[neonixie-l] HV capacitor

2021-05-04 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  This is not a time-limited real auction.  I take the " buy it now " to mean that he could not sell it by auction so is looking for a buyer willing to pay an outrageous amount for this item.
  Pharma Phil
   
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Dekatron42 
   Date: May 4, 2021 at 5:20 AM
   
   
   
The relay is described in this auction: https://www.ebay.com/itm/kilovac-KM-14-S40-7-5KV-10A-High-Voltage-Gas-Filled-Relay-Coil-12VDC-2740-/162989609747
   
   

   
   
/Martin

   
   
   

 On Monday, 3 May 2021 at 23:06:08 UTC+2 nickja...@gmail.com wrote:
 


 
  
   Those things are useful for those of us who like to play with actual high voltage. You know, like 10kV and up! 
   
  
  
   
  
  
   That item is almost certainly a trigger device. Looks like an SCR or something, marked 12V on the end with small coils in the clear plastic underneath is. Those caps can start your heart, but they can also stop it! It probably has an internal resistor or one across the terminals to discharge it when not in use. The ones in microwave ovens have had them for some time.
   
  
 
 
 
   
  
 
 
  
   On Mon, May 3, 2021 at 3:59 PM alb.001 alb.001 <
   alb...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
   
  
 
 
  
   
   
I have a brand new 10 Kv 1200 pf capacitor, just took it out of it's package. Does anyone have a use for this. About 1 1/2 inch diameter and about 7 inches long. Looks like it is a ceramic device. one only. Does anyone have a use for this thing ?Thanks Pharma Phil

 -- Original Message -- 
 From: Alex <
 ajlg...@gmail.com> 
 Date: May 3, 2021 at 4:04 AM 
  
 I suspect I can't really add anything but I have taken a few medical HV bits apart before and that kilovac looks to me like a high voltage relay / trigger tube and the transformer looks like a pulse transformer, usually for adding a spike of voltage to a pedestal / stored charge by being wired in series with a circuit. This spike usually then causes the stored charge to flow by forming an arc or triggering a tube... 
 
 
  
   On Sunday, 2 May 2021 at 20:34:06 UTC+1 martin martin wrote: 
   
  
  
   Here's some serious HV for everyone! One of my clients gave me a '93 vintage defibrillator I am taking it apart for the green CRT among other things.
   

   
   
Deep inside I found this possible choke or transformer?
   
   
Also a serious 5 kV cap!
   
  
 
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[neonixie-l] HV capacitor

2021-05-03 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I have a brand new  10 Kv 1200 pf capacitor, just took it out of it's package. Does anyone have a use for this. About 1 1/2 inch diameter and about 7 inches long.  Looks like it is a ceramic device.   one only.  Does anyone have a use for this thing ?Thanks  Pharma Phil
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Alex 
   Date: May 3, 2021 at 4:04 AM
   
   I suspect I can't really add anything but I have taken a few medical HV bits apart before and that kilovac looks to me like a high voltage relay / trigger tube and the transformer looks like a pulse transformer, usually for adding a spike of voltage to a pedestal / stored charge by being wired in series with a circuit. This spike usually then causes the stored charge to flow by forming an arc or triggering a tube... 
   
   

 On Sunday, 2 May 2021 at 20:34:06 UTC+1 martin martin wrote:
 


 Here's some serious HV for everyone! One of my clients gave me a '93 vintage defibrillator I am taking it apart for the green CRT among other things.
 
  
 
 
  Deep inside I found this possible choke or transformer?
 
 
  Also a serious 5 kV cap!
 

   
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[neonixie-l] best method for pin cleaning?

2021-04-13 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I use a 3M diamond abrasive plastic film which you can get in finess down to 1 micron.  I use a 10 Micron one for very fine gentle sanding of things like nixie pins.  It is slow but effective.   Coarser versions would work faster. 
  Pharma Phil
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Nicholas Stock 
   Date: April 12, 2021 at 11:00 PM
   
   Martin, i'd use some emory board (nail files) to lightly sand the rust off of them.done that with a few tubes myself with no issues.
   

   
   
Cheers,
   
   

   
   
Nick



 Sent from my iPhone


 
 
  On Apr 12, 2021, at 19:47, martin martin  wrote:
  
  
 


 
  Hi all,
  
   
  
  
   I had a few Burroughs B5092s sitting around and thought I would build a little 6 shooter from PV Electronics.  I like this model since you can create your clock using any tubes.  You just have to wire them up multiplexed.
  
  
   Anyway, I used NOS ceramic sockets but the pins on the Nix's are very dirty and corroded.
  
  
   How can I safely clean them?
  
  
   
  
  
   Thanks!
  
  
   
  
  
   martin
  
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[neonixie-l] interesting eBay photo update

2021-03-04 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  Did anyone notice that eBay has switched from photos that are j-pegs to images as HTML documents.   You can no longer copy the images for your own files.  
  Pharma Phil
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: martin martin 
   Date: March 4, 2021 at 9:22 AM
   
   
   

 


 
  
   

 
  
   

 
  
   
  
  
   
  
  
   ~
  
  
   mcvei...@gmail.com
  
 

   
  
 

   
  
 

   
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[neonixie-l] Interesting Nixie counter at auction

2021-01-31 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  Back in the 1970's when the electronics magazines provided full and half sizes photos of PCB's for the articles, I developed my own way of laying out PCB's.  I photocopied the printed PCB full size, taped it onto the copper side of a single or double sided PB  board, and used a Dremel with fine carbide drill bits to drill all the holes required. 
   Then I got a glass tube 3-4 inches long and slightly less than 1/4 inch diameter which I heated up in the middle with a blowtorch and when the glass was soft I would stretch it out to form a jet in between the two thicker sections and snapped it off leaving the glass tube with a 2-3 inch very slim section.  I then poured a few drops of ladies nail polish into the tube and attached a rubber hose to the wider end of the glass tube.  I prepared the board by removing the paper and sanding the copper side smooth and dust free. I then painted on all the traces using my home-made resist pen while gently blowing into the rubber hose.  The whole process worked very well and I got to be good enough to run a line between the 0.1 inch IC pads.
   After a long and careful comparison of my layout with that in the magazine - it was easy to correct any errors with a fine blade scraper,  I etched the board using ammonium persulfate solution and a peristaltic pump to spray the etchant onto the board while it was in a plastic bowl.  I have made boards up to 10 inches square with hundreds of holes this way. I even did some double sided boards this way.  Modern boards with traces a fraction of a millimeter apart are out of reach for such hand-work.
  Pharma Phil 
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: newxito 
   Date: January 31, 2021 at 9:18 AM
   
   
   I remember making an amplifier board using a felt pen in the early seventies. 
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[neonixie-l] Lighted switches.

2021-01-24 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  Yohan   sorry for misspelling your name.
  Pharma Phil
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Yohan Park 
   Date: January 23, 2021 at 7:10 PM
   
   Phil, sorry I'm getting back at this but I think you're seriously overdriving these NE-2 bulbs.
   Even the high brightness versions need a 33K resistor.
   Regular NE-2 bulbs (which you most likely use as well) require around 150K
   I'm running standard brightness bulbs in my wall switches on 230V and I'm using 330K
   Always go as high as you can with resistor value.
   I've been running standard bulbs on 220K and they became luke warm to touch. This reduces the lifetime of the bulb and can cause blackening of the glass.
   
   
   

 On Saturday, January 16, 2021 at 1:52:34 AM UTC+1 philthepill wrote:
 


 
 
  I make my own lighted switches...
  I connect NE-2 lamps with a 20 K-ohm resistor at both ends of about 8 inches wire, drill a small hole in the switch face plate and push the end of the lamp thru just a little and hot melt glue it in place. If the face plate is white, you can just glue the lamp to the backside of the faceplate and it will shine thru. I wire the other ends of the resistors to the hot and neutral terminals that go to the light. When the light is off, the neon lamp lights, and when the light is on, the neon is off. You can find all the light switches in my house at night just by looking for the neon glow. They have never needed replacing. If you want to be super safe, you can use 4 x K-ohm resistors, two just next to the neon body and the other two at the other end of the wires. I use heat shrink over the resistor connections in both cases. Very cheap and effective but not UL or CSA approved.
  Pharma Phil 
  
 
 
  
   -- Original Message -- 
   From: Nick Andrews <
   nickja...@gmail.com> 
   Date: January 15, 2021 at 12:20 PM 

   
   

 Sweet! I've been thinking of looking for a lighted switch in the 'on' position for the attic lights we installed to maybe remind us to turn them off. Been up there a bit lately, running cable. More cameras, power, commo. New NVR has 10 cameras, I think have added about a dozen new duplex outlets, and so far 17 runs of cat5 through the house. More to come.


 


 Yes, some thermostats had mercury bulbs in them, the bigger ones having bigger bulbs. I grab those wherever I can find them, getting scarce now. There were also contactors with a fairly significant amount in them, but tricky to open for recovery. OLD ignitrons I think had a large amount in them. Sure mercury can be toxic, but it kills me to see the ridiculously idiotic overreactions to things like broken fluorescent bulbs in schools or places. I know a guy who built a box device to try recovering the mercury from old bulbs. It wasn't worth the hassle. A 4' flo bulb has what, about 1/20 of a drop of mercury in it? I've broken hundreds of them, and 8' ones too in my time. In high school we used them for lightsabers at the university dump.


 


 I use mercury in my carburetor sync gauge for my bike. I know they make some now with a little tungsten rod in them which are safer, and maybe I'll buy one some day. But for now, I'll hoard my little stash... 
 

   
   
   

 On Fri, Jan 15, 2021 at 9:15 AM martin martin < 
 mcve...@gmail.com> wrote: 
 


 Greetings all,
 
  
 
 
  These are no longer available in the US as of 40+ years ago. I found one in a box and had to put it back in to service!
 
 
  They were sold as "silent switches". Small tube of mercury to make the contact and the toggle switch has a large NE-2 for a nice looking night light.
 
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[neonixie-l] Lighted switches.

2021-01-24 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  Tohan
   I was taught to use 47 K resistors for NE-2 on 110 volts AC when I started back in 1975.   My lamps may be  NE-2 probably - I bought them in bulk at surplus stores and they are unmarked. I have had 8 running in my house since 1987 and none show any signs of darkening and I cannot detect any significant warming in any of them.   If I needed to redo them I could certainly use higher resistors, the brightness is not really greatly affected .    
  Thanks   Pharma Phil
  
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Yohan Park 
   Date: January 23, 2021 at 7:10 PM
   
   Phil, sorry I'm getting back at this but I think you're seriously overdriving these NE-2 bulbs.
   Even the high brightness versions need a 33K resistor.
   Regular NE-2 bulbs (which you most likely use as well) require around 150K
   I'm running standard brightness bulbs in my wall switches on 230V and I'm using 330K
   Always go as high as you can with resistor value.
   I've been running standard bulbs on 220K and they became luke warm to touch. This reduces the lifetime of the bulb and can cause blackening of the glass.
   
   
   

 On Saturday, January 16, 2021 at 1:52:34 AM UTC+1 philthepill wrote:
 


 
 
  I make my own lighted switches...
  I connect NE-2 lamps with a 20 K-ohm resistor at both ends of about 8 inches wire, drill a small hole in the switch face plate and push the end of the lamp thru just a little and hot melt glue it in place. If the face plate is white, you can just glue the lamp to the backside of the faceplate and it will shine thru. I wire the other ends of the resistors to the hot and neutral terminals that go to the light. When the light is off, the neon lamp lights, and when the light is on, the neon is off. You can find all the light switches in my house at night just by looking for the neon glow. They have never needed replacing. If you want to be super safe, you can use 4 x K-ohm resistors, two just next to the neon body and the other two at the other end of the wires. I use heat shrink over the resistor connections in both cases. Very cheap and effective but not UL or CSA approved.
  Pharma Phil 
  
 
 
  
   -- Original Message -- 
   From: Nick Andrews <
   nickja...@gmail.com> 
   Date: January 15, 2021 at 12:20 PM 

   
   

 Sweet! I've been thinking of looking for a lighted switch in the 'on' position for the attic lights we installed to maybe remind us to turn them off. Been up there a bit lately, running cable. More cameras, power, commo. New NVR has 10 cameras, I think have added about a dozen new duplex outlets, and so far 17 runs of cat5 through the house. More to come.


 


 Yes, some thermostats had mercury bulbs in them, the bigger ones having bigger bulbs. I grab those wherever I can find them, getting scarce now. There were also contactors with a fairly significant amount in them, but tricky to open for recovery. OLD ignitrons I think had a large amount in them. Sure mercury can be toxic, but it kills me to see the ridiculously idiotic overreactions to things like broken fluorescent bulbs in schools or places. I know a guy who built a box device to try recovering the mercury from old bulbs. It wasn't worth the hassle. A 4' flo bulb has what, about 1/20 of a drop of mercury in it? I've broken hundreds of them, and 8' ones too in my time. In high school we used them for lightsabers at the university dump.


 


 I use mercury in my carburetor sync gauge for my bike. I know they make some now with a little tungsten rod in them which are safer, and maybe I'll buy one some day. But for now, I'll hoard my little stash... 
 

   
   
   

 On Fri, Jan 15, 2021 at 9:15 AM martin martin < 
 mcve...@gmail.com> wrote: 
 


 Greetings all,
 
  
 
 
  These are no longer available in the US as of 40+ years ago. I found one in a box and had to put it back in to service!
 
 
  They were sold as "silent switches". Small tube of mercury to make the contact and the toggle switch has a large NE-2 for a nice looking night light.
 
 -- 
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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Lighted switches.

2021-01-16 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  sorry   I wire the neon lamp across the two terminals on the switch ( only works with one-way switches )
  Pharma Phil
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Yohan Park 
   Date: January 16, 2021 at 10:31 AM
   
   The live and neutral terminals that go to the light?
   There is no neutral in a switch, there's only a live wire and a switch wire.
   If you're connecting the neon to these wires you're using the switch wire that goes to the lamp as your neutral.
   That also explains why the neon turns off as soon as you turn on the light.
   
   
   

 On Saturday, January 16, 2021 at 1:52:34 AM UTC+1 philthepill wrote:
 


 
 
  I make my own lighted switches...
  I connect NE-2 lamps with a 20 K-ohm resistor at both ends of about 8 inches wire, drill a small hole in the switch face plate and push the end of the lamp thru just a little and hot melt glue it in place. If the face plate is white, you can just glue the lamp to the backside of the faceplate and it will shine thru. I wire the other ends of the resistors to the hot and neutral terminals that go to the light. When the light is off, the neon lamp lights, and when the light is on, the neon is off. You can find all the light switches in my house at night just by looking for the neon glow. They have never needed replacing. If you want to be super safe, you can use 4 x K-ohm resistors, two just next to the neon body and the other two at the other end of the wires. I use heat shrink over the resistor connections in both cases. Very cheap and effective but not UL or CSA approved.
  Pharma Phil 
  
 
 
  
   -- Original Message -- 
   From: Nick Andrews <
   nickja...@gmail.com> 
   Date: January 15, 2021 at 12:20 PM 

   
   

 Sweet! I've been thinking of looking for a lighted switch in the 'on' position for the attic lights we installed to maybe remind us to turn them off. Been up there a bit lately, running cable. More cameras, power, commo. New NVR has 10 cameras, I think have added about a dozen new duplex outlets, and so far 17 runs of cat5 through the house. More to come.


 


 Yes, some thermostats had mercury bulbs in them, the bigger ones having bigger bulbs. I grab those wherever I can find them, getting scarce now. There were also contactors with a fairly significant amount in them, but tricky to open for recovery. OLD ignitrons I think had a large amount in them. Sure mercury can be toxic, but it kills me to see the ridiculously idiotic overreactions to things like broken fluorescent bulbs in schools or places. I know a guy who built a box device to try recovering the mercury from old bulbs. It wasn't worth the hassle. A 4' flo bulb has what, about 1/20 of a drop of mercury in it? I've broken hundreds of them, and 8' ones too in my time. In high school we used them for lightsabers at the university dump.


 


 I use mercury in my carburetor sync gauge for my bike. I know they make some now with a little tungsten rod in them which are safer, and maybe I'll buy one some day. But for now, I'll hoard my little stash... 
 

   
   
   

 On Fri, Jan 15, 2021 at 9:15 AM martin martin < 
 mcve...@gmail.com> wrote: 
 


 Greetings all,
 
  
 
 
  These are no longer available in the US as of 40+ years ago. I found one in a box and had to put it back in to service!
 
 
  They were sold as "silent switches". Small tube of mercury to make the contact and the toggle switch has a large NE-2 for a nice looking night light.
 
 -- 
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 https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/eab74d90-5a82-4b95-ac32-7d461e176485n%40googlegroups.com. 
 

   
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Re: [neonixie-l] Lighted switches.

2021-01-15 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  that should say 4x 5 K-ohm resistors
  sorry  Pharma Phil
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: "alb.001 alb.001" 
   Date: January 15, 2021 at 7:52 PM
   
   
   I make my own lighted switches...
   I connect NE-2 lamps with a 20 K-ohm resistor at both ends of about 8 inches wire, drill a small hole in the switch face plate and push the end of the lamp thru just a little  and hot melt glue it in place. If the face plate is white, you can just glue the lamp to the backside of the faceplate and it will shine thru. I wire the other ends of the resistors to the hot and neutral terminals that go to the light.  When the light is off, the neon lamp lights, and when the light is on, the neon is off.  You can find all the light switches in my house at night just by looking for the neon glow.  They have never needed replacing.  If you want to be super safe, you can use 4 x K-ohm resistors,  two just next to the neon body and the other two at the other end of the wires. I use heat shrink over the resistor connections in both cases.   Very cheap and effective but not UL or CSA approved.
   Pharma Phil 
   
-- Original Message -- 
From: Nick Andrews  
Date: January 15, 2021 at 12:20 PM 
 


 
  Sweet! I've been thinking of looking for a lighted switch in the 'on' position for the attic lights we installed to maybe remind us to turn them off. Been up there a bit lately, running cable. More cameras, power, commo. New NVR has 10 cameras, I think have added about a dozen new duplex outlets, and so far 17 runs of cat5 through the house. More to come.
 
 
  
 
 
  Yes, some thermostats had mercury bulbs in them, the bigger ones having bigger bulbs. I grab those wherever I can find them, getting scarce now. There were also contactors with a fairly significant amount in them, but tricky to open for recovery. OLD ignitrons I think had a large amount in them. Sure mercury can be toxic, but it kills me to see the ridiculously idiotic overreactions to things like broken fluorescent bulbs in schools or places. I know a guy who built a box device to try recovering the mercury from old bulbs. It wasn't worth the hassle. A 4' flo bulb has what, about 1/20 of a drop of mercury in it? I've broken hundreds of them, and 8' ones too in my time. In high school we used them for lightsabers at the university dump.
 
 
  
 
 
  I use mercury in my carburetor sync gauge for my bike. I know they make some now with a little tungsten rod in them which are safer, and maybe I'll buy one some day. But for now, I'll hoard my little stash... 
  
 



 
  On Fri, Jan 15, 2021 at 9:15 AM martin martin < 
  mcvei...@gmail.com> wrote: 
  
 
 
  Greetings all,
  
   
  
  
   These are no longer available in the US as of 40+ years ago. I found one in a box and had to put it back in to service!
  
  
   They were sold as "silent switches". Small tube of mercury to make the contact and the toggle switch has a large NE-2 for a nice looking night light.
  
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[neonixie-l] Lighted switches.

2021-01-15 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I make my own lighted switches...
  I connect NE-2 lamps with a 20 K-ohm resistor at both ends of about 8 inches wire, drill a small hole in the switch face plate and push the end of the lamp thru just a little  and hot melt glue it in place. If the face plate is white, you can just glue the lamp to the backside of the faceplate and it will shine thru. I wire the other ends of the resistors to the hot and neutral terminals that go to the light.  When the light is off, the neon lamp lights, and when the light is on, the neon is off.  You can find all the light switches in my house at night just by looking for the neon glow.  They have never needed replacing.  If you want to be super safe, you can use 4 x K-ohm resistors,  two just next to the neon body and the other two at the other end of the wires. I use heat shrink over the resistor connections in both cases.   Very cheap and effective but not UL or CSA approved.
  Pharma Phil 
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Nick Andrews 
   Date: January 15, 2021 at 12:20 PM
   
   
   

 Sweet! I've been thinking of looking for a lighted switch in the 'on' position for the attic lights we installed to maybe remind us to turn them off. Been up there a bit lately, running cable. More cameras, power, commo. New NVR has 10 cameras, I think have added about a dozen new duplex outlets, and so far 17 runs of cat5 through the house. More to come.


 


 Yes, some thermostats had mercury bulbs in them, the bigger ones having bigger bulbs. I grab those wherever I can find them, getting scarce now. There were also contactors with a fairly significant amount in them, but tricky to open for recovery. OLD ignitrons I think had a large amount in them. Sure mercury can be toxic, but it kills me to see the ridiculously idiotic overreactions to things like broken fluorescent bulbs in schools or places. I know a guy who built a box device to try recovering the mercury from old bulbs. It wasn't worth the hassle. A 4' flo bulb has what, about 1/20 of a drop of mercury in it? I've broken hundreds of them, and 8' ones too in my time. In high school we used them for lightsabers at the university dump.


 


 I use mercury in my carburetor sync gauge for my bike. I know they make some now with a little tungsten rod in them which are safer, and maybe I'll buy one some day. But for now, I'll hoard my little stash...
 

   
   
   

 On Fri, Jan 15, 2021 at 9:15 AM martin martin <
 mcvei...@gmail.com> wrote:
 


 Greetings all,
 
  
 
 
  These are no longer available in the US as of 40+ years ago. I found one in a box and had to put it back in to service!
 
 
  They were sold as "silent switches". Small tube of mercury to make the contact and the toggle switch has a large NE-2 for a nice looking night light.
 
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[neonixie-l] What's the largest neon bulb commercially available?

2020-12-29 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I think US made  Aerolux tubes with a variety of flowers etc is in the same concept - just screw them in and turn on the AC 120 Volt power.
  Pharma Phil
  
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Yohan Park 
   Date: December 29, 2020 at 2:14 PM
   
   That's what I meant with "novelty bulbs" ;)
   
   The Bienenkorblampe (beehive lamp) runs straight on 210-240V so there's already a resistor inside.
   No idea if they were also made for 120V
   
   
   

 On Tuesday, December 29, 2020 at 11:11:32 AM UTC+1 Tidak Ada wrote:
 


 
  
   Don’t forget those ball shaped neon’s with messages as “LOVE”, “Home Sweet Home” and so on
   About those Bienenkorb  lamps: What is the voltage they need and do they need a series resistor? Or do they run local at mains voltage?
    
   eric
  
 

   
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Re: [neonixie-l] SP-101 Clock, finshed at last!

2020-12-07 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  did you notice that he hiked the price from $18 ( each for first 20 sold )  to $35 now 
  Pharma Phil
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Richard Scales 
   Date: December 7, 2020 at 3:23 AM
   
   Anyone looking for SP-101's could try here:
   

   
   
#S2T5 Beckman SP-101 Gas Discharge 1 Digit 7-segment Display 
   
   

   
   
Not my auction etc.etc.
   
   
   


   
   

 On Tuesday, 1 December 2020 at 21:49:34 UTC newxito wrote:
 


 
  I already have the domain and the web space but I will have a look at blogger, thanks Terry.
 
 
  I've already learned something today. A friend told me that even for a private website I absolutely need a privacy policy and it is better to have also a "legal notice"... that's annoying!
  
  
 

   
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Re: [neonixie-l] Safe handling of tubes containing Krypton 85

2020-12-02 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I have a few as well in the original packaging.   I find them at flea markets and antique shows. All of the sellers are unaware of their radioactivity.  I paid $2 for each. I have also found some old pharmaceutical products such as corrosive sublimate pills ( contain mercuric salts ) which were used to make disinfectant solutions.  Also dangerous and never packaged in anything resembling child-resistant and very poisonous.   I buy them to protect the public who might buy them as a curiosity and not be aware of the danger they pose.
  Pharma Phil
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: GastonP 
   Date: December 1, 2020 at 10:00 PM
   
   
   
An old gas lamp mantle is good enough for the purpose, as its main emission is alpha particles. It must be an old one because those ones use thorium oxide to get its distinctive bright, while new ones don't use thorium. I keep 3 of them, which I got from a local auction site, in a small ziploc bag that saves me from touching the mantles themselves.
   
   

   
   
   

 On Friday, November 27, 2020 at 8:10:19 AM UTC-3 Sgitheach wrote:
 


 
  Would just a chunk of granite (or a granite kitchen worktop if you have one) be good as a cheap starting point?
 
 
  
   On 27/11/2020 10:56, SWISSNIXIE - Jonathan F. wrote:
   
  
 
 
  
   I advise against using smoke detectors. To detect heir alpha radiation, you would have to disassemble the source until you get to the radioactive isotope plated strip - or button - element. This is sort of not allowed, and also can be very dangerous if you scratch off radioactive material. From outside the detector you can only detect the Gammas from the Am-241 Also Quantities are sort of really high in these devices, depending on make and model (1-100 uCi Am-241). If you really want to have alpha radiation, i would purchase a Po-210 source from here:

   https://www.spectrumtechniques.com/products/sources/disk-sources-and-source-sets/

   
   
They are like 60$, safe and legal to handle. Only disadvantage is short half life of 138 days. 

   
   
You also can find high power Po-210 sources here: 
https://www.imagesco.com/geiger/radioactive-sources.html

   
   
   

 Paul Andrews schrieb am Donnerstag, 26. November 2020 um 17:00:06 UTC+1:
 


 And by 'alpha', I meant 'beta'. I actually did mean alpha, but I was wrong. Still my old Geiger/Muller tube couldn't detect anything from these nixies, so at least I can now detect beta particles. Now I need to find an alpha source! Smoke detectors apparently.
  
 
 
  
   On Thursday, November 26, 2020 at 10:27:17 AM UTC-5 Pramanicin wrote:
   
  
  
   
Still a bit of juice left!
 


 Sent from my iPhone


 
 
  On Nov 26, 2020, at 07:25, Paul Andrews <
  pa...@nixies.us> wrote:
   
  
 


 
  Finally got an alpha detector for my GK-Mini geiger counter. First picture is a regular nixie tube. Second is one doped with Kr85
  
   

   
  
 

   
   

 
  
   
  
  
   

   

   
  
  
   
On Friday, November 6, 2020 at 9:20:54 AM UTC-5 SWISSNIXIE - Jonathan F. wrote:

   
   
Could also be Ra-226 on the 6140
 


 
  gregebert schrieb am Mittwoch, 4. November 2020 um 16:32:02 UTC+1:
  
 
 
  Maybe it's Thorium, used in the filaments.
   
  
  
   
On Wednesday, November 4, 2020 at 4:13:16 AM UTC-8 Paolo Cravero wrote:

   
   

 
  Hi.
 
 
  Let me add two pictures and a story.
 
 
  
 
 
  Lately I picked up locally a bunch of small CRTs (2BP1, that also fit in the vintage tuner currently on eBay, plus a Marantz) and the guy had a few NIB tubes too. I was looking for gas-filled ones and that resulted in a W.E. 6167 dekatron, some 0B2WA 

Re: [neonixie-l] Lectrascan Unit

2020-12-02 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  probably no use to anyone.  It's been on eBay a long time now without any takers.  It's just a shell and belongs in the garbage.
  
  Pharma Phil
  
   
   
   
-- Original Message --
   From: Michail Wilson 
   Date: December 2, 2020 at 2:58 AM
   
   
   
Anyone have a clue of the value (if any) of a Lectrascan Unit?
No tubes and likely no driver boards.
I don’t think there is any power supply or controller.
 
Just the frame and plastic face.    (Maybe some driver boards)
 

 Michail Wilson

   
  
   
  
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Re: [neonixie-l] SP-101 Clock, finshed at last!

2020-11-10 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  How difficult would it be to redesign the display boards to us  SP-353   3-digit panaplex displays ?   I still have some of those
  Thanks  Pharma Phil
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Richard Scales 
   Date: November 10, 2020 at 10:10 AM
   
   
   
Thank you. I have a Heathkit clock that needs some assistance. It does everything it should do apart from increment the time. The clock chip is driving the displays so I'm thinking it's OK but it just won't count time.

 I wasn't thinking of offering a kit but if anyone has a set of SP-101's then I can help out with Pcb's for this version as well as another one that I hope to have ready soon.


 Richard


 

   
   
   

 On Tue, 10 Nov 2020, 14:11 martin martin, <
 mcvei...@gmail.com> wrote:
 


 
  
   Your clock looks great! I'm currently fixing this 1970s Heathkit with an overheating power transformer.
  
  
   
  
  
   And yes! I would be interested in a kit
  
  
   

 
  
   

 
  
   

 


 


 


 ~


 mcvei...@gmail.com

   
  
 

   
  
 

   
  
  
 
 
 
  
   On Tue, Nov 10, 2020 at 6:04 AM Richard Scales <
   scales...@gmail.com> wrote:
   
  
  
   
I could make plans available, or all hinges on having the displays.

 The rest of just smart sockets albeit ones I made work for these 7 segment displays.


 I have another design which is a direct drive approach and is therefore much simpler in terms of hardware whilst the software has to do a lot more of the heavy lifting.


 I'll show that when ready. I'm just waiting on updated pcb's to arrive.


 Richard

   
   
   

 On Tue, 10 Nov 2020, 13:58 Michail Wilson, <
 m...@michail.com> wrote:
 


 
  
   Love it.
    
   Plans, Open source, only one or making a kit available?
    
   Michail Wilson
   206-920-6312
    
   
From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com  On Behalf Of Richard Scales Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2020 1:39 AM To: neonixie-l  Subject: [neonixie-l] SP-101 Clock, finshed at last!
   
    
   

 
  I've finally completed this: Six SP-101 panaplex displays being driven by 'smart sockets' which are getting their instructions from a Teensy Micro.
 
 
   
  
 
 
  A Wemos provides NTP sync, sensor reading (temperature and pressure) , Web scraping (local wind speed and direction) and random words.
 
 
   
  
 
 
  It does the best it can with only 7 segments. Also includes microwave motion detection so the thing is only displaying data when there is someone there to see it!
 
 
   
  
 
 
  I got green pcb's so the case is especially tinted to match.
 


  
 


 - Richard


  
 



 


 


 


 


 


  
 

   
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RE: [neonixie-l] Re: Who is interested in IN33?

2020-11-09 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I am in Brampton Ontario.    When I ship packages the big video display in the post office states that all delivery times are no longer in effect.  I tried tracing a package sent to Toronto - only 50 Km and CanadaPost.ca web-site says it will take 5 days but then purchaser wrote back to tell me they received it after 2 days.  Another package sent to Montreal took almost 2 weeks.  So  CanadaPost is all over the map about delivery times.  I have never had a package get lost and never delivered even during long postal strike.    So just need to wait and it will eventually turn up one day ( I hope )
  Pharma Phil
  
   
   
   
   -- Original Message --
   From: marius.sic...@gmail.com
   Date: November 9, 2020 at 8:41 AM
   
   
   
Hello everyone,
Are here any Canadians who ordered tubes from Yuriy this time of the year, or from other Russian sellers?
Did you guys get your orders? How long did it take?
The reason I am asking is that my order from Yuri (Shipped on 30 September 2020), according to the tracking, got to Canada on Oct 16:
 
Canadian Post
Delivered to the country of destination
16 October 2020, 21:58 YYZ, Canada
Transport leg completed
16 October 2020, 20:34 YYZ, Canada
 
And as of now, I did not get the package and it doesn’t look encouraging after 3 weeks. I wonder how long it takes to Canada Post to deliver it?
From previous experiences I know Canada Post is not giving much information to the receiver, the only way to find something is for the sender to open an investigation in the country of origin, and that will take for ever to get to Canada and make Canada Post do anything.
 
Thank you,
Marius
 

 From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com  On Behalf Of Yuriy OvchinnikovSent: Monday, November 9, 2020 12:00 AMTo: neonixie-l@googlegroups.comSubject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Who is interested in IN33?

 

 I will prepare the package and write. OG-9 is almost identical to OG-4.
 
   
 

 

 
  пн, 9 нояб. 2020 г. в 00:02, Andrew ODonnell :
 
 
  Hi
  
    
  
  
   I'm interested in following;
  
  
    
  
  
   2x IN-33
  
  
   1x A-108
  
  
   2x IVL-2-7/5
  
  
   1x IVL-1-7/5
  
  
   2x IVLShU-1-11/2
  
  
    
  
  
   please. Ship to UK.
  
  
    
  
  
   Also the OG-9, price and is it metal base or plastic/bakelite? Am I right in thinking the OG-9 is almost identical to the OG-4 (double pulse 30 pins etc)?
  
  
    
  
  
   Thanks
  
  
   
On Monday, 26 October 2020 at 20:01:58 UTC Юрий Овчинников wrote:
   
   

 Now I have:
 
  CRT VFD Indicator Tube ILD3-L (green) – 50 pcs.
   and ILD3-K (red) – 50 pcs.
  A-108 – 6 pcs. for $20
  A-201 – 13 pcs. for $40
  IV-1 – 39 pcs. for $0.6,IV-28А – 1 pcs. for $3,IVL-1-7/5 – 2 pcs. for $10,
  IVL-2-7/5 – 24 pcs. for $1.5,
  IVLShU-1-11/2 – 39 pcs. for $5,
  IN-3 – 199 pcs. for $0.5,
  IN-4 – 2 pcs.
  IN-7 – 4 pcs.
  IN-13 – 3 pcs. for $3
  IN-15А – 101 pcs. for $1,
  IN-16 – 1000 pcs.
  IN-17 – 120 pcs.IN-19A used – 1 pc. for $1.5,
  IN-19B used – 1 pc. for $1.5,
  IN-19V – 2 pcs. for $2,
  IN-28 – 79 pcs. for $3
  LC-531 used – 1 pc. for $2
  OG-9 – 5 pcs.
  5870 ITT England used – 8 pcs. for $10
  Z570M – 4 pcs.
  Z5700M used – 29 pcs.
  Z573M – 11 pcs.    
 

 

 
  чт, 22 окт. 2020 г. в 03:56, Yohan Park :
 


 
  On Wednesday, October 21, 2020 at 8:13:39 PM UTC+2 Юрий Овчинников wrote:
  
   

 Maybe you need some other lamps?Can you send me a list of what you have in stock please?

   
  
 


 
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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Source for Panaplex displays

2020-09-08 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  yes I still have 12 available    send me your zip code or address  and I will check for cost + postage and get back to you
  Thanks Phil
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Bill Stanley 
   Date: September 7, 2020 at 9:37 PM
   
   
   

 
  If still available, I would be interested in 12.
 
 
   
 
 
    Thanks;
 
 
   
 
 
    -Bill-
 
 
   
 
 
  
   
 
   
   

 From: 
 alb.001 alb.001


 Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2020 11:20 AM


 To: 
 neonixie-l


 Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Source for Panaplex displays

   
  
  
    
  
 
 
  I have a fair number of brand new in factory trays of Beckman SP-353  3 digit 1/2 inch displays at $10 each  if anyone is interested.  I individually test them with my derma-wand to make sure they are neon filled and have never found a bad one.
  Thanks and my apologies for anyone who is offended by this.
  Pharma Phil alb.001 @ sympatico.ca
  
   -- Original Message -- 
   From: Richard Scales  
   Date: September 5, 2020 at 11:32 PM 
   
   Hello and thank you for the heads-up - I am looking for single digit SP-101's to complete a project and sadly they do not have any, however, when it comes to socket pins for these things, I have stumbled across what I believe to be the ideal solution:
   
I too was looking at various socket pins from Harwin etc and worked out that whatever I needed was not going to be a cheap solution.
   
   
By chance I had a stash of 'turned pin' IC sockets and found that the pins in these were a perfect fit for the thin wires on the back of these panaplex displays.
   
   
The solution was to clip these out of the plastic holders that made up the IC sockets.
   
   
I designed a PCB to hold the pins but made the size of the holes so that the socket end of the pin was nearly flush with the PCB. The data sheets are available which detail the precise location of the pins which i backed up by taking my own measurements.
   
   
The result - a perfect receipticle for these fragile devices.
   
   
I have used this technique for the panaplex which is a complete 'clock' face ie 3 full digits and a 4th which can only display a 1 though there is also an AM/PM indicator.
   
   
I love these panaplex displays and am always on the lookout for them. Particularly the single digit SP-101 - just in case anyone has any!
   
   
I'm also on the lookout for ZM1350's from Telefunken but accept that these are not so readily available these days (putting it mildly!). 

The turned pin sockets are also available as 40 way SIL socket pins which I have also released from their plastic surround to make panaplex sockets.
   
   
 
   
   
- Richard
   
   


   
   

 On Saturday, 5 September 2020 at 23:55:41 UTC+1 bdu...@gmail.com wrote: 
 


 
  
   As a quick follow-up; it looks like the UHP495 might be useful to drive the digits and/or separators of a nixie clock. The following doc discusses the 400 series part specs as 40v minimum drive and 500mA sink. So I think the UHP495 might be useful to switch digits or separators on and off, although not to the full tube voltage.
  
  
    
  
  
   - Bill
  
  
    
  
  
   http://www.bitsavers.org/components/sprague/_dataBooks/1980_Sprague_Semiconductors_Short_Form_Catalog.pdf
  
 
 
  
    
  
  On Saturday, September 5, 2020 at 6:33:45 PM UTC-4, Bill Duane wrote:
  
   

 A saw a discussion earlier that some people were using the Sperry (Burroughs?) Panaplex 7-segement gas displays. I stumbled across them for a good price at: 
 


  


 https://www.electronicsurplus.com/sperry-sp736-opto-display-panaplex-neongas


  


 They have 3 units of the 2-digit displays in stock, and several of the 1 and 1/2- digit display modules.


  


 Also, they have some possibly interesting UHP495 high voltage driver chips. I'm going to look up the specs on these chips, as they seem to have quite a few, and they may be useful to drive standard nixies (as opposed to their intended driving of Panaplex displays

RE: [neonixie-l] Re: Source for Panaplex displays

2020-09-07 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  Thanks for your interest.
  I will need your address  -- Zip Code or whatever to calculate postage. and get back to you tomorrow.
  Thanks  Pharma Phil
  
   
   
   
-- Original Message --
   From: Michail Wilson 
   Date: September 6, 2020 at 11:42 PM
   
   
   
Thanks.    Actually, you wrote correctly.  I simply misread it.
 
I’d like to get 24 of them.
 

 Michail Wilson
 206-920-6312

 

 
  From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com  On Behalf Of alb.001 alb.001 Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2020 7:44 PM To: neonixie-l  Subject: RE: [neonixie-l] Re: Source for Panaplex displays
 

 
clarification    3 digits   1/2 inches tall
Hope that is better
Phil

 -- Original Message --  From: Michail Wilson <m...@michail.com>  Date: September 6, 2020 at 5:40 PM
 
  What is the 3.5 digit?   I can only find 3 digit version.
  Have a picture?
   
  
   Michail Wilson
   206-920-6312
  
   
  
   
From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com <neonixie-l@googlegroups.com> On Behalf Of alb.001 alb.001 Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2020 11:20 AM To: neonixie-l <neonixie-l@googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Source for Panaplex displays
   
  
   
  I have a fair number of brand new in factory trays of Beckman SP-353  3 digit 1/2 inch displays at $10 each  if anyone is interested.  I individually test them with my derma-wand to make sure they are neon filled and have never found a bad one.
  Thanks and my apologies for anyone who is offended by this.
  Pharma Phil alb.001 @ sympatico.ca
  
   -- Original Message --  From: Richard Scales <rich...@scalesweb.co.uk>  Date: September 5, 2020 at 11:32 PM   Hello and thank you for the heads-up - I am looking for single digit SP-101's to complete a project and sadly they do not have any, however, when it comes to socket pins for these things, I have stumbled across what I believe to be the ideal solution:
   
 I too was looking at various socket pins from Harwin etc and worked out that whatever I needed was not going to be a cheap solution.
   
   
 By chance I had a stash of 'turned pin' IC sockets and found that the pins in these were a perfect fit for the thin wires on the back of these panaplex displays.
   
   
 The solution was to clip these out of the plastic holders that made up the IC sockets.
   
   
 I designed a PCB to hold the pins but made the size of the holes so that the socket end of the pin was nearly flush with the PCB. The data sheets are available which detail the precise location of the pins which i backed up by taking my own measurements.
   
   
 The result - a perfect receipticle for these fragile devices.
   
   
 I have used this technique for the panaplex which is a complete 'clock' face ie 3 full digits and a 4th which can only display a 1 though there is also an AM/PM indicator.
   
   
 I love these panaplex displays and am always on the lookout for them. Particularly the single digit SP-101 - just in case anyone has any!
   
   
 I'm also on the lookout for ZM1350's from Telefunken but accept that these are not so readily available these days (putting it mildly!).   The turned pin sockets are also available as 40 way SIL socket pins which I have also released from their plastic surround to make panaplex sockets.
   
   
 
   
   
- Richard
   
   
 
   
   

 On Saturday, 5 September 2020 at 23:55:41 UTC+1 bdu...@gmail.com wrote:


 
  
   As a quick follow-up; it looks like the UHP495 might be useful to drive the digits and/or separators of a nixie clock. The following doc discusses the 400 series part specs as 40v minimum drive and 500mA sink. So I think the UHP495 might be useful to switch digits or separators on and off, although not to the full tube voltage.
  
  
    
  
  
   - Bill
  
  
    
  
  
   http://www.bitsavers.org/components/sprague/_dataBooks/1980_Sprague_Semiconductors_Short_Form_Catalog.pdf
  
 
 
  
    
  
   On Saturday, September 5, 2020 at 6:33:45 PM UTC-4, Bill Duane wrote:
  
   

 A saw a discussion earlier that some people were using the Sperry (Burroughs?) Panaplex 7-segement gas displays. I stumbled across them for a good price at:


  


 https://www.electronicsurplus.com/sperry-sp736-opto-display-panaplex-neongas


  



RE: [neonixie-l] Re: Source for Panaplex displays

2020-09-06 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  clarification    3 digits   1/2 inches tall
  Hope that is better
  Phil
  
   
   
   
-- Original Message --
   From: Michail Wilson 
   Date: September 6, 2020 at 5:40 PM
   
   
   
What is the 3.5 digit?   I can only find 3 digit version.
Have a picture?
 

 Michail Wilson
 206-920-6312

 

 
  From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com  On Behalf Of alb.001 alb.001 Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2020 11:20 AM To: neonixie-l  Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Source for Panaplex displays
 

 
I have a fair number of brand new in factory trays of Beckman SP-353  3 digit 1/2 inch displays at $10 each  if anyone is interested.  I individually test them with my derma-wand to make sure they are neon filled and have never found a bad one.
Thanks and my apologies for anyone who is offended by this.
Pharma Phil alb.001 @ sympatico.ca

 -- Original Message --  From: Richard Scales <rich...@scalesweb.co.uk>  Date: September 5, 2020 at 11:32 PM   Hello and thank you for the heads-up - I am looking for single digit SP-101's to complete a project and sadly they do not have any, however, when it comes to socket pins for these things, I have stumbled across what I believe to be the ideal solution:
 
   I too was looking at various socket pins from Harwin etc and worked out that whatever I needed was not going to be a cheap solution.
 
 
   By chance I had a stash of 'turned pin' IC sockets and found that the pins in these were a perfect fit for the thin wires on the back of these panaplex displays.
 
 
   The solution was to clip these out of the plastic holders that made up the IC sockets.
 
 
   I designed a PCB to hold the pins but made the size of the holes so that the socket end of the pin was nearly flush with the PCB. The data sheets are available which detail the precise location of the pins which i backed up by taking my own measurements.
 
 
   The result - a perfect receipticle for these fragile devices.
 
 
   I have used this technique for the panaplex which is a complete 'clock' face ie 3 full digits and a 4th which can only display a 1 though there is also an AM/PM indicator.
 
 
   I love these panaplex displays and am always on the lookout for them. Particularly the single digit SP-101 - just in case anyone has any!
 
 
   I'm also on the lookout for ZM1350's from Telefunken but accept that these are not so readily available these days (putting it mildly!).   The turned pin sockets are also available as 40 way SIL socket pins which I have also released from their plastic surround to make panaplex sockets.
 
 
   
 
 
  - Richard
 
 
   
 
 
  
   On Saturday, 5 September 2020 at 23:55:41 UTC+1  bdu...@gmail.com wrote:
  
  
   

 As a quick follow-up; it looks like the UHP495 might be useful to drive the digits and/or separators of a nixie clock. The following doc discusses the 400 series part specs as 40v minimum drive and 500mA sink. So I think the UHP495 might be useful to switch digits or separators on and off, although not to the full tube voltage.


  


 - Bill


  


 http://www.bitsavers.org/components/sprague/_dataBooks/1980_Sprague_Semiconductors_Short_Form_Catalog.pdf

   
   

  

 On Saturday, September 5, 2020 at 6:33:45 PM UTC-4, Bill Duane wrote:

 
  
   A saw a discussion earlier that some people were using the Sperry (Burroughs?) Panaplex 7-segement gas displays. I stumbled across them for a good price at:
  
  
    
  
  
   https://www.electronicsurplus.com/sperry-sp736-opto-display-panaplex-neongas
  
  
    
  
  
   They have 3 units of the 2-digit displays in stock, and several of the 1 and 1/2- digit display modules.
  
  
    
  
  
   Also, they have some possibly interesting UHP495 high voltage driver chips. I'm going to look up the specs on these chips, as they seem to have quite a few, and they may be useful to drive standard nixies (as opposed to their intended driving of Panaplex displays):
  
  
    
  
  
   https://www.electronicsurplus.com/sprague-uhp495-ic-opto-display-gas-display-drivers
  
  
    
  
  
   In addition, they have quite a variety of neon bulbs, some high voltage-low RDS-on MOSFETs, and some other multi-digit Sperry gas displays; all of which may be of interest to this group.
  
  
    
  
  
   I am buying

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Source for Panaplex displays

2020-09-06 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I have a fair number of brand new in factory trays of Beckman SP-353  3 digit 1/2 inch displays at $10 each  if anyone is interested.  I individually test them with my derma-wand to make sure they are neon filled and have never found a bad one.
  Thanks and my apologies for anyone who is offended by this.
  Pharma Phil alb.001 @ sympatico.ca
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Richard Scales 
   Date: September 5, 2020 at 11:32 PM
   
   Hello and thank you for the heads-up - I am looking for single digit SP-101's to complete a project and sadly they do not have any, however, when it comes to socket pins for these things, I have stumbled across what I believe to be the ideal solution:
   
I too was looking at various socket pins from Harwin etc and worked out that whatever I needed was not going to be a cheap solution.
   
   
By chance I had a stash of 'turned pin' IC sockets and found that the pins in these were a perfect fit for the thin wires on the back of these panaplex displays.
   
   
The solution was to clip these out of the plastic holders that made up the IC sockets.
   
   
I designed a PCB to hold the pins but made the size of the holes so that the socket end of the pin was nearly flush with the PCB. The data sheets are available which detail the precise location of the pins which i backed up by taking my own measurements.
   
   
The result - a perfect receipticle for these fragile devices.
   
   
I have used this technique for the panaplex which is a complete 'clock' face ie 3 full digits and a 4th which can only display a 1 though there is also an AM/PM indicator.
   
   
I love these panaplex displays and am always on the lookout for them. Particularly the single digit SP-101 - just in case anyone has any!
   
   
I'm also on the lookout for ZM1350's from Telefunken but accept that these are not so readily available these days (putting it mildly!).

The turned pin sockets are also available as 40 way SIL socket pins which I have also released from their plastic surround to make panaplex sockets.
   
   

   
   
- Richard
   
   


   
   

 On Saturday, 5 September 2020 at 23:55:41 UTC+1 bdu...@gmail.com wrote:
 


 
  
   As a quick follow-up; it looks like the UHP495 might be useful to drive the digits and/or separators of a nixie clock. The following doc discusses the 400 series part specs as 40v minimum drive and 500mA sink. So I think the UHP495 might be useful to switch digits or separators on and off, although not to the full tube voltage.
  
  
   
  
  
   - Bill
  
  
   
  
  
   http://www.bitsavers.org/components/sprague/_dataBooks/1980_Sprague_Semiconductors_Short_Form_Catalog.pdf
  
 
 
  
   
  
  On Saturday, September 5, 2020 at 6:33:45 PM UTC-4, Bill Duane wrote:
  
   

 A saw a discussion earlier that some people were using the Sperry (Burroughs?) Panaplex 7-segement gas displays. I stumbled across them for a good price at:
 


 


 https://www.electronicsurplus.com/sperry-sp736-opto-display-panaplex-neongas


 


 They have 3 units of the 2-digit displays in stock, and several of the 1 and 1/2- digit display modules.


 


 Also, they have some possibly interesting UHP495 high voltage driver chips. I'm going to look up the specs on these chips, as they seem to have quite a few, and they may be useful to drive standard nixies (as opposed to their intended driving of Panaplex displays):
 


 


 https://www.electronicsurplus.com/sprague-uhp495-ic-opto-display-gas-display-drivers


 


 In addition, they have quite a variety of neon bulbs, some high voltage-low RDS-on MOSFETs, and some other multi-digit Sperry gas displays; all of which may be of interest to this group.


 


 I am buying a few different Molex and other types of pins to see if any would work nicely as nixie tube socket pins - I will let the group know if anything ends up being useful.


 


 I have not bought from them before, but hope they are reputable as I came across a pointer to them on the AdaFruit site. It was sad to see that a number of the links to other electronics surplus site went to out-of-business pages, or dead links. 
 


 


 - Bill
 


 


 


 


 


 


 

   
  
 

   
    -- 
You received 

Re: [neonixie-l] help identifying a Nixie PC board

2020-07-30 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  Mark  I guess that the board finally arrived.   I am very pleased that you have it.  Your PayPal payment was more than generous.  I hope you get the frequency counter working again.   I am pleased to have been able to help a fellow nixier.  I wonder if this was the last factory sealed original board that was left on earth. 
  Best wishes   Phil Berkowitz
  
   -- Original Message --From: mhuffstut...@seanet.comDate: July 4, 2020 at 4:58 PMHi Phil, I have that very frequency counter! Picked it up as dead ata Swap Meet last year (Remember those?) I could sure use it!Mark>> Bingo...  we have a winner.  Thanks for all your help. > Board is a Heathkit frequency counter display and drivers board.>> Thanks for all your help.  Does anyone have a use for this board ?>> Pharma Phil>> -- Original Message --> From: jörg > Date: July 4, 2020 at 9:29 AM>>> Found this: PCB seems to match> https://ia800702.us.archive.org/4/items/HeathkitIB1103FrequencyCounter/Heathkit%20IB-1103%20Frequency%20Counter.pdf>> --> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups> "neonixie-l" group.> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an> email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.> To view this discussion on the web, visit> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/899729ef-eeb4-4a88-962e-2dfc3862ec9co%40googlegroups.com.>> --> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups> "neonixie-l" group.> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an> email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.> To view this discussion on the web, visit> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/351942260.721364.1593896008924.JavaMail.open-xchange%40mtlgui07.>-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group.To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/56680.174.21.190.240.1593896286.squirrel%40wm.seanet.com.
  
 




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Re: [neonixie-l] help identifying a Nixie PC board

2020-07-05 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  nice photos,  looks just like mine.  How did it get to Patagonia ?
  Thanks again all, you are the best !Pharma Phil
  
   -- Original Message --From: Marcelo Confortino Date: July 5, 2020 at 9:09 AMGood morning. I have the same board, populated. May be not the same, as the numbers are different, but the traces and layout are certainly the same as yours. The numbers in mine are 85-1398-2, 041373 and 033073. All ICs are socketed. Nixies are NL-950S and there is also a neon lamp. Can't remember where it came from.Marcelo from Patagonia.El 3/7/20 a las 17:20, alb.001 alb.001 escribió:>>>>> I found this old pc board brand new in sealed original plastic bag >> for an 8-nixie device.  The Nixies appear to be the ZM1000 base >> type.  Board is labeled  85-560-2 and 060172 .Each nixie has 3 IC's >> going to it and maybe some power or wave shaping by 2 IC's on the >> left.  The board is double sided FR type material  about 18 cm x 9.5 >> cm  Any help appreciated>>>> Thanks  Pharma Phil>>>> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google > Groups "neonixie-l" group.> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send > an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com > .> To view this discussion on the web, visit > https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/706359045.246847.1593807639875.JavaMail.open-xchange%40mtlgui06 > .-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group.To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/88530761-530d-18b9-c35d-dd937fd54a0a%40gmail.com.
  
 




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Re: [neonixie-l] help identifying a Nixie PC board

2020-07-04 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  Bingo...  we have a winner.  Thanks for all your help.  Board is a Heathkit frequency counter display and drivers board.
  Thanks for all your help.  Does anyone have a use for this board ?
  Pharma Phil
  
   -- Original Message --From: jörg Date: July 4, 2020 at 9:29 AMFound this: PCB seems to matchhttps://ia800702.us.archive.org/4/items/HeathkitIB1103FrequencyCounter/Heathkit%20IB-1103%20Frequency%20Counter.pdf-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group.To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/899729ef-eeb4-4a88-962e-2dfc3862ec9co%40googlegroups.com.
  
 




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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: What is this HV gadget?

2020-06-28 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  just search on eBay for  portable neon tester  and you find the same item for around  $14
  Pharma Phil
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Terry S 
   Date: June 28, 2020 at 7:03 PM
   
   
   

 I have one, I bought it for testing neon sign tubes. I leave it in my car so I can grab bargain neons as soon as they pop up on CL.


 


 I tried it on nixies, It works, but I did somehow manage to blow the decimal points off a couple of IN-14's when using it.
 

On Wednesday, June 24, 2020 at 3:32:54 PM UTC-5, Terry Bowman wrote:

 
  https://www.ebay.com/itm/184339010355
  
   
  
  
   
  
  
   It looks like it was designed for some other purpose and may be available for less elsewhere.
  
  
   
  
  
   
   

 Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
 "The Mac Doctor”
 
 "Never install version point-zero of anything"

   
   
  
 

   
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Re: [neonixie-l] 1961 Heathkit Catalog

2020-05-27 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  There is an auction from the province of British Columbia Canada of some old physics lab equipment which includes a Dana 3800A nixie multi-meter.  They don't ship so you would need to live nearby or have friend who can get it for you.
  Regards  Pharma Phil
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: "alb.001 alb.001" 
   Date: May 27, 2020 at 11:00 PM
   
   
   I still have some GE silent mercury wall switches still in original packaging.  I also have a plastic bottle with about 5 pounds of pure mercury which I used to play with.
   Pharma Phil
   
-- Original Message -- 
From: martin martin  
Date: May 27, 2020 at 8:06 PM 
 


 
  I have a box of mercury tubes with contacts. They were removed from switches and those old hood lamps on car.
 
 
  They still are cool to look at
 
 
  
   

 
  
   

 
  
   

   
   

   
   

   
   
~
   
   
mcvei...@gmail.com
   
  
 

   
  
 

   
  
 
 



 
  On Wed, May 27, 2020 at 5:00 PM Mac Doktor < 
  themacdok...@gmail.com> wrote: 
  
 
 
  
   
   

 
  On May 27, 2020, at 11:53 AM, alb.001 alb.001 < 
  alb@sympatico.ca> wrote:
 
 
  
   I was both lucky and stupid as I did not appreciate what the toxicity of mercury was. Doing stupid chemistry things stayed with me with many further adventures in university.
  
 
Forget elemental mercury vapor, ingesting the mercuric oxide would have been a lot more fun.
   
   

   
   
In the late '70s our chem lab in High School was straight out of the '50s. Nice old-fashioned benches and sinks but no fume hoods or anything more sophisticated than a pair of plastic goggles. Anything we couldn't pour down the sink went into a large ceramic crock in the back corner of the room. I can't remember now if it had a lid or not. Some guy came twice year to empty it.
   
   

   
   

 In the summer before my senior year I took Chemistry II which consisted of eight weeks of solid lab work for four hours a day. One Monday we walked in and there was a haze filling the entire room. We opened all of the huge windows (10~12' ceilings, steam heat and no A/C) and stood out in the hall for an hour. It had no distinct odor to it so we never did figure out what it was or where it came from.


 


 One day the teacher asked me to help him refill the small hydrous ammonia reagent bottle we used in the classroom. I held a glass funnel while he poured what was probably less than half a liter into the bottle from a jar that must have been several liters. We held our breath as the liquid filled the reagent bottle. As soon as it was full I yanked out the funnel, put it in the sink as fast as I could without breaking it and jabbed the stopper in. At the same time the teacher set the other bottle on the bench and screwed the cap on as fast as possible. As soon as our hands were free we ran out of there like two bats out of hell and stood in the hall gasping for air while tears ran down our faces.


 


 Then there was the time we were making some HCL and I got a tiny whiff. Man, that was as close to feeling like I was going to die in my entire life. Those poor sods in WWI. I can actually imagine what it was like.

   
   

   
   

   
   
Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
   
   

 "The Mac Doctor" 
  
  
 https://www.astarcloseup.com/ 
  
 "Every kid starts out as a natural-born scientist, and then we beat it out of them. A few trickle through the system with their wonder and enthusiasm for science intact."—Carl Sagan, 
 Psychology Today, 1996

   
   
  
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Re: [neonixie-l] 1961 Heathkit Catalog

2020-05-27 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I still have some GE silent mercury wall switches still in original packaging.  I also have a plastic bottle with about 5 pounds of pure mercury which I used to play with.
  Pharma Phil
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: martin martin 
   Date: May 27, 2020 at 8:06 PM
   
   
   

 I have a box of mercury tubes with contacts. They were removed from switches and those old hood lamps on car.


 They still are cool to look at


 
  
   

 
  
   

 
  
   
  
  
   
  
  
   
  
  
   ~
  
  
   mcvei...@gmail.com
  
 

   
  
 

   
  
 


   
   
   

 On Wed, May 27, 2020 at 5:00 PM Mac Doktor <
 themacdok...@gmail.com> wrote:
 


 
  
  
   

 On May 27, 2020, at 11:53 AM, alb.001 alb.001 <
 alb@sympatico.ca> wrote:


 
  I was both lucky and stupid as I did not appreciate what the toxicity of mercury was. Doing stupid chemistry things stayed with me with many further adventures in university.
 

   Forget elemental mercury vapor, ingesting the mercuric oxide would have been a lot more fun.
  
  
   
  
  
   In the late '70s our chem lab in High School was straight out of the '50s. Nice old-fashioned benches and sinks but no fume hoods or anything more sophisticated than a pair of plastic goggles. Anything we couldn't pour down the sink went into a large ceramic crock in the back corner of the room. I can't remember now if it had a lid or not. Some guy came twice year to empty it.
  
  
   
  
  
   
In the summer before my senior year I took Chemistry II which consisted of eight weeks of solid lab work for four hours a day. One Monday we walked in and there was a haze filling the entire room. We opened all of the huge windows (10~12' ceilings, steam heat and no A/C) and stood out in the hall for an hour. It had no distinct odor to it so we never did figure out what it was or where it came from.
   
   

   
   
One day the teacher asked me to help him refill the small hydrous ammonia reagent bottle we used in the classroom. I held a glass funnel while he poured what was probably less than half a liter into the bottle from a jar that must have been several liters. We held our breath as the liquid filled the reagent bottle. As soon as it was full I yanked out the funnel, put it in the sink as fast as I could without breaking it and jabbed the stopper in. At the same time the teacher set the other bottle on the bench and screwed the cap on as fast as possible. As soon as our hands were free we ran out of there like two bats out of hell and stood in the hall gasping for air while tears ran down our faces.
   
   

   
   
Then there was the time we were making some HCL and I got a tiny whiff. Man, that was as close to feeling like I was going to die in my entire life. Those poor sods in WWI. I can actually imagine what it was like.
   
  
  
   
  
  
   
  
  
   Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
  
  
   
"The Mac Doctor"


https://www.astarcloseup.com/

"Every kid starts out as a natural-born scientist, and then we beat it out of them. A few trickle through the system with their wonder and enthusiasm for science intact."—Carl Sagan, 
Psychology Today, 1996
   
  
  
 
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Re: [neonixie-l] 1961 Heathkit Catalog

2020-05-27 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  Talk about ammonia.   The thing I fear most when driving, especially on a highway is a tanker carrying anhydrous ammonia.  Several have crashed with resultant release of clear low-hanging clouds of ammonia gas.  If you drive thru one your lungs instinctively close and you suffocate while driving at speed.
  Watch out !!   Pharma Phil
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Mac Doktor 
   Date: May 27, 2020 at 8:00 PM
   
   
   
   

 
  On May 27, 2020, at 11:53 AM, alb.001 alb.001 <
  alb@sympatico.ca> wrote:
 
 
  
    I was both lucky and stupid as I did not appreciate what the toxicity of mercury was.  Doing stupid chemistry things stayed with me with many further adventures in university.
  
 
Forget elemental mercury vapor, ingesting the mercuric oxide would have been a lot more fun.
   
   

   
   
In the late '70s our chem lab in High School was straight out of the '50s. Nice old-fashioned benches and sinks but no fume hoods or anything more sophisticated than a pair of plastic goggles. Anything we couldn't pour down the sink went into a large ceramic crock in the back corner of the room. I can't remember now if it had a lid or not. Some guy came twice year to empty it.
   
   

   
   

 In the summer before my senior year I took Chemistry II which consisted of eight weeks of solid lab work for four hours a day. One Monday we walked in and there was a haze filling the entire room. We opened all of the huge windows (10~12' ceilings, steam heat and no A/C) and stood out in the hall for an hour. It had no distinct odor to it so we never did figure out what it was or where it came from.


 


 One day the teacher asked me to help him refill the small hydrous ammonia reagent bottle we used in the classroom. I held a glass funnel while he poured what was probably less than half a liter into the bottle from a jar that must have been several liters. We held our breath as the liquid filled the reagent bottle. As soon as it was full I yanked out the funnel, put it in the sink as fast as I could without breaking it and jabbed the stopper in. At the same time the teacher set the other bottle on the bench and screwed the cap on as fast as possible. As soon as our hands were free we ran out of there like two bats out of hell and stood in the hall gasping for air while tears ran down our faces.


 


 Then there was the time we were making some HCL and I got a tiny whiff. Man, that was as close to feeling like I was going to die in my entire life. Those poor sods in WWI. I can actually imagine what it was like.

   
   

   
   

   
   
Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
   
   

 "The Mac Doctor"
 
 
 https://www.astarcloseup.com/
 
 "Every kid starts out as a natural-born scientist, and then we beat it out of them. A few trickle through the system with their wonder and enthusiasm for science intact."—Carl Sagan, 
 Psychology Today, 1996

   
   
  
   
  
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Re: [neonixie-l] 1961 Heathkit Catalog

2020-05-27 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  The high school I went to in the 1960's was refurbishing the chemistry lab and they simply discarded all the bottles of chemicals into waste bins in what was the playground behind the school.  I looked thru the bins and took many jars of chemicals home including red mercuric oxide. When I got home, I put the mercury compound in one of my mother's frying pans and put it on the stove and heated it up.  The compound decomposed to produce liquid mercury with some vaporizing.  I took it off the stove to let it cool.  I am sure I must have inhaled some mercury but never became symptomatic of any poisoning - I was both lucky and stupid as I did not appreciate what the toxicity of mercury was.  Doing stupid chemistry things stayed with me with many further adventures in university.
  Pharma Phil
  
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: "'jf...@my-deja.com' via neonixie-l" 
   Date: May 27, 2020 at 9:50 AM
   
   
   
We kept ours in an Erlenmeyer flask, and I could never get my hand past the bottleneck.

On Wednesday, May 27, 2020 at 1:06:26 AM UTC-7, Terry Kennedy wrote:

 
  
   
  
  
   I grew up in a time where in elementary school you got to dip your hand up to the wrist in a bottle of mercury,
   
  
 

   
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Re: [neonixie-l] OT: Help with mysterious part

2020-05-20 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  My  Wang Labs calculator has a core plane memory for programs.  When it did very long calculations, it could be turned off at the end of the day. The next day, you turn it on and a red lamp turns on to remind you that it is still in the middle of a calculation and continues until a result was displayed on it's nixie tube read-outs.  So nothing in memory was lost when the power was turned off !.  Very cool.
  Pharma Phil
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: 'Ian Vine' via neonixie-l 
   Date: May 20, 2020 at 10:15 PM
   
   
   
Great example of core memory. 
   
   

   
   
Interesting about the core dump. I guess that would even work after a power failure. 
   
   

   
   
IanV
   
   


 On 21 May 2020, at 01:28, Bill van Dijk  wrote:
 
 

   
   

 
  
 
  
 
 
  Most people have heard the term “core dump”, and some even use it without any idea where that came from. Those old computers worked slow, taking sometimes several days to work on a single program. When a “bug” developed (seriously, bugs shorting out things happened) the computer was stopped, repaired, and a core dump was done. Remember, these magnetic cores kept their data, not like solid state RAM. From the core dump it was determined where the program stopped. And often it could be restarted where it left off, saving having to restart.
   
  Now you knowBill
   
  From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of SWISSNIXIE - Jonathan F.Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 4:43 PMTo: neonixie-l Subject: [neonixie-l] OT: Help with mysterious part
   
  
   
Hi guys,
   
   
 
   
   
I know this is kind of OT, but I've noticed that a lot of people here are way older than me, and therefore know more about vintage tech.
   
   
 
   
   
This item is sitting around in my house for quite some time, but i have no idea what exactly it is. See attached images. I'm guessing it has something to do with memory. The small dip-looking parts around the device are diodes that look upright and are all connected to a common source. No markings about part number or manufacturer. The structure under the plexi-glass looks like something woven out of wire or a grid or something. It also looks like wires are going into a black material.
   
   
 
   
   
 
   
   
Any idea what it is, how old it is, or in what it was used?
   
   
 
   
   
Thanks!
   
   
 
   
  
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Re: [neonixie-l] OT: Help with mysterious part

2020-05-20 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  Early core plane memories were made by women weavers. Later, IBM developed a machine to make them - much faster to produce and way cheaper.
  Pharma Phil
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: gregebert 
   Date: May 20, 2020 at 6:08 PM
   
   
   
As best I can tell, it looks like a 256x18 array, which probably has 2 bits of parity.

 


 I was told years ago these cores were threaded by hand.


 


 Years ago I played with a PDP-8, that was fully-loaded with 12K words of memory. You could hear the cores squealing when the CPU was not halted.

   
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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Shipment delays from Ukraine

2020-05-18 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I bought a fan at a liquidation store once that sold freight lost merchandise.  Inside the box was the original invoice from Walmart  with the purchasers information.  I sent her an e-mail.  She replied that it was declared lost in shipping and Walmart replace it about 8 months ago.
  Lost in transit is a huge business and lots of companies buy contracts to purchase the stuff shipping companies cannot deliver.   I once bought a book that was on inter-library loan which was declared lost by the post office.  The book was in Spanish and about 200 years old.  The inter-library loan papers were still in the book and I contacted the library which was waiting for the book.  They gave me a reward for returning the book to them.
  Pharma Phil 
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Paul Andrews 
   Date: May 18, 2020 at 1:52 PM
   
   You may still get it. A long time ago, a video game I ordered from Amazon was marked as delivered, though it hadn’t been, so they shipped another. A year later the original showed up.
   
   
   
Sent from my iPad
   
   


 On May 18, 2020, at 10:48 AM, martin martin  wrote:
 
 

   
   

 
 
  
 
 
  
   3+ months ago I ordered a PoE switch for my house cams.  Took 2 months For the order  to get “lost” in the port of LA.  Finally the USPS sent me a note it was actually lost. 
  
  
   
  
  
   Luckily the vendor in China refunded due to lost  order!  
  
  
   
  
  
   
  
  
  
   
On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 07:11 Robert G. Schaffrath <
robert.schaffr...@gmail.com> wrote:

   
   

 I have several items ordered through AliExpress languishing in shipment since mid April. Some items ordered a week or two earlier actually made it through but everything else from early April is listed as delivered to air transport (or shipping) in mid-April and there are no further updates. My guess is that with so many flights curtailed, there are thousands and thousands of shipping containers stacked at various airports around the world waiting for flights to resume. I need some repair parts for a FitBit surge but at this point it makes no sense ordering since they will gladly take my money now but I may not see actual delivery until July/August.
 
  
 
 
  Standard/economy international shipping seems to basically be on hold at this point.
 

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Re: [neonixie-l] 1961 Heathkit Catalog

2020-05-03 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  good for you fixing a vintage microwave.   Mine is also an oldie - an engagement gift pre 1986.  All of a sudden the timer countdown works but no microwaves being generated.   I asked a friend who told me to check all the micro-switches and sure enough they were all heavily pitted from arcing. I replaced them all and used silver solder to fix them.   Still works great.   Knowing soldering saved my old stuff many a time. 
  Pharma Phil  
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Instrument Resources of America 
   Date: May 3, 2020 at 2:31 AM
   
   
   I had to repair my 45 plus year old Sharp kitchen microwave oven just last week. A relay's coil terminal, solder joint on the PCB was completely cracked all the way around the pin. Re-soldered it and works just like new. I chalked it up to the constant vibration of the door being shut. Ira.
   
   
On 5/2/2020 3:24 PM, '
jf...@my-deja.com' via neonixie-l wrote:

   
   

 
  It was meant as a joke. I still use SnPb eutectic solder, and I think my ~1 kg is a lifetime supply I think I can blame this for my dumbness, since I used to hold the solder in my teeth during construction and repair.
 
 
  
 
 
  I have this religious belief, scientifically not proven, that Pb-free solder made some of the surface-mount boards in my car less reliable. There were some medium-power current-limiting resistors where one of the solder joints eventually cracked ad left an open circuit. I blame this on the ROHS solder being more brittle and the thermal cycling eventually fatiguing and cracking the solder after 5-10 years.
  
 
 
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Re: [neonixie-l] clock with Sperry SP-151

2020-04-25 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  if you can remove the displays from the board, I would try holding a small high voltage high frequency AC source near them and see if the neon turns on  - you do not need to touch the pins to this high voltage  ( I use my trusty  DermaWand  )
  hope this help
  Phrama Phil
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: N9KTW 
   Date: April 25, 2020 at 12:19 PM
   
   
   
Hi All:

 


 With the "shelter in place" going on I have a lot of time to work on the projects that have been "staring at me"


 
 
  
 
 
  I have a Sperry "evaluation" clock which uses the sp-151 + sp-232 displays. I acquired it in 2015, and it has never lit up as long as I have had it. I went and replaced capacitors, transistors, and resistors (I think on the resistors), with no luck. I have also tried swapping the MM5314 chip with a working pull. Still nothing.
 
 
  
 
 
  Is it possible that the displays have merely reached the end of their useful life and are just no good? I have the manuals for the clock and am at a loss as to where to go from here. Can anyone help me ? I would love to get it working, as there is a special place in my heart for old electronics (my XYL, and Accountant both HATE my Heathkit GC-1195 With the chime kit that I restored the case and converted the display to LED's)
 
 
  
 
 
  Anyone have any ideas where I should start looking for problems?
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
  de Howard, N9KTW
 
 
  
 
 
  
 

   
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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Discovered an old advertisment

2020-04-03 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  there is a seller on eBay from France with a whole garden shed full of  Styrofoam boxes of B-7971  nixies.  He puts them up whenever he feels like it.  He does take great photos of them   but I could never afford his prices.
  Pharma Phil
  
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Terry Kennedy 
   Date: April 3, 2020 at 3:13 PM
   
   
   
On Friday, April 3, 2020 at 11:12:14 AM UTC-4, M1 wrote:

 
  
   I have seen a premade Styrofoam case that held many tubes on ebay before.
  
 


 


 From the foam trays I've seen (for example: 
 https://www.glaver.org/transient/b7971tray.jpg ) they were simple carriers that the repair techs used to bring tubes to sites with the displays installed. One theory is that Ultronic changed the tubes out before failure, due to the consequences of displaying incorrect information. Or maybe they were replaced only when they failed, but given that we have been operating these tubes in clocks for longer than the LECTRASCAN system was in use, without tube failures, I don't think that is likely, given the amount of wear and tear seen on these trays.


 


 Burroughs likely had some other customers for these, since they did sell a few of the other alphanumeric types. But given the rarity of those compared to 7971's, I think it is safe to say that the vast majority of production went into LECTRASCAN displays.


 


 The "antenna" style 7971 is the older type, and was used to set the height of the display inside the envelope. Quite a long time ago (it may have even been in the Yahoo group) I posted a survey of date codes, branding, and fabrication type (antenna or not, steep or shallow underscore, rivets or not, etc. A number of people added to it.

   
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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Have you seen these neons on Amazon?

2020-04-02 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  the photo of the energized lamp shows orange neon-like colour  so probably neon gas content includes some argon which generates UV to activate the phosphor coating.  I purchased a large number of similar bulbs with 2 inch leads from the former Active Surplus in Toronto.  Electronic Goldmine also used to have them.
  Cheers  Pharma Phil
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: gregebert 
   Date: April 2, 2020 at 2:37 PM
   
   
   
I've bought similar bulbs, with leads. Several years ago I bought a box of 1000 green "NE-2" from China, and sold a few batches to neo-nixie members.

 


 It's hard to tell what the internal gas is, but when it ionizes it also causes the phosphor coating of the bulb's interior to glow. The nice thing is that the glowing area is the entire interior surface of the bulb, and not just the negative electrode in a conventional neon bulb. When off, the bulb appears white. Other colors such as blue, red, yellow, and white are available.


 

   
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[neonixie-l] Displaying unused tubes

2020-03-01 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  beware of some foam materials which are acidic and corrosive.  I kept a few DIP devices from the 1970's and early 1980's which were stored in the conductive black foam used with static sensitive devices.  All the pins which were in this foam material have disintegrated and sadly the IC's are no longer useable.   Is there anyone here with conservator training who could advise us on safe storage materials.
  Pharma Phil. 
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: "SWISSNIXIE - Jonathan F." 
   Date: March 1, 2020 at 3:54 PM
   
   
   

 You mean "display" in form of putting them anywhere you can see them?


 


 There is one material usually used when large dip-style components, its like styrofoam but its made out of plastics to you can easily push in the dip-pins, works with tubes too. Also one possible form would be to keep them in some kind of transparent tube (with caps). For Horizontal tubes it might be an idea to build some kind of a stand.
 

   
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RE: [neonixie-l] Nixie Calculator Bundle...

2020-02-26 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I have one with the keyboard and the spark erosion printer.  It uses a core plane non-volatile memory.  If you programmed a lengthy calculation, you could just switch it off at the end of the work day. The next day when you turned it back on a red lamp indicating that it was still calculating switched on until it finally finished.  I still have it but have not turned it on in decades.
  Pharma Phil
  
   
   
   
   -- Original Message --
   From: Jeff Walton 
   Date: February 25, 2020 at 5:58 PM
   
   
   
I spent a lot of time on this exact calculator. The control box was up in an unventilated ceiling at the office and it used to lock up when it got hot. If you enjoy flashing nixies, this is the ticket!
 
Jeff

 From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Nicholas StockSent: Tuesday, February 25, 2020 4:46 PMTo: 'Greg P' via neonixie-lSubject: [neonixie-l] Nixie Calculator Bundle...

 

 
  https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wang-Scientific-Calculator-360SE-With-Nixie-Tube-Keyboards-/264646644101?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276
 
 
   
 
 
  Now here's an interesting listingnot exactly a desktop calculator, but would make an interesting restoration!
 
 
   
 
 
  Not my listing etc, etc
 
 
   
 
 
  Nick
 

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[neonixie-l] my way of Testing Nixies

2020-01-30 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  Cheap HV power supply method :
  I built my own HV power supply for testing nixies.  Look around at second hand or thrift type stores for a single use camera with flash and manual film advance with a single or two AA batteries    Ones with a neon ready light are best  These have a 330 volt DC power supply for the flash.   You just cut off paper cover and pry the shell open  you will see the HV module and a large HV capacitor.  I replace the battery and turn on the flash - either a push button or slide switch.  If the neon glows in less than 30 second the HV works.  Turn off the flash and short the HV capacitor with am insulated screwdriver to prevent shocks  Remove the battery, and HV module and HV capacitor together.   Make a note of where the switch was attached and polarity of where the battery was attached.   I put these in a plastic box with battery holder, toggle switch and HV leads that go to red/black alligator clips  thru a 25 K resistor for current control   That's it, cost me about 5 dollars and is pocketable   I take it to all the hamfests and flea markets I go to and check any nixies before I buy.
  Phamacy Phil 
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: John Snow 
   Date: January 30, 2020 at 3:33 PM
   
   
   

 Ahh, this is for testing them as they arrive, then shelving them for future projects.


 


 I saw 
 Marcin Saj has a few testers, but they seem more for socket-pin tubes.


 


 The knobs also don't have settings I can set it to for different tubes, or a display for the current voltage or current.


 

   
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[neonixie-l] noisey clock

2020-01-08 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  Some people are very sensitive to humming and ticking sounds especially at night. Back in the 1070's I bought an Accutron wrist watch with the tuning fork time base.  At night the humming was loud enough that I put it in drawer on the far side of my bedroom.   My first LED clock has always been my favourite  ( from a Radio Shack ad fir the boards. ) - totaly silent  it still works great today.
  Pharma Phil.
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: gregebert 
   Date: January 8, 2020 at 12:13 PM
   
   
   
Our bedroom clock has 8 tubes (b7971), and is PIR activated. Needless to say, it's very bright when on. I set the timeout to 100 seconds, and I dont ever recall being awakened by the display turning-on. A future project is to modify the code so it reports how many times the PIR sensor was triggered during the night. I dont use any kind of dimming, mainly because people have reported audible noise from tubes that use PWM dimming.

 


 Both of our kids (now grown and moved-out) built 6-tube clocks with b5092 tubes, and they never complained about the seconds ticking-away at night; they actually liked it, sort of like counting sheep, etc.


 


 I think flip-dots would drive me crazy.even the mechanical flip-style clocks that were prevalent in the 1970's were a bit annoying.
 
 
  
 
 
  
 

   
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[neonixie-l] vintage calculators

2020-01-02 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  My first  calc. was a 4-function Rapid-Man from Eaton's Canada.  It cost me about $150 back in 1970  and I continued to use it at work in the pharmacy of the old Brampton Peel Memorial Hospital  - it was the first electronic calculator in the whole hospital - administration was too cheap to buy us any new high technology.  I also had the first fax machine in Brampton Ontario  it came from a Canada Government surplus sale  and when I printed out the transaction record the header was  "PMO Private Office Fax "   ie from Jean Chretien !!   
  Pharma Phil
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Mac Doktor 
   Date: January 2, 2020 at 12:19 PM
   
   
   
   

 
  On Jan 2, 2020, at 12:09 PM, gregebert <
  gregeb...@hotmail.com> wrote:
 
 
 
  
   I still have my $10 APF scientific calculator from 1976 which got me thru high school, college, and did my taxes on it for a few years thereafter.
   

   
   
The VFD display is still working nicely. Not programmable.
   
  
 


   
   
Our first calculator had a VFD and did square roots for some odd reason. No idea where it is now.
   
   

   
   
At this point I'm using an HP 35s. WAY more functions than I need but at least I've finally reached the point where RPN just seems natural. It's also quicker than the algebraic method which helps my brain a bit.
   
   

   
   
I used FORTH for a while and found the stack-based approach very intuitive. I daresay I was actually pretty good at keeping it all straight in my mind but that was many years ago on an Apple ][+.
   
   

   
   
   

 Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
 "The Mac Doctor”
 
 "Never install version point-zero of anything"

   
   
  
   
  
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[neonixie-l] pins on right of Homebrew clock at the auction.

2020-01-02 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  They look like part of the heat sink for the orange device  (a rectifier maybe  ??)Pharma  Phil
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: martin martin 
   Date: January 1, 2020 at 11:28 PM
   
   
   

   
   

 What are those pin shapes on the right side?



 
  On Wed, Jan 1, 2020 at 19:35 Ron Walsh <
  mgb1...@bellsouth.net> wrote:
  
 
 
  
   

 
  Looks to be on the same caliber as my clocks. At least it costs a lot less than some.
  
 
 
  
 
 
  ...Semper Fidelis...
 


 


 

   
  
  
   

 
  On Wednesday, January 1, 2020, 10:31:22 PM EST, Terry S <
  tschw10...@gmail.com> wrote:
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
  
   

 This caught my eye. Check out the craftsmanship: 
 


 


 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nixie-Lamp-Clock-Soviet-IN-12/392615788278?hash=item5b69b97ef6:g:JnAAAOSwiCFeCn5Q


 


 I don't know exactly what to think
 

   
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[neonixie-l] Heathkit Panaplex Clocks

2019-11-18 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  one runs correctly, the 24 hour version runs fast
  thanks for the insights
  Phil B.
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: "'jf...@my-deja.com' via neonixie-l" 
   Date: November 18, 2019 at 9:57 AM
   
   
   
Do they both run fast? Designs that simply count the mains are susceptible to noise pulses adding to the total, and most early designs were prone to this defect. If this is the case, I would try filtering out the noise spikes: ferrites on the primary side, and a low-pass on the rectified line frequency reference. (One exception was the CT-700x which could be made to run little slow or fast, depending on the setting of the MUX rate.) 

On Sunday, November 17, 2019 at 3:53:02 PM UTC-8, philthepill wrote:

 
  I bought two different models of Heath Kit clocks with flat planar neon displays. They were both plugged into two outlets on the same AC extension cord and then the extension cord was plugged into a wall receptacle. One runs as 24 hour clock, other one is a 12 hour clock After a few days they are not at the same time and the longer they run the further apart they get. I thought that they both used AC line frequency for timekeeping. Any ideas, I'm stumped by this.
  Thanks Phil B.
 

   
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[neonixie-l] Question about Heathkit Panaplex Clocks

2019-11-17 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I bought two different models of Heath Kit clocks with flat planar neon displays.    They were both plugged into two outlets on the same AC extension cord and then the extension cord was plugged into a wall receptacle.   One runs as 24 hour clock, other one is a 12 hour clock   After a few days they are not at the same time  and the longer they run the further apart they get.  I thought that they both used AC line frequency for timekeeping.    Any ideas,  I'm stumped by this.
  Thanks  Phil B.
  
   ts-- Original Message --From: Adrian Pardini Date: November 16, 2019 at 8:56 PMOn Sat, 16 Nov 2019 at 18:34, martin martin  wrote:>> I found this in storage and thought it would clean it up. I built it about that time...> It's a an 1982 vintage HEATHKIT GC-1092D> I replaced all of the electrolytic caps. It keeps fine time, except the power transformer is running at 195 F>> Any ideas?Try running it outside the clock and see if still over heats.If it doesn't look at the rectifiers.-- Adrián Pardini-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group.To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/CAF3uCZnh-bQV3Zd%2Bn73_4UYuM8AbvF-GjeZL9_BTd8YUF7_dmQ%40mail.gmail.com.
  
 




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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Open to suggestions !

2019-10-06 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I buy these old digital analog clocks at Good-Will  Sally-Ann  etc. shops and repurpose just like this to hold my own clocks.  Easy, to do and cost little to buy  - I pay $7-10 for one, remove all the guts and just use the glass dome and base.  Small controllers may actually fit into the base with only a few lines connected to the visible clock.
  Phil B.
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Dan Harboe Burer 
   Date: October 6, 2019 at 1:38 PM
   
   
   
Find something like this glass dome clock - this clock doesn't work and the dome measures approx. 28cm high and 14cm diameter... :)

 


 Dan
 
 søndag den 6. oktober 2019 kl. 17.21.49 UTC+2 skrev martin martin:
 
  
   So here's the new clock. For years I've been inclined to enclose my clock in acrylic boxes or tubes. After seeing Paul's new clock I think it's time to try another idea, I was also thinking of painting the zinc coated 2" stand-offs to flat black too.
   

   
   
Please send me an idea or two for the best enclosure for my odd little vertical clock. Dimensions are 8" tall, 2" deep, 2.5" wide. The controller board (lower left of pic) is 3.5 x 1.75.
   
   

   
   
The lowest level will have +/- Nixies and the photo resistor.
   
   

   
   

   
   
Thanks in advance for everyone's help!
   
   

   
   
martin
   
  
 

   
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Re: [neonixie-l] Re-plating tube socket pins, anyone have some experience?

2019-10-06 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I used to have a product made for gold flashing silver flatware  - spoons forks, bowls etc. You just poured it into the spoon or cup etc. and in a few minutes it had a thin gold plating. You then poured off the solution and could save it for later re-use.  I don't remember the brand name.  Not sure if  a high end kitchen type store still sells this.  Also in the years when Radio-Electronics and Popular Electronics was published there was always a small ad. for a company selling chemicals for tin plating of edge connectors etc which was to give low resistance connections - no batteries required.  Check some old issues if you can find it.
  Good luck  Phil B.
  
   -- Original Message --From: Charles MacDonald Date: October 5, 2019 at 8:11 PMOn 2019-10-04 4:33 p.m., Dekatron42 wrote:> I'd like to clean some tube socket pins in an ultrasonic bath to get rid > of the green corrosion but I don't know how to re-plate them afterwards > so they look like new and can be re-used.only outfit I have seen advertising small plating outits is Eastwood, who mostly serves the Antique car market.-- Charles MacDonald Stittsville Ontariocm...@zeusprune.ca Just Beyond the FringeNo Microsoft Products were used in sending this e-mail.-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group.To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/41c9196c-53f0-abaa-b1e7-91c5d9ac818d%40zeusprune.ca.
  
 




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[neonixie-l] My Wang calculator Re: Computer History Museum - San Jose CA

2019-07-29 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I bought a Ontario government surplus Wang calculator system which had a keyboard with nixie display of results, the logic unit with core plane memory in a small suitcase which went underneath the desk and a large printer which used aluminized paper and "printed" using spark erosion on the aluminized paper to give blackened numbers.  It was programmable and when running a long program you could turn the power off then later when you turned it on again, it continued the program-- a red light on the keyboard showed that it was in the middle of a program all thanks to the core plane memory which is non volatile without electrical pulses to modify the magnetic field orientation of the cores.
  Phil B.
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Terry Kennedy 
   Date: July 29, 2019 at 12:42 PM
   
   
   
On Sunday, July 28, 2019 at 10:45:39 PM UTC-4, martin martin wrote:

 
  This weekend I visited the Computer History Museum in San Jose. If you get the chance to go it's worth a full day. While I was wanderer though the many halls I found this 1961 12 digit Nixie calculator!
  
 


 


 A place where I worked years and years ago had Wang 360SE calculators for the engineers. A full system (as we had them) was a "logic unit" which was connected by cables to 4 "display units" and one card reader. Yes, this was a time-shared calculator! Printers, expanded memory, a CRT display (and probably others) were available as add-ons. The systems as we had them configured were around $10,000 (in 1969 dollars or around $70,000 today (according to usinflationcalculator.com). They were old when I was using them in the 70's, but even so...

   
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[neonixie-l] selling on eBay B8091's

2019-07-14 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I learned my lesson long ago.  As soon as a buyer pays for a sale, I immediately transfer the money to my bank and then I complete the transaction..    If there is a complaint, PayPal asks me to put money back in my account so that they can freeze it..  I never do it.   Their investigations are totally bogus and I have no trust in them.
  Phil B.
  
   
   
   
   -- Original Message --
   From: Michail Wilson 
   Date: July 14, 2019 at 4:28 PM
   
   
   
I have grown to hate ebay as a seller, and not much better as a buyer.
 
As a seller, ebay/paypal simply pulls the money out of your account and gives it back to the buyer. Even worse, they charge the seller.
I have sold AMC movie tickets and popcorn/soda on ebay for nearly a year. Well over 1000 sales. These are coupons to make them free. So, it’s sent via email (via ebay messaging).
I have nearly 50 disputes in the last year. Buyers claim things like, the purchases were unauthorized, say the coupon didn’t work, or I never responded. 
 
Love it when someone buys from me on 4 different times in a month, but says the 3rd purchase was unauthorized.
Or, thanks me for the coupon via ebay messaging, but says I never sent them the coupon, but the thanks was a reply to the code I sent.
 
Best part of all, is that ebay not only gives them the money back, but also charges me a $20 charge back fee on a $5 item that they lied about not getting.
 
It’s useless to try to message the chargeback team that the very thanks the buyer messaged has the code in the reply, but says I never sent it.
 
I even had a buyer that did a charge back, but in messaging bia ebay/paypal claim admits that he got the code and didn’t mean to make the chargeback. Paypal still forces the chargeback even when the buyer says he made a mistake. Like WTF is wrong with paypal/ebay.
 
Every sale I make says I have ‘Seller Protection’ which means absolutely nothing. Paypal requires a online tracking number no matter what. So, if you sell an item for $1, but don’t pay $4 for shipping with tracking, you lose. 
 
Sorry about the rant.
 
Michail Wilson
206-920-6312
 

 From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Dekatron42Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2019 9:08 AMTo: neonixie-lSubject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: B8091's

 

 
  It's a pity that eBay (and Paypal) never let you know what action they take against sellers/buyers, especially when cases like these turn up and negative feedback is removed - you never get any receipt on that they actually did anything at all! You can leave negative feedback on cancelled auctions if you can just find the correct link as eBay hides the link in your buying history, but rest assured that the seller will have that negative feedback removed by asking eBay for a removal.
 
 
   
 
 
  Reading eBay policies on how they protect the sellers at all costs is not a nice reading when you are a buyer that has been harassed by a seller or sent goods that aren't as described (even with eBay/Paypal protection it takes a lot of time to get your money back - several months in the worst case).
 
 
   
 
 
  /Martin
 
 On Sunday, 14 July 2019 17:59:15 UTC+2, Kevin A. wrote:
 
  I just got off the phone with eBay. It appears these two cases here were not isolated events. This seller has been playing games with several other buyers. 
  
    
  
  
   eBay rep assured me action will be taken against him for his unscrupulous tactics once his seller evaluation date arrives (once a month). 
  
 
  
 
  
   On Sun, Jul 14, 2019 at 11:41 AM Nicholas Stock  wrote:
  
  
   
He did what??

 Sent from my iPhone


 On Jul 14, 2019, at 08:34, Kevin A.  wrote:


 
  
   
A friend of mind tried buying 2 and the seller cancelled the order at the listed price of $200 and issued a refund. 

  


 Out of curiosity, I tried to place a similar order. He cancelled mine as well! 


  


 This guy is playing some games. I'm going to write ebay and see if they can impose some penalty for cancelling legitimate orders at the buy it now price! 


  

   
  
   
  
   
On Sat, Jul 13, 2019, 5:52 PM Dekatron42  wrote:
   
   
Or he’s trying to make you believe that he has sold some so that you think I’ better buy some while there are some left../Martin-- You received this message because you are 

[neonixie-l] protecting sellers NOT on eBay ! B8091's

2019-07-14 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  A buyer complained after delivery was slow so PayPal froze my account and a few days later refunded his money  as they had "investigated" .  When I took this up with Canada Post, they said that they do not investigate surface mail delivery  (buyer refused to pay for air mail with tracking to Paris Fr.) until after 3 months.  I eventually got proof of delivery from French Postal Service, so Canada Post would not help me.  I contacted PayPal about my proof but they refused to reply. I lost my Sony Laptop computer as well as the cost of shipping and buyer got a free computer.   
  Back in the 1990's and early 2000's  eBay did protect sellers  but they switched to protecting buyers when many bad sellers spoiled this "honour" system of commerce.   A seller is not allowed to leave bad feed-back on a buyer without significant struggle.   Bad feedback from buyers is easy to apply and tarnish the reputation of an honest seller  -- it happened to me and when I contacted eBay, they said do not remove negative feedback on a seller without a court order ! 
  Phil B.
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Dekatron42 
   Date: July 14, 2019 at 12:07 PM
   
   
   

 It's a pity that eBay (and Paypal) never let you know what action they take against sellers/buyers, especially when cases like these turn up and negative feedback is removed - you never get any receipt on that they actually did anything at all! You can leave negative feedback on cancelled auctions if you can just find the correct link as eBay hides the link in your buying history, but rest assured that the seller will have that negative feedback removed by asking eBay for a removal.
 


 


 Reading eBay policies on how they protect the sellers at all costs is not a nice reading when you are a buyer that has been harassed by a seller or sent goods that aren't as described (even with eBay/Paypal protection it takes a lot of time to get your money back - several months in the worst case).


 


 /Martin
 

On Sunday, 14 July 2019 17:59:15 UTC+2, Kevin A. wrote:

 
  I just got off the phone with eBay. It appears these two cases here were not isolated events. This seller has been playing games with several other buyers.
  
   
  
  
   eBay rep assured me action will be taken against him for his unscrupulous tactics once his seller evaluation date arrives (once a month).
  
 
 
 
  
   On Sun, Jul 14, 2019 at 11:41 AM Nicholas Stock <
   nick...@gmail.com> wrote:
   
  
  
   
He did what??



 Sent from my iPhone


 On Jul 14, 2019, at 08:34, Kevin A. <
 ka...@scarletmail.rutgers.edu
 > wrote:
 
 


 
  
   
A friend of mind tried buying 2 and the seller cancelled the order at the listed price of$200 and issued a refund.

 


 Out of curiosity, I tried to place a similar order. He cancelled mine as well!


 


 This guy is playing some games. I'm going to write ebay and see if they can impose some penalty for cancelling legitimate orders at the buy it now price!


 

   
  
  
  
   
On Sat, Jul 13, 2019, 5:52 PM Dekatron42 <
martin@gmail.com> wrote:

   
   
Or he’s trying to make you believe that he has sold some so that you think I’ better buy some while there are some left..
 
 /Martin
 
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[neonixie-l] ?? Really ??

2019-07-09 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  When I view it, it states  shipping  US$25 woldwide
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Mac Doktor 
   Date: July 9, 2019 at 6:45 PM
   
   
   
   

 
  On Jul 9, 2019, at 5:03 PM, Mark Moulding <
  urros...@att.net> wrote:
 
 
 
  
   This just came across my in-box.  I was looking at that "Candy-Ferrari" clock (for $10k).  I think eBay's database must have screwed up somehow...
  
 


   
   
It says "local pickup" with no shipping option and it's in Romania:
   
   

   
   
https://www.ebay.com/itm/IV11-VFD-tubes-Nixie-era-alarm-clock-thermometer-assembled-kit-NEW-VERSION/323853594090
   
   

   
   
   
Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
"The Mac Doctor"

Detective Gregory: “Is there any other point to which you would wish to draw my attention?”
Sherlock Holmes: “To the curious incident of the dog in the night-time.”
Gregory: “The dog did nothing in the night-time.”
Holmes: “That was the curious incident.” —  
Silver Blaze, Sir Arthur Conan-Doyle
   
   
  
   
  
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[neonixie-l] how do I download these Papers on Trochotrons 1948, 1954

2019-07-06 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I tried on Win 7 computer  to download as a PDF file but only get book cover   I can slowly go from page to next page but no functionality to download a PDF from dropbox.  Any help appreciated
  Thanks Phil
  
   -- Original Message --From: 'Grahame' via neonixie-l Date: July 6, 2019 at 3:33 AMTwo more books scanned by Martin Forsberg.Ok, you say, what's a Trochotron? Read and find out... I ask you to download and keep these books in your ebook collection as the wider these scans get spread, the greater is the chance of their survival...https://www.dropbox.com/s/x9h265x8ok5uequ/Development_of_Trochotrons_Bj%C3%B6rkman_Lindberg-OCR.pdf?dl=0https://www.dropbox.com/s/6w1ku05wlrasv0a/Theoory_and_Applications_of_Trochotrons_H_Alfv%C3%A9n_1948-OCR.pdf?dl=028MB and 9MB respectively.Grahame-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group.To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/ca578931-87bf-289f-fc39-72269b1159bf%40googlemail.com.For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
  
 




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[neonixie-l] appraised value vs replacement value Nixie collection insurance?

2019-07-01 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  Beware of appraisals for "insured value"  vs real world replacement costs.  Many appraisers inflate an insurance appraisal making an item seem worth more than present replacement cost.  You insurance rider will be based on a percentage of the appraised value. I always try to get an appraisal for retail value and if the appraiser will not agree then I find another appraiser who will do this.   There is no benefit in paying insurance on appraised value which exceeds replacement cost but it will raise the insurance premium of the insured item.
  If you ever watch Antiques Roadshow type shows, items are appraised for a certain value then given an "insurance value" which greatly exceeds the actual appraised value.
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Nicholas Stock 
   Date: July 1, 2019 at 1:57 PM
   
   
   

 For those outside the USA, then this may be helpful...


 


 https://www.progressive.com/answers/insurance-rider/

   
   
   

 On Mon, Jul 1, 2019 at 10:53 AM Tidak Ada <
 offl...@zeelandnet.nl> wrote:
 


 
  A correct Insurance is not an ordinary fire and burglary insurance.
  
   What you need is a special collection insurance or a special valuables policy. Of cource for a corresponding premium.
   


 Verstuurd vanaf mijn iPhone


 Op 1 jul. 2019 om 19:28 heeft Tidak Ada <
 offl...@zeelandnet.nl> het volgende geschreven:
 
 


 
  Thieves also read internet comms and also follow eBay.
  
  
  
   Verstuurd vanaf mijn iPhone
  
  
   Op 1 jul. 2019 om 18:07 heeft Nicholas Stock <
   nickst...@gmail.com> het volgende geschreven:
   
   
  
  
   

 
  Neither does fire...;-)
 
 
  
 
 
  I have considered taking a rider out on my collection for home-owners insuranceinflation in prices has definitely got me thinking about it more
  
 



 
  On Mon, Jul 1, 2019 at 8:58 AM David Forbes <
  nixiebu...@gmail.com> wrote:
  
 
 
  
   Thieves have no idea what to do with Nixie tubes.
  
  
  
   
On Mon, Jul 1, 2019, 7:39 AM alex nolan <
masterscriptmaker...@gmail.com> wrote:

   
   

 
  Has anyone gotten insurance for their nixie tube collection?
 
 
  
 
 
  I've started accumulating quite the collection of items and am a bit astounded at how much it all adds up to. And some items are pretty rare, even if I spent $x, it might cost $5x to get another one.
 
 
  
 
 
  Cheers,
 
 
  Alex
  
 

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[neonixie-l] eBay feedback...

2019-06-26 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I had a situation where the winner never paid and never received the item then a day later he left negative feed back that I misrepresented it and that it was broken ( how would he know?)   Anyway I contacted eBay and asked if they would remove the false malicious feed back in view of him not paying etc.  They replied that they only do it if there is a court order.  So it stuck but a few weeks later a lot of his mean spurious feed back caused eBay to delist him but my negative feed back remained for a year.
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Instrument Resources of America 
   Date: June 26, 2019 at 6:18 PM
   
   
   I don't understand that. My understanding is that once feedback is left by the buyer, I know for a fact, from talking with an Ebay rep, that the BUYER can NOT remove it. I believe that the same is also true for the seller. HOWEVER it is my understanding that the current feedback system is on a rolling 12 month system, so that feedback that is older than 12 months is automatically deleted. Is that what happened here?? If someone knows something different, please let us all know. Ira.
   
   
On 6/26/2019 3:01 PM, 'Greg P' via neonixie-l wrote:

   
   

 Forgot to mention. Seller deleted negative feedback. When I checked the listing this morning, there was negative feedback posted by someone. It's since been deleted.
 
  
 
 
  Potential buyers seriously proceed with caution buying from this seller.
 
 
  
 
 
   
   On Wednesday, June 26, 2019 at 12:31:14 PM UTC-4, SWISSNIXIE - Jonathan F. wrote:
  
   

 Spottet this on ebay, if anyone is interested:
 


 


 https://www.ebay.com/itm/NIXIE-GIANT-TUBE-3-IN-DIA-BURROUGHS-B8091-FULLY-TESTED-SET-OF-5/283528668460?


 


 And not such a "bad" price for this rare B8091s... i
 

   
  
 
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[neonixie-l] not really Good Source for Nixies, Numitrons and other goodies

2019-05-24 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  If you look  they list a large number with data sheets and pin-outs  but most have been sold out a long time ago.  I wish they still had more.
  Phil B  
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: martin martin 
   Date: May 24, 2019 at 12:44 PM
   
   
   
https://www.sphere.bc.ca/test/nixies.html


 


 

   
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[neonixie-l] pictures blocked ?? Re: IN-28's in real life...

2019-05-23 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I tried clicking on one of the links then deleted the =... at the end of the URL but Google still blocks viewing.  Could you just add them to a copy of your email.
  Thanks Phil
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Tyler Bourne 
   Date: May 23, 2019 at 12:24 PM
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
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[neonixie-l] salvaging LED's light bulb teardown

2019-05-03 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I have some lighting strips 18-24 inches long with white LED's that were the backlight for large screen TV's. Electronics Goldmine also sells they )  I noticed that they had some small holes in the pc board material and power connections at the end. Since they are so thin and light I mounted one over my front door outside, snaked a power line 12 volts from inside my garage to it and connected the power supply to a dusk to dawn timer in the garage.  Now it is easy for us to find the keyholes in the lock and it self adjusts for seasonal daylight.  Has worked for several years so far.
  Small circular LED arrays can be used as task lighting or to illuminate items in you home - they use little power and do not overheat. Since the power supply is UL rated  there are no insurance issues either.
  Phil B
  
   
   
   
   
   
   -- Original Message --
   From: johnk 
   Date: May 3, 2019 at 2:28 AM
   
   
   
They interest me too. I do troubleshooting for a mate who imports LED lights. 
When you pull apart OR store the LEDs make sure that you do not put any real pressure on the soft rubbery potting/encapsulation of the LEDs.
COB LEDs are easily damaged – the bonding wires are delicate.
 
Some suppliers here are still claiming 20,000 – 50,000 hours lifetime time for the whole lamp. Sometimes even when the driver is separate, they include the driver still.
They are/will get their fingers burnt. Australian consumer laws are very good for the consumer. In general terms we get a lifetime warranty regardless of what the seller says, because things have to be fit for purpose. [It could be argued that some of those tiny low temp electrolytics are not.]
The difficulties arise with consumer goods like a TV. Even though the electronics should be expected to last for many many years, the “trade” has gradually influenced the government to believe that a TV has an accepted limited life [short] because so many new models keep coming out. The assumption is that a new model has some new benefit wished-for by the public [not so, of course.]
 
Even some large retailers don’t understand. This was underlined when a program called “Checkout” iirc ran on a government sponsored TV network here. Years ago I had an issue with a product and a BIG retailer – it was short-circuited by the fact that HP actually used the wording from our government consumer affairs law in their warranty information. 
We can claim reasonable costs in returning/collecting replacements etc too.
[And Australia was in main responsible for forcing Steam to accept returns on software. I forget how many million they were fined.]
 
Any other countries with good protections?
 
[oops, sorry for the hijack of topic :-0 ]
 
John Kaesehagen
Australia
 
From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of gregebertSent: Friday, 3 May 2019 14:32To: neonixie-lSubject: [neonixie-l] OT: LED light bulb teardown
 

 Since we all love to tinker with electronic items, I thought I should share this. Whenever an LED bulb fails, I take it apart for the LED assembly. Usually, it's the driver electronics that fails, leaving the LEDs intact. But on rare occasions an LED chip actually fails open and in 1 case I simply jumpered it across. As you can see, none of these are identical which shows there is constant redesign going on. Guess which of these was a floodlight ???
 
   
 
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
 
   
 
 
  So, how efficient are these things ? Well, it takes about 50 volts to get most of these glowing. Even at 400uA (20mW) there's a decent amount of light coming out.
 
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
 
  At about 10mA, it's so bright the photo washes-out and it's very annoying to look directly at it. Just 1/2 watt, or about the power of a larger nixie tube. Beyond that, they get so bright that you risk eye damage. One quick glance at 40mA gave me blind-spots for several minutes. Even at 40mA (2+ watts), there's not too much heat generated and it measured about 60 C .
 
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
 
  As for reliability, this is about all that has failed over the past few years within our community, as I maintain about 200 lightbulbs in the alleyways.
 
 
  I'm glad no glass is used; the easiest way to tear them down is by squashing in a bench vise, then picking out what you want with some pliers.
 
 
  And no, I have absolutely no idea what I will use these for; right now they just collect in a jar.
 
 
   
 
 
  They're just too interesting to throw out.just like the neon bulbs and nixie tubes I started salvaging years ago.
 
 
   
 

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[neonixie-l] tiny neons source for colon separators

2019-04-28 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  CAUTION high voltage information :
  If you look around for single-use cameras with flash tube on the upper front which are made for weddings etc - I find them at resale stores such as  Good Will or Salvation army etc.for a dollar  - I press and hold down the flash button on the front of the camera and if the ready light comes on in neon orange ( but not LED green or red),  then it contains a tiny neon lamp which can be removed after the outer shell of the camera is removed. If the camera is very old, the internal AA-battery may be discharged and no light comes on.  Watch out for the high voltage capacitor inside - it may have up to 330 volts across the terminals - I discharge with a screw driver and get a loud bang.  Do this discharge before any further handling of the flash board.
  
   -- Original Message --From: Paul Andrews Date: April 28, 2019 at 7:21 AMThey don’t need AC. They will run off DC, but only one electrode will light up. Also, 60V will be either the maintenance voltage or the minimum strike voltage. You can think of them as small Nixie tubes, so you just need to calculate a suitable current limiting resistor, like you do for nixies.-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group.To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/736e02a1-838a-473f-93b8-3b52b1101ea1%40googlegroups.com.For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
  
 




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Re: [neonixie-l] Lot's of high priced B7971 from France...

2019-04-15 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I remember this seller from a few years ago on eBay  had a storage locker full of these.  He used to show them on what looked like his back porch back then.  He had thousands of them
  Phil from Brampton
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Shaun Merrigan 
   Date: April 15, 2019 at 10:16 AM
   
   I see 36 tubes which makes EUR 8280.  I wonder how long they have been in storage?
   

   
   
Shaun M.



 Sent from my iPad6
 
  
   
  
  
   No Regret
  
  
   
  
 


 On Apr 15, 2019, at 08:11, Bill Notfaded <
 notfad...@gmail.com> wrote:
 
 


 
  
   https://www.ebay.com/itm/113719148939?ul_noapp=true
   
  
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Re: [neonixie-l] OT: Duracell power bank

2019-04-07 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  You don't need to go all the across the ocean. I bought a 10,000mAh power bank, USB rechargeable with battery status indicator for about $15 from a store in Toronto..  It was a promotional product for intuit QuickBooks.  No brand name on it but it has an item number 7121-18WH on the back.  made in China.   Look around, they are not rare.
  Good luck Phil for Brampton ON.
  
   -- Original Message --From: jb-electronics Date: April 7, 2019 at 7:06 PMHello Nixie friends,This is a bit of an off-topic thing, but I finally caved and realized that I need a USB power bank because my phone runs out of battery too quickly when I travel. I found this nice-looking power bank from Duracell here:     https://www.duracell.co.uk/product/powerbank-6700mah/I am having a hard time finding it for sale outside of the UK, though, and they do not ship to Canada. If there is somebody in this group who is based in the UK and is willing to get it for me, I would be more than grateful. Please send me an email off-list. Many thanks!Best wishesJens-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group.To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/888e157c-48c6-0e68-51a7-fa8a1cfcf0ce%40jb-electronics.de.For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
  
 




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[neonixie-l] re warantee on unproven products

2019-02-09 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I have a set of a ratchet driver and sockets that were sold by the largest department store in Canada - Eaton's  which offered a lifetime warrantee on this product.  I still use it but store is long gone - just like Sears    there is no warrantee service available any more.  Giving a 15 year guarantee on an untested product is just smoke and of no value. What if the seller changes their company name and they no longer exit ?  They might still use the same address and contact information but they no longer "exist"   I have this very issue with the company that built my house  - they changed their name and when I called about poor quality they answered the phone but said they were now a "different company" and did not do warrantee service under their first name, and then they blocked me from calling them any more.
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: gregebert 
   Date: February 9, 2019 at 12:40 PM
   
   
   
Considering only 3 USD has been pledged so far, they have a long way to go and there isn't a lot of confidence from investors.

 


 They should have several batches of tubes running thru burn-in, and I did not see that in the video; I dont know how they can backup a 15 year warranty if tube lifetime is unknown.


 I would be running several tubes at elevated current & temperature.

   
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[neonixie-l] How dangerous is 150V - 170V DC?

2019-02-01 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I was taught that anything over about 40 volts  either AC or DC  should be avoided.   Saying that I have been zapped by the 340 volts of a camera flash capacitor strong enough to make me jump  but watched in fascination as I drew a spark from cold cathode power supply to my finger tip  which was probably over 1000 volts but high frequency and low current.   As others have said,  your skin resistance varies all over depending on your age, emotions, relative humidity age etc etc  , so the chance of drawing a significant voltage and current is not predictable.  I always avoid contact with anything over 12 volts just in case.  there is always a possibility of electrocution and we all need to be careful.
  Phil B.
  
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: gregebert 
   Date: February 1, 2019 at 10:04 AM
   
   
   
Here is a link I found : 
https://www.asc.ohio-state.edu/physics/p616/safety/fatal_current.html

 The fatal current range is 100-200mA . How they determined this is probably an ethical question.
 


 


 As you said, having series resistance is what can save you, unless you touch the other side, such as across a capacitor, then you are unprotected.


 


 Skin-resistance varies wildly; I measured my dry skin resistance between 3 and 8 megs


 Wet skin resistance was 300-600K


 I would NOT rely on those numbers, because as I measured it the value wasnt stable, even if I tried gripping the leads tightly.


 


 If your design is isolated, just be sure never to touch more than 1 circuit point. Remember that any test equipment (such as a scope) connected to your circuit will usually adda path to ground, which means your circuit is NOT isolated anymore.


 If your circuit is hot, use an isolation transformer. But beware that connecting any grounded test equipment will undo the benefit of isolation.


 


 

   
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Re: [neonixie-l] NL5441A / B5441A needed to replace damaged tubes from home theft. Source?

2019-01-14 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I think they are just "fishing" for e-mail addresses and probably don't really have any stock
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Ulysses Balis 
   Date: January 14, 2019 at 1:42 PM
   
   
   

 Hi Robert,
 
  
 
 
  So sorry to hear of your loss. Six NL5441A tubes appear to be available here for $50 each:
 
 
  
 
 
  https://www.chipnet.com/SearchResults.asp?criteria=Begins+With=NL-5441A
  
 
 
  
 
 
  Best,
 
 
  
 
 
  U. Balis
 

   
   
   

 On Wed, Jan 9, 2019 at 10:26 AM Robert Hume <
 profroberth...@gmail.com> wrote:
 


 
  So... I suffered a home theft and one of the stolen items was a custom made device that used 6 nixie tubes.
  
   While the device was recovered, all of the tubes themselves had been broken. :(
  
  
   
  
  
   It used (6) NL5441A tubes. I really desire the A version with the smooth top to maintain the original appearance.
  
  
   Does anyone know where I may be able to obtain some of these? All of my searches so far have come up empty, for any price.
  
  
   
  
  
   If anyone has any available or knows someone who does I would greatly appreciate it!
  
  
   
  
 
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[neonixie-l] GM tube for : Old Russian Beta Radiometer

2018-12-12 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  Electronics Goldmine in Denver Co  also has a vast assortment of Russian GM tubes and full and semi kits for implimenting them.
  good luck  pharma Phil
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: GastonP 
   Date: December 12, 2018 at 8:11 AM
   
   
   

 There are lots of geiger tubes for sale on eBay. If you could post a high res picture of the inside of the equipment probably some of us could help.


 I am a big fan of geiger tubes (hey, they have gas inside !!!) and habe bought more than a couple from the ex-USSR.


 


 Gastón
 

On Wednesday, December 12, 2018 at 12:06:47 AM UTC-3, Tyler Bourne wrote:

 
  
   Hello everyone. A while back I bought a "Beta Radiometer" on ebay. It has a lovely Nixie display including a bar graph tube.
  
  
   I recently got fuses for it and was able to power it up. It looks like it still works perfectly.
  
  
   
  
  
   It is missing the actual detector and has several sockets on the bottom. Since this is some old Soviet Military equipment I have been unable to find any information about it.
  
  
   Just thought I would post some pictures here for your viewing pleasure.
  
  
   
  
  
   If anyone is able to find any information at all on this device please let me know. It would be great if I could figure out how to connect up a detector tube to this thing.
  
  
   
  
  
   If anyone wants more pictures or a video let me know.
   
  
   
  
  
  
  
   
  
  
   
  
 

   
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[neonixie-l] Reasonable quality step-up converter?

2018-11-05 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  This Krieger is an up/down bi-directional converter.  I have one made in Korea, also up/down  converter   and it only contains a large toroidal transformer and I suspect this one is also just a large transformer in a box and unlikely to have any solid-state conversion going on. especially since it is "heavy"  so lots of iron core  inside ?   So no clue why the display is wonky.
  Phil
  
   -- Original Message --From: Charles MacDonald Date: November 4, 2018 at 4:15 PMOn 2018-11-04 3:17 p.m., jb-electronics wrote:> Hi again,> > Thank you for all your advice. I I am located in Alberta, far away from > Ontario, so I had to find some other solution. I should mention that I > live on campus (doing my Ph.D.) and so I do not have any access to the > breaker panel or any 240V outlets in the building. I ended up getting > the Krieger 450W step-up converter for around CAD 85 (including > shipping),> So I hooked it up to the step-up converter and I get a very strange > behavior: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZC47kkjh1schow clean is the output of your inverter? some just output square waves, which might be confusing the processor in your soldering station. it almost looks like it is getting a "reset" and rebooting.many folks have the same problem with inverters that run 110V stuff of their 12V system in a Motor Home or car.-- Charles MacDonald Stittsville Ontariocm...@zeusprune.ca Just Beyond the FringeNo Microsoft Products were used in sending this e-mail.-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group.To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/f48a6bed-160f-e5ec-00fb-442fc03cfacd%40zeusprune.ca.For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
  
 




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Re: [neonixie-l] OT: Reasonable quality step-up converter?

2018-10-24 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  where in Canada are you  ?   I have several quite big heavy duty ones.  check for any  hamfests   ( just google that term)  in your area - often there are many available there because they were used to run CB type radios etc. It's an amateur electronics style flea market.   I am in Brampton Ont  so if you are not too far we could meet up   they are too heavy to ship.
  Thanks  Phil
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: jb-electronics 
   Date: October 24, 2018 at 2:20 PM
   
   
   Hi folks,
   This is a bit off-topic, but I hope somebody can help. As some of you know I live in Canada, but I am originally from Germany. Most of my tools can be switched between 110V/220V input, so that's fine, except for my soldering station. It is a Weller 40W digital station that I have had for years and I do not want to buy a new one. The problem: it only has a 220V input.
   So I was looking for a step-up converter, and I was surprised by the crappy quality of almost everything out there. If you look on Amazon or Ebay, there are a lot of types very similar to this one here:
   
http://www.amazon.com/Instapark-ITU-500-Voltage-Converter-Transformer/dp/B07B9F87HG/
   
   Usually around USD 50 with quite a few negative reviews (typically around 10%) of people saying it eventually almost burned up their house. Not interested! So I was trying to find something reasonable, which turned out to be a bit more difficult that I had originally anticipated. I found these here:
   
http://www.kriegermfg.com/products/voltage-transformers/
   
   Do you think these are reliable? Or where else can I find something of decent quality? I am looking for something around 300-400W.
   Many thanks and best wishes from Canada Jens
  
   
  
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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: "Keep Alive" Circuit

2018-09-05 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  Back in the late 1970's I built a clock with 12 volt AC input power supply. I installed a small 12 volt rechargeable battery on the clock after the rectifier bridge and smoothing capacitors ( I used tantalum capacitors)  for backup of the clock IC.  I built a small circuit using a reed relay powered by the AC input set up so that when AC was lost the relay opened and turned off the clock display. Then I built the 1 CPS circuit with a MM5369 IC and a color burstt crystal at 3.579 MHz ( a large size crystal common in all color televisions at the time but still commonly available) .  The IC divides this down to 1 CPS. With a high quality air variable capacitor as the trimmer capacitor, I adjusted the clock against short wave radio receiving WWV and over a few years I was able to adjust the time accuracy to less than a second off per month  !  It just got to be too long a wait to adjust the time as it became more accurate.  The complete circuit is easily found using Google. 
  Phil 
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: gregebert 
   Date: September 5, 2018 at 5:02 PM
   
   
   
Lessons-learned for future clock designs..I've converged on using a RasPi + DS3231 for all current and future designs, so I never need to set the time for power-failure, daylight savings, etc.
   
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[neonixie-l] my first calculator

2018-05-23 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I remember buying my first calc. Made for Eatons dept. store in Toronto Canada.   4 functions 8 digits klixon-type keys ( metal disk flexes to make to pc board contact ).  With AC adapter it cost almost $180 ! I used it until the early 1980's for my hospital pharmacy job because the hospital was too cheap to buy us a new one.
  Phil
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: gregebert 
   Date: May 23, 2018 at 3:11 PM
   
   
   
Interesting. I remember our first household calculator, late 1975, was also VFD from a different manufacturer, but it also had a square-root key. I suspect there was a commonly-used calculator chip that was used in several brands. I think my parents paid about 40 USD at that time.

 


 Within a year, prices plummeted and features skyrocketed. I still have my APF scientific calculator, and that cost 10 USD and had all the trig/ln/exp/log functions. It outlasted a few others I bought later.

   
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[neonixie-l] re Comercial posts

2018-05-16 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I don't mind an occasional post - say once monthly at most seems fine to me.  Many of the newbies would like to be aware of newer devices and products.   How about a post that your site is updated with new ideas or products and a link that takes us there. The moderators could keep watch that any individual is not taking advantage of this should be fair to all.
  Best of luck Phil
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Manuel Azevedo 
   Date: May 16, 2018 at 9:41 AM
   
   
   
Hi guys,

 


 This discussion started in the Facebook page for Nixie clocks:


 


 
  Should commercial posts be banned from the forum?
 


 


 I'm asking the same question here - I know I'm new here and I've made some posts regarding my device in the past. I'm no pro, but still, I'm selling and making publicity for my device.


 


 So far I haven't received any negative reaction from the community. I try not to post regularly, but I believe some would be happy these posts don't exist at all.


 


 My questions to the group are:


 


 
  Should commercial posts be banned?
  If not banned, should a code of conduct exist?
 


 


 I'd like to hear from you all.


 


 Regards,


 


 Manuel Azevedo


 


 


 

   
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[neonixie-l] Opinions on this inverter transformer for prototyping NIMOs

2018-04-19 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  Turns ratio 260...   1 Volt AC in gives about 260 Volts AC out - without rectifyers etc.   Need to be very low on the AC in or you will get excessive HV out    states it is for devices using much higher voltage. 
  
   -- Original Message --From: John Rehwinkel Date: April 19, 2018 at 9:50 AM> Can on of my betters on the list advise on whether they see any issues with using this to test a NIMO tube using a low voltage DC input?It seems to me it should work. The main problems I'd watch out for are overdriving it (an arc in a winding will ruin it), and regulating the voltage. You may or may not want a doubler on the output.> Also, it doesn't come with a pinout, and I had heard that inverter transformer inputs are typically on a diagonal instead of one side. Can anyone confirm that this is standard, and suggest a way to figure out the pinout using a multimeter only (not sure if that is possible but I figured I'd ask).It's easy with a multimeter, just check for resistance. You should get low resistance on the primary (watch out for getting zapped on the secondary while doing this), and moderate resistance on the secondary.Regards,John-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group.To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/8C475F01-4A6C-49D5-8DE3-7C56D15E8184%40mac.com.For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
  
 




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[neonixie-l] another Nixie tester 26 In18 Tubes

2018-04-03 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I use a commercial product made for women's complexion, sold on shopping channel - I bought mine at a Goodwill store  called a Derma-wand  seems to generate adjustable (not sure voltage or current) which has a glass tip I hold up to the glass envelope of a nixie and causes several or all the digits to glow.    It generates a lot of ozone which is not good for skin or eyes or lungs but few seconds should do no harm.
  Phil  
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Jeff Aylesworth 
   Date: April 2, 2018 at 2:04 PM
   
   
   
Hi Terry, 
The guy did have a LOT of neon sign manufacturing materials and other equipment. He was definitely either some sort of professional or deep into electrical/electronic hobbies. I suppose they could have been castoffs for sure but the date codes and other markings match across the lot.

The lowest hanging fruit seems to be the plasma ball proximity test.

 Jeff

On Monday, April 2, 2018 at 10:58:09 AM UTC-7, Terry S wrote:

 
  Are they all the same date codes? Perhaps they are the fallout of a sorting effort.
  
   
  
  
   IN-18's at a garage sale? And a whole case! What are the odds?
  
  
   
  
  
   As others mentioned, there are numerous ways to test such tubes. A while back I bought a cheap handheld device for testing neon sign tubes. Works good for nixies too, although it does seem to have destroyed the decimal points on a couple of IN-14's. After that I never touch the pins directly any more, just the glass.
  
  
   
  
  
   Terry
   
   

On Monday, April 2, 2018 at 12:17:16 PM UTC-5, Jeff Aylesworth wrote:

 
  I don' know the history on them at all, I rescued them from a garage sale in my neighborhood. The pins do seem to have a little corrosion in some cases and in some cases they are not true and perfectly straight. I am going to try and track down a plasma globe to see if I can see any signs of life and go from there.
  
  Thanks for the replies!
  
  Jeff
  
  On Monday, April 2, 2018 at 9:41:58 AM UTC-7, Jeff Aylesworth wrote:
  
   
Hi,
Thanks for adding me to the group.

I picked up a case of IN18 tubes at a garage sale in my area. I assembled the Nixie Tester Kit as sold by Marcin Saj to test them, but can only get one of 26 to work. His support in trying to see if my tubes were good has been nothing short of amazing.

The tubes all appear to be new and unused and are pristine on the inside and in the original carton. Which I why I struggle with the fact that none of them seem work (save for 1).

I am looking for someone in the Seattle area that has an IN18 clock or device and more electrical experience than to see if the tubes are any good.

Thanks!
Jeff

   
  
 

   
  
 

   
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[neonixie-l] not available 'Omnixie' Smart Wifi Nixie Clock released

2018-03-17 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  Mouser page shows  0 in stock  expected delivery of first batch is middle of June
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Tomasz Kowalczyk 
   Date: March 17, 2018 at 3:31 AM
   
   
   
Thanks for confirmation.

 I was recently researching possiblities of making an ultra small PSU with <1W output (nixie watch project) and I'm currently stuck with CEEH54 and CJ5143 and I'm toying around with them.


 However, I've found another little gem to order and play with:


 https://www2.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TDK/ATB322515-0110?qs=ivTIEzcXi41rlQuCra1Ohg%3D%3D
 So it is possible to get much smaller transformers designed for step-up applications. I wonder how much power can be drawn from PSU built around so small transformer. This will probably require designing a LLC converter just to decrease losses in the transformer. With it I could lay two Z5900Ms side by side and hide the converter between the tubes!


 I think that for a full scale clock with 6 small tubes there would be a need of building two of PSUs working for three tubes each, but that would allow to go even thinner.


 There is also (mentioned in the datasheet) a 2,4mm height version, still significantly thinner than most transformers I've seen.


 W dniu czwartek, 15 marca 2018 14:48:12 UTC+1 użytkownik 严泽远 napisał:
 
  
   Yes you're right, same solution with NCH8200HV for power supply module, height of transformer is 5mm max, pcb board thickness is 1mm, this's the thickest part, check picture attached. Actually I have another choice for make it thinner with 4mm transformer, but it seem to be nosence compared to 5mm.
   
My first version is only designed for fly pins nixie tubes with tube PCB adapter, I never thought my last version will compatible with NL-5441 and NL-841 tubes, still 6mm base, the end of tube pins almost touch the bottom pcb board.

 





 在 2018年3月15日星期四 UTC+8下午2:42:03,Tomasz Kowalczyk写道:
 
  
   I love how thin this clocks base is. I'm wondering how the power supply is made - judging from dimensions of your NCH8200HV power supply, fitting that transformer isn't an option - or am I wrong? Or is it a boost converter on a flat inductor with voltage doublers?
   Anyway, this is the thinnest clock base I've ever seen. In fact, none comes even close - second thinnest was 20mm thick (it was fully wooden, though). It is really impressive.
   It reminds me of bonsai trees, where very low pots are chosen for aesthetic reasons - it helps exposing the tree itself. It works here, too - even the small tubes are not dwarfed by the base.
  
 

   
  
 

   
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[neonixie-l] visualizing the radiation from Radioactive clock

2018-03-17 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I have bad floaters in my right eye   related ??
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Paul Andrews 
   Date: March 16, 2018 at 4:35 PM
   
   
   
How's the eye?

On Friday, March 16, 2018 at 4:18:58 PM UTC-4, philthepill wrote:

 
  When I was a teen-ager in the 1960's I bought a radiation experimenters kit which had a small device which looked like a watch-makers eyepiece except it had a screen in the front which fluoresced under radiation. It was called a spinarthroscope. The kit included a small piece of uranium ore. In a dark room, you put the device on your eye and held the uranium up to the screen and could see green flashes caused by the radiation interacting with the screen at the front. 
  
   -- Original Message -- 
   From: HuggerMugger 
   Date: March 16, 2018 at 4:01 PM 

   
   

 
  I saw what the radium did to people in a documentary about the period of elements:
 
 
  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radium_jaw
 
 
  Radium is closely related to Calcium and hence the body absorbs radium and stores it where radium use to be stored – in the skeleton. and most often in the jaw bones.
 
 
   
  
 
 
  /Magnus
 
 
  
   
 

   
   

 From: gregebert


 Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 6:11 PM


 To: 
 neonixie-l


 Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: OT: Radioactive clock

   
  
  
    
   
  
 
 
  
   And just because it no longer glows, does NOT mean it's no longer radioactive. Radium half-lifes in 1600 years; the 'glow agents' deplete after a few years.
   
 

   
   
I dont know how dangerous these items are, though. Radium undergoes alpha particle decay, and those particles are easily stopped. Even a paper bag will block alpha particles. But if you were to ingest an alpha-particle emitter, that will be bad.
   
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   Virusfritt. www.avast.com
  
 

   
  
  
  
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[neonixie-l] visualizing the radiation from Radioactive clock

2018-03-16 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  When I was a teen-ager in the 1960's I bought a radiation experimenters kit which had a small device which looked like a watch-makers eyepiece except it had a screen in the front which fluoresced under radiation. It was called a spinarthroscope.  The kit included a small piece of uranium ore.  In a dark room, you put the device on your eye and held the uranium up to the screen and could see green flashes caused by the radiation interacting with the screen at the front.  
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: HuggerMugger 
   Date: March 16, 2018 at 4:01 PM
   
   
   

 
  I saw what the radium did to people in a documentary about the period of elements:
 
 
  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radium_jaw
 
 
  Radium is closely related to Calcium and hence the body absorbs radium and stores it where radium use to be stored – in the skeleton. and most often in the jaw bones.
 
 
   
 
 
  /Magnus
 
 
  
   
 
   
   

 From: 
 gregebert


 Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 6:11 PM


 To: 
 neonixie-l


 Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: OT: Radioactive clock

   
  
  
    
  
 
 
  
   And just because it no longer glows, does NOT mean it's no longer radioactive. Radium half-lifes in 1600 years; the 'glow agents' deplete after a few years.
   
 
   
   
I dont know how dangerous these items are, though. Radium undergoes alpha particle decay, and those particles are easily stopped. Even a paper bag will block alpha particles. But if you were to ingest an alpha-particle emitter, that will be bad.
   
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   Virusfritt. www.avast.com
  
 

   
  
   
  
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[neonixie-l] Radioactive clock

2018-03-16 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  Many of the workers who painted the watch hands etc died of radiation poisoning in the early 20th century.  Marie Curie who discovered radium also died of radiation poisoning.
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: "SWISSNIXIE - Jonathan F." 
   Date: March 16, 2018 at 1:12 PM
   
   
   
Nice to see other people with interest in radiation :)

The clocks are probably radioactive because of their paint on the watch hands. In the 1930's they used radium paint to make night glowing watch hands. Radium contains radioactive isotopes (Ra-226)

Before people got silly about radiation, radioactive material was used for quite a few consumer products like watch hands, vacuum tubes, uranium glass pottery, lantern mantles. Running around with a scintillation counter (more sensible geiger counter) on a vintage flew marked will usually bring up some items :) 



   
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[neonixie-l] How to mount IN-9 tubes

2018-02-20 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  Use a black backer board   ( you can spray paint some pc board with black spray paint ) then use black thread - I use black silk suture thread to support them. Almost invisible and very strong but with some give if needed.
  Phil
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: "SWISSNIXIE - Jonathan F." 
   Date: February 20, 2018 at 11:29 AM
   
   
   
I would possibly use a piece of rubber tube where you can place the tube in, just like a few kits place their colon tube

See https://www.nocrotec.com/shop/images/content/colon-02.jpg

Another possible solution would be to use a slotted-pc board and then glue in the whole tube base with kind of silicon glue (sticky but flexible).

Another version would be this:
https://threeneurons.files.wordpress.com/2015/02/ntherm01s.jpg



Am Montag, 19. Februar 2018 13:07:17 UTC+1 schrieb John Murphy:

 
  I'm building an audio spectrum analyzer using the MSGQ7 chip, an Arduino, and 14 IN-9 tubes (7 Left channel and 7 Right). I've got everything working on the bench, but now it's time to get things mounted for display! I'd like to have the tubes stand vertically next to each other. I'm looking for suggestions on how to securely mount these tubes. If possible, I would prefer to mount at the bottom only so that the top of the tubes are free and clear.
  
  
 

   
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[neonixie-l] My story Story Time: How you got to the nixie hobby?

2018-02-05 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
     My story as as follows
  
   

 When I was young I lived near Brunswick Ave and Bloor St in Toronto Canada.  There was a fried chicken place on the corner which closed and was replaced by a frozen yogurt place.   They had a sign made up using B7971 tubes which said " sorry, out of chicken"  in their window. That was the first time I ever saw a nixie tube.  Fast forward 15 years and I finished university and got the electronics bug and starting making digital clocks including the one next my bed still working after 40 years.  I got the nixie bug and started building clocks with them as well. I go to ham-fests all over looking for interesting stuff that I can use.  About 4 years ago I found a desk-top Sony calc which was nixie and works well.  It joined my already large collection of vintage desk-top calcs  including a 1960's era WANG Labs engineering one with nixie keyboard for input, electronics package in a small suitcase and printer which used spark erosion on aluminized paper.   I went back looking for that yogurt place but it and the sign are long gone.

   
  
      Phil
  
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[neonixie-l] doing it yourself mason jar numitrons

2018-01-24 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I agree about building and programming your own project. I went to a local "makers-fair"  where a bunch of young people buy various modules and plug them together.  Yes they get a working product but they have no clue how to manufacture any one of the modules they use. This is a charming start for young people but they never hold a soldering iron or design and make their own boards or look at component specs and buy their own components.    Just not the old school electronics I grew up with.
  mtcw  regards Phil  
  
   
   
   
   -- Original Message --
   From: Bill van Dijk 
   Date: January 23, 2018 at 12:46 PM
   
   
   
 
> I realize the Arduino makes an easy target, but why the hate?
 
Ah, I’ll go out on a limb (BTW, “hate” is probably a bit strong), but from my perspective it’s an old phart thing. The Arduino is so hyped up, it reminds me of Harley Davidson motorcycle owners. They seem to think theirs is the only one, the best, nearing cult status. On FleaBay they even advertise things like capacitors as “for Arduino” just to get the hits. Yes, I’m an old phart, and I still like to do things the hard way. To me, building a project is, or at least should be, more than plugging in shields and loading prepared libraries. I like to understand what I build, and put it all together myself. I still use assembly language for smaller projects. Since the nixie community is very much about old technology I assume there are probably a few more who feel that way.
 
But each to his / her own
 
Bill van Dijk
 
From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Dylan DistasioSent: Tuesday, January 23, 2018 12:28 PMTo: neonixie-l@googlegroups.comSubject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: mason jar numitrons
 

 I realize the Arduino makes an easy target, but why the hate?
 
   
  
   On Tue, Jan 23, 2018 at 12:13 PM, Mike Harrison  wrote:
   
very nice but pity about the Arduino.
   
  
 

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Re: [neonixie-l] IN-12A new or used?

2017-10-24 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  are the digit faces clean or marked. do they light up properly.   if they were cheap enough ( less than a dollar apiece - I got 25 from a Kijiji seller for $1 each Canadian with local pick up that were all new !) I wouldn't worry too  much about the sides.
  MTCW  Phil
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Ben Pye 
   Date: October 24, 2017 at 1:56 PM
   
   
   
I recently picked up some IN-12As to use in a future project off eBay, advertised as NOS. They are with a variety of date codes/OTK marks which was a little strange. Additionally some of them appear to be marked, one has a small amount of red paint, another, what appears to be some sort of glue. On a couple the printed markings are somewhat worn off. I have attached images of some of the questionable tubes. Do these look like they are actually used to you?

 


 Thanks,


 Ben.

   
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beware of shipping ! [neonixie-l] re: 6 - B7971 tubes

2017-10-13 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  Shipping is via E-Bay global shipping  and we have heard about their examination/destruction of nixie tubes with no recourse to the seller.
  For what it's worth. 
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Ulysses Balis 
   Date: October 12, 2017 at 4:51 PM
   
   
   
Speaking of B-7971's, on a whim, I just did a search on eBay for the rarer cousin of the B-7971, the B-8971. Amazingly, I found one.

 


 As I haven't bid on this type of tube in a while, I'm not sure what the going rate is these days, but $200 seems reasonable, given how rare they are.


 


 http://www.ebay.com/itm/BURROUGHS-B-8971-Nixie-Tube-Fine-Grid-Very-rare-/272879983792
 


 


 It looks like a used tube and as such, cathode poisoning/degassing would be a concern, especially since there are no photos depicting it in an energized state. To the seller's credit, he/she does have perfect feedback.


 


 


 Ulysses B.


 


 


 

   
   


 On Thu, Oct 12, 2017 at 4:23 PM, Jeff Walton <
 jwalton...@gmail.com> wrote:
 
 
  
   
I am not sure of the seller that Michail is referring to on ebay, but I can add my experience that this listing contains known bad tubes and the seller knows that some of us are on to him...
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-pc-HUGE-B-7971-B7971-NIXIE-TUBE-FOR-COOL-CLOCKS-/253196543763?hash=item3af3b0a713:g:otUAAOSwPGlZ3utx
 
BEWARE.
 

  
 

Jeff W.

 
  From: 'Michail Wilson' via neonixie-l [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2017 3:12 PMTo: neonixie-l@googlegroups.comSubject: RE: [neonixie-l] re: 6 - B7971 tubes
 


 
   
  Hello,
   
  I have tubes; however, I don’t think I would be in a good price range.
   
  So, just to set a price
  $130 each + shipping. Will take a video of units working and mark them as you wish prior to shipping if you like.
   
  There are cheaper units on ebay, so no need to tell me you can get them cheaper.
  Also, I can with 100% guarantee that a specific seller on ebay is currently selling bad units. 
  He screwed me for a bunch of bad units of which I am also willing to sell at less than his ebay price - heh.
   
  
   Michail Wilson
   206-920-6312
  
   
  
   
From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Jack BuechlerSent: Thursday, October 12, 2017 2:51 AMTo: neonixie-l@googlegroups.comSubject: [neonixie-l] re: 6 - B7971 tubes
   
  
   
  
   Does anyone want to sell me 6 B7971 tubes at a reasonable rate? I would li9ke to build one of the new NIxie clocks from Michael B. 
    
   You would be shipping to Washington DC not the UK. to make it easier for you - most collectors seem to be in the US.
    
    
    
    
   This reminds me of a precious painting - better for the tubes to be on display than in a vault somewhere collecting dust...
    
   let me know.
    
   many thanks
    
   Jack
   
 

   
  
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[neonixie-l] Hazzardous products and Global Shipping

2017-06-23 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I had an auction on E-Bay USA. They canceled my auction for a special low temperature thermometer because it contained mercury and thalium which they declared as hazardous and not shippable by any approved methods.   How did it get to me from England if it was not possible to ship it ? I live in Canada. They did not refund the listing price.   Ignorance and stupidity is widespread.
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Tomasz Kowalczyk 
   Date: June 23, 2017 at 1:51 AM
   
   
   

W dniu piątek, 23 czerwca 2017 04:37:23 UTC+2 użytkownik johnk napisał:

 
  
   err, I think the point is NOT TO use the Global Shipping by selecting another category, because they DO open [some/all] packages. See various stories circulating. They obviously find it easier when the description tips them off - like the guy who lost his amplifier, NOT just the valves in it.
  
  
    
   
  
  
   I bet they will stop handling anything with lead solder. [I had argument with local authority about disposal of colour TV CRT glass - it is lead glass. They had been screaming about the amount of lead being handled ! They treat it as if it is actually free lead or toxic free-salt/compound. Same with mercury. I don't know what lack-of science and chemistry is taught these days but it is totally pathetic! 
  
 


 


 Well, isn't anti-vaccines movement getting stronger nowadays? I think that if anti-vaccines or flat-earth are things in todays world, we need no explanation why someone CAN'T understand the concept of mercury being trapped inside a tube (which, if they handle the package as supposed, should never break), and even if it comes outside, it is many times smaller amount than in a thermometer - I bet you'd need to break an original box of 25 IN-18 tubes to get this amount of mercury!


  
 


 
  
   When we live in an "advanced" culture it behoves us to know an amount of stuff. It can't be totally a Nanny State. Old episode of the Simpsons last night where they made a joke in a speech about "get a half-life" makes me ponder whether it just went straight over the heads of the majority of viewers. People tend to vote and politicians get to decide about waste dumps etc. How can "we" get the right answers when the voters are clueless about the issues. The Greenies and 'enlightened' pollies here in Oz have done a lot of damage over the years through being rather ignorant - just enough knowledge to be dangerous. Doesn't matter how good the science advisers are - the pollies get to set the terms of reference and the scope. 
  
  
   Reason for the above... a lead-in to this. That tube guy said he had been checking out the ebay setup with ebay guys. 
  
  
   How about someone who is a stake holder trying to chat with the global shipping ninnies?
  
 


 


 I think the problem lies in education, and to be more specific - lack of ability to differ real knowledge from bullshit. The internet, while being a wonderful tool for work and learning (I was raised in the internet era and seriously, I can't understand how you were supposed to educate yourself at home without the internet!), is also a great place for stupid people and trolls. The biggest issue in searching for information is the ability to see what is a true scientific answer and what is made up by someone. I think that many people believe the latter one because the information is easier to digest than a full scientific report. It will sound logical, but many people won't see a big flaw in the logic of the non-scientist.


 

   
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[neonixie-l] receiving counrty pays the cost of postal transport

2017-05-16 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  Wa back in the late 1800's when worldwide postal service began this was the problem - who pays the receiving country  when I send a letter to a person in another country ( and their postal system).   So most of the countries of the world got together and signed the declaration of the Universal Postal Union.   It said the sending country pays the cost of delivering mail to a foreign country then the receiving country delivers the foreign mail without any cost to the sender. You do it for our country and we do it for yours.  It worked well when postal volumes between countries was small but now the world buys millions of items from China daily with delivery via postal mail but very few Chinese buy anything from the rest of the world. So the receiving countries are spending millions delivering foreign packages and the tax-payer is on the hook.
  We now subsidize shipping from China !    Welcome to the world of being taken to the cleaners. 
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Instrument Resources of America 
   Date: May 15, 2017 at 10:01 PM
   
   
   Speaking of Chinese, I ordered an attachment for my Dremel tool from China about three weeks ago. It arrived yesterday in the U.S. Mail, as items from China always do. TOTAL cost for the ITEM and the S & H $.99 (ninety nine cents). Can anyone here tell how that is done?? Especially since it involves the U.S. Postal Service??? Thanks Ira.
   
   
On 5/15/2017 6:43 PM, 'threeneurons' via neonixie-l wrote:

   
   

 I thought eBay's Global Shipping Program (GSP) was a bad idea, from the get-go ! Just another reason not to use it.
 
  
 
 
  When they introduced it, they automatically enabled it, in your settings. You had to go into your account settings, and turn it off. In general, its a rip-off ! Just another eBay "profit center". Its bad enough that shipping things to outside the US, starts at ~$13.50, for a minimal weight parcel (and upto 8 oz), but if I remember, the fees the GSP charges, are way above that !
 
 
  
 
 
  Before 2012, you could ship things international, for ~$5. Before 2005, the postal service still had "surface mail", which meant they waited until a shipping container was filled up, before sending your parcel off, on a slow boat to oblivion. Cost was cheap, though it may take up to 3 months to get to your destination. Chinese still do the same thing, though it probably takes well less than a week to fill up one of their containers.
 
 
  
 
 
  Its best to pack the parcel yourself. Have you ever seen how most parcels arrive from Amazon, Granger, or McMaster ? The item(s) are usually tossed into the box, then those inflatable bags are tossed in on top of it. Padding is most often just the thickness of the cardboard box. That's fine for screws, and books, and even my kits. But not something you want to see when shipping a CRT !
 
 
  
 
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[neonixie-l] bleeding off HV Is it bad to turn neon light on and off by wall outlet?

2017-05-01 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I always build high voltage devices with a double pole double throw switch so that one pole controls power while the other pole puts a 10 K resistor across the HV supply to bleed it off  when device is turned off.  Never been buzzed this way.
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: 'Terry S' via neonixie-l 
   Date: April 30, 2017 at 1:03 PM
   
   
   
Finally had an opportunity to test this -- and I can confirm that on at least a couple of my larger neon signs, the tubes shut off differently using the pull chain switch than they do using the line cord. 

I have one large Boulevard Brewing sign, for example, that shuts off slowly, with the long border tube being the last to de-energize, in four distinct segments, when unplugged. By contrast, the entire sign shuts off immediately when I use the switch.

So I can only conclude that the power supply must be bled down quickly when the switch is toggled.

Terry

On Tuesday, April 25, 2017 at 11:09:55 AM UTC-5, Terry S wrote:

 
  It's possible that the power supply has circuitry that quickly discharges the high voltage (maybe as simple as a bleeder resistor inserted by the switch) when shut down by the switch. In the case of unplugging or the wifi switch,this circuitry would not be activated, resulting in the fade out in the video.
  
   
  
  
   I have beer neons that exhibit the same behavior when I unplug them -- never tried to compare that to the pull-chain off sequence. But now you have me intrigued, so I will try that this evening.
  
  
   
  
  
   I really can't envision a scenario where this would be harmful to the supply or the sign. I've been turning my neons on & off by wall switch, power strip switch, or unplugging them for years. I have not had a failure on any of my signs (over 20 of them) -- although I've bought many with already failed supplies. Cheap because of that.
  
  
   
  
  
   Terry
  
  
   
   On Monday, April 24, 2017 at 9:20:46 PM UTC-5, Dman777 wrote:
   

 I just got a new Xbox neon light sign. I also bought a wifi smart outlet so I can turn it off with my Google Home and Echo.
 
  
 
 
  I noticed that when I turn it off by the smart outlet, the neon sign turns off differently. The letters have a unique pattern when they turn off. This is not the same behavior as when I turn it off by the sign's native switch...then all the letters go off at once.
 
 
  
 
 
  Is it bad for the neon sign or hard on the circuitry to be turning it on and off by the wall smart outlet switch instead of the signs normal on and off switch?
 
 
  
 
 
  Here is a 
  video of sign being turned off by outlet 
 

   
  
 

   
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[neonixie-l] Manufacturing affordable large, new nixie tubes

2017-04-19 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  At about $25  I would buy at least 12 to start.  A serial factory built ISO qualified product would get lots of interest just to compete with the Russian suppliers who obviously have vast stores of ( now overpriced) older by the day nixies.
  My 2 cents worth
  Phil B
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: barefoot1 
   Date: April 19, 2017 at 9:00 AM
   
   
   

I also agree with Terry S. 

 Dalibor is making excellent Nixie tubes and I think his quality is excellent bar none. Watching Dalibor's video of the complete manufacturing process is a thing of beauty.


 If you can compete with Dalibor give it a run it would be an interesting Nixie to see.


 I wish you the best of luck in your endeavour. 
 On Wednesday, April 19, 2017 at 8:45:46 AM UTC-4, barefoot1 wrote:
 
  
   
   On Wednesday, April 19, 2017 at 8:26:32 AM UTC-4, Terry S wrote:
   

 Dalibor is already making very high quality tubes, and it took him years to perfect his process. I'm skeptical of your claim of a sub $25 price. But if you can produce them, you will surely find a ready market.
 
 On Wednesday, April 19, 2017 at 4:52:06 AM UTC-5, Aiden Koh wrote:
 
  
   I'm a product engineer taking on a new project.
   
   With current manufacturing methods, I'm able to manufacture In-18/Z568M inspired nixie tubes, at a fraction of their market costs (sub 25 USD/pc). I don't compromise on quality. hence, it will be built with parts mostly sourced from the US, and have the quality management system ISO-certified.
   
   
   However, due to overhead costs, such a price is only available if the minimum demand for said tubes is reached. Hence I can only commence with the project when I know that there is enough interest.
   
   
   What are your thoughts? Would it interest you if such tubes exist? show your support, and large, affordable nixie tubes may finally be within our grasp!
   
  
 

   
  
 
 On Wednesday, April 19, 2017 at 8:45:46 AM UTC-4, barefoot1 wrote:
 
  
   
   On Wednesday, April 19, 2017 at 8:26:32 AM UTC-4, Terry S wrote:
   

 Dalibor is already making very high quality tubes, and it took him years to perfect his process. I'm skeptical of your claim of a sub $25 price. But if you can produce them, you will surely find a ready market.
 
 On Wednesday, April 19, 2017 at 4:52:06 AM UTC-5, Aiden Koh wrote:
 
  
   I'm a product engineer taking on a new project.
   
   With current manufacturing methods, I'm able to manufacture In-18/Z568M inspired nixie tubes, at a fraction of their market costs (sub 25 USD/pc). I don't compromise on quality. hence, it will be built with parts mostly sourced from the US, and have the quality management system ISO-certified.
   
   
   However, due to overhead costs, such a price is only available if the minimum demand for said tubes is reached. Hence I can only commence with the project when I know that there is enough interest.
   
   
   What are your thoughts? Would it interest you if such tubes exist? show your support, and large, affordable nixie tubes may finally be within our grasp!
   
  
 

   
  
 

   
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[neonixie-l] checking for radiation Radioactive Nixies - Study

2017-03-14 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  Electronic Goldmine has lots of Geiger Counter kits and G-M tubes for sale,  Join their e-mail list and you get notification of new products and sales - at least monthly you will find a deal on radiation detecting kits or parts.
  I have no relation to the company just a regular user.
  Phil
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Dekatron42 
   Date: March 14, 2017 at 9:14 AM
   
   
   
So how should I do to properly test all old instruments and tubes that I buy to check that they are safe, free from harmful radiation, is there any reliable equipment that don't cost an arm and a leg that I can use at home?

 


 I'm not particularly afraid but if there is an easy way to check then it might be a good idea.
 
 
  
 
 
  /Martin
 

   
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[neonixie-l] not really a numitron NumiQueen IV-13 clock review

2017-02-14 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  these are light-pipe grain of wheat lamp type displays no truly Numitrons
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Mike Mitchell 
   Date: February 14, 2017 at 8:02 AM
   
   
   

  
 


 
  
   
  
 


 


 I recently came across some numitrons used in aircraft displays. They are .3" digit in molded back plastic.


 Two small screws hold them together, so I took one apart. One half is light pipes for the segments, the other is a socket for seven grain-of-wheat bulbs. Each bulb is 5v 20ma.


 The back has eight color-coded wires, one common (black), the rest go to the segment bulbs.


 I haven't figured out what I want to do with them yet.

   
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[neonixie-l] my version of nixie tube testing device...

2017-01-23 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  My supply only generates about 320 volts dc, it uses a miniature one turn 100 Kohm variable resistor for current limiting and I put 2 leads with 0.1mm post sockets at the ends to push onto tube leads. Uses as I said either 1 1/2 volt or 3 volts as 1 or two AA or AAA batteries (comes in two versions). Can you guess?  - you may find it at your local thrift store or at a camera show - I buy the whole unit for $1 then take it apart for the high voltage generator.  The "guts"  are also available from some electronics online sources such as Electronic Goldmine. If you have a small plastic box - either a fancy Hammond box or something from the dollar store it is easy to put together.
  (It's a single use disposable camera with neon charge indicator !)
  Phil
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Paul Andrews 
   Date: January 23, 2017 at 2:47 PM
   
   
   
Hi Phil,

 


 Is your tester anything like 
 this one? I would love to make one, though that isn't what I was asking about!


 


 - Paul
 
 On Saturday, January 21, 2017 at 10:12:25 AM UTC-5, Paul Andrews wrote:
 
  
   Hi,
   

   
   
I received a shipment of tubes (Z5900M) that I want to fire up (becasue, you know, I want to see them glow!). I have a cold cathode tube power supply. Could I use that? DO I need to add a resistor to the anode? Should I get me a power supply of some sort instead? If so what?
   
   

   
   
Very naive when it comes to electronics, but not a complete newb.
   
   

   
   
Thanks - Paul
   
  
 

   
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Re: [neonixie-l] Tube testing?

2017-01-21 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  cold cathode tube power supply  ie for fluorescent cold cathode tubes puts out close to 1000 volts  of pulsed current. I would not try it.  I have an easy way of making portable 1.5-3 volt battery powered handheld nixie tester which I have used for years but the group thought it was silly.  Only problem is that it uses a module hard to find now.   My message might still be on the archives.
  Phil B
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Paul Andrews 
   Date: January 21, 2017 at 10:12 AM
   
   
   
Hi,

 


 I received a shipment of tubes (Z5900M) that I want to fire up (becasue, you know, I want to see them glow!). I have a cold cathode tube power supply. Could I use that? DO I need to add a resistor to the anode? Should I get me a power supply of some sort instead? If so what?


 


 Very naive when it comes to electronics, but not a complete newb.


 


 Thanks - Paul

   
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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Troubleshooting a mux'd clock

2016-11-16 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I have a nixie tester that I bought at a Goodwill store. There  are several shopping channel type sites which sell something called a derma-wand. It is AC powered and has a glass tip filled with neon which women use on their faces to improve their complexion.  It generates high frequency high voltage at a fairly low current.  I have safely used it on the terminals end of a nixie to ionize all the gas inside which glows orange everywhere and instantly tells if the tube is outgassed. I paid about $8 for it and use it every time I get a new nixie. It comes in a carrying pouch and I have never destroyed a nixie using it.  You should keep an eye out for one. 
  If your wife has one you should take it away from her and never allow her to use it again. It generates ozone which can destroy delicate facial skin and it should be banned from being advertised this way.
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Paolo Cravero 
   Date: November 16, 2016 at 6:45 AM
   
   
   

 Hello.
 
Far from being an expert and I never troubleshoot these circuits. Yet.


 
  
  
   

 
  Could I really have 2 bad tubes, that just happen to share a driver? Would all the digits fail?
  
  I'm tempted to apply my neon sign tester to the tubes to see if they ionize, but I'm a bit fearful about damaging the clock.
  
 

   
   
  
  
   So you have not tested the tubes if they're outgassed. Couldn't it be that they need a higher voltage to ionize? It was the case with a B5094 (symbol Nixie) that doesn't spring to life unless it sees to 210V, but it glows at the HVAC test.
   
   
  
  
   If you disconnect the anode resistor and the whole board is left "floating" there should not be induced current and/or a closed circuit to be damaged. Unless your tester is very powerful: with mine I have to touch the glass to get the glow.
   
  
  
   
  
  
   What is less risky? Higher voltage or the wireless neon sign tester?
   
  
  
   
  
  
   Paolo
   
   
  
  
   
  
 

   
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Re: [neonixie-l] First nixie clock

2016-09-27 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I think we should crown you as the new king of point-to-point wiring.  The clock looks great 
  regards Phil 
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: newxito 
   Date: September 26, 2016 at 5:18 PM
   
   
   
Hi, I’m new in the forum. I’ve finally managed to build my first nixie clock. It’s a 6-digit clock with 4 x Z5660M and 2 x IN-8 nixies.
I’ve decided to build the clock with direct drive so I’ve used 8 x 74HC595 and 64 x MPSA42 transistors.
The controller is a Atmega 328P, the 170V psu was made with a MC34063, coil, transistor and mosfet. The psu seems to work fine, no audible noise and the components remain cool.
I had no idea how to shut down the 170V so I’ve used a relay to cut the 12V supply to the 170V psu. I’m sure there must be a better way to do this.
Finally, I’ve added a GPS time sync, a motion sensor and a mp3 module, the clock plays a sound every hour.
I was surprised how easy it was to write the software. In the latest release I’ve implemented a simple cathode poisoning prevention function (just heard about this problem). For the next release I have planned to use the pps signal for a more accurate GPS time synchronization.
I know, the whole thing looks like a nightmare... but it works :-)
Regards
   
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[neonixie-l] I agree with the Rant - eBay Sucks ! Shipping Calculator

2016-09-19 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I sold some cables recently and it clearly stated shipping to USA lower 48 states was $20.  The buyer showed me the invoice he got from eBay and it indicated "shipping free".  The buyer refused to pay shipping and wanted to cancel the sale. I bit the cost and lost money on the transaction.    I hate their shipping calculator. The system should just wait for an invoice from seller who can properly figure postage to wherever the buyer is.
  Also postage in Canada and USA is wa too expensive compared to overseas    - shipping from China costs seller practically nothing (price + shipping = $0.99  - how do they do that?  simple, the buyers country subsidized the shipping. Thanks all you citizens for supporting China Post and Hong Kong Post etc.
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: 'threeneurons' via neonixie-l 
   Date: September 19, 2016 at 6:34 PM
   
   
   
I've been having a little (losing) battle with eBay lately, on about international shipping. I've been shorted on 4 transactions, in the last month. Their customer service reps are totally ignorant of their own policies. In the modern age, that, sadly, seems to be the norm. I've made 4 calls. On the middle two, the reps, looked at the transactions, and noted the difference, between what the charged, and my actual costs. They acted as if they would reimburse me, my shortfall. Today, I noticed a buyer, in Japan ordered two supply kits, but was only charged $6.97. The post office will charge me $13.50. The first flunky, today, told me that I setup my shipping parameters incorrectly. Which is an off-the-cuff blame the seller excuse. I eventually managed to get to his supervisor. He told me two very important things, none of the past calls provided: (1) No reimbursements period. eBay Policy. (2) The shipping cost was not based on my shipping parameters, but the minimum US Postal Service price, for an ENVELOPE, containing tangible merchandise (not just paperwork).

 


 I cancelled the transaction. Changed my setting to "no international shipping", on that one item. The lower flunky, told me international buyers, can still put the item in their shopping cart, but need to contact me, in order to pay for it. So then, I can properly invoice them. His supervisor told me, to click "off" combined shipping, again, allowing me to invoice the buyer, once they see the "sticker shock" shipping charge.


 


 I ONLY SHIP IN BOXES --- PERIOD !!!


 


 Maybe, some replacement parts, in an envelope, but never a KIT.


 


 From the US it cost me: $9.50 minimum, to ship to Canada.


 It cost either: $13.25/$13.50/$13.75 minimum, to ship to any other country (outside the US - I have to include this because too many Americans, are a little thick). Don't even ask about: UPS, FedEx, or DHL. All way higher !


 


 Also, if any of you know a lawyer, that's in the "class action" business, put in your 2 cents. eBay really should have an option of making the seller, the final arbiter, of setting the price, before the buyer can pay.


 


 I have, and always will, refund excessive shipping charges paid.

   
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[neonixie-l] Re: chep 5v supplies

2016-06-28 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  Why not use a USB-output wall wart made for charging phones and other devices. You can find them at Goodwill, SallyAnnes and many second hand stores for  $1-3. They will be UL, CSA and often universal 110-220v 50/60 hz AC input and 5V output up to 2000mA. Just make slot thru-holes on your board to solder the ac-pins  and output via flying leads which are double insulated. I did this for a project which needed 5V to power a voltmeter module. Way cheaper than designing making your own though they take up some space on your board. You can also just attach the wall wart to the bottom of your case with zip-ties and solder leads to the AC input (I always double insulate the terminals with heat shrink for safety) to save the space on your board.
  Thanks Phil B
  
   -- Original Message --From: John Rehwinkel Date: June 26, 2016 at 12:46 AM> I am making a nixie clock from scratch, I am planning to use this module, so I don´t need any bulky tranformer:> > http://smart-prototyping.com/Ultra-compact-power-module-HLK-PM01.html> > anybody has experience with this power supply ?While I don't have experience with that one in particular, they are handy for one-part solutions. Note that it is bulkier than many transformers, and is only good for 600mA (not ideal if you're planning on using 7441 style drivers). You'll also need a source of high voltage for the nixies.- Cheers,John-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group.To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/8E932930-245D-46B0-9425-6173034F58CB%40mac.com.For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
  
 




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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: FS: IV-4, IV-12, IV-17, IV-26

2016-05-28 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I would like to buy 6 new IN-14  cost + shipping to Ontario, Canada ??
  Thanks Phil
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Yuriy Ovchinnikov 
   Date: May 28, 2016 at 10:13 AM
   
   
   
Actual list:

 Chip K155ID1 – 60 pcs. for $1
 IV-1 – 39 pcs., IV-3A – 142 pcs.,
 IV-4 – 24 pcs. for $2, IV-4 used – 111 pcs. for $1, IV-6 – 126 pcs., IV-6 used – 19 pcs., IV-8 – 191 pcs.,
 IV-11 – 120 pcs., IV-11 used – 4 pcs., IV-12 – 221 pcs.,
 IV-17 – 155 pcs. for $1.5, IV-20 – 2 pcs.,
 IV-22 – 87 pcs., IV-26 – 700 pcs. for $2, IV-28А – 1 pcs., IVL-1-7/5 – 2 pcs.,
 IVL-2-7/5 – 24 pcs.,
 IVLShU-1-11/2 – 39 pcs.,
 IN-2 – 381 pcs. for $1.8, IN-3 – 199 pcs.,
 IN-4 – 4 pcs. for $2, IN-8 – 2 pcs. for $5, IN-9 used – 11 pcs. for $3,
 IN-12A – 60 pcs. for $2,
 IN-12B – 130 pcs. for $2,
 IN-13 – 3 pcs. for $3, IN-14 – 32 pcs. for $5,
 IN-14 used – 100 pcs. for $2.5,
 IN-15А – 19 pcs. for $1, IN-15B – 14 pcs. for $1,
 IN-17 – 51 pcs. for $3,
 IN-19A used – 1 pc.,
 IN-19B used – 1 pc.,
 IN-19V – 2 pcs. for $2
 
 четверг, 10 сентября 2015 г., 7:39:43 UTC+3 пользователь Yuriy Ovchinnikov написал:
 
  
   FS:
   
IV-4 - 11 pcs.,
   
   
IV-12 - 73 pcs.,
   
   
IV-17 - 13 pcs.,
   
   
IV-26 - more 800 pcs.

   
   
Anyone want?
   
  
 

   
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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Talk about shipping issues to Europe!!!

2016-05-27 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  My sad experience shipping to France from Canada.  Fellow bought my Sony lap-top on eBay  but would only pay for surface mail shipping ( I warned him it could take 6 weeks, he wanted cheapest shipping). About 2 weeks later he launched a dispute with PayPal that he never got the item. PayPal froze my account until they could "investigated"  Three days later they returned the money to the buyer. When I went to the Canada post office to claim for the loss, they said I had to wait 2 months and then make a claim. I made a claim 2 months later, Canada Post sent an inquirey to France Post.  France Post sent proof of delivery - buyers signature.   I contacted the buyer who replied in French not to bother him and claimed what he got was different from what I sold him.  Lesson learned, PayPal would not do anything as "they did not have my money !"   Now when I sell something with payment via PayPal I download the money to my bank before I ship product.   
  
   -- Original Message --From: taylorjpt Date: May 27, 2016 at 10:41 AMThe USPS tracking you display is only the customs acceptance and will NEVER go beyond that... USPS tracking only works in the US and Canada. More supprisingly, your german customer admitted to receiving the package!!! 0.00% of my experiences in this regard resulted in a refunded order being admitted to having been received.-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group.To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/f6a7938a-c1ac-43ea-be58-0716e9311f7c%40googlegroups.com.For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
  
 




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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: FS: IV-4, IV-12, IV-17, IV-26

2016-05-15 Thread alb.001 alb.001

 
  I am interested in the IN-14    nixies (6-8 pieces)    are they new old stock or used?
  Thanks Phil
  
   -- Original Message --
   From: Yuriy Ovchinnikov 
   Date: May 14, 2016 at 3:49 PM
   
   
   
Actual list:

 Chip K155ID1 – 60 pcs. for $1
 IV-1 – 39 pcs., IV-3A – 142 pcs.,
 IV-4 – 24 pcs., IV-4 used – 111 pcs., IV-6 – 126 pcs., IV-6 used – 19 pcs., IV-8 – 191 pcs.,
 IV-11 – 120 pcs., IV-11 used – 4 pcs., IV-12 – 221 pcs.,
 IV-17 – 167 pcs., IV-20 – 2 pcs.,
 IV-22 – 87 pcs., IV-26 – 800 pcs. for $2, IV-28А – 1 pcs., IVL-1-7/5 – 2 pcs.,
 IVL-2-7/5 – 24 pcs.,
 IVLShU-1-11/2 – 39 pcs.,
 IN-2 – 381 pcs. for $1.8, IN-3 – 199 pcs.,
 IN-4 – 4 pcs. for $2, IN-7 – 32 pcs. for $1,
 IN-8 – 2 pcs. for $5, IN-9 used – 11 pcs. for $3,
 IN-12A – 60 pcs. for $2,
 IN-12B – 129 pcs. for $2,
 IN-13 – 3 pcs. for $3, IN-14 – 32 pcs. for $5,
 IN-14 used – 100 pcs. for $2.5,
 IN-15А – 19 pcs. for $1, IN-15B – 15 pcs. for $1,
 IN-17 – 51 pcs. for $3,
 IN-19
 А
  – 1 pc. for $2, IN-19B – 1 pc. for $2, IN-19V – 7 pcs. for $2
 
 четверг, 10 сентября 2015 г., 7:39:43 UTC+3 пользователь Yuriy Ovchinnikov написал:
 
  
   FS:
   
IV-4 - 11 pcs.,
   
   
IV-12 - 73 pcs.,
   
   
IV-17 - 13 pcs.,
   
   
IV-26 - more 800 pcs.

   
   
Anyone want?
   
  
 

   
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