[MBZ] oil sucker

[wilton strickland]

'Don't know how one could work better than my $2 one used with oil at
operating temp.

Wilton

[MBZ] Oil sucker

[wilton strickland]

A 5/8 OD plastic tube inserted very easily and snuggly into only the larger
top inch and a half or so of dipstick tube allows entire diameter of
dipstick tube to carry oil from lowest point in pan as it was designed to
do.  My fabric-embedded, clear plastic tube does not collapse carrying hot
oil, though an earlier, cheaper one without fabric did.  You don't need to
shove the evacuation tube into the pan.

Wilton

[MBZ] Oil sucker

[Jerry Herrman]

Is there a set of specific instructions for making a "$2 oil sucker"?


jerry

1982 240D

 

[MBZ] Oil sucker

[wilton strickland]

OK Don, thnx for re-posting my $2 oil sucker instructions.  They're also in
Aug 05 list archives.

Wilton

[MBZ] oil sucker

[Ron Dwelle]

Just got a Harbor Freight sales flyer--they have a Topsider knock-off 
(or maybe it's a real Topsider) for $24.99. Looks identical to a real 
Topsider.


Anyone have one of these? Is it worth the $20-less than a real Topsider?

Thanks,
Ron Dwelle

[MBZ] oil sucker

[Luther]

Anyone have the link to the $2 oil sucker?  I've got my own, but would like to
show some BioD folks another option.  TIA.
-- 
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (236 kmi)
'82 300CD (160 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) needs MAJOR work

[MBZ] oil sucker

[wilton strickland]

Here's my version.

HOMEMADE /$2 TOPSIDER/OIL SUCKER

(This method of oil removal by suction works only if oil dipstick tube goes
to lowest point in oil pan, as in a Mercedes.  Oil below bottom of dipstick
tube can't be removed by this method without sticking an oil evacuation tube
down the dipstick tube to bottom of the oil pan.  Mercedes engines since the
60's have been built with dipstick tubes to lowest point in the pan,
specifically, to expedite removal of oil by suction.  I don't know if
dipstick tubes in other engines go to bottom of the pan.)

EQUIPMENT/PARTS:

1.  Vacuum cleaner (shop or domestic unit) with ITS hose

2.  5 gal plastic joint compound or detergent bucket (or appropriate size
container strong enough not to collapse under vacuum cleaner suction)

3.  ~ 5 feet of 5/8 inch OD plastic tubing with some fabric in the walls to
help it resist collapsing due to suction and heat from the oil

CONSTRUCTION:

1.  Near the outer edge of the bucket's plastic top, cut a small hole
slightly smaller than the 5/8 inch tube.  Insert end of 5/8 inch tube snugly
into this hole - NOT to the bottom of the bucket - only an inch or so into
the top - enough to stay securely in place.  (If the discharge end of the
evacuation tube is below the oil level in the bucket, much bubbling and
turbulence will occur in the oil when most of the oil has been removed from
the engine, and the sucker sucks air.  The turbulence may cause oil to be
spattered near and drawn into the vac hose.)

2.  Near the opposite edge of the bucket's top from the 5/8 inch tube, cut a
hole slightly smaller than the suction end of the vac cleaner hose.  Insert
suction end of the vac cleaner hose snugly into this hole - NOT way down in
the bucket - just past the top enough to stay securely in place.

3.  Insert other end of 5/8 inch OD plastic tube snugly INTO TOP inch and a
half or so of engine oil dipstick tube.  (If you feel more comfortable by
wrapping a bit of tape around the plastic tube to increase its size and make
it fit more snugly INSIDE the dipstick tube, please do so.)

4.  Attach other end of vac hose to the vac cleaner.

UP-GRADED, FIRST CLASS UNIT:

In lieu of plastic joint compound or detergent bucket, use 5 gal. kerosene,
gasoline or other appropriate metal or plastic can with built-in pouring
spout and filler opening.

1.  Insert suction end of vac cleaner hose snugly into the can's pouring
spout.

2.  Insert/install end of 5/8 inch oil removal tube in the can's other
opening.  (I used PVC couplings/fittings of appropriate sizes to adapt
filler opening for the 5/8 inch tube.  I also used a short section of 1½
inch dia. PVC, installed with slight downward slope inside the top of the
can to discharge the oil across the can as far as possible from the
suction/vac opening.  The 1½ inch PVC pipe inside the can also causes the
air being removed from the engine after the siphoning action is broken to
slow down enough to "release" small droplets of oil that may be suspended in
it.)
Insert suction end of this tube into top of dipstick tube.

OIL REMOVAL:

1.  Have engine at or near operating temp.

2. Loosen top of oil filter canister & lift it ½ inch or so to allow oil to
run freely out of canister down into oil pan when vac starts.

3.  Turn vac cleaner ON.

4.  Change filter while oil flows into the receiver.  (I can't get mine
changed before the oil removal is finished.)

5.  When satisfied that oil removal is complete/sufficient, lift end of 5/8
inch tube out of dipstick tube.  (Turn end of tube upward and lift it upward
to aid flow of any oil in the tube into the bucket.)

6.  Turn vac cleaner OFF.

7.  Don't forget to replenish oil in the engine!

8.  Clean up - stow equipment.

I have used this type sucker several times with excellent results.  The
difference between a "troubled" oil change and a very clean and quick oil
change is the strength (resistance to collapse) of the oil evacuation tube.
Collapse of this tube can prevent the flow of anything - air, oil,
ANYTHING - into the bucket and can lead to the bucket's collapse if a "weak"
container is used.

My upgraded, first class sucker uses a metal kerosene can as the oil
receiver, but I have used a joint compound bucket as the oil receiver
several times with equal success.  Because of the permanently enclosed top
and pouring spout, the kerosene can makes dumping the oil much cleaner and
easier, though - never have to touch the oil, and don't have the trouble of
removing the top from a plastic container.

Use 5/8 inch OD plastic tubing with some fabric in the walls to help it
resist collapsing due to suction and heat from the oil.  The clear, limber,
plastic tubing is too weak - collapses easily.

Loosen top of oil filter canister & lift it a half inch or so to allow oil
to run freely out of canister down into oil pan when vac starts.

Using the sucker has several advantages for me.  The typical ones:  not
having to crawl under the car to get to the pan plug, not having to r

[MBZ] Oil sucker

[wilton strickland]

Item # 1 of $2 oil sucker Oil Removal instructions = "Have engine at or near
operating temp."

Wilton

[MBZ] Oil sucker

[Allan Streib via Mercedes]

Trying to piece together an oil sucker. Do I need a tube that will go to the 
bottom of the pan or would it work if it seals to the top of the dipstick tube?

Allan
___
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To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

[MBZ] Oil Sucker Fiasco

[B Dike]

Hot oil causes drain line to collapse.  Shop Vac hose
collapses.  Oil sprays into ShopVac canister.  Oil in
shop vac hose leaks all over garage floor afterward.  

BUT

Not a single solitary drop of oil remains in oil sump.
Around here we call this success.

Cheers,

Bruce

Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'




__ 
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 
http://mail.yahoo.com

[MBZ] Oil sucker fiasco

[wilton strickland]

Re. oil getting into vac unit, read my instructions for making $2 sucker
thoroughly.  They are in the list archives; Aug 05; first item on subject
list - $2 oil sucker.
Discharge oil at top of receiver tnk as far as possible from vac hose inlet.
Also, see item 2 off UPGRADED unit part of instructions.

Wilton

[MBZ] Oil sucker fiasco

[wilton strickland]

Re. oil getting into vac unit.  Most shop vacs produce much more suction
than needed to make oil sucker work well.  To reduce possibility of oil in
vac hose, it may help to reduce vac at oil container - opening in hose, etc.

Wilton

Re: [MBZ] Oil sucker

[Tjohn]

Let me second this. I switched tubing when Wilton shared this a couple of
years ago. You keep all the benefits of suction removal, and it takes only 2
minutes to evacuate all the oil when its hot. I can't imagine anything
easier.

Tjohn
82 300 SD 221K

On 11/7/05, wilton strickland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> A 5/8 OD plastic tube inserted very easily and snuggly into only the
> larger
> top inch and a half or so of dipstick tube allows entire diameter of
> dipstick tube to carry oil from lowest point in pan as it was designed to
> do. My fabric-embedded, clear plastic tube does not collapse carrying hot
> oil, though an earlier, cheaper one without fabric did. You don't need to
> shove the evacuation tube into the pan.
>
> Wilton
>
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] Oil sucker

[OK Don]

Yes - I saved everything except the credits --
__
On 11/14/05, Jerry Herrman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Is there a set of specific instructions for making a "$2 oil sucker"?
>
-

Subject: [DIESEL] $2 Topsider

I use my $2 sucker not because I'm cheap, but because I make conservate use
of resources already on hand and because I like to stay clean and stand
upright while changing oil.

Here, again, are my instructions for building and using a very efficient
sucker/topsider:

HOMEMADE /$2 TOPSIDER

EQUIPMENT/PARTS:

1.  Vacuum cleaner (shop or domestic unit) with ITS hose

2.  5 gal plastic joint compound or detergent bucket (or appropriate size
container strong enough not to collapse under vacuum cleaner suction)

3.  ~ 5 feet of 5/8" OD plastic tubing with some fabric in the walls to help
it resist collapsing due to suction and heat from the oil

CONSTRUCTION:

1.  Near the outer edge of the bucket's plastic top, cut a small hole
slightly smaller than the 5/8" tube.  Insert end of 5/8" tube snugly into
this hole - NOT to the bottom of the bucket - only an inch or so into the
top - enough to stay securely in place.  (If the discharge end of the
evacuation tube is below the oil level in the bucket, much bubbling and
turbulence will occur in the oil when most of the oil has been removed from
the engine, and the sucker sucks air.  The turbulence may cause oil to be
spattered near and drawn into the vac hose.)

2.  Near the opposite edge of the bucket's top from the 5/8" tube, cut a
hole slightly smaller than the suction end of the vac cleaner hose.  Insert
suction end of the vac cleaner hose snugly into this hole - NOT way down in
the bucket - just past the top enough to stay securely in place.

3.  Insert other end of 5/8" OD plastic tube snugly INTO TOP inch and a half
or so of engine oil dipstick tube.  (If you feel more comfortable by
wrapping a bit of tape around the plastic tube to increase its size and make
it fit more snugly INSIDE the dipstick tube, please do so.)

4.  Attach other end of vac hose to the vac cleaner.

UP-GRADED, FIRST CLASS UNIT:

In lieu of plastic joint compound or detergent bucket, use 5 gal. kerosene,
gasoline or other appropriate metal or plastic can with built-in pouring
spout and filler opening.

1.  Insert suction end of vac cleaner hose snugly into the can's pouring
spout.

2.  Insert/install end of 5/8" oil removal tube in the can's other opening.
(I used PVC couplings/fittings of appropriate sizes to adapt filler opening
for the 5/8" tube.  I also used a short section of 1 1/2" dia. PVC,
installed with slight downward slope inside the top of the can to discharge
the oil across the can as far as possible from the suction/vac opening.  The
1 1/2" PVC pipe inside the can also causes the air being removed from the
engine after the siphoning action is broken to slow down enough to "release"
small droplets of oil that may be suspended in it.)

OIL REMOVAL:

1.  Have engine at or near operating temp.

2. Loosen top of oil filter canister & lift it 1/2" or so to allow oil to
run freely out of canister down into oil pan when vac starts.

3.  Turn vac cleaner ON.

4.  Change filter while oil flows into the receiver.  (I can't get mine
changed before the oil removal is finished.)

5.  When satisfied that oil removal is complete/sufficient, lift end of 5/8"
tube out of dipstick tube.  (Turn end of tube upward and lift it upward to
aid flow of any oil in the tube into the bucket.)

6.  Turn vac cleaner OFF.

7.  Don't forget to replenish oil in the engine!

8.  Clean up - stow equipment.


I have used this type sucker several times with excellent results.  The
difference between a "troubled" oil change and a very clean and quick oil
change is the strength (resistance to collapse) of the oil evacuation tube.
Collapse of this tube can prevent the flow of anything - air, oil,
ANYTHING - into the bucket and can lead to the bucket's collapse if a "weak"
container is used..

According to the instructions, which are also posted on
http://oil.articles.mbz.org/oilsucker/, one should use a "joint compound or
detergent bucket (or appropriate size container strong enough not to
collapse under vacuum cleaner suction)"

My upgraded, first class sucker uses a metal kerosene can as the oil
receiver, but I have used a joint compound bucket as the oil receiver
several times with equal success.  Because of the permanently enclosed top
and pouring spout, the kerosene can makes dumping the oil much cleaner and
easier, though - never have to touch the oil, and don't have the trouble of
removing the top from a plastic container.

Instructions also recommend using "5/8" OD plastic tubing with some fabric
in the walls to help it resist collapsing due to suction and heat from the
oil." The clear, limber, plastic tubing is too weak.

Instructions also recomme

Re: [MBZ] Oil sucker

[OK Don]

I've got to paste in your name - hate to not acknowledge the
author/inventor. I'd run across it just last night while looking for
something else, so it was right "at hand" when I read the request.

On 11/15/05, wilton strickland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> OK Don, thnx for re-posting my $2 oil sucker instructions.  They're also in
> Aug 05 list archives.
>
> Wilton
>
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/

Re: [MBZ] oil sucker

[andrew strasfogel]

I'm too "old school" to even contemplate devices that purport to suck the
oil out. Draining it is the only natural way.


 On 10/17/05, Ron Dwelle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Just got a Harbor Freight sales flyer--they have a Topsider knock-off
> (or maybe it's a real Topsider) for $24.99. Looks identical to a real
> Topsider.
>
> Anyone have one of these? Is it worth the $20-less than a real Topsider?
>
> Thanks,
> Ron Dwelle
>
>
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] oil sucker

[Mitch Haley]

andrew strasfogel wrote:
> 
> I'm too "old school" to even contemplate devices that purport to suck the
> oil out. Draining it is the only natural way.

But sucking has been the official way for at least 20 years, especially
on the cars with sound encapsulation panels. 
There is one vehicle I'm glad I've been draining. A couple of years ago I
drained a 7.3L powerstroke and found a piston cooling nozzle in the drain
pan. I'd like to know what Ford paid for labor to replace that too cheap
little item. They had to pull the engine and pull the pan, then a different
dealer had to pull the engine and replace the pan that was damaged in the
first repair attempt. I even pointed out the prybar dent in the sealing
surface of the pan while they had the engine out, so I was rather upset when
I found out he put the pan back on. Nearly new $35k trucks shouldn't leave
black puddles on the floor.

Re: [MBZ] oil sucker

[Marshall Booth]

andrew strasfogel wrote:

I'm too "old school" to even contemplate devices that purport to suck the
oil out. Draining it is the only natural way.



Mercedes engine sumps DESIGNED after the late '60s were intended to be 
emptied by suction. More oil can be removed from the engine using 
suction, than by opening the drain plug! You can use the plug, but the 
results will be less effective.


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
Department of Pharmacology  1300 BST
Pittsburgh PA 15261 USA
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Re: [MBZ] oil sucker

[Luther Gulseth]

Here's a question about sucking oil-how does one tell when the oil is done  
sucking when the inside of your oile tube is black?


On Mon, 17 Oct 2005 17:09:40 -0500, Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>  
wrote:



andrew strasfogel wrote:
I'm too "old school" to even contemplate devices that purport to suck  
the

oil out. Draining it is the only natural way.



Mercedes engine sumps DESIGNED after the late '60s were intended to be
emptied by suction. More oil can be removed from the engine using
suction, than by opening the drain plug! You can use the plug, but the
results will be less effective.

Marshall




--
Luther  KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (happily running WVO/diesel mix)
'82 300CD (Slate grey, black MBTex, WVO/D mix)
'82 300D '90 300E (both parts or can run??)

Re: [MBZ] oil sucker

[Kevin]

On Mon, Oct 17, 2005 at 11:55:22PM -0500, Luther Gulseth wrote:
> Here's a question about sucking oil-how does one tell when the oil is done  
> sucking when the inside of your oile tube is black?

Listen for the slurping noise?

K

Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker

[ANGELO GIAIMO]

Been using the original Topsider for about 8 years now @ 3K oil change
intervals.

I changed the hoses and added a ball valve to shut it on/off.  Just pump it
up 40-50 times, insert the hose, open the valve and let  it do her thing.
I pull the hose out alittle once in a while (to listen for that "slirping"
noise) to check vacuum and then stick it all the way down again, sometimes
pumping it up again.  With the hose fully inserted,  and that slirping
noise constant, I know I'm done..

In the meantime, I'm changing the oil filter, checking all the other
fluids, getting the new oil containers open, etc, ready to finish the job.

Takes about 1/2 hourtotal.

Angelo Giaimo/Fishkill/IBM @ IBMUS
Internet: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
(845)894-4296 (tie 533); fax: 892-6235 (tie 532);
2070 Rt. 52; Hopewell Junction, N.Y. 12533

Re: [MBZ] oil sucker

[Rich Thomas]

Drink one beer.  When the beer is gone the oil is done.

It's that simple.

--R

Luther Gulseth wrote:

Here's a question about sucking oil-how does one tell when the oil is done  
sucking when the inside of your oile tube is black?


On Mon, 17 Oct 2005 17:09:40 -0500, Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>  
wrote:


 


andrew strasfogel wrote:
   

I'm too "old school" to even contemplate devices that purport to suck  
the

oil out. Draining it is the only natural way.

 


Mercedes engine sumps DESIGNED after the late '60s were intended to be
emptied by suction. More oil can be removed from the engine using
suction, than by opening the drain plug! You can use the plug, but the
results will be less effective.

Marshall
   





 

Re: [MBZ] oil sucker

[Marshall Booth]

Luther Gulseth wrote:
Here's a question about sucking oil-how does one tell when the oil is done  
sucking when the inside of your oile tube is black?


There will be almost no oil in the sump!

If you pump the handle a few more times, it will make a 
gurgling/slurping sound (like when you get to the bottom of the nearly 
emptied glass with a soda straw and suck).


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
Department of Pharmacology  1300 BST
Pittsburgh PA 15261 USA
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Re: [MBZ] oil sucker

[Marshall Booth]

Rich Thomas wrote:

Drink one beer.  When the beer is gone the oil is done.



You drink slowly!

Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
Department of Pharmacology  1300 BST
Pittsburgh PA 15261 USA
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Re: [MBZ] oil sucker

[Luther Gulseth]

I 2nd that opinion!

-Original Message-
From: Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Oct 18, 2005 10:32 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] oil sucker

Rich Thomas wrote:
> Drink one beer.  When the beer is gone the oil is done.
> 

You drink slowly!

Marshall
-- 
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
Department of Pharmacology  1300 BST
Pittsburgh PA 15261 USA
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

___
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (happily running diesel/WVO mix)
'82 300CD slate grey, black interior, 152,xxx mi

Re: [MBZ] oil sucker

[Rich Thomas]

The pleasure one derives from savoring the brew while contemplating the 
sublime German engineering and the unparallelled performance of the $2 
oil sucker is an experience not to be rushed.  I am sometimes so moved 
by a fit of scientific rapture that I am forced to consume another beer, 
$2 oil sucker in the standby position, while continuing to contemplate 
the lines and design of the Benz.


Such are the pleasures of these three things taken together.

--R

Luther Gulseth wrote:


I 2nd that opinion!

-Original Message-
From: Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Oct 18, 2005 10:32 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] oil sucker

Rich Thomas wrote:
 


Drink one beer.  When the beer is gone the oil is done.

   



You drink slowly!

Marshall
 

Re: [MBZ] oil sucker

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Sounds like a good article to post to the site to me.

wilton strickland wrote:


Here's my version.

HOMEMADE /$2 TOPSIDER/OIL SUCKER

(This method of oil removal by suction works only if oil dipstick tube goes
to lowest point in oil pan, as in a Mercedes.  Oil below bottom of dipstick
tube can't be removed by this method without sticking an oil evacuation tube
down the dipstick tube to bottom of the oil pan.  Mercedes engines since the
60's have been built with dipstick tubes to lowest point in the pan,
specifically, to expedite removal of oil by suction.  I don't know if
dipstick tubes in other engines go to bottom of the pan.)

EQUIPMENT/PARTS:

1.  Vacuum cleaner (shop or domestic unit) with ITS hose

2.  5 gal plastic joint compound or detergent bucket (or appropriate size
container strong enough not to collapse under vacuum cleaner suction)

3.  ~ 5 feet of 5/8 inch OD plastic tubing with some fabric in the walls to
help it resist collapsing due to suction and heat from the oil

CONSTRUCTION:

1.  Near the outer edge of the bucket's plastic top, cut a small hole
slightly smaller than the 5/8 inch tube.  Insert end of 5/8 inch tube snugly
into this hole - NOT to the bottom of the bucket - only an inch or so into
the top - enough to stay securely in place.  (If the discharge end of the
evacuation tube is below the oil level in the bucket, much bubbling and
turbulence will occur in the oil when most of the oil has been removed from
the engine, and the sucker sucks air.  The turbulence may cause oil to be
spattered near and drawn into the vac hose.)

2.  Near the opposite edge of the bucket's top from the 5/8 inch tube, cut a
hole slightly smaller than the suction end of the vac cleaner hose.  Insert
suction end of the vac cleaner hose snugly into this hole - NOT way down in
the bucket - just past the top enough to stay securely in place.

3.  Insert other end of 5/8 inch OD plastic tube snugly INTO TOP inch and a
half or so of engine oil dipstick tube.  (If you feel more comfortable by
wrapping a bit of tape around the plastic tube to increase its size and make
it fit more snugly INSIDE the dipstick tube, please do so.)

4.  Attach other end of vac hose to the vac cleaner.

UP-GRADED, FIRST CLASS UNIT:

In lieu of plastic joint compound or detergent bucket, use 5 gal. kerosene,
gasoline or other appropriate metal or plastic can with built-in pouring
spout and filler opening.

1.  Insert suction end of vac cleaner hose snugly into the can's pouring
spout.

2.  Insert/install end of 5/8 inch oil removal tube in the can's other
opening.  (I used PVC couplings/fittings of appropriate sizes to adapt
filler opening for the 5/8 inch tube.  I also used a short section of 1½
inch dia. PVC, installed with slight downward slope inside the top of the
can to discharge the oil across the can as far as possible from the
suction/vac opening.  The 1½ inch PVC pipe inside the can also causes the
air being removed from the engine after the siphoning action is broken to
slow down enough to "release" small droplets of oil that may be suspended in
it.)
Insert suction end of this tube into top of dipstick tube.

OIL REMOVAL:

1.  Have engine at or near operating temp.

2. Loosen top of oil filter canister & lift it ½ inch or so to allow oil to
run freely out of canister down into oil pan when vac starts.

3.  Turn vac cleaner ON.

4.  Change filter while oil flows into the receiver.  (I can't get mine
changed before the oil removal is finished.)

5.  When satisfied that oil removal is complete/sufficient, lift end of 5/8
inch tube out of dipstick tube.  (Turn end of tube upward and lift it upward
to aid flow of any oil in the tube into the bucket.)

6.  Turn vac cleaner OFF.

7.  Don't forget to replenish oil in the engine!

8.  Clean up - stow equipment.

I have used this type sucker several times with excellent results.  The
difference between a "troubled" oil change and a very clean and quick oil
change is the strength (resistance to collapse) of the oil evacuation tube.
Collapse of this tube can prevent the flow of anything - air, oil,
ANYTHING - into the bucket and can lead to the bucket's collapse if a "weak"
container is used.

My upgraded, first class sucker uses a metal kerosene can as the oil
receiver, but I have used a joint compound bucket as the oil receiver
several times with equal success.  Because of the permanently enclosed top
and pouring spout, the kerosene can makes dumping the oil much cleaner and
easier, though - never have to touch the oil, and don't have the trouble of
removing the top from a plastic container.

Use 5/8 inch OD plastic tubing with some fabric in the walls to help it
resist collapsing due to suction and heat from the oil.  The clear, limber,
plastic tubing is too weak - collapses easily.

Loosen top of oil filter canister & lift it a half inch or so to allow oil
to run freely out of canister down into oil pan when vac starts.

Using the sucker has several advantages for me.  The typic

Re: [MBZ] oil sucker

[Rich Thomas]

Dude you are in luck.  I was inspired by someone else's (Wilton 
Strickland?) and did this thing using my available resources plus Home 
Depot fittings.


http://www.constructivity.net/oilsucker.htm

Beer optional but highly recommended.

--R

Luther wrote:

Anyone have the link to the $2 oil sucker?  I've got my own, but would like to
show some BioD folks another option.  TIA.
  

Re: [MBZ] oil sucker

[Royce Engler]

Used my oil sucker to change oil today...I had been using an old dead
shopvac as the collection reservoir but went back to the plastic gas can
cause it is a whole lot easier to pour the used oil back into the empty 5qt
M1 containers.  Only drawback with the plastic can is the fact that it kinda
crushes, but it maintains enough shape to work ok.  All I need it to do is
collect the oil until I move it to the empty M1 jugs, so it works well
enough for that.

I normally check the operation by pulling the drain plug, and as always it
was dry as a bone.  That made me think that it's probably a good idea to
change the copper washer on the drain plug anyway, so did that.  Also used
the oil sucker to suck the fluid out of the PS pump and changed the filter
on it as well, refilled with M1 ATF.  I figure it will take a couple of
changes to get a complete flush and changeout of the fluid in the PS system.

One thing that may not be obvious from Wilton's post is the need to get the
engine up to operating temp before using the oil sucker.  I learned the hard
way that the oil sucker doesn't do a good job of sucking "cold" oil...got it
partially drained and couldn't get any more to come out.  Guess I could have
put it back in and warmed it up, but I went ahead and finished by draining
from the sump into my oil collection pan, which put me back into the
situation of making a mess as I tried to transfer to the empty jugs.

The local Jiffy Lube takes the recycled stuff with no problem.  You have to
sign a statement that it doesn't contain any "bad" stuff, but hey, it came
out of a MERCEDES, so it is primo waste oil ;-)

Royce Engler

1985 300TD Turbo 290K

[MBZ] Oil Sucker Instructions

[LarryT]

Howdy -
Can't figure out how to search the archives and I must have lost the email 
with the instructions but I recall someone having instructions for building 
an inexpensive Oil Sucker made from Home Depot parts.

Does anyone have that info?  If so, I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks!!

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
.


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[MBZ] Oil sucker instructions

[wilton strickland]

HOMEMADE /$2 TOPSIDER/OIL SUCKER

(This method of oil removal by suction works only if oil dipstick tube goes
to lowest point in oil pan, as in a Mercedes.  Oil below bottom of dipstick
tube can't be removed by this method without sticking an oil evacuation tube
down the dipstick tube to bottom of the oil pan.  Mercedes engines since the
60's have been built with dipstick tubes to lowest point in the pan,
specifically, to expedite removal of oil by suction.  I don't know if
dipstick tubes in other engines go to bottom of the pan.)

EQUIPMENT/PARTS:

1.  Vacuum cleaner (shop or domestic unit) with ITS hose

2.  5 gal plastic joint compound or detergent bucket (or appropriate size
container strong enough not to collapse under vacuum cleaner suction)

3.  ~ 5 feet of 5/8 inch OD plastic tubing with some fabric in the walls to
help it resist collapsing due to suction and heat from the oil

CONSTRUCTION:

1.  Near the outer edge of the bucket's plastic top, cut a small hole
slightly smaller than the 5/8 inch tube.  Insert end of 5/8 inch tube snugly
into this hole - NOT to the bottom of the bucket - only an inch or so into
the top - enough to stay securely in place.  (If the discharge end of the
evacuation tube is below the oil level in the bucket, much bubbling and
turbulence will occur in the oil when most of the oil has been removed from
the engine, and the sucker sucks air.  The turbulence may cause oil to be
spattered near and drawn into the vac hose.)

2.  Near the opposite edge of the bucket's top from the 5/8 inch tube, cut a
hole slightly smaller than the suction end of the vac cleaner hose.  Insert
suction end of the vac cleaner hose snugly into this hole - NOT way down in
the bucket - just past the top enough to stay securely in place.

3.  Insert other end of 5/8 inch OD plastic tube snugly INTO TOP inch and a
half or so of engine oil dipstick tube.  (If you feel more comfortable by
wrapping a bit of tape around the plastic tube to increase its size and make
it fit more snugly INSIDE the dipstick tube, please do so.)

4.  Attach other end of vac hose to the vac cleaner.

UP-GRADED, FIRST CLASS UNIT:

In lieu of plastic joint compound or detergent bucket, use 5 gal. kerosene,
gasoline or other appropriate metal or plastic can with built-in pouring
spout and filler opening.

1.  Insert suction end of vac cleaner hose snugly into the can's pouring
spout.

2.  Insert/install end of 5/8 inch oil removal tube in the can's other
opening.  (I used PVC couplings/fittings of appropriate sizes to adapt
filler opening for the 5/8 inch tube.  I also used a short section of 1½
inch dia. PVC, installed with slight downward slope inside the top of the
can to discharge the oil across the can as far as possible from the
suction/vac opening.  The 1½ inch PVC pipe inside the can also causes the
air being removed from the engine after the siphoning action is broken to
slow down enough to "release" small droplets of oil that may be suspended in
it.)
Insert suction end of this tube into top of dipstick tube.

OIL REMOVAL:

1.  Have engine at or near operating temp.

2. Loosen top of oil filter canister & lift it ½ inch or so to allow oil to
run freely out of canister down into oil pan when vac starts.

3.  Turn vac cleaner ON.

4.  Change filter while oil flows into the receiver.  (I can't get mine
changed before the oil removal is finished.)

5.  When satisfied that oil removal is complete/sufficient, lift end of 5/8
inch tube out of dipstick tube.  (Turn end of tube upward and lift it upward
to aid flow of any oil in the tube into the bucket.)

6.  Turn vac cleaner OFF.

7.  Don't forget to replenish oil in the engine!

8.  Clean up - stow equipment.

I have used this type sucker several times with excellent results.  The
difference between a "troubled" oil change and a very clean and quick oil
change is the strength (resistance to collapse) of the oil evacuation tube.
Collapse of this tube can prevent the flow of anything - air, oil,
ANYTHING - into the bucket and can lead to the bucket's collapse if a "weak"
container is used.

My upgraded, first class sucker uses a metal kerosene can as the oil
receiver, but I have used a joint compound bucket as the oil receiver
several times with equal success.  Because of the permanently enclosed top
and pouring spout, the kerosene can makes dumping the oil much cleaner and
easier, though - never have to touch the oil, and don't have the trouble of
removing the top from a plastic container.

Use 5/8 inch OD plastic tubing with some fabric in the walls to help it
resist collapsing due to suction and heat from the oil.  The clear, limber,
plastic tubing is too weak - collapses easily.

Loosen top of oil filter canister & lift it a half inch or so to allow oil
to run freely out of canister down into oil pan when vac starts.

Using the sucker has several advantages for me.  The typical ones:  not
having to crawl under the car to get to the pan plug, not having to remove
the belly pan 

Re: [MBZ] Oil sucker

[Craig via Mercedes]

On Tue, 07 Feb 2023 18:48:41 -0500 Allan Streib via Mercedes
 wrote:

> Trying to piece together an oil sucker. Do I need a tube that will go
> to the bottom of the pan or would it work if it seals to the top of the
> dipstick tube?

It will work if it seals to the top of the dipstick tube.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Oil sucker

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

If it seals to the dipstick tube it will work. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 7, 2023, at 5:49 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Trying to piece together an oil sucker. Do I need a tube that will go to the 
> bottom of the pan or would it work if it seals to the top of the dipstick 
> tube?
> 
> Allan
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Re: [MBZ] Oil sucker

[G Mann via Mercedes]

Respectfully, the dipstick guide tube does not go to the bottom of the oil
pan.
The dipstick itself does not actually touch the bottom of the oil pan.
You need a semi rigid tube that will insert through the dipstick guide tube
and is long enough to reach the bottom of the oil pan, then trim the bottom
of the tube as a 30 to 45 degree angle so it does not "suck down to the
surface of the pan" which would block suction of the used oil.
I suggest that you look at a piece of aluminum tube. Many ACE hardware
stores have sizes in 36in. lengths. Then, from the same store, look at
their bulk poly hose [choose hose that is rigid enough it does not suck
flat and that is clear, so you can see oil being pumped].
Next, go to Harbor Freight and buy one of their 12V fluid pumps. They are
vane type pumps internally, and will move as much as 300 gallons of fluid
per hr [rating]... Rig up some low voltage wire [irrigation stuff] with
battery clamps so you can clamp to the battery posts, get the right size
nylon fittings to adapt to the 12V pump, enough hose [again, I like clear
poly hose so I can watch what is happening.
Insert the aluminum suck pipe to the bottom of the pan, put the pump exit
pipe in a suitable container, connect the 12V pump, pump the old oil out..
When I'm done, I like to pump a couple of cups of mineral spirits through
the pump to flush out the old oil and keep it ready for next time. Connect
the exit poly hose to the pickup end of the aluminum tube, so it doesn't
leak while in storage... Bobs Your Unkle...
The price of 12V pump has doubled at Harbor Freight, over when I bought my
last one almost 20 years ago, but you can still be in business for less
than $100.. with all the tubing / fittings / wire / and clamps. You should
write it into your will, you won't wear it out in your lifetime, I'm
betting..


On Tue, Feb 7, 2023 at 4:53 PM Craig via Mercedes 
wrote:

> On Tue, 07 Feb 2023 18:48:41 -0500 Allan Streib via Mercedes
>  wrote:
>
> > Trying to piece together an oil sucker. Do I need a tube that will go
> > to the bottom of the pan or would it work if it seals to the top of the
> > dipstick tube?
>
> It will work if it seals to the top of the dipstick tube.
>
>
> Craig
>
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>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Oil sucker

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

You do not need a tube that does all the way to the bottom. You will get all 
the oil out from the guide tube. I use a tube that seals to the top and there 
is not a drop of oil left afterwards. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 7, 2023, at 11:24 PM, G Mann via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Respectfully, the dipstick guide tube does not go to the bottom of the oil
> pan.
> The dipstick itself does not actually touch the bottom of the oil pan.
> You need a semi rigid tube that will insert through the dipstick guide tube
> and is long enough to reach the bottom of the oil pan, then trim the bottom
> of the tube as a 30 to 45 degree angle so it does not "suck down to the
> surface of the pan" which would block suction of the used oil.
> I suggest that you look at a piece of aluminum tube. Many ACE hardware
> stores have sizes in 36in. lengths. Then, from the same store, look at
> their bulk poly hose [choose hose that is rigid enough it does not suck
> flat and that is clear, so you can see oil being pumped].
> Next, go to Harbor Freight and buy one of their 12V fluid pumps. They are
> vane type pumps internally, and will move as much as 300 gallons of fluid
> per hr [rating]... Rig up some low voltage wire [irrigation stuff] with
> battery clamps so you can clamp to the battery posts, get the right size
> nylon fittings to adapt to the 12V pump, enough hose [again, I like clear
> poly hose so I can watch what is happening.
> Insert the aluminum suck pipe to the bottom of the pan, put the pump exit
> pipe in a suitable container, connect the 12V pump, pump the old oil out..
> When I'm done, I like to pump a couple of cups of mineral spirits through
> the pump to flush out the old oil and keep it ready for next time. Connect
> the exit poly hose to the pickup end of the aluminum tube, so it doesn't
> leak while in storage... Bobs Your Unkle...
> The price of 12V pump has doubled at Harbor Freight, over when I bought my
> last one almost 20 years ago, but you can still be in business for less
> than $100.. with all the tubing / fittings / wire / and clamps. You should
> write it into your will, you won't wear it out in your lifetime, I'm
> betting..
> 
> 
>> On Tue, Feb 7, 2023 at 4:53 PM Craig via Mercedes 
>> wrote:
>> 
>> On Tue, 07 Feb 2023 18:48:41 -0500 Allan Streib via Mercedes
>>  wrote:
>> 
>>> Trying to piece together an oil sucker. Do I need a tube that will go
>>> to the bottom of the pan or would it work if it seals to the top of the
>>> dipstick tube?
>> 
>> It will work if it seals to the top of the dipstick tube.
>> 
>> 
>> Craig
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Oil sucker

[G Mann via Mercedes]

Based on your experience, I stand corrected then.
I've used my setup on quite a variety of different engines over the years
and they have all needed a suck tube to the bottom of the pan so I've never
tried just hooking a hose to the top of the guide tube.

On Wed, Feb 8, 2023 at 6:07 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> You do not need a tube that does all the way to the bottom. You will get
> all the oil out from the guide tube. I use a tube that seals to the top and
> there is not a drop of oil left afterwards.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Feb 7, 2023, at 11:24 PM, G Mann via Mercedes 
> wrote:
> >
> > Respectfully, the dipstick guide tube does not go to the bottom of the
> oil
> > pan.
> > The dipstick itself does not actually touch the bottom of the oil pan.
> > You need a semi rigid tube that will insert through the dipstick guide
> tube
> > and is long enough to reach the bottom of the oil pan, then trim the
> bottom
> > of the tube as a 30 to 45 degree angle so it does not "suck down to the
> > surface of the pan" which would block suction of the used oil.
> > I suggest that you look at a piece of aluminum tube. Many ACE hardware
> > stores have sizes in 36in. lengths. Then, from the same store, look at
> > their bulk poly hose [choose hose that is rigid enough it does not suck
> > flat and that is clear, so you can see oil being pumped].
> > Next, go to Harbor Freight and buy one of their 12V fluid pumps. They are
> > vane type pumps internally, and will move as much as 300 gallons of fluid
> > per hr [rating]... Rig up some low voltage wire [irrigation stuff] with
> > battery clamps so you can clamp to the battery posts, get the right size
> > nylon fittings to adapt to the 12V pump, enough hose [again, I like clear
> > poly hose so I can watch what is happening.
> > Insert the aluminum suck pipe to the bottom of the pan, put the pump exit
> > pipe in a suitable container, connect the 12V pump, pump the old oil
> out..
> > When I'm done, I like to pump a couple of cups of mineral spirits through
> > the pump to flush out the old oil and keep it ready for next time.
> Connect
> > the exit poly hose to the pickup end of the aluminum tube, so it doesn't
> > leak while in storage... Bobs Your Unkle...
> > The price of 12V pump has doubled at Harbor Freight, over when I bought
> my
> > last one almost 20 years ago, but you can still be in business for less
> > than $100.. with all the tubing / fittings / wire / and clamps. You
> should
> > write it into your will, you won't wear it out in your lifetime, I'm
> > betting..
> >
> >
> >> On Tue, Feb 7, 2023 at 4:53 PM Craig via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >> On Tue, 07 Feb 2023 18:48:41 -0500 Allan Streib via Mercedes
> >>  wrote:
> >>
> >>> Trying to piece together an oil sucker. Do I need a tube that will go
> >>> to the bottom of the pan or would it work if it seals to the top of the
> >>> dipstick tube?
> >>
> >> It will work if it seals to the top of the dipstick tube.
> >>
> >>
> >> Craig
> >>
> >> ___
> >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >>
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> >>
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> >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >>
> >>
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> >
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> >
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Oil sucker

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

> I've used my setup on quite a variety of different engines over the years
> and they have all needed a suck tube to the bottom of the pan so I've never
> tried just hooking a hose to the top of the guide tube.

Most probably do, but even the MB dealer sucks from the top of the dipstick 
tube.
It's that reliable.  Not, however, on the W114/W115, which pre-dates this 
system.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Oil sucker

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

yeah on the Benzes the tube goes all the way to the bottom of the pan, 
so it will suck out everything.  I have a 3/8" (?? I think) plastic tube 
that fits in tightly, and the other end goes to a barb fitting on a 
refrigerant tank, I drilled a hole in it that a small vac hose fits 
into.  Heat up the engine to get the oil thinned out then turn on the 
vac and go have a beer or do something else.


--FT

On 2/8/23 9:55 AM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:

Based on your experience, I stand corrected then.
I've used my setup on quite a variety of different engines over the years
and they have all needed a suck tube to the bottom of the pan so I've never
tried just hooking a hose to the top of the guide tube.


--
--FT
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Re: [MBZ] Oil sucker

[Allan Streib via Mercedes]

Probably varies by engine, not all are designed for topside oil extraction?

On Wed, Feb 8, 2023, at 09:55, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
> Based on your experience, I stand corrected then.
> I've used my setup on quite a variety of different engines over the years
> and they have all needed a suck tube to the bottom of the pan so I've never
> tried just hooking a hose to the top of the guide tube.
>
> On Wed, Feb 8, 2023 at 6:07 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
>> You do not need a tube that does all the way to the bottom. You will get
>> all the oil out from the guide tube. I use a tube that seals to the top and
>> there is not a drop of oil left afterwards.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> > On Feb 7, 2023, at 11:24 PM, G Mann via Mercedes 
>> wrote:
>> >
>> > Respectfully, the dipstick guide tube does not go to the bottom of the
>> oil
>> > pan.
>> > The dipstick itself does not actually touch the bottom of the oil pan.
>> > You need a semi rigid tube that will insert through the dipstick guide
>> tube
>> > and is long enough to reach the bottom of the oil pan, then trim the
>> bottom
>> > of the tube as a 30 to 45 degree angle so it does not "suck down to the
>> > surface of the pan" which would block suction of the used oil.
>> > I suggest that you look at a piece of aluminum tube. Many ACE hardware
>> > stores have sizes in 36in. lengths. Then, from the same store, look at
>> > their bulk poly hose [choose hose that is rigid enough it does not suck
>> > flat and that is clear, so you can see oil being pumped].
>> > Next, go to Harbor Freight and buy one of their 12V fluid pumps. They are
>> > vane type pumps internally, and will move as much as 300 gallons of fluid
>> > per hr [rating]... Rig up some low voltage wire [irrigation stuff] with
>> > battery clamps so you can clamp to the battery posts, get the right size
>> > nylon fittings to adapt to the 12V pump, enough hose [again, I like clear
>> > poly hose so I can watch what is happening.
>> > Insert the aluminum suck pipe to the bottom of the pan, put the pump exit
>> > pipe in a suitable container, connect the 12V pump, pump the old oil
>> out..
>> > When I'm done, I like to pump a couple of cups of mineral spirits through
>> > the pump to flush out the old oil and keep it ready for next time.
>> Connect
>> > the exit poly hose to the pickup end of the aluminum tube, so it doesn't
>> > leak while in storage... Bobs Your Unkle...
>> > The price of 12V pump has doubled at Harbor Freight, over when I bought
>> my
>> > last one almost 20 years ago, but you can still be in business for less
>> > than $100.. with all the tubing / fittings / wire / and clamps. You
>> should
>> > write it into your will, you won't wear it out in your lifetime, I'm
>> > betting..
>> >
>> >
>> >> On Tue, Feb 7, 2023 at 4:53 PM Craig via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>> >> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> On Tue, 07 Feb 2023 18:48:41 -0500 Allan Streib via Mercedes
>> >>  wrote:
>> >>
>> >>> Trying to piece together an oil sucker. Do I need a tube that will go
>> >>> to the bottom of the pan or would it work if it seals to the top of the
>> >>> dipstick tube?
>> >>
>> >> It will work if it seals to the top of the dipstick tube.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Craig
>> >>
>> >> ___
>> >> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> >>
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>> >>
>> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> >>
>> >>
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Re: [MBZ] Oil sucker

[Randy Bennell via Mercedes]

On 07/02/2023 5:52 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:

On Tue, 07 Feb 2023 18:48:41 -0500 Allan Streib via Mercedes
 wrote:


Trying to piece together an oil sucker. Do I need a tube that will go
to the bottom of the pan or would it work if it seals to the top of the
dipstick tube?

It will work if it seals to the top of the dipstick tube.


Craig

___

But only if the dipstick tube goes to the bottom of the oilpan, which I 
think it does on at least some of the Mercedes engines.


Randy


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Re: [MBZ] Oil sucker

[Randy Bennell via Mercedes]

On 08/02/2023 9:00 AM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes wrote:

I've used my setup on quite a variety of different engines over the years
and they have all needed a suck tube to the bottom of the pan so I've never
tried just hooking a hose to the top of the guide tube.

Most probably do, but even the MB dealer sucks from the top of the dipstick 
tube.
It's that reliable.  Not, however, on the W114/W115, which pre-dates this 
system.

-- Jim


___


But it doesn't much matter on the W115 anyway given you have to deal 
with the old style oil filter from underneath in any event. That is much 
worse than draining the pan.


Randy


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Re: [MBZ] Oil sucker

[OK Don via Mercedes]

I used to think of it (W115 oil filter) as lubrication for my elbow ---

On Wed, Feb 8, 2023 at 10:45 AM Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> On 08/02/2023 9:00 AM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes wrote:
> >> I've used my setup on quite a variety of different engines over the
> years
> >> and they have all needed a suck tube to the bottom of the pan so I've
> never
> >> tried just hooking a hose to the top of the guide tube.
> > Most probably do, but even the MB dealer sucks from the top of the
> dipstick tube.
> > It's that reliable.  Not, however, on the W114/W115, which pre-dates
> this system.
> >
> > -- Jim
> >
> >
> > ___
>
> But it doesn't much matter on the W115 anyway given you have to deal
> with the old style oil filter from underneath in any event. That is much
> worse than draining the pan.
>
> Randy
>
>
> ___
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>
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>

-- 
OK Don

"Quality of life is inversely proportional to the amount of clothing you
are wearing."

"Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
pause and reflect." Mark Twain

“Basic research is what I’m doing when I don’t know what I am doing.”  Wernher
Von Braun

"In science if you know what you are doing you should not be doing it.
In engineering if you do not know what you are doing you should not be
doing it."
-- Richard W. Hamming, The Art of Doing Science and Engineering
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] Oil sucker

[Rick Knoble via Mercedes]

I use this.

https://hftools.com/app56384

I got it on sale for like $100. I stick whichever tube fits to the bottom of 
the dipstick tube, and it sucks out the oil pan completely dry. I've used it on 
a Dodge four cylinder, Taurus V6, and a W210. Pulled the drain plugs when the 
sucker started drawing air, and not a drop of oil came out. On engines such as 
the M112 where the oil filter is on top, you don't have to get under the 
vehicle.


Rick
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Re: [MBZ] Oil sucker

[Randy Bennell via Mercedes]

I always find it difficult to get the filter housing back into place. 
The opening does not allow much room so you have to mostly work by feel. 
If the car was on a hoist, it likely would be an easy task but on the 
ground, I don't find it to be easy. I only do it about once a year so I 
don't get a whole lot of practice.


Randy



On 08/02/2023 10:51 AM, OK Don via Mercedes wrote:

I used to think of it (W115 oil filter) as lubrication for my elbow ---

On Wed, Feb 8, 2023 at 10:45 AM Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


On 08/02/2023 9:00 AM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes wrote:

I've used my setup on quite a variety of different engines over the

years

and they have all needed a suck tube to the bottom of the pan so I've

never

tried just hooking a hose to the top of the guide tube.

Most probably do, but even the MB dealer sucks from the top of the

dipstick tube.

It's that reliable.  Not, however, on the W114/W115, which pre-dates

this system.

-- Jim


___

But it doesn't much matter on the W115 anyway given you have to deal
with the old style oil filter from underneath in any event. That is much
worse than draining the pan.

Randy





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Re: [MBZ] Oil sucker

[Randy Bennell via Mercedes]

Your link does not work for me.

https://www.princessauto.com/en/30-litre-air-operated-oil-changer/product/PA0008886095

We have one like that for the inboard-outboard boats.

Randy




On 08/02/2023 10:53 AM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes wrote:

I use this.

https://hftools.com/app56384

I got it on sale for like $100. I stick whichever tube fits to the bottom of 
the dipstick tube, and it sucks out the oil pan completely dry. I've used it on 
a Dodge four cylinder, Taurus V6, and a W210. Pulled the drain plugs when the 
sucker started drawing air, and not a drop of oil came out. On engines such as 
the M112 where the oil filter is on top, you don't have to get under the 
vehicle.


Rick
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Re: [MBZ] Oil sucker

[Allan Streib via Mercedes]

They have the manual model.

https://www.harborfreight.com/23-gallon-manual-fluid-extractor-62643.html

I was looking at it yesterday.


On Wed, Feb 8, 2023, at 12:26, Rick Knoble via Mercedes wrote:
> Apparently it is discontinued.
> This one is air operated.
>
> https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/lubricants-adhesives/fluid-collection/pumps-extractors/pneumatic-air-operated-fluid-extractor-57056.html
>
> Mine is like the screenshot. Manual.
>
> Rick
>
> From: mercedes@okiebenz.com
> Sent: February 8, 2023 11:05 AM
> To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
> Reply-to: mercedes@okiebenz.com
> Cc: rbenn...@bennell.ca
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil sucker
>
> Your link does not work for me.
>
> https://www.princessauto.com/en/30-litre-air-operated-oil-changer/product/PA0008886095
>
> We have one like that for the inboard-outboard boats.
>
> Randy
>
>
>
>
> On 08/02/2023 10:53 AM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes wrote:
>> I use this.
>>
>> https://hftools.com/app56384
>>
>> I got it on sale for like $100. I stick whichever tube fits to the bottom of 
>> the dipstick tube, and it sucks out the oil pan completely dry. I've used it 
>> on a Dodge four cylinder, Taurus V6, and a W210. Pulled the drain plugs when 
>> the sucker started drawing air, and not a drop of oil came out. On engines 
>> such as the M112 where the oil filter is on top, you don't have to get under 
>> the vehicle.
>>
>>
>> Rick
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>
>
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>
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>
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>
> Attachments:
> * Screenshot_20230208-112028.png

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Re: [MBZ] Oil sucker

[dan penoff.com via Mercedes]

This is what you need:

<https://www.harborfreight.com/6-1-4-quarter-gallon-oil-extractor-46149.html>
[46149_zzz_500.jpg]
6.25 gallon Oil 
Extractor<https://www.harborfreight.com/6-1-4-quarter-gallon-oil-extractor-46149.html>
harborfreight.com<https://www.harborfreight.com/6-1-4-quarter-gallon-oil-extractor-46149.html>

I have one at each house. Works great, takes minimal space, holds 6 gallons of 
fluid. Not cheap, but if you play the coupon game you can get a good deal on 
it. Air requirements are minimal, too, my little 2 gallon Campbell-Hausefield 
“sausage” compressor at the FL house has no trouble getting it to pull a vacuum 
in short order.

-D

On Feb 8, 2023, at 12:37 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes  
wrote:

They have the manual model.

https://www.harborfreight.com/23-gallon-manual-fluid-extractor-62643.html

I was looking at it yesterday.


On Wed, Feb 8, 2023, at 12:26, Rick Knoble via Mercedes wrote:
Apparently it is discontinued.
This one is air operated.

https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/lubricants-adhesives/fluid-collection/pumps-extractors/pneumatic-air-operated-fluid-extractor-57056.html

Mine is like the screenshot. Manual.

Rick

From: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: February 8, 2023 11:05 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Reply-to: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: rbenn...@bennell.ca
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil sucker

Your link does not work for me.

https://www.princessauto.com/en/30-litre-air-operated-oil-changer/product/PA0008886095

We have one like that for the inboard-outboard boats.

Randy




On 08/02/2023 10:53 AM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes wrote:
I use this.

https://hftools.com/app56384

I got it on sale for like $100. I stick whichever tube fits to the bottom of 
the dipstick tube, and it sucks out the oil pan completely dry. I've used it on 
a Dodge four cylinder, Taurus V6, and a W210. Pulled the drain plugs when the 
sucker started drawing air, and not a drop of oil came out. On engines such as 
the M112 where the oil filter is on top, you don't have to get under the 
vehicle.


Rick
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Attachments:
* Screenshot_20230208-112028.png

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Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker Fiasco

[Rich Thomas]

I use that rigid poly tubing, seems to hold up fairly well with "warm" 
oil (I have not tried it with HOT, duh!!!).  But hey, it accomplished 
the task, right?


--R

B Dike wrote:


Hot oil causes drain line to collapse.  Shop Vac hose
collapses.  Oil sprays into ShopVac canister.  Oil in
shop vac hose leaks all over garage floor afterward.  


BUT

Not a single solitary drop of oil remains in oil sump.
Around here we call this success.

Cheers,

Bruce

Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'




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Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker Fiasco

[Loren Faeth]

I use a 3 foot length of 1/4 inch OD copper tubing, shoved into 1/4 ID PP 
hose.  I like the solid thunk when the copper hits the bottom of the 
pan.  It is a little harder to shove down the dipstick, but it does the job 
nicely.  Neither has collapsed, and I vacuum out HOT oil.


At 06:24 PM 11/5/2005, you wrote:

I use that rigid poly tubing, seems to hold up fairly well with "warm"
oil (I have not tried it with HOT, duh!!!).  But hey, it accomplished
the task, right?

--R

B Dike wrote:

>Hot oil causes drain line to collapse.  Shop Vac hose
>collapses.  Oil sprays into ShopVac canister.  Oil in
>shop vac hose leaks all over garage floor afterward.
>
>BUT
>
>Not a single solitary drop of oil remains in oil sump.
>Around here we call this success.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Bruce
>
>Bruce
>82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
>85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
>75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
>77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'
>
>
>
>
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>
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>
>
>


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Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker Fiasco

[Rich Thomas]

An interesting innovation, but I think that would drive the cost up to 
maybe $5, which might be worth it to get hot oil (though you might need 
a metal container to catch it in.


I understand too that the inserted tube does not really need to go down 
into the drain pan as the dipstick tube ends down there, so you really 
only need to get it in the wider part at the top, and seal it for the 
vac to work.  That is about 5/8" ID I think.


--R

Loren Faeth wrote:

I use a 3 foot length of 1/4 inch OD copper tubing, shoved into 1/4 ID PP 
hose.  I like the solid thunk when the copper hits the bottom of the 
pan.  It is a little harder to shove down the dipstick, but it does the job 
nicely.  Neither has collapsed, and I vacuum out HOT oil.


At 06:24 PM 11/5/2005, you wrote:
 


I use that rigid poly tubing, seems to hold up fairly well with "warm"
oil (I have not tried it with HOT, duh!!!).  But hey, it accomplished
the task, right?

--R

B Dike wrote:

   


Hot oil causes drain line to collapse.  Shop Vac hose
collapses.  Oil sprays into ShopVac canister.  Oil in
shop vac hose leaks all over garage floor afterward.

BUT

Not a single solitary drop of oil remains in oil sump.
Around here we call this success.

Cheers,

Bruce

Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'




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Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker Fiasco

[B Dike]

I modified my setup and bought some 3/4" OD rubber coolant tubing and made an 
adapter to fit it into the dipstick tube.  No problem with hot oil.  Still 
getting oil spray inside the ShopVac but working well otherwise.
 
Bruce

Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
An interesting innovation, but I think that would drive the cost up to 
maybe $5, which might be worth it to get hot oil (though you might need 
a metal container to catch it in.

I understand too that the inserted tube does not really need to go down 
into the drain pan as the dipstick tube ends down there, so you really 
only need to get it in the wider part at the top, and seal it for the 
vac to work. That is about 5/8" ID I think.

--R

Loren Faeth wrote:

>I use a 3 foot length of 1/4 inch OD copper tubing, shoved into 1/4 ID PP 
>hose. I like the solid thunk when the copper hits the bottom of the 
>pan. It is a little harder to shove down the dipstick, but it does the job 
>nicely. Neither has collapsed, and I vacuum out HOT oil.
>
>At 06:24 PM 11/5/2005, you wrote:
> 
>
>>I use that rigid poly tubing, seems to hold up fairly well with "warm"
>>oil (I have not tried it with HOT, duh!!!). But hey, it accomplished
>>the task, right?
>>
>>--R
>>
>>B Dike wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>>>Hot oil causes drain line to collapse. Shop Vac hose
>>>collapses. Oil sprays into ShopVac canister. Oil in
>>>shop vac hose leaks all over garage floor afterward.
>>>
>>>BUT
>>>
>>>Not a single solitary drop of oil remains in oil sump.
>>>Around here we call this success.
>>>
>>>Cheers,
>>>
>>>Bruce
>>>
>>>Bruce
>>>82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
>>>85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
>>>75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
>>>77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>>
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>>
>
>
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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
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77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] I need a car & I found a car for $299.
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LT Don wrote:
> 
> Just donate it to the non-profit where I work and take the tax write-off.
> 

But these days, unless the organization keeps the vehicle for internal use,
the

Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker Fiasco

[Rich Thomas]

Your design appears to be in need of some revision re: the oil in the 
vac.  Send me a pic and I will do some engineering consultation from 
afar using all this high-tech technology.  Perhaps we will come up with 
V1.3 of the Oil Sucker, whilst using cast-off materials to keep its cost 
firmly in the $2 range, affordable to almost anyone worldwide!


--R

B Dike wrote:


I modified my setup and bought some 3/4" OD rubber coolant tubing and made an 
adapter to fit it into the dipstick tube.  No problem with hot oil.  Still getting 
oil spray inside the ShopVac but working well otherwise.

Bruce

Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
An interesting innovation, but I think that would drive the cost up to 
maybe $5, which might be worth it to get hot oil (though you might need 
a metal container to catch it in.


I understand too that the inserted tube does not really need to go down 
into the drain pan as the dipstick tube ends down there, so you really 
only need to get it in the wider part at the top, and seal it for the 
vac to work. That is about 5/8" ID I think.


--R

Loren Faeth wrote:

 

I use a 3 foot length of 1/4 inch OD copper tubing, shoved into 1/4 ID PP 
hose. I like the solid thunk when the copper hits the bottom of the 
pan. It is a little harder to shove down the dipstick, but it does the job 
nicely. Neither has collapsed, and I vacuum out HOT oil.


At 06:24 PM 11/5/2005, you wrote:


   


I use that rigid poly tubing, seems to hold up fairly well with "warm"
oil (I have not tried it with HOT, duh!!!). But hey, it accomplished
the task, right?

--R

B Dike wrote:



 


Hot oil causes drain line to collapse. Shop Vac hose
collapses. Oil sprays into ShopVac canister. Oil in
shop vac hose leaks all over garage floor afterward.

BUT

Not a single solitary drop of oil remains in oil sump.
Around here we call this success.

Cheers,

Bruce

Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'




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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker Fiasco

[Hans Neureiter]

I use an old metal gas can, the round type with the domed top, took the
spring loaded cap off the spout and screwed at the opposite side a 1/2"
compression fitting into the metal.
My 1 gal shopvac hose fits snug inside the pouring spout and a 1/2" black PE
tubing goes from the tubing fitting to the dipstick. To seal the 1/2" OD
tubing to the dipstick, I use a short piece of 5/8" OD Tygon tubing slipped
over the PE which seals inside the dipstick flare and also lets me know when
all the oil is out. Never had a problem with the PE tubing to collapse or
any carry-over to the shop vac. The oil is out in 2 to 3 minutes and than I
let it run for another 10 to 15 to clean up droplets in the oil pan.
All parts are scrounged up from surplus, so a cost estimate is irrelevant.

 On 11/7/05, Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Your design appears to be in need of some revision re: the oil in the
> vac. Send me a pic and I will do some engineering consultation from
> afar using all this high-tech technology. Perhaps we will come up with
> V1.3 of the Oil Sucker, whilst using cast-off materials to keep its cost
> firmly in the $2 range, affordable to almost anyone worldwide!
>
> --R
>
> B Dike wrote:
>
> >I modified my setup and bought some 3/4" OD rubber coolant tubing and
> made an adapter to fit it into the dipstick tube. No problem with hot oil.
> Still getting oil spray inside the ShopVac but working well otherwise.
> >
> >Bruce
> >
> >Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >An interesting innovation, but I think that would drive the cost up to
> >maybe $5, which might be worth it to get hot oil (though you might need
> >a metal container to catch it in.
> >
> >I understand too that the inserted tube does not really need to go down
> >into the drain pan as the dipstick tube ends down there, so you really
> >only need to get it in the wider part at the top, and seal it for the
> >vac to work. That is about 5/8" ID I think.
> >
> >--R
> >
> >Loren Faeth wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >>I use a 3 foot length of 1/4 inch OD copper tubing, shoved into 1/4 ID
> PP
> >>hose. I like the solid thunk when the copper hits the bottom of the
> >>pan. It is a little harder to shove down the dipstick, but it does the
> job
> >>nicely. Neither has collapsed, and I vacuum out HOT oil.
> >>
> >>At 06:24 PM 11/5/2005, you wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>I use that rigid poly tubing, seems to hold up fairly well with "warm"
> >>>oil (I have not tried it with HOT, duh!!!). But hey, it accomplished
> >>>the task, right?
> >>>
> >>>--R
> >>>
> >>>B Dike wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> Hot oil causes drain line to collapse. Shop Vac hose
> collapses. Oil sprays into ShopVac canister. Oil in
> shop vac hose leaks all over garage floor afterward.
> 
> BUT
> 
> Not a single solitary drop of oil remains in oil sump.
> Around here we call this success.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Bruce
> 
> Bruce
> 82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
> 85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
> 75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
> 77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> >Bruce
> >82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
> >85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
> >75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
> >77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'
> >
> >-
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> >
> >
> >
> 

Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker mods.

[ANGELO GIAIMO]

I found changing the oil when too hot w/my topsider caused the larger hose
(the one with the clamp) to collapse, so I changed a few things

Made a solid Aluminum replacement for the hose connector end that fits into
the Topsider (tm) tank.  Taped the center with a 1/4 pipe thread and
installed a ball valve.  Attached a piece of 3/8 hose to that.  At the
other end, used a few fittings to convert the 3/8 hose to 1/4 hose.   All
hose (tubing) that I used was high temp clear tygon tubing, so I could see
the oil flow.   All the fittings and hose were bought a Home Depot.   If
anyone has access to a lathe and wants a dwg of of the insert, let me know.
I'll see if I can dig it out.

Since none of these hoses are collapsable, I can change the oil when the
engine is hot, and flows freely.

Angelo Giaimo/Fishkill/IBM @ IBMUS
Internet: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
(845)894-4296 (tie 533); fax: 892-6235 (tie 532);
2070 Rt. 52; Hopewell Junction, N.Y. 12533

Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker Instructions

[Kaleb C. Striplin, work]

http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730 FSBO Supervisor

- Original Message - 
From: "LarryT" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 11:52 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Oil Sucker Instructions


> Howdy -
> Can't figure out how to search the archives and I must have lost the email
> with the instructions but I recall someone having instructions for 
> building
> an inexpensive Oil Sucker made from Home Depot parts.
>
> Does anyone have that info?  If so, I'd really appreciate it.
>
> Thanks!!
>
> Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
> www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
> Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
> PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
> Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
> .
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker Instructions

[Rich Thomas]

Here's my version

http://www.constructivity.net/oilsucker.htm

--R

LarryT wrote:
> Howdy -
> Can't figure out how to search the archives and I must have lost the email 
> with the instructions but I recall someone having instructions for building 
> an inexpensive Oil Sucker made from Home Depot parts.
>
> Does anyone have that info?  If so, I'd really appreciate it.
>
> Thanks!!
>
> Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
> www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
> Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
> PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
> Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
> .
>
>
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
>
>   

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Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker Instructions

[LarryT]

Thanks Rich!!

Also thanks to Wilton & Kaleb!

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
.

- Original Message - 
From: "Rich Thomas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 4:26 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker Instructions


> Here's my version
>
> http://www.constructivity.net/oilsucker.htm
>
> --R
>
> LarryT wrote:
>> Howdy -
>> Can't figure out how to search the archives and I must have lost the 
>> email
>> with the instructions but I recall someone having instructions for 
>> building
>> an inexpensive Oil Sucker made from Home Depot parts.
>>
>> Does anyone have that info?  If so, I'd really appreciate it.
>>
>> Thanks!!
>>
>> Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
>> www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
>> Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
>> PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
>> Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
>> .
>>
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>>
>>
>
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>
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>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.25/1018 - Release Date: 
> 9/19/2007 3:59 PM
> 


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Re: [MBZ] Oil sucker instructions

[OK Don]

I finally broke down and built Wilton's oil sucker - the "new" 300D
2.5 has the pan under the engine, and I didn't want to mess with it to
change the oil. Went to Ace and bought 5 feet of 5/8" OD, 3/8" ID
fabric reinforced tubing (now $1.59 a foot), drilled a hole in the top
(behind the handle) of a 5 gal. plastic fuel can with a counter sink
bit. The bit was 5/8" dia. - worked great for the tubing. The tubing
fit the dip stick tube (inside) just right. Wrapped a bit of black
tape around the end of an old (OLD) tank vacuum hose so it fit the
pouring spout connection, and went to work. The plastic fuel tank
collapsed right away, but the oil also started flowing, so I let it
come. I stopped sucking every once in a awhile to check the level.
When I had about a gallon out (lucky guess), I poured it into a gallon
bottle, and went back to sucking - getting the last almost gallon out
of the engine. Seems that even the drastically collapsed fuel tank
holds at least a gallon, so this rig will work until I find a better
tank to use.

On Thu, Sep 20, 2007 at 12:42 PM, wilton strickland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> HOMEMADE /$2 TOPSIDER/OIL SUCKER
>
>  (This method of oil removal by suction works only if oil dipstick tube goes
>  to lowest point in oil pan, as in a Mercedes.  Oil below bottom of dipstick
>  tube can't be removed by this method without sticking an oil evacuation tube
>  down the dipstick tube to bottom of the oil pan.  Mercedes engines since the
>  60's have been built with dipstick tubes to lowest point in the pan,
>  specifically, to expedite removal of oil by suction.  I don't know if
>  dipstick tubes in other engines go to bottom of the pan.)
>
>  EQUIPMENT/PARTS:
>
>  1.  Vacuum cleaner (shop or domestic unit) with ITS hose
>
>  2.  5 gal plastic joint compound or detergent bucket (or appropriate size
>  container strong enough not to collapse under vacuum cleaner suction)
>
>  3.  ~ 5 feet of 5/8 inch OD plastic tubing with some fabric in the walls to
>  help it resist collapsing due to suction and heat from the oil
>
>  CONSTRUCTION:
>
>  1.  Near the outer edge of the bucket's plastic top, cut a small hole
>  slightly smaller than the 5/8 inch tube.  Insert end of 5/8 inch tube snugly
>  into this hole - NOT to the bottom of the bucket - only an inch or so into
>  the top - enough to stay securely in place.  (If the discharge end of the
>  evacuation tube is below the oil level in the bucket, much bubbling and
>  turbulence will occur in the oil when most of the oil has been removed from
>  the engine, and the sucker sucks air.  The turbulence may cause oil to be
>  spattered near and drawn into the vac hose.)
>
>  2.  Near the opposite edge of the bucket's top from the 5/8 inch tube, cut a
>  hole slightly smaller than the suction end of the vac cleaner hose.  Insert
>  suction end of the vac cleaner hose snugly into this hole - NOT way down in
>  the bucket - just past the top enough to stay securely in place.
>
>  3.  Insert other end of 5/8 inch OD plastic tube snugly INTO TOP inch and a
>  half or so of engine oil dipstick tube.  (If you feel more comfortable by
>  wrapping a bit of tape around the plastic tube to increase its size and make
>  it fit more snugly INSIDE the dipstick tube, please do so.)
>
>  4.  Attach other end of vac hose to the vac cleaner.
>
>  UP-GRADED, FIRST CLASS UNIT:
>
>  In lieu of plastic joint compound or detergent bucket, use 5 gal. kerosene,
>  gasoline or other appropriate metal or plastic can with built-in pouring
>  spout and filler opening.
>
>  1.  Insert suction end of vac cleaner hose snugly into the can's pouring
>  spout.
>
>  2.  Insert/install end of 5/8 inch oil removal tube in the can's other
>  opening.  (I used PVC couplings/fittings of appropriate sizes to adapt
>  filler opening for the 5/8 inch tube.  I also used a short section of 1½
>  inch dia. PVC, installed with slight downward slope inside the top of the
>  can to discharge the oil across the can as far as possible from the
>  suction/vac opening.  The 1½ inch PVC pipe inside the can also causes the
>  air being removed from the engine after the siphoning action is broken to
>  slow down enough to "release" small droplets of oil that may be suspended in
>  it.)
>  Insert suction end of this tube into top of dipstick tube.
>
>  OIL REMOVAL:
>
>  1.  Have engine at or near operating temp.
>
>  2. Loosen top of oil filter canister & lift it ½ inch or so to allow oil to
>  run freely out of canister down into oil pan when vac starts.
>
>  3.  Turn vac cleaner ON.
>
>  4.  Change filter while oil flows into the receiver.  (I can't get mine
>  changed before the oil removal is finished.)
>
>  5.  When satisfied that oil removal is complete/sufficient, lift end of 5/8
>  inch tube out of dipstick tube.  (Turn end of tube upward and lift it upward
>  to aid flow of any oil in the tube into the bucket.)
>
>  6.  Turn vac cleaner OFF.
>
>  7.  Don't forget to replenish oil in the engine!
>
>  8

Re: [MBZ] Oil sucker instructions

[Rich Thomas]

YOU DID IT WRONG

I see no mention of a beer involved in the process.

--R

OK Don wrote:
> I finally broke down and built Wilton's oil sucker - the "new" 300D
> 2.5 has the pan under the engine, and I didn't want to mess with it to
> change the oil. Went to Ace and bought 5 feet of 5/8" OD, 3/8" ID
> fabric reinforced tubing (now $1.59 a foot), drilled a hole in the top
> (behind the handle) of a 5 gal. plastic fuel can with a counter sink
> bit. The bit was 5/8" dia. - worked great for the tubing. The tubing
> fit the dip stick tube (inside) just right. Wrapped a bit of black
> tape around the end of an old (OLD) tank vacuum hose so it fit the
> pouring spout connection, and went to work. The plastic fuel tank
> collapsed right away, but the oil also started flowing, so I let it
> come. I stopped sucking every once in a awhile to check the level.
> When I had about a gallon out (lucky guess), I poured it into a gallon
> bottle, and went back to sucking - getting the last almost gallon out
> of the engine. Seems that even the drastically collapsed fuel tank
> holds at least a gallon, so this rig will work until I find a better
> tank to use.
>
> On Thu, Sep 20, 2007 at 12:42 PM, wilton strickland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>   
>> HOMEMADE /$2 TOPSIDER/OIL SUCKER
>>
>>  (This method of oil removal by suction works only if oil dipstick tube goes
>>  to lowest point in oil pan, as in a Mercedes.  Oil below bottom of dipstick
>>  tube can't be removed by this method without sticking an oil evacuation tube
>>  down the dipstick tube to bottom of the oil pan.  Mercedes engines since the
>>  60's have been built with dipstick tubes to lowest point in the pan,
>>  specifically, to expedite removal of oil by suction.  I don't know if
>>  dipstick tubes in other engines go to bottom of the pan.)
>>
>>  EQUIPMENT/PARTS:
>>
>>  1.  Vacuum cleaner (shop or domestic unit) with ITS hose
>>
>>  2.  5 gal plastic joint compound or detergent bucket (or appropriate size
>>  container strong enough not to collapse under vacuum cleaner suction)
>>
>>  3.  ~ 5 feet of 5/8 inch OD plastic tubing with some fabric in the walls to
>>  help it resist collapsing due to suction and heat from the oil
>>
>>  CONSTRUCTION:
>>
>>  1.  Near the outer edge of the bucket's plastic top, cut a small hole
>>  slightly smaller than the 5/8 inch tube.  Insert end of 5/8 inch tube snugly
>>  into this hole - NOT to the bottom of the bucket - only an inch or so into
>>  the top - enough to stay securely in place.  (If the discharge end of the
>>  evacuation tube is below the oil level in the bucket, much bubbling and
>>  turbulence will occur in the oil when most of the oil has been removed from
>>  the engine, and the sucker sucks air.  The turbulence may cause oil to be
>>  spattered near and drawn into the vac hose.)
>>
>>  2.  Near the opposite edge of the bucket's top from the 5/8 inch tube, cut a
>>  hole slightly smaller than the suction end of the vac cleaner hose.  Insert
>>  suction end of the vac cleaner hose snugly into this hole - NOT way down in
>>  the bucket - just past the top enough to stay securely in place.
>>
>>  3.  Insert other end of 5/8 inch OD plastic tube snugly INTO TOP inch and a
>>  half or so of engine oil dipstick tube.  (If you feel more comfortable by
>>  wrapping a bit of tape around the plastic tube to increase its size and make
>>  it fit more snugly INSIDE the dipstick tube, please do so.)
>>
>>  4.  Attach other end of vac hose to the vac cleaner.
>>
>>  UP-GRADED, FIRST CLASS UNIT:
>>
>>  In lieu of plastic joint compound or detergent bucket, use 5 gal. kerosene,
>>  gasoline or other appropriate metal or plastic can with built-in pouring
>>  spout and filler opening.
>>
>>  1.  Insert suction end of vac cleaner hose snugly into the can's pouring
>>  spout.
>>
>>  2.  Insert/install end of 5/8 inch oil removal tube in the can's other
>>  opening.  (I used PVC couplings/fittings of appropriate sizes to adapt
>>  filler opening for the 5/8 inch tube.  I also used a short section of 1½
>>  inch dia. PVC, installed with slight downward slope inside the top of the
>>  can to discharge the oil across the can as far as possible from the
>>  suction/vac opening.  The 1½ inch PVC pipe inside the can also causes the
>>  air being removed from the engine after the siphoning action is broken to
>>  slow down enough to "release" small droplets of oil that may be suspended in
>>  it.)
>>  Insert suction end of this tube into top of dipstick tube.
>>
>>  OIL REMOVAL:
>>
>>  1.  Have engine at or near operating temp.
>>
>>  2. Loosen top of oil filter canister & lift it ½ inch or so to allow oil to
>>  run freely out of canister down into oil pan when vac starts.
>>
>>  3.  Turn vac cleaner ON.
>>
>>  4.  Change filter while oil flows into the receiver.  (I can't get mine
>>  changed before the oil removal is finished.)
>>
>>  5.  When satisfied that oil removal is complete/sufficient, lift end of 5/8
>>  inch tube out

Re: [MBZ] Oil sucker instructions

[OK Don]

Well - I didn't write up the ENTIRE process --
I did buy some Warsteiner premium dunkle on the way back from Ace ---
The project went WAY over Wilton's $2.00 budget!

On Sat, May 3, 2008 at 5:47 PM, Rich Thomas
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> YOU DID IT WRONG
>
>  I see no mention of a beer involved in the process.
>
>  --R

-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics."
-Benjamin Disraeli and/or Mark Twain
'90 300D (Rattled),  '92 300D (Saber),  ' '81 240D (Gramps), '97 Ply
Grand Voyager (Vincent van-go)

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Re: [MBZ] Oil sucker instructions

[Rich Thomas]

Well, you need to be more specific for the next poor sod who tries the 
method, and finds something lacking in the experience.

The sucker is great for power steering pumps, brake reservoirs, some 
trannies, and differentials if you have the proper size tubing.  I use 
that rigid poly stuff, it does not collapse.

--R

OK Don wrote:
> Well - I didn't write up the ENTIRE process --
> I did buy some Warsteiner premium dunkle on the way back from Ace ---
> The project went WAY over Wilton's $2.00 budget!
>
> On Sat, May 3, 2008 at 5:47 PM, Rich Thomas
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>   
>> YOU DID IT WRONG
>>
>>  I see no mention of a beer involved in the process.
>>
>>  --R
>> 
>
>   
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Re: [MBZ] Oil sucker instructions

[Luther - laptop]

Old helium party tanks work well..

Luther

On Sat, 03 May 2008 16:45:10 -0600, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I finally broke down and built Wilton's oil sucker - the "new" 300D
> 2.5 has the pan under the engine, and I didn't want to mess with it to
> change the oil. Went to Ace and bought 5 feet of 5/8" OD, 3/8" ID
> fabric reinforced tubing (now $1.59 a foot), drilled a hole in the top
> (behind the handle) of a 5 gal. plastic fuel can with a counter sink
> bit. The bit was 5/8" dia. - worked great for the tubing. The tubing
> fit the dip stick tube (inside) just right. Wrapped a bit of black
> tape around the end of an old (OLD) tank vacuum hose so it fit the
> pouring spout connection, and went to work. The plastic fuel tank
> collapsed right away, but the oil also started flowing, so I let it
> come. I stopped sucking every once in a awhile to check the level.
> When I had about a gallon out (lucky guess), I poured it into a gallon
> bottle, and went back to sucking - getting the last almost gallon out
> of the engine. Seems that even the drastically collapsed fuel tank
> holds at least a gallon, so this rig will work until I find a better
> tank to use.
>
>



-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
'82 300CD (170 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine

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Re: [MBZ] Oil sucker instructions

[Jim Cathey]

> Seems that even the drastically collapsed fuel tank
> holds at least a gallon, so this rig will work until I find a better
> tank to use.

I had the same problem, then I found a blue kerosene can, metal,
that doesn't collapse.  You can see a bit of it here in the
background:

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/cwagon4.html

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Oil sucker instructions

[Peter T . Arnold]

Also great for evacuting a toilet before removing it.


On Sat, 03 May 2008 17:54:53 -0500, you wrote:

>Well, you need to be more specific for the next poor sod who tries the 
--

Regards,

Peter T. Arnold

2007 HHR, 2.4L/Auto, LT2, 20Kmi, No problems!
1987 300SDL  286 KMI  Now lives with Dave Walton, Cleveland Ohio
1995 F-250 PowerChoke  199Kmi
1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen
Wife has a Cruizer, 89 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that
is!


>method, and finds something lacking in the experience.
>
>The sucker is great for power steering pumps, brake reservoirs, some 
>trannies, and differentials if you have the proper size tubing.  I use 
>that rigid poly stuff, it does not collapse.
>
>--R
>
>OK Don wrote:
>> Well - I didn't write up the ENTIRE process --
>> I did buy some Warsteiner premium dunkle on the way back from Ace ---
>> The project went WAY over Wilton's $2.00 budget!
>>
>> On Sat, May 3, 2008 at 5:47 PM, Rich Thomas
>> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>   
>>> YOU DID IT WRONG
>>>
>>>  I see no mention of a beer involved in the process.
>>>
>>>  --R
>>> 
>>
>>   
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[MBZ] Oil Sucker for Tranny Juice

[ts]

Car is a 1979 240D automatic, 123 chassis.  Want to see if any one has used 
a topsider to suck out old tranny fluid.  Do I still need to rotate engine 
and remove drain plug?
This job will include changing out filter unit as well.  Any stories or 
hints you could share please?


Regards Tom Scordato 

Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker for Tranny Juice

[Rich Thomas]

I used the $2 sucker to get the fluid out of my old Blazer (700R4) as 
the fill tube has a straight shot to the bottom of the pan.  Cleaned out 
all but a little bit.  I don't think you can do that with the 123 
tranny, I vaguely recall trying and I don't think the suck hose will go 
down very far.


--R

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Car is a 1979 240D automatic, 123 chassis.  Want to see if any one has used 
a topsider to suck out old tranny fluid.  Do I still need to rotate engine 
and remove drain plug?
This job will include changing out filter unit as well.  Any stories or 
hints you could share please?


Regards Tom Scordato 




  

Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker for Tranny Juice

[Anthony Galioto]

I used an old washing machine  hose over the dip stick tube to  remove the
excess fluid, good fit.  It worked very good because the tube goes down to
the pan.  I don't think you will drain the converter this way though.  In
addition you should change the filter.  I was a little worried that the
vacumn might disturb some small parts in the tranny.
Anthony

On 11/1/06, Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


I used the $2 sucker to get the fluid out of my old Blazer (700R4) as
the fill tube has a straight shot to the bottom of the pan.  Cleaned out
all but a little bit.  I don't think you can do that with the 123
tranny, I vaguely recall trying and I don't think the suck hose will go
down very far.

--R

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Car is a 1979 240D automatic, 123 chassis.  Want to see if any one has
used
> a topsider to suck out old tranny fluid.  Do I still need to rotate
engine
> and remove drain plug?
> This job will include changing out filter unit as well.  Any stories or
> hints you could share please?
>
> Regards Tom Scordato
>
>
>
>


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--
Anthony

Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker for Tranny Juice

[Redghost]

I used the sucker in the e300d with no trouble.  Also suck it out of 
the manual trans in Gump.  Do remove and replace the filter on AT if 
you are going to drain the TC.  I did not bother when just changing out 
the fluid without filter.



On Nov 1, 2006, at 4:35 PM, Anthony Galioto wrote:

I used an old washing machine  hose over the dip stick tube to  remove 
the
excess fluid, good fit.  It worked very good because the tube goes 
down to
the pan.  I don't think you will drain the converter this way though.  
In

addition you should change the filter.  I was a little worried that the
vacumn might disturb some small parts in the tranny.
Anthony

On 11/1/06, Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


I used the $2 sucker to get the fluid out of my old Blazer (700R4) as
the fill tube has a straight shot to the bottom of the pan.  Cleaned 
out

all but a little bit.  I don't think you can do that with the 123
tranny, I vaguely recall trying and I don't think the suck hose will 
go

down very far.

--R

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Car is a 1979 240D automatic, 123 chassis.  Want to see if any one 
has

used

a topsider to suck out old tranny fluid.  Do I still need to rotate

engine

and remove drain plug?
This job will include changing out filter unit as well.  Any stories 
or

hints you could share please?

Regards Tom Scordato







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--
Anthony
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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker for Tranny Juice

[ts]

Thanks Redghost ak Anthony!/Tom
- Original Message - 
From: "Redghost" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 1:42 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker for Tranny Juice


I used the sucker in the e300d with no trouble.  Also suck it out of 
the manual trans in Gump.  Do remove and replace the filter on AT if 
you are going to drain the TC.  I did not bother when just changing out 
the fluid without filter.



On Nov 1, 2006, at 4:35 PM, Anthony Galioto wrote:

I used an old washing machine  hose over the dip stick tube to  remove 
the
excess fluid, good fit.  It worked very good because the tube goes 
down to
the pan.  I don't think you will drain the converter this way though.  
In

addition you should change the filter.  I was a little worried that the
vacumn might disturb some small parts in the tranny.
Anthony

On 11/1/06, Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


I used the $2 sucker to get the fluid out of my old Blazer (700R4) as
the fill tube has a straight shot to the bottom of the pan.  Cleaned 
out

all but a little bit.  I don't think you can do that with the 123
tranny, I vaguely recall trying and I don't think the suck hose will 
go

down very far.

--R

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Car is a 1979 240D automatic, 123 chassis.  Want to see if any one 
has

used

a topsider to suck out old tranny fluid.  Do I still need to rotate

engine

and remove drain plug?
This job will include changing out filter unit as well.  Any stories 
or

hints you could share please?

Regards Tom Scordato







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--
Anthony
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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker for Tranny Juice

[Rich Thomas]

That's a good idea, I did not think the tube goes all the way to the 
bottom of the pan though (or there was something in the way).  Next time 
I take it off I'll have to check.  On the GM tranny, the tube stops 
before the bottom, but it points there, and the suck tube can slide all 
the way to the bottom.


--R

Anthony Galioto wrote:

I used an old washing machine  hose over the dip stick tube to  remove the
excess fluid, good fit.  It worked very good because the tube goes down to
the pan.  I don't think you will drain the converter this way though.  In
addition you should change the filter.  I was a little worried that the
vacumn might disturb some small parts in the tranny.
Anthony

On 11/1/06, Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  

I used the $2 sucker to get the fluid out of my old Blazer (700R4) as
the fill tube has a straight shot to the bottom of the pan.  Cleaned out
all but a little bit.  I don't think you can do that with the 123
tranny, I vaguely recall trying and I don't think the suck hose will go
down very far.

--R

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Car is a 1979 240D automatic, 123 chassis.  Want to see if any one has
  

used


a topsider to suck out old tranny fluid.  Do I still need to rotate
  

engine


and remove drain plug?
This job will include changing out filter unit as well.  Any stories or
hints you could share please?

Regards Tom Scordato




  

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Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker for Tranny Juice

[Hans Neureiter]

Why not disconnecting the return line at the cooler and hooking up the
sucker there? Still won't drain the converter.

On 11/2/06, Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


That's a good idea, I did not think the tube goes all the way to the
bottom of the pan though (or there was something in the way).  Next time
I take it off I'll have to check.  On the GM tranny, the tube stops
before the bottom, but it points there, and the suck tube can slide all
the way to the bottom.

--R

Anthony Galioto wrote:
> I used an old washing machine  hose over the dip stick tube to  remove
the
> excess fluid, good fit.  It worked very good because the tube goes down
to
> the pan.  I don't think you will drain the converter this way
though.  In
> addition you should change the filter.  I was a little worried that the
> vacumn might disturb some small parts in the tranny.
> Anthony
>
> On 11/1/06, Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> I used the $2 sucker to get the fluid out of my old Blazer (700R4) as
>> the fill tube has a straight shot to the bottom of the pan.  Cleaned
out
>> all but a little bit.  I don't think you can do that with the 123
>> tranny, I vaguely recall trying and I don't think the suck hose will go
>> down very far.
>>
>> --R
>>
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>>
>>> Car is a 1979 240D automatic, 123 chassis.  Want to see if any one has
>>>
>> used
>>
>>> a topsider to suck out old tranny fluid.  Do I still need to rotate
>>>
>> engine
>>
>>> and remove drain plug?
>>> This job will include changing out filter unit as well.  Any stories
or
>>> hints you could share please?
>>>
>>> Regards Tom Scordato
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
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--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D

Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker for Tranny Juice

[ts]

I guess if I have to get under the 123 chassis to do the converter, and the 
tranny filter I might as well pull the bango fill tube.  Problem was last 
time I did this on my 1977 300D I did not seal the filler tube right and it 
leaked real bad and I had to go back and correct. Operator error


Regards Tom
- Original Message - 
From: "Hans Neureiter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 10:04 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker for Tranny Juice



Why not disconnecting the return line at the cooler and hooking up the
sucker there? Still won't drain the converter.

On 11/2/06, Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


That's a good idea, I did not think the tube goes all the way to the
bottom of the pan though (or there was something in the way).  Next time
I take it off I'll have to check.  On the GM tranny, the tube stops
before the bottom, but it points there, and the suck tube can slide all
the way to the bottom.

--R

Anthony Galioto wrote:
> I used an old washing machine  hose over the dip stick tube to  remove
the
> excess fluid, good fit.  It worked very good because the tube goes down
to
> the pan.  I don't think you will drain the converter this way
though.  In
> addition you should change the filter.  I was a little worried that the
> vacumn might disturb some small parts in the tranny.
> Anthony
>
> On 11/1/06, Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> I used the $2 sucker to get the fluid out of my old Blazer (700R4) as
>> the fill tube has a straight shot to the bottom of the pan.  Cleaned
out
>> all but a little bit.  I don't think you can do that with the 123
>> tranny, I vaguely recall trying and I don't think the suck hose will 
>> go

>> down very far.
>>
>> --R
>>
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>>
>>> Car is a 1979 240D automatic, 123 chassis.  Want to see if any one 
>>> has

>>>
>> used
>>
>>> a topsider to suck out old tranny fluid.  Do I still need to rotate
>>>
>> engine
>>
>>> and remove drain plug?
>>> This job will include changing out filter unit as well.  Any stories
or
>>> hints you could share please?
>>>
>>> Regards Tom Scordato
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
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--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker for Tranny Juice

[kevin kraly]

I might as well pull the bango fill tube.  Problem was last
time I did this on my 1977 300D I did not seal the filler tube right and it
leaked real bad and I had to go back and correct. Operator error


I hate that stupid filler tube design with the washers that need to be 
assembled the CORRECT way in order not to leak!  I also experienced this on 
a '77 300D.  Dennis T had it sitting around as a parts car, and I bought it 
for parts for my '78.  It had a marginal tranny anyway, and it leaked in the 
filler tube area.  Trans-X and some control rod adjustments were enough to 
save it, so we flogged it for a couple months before I sold it along with 
the '78.


Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon looking at an '83 300SD for $1200 

Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker for Tranny Juice

[ts]

Kevin feel you pan.  I think I ended up using a slight coat of lock tight to 
solve the problem on that fill tube on my 1977.  Cannot just torque the *&^% 
out of it to stop it as I recall/Tom
- Original Message - 
From: "kevin kraly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 6:04 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker for Tranny Juice



I might as well pull the bango fill tube.  Problem was last
time I did this on my 1977 300D I did not seal the filler tube right and 
it

leaked real bad and I had to go back and correct. Operator error


I hate that stupid filler tube design with the washers that need to be
assembled the CORRECT way in order not to leak!  I also experienced this 
on
a '77 300D.  Dennis T had it sitting around as a parts car, and I bought 
it
for parts for my '78.  It had a marginal tranny anyway, and it leaked in 
the

filler tube area.  Trans-X and some control rod adjustments were enough to
save it, so we flogged it for a couple months before I sold it along with
the '78.

Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon looking at an '83 300SD for $1200


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Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker for Tranny Juice

[Rich Thomas]

Same problem when I did mine, even assembled it correctly (or the same 
way it came apart anyway) and it still leaked a bit.  Drained it, put 
some gasket sealer on the washers and reassembled and that has held tight.


Oh impure mechanical not-approved-by-Benz hacking, you offend Wotan et 
al. but it works, so there.


--R

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Kevin feel you pan.  I think I ended up using a slight coat of lock tight to 
solve the problem on that fill tube on my 1977.  Cannot just torque the *&^% 
out of it to stop it as I recall/Tom
- Original Message - 
From: "kevin kraly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 6:04 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker for Tranny Juice


  

I might as well pull the bango fill tube.  Problem was last
time I did this on my 1977 300D I did not seal the filler tube right and 
it

leaked real bad and I had to go back and correct. Operator error