[MBZ] [Fwd: Re: [UUC] E36 KMAC Plates]
I know this topic was on the list recently, so I thought I'd forward this msg from the BMW enthusiasts' UUC list. I have no firsthand experience on my W123s! Original Message Subject:Re: [UUC] KMAC Plates Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2005 21:10:32 -0500 From: Chris Turrisi [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] References: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I would stay away from the KMAC camber plates. I had them on my car for 10,000 miles with stock shocks springs and both sides failed. I lifted the car up to change the brakes before a track session and both struts dropped out of the strut hats. The parts that mounted to the car stayed attached with the car and the struts pulled out of the polyurethane. I contacted KMAC and never got a response. I have pictures if anyone wants to see them. Hope this keeps someone from making a mistake, Chris Turrisi #992 JP At 03:10 PM 11/10/2005 -0800, you wrote: Relative to stock, how noisey are the KMAC camber plates? Are they a good solution for HR springs and Koni SA's to bring the camber further in or can you go with stock strut bearings and simply re-align toe to spec? Thanks, Kevin This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com _ This message scanned for viruses by CoreComm
Re: [MBZ] Working on the water pump - help needed
Tim, if you get to the point where you *have* to use a screw extractor (sounds like you're approaching that point), use one like these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006HHNKC/104-9734127-1604705?v=glancen=228013n=284507s=hiv=glance I've broken off several of the Easy-Out type in stubborn screws -- in fact, some mechanics I know use them as an absolute last resort *because* of the likelihood that the tool will break off and leave you in a worse state than before you tried it. I have never failed to remove a broken screw with the obelisk style extractors like those shown in the photo. The one caveat is not to drive them too deep into the pilot hole you've drilled, as they'll press the threads of the screw tighter against the sides of the hole. Russ Craig McCluskey wrote: On Sun, 30 Oct 2005 00:15:18 -0400 TimothyPilgrim [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: PROBLEM: The topmost water pump bolt sheared off when I attempted to loosen it. Oops. There's about 3 mm protruding out of the block with the WP removed. I used a torch to heat the remaining bolts which may or may not have helped, but they came out okay. So what do I do to get that sheared bolt out? Well, I'd start by heating that bolt, too, and, after it's cooled down, use some Kroil and let it sit for awhile. Then use some more Kroil and visegrips. With the visegrips, I'd gingerly rock it back and forth (counterclockwise and clockwise) until it loosens up. Or should I just say screw it, leave it, and put the new pump on? I sure would not. Craig
Re: [MBZ] Fuel price wackiness
I had a visit Tuesday from the fuel oil man -- I took the minimum delivery of 150 gallons in hope that this price spike will ease in a month or so. The bill was $430, @$2.80 per gallon. I can go through 200 gallons per month to keep the house warm in January and February. People on a shoestring are going to be hurting up here this winter. Russ Maki Ixonia, Wis. OK Don wrote: I saw unleaded at $2.17 and Desel at $3.20 coming home from work tonight. I managed to find a station at $3.08, and felt lucky??? On 10/18/05, Robert Tara Ludwick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I just saw $3.50 a gal here in Arkansas this evening. I paid $3.30 this morning. -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC The FSM created the Diesel Benz http://www.venganza.org/ ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net _ This message scanned for viruses by CoreComm
Re: [MBZ] Fuel price wackiness
Curt Raymond wrote: Pish posh, if people spent as much on fuel as they did on Evian (naive spelled backwards) water then it'd be approaching the point where the economy is in trouble. Hey Curt, do the math. Say someone is flipping burgers for $8 an hour. That's 16 grand a year for someone working full-time at Burger King or Wal-Mart. (Of course, these places NEVER hire more than a few full time employees -- it's cheaper to hire two part-timers with no bennies.) So let's say the individual is a single mother with a kid or two at home to feed and clothe. Her ex is a deadbeat, maybe $10K behind in child support. Her life is a mess -- not that that's your fault, or mine. But she's out there. She and many others like her do exist. So said individual's heating bill goes up $500 over the six-month heating season. An Oct.12 Marketwatch story puts the average at $350, but let's say the burger flipper/Wal-mart clerk lives in Milwaukee, where heating costs tend to be above average. (Up here the poor drive clapped-out Buicks, BTW). You don't think that individual is going to feel the pinch?? Or would you just rather not hear about it. People debate about the presence of the Ten Commandments in public buildings. I'd get a kick out of seeing the Sermon on the Mount posted far and wide in this Christian nation. The people would tear it down, mistaking it for the Communist Manifesto. That Jesus. He was such a Goddamn liberal. Russ Maki
Re: [MBZ] Albrecht Stachel selling a finnie
andrew strasfogel wrote: Why does the steering wheel appear to have been tilted? Well, I know nozzing other than the seller's reputation (he runs a Mercedes shop called Brooklyn Motoren Werke), but it appears to me that the front wheels are canted to the left, as in a left turn. Why don't you ask him if you think the steering wheel isn't turned, um, commensurately. Russ On 10/15/05, Russ Maki [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/220Sb-Finny-Finster-Finntail_W0QQitemZ4582692624QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Albrecht's a first-class Mercedes restoration specialist. Description is written in classic Stachel style. Russ Maki Ixonia, Wis.
Re: [MBZ] Back to snow tires
Robert Tara Ludwick wrote: Go with Nokians. If you're going to buy snow tires, get them from folks who live in the stuff 9 months out of the year :-) Seriously, they have one now that's even sexier than the hakka q's, the RSI. I didn't think that could be possible after driving on sheet ice with pouring wet skim freezing rain on steep hills with the hakka q's.and being the only thing on the road still moving aside from a couple of national guard hummers ( even the sand truck with chains on slid off the road ). -Robert Hi Robert, Here's the tire I'm looking at buying for this winter: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/BigPic.jsp?tireMake=MichelintireModel=X-Icesidewall=Blackwall Check out the zigzags in the sipes, just like the Nokian design. Silica rubber, just like the Hakka Qs. It's a Michelin for $64 a tire at The Rack. I just priced the Nokian RSI's at my local tire shop -- $440 for a set, mounted and balanced -- perhaps I'd save 10% if I got them from the Tire Factory. I like the Finn skins (I always like to think I'm putting bread in the mouth of a distant relative) but a 50% price difference is hard to ignore. It would be one thing if the alternative would be a snow tire from Taiwan, but I can live with Bib. Russ Maki
[MBZ] Albrecht Stachel selling a finnie
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/220Sb-Finny-Finster-Finntail_W0QQitemZ4582692624QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Albrecht's a first-class Mercedes restoration specialist. Description is written in classic Stachel style. Russ Maki Ixonia, Wis.
Re: [MBZ] Back to snow tires
I've got a 300td, so I'll put serious ice snow tires on the car this wnter rather than load up the rear end with weight. Speaking of which, I wonder if anyody has tried Michelin's X Ice tire. Tire Rack says it uses a silica rubber compound; I would hope that means more longevity than Bridgestone's Blizzaks. It looks like it's siped similarly to Nokian's Hakk Q. I think I'll query Luke at Tire Rack and see what kind of pitch he delivers. Russ Maki David Brodbeck wrote: [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I use bundles of roofing shingles. The cheap $7.00 bunbles weigh 60-70 lbs.each, are clean, take-up very little room, and if you get stuck, just place a couple under the rear wheels. I've seen a lot of people using shingles, concrete blocks, etc., but I prefer to use something that will break apart in a crash, like sand bags. It's not quite as much of a worry in the Mercedes, but I used to drive a station wagon. ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net _ This message scanned for viruses by CoreComm
Re: [MBZ] Snow tires
Sure, Bill, the standard recommendation for a passenger car is to go with a minus-zero tire for snow, one that's a size narrower and a size higher in aspect ratio, such as 185-75-14 for a W123. I didn't check the size comparison charts, but I think that size would be appropriate.Taller, narrower tires are better. As for tread pattern, the main thing to look for these days is sipes. Most modern snows are designed on what I'd describe as a scrub-brush theory -- their tread blocks flex while in contact with the road, and in doing so shift on a slippery surface until they find something to bite into. The rubber compounds in use are generally on the soft side to remain flexible in the cold. Bridgestone Blizzaks are about the softest, and have a pretty short tread life, but they're excellent on ice. Other tires use a silica rubber compound with (I assume) some abrasive characteristics, like the Michelin. X-Ice. There are also some innovative locking sipes out there (such as on the X-Ice and Nokian) that firm the tire up for more stability on the dry road. One of the common complaints about Blizzaks is that they feel mushy or squirmy in the dry. A new innovation from Nokian is the introduction of plant oil (!) in the rubber compound of their Hakkapelliita RSI. It supposedly sheds moisture -- but I recall one user post somewhere that they were a little slippery right out of the box. That said, I would agree that all-seasons should be all you need for a couple weeks in New Hampshire. The highway crews that far north are undoubtedly quite adept at keeping the roads clear. I remember back in 2000 when we had our massive December snow dump of 54 inches, everybody I worked with was freaked except for a guy from Syracuse. Serial 12-inch snow storms were nothing new for him, and apparently were quickly dealt with in his hometown. One point about all-season tires in the winter -- the ones that are least siped and have the highest wear rating are the least effective in snow. The hard rubber can't flex and the solid tread blocks can't scrub. So a touring all-season is generally better than a performance all season. Of course, if you're tooling around on Hoosiers, all bets are off! Russ BillR wrote: As I will only be in the snow for a couple of weeks for my NH trip this Winter, I'll probably stick to my normal radials. IIRC when I was in the frozen wastelands [Indiana] for several years folks who had to drive in every snow situation [the ambulance drivers I worked with as a ambulance tech] favored an odd looking narrow tire with an 's' pattern running around the tire. Their reasoning was that the wide, hard angled, fierce looking, tread tires held the snow = a slick donut of a wheel that pushed snow into a wall in front of the tire, which then could get no traction. With the narrower 's' groove tire the snow wouldn't stick in the tread = a narrow footprint they could most always dig through snow with and drive with. Don't know as I'd want to drive on the highway with those, but they did seem to work on the rural roads we had to get around on. Ambulance didn't use them, but we always had a snow plow to front for us when we were loaded so not a problem. Thanks to other listers I have been educated a bit as to changes in tires since I was up there. Is any of this still good information? BillR Jacksonville FL 300SD EM 265K /200K engine - which should be ready for pickup tonight! ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net _ This message scanned for viruses by CoreComm
Re: [MBZ] paint damages
Constantine N. Polites wrote: For those who believe in Murphy's law.. here are some photographs of my recent encounter with a discharge of sulfuric dioxide (which became sulfuric acid when it encountered the rain). On Saturday night I was driving past a local refinery when I smelled sulfuric acid and thought nothing of it, after all EPA is asleep on weekends. Sunday I discovered the damages. I did bring it to the attention of the refinery's general counsel, and will attempt to recover my costs. See: www.scaffolding.com/damages Constantine The paint damage was that instant? Wow. I've seen some paint damage from particulate foundry emissions but nothing like that. If the refinery doesn't cough up to your satisfaction, may I suggest you file a small-claims suit and take your case to the local media. Once you have your damage documented in a legal forum, the newshounds will have something to sink their teeth into. But you'll need to point it out to them if you want action. Call 'em up, ask for their environmental reporter/editor, and make your case. Tell them you have a lawsuit on file, and tell them where it is. You might also get an environmental activist agency on your side if you can, first to name-drop to the paper/TV station -- but also, if there are any class-action suits around, the tree-huggers are likely to know about them. I'd go to the metro daily paper first -- from my admittedly limited geographic experience, almost all local news flows from them. If the daily paper doesn't bite immediately, look for an alternative weekly. They eat this stuff up but don't have the clout of the daily press. You might also approach the consumer affairs reporters at local TV stations. Obviously, you want the biggest local station involved if possible. Once you get a committed advocate in any medium, stick by them -- unless a bigger patron comes along! Good luck Russ Maki
Re: [MBZ] Bio prices
ernest breakfield wrote: at that price, it better be a hell of a pail!;-) cheers! e Yeah, I was stunned. Five bucks a gallon. This is a mainstream fuel/oil distributor, complete with pump islands and fleet contracts. The whole biodiesel market is in its infancy here in SE Wisconsin. Pretty sad, consiering what's going on in neighboring states. In Minnesota the government has mandated a small biodiesel content in all the diesel fuel sold in the state. I don't like fuel mandates, but they can, at least, prompt a startup of some industrial capacity. We've got fuel-grade ethanol plants popping up here to produce gasoline oxygenator for the EPA requirement. Russ Maki
Re: [MBZ] Hurricane snow ties
David Brodbeck wrote: Russ Maki wrote: I prefer bags of playbox sand. Do the home improvement stores out there still sell those nifty long, thin, Quickrete Tubesand bags? Those were great. Yep. Home Depot seems to move a lot of them in the winter.
Re: [MBZ] Hurricane tires
BillR wrote: [BillR] You can get nasty can't you? No, that's not nasty, that's just sarcastic. You posted to a thread in which people were comparing notes on snow tires -- seeking information to safely navigate the icy hazards of the upcoming winter -- to gloat about living in the Sun Belt. That's my read, anyway. My grandparents moved to the Finland of Florida, Lake Worth, in the early 1950s. I remember visiting as a kid -- you could literally hear people speaking Finnish on the street. My mom and dad -- along with several other retired relatives -- wintered in Lake Worth for many years too. Their house got hit just once, when they lost about half their roof. They rebuilt but eventually left when my mother got ill, disillusioned with Florida's health-care system. She came back up north to die. I'm sorry to hear about the hassles you're having with your SD, Bill. Hope it all works out . Russ Maki
Re: [MBZ] Bio prices
I was on the phone the other day with a fuel/oil distributor who's getting into biodiesel. For the record, Wolf Oil of Slinger, Wis.. He had me interested until he told me their price for B-100 -- $25+ for a 5-gallon pail!! Boutique fuel, with an emphasis on the boutique. Ron Dwelle wrote: Just went to fill up. B-20 bio-diesel is $0.10/gallon higher than dino. Trying to figure out how that could be. $3.199 for dino and $3.299 for B-20. Ron Dwelle ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net _ This message scanned for viruses by CoreComm
Re: [MBZ] Hurricane snow ties
As with any area there are good and bad points. I'm with you there, Bill. Here's my rant, back at ya: During a pretty recent December, we got 54 inches of snow in southeastern Wisconsin. That's 54 inches of snow in one month. It was a wild blip on the bell curve, to be sure, but the nearest big city (Milwaukee) averages about 3 feet of snow in a season. And I'm just on the fringe of the serious snow belt. The Great Lakes are a snow-making machine in the winter! I love Wisconsin, but the weather can be ... er, character-building. I deal with it. Winter is not all unpleasant -- in fact, it can be great fun. Still, there are plenty of occasions when it delivers drudgery by the bucketload. Consider the worst chore you can think of. Now, imagine having a chortling heckler lounging nearby on a chaise, sipping a tall drink and hooting while you perform said chore. As I said, winter isn't all bad, and most of the ribbing on this list is good-natured -- but when you get poked in the ribs 30 or 40 times a season, every season, it gets a little old. On to the subject of the post, sort of: I have gone many years without snow tires. I've also ended up in the ditch more than a time or two. Since I drive a lot at night these days, I wouldn't have a car without them in the winter. As I recall, you posted that you didn't find them necessary, based on your winter driving experience (I surmise) some years ago. But modern snow tires are a far cry from the old clunkers of the bias-ply days. The H-rated tires (like the Nokian NRWs Ned K. and I were singing hosannas to awhile back) drive like touring tires and can navigate an unplowed road without drama. They've also been extremely durable -- Ned and I have both gotten 40,000 miles out of our sets, and they're still roadworthy. Other brands that use multicell rubber compounds don't hold up as well. I also recall you mentioning kitty litter as a winter driving aid -- I'm not sure if you meant for weight in the trunk or to spread under the wheels. If the latter, I'd have to disagree to a point. Once that stuff gets saturated with moisture, it's wet clay. I prefer bags of playbox sand. But then, I have snow tires, so I don't get stuck in the snow! Russ
Re: [MBZ] audi nut
Tjohn wrote: I remember the guy. I used to subscribe to the 108 list even though I never have owned one because I wanted to buy the know my stuff in case the right along. There was an insanely long thread there about how his 280 4.5 could do 150 mph. I'm pretty sure his name was Shane. Tjohn 82 300 SD 225K Ah. Shayne Pavlic. He used to post quite a bit on www.audifans.com ... but it looks like he's been pretty busy lately running a medical school in Belize! http://www.interamericanschool.com/faculty_staff.htm He speaks three languages!
Re: [MBZ] SNOW TIRES
BillR wrote: Gee .I've not had any problems with them in the past 20 years. Never slid around any of the three [partial] days I had to use the heater in the house. How are they in hurricanes?
Re: [MBZ] old list nostalgia/audi nut
Catching up a little on the name-calling thread -- I first subscribed to the mercedes-veterans list in '97 or so, looking for help in making my '71 /8 run right. I quickly stumbled into the largess of Frank Mallory, who gave me a rare W114 passenger side-view mirror and wouldn't even accept a dime for postage. Then Bill Wachsmuth swapped me a Becker Europa radio in exchange for an old BMW unit he probably had absolutely no use for. I went on to meet Todd Knutson through MBCA, as well as Dan Gordon, Randy Durrance, Jan Guthrie and a bunch of other great folks. The Internet and these lists were the conduit. I'm pretty low-key as a participant myself these days, but to all those who have helped me keep my cars on the highway -- Kaleb, Marshall, Andrew Strasvogel, to name a few more and neglect dozens of others -- I'm sincerely grateful. The years I've been subscribed are much less a badge of honor than they are an IOU. I've received far more than I've given. As for the smarta$$ who was wondering where the quattro nut went -- well, that wasn't me, but I do own an Audi. Here it is on frozen Lake Sinissippi, Wis., during a winter autocross: http://www.audifans.com/registry/view.php?action=viewImageimagefile=192.251.4000%20pic.jpg Take my word for it -- no sedan beats an old-school Audi with locking differentials when you're driving home on a country road in a foot of snow. Russ Maki Ixonia, Wis. ned kleinhenz wrote: Though I may not post often, I very much enjoy this list. And - AYE miss Kathy and her kind diplomacy with us geeks in the old MBCA list. BTW- I also belong to another list called mercedesmailinglist.comhttp://mercedesmailinglist.com I thought that was a decendent of the old MBCA list. It doesn't get a lot of traffic. What was its origin? Ned Kleinhenz '95 E300D x2 '85 300D '80 300TD ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net _ This message scanned for viruses by CoreComm
Re: [MBZ] audi nut
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Ah, I'm the smartass who asked about our in infamous audi nut.. and if I knew it was you I wouldn't have asked where he went. At least you respect the car? I think it was another nut on the list (not me) extolling the virtues of the cars from Ingolstadt. My experience is love-hate. I wouldn't own a new one -- the lone Audi dealership in southeast Wisconsin is not known for their service. A sad circumstance, considering the headquarters of the Audi Club of North America is five miles from my home! My 4000 is like my Benzes except for the electrical system and door handles, for which the car's designers should be beaten severely. The 5-cylinder 2.2 liter engine is nearly indestructible -- a very torquey undersquare design that can deliver surprising horsepower when turbocharged, as in the 5000/200 models (owners often modify them to run at 1.8 bar). My car is a lot tamer, but still fun on the track -- and ridiculously forgiving. On snow and ice the center and rear differentials can be locked to deliver power to three wheels. That said, my quattro is down for service -- needs a new starter. :-/ Russ Maki
Re: [MBZ] once again between diesels
The turbo engines do indeed stand out when you're at a significant altitide.While driving my '82 cd home from LA I fondly remember passing everything in sight on uphill grades between Albuquerque and Santa Fe. Russ Maki kevin kraly wrote: the turbos are clear winners for long trips. That's true, especially for us Pacific Northwesterners traveling mountain passes. The NA 300CD did well taking most passes hovering around 60MPH floored and loaded with four people and luggage though. I'm sure that the 300CDt's that you have can better that by 10MPH. It does make merging a LOT easier. Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon, currently between MB diesels ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net _ This message scanned for viruses by CoreComm
Re: [MBZ] audi nut
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I do remember that he called himself the quattro king? Ring any bells? He was also a benz owner which I guess the reason he was on the list. I used to be a a Audi owner, what I had was a quattro coupe with a turbo 5 cyl and sadly it was destroyed by a drunk ass in a pickup. That turbo coupe is the Audi everybody drools after... hope it saved you from injury, at least. And now that you mention the handle I do recall the quattro king. He was wise to have an MB as a backup.
Re: [MBZ] Burning van (was Rita)
Well, both situations applied, as I recall. A taillight bracket on a gypsy semi fell off the trailer, punched the minivan's gas tank and then threw a shower of sparks as it was dragged along the pavement. The van was a ball of fire before the driver could get into the breakdown lane. Both parents were also burned but managed to barely escape with their lives. One child survived for a few days. The truck came from Illinois, BTW, where they like to wink at regulation if you grease the right palms. The driver got his commercial license after buying a $100 pencil from the examiner. The resulting federal investigation has a former governor facing trial: http://www.ilcampaign.org/press/news/scandal/articles/2003-12-18TheState.html Russ Maki -- going to Quebec City this a.m. OK Don wrote: Or the fire started from the back -- On 9/24/05, Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Only the parents survived. Probably becuase the kids were 'safely' strapped into car seats. Christopher -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC The FSM created the Diesel Benz http://www.venganza.org/ ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net _ This message scanned for viruses by CoreComm
Re: [MBZ] Flat spots on tires
ned kleinhenz wrote: Thanks for the insight, Peter. All the tires have more than 35k miles on them. Only the Nokians are more than 4 years old. (But last winter those Nokians, with 47k+ miles on them, took me through the pre-Christmas blizzard on roads clogged with stuck SUVs and other AWDs). Separation of tread from the belts is a plausible expaination. It just means that all my tires are actually shot, even though they still have legal tread. Ned I've got a set of Nokian NRWs too -- they seem impervious to wear. They've been the winter tires on my wife's Mazda since the fall of 1998. They have to have 50,000 miles on them but they took me over unplowed roads after a 10-inch snowfall without any drama last winter. They're head and shoulders over the all-season Nokian WRs for traction -- they seem to wear better too. We'll try them for one more winter... Since you're a Nokian fan, Ned, I wonder if you know about this vendor: www.tirefactory.net . I got a set of Hakka Qs from them on closeout for $380 (not bad for 15-inch Nokies). Free shipping, too. Speaking of belt separations, My experience is that you can feel a tire with one at very low speeds. If it's on the front, the steering wheel will even want to wiggle. A tire out of balance starts shaking at higher speeds but feels fine at a crawl. Just my experience. Russ Maki (Also loving the BF Goodrich Traction T/A all-season)
Re: [MBZ] Rita kills even before making landfall
Er, Hans, what's your point? That the nursing home residents who died in the bus fire were brainwashed? The guy who fell out of the tree? And if you're so disdainful of broadcast news, why do you have it tuned in? Never before have the broadcast media been more able to give viewers and listeners *exactly* what they want, thanks to cable/satellite technology. You want to watch nothing but business news? Home improvement tips? The world according to Rupert Murdoch? Telemundo? Leave It to Beaver? Pick your poison. The choices have also fragmented the viewing audience far more than during the days when the three networks were supreme. Ratings share for CNN, Fox News MSNBC and the rest are actually pretty small. Check it out: http://www.mediabistro.com/tvnewser/ratings/default.asp As for profitability, yeah, they make money. That's why they're in business. Part of the business plan is to give people what they want. And that's what they deliver to the thin share of the viewers who choose to watch them. Disclaimer: I'm a journalist who works for a daily newspaper. I would certainly agree that the trend in TV news is to dumb down and trivialize content, in order to make news programming more entertaining. The local 10 p.m. newscasts here in Milwaukee have been running consumer tests of household appliances! And the temptation is always there to follow their lead -- our newsroom is generally one of the million or so cable customers tuned into CNN and Fox, just to see what they're doing. Video of jetliners with malfunctioning landing gear, or pretty missing women, or severe weather, can be pretty entertaining from a distance. As I recall, Hans, you're in the Houston area. I can only imagine what it's like to be down there right now, but from a distance (and it will ALWAYS be a distance -- give me a blizzard over a hurricane any day) it seems like the civil response to Rita has been FAR better than that to Katrina. As for the bus tragedy, it was terrible but could have happened on any day. A few years ago almost an entire family of eight was incinerated up here in Milwaukee when the minivan they were in ran over a piece of debris that punctured their gas tank. Only the parents survived. Of course we could look back to the good old days, when electronic media weren't around to brainwash us. Oh, to be back in 1900...in Galveston... Russ Maki Hans Neureiter wrote: Rich, I think we need to thank at the brainwashing over exposure from the never ending, never stopping news people (a profitable branche of economy, I my add). As I type this, in my background I hear the same shit you are listening to: minimal info, max human impact (i.e. ratings). On 9/23/05, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: They were from a very nice nursing/assisted living home not far from the house. Very sad. I go by there often, was thinking about checking it out soon for my own parents. I was out biking this morning, saw the ammablance taking away a guy who appeared to have fallen out of a very small tree while pruning it, for some reason not immediately apparent. My first local pre-victim sighting. Not sure if Rita or stupidity or both should be blamed. --R TimothyPilgrim wrote: 24 seniors dead when oxygen tanks explodes after bus catches fire... Man does that ever suck. http://www.cnn.com/2005/WEATHER/09/23/rita/index.html Tim ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX '82 300SD, '95 E300D _ This message scanned for viruses by CoreComm ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net _ This message scanned for viruses by CoreComm
Re: [MBZ] Daimler Chrysler diesel hybrid prediction for US market
Royce Engler wrote: It was my understanding that DC built the PT Cruiser as a delivery vehicle (truck) in the European market, showed it at an auto show and the Americans demanded that they sell it over here. They couldn't keep up with demand for the first couple of yearsOTOH, it is just a Neon with a different body... Royce Engler 1985 300TD Turbo 265K No, it was a concept car before it went into production. I remember seeing it on a turntable at the Chicago Auto Show. Russ Maki
Re: [MBZ] OT Vega
Remember the Spirit? It was kind of a downsized FWD Eagle. AMC launched the line in late 1978 or '79 with ceremonies in communities across the country named Spirit, including the settlement of Spirit, Wis., near the hometown of our listmate Meade Dillon. I was there with camera and notepad to scribble over the unveiling -- they biggest thing that EVER happened in Spirit, Wis., I'm sure. The Spirit (a co-worker had one) was a POS -- the last gasp of AMC. The Eagle was a pretty durable set of wheels. Its rear seal issues weren't that rare among US straight sixes, as I recall. .I know many of the Fords I drove during the period had similar problems. Russ Maki Ixonia, Wis. (With a 6-cyl '53 Ford F-100 in the garage -- no oil leaks so far) kevin kraly wrote: what was that funny looking 4 wheel drive they had? I think the 6's were 200 cid. You must be talking about the AMC Eagle. The 6 cylinder engine were 4.2L 258 CID, and many had rear main seal problems including the one that we had. It was a wonderful winter car while living in Bend, OR. The college is built on a hill, and if you didn't have a 4WD on a snowy winters day, you didn't get up there! Rather than having the rear main seal and clutch replaced, we shoulda just dropped a 617.95x turbodiesel into it! Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon 1978 300CD 200K+ miles, Vinnie ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net _ This message scanned for viruses by CoreComm
Re: [MBZ] OT Vega
Mike Canfield wrote: The Spirit was NOT a FWD car. Oops, my mistake. It kind of stuck in my mind that way because at that point the Big Three were all rushing FWD platforms into production (Horizon, Escort, Citation). The gang at Kenosha had to be different. Sure seems like I'm not going to get by with any AMC slip-ups in this crowd. How about that Matador? ;) Russ
Re: [MBZ] Idle curiousity about the CHMSL
I'd fix it -- my coupe was rear-ended during the afternoon rush a couple years ago. Maybe a brake light at eye level might have averted it. Then again, who knows. Russ Maki Ixonia, Wis. David Brodbeck wrote: Thanks. I was just curious. It has a sort of flimsy, J.C. Whitney, aftermarket look to it. It needs a new bulb; I'll probably fix it, just because I do think CHMSLs are a good idea. ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net _ This message scanned for viruses by CoreComm
Re: [MBZ] Knock in reverse
Your shift linkage must be out of kilter. Sounds like the parking pawl is knocking against the steering column. Off topic, 72, but are you sure you want to delve too deeply into this vehicle? Seems to have some issues -- and the great unstated statement about these W114s is that they'll empty your pocket, kill your brain cells and leave you with a $700 car. A w115 diesel is a better bet if you like the body style. Russ [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi all, My 72 250 seams to have developed a knock when I shift it in reverse. This only happens when I engage reverse and as soon as the tranny goes into gear, it pulls the car just a hair back, the steering column moves 1/4 and knocks. It shounds like it's comming from the column. I'm guessing this is not normal. Any suggestions? Thanks George _ This message scanned for viruses by CoreComm ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net _ This message scanned for viruses by CoreComm
Re: [MBZ] No torque (was 72 250 no vacuum advance)
George, how did the exhaust look? Were you getting any black smoke with the car under load? I just wonder if your ignition system has troubles other than spark timing. Russ [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi all, I moved the vacuum from retard to advance, RPM's are at 1800 at idle and 52' @ 4500 RPM w/Advance just like the manual states. Took her out for a spin. Everything was great until I reached the first stop. Then she stalled. took quite an effort to get her going again. I think because there was a little dip in the road. Brought her back to my place and stopped on the driveway. The driveway is a little incline, about 30'. No matter what I did, the car did not have any power to get up the hill. Flooring the pedal did nothing.
Re: [MBZ] 72 250 no vacuum advance
Back in the day, it was pretty clear what to do with the emissions equipment on these cars: disconnect it! Once the relays and black boxes started malfunctioning on cars of the period (and they all did, didn't they?) the owner was presented with the option of replacing an expensive component of dubious value or just bypassing the vacuum lines. With a 30-year-old car the option seems all the more obvious. There's a mechanic in my region who restores MBs from the 50s and 60s. He's well-known and of high repute. I took my '71 250 there to get it running right after years of driving it around at about 85% of the performance Gottlieb D intended. When I got it back he had bypassed both switching valves and the retard side of the vacuum advance. A line from the vacuum port on the front carb fed the advance side of the distributor diaphragm and the antistall dashpot on the rear carb. I won't bore you with other adjustments the car needed -- the point is that it ran fine with all the boxes and switches disconnected. Russ Maki Ixonia, Wis. Peter Frederick wrote: George: there is an rpm sensor that switches the valve from retard to advance at I think 2000 rpm (will have to check that). If the valve is bad, you are out of luck, they don't make it any more and you will have to engineer a substitute some way or the other from different valves. You should have vac on the supply side, and it should switch between the retard and advance sides when the valve switches. You can manually operate the valve by connecting 12V across it. Note that if the hoses aren't connected correctly, you may have vac on the retard that goes away when it switches, or vice versa. I will check that later this evening, have to find the book. Peter ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net _ This message scanned for viruses by CoreComm
Re: [MBZ] 72 250 no vacuum advance
Well, I dug out my W114 technical data manual -- it says timing should be 42 to 50 degrees at 3000 rpm with vacuum advance operating (funny -- only 31-39 degrees at that RPM for the '71). I'd set the engine at speed and see if the timing at idle sorts itself out. The TDM also says 8 degrees BTDC at starter speed without vacuum as an installation value. I also have a British aftermarket manual by Intereurope that specifies TDC at 800 rpm with vacuum diaphragm disconnected. Also, 19 to 28 degrees at 1500 rpm, 29-35 degrees at 3000, both with vacuum disconnected. FWIW. The manual covers all W114s for all model years, so I take its technical data with a grain of salt. As you can see by the above numbers, specs are pretty broad. I think you can get the spark timing close just by listening to the engine. If it idles smoothly and doesn't ping under load, I'd declare it to be at spec. Russ [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks Russ, Do you know what the timing should be set for that situation? On my 250 it states 4 ATDC but that's with the system retarding. -- Original message -- Back in the day, it was pretty clear what to do with the emissions equipment on these cars: disconnect it! Once the relays and black boxes started malfunctioning on cars of the period (and they all did, didn't they?) the owner was presented with the option of replacing an expensive component of dubious value or just bypassing the vacuum lines. With a 30-year-old car the option seems all the more obvious. There's a mechanic in my region who restores MBs from the 50s and 60s. He's well-known and of high repute. I took my '71 250 there to get it running right after years of driving it around at about 85% of the performance Gottlieb D intended. When I got it back he had bypassed both switching valves and the retard side of the vacuum advance. A line from the vacuum port on the front carb fed the advance side of the distributor diaphragm and the antistall dashpot on the rear carb. I won't bore you with other adjustments the car needed -- the point is that it ran fine with all the boxes and switches disconnected. Russ Maki Ixonia, Wis. Peter Frederick wrote: George: there is an rpm sensor that switches the valve from retard to advance at I think 2000 rpm (will have to check that). If the valve is bad, you are out of luck, they don't make it any more and you will have to engineer a substitute some way or the other from different valves. You should have vac on the supply side, and it should switch between the retard and advance sides when the valve switches. You can manually operate the valve by connecting 12V across it. Note that if the hoses aren't connected correctly, you may have vac on the retard that goes away when it switches, or vice versa. I will check that later this evening, have to find the book. Peter ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net _ This message scanned for viruses by CoreComm ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net _ This message scanned for viruses by CoreComm ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net _ This message scanned for viruses by CoreComm
Re: [MBZ] 72 250 no vacuum advance
Sounds to me like your spark timing is ok...the car should idle at 800-900 rpm. Set the speed with the idle adjustment screws on the carbs. If your idle is abnormally high, make sure the fast-idle cam isn't sticking. It's in the front choke housing. One more obervation regarding the distributor. If I were looking for reliable, (relatively) low-maintenance service from this car, I'd get a Pertronix electronic ignition module to replace the original transistorized ignition. I friend of mine has this setup in his W114 coupe and it is excellent. I find myself fiddling with the points in my car a lot, but I don't drive it that much. If I did, I'd get a Pertronix unit installed. Russ [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hey Russ, I can probably hit the 42 degrees at 3000 RPM's right now without making any adjustments, except moving the vacuum line. As it stands the vacuum is always on and is currently on the retard side of the distritubutor. It is set to 800 RPM 4 ATDC as stated by the book plate on frame. If I remove the vacuum the timing moves up to about 10 BTDC but is cyling at about 1200 RPM (going from memory right now. might be alot higher) I'm sure if I move the vacuum to the advance port it will be in the 42 degree range and IDELING at 3000 RPM. So my question is where do I set my idle speed? is it 800 RPM 8 BTDC? or do I attach the vaccum to advance, and bring the RPMs down with the idle screw on the carbs? If so down to 800? 1000? ... Do I lock down the distributor as is or do I still need to fiddle with it? Thanks George
Re: [MBZ] Modulator valve blues update
Theodore Lucas wrote: I removed the new modulator valve and reinstalled the old one and the trans. shifts with a bit of flair from 2nd to 3rd gear. All others shifts seem OK. Does this car have the 722.315 transmission? If so, the 2-3 flare makes it sound like a candidate for the K1 spring upgrade...if you haven't done it already, that is. Russ Maki Ixonia, Wis.
Re: [MBZ] Substitute for ATE brake?
I can endorse Pegasus wholeheartedly. I buy Redline fluids from them pretty regularly, along with Hawk brake pads. Russ Maki Ixonia, Wis. RAH wrote: Joe, Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies, Inc. 2475 S 179th St New Berlin WI 53146 USA . Order Toll Free: 1-800-688-6946 (US Canada) Local/International Order Line: 262-317-1234 Technical Questions: 262-317-1200 http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/ProductDetails.asp?RecId=978 They show it in stock for $8.99 + $5.69 shipping to me. I'm going to call Essex Monday and see what there price is since they are closer to me. Russ Essex Parts Services Inc. 125 Hampton Court Cramerton, NC 28032-1445 Phone: 704-824-6030 Fax: 704-478-1030 or 800-335-7223 _ This message scanned for viruses by CoreComm ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net _ This message scanned for viruses by CoreComm
Re: [MBZ] Adjusting SLS ride height
Meade, You may want to examine the rear subframe bushings if you haven't replaced them before. Tired bushings will let the rear end sag. Russ Maki Ixonia, Wis. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Loren, Joe's already hit on this - adjusting ride height via control valve is a no-no, specified method is to replace the spring pads. Thanks for the info on 'how to remove rear springs', have you done this on a 123? Very respectfully, /s/ LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR Digest Lurker since 2001 '85 300TD 322k miles (Euro 5spd) '96 Infiniti I30 149k miles (wife's 5spd) '73 Balboa 20 'Sanctification' Charleston SC ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net _ This message scanned for viruses by CoreComm
Re: [MBZ] Ignition Module Under Battery Tray 250C
Joseph Shaw wrote: I went back out to remove the battery and look at this module underneath the battery tray, but cannot see a way to move the battery tray to get at it. Is it the finned box that attaches to the tray itself and hangs underneath it along the very front edge of the battery tray? That's it All you really want to do is make sure the wiring to it is ok. Have you checked your point gap yet? And that lone wired-up anti-dieseling solenoid? One more thought...The ignition circuitry bypasses the ballast resistor when the car is cranking. You could be getting a strong spark when the starter is running, but a bad ballast resistor (or malfunction elsewhere in the ignition) could be killing your engine once you stop cranking and the ballast is no longer bypassed. If I were playing Car-nak the Magnificent (the envelope please), I'd say you have two problems: fuel delivery (car won't idle due to two bad fuel cutoff solenoids) and weak spark (car won't go over 25 mph when it does run: insufficient point gap, bad ballast resistor, eroded connections to the ignition module, bad plug/coil wires -- who knows). One question to confirm half my spitball theory: did the car's refusal to start begin after you broke off that solenoid wire? Sounds like the PO disconnected the emission control boxes and solenoids. You probably/should have vacuum lines running directly from the carburetor bases to the conical side of the vacuum advance unit on the distributor and to the throttle dashpot on the rear carb. They originally were routed through the solenoids. Not that that's the primary issue at the moment... Russ
Re: [MBZ] Diagnosing problems on my '72 250C
Joseph Shaw wrote: I have had it running well enough to drive-about four months ago-though it would NOT get up to speed at that time-would rev fine when sitting still, and would start out, but would max out at about 20-25 MPH and simply not go any faster. This is when I decided to start with the carbs, as it had been sitting for four or five years. I'm just inclined to suspect the ignition on these cars. When it was running, what did it do when you got to 25 mph? Did it want to shift at that point? Did it choke/cough/sputter? Or did you just lose power? Did it ping or backfire when you tried to climb a hill? I'd pull the battery to inspect the connections at the ignition module below it. Make sure the wiring and connections are intact and clean. Battery acid can eat 'em up!. Are there two black boxes on the passenger fender and a couple vacuum solenoids? They retard the timing at low RPM/cold engine temps. I doubt that a malfunction there could keep you from exceeding 25mph, but it could contribute to a cumulative effect. I'll tell you the driving symptoms I had with one malfunctioning idle cutoff solenoid, which was on the rear carb: The car would idle OK with the front carb's throttle adjusted so it was cracked open a bit. While maintaining 30 mph or so the car would surge slightly. On the highway you wouldn't know there was a problem -- it would cruise at 80 without complaint. With two non-functional solenoids, the car will not idle. You'll probably get it firing by pumping the throttle but it won't stay lit. You can check the remaining wired solenoid on your car with a voltmeter. Hook it up in the solenoid circuit (there should be an easy-to-access connector in the line) and turn the ignition on. You should get battery voltage or close to it. If it's not drawing voltage, it's dead. Good luck Russ
Re: [MBZ] Diagnosing problems on my '72 250C
How's the ignition? Does your car have that bastardized semi-electronic/semi-breaker point setup with the control box conveniently located under the battery tray? If so, an aftermarket electronic ignition like a Pertronix would make a big difference. The stock setup is a huge headache. I'd also second the advisory to look at the fuel cutoff solenoids in the carburetor bases. If they aren't energizing, your car will never run right. Russ M Joseph Shaw wrote: Okay, I have asked several things about this, so you are either probably really tired of hearing about it, or at least really familiar with it by now. I rebuilt the carbs over the course of the past two or three weeks. Started it yesterday, and it started up well. It will idle run for a while (ten or twenty seconds) but then always dies out-regardless of whether I am applying throttle, letting off throttle, etc. Simply will not stay running, though it usually runs smoothly and sounds good while it is running. Any suggestions/ideas on what this could be? Usually after it dies I can restart it, though often I have to pour a little dab of gas into the carbs to get it started-does not like to cold start on its own the first time. I will also say that it just GUZZLES gas-like if I fill a pint bottle of gas and have it hooked up to the pump, by the time the ten-twenty seconds are over, the bottle is empty. That would equate to a gallon every 2.5 minutes, which would be 2.5 MPG if travelling at 65 MPH! Any suggestions? I have the proper/recommended after-market electric fuel pump on it, but, again, this si the one that is SUPPOSED to be the proper one. It had the same problem before I put this pump on it, but still had an electric-of the same PSI rating. It had not been run for about five years prior to me buying it, if that adds any info of note. Any ideas? Help! Thanks! Michael ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net _ This message scanned for viruses by CoreComm
Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???
Barry Stark wrote: Russ - According to George Murphy the issue was not just to get the brushes to fit, it was the hardness of the brush compound. George found that the brushes that the Germans used were of a much softer composition than the ones we make here. Evidently the local brushes being harder caused premature commutator wear. That's what makes his special. Barry Sorry Barry, but I'm not buying it. As I recall, Murphy also believes W123 CC amp failures are caused by the wrong brake light bulbs. I don't buy that either. Obviously, you don't want to install brushes for a vacuum cleaner motor into a 12 volt DC motor. You want 12-volt automotive brushes. Like the ones that are installed in starters, alternators, power window motors and other applications by the millions, every day, around the world. The original brushes I replaced in a Bosch blower motor a year ago had worn a deep notch into the commutator. If the factory originals were so soft, I can't understand how they did all that damage. I suspect that the big difference between the brushes George sells and the ones everybody else sells is the price. At carbonbrush.com, they're $6-something a pair. From Murphy they're what...$20? I know guy's got to make a living -- mercedessource.com does a lot of the same kind of packaging (fuse upgrade kit) and sells at a premium. More power to 'em both. A lot of people buy from them -- I don't. Russ Maki Ixonia, Wis.
Re: [MBZ] No power up hill
Roberto, poor spark could produce the kind of power loss under load that you experienced. If your car's ignition system is anything like that on the M130 engines that came to the States, you should consider upgrading it to a Pertronix electronic ignition system. See www.pertronix.com. Some M130 distributors can accommodate a stock Pertronix trigger unit, but they may require that you ship them your distributor for a custom installation. Russ Maki Ixonia, Wis. Roberto wrote: No power up hill Hello MB lovers I would like to take advantage to introduce my self as well as post my first question. I live in Venezuela and I am a proud owner of a 1972 W108 280S that will be a full restoration project in a few years, the car was in good generaly conditions when I bought it few years back but after and overheating I decided to rebuild the engine, it is a M130 that I just finished, rebored cylinders to 0.75mm over size with a linnig in the cylinder #4, new 0.25mm over size cam and crankshaft bearings, new vavle guides and the seats was resurfaced as well as the head. I started the engine set the timing in 10° BTDC, dwell at 39° and ran it for 20minutes at 2000 rpm, after that the car has logged about 200 miles in short runs near home, the temperature always around 176° (200 in traffic with out electric fan) and the oil pressure 43 psi (3 bar). Since I have been testing the car in flat terrain and city conditions maybe I did not be aware before but yesterday I had to take a humongus steped hill and when I said huge is true the road is about 1 mile long and the inclination must be more than 30°. The point is the car started to climb well but a soon the climb became harder I noticed lost of power to the point that I had to put the transmission in 1 in order to made the top since there is no way to return before. Another thing I noticed was a high gas comsuption during this climb, the onlly thing i ddi not mention before is that the transmission slip in reverse and the pressure modulator vavle is leaking a little besides that there is nothing abnormal to report. What do you guys think could be wrong here, I will perform a new compression test in order to compare, the one I did before wasa round 165 psi all around. Thanks for your patient and waiting for your thougths about. Roberto Alvarado 1958 VW Karmann Ghia (project) 1965 VW Beetle 1972 MB W108 280S 1977 VW Westfalia camper ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net _ This message scanned for viruses by CoreComm
Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???
Richard Hattaway wrote: Then you have to make the decision about replacing the fan motor if found bad, or putting new brushes in it. Our friend George Murphy has the brushes, and I am SURE that if he has them there are multiple other sources as well.. (c: New motors are expensive. So you may want to talk to your local motor rebuilder if budget is an issue. Richard K4PKV Some of you may recall that I had a batch of blower motor brushes made up last year. After I did so I stumbled across this web site: http://www.carbonbrush.com/automotivebrush.htm Judging by my invoice from Schink Graphite, brush No. 54H on the web page is the same width and thickness as the brushes I got from the brush factory. The pigtail appears to be mounted from the side of the brush rather than a recess at the end like the original, but since the brush housing in the Bosch/Behr motor has a slot in it, I'd think it ought to be workable. The carbonbrush.com brushes are about 1/6 inch shorter than the Schunk brushes. They're also priced about 75 cents cheaper. and apparently available in lots of less than two dozen, although I have NO experience doing business with this vendor. The company name, address and phone number is on their main web page, http://www.carbonbrush.com/ Russ Maki Ixonia, Wis.
Re: [MBZ] Air Conditioning Mystery
Don, my experience is with W123 chassis cars, but I think the climate control system is similar to your 380. My '82s have the climate control with monovalve. Assuming your pushbutton panel directs air where it's supposed to go, I'd start looking for cracked solder joints. Reflow all the solder connections in the pushbutton unit, blower switch and temp control wheel. An illuminated gooseneck magnifier makes it a snap if your eyes are getting a little dim like mine. If reflowing the joints in the panel doesn't make a difference, I'd pull the blower relay and climate control relay box. In the W123 they're behind the glovebox, but I have no clue on the W126. Wherever. Open 'em up and reflow them too. My experience is with my '82 300cd, which blew icy cold on hot days but would suddenly stop blowing altogether (this is with the center button depressed) at any speed. After a couple minutes it resumed with fan speed at full-blast, like it was catching up. How about trying this to indicate whether your CC problem is electrical rather than vacuum related: I could get the blower back into action in my car manually by punching the No. 2 button, the one to the immediate right of the defrost button that sends air to the footwell. I reflowed the pushbutton unit first to no avail, but the resoldering in the blower/cc relay boxes did the trick! I wish I could tell you which one made the difference, but once I cracked out my 25a soldering iron, I was a raging bull. If it looked like a lead/tin alloy, I was melting it. Russ Maki Ixonia, Wis. Don Teresa Merriman wrote: Gracias for the input. For awhile if I turned on the air with blower on before I started the car it would run for awhile, Don´t ya just love it when ya don´t get all the information on the first go around, dahhh, sorry. Should I still let out some freon? Don On 6/21/05, Trampas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: You have too much Freon in the system. When you stop the high side pressure gets higher due to low air flow, this will turn on the Aux fan in front of car. If pressure continues to increase it will turn off the AC compressor. If you remove a small amount of Freon this problem will go away. Regards, Trampas -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas Sent: Monday, June 20, 2005 11:50 PM To: Don Teresa Merriman; Mercedes mailing list Subject: Re: [MBZ] Air Conditioning Mystery Is the condenser condensing at low speeds? Is there a cutout on the blower if things are not as they are supposed to be in the system? I went through the whole circuit diagrams and schematic for the A/C system a couple of years ago, and forgot most of it, but I do remember there are a bunch of switches and such that monitor temps and pressures, and turn stuff on and off when those things change. Might be worth studying the diagrams and seeing what is connected to the blower to shut it off? That isn't much help, but in studying the schematics I got a good understanding of how it works or not, as the case may be. --R Don Teresa Merriman wrote: Hola amigos I have a air conditioning mystery with my 1982 380SEL. Replaced the condenser and compressor, both only lasted 472,000 miles. Interesting that the Delco Morraine OE unit only lasted 472,000 miles, same unit as used on new GM products in the 80´s. The blower motor works at all three speeds, the button for the automatic temp control system works. The temp control wheel works OK. The problem is when the air flow is slow or non exitant. Driving on the open road with a constant air flow the air conditioning works all day long, the problem is when the air flow is cut down, stopped, in traffic, or when you really need the air. The engine temp is consistent at 80C, never a under the hood temp too high, only when stopped or low air flow. When the temp goes up the electric fan kicks in at the appropriate temp. The mystery is why only does the blower quit working when the air flow is low or non existent? Gracias amigos -- Don Teresa Merriman Market Place Mexico Vacation Rentals Property Administration ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com http://www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com http://www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com http://www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com http://www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com http
Re: [MBZ] 126 DIFF MOUNT REPLACEMENT ADVICE
Dan Weeks wrote: At the advice of the list, I'm going to replace my diff mount to see if it stops the diff whine, now progressing to a rumble, that I've been noticing. Is this an idiot job? If so, I qualify. Tips, tools required, etc? Is it as simple ask putting a jack under the diff, unbolting one and bolting in the new? Thanks! Careful with the bolts that attach the mount to the rear diff cover, which is 20-year-old aluminum. I'd attach the mount to the cover first, before installing the four bolts to the chassis. Russ
Re: [MBZ] Congratulations, We Survived [OT]
redghost wrote: I always felt that Darwin took care of the weaker ones. Styro just delays the inevitable. Personal responsibility and the ability to survive adverse events strengthens the herd. Now we have lilly livered, over intellectual, nincompoops with high self esteem, but a huge lack of common sense and a large feeling of entitlement. my $0.02 That's the way I feel about legalizing drugs. Russ Maki Ixonia, Wis.
