think that lift pump is commonly used here in the states
for diesel fuel systems.  Calling it the fuel pump risks confusion with
fuel injection pump, in my opinion.

Max



The term lift pump is generally used for large American diesels, in my 
experience. I've always known it referred to as a feed pump on the MBs.



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Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner

2009-09-01 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

On Sep 1, 2009, at 12:29 AM, Peter Frederick wrote:

Roll in a new chain and replace the upper right tensioner rail NOW 
before the rail gets broken by the chain slap and the chunk falls down 
and snaps the chain, unless you WANT to do a valve job.


Check stretch every 30,000 miles and replace at 4 degrees.

Peter



This is sound advice!

Replace all the upper rails, not just the one, they are inexpensive and 
become brittle with heat cycling. Use a genuine MB tensioner only! 
Chain is not hard to do, either. Inspect the cam sprockets for wear 
while you are in there.


Mathieu


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Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner

2009-09-01 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

On Sep 1, 2009, at 5:52 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:


Now if it was this easy on a 119 motor, I would be all set.


4 cams... double the pleasure. Timing advance units... even more fun. 
Baum sells some really nice tools that should make your life 
considerably easier on that job.


Mathieu


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Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner

2009-09-01 Thread Mathieu J. Cama



  ---Original Message---
  From: Hendrik  Fay heni...@ozemail.com.au
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner
  Sent: 02 Sep '09 12:24
  
  If the tensioner is the same as the inline 4 and 6 petrol motors, then
  there is a spring and ratchet mechanism in there which would not be
  affected by oil pressure.
  Timing chain rattle is a different sound to the ticking produced by
  lifters and such. Old oil will make the ticking louder and longer.
  
  Hendrik
  

These are oil pressure fed tensioners. No spring or ratchet. Hence why folks 
get jumpy when they begin making noise. 

Chain, rails, and tensioner is a bargain compared to a full valve job and 
possibly more when the chain snaps.

This is not to say the lifters are not gummed up and making noise as well.

Mathieu

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Re: [MBZ] W115 manual steering box column

2009-08-27 Thread Mathieu J. Cama
The column is a different length from p/s to manual. BTDT retrofitting p/s into 
a manual steering '72 220d.

Mathieu


  ---Original Message---
  From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] W115 manual steering box  column
  Sent: 28 Aug '09 01:07
  
  I don't think you will need to change anything but the box, steering  
  column is probably the same.
  
  Peter
  
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Re: [MBZ] interesting W126 (picture)

2009-08-24 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

For those who want to know and seek an end to the speculation...

This car does have correct side skirts, and trunk spoiler. The bumpers 
are stock and not AMG bits. The wheels are Ronal R9, but impossible to 
say if they are AMG badged or knockoffs from the picture. This car is a 
SWB and not a LWB. Chances are someone added the AMG bits to the car 
and it is nothing more than a clone. The majority of the AMG w126s out 
there have nothing more than a body kit.


For a genuine article follow this link: 
http://www.oldworldauto.com/Images/AMG500sel/index.htm While it does 
not have the 32v m117, it is tuned with cams, tubular headers, valve 
work, suspension, LSD, body kit, interior appointments, and 3 piece 
Monoblocks. This one was a custom ordered car that was modified by AMG 
in Chicago when they used to have a facility there. Note the signal red 
and black velour combination. Not common to say the least.


Regards,

Mathieu Cama

Old World Automotive
Lawrenceville, GA
www.oldworldauto.com
404-550-8000
9:30 AM - 5:30 PM Mon-Fri


On Aug 24, 2009, at 11:52 AM, Ed Booher wrote:



I don't know about the skirts, but the wing and wheels look very 
wrong. I
*think* that's a W116 AMG wing and wheels. Did he rape a W116 AMG to 
build a

composite W126?

EdB

--
I've come to your planet on a Class IV Intergalactic Doom Freighter. 
-



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Re: [MBZ] R/R of hood hinge on a W123

2009-06-22 Thread Mathieu J . Cama


On Jun 22, 2009, at 1:56 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:


There's a buggered hood hinge on my 1983 300TD and I thought the job of
replacing it would be easy.  A guy I know who work does estimates for 
a body
shop says it requires removal of both the hood AND the fender.  Can 
this be
true?  By inspection it appears as if all the attaching hardware bolts 
are

somewhat accessible, at least...



It can be done without removing the fender and hood but such is not for 
the feint of heart. With the right recipe of tools You can pull the 
inner bolt. Helps to have a helper with very small hands to get it back 
in. This is not something to attempt for a first time on a nice car. 
I practiced on junkers before doing the job on a serviceable car.


Mathieu


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Re: [MBZ] 911 erl

2009-06-05 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

Ed,

Check out Valvoline's VR1 racing oils. These still have ZDDP. It comes  
in 20W50, 50, and 60 weight. Possibly more, but those are what I  
generally see. +/- $5/qt.


 I have been using the VR1 oil for a number of years in a variety of  
motors, including the S90 in my racer. It is not a synthetic and should  
work well in your SC. That oil had the lowest average temperatures when  
I used to hot rod a 16v VW with a digital oil temp gauge. It seems one  
of the few oils out there that has remained consistent over the 10  
years or so that I've been using it regularly.


Good to read about Shell Helix. Sounds like an oil worth looking into  
as well.


Regards,

Mathieu Cama

Old World Automotive
Lawrenceville, GA
www.oldworldauto.com
404-550-8000
9:30 AM - 5:30 PM Mon-Fri


On Jun 5, 2009, at 2:47 PM, E M wrote:

Thanks Roger.  I have a large stock of Quaker State 20/50 which I've  
used
for years.  The last of it is in the car now, so I have to decide soon  
what
to do.  I've never used a synthetic in any car yet, but I'm thinking  
about

switching them all over.  I remember reading that the M1 still has good
levels of zinc, but are still a bit below what is recommended for the  
old

air cooled 911s.  I'll look into the Shell Helix further.

Thanks again,

Ed
300E
911SC

2009/6/4 relng...@aol.com

..I'm not sure what to run in my old 911 now that the zink levels  
have
been reduced, but I'm thinking to maybe go with Rotella in that too.  
 Any

thoughts ?..

One of the leading Porsche independent shops in my area (he's a  
member of
the PCA national tech committee for 911) has decided to stop using M1  
in

the
shop because of the zinc question and is now using Shell Helix.

I switched my 944 from M1 0W40 back to M1 15/50 which is more  
available and
still is OK zinc-wise. Changed annually or thereabouts. My dealer is  
using

M1 5W40 (I don't know which flavor) with the fleece filter for their
extended oil change cars.

RLE







**
Limited Time Offers: Save big on popular laptops at Dell
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Re: [MBZ] Mercedes 240D Manual Turbocharged

2009-05-29 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
Having some direct experience with turboed om616s I'll weigh in some 
thoughts for what it is worth.


First off, an aftermarket om616 turbo will never be as robust as an 
om617A without extensive modifications.


However, it can still be a decent motor and if setup correctly can last 
quite a while. Many of the turboed om616s out there however are not 
properly setup and are doomed to premature failure.


The most significant difference, in my opinion, between the om616 and 
the om617a is the oil squirters for cooling the underside/skirt of the 
piston. These do make a big difference. These can be retrofitted if you 
have a machinist who is worth his salt in gold.


The next big difference is the IP. Budget minded folks usually just toy 
with the enrichment screws on the IP. This can cause extreme exhaust 
gas temps with a rich condition during mid-range and/or worse a 
horrible lean condition during full boost which will result in MELTING 
YOUR PISTONS. Sometimes folks just use the stock IP. Ugh! To get the 
most out of the conversion the IP needs to be re-calibrated to turbo 
specs, an ALDA added onto the IP and the governor changed to turbo 
specs. Then the injectors need to be changed to turbo specs as well. I 
only know of one IP builder that can and has done this allowing for an 
optimum balance to be achieved while running +/- 1 bar of boost. That 
was 20 years ago.


Also, proper oil supply to the turbo much be provided for. That part is 
not hard. However, to gain the most out of the conversion, the cam, 
too, should be designed for a forced induction parameters.


Taking all of the precautions and doing this on a near new om616, they 
can easily last 200k miles. Slapping a turbo on a tired om616 with no 
heed paid to the caveats generally sees a motor failing in well under 
50k miles.


Do it once and do it right. Then you can have the peace of mind to 
enjoy the ride. A properly turboed om616 with a stick behind it is 
quite a fun beast and a worthy contender to spank many of its peers its 
time. Clutches, however, become a maintenance item.  :)


Regards,

Mathieu Cama

Old World Automotive
Lawrenceville, GA
www.oldworldauto.com
404-550-8000
9:30 AM - 5:30 PM Mon-Fri


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Re: [MBZ] Mercedes 240D Manual Turbocharged

2009-05-29 Thread Mathieu J . Cama




On May 29, 2009, at 3:46 PM, tyler wrote:

This is only true on a gasoline engine which risks pre-detonation. A 
turbo diesel simply has reduced power when it runs lean under boost, 
but usually lower rather than higher EGTs. An NA injector pump won't 
meter fuel as accurately as one with an ALDA, but if tuned 
conservatively it won't put the motor at any extra risk, it just won't 
perform as well...


Look at the VW ecodiesel, which as sold with an NA injector pump and a 
turbo. They run lean under boost all the time, which improves fuel 
economy, reduces emissions, and reduces power. They don't melt 
pistons...


Tyler


Tyler,

Then please explain the four MB diesel that I directly know of with 
melted pistons from an excessive lean condition. Lean = hot, turbo or 
not! Detonation is more the cracked piston route which can be acerbated 
by a lean condition. I'm not talking lean as in only a few % off from 
spec, here.


No point in adding a turbo if it is only for bragging rights. Add it 
only if you plan to do something with it.


You can do it the cheap way and only get marginal gains that are hardly 
worth the time and effort of the conversion or you can do it right and 
have a really nice machine to show for it afterwards.


Regards,

Mathieu Cama

Old World Automotive
Lawrenceville, GA
www.oldworldauto.com
404-550-8000
9:30 AM - 5:30 PM Mon-Fri


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Re: [MBZ] Mercedes 240D Manual Turbocharged

2009-05-29 Thread Mathieu J . Cama



On May 29, 2009, at 5:20 PM, tyler wrote:

Is it possible the pistons melted for some reason other than a lean 
condition? I can't explain why those four vehicles melted pistons 
since I haven't seen them- but I can't imagine it being caused by a 
lean condition. Lean = cold, rich = hot EGTs in a diesel. Surely 
someone else can back me up on this? I have tuned several modified 
diesels with an EGT gauge, and lean equals less smoke, low EGTs, less 
power, and rich equals more smoke, high EGTs, more power.


Perhaps those engines were actually running too rich, were being 
lugged, or had their injection timing set incorrectly?


Tyler




Tyler,

The common denominator for all of those motors and the respective 
cylinders that experienced the heat damage were defective injectors 
(melted pistons and cracked/melted rings). The three motors I 
personally examined after the fact had injectors on the respective 
cylinders with way above spec pop-pressures and poor spray pattern. 
These motors were a mix of low and higher mileage, IP timings set to 
the T, and driven so that there was not really any carbon on their 
valves; driven as a diesel should. Two of those motors suffered their 
deaths in less than 10k miles of having injectors installed, the other 
after about 20k and did not nail when hot, and just a hint at startup. 
The symptoms came on hard and sudden without warning. The other one, 
iirc, also had recent injector replacements. Since that fiasco, I never 
install any injector without testing it first, regardless of the maker 
or the seller.


i understand where you are coming from regarding too rich and high 
heat, however, there is also heat that can be caused by a lean 
condition that plays hand in hand with detonation. As with most things 
in life, there are exceptions to the rules.


Mathieu


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Re: [MBZ] Mercedes 240D Manual Turbocharged

2009-05-29 Thread Mathieu J . Cama



On May 29, 2009, at 5:35 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:


Mathieu J. Cama wrote:




You don't know what the heck you're talking about?


Sure, not a clue.


Or you didn't mean to say diesel?


Must have been a typo.

If an excessive lean condition melted diesels, they'd all drop dead 
idling in traffic jams.


Mitch.




Conditions change under near max to max load.  Much more stress AND 
heat.



Mathieu


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Re: [MBZ] Mercedes 240D Manual Turbocharged

2009-05-29 Thread Mathieu J . Cama



On May 29, 2009, at 5:43 PM, tyler wrote:

I think what you are describing is something else entirely from a lean 
condition. If the injectors had a poor spray pattern and/or the wrong 
opening pressure- they could have been injecting fuel too soon 
(leaking) which would cause similar problems to pre-detonation in a 
gasoline motor. This never happens on a properly working diesel 
regardless of air/fuel ratio, since normally the fuel is injected 
right at the correct time for ignition.





A too high of a pop pressure will never result in an early injection. 
If anything, too little volume if any at all will be injected. A low 
pop-pressure will often result in detonation (heard by nailing), and 
often if left unchecked will cause the injector to stream. That will 
also destroy a piston in short order.



A diesel with good injectors and correct injection timing will not 
suffer damage due to pre-detonation regardless of how much (or how 
little) fuel you supply or how much boost you run- because the fuel 
doesn't enter the combustion chamber until the correct time.


Tyler


Yes, timing is critical to avoiding detonation. Injection quality is 
critical too. However, take 3 cylinders operating as they should, and 
make the injector in the 4th have about 1/2 its required fuel and drive 
the hell out of the motor and you will have damage in short order. 
BTDT, seen the result.


Mathieu


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Re: [MBZ] Euro 500SEL $1K

2009-05-20 Thread Mathieu J . Cama



On May 20, 2009, at 9:17 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:


Notably faster than the 560's?

-- Jim






Yes.


Regards,

Mathieu Cama

Old World Automotive
Lawrenceville, GA
www.oldworldauto.com
404-550-8000
9:30 AM - 5:30 PM Mon-Fri


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Re: [MBZ] Euro 500SEL $1K

2009-05-19 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

Alex,

That car has no springs, the hydraulic struts do it all. The full 
hydromat cars are a joy to behold when all is in good working order and 
a bargain compared to the air suspension cars of old. Chances are it 
will need new accumulators (5 in total on that car). If the shocks are 
leaking, then they will need replacement to the tune of $400 or so each 
last I checked. While not a car for a pauper's budget, if you can give 
it proper care and feeding, it will be worth your efforts.


I own an '85 Euro 500sel with full hydromat. It is my favorite for long 
highway trips and is a joy; truly what a luxury sedan is all about. 
Power? Plenty to spare. If the car is nice and not clapped out, jump on 
it, very few of these are still around in nice shape. I'll part with my 
AMG 500sel long before parting with my Euro.


Regards,

Mathieu Cama

Old World Automotive
Lawrenceville, GA
www.oldworldauto.com
404-550-8000
9:30 AM - 5:30 PM Mon-Fri


On May 19, 2009, at 1:24 PM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:

On Tue, May 19, 2009 at 5:58 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net 
wrote:

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/1176932781.html
Plus Jim has already solved all the 126
SLS leakage problems that it could possibly have, right? ;)


Probably has rock-hard rear suspension due to expired
spheres, and the resulting pressure spikes have popped
something.  Sort-able, though.  Interesting, it appears
to have an airbag in '82?


Asked the seller in email, he says the rear leaks down slowly when the
car sits, but it takes a couple of months to do so.  It has 4-wheel
SLS with the height adjustment switch like a Citroen or a 6.9!  Neato!
 Says it does need new shocks all around, how hard are those to
change?  Don't tell me I need a spring compressor, I don't want to be
taking my head off early if I can avoid it.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Euro 500SEL $1K

2009-05-19 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

They start at 238 HP DIN.  :)


Regards,

Mathieu Cama

Old World Automotive
Lawrenceville, GA
www.oldworldauto.com
404-550-8000
9:30 AM - 5:30 PM Mon-Fri


On May 19, 2009, at 3:53 PM, Tyler wrote:

How much horsepower do these things have? Euro means high compression, 
and no emissions equipment, right?


Wikipedia says the curb weight is 3649 lb, which is less than I 
expected for a car that large and powerful.


Sincerely,
Tyler



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Re: [MBZ] Euro 500SEL $1K

2009-05-19 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
Mine has the tallest diff at 2.24:1. However, you could get them as 
steep as 3.46:1, which my AMG happens to have in LSD form. The 2.24:1 
is still plenty fast off the line with the Euro motor and gives 
wonderful highway manners. The 3.46:1 is simply ridiculous and makes 
for quite the stoplight to stoplight machine if that is your thing. I 
wish the 2.24:1 came in LSD, though. Unfortunately it is an open diff. 
The diff will be stamped with the ratio, so make sure to check it out 
when you look at it. If it says SP smile a lot, it will be limited 
slip, if it happens to say G, remove it and sell it to me.  :)


150 is a bit of a stretch, but 140 or thereabouts is quite attainable, 
it will all depend on diff ratio. I've had mine to 135 with room to go. 
After 120 the car just hunkers down low and becomes a different beast, 
but still most civilized, better than glass, like fine lead crystal. At 
100, it feels like 45 and even the in-laws in the back have no idea, to 
them I think it is always 65.  ;)


Get the VIN so we can pull a datacard.

Regards,

Mathieu Cama

Old World Automotive
Lawrenceville, GA
www.oldworldauto.com
404-550-8000
9:30 AM - 5:30 PM Mon-Fri


On May 19, 2009, at 3:59 PM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:


Which means that, depending on the rear end ratio (I think you could
order a wide variety of diffs in Europe), they are, I am reliably
informed, anywhere from fast to scary fast.  :)   These were the
flagship cars from Mercedes in the early-'80s---intended to fill the
shoes of the W116 6.9---and had to be able to go 150 mph all day long
on the Autobahn in order to maintain the image.


On Tue, May 19, 2009 at 12:57 PM, Mathieu J. Cama 
c...@oldworldauto.com wrote:

They start at 238 HP DIN.  :)


Regards,

Mathieu Cama

Old World Automotive
Lawrenceville, GA
www.oldworldauto.com
404-550-8000
9:30 AM - 5:30 PM Mon-Fri


On May 19, 2009, at 3:53 PM, Tyler wrote:

How much horsepower do these things have? Euro means high 
compression, and

no emissions equipment, right?

Wikipedia says the curb weight is 3649 lb, which is less than I 
expected

for a car that large and powerful.

Sincerely,
Tyler



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Re: [MBZ] 560 SEL shifting

2009-05-15 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
Kickdown switch stuck closed or kickdown solenoid is stuck in activated 
position. Both of those match your symptoms 100% and other defects 
would have other symptoms. What gives it away is the car dropping into 
first when leaving a stop. That is activated by the kickdown mechanism 
or by manually downshifting the shift selector. Bowden cable should not 
activate 1st on the 722.3xx.


Quick test: remove the electrical connector at the kickdown solenoid. 
Passenger side, tail of the trans., single round connector in black 
plastic. If the problem stops, look to the switch, if not look to the 
solenoid.


Regards,

Mathieu Cama

Old World Automotive
Lawrenceville, GA
www.oldworldauto.com
404-550-8000
9:30 AM - 5:30 PM Mon-Fri


On May 15, 2009, at 9:34 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:

Also as I recall their is a one valve assembly which has different 
springs
for first gear start. thus if the seals on this value is bad or 
sticking it

can cause problems.


I can say that I'm pretty sure I feel it drop into 1st from 2nd
when leaving a stop, and that with the cable loosened it definitely
wants to jump through the higher gears faster than optimal, though
you don't have to release the pedal as much (or at all, at lighter
takeoffs) to get it to shift out of first.  Forward engagement time
is a second or less, reverse somewhat longer.  Any kind of exuberant
takeoff results in bouncing off of redline, until you release the
throttle to get it into higher gears, then you can mash it again.
Usable, but irritating, and not something I really want to hand
off to my wife to drive, which was the original point.

No suggestions?  Don't really want to double the price of the
car with a replacement tranny, and besides it seems to shift well
except for its 'separation anxiety'.  Not afraid to dive into
things, if I know what to expect and have some idea of what I'm
doing.  Valve body RR?  Easy.  Valve body surgery?  Would be
my first time!  Can't be any worse than taking apart (and
reassembling into working condition) the dial bar of an old
Friden rotary calculator, which I did as a youth.

But _what_ to be doing, that is what I lack.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Replacing coil springs, 300D

2009-05-13 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
All the information Loren speaks of is in the TDM (Technical data  
manual). They were published annually for the most part and cover  
information pertinent for a specific model year range. My collection of  
these is one of the most valuable tools I have in my technical library.


FWIW, never and I mean never try to RR front springs on one of these  
cars without the proper tools. Use the Klann compressor or nothing. Is  
your life really worth being a cheapskate about this sort of thing?  
Last I checked, spare lives and limbs were on backorder. I've seen  
first hand what happens when one of these springs lets fly and it is  
akin to a grenade going off. It has enough force to decapitate you!


Regarding the OPs car, before condemning springs look to all the other  
suspension rubber as suggested by your fellow listers. Shot upper and  
lower ball-joints will cause a good 1 of ride height to be lost alone!  
However, despite the pontifications of many in the MB online community,  
these springs do become weak and require replacement over time. The way  
to check besides the obviously broken or completely collapsed spring is  
to remove the spring and measure it. Then compare that length to the  
specification given in the TDM. The TDM provides strict instructions on  
how to measure the springs. Knowing the chassis and the colors on the  
springs will allow you to determine the correct specification. Lastly,  
always replace springs in pairs and ideally on all four corners at a  
time. It does make a difference.


Lastly, if replacing the springs, make sure you have the correct spring  
pads to replace the worn out, old ones with. They are often dry rotten,  
collapsed, and sometimes gone missing. The TDM also covers the variety  
of spring pads available. Those nubs on the side of the upper pad have  
meaning.




Regards,

Mathieu Cama

Old World Automotive
Lawrenceville, GA
www.oldworldauto.com
404-550-8000
9:30 AM - 5:30 PM Mon-Fri


On May 13, 2009, at 9:49 AM, Loren Faeth wrote:

Unless you have a broken spring, I'd be looking for suspension  
components, subframe mounts, control arm bushings, etc.  Then move to  
the spring rubber bushings.  I am not sure where to find them for 123,  
but there were factory specs published for earlier models about the  
height of good springs out of the car, as well as how to decipher the  
color code markings on the spring.  I would guess they are in the  
factory manuals or CDs.


Call rusty for a kit price for the front or rear suspension.  800 741  
5252



At 07:41 AM 5/13/2009, you wrote:

Hello,

Has anyone replaced coil springs once? I am trying to see if I could  
do it myself on a 300D, 1981. Not too long ago, I replaced the shocks  
with Bilstein's but it won't do it, the car is still too much like a  
boat, especially on the interstate.

Thank you.

--PT, 300D 1981



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Loren Faeth

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Re: [MBZ] Frustration at underfunctioning door locks, w123 300TD

2009-05-01 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
The door lock vacuum lines are color coded. A quick look in the factory  
service manual will reveal what color does what. However, as so many  
folks out there are inclined to work on their cars without the proper  
tools and literature (which is a tool in its own right) here is a quick  
run down on some common vacuum tubing colors related to the door lock  
system. This will pertain to the following chassis at a minimum: 108,  
109, 114, 115, 107, 116, 123, 126.


Door lock open (unlock) circuit: yellow with green stripe.

Door lock closed (locked) circuit: yellow with red stripe.

Vacuum supply to door lock system: yellow.

Supply line to vacuum plenum: yellow with gray stripe.

Supply line for HVAC: green with yellow stripe.

Blue, iirc: (SLs and coupes for seat locking mechanism).

In the archives, be it here or on mbz.org (from way back when) I have  
provided step by step procedures for door lock and vacuum shut off  
diagnosis. The test points for the door locks are easily found under  
the front carpets, under the black plastic cover by the longitudinal,  
close to the outer seat mount. In short, if the actuator does not hold  
vacuum it is defective and needs to be replaced.  These are black and  
white, pass or fail. While on the topic, the door switch in the drivers  
door seldom fails and more often that not leaks as a result of improper  
alignment.


Mathieu



On May 1, 2009, at 4:19 PM, WILTON wrote:

To alleviate fear of reconnecting the vac lines wrong, code them with  
little spots of different color paints on the lines and connectors.  I  
have several small bottles of different color artist's paint that work  
very nicely for such.  Different color tapes could do it,  too.


Wilton

- Original Message - From: andrew strasfogel  
astrasfo...@gmail.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, May 01, 2009 2:38 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Frustration at underfunctioning door locks, w123  
300TD



This is great in theory, but what I have found in practice is that  
the lines
are a b*tch to disconnect, and if I do more than one at a time there  
is that
fear of reconnecting them the WRONG way, with unknown but potentially  
DIRE

consequences...
[with homage to Marshall...]

On Fri, May 1, 2009 at 2:05 PM, Craig McCluskey diese...@cnsp.com  
wrote:



On Fri, 1 May 2009 11:57:40 -0400 andrew strasfogel
astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote:

 Brilliant!  You'd be amazed at how much these tidbits of practical
 konwledge mean to me.  ;)

 
  Golf tees are your friends.

I figured everyone knew ...

Not being there to point out things makes it frustrating trying to  
help.


Isolating the problem to the lock circuit, as opposed to both  
circuits,

does narrow things down.

The section in the shop manual should tell you the colors of hard  
line to
expect. Isolating the problem to one of the three vacuum lines that  
go

through the firewall into the passenger compartment (NOT the one that
comes back out and goes to the injection pump) will help, too.

Then, it's a matter of taking your Mity-Vac and going down the lines  
from
the vacuum source to each of the destinations, evacuating each one  
that

branches off the main line separately.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

2009-04-28 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
I don't understand all your fuss about pulling the balancer, the 
reality is all you will be pulling is the rubber dampening ring, the 
harmonic balancer will stay in place. It is quite simple. Remove 
radiator. 1/2 hour max. Remove pulley for the belts then remove the 
dampener ring. Maximum, 1.5 hours total to get the ring off for a 
novice. Condenser stays in place. With all the time you have wasted 
with futile attempts and posting here you could have had it apart 
already and be going back together.


While in there, ideal time to replace all the belts, anyways. As you 
mentioned the pulley for the water pump is behind the damper. Even if 
you got the lower bolt loose, you would not have enough room to get the 
bolt out enough to remove the water pump with the dampener in place. 
The access hole is offset on those later m117s and is all but useless 
in helping with this job. Lastly, with the dampener out of the way, you 
will be able to properly prep the face of the timing cover for the new 
pump to mate to. As with any job, cleanliness is critical.


The facts are what they are and all the whining in the world is not 
going to change anything. Check your MB V8 factory service manual (4.2 
and 5.6, not 3.5 and 4.5) if in doubt.


Mathieu


On Apr 28, 2009, at 1:29 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:

Same as the 72 M117?  Just a royal pain to get the pulley in exactly 
the correct position as I remember, using a standard 3/8 drive  
socket.


That's what I thought initially, but I've been having real
trouble.  Doesn't help that I can't see, I'll hate to have
to pull the radiator and evaporator.  Also, the stupid
WP pulley is trapped on the end of the shaft by the crank
pulley.  That's in the way, too.

I'm going to be _really_ mad if I have to pull the crank
pulley/balancer.

I think you just need to give up and send the 560 SEL to me in North 
Alabama
where it can enjoy a nice quiet retirement in the sun. I promise to 
take the


My favorite quote:  Never give up, never surrender!

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

2009-04-28 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
The balancer and the rubber dampening ring are two very different 
parts. The balancer is still held on with the large 27mm  bolt. The 
dampener ring is held on by the six crank pulley bolts. Very similar to 
a om617a. The dampener ring is often referred to as the harmonic 
balancer by mistake. The dampener is the large green disk and the 
harmonic is considerably smaller in diameter and resides behind the 
dampener.


Regards,

Mathieu Cama

Old World Automotive
Lawrenceville, GA
www.oldworldauto.com
404-550-8000
9:30 AM - 5:30 PM Mon-Fri


On Apr 28, 2009, at 10:42 AM, Peter Frederick wrote:

Benz must have changed over to the separate balancer/hub system with 
the aluminum block then.  The balancer will be held on by six hex head 
bolts and is easy to take off -- the hub stays put on the crank.


The balancer is larger diameter than the older one, I believe, and 
hence will have to come off.  Not a big deal, since you don't have to 
remove the crank bolt.


Peter

-Original Message-

From: Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net
Sent: Apr 28, 2009 12:29 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump


Same as the 72 M117?  Just a royal pain to get the pulley in exactly
the correct position as I remember, using a standard 3/8 drive  
socket.


That's what I thought initially, but I've been having real
trouble.  Doesn't help that I can't see, I'll hate to have
to pull the radiator and evaporator.  Also, the stupid
WP pulley is trapped on the end of the shaft by the crank
pulley.  That's in the way, too.

I'm going to be _really_ mad if I have to pull the crank
pulley/balancer.


I think you just need to give up and send the 560 SEL to me in North
Alabama
where it can enjoy a nice quiet retirement in the sun. I promise to
take the


My favorite quote:  Never give up, never surrender!

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] @#$% 560 SEL water pump

2009-04-27 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

yes.


On Apr 27, 2009, at 10:54 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:


remove the balancer?

Jim Cathey wrote:

Another half hour wasted on that water pump.  I _can't_ see how
to get a wrench on that last stinkin' bolt.  (The one on the
bottom.)  I've tried every socket, U-joint, wrench that I've
got.  I can barely feel the bolt head with my fingertips, and
the notches in the harmonic balancer just don't seem to be deep
enough.  Anybody got any suggestions?
-- Jim--





Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E,
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com



Regards,

Mathieu Cama

Old World Automotive
Lawrenceville, GA
www.oldworldauto.com
404-550-8000
9:30 AM - 5:30 PM Mon-Fri


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Re: [MBZ] 1980 300D Climate Control.

2009-02-19 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

On Feb 19, 2009, at 11:59 AM, Rusty Cullens wrote:


I sell the Unwired Tools kit for $675.00

Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
Tel 1-800-741-5252
Fax   770-454-9745



This is the way to go. Clean system, works nicely and efficiently. The 
installation can be made a bit nicer than the instructions call for, 
but the product itself is quite sound. This product makes owning an 
ACCII car worthy of contemplation once again.


Servos should be sold on a lease basis. It is only a matter of time 
until they fail.


Regards,

Mathieu Cama

Old World Automotive
Lawrenceville, GA
www.oldworldauto.com
404-550-8000
9:30 AM - 5:30 PM Mon-Fri


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Re: [MBZ] Motoroam road trip #1.

2009-01-29 Thread Mathieu J . Cama


On Jan 29, 2009, at 2:02 PM, Rolf Martin-Hoster wrote:

Going down to Pass Christian to fetch the Motoroam. Turns out it is a 
L508D,
got the datacard. Steven at Euro Truck importers hooked me up with oil 
and
fuel filters. 2 friends and I are going to leave after work tomorrow 
and

drive 411 miles. With any luck I'll be driving back on Sunday with the
hooptie.


Can't wait.



I'm glad to read Steve was able to get you what you needed. Good luck 
on your trip, hopefully all goes smoothly.


Mathieu


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Re: [MBZ] ADVICE NEEDED ASAP...KALEB!???!! ANYONE?!?!?!?

2009-01-25 Thread Mathieu J. Cama



  ---Original Message---
  From: Christopher McCann xtofer1...@yahoo.com
  Subject: [MBZ] ADVICE NEEDED ASAP...KALEB!???!! ANYONE?!?!?!?
  Sent: 25 Jan '09 23:23
  
  Kaleb (or anyone else),
  
  You remember the $350 '82 300SD...well, I have it on CL for $1650:
  
  http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/1004824610.html
  
  A guy with an '87 300E came to look at it last night. Turns out, he has it 
 on CL too:
  
  http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/998880287.html
  
  He doesn't buy, but calls back today and wants to trade - even swap. He 
 needs a running car and fears that he will 
not get anything for the 300E as it has a cold start problem that he cannot 
solve. He's replaced 6 injectors, rotor and 
distributor. (PO did valve job and timing chain). Anyway, I did a little 
research on 300E cold start problem and it is 
clear that he has not addressed some of the simplest things - cold start valve, 
temp sensor, bunch of other things to 
check first.
  
  I am inclined to do this trade as it could be a really simple fix...seems 
 that it is LIKELY to be a simple fix. OTOH, it 
could be expensive and complicated.
  
  I HAVE NO EXPERIENCE WITH GASSERS, SO I DONT KNOW IF IT IS A GOOD IDEA TO 
 GO AHEAD AND TRADE. I 
have a 7:30 meeting to look at it. Appartently has almost no rust, nice 
interior, fast, drives well, blah blah.
  
  THOUGHTS?
  
  Chris
  
  

Chris,

Check the fuse on the top of the OVP (behind the battery on the passenger side, 
silver relay with a 10 amp fuse (red) 
in the top of it). If it is blown, your fix may be as simple as replacing the 
fuse or the OVP.   ;)

A decent w124 is a nice driving car, but in no way does it measure up to a 
w126. Beware of worn links in the rear 
multi-link suspension, rust by the rear sub-frame mounts and rockers, and the 
other issues known for MBs of this era. 
What is the hot idle oil pressure and at what RPM does the gauge peg out at 3 
bar when hot after a good run? Also, is 
the gearbox still decent on it? Major delay going into reverse? 

For the under $2k market one can not be too picky.

Is it a good trade? That will have a lot to do with your own preferences. If 
your SD is worn out and the 300e is not, it 
may be a good move. On the interstate a w126 is a great machine, the w124 is 
fun in the twisties. Truly, apples and 
oranges.

Mathieu

2 w126s, one w201, but no w124s.


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[MBZ] 14 degrees here in south gwinnett, ga

2009-01-16 Thread Mathieu J. Cama

[MBZ] 14 degrees here in south gwinnett, ga
Gary Hurst
Thu, 15 Jan 2009 21:18:34 -0800

that won't impress most of you freezing americans, but that is damn cold for
atlanta

We're showing 9 degrees a few miles down the road from you. When I lived in 
Western NY that was relatively warm for 
this time of year, but after almost 12 years down South, this is, as you say, 
damn cold!

Mathieu



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Re: [MBZ] Strange 500SE Smoke Problem

2009-01-15 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

John,

Also, check to see if the brake booster is filled with fluid. The 
downhill angle and white smoke point towards that as a potential cause. 
Brake fluid will smoke like ATF. Voluminous smoke and a smell that is 
unique when burned.


Mathieu

-mired in a 230sl all week



On Jan 15, 2009, at 4:04 PM, John Robbins wrote:


R A Bennell wrote:
Could it have siphoned AT fluid into the intake via a vaccuum hose or 
something like that? I had an issue with my
old Suburban once that oiled up the air filter. It was because the 
PCV valve was not inserted into the valve cover.
Not quite the same but sort of an odd thing to happen. Look for 
simple things first!


Excellent idea!  I will definitely be looking into that.  I have 
noticed a hose on the valve cover is missing, but there is no oil in 
the air filter.


I like simple fixes! :)

John


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Re: [MBZ] Strange 500SE Smoke Problem

2009-01-15 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

John, et al,

Very common for the tail seal on the brake master to fail and allow 
brake fluid to get sucked into the booster. The booster is always under 
vacuum (when motor is running) and thus a weak tail seal will easily 
pass fluid. Eventually the brake fluid eats out the diaphragm in the 
booster if left unattended for too long.


A faulty rear flex line will not cause smoke unless the rotor and brake 
pads are saturated with fluid and you are driving the car like a 
racecar. Generally not a good mix.


To diagnose: Remove the brake booster vac. supply line from the booster 
(be careful as they are often brittle from heat cycling and age) and 
insert a thin proboscis (MB hard vac. line works great for this if it 
is not brittle) into the booster and see if it comes back wet. If so, 
replace or rebuild the master cylinder and suck out the booster with 
your MityVac. If the brakes make a whooshing sound in the cabin when 
you hit the pedal or worse, a constant hiss from the pedal block area, 
replace the booster. It is not a bad job, just the part is expensive.



While we are on about brakes here is a PSA for everyone... if your 
brake flex lines are original, replace them all. These things have a 
usable life of about 10-15 years. All to often I come across cars with 
the original brake flex lines. The '59 220s I did a few months ago had 
its original lines. 49 year old flex lines! The 230sl I'm working on at 
the moment had lines date stamped 1980. Most w123, w126, w114/5, r/c107 
I see still have the original lines in them. The rears like to dry rot 
at the caliper and eventually burst. If yours are original or showing 
signs of dry rot, replace them now, do not wait for them to fail as it 
could be yours or someone else's life. It is relatively inexpensive and 
simple to do when performing a brake fluid service (recommended every 
two years at minimum). Brakes are not a place to scrimp with the 
dollar. I personally prefer MB genuine flex lines, but FTEs and ATEs 
have proven to be reliable. For brake fluid, I only use ATE SuperBlue 
in my personal and customer cars. It only takes one instance of boiled 
brake fluid to make one a believer in the Blue.




Welcome to the Euro m117 club, John. They are wonderful machines. Also, 
if tuned properly, they make the US spec 560 seem weak in comparison!


Mathieu

'84 500sel AMG
'85 500sel with full hydromat
'86 500sl ECE (contemplating selling)

On Jan 15, 2009, at 4:30 PM, John Robbins wrote:


Mathieu J. Cama wrote:
Also, check to see if the brake booster is filled with fluid. The 
downhill angle and white smoke point towards that as a potential 
cause. Brake fluid will smoke like ATF. Voluminous smoke and a smell 
that is unique when burned.


Good idea! Kaleb says the rear brake line is leaking, but maybe it is 
the master cylinder instead?  The smoke was coming out of the 
tailpipe, and I don't think a leaky brake line would do that.


John


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Re: [MBZ] Premium v. Regular

2008-12-30 Thread Mathieu J. Cama
Here is all that I have to say on this subject...  

You drive a Mercedes-Benz. These cars are designed to run on gasoline that is 
much better than the goat's piss we can 
even get in the US. It costs what, $3-5 more per tank for premium? Much less 
expensive than the havoc the cheap 
fuel is placing on your injectors, ignition system, and even your rings at a 
minimum.

The only MB I run on regular is the Unimog. It gets 12 mpg on a good day and 
has a 7.8:1 compression ratio. Your 
poor m103 with a 9 or 10 :1 CR, no wonder it is pinging! An no, there is not a 
knock sensor on that motor (at least 
the early ones). They will ping until they crack a ring and melt a piston. Look 
at the m100 (6.3) rebuild pictures on 
my website. That is what a lean mixture and advanced timing will do for you. 
Not much different than running crap 
fuel in a high compression motor. In the end one always pays... sooner (good 
fuel) or later ($$$ to your mechanic 
and parts dealer).

If you can't afford to feed your MB good fuel, you should be driving a Toyota 
or Honda. 

Mathieu
www.oldworldauto.com


  ---Original Message---
  From: Tony Wirtel tony.wir...@gmail.com
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Premium v. Regular
  Sent: 31 Dec '08 02:22
  
  Does the M103 have a knock sensor?  I didn't think they did.  Mine pings big
  time with 87.
  
  Tony Wirtel
  
  
  
   -Original Message-
   From: Donald Snook dsn...@mtsqh.com
   Date: Tuesday, Dec 30, 2008 11:54 am
   Subject: [MBZ] Premium v. Regular was Re:  Fuel prices
   To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.comReply-To: Mercedes
   Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
  
   Andrew wrote: Do you require premium or regular gas?
   
   That is up in the air right now.  The manual says premium, the fuel
   cap/door say premium.  But, I have asked a few others that have this car 
 and
   some of them say it needs premium and others say it is a waste of money.  I
   have not noticed any difference in mileage or performance when using 87
   octane.  I was concerned that it might ping but it has not.  I don't know
   what to think, so I have been putting in 91 (premium) about every other
   tank.
   
   I talked to one of the techs at the dealership I worked at and he said
   that if the octane is too low and it starts to ping, the knock sensor will
   catch it and it will retard the timing slightly to compensate for it.  So,
   it is possible that I might have less power with 87 than with 91.  I don't
   really know what to think.  In the past (especially in my 90 300SEL), I
   thought I could tell a difference when I put in 87 rather than 91.  Maybe I
   was just imagining it.
   
   
   Donald H. Snook
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[MBZ] 117 timing chain stretch

2008-12-30 Thread Mathieu J. Cama
[MBZ] 117 timing chain stretch
Tom Savage
Tue, 30 Dec 2008 20:12:28 -0800

Does anyone know how the timing chain stretch is measured on a an M117? This is 
on a '91 560SEL and I've never been 
inside one. Marks on the cam tower like an OM617? I've got to pull the covers 
as the gaskets are letting oil out all over 
the manifold and figure that at 150k miles, I oughta check the (presumed 
original) chain as well.

Thanks,
Tom


Tom,

Very similar to the om617 in concept and methodology. I like to set the 
passenger cam to TDC and measure the stretch 
on the harmonic. If you have no proof the chain has been done, make it simple 
for yourself: new chain, tensioner, and 
all upper guide rails. Cheap insurance in light of an m117 jumping time. It is 
the guide rails that generally fail. Also, 
inspect the sprockets well. These are often worn if the car has seen lackluster 
maintenance or thin oil. Of course, for a 
job like this, genuine MB parts are best. If the upper rails are rather dark, 
replace the tensioner guide rail as well, but, at 
least, ensure you inspect it well. It does like to exhibit grooves into the 
plastic sheathing and will become brittle, too, 
with age. If you are doing all of that, consider a water pump and possibly even 
a front main seal. Given the age and 
mileage, all of these will be due sooner than later. Couple it all together, 
makes your life simpler in the long run and 
makes for less financial expenditure for the customer, too, in the long run. 
FYI, to time this motor correctly, you really 
need to use a dial indicator as indicated in the manuals.

Remember to inspect the passenger cam lobes for wear. Run that motor 2 quarts 
low on oil and chances are strong that 
cam will be damaged. It does not take long to wear a lobe down once the 
hardening has been compromised.

Lastly, look carefully at the headgaskets at the rear and sides of the motor. 
These motors are famous for leaking there. 
You can attempt to re-torque the heads, but it is not a risk I would recommend 
taking without a signed waiver. 

Have fun, those are great motors and a real joy when correct. The home and 
Japanese market and ECE variant will knock 
your socks off with a true 300hp DIN (117.968, iirc). 

Mathieu

Happy New Year, ya'll



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Re: [MBZ] Removal of W111 coupe speedometer

2008-12-17 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
This is a coupe and not a sedan; the two have very different dash  
arrangements. The one large knurled nut holding the cluster only  
applies to the sedans. The coupe has two large round gauges, plus the  
middle combi-gauge in the pod. Each gauge has two small (est. 10mm)  
diameter knurled metal nuts that hold a C-shaped bracket which pulls  
the gauge into the pod. Removing the e-brake and relay/electrical block  
does help one get their hands up there, but truly, smaller hands do  
make this a simpler task. It was much easier for me at 12 years of age  
to get my hands up there than it is now. Yes, once the nuts and speedo  
cable are removed, the gauge will be able to be pressed out of the pod.  
Be wary of the the slide-in instrument lamp socket(s). They can be  
fragile. The gauges can be RRed with the pod in situ. This job should  
be done with a relatively warm ambient temperature as many items in  
that area will be brittle in the cold and subject to stress induced  
damage.


Mathieu
www.oldworldauto.com


On Dec 17, 2008, at 1:03 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:


Peter,

Thanks - very helpful.  Just to make sure - do I need to loosen and  
remove
the cluster?  Do the gauges push out from the back or in from the  
front?


On Wed, Dec 17, 2008 at 12:57 PM, Peter Frederick  
psf...@earthlink.netwrote:


Remove the parking brake bracket from the under-dash support and you  
will
have remove to get in there.  Easier to remove than to install, but  
if you

don't put it back on, the cluster tends to fall out of the dash

Peter

-Original Message-

From: andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com
Sent: Dec 17, 2008 11:27 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Removal of W111 coupe speedometer

That is correct, but I was hoping NOT to have to remove the entire

cluster.

Getting to that knob is a real bear of a job.

On Wed, Dec 17, 2008 at 10:57 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net

wrote:



Not even remotely OT, IMHO.

So can someone please provide a quick tutorial on the R/R of the  
speedo?




I'm no expert, but aren't these the cars with a knurled
thumbscrew that holds the cluster in?  You have to find
it by feel and remove it, then the cluster pops out the
front.  Or so I think.  I don't have one.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Removal of W111 coupe speedometer

2008-12-17 Thread Mathieu J . Cama


On Dec 17, 2008, at 4:01 PM, Loren Faeth wrote:


Andrew,

GO with what Mathieu says.  My experience is limited to the 110 and 
220Sb 111.  My write up is for them, and based on what Mathieu says, 
yours IS different.  I think it is more or less the same as 108.  I 
took one of them out, but I don't remember how it came out.




For those in question, here is what a 111 coupe dash looks like. 
http://oldworldauto.com/Images/2220seb/220seb/pages/DSCN2346_JPG.htm


108 and 111 sedan dashes are very different from the cps/conv. FWIW, 
220, 250, and 280 se cps and convs. are all w111 cars. There is no such 
thing as a w108 coupe. The rarebird of the class would be the w112 
coupes. M189 with air suspension.


While on the issue, sure, that knurled nut on the w108 and w111 cars is 
a real PITA to get on and off, it is worth re-installing. Without the 
nut, at some point that cluster will pop out of the dash. It may take 
10 years or 10 miles, but they do come out on their own. Also, without 
the nut, one will often get an annoying dash rattle. The worst part for 
me is not getting my hand up in there, it is contorting my back to fit 
in the foot well so that I may get my hand in there. Still, a simple 
job when compared to RRing wiper transmissions on a w111.


Mathieu



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Re: [MBZ] Removal of W111 coupe speedometer

2008-12-17 Thread Mathieu J. Cama



  ---Original Message---
  From: andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Removal of W111 coupe speedometer
  Sent: 18 Dec '08 04:39
  
  Hey Mat, everything you say makes sense except where is the
  relay/electrical block?

I used those terms loosely. There is a bracket with the electrical connectors, 
for the combi-switch iirc, and possibly 
another like it in the vicinity with a relay or another connector. The bolts 
have 8mm heads, bracket at mounting point 
about 2 * 1 rectangle, usually plated in yellow cad. They will bolt up under 
the dash, by the edge where the kick panel 
would just cover, in the neighborhood of the parking brake handle when 
extended. Removing the bolts for the bracket 
give a bit more wiggle room around the electrical snakes that lie in the deep. 
You can remove them entirely, but the 
connectors are often fragile. This/these brackets are not hidden and should be 
rather obvious when you look under the 
dash. Possible your car has only one bracket; there may be two as it is a later 
example. Remember, the insulation on the 
wires may be brittle from age and break in the cold. Use extreme caution while 
up in there, it is easy to do expensive 
damage. FWIW, while in there, it would be wise to replace all the bulbs for the 
instruments, and if your potentiometer is 
suspect you may want to address that too. 

Mathieu

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Re: [MBZ] Brick kills egg

2008-12-07 Thread Mathieu J. Cama
Catching the subject, my initial thought was a Volvo must've creamed a Yaris. 
 :)

Will check the video @ work tomorrow, hope no one cashed in their chips on it.  
 :P

-m




  ---Original Message---
  From: andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brick kills egg
  Sent: 08 Dec '08 01:42
  
  So... Was bedeutet das?  Who died?  Can I watch auf English?
  
  On Sun, Dec 7, 2008 at 1:08 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=02eghIfyHP0feature=related
  
  
  
   **
   Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and
   favorite sites in one place.  Try it now. (
   http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp;
   icid=aolcom40vanityncid=emlcntaolcom0010)
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Re: [MBZ] M119 broken timing chain

2008-12-04 Thread Mathieu J . Cama


On Dec 3, 2008, at 10:01 PM, Hendrik  Fay wrote:

Ahh yes but is the timing chain broken? If the motor turns over this 
would indicate that the chain is still intact, what usually happens is 
that piece of the upper guide rail breaks loose and goes under the 
chain and as it comes around the top it cracks the rocker cover.
You won't know until the rocker cover is removed but sounds like 
complete disassembly of the front of the engine and renewal of the 
guides, chain and tensioner. With a bit of luck the valves will be 
straight.
I would not be cranking the motor over in case the chain jumps another 
tooth but rather turn the motor by hand and see if the valves move.
From memory the recommended interval for guides, chain and tensioner 
is 100K miles. Guess this was not done, which may well mean this 
vehicle was not maintained that well.


Hendrik



Seconded. If no valves are bent, you may be able to fix this one on the 
relative cheap side of things. Special tools are needed on this motor 
for setting up the cam timing. If there is damage to the valve train it 
will be labor intensive and expensive to set right. Also, you are well 
aware of the myriad of w140 specific problems. The m119 is a nice motor 
when right. However, a neglected w140 and MB V8 of any class can be a 
genuine pocket drainer. If it is cheap enough, it may be worth looking 
into, but the cracked valve cover by itself indicates the likelihood is 
great that there are dragons in that motor. Sounds like a parts car to 
me. Caveat emptor!


Mathieu



Tom Savage wrote:

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
Well as a matter of fact said car is up your way, which does not 
mean you can steal it out from under me.  Im fixing to break my 
buying freeze I think.  The guy bought it off a bank, who repoed it 
when the owner quit paying.  I guess they blew it up.  It only has 
144k on it. Guy said if you pull the air cleaner the cam case is 
cracked.  Im figuring this to mean the valve covers are cracked from 
a broken timing chain.  He said it turns over fine but he has not 
tried to start it.


Interesting.  The air cleaner doesn't really obscure the timing 
chest, where a broken chain would hit.  I'll try to make it out there 
and have a peek.  That has got to be a new world record for cheapest 
140.


Tom




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Re: [MBZ] OT: PCLinuxOS2007

2008-11-21 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

On Nov 20, 2008, at 12:44 PM, Gary Hurst wrote:

mine is a swell old us robotics 33.6 that cama gave me a decade or so 
ago,
probably when i complained about what crap winmodems are.  i switched 
over

to that us robotics and never a connection problem again.



courier v.everything. now that was a modem!

-m


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Re: [MBZ] Turntable parts - was Cameras

2008-11-14 Thread Mathieu J. Cama



  ---Original Message---
  From: Fmiser [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Turntable parts - was Cameras
  Sent: 15 Nov '08 02:53
  
   Jim wrote:
  
Last one I bought was an Audio Technica.  Still available?
  
   Silly me, I had AT on the brain.  My last cart was a Grado.
  
  My last three or four have been Grado.
  
  http://www.gradolabs.com/frameset_main.htm
  
  --   Philip
  
  ___


Ditto here. I have been using Grados for 10 years. Currently have a gold on the 
td125. It was a nice upgrade from the 
base.

I'm happy to be in the company of fellow vinylphiles.

Mathieu

Analogue over digital, please



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Re: [MBZ] Who got the 5spd 280 for $500?

2008-11-13 Thread Mathieu J . Cama


On Nov 12, 2008, at 3:32 PM, Rolf wrote:


That was listed on CL in Atlanta?

My hopes and dreams were dashed when I didn't have a response this AM.


-Rolf



Don't know anything about a 280, but I did pick up a 250 with stick 
this week that was on CL for $500.  I just had to have those Euro Hella 
headlamps for my w115.   ;)


Mathieu
www.oldworldauto.com




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Re: [MBZ] Who got the 5spd 280 for $500?

2008-11-13 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

Yes, it was ME. Early bird gets the worm.  :)

It has the m130 in it. Bad knock, though, but I have not messed with it 
much, clutch is crap, gearbox an unknown. All late 250 had the 2.8L. 
This one also has the correct European spec high compression head that 
looks like new. Body is rough, but I've seen worse off cars saved. 
Green interior is OK; moldy and needs new pads. Skins are OK. I'll 
probably pull the interior and some trim, headlamps are already on my 
w115, and send the rest off for scrap. If I get a wild hair, I'll pass 
over it a couple of times with the 'Mog first. No time or space to 
store another, too many here as it is.


Mathieu



On Nov 13, 2008, at 12:20 PM, Rolf wrote:


It was [EMAIL PROTECTED]@#!@

He said he had a 280 engine to go with it, it wasn't clear if the trans
was with the 280 or in the car now. Just as well if it was a 250 trans.
The hunt continues. How was the car, looked like it was in half decent
condition for the price he was asking.

-Rolf

Mathieu J. Cama wrote:


On Nov 12, 2008, at 3:32 PM, Rolf wrote:


That was listed on CL in Atlanta?

My hopes and dreams were dashed when I didn't have a response this 
AM.



-Rolf



Don't know anything about a 280, but I did pick up a 250 with stick
this week that was on CL for $500.  I just had to have those Euro
Hella headlamps for my w115.   ;)

Mathieu
www.oldworldauto.com




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Re: [MBZ] Who got the 5spd 280 for $500?

2008-11-13 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
Starter is on the passenger side. Transmission comes with the car. I'd 
rather see it leave here as a whole as I am not competing with Okie 
Acres. Come on up and check it out. See if it is worth your while. I'm 
here from 9:00-18:00.


Mathieu


On Nov 13, 2008, at 1:08 PM, Rolf wrote:

Starter is on the pass side? Wanna sell trans if so? I'll pull it 
myself

if you want.

-Rolf

Mathieu J. Cama wrote:

Yes, it was ME. Early bird gets the worm.  :)

It has the m130 in it. Bad knock, though, but I have not messed with
it much, clutch is crap, gearbox an unknown. All late 250 had the
2.8L. This one also has the correct European spec high compression
head that looks like new. Body is rough, but I've seen worse off cars
saved. Green interior is OK; moldy and needs new pads. Skins are OK.
I'll probably pull the interior and some trim, headlamps are already
on my w115, and send the rest off for scrap. If I get a wild hair,
I'll pass over it a couple of times with the 'Mog first. No time or
space to store another, too many here as it is.

Mathieu



On Nov 13, 2008, at 12:20 PM, Rolf wrote:


It was [EMAIL PROTECTED]@#!@

He said he had a 280 engine to go with it, it wasn't clear if the 
trans
was with the 280 or in the car now. Just as well if it was a 250 
trans.
The hunt continues. How was the car, looked like it was in half 
decent

condition for the price he was asking.

-Rolf

Mathieu J. Cama wrote:


On Nov 12, 2008, at 3:32 PM, Rolf wrote:


That was listed on CL in Atlanta?

My hopes and dreams were dashed when I didn't have a response this 
AM.



-Rolf



Don't know anything about a 280, but I did pick up a 250 with stick
this week that was on CL for $500.  I just had to have those Euro
Hella headlamps for my w115.   ;)

Mathieu
www.oldworldauto.com




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Re: [MBZ] W115 ds same as W123?

2008-11-11 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

No. You need specific w123 bits. BTDT.  :)

Mathieu
www.oldworldauto.com

On Nov 11, 2008, at 10:18 AM, Rolf wrote:


More particularly, is the front half of the driveshaft the same length?

-Rolf




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Re: [MBZ] W115 ds same as W123?

2008-11-11 Thread Mathieu J . Cama


On Nov 11, 2008, at 11:09 AM, Rolf wrote:


BTDT? Oh, ah been there done that. Is the 5spd+617 DS the same as the
auto+617 DS?


actually, it is not. different p/ns in the EPC. that auto box is longer  
than the 5 speed. iirc, last time i looked into the bits, the correct 5  
speed front half shaft is NLA.




It's a shame that the 4spd+617 is 2cm longer than the auto+616 DS. Just
a wee bit short.


a +/- inch short will get you everytime.



Have you seen the carnage that is going on in Falmouth?

http://jalopnik.com/5082899/over-1000-vintage-mercedes+benzes-await- 
the-cruel-jaws-of-the-crusher-in-kentucky




very sad, wish I had the space and time. this first hit the wires over  
a year ago.



I am hoping they have 5spds. I have one but it is need of many parts,
hoping I can mix and match. Also hoping the bmw getrag 5spd internals
are about the same...


heard the BMW bits do share a few with the Benz, but have not verified.



-Rolf



Mathieu J. Cama wrote:

No. You need specific w123 bits. BTDT.  :)

Mathieu
www.oldworldauto.com

On Nov 11, 2008, at 10:18 AM, Rolf wrote:

More particularly, is the front half of the driveshaft the same  
length?


-Rolf




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Re: [MBZ] Is this out of line?

2008-11-05 Thread Mathieu J . Cama


On Nov 4, 2008, at 9:53 PM, Allan Streib wrote:


OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


My local dealer doubles the MB list price on parts ---


Very typical for any shop.

Allan
--
1983 300D



It is true, that *most* shops will charge dealer list pricing for an 
OEM or aftermarket part. This means you are paying full retail dealer 
list price, the price you should be paying for a genuine part from MB, 
for an OEM or even lesser quality part. Is this ethical? In my eyes, 
no. If you are paying list or list+, you should at least be getting the 
genuine article with a Star on it.


Dealers can charge just about whatever they want for their parts. One 
of the dealers local to me is famous for marking up parts 30% and more 
over list. At least, those folks are getting a genuine Mercedes part.


In my shop, I do things a bit different than the norm. I have an 
arrangement with the MB Classic Center; they are my main parts 
supplier. They sell to me at a rate that enables me to charge the 
customer straight MB list pricing for genuine parts. I give the 
customer the choice of genuine or OEM parts. If they choose genuine, 
they pay straight MB list price. With OEM parts, my purchase price is 
almost always significantly less than MB genuine. In those cases, the 
customer pays less than MB list price. Charging full MB list price for 
an OEM part is greedy in my opinion and fosters the stigma that is 
often associated with independent repair shops. Fair is fair, one 
should always get what they pay for.


Mathieu
www.oldworldauto.com




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Re: [MBZ] Is this out of line?

2008-11-05 Thread Mathieu J . Cama


On Nov 5, 2008, at 10:27 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

M/B and OEM parts are very often one and the same. A Bilstein Model 
XYZ shock is the same from a FLAPs or the dealers, No?


Pete




This is quite the can of worms to open.  If you want to know the truth 
for yourself, perform your own controlled experiments. In my experience 
the answer is no. To each his own. Out of respect to the sponsors of 
this list, I will say no more on this matter.


Mathieu
www.oldworldauto.com



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Re: [MBZ] Is this out of line?

2008-11-04 Thread Mathieu J . Cama


On Nov 3, 2008, at 7:14 PM, Michael Esh wrote:

I went to a local independent and he quoted $850.00 to replace all 
three tie rod assemblies and replace the bushings on the idler arm.   
He charges $98.50 per labor hour.
I can get the parts from Rusty for about $150.00.  Even if he doubles 
his money on parts he is charging me 5.5 hours.  Is this out of line?



Mercedes 300TD
Mike




Mike,

Sounds way too high even *if* he was using genuine MB parts (+/- $300 
at list price) instead of the average OEM or aftermarket. Assuming you 
have a 123 wagon, labor should be +/- 3 hours including wheel 
alignment.  Caveat emptor!


Regards,

Mathieu
www.oldworldauto.com


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Re: [MBZ] Is this out of line?

2008-11-04 Thread Mathieu J . Cama


On Nov 4, 2008, at 9:45 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Matt, glad to see you are still alive and kicking.
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Kaleb,

Still alive, very busy in the shop with little time for email as of 
late.


It been a busy year with some major projects. Were just finishing the 
resurrection a '59 220s Ponton that had not run since 1986. Other 
highlights included a major mechanical refreshening of a '72 280sel 
4.5, including a complete suspension overhaul, similar on a '73 280 
that I delivered to the body shop for new floor pans and other chassis 
restoration this past weekend, and a number of w123s that came in from 
far and wide needing major mechanicals and one including a full klima 
system overhaul. Waiting in the wings at the moment are a couple of 
190e 2.3-16s needing motor rebuilds (one being my personal car due to a 
failed timing chain tensioner), an '84 AMG 500sel for motor rebuild and 
some further performance modification, a 450sl Cali spec 4.5 to Euro 
5.0 conversion, major refreshening of a 441k mile w116 300sd,  that 
along with the normal routine maintenance we see on a regular basis. 
Not to mention, the local British car folks have been taking an 
interest in our work as of late. This week a restoration fresh '56 
Austin Healey 100-4 will be delivered back to its owner after making it 
run as it should. With just two of us in the shop, it keeps us quite 
busy.



I believe a long past due congratulations are in order to you and 
Regina on the birth of your son.



Alive and kicking,

Mathieu
www.oldworldauto.com


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Re: [MBZ] Is this out of line?

2008-11-04 Thread Mathieu J . Cama


On Nov 4, 2008, at 10:39 AM, Tom Hargrave wrote:


I wonder if the 1959 220S is the one I sold to someone in Atlanta a few
months back?

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924




Tom,

This fellow claims to have owned the car for a couple of years and that 
it came from Virginia where it was owned by an MB dealership proprietor 
for a number of decades. Black on red leather. Not to mention the car 
has been here since late August.


Mathieu
www.oldworldauto.com



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Re: [MBZ] Is this out of line?

2008-11-04 Thread Mathieu J . Cama


On Nov 4, 2008, at 11:08 AM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:





Wow, I haven't looked at www.oldworldauto.com in quite a while.  Check
out some of the cars in the For Sale section. I would trade my
firstborn for that black 5-speed /8 even with the rusty rockers!

Alex



Alex,

I hate to part with that car. If only I could fine a truly nice w111 or 
w108 chassis to transplant the drivetrain into. Money being of no 
concern, that car really should be restored. Factory issue 5 speed 
w108s are very rare. Rumor has it about 1400 5 speed cars of that era 
were built (113, 108, 111, 112, 109) with 850 or so being 113s. 113s 
aside, I have heard of or seen one 300se sedan, one 300se cabrio, two 
280se coupes, one 280se cabrio, and one 280se sedan with factory issue 
5 speeds. My big regret is not jumping on the 300se sedan w/ 5 speed 
when I had a chance six or seven years ago. M189s make glorious music. 
Had the joy of waking up a late w112 coupe earlier this summer. Those 
motors have such a rich sound to them. Their parts are also priced 
accordingly!


So.. tell me more about your firstborn. Is he or she an apt parts 
washer and floor sweeper?   ;)



Mathieu
www.oldworldauto.com


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Re: [MBZ] Is this out of line?

2008-11-04 Thread Mathieu J . Cama


On Nov 4, 2008, at 11:56 AM, Bill R wrote:

Your web site pic of your '61 220Sb brings back lots of memories of my 
'62
220Sb.  Part of that is the years I enjoyed driving it and part is 
that it
died protecting me.  When I went to the garage that was storing it a 
few
months later I didn't even recognize it as my car.  Head on with a 
drunk in

a speeding Camero will do that.
BillR



Glad you are still hear to talk about it. Safety is the number one 
reason many of us drive MBs. There are many folks out there that owe 
their lives to the MB that gave its own up for them. My better half is 
one of those folks, too. Her 240D 3.0 was totaled by a full sized work 
van.


That old w111 was a fun car. 4 on the column, no power steering, vent 
windows, 4 wheel drum (until I transplanted front disk from a '62) and 
a wonderful sunroof. Rust eventually claimed that one. As a 
rambunctious and insolent teenager, I used to drive that one like a 
rally car on the seasonal back roads of western NY while in university. 
Scared myself silly very late one night. The snow was deep and 
everything had iced over. If you stopped, you sank in and if you were 
too fast you'd be one with the trees. New meaning to the term slipping 
and sliding. No one around for miles so getting stuck was not an 
option and it was in the single digits out. Cell phones? Bah, what were 
those! If I balled that one up, they wouldn't find me until the next 
spring. Those were some of the best and worst of times in my life.


Mathieu
www.oldworldauto.com



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Re: [MBZ] Is this out of line?

2008-11-04 Thread Mathieu J . Cama


On Nov 4, 2008, at 12:23 PM, Bill R wrote:

I would trade the AC system and the sunroof in my 62 for the ones in 
my 81
SD any time.  Manual slide SR, and two levers on each side to adjust 
the
heat and where you wanted it to go.  My first MB, and I did love that 
car.

BillR



Amen to that! Manual klima is so simple and elegant. Simple cables and 
levers that never break down if maintained. A number of my cars are 
grey market with manual klima. It just keeps things so simpler.


As they say, you never forget your first.  ;)

Mathieu
www.oldworldauto.com


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Re: [MBZ] W123 Rariety

2008-10-24 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
They do exist. I had one, albeit an '84. Euro, 5 speed, SLS in the  
rear. Neat car with some unusual options including factory tow package,  
ABS.


Sold it a couple of years back, this fellow just HAD to have it. 30 MPG  
and cruise 90 mph all day long. I really liked that car.


Mathieu




On Oct 24, 2008, at 11:03 AM, Rolf wrote:


There is that chance, but with SLS? I am betting its the real deal.

-Rolf

andrew strasfogel wrote:

4 FW speeds and one Reverse = 5.

On Fri, Oct 24, 2008 at 10:49 AM, Rolf [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



There is a guy on benzworld claiming to be in the process of buying a
1983 300D 5spd and SLS. What a dream.


http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w123-e-ce-d-cd-td/1404573-83-non- 
turbo-300d-motor-swap.html#post3123392


Someone just trade him a 190d 2.5 turbo already before he does bad
things to that car.

-Rolf

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Re: [MBZ] W123 Taxi Dash

2008-10-21 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
There was a recycler in Fairburn or Union City, iirc, that had the dash 
of which you speak. This was about 10 years ago though. The car was 
well engulfed in the brush then and it looked like a low volume yard 
off a dirt road. Needle in the haystack, yes, but that is a rare dash 
and you may get lucky. I bet that car is still in the same spot. I do 
remember, that yard was on the same main road as BMVW Inc., a decently 
known BMW and VW recycler in those parts.


Mathieu



On Oct 21, 2008, at 4:16 PM, Rolf wrote:


The W123 Taxi dash. It has a nice big opening in the middle that would
be perfect for some electrical doodads.

-Rolf

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

123 taxi dash, wtf is that?

Rolf wrote:

So, how about them Braves? Thrashers? Falcons?


Can anyone find me a 123 taxi dash?!

-Rolf




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Re: [MBZ] Strange intermittent idling problem

2008-10-08 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

Peter,

Intermittent missing can be a sign of weak compression on a particular 
cylinder. Cover your bases and do a compression test or, better yet, a 
leak down test if you have the equipment. Prior to checking 
compression, make sure valve lash has been set properly for all valves. 
While checking valve lash, also carefully inspect each cam lobe for 
wear/scoring. A worn cam lobe can also cause this symptom.


FYI, per the factory 1980 TDM, the specs are as follows:

Wear limit for compression is 15 bar (220.50 psi), below that the motor 
will likely not run. (Installation tolerance is 22-24 bar (323-352 
psi))

Maximum loss for leakdown test is: 25%.
Maximum compression differential between cylinders at operating 
temperature is 3 bar (~45 psi).


If compression/ leak down checks out OK, make sure the cam timing is on 
the mark. Is there any sort of smoke or other symptom(s) that would be 
indicative of the IP being off-time?


If these check out fine, I would delve into the fuel side of the motor. 
Diesels are simple, with correct timing, good compression, and fuel, it 
has to ignite. Not many variables, here.


If this car has been running WVO, the injection pump may have suffered 
damage and in turn cause this symptom. I have seen that before. 
Insufficiently heated or poorly filtered WVO will trash an IP in short 
order.


Mathieu
www.oldworldauto.com






On Oct 7, 2008, at 4:29 PM, Peter Merle wrote:

A friend of mine brought his W123 300D ( Non turbo ) to  me to try and 
sort
out his intermittent idle problem. - Usually the engine purrs nicely 
but
then every now and then the idle speed drops and engine runs roughly. 
When
this occurs I isolated the problem to #1 cyl - ( by disconnecting each 
fuel
line in turn #1 did not have a affect ) . When engine runs #1 is fine 
as are
all other cylinders. I initially checked spray pattern on the tester - 
Ok .

I replaced the injector with a known good one and the problem was still
there. I then replaced dellivery valve an dth eproblem is still 
present. I

am now a bit stumped - coul dit be a stuck injection pump element? what
about an engine valve not closing?  Any ideas are welcome!

Peter



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Re: [MBZ] Strange intermittent idling problem

2008-10-08 Thread Mathieu J . Cama


On Oct 8, 2008, at 12:23 PM, Peter Merle wrote:

This engine has been driven has been using WVO for  arround 12000 km . 
It is
using a 1micro filter. He has another W123 300D also on WVo and its 
been

going for arround 32000 km now without issues.

What gets damaged in the pump? Surely it would be terminal and not
intermittant.
Thanks
Peter



Peter,

I have a number of clients that run/have run WVO. One has amassed in 
excess of 80k miles on WVO and is only now beginning to show signs of 
problems, while others traveled only a few thousand miles and ended up 
with damaged IPs. The viability of running WVO is only as good as the 
conversion. Most conversions do not heat the WVO to a high enough 
temperature (min. 160 F) and this is the number one cause for IP 
failure based on my experience. The viscosity of properly heated WVO is 
close to that of cold diesel. As temperature of the WVO decreases its 
viscosity rises at a near exponential rate. Our IPs were designed to 
operate with fuel having a viscosity lower than that of cold diesel, 
i.e. warm diesel. It was never expected that these IPs would be 
continually running cold diesel; it would only see such until the motor 
reached running temperature and was able to warm the fuel. If in doubt, 
feel your spin-on fuel filter after a 20 minute drive,, it will be 
downright warm, even without an auxiliary fuel heater. Given this, my 
hypothesis is IP failure is a question of when and not if when running 
WVO.


I owned a Euro 300td, non-turbo OM617. It saw WVO under the previous 
owner's tenure (+/- 10k miles) and the oil was not sufficiently heated. 
That motor would often, not always, suffer hard starting when hot and 
an intermittent miss, only at idle, hot and/or cold. The miss was 
without rhyme or reason with the exception it was more prevalent at 
higher ambient temperatures. However, once running, it exhibited 
excellent power, textbook fuel economy, and did not miss off idle. All 
of this running diesel. I replaced the IP with a known good unit and 
all the problems went away. Of course, I did my homework to verify the 
rest of the motor and fuel system was sound before proceeding with the 
IP.


However, the majority of the MB diesels I have come across with an 
intermittent miss at idle either have defective fuel injector(s) or a 
cylinder with out of spec compression on one or more cylinders (be it 
due to rings, valves, etc). It would be foolish to conclude a faulty IP 
based on your symptoms without doing further diagnostic on the motor.


In conclusion, the IP issue can be intermittent based on my experience. 
MB IPs seldom fail catastrophically and without warning. Almost always, 
they show signs long before complete failure. As to what fails in the 
IP, there are a myriad of possibilities. Truth is, it really does not 
matter, as IPs are meant to be serviced only by those with the 
equipment and experience necessary to repair them. IPs are not meant to 
be repaired by the general mechanic or the casual DIYer (outside of 
delivery valves and seals, the feed pump, and oil servicing for the M 
pumps with self contained oil systems). Proper diagnosis and repair of 
the IP requires a calibration bench among many other things. Some 
things are best left to the professionals. There are only two outfits 
in the US I would trust my IPs to.



Mathieu
www.oldworldauto.com


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Re: [MBZ] Strange intermittent idling problem

2008-10-08 Thread Mathieu J . Cama


On Oct 8, 2008, at 1:49 PM, Luther wrote:

Mathieu, you state 160F as the minimum temperature for heating the WVO 
to reach similar viscosity as diesel.  I have heated many gallons of 
WVO to 220F or so (boiling off water) and it is still not as viscous 
as diesel.  My guess, is that even around 300F or higher, the 
viscosity is still not similar and still could cause IP damage, not 
combust completely, leak past rings into engine oil, or clog up 
injectors and prechambers.   All of the research I have read shows 
minor or major engine failure anywhere from 10,000mi to 50,000mi.  Why 
run WVO and risk $500-$10,000 engine repairs or rebuilds when you can 
make biodiesel for less than $1/gallon?  Not worth the risk in my 
book.


Luther


Luther,

My number of 160 F is derived from the general consensus of what was 
deemed acceptable by the WVO community at large (4 or so years ago when 
I began investigating the option) as well as a viscosity vs. 
temperature chart of both fluids. While that chart is highly suspect 
due to the variety of oils and fats found in WVO, it is inherently not 
reliable. I do not doubt in the least your findings.


For the record, I do have three client cars in my service with in 
excess of 50k miles on WVO, all OM61x variants. While they have their 
issues, they still running fairly well, all things considered.


I am quite aware of the damage WVO does to these motors. However, this 
is not going to persuade folks to run bio or pump diesel instead. Fact 
is some folks are going to run WVO regardless, it is their choice. I am 
only the guy who fixes their car when it breaks.


However, I will state that when folks contact me regarding a WVO 
conversion, I do recommend against it and suggest they look into 
bio-diesel. These motors seem to take to it quite well and there is no 
need for intrusive surgery and a plumbing supply store under the hood.


On that note, I am all in favor of bio-diesel if manufactured properly. 
Poor lab practices in the production of bio can cause its own myriad of 
issues as well. A proper titration is critical. Folks who push their 
reaction with an excess of methanol are only serving to destroy any 
rubber in their fuel system, waste methanol, and in the end are only 
kidding themselves.


As I tell folks, there is no free lunch. Everything has its pros and 
cons. The only question is when will the piper have to be paid.


Mathieu
www.oldworldauto.com


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Re: [MBZ] California Coupes

2008-03-19 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
Chuck,

At the MBCA judging school I attended taught by Pete Lesler, the w113 
guru of MBCA, we resolved that for a California coupe no points would 
be subtracted for lack of a soft top. In essence, the car is judged as 
if the soft top were present and 100%. As those cars did not come with 
a soft top, it would be wrong to subtract points for an option that a 
car did not receive from the factory. Also, the California coupe w113s 
are designated with a marker on the VIN tag that separates them from 
their soft top equipped brethren. Sadly, many of those cars had soft 
tops retrofitted at a later date. Now, in those cases, I feel points 
should be subtracted as authenticity has been compromised. But that is 
a whole different ball of wax that I will avoid at this time.

For those who are curious, here is a photo of a California w113. 
Granted it is not the best photo, but the lack of soft top and lid is 
clearly present.

http://oldworldauto.com/w113Cali.jpg

Mathieu




On Mar 18, 2008, at 6:20 PM, Chuck Landenberger wrote:

 Andrew,

 A ways back at a GWS Concours  Picnic, we had someone show a factory
 delivered W113 California Coupe, which caused some consternation
 about how to judge the car since there were no top to which points
 could be assigned.  Owner had brought the window sticker identifying
 it with No soft top or words to that effect.  Frankly, I don't
 remember how it was resolved.

 Marketing maybe, but was a nice car.  For a climate w/minimal rain!

 Chuck


 On Mar 18, 2008, at 12:28 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:

 It's probably a marketing slogan to trade on the California
 reputation for
 coolness, rust-freeness, and joie de vivre..

 On Tue, Mar 18, 2008 at 2:07 PM, Mathieu J. Cama
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:

 Glenn,

 Not quite true. On the SLs, specifically the 113, a California coupe
 will NOT have a soft top. I have never come across a r107 without a
 soft top from the factory. WRT to w107s, the SLC, I have never
 heard of
 these officially termed as California coupes and believe such
 reference
 to be incorrect.

 Mathieu

 '70 280sl California coupe
 '78 280slc


 On Mar 18, 2008, at 1:33 PM, Glenn Brown wrote:

 Never heard of this.  The only variations I'm aware of are the
 coupe/roadster (SL), which has the removable hardtop and a storable
 soft top
 with frame, and the SLC where the wheelbase was extended ~14 and
 provided a
 back seat for those agile enough to get in/out of there.

 G. M. Brown
 Brevard, NC


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[MBZ] W107? R107? C107? W113?

2008-03-19 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
WRT the W and R designations for the SLs, SLCs and the like, please 
note that the commonly accepted convention is partially incorrect. 
Also, W113 is debatable.

This matter has come to light on another forum and the truth will out 
shortly.

I am going back to my library of MB materials (fiche, TDMs, etc) to 
figure this one out.

Mathieu. 


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Re: [MBZ] California Coupes

2008-03-18 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
Glenn,

Not quite true. On the SLs, specifically the 113, a California coupe 
will NOT have a soft top. I have never come across a r107 without a 
soft top from the factory. WRT to w107s, the SLC, I have never heard of 
these officially termed as California coupes and believe such reference 
to be incorrect.

Mathieu

'70 280sl California coupe
'78 280slc


On Mar 18, 2008, at 1:33 PM, Glenn Brown wrote:

 Never heard of this.  The only variations I'm aware of are the
 coupe/roadster (SL), which has the removable hardtop and a storable 
 soft top
 with frame, and the SLC where the wheelbase was extended ~14 and 
 provided a
 back seat for those agile enough to get in/out of there.

 G. M. Brown
 Brevard, NC


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Re: [MBZ] Whats up with this SL?

2008-01-30 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

On Jan 30, 2008, at 11:56 AM, John Robbins wrote:

 http://jackson.craigslist.org/car/550164838.html

 Ticking = new camshaft?  Wouldn't that be hydraulic lifters?


It could be many things. Lifters would be the cheapest, but these 
motors have a propensity to eat camshafts if they are run low on oil. 
Needs to be inspected to know for sure.

Looks like a glorified jalopy, I'd run from this one.

Mathieu


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Re: [MBZ] OT: value of Citroen DS Wagon?

2008-01-16 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
Zach,,

Are you talking about a DS19, DS21, or something else? Full wagon, I 
assume? I believe they were named safari wagons?

Well, they are uncommon especially here in the States. Problem areas 
include, but are not limited to:

Hydraulic system for the suspension which also feed the brakes and 
power steering. Not a bad system by design, but they often suffered at 
the hands of unskilled technicians.

Electrical systems. Think early lucas, but at least ground is the 
correct polarity.

Rust, rust, and more rust! Think w114 coupe daily driven in the 
north-east.

If it has a semi-automatic gearbox, think MB hydrak! Ugh!

Seriously, they are neat cars, drive and ride like nothing else. The 4 
cylinder is a simple motor. Parts are not too hard to come across once 
you have an in with a few suppliers. Beware of inferior aftermarket 
quality parts. There are times when you will need to ship bits in from 
overseas though. Napa carries little more than oil filters for these 
cars!

As for price, they run the gamut. I saw a clean DS21 wagon go on EBay 
about two years ago for under $4k, low mileage, almost no rust, stored 
indoors for a few years.

Last comment on them, I enjoy driving a Citroen more than I enjoy 
working on it.

Mathieu

1972 Citroen SM, 16k original miles, for sale on consignment
www.oldworldauto.com




On Jan 16, 2008, at 2:25 PM, Zach wrote:


 Off topic...  As if that is possible on this list...

 Anyone know what a non-running project Citroen DS station wagon is
 worth?  Looks pretty complete and clean, last tabbed in 1990...

 Anyone know what the problem areas are?

   -Zach


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Re: [MBZ] OT: value of Citroen DS Wagon?

2008-01-16 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

On Jan 16, 2008, at 4:48 PM, Zach wrote:


 No sure whether its a 19 or 21, I didnt get that close.  Will check it
 out again on saturday.  Yes, its a full wagon.

Those are neat cars. Cool looking too. For comps, look at UK sites, but 
keep in mind the prices will be higher than what can be realized in the 
US. For example a comparable SM to what I have will sell for in excess 
of 15k pounds in the UK.


 Is there any way to gauge the condition of the hydraulics without it
 running?  I know it sounds like a dumb question but I am wondering if
 there is some common sign like leaking struts or a particular color
 hydraulic fluid...


Without having the system raised, good luck. The fluid is green and is 
known as LHM assuming the correct stuff has been used. Look around the 
ram part of the struts for leaks. Also check the reservoir. If it still 
has most of its fluid in it, that is a good sign. There should be a 
sight glass on the side.


 From 20 feet it looked solid, but there was alos a lot of snow on the
 thing!  I will crawl under it next time..

Good luck with it, but beware the tin worm. They do evil things to 
those cars.

Mathieu


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Re: [MBZ] OT: value of Citroen DS Wagon?

2008-01-16 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

On Jan 16, 2008, at 3:46 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:

 You had my (high) interest until I got to the automatic gearbox.
 The SM was my dream car when I was ten years old. Actually I
 wouldn't mind having all three of that doctor's cars. I would
 mind having to pay for them, unfortunately. All the cars I've
 bought in my life don't add up to $20k.

 Mitch.


If it were a 5 speed car, it would have already been sold, that I am 
sure. I will say, for a slushbox it is not that bad.

The doctor had a neat collection, three Citroens, a '69.5 DS21, the 72 
SM, and a '89 CX Prestige, plus the 6.3 and the Rolls. He also had 
three Subaru SVXs. Nice driving car, the SVX; I was quite impressed. He 
was a real gentleman, brilliant, compassionate, and always had a way to 
brighten things up when all looked grim.


Mathieu


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Re: [MBZ] 240d 3.0 conversion

2007-09-09 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
You are correct. With automatics I often refer to the flex plate as 
flywheel. Incorrect, I know, just one of my quirks. Sorry for the 
confusion.


On Sep 7, 2007, at 9:45 PM, OK Don wrote:

 I was responding to Mathieu's statement:  First off the flywheel will
 require balancing to match that of the flex plate on the m617.
 I also thought that the flex plate would be insignificant, which is
 why I asked for clarification.

 On 9/7/07, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Flywheel, not flex plate.  The flex plate is pretty much 
 insignificant,
 but a Benz flywheel is not.

 Peter



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Re: [MBZ] 240d 3.0 conversion

2007-09-07 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
Craig,

Just because you got lucky does not mean that all m617s will not 
require the flywheel to be match balanced. Each motor is different and 
MUST be handled on a case by case basis. A good machinist typically 
charges under $150 to match the balancing, sometimes even far less than 
that. Is the integrity of your main bearings and the other internals 
really worth scrimping by such a small amount? The old saying penny 
wise and pound foolish seems to apply here.

Mathieu

On Sep 7, 2007, at 12:43 AM, Craig McCluskey wrote:

 On Thu, 6 Sep 2007 18:35:05 -0400 Mathieu J. Cama 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:

 Kaleb,

 You will have a few obstacles to overcome. First off the flywheel will
 require balancing to match that of the flex plate on the m617.

 Having done this myself, I can say this is not really necessary.


 Craig

 ---
 Craig McCluskey

 Present: 1982 240D/3.0 (Euro 1984 617.912 engine, 4-speed) 241 kmi
Past: 1964 190Dc
  1972 220D/8
  1972 220/8
  1987 190E/2.3

  /\
  \ /  ASCII RIBBON CAMPAIGN Friends don't send friends
   X   AGAINST HTML MAIL HTML email.
  / \  AND POSTINGS
http://www.fred.net/tds/longrange.html
   http://pruffle.mit.edu/~ccarter/I_do_not_use_microsoft.html

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Re: [MBZ] 240d 3.0 conversion

2007-09-07 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
Curt,

See my pm to you.

Mathieu

On Sep 7, 2007, at 11:29 AM, Curt Raymond wrote:


 Thats cool.
 For some perverse reason I'm interested in a manual shift 3.0l.
 My 240D was only slightly underpowered for where I live, I figure a 
 3.0 would be plenty and for some perverse reason I like rowing the 
 trans myself.
 Seems like autoboxes are always doing something thats not quite the 
 way I'd like it...

 How much do you charge for a conversion like this? Did the customer 
 want you to go over the 617 and trans before you put it in? I sure 
 would. Figure to replace the main seals at least while its out.
 It'd stink to get it in there and develop a leak...

 -Curt

 Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2007 17:03:21 -0400
 From: Mathieu J. Cama [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240d 3.0 conversion
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

 Oops seems the links got chopped. Here are the corrected links:

 http://www.oldworldauto.com/Images/HeitzsoDay1/index.htm
 http://www.oldworldauto.com/Images/HeitzsoDay2/index.htm
 http://www.oldworldauto.com/Images/HeitzsoDay3/index.htm


 On Sep 6, 2007, at 5:01 PM, Mathieu J. Cama wrote:

 For those of you who may be interested, I just finished converting a
 w123 240d to a 240d 3.0. The m617 used was a Euro-spec motor
  originally
 set up for manual transmission (617.912.10.xx) and the chassis
  was
 a manual trans car thus making it a simple conversion. The original
 240d motor threw what seems to be a wrist pin of all things after
  289k
 miles (will know more once I tear it down). The project took three
  days
 from start to finish and came out seemlessly. This is the second of
 these that I have done and I love the end result. Really transforms
  the
 car! Here are photos of the conversion.

 http://www.oldworldauto.com/Images/H...Day1/index.htm
 http://www.oldworldauto.com/Images/H...Day2/index.htm
 http://www.oldworldauto.com/Images/H...Day3/index.htm

 Mathieu
 www.oldworldauto.com


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[MBZ] 240d 3.0 conversion

2007-09-06 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
For those of you who may be interested, I just finished converting a 
w123 240d to a 240d 3.0. The m617 used was a Euro-spec motor originally 
set up for manual transmission (617.912.10.xx) and the chassis was 
a manual trans car thus making it a simple conversion. The original 
240d motor threw what seems to be a wrist pin of all things after 289k 
miles (will know more once I tear it down). The project took three days 
from start to finish and came out seemlessly. This is the second of 
these that I have done and I love the end result. Really transforms the 
car! Here are photos of the conversion.

http://www.oldworldauto.com/Images/H...Day1/index.htm
http://www.oldworldauto.com/Images/H...Day2/index.htm
http://www.oldworldauto.com/Images/H...Day3/index.htm

Mathieu
www.oldworldauto.com
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Re: [MBZ] 240d 3.0 conversion

2007-09-06 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
Oops seems the links got chopped. Here are the corrected links:

http://www.oldworldauto.com/Images/HeitzsoDay1/index.htm
http://www.oldworldauto.com/Images/HeitzsoDay2/index.htm
http://www.oldworldauto.com/Images/HeitzsoDay3/index.htm


On Sep 6, 2007, at 5:01 PM, Mathieu J. Cama wrote:

 For those of you who may be interested, I just finished converting a
 w123 240d to a 240d 3.0. The m617 used was a Euro-spec motor originally
 set up for manual transmission (617.912.10.xx) and the chassis was
 a manual trans car thus making it a simple conversion. The original
 240d motor threw what seems to be a wrist pin of all things after 289k
 miles (will know more once I tear it down). The project took three days
 from start to finish and came out seemlessly. This is the second of
 these that I have done and I love the end result. Really transforms the
 car! Here are photos of the conversion.

 http://www.oldworldauto.com/Images/H...Day1/index.htm
 http://www.oldworldauto.com/Images/H...Day2/index.htm
 http://www.oldworldauto.com/Images/H...Day3/index.htm

 Mathieu
 www.oldworldauto.com


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Re: [MBZ] 240d 3.0 conversion

2007-09-06 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
Kaleb,

You will have a few obstacles to overcome. First off the flywheel will 
require balancing to match that of the flex plate on the m617. The m616 
had neutral balanced flywheels where-as the m617's flywheel was 
balanced with the crank at the factory and is not necessarily neutral 
balanced. See the write-up on mbdiesel.net from when John Ervine and I 
converted his w123 wagon to a manual transmission last year.

The next obstacle will be the driveshaft. You could have the 240d's 
shortened and re-balanced to make this work. Other option is to source 
the proper length driveshaft.

Next off will be the shifter linkages. Obtain the proper ones for your 
gearbox. They are different for the older cast iron and the late 
production aluminum gearboxes.

Lastly you need to obtain the proper transmission support cross-member. 
Digging in the EPC will reveal what will work.

Aside from that it is all plug and play as you will have all other 
needed bits in your 5 cylinder w123 assuming both are of the same 
vintage. Keep in mind pre-79 cars will have older loop glow plugs, york 
compressor, etc all which will complicate things if your m617 is of 
later vintage (pencil glows, R4 compressor).

Mathieu


On Sep 6, 2007, at 5:18 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin, work wrote:

 I have a manual 240D with a I think a dead cylinder.  I have a good 
 euro 5
 cyl engine which is auto.  What would it take to drop the euro engine 
 in
 place the 4 cylinder?

 ---
 Kaleb C. Striplin
 Cox Auto Trader
 730 FSBO Supervisor

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Re: [MBZ] O/T Craig's List

2007-08-15 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
Peter,

Find the answers to what you seek here: 
http://www.craigslist.org/about/factsheet.html

Mathieu

On Aug 15, 2007, at 9:50 AM, Peter T. Arnold wrote:

 I'm a happy user of Craig's List, but I have a question.

 Who/What supports it?  Where's the cash flow.


 --

 Regards,

 Peter T. Arnold

 2007 HHR, 2.4L/Auto, LT2, 12Kmi, No problems!
 1987 300SDL  280KMI  Inherited by Grandson
 1995 F-250 PowerChoke  199Kmi
 1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen
 Wife has a Cruizer, 80 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that is!


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Re: [MBZ] Did they make a 15 bundt wheel

2007-08-03 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
Ed,

These are bundt pan wheels. Like the 14 variants that came with the 
w123, late w116, and early w126. I do not know what you mean by the 
turbine fan variant.

WRT AMG wheels, the early pentas were made by ATS and later on they 
switched to Ronal. Ronal and ATS both did offer an aftermarket 
variant. If the wheel has AMG stamped into the hub, then it was a 
genuine piece. If it just has the Ronal or ATS mark with no AMG, then 
it was an aftermarket. FWIW, other manufacturers sold knock-off AMG 
wheels as well.

For reference, here are photos of a set of genuine AMG pentas made by 
ATS that I sold earlier this year: 
http://oldworldauto.com/Images/AMG_R9/index.htm

Mathieu
www.oldworldauto.com

On Aug 2, 2007, at 11:34 PM, E M wrote:

 Are these the rims that look like a bunt cake pan?  Or like a turbine 
 fan?

 Didn't Ronal make the rims for the early AMG cars, or were they just 
 copying
 the AMG rim?

 Ed
 300E

 On 02/08/07, Mathieu J. Cama [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 If someone is serious about obtaining the 15 bundts, I can get them. 
 I
 have a connection that has them available in limited numbers, new,
 never mounted, genuine MB, no aftermarket junk. The cost is quite
 considerable, however.

 WRT the aftermarket variants, I would suggest only obtaining Ronals as
 they were manufactured to a higher standard. I have heard the ATS and
 Centra variants have issues with hub cracking over time from more than
 one source. Those variants lack a metal collar where the lug bolt
 presses against the rim and due to over-tightening the lugs, something
 more than common, the hubs will begin to crack. If you have a set of
 these, I suggest that you have them x-rayed to check for potential
 failure.

 Mathieu
 www.oldworldauto.com




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Re: [MBZ] Did they make a 15 bundt wheel

2007-08-02 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
If someone is serious about obtaining the 15 bundts, I can get them. I 
have a connection that has them available in limited numbers, new, 
never mounted, genuine MB, no aftermarket junk. The cost is quite 
considerable, however.

WRT the aftermarket variants, I would suggest only obtaining Ronals as 
they were manufactured to a higher standard. I have heard the ATS and 
Centra variants have issues with hub cracking over time from more than 
one source. Those variants lack a metal collar where the lug bolt 
presses against the rim and due to over-tightening the lugs, something 
more than common, the hubs will begin to crack. If you have a set of 
these, I suggest that you have them x-rayed to check for potential 
failure.

Mathieu
www.oldworldauto.com


On Aug 2, 2007, at 9:48 AM, Rusty Cullens wrote:

 They did NOT come as standard equipment on a 6.9. They were a very 
 expensive
 option that very few people paid for, which is why they are so rare. 
 They
 were never sold as a replacement part. You had to order them at the 
 time you
 ordered your 6.9 new. That was the ONLY way to get them. Centra, a now
 defunct wheel manufacturer made a very nice copy (Gary has some on his 
 6.3)
 that sold for about 10 years back in the late 70's and early 80's. 
 those are
 usually what you will see on EBay.


 Rusty Cullens
 BuyMBparts, Inc.
 Tel 1-800-741-5252
 Fax   770-454-9745

 - Original Message -
 From: John Freer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 1:22 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Did they make a 15 bundt wheel


 The W116 6.9 had them as standard equipment and maybe the earlier 6.3 
 as
 an
 option as well in the 109. And they are rare...saw an excellent set go
 about
 800 bucks on Ebay a few years ago.

 On 8/1/07, Gary Hurst [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 but they never turn out to be genuine despite their being claimed as
 such.

 i've seen a genuine set although i'm assured they exist (although i
 don't even feel so sure about that)

 On 8/1/07, John Robbins [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 John Robbins wrote:
 If they really are cheap, buy them and sell them on ebay.  You will
 make
 some money :) From what I've heard they are very rare.

 Per Gary's comment I might add that if they are genuine MB wheels...

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Re: [MBZ] Quick Reminder Needed - Allen Key Size for Starter

2007-06-11 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
10mm. Make sure to bring extensions and a hefty universal with you as 
well. 1/2 drive is better, but 3/8 will work most of the time. Do not 
forget the screwdriver and the 13 or 17mm for the solenoid connections.


Mathieu
www.oldworldauto.com

On Jun 11, 2007, at 3:04 PM, Zoltan Finks wrote:


Gang,

As I set out tonight or tomorrow on my road trip and move myself and my
pooch to our new house, could someone remind me the size of the allen 
key

required to replace the starter (83 240D).

The starter gave me intermittent problems a while back, but has been 
working
fine for some time now. I noticed that the solenoid part of it was 
actually

loose Hmmm.

I will be carrying my spare starter in the trunk as I have for a while 
now.

But I need to make sure I  have the right tools.

Thanks
Brian
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Re: [MBZ] Anybody ever swap a 5-speed into 123 wagon?

2007-05-24 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

Karl,

Yes the swap is possible, but the transition is rather painful if you 
plan on doing it properly. Late last Fall I did such a conversion, 
albeit a 4 speed manual, into a 1980 300td. It took over 50 hours in 
labor with a fully outfitted shop. Costs were high on parts as the 
owner wanted it to be a truly seamless conversion with all new 
components installed as much as possible. The flywheel needs to be 
balanced to match the old one. On the 617 the flywheels are not neutral 
balanced, but balanced at the factory with the crank and harmonic 
balancer. A good machinist with a proper balancer will have no problem 
doing this for you. Note: the m617 has a different flywheel than the 
m616. While the 616 flywheel is compatible, the 617 yields a better 
result. I would suggest all new clutch components including the 
hydraulics, have the driveshaft rebuilt by a reputable shop, plus you 
will need to have the car re-aligned afterwards as the weight 
distribution does change and this will affect the wheel alignment. 
Also, while in the dash to replace the pedal block, I would suggest 
replacing all of the vacuum actuators for the klima. As you will be 
pulling the dash anyways, you might as well make the most of it. Of 
course, shifter rebuild with new bushings all around too.


Keep in mind, if your car is a turbo, there are a few caveats that need 
to be heeded that have been covered in this and other forums in length. 
Marshall Booth has expounded on the matter a number of times. Having 
not driven a m617t with a manual transmission, I am unable to offer 
opinions on drivability and performance.


WRT torque, there is no worry. The same gearboxes were used with the 
venerable m110 which puts out far more torque than the m617t will in 
stock form. I would recommend having the gearbox examined prior if it 
is an unknown quantity. They are not inexpensive to make correct.


The end result was excellent on the 1980 300td; with gains in many 
areas, better fuel economy, lower running temps, slightly increased oil 
pressure, and of course a nicer driving vehicle if you prefer a clutch, 
that is.


This is not a project for the feint of heart, but worthwhile if you 
fancy a stick shift. On a project like this you will not recoup your 
investment in labor or expenses should you resell, but for a keeper it 
is a fine upgrade.


You may view pictures of the 1980 300td conversion here: 
http://www.mbdiesel.net/300TDmanualswap.html.


Best regards,

Mathieu
Old World Automotive
www.oldworldauto.com




On May 24, 2007, at 10:51 AM, Karl Wittnebel wrote:




I have an 85 123 wagon with the regular slushbox. It has only 160K mi
on it and is still going strong. I have no intention of getting rid of
the thing as it seems to improve with age.

I recently identified a gray market 300d (sedan) of similar vintage
with a bad motor which has the 5-speed, and am thinking about doing the
transmission switch.

Anyone ever do this before? How painful is it?

I know if it ain't broke, don't fix it, but I think I would enjoy the
next 200K miles more with a manual shifter, Compared to what it would
cost to buy a new(er) car, this seems a reasonable investment in my
driving satisfaction.

Informed comments appreciated,
Karl



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Re: [MBZ] Here's a liar on ebay

2007-05-22 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
For the record, all North American 300Ds had turbos starting in 1982.  
In Europe you could still get the non-turbo variant. This EBay car is a  
US spec car and for sure this is not the original motor. Caveat Emptor!


Mathieu
www.oldworldauto.com



On May 21, 2007, at 6:15 PM, Donald Snook wrote:


This lying seller says he has a 84 123 that routinely gets 34-36 mpg.
Makes me wonder whether any of the ad is true.



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-Mercedes-Benz-300D-DIESEL-NO- 
RESERVE

_W0QQitemZ200112133952QQihZ010QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem



He also says it does not have a turbo.   Is that true?  I thought by 84
all the 300D's had turbos.   Check out the pics, the car looks nice,  
but
somebody has definitely used the silver spray paint on the engine -  
look

at the air filter housing.



All this makes me think this guy is trying too hard to hide something.



The sad thing is, the car LOOKS really nice.  But, if you can't trust
the seller, the car is probably questionable.



Donald H. Snook

1990 300SEL 137K

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[MBZ] Tri-Y headers in a 450sl

2007-04-17 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

Fellow listers,

I have a client with a '76 450sl. In an attempt to improve performance 
a bit, we are considering installing the tri-Y headers and downpipes 
from a 500slc and fabricating a custom exhaust (or modified 500slc 
exhaust) for the remainder. Both are m117 motors and as such I believe 
the 500slc headers will bolt right up to the heads. Given they are both 
107 cars, there should be no issue with steering box clearance. What I 
do not know is if there a size difference with the exhaust ports that 
needs to be reconciled? Has anyone BTDT? Anything to be wary of? This 
car does not need to pass emissions so those issues are moot. FWIW, 
this is a former California spec car.


Thank you in advance.

Mathieu
www.oldworldauto.com




Re: [MBZ] The ULTIMATE crack smoker.

2007-04-10 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
This was done. I have a '77 300d (actually it is a '76 build date) that 
was flown in after factory pickup with LTU. Car came with all the 
papers including the bill of lading for the flight plus the European 
delivery papers. Discriminating customers did not want their cars 
exposed to the salt air on a freighter or just did not have the 
patience to wait.


Mathieu


On Apr 10, 2007, at 4:22 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:


Flown to Boston on a 747?  Really??

On 4/10/07, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


http://boston.craigslist.org/nwb/car/308702463.html
Do you think he really ment $1700? I don't.

-Curt


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Re: [MBZ] The ULTIMATE crack smoker.

2007-04-10 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

Luthansa's budget carrier.


On Apr 10, 2007, at 4:39 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:


LTU = ??

On 4/10/07, Mathieu J. Cama [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


This was done. I have a '77 300d (actually it is a '76 build date) 
that

was flown in after factory pickup with LTU. Car came with all the
papers including the bill of lading for the flight plus the European
delivery papers. Discriminating customers did not want their cars
exposed to the salt air on a freighter or just did not have the
patience to wait.

Mathieu


On Apr 10, 2007, at 4:22 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:


Flown to Boston on a 747?  Really??

On 4/10/07, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


http://boston.craigslist.org/nwb/car/308702463.html
Do you think he really ment $1700? I don't.

-Curt


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Mom's 87 300E hard starting puzzler..

2007-04-09 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

Kevin,

Things to check:

Check the fuse on the top of the OVP relay. It is a 10 amp ATC fuse. 
This can cause hard starting when cold and explain the ABS light. It is 
a silver box relay, located near the battery with a fuse (red) on the 
top of it, iirc on a w124. Sometimes, the OVP will still have its clear 
plastic cover on the top.


Temp sensor for the fuel injection.

 Ignition rotor and distributor cap, but this would cause poor running 
at all temps if things were really bad.


Good luck,

Mathieu



On Apr 9, 2007, at 3:43 PM, Kevin J. Slater wrote:


I have a plea for the list. I'm trying to keep my Mom's 87 300E on the
road and I only get word when things are bad. Recently she called to 
tell

me that one day she went to start the car (was probably about 50 F that
day) and it would turn over easily but it wouldn't catch and run. She
stated that the day before all was fine and dandy. She managed to get 
it
started and came down to my house. She was there for several hours and 
we

went out to start it in my driveway.

When you could get it to catch and run it ran very rough unless you 
took
the tach up to about 1800 - 2000 rpms where upon it would smooth out. 
If

you dropped it down into the 1000 rpm range, if you could keep it from
stalling, it bucked and I could intermittently hear something  like a
backfiring sound through the air cleaner (I was standing outside the 
car).
If you kept the engine in that higher rpm range for about 5 minutes 
until

the coolant temp came up to about 60 C, then it would run pretty much
normally at all rpm ranges. Once warmed up there was no loss of power 
or

misfiring that I could detect.

I checked the air filter and it seemed normal enough. Not sure what to
check next. She did mention that her ABS light has come on now and 
doesn't
go off. I could be connected or just a weird coincidence. She added 
fuel

injector cleaner prior to coming down to my house (about 35 miles of
highway). I thought about changing out the fuel filter, but that 
doesn't

make sense in light of the improvement in running once warmed up.

I would appreciate any ideas. The rest of the family is anxious to get 
her

into some other car which she won't be able to afford and no doubt will
turn out to be a death trap tin can.

...Kevin
79 240D
87 300TD



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Re: [MBZ] Got a high mile car?

2007-04-03 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
Have a client with a 1980 300sd with around 420k miles on it. Looking 
at the car, it looks like it may have 150k on it. Quite clean. Car is 
daily driven and does quite well. Black on black too!


Mathieu

On Apr 2, 2007, at 11:42 PM, Loren Faeth wrote:

Seems that the NY Times has a writer wanting to do an article on high 
mile
cars.  If you have a car with over 300k miles, please let me know.  
I'll

pass the info on to the Times reporter, so he can talk to you.

No, I have not changed my opinion,  I don't/won't read the NY Times.  
It is

a propaganda rag.  But, I will help out the guy.


Loren


Loren Faeth


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Re: [MBZ] The Motor Stadt in Stuttgart, Germany]

2007-01-11 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

Rich,

If the attachment goes through, here is the same car shot from another 
angle. That (#18) is a w196. # 722 to the left is a 300slr (Mille 
Miglia car driven by Moss w/ Jenkinson navigating) followed by a w165, 
iirc. The car behind #36 (some sort of record car) is a w125 and that 
is followed by a Targa Florio winner from the 1920s (?). The car 
directly behind #8 is a w196 monoposto GP car, following it is a w154 
(if memory serves correctly), and that is followed by a w25. Photo 
taken this past October while visiting the museum during a quick trip 
to Germany. If time allows, make the time to visit the greenhouse 
where it began for Herr Daimler as well. It was like making a 
pilgrimage. If the attachment does not work you can see the picture 
here: http://www.oldworldauto.com/Images/MBM/DSCN1267.JPG. It is about 
0.8 Mb, in the event you are on modem.


Mathieu

attachment: DSCN1267.JPG
inline: DSCN1267.JPG

On Jan 9, 2007, at 1:51 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:




Good article about all the motor museums and displays in the area. You
can stop in on them when you go pick up your new SLR to drive around  
the

Continent on spring holiday.

What is that Benz racer in the front in the picture?  That thing is
beautiful.

--R

http://travel.nytimes.com/2007/01/07/travel/07journeys.html? 
ref=automobiles


I had the photo here but it bounced



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Re: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123

2006-11-02 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
Mike is 100% correct here. I have the literature to document this from  
AMG back in the day. Also, AMG did have a North American operation  
which closed down in the early 1990s. AMG also would sell body panels  
for folks to have installed themselves. WRT the m110, where this  
discussion began, AMG did modify that motor. Literature I have shows  
they were tuning it to 225 hp (DIN) which would translate to roughly  
250hp (SAE) at the crank. Also, if there is further doubt, currently in  
the shop I have one AMG 560sec, SOHC, 6.0L modified by AMG mid-west in  
Chicago and a venerable 560sel 32V Hammer, likely modified out of  
Chicago (research still pending). Both are North American spec machines  
and not grey market examples.


Mathieu


On Nov 2, 2006, at 1:47 PM, Michael Hall wrote:


I disagree - there were cars assembled by AMG, in addition the cars put
together at other places.  AMG certainly put together some cars; they  
raced
them for sure!  a W109 300SE 6.8 is the car that put them on the Map,  
so to

speak.

One of many articles available about it online;

http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/downs/9323/w109amg.htm

Mike

On 11/2/06, Rusty [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


You could buy spare parts, spoilers, wheels side skirts, etc from AMG  
in

the 80's, but AMG was not affiliated with Mercedes at that time and
didn't assemble these cars. You bought the parts and had it done
yourself.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Michael Hall
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 12:10 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123

I have [or had at some point] a brochure from AMG in pdf format that
disagrees.  It shows offerings of body kits for at least the 123 coupe
and
sedan, but nothing about engine conversions.  I'll try to dig it up  
when

I
get home.  No, its not from AllData.

Mike

On 11/2/06, Rusty [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


It's rare alright. They never made a 280E AMG, it's just a homemade
version.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Michael Hall
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 11:47 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-280E-AMG-Rare-black-imported-5- 
spd_W

0QQitemZ180046051091QQihZ008QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

eBay Item #180046051091

Am I the only one who thinks this an awesome car?

Mike
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[MBZ] Fire Sale

2006-08-11 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
 spared. 
Too many parts installed to list. Driver's interior door panel needs 
repair, split seam in top of back seat, split seam in driver's seat 
back. A few dings here and there, not a concours car, but a super solid 
runner that is more than presentable cosmetically. Clear title. 
Reluctant to sell. Will consider offers over $12.5k I will not sell for 
less, so please don't ask. No joyrides.


If you took the time to read through all of these, thank you. All 
vehicles are being sold as is where is. Please feel free to contact me 
with your inquiries. I have email access Monday through Friday during 
business hours.


Best regards,

Mathieu J. Cama
Old World Automotive
Lawrenceville, GA
www.oldworldauto.com




Re: [MBZ] Fire Sale

2006-08-11 Thread Mathieu J . Cama


On Aug 11, 2006, at 11:58 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote:


Hey Mat, is the 5 speed a ZF transmission or...?


No, it is the getrag box. If it were a ZF, I would not be selling it 
and installing it in the w113.




Also, I'm puzzled - what good is the fanfare horn is they are 
missiing??




Not many w108s came from the factory with that option. It is easier to 
find the replacement horns than it is to find a car that came from the 
factory equiped with such. The 280se is wired for the fanfares, but 
someone removed the high tone horns prior to my purchasing the car. If 
all you care about is finding the horns themselves, then it does you no 
good, but for a fellow who is seeking to restore an very unusual w108, 
it is nice to have them installed from the factory.





Re: [MBZ] Fire Sale

2006-08-11 Thread Mathieu J . Cama
While it is a tough decision, I am looking at getting a very special 
one-off C36. I have been after this car for a number of years and the 
door of opportunity has opened. You could always have the 300Ds shipped 
out to you.  ;)


Mathieu



On Aug 11, 2006, at 4:52 PM, kevin kraly wrote:

May I ask what car is worth selling all of those off?  If I was 
closer, I
would be seriously thinking about the 300D's, especially the '77 and 
'78.

You're on the right coast, and I'm on the left, what a bummer!

Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon, seriously feeling MB diesel withdrawal, only
cured by getting another one






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