Re: [MBZ] Short version of the legendary OM606 superdiesel 1998 Mercedes-Benz e300 td, $3, 800

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

Some dummy will probably come along a pay that much for it. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 16, 2022, at 5:14 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Great candidate for a PU truck conversion.
> 
>> On Fri, Dec 16, 2022 at 4:22 PM Floyd Thursby via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Extra 0 in the price
>> 
>> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/8486725868067344
>> 
>> --
>> --FT
>> 
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Short version of the legendary OM606 superdiesel 1998 Mercedes-Benz e300 td, $3, 800

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

Great candidate for a PU truck conversion.

On Fri, Dec 16, 2022 at 4:22 PM Floyd Thursby via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Extra 0 in the price
>
> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/8486725868067344
>
> --
> --FT
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Short trips in a clean diesel

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

Lots of short trips means it’s probably going to have a clogged up DPF, and 
since it keeps trying to regenerate it’s injecting more fuel but never gets to 
complete. If the price is reasonable might be worth taking a chance on. 
Otherwise short trips are not good with these new diesels. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 11, 2022, at 11:49 AM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am negotiating with a car owner (E250 Buetec sedan) who has driven 5200
> miles worth of short trips (3 miles to work and back).  The fuel economy
> overall is 23.6 mpg.  Could this have caused any fuel line or engine
> issues, e.g. black death?
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Re: [MBZ] Short trips in a clean diesel

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

I really wonder about people.  He is the original owner since 2014...

On Tue, Oct 11, 2022 at 2:11 PM Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> I’d be worried about clogs in the intake and exhaust systems since it
> never has much of a chance to get out of cold start mode
>
> --FT
> Sent from iFōn
>
> > On Oct 11, 2022, at 2:02 PM, Kevin Kraly via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > Lots of short trips in a  Bluetec Diesel would certainly cause oil
> dilution from fuel which leads to engine wear. Has the owner changed the
> oil? I’m sure she’s beggin’ to get on the highway and stretch her legs!
> > Kevin in Lexington, NC
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >> On Oct 11, 2022, at 12:49 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> I am negotiating with a car owner (E250 Buetec sedan) who has driven
> 5200
> >> miles worth of short trips (3 miles to work and back).  The fuel economy
> >> overall is 23.6 mpg.  Could this have caused any fuel line or engine
> >> issues, e.g. black death?
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Re: [MBZ] Short trips in a clean diesel

[Bob Rentfro via Mercedes]

Even THESE, after having CHECKED all the FUSES, want to BE DRIVEN like you 
STOLE it, yes? 

AZBob

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 11, 2022, at 11:02 AM, Kevin Kraly via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Lots of short trips in a  Bluetec Diesel would certainly cause oil dilution 
> from fuel which leads to engine wear. Has the owner changed the oil? I’m sure 
> she’s beggin’ to get on the highway and stretch her legs!
> Kevin in Lexington, NC
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Oct 11, 2022, at 12:49 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I am negotiating with a car owner (E250 Buetec sedan) who has driven 5200
>> miles worth of short trips (3 miles to work and back).  The fuel economy
>> overall is 23.6 mpg.  Could this have caused any fuel line or engine
>> issues, e.g. black death?
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Re: [MBZ] Short trips in a clean diesel

[Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes]

I’d be worried about clogs in the intake and exhaust systems since it never has 
much of a chance to get out of cold start mode

--FT
Sent from iFōn

> On Oct 11, 2022, at 2:02 PM, Kevin Kraly via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Lots of short trips in a  Bluetec Diesel would certainly cause oil dilution 
> from fuel which leads to engine wear. Has the owner changed the oil? I’m sure 
> she’s beggin’ to get on the highway and stretch her legs!
> Kevin in Lexington, NC
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Oct 11, 2022, at 12:49 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I am negotiating with a car owner (E250 Buetec sedan) who has driven 5200
>> miles worth of short trips (3 miles to work and back).  The fuel economy
>> overall is 23.6 mpg.  Could this have caused any fuel line or engine
>> issues, e.g. black death?
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Re: [MBZ] Short trips in a clean diesel

[Kevin Kraly via Mercedes]

Lots of short trips in a  Bluetec Diesel would certainly cause oil dilution 
from fuel which leads to engine wear. Has the owner changed the oil? I’m sure 
she’s beggin’ to get on the highway and stretch her legs!
Kevin in Lexington, NC

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 11, 2022, at 12:49 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am negotiating with a car owner (E250 Buetec sedan) who has driven 5200
> miles worth of short trips (3 miles to work and back).  The fuel economy
> overall is 23.6 mpg.  Could this have caused any fuel line or engine
> issues, e.g. black death?
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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Scott Ritchey via Mercedes]

Doesn't apply in this case but the newer computer cars will draw measurable 
current for several minutes after the battery is connected while the computers 
boot up.  That current should diminish to almost nothing after the computers go 
to sleep.  At least that's what my 2003 GMC pickup does.



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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks Craig!


On 07/25/2018 8:49 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:

On Wed, 25 Jul 2018 14:50:18 -0400 Larry Turner via Mercedes
 wrote:


Hi All,

I have pretty much locked in the procedure of using a Test Light
between the Neg Cable and Neg Post as I look for shorts by pulling
fuses 1 by 1. Thanks for teaching me that new  skill!

You are welcome.



I was hoping I could use the same procedure to find the individual
parts of components to pinpoint the problem?   For instance, the vanity
light may be the culprit - can I put the fuse back in and disable the
vanity light?  Hopefully I can unplug it or just pull the bulb...

Yes, put the fuse back in and disconnect from their power source the
various accessories powered by that fuse. When you reach the correct
(i.e., bad) accessory, the light will go out -- unless two of the
accessories on the fuse have failed at the same time. Then you would
expect to see a change in the brilliance of the test light.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks Randy!  That sounds perfectly logical.  I'll give it a try.  ;-)

Sincerely,

Larry


On 07/25/2018 5:19 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes wrote:

On 25/07/2018 1:50 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote:

Hi All,

I have pretty much locked in the procedure of using a Test Light 
between the Neg Cable and Neg Post as I look for shorts by pulling 
fuses 1 by 1. Thanks for teaching me that new  skill!


I was hoping I could use the same procedure to find the individual 
parts of components to pinpoint the problem?   For instance, the 
vanity light may be the culprit - can I put the fuse back in and 
disable the vanity light?  Hopefully I can unplug it or just pull the 
bulb...


Thanks,

Larry


___ 


I am no expert but since it does not look like you have had any 
response as yet, I will give you my thoughts.

You likely cannot use the test light to test the components.
I would try using a meter. For example, if you suspect the vanity 
light, pull the fuse for it and then test the feed to the vanity 
mirror light for continuity to ground. You probably need to pull the 
bulb too. If you get continuity between the hot side of the bulb 
socket and ground, then you have a short to ground.


RB who suspects someone who knows much more about this sort of thing 
may have a better idea


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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Craig via Mercedes]

On Wed, 25 Jul 2018 14:50:18 -0400 Larry Turner via Mercedes
 wrote:

> Hi All,
> 
> I have pretty much locked in the procedure of using a Test Light
> between the Neg Cable and Neg Post as I look for shorts by pulling
> fuses 1 by 1. Thanks for teaching me that new  skill!

You are welcome.


> I was hoping I could use the same procedure to find the individual
> parts of components to pinpoint the problem?   For instance, the vanity
> light may be the culprit - can I put the fuse back in and disable the
> vanity light?  Hopefully I can unplug it or just pull the bulb...

Yes, put the fuse back in and disconnect from their power source the
various accessories powered by that fuse. When you reach the correct
(i.e., bad) accessory, the light will go out -- unless two of the
accessories on the fuse have failed at the same time. Then you would
expect to see a change in the brilliance of the test light.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Randy Bennell via Mercedes]

On 25/07/2018 1:50 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote:

Hi All,

I have pretty much locked in the procedure of using a Test Light 
between the Neg Cable and Neg Post as I look for shorts by pulling 
fuses 1 by 1. Thanks for teaching me that new  skill!


I was hoping I could use the same procedure to find the individual 
parts of components to pinpoint the problem?   For instance, the 
vanity light may be the culprit - can I put the fuse back in and 
disable the vanity light?  Hopefully I can unplug it or just pull the 
bulb...


Thanks,

Larry


___ 


I am no expert but since it does not look like you have had any response 
as yet, I will give you my thoughts.

You likely cannot use the test light to test the components.
I would try using a meter. For example, if you suspect the vanity light, 
pull the fuse for it and then test the feed to the vanity mirror light 
for continuity to ground. You probably need to pull the bulb too. If you 
get continuity between the hot side of the bulb socket and ground, then 
you have a short to ground.


RB who suspects someone who knows much more about this sort of thing may 
have a better idea


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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi All,

I have pretty much locked in the procedure of using a Test Light between 
the Neg Cable and Neg Post as I look for shorts by pulling fuses 1 by 1. 
Thanks for teaching me that new  skill!


I was hoping I could use the same procedure to find the individual parts 
of components to pinpoint the problem?   For instance, the vanity light 
may be the culprit - can I put the fuse back in and disable the vanity 
light?  Hopefully I can unplug it or just pull the bulb...


Thanks,

Larry


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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

It's time to change the subject back to short - sorry it got off topic -

Larry


On 07/23/2018 10:24 AM, Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote:
That was my fault - when I reported what happened when checking my 
fuses I used the wrong thread to reply to -


Sorry --

Larry


On 07/23/2018 7:54 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:
On July 23, 2018 at 7:19 AM Mitch Haley via Mercedes 
 wrote:


I believe both that and the radio itself have been accused, right 
here in this thread, of causing battery killing current draws.

Oops, not this thread, the short thread.

Mitch

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Re: [MBZ] Short

[G Mann via Mercedes]

I'm a big fan of load testing batteries.
Over the years I've had several NEW batteries fail to pass load test after
only a short time. In each instance, I spent many dollars and much time
trying to sort out my "electrical problem", only
to discover the "new battery" was my electrical problem...

Quick to do... gives good foundation to start sorting other issues.
YMMV.
Grant...

On Sun, Jul 22, 2018 at 7:44 PM, clay monroe via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> The old battery seems to have more life than many newer ones.  But I will
> have to wait to verify this statement until the replacements fail.  What
> they replaced were each at least a decade old.  The SD had one from 2005
> removed last month.  The SDL was around 2003  IIRC when a fresh on went in
> December 2017
>
> clay
>
> 1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
> 1986 SDL - Polei
> 1982 300 SD - Allen
>
> retired models-
> 2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately & well tailored crap
> 1976 300D - Blei Vanst - it looks silvery
> 1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
> 1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
> POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Jul 21, 2018, at 5:06 AM, Larry Turner via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > It seems to me batteries are lasting much longer than they used to - I
> got 13 years from a Optima I bought mid 2000.   But the replacement I
> bought lasted 5 years so who knows.  I have several lead acid batteries
> bought in 2013 still alive and well...
> >
> > Having found out that I have a short of some kind at work forces me to
> take another look at the battery I removed from the 300D, especially given
> your neighbors experience with the AC clutch...
> >
> > LarryT.
> >
> >
> > On 07/20/2018 7:38 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:
> >> Had a weird one this week.
> >> Neighbor can't start his truck. (1996 Chevy 1500 pickup)
> >> Puts it on the charger, drives his wife's truck to work.
> >> Calls me up and asks me to look at it, he doesn't think it's charging.
> >> I go over there and it's DEAD, like Larry's car after being parked all
> week with a big current draw, but his truck did it overnight. I jump start
> his 'smart' charger with my 'dumb' charger.
> >> Six hours later, it's still charging.
> >> He gets home, it starts right up, alternator is working fine.
> >> He'll leave it on the charger until the charger shuts off.
> >> Next morning it's still charging, he buys new battery.
> >>
> >> While putting new battery in, he hears a clicking noise.
> >> Calls me over to investigate, it's his AC clutch. It's engaging as soon
> as you hook up the battery, with the key out of the truck and the AC off,
> in fact he never turned it on as long as he owned the truck. Pull the AC
> relay, no more clicking. And probably nothing wrong with the battery he
> just traded in. (Autozone Duralast battery dated 11/2007)
> >>
> >> Mitch.
> >>
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> >
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Re: [MBZ] Short

[clay monroe via Mercedes]

The old battery seems to have more life than many newer ones.  But I will have 
to wait to verify this statement until the replacements fail.  What they 
replaced were each at least a decade old.  The SD had one from 2005 removed 
last month.  The SDL was around 2003  IIRC when a fresh on went in December 2017

clay 

1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1986 SDL - Polei
1982 300 SD - Allen

retired models-
2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately & well tailored crap
1976 300D - Blei Vanst - it looks silvery
1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers







> On Jul 21, 2018, at 5:06 AM, Larry Turner via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> It seems to me batteries are lasting much longer than they used to - I got 13 
> years from a Optima I bought mid 2000.   But the replacement I bought lasted 
> 5 years so who knows.  I have several lead acid batteries bought in 2013 
> still alive and well...
> 
> Having found out that I have a short of some kind at work forces me to take 
> another look at the battery I removed from the 300D, especially given your 
> neighbors experience with the AC clutch...
> 
> LarryT.
> 
> 
> On 07/20/2018 7:38 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:
>> Had a weird one this week.
>> Neighbor can't start his truck. (1996 Chevy 1500 pickup)
>> Puts it on the charger, drives his wife's truck to work.
>> Calls me up and asks me to look at it, he doesn't think it's charging.
>> I go over there and it's DEAD, like Larry's car after being parked all week 
>> with a big current draw, but his truck did it overnight. I jump start his 
>> 'smart' charger with my 'dumb' charger.
>> Six hours later, it's still charging.
>> He gets home, it starts right up, alternator is working fine.
>> He'll leave it on the charger until the charger shuts off.
>> Next morning it's still charging, he buys new battery.
>> 
>> While putting new battery in, he hears a clicking noise.
>> Calls me over to investigate, it's his AC clutch. It's engaging as soon as 
>> you hook up the battery, with the key out of the truck and the AC off, in 
>> fact he never turned it on as long as he owned the truck. Pull the AC relay, 
>> no more clicking. And probably nothing wrong with the battery he just traded 
>> in. (Autozone Duralast battery dated 11/2007)
>> 
>> Mitch.
>> 
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>> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

When I had inexplicable battery drain, I pulled the antenna elektrick 
plug, and the drain was gone.


One other time, it was inside the Becker radio.


Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote:

Hey Max,

No problem!  It's all a learning experience -

I'll go back and read the procedure for the test you suggest.  Do I 
pull them all or 1 at a time?


  Since I'm measuring Current I assume I do need to change the leads.  
Never mind, I think I figured it out. ;-)  Except for the details 
about the test.


I think I'll also do as Craig suggested.  But I still want to learn 
how to test by pulling the fuses.  I'll go back and re-read your emails.


Thanks again,

Larry



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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hey Max,

No problem!  It's all a learning experience -

I'll go back and read the procedure for the test you suggest.  Do I pull 
them all or 1 at a time?


  Since I'm measuring Current I assume I do need to change the leads.  
Never mind, I think I figured it out. ;-)  Except for the details about 
the test.


I think I'll also do as Craig suggested.  But I still want to learn how 
to test by pulling the fuses.  I'll go back and re-read your emails.


Thanks again,

Larry


On 07/21/2018 6:49 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Larry,

Very sorry, my test was a bad test.  I didn't take into account that the
fuse is on the wrong side of the switches for those circuits, so you
basically acted as the switch and energized those circuits so they turned
on whatever was on that circuit.

So we are back to pulling each fuse, and measuring the current draw across
the fuse terminals.

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Sat, Jul 21, 2018 at 5:55 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


Hi Max, After re-reading your post I'm wondering if I am doing something
wrong.  Here's the numbers I got:

1 - 0.0
2  - 5.78
3 - 5.84
4 - 23-19
5 - 33.36
6 - 33.41
7 - 33.24
8 - 23.24
9 - 9.07
10 - 5.75
11 - 0.0
12 - 0.0
13 - 63.5
14 - 64.0
15 - 91.6 (Headlights)
16 - 0.0
A - 0.0
B - 33.1
C - 6.08
D - 6.19
E  - 0.0
F - 0.0
G - 0.0
H  - 0.0

I set the DMM to read mA with the 15A port and the black in the4 Com
port..  I triple checked the plugs/ports to be sure I did as instructed.
When I tested # 15 the headlights came on - another sounded the horn - made
me jump ;-)
So I think I was doing it right but my numbers are so fr off it seems at
odds to what you said...

One more think - My DMM said to measure 0-400 mA use the  mA symbol (which
I used) and for greater than 400 it said to set the selector to 15A - which
I did not use.  So I think that's correct.  My results are so wildly at
odds to what you said I might see it makes me wonder what might be going
on...  BTW, I went through the numbers twice - the 2nd time I wrote the
results down -  the 1st time I checked them I noticed they looked strange.

What do you think?   If the Alt has a shorted diode would it affect
several circuits? hmmm...

Thanks!
Larry




On 07/20/2018 7:50 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:


If the problem is not the glow relay, the easiest way is to disconnect
the positive battery terminal, set your meter for measuring current, put
one lead on the positive battery post and use the other to touch each fuse
in turn.  Any fuse that draws more than ten or fifteen milli amps is
suspect.


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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks Craig, That sounds easy enough - I even have a bulb with leads on it for 
this kind of test.  Or, I could use my store bought test Light. ;-)  (a little 
light finally came on, ... get it?... ;-)

Larry


On 07/21/2018 6:59 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:

On Sat, 21 Jul 2018 18:49:06 -0400 Meade Dillon via Mercedes
 wrote:


Larry,

Very sorry, my test was a bad test.  I didn't take into account that the
fuse is on the wrong side of the switches for those circuits, so you
basically acted as the switch and energized those circuits so they
turned on whatever was on that circuit.

So we are back to pulling each fuse, and measuring the current draw
across the fuse terminals.

Or put a light bulb between the battery's negative terminal and the
(removed) negative cable, noting the bulb is lit (dimly or brightly)
and then pulling and replacing fuses until you find the one which makes
it go out.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

I agree that is a possibility.  I'll investigate it.

Thanks,

LarryT


On 07/21/2018 5:34 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:

Don't overlook the value of load testing the battery. If it has a cell
internally shorted, it would self discharge much as you describe.
A load test will show that problem, if you have it. From what you've
described.. I suspect the battery may have "issues".

On Sat, Jul 21, 2018 at 2:26 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


Thanks Scott!  Every detail helps!

Larry


On 07/21/2018 4:26 PM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes wrote:


If none of the fuses stop the drain, check out the alternator.  The
alternator connects to the battery without a fuse and a bad alternator
diode would drain the battery.

-Original Message-

From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
Larry Turner via Mercedes
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2018 9:06 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: Larry Turner 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Short

Thanks for all the great replies!  - I will investigate today I hope -
temp is
supposed to be in the 70s so it should be nice outside.  Just found the
humidity
is 100% - Yuck!

Thanks again to all who responded -

LarryT



On 07/20/2018 7:50 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:


If the problem is not the glow relay, the easiest way is to disconnect
the


positive battery terminal, set your meter for measuring current, put one
lead
on the positive battery post and use the other to touch each fuse in
turn.  Any
fuse that draws more than ten or fifteen milli amps is suspect.


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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Craig via Mercedes]

On Sat, 21 Jul 2018 18:49:06 -0400 Meade Dillon via Mercedes
 wrote:

> Larry,
> 
> Very sorry, my test was a bad test.  I didn't take into account that the
> fuse is on the wrong side of the switches for those circuits, so you
> basically acted as the switch and energized those circuits so they
> turned on whatever was on that circuit.
> 
> So we are back to pulling each fuse, and measuring the current draw
> across the fuse terminals.

Or put a light bulb between the battery's negative terminal and the
(removed) negative cable, noting the bulb is lit (dimly or brightly)
and then pulling and replacing fuses until you find the one which makes
it go out.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

Larry,

Very sorry, my test was a bad test.  I didn't take into account that the
fuse is on the wrong side of the switches for those circuits, so you
basically acted as the switch and energized those circuits so they turned
on whatever was on that circuit.

So we are back to pulling each fuse, and measuring the current draw across
the fuse terminals.

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Sat, Jul 21, 2018 at 5:55 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Hi Max, After re-reading your post I'm wondering if I am doing something
> wrong.  Here's the numbers I got:
>
> 1 - 0.0
> 2  - 5.78
> 3 - 5.84
> 4 - 23-19
> 5 - 33.36
> 6 - 33.41
> 7 - 33.24
> 8 - 23.24
> 9 - 9.07
> 10 - 5.75
> 11 - 0.0
> 12 - 0.0
> 13 - 63.5
> 14 - 64.0
> 15 - 91.6 (Headlights)
> 16 - 0.0
> A - 0.0
> B - 33.1
> C - 6.08
> D - 6.19
> E  - 0.0
> F - 0.0
> G - 0.0
> H  - 0.0
>
> I set the DMM to read mA with the 15A port and the black in the4 Com
> port..  I triple checked the plugs/ports to be sure I did as instructed.
> When I tested # 15 the headlights came on - another sounded the horn - made
> me jump ;-)
> So I think I was doing it right but my numbers are so fr off it seems at
> odds to what you said...
>
> One more think - My DMM said to measure 0-400 mA use the  mA symbol (which
> I used) and for greater than 400 it said to set the selector to 15A - which
> I did not use.  So I think that's correct.  My results are so wildly at
> odds to what you said I might see it makes me wonder what might be going
> on...  BTW, I went through the numbers twice - the 2nd time I wrote the
> results down -  the 1st time I checked them I noticed they looked strange.
>
> What do you think?   If the Alt has a shorted diode would it affect
> several circuits? hmmm...
>
> Thanks!
> Larry
>
>
>
>
> On 07/20/2018 7:50 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:
>
>> If the problem is not the glow relay, the easiest way is to disconnect
>> the positive battery terminal, set your meter for measuring current, put
>> one lead on the positive battery post and use the other to touch each fuse
>> in turn.  Any fuse that draws more than ten or fifteen milli amps is
>> suspect.
>>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Max, After re-reading your post I'm wondering if I am doing something 
wrong.  Here's the numbers I got:


1 - 0.0
2  - 5.78
3 - 5.84
4 - 23-19
5 - 33.36
6 - 33.41
7 - 33.24
8 - 23.24
9 - 9.07
10 - 5.75
11 - 0.0
12 - 0.0
13 - 63.5
14 - 64.0
15 - 91.6 (Headlights)
16 - 0.0
A - 0.0
B - 33.1
C - 6.08
D - 6.19
E  - 0.0
F - 0.0
G - 0.0
H  - 0.0

I set the DMM to read mA with the 15A port and the black in the4 Com 
port..  I triple checked the plugs/ports to be sure I did as 
instructed.  When I tested # 15 the headlights came on - another sounded 
the horn - made me jump ;-)
So I think I was doing it right but my numbers are so fr off it seems at 
odds to what you said...


One more think - My DMM said to measure 0-400 mA use the  mA symbol 
(which I used) and for greater than 400 it said to set the selector to 
15A - which I did not use.  So I think that's correct.  My results are 
so wildly at odds to what you said I might see it makes me wonder what 
might be going on...  BTW, I went through the numbers twice - the 2nd 
time I wrote the results down -  the 1st time I checked them I noticed 
they looked strange.


What do you think?   If the Alt has a shorted diode would it affect 
several circuits? hmmm...


Thanks!
Larry



On 07/20/2018 7:50 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

If the problem is not the glow relay, the easiest way is to disconnect the 
positive battery terminal, set your meter for measuring current, put one lead 
on the positive battery post and use the other to touch each fuse in turn.  Any 
fuse that draws more than ten or fifteen milli amps is suspect.


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Re: [MBZ] Short

[G Mann via Mercedes]

Don't overlook the value of load testing the battery. If it has a cell
internally shorted, it would self discharge much as you describe.
A load test will show that problem, if you have it. From what you've
described.. I suspect the battery may have "issues".

On Sat, Jul 21, 2018 at 2:26 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Thanks Scott!  Every detail helps!
>
> Larry
>
>
> On 07/21/2018 4:26 PM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes wrote:
>
>> If none of the fuses stop the drain, check out the alternator.  The
>> alternator connects to the battery without a fuse and a bad alternator
>> diode would drain the battery.
>>
>> -Original Message-
>>> From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
>>> Larry Turner via Mercedes
>>> Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2018 9:06 AM
>>> To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
>>> Cc: Larry Turner 
>>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Short
>>>
>>> Thanks for all the great replies!  - I will investigate today I hope -
>>> temp is
>>> supposed to be in the 70s so it should be nice outside.  Just found the
>>> humidity
>>> is 100% - Yuck!
>>>
>>> Thanks again to all who responded -
>>>
>>> LarryT
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On 07/20/2018 7:50 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:
>>>
>>>> If the problem is not the glow relay, the easiest way is to disconnect
>>>> the
>>>>
>>> positive battery terminal, set your meter for measuring current, put one
>>> lead
>>> on the positive battery post and use the other to touch each fuse in
>>> turn.  Any
>>> fuse that draws more than ten or fifteen milli amps is suspect.
>>>
>>>
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>>>
>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>>
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>>
>>
>>
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>>
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>>
>>
>>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks Scott!  Every detail helps!

Larry


On 07/21/2018 4:26 PM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes wrote:

If none of the fuses stop the drain, check out the alternator.  The alternator 
connects to the battery without a fuse and a bad alternator diode would drain 
the battery.


-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
Larry Turner via Mercedes
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2018 9:06 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: Larry Turner 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Short

Thanks for all the great replies!  - I will investigate today I hope - temp is
supposed to be in the 70s so it should be nice outside.  Just found the humidity
is 100% - Yuck!

Thanks again to all who responded -

LarryT



On 07/20/2018 7:50 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

If the problem is not the glow relay, the easiest way is to disconnect the

positive battery terminal, set your meter for measuring current, put one lead
on the positive battery post and use the other to touch each fuse in turn.  Any
fuse that draws more than ten or fifteen milli amps is suspect.


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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Scott Ritchey via Mercedes]

If none of the fuses stop the drain, check out the alternator.  The alternator 
connects to the battery without a fuse and a bad alternator diode would drain 
the battery.

> -Original Message-
> From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
> Larry Turner via Mercedes
> Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2018 9:06 AM
> To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
> Cc: Larry Turner 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Short
> 
> Thanks for all the great replies!  - I will investigate today I hope - temp is
> supposed to be in the 70s so it should be nice outside.  Just found the 
> humidity
> is 100% - Yuck!
> 
> Thanks again to all who responded -
> 
> LarryT
> 
> 
> 
> On 07/20/2018 7:50 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:
> > If the problem is not the glow relay, the easiest way is to disconnect the
> positive battery terminal, set your meter for measuring current, put one lead
> on the positive battery post and use the other to touch each fuse in turn.  
> Any
> fuse that draws more than ten or fifteen milli amps is suspect.
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks Craig!


On 07/21/2018 10:53 AM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:

On Sat, 21 Jul 2018 09:27:30 -0400 Larry Turner via Mercedes
 wrote:


Hi Max, one more thing then I should be good to go test - this is what
I want to be testing: AC/DC CURRENT MEASUREMENT (AMPS), right?  I need
to be sure I am reading the right section of the manual.   If this is
right, you are correct that measuring Amps requires different plug
positions to be used.  \

You can also use a tail light or brake light bulb instead of the meter to
track down draws. The brake light bulb would be for large draws; the tail
light bulb would be for small draws.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Craig via Mercedes]

On Sat, 21 Jul 2018 09:27:30 -0400 Larry Turner via Mercedes
 wrote:

> Hi Max, one more thing then I should be good to go test - this is what
> I want to be testing: AC/DC CURRENT MEASUREMENT (AMPS), right?  I need
> to be sure I am reading the right section of the manual.   If this is 
> right, you are correct that measuring Amps requires different plug 
> positions to be used.  \

You can also use a tail light or brake light bulb instead of the meter to
track down draws. The brake light bulb would be for large draws; the tail
light bulb would be for small draws.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Happy with it?  I shouldn't think about another meter - I have 3 or 4 - 
but I've always wanted a clamp.


BTW, one of my meters is a Innova 3340A Automotive Tester - I am still 
learning its capabilities but one of the things I like most is it has a 
Dwell function - when I set the points on my 911 I used it and it 
allowed me to set dwell to hundreths!  Not that precision to that level 
is needed - I have a spread of 6 degrees and am usually happy if I am 
anywhere between the high and low - but it's nice to have that function.


It also has Temp and all the normal things on DMMs.

Anyway, I might be interested in a clamp meter  I hate needing a 
tool and not having it,.


Larry


On 07/21/2018 9:57 AM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes wrote:

Max sez:


Correct, you've got it.  A great way to learn a new skill like this is by
video on Youtube.  I'm tempted to make one myself right now...

I've been tempted to start making videos myself.
I might just follow through on that.
As a side note, here is the meter I
purchased for such things.



Rick
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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Rick Knoble via Mercedes]

Max sez:

>Correct, you've got it.  A great way to learn a new skill like this is by
>video on Youtube.  I'm tempted to make one myself right now...

I've been tempted to start making videos myself.
I might just follow through on that.
As a side note, here is the meter I
purchased for such things.



Rick
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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Good suggestion -  I'll check YT before I go out -

Larry


On 07/21/2018 9:39 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Correct, you've got it.  A great way to learn a new skill like this is by
video on Youtube.  I'm tempted to make one myself right now...

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Sat, Jul 21, 2018 at 9:27 AM, Larry Turner via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


Hi Max, one more thing then I should be good to go test - this is what I
want to be testing: AC/DC CURRENT MEASUREMENT (AMPS), right?  I need to be
sure I am reading the right section of the manual.   If this is right, you
are correct that measuring Amps requires different plug positions to be
used.  \

Thanks!


On 07/21/2018 9:16 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:


When the positive cable is off, no current can flow.  When you put your
meter between the battery+ and the fuse, your DMM completes the circuit so
that current can flow through your DMM.  Make sure to set the DMM to
measure amps and on most you also have to move the positive lead from one
hole / connection on the DMM to a different connection.  The fuses are
still left in their holders in the fuse box.

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Sat, Jul 21, 2018 at 8:10 AM, Larry Turner via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

I'm confused - nothing new there - if I disconnect the + cable then touch

my DMM between the + post and the fuses I wouldn't think there could be
any
fuse to draw anything - or am I missing something?  Without the cable
connected there's no circuit, right?

Thx

Larry


On 07/20/2018 7:50 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

If the problem is not the glow relay, the easiest way is to disconnect

the positive battery terminal, set your meter for measuring current, put
one lead on the positive battery post and use the other to touch each
fuse
in turn.  Any fuse that draws more than ten or fifteen milli amps is
suspect.



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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

Correct, you've got it.  A great way to learn a new skill like this is by
video on Youtube.  I'm tempted to make one myself right now...

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Sat, Jul 21, 2018 at 9:27 AM, Larry Turner via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Hi Max, one more thing then I should be good to go test - this is what I
> want to be testing: AC/DC CURRENT MEASUREMENT (AMPS), right?  I need to be
> sure I am reading the right section of the manual.   If this is right, you
> are correct that measuring Amps requires different plug positions to be
> used.  \
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> On 07/21/2018 9:16 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:
>
>> When the positive cable is off, no current can flow.  When you put your
>> meter between the battery+ and the fuse, your DMM completes the circuit so
>> that current can flow through your DMM.  Make sure to set the DMM to
>> measure amps and on most you also have to move the positive lead from one
>> hole / connection on the DMM to a different connection.  The fuses are
>> still left in their holders in the fuse box.
>>
>> -
>> Max
>> Charleston SC
>>
>> On Sat, Jul 21, 2018 at 8:10 AM, Larry Turner via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>
>> I'm confused - nothing new there - if I disconnect the + cable then touch
>>> my DMM between the + post and the fuses I wouldn't think there could be
>>> any
>>> fuse to draw anything - or am I missing something?  Without the cable
>>> connected there's no circuit, right?
>>>
>>> Thx
>>>
>>> Larry
>>>
>>>
>>> On 07/20/2018 7:50 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:
>>>
>>> If the problem is not the glow relay, the easiest way is to disconnect
 the positive battery terminal, set your meter for measuring current, put
 one lead on the positive battery post and use the other to touch each
 fuse
 in turn.  Any fuse that draws more than ten or fifteen milli amps is
 suspect.


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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Understood =


On 07/21/2018 9:17 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

No, the light is just a timer that comes on when the relay is initially
energized, if the relay is coming on and then sticking on, timer only
lights up the light once and then shuts off until the next cycle.

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Sat, Jul 21, 2018 at 8:01 AM, Larry Turner via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


Hi Max,

If the GPR is sticking on,, would the GP light be on?   I may know the
answer but I'll ask anyway - my 240D had a relay that would come on at
random times - only indication I recall is the headlights would get dim for
a few seconds.  But I don't recall if the light came on

Anyway - something important to check - and I have a spare GPR on the
shelf :-)

LarryT


On 07/20/2018 7:21 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:


The pre-glow relay is notorious for sticking on and killing the battery.
   With the engine off and a fully charged battery, checck the battery
voltage with the battery connected.  Disconnect or remove the fuse for the
relay, see if the voltage increases.  If you see a jump, the relay is
sticking.  You may want to start the car, let it run a bit, then shut it
off and repeat the test.



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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Max, one more thing then I should be good to go test - this is what I 
want to be testing: AC/DC CURRENT MEASUREMENT (AMPS), right?  I need to 
be sure I am reading the right section of the manual.   If this is 
right, you are correct that measuring Amps requires different plug 
positions to be used.  \


Thanks!


On 07/21/2018 9:16 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

When the positive cable is off, no current can flow.  When you put your
meter between the battery+ and the fuse, your DMM completes the circuit so
that current can flow through your DMM.  Make sure to set the DMM to
measure amps and on most you also have to move the positive lead from one
hole / connection on the DMM to a different connection.  The fuses are
still left in their holders in the fuse box.

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Sat, Jul 21, 2018 at 8:10 AM, Larry Turner via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


I'm confused - nothing new there - if I disconnect the + cable then touch
my DMM between the + post and the fuses I wouldn't think there could be any
fuse to draw anything - or am I missing something?  Without the cable
connected there's no circuit, right?

Thx

Larry


On 07/20/2018 7:50 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:


If the problem is not the glow relay, the easiest way is to disconnect
the positive battery terminal, set your meter for measuring current, put
one lead on the positive battery post and use the other to touch each fuse
in turn.  Any fuse that draws more than ten or fifteen milli amps is
suspect.



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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks Max - makes perfect sense now - sorry I needed that extra 
explanation -


OK, I'll get the instructions out for the DMM so i have the cables set 
correctly - thanks for that suggestion.  V Helpful.


Larry


On 07/21/2018 9:16 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

When the positive cable is off, no current can flow.  When you put your
meter between the battery+ and the fuse, your DMM completes the circuit so
that current can flow through your DMM.  Make sure to set the DMM to
measure amps and on most you also have to move the positive lead from one
hole / connection on the DMM to a different connection.  The fuses are
still left in their holders in the fuse box.

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Sat, Jul 21, 2018 at 8:10 AM, Larry Turner via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


I'm confused - nothing new there - if I disconnect the + cable then touch
my DMM between the + post and the fuses I wouldn't think there could be any
fuse to draw anything - or am I missing something?  Without the cable
connected there's no circuit, right?

Thx

Larry


On 07/20/2018 7:50 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:


If the problem is not the glow relay, the easiest way is to disconnect
the positive battery terminal, set your meter for measuring current, put
one lead on the positive battery post and use the other to touch each fuse
in turn.  Any fuse that draws more than ten or fifteen milli amps is
suspect.



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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

No, the light is just a timer that comes on when the relay is initially
energized, if the relay is coming on and then sticking on, timer only
lights up the light once and then shuts off until the next cycle.

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Sat, Jul 21, 2018 at 8:01 AM, Larry Turner via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Hi Max,
>
> If the GPR is sticking on,, would the GP light be on?   I may know the
> answer but I'll ask anyway - my 240D had a relay that would come on at
> random times - only indication I recall is the headlights would get dim for
> a few seconds.  But I don't recall if the light came on
>
> Anyway - something important to check - and I have a spare GPR on the
> shelf :-)
>
> LarryT
>
>
> On 07/20/2018 7:21 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:
>
>> The pre-glow relay is notorious for sticking on and killing the battery.
>>   With the engine off and a fully charged battery, checck the battery
>> voltage with the battery connected.  Disconnect or remove the fuse for the
>> relay, see if the voltage increases.  If you see a jump, the relay is
>> sticking.  You may want to start the car, let it run a bit, then shut it
>> off and repeat the test.
>>
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

When the positive cable is off, no current can flow.  When you put your
meter between the battery+ and the fuse, your DMM completes the circuit so
that current can flow through your DMM.  Make sure to set the DMM to
measure amps and on most you also have to move the positive lead from one
hole / connection on the DMM to a different connection.  The fuses are
still left in their holders in the fuse box.

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Sat, Jul 21, 2018 at 8:10 AM, Larry Turner via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> I'm confused - nothing new there - if I disconnect the + cable then touch
> my DMM between the + post and the fuses I wouldn't think there could be any
> fuse to draw anything - or am I missing something?  Without the cable
> connected there's no circuit, right?
>
> Thx
>
> Larry
>
>
> On 07/20/2018 7:50 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:
>
>> If the problem is not the glow relay, the easiest way is to disconnect
>> the positive battery terminal, set your meter for measuring current, put
>> one lead on the positive battery post and use the other to touch each fuse
>> in turn.  Any fuse that draws more than ten or fifteen milli amps is
>> suspect.
>>
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks for all the great replies!  - I will investigate today I hope - 
temp is supposed to be in the 70s so it should be nice outside.  Just 
found the humidity is 100% - Yuck!


Thanks again to all who responded -

LarryT



On 07/20/2018 7:50 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

If the problem is not the glow relay, the easiest way is to disconnect the 
positive battery terminal, set your meter for measuring current, put one lead 
on the positive battery post and use the other to touch each fuse in turn.  Any 
fuse that draws more than ten or fifteen milli amps is suspect.



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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Peter,

Ok, I think I understand now.  Thanks for the explanation -  I may try 
both methods to see what happens.


For some reason my brain understands the 2nd method described below.

But it still seems like something is missing from the 1st method - if 
the + cable is disconnected, how can there be a hot side of the fuse?  
Seems like neither side would be getting 12v, but I never fully 
understood electrical stuff


Thanks -
Larry


On 07/21/2018 8:46 AM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:

You meter is completing the circuit if you are touching the "hot" (battery) 
side of the fuse.

You can do the same thing by pulling the battery cable and connecting the meter 
between the cable and the battery post, then pulling fuses to see when the 
current flow drops off.

Peter
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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Peter Frederick via Mercedes]

You meter is completing the circuit if you are touching the "hot" (battery) 
side of the fuse.

You can do the same thing by pulling the battery cable and connecting the meter 
between the cable and the battery post, then pulling fuses to see when the 
current flow drops off.

Peter
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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

I'm confused - nothing new there - if I disconnect the + cable then 
touch my DMM between the + post and the fuses I wouldn't think there 
could be any fuse to draw anything - or am I missing something?  Without 
the cable connected there's no circuit, right?


Thx

Larry


On 07/20/2018 7:50 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

If the problem is not the glow relay, the easiest way is to disconnect the 
positive battery terminal, set your meter for measuring current, put one lead 
on the positive battery post and use the other to touch each fuse in turn.  Any 
fuse that draws more than ten or fifteen milli amps is suspect.



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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

It seems to me batteries are lasting much longer than they used to - I 
got 13 years from a Optima I bought mid 2000.   But the replacement I 
bought lasted 5 years so who knows.  I have several lead acid batteries 
bought in 2013 still alive and well...


Having found out that I have a short of some kind at work forces me to 
take another look at the battery I removed from the 300D, especially 
given your neighbors experience with the AC clutch...


LarryT.


On 07/20/2018 7:38 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

Had a weird one this week.
Neighbor can't start his truck. (1996 Chevy 1500 pickup)
Puts it on the charger, drives his wife's truck to work.
Calls me up and asks me to look at it, he doesn't think it's charging.
I go over there and it's DEAD, like Larry's car after being parked all week 
with a big current draw, but his truck did it overnight. I jump start his 
'smart' charger with my 'dumb' charger.
Six hours later, it's still charging.
He gets home, it starts right up, alternator is working fine.
He'll leave it on the charger until the charger shuts off.
Next morning it's still charging, he buys new battery.

While putting new battery in, he hears a clicking noise.
Calls me over to investigate, it's his AC clutch. It's engaging as soon as you 
hook up the battery, with the key out of the truck and the AC off, in fact he 
never turned it on as long as he owned the truck. Pull the AC relay, no more 
clicking. And probably nothing wrong with the battery he just traded in. 
(Autozone Duralast battery dated 11/2007)

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Max,

If the GPR is sticking on,, would the GP light be on?   I may know the 
answer but I'll ask anyway - my 240D had a relay that would come on at 
random times - only indication I recall is the headlights would get dim 
for a few seconds.  But I don't recall if the light came on


Anyway - something important to check - and I have a spare GPR on the 
shelf :-)


LarryT


On 07/20/2018 7:21 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

The pre-glow relay is notorious for sticking on and killing the battery.
With the engine off and a fully charged battery, checck the battery voltage 
with the battery connected.  Disconnect or remove the fuse for the relay, see 
if the voltage increases.  If you see a jump, the relay is sticking.  You may 
want to start the car, let it run a bit, then shut it off and repeat the test.



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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

If the problem is not the glow relay, the easiest way is to disconnect the 
positive battery terminal, set your meter for measuring current, put one lead 
on the positive battery post and use the other to touch each fuse in turn.  Any 
fuse that draws more than ten or fifteen milli amps is suspect.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

On July 20, 2018 6:21:29 PM EDT, Larry Turner via Mercedes 
 wrote:
>Hi Gang!
>
>Tuesday, I put the spare battery from the 240D in my 91 300D and it 
>fired right up without any charging needed.  I put my DMM on it and it 
>read in excess of 13V and after the GPs heated it fired instantly.
>
>Today, I planned to start it and maybe run it around the block - maybe 
>more just to give it some exercise but when we turned the key, not even
>
>the lights in the dash are lit!  So I got my DMM again and checked the 
>voltage in the battery and it is down to a little over 2!  But I can 
>charge it.  I disconnected the neg cable and it is charging at 40amps.
>
>My question is (finally, right?) and I need to know how to find the 
>short.  Just out of curiosity I checked the Fuses and found fuse "C"
>was 
>blown - something unusual - I checked the map and C protects the seat 
>motors, Trunk Light and some other stuff - I'll write all of that down 
>shortly.
>
>So, I can disconnect the battery to prevent discharge but I'm wondering
>
>how to troubleshoot what I always called a dead short.
>
>I can pull the fuses one by one and check the rate of discharge but
>with 
>so many fuses that'll take a while.
>
>Thx,
>
>LarryT
>
>91 300D
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

Had a weird one this week. 
Neighbor can't start his truck. (1996 Chevy 1500 pickup)
Puts it on the charger, drives his wife's truck to work. 
Calls me up and asks me to look at it, he doesn't think it's charging. 
I go over there and it's DEAD, like Larry's car after being parked all week 
with a big current draw, but his truck did it overnight. I jump start his 
'smart' charger with my 'dumb' charger. 
Six hours later, it's still charging. 
He gets home, it starts right up, alternator is working fine. 
He'll leave it on the charger until the charger shuts off. 
Next morning it's still charging, he buys new battery. 

While putting new battery in, he hears a clicking noise.
Calls me over to investigate, it's his AC clutch. It's engaging as soon as you 
hook up the battery, with the key out of the truck and the AC off, in fact he 
never turned it on as long as he owned the truck. Pull the AC relay, no more 
clicking. And probably nothing wrong with the battery he just traded in. 
(Autozone Duralast battery dated 11/2007)

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

The pre-glow relay is notorious for sticking on and killing the battery.
With the engine off and a fully charged battery, checck the battery voltage 
with the battery connected.  Disconnect or remove the fuse for the relay, see 
if the voltage increases.  If you see a jump, the relay is sticking.  You may 
want to start the car, let it run a bit, then shut it off and repeat the test.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

On July 20, 2018 6:21:29 PM EDT, Larry Turner via Mercedes 
 wrote:
>Hi Gang!
>
>Tuesday, I put the spare battery from the 240D in my 91 300D and it 
>fired right up without any charging needed.  I put my DMM on it and it 
>read in excess of 13V and after the GPs heated it fired instantly.
>
>Today, I planned to start it and maybe run it around the block - maybe 
>more just to give it some exercise but when we turned the key, not even
>
>the lights in the dash are lit!  So I got my DMM again and checked the 
>voltage in the battery and it is down to a little over 2!  But I can 
>charge it.  I disconnected the neg cable and it is charging at 40amps.
>
>My question is (finally, right?) and I need to know how to find the 
>short.  Just out of curiosity I checked the Fuses and found fuse "C"
>was 
>blown - something unusual - I checked the map and C protects the seat 
>motors, Trunk Light and some other stuff - I'll write all of that down 
>shortly.
>
>So, I can disconnect the battery to prevent discharge but I'm wondering
>
>how to troubleshoot what I always called a dead short.
>
>I can pull the fuses one by one and check the rate of discharge but
>with 
>so many fuses that'll take a while.
>
>Thx,
>
>LarryT
>
>91 300D
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Short lived dishwasher victory

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

This was the next wash after doing the dishwasher magic cleaner that cleaned 
everything out. It's like whatever inside that is supposed to separate out the 
ground up good is not doing it. I'm changing the plumbing today probably and 
will run it again.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 8, 2016, at 2:39 PM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Kaleb sez:
> 
>> ‎It's not really hard water deposits >it's food deposits.
> ‎
> Ah. Okay. ‎
> Then on the drain cycle, after the wash cycle,(and probably rinse, too) isn't 
> purging all of the detritus out of the tub. ‎Or the wash arms are plugged. 
> Or?
> 
> Sign up here and ask. Best appliance forum I've found. 
> 
> http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php
> 
> Rick 
> Sent from my BlackBerry Z10‎
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Re: [MBZ] Short lived dishwasher victory

[WILTON via Mercedes]

Of course, it's not mine either.  It's just that hooking up disposer will 
significantly change the drain configuration under the sink.  'Was merely 
trying to insert a reminder that a disposer may provide a port that may help 
simplify the new drain setup.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "rogerhga--- via Mercedes" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Cc: <roger...@comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 3:20 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Short lived dishwasher victory



Wilton,
I know the disposal is designed with the option to tie in the DW, but 
unless you feel some strong need, I would not. Again, my disposal is now 
17 years old and going strong...separate from the DW. And the MayTag DW is 
plumbed before the trap. I still think Kaleb's problem is more the 
plumbing sequence than the DW. But I also know that new Bosch DW is 
"burning a whole in his pocket" and he'll want to install it to keep up 
with Dan. Whatever makes everyone happy. Again, it's your money and not 
mine.

Good luck and best wishes,
Roger
Roger Hale
Dinnerware Classics, Inc.
Monroe, Ga.
770-267-0850
www.dinnerwareclassics.com


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Re: [MBZ] Short lived dishwasher victory

[Rick Knoble via Mercedes]

Kaleb sez:

>‎It's not really hard water deposits >it's food deposits.
‎
Ah. Okay. ‎
Then on the drain cycle, after the wash cycle,(and probably rinse, too) isn't 
purging all of the detritus out of the tub. ‎Or the wash arms are plugged. 
Or?

Sign up here and ask. Best appliance forum I've found. 

http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php

Rick 
Sent from my BlackBerry Z10‎
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Re: [MBZ] Short lived dishwasher victory

[rogerhga--- via Mercedes]

Wilton, 
I know the disposal is designed with the option to tie in the DW, but unless 
you feel some strong need, I would not. Again, my disposal is now 17 years old 
and going strong...separate from the DW. And the MayTag DW is plumbed before 
the trap. I still think Kaleb's problem is more the plumbing sequence than the 
DW. But I also know that new Bosch DW is "burning a whole in his pocket" and 
he'll want to install it to keep up with Dan. Whatever makes everyone happy. 
Again, it's your money and not mine. 
Good luck and best wishes, 
Roger 
Roger Hale 
Dinnerware Classics, Inc. 
Monroe, Ga. 
770-267-0850 
www.dinnerwareclassics.com 


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Re: [MBZ] Short lived dishwasher victory

[WILTON via Mercedes]

Then you can discharge the DW drain into the disposer port provided for it. 
In preparing the disposer for it, don't forget to punch out the plug inside 
the port.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Cc: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <ka...@striplin.net>
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 1:53 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Short lived dishwasher victory


Have not messed with the drain yet. I think my plan is I am going to redo 
the under sink stuff and install a disposal at the same time I swap in the 
Bosch, then keep the maytag to replace the lower end kitchenaid in my rent 
house.


Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 8, 2016, at 12:48 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
<mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


Did you ever  fix the drain?

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Fri, Apr 8, 2016 at 10:37 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


I ran another load last night in the maytag this time just with cascade
and not any of that booster stuff I used the other day after running the
cleaner thru it. Dishes came out ok but I did have a couple of glasses 
that
appeared to start getting those deposits on them again. I guess this 
washer
will not get anything clean without some sort of booster added. Maybe 
the

Bosch I have not decided what to do with yet will be better.

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Re: [MBZ] Short lived dishwasher victory

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

Flint's water turned lead all of a sudden.
The "fix" for lead leaching out of pipes is to add lime to the water. All that 
calcium makes for hard water. Maybe your water district is worried about lead.
-Curt

  From: Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
 To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com> 
Cc: Kaleb C. Striplin <ka...@striplin.net>
 Sent: Friday, April 8, 2016 1:56 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Short lived dishwasher victory
   
It's not really hard water deposits it's good deposits. Would water turn hard 
all the sudden?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 8, 2016, at 12:54 PM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> Kaleb sez:
> 
>> I ran another load last night in the maytag this time just with cascade
>> and not any of that booster stuff I used the other day after running the
>> cleaner thru it. Dishes came out ok but I did have a couple of glasses that
>> appeared to start getting those deposits on them again.
> 
> Your water is as hard as a rock. Check your water softener. If you don't have 
> one, get a water sample checked. I'd bet hard water is your problem.
> 
> Rick 
> Sent from my BlackBerry Z10
>  Original Message  
> From: Meade Dillon via Mercedes
> Sent: Friday, April 8, 2016 12:49 PM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Reply To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Cc: Meade Dillon
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Short lived dishwasher victory
> 
> Did you ever fix the drain?
> 
> -
> Max
> Charleston SC
> 
> On Fri, Apr 8, 2016 at 10:37 AM, ‎I guess this washer
>> will not get anything clean without some sort of booster added. Maybe the
>> Bosch I have not decided what to do with yet will be better.
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Re: [MBZ] Short lived dishwasher victory

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Make that FOOD deposits

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 8, 2016, at 12:56 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin <ka...@striplin.net> wrote:
> 
> It's not really hard water deposits it's good deposits. Would water turn hard 
> all the sudden?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Apr 8, 2016, at 12:54 PM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes 
>> <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Kaleb sez:
>> 
>>> I ran another load last night in the maytag this time just with cascade
>>> and not any of that booster stuff I used the other day after running the
>>> cleaner thru it. Dishes came out ok but I did have a couple of glasses that
>>> appeared to start getting those deposits on them again.
>> 
>> Your water is as hard as a rock. Check your water softener. If you don't 
>> have one, get a water sample checked. I'd bet hard water is your problem.
>> 
>> Rick 
>> Sent from my BlackBerry Z10
>>  Original Message  
>> From: Meade Dillon via Mercedes
>> Sent: Friday, April 8, 2016 12:49 PM
>> To: Mercedes Discussion List
>> Reply To: Mercedes Discussion List
>> Cc: Meade Dillon
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Short lived dishwasher victory
>> 
>> Did you ever fix the drain?
>> 
>> -
>> Max
>> Charleston SC
>> 
>> On Fri, Apr 8, 2016 at 10:37 AM, ‎I guess this washer
>>> will not get anything clean without some sort of booster added. Maybe the
>>> Bosch I have not decided what to do with yet will be better.
>> ___
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>> 
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>> 
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>> 
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> 


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Re: [MBZ] Short lived dishwasher victory

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

CHANGE YOUR FUSES!

On Fri, Apr 8, 2016 at 1:56 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> It's not really hard water deposits it's good deposits. Would water turn
> hard all the sudden?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Apr 8, 2016, at 12:54 PM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > Kaleb sez:
> >
> >> I ran another load last night in the maytag this time just with cascade
> >> and not any of that booster stuff I used the other day after running the
> >> cleaner thru it. Dishes came out ok but I did have a couple of glasses
> that
> >> appeared to start getting those deposits on them again.
> >
> > Your water is as hard as a rock. Check your water softener. If you don't
> have one, get a water sample checked. I'd bet hard water is your problem.
> >
> > Rick
> > Sent from my BlackBerry Z10
> >   Original Message
> > From: Meade Dillon via Mercedes
> > Sent: Friday, April 8, 2016 12:49 PM
> > To: Mercedes Discussion List
> > Reply To: Mercedes Discussion List
> > Cc: Meade Dillon
> > Subject: Re: [MBZ] Short lived dishwasher victory
> >
> > Did you ever fix the drain?
> >
> > -
> > Max
> > Charleston SC
> >
> > On Fri, Apr 8, 2016 at 10:37 AM, ‎I guess this washer
> >> will not get anything clean without some sort of booster added. Maybe
> the
> >> Bosch I have not decided what to do with yet will be better.
> > ___
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> >
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> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> >
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> >
>
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Re: [MBZ] Short lived dishwasher victory

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

It's not really hard water deposits it's good deposits. Would water turn hard 
all the sudden?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 8, 2016, at 12:54 PM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> Kaleb sez:
> 
>> I ran another load last night in the maytag this time just with cascade
>> and not any of that booster stuff I used the other day after running the
>> cleaner thru it. Dishes came out ok but I did have a couple of glasses that
>> appeared to start getting those deposits on them again.
> 
> Your water is as hard as a rock. Check your water softener. If you don't have 
> one, get a water sample checked. I'd bet hard water is your problem.
> 
> Rick 
> Sent from my BlackBerry Z10
>   Original Message  
> From: Meade Dillon via Mercedes
> Sent: Friday, April 8, 2016 12:49 PM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Reply To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Cc: Meade Dillon
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Short lived dishwasher victory
> 
> Did you ever fix the drain?
> 
> -
> Max
> Charleston SC
> 
> On Fri, Apr 8, 2016 at 10:37 AM, ‎I guess this washer
>> will not get anything clean without some sort of booster added. Maybe the
>> Bosch I have not decided what to do with yet will be better.
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Re: [MBZ] Short lived dishwasher victory

[Rick Knoble via Mercedes]

Kaleb sez:

> I ran another load last night in the maytag this time just with cascade
> and not any of that booster stuff I used the other day after running the
> cleaner thru it. Dishes came out ok but I did have a couple of glasses that
> appeared to start getting those deposits on them again.

Your water is as hard as a rock. Check your water softener. If you don't have 
one, get a water sample checked. I'd bet hard water is your problem.

Rick 
Sent from my BlackBerry Z10
  Original Message  
From: Meade Dillon via Mercedes
Sent: Friday, April 8, 2016 12:49 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Reply To: Mercedes Discussion List
Cc: Meade Dillon
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Short lived dishwasher victory

Did you ever fix the drain?

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Fri, Apr 8, 2016 at 10:37 AM, ‎I guess this washer
> will not get anything clean without some sort of booster added. Maybe the
> Bosch I have not decided what to do with yet will be better.
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Short lived dishwasher victory

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Have not messed with the drain yet. I think my plan is I am going to redo the 
under sink stuff and install a disposal at the same time I swap in the Bosch, 
then keep the maytag to replace the lower end kitchenaid in my rent house.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 8, 2016, at 12:48 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Did you ever  fix the drain?
> 
> -
> Max
> Charleston SC
> 
> On Fri, Apr 8, 2016 at 10:37 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
>> I ran another load last night in the maytag this time just with cascade
>> and not any of that booster stuff I used the other day after running the
>> cleaner thru it. Dishes came out ok but I did have a couple of glasses that
>> appeared to start getting those deposits on them again. I guess this washer
>> will not get anything clean without some sort of booster added. Maybe the
>> Bosch I have not decided what to do with yet will be better.
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Re: [MBZ] Short lived dishwasher victory

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

Did you ever fix the drain?

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Fri, Apr 8, 2016 at 10:37 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> I ran another load last night in the maytag this time just with cascade
> and not any of that booster stuff I used the other day after running the
> cleaner thru it. Dishes came out ok but I did have a couple of glasses that
> appeared to start getting those deposits on them again. I guess this washer
> will not get anything clean without some sort of booster added. Maybe the
> Bosch I have not decided what to do with yet will be better.
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Short coolant hose

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Be sure not to scratch or cut the hose fitting on the thermostat housing or 
block. A small scratch from a razor knife used to cut the old hose off can 
cause a leak.

Don't ask me how I know.. 

Dan

On May 18, 2015, at 7:57 AM, Curly McLain via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
wrote:

 I am going to replace the short coolant hose between the block and the 
 thermostat mount  on my 85 300D.  Is there anything I need to know before 
 getting into it?  I have ordered a new thermostat and the gasket between the 
 block and the mount. Thanks,
 Mike
 
 Its been a long time since I did one.  A knife or screwdriver to take off the 
 old hose helps.  Also some dish soap (dawn) or something to lube the hose 
 helps it go back together.
 
 As long as you don't have a yorkie A/c ccompressor, it is not a bad job once 
 you have committed to taking off the thermostat housing.
 
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Re: [MBZ] Short coolant hose

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

Be sure to REPLACE ALL FUSES!

On Mon, May 18, 2015 at 10:50 AM, Curly McLain via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

   On May 18, 2015 at 7:57 AM Curly McLain via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com

  wrote:
   A knife or screwdriver to take
  off the old hose helps.


 http://www.ebay.com/itm/291228564553
 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00448Z248



 Tool Time Tips with Mitch!

 You can have a cable tv show.   Gotta be better than this ol house or
 whatever they call that show with the 3 guys with lost Rs.


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Re: [MBZ] Short coolant hose

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

 On May 18, 2015 at 7:57 AM Curly McLain via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
 wrote:
  A knife or screwdriver to take 
 off the old hose helps.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291228564553
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00448Z248

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Re: [MBZ] Short coolant hose

[Curly McLain via Mercedes]

  On May 18, 2015 at 7:57 AM Curly McLain via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com

 wrote:
  A knife or screwdriver to take
 off the old hose helps.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/291228564553
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00448Z248



Tool Time Tips with Mitch!

You can have a cable tv show.   Gotta be better than this ol house or 
whatever they call that show with the 3 guys with lost Rs.


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Re: [MBZ] Short coolant hose

[Curly McLain via Mercedes]

Be sure not to scratch or cut the hose fitting on the thermostat 
housing or block. A small scratch from a razor knife used to cut the 
old hose off can cause a leak.


Don't ask me how I know..

Dan


Aw c'mon,  Tell us the story!

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Re: [MBZ] Short coolant hose

[Dimitri via Mercedes]

Yup a Yorkie will turn the job into a real bitch

Sent from my iPhone

On May 18, 2015, at 7:57 AM, Curly McLain via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
wrote:

 I am going to replace the short coolant hose between the block and the 
 thermostat mount  on my 85 300D.  Is there anything I need to know before 
 getting into it?  I have ordered a new thermostat and the gasket between the 
 block and the mount. Thanks,
 Mike
 
 Its been a long time since I did one.  A knife or screwdriver to take off the 
 old hose helps.  Also some dish soap (dawn) or something to lube the hose 
 helps it go back together.
 
 As long as you don't have a yorkie A/c ccompressor, it is not a bad job once 
 you have committed to taking off the thermostat housing.
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 

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Re: [MBZ] Short coolant hose

[Curly McLain via Mercedes]

I am going to replace the short coolant hose between the block and 
the thermostat mount  on my 85 300D.  Is there anything I need to 
know before getting into it?  I have ordered a new thermostat and 
the gasket between the block and the mount. Thanks,

Mike


Its been a long time since I did one.  A knife or screwdriver to take 
off the old hose helps.  Also some dish soap (dawn) or something to 
lube the hose helps it go back together.


As long as you don't have a yorkie A/c ccompressor, it is not a bad 
job once you have committed to taking off the thermostat housing.


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Re: [MBZ] Short Hiatus

[Randy Bennell via Mercedes]

On 30/10/2014 4:35 PM, clay via Mercedes wrote:

SWMBA has taken #2 boy and left the state.  That was a few months ago.  She 
calls and tells me she has some business deal that requires me to leave home 
and keep an eye on the kid in AK for the next few weeks.  I guess that is one 
way to keep me from fretting about with the benz cars.   I think I will put the 
SL on the charger for a few hours until it is back at full charge.  Toss some 
Sta-bil in the tank, and dri-z-air for the cabin.

When I get back, I need to move a few W140 parts off the shelves.  Headlights 
and tail lights, engine computers, tool kit, a few other bts.  Think on this 
while I am away.


clay

All I can say, is why couldn't she find some deal in Hawaii instead of 
Alaska for the winter?


RB

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Re: [MBZ] Short Hiatus

[WILTON via Mercedes]

'Hope it goes well.

Wilt

- Original Message - 
From: clay via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2014 5:35 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Short Hiatus


SWMBA has taken #2 boy and left the state.  That was a few months ago. 
She calls and tells me she has some business deal that requires me to 
leave home and keep an eye on the kid in AK for the next few weeks.  I 
guess that is one way to keep me from fretting about with the benz cars. 
I think I will put the SL on the charger for a few hours until it is back 
at full charge.  Toss some Sta-bil in the tank, and dri-z-air for the 
cabin.


When I get back, I need to move a few W140 parts off the shelves. 
Headlights and tail lights, engine computers, tool kit, a few other bts. 
Think on this while I am away.



clay

2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately  well tailored chap
1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers








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Re: [MBZ] Short Hiatus

[Curly McLain via Mercedes]

On 30/10/2014 4:35 PM, clay via Mercedes wrote:
SWMBA has taken #2 boy and left the state.  That was a few months 
ago.  She calls and tells me she has some business deal that 
requires me to leave home and keep an eye on the kid in AK for the 
next few weeks.  I guess that is one way to keep me from fretting 
about with the benz cars.   I think I will put the SL on the 
charger for a few hours until it is back at full charge.  Toss some 
Sta-bil in the tank, and dri-z-air for the cabin.


When I get back, I need to move a few W140 parts off the shelves. 
Headlights and tail lights, engine computers, tool kit, a few other 
bts.  Think on this while I am away.



clay

All I can say, is why couldn't she find some deal in Hawaii instead 
of Alaska for the winter?


RB


Alaska pays you to live there.  No pay in HI!  (unless you are on 
welfare, then the total benies are over $40k per year.)


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Re: [MBZ] Short field takeoff

[OK Don]

I like how only the stewardesses are in color ---

On Sun, Jan 3, 2010 at 7:05 PM, relng...@aol.com wrote:

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=araRJYJJpCA

 RLE
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-- 
OK Don
CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
others.
The Devil's Dictionary
Ambrose Bierce
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Re: [MBZ] Short list of things I am doing on my w123 this 32nd birthday weekend.

[Wonko the Sane]

Happy birthday -- and wow, you sure are young! I have kids your age!

On Wed, Jun 3, 2009 at 7:13 PM, Rolf Martin-Hoster r...@winmutt.com wrote:

 Installing new clutch/flywheel using the GWagen 23cm clutch
 Installing 26mm TD front sway bar (the 15mm was *that* good).
 Installing a new rear diff and one new axle(my old one is chunky).
 Diagnosing doorlock vac issues and putting my euro lock pegs in.

 And of course the obligatory car wash.




-- 
The young officer thought it very odd that his captain seemed to trust and
confide in his chiefs more than his wardroom, but mustang officers had their
own ways.
-- Tom Clancy, Clear and Present Danger.
-- next part --
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Re: [MBZ] Short list of things I am doing on my w123 this 32nd birthday weekend.

[winmutt]

Its OK I have 2 of them myself. Not my age of course but at the rate im 
aging if I blink it will all be gone.


-Rolf

Wonko the Sane wrote:

Happy birthday -- and wow, you sure are young! I have kids your age!

On Wed, Jun 3, 2009 at 7:13 PM, Rolf Martin-Hoster r...@winmutt.com wrote:

  

Installing new clutch/flywheel using the GWagen 23cm clutch
Installing 26mm TD front sway bar (the 15mm was *that* good).
Installing a new rear diff and one new axle(my old one is chunky).
Diagnosing doorlock vac issues and putting my euro lock pegs in.

And of course the obligatory car wash.






  



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Re: [MBZ] Short list of things I am doing on my w123 this 32nd birthday weekend.

[Wonko the Sane]

You will look back in amazement when the time comes. I didn't believe it
when I heard it at your age, but time really does increasingly compress the
older you get. At 56, a year goes by in what used to seem to be a month. I
can't wait to get to be Wilton's age!

The step-daughter who came into my life at age 8 just yesterday is now a 22
year old co-worker in my office. Amazing and a bit scary.

On Wed, Jun 3, 2009 at 7:42 PM, winmutt r...@winmutt.com wrote:

 Its OK I have 2 of them myself. Not my age of course but at the rate im
 aging if I blink it will all be gone.

 -Rolf




-- 
The young officer thought it very odd that his captain seemed to trust and
confide in his chiefs more than his wardroom, but mustang officers had their
own ways.
-- Tom Clancy, Clear and Present Danger.
-- next part --
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URL: 
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Re: [MBZ] Short list of things I am doing on my w123 this 32ndbirthday weekend.

[WILTON]

Don't wish it away; it'll come fast enough.  Years are going like 
telephone/power poles on the highway now.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Wonko the Sane don.b...@gmail.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 9:13 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Short list of things I am doing on my w123 this 
32ndbirthday weekend.




You will look back in amazement when the time comes. I didn't believe it
when I heard it at your age, but time really does increasingly compress 
the

older you get. At 56, a year goes by in what used to seem to be a month. I
can't wait to get to be Wilton's age!

The step-daughter who came into my life at age 8 just yesterday is now a 
22

year old co-worker in my office. Amazing and a bit scary.

On Wed, Jun 3, 2009 at 7:42 PM, winmutt r...@winmutt.com wrote:


Its OK I have 2 of them myself. Not my age of course but at the rate im
aging if I blink it will all be gone.

-Rolf





--
The young officer thought it very odd that his captain seemed to trust and
confide in his chiefs more than his wardroom, but mustang officers had 
their

own ways.
-- Tom Clancy, Clear and Present Danger.
-- next part --
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: 
http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090603/fb1e49d1/attachment.html

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Re: [MBZ] Short list of things I am doing on my w123 this 32ndbirthday weekend.

[winmutt]

Telephone? Whats that like a cellphone? :D

-Rolf

WILTON wrote:
Don't wish it away; it'll come fast enough.  Years are going like 
telephone/power poles on the highway now.


Wilton

- Original Message - From: Wonko the Sane don.b...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 9:13 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Short list of things I am doing on my w123 this 
32ndbirthday weekend.




You will look back in amazement when the time comes. I didn't believe it
when I heard it at your age, but time really does increasingly 
compress the
older you get. At 56, a year goes by in what used to seem to be a 
month. I

can't wait to get to be Wilton's age!

The step-daughter who came into my life at age 8 just yesterday is 
now a 22

year old co-worker in my office. Amazing and a bit scary.

On Wed, Jun 3, 2009 at 7:42 PM, winmutt r...@winmutt.com wrote:


Its OK I have 2 of them myself. Not my age of course but at the rate im
aging if I blink it will all be gone.

-Rolf





--
The young officer thought it very odd that his captain seemed to 
trust and
confide in his chiefs more than his wardroom, but mustang officers 
had their

own ways.
-- Tom Clancy, Clear and Present Danger.
-- next part --
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: 
http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090603/fb1e49d1/attachment.html 


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Re: [MBZ] Short notice Get to Gether....

[Robert Rentfro]

Chuck

I have to work tomorrow. Can't turn down the double time.
Thanks for thinking of me.

Bob R

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Chuck Landenberger
Sent: Friday, July 25, 2008 8:43 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Short notice Get to Gether

Rob,

A bunch of us are going to meet at Anzio Landing for lunch on  
Saturday 7/26, tomorrow..

Hope you can join us.  Here's a link to the map.

It's at Falcon Field in Mesa..

http://www.eventective.com/provider/map.aspx?num=42333

Take care and sorry for the  short leash

Chuck



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Re: [MBZ] short block vs. long block - 1983 300TD

[andrew strasfogel]

I actually found and drove home a good running 83 300TD with a bad body and
cracked dash yesterday!  The drive train will be transplanted into the donee
car.  The donor car has a better than average palomino interior - anybody
interested?

The transmission seems OK except for perhaps one thing.  How long a pause
should there be when going from neutral/park into gear (reverse
especially)?  Is 2 seconds too long?  If so, does this mean the transmission
is on its last legs, and should I pre-emptively have it rebuilt while it's
out of the car?  Otherwise, the new TD drives strong and shifts nicely.

Who wanted a cheap W123 wagon?

Andrew
1983 300 TD (three)

On Tue, May 27, 2008 at 9:28 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 The head is unique to the wagon, have to use a wagon engine or swap the
 wagon head on.

 Mitch Haley wrote:
  andrew strasfogel wrote:
  Kaleb,
  I may have found a used '84 project car with a good  engine.  Will that
  engine fit in my 83 without any modifications?
 
  If it's coming out of a coupe or sedan it will need a wagon cylinder
 head.
  If it's coming out of a 300SD lots of parts will need swapping over.
  I *think* you can use the sedan camshaft with the SLS pump, but I
  won't guarantee it, Kaleb might know for sure.
 
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 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
 http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] short block vs. long block - 1983 300TD

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

$200

andrew strasfogel wrote:
 Anybody care to guess what an engine-less 1983 300TD with a nice blue
 interior and rusty but restorable body is worth?  No warranty on the used
 transmission either!
 
 On Fri, May 23, 2008 at 10:05 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:
 
 I dont really see any cracks on that head of yours.  I have a place that
 can actually rebuild the 14;s anyway and they seem to hold up.

 Luther wrote:
 That is a posibility, since Kaleb traded me his solid 617 block for my
 cracked 603 head.
 Luther

 On Thu, 22 May 2008 08:51:30 -0500, Loren Faeth 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 IF the head on the trashed engine is good, then buy a short
 block.  If the head has more than a couple of small cracks, i'd be
 inclined to buy a long block if it is not too pricey.  Last I knew MB
 only supplied short blocks.  Do check prices from several MB dealers
 who cater to MBCA.  Often the factory price is the best price.

 Check capitol motors, and ask for the MBCA discount on everything you
 will need to get the car running.  you never know what all the little
 stuff is that you will need.  Check with greater DC Section of
 MBCA.  Surely some of the members have found a good engine builder in
 the surrounding area.

 Check with Potomac G.A.P.  They are high, but they may have a good
 engine or short block, if your head is good.  Check sun valley
 Mercedes Dismantlers in CA.  They may have a good complete
 engine.  It is the TD head that you  need, unless you can fit a
 tandem pump ala 124 TD.  In that case, you only need a sedan 617
 turbo engine.  Another option might be to find a good crank.  Luther
 had a 617 with a hole in the side.  Ask Luther if the crank was good
 in that engine.  Potomac should have a good crank.





 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
 http://www.okiebenz.com

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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] short block vs. long block - 1983 300TD

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

The head is unique to the wagon, have to use a wagon engine or swap the 
wagon head on.

Mitch Haley wrote:
 andrew strasfogel wrote:
 Kaleb,
 I may have found a used '84 project car with a good  engine.  Will that
 engine fit in my 83 without any modifications?
 
 If it's coming out of a coupe or sedan it will need a wagon cylinder head.
 If it's coming out of a 300SD lots of parts will need swapping over. 
 I *think* you can use the sedan camshaft with the SLS pump, but I
 won't guarantee it, Kaleb might know for sure.
 
 ___
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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] short block vs. long block - 1983 300TD

[Mitch Haley]

andrew strasfogel wrote:
 
 Anybody care to guess what an engine-less 1983 300TD with a nice blue
 interior and rusty but restorable body is worth?  No warranty on the used
 transmission either!

Swap the toasted engine from the rust free car into it. 
Sell it like you bought the rust free car, a complete car which
lost its engine due to an oil leak. Ask for $500 less than you paid,
assuming you didn't pay a lot for the rust free car with blown engine. 
Make sure the car you keep has the best SLS parts of the two before
you sell the rust bucket.

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Re: [MBZ] short block vs. long block - 1983 300TD

[andrew strasfogel]

Interesting advice.  I was actually thinking of transferring the drive train
(engine + transmission) into the rust-free car, but not reinstalling either
into my rusty wagon.  How would this affect the value of the car I would be
trying to sell?


On Sun, May 25, 2008 at 9:30 AM, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 andrew strasfogel wrote:
 
  Anybody care to guess what an engine-less 1983 300TD with a nice blue
  interior and rusty but restorable body is worth?  No warranty on the used
  transmission either!

 Swap the toasted engine from the rust free car into it.
 Sell it like you bought the rust free car, a complete car which
 lost its engine due to an oil leak. Ask for $500 less than you paid,
 assuming you didn't pay a lot for the rust free car with blown engine.
 Make sure the car you keep has the best SLS parts of the two before
 you sell the rust bucket.

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Re: [MBZ] short block vs. long block - 1983 300TD

[Mitch Haley]

andrew strasfogel wrote:
  How would this affect the value of the car I would be
 trying to sell?

I was thinking a rolling chassis/interior would go for parts or salvage, maybe
$0.10-0.15 a pound, but maybe a complete but non-running car could be sold as
a project car for a little more. OTOH, asking the buyer to take on a project
that I wouldn't undertake might be asking a bit much.

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Re: [MBZ] short block vs. long block - 1983 300TD

[andrew strasfogel]

Reading between the lines, are you saying it would be a project if it were
a rolling chassis with an engine and transmission lying in the back of the
car, but a restorable non-running car if IF the bad engine and
questionable tranny were in situ and not removed?

On Sun, May 25, 2008 at 7:59 PM, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 andrew strasfogel wrote:
   How would this affect the value of the car I would be
  trying to sell?

 I was thinking a rolling chassis/interior would go for parts or salvage,
 maybe
 $0.10-0.15 a pound, but maybe a complete but non-running car could be sold
 as
 a project car for a little more. OTOH, asking the buyer to take on a
 project
 that I wouldn't undertake might be asking a bit much.

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Re: [MBZ] short block vs. long block - 1983 300TD

[andrew strasfogel]

Anybody care to guess what an engine-less 1983 300TD with a nice blue
interior and rusty but restorable body is worth?  No warranty on the used
transmission either!

On Fri, May 23, 2008 at 10:05 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 I dont really see any cracks on that head of yours.  I have a place that
 can actually rebuild the 14;s anyway and they seem to hold up.

 Luther wrote:
  That is a posibility, since Kaleb traded me his solid 617 block for my
 cracked 603 head.
 
  Luther
 
  On Thu, 22 May 2008 08:51:30 -0500, Loren Faeth 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  IF the head on the trashed engine is good, then buy a short
  block.  If the head has more than a couple of small cracks, i'd be
  inclined to buy a long block if it is not too pricey.  Last I knew MB
  only supplied short blocks.  Do check prices from several MB dealers
  who cater to MBCA.  Often the factory price is the best price.
 
  Check capitol motors, and ask for the MBCA discount on everything you
  will need to get the car running.  you never know what all the little
  stuff is that you will need.  Check with greater DC Section of
  MBCA.  Surely some of the members have found a good engine builder in
  the surrounding area.
 
  Check with Potomac G.A.P.  They are high, but they may have a good
  engine or short block, if your head is good.  Check sun valley
  Mercedes Dismantlers in CA.  They may have a good complete
  engine.  It is the TD head that you  need, unless you can fit a
  tandem pump ala 124 TD.  In that case, you only need a sedan 617
  turbo engine.  Another option might be to find a good crank.  Luther
  had a 617 with a hole in the side.  Ask Luther if the crank was good
  in that engine.  Potomac should have a good crank.
 
 
 
 
 
 

 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
 http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] short block vs. long block - 1983 300TD

[Loren Faeth]

The last I knew, a factory short block did not require a core.   The 
head is likely to be ok.  Valves are likely ok also

At 09:10 PM 5/22/2008, you wrote:

I almost forgot. The body donor is the car that was run out of oil
until it wouldn't run, right? The only thing worth saving on
that engine is probably the SLS pump and fuel system. If you
bought a short block, then you'd still need a cam, cam bearings,
rocker arms, valves, guides (and those sodium cooled exhaust
valves aren't cheap, probably $100x5). And if you do buy a rebuilt
engine or short block, they might not consider your engine worthy
of a core charge refund.

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Loren Faeth 


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Re: [MBZ] short block vs. long block - 1983 300TD

[Mitch Haley]

Loren Faeth wrote:
 
 The last I knew, a factory short block did not require a core.   The
 head is likely to be ok.  Valves are likely ok also

Good point. Valves/guides can probably survive a few minutes w/o fresh
oil. But the cam and followers were probably the first things to go,
and I can't remember if the SLS cam is special or not. 

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] short block vs. long block - 1983 300TD

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

I dont really see any cracks on that head of yours.  I have a place that 
can actually rebuild the 14;s anyway and they seem to hold up.

Luther wrote:
 That is a posibility, since Kaleb traded me his solid 617 block for my 
 cracked 603 head.
 
 Luther
 
 On Thu, 22 May 2008 08:51:30 -0500, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 IF the head on the trashed engine is good, then buy a short
 block.  If the head has more than a couple of small cracks, i'd be
 inclined to buy a long block if it is not too pricey.  Last I knew MB
 only supplied short blocks.  Do check prices from several MB dealers
 who cater to MBCA.  Often the factory price is the best price.

 Check capitol motors, and ask for the MBCA discount on everything you
 will need to get the car running.  you never know what all the little
 stuff is that you will need.  Check with greater DC Section of
 MBCA.  Surely some of the members have found a good engine builder in
 the surrounding area.

 Check with Potomac G.A.P.  They are high, but they may have a good
 engine or short block, if your head is good.  Check sun valley
 Mercedes Dismantlers in CA.  They may have a good complete
 engine.  It is the TD head that you  need, unless you can fit a
 tandem pump ala 124 TD.  In that case, you only need a sedan 617
 turbo engine.  Another option might be to find a good crank.  Luther
 had a 617 with a hole in the side.  Ask Luther if the crank was good
 in that engine.  Potomac should have a good crank.



 
 
 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] short block vs. long block - 1983 300TD

[LWB250]

There is nothing reputable about Adsit, IMHO.  Steer
very clear of them.

Dan


--- andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 As feared, my new rust free 1983 wagon does indeed
 have a bad engine.
 :((I was thinking of taking the drive train from
 my decent running 1983
 rusty 300TD, but this seems somewhat criminal; I
 would rather sell it as a
 daily driver to someone willing to give it a new
 lease on life.  Finding
 another used engine for this car is tricky because
 it must come from a
 1982-84 turbo wagon (not from an '85), so I need to
 explore other options.
 
 Is there any source other than Adsit where I get a
 reputable rebuilt
 engine?  What are the advantage or disadvantages of
 buying a cheaper short
 block?  All suggestions greatly appreciated!  Rusty
 only sells rebuilt
 transmissions.
 
 Andrew
 ___
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 http://www.buymbparts.com/
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Re: [MBZ] short block vs. long block - 1983 300TD

[Mitch Haley]

How rusty is the good running wagon?
Is it just looking not so perfect, or does it have holes in the rockers/wheel
wells/floors?
Wouldn't you rather have the drivetrain you've come to know and trust?
I think giving the rust free car a heart transplant from your known
car is better than selling your old car to somebody who will spend
another couple of years running it into the ground and crushing it. 

Your choices are a 81-84 S123 engine and whatever other parts you want
to move with it, or an 85 engine and torque converter and differential
and speedometer and whatever other parts you want to use. (81 wagons
are turbos, 82 sedans and coupes got the turbo). Now that the speed limit
isn't 55mph, the ideal swap might be the 83 engine and tranny from your good
runner, with the diff and speedo from a 1985 300D, CD, or TD. 
Mitch.

andrew strasfogel wrote:
 
 As feared, my new rust free 1983 wagon does indeed have a bad engine.
 :((I was thinking of taking the drive train from my decent running 1983
 rusty 300TD, but this seems somewhat criminal; I would rather sell it as a
 daily driver to someone willing to give it a new lease on life.  Finding
 another used engine for this car is tricky because it must come from a
 1982-84 turbo wagon (not from an '85), so I need to explore other options.
 
 Is there any source other than Adsit where I get a reputable rebuilt
 engine?  What are the advantage or disadvantages of buying a cheaper short
 block?  All suggestions greatly appreciated!  Rusty only sells rebuilt
 transmissions.
 
 Andrew
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] short block vs. long block - 1983 300TD

[andrew strasfogel]

What about other sources for a rebuilt?

On Thu, May 22, 2008 at 7:36 AM, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 How rusty is the good running wagon?
 Is it just looking not so perfect, or does it have holes in the
 rockers/wheel
 wells/floors?
 Wouldn't you rather have the drivetrain you've come to know and trust?
 I think giving the rust free car a heart transplant from your known
 car is better than selling your old car to somebody who will spend
 another couple of years running it into the ground and crushing it.

 Your choices are a 81-84 S123 engine and whatever other parts you want
 to move with it, or an 85 engine and torque converter and differential
 and speedometer and whatever other parts you want to use. (81 wagons
 are turbos, 82 sedans and coupes got the turbo). Now that the speed limit
 isn't 55mph, the ideal swap might be the 83 engine and tranny from your
 good
 runner, with the diff and speedo from a 1985 300D, CD, or TD.
 Mitch.

 andrew strasfogel wrote:
 
  As feared, my new rust free 1983 wagon does indeed have a bad engine.
  :((I was thinking of taking the drive train from my decent running
 1983
  rusty 300TD, but this seems somewhat criminal; I would rather sell it as
 a
  daily driver to someone willing to give it a new lease on life.  Finding
  another used engine for this car is tricky because it must come from a
  1982-84 turbo wagon (not from an '85), so I need to explore other
 options.
 
  Is there any source other than Adsit where I get a reputable rebuilt
  engine?  What are the advantage or disadvantages of buying a cheaper
 short
  block?  All suggestions greatly appreciated!  Rusty only sells rebuilt
  transmissions.
 
  Andrew
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Re: [MBZ] short block vs. long block - 1983 300TD

[Rolf]

I will buy the old head from you. If you want a good engine and don't
care about $ as much go with Metric Motors. 85 is the same as the
others, the SLS head is what makes it special. With a shortblock you
will be reusing the old head.

-Rolf

andrew strasfogel wrote:
 As feared, my new rust free 1983 wagon does indeed have a bad engine.
 :((I was thinking of taking the drive train from my decent running 1983
 rusty 300TD, but this seems somewhat criminal; I would rather sell it as a
 daily driver to someone willing to give it a new lease on life.  Finding
 another used engine for this car is tricky because it must come from a
 1982-84 turbo wagon (not from an '85), so I need to explore other options.

 Is there any source other than Adsit where I get a reputable rebuilt
 engine?  What are the advantage or disadvantages of buying a cheaper short
 block?  All suggestions greatly appreciated!  Rusty only sells rebuilt
 transmissions.

 Andrew
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] short block vs. long block - 1983 300TD

[Mitch Haley]

Rolf wrote:
 85 is the same as the others, the SLS head is what makes it special.

85 crank is special too. larger centering hole for the torque converter.
You can put a 84 TQ on a 85 crank, but it won't be self-centering.

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Re: [MBZ] short block vs. long block - 1983 300TD

[Tom Hargrave]

The pilot bearing is different in the 85, requiring you to use a 85
transmission for the parts to fit right.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Rolf
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2008 9:09 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] short block vs. long block - 1983 300TD

I will buy the old head from you. If you want a good engine and don't
care about $ as much go with Metric Motors. 85 is the same as the
others, the SLS head is what makes it special. With a shortblock you
will be reusing the old head.

-Rolf

andrew strasfogel wrote:
 As feared, my new rust free 1983 wagon does indeed have a bad engine.
 :((I was thinking of taking the drive train from my decent running
1983
 rusty 300TD, but this seems somewhat criminal; I would rather sell it as a
 daily driver to someone willing to give it a new lease on life.  Finding
 another used engine for this car is tricky because it must come from a
 1982-84 turbo wagon (not from an '85), so I need to explore other options.

 Is there any source other than Adsit where I get a reputable rebuilt
 engine?  What are the advantage or disadvantages of buying a cheaper
short
 block?  All suggestions greatly appreciated!  Rusty only sells rebuilt
 transmissions.

 Andrew
 ___
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 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] short block vs. long block - 1983 300TD

[Loren Faeth]

IF the head on the trashed engine is good, then buy a short 
block.  If the head has more than a couple of small cracks, i'd be 
inclined to buy a long block if it is not too pricey.  Last I knew MB 
only supplied short blocks.  Do check prices from several MB dealers 
who cater to MBCA.  Often the factory price is the best price.

Check capitol motors, and ask for the MBCA discount on everything you 
will need to get the car running.  you never know what all the little 
stuff is that you will need.  Check with greater DC Section of 
MBCA.  Surely some of the members have found a good engine builder in 
the surrounding area.

Check with Potomac G.A.P.  They are high, but they may have a good 
engine or short block, if your head is good.  Check sun valley 
Mercedes Dismantlers in CA.  They may have a good complete 
engine.  It is the TD head that you  need, unless you can fit a 
tandem pump ala 124 TD.  In that case, you only need a sedan 617 
turbo engine.  Another option might be to find a good crank.  Luther 
had a 617 with a hole in the side.  Ask Luther if the crank was good 
in that engine.  Potomac should have a good crank.



At 08:18 AM 5/22/2008, you wrote:
What about other sources for a rebuilt?

On Thu, May 22, 2008 at 7:36 AM, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  How rusty is the good running wagon?
  Is it just looking not so perfect, or does it have holes in the
  rockers/wheel
  wells/floors?
  Wouldn't you rather have the drivetrain you've come to know and trust?
  I think giving the rust free car a heart transplant from your known
  car is better than selling your old car to somebody who will spend
  another couple of years running it into the ground and crushing it.
 
  Your choices are a 81-84 S123 engine and whatever other parts you want
  to move with it, or an 85 engine and torque converter and differential
  and speedometer and whatever other parts you want to use. (81 wagons
  are turbos, 82 sedans and coupes got the turbo). Now that the speed limit
  isn't 55mph, the ideal swap might be the 83 engine and tranny from your
  good
  runner, with the diff and speedo from a 1985 300D, CD, or TD.
  Mitch.
 
  andrew strasfogel wrote:
  
   As feared, my new rust free 1983 wagon does indeed have a bad engine.
   :((I was thinking of taking the drive train from my decent running
  1983
   rusty 300TD, but this seems somewhat criminal; I would rather sell it as
  a
   daily driver to someone willing to give it a new lease on life.  Finding
   another used engine for this car is tricky because it must come from a
   1982-84 turbo wagon (not from an '85), so I need to explore other
  options.
  
   Is there any source other than Adsit where I get a reputable rebuilt
   engine?  What are the advantage or disadvantages of buying a cheaper
  short
   block?  All suggestions greatly appreciated!  Rusty only sells rebuilt
   transmissions.
  
   Andrew
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Loren Faeth 


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Re: [MBZ] short block vs. long block - 1983 300TD

[Rolf]

I would think the hole is smaller not larger as the bearing required
some trimming for the manual swap?

-Rolf

Mitch Haley wrote:
 Rolf wrote:
   
 85 is the same as the others, the SLS head is what makes it special.
 

 85 crank is special too. larger centering hole for the torque converter.
 You can put a 84 TQ on a 85 crank, but it won't be self-centering.

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Re: [MBZ] short block vs. long block - 1983 300TD

[andrew strasfogel]

If my mechanic does the work what would be his extra labor to do the short
block vs. engine replacement?  How can he tell whether the head is still
good?

On Thu, May 22, 2008 at 2:19 PM, Rolf [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I would think the hole is smaller not larger as the bearing required
 some trimming for the manual swap?

 -Rolf

 Mitch Haley wrote:
  Rolf wrote:
 
  85 is the same as the others, the SLS head is what makes it special.
 
 
  85 crank is special too. larger centering hole for the torque converter.
  You can put a 84 TQ on a 85 crank, but it won't be self-centering.
 
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Re: [MBZ] short block vs. long block - 1983 300TD

[Mitch Haley]

andrew strasfogel wrote:
 
 If my mechanic does the work what would be his extra labor to do the short
 block vs. engine replacement? 

Probably no more than his charge to remove the replacement engine from
your old car. If you're paying labor it gets expensive in a hurry
no matter which way you go. If you swap the engine/tranny together
it isn't difficult, just tedious. You've got to unbolt the flex disk,
motor mounts, shift linkage, wiring, vacuum hoses, exhaust, etc
and then slowly lift it out. Do you have an enclosed garage?

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Re: [MBZ] short block vs. long block - 1983 300TD

[R A Bennell]

If you are satisfied that the engine in your existing car is good, then just 
swap it and send the rusty body to the
great beyond. Save any other parts that might be useful and be done with it.

You may not be any better off with a rebuilt engine and it won't be any less 
expensive. Swapping the whole engine
and transmission should be less expensive if you are going to pay to have it 
done.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 11:16 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] short block vs. long block - 1983 300TD


As feared, my new rust free 1983 wagon does indeed have a bad engine.
:((I was thinking of taking the drive train from my decent running 1983
rusty 300TD, but this seems somewhat criminal; I would rather sell it as a
daily driver to someone willing to give it a new lease on life.  Finding
another used engine for this car is tricky because it must come from a
1982-84 turbo wagon (not from an '85), so I need to explore other options.

Is there any source other than Adsit where I get a reputable rebuilt
engine?  What are the advantage or disadvantages of buying a cheaper short
block?  All suggestions greatly appreciated!  Rusty only sells rebuilt
transmissions.

Andrew


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Re: [MBZ] short block vs. long block - 1983 300TD

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

your best bet would be to put the engine in from the rusty wagon.  Its 
value is in the engine.

andrew strasfogel wrote:
 As feared, my new rust free 1983 wagon does indeed have a bad engine.
 :((I was thinking of taking the drive train from my decent running 1983
 rusty 300TD, but this seems somewhat criminal; I would rather sell it as a
 daily driver to someone willing to give it a new lease on life.  Finding
 another used engine for this car is tricky because it must come from a
 1982-84 turbo wagon (not from an '85), so I need to explore other options.
 
 Is there any source other than Adsit where I get a reputable rebuilt
 engine?  What are the advantage or disadvantages of buying a cheaper short
 block?  All suggestions greatly appreciated!  Rusty only sells rebuilt
 transmissions.
 
 Andrew
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
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Re: [MBZ] short block vs. long block - 1983 300TD

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

No, 85 is different than 81-84.

Rolf wrote:
 I will buy the old head from you. If you want a good engine and don't
 care about $ as much go with Metric Motors. 85 is the same as the
 others, the SLS head is what makes it special. With a shortblock you
 will be reusing the old head.
 
 -Rolf
 
 andrew strasfogel wrote:
 As feared, my new rust free 1983 wagon does indeed have a bad engine.
 :((I was thinking of taking the drive train from my decent running 1983
 rusty 300TD, but this seems somewhat criminal; I would rather sell it as a
 daily driver to someone willing to give it a new lease on life.  Finding
 another used engine for this car is tricky because it must come from a
 1982-84 turbo wagon (not from an '85), so I need to explore other options.

 Is there any source other than Adsit where I get a reputable rebuilt
 engine?  What are the advantage or disadvantages of buying a cheaper short
 block?  All suggestions greatly appreciated!  Rusty only sells rebuilt
 transmissions.

 Andrew
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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D,
  89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
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Re: [MBZ] short block vs. long block - 1983 300TD

[Mitch Haley]

I almost forgot. The body donor is the car that was run out of oil
until it wouldn't run, right? The only thing worth saving on
that engine is probably the SLS pump and fuel system. If you
bought a short block, then you'd still need a cam, cam bearings,
rocker arms, valves, guides (and those sodium cooled exhaust
valves aren't cheap, probably $100x5). And if you do buy a rebuilt
engine or short block, they might not consider your engine worthy
of a core charge refund.

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