[MBZ] Rust and E-brake cable is stuck on 2005 Mercedes-Benz e-class E 500 4MATIC Wagon 4D, $1, 800

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

but might not be a bad deal as these are fairly rare and are worth quite 
a bit.  E-brake should come loose easy enough


https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3712833368971129

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Re: [MBZ] Rust not TOO bad -- 1968 Mercedes-Benz 250s gas,$8,500

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

+ $20K in touch up costs and you have a restored vintage Mercedes, worth
$20k in 10 years...

On Thu, Jul 20, 2023 at 10:48 AM Floyd Thursby via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Interior looks mostly nice, could be a rolling resto
>
> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1275095913366682
>
> --
> --FT
>
>
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[MBZ] Rust not TOO bad -- 1968 Mercedes-Benz 250s gas,$8,500

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

Interior looks mostly nice, could be a rolling resto

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1275095913366682

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Re: [MBZ] Rust green/green 1973 Mercedes-Benz 400se Sedan 4D, $2, 500

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

Triple green.  Someone needs this badly.  If it runs and drives and stops
it's a steal, assuming average corrosion...

On Wed, Mar 8, 2023 at 10:12 AM Bob Rentfro via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> That’s odd puh-tee-ner. Oddly inconsistent.
> Virginia is quite a drive, Kaleb.
>
> AZBob
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Mar 8, 2023, at 6:53 AM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > Oh wow
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >> On Mar 8, 2023, at 8:34 AM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Interior looks pretty nice, other than patina the body looks OK
> >>
> >> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/883418196213536
> >>
> >> --
> >> --FT
> >>
> >>
> >> ___
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> >>
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Re: [MBZ] Rust green/green 1973 Mercedes-Benz 400se Sedan 4D, $2, 500

[Bob Rentfro via Mercedes]

That’s odd puh-tee-ner. Oddly inconsistent. 
Virginia is quite a drive, Kaleb. 

AZBob

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 8, 2023, at 6:53 AM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Oh wow 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Mar 8, 2023, at 8:34 AM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Interior looks pretty nice, other than patina the body looks OK
>> 
>> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/883418196213536
>> 
>> -- 
>> --FT
>> 
>> 
>> ___
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Re: [MBZ] Rust green/green 1973 Mercedes-Benz 400se Sedan 4D, $2, 500

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

Oh wow 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 8, 2023, at 8:34 AM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Interior looks pretty nice, other than patina the body looks OK
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/883418196213536
> 
> -- 
> --FT
> 
> 
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[MBZ] Rust green/green 1973 Mercedes-Benz 400se Sedan 4D,$2,500

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

Interior looks pretty nice, other than patina the body looks OK

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/883418196213536

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[MBZ] Rust, patina, whatever you want to call it. 1971 Mercedes-Benz 220d, $1, 234

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

A fun beater until it collapses in a pile of iron oxide, although the 
seats look nice


It has been driven longer distance than probably recommend. OM615 diesel 
engine, fires up everytime 4 speed manual


https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1134115430587566

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Re: [MBZ] Rust pics of the 108

[Randy Bennell via Mercedes]

A car for Dmitri?

Randy


On 16/09/2022 2:47 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:

Yes, it’s that damn nice interior that makes the whole deal a shame.

Sent from my iPhone


On Sep 16, 2022, at 2:22 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
 wrote:

Yet...  to counter this, it is so clean inside that it will be a visceral
pleasure every time he opens the door and slides behind the wheel.


On Fri, Sep 16, 2022 at 3:20 PM dan penoff.com via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

There are so many reasons why you should avoid this car. They’re in every
picture you posted. Even if the drivetrain was good, the rusted stuff would
cause so much grief any time you had to work on it you would be patching
stuff up left and right just to make it work.

-D


On Sep 16, 2022, at 3:11 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

This seems like maybe it’s worth $2k, get it running and either flip it

to somebody else for a little profit, or just drive it until it falls
apart. I really would like to get a 4.5 at some point. I have flirted with
108s over the years, have been close to deals on decent ones, and had
several as parts cars or major projects but never a driver. I even had a
109 4.5 once.

Sent from my iPhone


On Sep 16, 2022, at 2:05 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

He should drive it around town as a moving billboard for his classic

car

business.


On Fri, Sep 16, 2022 at 2:55 PM dan penoff.com via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

There is so much work there it would cost far beyond the restored

value to

fix all that rust. Things like door bottoms, for example, would have

to be

fabricated. Not only that, when rust is that extensive, the potential

for

getting it all and cleaning up the existing metal is near impossible.

This is NOT a good restoration candidate. Not by any sense of the

word. It

is, however, a perfect Okie Acres Back 40 car.

-D


On Sep 16, 2022, at 2:48 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

Yeah, not all that great.  This is the car you drive around for a

couple

years while saving money to send it to the body shop.




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Re: [MBZ] Rust pics of the 108

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

Yes, it’s that damn nice interior that makes the whole deal a shame. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 16, 2022, at 2:22 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Yet...  to counter this, it is so clean inside that it will be a visceral
> pleasure every time he opens the door and slides behind the wheel.
> 
>> On Fri, Sep 16, 2022 at 3:20 PM dan penoff.com via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> There are so many reasons why you should avoid this car. They’re in every
>> picture you posted. Even if the drivetrain was good, the rusted stuff would
>> cause so much grief any time you had to work on it you would be patching
>> stuff up left and right just to make it work.
>> 
>> -D
>> 
>>> On Sep 16, 2022, at 3:11 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> This seems like maybe it’s worth $2k, get it running and either flip it
>> to somebody else for a little profit, or just drive it until it falls
>> apart. I really would like to get a 4.5 at some point. I have flirted with
>> 108s over the years, have been close to deals on decent ones, and had
>> several as parts cars or major projects but never a driver. I even had a
>> 109 4.5 once.
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
 On Sep 16, 2022, at 2:05 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
 
 He should drive it around town as a moving billboard for his classic
>> car
 business.
 
> On Fri, Sep 16, 2022 at 2:55 PM dan penoff.com via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
> There is so much work there it would cost far beyond the restored
>> value to
> fix all that rust. Things like door bottoms, for example, would have
>> to be
> fabricated. Not only that, when rust is that extensive, the potential
>> for
> getting it all and cleaning up the existing metal is near impossible.
> 
> This is NOT a good restoration candidate. Not by any sense of the
>> word. It
> is, however, a perfect Okie Acres Back 40 car.
> 
> -D
> 
>> On Sep 16, 2022, at 2:48 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Yeah, not all that great.  This is the car you drive around for a
>> couple
>> years while saving money to send it to the body shop.
>> 
>> On Fri, Sep 16, 2022 at 2:44 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> Got some out of the seller. Seems a lot worse than I was hopping for.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> 
>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>> 
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
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>>> 
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>> 
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> 
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
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Re: [MBZ] Rust pics of the 108

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

Unlikely.

On Fri, Sep 16, 2022 at 3:23 PM dan penoff.com via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> And when he slams the door shut (if it latches) and half of it falls off
> in particles of rust.
>
> -D
>
> On Sep 16, 2022, at 3:21 PM, Andrew Strasfogel  > wrote:
>
> Yet...  to counter this, it is so clean inside that it will be a visceral
> pleasure every time he opens the door and slides behind the wheel.
>
> On Fri, Sep 16, 2022 at 3:20 PM dan penoff.com via
> Mercedes mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>> wrote:
> There are so many reasons why you should avoid this car. They’re in every
> picture you posted. Even if the drivetrain was good, the rusted stuff would
> cause so much grief any time you had to work on it you would be patching
> stuff up left and right just to make it work.
>
> -D
>
> > On Sep 16, 2022, at 3:11 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > This seems like maybe it’s worth $2k, get it running and either flip it
> to somebody else for a little profit, or just drive it until it falls
> apart. I really would like to get a 4.5 at some point. I have flirted with
> 108s over the years, have been close to deals on decent ones, and had
> several as parts cars or major projects but never a driver. I even had a
> 109 4.5 once.
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >> On Sep 16, 2022, at 2:05 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> He should drive it around town as a moving billboard for his classic
> car
> >> business.
> >>
> >>> On Fri, Sep 16, 2022 at 2:55 PM dan penoff.com
> via Mercedes <
> >>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> There is so much work there it would cost far beyond the restored
> value to
> >>> fix all that rust. Things like door bottoms, for example, would have
> to be
> >>> fabricated. Not only that, when rust is that extensive, the potential
> for
> >>> getting it all and cleaning up the existing metal is near impossible.
> >>>
> >>> This is NOT a good restoration candidate. Not by any sense of the
> word. It
> >>> is, however, a perfect Okie Acres Back 40 car.
> >>>
> >>> -D
> >>>
>  On Sep 16, 2022, at 2:48 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes <
> >>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
>  Yeah, not all that great.  This is the car you drive around for a
> couple
>  years while saving money to send it to the body shop.
> 
>  On Fri, Sep 16, 2022 at 2:44 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>  mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
> > Got some out of the seller. Seems a lot worse than I was hopping for.
> >
> >
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> >
>  ___
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> 
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> 
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> ___
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> >>>
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> >>>
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Re: [MBZ] Rust pics of the 108

[dan penoff.com via Mercedes]

And when he slams the door shut (if it latches) and half of it falls off in 
particles of rust.

-D

On Sep 16, 2022, at 3:21 PM, Andrew Strasfogel 
mailto:astrasfo...@gmail.com>> wrote:

Yet...  to counter this, it is so clean inside that it will be a visceral 
pleasure every time he opens the door and slides behind the wheel.

On Fri, Sep 16, 2022 at 3:20 PM dan penoff.com via Mercedes 
mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>> wrote:
There are so many reasons why you should avoid this car. They’re in every 
picture you posted. Even if the drivetrain was good, the rusted stuff would 
cause so much grief any time you had to work on it you would be patching stuff 
up left and right just to make it work.

-D

> On Sep 16, 2022, at 3:11 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
> mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>> wrote:
>
> This seems like maybe it’s worth $2k, get it running and either flip it to 
> somebody else for a little profit, or just drive it until it falls apart. I 
> really would like to get a 4.5 at some point. I have flirted with 108s over 
> the years, have been close to deals on decent ones, and had several as parts 
> cars or major projects but never a driver. I even had a 109 4.5 once.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Sep 16, 2022, at 2:05 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
>> mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>> wrote:
>>
>> He should drive it around town as a moving billboard for his classic car
>> business.
>>
>>> On Fri, Sep 16, 2022 at 2:55 PM dan penoff.com via 
>>> Mercedes <
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> There is so much work there it would cost far beyond the restored value to
>>> fix all that rust. Things like door bottoms, for example, would have to be
>>> fabricated. Not only that, when rust is that extensive, the potential for
>>> getting it all and cleaning up the existing metal is near impossible.
>>>
>>> This is NOT a good restoration candidate. Not by any sense of the word. It
>>> is, however, a perfect Okie Acres Back 40 car.
>>>
>>> -D
>>>
 On Sep 16, 2022, at 2:48 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes <
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

 Yeah, not all that great.  This is the car you drive around for a couple
 years while saving money to send it to the body shop.

 On Fri, Sep 16, 2022 at 2:44 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
 mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Got some out of the seller. Seems a lot worse than I was hopping for.
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>>>
>>>
>>> ___
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>>>
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>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>>
>>>
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>
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Re: [MBZ] Rust pics of the 108

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

Yet...  to counter this, it is so clean inside that it will be a visceral
pleasure every time he opens the door and slides behind the wheel.

On Fri, Sep 16, 2022 at 3:20 PM dan penoff.com via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> There are so many reasons why you should avoid this car. They’re in every
> picture you posted. Even if the drivetrain was good, the rusted stuff would
> cause so much grief any time you had to work on it you would be patching
> stuff up left and right just to make it work.
>
> -D
>
> > On Sep 16, 2022, at 3:11 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > This seems like maybe it’s worth $2k, get it running and either flip it
> to somebody else for a little profit, or just drive it until it falls
> apart. I really would like to get a 4.5 at some point. I have flirted with
> 108s over the years, have been close to deals on decent ones, and had
> several as parts cars or major projects but never a driver. I even had a
> 109 4.5 once.
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >> On Sep 16, 2022, at 2:05 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> He should drive it around town as a moving billboard for his classic
> car
> >> business.
> >>
> >>> On Fri, Sep 16, 2022 at 2:55 PM dan penoff.com via Mercedes <
> >>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> There is so much work there it would cost far beyond the restored
> value to
> >>> fix all that rust. Things like door bottoms, for example, would have
> to be
> >>> fabricated. Not only that, when rust is that extensive, the potential
> for
> >>> getting it all and cleaning up the existing metal is near impossible.
> >>>
> >>> This is NOT a good restoration candidate. Not by any sense of the
> word. It
> >>> is, however, a perfect Okie Acres Back 40 car.
> >>>
> >>> -D
> >>>
>  On Sep 16, 2022, at 2:48 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes <
> >>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
>  Yeah, not all that great.  This is the car you drive around for a
> couple
>  years while saving money to send it to the body shop.
> 
>  On Fri, Sep 16, 2022 at 2:44 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>  mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
> > Got some out of the seller. Seems a lot worse than I was hopping for.
> >
> >
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
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> >
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> >>>
> >>>
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> >>>
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> >>>
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Re: [MBZ] Rust pics of the 108

[dan penoff.com via Mercedes]

There are so many reasons why you should avoid this car. They’re in every 
picture you posted. Even if the drivetrain was good, the rusted stuff would 
cause so much grief any time you had to work on it you would be patching stuff 
up left and right just to make it work.

-D

> On Sep 16, 2022, at 3:11 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> This seems like maybe it’s worth $2k, get it running and either flip it to 
> somebody else for a little profit, or just drive it until it falls apart. I 
> really would like to get a 4.5 at some point. I have flirted with 108s over 
> the years, have been close to deals on decent ones, and had several as parts 
> cars or major projects but never a driver. I even had a 109 4.5 once. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Sep 16, 2022, at 2:05 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> He should drive it around town as a moving billboard for his classic car
>> business.
>> 
>>> On Fri, Sep 16, 2022 at 2:55 PM dan penoff.com via Mercedes <
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> There is so much work there it would cost far beyond the restored value to
>>> fix all that rust. Things like door bottoms, for example, would have to be
>>> fabricated. Not only that, when rust is that extensive, the potential for
>>> getting it all and cleaning up the existing metal is near impossible.
>>> 
>>> This is NOT a good restoration candidate. Not by any sense of the word. It
>>> is, however, a perfect Okie Acres Back 40 car.
>>> 
>>> -D
>>> 
 On Sep 16, 2022, at 2:48 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes <
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
 
 Yeah, not all that great.  This is the car you drive around for a couple
 years while saving money to send it to the body shop.
 
 On Fri, Sep 16, 2022 at 2:44 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
 mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
 
> Got some out of the seller. Seems a lot worse than I was hopping for.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> 
> 
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>>> 
>>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Rust pics of the 108

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

This seems like maybe it’s worth $2k, get it running and either flip it to 
somebody else for a little profit, or just drive it until it falls apart. I 
really would like to get a 4.5 at some point. I have flirted with 108s over the 
years, have been close to deals on decent ones, and had several as parts cars 
or major projects but never a driver. I even had a 109 4.5 once. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 16, 2022, at 2:05 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> He should drive it around town as a moving billboard for his classic car
> business.
> 
>> On Fri, Sep 16, 2022 at 2:55 PM dan penoff.com via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> There is so much work there it would cost far beyond the restored value to
>> fix all that rust. Things like door bottoms, for example, would have to be
>> fabricated. Not only that, when rust is that extensive, the potential for
>> getting it all and cleaning up the existing metal is near impossible.
>> 
>> This is NOT a good restoration candidate. Not by any sense of the word. It
>> is, however, a perfect Okie Acres Back 40 car.
>> 
>> -D
>> 
>>> On Sep 16, 2022, at 2:48 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Yeah, not all that great.  This is the car you drive around for a couple
>>> years while saving money to send it to the body shop.
>>> 
>>> On Fri, Sep 16, 2022 at 2:44 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>> 
 Got some out of the seller. Seems a lot worse than I was hopping for.
 
 
 
 Sent from my iPhone___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
>>> ___
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>>> 
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>>> 
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>> 
>> 
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Rust pics of the 108

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

He should drive it around town as a moving billboard for his classic car
business.

On Fri, Sep 16, 2022 at 2:55 PM dan penoff.com via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> There is so much work there it would cost far beyond the restored value to
> fix all that rust. Things like door bottoms, for example, would have to be
> fabricated. Not only that, when rust is that extensive, the potential for
> getting it all and cleaning up the existing metal is near impossible.
>
> This is NOT a good restoration candidate. Not by any sense of the word. It
> is, however, a perfect Okie Acres Back 40 car.
>
> -D
>
> > On Sep 16, 2022, at 2:48 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > Yeah, not all that great.  This is the car you drive around for a couple
> > years while saving money to send it to the body shop.
> >
> > On Fri, Sep 16, 2022 at 2:44 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
> > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Got some out of the seller. Seems a lot worse than I was hopping for.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone___
> >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >>
> >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >>
> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >>
> >>
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> >
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> >
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Rust pics of the 108

[dan penoff.com via Mercedes]

There is so much work there it would cost far beyond the restored value to fix 
all that rust. Things like door bottoms, for example, would have to be 
fabricated. Not only that, when rust is that extensive, the potential for 
getting it all and cleaning up the existing metal is near impossible.

This is NOT a good restoration candidate. Not by any sense of the word. It is, 
however, a perfect Okie Acres Back 40 car.

-D

> On Sep 16, 2022, at 2:48 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Yeah, not all that great.  This is the car you drive around for a couple
> years while saving money to send it to the body shop.
> 
> On Fri, Sep 16, 2022 at 2:44 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
>> Got some out of the seller. Seems a lot worse than I was hopping for.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
>> 
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> 
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Re: [MBZ] Rust pics of the 108

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

Yeah, not all that great.  This is the car you drive around for a couple
years while saving money to send it to the body shop.

On Fri, Sep 16, 2022 at 2:44 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Got some out of the seller. Seems a lot worse than I was hopping for.
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] Rust was:Re: W124 rear subframe

[Clay Monroe via Mercedes]

Dry side and a wet side.  The local SEA DOT will try to get trucks out to spray 
deicer on the main roads if they have a few days warning.  Mild saline solution 
of some sort that keeps mostly exposed bridge deck from icing over if temps 
drop to 26f.  Wet side tends to warm and wash away the snow and rarely gets 
that cold.

Dry side has a rain shadow on the east side of the Cascades.  Wind and cold 
seep in from over the  border of Canada.  What minimal moisture can get out of 
mountain passes will dribble on central WA.  Spokane area is in the foothills 
of the mountains making up the Idaho panhandle.  Moisture backs up and dumps.

clay


> On Dec 22, 2019, at 10:19 AM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> That sucks. I thought that parts of WA are considered desert.
> 
> 
> Rick
> 
> 
> 
>   Original Message  
> 
> 
> 
> From: jim.cathey...@gmail.com
> Sent: December 22, 2019 11:57 AM
> To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
> Cc: rickkno...@hotmail.com
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] ***SPAM*** Re: W124 rear subframe R pictures
> 
> 
>> Pacific Northwest is optimal
> 
> Eastern WA now uses salt.  It was the death of the Frankenheap.
> 
> -- Jim

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[MBZ] Rust was:Re: W124 rear subframe

[Rick Knoble via Mercedes]

That sucks. I thought that parts of WA are considered desert.


Rick



  Original Message  



From: jim.cathey...@gmail.com
Sent: December 22, 2019 11:57 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: rickkno...@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] ***SPAM*** Re: W124 rear subframe R pictures


> Pacific Northwest is optimal

Eastern WA now uses salt.  It was the death of the Frankenheap.

-- Jim
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Re: [MBZ] Rust free

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

99k miles...

Unlikely.

On Thu, Apr 4, 2019, 11:20 PM Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> You should get that and flip it to the FB morons
>
> --FT
> Sent from iPhone
>
> > On Apr 4, 2019, at 10:22 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > 1978 MERCEDES 300D
> >
> >
> https://wichita.craigslist.org/cto/d/wichita-1978-mercedes-300d/6858309572.html
> >
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
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> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> >
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Re: [MBZ] Rust free

[Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes]

You should get that and flip it to the FB morons

--FT
Sent from iPhone

> On Apr 4, 2019, at 10:22 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> 1978 MERCEDES 300D
> 
> https://wichita.craigslist.org/cto/d/wichita-1978-mercedes-300d/6858309572.html
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
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[MBZ] Rust free

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

1978 MERCEDES 300D

https://wichita.craigslist.org/cto/d/wichita-1978-mercedes-300d/6858309572.html


Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] Rust Bucket For Mitch or Michael

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

15 years ago we had a list member about 30 miles south of there. 
Can't remember his name though. 
Sounds like they drove it into the ground until they didn't think it was 
worthwhile to replace a fuel line. 
Mitch. 
> On October 13, 2018 at 8:48 AM Rick Knoble via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-300SD/142972763361
> 
> Rick
> ___
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[MBZ] Rust Bucket For Mitch or Michael

[Rick Knoble via Mercedes]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-300SD/142972763361

Rick
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Re: [MBZ] rust free new york 300td ac blows ice cold all winter

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

What'd you pay for it?

On Sat, Feb 21, 2015 at 9:11 PM, Rick Hawkins Java macj...@aol.com wrote:

 it's not all that nice, but since you lust after the 1985 ones so you need
 to buy it

 the engine seems to run well considering it was out of fuel

 we added a gal of diesel and i pumped the primer but didn't bleed it and
 we got it started with a decent battery (ours) at about 34 F

 it seemed smooth

 shifter was hard to shift but trans seemed ok

 i never went over about 30 mph with no tag and the busted sway bar

 i think i'll keep the euro lights and the seats seem nice  and firm

 xx rick



 On Feb 21, 2015, at 5:38 PM, Andrew Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 Diamond blue/blue.  Same as mine.  Very pretty :)

 On Sat, Feb 21, 2015 at 3:39 PM, Rick Hawkins Java macj...@aol.com
 wrote:

 it's like new

 240k or so




 Image 9



 Image 8



 Image 7



 Image 6



 Image 5



 Image 4



 Image 3



 Image 2



 Image 1



 Image





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[MBZ] rust free new york 300td ac blows ice cold all winter

[Rick Hawkins Java via Mercedes]

it's not all that nice, but since you lust after the 1985 ones so you need to 
buy it

the engine seems to run well considering it was out of fuel

we added a gal of diesel and i pumped the primer but didn't bleed it and we got 
it started with a decent battery (ours) at about 34 F

it seemed smooth

shifter was hard to shift but trans seemed ok

i never went over about 30 mph with no tag and the busted sway bar

i think i'll keep the euro lights and the seats seem nice  and firm

xx rick



On Feb 21, 2015, at 5:38 PM, Andrew Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote:

 Diamond blue/blue.  Same as mine.  Very pretty :)
 
 On Sat, Feb 21, 2015 at 3:39 PM, Rick Hawkins Java macj...@aol.com wrote:
 it's like new
 
 240k or so
 
 
 
 
 
 Image 9
  
 
 
 Image 8
  
 
 
 Image 7
  
 
 
 Image 6
  
 
 
 Image 5
  
 
 
 Image 4
  
 
 
 Image 3
  
 
 
 Image 2
  
 
 
 Image 1
  
 
 
 Image
  
 
 

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[MBZ] Rust repair for good health

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

This is only sort of off topic...

My Jetta has rusty rockers, last year I welded a bunch of new metal from old 
computers (thicker and easier to weld than microwave ovens) into the driver's 
side. That seems to be holding up decently well while the passenger side is now 
really bad. I finally got around to working on it last Sunday. I'd been kind of 
avoiding it since its a dirty, horrible job.
Fortunately since last year I bought a cheap Harbor Freight face shield which 
makes a HUGE difference. Not having all that crap flying into your face makes 
the work much easier. Still its a dirty, tiring job lying on my back under the 
car working above my head. Needless to say I didn't have a hard time getting to 
sleep Sunday night.

You know what? Monday I felt great... My back was less sore, my strained 
rotator cuff didn't hurt like it has been hurting, even the burn where hot 
welding slag dripped onto the inside of my elbow didn't bother me.

So apparently a dose of hard work was just what I needed.

-Curt
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Re: [MBZ] Rust repair for good health

[OK Don via Mercedes]

The lesson here? If you don't WEAR our face SHIELD, your BACK will hurt, a
rotator cuff WILL hurt, and the burns will hurt WORSE.

On Thu, Oct 9, 2014 at 1:36 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 This is only sort of off topic...

 snip.
 Fortunately since last year I bought a cheap Harbor Freight face shield
 which makes a HUGE difference. Not having all that crap flying into your
 face makes the work much easier. snip



 Monday I felt great... My back was less sore, my strained rotator cuff
 didn't hurt like it has been hurting, even the burn where hot welding slag
 dripped onto the inside of my elbow didn't bother me.

 snip
 -Curt




-- 
OK Don

NSA: The only branch of government that actually listens to US citizens!

There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves.

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] Rust repair for good health

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

I usually find that the pain doesn't kick in until the SECOND day after I
insult my body by doing manual labor or playing squash.

On Thu, Oct 9, 2014 at 4:22 PM, OK Don via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:

 The lesson here? If you don't WEAR our face SHIELD, your BACK will hurt, a
 rotator cuff WILL hurt, and the burns will hurt WORSE.

 On Thu, Oct 9, 2014 at 1:36 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

  This is only sort of off topic...
 
  snip.
  Fortunately since last year I bought a cheap Harbor Freight face shield
  which makes a HUGE difference. Not having all that crap flying into your
  face makes the work much easier. snip



  Monday I felt great... My back was less sore, my strained rotator cuff
  didn't hurt like it has been hurting, even the burn where hot welding
 slag
  dripped onto the inside of my elbow didn't bother me.
 
  snip
  -Curt
 
 


 --
 OK Don

 NSA: The only branch of government that actually listens to US citizens!

 There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
 learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
 for themselves.

 WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
 2013 F150, 18 mpg
 2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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[MBZ] Rust in peace: Haunting pictures of the Belgian 'car graveyard'

[Rich Thomas]

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2256470/Haunting-pictures-Belgian-car-graveyard-US-soldiers-hid-beautiful-vintage-motors-WWII.html#ixzz2GvnxapSS

--R

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[MBZ] Rust analysis/correct heading and spelling

[RELNGSON]

 ...Oxidation never sleeps.  Unless you've done lab analysis periodically, 
 I don't see how you could have any confidence in that oil.
 
 Max Dillon..
 
 
I take your point but I've already described the storage conditions and for 
this car oil anaylsis would be a waste of money. Have you ever toured an 
auto museum? I have visited the Mercedes and Porsche Museums, plus a museum of 
sorts at the Maserati factory, Blackhawk in California and Harrah's Reno 
and later what it became when the City of Reno took it over in a new location. 
Plus the Schlumpf Bugatti Museum in Mulhouse before it was seized. I'd be 
willing to bet that none of the cars on display ever get their oil changed 
unless they are going to be started and driven.

As to this silly comment from Wowen:

 
 ...No worries. It doesn't go anywhere. Like most porches, it is attached 
 to the house. Woger was just yankin your chain
 
 
Would you like to hear the history of this car, where it's been and what it 
has done in the last 28 years? Hardly a garage queen up until the last few 
years.

RLE
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Re: [MBZ] Rust analysis/correct heading and spelling

[Dimitri Seretakis]

Why was the schlumpf museum seized? 

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 27, 2012, at 10:11 PM, relng...@aol.com wrote:

...Oxidation never sleeps.  Unless you've done lab analysis periodically, 
I don't see how you could have any confidence in that oil.

Max Dillon..


I take your point but I've already described the storage conditions and for 
this car oil anaylsis would be a waste of money. Have you ever toured an 
auto museum? I have visited the Mercedes and Porsche Museums, plus a museum of 
sorts at the Maserati factory, Blackhawk in California and Harrah's Reno 
and later what it became when the City of Reno took it over in a new location. 
Plus the Schlumpf Bugatti Museum in Mulhouse before it was seized. I'd be 
willing to bet that none of the cars on display ever get their oil changed 
unless they are going to be started and driven.

As to this silly comment from Wowen:


...No worries. It doesn't go anywhere. Like most porches, it is attached 
to the house. Woger was just yankin your chain


Would you like to hear the history of this car, where it's been and what it 
has done in the last 28 years? Hardly a garage queen up until the last few 
years.

RLE
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Re: [MBZ] Rust analysis/correct heading and spelling

[Rick Knoble]

On Oct 27, 2012, at 9:11 PM, relng...@aol.com wrote:

 Would you like to hear the history of this car, where it's been and what it 
 has done in the last 28 years? Hardly a garage queen up until the last few 
 years.


Yes. I would. 

Rick
Sent from my iPhone

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[MBZ] Rust repair while waiting for parts

[Dimitri Seretakis]

While waiting for the glow plugs and primer pump to arrive I decided to tackle 
some relatively minor rust repair. 
The first involved cutting the rust out of the side of the hood on the 
passenger side. It was spot welded to an inner support. I drilled out the spot 
welds, then cut it away from the hood. The hood skin is now a bit floppy as it 
is no longer fully supported. New piece has been fabricated. Waiting for naval 
jelly to do it's magic on the heavily pitted support before I weld new piece 
on. 
I then turned my attention to rear driver side jackpoint. It has started to 
rust under the undercoating around the tube. Ground away the heavy layers of 
flaking rust, encountered one small perforation in the process. Again, waiting 
for naval jelly to clean up any remaining rust before hitting the perforation 
with my MIG welder.

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Michael Canfield]

Sure does.  My 83 has yet to see an Upstate winter.  I really hate to even
drive it this winter but I currently have no choice.  The brine they are
putting on the roads around here is terrible.  I live right by Watkins
Glen, NY, home to Cargill, makers of the brine, so they test formulas on
local roads.  I have noticed a serious uprise in the amount of rust on cars
since they started with the stuff a few years ago.  Newer cars, with cheap
recycled parts are terrible to work on after just a couple of winters.  The
bodies don't rot so bad thanks to modern corrosion inhibitors but the
fasteners are frozen to the point of breaking or stripping the heads.

Mike
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Dieselhead]

Use the mopar rust eater/penetrating oil with graphite.
I just did the struts on a 12 yr old dodge and the bolts were rusted 
tight, with way more thread through the nut than necessary.  The rust 
eater ate the rust and I was able to get everything apart.  going 
back together, most of the fits were like original so I could run the 
nuts on by hand.

It was reformulated, but seems to still work well.


Sure does.  My 83 has yet to see an Upstate winter.  I really hate to even
drive it this winter but I currently have no choice.  The brine they are
putting on the roads around here is terrible.  I live right by Watkins
Glen, NY, home to Cargill, makers of the brine, so they test formulas on
local roads.  I have noticed a serious uprise in the amount of rust on cars
since they started with the stuff a few years ago.  Newer cars, with cheap
recycled parts are terrible to work on after just a couple of winters.  The
bodies don't rot so bad thanks to modern corrosion inhibitors but the
fasteners are frozen to the point of breaking or stripping the heads.

Mike
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Dimitri Seretakis]

I'm cleaning up some rust around the trim clip holes on front fender of my 
240D. One of them perforated and I had to weld the area closed. Naval jelly and 
POR-15 are my friends here. I'm doing what I can before the salt bath begins.

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 23, 2011, at 8:25 AM, Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com wrote:

Sure does.  My 83 has yet to see an Upstate winter.  I really hate to even
drive it this winter but I currently have no choice.  The brine they are
putting on the roads around here is terrible.  I live right by Watkins
Glen, NY, home to Cargill, makers of the brine, so they test formulas on
local roads.  I have noticed a serious uprise in the amount of rust on cars
since they started with the stuff a few years ago.  Newer cars, with cheap
recycled parts are terrible to work on after just a couple of winters.  The
bodies don't rot so bad thanks to modern corrosion inhibitors but the
fasteners are frozen to the point of breaking or stripping the heads.

Mike
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Dimitri Seretakis]

Tell me more about this stuff. Where do you get it?

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 23, 2011, at 9:23 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

Use the mopar rust eater/penetrating oil with graphite.
I just did the struts on a 12 yr old dodge and the bolts were rusted tight, 
with way more thread through the nut than necessary.  The rust eater ate the 
rust and I was able to get everything apart.  going back together, most of the 
fits were like original so I could run the nuts on by hand.
It was reformulated, but seems to still work well.

Sure does.  My 83 has yet to see an Upstate winter.  I really hate to even
drive it this winter but I currently have no choice.  The brine they are
putting on the roads around here is terrible.  I live right by Watkins
Glen, NY, home to Cargill, makers of the brine, so they test formulas on
local roads.  I have noticed a serious uprise in the amount of rust on cars
since they started with the stuff a few years ago.  Newer cars, with cheap
recycled parts are terrible to work on after just a couple of winters.  The
bodies don't rot so bad thanks to modern corrosion inhibitors but the
fasteners are frozen to the point of breaking or stripping the heads.

Mike
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Jim Cathey]

Well, there's always English undercoating.

They salt here too, now, the b@$#@ds.  The claim is that
the EPA made them do it.  They used to use sand, but then
there was too much particulate matter in the air (dust)
in the Spring.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Dieselhead]

from your friendly local Dogde stealership parts counter.  Ask for 
Mopar P/N 04318039AB,  That is the old number, but they should be 
able to look up the new one.  There is a photo of it here:


http://www.mopar.ca/en/accessories/inspectandreplaceexhaustsystemcomponents.php

There is also a picture of the old can on page 24 here:
http://starparts.chrysler.com/starlibrary/marketing/chemicals/chemicals.pdf



Tell me more about this stuff. Where do you get it?

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 23, 2011, at 9:23 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

Use the mopar rust eater/penetrating oil with graphite.
I just did the struts on a 12 yr old dodge and the bolts were rusted 
tight, with way more thread through the nut than necessary.  The 
rust eater ate the rust and I was able to get everything apart. 
going back together, most of the fits were like original so I could 
run the nuts on by hand.

It was reformulated, but seems to still work well.

Sure does.  My 83 has yet to see an Upstate winter.  I really hate to even
drive it this winter but I currently have no choice.  The brine they are
putting on the roads around here is terrible.  I live right by Watkins
Glen, NY, home to Cargill, makers of the brine, so they test formulas on
local roads.  I have noticed a serious uprise in the amount of rust on cars
since they started with the stuff a few years ago.  Newer cars, with cheap
recycled parts are terrible to work on after just a couple of winters.  The
bodies don't rot so bad thanks to modern corrosion inhibitors but the
fasteners are frozen to the point of breaking or stripping the heads.

Mike
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Gerry Archer]

Autozone has Rust Eater which probably isn't as good as Mopar
but it does dissolve rust.  Used it and a half dozen other products
on a tapered part that was stuck tight.  None unstuck it by normal
means but a 20 lb sledge finally did.
Gerry

From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
from your friendly local Dogde stealership parts counter.  Ask for Mopar 
P/N 04318039AB,  That is the old number, but they should be able to look 
up the new one.  There is a photo of it here:


http://www.mopar.ca/en/accessories/inspectandreplaceexhaustsystemcomponents.php

There is also a picture of the old can on page 24 here:
http://starparts.chrysler.com/starlibrary/marketing/chemicals/chemicals.pdf



Tell me more about this stuff. Where do you get it?

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 23, 2011, at 9:23 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

Use the mopar rust eater/penetrating oil with graphite.
I just did the struts on a 12 yr old dodge and the bolts were rusted 
tight, with way more thread through the nut than necessary.  The rust 
eater ate the rust and I was able to get everything apart. going back 
together, most of the fits were like original so I could run the nuts on 
by hand.

It was reformulated, but seems to still work well.

Sure does.  My 83 has yet to see an Upstate winter.  I really hate to even
drive it this winter but I currently have no choice.  The brine they are
putting on the roads around here is terrible.  I live right by Watkins
Glen, NY, home to Cargill, makers of the brine, so they test formulas on
local roads.  I have noticed a serious uprise in the amount of rust on 
cars

since they started with the stuff a few years ago.  Newer cars, with cheap
recycled parts are terrible to work on after just a couple of winters. 
The

bodies don't rot so bad thanks to modern corrosion inhibitors but the
fasteners are frozen to the point of breaking or stripping the heads.

Mike
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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1411 / Virus Database: 2092/4034 - Release Date: 11/23/11




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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Michael Canfield]

Acetone mixed with atf is the best penetrant.

Mike
On Nov 23, 2011 10:31 AM, Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Autozone has Rust Eater which probably isn't as good as Mopar
 but it does dissolve rust.  Used it and a half dozen other products
 on a tapered part that was stuck tight.  None unstuck it by normal
 means but a 20 lb sledge finally did.
 Gerry

 From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com

 from your friendly local Dogde stealership parts counter.  Ask for Mopar
 P/N 04318039AB,  That is the old number, but they should be able to look up
 the new one.  There is a photo of it here:

 http://www.mopar.ca/en/**accessories/**inspectandreplaceexhaustsystem**
 components.phphttp://www.mopar.ca/en/accessories/inspectandreplaceexhaustsystemcomponents.php

 There is also a picture of the old can on page 24 here:
 http://starparts.chrysler.com/**starlibrary/marketing/**
 chemicals/chemicals.pdfhttp://starparts.chrysler.com/starlibrary/marketing/chemicals/chemicals.pdf


  Tell me more about this stuff. Where do you get it?

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Nov 23, 2011, at 9:23 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 Use the mopar rust eater/penetrating oil with graphite.
 I just did the struts on a 12 yr old dodge and the bolts were rusted
 tight, with way more thread through the nut than necessary.  The rust eater
 ate the rust and I was able to get everything apart. going back together,
 most of the fits were like original so I could run the nuts on by hand.
 It was reformulated, but seems to still work well.

 Sure does.  My 83 has yet to see an Upstate winter.  I really hate to
 even
 drive it this winter but I currently have no choice.  The brine they are
 putting on the roads around here is terrible.  I live right by Watkins
 Glen, NY, home to Cargill, makers of the brine, so they test formulas on
 local roads.  I have noticed a serious uprise in the amount of rust on
 cars
 since they started with the stuff a few years ago.  Newer cars, with
 cheap
 recycled parts are terrible to work on after just a couple of winters.
 The
 bodies don't rot so bad thanks to modern corrosion inhibitors but the
 fasteners are frozen to the point of breaking or stripping the heads.

 Mike
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Curt Raymond]

Which reminds me I need to get a pump sprayer and coat the underside of my cars 
with oil before it gets too cold...

For rusty fasteners I've been using a Ford product that I found in my garage 
(left by the previous owner) which smells terrible but works a treat. Can't 
recall the name, starts with an R.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 06:28:17 -0800 (PST)
From: Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust
Message-ID:
1322058497.91191.yext-apple-iph...@web113207.mail.gq1.yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I'm cleaning up some rust around the trim clip holes on front fender of my 
240D. One of them perforated and I had to weld the area closed. Naval jelly and 
POR-15 are my friends here. I'm doing what I can before the salt bath begins.

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 23, 2011, at 8:25 AM, Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com wrote:

Sure does.  My 83 has yet to see an Upstate winter.  I really hate to even
drive it this winter but I currently have no choice.  The brine they are
putting on the roads around here is terrible.  I live right by Watkins
Glen, NY, home to Cargill, makers of the brine, so they test formulas on
local roads.  I have noticed a serious uprise in the amount of rust on cars
since they started with the stuff a few years ago.  Newer cars, with cheap
recycled parts are terrible to work on after just a couple of winters.  The
bodies don't rot so bad thanks to modern corrosion inhibitors but the
fasteners are frozen to the point of breaking or stripping the heads.

Mike

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Randy Bennell]

I think that the after market rustproofing is better than it once was. I 
don't know as though the tar like stuff they spray on the bottom of the 
car is any better as it tends to fall off and need to be repaired but I 
think that the waxy stuff they spray into the doors and body cavities is 
maybe better than it once was.


My wife's 07 Honda Accord appeared to have seam sealer etc that would 
have been applied while it was being built but lacked the solid black 
rubbery undercoating that the local new Honda's had at the time. That is 
why we had it sprayed by one of the local franchise outfits. They also 
drilled holes and sprayed the other stuff in the cavities. We have to 
take it back every 2nd year for touchups but are not charged for the 
inspection and repair.
I had my truck done too but it was not new enough to qualify for the 
long term warranty so I can take it in to be touched up but they will 
make me pay to have the repairs done and will not warranty it against rust.


My truck is an 02 F150 Supercrew. It is just now showing a spot on the 
bottom of the driver's side rocker panel that will need to be dealt 
with. The rest is good so far.


Randy

On 22/11/2011 6:19 PM, Allan Streib wrote:

Undercoating/rustproofing today is done before the car is fully assembled, the chassis and body are 
dipped in corrosion inhibitors.  Aftermarket undercoating, dealer paint protection, and 
the like is largely a scam, basically adds nothing.  Maybe in the days when cars got no 
anticorrosion treatment at the factory, it did a little.  But my parents paid to have an Izuzu 
(Buick Opel) rustproofed in the late '70s, and it rusted out as fast if not faster than 
any other car they owned.

Allan


On Tuesday, November 22, 2011 5:37 PM, Randy Bennellrbenn...@bennell.ca  
wrote:

Does Mercedes sell the same car throughout the USA?

I ask because my wife's Honda Accord came from Forida.
There was essentially no undercoating on the car when we got it one year
old.
We had it undercoated and rust proofed here in order to try to preserve it.

I went to the local Honda dealer and looked at the cars there and was
assured that the undercoating that I saw on the cars there was original
and factory and not something they had added.

Obviously Honda prepares cars differently for different markets.

I have to wonder if MB does the same and if somebody is moving cars
around the country such that you are getting cars in NE that were not
intended to be sold in NE.

Randy

On 22/11/2011 5:05 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:



I posted this on the MBCA forum to illustrate my disatisfaction with the 
rust situation on newer MBs.

http://www.mbca.org/forum/2011-11-22/unacceptable-mercedes-rust
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Randy Bennell]

In Manitoba, it is considered too cold during much of the winter for 
salt to help much on the highways. Nevertheless, the City of Winnipeg 
tends to salt intersections and as a result we get a bit of a regular 
salt bath if the weather permits - IE - if it warms up a bit and then 
snows a bit.


If, I make a run to Ontario in the winter (the cottage is on Lake of the 
Woods south of Kenora) then there is almost a line at the border where 
the road turns white. Ontario salts the heck out of the roads. Maybe 
justified as the hills and general terrain make the snow hang about more 
than in Manitoba where it tends to be more open and blow off of the roads.


Randy who does not wish to buy any used cars from Ontario!


On 22/11/2011 10:51 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

The second link has amounts applied per mile  And the WINNERS are:

NY
MA
VT
NH

with honorable mention to:
MI

IL is shown as a piker at 6.6, however it is a long state, and the 
southern half is radiacally different than the Chicago area. Northern 
IL is probably at 12, and chicagoland is probably right up there with NY


Pretty much jives with the rusty cars per capita by state.








On Tue, 22 Nov 2011 15:59:57 -0800 (PST) Dimitri Seretakis
dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:


 I hate road salt.  Is it true that they dont use it in Colorado?


No. When we lived there the sand that the highway trucks put on the 
roads

was mixed with 10% salt.

See http://onlinepubs.trb.org/onlinepubs/sr/sr235/017-030.pdf

and

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f76/map-states-use-road-salt-27855/ 



I'm not sure of the accuracy of the last link.

Also,

Why does colorado not use salt on their roads?
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20081224123452AA23Uwq

That link says they use magnesium chloride, which is even worse on cars.

Other links:

www.michigan.gov/documents/ch2-deice_51438_7.pdf

http://www.koaa.com/news/study-road-salt-harming-many-urban-streams/
(from Colorado)

http://www.usroads.com/journals/p/rmj/9712/rm971202.htm

http://www.saltinstitute.org/Articles-references/References-on-salt-use/References-on-salt-use/References-for-use-of-road-salt 


(even had YouTube videos of interesting situations).

Craig





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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[WILTON]

Ziebart in Sault Ste. Marie, ON, did a '71 Chrysler wagon for me in late 
'71.  'Sold it in sou. Cal. in '78 still like new.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2011 12:27 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust


I think that the after market rustproofing is better than it once was. I 
don't know as though the tar like stuff they spray on the bottom of the car 
is any better as it tends to fall off and need to be repaired but I think 
that the waxy stuff they spray into the doors and body cavities is maybe 
better than it once was.


My wife's 07 Honda Accord appeared to have seam sealer etc that would have 
been applied while it was being built but lacked the solid black rubbery 
undercoating that the local new Honda's had at the time. That is why we 
had it sprayed by one of the local franchise outfits. They also drilled 
holes and sprayed the other stuff in the cavities. We have to take it back 
every 2nd year for touchups but are not charged for the inspection and 
repair.
I had my truck done too but it was not new enough to qualify for the long 
term warranty so I can take it in to be touched up but they will make me 
pay to have the repairs done and will not warranty it against rust.


My truck is an 02 F150 Supercrew. It is just now showing a spot on the 
bottom of the driver's side rocker panel that will need to be dealt with. 
The rest is good so far.


Randy

On 22/11/2011 6:19 PM, Allan Streib wrote:
Undercoating/rustproofing today is done before the car is fully 
assembled, the chassis and body are dipped in corrosion inhibitors. 
Aftermarket undercoating, dealer paint protection, and the like is 
largely a scam, basically adds nothing.  Maybe in the days when cars got 
no anticorrosion treatment at the factory, it did a little.  But my 
parents paid to have an Izuzu (Buick Opel) rustproofed in the late 
'70s, and it rusted out as fast if not faster than any other car they 
owned.


Allan


On Tuesday, November 22, 2011 5:37 PM, Randy 
Bennellrbenn...@bennell.ca  wrote:

Does Mercedes sell the same car throughout the USA?

I ask because my wife's Honda Accord came from Forida.
There was essentially no undercoating on the car when we got it one year
old.
We had it undercoated and rust proofed here in order to try to preserve 
it.


I went to the local Honda dealer and looked at the cars there and was
assured that the undercoating that I saw on the cars there was original
and factory and not something they had added.

Obviously Honda prepares cars differently for different markets.

I have to wonder if MB does the same and if somebody is moving cars
around the country such that you are getting cars in NE that were not
intended to be sold in NE.

Randy

On 22/11/2011 5:05 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:



I posted this on the MBCA forum to illustrate my disatisfaction 
with the rust situation on newer MBs.


http://www.mbca.org/forum/2011-11-22/unacceptable-mercedes-rust
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Dieselhead]

I am not disagreeing with that.  The mopar stuff eats rust.  there is 
a difference.  Different tools for different problems.


With the dogde struts, I could turn the nut, but the rust on the 1 
or so of bolt sticking through the nut made it so tough that the bolt 
would break before the nut came off.  Yes, I could have worked the 
nut in and out repeatedly to get through the rust with or without 
penetrating oil.  The acetone/atf would help, but not take off the 
rust.


The Mopar stuff: I sprayed it on, waited maybe 20-30 minutes and was 
able to back the nut off.


If the nut is rust welded to the bolt, then the ATF/acetone is the tool.




Acetone mixed with atf is the best penetrant.

Mike
On Nov 23, 2011 10:31 AM, Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com wrote:


 Autozone has Rust Eater which probably isn't as good as Mopar
 but it does dissolve rust.  Used it and a half dozen other products
 on a tapered part that was stuck tight.  None unstuck it by normal
 means but a 20 lb sledge finally did.
 Gerry

 From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com


 from your friendly local Dogde stealership parts counter.  Ask for Mopar
 P/N 04318039AB,  That is the old number, but they should be able to look up
 the new one.  There is a photo of it here:

 http://www.mopar.ca/en/**accessories/**inspectandreplaceexhaustsystem**

components.phphttp://www.mopar.ca/en/accessories/inspectandreplaceexhaustsystemcomponents.php

 There is also a picture of the old can on page 24 here:
 http://starparts.chrysler.com/**starlibrary/marketing/**

chemicals/chemicals.pdfhttp://starparts.chrysler.com/starlibrary/marketing/chemicals/chemicals.pdf


  Tell me more about this stuff. Where do you get it?


 Sent from my iPhone

 On Nov 23, 2011, at 9:23 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 Use the mopar rust eater/penetrating oil with graphite.
 I just did the struts on a 12 yr old dodge and the bolts were rusted
 tight, with way more thread through the nut than necessary.  The 
rust eater

 ate the rust and I was able to get everything apart. going back together,
 most of the fits were like original so I could run the nuts on by hand.
 It was reformulated, but seems to still work well.

 Sure does.  My 83 has yet to see an Upstate winter.  I really hate to
 even
 drive it this winter but I currently have no choice.  The brine they are
 putting on the roads around here is terrible.  I live right by Watkins
 Glen, NY, home to Cargill, makers of the brine, so they test formulas on
 local roads.  I have noticed a serious uprise in the amount of rust on
 cars
 since they started with the stuff a few years ago.  Newer cars, with
 cheap
 recycled parts are terrible to work on after just a couple of winters.
 The
 bodies don't rot so bad thanks to modern corrosion inhibitors but the
 fasteners are frozen to the point of breaking or stripping the heads.

 Mike
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[WILTON]

And I won't buy one from Florida or farther north than VA.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2011 12:30 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust


In Manitoba, it is considered too cold during much of the winter for salt 
to help much on the highways. Nevertheless, the City of Winnipeg tends to 
salt intersections and as a result we get a bit of a regular salt bath if 
the weather permits - IE - if it warms up a bit and then snows a bit.


If, I make a run to Ontario in the winter (the cottage is on Lake of the 
Woods south of Kenora) then there is almost a line at the border where the 
road turns white. Ontario salts the heck out of the roads. Maybe justified 
as the hills and general terrain make the snow hang about more than in 
Manitoba where it tends to be more open and blow off of the roads.


Randy who does not wish to buy any used cars from Ontario!


On 22/11/2011 10:51 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

The second link has amounts applied per mile  And the WINNERS are:

NY
MA
VT
NH

with honorable mention to:
MI

IL is shown as a piker at 6.6, however it is a long state, and the 
southern half is radiacally different than the Chicago area. Northern IL 
is probably at 12, and chicagoland is probably right up there with NY


Pretty much jives with the rusty cars per capita by state.








On Tue, 22 Nov 2011 15:59:57 -0800 (PST) Dimitri Seretakis
dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:


 I hate road salt.  Is it true that they dont use it in Colorado?


No. When we lived there the sand that the highway trucks put on the 
roads

was mixed with 10% salt.

See http://onlinepubs.trb.org/onlinepubs/sr/sr235/017-030.pdf

and

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f76/map-states-use-road-salt-27855/

I'm not sure of the accuracy of the last link.

Also,

Why does colorado not use salt on their roads?
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20081224123452AA23Uwq

That link says they use magnesium chloride, which is even worse on cars.

Other links:

www.michigan.gov/documents/ch2-deice_51438_7.pdf

http://www.koaa.com/news/study-road-salt-harming-many-urban-streams/
(from Colorado)

http://www.usroads.com/journals/p/rmj/9712/rm971202.htm

http://www.saltinstitute.org/Articles-references/References-on-salt-use/References-on-salt-use/References-for-use-of-road-salt
(even had YouTube videos of interesting situations).

Craig





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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Allan Streib]

On Wednesday, November 23, 2011 11:27 AM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca 
wrote:

 I think that the after market rustproofing is better than it once was.
 I don't know as though the tar like stuff they spray on the bottom of
 the car is any better as it tends to fall off and need to be repaired
 but I think that the waxy stuff they spray into the doors and body
 cavities is maybe better than it once was.

The waxy stuff is good.  That's what the VW had from the factory, on a
really hot day it would ooze out around some of the trim pieces.

The trouble with the black tar/ziebart treatment is I think it sealed up
the drains in the doors and other enclosed areas that they sprayed it
into, thereby trapping moisture and actually accelerating rust.

Allan

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[OK Don]

Does the acetone actually mix with the ATF? Mine separates instantly with
M1 ATF -- haven't bought any ordinary ATF to try it with.
That having been said, if I shake it vigorously, and apply immediately, it
seems to work.

On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 10:32 AM, Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.comwrote:

 Acetone mixed with atf is the best penetrant.

 Mike

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[WILTON]

Wherever I could, I tried to make sure drains were open, poked with clothes 
hanger, etc., after treatment.  Obviously, not sure if I got all of 'em.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2011 1:57 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust


On Wednesday, November 23, 2011 11:27 AM, Randy Bennell 
rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:



I think that the after market rustproofing is better than it once was.
I don't know as though the tar like stuff they spray on the bottom of
the car is any better as it tends to fall off and need to be repaired
but I think that the waxy stuff they spray into the doors and body
cavities is maybe better than it once was.


The waxy stuff is good.  That's what the VW had from the factory, on a
really hot day it would ooze out around some of the trim pieces.

The trouble with the black tar/ziebart treatment is I think it sealed up
the drains in the doors and other enclosed areas that they sprayed it
into, thereby trapping moisture and actually accelerating rust.

Allan

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Randy Bennell]

On 23/11/2011 1:10 PM, OK Don wrote:

Does the acetone actually mix with the ATF? Mine separates instantly with
M1 ATF -- haven't bought any ordinary ATF to try it with.
That having been said, if I shake it vigorously, and apply immediately, it
seems to work.

On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 10:32 AM, Michael Canfieldslozuk...@gmail.comwrote:


Acetone mixed with atf is the best penetrant.

Mike



I had essentially the same experience with non-synthetic AT fluid. It 
won't stay mixed for long for me either.


Also, remember to be very careful around paint. I assume the acetone 
would remove paint quite well.


Randy

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Gerry Archer]

Might be interesting to add a dab of liquid soap to the mixture. Liquid
soap (sodium lauryl sulphate) is an emulsifier which might keep the oil in 
suspension. 
 
http://pharmacy.wilkes.edu/kibbeweb/lab6.html 

.or Tween 80 (not cheap)

http://www.bio-world.com/productinfo/4_847_64_486/125960/Tween-Polysorbate.html?gclid=CNenibOqzqwCFQ1X7AodLE3uqw
 

Gerry

From: OK Don okd...@gmail.com
 Does the acetone actually mix with the ATF? Mine separates instantly with
 M1 ATF -- haven't bought any ordinary ATF to try it with.
 That having been said, if I shake it vigorously, and apply immediately, it
 seems to work.
 
 On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 10:32 AM, Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.comwrote:
 
 Acetone mixed with atf is the best penetrant.

 Mike
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[MBZ] Rust

[Dimitri Seretakis]

 



  I posted this on the MBCA forum to illustrate my disatisfaction with the rust 
situation on newer MBs.
 
http://www.mbca.org/forum/2011-11-22/unacceptable-mercedes-rust  
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Randy Bennell]

Does Mercedes sell the same car throughout the USA?

I ask because my wife's Honda Accord came from Forida.
There was essentially no undercoating on the car when we got it one year 
old.

We had it undercoated and rust proofed here in order to try to preserve it.

I went to the local Honda dealer and looked at the cars there and was 
assured that the undercoating that I saw on the cars there was original 
and factory and not something they had added.


Obviously Honda prepares cars differently for different markets.

I have to wonder if MB does the same and if somebody is moving cars 
around the country such that you are getting cars in NE that were not 
intended to be sold in NE.


Randy

On 22/11/2011 5:05 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:



   I posted this on the MBCA forum to illustrate my disatisfaction with the 
rust situation on newer MBs.
  
http://www.mbca.org/forum/2011-11-22/unacceptable-mercedes-rust

___




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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Allan Streib]

I'm in a state that gets snow and ice in the winter, consequently salt is used 
on the roads.  I've never owned a car that didn't rust to some extent (and I'll 
count the cars my parents owned since I'm familiar with them).  Japanese, 
American, German... they all rust.

Best experience was a '91 VW Jetta, it was largely rust free after 10 years but 
it was starting.  Worst was a '87 Toyota truck, the bed and fenders were like 
swiss cheese when I sold it. 

I think a lot of places use a lot more salt than they used to, also.  

Allan


On Tuesday, November 22, 2011 3:05 PM, Dimitri Seretakis 
dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
 
  
 
 
 
   I posted this on the MBCA forum to illustrate my disatisfaction with the 
 rust situation on newer MBs.
  
 http://www.mbca.org/forum/2011-11-22/unacceptable-mercedes-rust  
 ___
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 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Dimitri Seretakis]

I hate road salt.  Is it true that they dont use it in Colorado?

 


 From: Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 6:55 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust
 
I'm in a state that gets snow and ice in the winter, consequently salt is used 
on the roads.  I've never owned a car that didn't rust to some extent (and I'll 
count the cars my parents owned since I'm familiar with them).  Japanese, 
American, German... they all rust.

Best experience was a '91 VW Jetta, it was largely rust free after 10 years but 
it was starting.  Worst was a '87 Toyota truck, the bed and fenders were like 
swiss cheese when I sold it. 

I think a lot of places use a lot more salt than they used to, also.  

Allan


On Tuesday, November 22, 2011 3:05 PM, Dimitri Seretakis 
dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
 
  
 
 
 
   I posted this on the MBCA forum to illustrate my disatisfaction with the 
 rust situation on newer MBs.
  
 http://www.mbca.org/forum/2011-11-22/unacceptable-mercedes-rust  
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[hursley]

 My 99 W210 has a rust spot in the wheel fender. And I do wash the wheel well 
after every salt bath. Vehicle was brand new when we acquired it and had never 
left the snow belt area (NJ).  Car is running fine and good.

K.S.

On 11/22/11, Randy Bennell wrote:


Does Mercedes sell the same car throughout the USA?

I ask because my wife's Honda Accord came from Forida.
There was essentially no undercoating on the car when we got it one year 
old.
We had it undercoated and rust proofed here in order to try to preserve it.

I went to the local Honda dealer and looked at the cars there and was 
assured that the undercoating that I saw on the cars there was original 
and factory and not something they had added.

Obviously Honda prepares cars differently for different markets.

I have to wonder if MB does the same and if somebody is moving cars 
around the country such that you are getting cars in NE that were not 
intended to be sold in NE.

Randy

On 22/11/2011 5:05 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
 

 I posted this on the MBCA forum to illustrate my disatisfaction with the rust 
 situation on newer MBs.
 
 http://www.mbca.org/forum/2011-11-22/unacceptable-mercedes-rust
 ___



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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[clay monroe]

I think there may be some factory work done to prep the cars for a certain 
market, if they know the batch will be going to a cold or rust prone place.  
Sort of like Kalifornia cars are not the same as real benz.  Gump was sold in 
IL, and was outfitted with cold weather gear that would not have been standard 
for a southern car.  Pretty sure the block heater and undercoating would have 
been on a car meant for a florida or oregon dealer.

clay

On Nov 22, 2011, at 3:37 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:

 
 Does Mercedes sell the same car throughout the USA?
 
 I ask because my wife's Honda Accord came from Forida.
 There was essentially no undercoating on the car when we got it one year old.
 We had it undercoated and rust proofed here in order to try to preserve it.
 
 I went to the local Honda dealer and looked at the cars there and was assured 
 that the undercoating that I saw on the cars there was original and factory 
 and not something they had added.
 
 Obviously Honda prepares cars differently for different markets.
 
 I have to wonder if MB does the same and if somebody is moving cars around 
 the country such that you are getting cars in NE that were not intended to be 
 sold in NE.
 
 Randy
 
 On 22/11/2011 5:05 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
 
 
   I posted this on the MBCA forum to illustrate my disatisfaction with the 
 rust situation on newer MBs.
  http://www.mbca.org/forum/2011-11-22/unacceptable-mercedes-rust
 ___
 
 
 
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Allan Streib]

Undercoating/rustproofing today is done before the car is fully assembled, the 
chassis and body are dipped in corrosion inhibitors.  Aftermarket undercoating, 
dealer paint protection, and the like is largely a scam, basically adds 
nothing.  Maybe in the days when cars got no anticorrosion treatment at the 
factory, it did a little.  But my parents paid to have an Izuzu (Buick Opel) 
rustproofed in the late '70s, and it rusted out as fast if not faster than 
any other car they owned.

Allan


On Tuesday, November 22, 2011 5:37 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca 
wrote:
 
 Does Mercedes sell the same car throughout the USA?
 
 I ask because my wife's Honda Accord came from Forida.
 There was essentially no undercoating on the car when we got it one year 
 old.
 We had it undercoated and rust proofed here in order to try to preserve it.
 
 I went to the local Honda dealer and looked at the cars there and was 
 assured that the undercoating that I saw on the cars there was original 
 and factory and not something they had added.
 
 Obviously Honda prepares cars differently for different markets.
 
 I have to wonder if MB does the same and if somebody is moving cars 
 around the country such that you are getting cars in NE that were not 
 intended to be sold in NE.
 
 Randy
 
 On 22/11/2011 5:05 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
  
 
 I posted this on the MBCA forum to illustrate my disatisfaction with the 
  rust situation on newer MBs.

  http://www.mbca.org/forum/2011-11-22/unacceptable-mercedes-rust
  ___
 
 
 
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Larry T]

    I did some research for a guy a couple of years ago  to find out what MB 
says in their sales/company lit about Rust prote ction - he had a 2000 S430 and 
the paint below the beltline began to fall off - I looked but could only find 
very vague references to protection against rust and corrosion - no thing 
definitive.   Lots of stuff re lating to Safety but nothing about corrosion 
which surprised me.  I have a fair amount of MB lit and t here was no mention 
of corrosion protectoin from the  60's to today. 



   I believe he eventually sued but never heard the results..  Like others, his 
was bought new, never wrecked/repaired and was always cared for.  He was from a 
Southern state like Ga or AL, IIRC  -- so road salt was not an issue for him . 
He went to MB and asked if they would stand behind their product but they said 
they would not repair the problem under warranty or good will.  The paint was 
coming off the car in sheets with corrosion clearly visible where the paint had 
been.    I think soimething happend around the mid-90s with MB QC - not sure 
what but things went downhill.  Some say it started years earlier - perhaps so 
- I know the early 70s were awesome cars as well as the W123 and 124 models. 



But everyone has a a story - 

;-) 



LarryT 

91 300D 


Let your engine tell you how healthy it is!   Visit www.youroil.net   For 
Inexpensive Oil Test Kits! 
- Original Message -
From: hurs...@verizon.net 
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 7:03:39 PM 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust 

 My 99 W210 has a rust spot in the wheel fender. And I do wash the wheel well 
after every salt bath. Vehicle was brand new when we acquired it and had never 
left the snow belt area (NJ).  Car is running fine and good. 

K.S. 

On 11/22/11, Randy Bennell wrote: 


Does Mercedes sell the same car throughout the USA? 

I ask because my wife's Honda Accord came from Forida. 
There was essentially no undercoating on the car when we got it one year 
old. 
We had it undercoated and rust proofed here in order to try to preserve it. 

I went to the local Honda dealer and looked at the cars there and was 
assured that the undercoating that I saw on the cars there was original 
and factory and not something they had added. 

Obviously Honda prepares cars differently for different markets. 

I have to wonder if MB does the same and if somebody is moving cars 
around the country such that you are getting cars in NE that were not 
intended to be sold in NE. 

Randy 

On 22/11/2011 5:05 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote: 
  
 
 I posted this on the MBCA forum to illustrate my disatisfaction with the rust 
 situation on newer MBs. 
 
 http://www.mbca.org/forum/2011-11-22/unacceptable-mercedes-rust 
 ___ 
 


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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Allan Streib]

On Wednesday, November 23, 2011 1:15 AM, Larry T l02tur...@comcast.net 
wrote:

 I think soimething happend around the mid-90s with MB QC - not sure
 what but things went downhill.

European regulations on paint, required a change to a water-based paint
with less VOC emissions, took a few years to sort it out.

Same sort of thing that gave us the biodegradable wiring harness at
about the same time.

Allan

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[LWB250]

I worked for a guy whose wife was deeply involved in the development and 
marketing when they lived in New Jersey (their families were from SFO, which is 
where I worked for him.)

I spoke to her about it several times, and while she was pretty closed mouthed 
about the whole thing, he told me on more than one occasion that internally the 
190 was considered a failure.

Nothing new here

Dan



 From: Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 8:29 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust
 
On Wednesday, November 23, 2011 1:15 AM, Larry T l02tur...@comcast.net 
wrote:

 I think soimething happend around the mid-90s with MB QC - not sure
 what but things went downhill.

European regulations on paint, required a change to a water-based paint
with less VOC emissions, took a few years to sort it out.

Same sort of thing that gave us the biodegradable wiring harness at
about the same time.

Allan

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Mountain Man]

Dimitri wrote:
 I hate road salt.  Is it true that they dont use it in Colorado?

It was true 20 years ago when we lived there.
As I understand, they coat the sand these days - maybe they did 20
years ago too, I don't know.
The issue explained to me was the annual waterfall of 13 which causes
a real brine runoff if salt is used.
The salt here is coated - salt is huge BigBiz - money for nothing,
that's the way you do it...
mao - chicago

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Dimitri Seretakis]

Audis and BMWs of the same vintage do not have rust problems. Wouldn't those 
European regulations have effected them as well?

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 22, 2011, at 8:29 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

On Wednesday, November 23, 2011 1:15 AM, Larry T l02tur...@comcast.net 
wrote:

I think soimething happend around the mid-90s with MB QC - not sure
what but things went downhill.

European regulations on paint, required a change to a water-based paint
with less VOC emissions, took a few years to sort it out.

Same sort of thing that gave us the biodegradable wiring harness at
about the same time.

Allan

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[LWB250]

Deeply involved in the development and marketing of the 190, that is.

Dan



 From: LWB250 lwb...@yahoo.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 9:07 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust
 
I worked for a guy whose wife was deeply involved in the development and 
marketing when they lived in New Jersey (their families were from SFO, which is 
where I worked for him.)

I spoke to her about it several times, and while she was pretty closed mouthed 
about the whole thing, he told me on more than one occasion that internally the 
190 was considered a failure.

Nothing new here

Dan



From: Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 8:29 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust

On Wednesday, November 23, 2011 1:15 AM, Larry T l02tur...@comcast.net 
wrote:

 I think soimething happend around the mid-90s with MB QC - not sure
 what but things went downhill.

European regulations on paint, required a change to a water-based paint
with less VOC emissions, took a few years to sort it out.

Same sort of thing that gave us the biodegradable wiring harness at
about the same time.

Allan

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[LWB250]

There was an issue with clear coats in the early 80s.  Exposure to the 
elements, especially sun, accelerated it.

It was very common to see 81-84 models down here in the late 90s where the 
clear coat was gone or was peeling off in large pieces on horizontal surfaces.  
And this was even on garage kept cars.

Dan



 From: Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 8:29 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust
 
On Wednesday, November 23, 2011 1:15 AM, Larry T l02tur...@comcast.net 
wrote:

 I think soimething happend around the mid-90s with MB QC - not sure
 what but things went downhill.

European regulations on paint, required a change to a water-based paint
with less VOC emissions, took a few years to sort it out.

Same sort of thing that gave us the biodegradable wiring harness at
about the same time.

Allan

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Dieselhead]

They don't use any in Hawaii.  They didn't in TX 30 years ago.  Not 
sure about now.  Many other states that didn't used to, now do use 
salt, or a fancier chemical salt (calcium chloride et al)




I hate road salt.  Is it true that they dont use it in Colorado?




 From: Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 6:55 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust

I'm in a state that gets snow and ice in the winter, consequently 
salt is used on the roads.  I've never owned a car that didn't rust 
to some extent (and I'll count the cars my parents owned since I'm 
familiar with them).  Japanese, American, German... they all rust.


Best experience was a '91 VW Jetta, it was largely rust free after 
10 years but it was starting.  Worst was a '87 Toyota truck, the bed 
and fenders were like swiss cheese when I sold it.


I think a lot of places use a lot more salt than they used to, also. 


Allan


On Tuesday, November 22, 2011 3:05 PM, Dimitri Seretakis 
dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:





 

   I posted this on the MBCA forum to illustrate my disatisfaction 
with the rust situation on newer MBs.
  
 http://www.mbca.org/forum/2011-11-22/unacceptable-mercedes-rust 
 ___

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Dieselhead]

I'm in a state that gets snow and ice in the winter, consequently 
salt is used on the roads.  I've never owned a car that didn't rust 
to some extent (and I'll count the cars my parents owned since I'm 
familiar with them).  Japanese, American, German... they all rust.


Best experience was a '91 VW Jetta, it was largely rust free after 
10 years but it was starting.  Worst was a '87 Toyota truck, the bed 
and fenders were like swiss cheese when I sold it.


I think a lot of places use a lot more salt than they used to, also. 


Allan


Many states now put down brine in place of salt and sand.  My 
experience is that the brine causes cars to rust even faster.  The 
worst vehicles were in the mid 70s, after the second round of 
pollution restriction.  Many cars and trucks rusted through within 
the first winter.  The Pieces OS got craapy fuel economy.  like 10-14 
for deetriot cars, and 6-12 for pickups.


This was a direct cause of the influx of japanese pickups and cars, 
under their own banner or under the banner of a deetriot giant. 
People did not want to buy a deetriot POS that was crappy, cost a 
fortune in fuel, and rusted out the first winter.  Robert McNamara's 
theory was proven wrong.


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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Dimitri Seretakis]

Yes I noticed the brine for the first time last winter. It really made me mad 
when they brined the roads three weeks before the first snowfall. Salt exposure 
for nothing.

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 22, 2011, at 10:12 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

I'm in a state that gets snow and ice in the winter, consequently salt is used 
on the roads.  I've never owned a car that didn't rust to some extent (and I'll 
count the cars my parents owned since I'm familiar with them).  Japanese, 
American, German... they all rust.

Best experience was a '91 VW Jetta, it was largely rust free after 10 years but 
it was starting.  Worst was a '87 Toyota truck, the bed and fenders were like 
swiss cheese when I sold it.

I think a lot of places use a lot more salt than they used to, also. 
Allan

Many states now put down brine in place of salt and sand.  My experience is 
that the brine causes cars to rust even faster.  The worst vehicles were in the 
mid 70s, after the second round of pollution restriction.  Many cars and trucks 
rusted through within the first winter.  The Pieces OS got craapy fuel economy. 
 like 10-14 for deetriot cars, and 6-12 for pickups.

This was a direct cause of the influx of japanese pickups and cars, under their 
own banner or under the banner of a deetriot giant. People did not want to buy 
a deetriot POS that was crappy, cost a fortune in fuel, and rusted out the 
first winter.  Robert McNamara's theory was proven wrong.

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Craig]

On Tue, 22 Nov 2011 15:59:57 -0800 (PST) Dimitri Seretakis
dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

 I hate road salt.  Is it true that they dont use it in Colorado?

No. When we lived there the sand that the highway trucks put on the roads
was mixed with 10% salt.

See http://onlinepubs.trb.org/onlinepubs/sr/sr235/017-030.pdf

and

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f76/map-states-use-road-salt-27855/

I'm not sure of the accuracy of the last link.

Also,

Why does colorado not use salt on their roads?
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20081224123452AA23Uwq

That link says they use magnesium chloride, which is even worse on cars.

Other links:

www.michigan.gov/documents/ch2-deice_51438_7.pdf

http://www.koaa.com/news/study-road-salt-harming-many-urban-streams/
(from Colorado)

http://www.usroads.com/journals/p/rmj/9712/rm971202.htm

http://www.saltinstitute.org/Articles-references/References-on-salt-use/References-on-salt-use/References-for-use-of-road-salt
(even had YouTube videos of interesting situations).


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] rust

[RELNGSON]

 ...Undercoating/rustproofing today is done before the car is fully 
 assembled
 
MB is paying a lot more attention to corrosion in the newest cars and the 
all-stainless steel dual exhaust system on my 2008 is just one example. I 
think they may be a bit late to the party since Porsche has been building their 
bodies with zinc coated steel since 1976. Before that time, they could be 
rusted out before the last payment was due.

RLE

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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Dieselhead]

The second link has amounts applied per mile  And the WINNERS are:

NY
MA
VT
NH

with honorable mention to:
MI

IL is shown as a piker at 6.6, however it is a long state, and the 
southern half is radiacally different than the Chicago area. 
Northern IL is probably at 12, and chicagoland is probably right up 
there with NY


Pretty much jives with the rusty cars per capita by state.








On Tue, 22 Nov 2011 15:59:57 -0800 (PST) Dimitri Seretakis
dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:


 I hate road salt.  Is it true that they dont use it in Colorado?


No. When we lived there the sand that the highway trucks put on the roads
was mixed with 10% salt.

See http://onlinepubs.trb.org/onlinepubs/sr/sr235/017-030.pdf

and

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f76/map-states-use-road-salt-27855/

I'm not sure of the accuracy of the last link.

Also,

Why does colorado not use salt on their roads?
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20081224123452AA23Uwq

That link says they use magnesium chloride, which is even worse on cars.

Other links:

www.michigan.gov/documents/ch2-deice_51438_7.pdf

http://www.koaa.com/news/study-road-salt-harming-many-urban-streams/
(from Colorado)

http://www.usroads.com/journals/p/rmj/9712/rm971202.htm

http://www.saltinstitute.org/Articles-references/References-on-salt-use/References-on-salt-use/References-for-use-of-road-salt
(even had YouTube videos of interesting situations).

Craig


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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[Walt Zarnoch]

Yeah, NY kills cars... :(

Walt

On Tue, Nov 22, 2011 at 11:51 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
 The second link has amounts applied per mile  And the WINNERS are:

 NY
 MA
 VT
 NH

 with honorable mention to:
 MI

 IL is shown as a piker at 6.6, however it is a long state, and the southern
 half is radiacally different than the Chicago area. Northern IL is probably
 at 12, and chicagoland is probably right up there with NY

 Pretty much jives with the rusty cars per capita by state.







 On Tue, 22 Nov 2011 15:59:57 -0800 (PST) Dimitri Seretakis
 dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

  I hate road salt.  Is it true that they dont use it in Colorado?

 No. When we lived there the sand that the highway trucks put on the roads
 was mixed with 10% salt.

 See http://onlinepubs.trb.org/onlinepubs/sr/sr235/017-030.pdf

 and


 http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f76/map-states-use-road-salt-27855/

 I'm not sure of the accuracy of the last link.

 Also,

 Why does colorado not use salt on their roads?
 http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20081224123452AA23Uwq

 That link says they use magnesium chloride, which is even worse on cars.

 Other links:

 www.michigan.gov/documents/ch2-deice_51438_7.pdf

 http://www.koaa.com/news/study-road-salt-harming-many-urban-streams/
 (from Colorado)

 http://www.usroads.com/journals/p/rmj/9712/rm971202.htm


 http://www.saltinstitute.org/Articles-references/References-on-salt-use/References-on-salt-use/References-for-use-of-road-salt
 (even had YouTube videos of interesting situations).

 Craig

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[MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[theprofil...@dwx.com]

Best thing I've found for rust so far is Marine Penetrol. It is intended for 
use in rustproofing ballast tanks on ship, will penetrate heavy scale, drive 
out moisture, and can be coated with anything you 
like. It's also cheap, and better than the POR I used to use. Turns metal black 
just like POR. 

Second-best thing, believe it or not, is plain old linseed oil. It penetrates 
rust and gels, but never really hardens, so doesn't encapsulate rust like paint 
and other rustproofers can. You need to recoat a 
couple times per year because it does erode, but after doing it spring and fall 
on my 126, it stopped undercarriage rust cold for the 7 years I've owned 
it--and I drove it in a lot of midwestern salt. I 
just slather it on with a small paintbrush on a warm day. I also flushed the 
car after each snowstorm with a lot of hot water from a high-pressure spray 
nozzle on a garden hose--enough to melt all 
the slush off and rinse every cranny until the water came off clear. Just 
running through the car wash undercarriage spray does more harm than 
good--saturates the salt and slush that's already 
there, but doesn't remove it. I let the car dry outside, then store it inside, 
but only because I hate scraping snow and ice off it before work every morning.

Dan
82 300SD
336K FOR SALE $500 needs trans flush and alt installed
Des Moines


I wouldn't spray them down with water.  If it's below freezing out, I'd just
park them.  Putting water on a salty car is just making things worse.  Salt
isn't good for a car, but if it's dry, I don't think it will do too much.
Mix it with water, and add a bit of heat, then you have a problem!

We get a LOT of salt use here too!!  Insane amount in the city.  Rust hasn't
been too big a problem over the years, but I do leave the daily drivers
outdoors in the  winter, and I try not to wash them too often.  On parts
that I think are a bit vulnerable, I've been giving them a little spray with
Rustcheck.  Not the standard one, but the thicker one, which I think is used
for farm equipment, storing snowblowers and such.  It will wash off too, but
I find it sticks quite well.  I try to get a coat on when its' still warm
out, so it will help aid with penetrating into some of the seams and stuff,
but it doesn't flow much, unlike the regular stuff.  I think the thicker
Rustcheck is a bit more like what the English use, Waxoil.  Tends to stay
put a bit better.

Ed
300E

On 2 December 2010 18:29, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 For a lot of us in states that see snow in the wintertime, it's hard to
 keep the rust at bay for that long also if you are driving them in the salt.
  And it seems to me that every year they dump the salt faster and more
 heavily than the year before.

 Even if you try to spray the car off every time you get home, the salt
 works its way into every nook and cranny and if it finds bare metal it goes
 to work.

 Allan
 --
 1983 300D, with some rust starting to show.





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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[Peter T. Arnold]

OK, I flush car off with hot water.

Than I wait till Easter for it to thaw.



On 12/3/2010 10:01 AM, theprofil...@dwx.com wrote:

SNIP



  I also flushed the car after each snowstorm with a lot of hot water from a 
high-pressure spray nozzle on a garden hose--enough to melt all
the slush off and rinse every cranny until the water came off clear. Just running through 
the car wash undercarriage spray does more harm than good--saturates the salt 
and slush that's already
there, but doesn't remove it. I let the car dry outside, then store it inside, 
but only because I hate scraping snow and ice off it before work every morning.

Dan
82 300SD
336K FOR SALE $500 needs trans flush and alt installed
Des Moines



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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[E M]

That's one thing I found with the 300E, over our previous American cars,
that had much looser door and trunk fittings.  Even with a half cm of frozen
ice, the American stuff would open right up.  The Benz is a bear to get
into!  I've had to pour hot water on the Benz a few times, just to get into
it.  Groceries go in the back seat on days like that too.

Ed
300E

On 3 December 2010 10:25, Peter T. Arnold pm7...@comcast.net wrote:

 OK, I flush car off with hot water.

 Than I wait till Easter for it to thaw.



 On 12/3/2010 10:01 AM, theprofil...@dwx.com wrote:

 SNIP


   I also flushed the car after each snowstorm with a lot of hot water from
 a high-pressure spray nozzle on a garden hose--enough to melt all
 the slush off and rinse every cranny until the water came off clear. Just
 running through the car wash undercarriage spray does more harm than
 good--saturates the salt and slush that's already
 there, but doesn't remove it. I let the car dry outside, then store it
 inside, but only because I hate scraping snow and ice off it before work
 every morning.

 Dan
 82 300SD
 336K FOR SALE $500 needs trans flush and alt installed
 Des Moines


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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[Allan Streib]

Be careful hitting cold glass with hot water.  I've cracked a headlight doing 
that.

Allan


On Fri, 03 Dec 2010 10:25 -0500, Peter T. Arnold pm7...@comcast.net wrote:
 OK, I flush car off with hot water.
 
 Than I wait till Easter for it to thaw.
 
 
 
 On 12/3/2010 10:01 AM, theprofil...@dwx.com wrote:
  SNIP
 
I also flushed the car after each snowstorm with a lot of hot water from 
  a high-pressure spray nozzle on a garden hose--enough to melt all
  the slush off and rinse every cranny until the water came off clear. Just 
  running through the car wash undercarriage spray does more harm than 
  good--saturates the salt and slush that's already
  there, but doesn't remove it. I let the car dry outside, then store it 
  inside, but only because I hate scraping snow and ice off it before work 
  every morning.
 
  Dan
  82 300SD
  336K FOR SALE $500 needs trans flush and alt installed
  Des Moines
 

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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[Curt Raymond]

I've noticed that on my 201s as well although I've never had to pour water on. 

On the 123s I've seen an annoying tendency for the locks to freeze. I generally 
keep a wind proof lighter (the one like a small torch) around, it doesn't take 
much heat to clear it up. I've tried all kinds of magic substances (including 
graphite and other lock gunk) but nothing seems to help. These days I don't 
lock the doors much so I don't worry...

-Curt

Date: Fri, 3 Dec 2010 10:41:22 -0500
From: E M pokieba...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality
Message-ID:
    aanlkti=fsvpbejpgdf_trgue1ybsnb_xcab3weuzk...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

That's one thing I found with the 300E, over our previous American cars,
that had much looser door and trunk fittings.  Even with a half cm of frozen
ice, the American stuff would open right up.  The Benz is a bear to get
into!  I've had to pour hot water on the Benz a few times, just to get into
it.  Groceries go in the back seat on days like that too.

Ed
300E

On 3 December 2010 10:25, Peter T. Arnold pm7...@comcast.net wrote:

 OK, I flush car off with hot water.

 Than I wait till Easter for it to thaw.


  
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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[Dieselhead]

Spray all the gaskets with WD40 and wipe to ensure good coverage.



That's one thing I found with the 300E, over our previous American cars,
that had much looser door and trunk fittings.  Even with a half cm of frozen
ice, the American stuff would open right up.  The Benz is a bear to get
into!  I've had to pour hot water on the Benz a few times, just to get into
it.  Groceries go in the back seat on days like that too.

Ed
300E


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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Fri, Dec 3, 2010 at 10:10 AM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:
 Be careful hitting cold glass with hot water.  I've cracked a headlight doing 
 that.


I've cracked a windshield doing that (on my old SLC)!  That's a costly
mistake to learn from...

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Fri, Dec 3, 2010 at 10:44 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
 Spray all the gaskets with WD40 and wipe to ensure good coverage.


Talcum powder works well too.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[E M]

I've used talc on rubber door gaskets too.  Works quite well.  Bit more
forgiving on the winter jackets too. ;-)

Ed
300E

On 3 December 2010 13:55, Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:

 On Fri, Dec 3, 2010 at 10:44 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
  Spray all the gaskets with WD40 and wipe to ensure good coverage.
 

 Talcum powder works well too.

 Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[Craig]

On Fri, 3 Dec 2010 12:44:49 -0600 Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 Spray all the gaskets with WD40 and wipe to ensure good coverage.

But don't you want to keep WD40 away from painted surfaces?

How about glycerine?

The talc idea sounds pretty good.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[Walt Zarnoch]

Hard car wax/candle wax works as well, and is a bit less messy.

Walt
On Dec 3, 2010 2:43 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:
 On Fri, 3 Dec 2010 12:44:49 -0600 Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 Spray all the gaskets with WD40 and wipe to ensure good coverage.

 But don't you want to keep WD40 away from painted surfaces?

 How about glycerine?

 The talc idea sounds pretty good.


 Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[E M]

I think my old porsche manual recommends talc on the door gaskets.

Ed
300E

On 3 December 2010 14:42, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

 On Fri, 3 Dec 2010 12:44:49 -0600 Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

  Spray all the gaskets with WD40 and wipe to ensure good coverage.

 But don't you want to keep WD40 away from painted surfaces?

 How about glycerine?

 The talc idea sounds pretty good.


 Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Fri, Dec 3, 2010 at 11:42 AM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:
 The talc idea sounds pretty good.

It's nice because it goes on dry, doesn't damage paint or chrome if
you are messy with it, and as Ed noted, doesn't do any harm if it gets
on your clothes.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[WILTON]

And smells nice.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, December 03, 2010 2:52 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality



On Fri, Dec 3, 2010 at 11:42 AM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

The talc idea sounds pretty good.


It's nice because it goes on dry, doesn't damage paint or chrome if
you are messy with it, and as Ed noted, doesn't do any harm if it gets
on your clothes.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[Greg Fiorentino]

I have had pretty good luck (on the wife's '79 300TD) with spraying a key
with 100% silicone spray and working it in the lock.

Greg

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Friday, December 03, 2010 10:15 AM
To: Diesel List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

I've noticed that on my 201s as well although I've never had to pour water
on. 

On the 123s I've seen an annoying tendency for the locks to freeze. I
generally keep a wind proof lighter (the one like a small torch) around, it
doesn't take much heat to clear it up. I've tried all kinds of magic
substances (including graphite and other lock gunk) but nothing seems to
help. These days I don't lock the doors much so I don't worry...

-Curt

Date: Fri, 3 Dec 2010 10:41:22 -0500
From: E M pokieba...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality
Message-ID:
    aanlkti=fsvpbejpgdf_trgue1ybsnb_xcab3weuzk...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

That's one thing I found with the 300E, over our previous American cars,
that had much looser door and trunk fittings.  Even with a half cm of frozen
ice, the American stuff would open right up.  The Benz is a bear to get
into!  I've had to pour hot water on the Benz a few times, just to get into
it.  Groceries go in the back seat on days like that too.

Ed
300E

On 3 December 2010 10:25, Peter T. Arnold pm7...@comcast.net wrote:

 OK, I flush car off with hot water.

 Than I wait till Easter for it to thaw.


  
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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[Walt Zarnoch]

The one problem with any wet non-evaporative lubricant in a lock, is that
it will hold dirt/dust/lint/grime/etc.

That being said, it does work wonders when you're in a pinch.

Walt
On Dec 3, 2010 3:05 PM, Greg Fiorentino gf...@dslnorthwest.net wrote:
 I have had pretty good luck (on the wife's '79 300TD) with spraying a key
 with 100% silicone spray and working it in the lock.

 Greg

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
 On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
 Sent: Friday, December 03, 2010 10:15 AM
 To: Diesel List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

 I've noticed that on my 201s as well although I've never had to pour water
 on.

 On the 123s I've seen an annoying tendency for the locks to freeze. I
 generally keep a wind proof lighter (the one like a small torch) around,
it
 doesn't take much heat to clear it up. I've tried all kinds of magic
 substances (including graphite and other lock gunk) but nothing seems to
 help. These days I don't lock the doors much so I don't worry...

 -Curt

 Date: Fri, 3 Dec 2010 10:41:22 -0500
 From: E M pokieba...@gmail.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality
 Message-ID:
 aanlkti=fsvpbejpgdf_trgue1ybsnb_xcab3weuzk...@mail.gmail.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

 That's one thing I found with the 300E, over our previous American cars,
 that had much looser door and trunk fittings.  Even with a half cm of
frozen
 ice, the American stuff would open right up.  The Benz is a bear to get
 into!  I've had to pour hot water on the Benz a few times, just to get
into
 it.  Groceries go in the back seat on days like that too.

 Ed
 300E

 On 3 December 2010 10:25, Peter T. Arnold pm7...@comcast.net wrote:

 OK, I flush car off with hot water.

 Than I wait till Easter for it to thaw.



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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[Peter T. Arnold]

Silicone spay works better and no mess or smell.

-Pete-

On 12/3/2010 1:44 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

Spray all the gaskets with WD40 and wipe to ensure good coverage.



That's one thing I found with the 300E, over our previous American cars,
that had much looser door and trunk fittings.  Even with a half cm of 
frozen

ice, the American stuff would open right up.  The Benz is a bear to get
into!  I've had to pour hot water on the Benz a few times, just to 
get into

it.  Groceries go in the back seat on days like that too.

Ed
300E


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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[E M]

I think I mentioned the story before, where a guy was spraying down his race
car in the pits with Pledge, between practice lap.  When asked, do you find
the wax reduces drag and gives you better lap times?.  He replied, No, but
it makes the cars smell pretty.  hee hee

Ed
300E

On 3 December 2010 15:03, WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:

 And smells nice.

 Wilton

 - Original Message - From: Alex Chamberlain 
 apchamberl...@gmail.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Friday, December 03, 2010 2:52 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality


  On Fri, Dec 3, 2010 at 11:42 AM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

 The talc idea sounds pretty good.


 It's nice because it goes on dry, doesn't damage paint or chrome if
 you are messy with it, and as Ed noted, doesn't do any harm if it gets
 on your clothes.

 Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality

[R A Bennell]

Also makes it easy to remove the bugs. I used Pledge on the windshield 
of my Goldwing.


Randy

On 03/12/2010 3:12 PM, E M wrote:

I think I mentioned the story before, where a guy was spraying down his race
car in the pits with Pledge, between practice lap.  When asked, do you find
the wax reduces drag and gives you better lap times?.  He replied, No, but
it makes the cars smell pretty.  hee hee

Ed
300E

On 3 December 2010 15:03, WILTONwilt...@nc.rr.com  wrote:


And smells nice.

Wilton

- Original Message - From: Alex Chamberlain
apchamberl...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, December 03, 2010 2:52 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust, was Parts quality


  On Fri, Dec 3, 2010 at 11:42 AM, Craigdiese...@pisquared.net  wrote:

The talc idea sounds pretty good.


It's nice because it goes on dry, doesn't damage paint or chrome if
you are messy with it, and as Ed noted, doesn't do any harm if it gets
on your clothes.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Rust removal

[Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310]

Is it kind to plastic key heads on MB keys?  The keys to my new '95 are rusty, 
I suspect from being in sweaty pockets and rarely used (car sat for about 6 
months before I bought, if the PO told the truth).

Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On 
Behalf Of Dimitri Seretakis
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 1:44 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust removal

Chemical composition no, but it is kind to chrome.  Go to garagejournal.com and 
do a search for evaporust on their forum.  

--- On Sun, 11/8/09, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

From: Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust removal
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Date: Sunday, November 8, 2009, 10:47 PM

Do you know what that stuff is?

--R

Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
 Evaporust available at harbor freight.  It is what tool collectors use.

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Nov 8, 2009, at 3:15 PM, Rich Thomas 
 richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 Somehow or other my truck toolbox got some water in it, mostly in the 
 top tray, which rusted some of the tools (a few quite a bit, most not 
 a lot) as they sat in it.  I was going to give the electrolysis method 
 a try, this web site looks like it has a good writeup

 http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm

 Anyone suggest a better method?  I have a 2A battery tender, that seems like 
 it might be OK though this guy says that might be too much.  I have a 5V 
 power supply, not sure what the amperage is on it but probably not a lot. If 
 I put some of the smaller pieces in a metal tray/basket and connect that to 
 the cathode, will that make enough contact to make the process work?

 --R

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Re: [MBZ] Rust removal

[Dimitri Seretakis]

Don't know.  Would probably not use on plastic but you could suspend the metal 
part of the key in the stuff keeping the plastic out.  Or use some superfine 
steel wool and wd-40 or 3in1 oil and rub off the rust.

--- On Mon, 11/9/09, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 
meade.m.dil...@navy.mil wrote:

From: Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 meade.m.dil...@navy.mil
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust removal
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Date: Monday, November 9, 2009, 9:42 AM

Is it kind to plastic key heads on MB keys?  The keys to my new '95 are rusty, 
I suspect from being in sweaty pockets and rarely used (car sat for about 6 
months before I bought, if the PO told the truth).

Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On 
Behalf Of Dimitri Seretakis
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 1:44 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust removal

Chemical composition no, but it is kind to chrome.  Go to garagejournal.com and 
do a search for evaporust on their forum.  

--- On Sun, 11/8/09, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

From: Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust removal
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Date: Sunday, November 8, 2009, 10:47 PM

Do you know what that stuff is?

--R

Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
 Evaporust available at harbor freight.  It is what tool collectors use.

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Nov 8, 2009, at 3:15 PM, Rich Thomas 
 richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 Somehow or other my truck toolbox got some water in it, mostly in the 
 top tray, which rusted some of the tools (a few quite a bit, most not 
 a lot) as they sat in it.  I was going to give the electrolysis method 
 a try, this web site looks like it has a good writeup

 http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm

 Anyone suggest a better method?  I have a 2A battery tender, that seems like 
 it might be OK though this guy says that might be too much.  I have a 5V 
 power supply, not sure what the amperage is on it but probably not a lot. If 
 I put some of the smaller pieces in a metal tray/basket and connect that to 
 the cathode, will that make enough contact to make the process work?

 --R

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[MBZ] Rust removal

[Rich Thomas]

Somehow or other my truck toolbox got some water in it, mostly in the 
top tray, which rusted some of the tools (a few quite a bit, most not a 
lot) as they sat in it.  I was going to give the electrolysis method a 
try, this web site looks like it has a good writeup


http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm

Anyone suggest a better method?  I have a 2A battery tender, that seems 
like it might be OK though this guy says that might be too much.  I have 
a 5V power supply, not sure what the amperage is on it but probably not 
a lot. If I put some of the smaller pieces in a metal tray/basket and 
connect that to the cathode, will that make enough contact to make the 
process work?


--R

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Re: [MBZ] Rust removal

[Rich Thomas]

Hmmm, I just had a thought -- some of the craftsman wrenches are 
probably some chrome moly steel alloy, and the instructions are very 
specific about not using stainless steel in the setup because of chrome 
in SS makes some really nasty stuff.  You think it would suck chrome out 
of the tools?


--R

Rich Thomas wrote:
Somehow or other my truck toolbox got some water in it, mostly in the 
top tray, which rusted some of the tools (a few quite a bit, most not 
a lot) as they sat in it.  I was going to give the electrolysis method 
a try, this web site looks like it has a good writeup


http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm

Anyone suggest a better method?  I have a 2A battery tender, that 
seems like it might be OK though this guy says that might be too 
much.  I have a 5V power supply, not sure what the amperage is on it 
but probably not a lot. If I put some of the smaller pieces in a metal 
tray/basket and connect that to the cathode, will that make enough 
contact to make the process work?


--R

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Re: [MBZ] Rust removal

[Mountain Man]

--Rich wrote:
 You think it would suck chrome out of the tools?

Use the vinegar like the 2nd paragraph sez.
Apples are in season and vinegar is in high production - find someone
milking apples for cider and use apple cider vinegar.
Or, trade the old craftsman for new craftsman? - will they exchange
rusty tools?  I thought their warranty was satisfaction, not broken
only.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] Rust removal

[Jim Cathey]

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm
Anyone suggest a better method?


I've had good luck with it.  I use a battery charger,
and washing soda.

-- Jim



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