Re: Which lense to take?

[Stan Halpin]

Depends on if you are going to be mostly out in the country or mostly in
narrow city streets. Assuming country, I would go with the 24, 50, 100, and
a 1.4 or 1.7 extender. Assuming city, I would go 24, 35, 50, 85, and a 2x
for the occasional long shot. Part of my reasoning is that I seldom use a
macro except out in the "wilds", and like the 85 so much that I would opt
for that always if I thought that I probably would not need the macro.

I might carry the 28-70, but would probably leave it at home in the
"to-be-sold-on-eBay-someday-real-soon-now box".

Enjoy the trip!

Stan

> From: "Paul Jones" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 13:33:00 +1100
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Which lense to take?
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Mid way through january i'm going on a road trip for two weeks or so. I've
> been having thoughts for a while on what gear to take. I didn't want to take
> all my gear incase the car was broken into or something similar. I'll be
> shooting some landscapes and any other stuff that pops up.
> 
> I plan on taking the MZ-S and LX as bodies, my main problem is what lenses
> to take.
> 
> The primes i have to choose from are:
> 24/2, 35/2.8, 50/1.4, 85/1.8, 100/2.8 Macro
> Zooms to choose from are:
> FA28-70/4 and F70-210
> 
> At the moment i'm leaning towards taking the 24/2, 50/1.4 and both zooms.
> Even when i take all this i'll probaly only use half of it.
> 
> I'll also be carrying an Olympus MJUII.
> 
> Any comments appreciated.
> 
> Paul Jones
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RE: My impressions of the MIR 20mm f3.5 M42 lens

[J. C. O'Connell]

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Paul F. Stregevsky
> Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 8:58 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: My impressions of the MIR 20mm f3.5 M42 lens
> 
> 
> Frantisek Vlcek <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> Paul,
> would you please care to comment or compare the Mir 2.5/20 with
> CZJ 2.8/20 ? I own the CZJ and am really curious how the Mir
> compares to it.
> 
> 
Dont forget the Mamiya Sekor 21mm F4 in screwmount. Great lens.
Very sharp, contrasty and little distortion. Last one I saw on
ebay went for $200.
JCO
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Re: MZ-S: a couple of tips

[Rob Studdert]

On 2 Jan 2002 at 17:09, Michael Perham wrote:

> Actually it's neither IR nor a radio signal that communicates between 
> the MZ-S body and the remote AF360 flash.  It is the built-in flash that 
> communicates this.  The following directly from the manual; page 37.

Wow, thanks, maybe it's time I got a manual.

On 2 Jan 2002 at 17:37, Bruce Dayton wrote:

> I have 3 AF360FGZ's.  I can place one or more behind the camera body
> and they still fire without being about to *see* the popup flash.  I
> have read that section many times, but am not sure to it's
> explanation.  I'll do some more experimenting and report back.

Hi Bruce,

I don't know if you have ever used one of those Wein slave triggers but those 
things are so sensitive they can practically be in another room and with just a 
little light leak form the main flash trigger the remote.

Cheers,
Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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Re: Digital Printing: Bigger is Better

[Rob Studdert]

On 2 Jan 2002 at 21:27, Paul Stenquist wrote:


So I figured I'd go all the way,
> and I scanned a nice, sharp 6x7 transparency at 4000 ppi. This yielded a
> 255 megabyte file, which translates to an 11.1 x 14.4 picture at 743
> ppi. I then printed that file at 1440 dpi on my Epson 1200 (Just as I
> did for the other files.). It is noticeably better than the 440 ppi 11 x
> 14 print. Extremely sharp and photographic. Of course the 255 meg file
> is a bear to work with, but it may well be worth the effort.

This is interesting Paul, obviously the printer driver interprets the source 
file, the extra source data isn't squeezed into smaller dots, so I surmise that 
there must be a point of nil return and an optimum source file size for the 
given driver. I wonder where the difference originates from because I can't 
reconcile that it is simply due to the bigger file size above a certain point?

Cheers,
Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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Re: lens value: a workable definition (dollar per photograph)?

[Bgpentax]

  Paul...
You're making a pretty solid argument for a high-end zoom such as
  Sigma's  70-300 f 4  IF APO  ( B&H $ 800.00) which has impressive
  sharpness and color fidelity from 70 to about 200mmnot as "pure"
  as all those primes but hey  price per frame is pocket change
  Bob
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Which lense to take?

[Paul Jones]

Hi,

Mid way through january i'm going on a road trip for two weeks or so. I've
been having thoughts for a while on what gear to take. I didn't want to take
all my gear incase the car was broken into or something similar. I'll be
shooting some landscapes and any other stuff that pops up.

I plan on taking the MZ-S and LX as bodies, my main problem is what lenses
to take.

The primes i have to choose from are:
24/2, 35/2.8, 50/1.4, 85/1.8, 100/2.8 Macro
Zooms to choose from are:
FA28-70/4 and F70-210

At the moment i'm leaning towards taking the 24/2, 50/1.4 and both zooms.
Even when i take all this i'll probaly only use half of it.

I'll also be carrying an Olympus MJUII.

Any comments appreciated.

Paul Jones
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Digital Printing: Bigger is Better

[Paul Stenquist]

I've been experimenting with digital printing techniques and 6x7
negatives. I always scanned my 35mm negs at 4000 ppi, which yields a 7
x10 with about 550 ppi or an 11 x14 in the neighborhood of 340 ppi. The
files were about 55 meg. (These numbers aren't exact, but they're
ballpark.) The print I submitted to the PDML challenge was a 7 x 10
generated from a file of more than 550 ppi. When I first scanned 6x7
negs, I ran them through at about 2000 ppi, yielding a file of about 100
meg and a moderate increase in ppi as compared to the 35 mm files. I
believe I got around 440 ppi on am 11 x14. These prints were noticeably
better than those of a 340 ppi file. So I figured I'd go all the way,
and I scanned a nice, sharp 6x7 transparency at 4000 ppi. This yielded a
255 megabyte file, which translates to an 11.1 x 14.4 picture at 743
ppi. I then printed that file at 1440 dpi on my Epson 1200 (Just as I
did for the other files.). It is noticeably better than the 440 ppi 11 x
14 print. Extremely sharp and photographic. Of course the 255 meg file
is a bear to work with, but it may well be worth the effort.
Paul Stenquist
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Re: LX located

[Collin Brendemuehl]

Congratulations.
I wanted it, but couldn't justify it.  :(
Glad to help.

Collin

>From: "Geoff Moes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: LX located
>
>Thanks!  Just snagged the 300. I've been looking for the A*300 for a
>while.  It was $375 in case w/caps for an 8+, seems like a very
>reasonable price.  We'll see when I get it, I bought an MX there a
>while ago but it was broken. They were great about taking back and
>reimbursing me though.  I think they might have done themselves a
>disservice by not listing it as the Greenstar on their website,
>hopefully that is the reason for the low price.
>
>Geoff


*
I know what I'm doing."
  Pickard, "Star Trek: First Contact"
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Re: [Fwd: Re: Question for seller -- Item #1316793311]

[Stan Halpin]

Of course you need it! That deep seated wanting is but a sign of unconscious
recognition of fundamental drives which must be satisfied if your karma is
to remain in balance! Or whatever. However, you may also want to consider
this other ebay item, or something like it . . .
 

Stan

> From: Joseph Tainter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 16:18:12 -0700
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [Fwd: Re: Question for seller -- Item #1316793311]
> 
> This seems to match some other posts. I keep telling myself "I don't
> need it and don't have the money right now." But I've wanted one of
> these since I was a kid.
> 
> Joe
> 
>  Original Message 
> Subject: Re: Question for seller -- Item #1316793311
> Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 18:03:02 -0500
> From: Donna McArthur <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> Hi Joe,
> I'll see if I can make this a little more clear. If you look at the
> second picture, which shows the back end of the tube, work your way up
> from the protective cap until you come to a knurled ring.  It has two
> screws on either side of it.  This is where the mounting adapter
> separates from the tube.  The adapter has a four-eared bayonette type
> mount that fits into the knurled ring.  This ring is then turned like a
> breech mount to secure the adapter tightly to the tube (the adapter
> mounts very similar to a Canon FD mount lens).  Pentax designed this
> lens
> in this manner and provided adapters for either screw mount or k mount.
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Donna 
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Re: Showpiece Pentax LX w/FA-1 Finder--Gooeyduck!

[Rob Studdert]

On 2 Jan 2002 at 20:30, frank theriault wrote:

> I guess what bothers me is that many of these are big camera stores, looking
> like they're trying to sell off old stock, third party lenses, other off-brand
> stock, or used merchandise that they can't move.  Their prices or reserves look
> like they're about what they would have had the items listed for in their store
> - certainly more than I'd pay - which is why I don't bid...

Hi Frank,

Yep, you're on target there, I nearly fell off my chair when I won an LX screen 
in an eBay auction from a well known NYC camera store @ US$15.50 only to be 
told that shipping would be US$26.00 :-( They finally agreed upon US$9.00 for 
shipping and when I received the item the USPS stamp was US$3.50, a nice juicy 
handling charge.

Cheers,
Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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Re: Developing Tri-X 400

[William Robb]

- Original Message -
From: "Paul Jones"
Subject: Re: Developing Tri-X 400



> I really like TriX and I like the grain :)

A very important thing, since grain is an intrinsic component of
the final image.
So many things have to be ~right~ for a picture to work. We
dwell on having the correct lens, and the ideal exposure, and
the proper development, and the best paper.
So may times, it seems, all we seem to think about with the film
is "how fine is the grain"?.
Much more important a question, methinks, is "What does the
grain look like?". It doesn't matter how fine grained a film is,
if you shoot 35mm film and make enlargements 8x10 or bigger,
grain is part of the final image.
For myself, the grain had damn well better look nice, or the
image is a failure.
Tri-X has very nice grain.
William Robb
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Re: My impressions of the MIR 20mm f3.5 M42 lens

[Shel Belinkoff]

I don't recall any such promise   I did say I'd take them, use them,
and if I liked them, you could kiss 'em good-bye!

Isn't the Sigma an AF lens?  Is it fixed aperture?

"Paul F. Stregevsky" wrote:

> I have sent both lenses to Shel, who should receive them any day. He has
> promised to give them a rigorous comparison and report his findings more
> scientifically than I could. I trust he will compare them with whatever
> Pentax wides he owns. I own no other rectilinear lens wider than 24mm.
> Would anyone care to send Shel a Mir 20/3.5 in M42 to test with my 20s?
> 
> FV wrote:
> But which 20mm is really good for available light?
> Perhaps the 20/2 Zuiko or the 20/1.4 prototype Pentax...
> 
> Paul replies: The Sigma 20/1.8 has been getting raves. With an 82mm front
> filter, it may excel at all apertures.
> 
> FV wrote:
> AFAIK, all 2.8/20 Flektogons were produced after multicoating
> was adopted by CZJ/PENTACON. So all of them, except perhaps some
> prototypes, are MC/MULTICOATED (and state it with proud letters
> on the barrel, either white or red MC or MULTICOATED in
> capitals).
> 
> Paul replies: I may have inferred wrongly that early CZJ 20/2.8s were not
> multicoated, based on the following posting on, I believe, a Contax user site:
> 
> "In a message dated 11/2/98 4:59:42 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: "The best-known screw mount
> lenses (that is: M 42 x 1) came from the German Democratic Republic (GDR).
> The brand names were Pentacon, Prakticar, Meyer, and - of course - Carl
> Zeiss Jena. Especially CZJ built some outstanding lenses - just remember
> the Tessar 2,8/50, the 1,8/80, and the Flektogon 2,8/20. I own the
> Flektogon in its final multi coating version from 1979 and a Prakticar
> 5,6/500 MC from 1988, both in mint condition."
> 
> I have reviewed jpegs from five or six 20/2.8s in all three mounts, and
> all, indeed, say MC.
> 
> Paul Franklin Stregevsky
> 13 Selby Court
> Poolesville, Maryland 20837-2410
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> H (301) 349-5243
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> This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
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-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: Urgent HELP: OT Nikkor 105mm f2.5 lens

[jmadams]

Many thanks, I checked with Nikon about the lens compatibility with my
Photomic FTn.  But by the time I got home, I barely had time to bid. As it
transpired I was only just outbid.

I found that Nikon Canada actually have a repair place here in Richmond, BC,
but they say it's always hard to get through on the phone.

Regards
James
- Original Message -
From: "Paul F. Stregevsky" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 5:36 PM
Subject: Urgent HELP: OT Nikkor 105mm f2.5 lens


> This lens was quite legendary in its day. I own the Newseum's
> (http://www.newseum.org) book The Pulitzer Prize Photographs: Capture the
> Moment, a compendium of [all?] Pulitzer prize-winning photos from 1942
> through 2000. It's amazing how many were taken by the Nikon 105/2.5 in its
> day. Incidentally, about half the photos were vertical shots.
>
> When the book was introduced, the Newseum said it was going to print just
> 5,000 copies. I rushed to buy mine. Well, they're still selling it
> (http://giftshop.newseum.org/detail.asp?ProductID=52), and the price is
> only $19.95. I think I paid $29.95 or $34.95. A great "read," at times
> powerfully disturbing. I lent this book to everyone I could. One returned
> it visibly shaken.
>
>
> Paul Franklin Stregevsky
> 13 Selby Court
> Poolesville, Maryland 20837-2410
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> H (301) 349-5243
> -
> This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
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Re: Odp: new to list

[frank theriault]

Hi, Chris,

Welcome to the list.  You're in for a fun ride!

I agree with what Artur says, in terms of probably having to go to a pro lab if
you want to give particular instructions as to how you want them to deal with
your prints.  And, unfortunately, there is indeed a price to pay for that.

But, one thing you can do is go to a pro lab, but only get them to do contacts.
Way cheaper than developing and prints, and that way you can get a better idea
of what your prints will look like "unmanipulated" by a great big automatic
machine.  You can then get whichever ones interest you from the contacts printed
up.

And, you'll likely be getting much better quality work done in the bargain.  If
not, you should change labs.

regards,
frank

Artur Ledóchowski wrote:

> No "1 hour" lab will "interact" with the customer:) They put the film into a
> minilab and let the machine do its job, i.e. set the parameters for the
> first frame and go on with them... If all frames were exposed similarly, the
> results will be acceptable, but if not then some of them will be screwed
> up...
> Some other labs (especially professional ones) fulfill their customer's
> wishes, but it may cost something extra...

--
"The optimist thinks this is the best of all possible worlds. The pessimist
fears it is true." -J. Robert
Oppenheimer
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Re: My impressions of the MIR 20mm f3.5 M42 lens

[Paul F. Stregevsky]

Frantisek Vlcek <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Paul,
would you please care to comment or compare the Mir 2.5/20 with
CZJ 2.8/20 ? I own the CZJ and am really curious how the Mir
compares to it.

Paul replies: Frantisek, I've probably bored readers with my series of 
postings about these two lenses and other 20s; search back a week or two 
and you'll find my comments. Basically, the Mir has less contrast but is an 
honest 20--maybe a 19 (my sample, anyway). Both are commendably low in 
distortion, the CZJ more so. I think my CZJ is really 21 or 22 mm, judging 
from how little its angle of view is broader than that of my SMC 24/2.8.

I have sent both lenses to Shel, who should receive them any day. He has 
promised to give them a rigorous comparison and report his findings more 
scientifically than I could. I trust he will compare them with whatever 
Pentax wides he owns. I own no other rectilinear lens wider than 24mm. 
Would anyone care to send Shel a Mir 20/3.5 in M42 to test with my 20s?

FV wrote:
But which 20mm is really good for available light?
Perhaps the 20/2 Zuiko or the 20/1.4 prototype Pentax...

Paul replies: The Sigma 20/1.8 has been getting raves. With an 82mm front 
filter, it may excel at all apertures.

FV wrote:
AFAIK, all 2.8/20 Flektogons were produced after multicoating
was adopted by CZJ/PENTACON. So all of them, except perhaps some
prototypes, are MC/MULTICOATED (and state it with proud letters
on the barrel, either white or red MC or MULTICOATED in
capitals).

Paul replies: I may have inferred wrongly that early CZJ 20/2.8s were not 
multicoated, based on the following posting on, I believe, a Contax user site:

"In a message dated 11/2/98 4:59:42 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: "The best-known screw mount 
lenses (that is: M 42 x 1) came from the German Democratic Republic (GDR). 
The brand names were Pentacon, Prakticar, Meyer, and - of course - Carl 
Zeiss Jena. Especially CZJ built some outstanding lenses - just remember 
the Tessar 2,8/50, the 1,8/80, and the Flektogon 2,8/20. I own the 
Flektogon in its final multi coating version from 1979 and a Prakticar 
5,6/500 MC from 1988, both in mint condition."

I have reviewed jpegs from five or six 20/2.8s in all three mounts, and 
all, indeed, say MC.


Paul Franklin Stregevsky
13 Selby Court
Poolesville, Maryland 20837-2410
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
H (301) 349-5243
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Grain Magnifiers, Bestwell Micro Sight

[Shel Belinkoff]

I've been thinking about supplementing my Peak focusing aid with a
Bestwell Micro Sight.  Anyone have any experience with it?  Comments? 
Pros and Cons?

While I like the Peak, it only magnifies 10x, and sometimes it's hard
for me to be sure the image is focused properly, especially with smaller
enlargements.  The Bestwell offers a 25x magnification, and that's why
I'm drawn to it.
-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: lens value: a workable definition (dollar per photograph)?

[John Mustarde]

On Wed, 02 Jan 2002 08:11:02 -0500, you wrote:

>By conventional thinking, a lens that is 80 percent as good as another at 
>50 percent of the price is a better value. 

No, a really good lens is the least expensive lens, even if it costs
twice as much. You will be more likely to get the shot instead of
wasting film, and you can always re-sell a really good lens for almost
what you paid for it, thereby making your use of it nearly free.

You only live once. A crappy lens uses up your photographic life to no
good purpose, assuming one could possibly afford something optically
better. Your limited opportunities to take pictures is far more
valuable than mere money.

Life is too short for crappy lenses. Been there, done that, learned my
lesson.

--
John Mustarde
www.photolin.com
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Re[2]: MZ-S: a couple of tips

[Bruce Dayton]

Michael,

I have 3 AF360FGZ's.  I can place one or more behind the camera body
and they still fire without being about to *see* the popup flash.  I
have read that section many times, but am not sure to it's
explanation.  I'll do some more experimenting and report back.


Bruce Dayton



Wednesday, January 02, 2002, 5:09:03 PM, you wrote:

MP> Rob Studdert wrote:

>>I haven't begun to delve into the wireless flash area as yet but after reading 
>>your paragraph above I have a question. Is the IR flash trigger a generated by 
>>the MZ-S body?
>>
MP> Actually it's neither IR nor a radio signal that communicates between 
MP> the MZ-S body and the remote AF360 flash.  It is the built-in flash that 
MP> communicates this.  The following directly from the manual; page 37.

MP> The following transfer of information is done with the built-in flash 
MP> when the AF360FGZ is used wirelessly before emitting the flash.
MP> 1) Shutter button is pressed
MP> 2) The built-in flash emits a small control flash (relays the flash mode 
MP> of the camera)
MP> 3) External flash emits a small control flash (relays conformation of 
MP>  subject)
MP> 4) The built-in flash emits a small control flash (relays flash amount 
MP> to external flash)
MP>  *The built-in flash will emit a small control flash one more time 
MP> after this to relay the flash time when HS (High-speed sync) is set.
MP> 5) External flash and built-in flash emit main flash

MP> You can also have the built in flash not fire as part of the main flash 
MP> as one of the PF choices.  And, I might mention, all this happens so 
MP> fast is appears to be only one flash.  Even when the AF360FGZ is mounted 
MP> in the hot shoe, there is a pre-flash that uses the TTL multi-point 
MP> exposure meter to make a reading and that is why the flash exposure is 
MP> so good. However, as I have said before, you can actually see the flash 
MP> in your viewfinder, which normally is not the case as the mirror is up 
MP> during exposure and the main flash.  And my only criticism is that 
MP> people who are prone to blink at a flash, do so during the pre-flashes 
MP> and the main flash/exposure catches them with their eyes closed.  

MP> Cheers,  Mike.
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Re: Showpiece Pentax LX w/FA-1 Finder--Gooeyduck!

[frank theriault]

Hi, Rob,

You're absolutely right, I'm writing as a buyer, not a seller.  However, most of those
that I was thinking about when I was writing my earlier comments were Americans or
Canadians.  And, btw, they have every right to put whatever reserve or BIN on their
items that they want, just as I have every right not to bid - which I don't.

I guess what bothers me is that many of these are big camera stores, looking like
they're trying to sell off old stock, third party lenses, other off-brand stock, or
used merchandise that they can't move.  Their prices or reserves look like they're
about what they would have had the items listed for in their store - certainly more
than I'd pay - which is why I don't bid...

On store in particular, located here in Toronto, puts reserves on their merchandise
that looks at least as high as their asking prices in the store.

I don't know why I worry about it so much.  It's their business, and if some sucker
wants to overpay, more power to them (the store, that is).

It does clog up eBay, and drive prices up, though.  But that's what a free market is
about, though, isn't it?

regards,
frank

Rob Studdert wrote:

> I see your point as a buyer, however from the perspective of buyer and seller I
> would say that the situation that you outline above describes a seller with a
> formula rather than a gambler. Remember that not all sellers operate from the
> USA and I discovered some time back that the sales market ex-USA ain't that
> predictable.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Rob Studdert (eBay ID: distudio)
>
> PO Box 701
> HURSTVILLE BC NSW 1481
> AUSTRALIA
>
> Tel +61-2-9554-4110
> UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> Please check my current eBay auctions:
> http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/ebay/
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> go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
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--
"The optimist thinks this is the best of all possible worlds. The pessimist fears it
is true." -J. Robert
Oppenheimer
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Urgent HELP: OT Nikkor 105mm f2.5 lens

[Paul F. Stregevsky]

This lens was quite legendary in its day. I own the Newseum's 
(http://www.newseum.org) book The Pulitzer Prize Photographs: Capture the 
Moment, a compendium of [all?] Pulitzer prize-winning photos from 1942 
through 2000. It's amazing how many were taken by the Nikon 105/2.5 in its 
day. Incidentally, about half the photos were vertical shots.

When the book was introduced, the Newseum said it was going to print just 
5,000 copies. I rushed to buy mine. Well, they're still selling it 
(http://giftshop.newseum.org/detail.asp?ProductID=52), and the price is 
only $19.95. I think I paid $29.95 or $34.95. A great "read," at times 
powerfully disturbing. I lent this book to everyone I could. One returned 
it visibly shaken.


Paul Franklin Stregevsky
13 Selby Court
Poolesville, Maryland 20837-2410
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
H (301) 349-5243
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Enabled!!!

[Nick Wright]

Hey all,
   Just recieved my af500ftz in the mail today!!! Woo
Hoo!!! I've played around with it a little already and
shot off the last of a roll I had in the pz1p... I
can't believe I waited this long to get this flash!!!
One word... awesome! With a max range at about 100 ft
with f4 lens and 800iso I am going to be a seriously
happy camper with soccer season coming up!

Nick
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
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Re: January PUG apology

[Len Paris]

Apology isn't necessary.  Especially from a Wes Mongomery fan.
Keep 'em comin' in.

Len
---

> Please accept my apology for my woeful attempt this month.  It
appears I
> submitted the wrong version of the photo I wanted on the PUG.
>
> Especially compared to exceptional submissions throughout the
PUG, and to
> add insult to injury, being sandwiched between Cotty's most
recent work of
> art and the lovely submission by Kathleen Leickly, I'm even
more embarrased.
>
> Adelheid, I promise next month I'll have something worthy of
your time!
>
> Hope you all have a peaceful and prosperous New Year!
>
>
> Best regards,
> Chris
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Re: MZ-S: a couple of tips

[Michael Perham]

Rob Studdert wrote:

>I haven't begun to delve into the wireless flash area as yet but after reading 
>your paragraph above I have a question. Is the IR flash trigger a generated by 
>the MZ-S body?
>
Actually it's neither IR nor a radio signal that communicates between 
the MZ-S body and the remote AF360 flash.  It is the built-in flash that 
communicates this.  The following directly from the manual; page 37.

The following transfer of information is done with the built-in flash 
when the AF360FGZ is used wirelessly before emitting the flash.
1) Shutter button is pressed
2) The built-in flash emits a small control flash (relays the flash mode 
of the camera)
3) External flash emits a small control flash (relays conformation of 
 subject)
4) The built-in flash emits a small control flash (relays flash amount 
to external flash)
 *The built-in flash will emit a small control flash one more time 
after this to relay the flash time when HS (High-speed sync) is set.
5) External flash and built-in flash emit main flash

You can also have the built in flash not fire as part of the main flash 
as one of the PF choices.  And, I might mention, all this happens so 
fast is appears to be only one flash.  Even when the AF360FGZ is mounted 
in the hot shoe, there is a pre-flash that uses the TTL multi-point 
exposure meter to make a reading and that is why the flash exposure is 
so good. However, as I have said before, you can actually see the flash 
in your viewfinder, which normally is not the case as the mirror is up 
during exposure and the main flash.  And my only criticism is that 
people who are prone to blink at a flash, do so during the pre-flashes 
and the main flash/exposure catches them with their eyes closed.  

Cheers,  Mike.
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Re: MX hot-shoe and X-sync

[wendy beard]

MX #1's hot shoe has gone cold and the X-synch is decidedly tepid (blows 
hot & cold). I just put it down to it being dropped on its head as a baby.

When I bought MX #2 I made sure I asked the salesman to check that the 
hotshoe worked
Wendy

---
Wendy Beard
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.beard-redfern.com
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Re: Web Page Development

[Paul Stenquist]

If it's similar to Quark Xpress, this may be just right for me. I've been using
Quark for at least 15 years. Sounds like a good bet.
Thanks,
Paul

Cotty wrote

>
> While we're on the subject here (I presume you've opened this thread
> because you're interested in the subject line), if you have a Mac, have a
> look at Softpress Freeway (http://www.softpress.com) which runs a close
> third behind Dreamweaver and GoLive for WYSIWYG web building. Independent
> review puts the code as the cleanest of the lot. There is limited room
> for adding code itself, but that's not what Freeway is about. It's about
> using an application that let's you paste stuff up on a page just where
> you want it, without ever seeing any code at all. The interface is
> extremely similar to QuarkXpress, so print folk will feel right at home.
> It is worth a look, search out a review and read for yourself.
>
> No connection other than satisfied customer. Hey - it has to be simple
> for me to use. If a task extends to much more than the equivalent of
> buttering toast with a knife, it's out of my reach...
>
> Cheers,
>
> Cotty
>
> ___
> Personal email traffic to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> MacAds traffic to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Check out the UK Macintosh ads
> http://www.macads.co.uk
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Re: A Website (Hey, I'm trying)

[Paul Stenquist]

Thanks Frantisek. I'll check it out. I have to get back to working on
the website, but I'm having too much fun taking photographs.
Paul

Frantisek Vlcek wrote:

> Paul,
>  the Irfanview (a freeware image viewer/editor, like ACDsee) can
>  create HTML pages with thumbnails and links to larger files in
>  its thumbnail mode. www.irfanview.com I think. The files are
>  pretty simple-coded, that makes them easy to edit like adding
>  your own header/footer, signature,  link etc.
> Good light,
>Frantisek Vlcek
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Re: January PUG apology

[Gary L. Murphy]

On Wed, 2 Jan 2002 19:25:03 -0500, Chris Niesmertelny wrote:

>Please accept my apology for my woeful attempt this month.  It appears I
>submitted the wrong version of the photo I wanted on the PUG.

If you feel you have to apologize for yours, I feel I must REALLY do the same for 
mine. It's clearly not the best 
shot I ever took, but I thought it interesting. :-)






Later,
Gary
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Re: Showpiece Pentax LX w/FA-1 Finder--Gooeyduck!

[Rob Studdert]

On 2 Jan 2002 at 18:08, frank theriault wrote:

> If there's one thing I can't stand is someone who starts with an unreasonable
> starting price, or has a hugely unreasonable reserve.  Or, those that have a BIN
> which is huge, set at the (also huge ) reserve.  Of course, the remedy is to
> ignore such auctions - which I do.  I just wish everyone else would, too. Just
> drives prices up, imho.

Hi Frank,

I see your point as a buyer, however from the perspective of buyer and seller I 
would say that the situation that you outline above describes a seller with a 
formula rather than a gambler. Remember that not all sellers operate from the 
USA and I discovered some time back that the sales market ex-USA ain't that 
predictable.

Cheers,

Rob Studdert (eBay ID: distudio)

PO Box 701
HURSTVILLE BC NSW 1481
AUSTRALIA

Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours

[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Please check my current eBay auctions:
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/ebay/
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Re: Please help: understanding Pop Photo lens tests

[Gianfranco Irlanda]

Joseph Tainter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> (...)
> So, are the SQF/MTF tables done at some distance other than
closest
> focus? Which distance?

Hi Joe,

The magazines I know usually test the lenses focusing them at 20
times the focal lenght (300x20=6m). This is probably something
Mike Johnston can say with more knowledge (when I reviewed
lenses for the magazine I worked for years ago I never had the
chance to do a MTF test, only real life shooting).

> How do I calculate where, on the distance scale, the sharpest
aperture
> changes from f5.6 to f16 at 300 mm?

That's an interesting question. It should depend on the optical
construction of the lens. My father's 28-200 has an IF
construction that makes it change the true focal lenght
according to the focusing distance. You barely notice that at
28, but zooming to 200 at the minimum distance of focus it seems
to have a 28-135 with a huge zooming stroke from 100 to 135...
I'm sure the focusing distance affects the optical performance
but I'm not so ackowledged to answer to your question... Sorry.
Do you know if the Sigma is a IF lens? 
I seem to recal it is not, so all my rambling is useless...

Gianfranco


=
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January PUG apology

[Chris Niesmertelny]

Please accept my apology for my woeful attempt this month.  It appears I
submitted the wrong version of the photo I wanted on the PUG.

Especially compared to exceptional submissions throughout the PUG, and to
add insult to injury, being sandwiched between Cotty's most recent work of
art and the lovely submission by Kathleen Leickly, I'm even more embarrased.

Adelheid, I promise next month I'll have something worthy of your time!

Hope you all have a peaceful and prosperous New Year!


Best regards,
Chris
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Re[4]: Odp: new to list

[Bruce Dayton]

Chris,

Most 1 hour places don't do slides, but you can ask around and find a
place that does it on site.  Turn around time is usually a few hours.
Price should be $5-$8 per roll of 36.  Prints can be made from slides.
There are many places that do it. I have had good luck and reasonable
prices from The SlidePrinter in Denver.  They will send you prepaid
mailers and cover shipping costs.

Alternatively, you can scan and print slides digitally on an inkjet.
That is what I usually do now.


Bruce Dayton



Wednesday, January 02, 2002, 4:09:29 PM, you wrote:

CM> On Wed, 2 Jan 2002, Bruce Dayton wrote:

>> Chris,
>> 
>> Sometimes, it is a good idea to actually learn and experiment with
>> slide films.  The lab will just process and mount the slides - no
>> machine or human judgement involved.  It helps you learn better
>> because you can see the results of your efforts.  Also, because the
>> film is less forgiving concerning exposure, you will learn metering
>> techniques more easily.  Not only that, you don't have to waste  a
>> stack of prints, just throw away the slides you don't like.
>> 

CM> Can most places process slide film? and I assume prints can be made from
CM> slides as well?

CM> Thanks for all of your help.
CM> - Chris

CM> --
CM> Chris Murray   /"\   
CM> [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ / ASCII RIBBON CAMPAIGN
CM> http://apeman.org/  XAGAINST HTML MAIL 
CM> Cell: 604.861.8307 / \/
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CM> go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
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Re: Dec PUG comments: Chris N.

[Chris Niesmertelny]

Lasse, thanks for the comments.  I left the photo "unretouched" in spirit of
the synchronicity theme.  I do agree some cropping and an exposure change
would have helped.

Wes Montgomery is a good choice!  I think, however, that based on my poor
effort for the January PUG, Wes' song "Sack O'Woe" recorded with Cannonball
Adderly would be choice of soundtrack.

Thanks again, and Happy New Year to you!

Chris


Sorry Chris and all for being this late in commenting.

"Synchronous Willow" by  Chris Niesmertelny,

It also makes me want to listen to (jazz guitar player) Wes Montgomery's
take on the song "Willow Weep For Me". (In fact I think I'm going to
play it right now. Been years since I heard it last.)
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Re: Re[2]: Odp: new to list

[Chris Murray]

On Wed, 2 Jan 2002, Bruce Dayton wrote:

> Chris,
> 
> Sometimes, it is a good idea to actually learn and experiment with
> slide films.  The lab will just process and mount the slides - no
> machine or human judgement involved.  It helps you learn better
> because you can see the results of your efforts.  Also, because the
> film is less forgiving concerning exposure, you will learn metering
> techniques more easily.  Not only that, you don't have to waste  a
> stack of prints, just throw away the slides you don't like.
> 

Can most places process slide film? and I assume prints can be made from
slides as well?

Thanks for all of your help.
- Chris

--
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http://apeman.org/  XAGAINST HTML MAIL 
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Re: SNOW!

[frank theriault]

Two inches!  Geez, you could be in Buffalo!

Very strange (well, perhaps not so...), but here in Toronto, we have no snow at
all, despite the fact that we're probably less than 100 miles from Buffalo.  But
they get Lake Effect Snow from Lake Erie, which always blows by Toronto.  As all
of you in North America have probably heard, poor Buffalo got over 7 feet of
snow, from Christmas Eve to New Years eve, and a state of emergency has been
declared.

We did get snow, a couple or 4 inches a couple of weekends ago, but that all
melted within a couple of days.  I did manage to get out there with the cameras
and get some pics of the fresh-fallen snow, though.  Lots of fun!!

Enjoy it while you have it!

regards,
frnak

C or B Waters wrote:

> Hey Evan,
> If we get the two inches they talked about, it should be here this evening.
> Cory
>

--
"The optimist thinks this is the best of all possible worlds. The pessimist
fears it is true." -J. Robert
Oppenheimer
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Please help: understanding Pop Photo lens tests

[Joseph Tainter]

I've order the Sigma 70-300 APO Macro. Lenses in this range are always
weakest at the long end, and I want to shoot for maximum possible
sharpness at 300 mm. Popular Photography reviewed the lens in the March
2000 issue. They say that at 300 mm. and closest macro distance (a bit
less than 1 m.), the lens is sharpest at f5.6. According to the table
showing SQF/MTF, though, the lens at 300 mm. is clearly sharpest at f16.

So, are the SQF/MTF tables done at some distance other than closest
focus? Which distance?

How do I calculate where, on the distance scale, the sharpest aperture
changes from f5.6 to f16 at 300 mm?

Thanks very much,

Joe
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Re: Developing Tri-X 400

[Paul Jones]

Hi,

After some discussion with Shel, he reccomended TriX to me and i've been
using it for most of my b/w since then, i do use Neopan 1600 when i need
some xtra speed (which is a really good film for its speed).

I really like TriX and I like the grain :) Although i havent tried that many
other 400 b/w films, the other film i have used is Neopan 400 and a little
HP4.

I develop mine in Xtol, I have also developed it in Rodinal (only twice) and
ID-11 a number of times. But with Xtol i seem to get a nice combination of
sharpeness, fine grain and nice tones. I think it was slighty sharper in
Rodinal, but not by much. But the grain was a problem for me.

Regards,
Paul Jones
- Original Message -
From: "J. C. O'Connell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 5:06 PM
Subject: RE: Developing Tri-X 400


> Why are people so enamored with Tri-X?
> I use Tmax 100 developed with Tmax developer
> and the results are outstanding. Tri-X is
> so grainy I dont understand why anyone would
> want to use it anymore.
>
> Just a quick comment on Tmax 400, it's way too
> fussy and I have never been able to get good
> results with it. Maybe thats why Tri-X still
> survives?
>
> JCO
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RE: Re[2]: Odp: new to list

[Malcolm Smith]

Chris,

Sometimes, it is a good idea to actually learn and experiment with
slide films.  The lab will just process and mount the slides - no
machine or human judgement involved.  It helps you learn better
because you can see the results of your efforts.  Also, because the
film is less forgiving concerning exposure, you will learn metering
techniques more easily.  Not only that, you don't have to waste  a
stack of prints, just throw away the slides you don't like.


Bruce Dayton

--
Sorry to disagree with you, but with slides I wouldn't recommend you throw
them away. Hell, if you don't want them I'll have them :-)

Even with my admitted low knowledge of photography, I can tell you that I
have used utter disasters in borrowed equipment that photos slides, and used
the duff ones as a secondary background with some good effects. Not many, I
grant you, but just the one was enough to prove it worthwhile, and how much
room do slides take up? You may find, like me that a rubbish slide taken 5
years ago is just what you want today for another purpose.

I'll turn the central heating off now; I expect to be flamed to a crisp.

Malcolm
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Re: Re: Question for seller -- Item #1316793311]

[Steve Larson]

Hi Bob, I don`t think any M42`s ever said "SMC PENTAX" on them.
I think it was a K mount modified to be a T mount.
Steve Larson
Redondo Beach, California

Bob Blakely wrote:


> Often this means the item is a "T" mount. I have two of these. Strictly
> speaking, it is a screw mount to which various adapters, K mount included,
> can be attached. No provision is made for any control of any kind, i.e. no
> diaphragm control. This mount is somewhat common on telescopes designed to
> also be used on cameras.
>
> However, this is not the case here. The lens is Pentax screw mount and she
> has a K mount adapter for it.
>
> Regards,
> Bob...
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Odp: Converting M42 lens to K mount?

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

I wrote to SRB (http://www.srbfilm.co.uk), lens conversion specialists in England. 
This was their reponse:

It may be possible to convert your lenses to PK fitting. Basically, this  
would involve fitting a modified PK/M42 adaptor to each lens, and machining  
the bayonet release cut out on the rear of the lens mount. As you suggest, no 
diaphragm coupling will be possible, and the lenses should all have the A/M switch. 

If you let me know how many lenses are involved, and exactly what they are, I will be 
able to let you have a price. 

>From you e-mail, it would appear you are not in the UK. Please check on the  
shipping costs at your end, as this may be expensive. Also, you need to check on the 
paperwork for 'temporary export' , as you might be charged import duty on their 
return. 

f you have not already found it, see our on-line catalogue and price list on our 
website www.srbfilm.co.uk. Simply click on the hyperlink.  

Regards,
Ian


Paul Stregevsky
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/ .
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Re: Song reference to Pentax

[Ken Archer]

I got a fast connection and I just happen to be a Michael Franks fan.  
If you are so inclined you can email it to me.

On Wednesday 02 January 2002 17:08, you wrote:
> It's a big file.  I doubt if anyone wants you to e-mail it to
> them. ;-)
>
> Len
> ---
> - Original Message -
> From: "Lon Williamson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 6:29 AM
> Subject: Re: Song reference to Pentax
>
> > Michael Franks wrote this tune.
> > I've got the MP3, if anyone's interested.
> > -Lon
>-- 
Kenneth Archer + San Antonio, Texas
[EMAIL PROTECTED]   ICQ #24980801
Powered by Linux ++ Mailed by Kmail
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Re: lens value: a workable definition (dollar per photograph)?

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

My thanks to Shel and others who have pointed out the limitations of my assumption. To 
my surprise and delight, you've given me reason to go for something a cut above 
Quantaray. A memorable picture is worth more than the paper it's printed on or the 
cost it took to print it.

Paul Stregevsky
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/ .
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Re: A Website (Hey, I'm trying)

[Frantisek Vlcek]

Paul,
 the Irfanview (a freeware image viewer/editor, like ACDsee) can
 create HTML pages with thumbnails and links to larger files in
 its thumbnail mode. www.irfanview.com I think. The files are
 pretty simple-coded, that makes them easy to edit like adding
 your own header/footer, signature,  link etc.
Good light,
   Frantisek Vlcek
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Re: Metz SCA3701 vs 3702?

[Frantisek Vlcek]

On another note, I had problems with using my flash on a friends MZ50
- the sCA was 372, which lacks the cutout on front of the shoe foot.
It fit well (but not like original with the cutout) on my SFXn, but
seemed to not get contact with the MZ50 - it didn't fire. It's only
the AF bodies with the cutout? My K2DMD lacks  it. Or maybe MZ50
can't use analog(sca 300 series) flashes?

Thanks
Frantisek
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Re: Prime Film 1800U

[Frantisek Vlcek]

KG> Actually the Epson slide adapter can do up to 2400 DPI on the 12xx series
KG> and up to 3200 DPI when installed on a 16xx scanner. Of course the dynamic
KG> range is only around 3-3.2 or so.
KG> Kent Gittings

I am not sure if you mean the same flatbed as I, but the Epson
Perfection Photo series or how is it called certainly can't do 1600 or
3200 ppi?!? The scanner's hardware resolution is only 1200 and 1600
ppi respectively, and in fact even less, as Epson used dual CCD of 600
and 800 ppi coupled together, ofset by 1/2 pixel size, and
interpolated into 1200 and 1600 ppi (so it's similar to digicams, the
real resolution of image detail is somewhat lower than the stated
resolution). I don't see a way it could turn out decent pics at 3200
ppi, unless there was some optical teleconvertor in enlarging the
image.

Good light,
 Frantisek Vlcek
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Re: My impressions of the MIR 20mm f3.5 M42 lens; a Super

[Frantisek Vlcek]

Paul,
 would you please care to comment or compare the Mir 2.5/20 with
 CZJ 2.8/20 ? I own the CZJ and am really curious how the Mir
 compares to it. I have done 26x39cm (fullframe-that's 30x40cm
 paper, I usually frame and print fullframe) which are really
 sharp, at f/8 1/60 handheld. It has also suprisingly low
 geometric distorsion, but corners are softer at wide apertures
 and close focus (no floating elements - close focus is IMHO
 pretty soft) - IMHO it's best for landscapes/architecture/people
 from normal-moderate distance, not available light or near-macro
 distances. But which 20mm is really good for avaialble light?
 Perhaps the 20/2 Zuiko or the 20/1.4 prototype Pentax...
 All in all, I _love_ the lens, and now I am looking for a better
 body for it - something M42 (tired of using it via adapter, and
 my onyl M42 body - Praktica - got a broken meter after long fall
 on stone, even if otherwise works well, it's in
 permanent-disassembly-repair state, with no time to finish it,
 for over a two years )

 `BTW, did you (or anybody else) did a comparsion of the various
 20mm side by side? Especially the Pentax M & A ones versus ex-USSR and
 CZJ 2.8/20?

 BTW, I think you are mistaken on few facts about the CZJ 2.8/20:

 1) there is no native K version. Carl Zeiss Jena only produced
 them in M42 mount (both plain and ELECTRIC), then in B (Praktica
 Bayonet) mount (which is something of a copy of K mount, but
 uses the ELECTRIC system of open-aperture metering, instead of
 mechanical linkage). So all K mount versions are remachined by
 machineshops. See my post about M42>K.

(in response to...)
PFS> I own a Flektogon 2.8/20 in K mount. There are probably four M42s
PFS> for every K, but if you are patient you can find a K. Be advised,
PFS> however, that the K mount is for fit only; like the M42, it
PFS> darkens the viewfinder as you stop down. Still, it's nice to be

 2) AFAIK, all 2.8/20 Flektogons were produced after multicoating
 was adopted by CZJ/PENTACON. So all of them, except perhaps some
 prototypes, are MC/MULTICOATED (and state it with proud letters
 on the barrel, either white or red MC or MULTICOATED in
 capitals). The multicoating is not as good as SMC of same time,
 but it improved well with age, with the B mount multicoating
 quite good (even the original MC was way better than contemporary
 "MC" of such makers as Vivitar or Kiron or Sun/Sigma).

 The earlier Flektogon, the 4/20mm Flektogon was singlecoated,
 with the latest ones maybe multicoated (but I never saw one MCd).
 so there the confusion might come from.

 I have never seen or heard about singlecoated 2.8/20 flektogon.
(in response to...)
PFS> I  believe all Ks are multicoated. (Only the most recent M42s are
PFS> multicoated.) Be advised, however, that the K mount is for fit only; like 

That's all ;)

PFS> I ruined a Super Program's autoaperture by carelessly removing a Pentax
PFS> M42-to-K adapter. My dealer advised me to put the adapter on one body and 
PFS> never remove it.

 And I never understand why pentax didn't choose same route when
 changing mounts like Pentacon did with Prakticas - from M42 to B
 bayonet. They decreased the register distance, so an adapter
 exists that can the lens be screwed into permanently, and with
 the adapter removed from (or put on) a B mount body quickly. Of course still
 stop-wodn metering, but much better than Pentax's route. I too
 almost ruined a Pentax body while removing the adapter (fortunately,
 almost). But as I don't want the 2.8/20 or 1.8/80 be drilled
 into (losing part of their value), I am looking for a good M42
 body, preferably spotmatic or pre-sptmtc asahi. I personally feel
 M42 lenses are really nice when one can screw them - it makes
 you choose a given focal length for given action better, because
 changing is slower, and it's also more precise fit than any
 bayonet can give.

Good light,
 Frantisek Vlcek
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Re: MZ-S and AF360FGZ musings

[Gianfranco Irlanda]

Rob Studdert <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi Bill et.al,
> 
> What's your favourite "pics of the family in P&S mode with
flash" film?

Hi Rob,

Usually I shot in situations like that using either the Supra
400/800 (according to the available light) or the Portra
160/400.
I prefer the Portras when I plan to do enlargements of 20x30cm
and over. My father shots with the Supra 800 almost all the time
and is happy with the results, even with enlargements of
30x40cm. He uses slow zoom lenses, though.

Ciao,

Gianfranco





=
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
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Fuji Frontier Location

[ewkphoto]

I am looking for a Fuji Frontier machine located locally to me.  Can anyone offer a 
listing of locations?  I searched Fuji's website and came up with nothing.

I am located in Bergen County, New Jersey, USA!

Thanks...
Ed K.
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Re: Newly skinned LXs.

[aimcompute]

I can see a Pentax Animal Rights thread coming up in the future. :-)

Tom C.


> Hi Cesar,
>
> I look forward to your updates regarding wear and I am also interested to
hear
> if they adhesive holds up. Was it a peel off the paper backing type? Any
> manufacturers information on the backing tape if so?
>
> Talking of natural camera body coverings one of my Leicas is covered in
Ostrich
> leather and I must admit I tend to gravitate towards this body as it has a
> better feel and is nicer to hold than the standard synthetic coverings.
>
> Cheers,
> Rob Studdert
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Re[2]: MZ-S: a couple of tips

[Bruce Dayton]

Rob,

I've been playing with it some and it is *not* an I/R trigger.  It is
a radio wave of some type.  The flashes do not have to be line of
sight of the body and yes the MZ-S body generates it.


Bruce Dayton



Wednesday, January 02, 2002, 2:13:38 PM, you wrote:

RS> On 2 Jan 2002 at 7:05, Pat White wrote:

>> Also, last month, while using studio flash cordlessly (using the MZ-S's
>> built-in flash to trigger the studio flash), I picked up the stereo remote to
>> turn down the music and found it triggered the studio flash (Yamaha stereo,
>> Bowens flash w/Bowens IR trigger).  Could be handy for cordless light readings.

RS> Hi Pat,

RS> I haven't begun to delve into the wireless flash area as yet but after reading 
RS> your paragraph above I have a question. Is the IR flash trigger a generated by 
RS> the MZ-S body?

RS> Cheers,
RS> Rob Studdert
RS> HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
RS> Tel +61-2-9554-4110
RS> UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
RS> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RS> http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
RS> -
RS> This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
RS> go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
RS> visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
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Re: LX located

[Geoff Moes]

Thanks!  Just snagged the 300. I've been looking for the A*300 for a 
while.  It was $375 in case w/caps for an 8+, seems like a very 
reasonable price.  We’ll see when I get it, I bought an MX there a 
while ago but it was broken. They were great about taking back and 
reimbursing me though.  I think they might have done themselves a 
disservice by not listing it as the Greenstar on their website, 
hopefully that is the reason for the low price.

Geoff




Date sent:  Wed,  2 Jan 2002 13:18:42 -0500
From:   "Collin Brendemuehl" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "PDML" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject:LX located
Send reply to:  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

> At my fequent lunch-stop, www.mpex.com,
> there's a Pentax LX and Winder.  Body could
> definitely use a cleaning.  A bit dusty,
> and some corrosion on the shoe contacts (FA-1).
> Appears to be a bit of bumper wear as well.
> 
> Winder is in nice shape.
> 
> They also still have an A* 300/4 in case, and
> a KX with a dead meter.
> 
> Collin
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MX for sale

[Tonghang Zhou]

I've got an MX (chrome top) for sale.  I'm putting it here
before it goes on eBay.

Cosmetically and mechanically fine, except for the following:

It needs an CLA: mirror foam is gone, seal foam deteriorated,
and the shutter button sticks a bit, causing the battery to
drain unless you fold in the winding level.  The battery cover
has some chrome chiped off it, but works fine.

Meter and speeds are accurate though.

I'm asking $70.  Shipping to US addresses is $5.  Money order
or PayPal or check (needs waiting.)

Thanks,
Tonghang.
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Re: new to list

[aimcompute]

Welcome,

Others more knowledgeable than me can answer better.

With a negative, "everything" is an interpretation.  There is no such thing
as "as is".Unlike transparency films where what you see is what you get.
Certain adjustments can be made, but it's the observer's intuition and
memory that determines what constitutes a correctly processed print.
There's a lot of latitude for exposure and correction with negative film.

Tom C.

- Original Message -
From: "Chris Murray" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 12:19 PM
Subject: new to list


> Hi All -
>
> I just joined the list, and thought that I would introduce myself. I am a
> new pentax owner, and I am also fairly new to photography, having only
> used point and shoot cameras in the past. I picked up a Pentax MZ-50 kit
> with a 35-80 zoom to start out with. I choose Pentax because my father has
> had the same pentax camera and lenses for over 20 years, and it keeps on
> going.
>
> I'm In the Greater Vancouver area of BC, Canada, so there is no shortage
> of pictures to take.
>
> I am starting to venture out of "pict" mode now, using Av mode to start
> out with. :) So far I think my prints are okay, but the lab that I take
> them to may not be the best. Can you ask almost any lab to not "fix" the
> prints and do them as is from the negative?
>
> Cheers - Chris
>
> --
> Chris Murray   /"\
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ / ASCII RIBBON CAMPAIGN
> http://apeman.org/  XAGAINST HTML MAIL
> Cell: 604.861.8307 / \/
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Re[2]: Newly skinned LXs.

[Bob Walkden]

Hi,

> Talking of natural camera body coverings one of my Leicas is covered in Ostrich
> leather 

I've replaced all my lens hoods with fanned-out peacock tails, and my
tripods with a stuffed mammoth's leg...

---

 Bob  

mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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RE: Newly skinned LXs.

[Matamoros, Cesar A.]

> Rob Studdert [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Wednesday, January 02, 2002 5:14 PM
> 
> On 1 Jan 2002 at 11:28, Matamoros, Cesar A. wrote:
> 
> >  As to the replacement around the memo holder - you use a sharp knife
> > to cut along the holder.  The replacement leather does not go underneath
> the
> > holder.  I thought I had mentioned this on my page.  Sorry I was not so
> clear. 
> > On one of the removals the piece under the top-side of the holder came
> out. 
> > Another nicety is that the replacement is cut to match the curved bottom
> portion
> > of the holder.  A nice fit all around. Of the two installations there
> are just
> > two places that may take advantage of trimming. Nothing annoying though.
> 
> Hi Cesar,
> 
> I look forward to your updates regarding wear and I am also interested to
> hear 
> if they adhesive holds up. Was it a peel off the paper backing type? Any 
> manufacturers information on the backing tape if so?
> 
> Talking of natural camera body coverings one of my Leicas is covered in
> Ostrich 
> leather and I must admit I tend to gravitate towards this body as it has a
> 
> better feel and is nicer to hold than the standard synthetic coverings.
> 
> Cheers,
> Rob Studdert
> HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
> Tel +61-2-9554-4110
> UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
> -
> 
Rob,

Like I commented earlier, I definitely like the feel of the skins
over the original leatherettes.  I will keep you posted on wear.  The paper
that came with the skins said that no special cleaning or protecting from
water is necessary.  I will reread the paper when I get home and post if it
is different.

The skins were attached to a 'plastic-backed' sheet.  The adhesive
is on the skins.  So it was a peel off the paper backing.  There was a small
strip of paper on the ends to facilitate removal from the sheet.  I did not
note the manufacturer sorry.  I removed the paper at her house so I cannot
rummage through the garbage to find it.  I believe it was 3M.

César Matamoros II
Panama City, Florida
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Odp: new to list

[Artur Ledóchowski]

- Original Message -
From: Chris Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: new to list


> I just joined the list

Welcome:))

> I picked up a Pentax MZ-50 kit with a 35-80 zoom to start out with.

Good starting point:)

> I choose Pentax because my ather has
> had the same pentax camera and lenses for over 20 years, and it keeps on
> going.

So what is it? K1000? ME Super? LX?:))

> I am starting to venture out of "pict" mode now, using Av mode to start
> out with. :) So far I think my prints are okay, but the lab that I take
> them to may not be the best. Can you ask almost any lab to not "fix" the
> prints and do them as is from the negative?

No "1 hour" lab will "interact" with the customer:) They put the film into a
minilab and let the machine do its job, i.e. set the parameters for the
first frame and go on with them... If all frames were exposed similarly, the
results will be acceptable, but if not then some of them will be screwed
up...
Some other labs (especially professional ones) fulfill their customer's
wishes, but it may cost something extra...
Greetz
Artur
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Re: MZ-S and AF360FGZ musings

[tom]

Rob Studdert wrote:
> 
> Hi Bill et.al,
> 
> What's your favourite "pics of the family in P&S mode with flash" film?

Portra 400NC.

tv
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RE: RE: Newly skinned LXs.

[Matamoros, Cesar A.]

Christian,

I had noted some of the lizard skins but my friend who gave them to
me said that the skins were more along my personality.  She described it as
unique but not showy.  I don't know how to take that.

I will try to remember to cart the two with me the next northern
trip I take.

César Matamoros II
Panama City, Florida


> [EMAIL PROTECTED] [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> 
> Definitely bring them!  I will reserve final judgement until after I
> see them in person. Until then you get ;-( hahaha
> I did notice some skins on his site that were a little more subtle
> and more to my liking than the white skins.  Maybe some lizard for the MX?
> 
> 
> Christian
> 
> Cesar wrote:
> > Christian,
> 
>   Does this mean that I shouldn't bring it them out when we next meet?
> ;-)  
> 
>   Actually, with so many LXs it was becoming harder to discern between
> them.  I still have to take them out to shoot.  My biggest concern is
> whether it will make me more noticeable when shooting.  If this happens
> then
> I will have two normal ones to use.
> 
>   As you say they are still LXs ;-)
> 
>   César Matamoros II
>   Panama City, Florida
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Re: MZ-S and AF360FGZ musings

[Michael Perham]

Some others have commented on also getting good results with the AF280T 
...I too have used that but you must see the difference with the AF360 
to truly appreciate how well the matrix metering with the pre-flash 
work.  As Bill mentioned, it does a great job of intergrating flash and 
ambient light and and even though I have been using TTL flash for a long 
time, (LX and SuperProgram) I have never had such good results previously.  

Cheers,  Mike.

Bill Owens wrote:

>At a New Year's eve get together I mounted the AF360 on the MZ-S and used
>the system as a glorified P&S.  The results were astounding.  ALL of the
>exposures were dead on, there was not a trace of redeye.  As a matter of
>fact, it was difficult to tell that flash was even used on the majority of
>the shots.
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Re: MZ-S: a couple of tips

[Rob Studdert]

On 2 Jan 2002 at 7:05, Pat White wrote:

> Also, last month, while using studio flash cordlessly (using the MZ-S's
> built-in flash to trigger the studio flash), I picked up the stereo remote to
> turn down the music and found it triggered the studio flash (Yamaha stereo,
> Bowens flash w/Bowens IR trigger).  Could be handy for cordless light readings.

Hi Pat,

I haven't begun to delve into the wireless flash area as yet but after reading 
your paragraph above I have a question. Is the IR flash trigger a generated by 
the MZ-S body?

Cheers,
Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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Re: MZ-S and AF360FGZ musings

[Rob Studdert]

On 2 Jan 2002 at 11:17, Bill Owens wrote:

> At a New Year's eve get together I mounted the AF360 on the MZ-S and used
> the system as a glorified P&S.  The results were astounding.  ALL of the
> exposures were dead on, there was not a trace of redeye.  As a matter of
> fact, it was difficult to tell that flash was even used on the majority of
> the shots.

Hi Bill et.al,

What's your favourite "pics of the family in P&S mode with flash" film?

Cheers,
Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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RE: Newly skinned LXs.

[Rob Studdert]

On 1 Jan 2002 at 11:28, Matamoros, Cesar A. wrote:

>  As to the replacement around the memo holder - you use a sharp knife
> to cut along the holder.  The replacement leather does not go underneath the
> holder.  I thought I had mentioned this on my page.  Sorry I was not so clear. 
> On one of the removals the piece under the top-side of the holder came out. 
> Another nicety is that the replacement is cut to match the curved bottom portion
> of the holder.  A nice fit all around. Of the two installations there are just
> two places that may take advantage of trimming. Nothing annoying though.

Hi Cesar,

I look forward to your updates regarding wear and I am also interested to hear 
if they adhesive holds up. Was it a peel off the paper backing type? Any 
manufacturers information on the backing tape if so?

Talking of natural camera body coverings one of my Leicas is covered in Ostrich 
leather and I must admit I tend to gravitate towards this body as it has a 
better feel and is nicer to hold than the standard synthetic coverings.

Cheers,
Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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Re: lens value: a workable definition (dollar per photograph)?

[Rob Studdert]

On 2 Jan 2002 at 8:11, Paul F. Stregevsky wrote:

> By conventional thinking, a lens that is 80 percent as good as another at 
> 50 percent of the price is a better value. I propose an alternative 
> definition of value: cost per photograph taken. By this definition, the 
> cheapest lens nearly always must win.

Paul,

Your equation doesn't work for me. Some of us are just prepared to sacrifice a 
bit more and buy the best available in order to provide the optimum potential 
(in the given format). I never want to be wishing I'd shot "that" shot with a 
better lens.

Cheers,
Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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Urgent HELP: OT Nikkor 105mm f2.5 lens

[jmadams]

Urgent HELP:
I've been considering buying a 105mm portrait lens for my Nikon Photomic
FTn. A Nikkor 105mm F2.5 turned up on ebay
(which apparently was used with an F3).

1. Am I correct in assuming it would be an AI lens? If so,
2. Can I still use it with my Nikon F(FTn) camera, as the lens has a meter
linkage lug on the aperture ring?
Regards
James
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Re: MX hot-shoe and x-sync

[Pat White]

Actually, I should have said: using the FP socket causes the shutter opening
to delay after triggering the flash, to allow the bulb to reach full
brightness.

Pat White
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Re: MX hot-shoe and X-sync

[Pat White]

I don't believe it will sync with an electronic flash, as the FP socket has a
short built-in delay to allow the flashbulb to reach full brightness.  But
what the heck, try a slow speed and see what happens.

Pat White
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Re: Pentacon 400/4?

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Kent, 

You're right. The lens in question, on German EBay, is a 300/4: 

http://cgi.ebay.de/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1315106059 

Since I'm also thinking of getting a moderately fast 300, I appreciate the tip to pass 
on the Pentacon.  

By the way, there's a coated PK-mount Enna 400/4.5 (yes, K mount), mint, for sale on 
the Web for something like $450. Since it seems you want one badly. I didn't want 
anyone to beat you to it, so write to me for the URL. Igor of Igorcameras.com has 
several Enna 400/4.5s, in Exacta and Topcon mounts, for $395 
(http://www.igorcamera.com/Exacta%20&%20Topcon.htm). I also know of a Piesker 400/4.5 
or two for sale; one in M42, the other I think in K mount. Write to me for those URLs, 
too. Any that you're not interested in, I'll share them with the list
PS: If you had to choose between the Enna 400/4.5K at $450 and the Pentax 400/5.6 PKA 
at $500, which would you choose?

Paul Stregevsky 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 


Kent Giddings wrote:  
Are you sure it is 400/4 and not 400/4.5? Most Pentacon lenses were made by  
only a couple of makers and I can't find any listing for a 400/4. There were  
2 400/4.5 lenses that I know of. One by Piesker and one by Enna. I got  
outbid on one of the former a short time ago and the Enna is very rare.  
Pentacon only had 2 telephotos with their own name inscribed on them, and  
both were built by Meyer Gorlitz (because part of Pentacon later) and were  
the same as the M-G Orestegor lenses. One was a 300/4 and the other a  
500/5.6. Neither is as good as the Aus Jena 300/4 Sonnar and the 500/5.6 is  
not considered as good as the current Ukrainian 500/5.6 MC APO-Arsat.  
Most of these were available in 35mm mounts also.  
Kent Gittings  





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Odp: Converting M42 lens to K mount?

[Maciej Marchlewski]

- Original Message -
From: Paul F. Stregevsky <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> Maciej, how and where can I have this done? I agree with you: It's hard to
> switch back and forth, and I'd rather not dedicate a body to screwmounts.

I bought it already converted but I'll try to find out as much as I can
about whether such conversion can be ordered to be made or not. More details
soon.

Maciej Marchlewski
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Re: Re: Cotty's Pentax Mods updated

[David Brooks]

I could have asked in mm but then i'd be
stretching LOL LOL 

Dave("what is your favorite colour") Brooks

 Begin Original Message 

From: Cotty <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

That's more to do with the size of the bottle I 
had available - waddya think I'm a scientist or sumpin? 


Pentax User
Stouffville Ontario Canada

Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail 
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Re: lens value: a workable definition (dollar per photograph)?

[Tonghang Zhou]

I suppose this is where certain other brands have an advantage.

In photo stores, you can rent those lenses (and cameras) for a day
or a week, lenses you'd otherwise never use due to their high
prices.

But no Pentex for rent.

I recently visited a store, not only did they not have any Pentax to
rent, they didn't even have a used pentax to sell.  Only new stuff,
and just the zooms.  But they had lots of certain other brands' used
lenses, both for rent and for sale.

Regards,
___
Tonghang Zhou ("Zhou" is pronounced like Joe)

On Wed, 2 Jan 2002, Paul F. Stregevsky wrote:

> But I'll probably use a 400mm lens for maybe 15 shots a year. At that rate,
> the cost per photo will be astronomical at any price, and perhaps I should
> settle for a $200 specimen. Or a teleconverter, which would spare me the
> need to buy yet another protective filter and carry yet another big lens.
>
> It seems unfair that frequency of use must dictate the quality that it is
> prudent to buy, but I can't escape the math.
>
> It would certainly seem that a well-built lens is an extravagance for
> someone who will probably not see rugged use. So a lens that has a
> reputation for being optically excellent but mechanically mediocre would be
> a good candidate for the infrequent user.
>
> Comments?
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RE: MX hot-shoe and X-sync

[Collin Brendemuehl]

I've seen it happen to many a MX.  Seems to be (frequently, anyway) a loose wire or 
cold solder joint.  There may be other causes as well.  This one is fixable.

"Focal Plane" sync is designed optimally for #6 bulbs.  There's a minimal, but 
apparently real, difference between the variant flash bulb syncs and bulb types.  
Pentax, as far as I can tell, always used "FP" sync.
Other cameras, including my son's Rolleiflex 2.8C and my LF shutter, identify the sync 
as "M", which would be for #5 bulbs.

Isn't history fascinating?  :)

Collin


Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 12:39:25 -0600 
From: "Paris, Leonard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
Subject: RE: MX hot-shoe and X-sync 

It will sync at all shutter speeds, if you use FP class flash bulbs.  That's 
what FP sync is for. 

Len 
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Re: Web Page Development

[Cotty]

>I use Dreamweaver, you can download a trial from the Macromedia website.
>Interface is different from most other HTML editing software, shouldnt take
>long to get used to it and once you do its an extremely powerful edit
>program.

While we're on the subject here (I presume you've opened this thread 
because you're interested in the subject line), if you have a Mac, have a 
look at Softpress Freeway (http://www.softpress.com) which runs a close 
third behind Dreamweaver and GoLive for WYSIWYG web building. Independent 
review puts the code as the cleanest of the lot. There is limited room 
for adding code itself, but that's not what Freeway is about. It's about 
using an application that let's you paste stuff up on a page just where 
you want it, without ever seeing any code at all. The interface is 
extremely similar to QuarkXpress, so print folk will feel right at home. 
It is worth a look, search out a review and read for yourself.

No connection other than satisfied customer. Hey - it has to be simple 
for me to use. If a task extends to much more than the equivalent of 
buttering toast with a knife, it's out of my reach...

Cheers,

Cotty

___
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new to list

[Chris Murray]

Hi All -

I just joined the list, and thought that I would introduce myself. I am a
new pentax owner, and I am also fairly new to photography, having only
used point and shoot cameras in the past. I picked up a Pentax MZ-50 kit
with a 35-80 zoom to start out with. I choose Pentax because my father has
had the same pentax camera and lenses for over 20 years, and it keeps on
going.

I'm In the Greater Vancouver area of BC, Canada, so there is no shortage
of pictures to take.

I am starting to venture out of "pict" mode now, using Av mode to start
out with. :) So far I think my prints are okay, but the lab that I take
them to may not be the best. Can you ask almost any lab to not "fix" the
prints and do them as is from the negative?

Cheers - Chris

--
Chris Murray   /"\   
[EMAIL PROTECTED] \ / ASCII RIBBON CAMPAIGN
http://apeman.org/  XAGAINST HTML MAIL 
Cell: 604.861.8307 / \/
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RE: Newly skinned LXs.

[Malcolm Smith]

I hope this is the American use of the word "pants" :-)

Malcolm

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of tom
Sent: 02 January 2002 21:34
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Newly skinned LXs.


"Matamoros, Cesar A." wrote:
> > tv said:
> >
> > These will look fantastic with your leopard-print pants.
> >
> > tv
> > -
>  Tom,
> 
> I have been meaning to thank you for those pants :-)
> 

Well, I thought they could use a good home after I went to the zebra
stripe motif. 


tv
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Re: Cotty's Pentax Mods updated

[Cotty]

>One question before i drink the rest of the bleach
>out of the bottle,how far over the top of the flash is your 
>overhang.Looks about 2 1/2 inches or so
>
>God this stuff taste bad

Sorry for the delay - mac.com was having a snooze last night and I 
couldn't get any mail til today...

Only 1.5 inches overhang. That's more to do with the size of the bottle I 
had available - waddya think I'm a scientist or sumpin? I spose another 
half inch at least could help - and maybe a half inch either side - like 
a Cobra's head. I wanted something small and stuffable into a pocket.

Ideally I would like a small 'drawer' on top of the flash so that the 
white plastic could pull out and stay out when desired. Unfortunately I 
set myself a project duration of approximately five minutes and my R and 
D department rejected anything other than a rubber band...

;-)

Cheers,

Cotty

___
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Correction eyepiece adapters (diopters)

[W Peifer]

Hi all, and Happy Holidays!

I had a question for those of you who are familiar with use of some of the Nikon 
accessories on Pentax cameras and lenses -- here goes

I'm quite happy since recently aquiring an SMC correction eyepiece adapter.  I don't 
like shooting with my glasses on, and this little correction lens makes sharp focusing 
a real pleasure.  I'd like to get a spare for a second K body, as well as an adapter-M 
for my MZ-50.  The genuine Pentax ones are hard to come by used, and a bit expensive 
new ($20 from Adorama).  I notice that Nikon has a correction diopter in a rectangular 
frame for the N50/60/65/70/80, 6006, and FM10 series bodies.  Anyone know if these 
would fit on either a Pentax K or M body?  For that matter, anyone know of any 
third-party correction diopters that fit Pentax K or M?  Or perhaps a camera store in 
the US with a stock of used Pentax ones?  Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Bill Peifer
Rochester, NY


Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping!
http://www.shopping.altavista.com
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Re: Resolution (New Year's, that is...)

[tom]

My resolution is to quit my job to do photography full time. The only
question is how long I can hold out

MUSTNOT...TELLBOSS...TO...SHOVEITMUSTNOT...TELLBOSS...TO...SHOVEITMUSTNOT...TELLBOSS...TO...SHOVEITYET

tv
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Re: lens value: a workable definition (dollar per photograph)?

[Dan Scott]

Sounds silly to me.

It looks to me as though  you are failing to include how important that 20%
difference might be to the individual doing the valuation. For example, 80%
of my minimum daily oxygen intake, regardless of how cheaply supplied, is
not enough. I'm willing to fork over whatever it would take to get the 20%
increase. Some things can't be undervalued by overly simplistic math--what
those things are are different for different people.

Lens value for me is determined by how much I want it -- which depends on
a) how much I am willing to give up for it
b) how hard it would be for me to part with it once I have it (which is
heavily dependent on how easily it is reacquired (see "a"))


Dan Scott
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Paul wrote:

>By conventional thinking, a lens that is 80 percent as good as another at
>50 percent of the price is a better value. I propose an alternative
>definition of value: cost per photograph taken. By this definition, the
>cheapest lens nearly always must win.
>
>Say I'm choosing a 400mm telephoto lens from three candidates. One costs
>$250; the second, $400, the third $2000. On a scale of 1 to 10, the $250
>lens rates a 5 ($50 per point), the $400 lens, a 9 ($44.44 per point), the
>$2000 lens, a 10 ($200 per point). Logic, common sense, and greed would
>suggest that I go for the $400 lens.
>
>But I'll probably use a 400mm lens for maybe 15 shots a year. At that rate,
>the cost per photo will be astronomical at any price, and perhaps I should
>settle for a $200 specimen. Or a teleconverter, which would spare me the
>need to buy yet another protective filter and carry yet another big lens.
>
>It seems unfair that frequency of use must dictate the quality that it is
>prudent to buy, but I can't escape the math.
>
>It would certainly seem that a well-built lens is an extravagance for
>someone who will probably not see rugged use. So a lens that has a
>reputation for being optically excellent but mechanically mediocre would be
>a good candidate for the infrequent user.
>
>Comments?
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RE: MX hot-shoe and X-sync

[Paris, Leonard]

It will sync at all shutter speeds, if you use FP class flash bulbs.  That's
what FP sync is for.

Len
---

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 10:23 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: MX hot-shoe and X-sync


Hey guys.  I noticed a lot of MX's are advertised on eBay with
non-funtioning
X-syncs and hot-shoes.  My MX suffers the same problem although the FP sync
will fire the flash.
Is this a common problem for MX's?  Is it repairable?  what shutter speeds
does FP sync at?

Thanks as always
Christian
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RE: MZ-S and AF360FGZ musings

[Paris, Leonard]

The AF500FTZ gives me those results on my PZ-1p.  Makes shooting family get
togethers a breeze.

Len
---

-Original Message-
From: Bill Owens [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 10:18 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: MZ-S and AF360FGZ musings


At a New Year's eve get together I mounted the AF360 on the MZ-S and used
the system as a glorified P&S.  The results were astounding.  ALL of the
exposures were dead on, there was not a trace of redeye.  As a matter of
fact, it was difficult to tell that flash was even used on the majority of
the shots.

Bill, KG4LOV
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: Newly skinned LXs.

[tom]

"Matamoros, Cesar A." wrote:
> > tv said:
> >
> > These will look fantastic with your leopard-print pants.
> >
> > tv
> > -
>  Tom,
> 
> I have been meaning to thank you for those pants :-)
> 

Well, I thought they could use a good home after I went to the zebra
stripe motif. 


tv
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RE: [Fwd: Re: Question for seller -- Item #1316793311]

[Bmacrae]

Kent, 

That has to be it. It must be that all of the longer lenses have that design? 

In my original post I was referencing the auction page but the bottom photo never 
loaded. So, I looked at it after Shel's post and noticed the bottom pic (this time the 
page loaded instanteously). Sure enough, "PENTAX SMC." That's no screw mount lens. 
Plus it's identical to the lens on Boz's site...

Brendan
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LX located

[Collin Brendemuehl]

At my fequent lunch-stop, www.mpex.com,
there's a Pentax LX and Winder.  Body could
definitely use a cleaning.  A bit dusty,
and some corrosion on the shoe contacts (FA-1).
Appears to be a bit of bumper wear as well.

Winder is in nice shape.

They also still have an A* 300/4 in case, and
a KX with a dead meter.

Collin
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Re: MZ-S and AF360FGZ musings

[Mark Erickson]

I had similar success with my MZ-S and AF-280T flash at my family's 
Christmas gathering.  I did a lot of bounce flash off of the ceiling and the 
results were terrific!  An off-camera mount and contrast control would 
probably yield even better results

Happy New Year, everyone! 

 --Mark 


 --- Bill Wrote -- 

At a New Year's eve get together I mounted the AF360 on the MZ-S and used
the system as a glorified P&S.  The results were astounding.  ALL of the
exposures were dead on, there was not a trace of redeye.  As a matter of
fact, it was difficult to tell that flash was even used on the majority of
the shots. 

Bill, KG4LOV
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
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RE: Newly skinned LXs.

[Matamoros, Cesar A.]

> tom [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> 
> "Matamoros, Cesar A." wrote:
> > 
> > Imagine my surprise on finding two new sets for the LX 'under
> the
> > tree.'  I took my original and second LX and used the White Cobra and
> Grey
> > Sea Snake skins.  Don't worry Shel, your LX is still in its original
> form -
> > but with the FA-2 currently on it.  This balances out my cameras and
> gives
> > me 2 'normal' and 2 re-skinned LXs.
> 
> These will look fantastic with your leopard-print pants.
> 
> tv
> -
 Tom,

I have been meaning to thank you for those pants :-)

Thanks,

César Matamoros II
Panama City, Florida
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RE: Resolution (New Year's, that is...)

[Matamoros, Cesar A.]

Only in the sense that I want to get all my photos that are loose into
albums.  I believe that I have everything up to 1999 in albums.  It seems
like a never-ending task, but I will just take it one roll at a time.

I promise not to let people know how the project is coming along.

Hoping to have it all done by June,

César Matamoros II
Panama City, Florida


> -Original Message-
> From: Stephen Moore [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 9:41 AM
> To:   Pentax List
> Subject:  Resolution (New Year's, that is...)
> 
> Anybody made any photographical ones?
> 
> My main one was to shoot at least one frame a day,
> but I've already broken it.  :-)
> 
> 
> Happy 2002 to All!
> 
> Stephen Moore
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Re: MX hot-shoe and X-sync

[Johan Schoone]

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Hey guys.  I noticed a lot of MX's are advertised on eBay with non-funtioning
> X-syncs and hot-shoes.  My MX suffers the same problem although the FP sync will 
>fire the flash.
> Is this a common problem for MX's?  Is it repairable?  what shutter speeds does FP 
>sync at?

My guess is that the FP socket is used in combination with flash bulbs.
Bulbs need some time to ignite and burn quite long, compared to the
duration of an electronic flash.

That would mean that you could use any shutter speed with flash (bulbs only).
-- 
http://members.chello.nl/~j.schoone\\|//
Registered Linux user #78364 - The Linux Counter - http://counter.li.org
Assume nothing, expect anything.
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Re: Web Page Development

[Bmacrae]

Tom...

I'm a newbie to coding so my opinion is well, whatever...BUT, I downloaded a trial 
version of HomeSite 4.5 and I had a page mostly complete after a few hours (I also 
took some time to go through a couple of the HELP tutorials). I had never used a HTML 
editor before. The only code I knew was "http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .

RE: Re: Question for seller -- Item #1316793311]

[Kent Gittings]

That's the point it is not a screw mount version or it would say Takumar on
it. There is no variance on this point.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Bob Blakely
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 12:15 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Re: Question for seller -- Item #1316793311]


Often this means the item is a "T" mount. I have two of these. Strictly
speaking, it is a screw mount to which various adapters, K mount included,
can be attached. No provision is made for any control of any kind, i.e. no
diaphragm control. This mount is somewhat common on telescopes designed to
also be used on cameras.

However, this is not the case here. The lens is Pentax screw mount and she
has a K mount adapter for it.

Regards,
Bob...

From: "Joseph Tainter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> I queried the seller of the 1000 mm. SMC lens on ebay. Does anyone
> understand her answer? The lens mount is threaded but it is not screw
> mount?
>
> From: Donna McArthur <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> Hi Joe,
> No, this lens is not a screw mount by design.  The end tube has threads,
> which accept adapters which can be either screw mount or k mount, or
> others.  The end of the threaded tube, is approx. 2 1/2" in diameter.
> We
> just happen to have the k mount adapter for this unit.  It is truly an
> impressive   piece of equipment.
> Thanks for your interest,
> Donna
>
> On Tue, 01 Jan 2002 15:01:23 PST [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> > Hi. Can I clarify that this is a screw-mount lens with a k-mount
> > adapter?
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MZ-S: a couple of tips

[Pat White]

Recently, someone complained that it was inconvenient to set the mirror
pre-lock on the MZ-S.  Unless you use the self-timer frequently, you can
select the pre-lock and forget it.  If you have the BG-10 grip, you can use
the IR remote, which is far more convenient anyway, and it only costs $25 Cdn.
The remote 'e' is so small it fits in the pocket on the MZ series neckstrap
(the hotshoe cover and eyepiece blind can both fit in the other pocket).  This
also means you don't need to buy and carry an electronic cable release, as the
remote is actually handier.

Pop Photo thought the "hold" switch was useless, but it could be very handy
when handing the camera to someone to take a picture of, for example, you and
a friend.  When doing this, you should make sure that AF Single is selected,
as a helpful bystander won't notice whether you and your friend are in focus
or not (if AF-C is selected), and your one-time special shot could be way out
of focus (happened to me).  Hope this isn't too obvious, but it might help
someone.

Also, last month, while using studio flash cordlessly (using the MZ-S's
built-in flash to trigger the studio flash), I picked up the stereo remote to
turn down the music and found it triggered the studio flash (Yamaha stereo,
Bowens flash w/Bowens IR trigger).  Could be handy for cordless light
readings.

Pat White
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Re: Hi everybody

[Marcello Anselmi Tamburini]

Hi,

> What zoom is it?
> To use program modes, the aperture ring on the lens should be in "A" 
> position.
> 

I know it, but this zoom is damnadged and do not transmit the 'A' value to
camera.

> I don't use P modes at all. My camera is always in M or A (aperture
> priority).

I too. But this is a good method for my wife! I alaways use Av or manual
exposure (with Minolta Autometer IIIF)

Bye

-- 
Marcello Anselmi Tamburini

Sent through GMX FreeMail - http://www.gmx.net
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Re: My eBay Pentax garage sale

[C or B Waters]

- Original Message -
From: "Kent Gittings" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> Maybe just indicating you are selling something and giving us your eBay ID
> so we can see what you are listing would be enough.
> Kent Gittings

Well, if you are going to do that, I prefer a link so I don't have to go
hunting for the stuff

IMONSHO, It is a courtesy to offer your gear to the list first.  I purchased
a camera from a list member that way.  I feel safer buying from
list-members.  There's a sense of reputation here.
 I would be disappointed if a friend of mine (youse guys are my friends,
right?:) put something on auction that he knew I wanted and then sent me the
link hoping I'd bid on it. There's no reason to sell anything to "us" for
less than you think is fair.  If you have the time, offer your items here.
Post a price that you'd be happy to sell for.  If you don't get any takers,
go somewhere else.
No problem.

Cory Waters
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SNOW!

[C or B Waters]

There's snow on the ground here in Atlanta!
  Like the folks in some recent threads, we only get to see the white stuff
once in a while.  Being from a colder climate (where they have seen about 8
FEET of snow so far) I am always happy to see the snow we do get.  It's
always gone in a day or two (unlike the endless winters of Northern
Michigan).

Cory Waters
Loading the camera and digging out the cable release...
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Re: Pentax New Year's Predictions?

[Pål Audun Jensen]

Robert wrote:


>Does anyone have any Pentax New Year's Predictions?


I don't have any predictions as such. Its currently very quite on the rumor 
front. The reason, I suspect, is that there has been a change in policy at 
Pentax in conjunction with their restructuring program. Whereas they before 
were ultra quiet, and all leakages were just that - leakages through 
unofficial channels, they now leak out deliberately at the top showing 
their intentions. Eg. information that they will make a digital slr in due 
course; more Limited lenses; make a camera the owners would like to take to 
their graves; LX with AF etc.
The latter cases are certainly an official reply to the long lasting 
"Flagship" rumor.
We should keep in mind that 2002 is the 50th anniversary of the Asahiflex. 
It is important for Pentax and the whole Japanese camera industry being the 
first Japanese slr. I'm certain Pentax will commemorate this in one way 
another. Hopefully with a camera that you'll want to take to your grave 
that just might be an LX with AF.

Pål
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Re: PUG comments

[William Robb]

- Original Message -
From: "Daniel J. Matyola"
Subject: Re: PUG comments


> I acually didn't intend my post as a request, but I always
welcome
> comments on my efforts.
>
> I was writing because a new member asked if we had a gallery,
and I
> thought the response was that we had a gallery, but not a
critiqued one,
> which is true.  I didn't see any directions in the pug pages
for
> requesting comments, so I posted a general question about the
procedure.

H, Something I should have thought of.
Perhaps Adelheid could be coaxed into adding something to the
instruction page (not that anyone ever seemed to read it)
regarding requests for comments on the PDML.
William Robb
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RE: really ot

[Kent Gittings]

MS Excel or Lotus 123 usually.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of HARRY BAUGHMAN
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 6:43 PM
To: pentax
Subject: realy ot


since every one on the list has a computer i would like to ask a question.
what is a good program to create a column and line type chart?
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RE: My eBay Pentax garage sale

[Kent Gittings]

If he offered them here first we wouldn't be missing them either and it
would just be a transaction between friends. As it is it is sort of a case
where he is either using the knowledgeable PDML members to drive the price
up for non-PDML auction buyers or using the non-members to drive the price
up to us his supposed friends.
Here is an extreme but true example. The current Sports Car Club of America
has about 50K members. In the late 1940's when it was started as a club to
promote the ownership and sport of competing with real sports cars they had
a rule that seems a little snobby today. To wit the membership rule was that
if you owned a sports car and decided to sell it, if you didn't offer it to
the club members first it was grounds to have your membership revoked. And
they actually did things like that.
I seem to remember that a few years ago we adopted some rule where you had
to put the words "for sale" in the subject line so that if people wanted to
filter those messages out they could. Did we drop that rule or something?
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Frits J. Wüthrich
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 6:41 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: My eBay Pentax garage sale


I fail to see what the problem is to promote ones auctions on PDML. At least
it gives the PDML members awareness of the items that otherwise might have
been missed.

Frits Wüthrich


frank theriault wrote:
> I really don't see what the big deal (no pun intended) is.  I
> tend to agree with
> the spirit of your post, Kent, but if someone wants to give is a
> list of their
> current eBay auctions, I would guess that Fridays is as good a
> day as any.  If
> there's anything of interest, I may look at the auction, but
> probably won't bid,
> since there aren't very many real bargains on eBay these days anyway.
>
> I have to admit that I would hold someone who offers items to
> list members only
> at a reasonable price in higher regard than someone who simply
> lumps us all in
> with eBayers at large - you know Pentaxian community and all -
> but I certainly
> don't think of such actions as sanctionable, and certainly not
> worth banishment.
>
> With up to 200 and sometimes more postings per day, I can easily
> delete a few on
> Fridays that don't pique my interest for whatever reason.
>
> My two cents worth...
>
> regards, and Happy New Years to all,
> frank
>
> Kent Gittings wrote:
>
> > I hate to say it but I think we should use the same rules for
> posting things
> > for sale here that we've gone to on the Minolta users list.
> That is the only
> > acceptable posting of a for sale item is BEFORE you list it on
> some auction
> > site. If you are going to be a member of a group then there is
> no reason for
> > you to be allowed to be a member of that group if you are not
> going to give
> > the group members first crack at something. This is a case of
> schilling your
> > own items to your friends as far as I'm concerned. Sort of like the case
> > where you and your next door neighbor both collect Steuben glass and he
> > comes over and says "listen I just put a couple of pieces from
> my collection
> > I know that you liked down at Fred's Auction house. So why
> don't you come
> > down and bid on them if you are interested."
> > I thought we forbade this kind of thing after discussing it
> last year or so.
> > This is by far the most cluttered list I belong to. Yes I sell things on
> > eBay also. However I always post any Pentax items before I list
> them in case
> > anybody wants them. On the Minolta list you get one warning and
> then you get
> > permanently kicked off. I don't mind somebody finding a listing for some
> > rare piece of Pentax gear that THEY AREN'T SELLING THEMSELVES! Otherwise
> > they are just conning us into bidding their items up as far as I am
> > concerned.
> > Kent Gittings
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Re: lens value: a workable definition (dollar per photograph)?

[Pål Audun Jensen]

Cory wrote:


>How much is a lens worth if it's the one you needed to get the shot you
>want?  Is Quality-per-use to be discounted?  If each time you use the lens
>you are disappointed with its results, the lens may have a negative worth.
>OTOH, I would agree that it makes more sense for most of us to buy the
>mid-range unit.  No real need to spend ALL the money on lenses that'll see
>limited use.  Use some of that money to buy more gear and maximize it's
>potential! :)



Well, I for one have never regretted buying to good and expensive lenses. 
I'm convinced its cheaper in the long run. My oldest lens, the Pentax 
18/3.5, I bought new in 1978. It was very expensive but I still use it and 
probably will in the next 20 years as well. Whats more, if I choose to sell 
it I'll probably get more than I gave for it back then.
I have similar experiences with other great lenses. The A* 135/1.8 I sold 
for more than I gave for it. About  four times as much in  fact!
I fully expect the Limited lenses to be a good investment as well. People 
will still want them in years to come.

Pål
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Re: Hi everybody

[Sas Gabor]

Hi,

On 2 Jan 2002 at 15:20, Marcello Anselmi Tamburini wrote:
> Yes: because of my zoom, I can't use programs: 

What zoom is it?
To use program modes, the aperture ring on the lens should be in "A" 
position.

>I read in Internet
> there are three types of programs: can you decribe me rapidly?

There is the general use normal program, a sports program for fast shutter 
speeds and a landscape program for large depth of field.

I don't use P modes at all. My camera is always in M or A (aperture priority).


Gabor
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Re: 928 questions

[William Robb]

- Original Message -
From: "Sas Gabor"
Subject: Re: 928 questions


> Hi,
>
> On 30 Dec 2001 at 1:07, Tom Rittenhouse wrote:
> > The small flower icon indicates 'macro' mode.
>
> OK, but how to activate it and what does it do?

I don't know that camera specifically, but generally with the
wee cameras, you depress the mode button repeatedly until the
icon you want is on. The macro mode switches the lens into a
close focus mode, but limits far focus. In macro, you probably
get something like .5m to 2m in focus.
William Robb
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Re: Hi everybody

[Sas Gabor]

Hi,

On 2 Jan 2002 at 15:22, Marcello Anselmi Tamburini wrote:
> Are you saing the "M" button that is also used to illuminate the top
> display?
> Is not very intuitive!!!

But works! ;-)


Gabor
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